How to Calculate the CM

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How to calculate the CM (Cost of Making) of a Garment
Calculation of cm is a important part of merchandising profile. At costing meeting
stage, supplier only gets one sample of the garment and specification of fabric and
trims for the reference.
So its really important to calculate the correct cost of making to get the correct
costing.
This post will help you all to calculate the COST OF MAKING.
To find out the CM of a garment, you must know below:

i) Monthly total expenditure (running cost) of factory (rent, wages, electricity bill,
water bill, transportation, repairing etc).
ii) Total no of machines in the factory
iii) Number of machine required to complete this style (line layout of style)
iv) Estimated Production output per hour
v) Total working days (month)
vi) Daily working hours
Calculation Of CM:
For Example:Monthly Cost of Running:- 25,00,000 INR
Total no of Machines

:- 500

No of machines required for style: - 45
Estimated Production output per hour: - 55
Total Working days :-26
Daily working hours :-8
= {(Monthly total cost of running / 26) / (Total Machines) X (Number of machine
required for style)} / [{(estimated Production output per hr) X 8 } ]
= [{(25,00,000 / 26) / ( 500 ) X (45)} / {(55) X 8}]
= [{96153.85 / (500) X (45) } / 440]

= (8653.85 / 440)
= 19.67 INR Per pcs.

Calculating Embroidery Thread Consumption

Calculating thread consumption is a important part of cost calculation and garment
manufacturing. In our earlier post we have written about garment sewing thread
calculation. Second impartment area is embroidery thread calculation which we will
review here. Embroidery thread calculation depends of some parameters like stitch
type, thread type, no of colors, no of stitches in design.
Generally Embroidery machines work with stitch type 301, the lock-stitch. With the
optimal adjustments of all the parameters it should amount to a shared proportion
of 2/3 needle thread and 1/3 bobbin thread. On average the thread usage can be
calculated as seen below
per 1.000 stitches
2,3 m

needle thread

4,6 m

bobbin thread

Example of Embroidery Thread Calculation :Number of Pcs – 4,000 pcs
Stitch qty in the embroidery design – 4,500 (stitch) ( how to estimate the stitch
amount of an embroidery design?)
Length of thread in the cones – 5,000 meter
Stitch length – 4 mm (stitch length depends on design and stitch type)

Calculation:
= Number of Garments qty X Number of stitch X 4 / 1000 / meter per cone.

= 4,000 X 4,500 X 4 / 1,000 / 5,000
= 18,000,000 X 4 / 1,000 / 5,000

= 72,000,000 / 1,000 / 5,000

= 72,000 / 5,000

=14.4 cones
Estimate the stitch amount of an embroidery design
Generally the usage of thread per design and colour of a digitized pattern is to be
seen on the plot. If there are no details available it is also possible to estimate the
thread´s approximate usage.
Embroidery machines work with stitch type 301, the lock-stitch. With the optimal
adjustments of all the parameters it should amount to a shared proportion of 2/3
needle thread and 1/3 bobbin thread. On average the thread usage can be
calculated as seen below:

per 1.000 stitches
2,3 m

needle thread

4,6 m

bobbin thread

No of stitch possible with a thread of ticket no. 40

1.000 m spool
5.000 m spool

approx. 200.000 stitches*
approx. 1 million stitches*

*Taken from an average stitch length of 4 mm

The thread usage depends on following parameters and varies accordingly:

Thread tension
Stitch length
Fabric thickness

Number of stitches or machine running time
Ticket number

How to estimate the stitch amount of an embroidery design, even before having
digitized the pattern?

The estimate value of per square centimeter embroidered surface for embroidery
ticket 40 (tex 27) is 150 stitches. Depending on richness of detail you can use a
lower or higher value.

For calculating the embroidered surface, you need the dimensions of the design
(length x width) and an estimation of how many percent of that surface is covered
by the embroidery stitches.

