Hong Kong

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Hong Kong
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go
and the hardest part is over.

So go!”
TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Piera Chen
Chung Wah Chow

Contents
Plan
PlanYour
YourTrip
Trip

page

1

4

Welcome to Hong Kong ... 4

If You Like .....................22

Eating .......................... 34

Hong Kong’s Top 16 ....... 6

Month by Month ...........25

Drinking & Nightlife.. 43

What’s New ....................17

With Kids .......................28

Entertainment ........... 48

Need to Know ............... 18

Like a Local ................... 31

Shopping ...................... 51

Top Itineraries ..............20

For Free .........................33

Sports & Activities .... 57

Explore Hong Kong
Neighbourhoods at a
Glance ...........................64
Hong Kong Island:
Central...........................66
Hong Kong Island:
the Peak & the
Northwest .....................82

62

Hong Kong Island:
Wan Chai & the
Northeast .................... 104
Hong Kong Island:
Aberdeen & the
South ........................... 127
Kowloon....................... 135

Understand Hong Kong

New Territories ........... 164
Outlying Islands.......... 192
Day Trips from
Hong Kong .................216
Macau ..........................232
Sleeping .................... 263

281

Hong Kong Today .......282

Arts ..............................295

Architecture ............... 306

History ........................ 284

Cinema ....................... 303

Macau’s History &
Culture......................... 310

315

Survival Guide
Hong Kong
Transport ....................316

Hong Kong
Directory A–Z ............ 328

Macau Transport....... 325

Macau
Directory A–Z ............ 336

Hong Kong Maps

360

Language ................... 339
Index ...........................350

4

How to Use This Book

Get the right guides for your trip

Top Sights features provide in-depth
coverage of the city’s very best sights.

easy-to-use
sections

THE PEAK

Plan Your Trip
Your planning tool kit – Photos, lists and
suggestions to help you put together your
perfect trip.

Explore
Your complete city guide –
Top Sights features, in-depth reviews and
local tips.

Understand
Get more from your trip – Learn about
the big picture, so you can make sense of
the city.

Your at-a-glance reference – Vital
practical information to help you have a
smooth trip.

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Reviews are ordered by author preference
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1 SIGHTS
5 EATING
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
3 ENTERTAINMENT
7 SHOPPING
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

These symbols give you the vital
information for each listing:

Survival Guide

Key on p364

These symbols help you to quickly
identify listings in the text and on the
maps:

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GEORGE CHAN/GETTY IMAGES ©

62

Explore
Hong Kong
Neighbourhoods at a
Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Hong Kong Island:
Central . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . .80

Hong Kong Island:
The Peak & the
Northwest . . . . . . . . . . 82
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .96
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .99
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 103

Hong Kong Island:
Wan Chai & the
Northeast . . . . . . . . . 104
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 121
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 123
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 126

Hong Kong Island:
Aberdeen & the
South . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 133
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 134

Kowloon . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149
Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 157
Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 158
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 163

New Territories . . . . . 164
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
Tsuen Wan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Tuen Mun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Yuen Long . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Fanling & Sheung Shui . . . 173
Tai Po . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Plover Cove . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Sha Tin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Sai Kung Peninsula . . . . . . 184
Clearwater Bay
Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189

Outlying Islands . . . . 192
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
Lamma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
Lantau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Cheung Chau . . . . . . . . . . .210

Day Trips from Hong
Kong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Shēnzhèn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217
Guǎngzhōu . . . . . . . . . . . . .223

Macau . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233
Macau Peninsula . . . . . . . .234
The Islands: Taipa &
Coloane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .254

Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . .263

63

HONG KONG’S
TOP SIGHTS
HSBC Building.................. 68
Star Ferry ...........................69
Victoria Peak..................... 84
Man Mo Temple.................85
Hong Kong Park ..............106
Hong Kong Museum of
History.............................. 137
Tsim Sha Tsui East
Promenade ......................138
Temple Street
Night Market....................139
Sik Sik Yuen Wong
Tai Sin Temple..................140
Chi Lin Nunnery ...............141
Mai Po Marshes...............165
Ping Shan Heritage Trail .166
Ngong Ping Plateau ........193
Ruins of the Church of
St Paul ............................. 233

360

Hong Kong
Maps

Map Legend
Sports & Activities

Sights
Beach
Buddhist
Castle
Christian
Hindu
Islamic
Jewish
Monument
Museum/Gallery
Ruin
Winery/Vineyard
Zoo
Other Sight

Diving/Snorkelling
Canoeing/Kayaking
Skiing
Surfing
Swimming/Pool
Walking
Windsurfing
Other Sports &
Activities

Information
Post Office
Tourist Information

Transport

Sleeping

Airport
Border Crossing
Bus
Cable Car/Funicular
Cycling
Ferry
Monorail
Parking
S-Bahn
Taxi
Train/Railway
Tram
Tube Station
U-Bahn
Underground
Train Station

Camping

Other Transport

Eating
Eating

Drinking & Nightlife
Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe

Entertainment
Entertainment

Shopping
Shopping

Sleeping

Routes

Geographic

Tollway

Hut/Shelter
Lighthouse
Lookout
Mountain/Volcano
Oasis
Park
Pass
Picnic Area
Waterfall

Freeway
Primary
Secondary
Tertiary
Lane
Unsealed Road
Plaza/Mall
Steps

Hydrography
River/Creek
Intermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/
Intermittent Lake
Glacier

Tunnel
Pedestrian
Overpass
Walking Tour
Walking Tour
Detour
Path

Boundaries
International
State/Province
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall

Areas
Beach/Desert
Cemetery
(Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
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Sportsground
Sight (Building)
Top Sight
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MAP INDEX
1 Central (p362)

