Bmw
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2008 EVO X-POSED
Mar 082008
When we got our 08 STI, we went over the whole car and pointed out all the differences, and made comments about the changes. Now that our EVO is in our hands, it gets a turn under the microscope. PERRIN as a company was a little unsure of what to do about the EVO old and new. There isn’t many of them compared to STI’s and the customer base is very different that the Subaru guys. There were already some established companies making parts for them out there, and while we were one of the first people to our EVO 8 a long time ago, our brand name didn’t really stick with the EVO guys. The EVO was on the chopping block ready to be diced and cooked, then a long time customer of ours stopped by with his new X. From that day on, things changed! The car looked sweet, but not too “ricer boy”, gone was the boring interior, and other things that plagued the older EVO. Not to mention our customer let me take it for drive, which was pretty nice. My initial impressions were, Its not slow, Steering is sweet, seats are sweet…. .maybe we need to rethink the EVO?? Also in the back of our mind was the fact the Ralliart EVO is coming out soon, which will bring the EVO to many customers not able to spend $35K.
BODY
First off the obvious, the body. I love the looks of the new EVO. In the pics and articles I saw, I really liked the nose, but the rear looked really big. Much bigger than the older car, or WRX/STI. But in person, both cars sitting next to each other my mind change a bit. The front looks way more aggressive than the older EVO, the flares the side skirts, and everything from the front to the middle of the car is really making me want to buy this car. But whats with this useless Toe hook port, am I missing something??
yup, nothing behind here???
Now onto the rear. It is way bigger/taller than the previous EVO, but its not that bad. The black lower part of the bumper really breaks it up. The wing on the car we saw was the taller wing like the good old Carbon fiber wing of the past. Many guys explain their dislike for the newer “Cheaper” Wing, but I can see beyond the missing carbon. Mitsu was smart in ditching carbon for plastic in that it can save
costs in many ways. Not only cost to build, but to replace when someone gets in a wreck. I like the 2 tone nature of it along with the additional diffuser at the top. The shape of the wing is that of a true race car, with the center foil being at an agle to catch the wing coming off the roof. Like the APR wing used on so many import race cars. (Not import “racer” cars but r eal race cars).
Very cool detail on the X’s wing
One thing I liked about the body that is very similar to the STI, is the side vents. These vents really and some flavor to the rather plain side panel. Its not really that plain but compared to the STI with the over exaggerated flairs it needed something. Again like the STI these vents are functional. They let built up pressured in the engine bay have another place to go.
Mitsubishi very elegantly did away with the monster vent in the hood, and added smaller vents. The front 2 vents are just like the older car where they help get rid of the heat and air coming through the radiator.
The new vent Mitsubishi added was the center scoop toward the rear of the hood. The older vent in the from the EVO 8 and 9 was not only for the radiator, but to help get rid of some of the heat coming off the turbo. On the X, Mitsu installed a scoop to blow cool fresh air over the turbo that was now mounted at the rear of the motor, not the front. More on this scoop and its functionality, later.
The body, under the car, has some other cool things I really like. Starting at the front of the car the first thing is something I have seen on Porsches. The front brake vent/scoop mounted on the control arm. Mitsu was very smart in how this was adapted to the body and chassis. The lower “skid plate” has channels molded into it to direct air flow right to these scoops. The scoops, simply blow air over the rotors. Simple, effective, and clean!
Working our way back to the rear of the car, I noticed another really cool thing. The EVO has a built in tranny cooler! Again it uses the air already traveling under the car and scoops it up and directs it over the tranny and center diff housing. Again, simple, cool and effective!
In the middle of the car is another small thing to help with wind turbulence under the car. These little flappers are probably there for 2 reasons; one is for keeping road grime off the suspension components and two, for deflecting wing over the suspension components. This helps reduce wind drag and cut down on road noise. This is a common thing found on many Euro cars, first time I have seen it on a car made in Japan.
The rear of the EVO has a few very subtle vents. Its these really small details that make me like the EVO more and more. Next to the license plates are some smaller sized vents that let some of the pressure escape around the muffler area and out the back. When traveling at a high rate of speed I am sure these vents help with the back bumper buffeting around and help get rid of some lift.
One small detail people might miss about the new chassis is where Mitsubishi strengthened it up. EVO of the past had very bad crash test ratings and this showed in the insurance rates for the EVO and how easy they were to total. For those who had a sunroof, and stiff suspension installed on their EVO, they may have noticed the creases that started to appear. I couldn’t believe this until it started happening on our shop 8. Each side of the car had areas where the body started to buckle! This is not good. Mitsubishi helped this potential problem on the X with some really slick ribs in the roofline. These look really cool on the car, and to the passer-by they are hardily noticeable. But they are pronounced enough that a “Car Guy or Gal” would see this and know something is up!
No more issues with the roof caving in
While the new chassis design and bracing the X has makes for a better overall platform, it does have a downfall, weight. The new X weighs about 300lbs more than the old EVO, this means its got some extra work to do to be as fast. It just means it has to have more power.
Last but not least is one thing I really don’t like about the outside. The Exhaust tips! They are not even straight! They are crooked, and just do not fit the back of the car. These have to go! Oh ya, and the butt is too plain, it needs something to break it up. How about a sticker, a PERRIN sticker!
WHEELS
This is an easy category. They are a perfect wheel for the in stock from . They are 18”x8.5” so they can support a 265 pretty easily, and still look stock. But they are perfect in other ways, that make them “not so cool” that you don’t want to replace them. We ha ve fit some 275 wide tires on our EVO with a 9.5” wide wheel, and it was perfect! Our JIC magic wheels are on the way!
ENGINE
Just like the body changed drastically so did the engine. The STI also made a huge change this year, but the engine didn’t re ally change much. For Mitsubishi, the new engine was long over due. Its not that the 4g63 was a bad engine, but come on, Iron?? Are we living in the 60’s? Anyway I love the new engine. Who cares if some of the things are weaker, or valves are smaller or ports are smaller. These are small details and to 90% of the customers looking at modding this car it will have ZERO effect on the HP they make. Aluminum blocks are what all modern engine are made from, and plenty of aluminum blocks make 700WHP with no issues. So, to those naysayer’s out there about the new engine, get back in your Talon and shut it! Ahhhh, that felt good. So back to the new 411B motor. A few tuners have already taken this apart and shown you its guts, and while this is cool, its not something we plan on doing for a long time. Tuning the stock engine with stock internals is important to see how far this engine can go before things go wrong.
The new engine for those who don’t know is an all aluminum engine with forged connecting rods and crank. Pistons are a high q uality Mahle pistons which should hold big power levels and like the 8/9, these will not be a weak link to increasing power. Mivec is also a big part of this engine. Its big competitor has displacement as an advantage to the EVO, and the MIVEC is a big part of how it is just as responsive as the bigger engine. The wizardry behind the Cams make the turbo spool quicker and keep emissions good and clean.
Pulling off the plastic engine cover, we fine a lot of similar but different things. The fuel rails are the first things that caught my eye as this looked to be the same part as the previous car. Long and flat, these are going to be a restriction for the big power guys.
Also right below the flat fuel rail is a brand new part. MAP sensor, does Mitsu know what these are used for? I sure hope so as this is a good sign that X’s ECU has a much better/smarter boost control system. On the old car the ECU would cut fuel based on MAF readings and RPM. On this car it for sure is based off of a boost reading of about 26psi. With good engine management on the way, this is a good sign we have a lot of freedom when playing with boost.
Gone are the belt driven cam gears in place of the newer high tech timing chain. The chain method provides a much longer service interval and nearly failure free operation. The valves are now pushed down by a cam and bucket, not a rocker arm. Less parts to add cost, less parts to fail. Variable cam timing is on both the Intake and Exhaust cam, not just the intake cam like the 9.
While we are still on the head, another thing Mitus improved on was the coil on plug coils. The older EVO used 2 coils and a wasted spark setup. This means that the coils would fire 2 times per cycle instead of only once. The new coil on plug setup is great as longer coil charge times can be had, and the coils will have more time to cool down between firings which all means less potential for coils to burn out.
As we work our way down to the bottom, we come across the new pistons, and rods. Like mentioned before these are high quality forged units. But the rods are different in that they are shorter. If you look at the bore and stroke of old and new engines, you will see the older engine had a small bore and long stroke (85mmx 88mm). The new engine is a more “square” built engine in that is has a shorter stroke and bigger bore (86mmx86mm). This is a better combination for high reving engines, and sure enough the new engine revs 500RPM more than before. So do I venture to say 8000RPM could be totally doable with an ECU tune??
The block being aluminum is inherently a little weaker(still not weak in my book), but there are a few things that make up for it. The cylinders walls are a semi closed deck style. This means instead of the cylinder walls floating in the tops of the block they are captured by small supports.
Below the forged crank is a girdle. A small but very cool feature found on the X. The girdle an aluminum piece that bolts to the cranks bearing caps. This keeps the crank case flex to a minimum. So far this thing looks like its set to make some big power.
The only bad thing about the new motor is that the Dodge Caliber SRT-4 has nearly the same motor, but bigger displacement. This relationship with the SRT-4 kind of takes the mighty Mitsubishi down a level for me.
Beyond the engine are the fun things that bolt to it and make power! The turbo on the X is a different than before. But its not just a bigger turbo, but in fact it has a smaller compressor wheel than previous EVO turbos, but a bigger exhaust housing. At first this may seem like its going to loose spool and make less HP. But remember the turbo is right next to the engine so the exhaust energy helps kick the turbo into motion. So the larger 12cm (vs.10.5cm) exhaust housing makes for some great top end performance. And in our dyno graphs it shows.
As said before the turbo is located at the back of the engine, not the front. This makes for a shorter path for the exhaust to get to the back of the car. But in turn makes for replacing the turbo a little trickier. While looking at the turbo you may notice the “Chimney” on top the manifold. If you remember earlier we were talking about that new scoop in the hood, this is what its for. The scoop blows air over this “chimney” evacuating the heat off the turbo and manifold. A nice clean way to keep engine bay temps at bay. On thing to take note of is the razors placed all over this area. The heat shielding is very sharp and in very precarious places that will for sure make for some bloody knuckles. Be careful!
Finally Mitsubishi got away from drive by cable throttle body. Many are thinking this is worse! Well yes and no. In stock form It can be programmed to make the car feel sluggish, or non responsive. It also can effect overall HP in that is closes right before redline. But in the hand of tuners, Drive-by-wire throttles are a great thing. We can change the relation of the pedal to throttle, make it more responsive than if it were a cable. Also flat foot shifting, launch control, or antilag settings can be had by some tweaking.