Example:

:
80 x 80 mm
Size: 8 x 8 cm = 64 cm²

There from 80 % embroidered (visual estimation)

64 cm² x 0,8 = 51,2 cm²

51.2 cm² x 150 stitches/cm² = 7680 stitches
Consumption Calculation of Woven Garments
Consumption and costing is a primary requisite for a merchandiser. Fabric cost
bears aprox 40% to 45% of the total cost of any garments so calculation of correct
fabric consumption is very important.
Pls see below example of fabric consumption calculation

1. During the consumption pls used measurement of middle size for calculation or
used the size which has most of the qty.
2. Except Cutting or sewing wastage, fabric wastage also depends on additional
elements which. If the garments have special print, wash, embellishment etc than
the fabric wastage will be more than normal wastage
3. You should know the fabric width to calculate consumption.
Measuring Point

Msmnt in inch

Body Length @ C.B. neck

32”

Chest circumf.

44 ½”

Across shoulder width seam to seam

19”

Bk Yoke height FM HPS

3 ½”

Sleeve length fm CBN thru sh to slv edge(3 pt) 34 ½”
Armhole ( Straight, point to point )

9 ½”

Sleeve bottom opening circ.@ cntr btn

9”

Cuff height

2 ½”

Neck circumf. closed(cntr bttn to BH end
stitching)

16 ¼”

Collar height at CB (without neck band)

1 7/8”

Chest Pkt Width @ top

5”

Chest Pkt Length @ center

5 ¾”

FABRIC CONSUMPTION

PARTS

LENGTH
WIDTH (With
(With sewing sewing
FABRIC
allowance)
allowance)

Back (*Except
yoke)

30 ½”

24 ¼”

0.46693 yds

Front

34”

26 ¼”

0.56323 yds

Yoke

21

4 ½”

0.11932 yds

Collar

17 ¼”

5 ¾”

0.12524 yds

Slv(**Width=armho
22 ½”
le straight X 2)

20”

0.56818 yds
(2 Slv)

Pocket

5”

5 ¾”

0.03630 yds

Cuff

10”

3 ½”

0.04419 yds

Total (Pc)

1.92339 yds/pc

Total (Dzn)

23.0806
yds/dzn

Formula

={(L x W)/(36 x
44)}

Fabric width is 44 inch.
To convert inch to yard inch X 36
Calculate the consumption of knit garments
Consumption and costing is a primary requisite for a merchandiser. Fabric cost
bears aprox 40% to 45% of the total cost of any garments so calculation of correct
fabric consumption is very important.
Pls see below example of fabric consumption calculation
1. During the consumption pls used measurement of middle size for calculation or
used the size which has most of the qty.

2. Except Cutting or sewing wastage, fabric wastage also depends on additional
elements which. If the garments have special print, wash, embellishment etc than
the fabric wastage will be more than normal wastage

Description

Msmnt (cm)

Sewing Allowance Total

Body Length

60

5

65

½ Chest

45

2

47

Sleeve Length

20

5

25

Armhole Circum

40

2

42

Fabric Wastage

10%

Depend on style and fabric

GSM

140

Consider the measurement of middle size garment or the garment containing
maximum quantity.
Consumption:
Fabric Consumption Calculation of a Knit TShirt

Length Width

Consumption in
SCM

65

47

3,055 scm

65

47

3,055 scm

25

42

2,100 scm

Back Part
65 cm ( length) x 47 cm ( Chest width)
Front Part
65 cm ( Front length) x 47 cm ( Front chest
width)
Sleeve
25 cm ( Sleeve length) x 42 cm ( Armhole
circumference) x 2 ( 2 sleeves)
Total Fabrics Consumption

8,210 scm/pc

Apply below formula to make consumption for 1dzn garments :
=(Fabric consumption in SCM X GSM X 12 / 10,000,000) + Wastage
=(8210 X 140 X 12 / 10,000,000) + 10%
=1.37928+10%
=1.37928+0.137928
=1.5172208 KG/DZN
or

Description

Consumptio
n in
SCM/pcs

9600 scm into sm. (10000 scm=1sm)