4 Admiralty (p370)

7 Aberdeen (p376)

10 Hung Hom (p380)

2 Lan Kwai Fong & Soho
(p366)

5 Wan Chai (p372)

8 Stanley (p377)

11 Yau Ma Tei (p382)

6 Causeway Bay (p374)

9 Tsim Sha Tsui (p378)

12 Mong Kok (p383)

3 Sheung Wan (p368)

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Pier 4 (Ferries
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#
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F

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p370

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#

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Centre
ADMIRALTY
7

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G

Pacific
Island
Shangri-La Place
Hotel
H

CENTRAL HONG KONG

Pier 5 (Ferries
f
# to Cheung Chau)
f
# Pier 6 (Ferries to Lantau
& Peng Chau)

36 4

CENTRAL HONG KONG

CENTRAL HONG KONG Map on p362
æ Top Sights
(p68) ú Eating
(p72) þ Shopping
(p78)
HSBC Building................E5
Amber................... (see 48)
Ben Brown ........... (see 40)
Star Ferry ........................F2
Caprice ................. (see 47)
Blanc de Chine .....(see 41)
City Hall Maxim's
33 City Chain....................... D4
æ Sights
(p70)
Palace ..................(see 11)
Dymocks .............. (see 36)
1 Bank of China Tower .....F6
Citysuper.............. (see 37)
Fook Ming Tong Tea
2 Cenotaph ........................F5
Greyhound Cafe .. (see 37)
Shop................... (see 36)
3 Central Market .............. C3
22 Heichinrou ..................... D3
Gagosian .............. (see 40)
4 Cheung Kong Garden....F6
Inagiku.................. (see 47)
Galerie Perrotin ... (see 44)
5 Court of Final Appeal.... E6
23 Island Tang .................... E5
34 Giordano Ladies ............ D4
6 Exchange Square.......... E4
L'Atelier de Joel
Harvey Nichols .... (see 39)
Former French
Robuchon.......... (see 39)
35 Hong Kong Book
Mission Building..(see 5)
Le Jardin............... (see 39)
Centre.......................... E4
7 Former Legislative
Lei Garden............ (see 37)
36 IFC Mall........................... E3
Council Building ..........F5 24 Linguini Fini.................... C3
37 IFC Mall........................... E3
8 Government House ...... D6
Lung King Heen ... (see 47)
38 Joyce .............................. D5
9 Hanart TZ Gallery ......... D5
25 Lupa ................................ D4
39 Landmark....................... D5
10 Hong Kong City Hall
Petite Amanda..... (see 37)
Lane Crawford..... (see 37)
(High Block).................F4
Pierre .................... (see 49)
Oliver's, The
11 Hong Kong City Hall
Tasty Congee and
Delicatessen ......(see 41)
(Low Block)..................F4
Noodle Wonton
40 Pearl Lam Galleries....... D5
12 Hong Kong Club
Shop................... (see 37)
Picture This...........(see 41)
Building ........................F5
Three Sixty........... (see 39)
41 Prince's Building ........... E5
Hong Kong Monetary
Vero Chocolates.. (see 39)
42 Saamlung ....................... D3
Authority
26 Watermark......................F2
43 Shanghai Tang .............. D5
Information
Zuma..................... (see 39)
Simon Lee ............ (see 40)
Centre................ (see 20)
Three Sixty........... (see 39)
13 Hong Kong Planning
û Drinking & Nightlife (p75) 44 White Cube .................... C3
& Infrastructure
Amo Eno............... (see 36)
45 Wing On Department
Gallery ......................... G4
Captain's Bar....... (see 49)
Store ............................ B2
14 Hong Kong
27 DMYK.............................. C6
Zoological &
Le Salon de Thé... (see 39) Ø Sports & Activities (p80)
Botanical
Liberty Exchange ...(see 6) 46 Impakt Martial Arts
Gardens....................... D7
MO Bar ................. (see 39)
& Fitness
15 Jardine House ............... E4
28 Pier 7 Cafe & Bar............F2
Centre.......................... C4
16 Old Bank of China
29 Propaganda ................... C4
Pure Fitness......... (see 37)
Building ........................F6
Red Bar................. (see 37)
Spa at the Four
17 One International
Sevva .....................(see 41)
Seasons............. (see 47)
Finance Centre
30 T:me................................ B4
Ten Feet Tall ........ (see 24)
(One IFC)..................... D3
31 Volume ........................... B4
18 St John's Cathedral ...... E6
32 Works ............................. C6 ÿ Sleeping
(p267)
19 Statue Square ................F5
47 Four Seasons................. D2
20 Two International
ý Entertainment
(p78) 48 Landmark Mandarin
Finance Centre
Grappa's Cellar..... (see 15)
Oriental........................ D5
(Two IFC) .....................F2
Palace IFC Cinema(see 37) 49 Mandarin Oriental......... E5
21 World Wide House ........ E4

36 5

LAN KWAI FONG & SOHO Map on p366
43 Peak Cafe Bar ............................................. C4
44 Portrait Winemakers & Distillers.............. B3
45 Staunton's Wine Bar & Cafe ..................... C4
46 The Central Wine Club............................... G5
47 The Flying Winemaker ............................... F6
48 The Globe .................................................... C3
49 Tivo............................................................... E5