Like all other EVO’s and not like Subarus, the intercooler is in the front, where it should be. This pro vides the best, coolest, most consistent charge temps. But for 08 The routing was totally change. With the intake and exhaust system being flipped around, the boost routing would also have to be moved. A clever and simple route for the boost tubes is up and over the radiator. This is made possible by the new redesigned front end. With that big shovel type front end, it gives them room to go over the core support.
The intake system for the turbo is just like the older EVO but kicked around and turned a bit. Now the MAF sensor is a more normal round type with a normal 0-5v sensor. The older system used a Karmen type of sensor, which is based off of frequency. These proved to be a little finicky from time to time. Attached to this is the higher quality EVO MR type aluminum BOV. Gone is the crappy plastic BOV! But what makes this whole thing strange is the BOV routing. There’s like 6ft of tubing going from the boost tube to the BOV! There are 2 obvious places to tap the BOV into, and where Mitsubishi did it, is not the obvious place.
The air box has the normal front type air scoop to get its fresh air from. But like most all other car, this sucks from a low pressure area. No ram air intake here! The filter looks like a real simple thing to install, look for a high flow filter from us to come out real soon.
Now onto the other things that keep the engine rocking, and held back! Like the older EVO there is still the 100% functional scoops mounted on the passenger side feeding the oil cooler. Another small but important feature you don’t find on the Subarus. Wha t is strange is both driver and passenger side grills have a vent, and both have exhaust vents cut into the plastic wheel liner. So why is there one on the drivers side? Is this for a future tranny cooler??
When we get to the exhaust, we can see that it’s a much straighter shot to the back of the car. Less bends, and less piping surely make this a decent exhaust. Its decent, but not great. Great would be a 3” SS exhaust and a straight through muffler. The older EV O had one cat and an 02 sensor after it. The new “cat pipe” actually had 2 cats in one piece. There is one physical cat, but 2 bricks. In between these 2 bricks is the 02 sensor. I know in the EVO world its all about getting rid of the cats. This is not legal in any state, nor something we condone. High flow cats are not restrictive, and we see this with all the testing we do. So expect to see the PERRIN “Cat pipe” with a cat in the pipe…..
The rest of the exhaust is 2.25” tubing with tons of heat shields all over it. The shields are ok, but they got to go! Along with this over shielded exhaust, is an over built 02 sensor holder. I think Mitsubishi could have knocked off $1000, or added NAV for free if they just moved the 02 sensor to the other side of the car.
The muffler section is a little strange in that it’s a center inlet design, which wouldn’t be so bad if it entered exactly in the center. After a few runs on the dyno you can see how it starts to dis-color. Another strange thing is them muffler section is connected by another flex joint. Why is the question, who knows!
After we got 600miles on the clock we dynoed the car, which really surprised us! As seen above our muffler got a little color, as did our bumper with the flames we saw!
And the video we did……………
DRIVETRAIN
The Tranny is similar but different. Its laid out very similar, but with a lot more trickery involved with making the car get around the corners. We didn’t invent the S-AWC system, so we are not going to pretend to be experts. We could just copy down what all the magazines say about it, but the truth is it works. You point, it steers, simple as that. The ECU modifies the Throttle, brakes, front/center/rear diffs and makes the car go! Its nice to know all this cool stuff is happening when going around corners, it makes me want to see what the ECU is actually doing. Oh wait, I have the Super A-Wack (S-AWC) display! This is great, while I am going mach 5 around the corners I can watch the Super A-Wack display move around and tell me whats going on. Seriously, the display is a gimmick, but its cool to see move as you corner hard.
To control the diffs, and apply different TQ to the wheels, the cars uses hydraulics. The pump and reservoir are moved to the back of the car out of the engine bay. It’s a great way to take some of the weight off the front of the car and move it to the back. Mitsu also moved the battery back there for the same reason.
While we are at back of the car, lets look at the suspension. Like the older car, lots of forged aluminum bits. There is no reason for Mitsubishi to go and change the rear suspension because it worked so well. The same basic multilink design is used, but for some reason they changed out one of the nice aluminum arms for a steel unit. Must have saved them, what, $5? But really not much different here. There are a couple added braces running from the diff mounting supports, to the subframe, and from the control arm mounts to the subframe.
The front suspension is very similar to the older car, but more boxed in around the rear mount of front lower arm. Obviously this was done to stiffen up an already rock solid mount. The good news about the front is that our PSRS looks like it will fit! The old subframe had a huge cut out for the exhaust to pass under and with Mitsu rotating the engine around, this allowed for a stiffer flatter sub frame. A small but cool detail.
All these little things make the EVO a very solid handling car. The suspension is stiffer than the STI (which is good and bad), and the steering rack ratio is a lot faster so it takes less input to make it around the corners. The rack is the one thing Subaru should have taken note on a long time ago. WTF Subaru? Oh wait, this article is about how cool the EVO is…..
Interior
The interior doesn’t have a lot to say other than, Finally! Finally the interior better fits the cost of the car. Almost every inch of the car got revamped. If we look at the old car, every piece of the X is better. Better finish, better materials, better fit, better everything. But, here comes the but, its still not up to par with the Subaru or some of the Euro cars. There are definitely things left to be desired about the interior. For me, it’s the steering wheel, and textures on the plastic controls. And where’s the telescoping wheel? The S TI has this and makes for a great seating position for us tall dudes. But I think what makes up for all the interior issues for me is the seats! Like previous EVO’s the seats are perfect! Even the little fake carbon headrest trim is kind of cool.
There is one more thing that is a step down in the controls department. The Shifter. It used to be super solid, super smooth, and nearly perfect. But now its clunky and almost hard to drive smoothly. I hope that as time passes it get better, but at this point with 800 miles on the clock it is far behind the STI in shifter quality.
Oh one more thing. The clutch. Its way different than the other cars around the shop, and almost weak feeling. Maybe Mitsu used too tight of a restirctor in the hydraulic lines. This could be a problem once we start going to the track and doing some launches. But who knows we will see!
Ok fine, one more thing. The trunk! If you get Fosgate Stereo like we did, you quickly find that the trunk is a little tight. I am sure you can cram a golf bag or dead body can fit back there, but neither of those things are items i plan on putting back there. This is an area where Mitsu cheesed out on. The carpet, the trim pieces that cover up the floor boars are pretty cheap looking. Its like they went down to the craft store and the Depot and make a floor. While we are talking about the trunk. Also the window washer is back there but located in a spot that is going to be very hard to fill. Esspecially when we put our Water injection system on the car.
Conclusion
At this point the EVO X doesn’t have the Ralliart to compare to like the WRX. It seems that when we were commenting on the ST I vs WRX, it was easy to look at the things Subaru did to distinguish the 2 cars. Hopefully Mitsubishi doesn’t have to many dis tinguishing features from the X to the Ralliart model, the more they keep it looking like the EVO X, the better. My guess for Mitsu to get the price down to the $24K range, the wing, wheels, brakes, seats and some of the aluminum suspension bits will be gone. While this does suck, it’s the only way to knock off $10K of the price.
The X is a great car, and seeing and driving one in person makes me want to get rid of our families 08 WRX and get EVO, but then the dogs won’t fit in the back. That is a perfect setup, STI and an EVO in the garage. I just have to figure out how to make that work……
If there was one thing I could change about the EVO is……………. The engine. It needs .5 more liters to be a real competitor!! J
With the acronyms the 08 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Ten has, AYC, S-AWC, S-Sport, ACD, ABS MR, 4B11, PS, DSG, MP3, ASC, GPS, TC-SST, its interesting how all these things can be scribed in one simple letter……X
Here is my attempt at combining information for our ABS DIY repair writeup in a single post: Credit: Extensive leverage from other sources; as new information comes in, I will update this post as long as it will let me. Future: Maybe someone can put a copy of this in the DIY section after it's properly reviewed for mistakes. CLASSIC ABS FAILURE SYMPTOMS: - Most of the time, the problem is the ABS module or one of the 4 wheel speed sensors (& sometimes the brake pressure sensor) - In my 2002 BMW E39 DSC, three orange (warning) cluster display lights lit, ABS, Brake, & DSC - The 3 warning lights reset when the ignition is turned off, only to repeatedly reappear within minutes of normal driving - The fault is often intermittent leading you to falsely believe you've resolved the problem (proper diagnosis is important) - Sometimes the fault only appears when the engine is hot; other times only at speeds over 40 mph
- Carsoft may erroneously show a rear speed sensor failure; but just replacing the speed sensor may make no difference.
