How to lay laminated flooring
Content
.co.uk
HOW TO:
Lay a Laminate floor
Introduction
This 'How to' describes how to lay a laminate floor. It tells you how to prepare your subfloor, which underlays you'll need, how to get the crucial first and last rows right, and how to finish your new floor off to perfection. The important thing to remember in laying your new floor is that laminate boards are made of organic materials. They will therefore expand and contract with heat and moisture. To allow for this, you need to leave an expansion gap of between 9mm and 15mm around all outside edges of your new floor (figs. 1, 2).
What you’ll need
Materials
Acrylic flexible sealant Door threshold strips Felting paper – for carpet subfloor Fibre underlay boards 4–6mm thick Foam underlay Laminate floorboards Polythene damp-proof membrane 0.2mm thick Water-resistant PVA adhesive
Tools & equipment
Chalk line Claw hammer – 16oz/20oz Clean rag Craft knife Combination try square Draw bar Electric drill and sharp bits Electric jigsaw or coping saw Fine hard tooth panel saw Firmer chisel – 6mm Hitting block Knee pads Mallet Pencil Sealant gun Steel measuring tape Wedges or spacer blocks
About laminate floors
A laminate floor consists of laminate boards glued together at the tongue-and-groove edges. It's a 'floating floor', meaning that the boards are not attached to your subfloor. An underlay goes between the subfloor and the laminate floor to insulate for warmth and against noise (figs. 3, 4). Laminate boards are sold in packs. Different manufacturers offer different sizes and wood-effect finishes, so check packs for suitability, area covered, and any special instructions.
fig. 1
How many packs of boards?
First measure the length and width of your room, including areas such as the thresholds of doorways. Multiply the length by the width to give the room's total area. If the room has a large obstruction, such as a chimney breast, deduct its area from the total (fig. 5).
fig. 2
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
What you’ll need (cont.)
Example 3.2m x 2.9m = 9.28m2 1.25m x 0.32m = 0.04m2 Total floor space = 9.24m2 Now divide the total floor space by the area that each pack of laminate boards covers. If for example. one pack covers 2.25m2: 9.24m2 ÷ 2.25m2 = 4.106 packs You will need to buy five packs.
fig. 3
Types of underlay
• 0.2mm thick polythene sheet Moisture barrier for concrete, cement screed or bitumen subfloor (fig. 4) • Foam underlay Heating and sound insulation for wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet, cork, vinyl, rubber and linoleum subfloors (fig. 4) • Fibre boards 4–6mm Added insulation or to enable laminate boards to be laid parallel to existing floor boards (fig. 3) • Felting or underlay paper For a carpet subfloor
fig. 4
Before you begin
Is a laminate floor right for you?
• Some flats and maisonettes have strict regulations about floor coverings. Check that your lease or tenancy agreement allows laminate flooring. • Some laminate flooring is unsuitable for heavy use areas, kitchens or conservatories. • Most laminate flooring is unsuitable for wet areas, saunas, bathrooms or shower rooms. • Some laminate flooring is unsuitable if you have underfloor heating. Check with the manufacturer before you go any further. • You can lay a laminate floor on top of concrete, cement screeds, bitumen, wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet, vinyl, rubber or linoleum. • You can lay a laminate floor on top of cork, as long as the cork is stuck to wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet, vinyl, rubber or linoleum. You'll need to remove the cork if it's stuck to a concrete, cement screed or bitumen subfloor. • You can lay a laminate floor on top of carpet, as long as the carpet and its underlay are less than 7mm thick and they're laid on top of wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet, vinyl, rubber or linoleum. You'll need to remove the carpet if it's thicker than 7mm or if it's laid on a concrete, cement screed or bitumen subfloor.
fig. 6 fig. 5
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Before you begin (cont.)
Acclimatise your boards
Allow your boards to acclimatise to the room where you'll lay them. Leave the unopened packs in the room, well away from walls and radiators, for at least forty hours before you start. The room should have an average temperature of 18˚C.