50 Whiskey Priest .............................................F5
ú Eating
(p90)
51 Yun Fu .......................................................... E6
7 Assaf.............................................................D2
Beyrouth Cafe Central ....................... (see 7) ý Entertainment
(p99)
8 Butao Ramen............................................... F4
52 Culture Club ................................................ B2
9 Club Qing ..................................................... F5
53 Fringe Club ..................................................G6
10 Flying Pan.....................................................D4
Fringe Studio Theatre...................... (see 53)
11 Good Spring Co........................................... E2
54 Hard Rock Café........................................... F6
12 Jashan ..........................................................D3
55 Joyce is Not Here ....................................... C2
13 Kung Lee ......................................................B2
56 Makumba Africa Lounge ........................... B3
14 Lan Fong Yuen.............................................D3
57 Peel Fresco.................................................. C2
15 Life Cafe .......................................................C4
58 TakeOut Comedy Club .............................. B4
16 Luk Yu Tea House ....................................... F3
17 Mak's Noodle............................................... E2 þ Shopping
(p101)
18 Olé Spanish Restaurant & Wine Bar ....... G6
59 Arch Angel Antiques .................................. C2
19 Pastis Bistro Francais ................................E4
60 Book Attic.................................................... C2
20 Posto Pubblico ............................................B4
61 Carpet Centre ............................................. D3
21 Robata Zawazawa ......................................E6
62 Chinese Arts & Crafts .................................F2
22 Ser Wong Fun.............................................. E2
63 Chocolate Rain ........................................... B3
23 Sing Kee ........................................................E1
64 City Chain .....................................................F2
24 Tai Cheong Bakery .....................................D3
65 Fang Fong Projects .................................... B3
25 Vbest Tea House.........................................B2
Flow .................................................... (see 66)
26 Wagyu........................................................... E5
66 Honeychurch Antiques.............................. D3
27 Wang Fu ....................................................... E2
67 L Plus H ........................................................ G3
28 Yellow Door Kitchen ...................................D2
68 Linva Tailor.................................................. D2
29 Yung Kee Restaurant ................................. F4
69 Lu Lu Cheung .............................................. F4
70 Mountain Folkcraft......................................F5
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p96)
Nude is Rude ..................................... (see 73)
30 Alhambra ..................................................... F5
71 Olympia Graeco-Egyptian Coffee ............ C5
31 Angel's Share Whisky Bar..........................D3
72 Photo Scientific ..........................................G4
32 Bar 1911 ........................................................C3
73 Pursue by Joel ............................................ F6
33 Bar 42 ...........................................................B2
74 Tai Sing Fine Antiques ............................... G5
34 Beijing Club..................................................G5
75 The 9th Muse .............................................. E3
35 Bit Point........................................................ F5
76 Wattis Fine Art ............................................ D3
36 Club 71..........................................................C2
37 Club 97 .........................................................G5 Ø Sports & Activities
(p103)
38 Dragon-I .......................................................E6
77 Happy Foot Reflexology Centre ............... E2
39 Gecko Lounge ............................................. E3
40 Insomnia ...................................................... F5 ÿ Sleeping
(p267)
41 La Dolce Vita................................................G5
78 Hanlun Habitats (Main Office).................. F4
42 Likuid ............................................................ F6
79 Hotel LKF ..................................................... F6

LAN KWAI FONG & SOHO

æ Sights
(p86)
1 10 Chancery Lane Gallery..........................D5
2 Blindspot Gallery ........................................B2
3 Central Police Station ................................D4
4 Graham St Market ......................................D2
5 Grotto Fine Art ............................................ F6
6 Schoeni Art Gallery.....................................C5

366
Key on p365
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æ Top Sights
(p85)
Man Mo Temple ................... C4

f
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Pier

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SHEUNG WAN

.
#

Des
Vo
e

æ Sights
(p86) ý Entertainment
(p99)
1 Amelia Johnson
31 Java Java ...............................B3
Contemporary................... D4
32 Sheung Wan Civic
2 Asia Art Archive ....................B3
Centre .................................C3
3 Cat Street Galleries ............. C4
33 XXX.........................................B2
4 Dr Sun Yat Sen Museum......D5
5 Hong Kong Museum of
þ Shopping
(p102)
Medical Sciences ...............C5 34 Haji Gallery ............................B4
6 Input/Output Gallery........... B4
35 Homeless...............................D4
2
7 Jamia Mosque ...................... D6
36 Indosiam ................................D4
8 Kwun Yam Temple............... B4
37 Karin Weber Gallery .............D5
9 Ohel Leah Synagogue ..........B5
38 La Cabane a Vin ....................D4
10 Pak Sing Ancestral Hall........B3
39 Lam Kie Yen Tea Co .............D3
11 Para/Site Artspace ..............B3
40 Lomography..........................B3
12 Queen's Rd West
41 Ranee K.................................. E4
Incense Shops................... C3
42 Select 18 ................................C4
13 Roman Catholic
43 The Pottery Workshop.........B4
3
Cathedral of the
44 Wing On.................................. E3
Immaculate
Conception ......................... E7 Ø Sports & Activities
(p103)
14 Sin Sin Fine Art..................... B4
45 Wan Kei Ho
15 Western Market ................... C2
International
Martial Arts
ú Eating
(p92)
Association.........................D3
16 Chan Chun Kee .....................B2
4
17 Chan Kan Kee........................B3 ÿ Sleeping
(p267)
18 Gaia Ristorante .....................E3
46 Bishop Lei International
19 Kau Kee Restaurant ............ D4
House .................................. E7
20 Lin Heung Kui ........................B2
47 Butterfly on Hollywood ........B3
21 Ngau Kee Food Café.............E4
48 Butterfly on Wellington........ E4
22 The Chairman....................... D4
49 Hotel LBP...............................B3
The Grand Stage ......... (see 15)
50 Ibis ..........................................B2
23 Tim's Kitchen........................ C3
51 Lan Kwai Fong Hotel ............ E4
5
24 Yardbird ................................ C4
52 Lily Court ............................... D7
53 Orchid.....................................D6
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p98)
54 Peach Blossom .....................D6
25 Barista Jam........................... C3
55 Putman ..................................D4
26 Cafe Loisl .............................. B4
56 The Bauhinia .........................D3
27 Cage....................................... D4
57 YWCA Building ......................A4
28 Capo's Espresso ...................E4
Knockbox Coffee
6
Company...................(see 30)
1