- All the work is in correct diagnosis of the problem[/URL]; parts replacement is trivial (from 1 to six bolts in a few minutes) - Hence, this BMW E39 ABS 3-warning light DIY will concentrate on understanding and diagnosis of the problem
FALSE ALARM SANITY CHECK: If you recently drove on ice, a dynamometer, or on another very slippery surface, the car may just think the system has malfunctioned. - Driving a few miles on a regular surface should fix the problem. - Another fix is to slowly turn the steering wheel from completely left to completely right, then back again. - The warning lights will reset whenever you turn the car off (but go back on if the fault persists) BMW DESIGN PROBLEM: - The E39 ABS module was mounted too close to engine heat causing solder cracks & fried electronics - The 4 wheel sensors and wires are exposed to the elements and to shocks/vibration - The 3 steering yaw sensors seem pretty well protected from both hazards but they may need recalibration[/URL] Note: Apparently newer-model BMWs moved the ABS module further away from engine heat (need confirmation)
FLOW CHART OF RECOMMENDED ACTIONS: 0) Watch, for a few days, speedo, odometer, tripmeter, cruise control, transmission, & ABS/BRAKE/DSC light activity 1) If ABS/BRAKE/DSC constantly comes back, test the 4 wheel sensor circuits from the ABS module connector 2) If any sensor circuit shows up as bad, test that specific sensor itself at that wheel (otherwise skip to step 5) 3) If the wheel sensor still shows up as bad, first remove, clean, grease, and re-install that sensor 4) If it still tests bad, then replace the sensor ... 5) If the sensors are good, test the ABS circuit with the Carsoft or Peake tools (or just assume a bad ABS module) 6) If the Carsoft or Peake tools indicate a different sensor, test & replace that sensor (e.g., pressure, yaw, acceleration, etc.) 7) Otherwise, assume your ABS module is the culprit (some say get your ABS module rebuilt anyway as it's going to go eventually) ... 8) If your ABS module is suspected, you have only the following 5 options: - OPTION 0: You can do nothing and just not have ABS or DSC (not a good choice for anyone on this message board) - OPTION 1: You can attempt a 3-part rebuild yourself (unfortunately we don't have enough information to help you yet) - OPTION 2: You can send your module out for a rebuild (about 1/3 to 1/2 can be rebuilt but you'll have no speedo in the interim) - OPTION 3: You can buy a rebuilt module (you'll have to add approximately $100 for a VIN recode at the dealer) - OPTION 4: You can buy a brand new module (you'll again have to pay for a BMW dealership recoding to your VIN) Note: Most people don't deal with testing the other 15 items; they just opt for sending their ABS module out to be rebuilt, which isn't necessarily a bad thing because generally it is the ABS and even if it isn't, some argue it's not a bad idea to rebuild even a working ABS. READ THE SHOP MANUAL: ( http://www.bentleypublishers.com/isb...179/index.html ) - For DSC pinouts, see Volume II, page ELE-15 of ABS/DSC controle module (A65) (2 sensors in the front and 2 in the rear) - For ASC pinouts, see Volume II, page ELE-21 of ABS/ASC controle module (A52) (only 1 sensor in the front and 1 in the rear) - For ABS/ASC/DSC system operation, see Volume I, page 300-12 (it's not all that useful though) - For ABS/ASC/DSC system components, see Volume I, page 340-26 (again, not all that useful if you have this) READ BMW MANUALS: - Bosch DSC part 1[/URL], Bosch DSC part II[/URL] (kindly supplied[/URL] by Max_VQ[/URL]) READ THESE ARTICLES: - http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/ABS/Index.htm - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=600452 - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1230488 - http://cparente.wordpress.com/2008/1...o-abs-problem/ - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=363554 - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...39#post4202239 etc. UNDERSTAND DIGITAL MULTIMETER (DMM) TEST BASICS: - http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/2.html
GATHER SEAT-OF-THE-PANTS DATA: - Note exactly which warning indicators are lit (e.g., ABS & BRAKE & DSC) - Note whether cruise control is working or not (sometimes implicates the passenger-side rear sensor) - Note whether the speedometer (hence odometer & tripmeter) is working (sometimes implicates the driver-side rear sensor) - Note "free play", "dead spots", & "centering" of the steering wheel (sometimes implicates steering column sensors) - Note if normal ABS pulsation (ABS working) or skidding (ABS not working) when hard braking on sandy shoulders at 15 mph - Note if violent shudder[/URL] (ABS working) or screech (ABS not working) when firm braking on top of speed bumps at 5mph Note: It's not always just the sensor when the speedometer is also out with the 3 lights (the key is diagnosis) ACKNOWLEDGE ALL POSSIBLE (20) & MOST LIKELY (2) CULPRITS: • 1 BOSCH DC III Control Module 83 Pin (combined with the hydraulic unit in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) <==COMMON CULPRIT! • 1 Hydraulic Unit (combined with the control module in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) • Hydraulic Unit contains: 2 pre-charge solenoid valves • Hydraulic Unit contains: 2 changeover solenoid valves • Hydraulic Unit contains: 4 intake solenoid valves • Hydraulic Unit contains: 4 outlet solenoid valves • Hydraulic Unit contains: 1 return pump • 2 Front Wheel Speed Sensors (Active Hall Effect) in the steering knuckles, secured with two 4 mm allen bolts <==COMMON CULPRIT! • 2 Rear Wheel Speed Sensors (Active Hall Effect) in the rear wheel bearing carriers, secured with one 4 mm allen bolt <==COMMON CULPRIT! • 1 Hydraulic Pressure Sensor (attached to the front-brake hydraulic unit in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) <==MY PROBLEM! • 1 Steering Angle Sensor (located in the bottom of the steering column, near the flexible coupling) • 1 Rotation Rate, aka Yaw Sensor (combined with the lateral-acceleration sensor in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) • 1 Lateral Acceleration Sensor (combined with the yaw sensor in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) • 1 DSC Switch (located below the radio in the cockpit) • 1 Hand Brake Switch (located on the hand brake assembly) • 1 Brake Switch (located on the brake-pedal assembly) • 1 Pre-Charging Pump • 1 Charging Piston (750iL only) PHOTOGRAPH OF THE MOST LIKELY CULPRITS:
GATHER DESIRED TOOLS: - Print this DIY out, bring a pencil to mark down your readings, and a drink - Digital multi meter (DMM) with a diode-test capability & long, very narrow probes - About six inches of 20 AWG stiff wire (to attach to your DMM probes and to the female ABS connector) - A small piece of white or yellow tape so that you can label the positive stiff wire (to avoid confusion with the negative probe) - T20 six-point Torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6" extension for removing the ABS control module - 4mm allen wrench for removing the front wheel sensors - Torque wrench (see torque tables below) for replacing components - For rear sensors, a 10 mm socket, 8 mm socket, flat-head screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers might be required to remove trim. - 1/4-inch wide 6-inch long standard flathead screwdriver for removing ABS harness connector clip - CRC cleaner (or equivalent brake cleaner) - Staburags NBU 12/K or equivalent grease (for speed sensors and connections in the housings) GATHER OPTIONAL TOOLS: - (maybe) 10mm socket for removing air filter box (easier access for some E39 models) - Carsoft 6.5 or Peake Research or equivalent OBDII diagnostic scanner - Oscilloscope (look for millivolt square waves coming from powered sensors as the wheel turns) - Note: Carsoft 6.5 can't perform encoding, activation, or steering adjustments. - Note: Bad ABS modules often report erroneous indications of a bad RR sensor in the OBD scanner reports - Note: You must use new bolts for the ABS Control Module (according to the Bentleys) PRICE OEM PARTS: - Repair kit, control unit DSC, $1,120 + $112 (~10% tax) = $1,232 (often colloquially referred to as the "ABS control
unit") - Wheel sensors, front, $134 x 2 = $268 + $27 (~10% tax) = $295 total (some suggested EAC tuning for wheel sensors) - Wheel sensors rear, $201 x 2 = = $402 + $40 (~10% tax) = $442 total (some suggested AutoHauz for wheel sensors) - Front brake pressure sensor, $111 + 10% tax = ~$125 (measures 0-250bars of front-brake pressure, outputs 0-5 volts) - Steering angle (yaw) sensors (in the steering wheel column or under driver's seat) ~$250 each (almost never needed) - Hydro unit, DSC, $2,003 x 1 + $200 (~10% tax) = $2,013 (this "hydro unit" behind the ABS control unit is almost never at fault) Note: If you replace the ABS module, you'll also need a $100 dealership recoding to your VIN & steering angles calibrated (apparently) PRICE REBUILDING OF YOUR ABS MODULE: - Module Masters ($105) http://www.modulemaster.com/en/abs/ate_bmw_asc.php - BBA Remanufacturing (8 days, $225) http://www.bba-reman.com - Auto & Truck Electronics ($105) EBAY seller's ID ATE1234, lifetime warranty, free shipping, quick turnaround - Note: A rebuild of your ABS unit won't require VIN coding, activation, or steering angle calibration PRICE A REBUILT ABS MODULE FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE: - For a rebuilt part, most suggest oembimmerparts.com[/URL], one of our sponsors[/URL], at about $450 + $45 tax = $500 - Note: A rebuilt ABS unit from another vehicle requires a $100 dealership VIN recoding effort QUESTION: What happens if you don't code the VIN & check steering angles ... (does the car blow up?) CONSIDER FIXING IT YOURSELF (we need much more details to make this option viable): - Open up the module & look for broken solder joints which can be sucked and resoldered (take pictures) - Add point-to-point wiring where needed (we need more information to make this actionable) - Replace diodes and any other weak parts with more robust parts (again, not very useful unless we know exactly what) - Post before and after pictures so each of us can learn from the rest CHECK BMW ERROR CODES: - Locate the OBDII port, by law, in the cockpit, within 3 feet of the driver (above the driver's left knee in American BMWs) - Hook up Carsoft[/URL] or Peake diagnostic tools[/URL] to the OBDII port to determine any error codes - Cross reference Carsoft error codes[/URL] with the list of Bosch 5.7 error codes listed bellow (kindly supplied by Max_VQ[/URL]) Note: Some say this check is of dubious value because a bad ABS module may show up as a bad rear sensor[/URL]; always test the sensor itself! BMW ABS/ASC Bosch[/URL] 5.7 Table of error codes:[/URL] 5 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor 6 Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor 7 Front Left Wheel Speed Sensor 14 Solenoid Valve Relay (check fuses 17 & 33) 15 Pressure Sensor/Pump Error 21 Module Memory Failure - ABS/ASC module is faulty 23 Incorrect Coding - ABS/ASC module is faulty 24 Wrong Impulse 30 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor 31 Open Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor 32 Open Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor 33 Open Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor 50 Right Front Outlet Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty 51 Left Rear Outlet Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty 54 Left Front Inlet Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty 55 ASC Intake Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty 58 Gear Box Control Unit (CAN bus error) 59 DMER1 (CAN bus error) 61 Steering Angle Sensor Identification 66 Speed Sensor Voltage Supply
67 Intermittent Interference 75 Engine Speed Fault from DME 81 Pressure Sensor 82 Open Yaw Rate Sensor 86 ASC Cut-off Valve Rear Axle 88 Precharge Pump 89 Low Voltage 90 Temporary System Deactivation 94 DDE Fault/Yaw rate sensor 97 Steering Angle Sensor 10 Brake Light Switch 108 SN Control 112 Open CAN to Instrument Cluster 114 Pressure Sensor Offset 117 Brake Light Switch Failure 118 DME Status-Internal Error REMOVE ABS-MODULE CONNECTOR: - Facing the engine, slide the plastic retaining clip to the right with a 1/4 inch flathead screwdriver. - It is a plastic retaining clip, so do be careful not to break it; it slides over about 1 1/4 inches or so. - Once the clip is fully to the right, lift the electrical connector up - Notice the female (blue) connector with 42 holes (and very tiny lettering) - DO NOT STICK YOUR TEST LEAD INTO THE SQUARE HOLES! (Only put test leads into the larger rectangular holes next to the square holes.)
NOTE ABS-MODULE PINOUT: (notice the test lead holes) - Each wheel sensor circuit has a set of two wires in the ABS connector (pinout[/URL] kindly supplied by 540iman[/URL]) - ABS-connector pins 13,29 = Left rear wheel sensor (also affects speedometer & odometer & tripmeter) - ABS-connector pins 30,31 = Right rear wheel sensor (also affects cruise control) - ABS-connector pins 28,12 = Left front wheel sensor (some say it also acts as a steering angle sensor[/URL]) - ABS-connector pins 15,16 = Right front wheel sensor (tells gearbox electronics how fast you're going[/URL]) Note: These pinouts are in the same order of the diode action of each sensor (do not reverse these numbers) Note: Don't confuse with the brake pad wear sensor, which is only located on the front left & rear right wheel & which uses a black connector. Note: ASC cars have only two sensors, one on the front right and the other on the rear left wheel. UNDERSTAND WHEEL SPEED SENSORS: Note: The wheel speed sensors are two-wire hall effect transducers which send a digital square wave signal with a low of .75 volts and a high of 2.5 volts to the DSC control unit. Each sensor receives a well-regulated 8 volt power supply from the control module through one wire. The ground path for the sensor is through the second wire back to the control module. The signal is generated by a pulse wheel affecting the voltage flow through the hall element in the sensor. The pulse wheel is integrated into the wheel bearing assembly, behind the seal. This protects the trigger wheel from foreign substances which may affect the wheel speed signal.