Remove skirting boards
Lay your new floor under your existing skirting boards. Just remove the skirting before you start and replace it when your floor is finished (fig. 1). Check first that the skirting is wide enough to cover the 9–15mm expansion gap. Alternatively, lay the new floor up to the skirting and cover the expansion gap with a moulding (fig. 2).
fig. 7
Shorten doors
If laying laminate boards will raise the level of your floor, you may need to shorten your doors. To check, place a board with its underlay against the door. If the door will be blocked, mark the thickness of the board against the door, allowing also for the thickness of a threshold strip and adding 2–3mm for easy opening (fig. 6). Remove the door, cut off the bottom strip with a fine-tooth saw, and finish with glass paper. For more information, see How To: fit a door
fig. 8
Complete plumbing or electrical works
Are you planning any changes to your under-floor plumbing or electrical installations? If so, be sure to complete these before laying your new floor.
Preparing your subfloor
Your subfloor must be dry, level and smooth. A variation of up to 3mm over 2m is acceptable.
Concrete, cement screeds, bitumen
Grind off or fill any highs or hollows. If your subfloor is very uneven, use a self-levelling screed. A concrete subfloor must have an integral damp-proof membrane and it must be completely dry (fig. 4). For new concrete allow at least these drying times before laying your new floor: Thickness of concrete 50mm 75mm 100mm Minimum drying time 2 months 4 months 6 months
fig. 9
fig. 10
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Preparing your sub floor (cont.)
Wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet
Plane or sand off any unevenness. Screw down any loose floorboards, taking care not to screw into pipes or cables underneath.
Cork, carpet
Remove the cork or carpet if it's stuck to a concrete, cement screed or bitumen subfloor. Also remove any carpet over 7mm thick.
fig. 11
Fitting your underlay
Sweep and hoover the floor before fitting the underlay. Any rubbish left under the new floor will spoil your good work by making the floor uneven and noisy
Concrete, cement screeds, bitumen
Cover the floor with an 0.2mm thick polythene sheet. Joins must overlap by at least 20cm. The sheet should extend beyond the floor and up the walls by about 2.5cm. Trim off the excess before fixing your skirtings or mouldings (fig. 4). Lay a layer of foam underlay on top of the polythene.
Wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet
Use either foam underlay or 4–6mm fibre boards. If you're laying on floorboards and need to lay your laminate boards in the same direction, fit 4–6mm fibre underlay boards at 45˚ to the existing subfloor boards (fig. 3).
fig. 12
Vinyl, rubber, linoleum, cork
Use foam underlay. If the vinyl, rubber or linoleum is stuck to a concrete floor and any signs of damp are apparent, use polythene sheets as well.
Carpet
There's no need for foam underlay if you're laying laminate boards on top of carpet, but do use felting or underlay paper between boards and carpet to prevent them sticking together.
fig. 13
Preparing your first row
1. Choose the direction
Floorboards look best when the light falls along the length of the board (fig. 7). If you're laying on floorboards, lay your laminate boards at 90˚ to the existing floorboards (figs. 1, 2). If you have to lay the laminate boards in the same direction, first fit 4–6mm fibre underlay boards at 45˚ to the existing subfloor boards (fig. 3).
2. Dry lay the first row
Lay the boards from left to right, with the tongues towards you and the groove edge to the wall. If your first board has a tongue on the left-hand short edge, cut it off.
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Preparing your first row (cont.)
Without using any adhesive, dry lay the first row of boards. Position spacers along the outside edges to maintain the expansion gap (fig. 8). To ensure your floor has an even colour, lay boards in the order that you take them from the pack. Measuring a board to length You'll almost certainly have to cut a board to the right length to complete your first row. This last section of board must be at least 20cm long (fig. 3). If necessary, shorten the first board in the row to allow more space at the other end. Here's how to measure the last board to length and ensure a perfect fit. Keeping the grain side up, lay your last board on top of the second-last board, turning the board you need to cut so that it's tongue to tongue with the other board. Put a spacer against your end wall, then push the short edge groove of your last board against the spacer (fig. 9). The board to cut, will lie partly on top of the second-last board. Using a combination try square and a marking knife, mark the board where it crosses the board below. Saw along the mark, turn your board back round, and position it in place. Cutting boards Use a hard point handsaw to cut boards (fig. 10). Or use a power saw, cutting from the underside of the board to avoid chipping (fig. 11).