Hong KongMacau Ferry
Terminal

Pier
Rd

29 Oolaa ......................................C4
30 Teakha ...................................B4

370
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Cheung Kong
Garden

Citibank
Plaza

US
Consulate

Hong Kong
Zoological &
Botanical Gardens

¤
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5

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A

B

C

D

æ Top Sights
(p106) ú Eating
(p113)
Hong Kong Park ..........................................C4
AMMO ................................................... (see 1)
Cēpage................................................ (see 15)
æ Sights
(p107)
11 DALAT..........................................................H4
1 Asia Society Hong Kong Centre ............... F5
Great Food Hall.................................. (see 17)
2 Edward Youde Aviary .................................C4
Lock Cha Tea Shop .............................(see 6)
3 Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware.....D3
12 Pure Veggie House..................................... A4
4 Forsgate Conservatory ..............................D4
San Xi Lou........................................... (see 12)
5 Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre ..................B4
13 Vero Chocolates .........................................H2
6 KS Lo Gallery ...............................................D3
Yè Shanghai ....................................... (see 17)
7 Lippo Centre................................................ E3
8 New Central Government Offices............. F2 û Drinking & Nightlife
(p121)
9 Tamar Park ...................................................F1
14 1/5 ................................................................G4
10 The Helena May ..........................................B4
15 Classified Mozzarella Bar..........................G4

37 1
E

Lung King St
13

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(p123) ÿ Sleeping
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16 AMC Pacific Place.......................................F4
20 Garden View ................................................ A4
21 Island Shangri-La Hong Kong ................... E4
þ Shopping
(p123)
The Helena May .................................(see 10)
Anteprima ...........................................(see 17)
22 The Upper House........................................ F4
Chinese Arts & Crafts........................(see 17)
Joyce....................................................(see 17)
Kelly & Walsh ......................................(see 17)
Lane Crawford....................................(see 17)
17 Pacific Place ................................................F4
18 Sonjia........................................................... G4
Ø Sports & Activities
(p126)
19 Hong Kong Squash Centre ....................... C4

ADMIRALT Y

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WAN CHAI

1

1

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2

#
æ

w

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& Exhibition Centre
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¡
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p374

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#
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33

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rt
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Rd

See map
p370

Fleming Rd

4

Immigration
Department

32 ý
#
Causeway Sun
Centre Hung Kai
Centre
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#
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H
of China
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ñ
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48
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#
#
ÿ
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í
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#
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‚

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Expo Dr East

w

VALLEY

7

St

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Temple (150m)
C

D

37 3

WAN CHAI

WAN CHAI

æ Sights
(p107)
26 Amoy ............................................................ B6
1 Central Plaza ...............................................C4
27 Carnegie's.................................................... A4
2 Golden Bauhinia.......................................... C1
Champagne Bar................................ (see 40)
3 Hong Kong Academy for Performing
28 Coyote's Bar and Grill ................................ B5
Arts ............................................................A3
29 Delaney's ..................................................... B4
4 Hong Kong Arts Centre..............................A4
Habitat ............................................... (see 22)
5 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition
30 Mes Amis ..................................................... B4
Centre........................................................B3
31 Pawn............................................................. B5
6 Hong Kong House of Stories .....................C7
7 Hung Shing Temple ....................................A6 ý Entertainment
(p123)
8 Khalsa Diwan (Hong Kong) Sikh
Hong Kong Arts Centre ......................(see 4)
Temple ......................................................D6
32 Punchline Comedy Club ............................ D3
9 Old Wan Chai Post Office...........................B6
33 Wanch .......................................................... A4
Pao Sui Loong & Pao Yue Kong
Galleries ............................................ (see 4) þ Shopping
(p123)
10 Wan Chai Market ........................................C6
34 Bunn's Divers .............................................. C5
35 Chinese Arts & Crafts ................................ C3
ú Eating
(p114)
36 Cosmos Books............................................ A5
11 BO Innovation..............................................A5
Daydream Nation ................................(see 4)
12 Capital Cafe .................................................D5
Kung Fu Supplies.............................. (see 34)
13 Che's Cantonese Restaurant ....................A4
MCCM Bookshop ................................(see 4)
14 Fook Lam Moon ..........................................A5
37 Toys shops .................................................. B6
Grissini ...............................................(see 40)
38 Wan Chai Computer Centre...................... B5
15 Hang Zhou Restaurant...............................C5
39 Wet market.................................................. C6
16 Joi Hing Food Shop.....................................D5
17 Joon Ko Restaurant....................................C4 ÿ Sleeping
(p269)
18 La Creperie ..................................................A5
40 Grand Hyatt Hotel ...................................... B3
19 Liu Yuan Pavilion.........................................A5
41 Harbour View .............................................. A3
20 Madame Sixety Ate ....................................A5
42 JJ Hotel ........................................................ D5
21 Mang Ambo's Filipino Restaurant ............B4
43 Luk Kwok Hotel........................................... B4
22 Nino's Cozinha ............................................B6
44 Metropark Hotel ......................................... A5
23 Yin Yang .......................................................A6
45 Mingle Place by the Park ........................... D5
46 Regal iClub Hotel ........................................ D5
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p121)
47 The Burlington II ......................................... A5
24 Agave............................................................B4
48 The Fleming................................................. C4
25 Amici.............................................................A4
49 Ying King Apartment.................................. C5

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LEIGHTON
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HILL
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Museum (200m)