TEST WHEEL SENSOR CIRCUIT FROM THE ABS CONNECTOR (also checks wiring circuit): OPTIONAL: Jack car up (so that all four wheels can be spun to test voltage & resistance fluctuations of the hall-effect sensors) - Turn the car off and remove the key from the ignition. - TEST 1: Switch the DMM into the diode test position - Wrap a stiff 20AWG wire onto the ends of your DMM probe for sticking into ABS-connector pins - Label the positive 20AWG wire with white tape so that you won't get confused as you switch back and forth - Stick the ends of the wire into the appropriate female holes of the ABS connector (13-29, 30-31, 28-12, 15-16) - In one direction, you should see 1.7 to 1.8 volts (note the pinouts mentioned are in order, positive to negative) - In the other direction, you should see OL or some other infinite reading (open circuit) - TEST 2: Switch the DMM into resistance checking mode (optional) - You should see around 3.3 Mega ohms in one direction & approximately twice that in the other direction (but some say more[/URL]) - TEST 3: If desired spin the wheel at about 1 revolution per second[/URL], by hand (the resistance should fluctuate as the wheel spins[/URL]) - TEST 4: Switch the DMM into millivolt mode (optional) & again spin the tire & wheel assembly by hand (test-lead polarity won't matter) - You should read between 1 and 5 mV when you spin the hub[/URL] (no voltage implicate the sensor or circuit) - OPTIONAL TESTS BELOW REQUIRE FLYING LEADS WITH THE IGNITION SYSTEM ABS SYSTEM CONNECTED & POWERED UP: - TEST 5: Swith the DMM into the 10v and attach flying leads to the sensors with the power on - You should see the voltage going to the sensor and the return signal[/URL] - Expect a baseline voltage of about +5 to +12 volts depending on the ABS system (does anyone know this value?) - Expect that baseline voltage to the sensor to change (by how much?) as you spin the wheels - TEST 6: Hook an oscilloscope with "flying leads" to the ABS sensors (notice that the ABS system must be powered) - You should see nice clean square waves generated as you hand spin the wheels[/URL] at about 1 revolution per second. Note: The oscilliscope can detect problems [/URL]that can't easily be found with a DMM (A scope pattern for a wheel
speed sensor should show a classic sine wave alternating current pattern that changes both in frequency and amplitude with wheel speed. As the wheel is turned faster, signal frequency and amplitude should both increase. Damaged or missing teeth on the sensor ring will show up as flat spots or gaps in the sine wave pattern. A bent axle or hub will produce an undulating pattern that changes as the strength of the sensor signal changes with every revolution. If the scope pattern produced by the sensor is flattened (diminished amplitude) or is erratic, it usually indicates a weak signal caused by an excessively wide air gap between the tip of the sensor and its ring, or a buildup of metallic debris on the end of the sensor. A weak signal can also be caused by internal resistance in the sensor or its wiring circuit, or loose or corroded wiring connectors.)
INTERPRET DIODE-TEST RESULTS: - If the DMM, in diode mode, reads infinity ("OL") in both directions, you've got a bad sensor or circuit - If the DMM, in resistance mode, reads much greater than 7Mohms, you've got a bad sensor or circuit - If all 4 sensors read OK, it's most likely the ABS control unit. - If you think you found two bad sensors, you probably messed up. - Rarely is the cause due to bad steering angle (yaw/lew) sensors - Rarely is the cause due to a bad hydro unit - The problem is almost always a wheel rotation sensor or the ABS control unit ACTUAL RESULTS ON MY 2002 E39 THIS MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND:
DOUBLECHECK WHEEL SENSORS AT THE WHEEL: Note: You can run this test w/o removing the wheel but access to the sensor connector is easier with the wheels off the E39 - If one or more sensor circuits test bad in any of the three tests above ... then ... - Locate the sensor blue connector in the rear of each front wheel well by turning the front wheels - Easiest to first locate the sensor (bolted on the wheel carrier near the hub) and trace its wire back to a black plastic hinged box housing
- Open the locked hinged plastic rectangular black box with a small flathead screwdriver - Locate the blue wheel sensor connector (next to a black brake wear sensor connector) - Pull the blue wheel sensor connector out of the box and disconnect the two sides - Re-check the sensor there with the diode function of the DMM
CHECK WHEEL SENSORS OFF THE VEHICLE: - If any sensor still checks bad, pull the sensor off the vehicle for a closer inspection - Chock wheels and jack E39 BMW and jack stand at the 4 jack pad locations - Remove 4mm allen head bolts to sensor retention screw (two retaining bolts for fronts, 1 bolt for the rears) - Pull wheel sensor out of hub assembly, straight up. - Clean with CRC electronic cleaner - Check with DMM diode-test meter as before - Grease with Staburags NBU 12/K or equivalent grease - Replace sensor back into hub assembly, snug tighten to 6 foot pounds - Replace rear wheel, tighten to 82 to 96 foot pounds Note: You might wish to swap sensors on the same axle when replacing so as to obtain further diagnostic information should an anomaly occur. Note: Here is a picture of a dirty and cleaned sensor (magnetic particle buildup[/URL])
TEST BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR (aka HYDRAULIC UNIT PRESSURE SENSOR): - This test procedure kindly suggested by Max_VQ: - Given 250 bar = 3,626 psi, and given 0-5 volts linear proportional output, 3,626 psi/ 5v = 725.2 psi/volt or 1.3 mV per psi. - With the ignition on, measure the voltage on the pressure sensor while someone is pressing hard on the brake pedal - My guess is that should create about 3,000 psi of force and should show around 4.13 volts. - At rest it should show very close to 0 volts Note: The front-brake pressure sensor provides a 0-5 volt linear voltage signal to the DSC III control module which is proportionate to how hard the driver is pressing on the brake pedal, from zero to 250 bars (3,626 psi), spanning (a) no braking, to (b) partial braking, and to (c) near-ABS-regulation state braking. This brake pressure sensor has three pins (a) power, (b) ground and (c) the 0-5 volt proportionate signal. Note: By way of comparison, the Corvette also has a brake pressure sensor to indicate how hard the brakes are being applied; it monitors pressure from 0 to 2000psi generating a corresponding signal of 0.20 volts to 4.80 volts[/URL]. LOCATION OF FRONT-BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR: • DSC III 5.3 (740i/iL and 540i) - The brake pressure sensor is located in the charge pump assembly.
• DSC III 5.3 (750iL) - The sensor is located on the charge piston unit. • DSC III 5.7 (ALL) - The sensor is located on the hydraulic unit on my 2002 E39.
TEST ROTATION RATE & LATERAL ACCELERATION SENSOR: - We do not yet have a test for this sensor; a description of operation is all we have at the moment (please suggest a test procedure so all benefit) - On Bosch DSC III (Bosch 5.7) the Rotation Rate sensor (yaw) and the Lateral Acceleration sensor have been combined into one unit located under the drivers seat under the carpet - The degree of rotation rate (yaw) transducer outputs a reference signal of 2.5 volts and a linear voltage of 0.7 to 4.3 volts - The lateral acceleration output signal should be 1.7 volts while the car is sitting still on a flat surface corresponding to 0 G side forces. - The lateral acceleration transducer outputs a linear voltage of 0.5 to 4.5 volts corresponding to a G-Force range of -1.5 to +3.5 G side forces depending on the motion of a fixed capacitor plate relative to a floating capacitor plate.
TEST STEERING ANGLE SENSOR: - We don't yet know how to test the steering-angle sensor (please advise) Note: The steering angle sensor, mounted at the bottom of the steering column near the flexible coupling, utilizes two potentiometers to determine the steering angle and the rate of steering angle change, which are are the two raw signals the CAN bus microprocessor utilizes to create the steering angle signal for broadcast over the CAN bus. The DSC III logic compares the stored plausibility of the steering angle sensor against other DSC III inputs (front wheel speeds, rotation rate and lateral acceleration sensors). STEERING ANGLE SENSOR:
REMOVE ABS MODULE: - Remove the six T20 Torx screws holding the ABS module to the hydro unit - Pull the ABS module straight out towards the passenger side headlight. - Cover the hydro unit with aluminum foil to protect it from the elements - You can drive the car but you won't have a speedometer or odometer - Use a portable GPS unit with a speed display as your temporary speedometer - You may not have cruise control (need to test this) - Of course, you won't have ABS either but you didn't have that anyway
HINTS TO HELP OTHERS: - Consider taking apart your ABS module and posting before rebuild and after rebuild pictures - Consider paying rebuilders the extra $10 to return ABS modules that failed[/URL] (so you can take it apart & post pictures) - Consider selling your old module to the rebuilders if you buy a new or rebuilt ABS module from another vehicle - A portable GPS unit doubles as a speedometer in the interim while your ABS module is being rebuilt REINSTALL ABS MODULE: - Note: There is a gasket attached to the new unit. - Carefully place the new module over the control actuators.
- Loosely replace the six new T20 Torx screws included with the new module. - Tighten snug tight, and then a little more to seat the gasket. - Reposition the ABS electrical connector - Press down on the ABS connector while pushing the retaining clip to the left - Reassemble the Air Filter box & MAF (if it was disassembled for Torx access). INITIALIZE ABS MODULES: - Note: This step is only necessary if you installed an ABS module that wasn't originally in the car in the first place - Take the E39 to an Indy to encode the VIN (I'm not sure what happens if you don't do this) - Take the E39 to an Indy to check and adjust the steering angle (I'm not sure why) - Some say the steering angle sensor may have to be recalibrated when you put on a remanufactured or new ABS module. TORQUE TABLE: - 4mm wheel sensor bolts (two each for the front sensors, 1 each for the rear sensors) = 6 foot pounds - Combination lateral acceleration/rotational rate sensor (under driver seat) = 6 foot pounds - DSC bolts to the hydraulic unit (new bolts only) = 26 inch pounds - Hydraulic unit to body = 6 foot pounds - Hydraulic unit mounting bracket = 6 foot pounds - Brake lines to hydraulic unit = 13 foot pounds - Wheel lug nuts = 82 to 96 foot pounds DIAGRAM OF THE 2002 E39 DSC III BOSCH 5.7 SYSTEM:
USE THIS CHART TO DETERMINE WHICH ABS SYSTEM YOU HAVE:
Mar 082008
When we got our 08 STI, we went over the whole car and pointed out all the differences, and made comments about the changes. Now that our EVO is in our hands, it gets a turn under the microscope. PERRIN as a company was a little unsure of what to do about the EVO old and new. There isn’t many of them compared to STI’s and the customer base is very different that the Subaru guys. There were already some established companies making parts for them out there, and while we were one of the first people to our EVO 8 a long time ago, our brand name didn’t really stick with the EVO guys. The EVO was on the chopping block ready to be diced and cooked, then a long time customer of ours stopped by with his new X. From that day on, things changed! The car looked sweet, but not too “ricer boy”, gone was the boring interior, and other things that plagued the older EVO. Not to mention our customer let me take it for drive, which was pretty nice. My initial impressions were, Its not slow, Steering is sweet, seats are sweet…. .maybe we need to rethink the EVO?? Also in the back of our mind was the fact the Ralliart EVO is coming out soon, which will bring the EVO to many customers not able to spend $35K.