0.821 sm/pc

Fabric is 140gsm, (1sm=140gram). So 0.821
sm=0.821x140=

114.94
gram/pc

We know 1,000gram=1kg. So 114.94
gram=114.94/1,000=

0.1,149
kg/pc

Wastage 10%

0.01149 kg

Total Weight with wastage

0.12639
kg/pc

Therefore, Weight of 1dzn (12 Pcs)

1.517 Kg/Dzn

Note:
scm=square centimeter
sm=square meter
1dozen (12pcs) garments
*Why 10,000,000?
10,000 x 1,000=10,000,000
Grams per square meter. Conversion of the fabric into square meter. 1m=100cm,
1sqr meter=10,000 cm (100cm x 100cm),
1 Kg=1,000 Gram.

Dress shirt

N
o.

Process

Seam
Structure

Model

Sew brand label to under yoke

AMS-210EN-SS1306
DDL-9000B
DDL-9000B-DS/PBN
DDL-8700B-7
DDL-8700-7/SC920C/M92
DDL-8700

Runstitch cuff

DLM-5200N
DLM-5400N-7
DMN-5420N-7
MO-6916S
MO-6716S

Attach sleeve
MH-380
MO-6716DA
Counterstich sleeve

DDL-9000B
DDL-9000B-DS/PBN
DLU-5490N
MH-380
MH-481
DDL-8700B-7

DDL-8700-7/SC920C/M92
DDL-8700

Sew front fly to left front

LH-3528A-7 LH-3528
LH-4128

Sew button on front

MB-1800
MB-1377
LK-1903B

Sew pocket

DDL-9000B
DDL-9000B-DS/PBN
DDL-8700B-7
DDL-8700-7/SC920C/M92
DDL-8700

Sew buttonhole on front

AC-172N-1790
LBH-1790A
LBH-781

Sew cuff links

LK-1903B
MB-1800
MB-1377

Sew buttonhole of cuff links

LBH-1790A
LBH-780

Sew side & under sleeve

MS-1190F-V046
MO-6916S
MO-6716S
MO-6716DA
MH-481

Sew yoke to back

DDL-9000B
DDL-9000B-DS/PBN
DDL-8700B-7
DDL-8700-7/SC920C/M92
DDL-8700

Runstitch collar

DLM-5200N
DLM-5400N-7
DMN-5420N-7

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LECTRA: Imperial adopts Lectra Fashion PLM

LECTRA:
Imperial adopts Lectra Fashion PLM
The Italian fast fashion company chose Lectra Fashion PLM to support its global
business strategy
Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries
using soft materials-fabrics, leather, technical textiles and composite materials-is
pleased to announce that Imperial is implementing Lectra Fashion PLM to reinforce
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strategy.

Founded in Bologna, Italy, in 1978 by Adriano Aere and Emilia Giberti, Imperial
provides menswear and womenswear to 4,000 customers across the world,
including Italy, Europe and Asia. The company, which delivers 6 million pieces per
year, decided to expand its activities in 2012 and invested in 80 multi-brand stores.
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Lectra's on-going support and fashion expertise, in addition to the long-term
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they are developing for the fashion industry," explains Adriano Aere.

About Imperial

Imperial is an Italian company founded in 1978. First specialized in menswear and
womenswear, the ready-to-wear brand has expanded its activities to include retail
in 2012. Imperial S.p.A increased its turnover with EURO119 million in 2012
revenue.

For more information, please visit www.imperialfashion.com.

About Lectra

Lectra is the world leader in integrated technology solutions that automate,
streamline and accelerate product design, development and manufacturing
processes for industries using soft materials. Lectra develops the most advanced
specialized software and cutting systems and provides associated services to a
broad array of markets including fashion (apparel, accessories, footwear),
automotive (car seats and interiors, airbags), furniture, as well as a wide variety of
other market sectors, such as aeronautical and marine industries, wind power, and
personal protective equipment. Lectra serves 23,000 customers in more than 100
countries with 1,400 employees and $270 million in 2013 revenues. The company is
listed on NYSE Euronext.

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