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#

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æ Sights
(p109) 24 Virus .......................................A4
1 Lin Fa Temple ........................ E5
41
2 Noonday Gun.........................B3 ý Entertainment
(p123)
To Thai Som ÿ
#
Tum (200m);
3 Royal Hong Kong Yacht
25 Windsor Cinema ...................C4
1
City Garden
Club......................................A2
Hotel (250m)
4 Tin Hau Temple .....................E3 þ Shopping
(p123)
¡
#
Fortress
Citysuper .....................(see 30)
Hill
ú Eating
(p116)
26 D-Mop ....................................C4
Shell St
5 Bella Vita ................................B5
27 G.O.D. ..................................... A5
Citysuper......................(see 30)
In Square ..................... (see 25)
6 Farm House ...........................B5
28 Island Beverley......................B4
Mercury St
7 Fiat Caffe................................A5
Lane Crawford ............(see 30)
2
8 Forum .....................................A4
29 Peoples' Recreation
Wing Hing St
9 Ho Hung Kee..........................A5
Community......................... A5
# 13
ú
10 Hong Kee Congee Shop .......E5
30 Times Square ........................ A5
11 IR 1968 ...................................A5
31 Yiu Fung Store ...................... B5
12 Iroha........................................B5
Lau Li St
Irori ...............................(see 22) Ø Sports & Activities
(p126)
Yacht St
13 Kin's Kitchen..........................E2
32 South China Athletic
3
14 Manor Seafood
Association.........................C6
Restaurant ..........................A4
33 Towngas Cooking Centre .... A5
15 Pumpernickel ........................B3
æ4
#
16 Sushi Fuku-suke .................. B4 ÿ Sleeping
(p269)
¡
# Tin Hau
17 Tai Ping Koon ........................B5
34 Alisan Guest House ..............B4
18 West Villa ...............................B5
35 Causeway Corner .................A4
19 Yu ............................................A5
36 Chung Kiu Inn........................B4
ÿ
# 40
37 Holiday Inn Express.............. A5
4 û Drinking & Nightlife
(p122)
38 J Plus ......................................C5
20 Dickens Bar ...........................B3
39 Lanson Place .........................C5
21 East End Brewery & Inn
40 Metropark Hotel ................... E4
Side Out ..............................B5
41 Newton Hotel Hong Kong.....E1
22 Executive Bar ........................A5
42 Park Lane Hong Kong ..........C4
o
Explode......................... (see 12)
43 Regal Hongkong Hotel .........C5
gL
Tun
Ú
#1
23 Oriental Sake Bar Yu-Zen ....A4
44 Shama .................................... A5
mple Rd

Tin
Hau
Te

a n Rd

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Wu

t

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ha

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un

5

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1

1

1

1

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1

1

1
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ise
1
1

1

1

ÿ Sleeping
(p273)
11 Boat Moksha .............................................. E4

Ø Sports & Activities
(p134)
9 Aberdeen Boat Club .................................. E4
10 Aberdeen Marina Club .............................. E4

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

#
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ABERDEEN

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1

1

1

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4

3

1

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1

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Country Park

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3

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Tunnel
(1.6km)
Wong
Chuk H
ang Rd
7#
ú
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1

500 m
0.25 miles

E

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Country
Park

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&
1

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S
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To The 8th Estate Winery &
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AP LEI
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L

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Market

1
1
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1
1
1
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Centre
ò
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ì
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f
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to Ap
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‚

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Pe
el
R

ú Eating
(p132) 1 1 1 1 1
5 Aberdeen Fish Market Canteen ............... A2 1 1 1 1 1 1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
6 Ap Lei Chau Market Cooked Food
Chinese
1
1
1
1
1
Center....................................................... B4 1 1 1 Cemetery
1
1
1
7 Chef Studio ................................................. E2 1 1 1 1 1
1 To
1Kennedy
1
1
1
1
1 (5.5km)
1
1
1
8 Jumbo Kingdom Floating Restaurant ..... D4 2 1Town
1
1
1
1
1
to1
Top Deck ..............................................(see 8) 1 1 1 Boats
1
1

1

æ Sights
(p129)
1 Private Sampans........................................ B3
2 Sampan tours............................................. A3
3 Shrines ........................................................ C3 11
4 Tin Hau Temple.......................................... B2 1

Aberde

n Rese

rd e e

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Old Main St
Aberdeen Main Rd

‚

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Aberdeen (9.5km)

M
ain St

W on g

Ma
Ko
D

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n

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# Stanley

Minibuses to
›
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Link Rd
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gT
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›
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ñ
#

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4444
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STANLEY

STANLEY

10
#5
æ
#
Stanley M û
ain S
t

Stanley
Bay

To Stanley Military Cemetery;
St Stephen's Beach &
Water Sports Centre (200m);
Ferry Pier for Boats to
Aberdeen & Po Toi (550m);
Stanley Fort (1.8km)
B

Rd
ea
ch

St
an
ley
B

‚

2

3

4

A

E

E

#1
â

4

3

2

1

200 m
0.1 miles

To Stanley Prison
(200m)

‚

St
ew

ley
N

St
an

æ Sights

(p130)

Museum ................................................... E4

1 Hong Kong Correctional Services

2 Murray House............................................. A3

3 Old Stanley Police Station ........................ C3

5 Tai Wong Shrine......................................... A2

4 St Stephen’s College’s Heritage Trail ..... D4

6 Tin Hau Temple .......................................... A2

ú Eating
(p133)
7 Lucy's .......................................................... B3

8 Saffron Bakery Café .................................. A2

9 Sei Yik .......................................................... B2

û Drinking & Nightlife
(p133)
10 Smugglers Inn ............................................ B2

þ Shopping
(p134)
11 Stanley Market........................................... C3

378
C

Nathan Rd

Pilkem St

Parkes St

Austin Rd

# 39
ÿ

Austin Rd West

18 24

û
#
ú #

›
# Cross-Border

Kowloon Park
Swimming
Complex

Coach Terminus

ô
#

ã
#

2

11

æ
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36 þ

#
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3
23

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#
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44
#
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3

# 48
ÿ

ô
#

35

þ
#

Arirang
Kowloon
Park

To Mainland

China
‚
# China Ferry
f
Terminal
‚To Central (1.5km)