BODY
First off the obvious, the body. I love the looks of the new EVO. In the pics and articles I saw, I really liked the nose, but the rear looked really big. Much bigger than the older car, or WRX/STI. But in person, both cars sitting next to each other my mind change a bit. The front looks way more aggressive than the older EVO, the flares the side skirts, and everything from the front to the middle of the car is really making me want to buy this car. But whats with this useless Toe hook port, am I missing something??
yup, nothing behind here???
Now onto the rear. It is way bigger/taller than the previous EVO, but its not that bad. The black lower part of the bumper really breaks it up. The wing on the car we saw was the taller wing like the good old Carbon fiber wing of the past. Many guys explain their dislike for the newer “Cheaper” Wing, but I can see beyond the missing carbon. Mitsu was smart in ditching carbon for plastic in that it can save
costs in many ways. Not only cost to build, but to replace when someone gets in a wreck. I like the 2 tone nature of it along with the additional diffuser at the top. The shape of the wing is that of a true race car, with the center foil being at an agle to catch the wing coming off the roof. Like the APR wing used on so many import race cars. (Not import “racer” cars but r eal race cars).
Very cool detail on the X’s wing
One thing I liked about the body that is very similar to the STI, is the side vents. These vents really and some flavor to the rather plain side panel. Its not really that plain but compared to the STI with the over exaggerated flairs it needed something. Again like the STI these vents are functional. They let built up pressured in the engine bay have another place to go.
Mitsubishi very elegantly did away with the monster vent in the hood, and added smaller vents. The front 2 vents are just like the older car where they help get rid of the heat and air coming through the radiator.
The new vent Mitsubishi added was the center scoop toward the rear of the hood. The older vent in the from the EVO 8 and 9 was not only for the radiator, but to help get rid of some of the heat coming off the turbo. On the X, Mitsu installed a scoop to blow cool fresh air over the turbo that was now mounted at the rear of the motor, not the front. More on this scoop and its functionality, later.
The body, under the car, has some other cool things I really like. Starting at the front of the car the first thing is something I have seen on Porsches. The front brake vent/scoop mounted on the control arm. Mitsu was very smart in how this was adapted to the body and chassis. The lower “skid plate” has channels molded into it to direct air flow right to these scoops. The scoops, simply blow air over the rotors. Simple, effective, and clean!
Working our way back to the rear of the car, I noticed another really cool thing. The EVO has a built in tranny cooler! Again it uses the air already traveling under the car and scoops it up and directs it over the tranny and center diff housing. Again, simple, cool and effective!
In the middle of the car is another small thing to help with wind turbulence under the car. These little flappers are probably there for 2 reasons; one is for keeping road grime off the suspension components and two, for deflecting wing over the suspension components. This helps reduce wind drag and cut down on road noise. This is a common thing found on many Euro cars, first time I have seen it on a car made in Japan.
The rear of the EVO has a few very subtle vents. Its these really small details that make me like the EVO more and more. Next to the license plates are some smaller sized vents that let some of the pressure escape around the muffler area and out the back. When traveling at a high rate of speed I am sure these vents help with the back bumper buffeting around and help get rid of some lift.
One small detail people might miss about the new chassis is where Mitsubishi strengthened it up. EVO of the past had very bad crash test ratings and this showed in the insurance rates for the EVO and how easy they were to total. For those who had a sunroof, and stiff suspension installed on their EVO, they may have noticed the creases that started to appear. I couldn’t believe this until it started happening on our shop 8. Each side of the car had areas where the body started to buckle! This is not good. Mitsubishi helped this potential problem on the X with some really slick ribs in the roofline. These look really cool on the car, and to the passer-by they are hardily noticeable. But they are pronounced enough that a “Car Guy or Gal” would see this and know something is up!
No more issues with the roof caving in
While the new chassis design and bracing the X has makes for a better overall platform, it does have a downfall, weight. The new X weighs about 300lbs more than the old EVO, this means its got some extra work to do to be as fast. It just means it has to have more power.
Last but not least is one thing I really don’t like about the outside. The Exhaust tips! They are not even straight! They are crooked, and just do not fit the back of the car. These have to go! Oh ya, and the butt is too plain, it needs something to break it up. How about a sticker, a PERRIN sticker!
WHEELS
This is an easy category. They are a perfect wheel for the in stock from . They are 18”x8.5” so they can support a 265 pretty easily, and still look stock. But they are perfect in other ways, that make them “not so cool” that you don’t want to replace them. We ha ve fit some 275 wide tires on our EVO with a 9.5” wide wheel, and it was perfect! Our JIC magic wheels are on the way!
ENGINE
Just like the body changed drastically so did the engine. The STI also made a huge change this year, but the engine didn’t re ally change much. For Mitsubishi, the new engine was long over due. Its not that the 4g63 was a bad engine, but come on, Iron?? Are we living in the 60’s? Anyway I love the new engine. Who cares if some of the things are weaker, or valves are smaller or ports are smaller. These are small details and to 90% of the customers looking at modding this car it will have ZERO effect on the HP they make. Aluminum blocks are what all modern engine are made from, and plenty of aluminum blocks make 700WHP with no issues. So, to those naysayer’s out there about the new engine, get back in your Talon and shut it! Ahhhh, that felt good. So back to the new 411B motor. A few tuners have already taken this apart and shown you its guts, and while this is cool, its not something we plan on doing for a long time. Tuning the stock engine with stock internals is important to see how far this engine can go before things go wrong.
The new engine for those who don’t know is an all aluminum engine with forged connecting rods and crank. Pistons are a high q uality Mahle pistons which should hold big power levels and like the 8/9, these will not be a weak link to increasing power. Mivec is also a big part of this engine. Its big competitor has displacement as an advantage to the EVO, and the MIVEC is a big part of how it is just as responsive as the bigger engine. The wizardry behind the Cams make the turbo spool quicker and keep emissions good and clean.
Pulling off the plastic engine cover, we fine a lot of similar but different things. The fuel rails are the first things that caught my eye as this looked to be the same part as the previous car. Long and flat, these are going to be a restriction for the big power guys.
Also right below the flat fuel rail is a brand new part. MAP sensor, does Mitsu know what these are used for? I sure hope so as this is a good sign that X’s ECU has a much better/smarter boost control system. On the old car the ECU would cut fuel based on MAF readings and RPM. On this car it for sure is based off of a boost reading of about 26psi. With good engine management on the way, this is a good sign we have a lot of freedom when playing with boost.
Gone are the belt driven cam gears in place of the newer high tech timing chain. The chain method provides a much longer service interval and nearly failure free operation. The valves are now pushed down by a cam and bucket, not a rocker arm. Less parts to add cost, less parts to fail. Variable cam timing is on both the Intake and Exhaust cam, not just the intake cam like the 9.
While we are still on the head, another thing Mitus improved on was the coil on plug coils. The older EVO used 2 coils and a wasted spark setup. This means that the coils would fire 2 times per cycle instead of only once. The new coil on plug setup is great as longer coil charge times can be had, and the coils will have more time to cool down between firings which all means less potential for coils to burn out.
As we work our way down to the bottom, we come across the new pistons, and rods. Like mentioned before these are high quality forged units. But the rods are different in that they are shorter. If you look at the bore and stroke of old and new engines, you will see the older engine had a small bore and long stroke (85mmx 88mm). The new engine is a more “square” built engine in that is has a shorter stroke and bigger bore (86mmx86mm). This is a better combination for high reving engines, and sure enough the new engine revs 500RPM more than before. So do I venture to say 8000RPM could be totally doable with an ECU tune??
The block being aluminum is inherently a little weaker(still not weak in my book), but there are a few things that make up for it. The cylinders walls are a semi closed deck style. This means instead of the cylinder walls floating in the tops of the block they are captured by small supports.
Below the forged crank is a girdle. A small but very cool feature found on the X. The girdle an aluminum piece that bolts to the cranks bearing caps. This keeps the crank case flex to a minimum. So far this thing looks like its set to make some big power.
The only bad thing about the new motor is that the Dodge Caliber SRT-4 has nearly the same motor, but bigger displacement. This relationship with the SRT-4 kind of takes the mighty Mitsubishi down a level for me.
Beyond the engine are the fun things that bolt to it and make power! The turbo on the X is a different than before. But its not just a bigger turbo, but in fact it has a smaller compressor wheel than previous EVO turbos, but a bigger exhaust housing. At first this may seem like its going to loose spool and make less HP. But remember the turbo is right next to the engine so the exhaust energy helps kick the turbo into motion. So the larger 12cm (vs.10.5cm) exhaust housing makes for some great top end performance. And in our dyno graphs it shows.
As said before the turbo is located at the back of the engine, not the front. This makes for a shorter path for the exhaust to get to the back of the car. But in turn makes for replacing the turbo a little trickier. While looking at the turbo you may notice the “Chimney” on top the manifold. If you remember earlier we were talking about that new scoop in the hood, this is what its for. The scoop blows air over this “chimney” evacuating the heat off the turbo and manifold. A nice clean way to keep engine bay temps at bay. On thing to take note of is the razors placed all over this area. The heat shielding is very sharp and in very precarious places that will for sure make for some bloody knuckles. Be careful!
Finally Mitsubishi got away from drive by cable throttle body. Many are thinking this is worse! Well yes and no. In stock form It can be programmed to make the car feel sluggish, or non responsive. It also can effect overall HP in that is closes right before redline. But in the hand of tuners, Drive-by-wire throttles are a great thing. We can change the relation of the pedal to throttle, make it more responsive than if it were a cable. Also flat foot shifting, launch control, or antilag settings can be had by some tweaking.
