Finishing

Published on January 2017 | Categories: Documents | Downloads: 31 | Comments: 0 | Views: 247
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Introduction
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to any process performed on yarn or fabric after weaving to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile or clothing. Some finishing techniques, such as fulling, have been in use with hand-weaving for centuries; others, such as mercerisation, are byproducts of the Industrial Revolution. Calendering Calendering is a finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and passed under rollers at high temperatures and pressures. Calendering is used on fabrics such as moire to produce its watered effect and also on cambric and some types of sateens. In preparation for calendering, the fabric is folded lengthwise with the front side, or face, inside, and stitched together along the edges. The fabric can be folded together at full width, however this is not done as often as it is more difficult. The fabric is then run through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous. High temperatures and pressure are used as well. Fabrics that go through the calendering process feel thin, glossy and papery. The calendering finish is easily destroyed, and does not last well. Washing in water destroys it, as does wear with time. Decatising or decatizing Decatising or decatizing, also known as crabbing, blowing, and decating, is the process of making permanent a textile finish on a cloth, so that it does not shrink during garment making. The word comes from the French décatir, which means to remove the cati or finish of the wool. Though used mainly for wool, the term is also applied to processes performed on fabrics of other fibers, such as cotton, linen or polyester. Crabbing and blowing are minor variations on the general process for wool, which is to roll the cloth onto a roller and blow steam through it. Decatized wool fabric is interleaved with a cotton, polyester/cotton or polyester fabric and rolled up onto a perforated decatizing drum under controlled tension. The fabric is steamed for up to ten minutes and then cooled down by drawing ambient air through the fabric roll. The piece is then reversed and steamed again in order to ensure that an even treatment is achieved. Emerizing or Sanding

In order to obtain a suedelike surface, fabrics may be given a sanding by passing themthrouugh a series of emery-covered rollers. The process produces asoft, chamoislike nap. However, it is subject to pilling. Fabrics given this finish should not be confused with such fabrics as

Ultrasuede, Aqua-suede, Amara, and Suede21, which are produced by entirely different means are dependent upon the fiber and fabric structure used to obtain their suedelike character. Sanforization Sanforization is a process of treatment used for cotton fabrics mainly and most textiles made from natural or chemical fibres, it is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and width, before cutting and producing to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise occur after washing. The cloth is continually fed into the sanforizing machine and therein moistened with either water or steam. A rotating cylinder presses a rubber band against another heated rotating cylinder, thereby the rubber band briefly gets compressed and afterwards shrinks to its final size. The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber band and heated cylinder and is forced to follow this brief expansion and recontraction and thus gets shrunk. The bigger the pressure applied to the rubber band the bigger the shrinking afterwards. The aim of the process is a cloth which does not shrink during clothes production by cutting, sewing or by wearing and washing the finished clothes. For technical application cloth may be specified to have a shrink-proof value of under 1%. Resin or wrinkle free finishing A process for resin finishing textile containing cellulosic fiber comprises the steps of using a resin finishing agent chiefly containing a cellulose-reactive N-methylol compound having two or more functional groups and a reaction catalyst, mainly reacting only one functional group of the cellulose-reactive N-methylol compound with cellulose, water washing, again imparting reaction catalyst, drying, garment making, and heat treating. The process eliminates the conventional postcuring method drawbacks of loss of color fastness and discoloration owing to dye decomposition and formaldehyde increase by unreacted resin and residual reaction catalyst during long storage before heat treatment, and simultaneously achieves high crease-resistant property, shrink resistance, good feeling, excellent pleating property, and anti-puckering property. Anti-microbial finish causes a fabric to inhibit the growth of microbes. The humid and warm environment found in textile fibers encourages the growth of the microbes. Infestation by microbes can cause cross-infection by pathogens and the development of odor where the fabric is worn next to skin. In addition, stains and loss of fiber quality of textile substrates can also take place. With an aim to protect the skin of the wearer and the textile substrate itself, an antimicrobial finish is applied to textile materials. Anti-static finish prevents dust from clinging to the fabric. Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermasol or heat treatment for fixing on polyester fabrics. Polyether agents have been found to be useful but should not effect the dye-equilibrium on fiber,

lest they impair the rubbing fastness. In general, Thermasol anti-static agents also have a good soil release action, which is as permanent as the anti-static effect. Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type, being curable at moderate temperatures Crease resistant finishing; anticrease finishing; wrinkle-resistant finishing Crease resistant finishing; anticrease finishing; wrinkle-resistant finishing used with fabrics from regenerated cellulose or modalicfibres, or mixes of these with woollen or polyester fibres to improve fibre elasticity. Products finished in this way have the capacity to recover quickly from creasing, straightening out creases not only during wear but also after washing. This finish uses the following methods of high-temperature processing: impregnating of the material, drying and processing at high heat. Treatments include the use of aminoplastics which dissolve in water, in particular of ureal-formaldehyde type.

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