9

æ
#

16

Kowloon Mosque
& Islamic Centre

#
ú
Haiphong Road
Temporary
Market

6

þ
#

27

#
û

þ
#

#
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13

41

#
ú

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û 21 Eternal East Cross
þ
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›
#

#
ï

42

Border Coach
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#
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æ
#2

æ
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â
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‚

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A

To Wan Chai (1km)

B

#
ÿ

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38 Ø

æ
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# Peninsula
#
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.
#
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#
ú
19
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#
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æ
#4
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#
#
33 þ
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Salisbury Rd
26
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Star Ferry ›
#
â
#8
Bus Terminal

Kowloon
Star Ferry
# HKTB Centre
Pier f

To Central (800m)

#
32 þ

Hankow Rd

Ocean Terminal
þ
# 30

Haiphong Rd
Lock Rd

r

Rd

# 47
ÿ

.
#

#
ÿ

46

ú
20 #
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37 Ø
TSIM SHA
29
22 TSUI 34 þ
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31

Ocean
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5

n
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.
#

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15

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D
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#
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CITY

#
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#
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4

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Temple St

1

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Kwun Chung St

See map
p382

e
# 00
Woosung St

i
j
B

A

C

D

37 9
E

æ Sights
(p142)
The One Broadway
1 Fook Tak Ancient
Cinema...................... (see 35)
Temple ............................... C4
UA iSquare .................. (see 29)
2 Former KCR Clock
1
Tower.................................. C6 þ Shopping
(p159)
3 Former Kowloon British
26 Chinese Arts & Crafts ..........C6
School................................. D2
27 Curio Alley .............................D4
Hillwood Rd
4 Former Marine Police
28 David Chan Photo Shop....... E3
Headquarters .................... C6
I.T. ..................................(see 14)
7
Hong Kong Antiquities &
29 iSquare...................................D4
æ
#
Monuments Office ..... (see 3) 30 Lane Crawford ......................B6
)
ate
r iv
2
5 Hong Kong Cultural
31 Page One ...............................C5
(P
d
R
Centre................................. C6
32 Premier Jewellery.................D5
t o ry
Obse r va
ce
6 Hong Kong Museum of
Star Computer City .... (see 26)
ford T
#Traveller Knuts
Services
Art ....................................... D6
33 Star House.............................C6
d
rley R
7 Hong Kong Observatory ......E2
34 Swindon Books .....................D4
Kimbe
8 Hong Kong Space
35 The One..................................D3
þ
28 #
t
S
erley
Museum & Theatre........... D6
Venilla Suite................. (see 35)
Kimb
d
9 Kung Fu Corner .................... D3
36 Yue Hwa Chinese
ville R
n
a
r
G
3
10 Peninsula Hong Kong ...........D5
Products
St
11 St Andrew's Anglican
Emporium...........................D2
Fook
u
a
H
Church................................ D2
La See map
n
ro
Ca m e
Ø Sports & Activities
(p163)
d p380
ron R
ú Eating
(p149)
37 Ocean Sky Divers .................D4
C a me
12 Al Molo....................................B5
38 Wing Chun Yip Man
e
s Ave Prat Av
hrey
13 Branto.....................................D5
Martial Arts
H u mp
14 Din Tai Fung.......................... C4
Athletic
H
an
rn
4
Gaddi's ......................... (see 10)
Association.........................D5
Ca
oi
Rd
Golden Bull...................(see 30)
15 Paramita Vegetarian
ÿ Sleeping
(p273)
Mody Rd
House ................................. D4
39 BP International Hotel ......... C1
Mind
en Av
Stables Grill ................... (see 4) 40 Chungking Mansions ...........D5
e
16 Sweet Dynasty ..................... C3
Cosmic Guest House . (see 43)
17 Tak Fat Beef Ball .................. C4
Dragon Inn ...................(see 40)
Signal
T'ang Court ..................(see 47)
Holiday Guesthouse ...(see 40)
Hill
Garden 5
ò
#
18 Typhoon Shelter Hing
41 Hop Inn...................................D5
Kee Restaurant ................. D1
42 Kowloon Hotel Hong
Middle Rd
19 Yé Shanghai...........................C5
Kong ....................................D5
20 Ziafat ..................................... D4
Mei Lam Guesthouse . (see 43)
43 Mirador Mansion ..................D4
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p157)
New Yan Yan
New
21 Aqua Spirit .............................C5
Guesthouse ..............(see 40)
World
22 Ned Kelly's Last Stand ........ C4
Park Guesthouse ........(see 40)
Centre
Salisbury
6 23 Pacific Coffee
Gardens
Peninsula Hong Kong. (see 10)
Company............................ D2 44 Royal Pacific Hotel &
Hotel Inter24 Utopia ..................................... D1
Towers ................................B3
Continental
Vibes.............................(see 48)
45 Salisbury ................................D5
Hong Kong
46 Sealand House ......................D4
ý Entertainment
(p168)
47 The Langham ........................C5
25 Grand Ocean Cinema ...........C5
48 The Mira .................................D3
Hong Kong Cultural
Yan Yan Guest House (see 40)
7
Centre.......................... (see 5)
Tak Shing St

n Rd
ar v o

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vo

ar

Bristol Ave

ll
wa
rn
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p378

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#

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Hong Kong
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#
33 ÿ
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#
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ú
#
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#
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ô
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40

ÿ
#

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#6
æ

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Rd

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#
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6

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World
Centre

#1 #
æ
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ÿ
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7

A

‚ To Central (2km)
B

C

D

our Tunnel
Cross-Harb

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#
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# 34
35
ÿ
#

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#
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39
16
32
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#
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#
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28

w

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Jordan Path

1

Kowloon
Cricket Club
Ground

C

Cheong W
an

B

A

381
E

æ Top Sights
(p137)
Hong Kong Museum of
History.................................B2
Tsim Sha Tsui East
1
Promenade ........................ B6