Like all other EVO’s and not like Subarus, the intercooler is in the front, where it should be. This pro vides the best, coolest, most consistent charge temps. But for 08 The routing was totally change. With the intake and exhaust system being flipped around, the boost routing would also have to be moved. A clever and simple route for the boost tubes is up and over the radiator. This is made possible by the new redesigned front end. With that big shovel type front end, it gives them room to go over the core support.
The intake system for the turbo is just like the older EVO but kicked around and turned a bit. Now the MAF sensor is a more normal round type with a normal 0-5v sensor. The older system used a Karmen type of sensor, which is based off of frequency. These proved to be a little finicky from time to time. Attached to this is the higher quality EVO MR type aluminum BOV. Gone is the crappy plastic BOV! But what makes this whole thing strange is the BOV routing. There’s like 6ft of tubing going from the boost tube to the BOV! There are 2 obvious places to tap the BOV into, and where Mitsubishi did it, is not the obvious place.
The air box has the normal front type air scoop to get its fresh air from. But like most all other car, this sucks from a low pressure area. No ram air intake here! The filter looks like a real simple thing to install, look for a high flow filter from us to come out real soon.
Now onto the other things that keep the engine rocking, and held back! Like the older EVO there is still the 100% functional scoops mounted on the passenger side feeding the oil cooler. Another small but important feature you don’t find on the Subarus. Wha t is strange is both driver and passenger side grills have a vent, and both have exhaust vents cut into the plastic wheel liner. So why is there one on the drivers side? Is this for a future tranny cooler??
When we get to the exhaust, we can see that it’s a much straighter shot to the back of the car. Less bends, and less piping surely make this a decent exhaust. Its decent, but not great. Great would be a 3” SS exhaust and a straight through muffler. The older EV O had one cat and an 02 sensor after it. The new “cat pipe” actually had 2 cats in one piece. There is one physical cat, but 2 bricks. In between these 2 bricks is the 02 sensor. I know in the EVO world its all about getting rid of the cats. This is not legal in any state, nor something we condone. High flow cats are not restrictive, and we see this with all the testing we do. So expect to see the PERRIN “Cat pipe” with a cat in the pipe…..
The rest of the exhaust is 2.25” tubing with tons of heat shields all over it. The shields are ok, but they got to go! Along with this over shielded exhaust, is an over built 02 sensor holder. I think Mitsubishi could have knocked off $1000, or added NAV for free if they just moved the 02 sensor to the other side of the car.
The muffler section is a little strange in that it’s a center inlet design, which wouldn’t be so bad if it entered exactly in the center. After a few runs on the dyno you can see how it starts to dis-color. Another strange thing is them muffler section is connected by another flex joint. Why is the question, who knows!
After we got 600miles on the clock we dynoed the car, which really surprised us! As seen above our muffler got a little color, as did our bumper with the flames we saw!
And the video we did……………
DRIVETRAIN
The Tranny is similar but different. Its laid out very similar, but with a lot more trickery involved with making the car get around the corners. We didn’t invent the S-AWC system, so we are not going to pretend to be experts. We could just copy down what all the magazines say about it, but the truth is it works. You point, it steers, simple as that. The ECU modifies the Throttle, brakes, front/center/rear diffs and makes the car go! Its nice to know all this cool stuff is happening when going around corners, it makes me want to see what the ECU is actually doing. Oh wait, I have the Super A-Wack (S-AWC) display! This is great, while I am going mach 5 around the corners I can watch the Super A-Wack display move around and tell me whats going on. Seriously, the display is a gimmick, but its cool to see move as you corner hard.
To control the diffs, and apply different TQ to the wheels, the cars uses hydraulics. The pump and reservoir are moved to the back of the car out of the engine bay. It’s a great way to take some of the weight off the front of the car and move it to the back. Mitsu also moved the battery back there for the same reason.
While we are at back of the car, lets look at the suspension. Like the older car, lots of forged aluminum bits. There is no reason for Mitsubishi to go and change the rear suspension because it worked so well. The same basic multilink design is used, but for some reason they changed out one of the nice aluminum arms for a steel unit. Must have saved them, what, $5? But really not much different here. There are a couple added braces running from the diff mounting supports, to the subframe, and from the control arm mounts to the subframe.
The front suspension is very similar to the older car, but more boxed in around the rear mount of front lower arm. Obviously this was done to stiffen up an already rock solid mount. The good news about the front is that our PSRS looks like it will fit! The old subframe had a huge cut out for the exhaust to pass under and with Mitsu rotating the engine around, this allowed for a stiffer flatter sub frame. A small but cool detail.
All these little things make the EVO a very solid handling car. The suspension is stiffer than the STI (which is good and bad), and the steering rack ratio is a lot faster so it takes less input to make it around the corners. The rack is the one thing Subaru should have taken note on a long time ago. WTF Subaru? Oh wait, this article is about how cool the EVO is…..
Interior
The interior doesn’t have a lot to say other than, Finally! Finally the interior better fits the cost of the car. Almost every inch of the car got revamped. If we look at the old car, every piece of the X is better. Better finish, better materials, better fit, better everything. But, here comes the but, its still not up to par with the Subaru or some of the Euro cars. There are definitely things left to be desired about the interior. For me, it’s the steering wheel, and textures on the plastic controls. And where’s the telescoping wheel? The S TI has this and makes for a great seating position for us tall dudes. But I think what makes up for all the interior issues for me is the seats! Like previous EVO’s the seats are perfect! Even the little fake carbon headrest trim is kind of cool.
There is one more thing that is a step down in the controls department. The Shifter. It used to be super solid, super smooth, and nearly perfect. But now its clunky and almost hard to drive smoothly. I hope that as time passes it get better, but at this point with 800 miles on the clock it is far behind the STI in shifter quality.
Oh one more thing. The clutch. Its way different than the other cars around the shop, and almost weak feeling. Maybe Mitsu used too tight of a restirctor in the hydraulic lines. This could be a problem once we start going to the track and doing some launches. But who knows we will see!
Ok fine, one more thing. The trunk! If you get Fosgate Stereo like we did, you quickly find that the trunk is a little tight. I am sure you can cram a golf bag or dead body can fit back there, but neither of those things are items i plan on putting back there. This is an area where Mitsu cheesed out on. The carpet, the trim pieces that cover up the floor boars are pretty cheap looking. Its like they went down to the craft store and the Depot and make a floor. While we are talking about the trunk. Also the window washer is back there but located in a spot that is going to be very hard to fill. Esspecially when we put our Water injection system on the car.
Conclusion
At this point the EVO X doesn’t have the Ralliart to compare to like the WRX. It seems that when we were commenting on the ST I vs WRX, it was easy to look at the things Subaru did to distinguish the 2 cars. Hopefully Mitsubishi doesn’t have to many dis tinguishing features from the X to the Ralliart model, the more they keep it looking like the EVO X, the better. My guess for Mitsu to get the price down to the $24K range, the wing, wheels, brakes, seats and some of the aluminum suspension bits will be gone. While this does suck, it’s the only way to knock off $10K of the price.
The X is a great car, and seeing and driving one in person makes me want to get rid of our families 08 WRX and get EVO, but then the dogs won’t fit in the back. That is a perfect setup, STI and an EVO in the garage. I just have to figure out how to make that work……
If there was one thing I could change about the EVO is……………. The engine. It needs .5 more liters to be a real competitor!! J
With the acronyms the 08 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Ten has, AYC, S-AWC, S-Sport, ACD, ABS MR, 4B11, PS, DSG, MP3, ASC, GPS, TC-SST, its interesting how all these things can be scribed in one simple letter……X
Here is my attempt at combining information for our ABS DIY repair writeup in a single post: Credit: Extensive leverage from other sources; as new information comes in, I will update this post as long as it will let me. Future: Maybe someone can put a copy of this in the DIY section after it's properly reviewed for mistakes. CLASSIC ABS FAILURE SYMPTOMS: - Most of the time, the problem is the ABS module or one of the 4 wheel speed sensors (& sometimes the brake pressure sensor) - In my 2002 BMW E39 DSC, three orange (warning) cluster display lights lit, ABS, Brake, & DSC - The 3 warning lights reset when the ignition is turned off, only to repeatedly reappear within minutes of normal driving - The fault is often intermittent leading you to falsely believe you've resolved the problem (proper diagnosis is important) - Sometimes the fault only appears when the engine is hot; other times only at speeds over 40 mph
- Carsoft may erroneously show a rear speed sensor failure; but just replacing the speed sensor may make no difference.