fig. 14
Laying your floor
1. Lay the first row
Place the first board in position, with the long edge groove towards the wall. Set spacers between the wall and the board, along both the long and short edges. Gluing boards Use the PVA adhesive recommended by the manufacturer or supplier of your boards. Apply the glue in a continuous stripe to the groove. Try to avoid leaving gaps, because the wood will swell if water gets between the boards. If glue oozes out as you fix boards, simply wipe it off with a damp cloth. Take the next board, run glue along its end groove (fig. 12) and fit it to the first board. Tap it home using the draw bar and hammer (fig. 13) and wipe off any excess adhesive with a damp cloth. Position spacers and check that the two boards are properly aligned. Continue until the first row is complete, using the draw bar to fix the last board and positioning a spacer at the wall end. Remember that the wall might not be dead straight, so keep checking that the boards are correctly aligned – with each other rather than with the wall.
fig. 16
fig. 15
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Laying your floor (cont.)
Hint Here's how to check the alignment of two boards you've just glued. Take a third board and attach it – groove to tongue, but without gluing – across the join of the boards you've glued, as if it was in the next row. There should be no gaps between the three boards.
2. Lay the second and further rows
If the offcut from the last board in your first row is more than 20cm long, use it to start your second row (figs. 3,14). Make sure that the joins between boards in adjacent rows are also at least 20cm apart (fig. 3). If the joins line up, they will cause a weakness in your new floor. Apply glue to the long edge groove and fix the board to the first row. Tap it home using the block and hammer. As you lay the second and further rows, remember to maintain the expansion gap by placing spacers between the ends of your boards and the wall. Continue laying boards until you reach the last row.
fig. 17
3. Lay the last row
The width of the last board may need to be reduced to fit the gap remaining between the second from last board and the skirting board. Measure the width of your board, less the tongue plus 10mm for the expansion gap. Lay a board on top of the previous row of laid boards. Lay an off-cut on top of the two stacked boards, and butt it up to the skirting board (fig. 15). Remember to put a spacer between the end of the off-cut board and the skirting board. Mark the end of the off-cut on to the top board. Mark this line along the length of the whole board and cut (fig. 10, 11). Using this technique, cut the boards for your last row, glue and fix into place using the draw bar (fig. 13).
fig. 18
4. Finish your floor
fig. 19
When the adhesive is dry, remove the spacers. Fit the skirtings back on, or attach mouldings to cover the expansion gap. Fit threshold strips in the doorway, remembering once again to leave space for expansion.
Dealing with obstructions
Radiator pipes
Measure the centre line of your pipe onto the board using a spacer, combination try-square and pencil (figs. 16, 17, 18). You need to allow an expansion gap around pipes as well, so drill a hole 16mm wider than the diameter of the pipe. If your pipe's diameter is 18mm, for example, drill a 34mm diameter hole (fig. 19).
fig. 20
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Dealing with obstructions (cont.)
If your holes are at the short end of a board, cut across the board (fig. 20). If they're on the long edge, make two cuts at 45˚ and finish with a jigsaw or coping saw (fig. 21). Glue the pieces back behind the pipe and use spacers to hold them in place.
Wooden door frames
Lay an offcut with underlays against the door frame (architrave). Mark the height of this on the bottom of the door frame to indicate the gap needed for your new floor to fit underneath. Lay a hand saw on top of the off-cut with the blade facing the door frame. Carefully saw through the frame, bending the blade of the saw upwards slightly as you work (fig. 22). Alternatively, remove the frame with a chisel and mallet. Remember to leave an expansion gap.
fig. 21
Metal doorframes
Use an offcut of a board less its tongue to backmark around the frame, adding 10mm to allow for the expansion gap. Cut the board and fix it as normal, then fill the gap between the board and the doorframe using acrylic flexible sealant. Masking tape will protect the boards and doorframe as you apply the sealant (fig. 23).
Irregular shaped rooms
fig. 22
Use a chalkline to mark a line at 90˚ to the end wall (fig. 24). Measure up to the point where you have space to fit a whole row and mark this point by fixing a temporary batten to the subfloor. Dry lay the first row against the batten. Still dry laying, use the backmarking technique to mark and cut the boards until the area is filled. Number the boards. Take them up and then lay them again using adhesive. Remember HB to leave an expansion gap.
fig. 23
b
b
fig. 24
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HOW TO:
Lay a Laminate floor
Introduction
This 'How to' describes how to lay a laminate floor. It tells you how to prepare your subfloor, which underlays you'll need, how to get the crucial first and last rows right, and how to finish your new floor off to perfection. The important thing to remember in laying your new floor is that laminate boards are made of organic materials. They will therefore expand and contract with heat and moisture. To allow for this, you need to leave an expansion gap of between 9mm and 15mm around all outside edges of your new floor (figs. 1, 2).
What you’ll need
Materials
Acrylic flexible sealant Door threshold strips Felting paper – for carpet subfloor Fibre underlay boards 4–6mm thick Foam underlay Laminate floorboards Polythene damp-proof membrane 0.2mm thick Water-resistant PVA adhesive
Tools & equipment
Chalk line Claw hammer – 16oz/20oz Clean rag Craft knife Combination try square Draw bar Electric drill and sharp bits Electric jigsaw or coping saw Fine hard tooth panel saw Firmer chisel – 6mm Hitting block Knee pads Mallet Pencil Sealant gun Steel measuring tape Wedges or spacer blocks
About laminate floors
A laminate floor consists of laminate boards glued together at the tongue-and-groove edges. It's a 'floating floor', meaning that the boards are not attached to your subfloor. An underlay goes between the subfloor and the laminate floor to insulate for warmth and against noise (figs. 3, 4). Laminate boards are sold in packs. Different manufacturers offer different sizes and wood-effect finishes, so check packs for suitability, area covered, and any special instructions.
fig. 1
How many packs of boards?
First measure the length and width of your room, including areas such as the thresholds of doorways. Multiply the length by the width to give the room's total area. If the room has a large obstruction, such as a chimney breast, deduct its area from the total (fig. 5).
fig. 2
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
What you’ll need (cont.)
Example 3.2m x 2.9m = 9.28m2 1.25m x 0.32m = 0.04m2 Total floor space = 9.24m2 Now divide the total floor space by the area that each pack of laminate boards covers. If for example. one pack covers 2.25m2: 9.24m2 ÷ 2.25m2 = 4.106 packs You will need to buy five packs.
fig. 3
Types of underlay
• 0.2mm thick polythene sheet Moisture barrier for concrete, cement screed or bitumen subfloor (fig. 4) • Foam underlay Heating and sound insulation for wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet, cork, vinyl, rubber and linoleum subfloors (fig. 4) • Fibre boards 4–6mm Added insulation or to enable laminate boards to be laid parallel to existing floor boards (fig. 3) • Felting or underlay paper For a carpet subfloor
fig. 4
Before you begin
Is a laminate floor right for you?
• Some flats and maisonettes have strict regulations about floor coverings. Check that your lease or tenancy agreement allows laminate flooring. • Some laminate flooring is unsuitable for heavy use areas, kitchens or conservatories. • Most laminate flooring is unsuitable for wet areas, saunas, bathrooms or shower rooms. • Some laminate flooring is unsuitable if you have underfloor heating. Check with the manufacturer before you go any further. • You can lay a laminate floor on top of concrete, cement screeds, bitumen, wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet, vinyl, rubber or linoleum. • You can lay a laminate floor on top of cork, as long as the cork is stuck to wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet, vinyl, rubber or linoleum. You'll need to remove the cork if it's stuck to a concrete, cement screed or bitumen subfloor. • You can lay a laminate floor on top of carpet, as long as the carpet and its underlay are less than 7mm thick and they're laid on top of wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet, vinyl, rubber or linoleum. You'll need to remove the carpet if it's thicker than 7mm or if it's laid on a concrete, cement screed or bitumen subfloor.
fig. 6 fig. 5
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Before you begin (cont.)
Acclimatise your boards
Allow your boards to acclimatise to the room where you'll lay them. Leave the unopened packs in the room, well away from walls and radiators, for at least forty hours before you start. The room should have an average temperature of 18˚C.