20 Butler...................................... A5

InterContinental Lobby

Hu ng H

om

ÿ Sleeping
(p273)
28 Butterfly on Prat ...................A4
8
29 Chelsea Hotel........................A4
30 Empire Kowloon....................A3
31 Harbour Plaza Metropolis ... E2
9
32 Hop Inn on Carnarvon .........A4
10
33 Hotel Icon ..............................D3
11
34 Hotel Panorama....................A4
35 Hyatt Regency Tsim Sha
4
12
Tsui ......................................A4
13
36 InterContinental Hong
Kong .................................... A7
14
37 Knutsford Hotel ....................A2
38 Kowloon Shangri-La.............B5
15
39 Lee Garden Guest House ....A4
16
40 Mariner's Club....................... A5
17
41 Minden ................................... A5
5
18
42 Pinnacle Apartment ............. A5
43 Royal Garden.........................C4
44 Stanford Hillview Hotel ........A2
û Drinking & Nightlife
(p158)
45 Star Guest House .................A3
19 Bahama Mama's ...................A2
3

Hong Kong
International
Mail Centre

By

pa

ss

6

7

E

7 Chicken HOF & Soju

Korean.................................B2
Ching Yan Lee Chiu Chow
Restaurant .........................A3
Dong Lai Shun .............(see 43)
Fook Lam Moon ....................A2
Good Satay ........................... B4
Kimberley Chinese
Restaurant ..........................A3
Lei Garden............................. B4
Mandarin Chicken Rice ........A2
Sabatini ........................(see 43)
Spring Deer............................A5
Steak House ................(see 36)
Tai Ping Koon ........................A3
Tandoori Nights ...................A4
Woodlands .............................B5
Yoga Interactive
Vegetarian ..........................A2

HUNG HOM

0
0
Lounge ...................... (see 36)
0
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
0
0
00
00
00
00
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21 King Ludwig Beer Hall ..........A6
0
0
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0
0
0
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0
0
0
0
0
HUNG
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
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Tapas Bar .................... (see 38)
0
HOM
0
00
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00
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Metropolis
æ Sights
(p142) ý Entertainment
(p158)
0
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1 Avenue of the Stars ..............A6
22 Dada .......................................A2
æ0
#
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0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
00
00
0
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0
0
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2 Blackhead Point Tower ........A5
23 Hong Kong Coliseum ........... E2
Hung
0
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0
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3 Hong Kong Science
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
Museum ............................. C3 þ Shopping
(p159)
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
00
0
0
0
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0
0
0
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w2 4 Middle Road Children's
24 Granville Rd ........................... A3
0
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Playground .........................A6
25 Initial.......................................A3
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5 Rosary Church ......................B2
26 K11...........................................A4
0
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6 Tsim Sha Tsui East
27 Rise Shopping Arcade .........A3
0
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Garden.................................B5 Ø Sports & Activities
(p163)
0
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0
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(p149)

382

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0.2 miles

4

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#
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Map Publications

3

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ÿ
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Temple Street ÿ
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0
0
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0
0
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p378

King's
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15

19
Temple Street
ÿ
#
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Hospital
10
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1

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St
Tung On

w

1

HOI FU
COURT

4

D

æ Top Sights
(p139) û Drinking & Nightlife (p158) ÿ Sleeping
(p273)
Temple Street Night
9 Boo.................................. D4
19 Booth Lodge .................. D2
Market ......................... C2
10 Fullcup Café....................C1
20 Caritas Bianchi
Temple Street Night
Ozone ................... (see 30)
Lodge........................... D2
Market ......................... C3
11 Snake King Yan ............. C4
21 Casa Hotel...................... C2
22 Cityview...........................D1
æ Sights
(p146) ý Entertainment
(p158)
23 Dorsett Seaview
1 Bruce Lee Club...............C1
12 Broadway
Hotel ............................ C2
2 Hong Kong International
Cinematheque............ C2
24 Eaton Smart................... D3
Hobby & Toy
25 Golden Island
Museum ...................... C2 þ Shopping
(p160)
Guesthouse ................ C3
3 Jade Market................... C3
Bruce Lee Club ....... (see 1)
Hakka's Guest
Red Brick House ....(see 7)
13 Chan Wah Kee Cutlery
House ................ (see 28)
4 Sino Centre.....................C1
Store ............................ C4
26 Madera Hong Kong ...... D4
5 Tin Hau Temple ............. C3
14 Elements ........................ A3
27 Nathan Hotel ................. D3
6 Wholesale Fruit Market C2
15 Protrek ........................... C2
28 New Lucky House ......... D4
7 Yau Ma Tei Theatre....... C2
16 Tak Hing Dried SeafoodC3
29 Novotel ........................... D3
17 Yue Hwa Chinese
30 Ritz-Carlton Hong
ú Eating
(p154)
Products Emporium .. C4
Kong............................. A3
Kowloon Tang....... (see 14)
31 W Hong Kong................. A3
Lei Garden............. (see 14) Ø Sports & Activities (p163)
Ying Pin................. (see 28)
Mido Cafe............. (see 23)
18 King's Park Tennis
8 Tai Ping Koon ................ D3
Courts.......................... D2

1

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æ Sights
(p147)
1 C&G Artpartment ...................................... B2

2 Flower Market .............................................C1

3 Lui Seng Chun .............................................A1

4 Tung Choi St Market ................................. C4

(p154)

5 Yuen Po St Bird Garden .............................D1

ú Eating

7 China Cafe .................................................. A4

6 Canton Rd ................................................... A4

8 Good Hope Noodle .................................... C3

9 Lei Garden................................................... C3

10 One Dim Sum ..............................................B1

þ Shopping
(p160)
11 Hong Kong Reader .................................... B4
12 Langham Place Mall .................................. B4
13 Mong Kok Computer Centre .................... C4
14 Sin Tat Plaza............................................... C4
Tung Choi St Market ..........................(see 4)
Venilla Suite....................................... (see 12)

(p273)

Ø Sports & Activities
(p163)
15 South China Sea Collective ...................... B2

ÿ Sleeping

17 Caritas Lodge .............................................. E1

16 Anne Black Guest House .......................... E4

18 Langham Place Hotel ................................ B4

21 Sunny Day Hotel ........................................ A4

19 Nic & Trig's ................................................. A2
20 Royal Plaza Hotel ....................................... D2

t
Ferry S

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t

Our Story

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and
Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook
should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Our Writers
Piera Chen
Coordinating Author, Central, Wan Chai & the Northeast, Kowloon, Macau
Born to a Shanghainese father and a Pekingese mother in Hong Kong, Piera is a
writer, editor and translator who divides her time between Hong Kong, Běijīng,
Vancouver and various exotic holiday destinations, real and imagined. She is an
avid traveller, a devoted mother and a passionate collector of life experiences.
Piera coauthored the previous edition of this book, as well as Lonely Planet’s
Hong Kong Encounter and China guidebooks. While researching for this edition, one of her
greatest joys was constantly challenging herself to see familiar landscapes with borrowed eyes.
Besides the chapters listed above, she also wrote Macau’s History & Culture and the Survival
Guide, and cowrote the Plan Your Trip section.
Read more about Piera Chen at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/PieraChen

Chung Wah Chow
The Peak & the Northwest, Aberdeen & the South, New Territories, Outlying Islands, Day Trips Chung Wah enjoys exploring every nook and cranny
both in her hometown of Hong Kong and elsewhere. With an advanced degree in
translation studies, an insatiable travel lust and an affinity with obscure words
and sounds, Chung Wah merged her talents by becoming a travel writer. She
contributed to the previous two editions of this book and coauthored Lonely
Planet’s China. For this edition of Hong Kong, she also wrote the Understand chapters and
cowrote the Plan Your Trip section.
Read more about Chung Wah Chow at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/cwchow

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
15th edition – Jan 2013
the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 850 0
mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
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20

Top Itineraries
=

Day One

Day Two

The Peak & the Northwest (p82)

Wan Chai & the Northeast (p104)

Catch the legendary Peak Tram up to
Victoria Peak for stunning views of
the city. Then descend and walk to Sheung
Wan, checking out the shopping options
along the way. Stop at Man Mo Temple for
a taste of history and explore the burgeoning
community on Tai Ping Shan Street.

(man-made) nature at the
M Embrace
lovely Hong Kong Park, then head

M

Lunch Hollywood Rd (p90) is bursting
at the seams with restaurants.

Kowloon (p135)
Take the Star Ferry to Kowloon.
Enjoy the views along Tsim Sha Tsui
East Promenade and savour your stroll to
the Museum of History for some context to
your day’s impressions.

R

Dinner Yè Shanghai (p154) serves modern, delicious Shanghainese cuisine.

The Peak & the Northwest (p82)
After dinner in Tsim Sha Tsui, take

N the metro to Soho for drinks and

dancing.

over to Queen’s Rd East to explore the sights
and streets of old Wan Chai. Tram it to
Causeway Bay for homewares gift shopping
at G.O.D.
Lunch Irori (p116) is fabulously
Japanese.

Kowloon (p135)
Browse for souvenirs at Chinese

R Arts & Crafts. Then relax and

people-watch at Middle Road Children’s
Playground, before taking afternoon tea in
style at the Peninsula. Bus it north to Yau
Ma Tei, where you can check out the Tin
Hau Temple, Jade Market and traditional
shops along Shanghai Street.
Dinner Temple Street Night Market
(p142) for cheap food under the stars.

Kowloon (p135)
Have your fortune told and catch

N some Cantonese opera at Temple

Street Night Market.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Day Four

Aberdeen & the South (p127 )

Kowloon (p135)

Bus it to Aberdeen for a cruise on
the charming Aberdeen Harbour,
then head over to Ap Lei Chau to check
out the indoor wet market in the old
town. Follow with shopping (for bargain
designer furniture and clothing) at Horizon Plaza and a late lunch inside a spacious and attractive furniture shop.

your fourth day with a taichi
M Start
class by the Tsim Sha Tsui water-

M

Lunch Tree Cafe (p132) for salads,
sandwiches and coffee.

Kowloon (p135)
Spend the rest of the afternoon and
early evening admiring temples in
New Kowloon: the Taoist Sik Sik Yuen
Wong Tai Sin Temple and the Buddhist
Chi Lin Nunnery.

R

Dinner Chi Lin Vegetarian (p156) for
tasty Chinese vegetarian.

Kowloon (p135)
Still in New Kowloon, head to the

N Ritz Carlton for stellar drinks at

Ozone, the world’s highest bar, then, beset
with the munchies, indulge in late-night
dim sum at One Dim Sum.

front. Boats to Macau are just around the
corner at the China Ferry Terminal –
why not hop aboard?
Lunch Clube Militar de Macau (p246)
for great Portuguese wining and dining.

Macau (p232)
Explore the sights around the

R Largo do Senado. Walk along Rua

Central through much of the Unesco-listed
Historic Centre of Macau, including
the ruins of the Church of St Paul. Shop
for souvenirs at Macau Creations at the
foot of the steps. Then cab it to Northern
Macau Peninsula to stroll among the
designer shops and historic sites in the
atmospheric St Lazarus District.
Dinner António (p258) dishes up
sumptuous Portuguese classics.

Macau (p232)
Make your way back to the Macau

N Peninsula to play the tables or sip

cocktails at MGM Grand Macau before
catching the ferry back to Hong Kong.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use,
access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair
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our content.’

PL AN YOUR TRIP TO P I T I N E R A R I E S

Day Three

21