- All the work is in correct diagnosis of the problem[/URL]; parts replacement is trivial (from 1 to six bolts in a few minutes) - Hence, this BMW E39 ABS 3-warning light DIY will concentrate on understanding and diagnosis of the problem
FALSE ALARM SANITY CHECK: If you recently drove on ice, a dynamometer, or on another very slippery surface, the car may just think the system has malfunctioned. - Driving a few miles on a regular surface should fix the problem. - Another fix is to slowly turn the steering wheel from completely left to completely right, then back again. - The warning lights will reset whenever you turn the car off (but go back on if the fault persists) BMW DESIGN PROBLEM: - The E39 ABS module was mounted too close to engine heat causing solder cracks & fried electronics - The 4 wheel sensors and wires are exposed to the elements and to shocks/vibration - The 3 steering yaw sensors seem pretty well protected from both hazards but they may need recalibration[/URL] Note: Apparently newer-model BMWs moved the ABS module further away from engine heat (need confirmation)
FLOW CHART OF RECOMMENDED ACTIONS: 0) Watch, for a few days, speedo, odometer, tripmeter, cruise control, transmission, & ABS/BRAKE/DSC light activity 1) If ABS/BRAKE/DSC constantly comes back, test the 4 wheel sensor circuits from the ABS module connector 2) If any sensor circuit shows up as bad, test that specific sensor itself at that wheel (otherwise skip to step 5) 3) If the wheel sensor still shows up as bad, first remove, clean, grease, and re-install that sensor 4) If it still tests bad, then replace the sensor ... 5) If the sensors are good, test the ABS circuit with the Carsoft or Peake tools (or just assume a bad ABS module) 6) If the Carsoft or Peake tools indicate a different sensor, test & replace that sensor (e.g., pressure, yaw, acceleration, etc.) 7) Otherwise, assume your ABS module is the culprit (some say get your ABS module rebuilt anyway as it's going to go eventually) ... 8) If your ABS module is suspected, you have only the following 5 options: - OPTION 0: You can do nothing and just not have ABS or DSC (not a good choice for anyone on this message board) - OPTION 1: You can attempt a 3-part rebuild yourself (unfortunately we don't have enough information to help you yet) - OPTION 2: You can send your module out for a rebuild (about 1/3 to 1/2 can be rebuilt but you'll have no speedo in the interim) - OPTION 3: You can buy a rebuilt module (you'll have to add approximately $100 for a VIN recode at the dealer) - OPTION 4: You can buy a brand new module (you'll again have to pay for a BMW dealership recoding to your VIN) Note: Most people don't deal with testing the other 15 items; they just opt for sending their ABS module out to be rebuilt, which isn't necessarily a bad thing because generally it is the ABS and even if it isn't, some argue it's not a bad idea to rebuild even a working ABS. READ THE SHOP MANUAL: ( http://www.bentleypublishers.com/isb...179/index.html ) - For DSC pinouts, see Volume II, page ELE-15 of ABS/DSC controle module (A65) (2 sensors in the front and 2 in the rear) - For ASC pinouts, see Volume II, page ELE-21 of ABS/ASC controle module (A52) (only 1 sensor in the front and 1 in the rear) - For ABS/ASC/DSC system operation, see Volume I, page 300-12 (it's not all that useful though) - For ABS/ASC/DSC system components, see Volume I, page 340-26 (again, not all that useful if you have this) READ BMW MANUALS: - Bosch DSC part 1[/URL], Bosch DSC part II[/URL] (kindly supplied[/URL] by Max_VQ[/URL]) READ THESE ARTICLES: - http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/ABS/Index.htm - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=600452 - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1230488 - http://cparente.wordpress.com/2008/1...o-abs-problem/ - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=363554 - http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...39#post4202239 etc. UNDERSTAND DIGITAL MULTIMETER (DMM) TEST BASICS: - http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/2.html
GATHER SEAT-OF-THE-PANTS DATA: - Note exactly which warning indicators are lit (e.g., ABS & BRAKE & DSC) - Note whether cruise control is working or not (sometimes implicates the passenger-side rear sensor) - Note whether the speedometer (hence odometer & tripmeter) is working (sometimes implicates the driver-side rear sensor) - Note "free play", "dead spots", & "centering" of the steering wheel (sometimes implicates steering column sensors) - Note if normal ABS pulsation (ABS working) or skidding (ABS not working) when hard braking on sandy shoulders at 15 mph - Note if violent shudder[/URL] (ABS working) or screech (ABS not working) when firm braking on top of speed bumps at 5mph Note: It's not always just the sensor when the speedometer is also out with the 3 lights (the key is diagnosis) ACKNOWLEDGE ALL POSSIBLE (20) & MOST LIKELY (2) CULPRITS: • 1 BOSCH DC III Control Module 83 Pin (combined with the hydraulic unit in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) <==COMMON CULPRIT! • 1 Hydraulic Unit (combined with the control module in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) • Hydraulic Unit contains: 2 pre-charge solenoid valves • Hydraulic Unit contains: 2 changeover solenoid valves • Hydraulic Unit contains: 4 intake solenoid valves • Hydraulic Unit contains: 4 outlet solenoid valves • Hydraulic Unit contains: 1 return pump • 2 Front Wheel Speed Sensors (Active Hall Effect) in the steering knuckles, secured with two 4 mm allen bolts <==COMMON CULPRIT! • 2 Rear Wheel Speed Sensors (Active Hall Effect) in the rear wheel bearing carriers, secured with one 4 mm allen bolt <==COMMON CULPRIT! • 1 Hydraulic Pressure Sensor (attached to the front-brake hydraulic unit in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) <==MY PROBLEM! • 1 Steering Angle Sensor (located in the bottom of the steering column, near the flexible coupling) • 1 Rotation Rate, aka Yaw Sensor (combined with the lateral-acceleration sensor in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) • 1 Lateral Acceleration Sensor (combined with the yaw sensor in my E39, DSC III Bosch 5.7) • 1 DSC Switch (located below the radio in the cockpit) • 1 Hand Brake Switch (located on the hand brake assembly) • 1 Brake Switch (located on the brake-pedal assembly) • 1 Pre-Charging Pump • 1 Charging Piston (750iL only) PHOTOGRAPH OF THE MOST LIKELY CULPRITS:
GATHER DESIRED TOOLS: - Print this DIY out, bring a pencil to mark down your readings, and a drink - Digital multi meter (DMM) with a diode-test capability & long, very narrow probes - About six inches of 20 AWG stiff wire (to attach to your DMM probes and to the female ABS connector) - A small piece of white or yellow tape so that you can label the positive stiff wire (to avoid confusion with the negative probe) - T20 six-point Torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6" extension for removing the ABS control module - 4mm allen wrench for removing the front wheel sensors - Torque wrench (see torque tables below) for replacing components - For rear sensors, a 10 mm socket, 8 mm socket, flat-head screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers might be required to remove trim. - 1/4-inch wide 6-inch long standard flathead screwdriver for removing ABS harness connector clip - CRC cleaner (or equivalent brake cleaner) - Staburags NBU 12/K or equivalent grease (for speed sensors and connections in the housings) GATHER OPTIONAL TOOLS: - (maybe) 10mm socket for removing air filter box (easier access for some E39 models) - Carsoft 6.5 or Peake Research or equivalent OBDII diagnostic scanner - Oscilloscope (look for millivolt square waves coming from powered sensors as the wheel turns) - Note: Carsoft 6.5 can't perform encoding, activation, or steering adjustments. - Note: Bad ABS modules often report erroneous indications of a bad RR sensor in the OBD scanner reports - Note: You must use new bolts for the ABS Control Module (according to the Bentleys) PRICE OEM PARTS: - Repair kit, control unit DSC, $1,120 + $112 (~10% tax) = $1,232 (often colloquially referred to as the "ABS control
unit") - Wheel sensors, front, $134 x 2 = $268 + $27 (~10% tax) = $295 total (some suggested EAC tuning for wheel sensors) - Wheel sensors rear, $201 x 2 = = $402 + $40 (~10% tax) = $442 total (some suggested AutoHauz for wheel sensors) - Front brake pressure sensor, $111 + 10% tax = ~$125 (measures 0-250bars of front-brake pressure, outputs 0-5 volts) - Steering angle (yaw) sensors (in the steering wheel column or under driver's seat) ~$250 each (almost never needed) - Hydro unit, DSC, $2,003 x 1 + $200 (~10% tax) = $2,013 (this "hydro unit" behind the ABS control unit is almost never at fault) Note: If you replace the ABS module, you'll also need a $100 dealership recoding to your VIN & steering angles calibrated (apparently) PRICE REBUILDING OF YOUR ABS MODULE: - Module Masters ($105) http://www.modulemaster.com/en/abs/ate_bmw_asc.php - BBA Remanufacturing (8 days, $225) http://www.bba-reman.com - Auto & Truck Electronics ($105) EBAY seller's ID ATE1234, lifetime warranty, free shipping, quick turnaround - Note: A rebuild of your ABS unit won't require VIN coding, activation, or steering angle calibration PRICE A REBUILT ABS MODULE FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE: - For a rebuilt part, most suggest oembimmerparts.com[/URL], one of our sponsors[/URL], at about $450 + $45 tax = $500 - Note: A rebuilt ABS unit from another vehicle requires a $100 dealership VIN recoding effort QUESTION: What happens if you don't code the VIN & check steering angles ... (does the car blow up?) CONSIDER FIXING IT YOURSELF (we need much more details to make this option viable): - Open up the module & look for broken solder joints which can be sucked and resoldered (take pictures) - Add point-to-point wiring where needed (we need more information to make this actionable) - Replace diodes and any other weak parts with more robust parts (again, not very useful unless we know exactly what) - Post before and after pictures so each of us can learn from the rest CHECK BMW ERROR CODES: - Locate the OBDII port, by law, in the cockpit, within 3 feet of the driver (above the driver's left knee in American BMWs) - Hook up Carsoft[/URL] or Peake diagnostic tools[/URL] to the OBDII port to determine any error codes - Cross reference Carsoft error codes[/URL] with the list of Bosch 5.7 error codes listed bellow (kindly supplied by Max_VQ[/URL]) Note: Some say this check is of dubious value because a bad ABS module may show up as a bad rear sensor[/URL]; always test the sensor itself! BMW ABS/ASC Bosch[/URL] 5.7 Table of error codes:[/URL] 5 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor 6 Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor 7 Front Left Wheel Speed Sensor 14 Solenoid Valve Relay (check fuses 17 & 33) 15 Pressure Sensor/Pump Error 21 Module Memory Failure - ABS/ASC module is faulty 23 Incorrect Coding - ABS/ASC module is faulty 24 Wrong Impulse 30 Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor 31 Open Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor 32 Open Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor 33 Open Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor 50 Right Front Outlet Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty 51 Left Rear Outlet Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty 54 Left Front Inlet Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty 55 ASC Intake Valve - ABS/ASC module is faulty 58 Gear Box Control Unit (CAN bus error) 59 DMER1 (CAN bus error) 61 Steering Angle Sensor Identification 66 Speed Sensor Voltage Supply
67 Intermittent Interference 75 Engine Speed Fault from DME 81 Pressure Sensor 82 Open Yaw Rate Sensor 86 ASC Cut-off Valve Rear Axle 88 Precharge Pump 89 Low Voltage 90 Temporary System Deactivation 94 DDE Fault/Yaw rate sensor 97 Steering Angle Sensor 10 Brake Light Switch 108 SN Control 112 Open CAN to Instrument Cluster 114 Pressure Sensor Offset 117 Brake Light Switch Failure 118 DME Status-Internal Error REMOVE ABS-MODULE CONNECTOR: - Facing the engine, slide the plastic retaining clip to the right with a 1/4 inch flathead screwdriver. - It is a plastic retaining clip, so do be careful not to break it; it slides over about 1 1/4 inches or so. - Once the clip is fully to the right, lift the electrical connector up - Notice the female (blue) connector with 42 holes (and very tiny lettering) - DO NOT STICK YOUR TEST LEAD INTO THE SQUARE HOLES! (Only put test leads into the larger rectangular holes next to the square holes.)
NOTE ABS-MODULE PINOUT: (notice the test lead holes) - Each wheel sensor circuit has a set of two wires in the ABS connector (pinout[/URL] kindly supplied by 540iman[/URL]) - ABS-connector pins 13,29 = Left rear wheel sensor (also affects speedometer & odometer & tripmeter) - ABS-connector pins 30,31 = Right rear wheel sensor (also affects cruise control) - ABS-connector pins 28,12 = Left front wheel sensor (some say it also acts as a steering angle sensor[/URL]) - ABS-connector pins 15,16 = Right front wheel sensor (tells gearbox electronics how fast you're going[/URL]) Note: These pinouts are in the same order of the diode action of each sensor (do not reverse these numbers) Note: Don't confuse with the brake pad wear sensor, which is only located on the front left & rear right wheel & which uses a black connector. Note: ASC cars have only two sensors, one on the front right and the other on the rear left wheel. UNDERSTAND WHEEL SPEED SENSORS: Note: The wheel speed sensors are two-wire hall effect transducers which send a digital square wave signal with a low of .75 volts and a high of 2.5 volts to the DSC control unit. Each sensor receives a well-regulated 8 volt power supply from the control module through one wire. The ground path for the sensor is through the second wire back to the control module. The signal is generated by a pulse wheel affecting the voltage flow through the hall element in the sensor. The pulse wheel is integrated into the wheel bearing assembly, behind the seal. This protects the trigger wheel from foreign substances which may affect the wheel speed signal.