Remove skirting boards
Lay your new floor under your existing skirting boards. Just remove the skirting before you start and replace it when your floor is finished (fig. 1). Check first that the skirting is wide enough to cover the 9–15mm expansion gap. Alternatively, lay the new floor up to the skirting and cover the expansion gap with a moulding (fig. 2).
fig. 7
Shorten doors
If laying laminate boards will raise the level of your floor, you may need to shorten your doors. To check, place a board with its underlay against the door. If the door will be blocked, mark the thickness of the board against the door, allowing also for the thickness of a threshold strip and adding 2–3mm for easy opening (fig. 6). Remove the door, cut off the bottom strip with a fine-tooth saw, and finish with glass paper. For more information, see How To: fit a door
fig. 8
Complete plumbing or electrical works
Are you planning any changes to your under-floor plumbing or electrical installations? If so, be sure to complete these before laying your new floor.
Preparing your subfloor
Your subfloor must be dry, level and smooth. A variation of up to 3mm over 2m is acceptable.
Concrete, cement screeds, bitumen
Grind off or fill any highs or hollows. If your subfloor is very uneven, use a self-levelling screed. A concrete subfloor must have an integral damp-proof membrane and it must be completely dry (fig. 4). For new concrete allow at least these drying times before laying your new floor: Thickness of concrete 50mm 75mm 100mm Minimum drying time 2 months 4 months 6 months
fig. 9
fig. 10
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Preparing your sub floor (cont.)
Wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet
Plane or sand off any unevenness. Screw down any loose floorboards, taking care not to screw into pipes or cables underneath.
Cork, carpet
Remove the cork or carpet if it's stuck to a concrete, cement screed or bitumen subfloor. Also remove any carpet over 7mm thick.
fig. 11
Fitting your underlay
Sweep and hoover the floor before fitting the underlay. Any rubbish left under the new floor will spoil your good work by making the floor uneven and noisy
Concrete, cement screeds, bitumen
Cover the floor with an 0.2mm thick polythene sheet. Joins must overlap by at least 20cm. The sheet should extend beyond the floor and up the walls by about 2.5cm. Trim off the excess before fixing your skirtings or mouldings (fig. 4). Lay a layer of foam underlay on top of the polythene.
Wooden floorboards, chipboard, parquet
Use either foam underlay or 4–6mm fibre boards. If you're laying on floorboards and need to lay your laminate boards in the same direction, fit 4–6mm fibre underlay boards at 45˚ to the existing subfloor boards (fig. 3).
fig. 12
Vinyl, rubber, linoleum, cork
Use foam underlay. If the vinyl, rubber or linoleum is stuck to a concrete floor and any signs of damp are apparent, use polythene sheets as well.
Carpet
There's no need for foam underlay if you're laying laminate boards on top of carpet, but do use felting or underlay paper between boards and carpet to prevent them sticking together.
fig. 13
Preparing your first row
1. Choose the direction
Floorboards look best when the light falls along the length of the board (fig. 7). If you're laying on floorboards, lay your laminate boards at 90˚ to the existing floorboards (figs. 1, 2). If you have to lay the laminate boards in the same direction, first fit 4–6mm fibre underlay boards at 45˚ to the existing subfloor boards (fig. 3).
2. Dry lay the first row
Lay the boards from left to right, with the tongues towards you and the groove edge to the wall. If your first board has a tongue on the left-hand short edge, cut it off.
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Preparing your first row (cont.)
Without using any adhesive, dry lay the first row of boards. Position spacers along the outside edges to maintain the expansion gap (fig. 8). To ensure your floor has an even colour, lay boards in the order that you take them from the pack. Measuring a board to length You'll almost certainly have to cut a board to the right length to complete your first row. This last section of board must be at least 20cm long (fig. 3). If necessary, shorten the first board in the row to allow more space at the other end. Here's how to measure the last board to length and ensure a perfect fit. Keeping the grain side up, lay your last board on top of the second-last board, turning the board you need to cut so that it's tongue to tongue with the other board. Put a spacer against your end wall, then push the short edge groove of your last board against the spacer (fig. 9). The board to cut, will lie partly on top of the second-last board. Using a combination try square and a marking knife, mark the board where it crosses the board below. Saw along the mark, turn your board back round, and position it in place. Cutting boards Use a hard point handsaw to cut boards (fig. 10). Or use a power saw, cutting from the underside of the board to avoid chipping (fig. 11).
fig. 14
Laying your floor
1. Lay the first row
Place the first board in position, with the long edge groove towards the wall. Set spacers between the wall and the board, along both the long and short edges. Gluing boards Use the PVA adhesive recommended by the manufacturer or supplier of your boards. Apply the glue in a continuous stripe to the groove. Try to avoid leaving gaps, because the wood will swell if water gets between the boards. If glue oozes out as you fix boards, simply wipe it off with a damp cloth. Take the next board, run glue along its end groove (fig. 12) and fit it to the first board. Tap it home using the draw bar and hammer (fig. 13) and wipe off any excess adhesive with a damp cloth. Position spacers and check that the two boards are properly aligned. Continue until the first row is complete, using the draw bar to fix the last board and positioning a spacer at the wall end. Remember that the wall might not be dead straight, so keep checking that the boards are correctly aligned – with each other rather than with the wall.
fig. 16
fig. 15
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Laying your floor (cont.)
Hint Here's how to check the alignment of two boards you've just glued. Take a third board and attach it – groove to tongue, but without gluing – across the join of the boards you've glued, as if it was in the next row. There should be no gaps between the three boards.
2. Lay the second and further rows
If the offcut from the last board in your first row is more than 20cm long, use it to start your second row (figs. 3,14). Make sure that the joins between boards in adjacent rows are also at least 20cm apart (fig. 3). If the joins line up, they will cause a weakness in your new floor. Apply glue to the long edge groove and fix the board to the first row. Tap it home using the block and hammer. As you lay the second and further rows, remember to maintain the expansion gap by placing spacers between the ends of your boards and the wall. Continue laying boards until you reach the last row.
fig. 17
3. Lay the last row
The width of the last board may need to be reduced to fit the gap remaining between the second from last board and the skirting board. Measure the width of your board, less the tongue plus 10mm for the expansion gap. Lay a board on top of the previous row of laid boards. Lay an off-cut on top of the two stacked boards, and butt it up to the skirting board (fig. 15). Remember to put a spacer between the end of the off-cut board and the skirting board. Mark the end of the off-cut on to the top board. Mark this line along the length of the whole board and cut (fig. 10, 11). Using this technique, cut the boards for your last row, glue and fix into place using the draw bar (fig. 13).
fig. 18
4. Finish your floor
fig. 19
When the adhesive is dry, remove the spacers. Fit the skirtings back on, or attach mouldings to cover the expansion gap. Fit threshold strips in the doorway, remembering once again to leave space for expansion.
Dealing with obstructions
Radiator pipes
Measure the centre line of your pipe onto the board using a spacer, combination try-square and pencil (figs. 16, 17, 18). You need to allow an expansion gap around pipes as well, so drill a hole 16mm wider than the diameter of the pipe. If your pipe's diameter is 18mm, for example, drill a 34mm diameter hole (fig. 19).
fig. 20
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HOW TO: Lay a Laminate floor
Dealing with obstructions (cont.)
If your holes are at the short end of a board, cut across the board (fig. 20). If they're on the long edge, make two cuts at 45˚ and finish with a jigsaw or coping saw (fig. 21). Glue the pieces back behind the pipe and use spacers to hold them in place.
Wooden door frames
Lay an offcut with underlays against the door frame (architrave). Mark the height of this on the bottom of the door frame to indicate the gap needed for your new floor to fit underneath. Lay a hand saw on top of the off-cut with the blade facing the door frame. Carefully saw through the frame, bending the blade of the saw upwards slightly as you work (fig. 22). Alternatively, remove the frame with a chisel and mallet. Remember to leave an expansion gap.
fig. 21
Metal doorframes
Use an offcut of a board less its tongue to backmark around the frame, adding 10mm to allow for the expansion gap. Cut the board and fix it as normal, then fill the gap between the board and the doorframe using acrylic flexible sealant. Masking tape will protect the boards and doorframe as you apply the sealant (fig. 23).
Irregular shaped rooms
fig. 22
Use a chalkline to mark a line at 90˚ to the end wall (fig. 24). Measure up to the point where you have space to fit a whole row and mark this point by fixing a temporary batten to the subfloor. Dry lay the first row against the batten. Still dry laying, use the backmarking technique to mark and cut the boards until the area is filled. Number the boards. Take them up and then lay them again using adhesive. Remember HB to leave an expansion gap.
fig. 23
b
b
fig. 24
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