TEST WHEEL SENSOR CIRCUIT FROM THE ABS CONNECTOR (also checks wiring circuit): OPTIONAL: Jack car up (so that all four wheels can be spun to test voltage & resistance fluctuations of the hall-effect sensors) - Turn the car off and remove the key from the ignition. - TEST 1: Switch the DMM into the diode test position - Wrap a stiff 20AWG wire onto the ends of your DMM probe for sticking into ABS-connector pins - Label the positive 20AWG wire with white tape so that you won't get confused as you switch back and forth - Stick the ends of the wire into the appropriate female holes of the ABS connector (13-29, 30-31, 28-12, 15-16) - In one direction, you should see 1.7 to 1.8 volts (note the pinouts mentioned are in order, positive to negative) - In the other direction, you should see OL or some other infinite reading (open circuit) - TEST 2: Switch the DMM into resistance checking mode (optional) - You should see around 3.3 Mega ohms in one direction & approximately twice that in the other direction (but some say more[/URL]) - TEST 3: If desired spin the wheel at about 1 revolution per second[/URL], by hand (the resistance should fluctuate as the wheel spins[/URL]) - TEST 4: Switch the DMM into millivolt mode (optional) & again spin the tire & wheel assembly by hand (test-lead polarity won't matter) - You should read between 1 and 5 mV when you spin the hub[/URL] (no voltage implicate the sensor or circuit) - OPTIONAL TESTS BELOW REQUIRE FLYING LEADS WITH THE IGNITION SYSTEM ABS SYSTEM CONNECTED & POWERED UP: - TEST 5: Swith the DMM into the 10v and attach flying leads to the sensors with the power on - You should see the voltage going to the sensor and the return signal[/URL] - Expect a baseline voltage of about +5 to +12 volts depending on the ABS system (does anyone know this value?) - Expect that baseline voltage to the sensor to change (by how much?) as you spin the wheels - TEST 6: Hook an oscilloscope with "flying leads" to the ABS sensors (notice that the ABS system must be powered) - You should see nice clean square waves generated as you hand spin the wheels[/URL] at about 1 revolution per second. Note: The oscilliscope can detect problems [/URL]that can't easily be found with a DMM (A scope pattern for a wheel
speed sensor should show a classic sine wave alternating current pattern that changes both in frequency and amplitude with wheel speed. As the wheel is turned faster, signal frequency and amplitude should both increase. Damaged or missing teeth on the sensor ring will show up as flat spots or gaps in the sine wave pattern. A bent axle or hub will produce an undulating pattern that changes as the strength of the sensor signal changes with every revolution. If the scope pattern produced by the sensor is flattened (diminished amplitude) or is erratic, it usually indicates a weak signal caused by an excessively wide air gap between the tip of the sensor and its ring, or a buildup of metallic debris on the end of the sensor. A weak signal can also be caused by internal resistance in the sensor or its wiring circuit, or loose or corroded wiring connectors.)
INTERPRET DIODE-TEST RESULTS: - If the DMM, in diode mode, reads infinity ("OL") in both directions, you've got a bad sensor or circuit - If the DMM, in resistance mode, reads much greater than 7Mohms, you've got a bad sensor or circuit - If all 4 sensors read OK, it's most likely the ABS control unit. - If you think you found two bad sensors, you probably messed up. - Rarely is the cause due to bad steering angle (yaw/lew) sensors - Rarely is the cause due to a bad hydro unit - The problem is almost always a wheel rotation sensor or the ABS control unit ACTUAL RESULTS ON MY 2002 E39 THIS MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND:
DOUBLECHECK WHEEL SENSORS AT THE WHEEL: Note: You can run this test w/o removing the wheel but access to the sensor connector is easier with the wheels off the E39 - If one or more sensor circuits test bad in any of the three tests above ... then ... - Locate the sensor blue connector in the rear of each front wheel well by turning the front wheels - Easiest to first locate the sensor (bolted on the wheel carrier near the hub) and trace its wire back to a black plastic hinged box housing
- Open the locked hinged plastic rectangular black box with a small flathead screwdriver - Locate the blue wheel sensor connector (next to a black brake wear sensor connector) - Pull the blue wheel sensor connector out of the box and disconnect the two sides - Re-check the sensor there with the diode function of the DMM
CHECK WHEEL SENSORS OFF THE VEHICLE: - If any sensor still checks bad, pull the sensor off the vehicle for a closer inspection - Chock wheels and jack E39 BMW and jack stand at the 4 jack pad locations - Remove 4mm allen head bolts to sensor retention screw (two retaining bolts for fronts, 1 bolt for the rears) - Pull wheel sensor out of hub assembly, straight up. - Clean with CRC electronic cleaner - Check with DMM diode-test meter as before - Grease with Staburags NBU 12/K or equivalent grease - Replace sensor back into hub assembly, snug tighten to 6 foot pounds - Replace rear wheel, tighten to 82 to 96 foot pounds Note: You might wish to swap sensors on the same axle when replacing so as to obtain further diagnostic information should an anomaly occur. Note: Here is a picture of a dirty and cleaned sensor (magnetic particle buildup[/URL])
TEST BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR (aka HYDRAULIC UNIT PRESSURE SENSOR): - This test procedure kindly suggested by Max_VQ: - Given 250 bar = 3,626 psi, and given 0-5 volts linear proportional output, 3,626 psi/ 5v = 725.2 psi/volt or 1.3 mV per psi. - With the ignition on, measure the voltage on the pressure sensor while someone is pressing hard on the brake pedal - My guess is that should create about 3,000 psi of force and should show around 4.13 volts. - At rest it should show very close to 0 volts Note: The front-brake pressure sensor provides a 0-5 volt linear voltage signal to the DSC III control module which is proportionate to how hard the driver is pressing on the brake pedal, from zero to 250 bars (3,626 psi), spanning (a) no braking, to (b) partial braking, and to (c) near-ABS-regulation state braking. This brake pressure sensor has three pins (a) power, (b) ground and (c) the 0-5 volt proportionate signal. Note: By way of comparison, the Corvette also has a brake pressure sensor to indicate how hard the brakes are being applied; it monitors pressure from 0 to 2000psi generating a corresponding signal of 0.20 volts to 4.80 volts[/URL]. LOCATION OF FRONT-BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR: • DSC III 5.3 (740i/iL and 540i) - The brake pressure sensor is located in the charge pump assembly.
• DSC III 5.3 (750iL) - The sensor is located on the charge piston unit. • DSC III 5.7 (ALL) - The sensor is located on the hydraulic unit on my 2002 E39.
TEST ROTATION RATE & LATERAL ACCELERATION SENSOR: - We do not yet have a test for this sensor; a description of operation is all we have at the moment (please suggest a test procedure so all benefit) - On Bosch DSC III (Bosch 5.7) the Rotation Rate sensor (yaw) and the Lateral Acceleration sensor have been combined into one unit located under the drivers seat under the carpet - The degree of rotation rate (yaw) transducer outputs a reference signal of 2.5 volts and a linear voltage of 0.7 to 4.3 volts - The lateral acceleration output signal should be 1.7 volts while the car is sitting still on a flat surface corresponding to 0 G side forces. - The lateral acceleration transducer outputs a linear voltage of 0.5 to 4.5 volts corresponding to a G-Force range of -1.5 to +3.5 G side forces depending on the motion of a fixed capacitor plate relative to a floating capacitor plate.
TEST STEERING ANGLE SENSOR: - We don't yet know how to test the steering-angle sensor (please advise) Note: The steering angle sensor, mounted at the bottom of the steering column near the flexible coupling, utilizes two potentiometers to determine the steering angle and the rate of steering angle change, which are are the two raw signals the CAN bus microprocessor utilizes to create the steering angle signal for broadcast over the CAN bus. The DSC III logic compares the stored plausibility of the steering angle sensor against other DSC III inputs (front wheel speeds, rotation rate and lateral acceleration sensors). STEERING ANGLE SENSOR:
REMOVE ABS MODULE: - Remove the six T20 Torx screws holding the ABS module to the hydro unit - Pull the ABS module straight out towards the passenger side headlight. - Cover the hydro unit with aluminum foil to protect it from the elements - You can drive the car but you won't have a speedometer or odometer - Use a portable GPS unit with a speed display as your temporary speedometer - You may not have cruise control (need to test this) - Of course, you won't have ABS either but you didn't have that anyway
HINTS TO HELP OTHERS: - Consider taking apart your ABS module and posting before rebuild and after rebuild pictures - Consider paying rebuilders the extra $10 to return ABS modules that failed[/URL] (so you can take it apart & post pictures) - Consider selling your old module to the rebuilders if you buy a new or rebuilt ABS module from another vehicle - A portable GPS unit doubles as a speedometer in the interim while your ABS module is being rebuilt REINSTALL ABS MODULE: - Note: There is a gasket attached to the new unit. - Carefully place the new module over the control actuators.
- Loosely replace the six new T20 Torx screws included with the new module. - Tighten snug tight, and then a little more to seat the gasket. - Reposition the ABS electrical connector - Press down on the ABS connector while pushing the retaining clip to the left - Reassemble the Air Filter box & MAF (if it was disassembled for Torx access). INITIALIZE ABS MODULES: - Note: This step is only necessary if you installed an ABS module that wasn't originally in the car in the first place - Take the E39 to an Indy to encode the VIN (I'm not sure what happens if you don't do this) - Take the E39 to an Indy to check and adjust the steering angle (I'm not sure why) - Some say the steering angle sensor may have to be recalibrated when you put on a remanufactured or new ABS module. TORQUE TABLE: - 4mm wheel sensor bolts (two each for the front sensors, 1 each for the rear sensors) = 6 foot pounds - Combination lateral acceleration/rotational rate sensor (under driver seat) = 6 foot pounds - DSC bolts to the hydraulic unit (new bolts only) = 26 inch pounds - Hydraulic unit to body = 6 foot pounds - Hydraulic unit mounting bracket = 6 foot pounds - Brake lines to hydraulic unit = 13 foot pounds - Wheel lug nuts = 82 to 96 foot pounds DIAGRAM OF THE 2002 E39 DSC III BOSCH 5.7 SYSTEM:
USE THIS CHART TO DETERMINE WHICH ABS SYSTEM YOU HAVE:
