How to Remove Light
Content
HOW TO:
Remove a ceiling light
Introduction
This ‘How to’ describes the two types of lighting circuits and explains how to identify which type operates in your home. It then takes you step by step through the process of removing an old ceiling light. This is not a difficult job, but you must take care and observe all safety procedures. If you're at all unsure about working with electrical wiring, use a professionally qualified electrician. .
x
Safety Disclaimer:
Please note that all diagrams relating to electrical wiring have been created in a colour format. If you are printing this document in black and white, we advise you to follow these basic safety precautions: 1. Make a careful note of the colour diagrams as seen on your screen. Note the colour and position of each wire in the diagram. 2. Follow all safety instructions provided by the manufacturer of the equipment you are using. 3. If in doubt, contact a qualified electrician.
What you’ll need
Materials
Abrasive paper – coarse and fine Blanking plate and screws for metal conduit box in a concrete ceiling Conductor sleeving – red, green and yellow Connector block 5 amp and 15 amp Decorator's cellulose filler Insulation tape – black, red, green and yellow Junction box 20 amp, 4 terminal Masking tape Screws – 18mm x 4.7mm (No.8) woodchip
Tools & equipment
For wiring Ballpoint pen – for writing on masking tape Block Surform Bradawl Claw hammer Club hammer Craft knife Fibre pens – black, red, green, blue and brown Floorboard saw Flooring bolster 60mm Junior hacksaw Power Tracer Pliers 150mm – insulated Screwdrivers: • 4 x 100mm insulated • 5 x 190mm insulated • 8 x 150mm • No.2 Pozi insulated Small file – 150mm flat tapered Stepladder Torch or portable light Wire cutters – insulated Wire strippers – insulated For plaster repairs Block Surform Cork sanding block Filling knife – 100mm Old wood working chisel – 25mm Plasterer's hawk
Before you begin
Clear room
Move furniture from under the light fitting and lay down dustsheets. If necessary, remove furniture and roll back the carpet in the room above.
Ensure good light
Make sure you have adequate lighting. Try to work in daylight.
About lighting circuits
There are two ways of running lighting circuits: via a loop-in system and via a junction box system.
Loop-in system
A feed cable runs from the consumer unit (fuseboard) into each ceiling rose, out again and onto the next rose. A switch cable runs between the rose and the switch (fig. 1).
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HOW TO: Remove a ceiling light
About lighting circuits (cont.)
Junction box system
A cable runs from the consumer unit into a series of junction boxes, one for each light unit. Two more cables run from each junction box, one to the ceiling rose and one to the switch (fig. 2).
The circuit
In both systems the circuit is protected at the consumer unit by a 5 amp re-wirable or cartridge fuse, or by a 6 amp miniature circuit breaker (MCB). The fuse or MCB is identified by a white spot or switch. A circuit run via a loop-in system can feed up to 1200 watts. A junction box system can feed up to 1400 watts. With 100 watts usually allowed per lighting point, small houses and flats will only have one lighting circuit. Larger dwellings may have two or three. The conductor cable should be 1mm2 or l.5mm2 PVC-insulated twin & earth. The live conductor (L) is red and the neutral conductor (N) is black. The earth wire is not sleeved in the cable, but green and yellow sleeving is fed over it at terminations. Safety tip If your cables don't have an earth wire, or the covering is rubber or even lead, the wiring is very old, potentially dangerous and should be replaced.
fig. 1
fig. 2
Identifying the connections
Loop-in system
Modern ceiling roses have three plates plus an earth terminal: • The live (red) conductors from the feed or circuit cables go into the plate marked 'LOOP' • The neutral (black) conductors from the feed or circuit cables go into the plate marked 'N' • The red conductor on the switch cable goes into the plate marked 'LOOP' • The black conductor, which should have a red sleeve or insulating tape tag, goes into the plate marked 'LINE' or 'L' or 'LOAD' • All earth wires go into the plate marked 'E' or . The light or luminaire flex connections are via cord grips: • Brown into 'LINE' or 'L' or 'LOAD' • Blue into 'NEUTRAL' or 'N' • If the light fitting is metal, the flex will also have a green and yellow earth conductor, which is wired into the earth terminal 'E' or . Figure 3 shows the wiring for a typical ceiling rose on a loop-in system. Figure 4 shows the last rose on a loop-in system. Some light fittings are wired to the ceiling via connector blocks rather than a ceiling rose (fig. 5).
fig. 4
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fig. 3
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HOW TO: Remove a ceiling light
Identifying the connections (cont.)
Junction box system
Junction boxes mostly have four unmarked terminals: feed, neutral, switch and earth (fig. 6): Feed conductors go into and out of the box: • Red into feed 'L' • Blacks into neutral 'N'. Switch cable: • Red goes into the feed 'L' terminal • The black conductor, which should have a red tag or sleeve, goes into the switch terminal. Ceiling rose cable: • The red conductor goes into the switch terminal • The black conductor goes into the neutral 'N' terminal. All earth wires with green and yellow sleeving terminate in the earth terminal. One cable enters the junction box ceiling rose: • The red conductor goes to the terminal marked switch, line or load • The black conductor goes into the neutral 'N' terminal (fig. 7).
fig. 5
Removing the light fitting
1. Isolate the light circuit
Switch the light on. Isolate the circuit at the consumer unit. If the board is fitted with re-wirable or cartridge fuses, turn off the consumer unit mainswitch and remove the circuit fuse. If an MCB is fitted, press the test button and tape vertically over the MCB with red insulation tape. Turn on the consumer board and check that the light to be worked on no longer operates.
fig. 6
Hint As a double check, use a power tracer on something that you know is working, for example a kettle. Touch the tip against the live kettle lead and it will glow red (fig. 8). Now touch the power tracer against the light flex, while an assistant turns the switch on and off. If the tip doesn't glow, the circuit is safe to work on.
fig. 7
Safety tip Always turn off the main switch on the consumer board before removing or replacing fuses.
fig. 8
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HOW TO: Remove a ceiling light
Removing the light fitting (cont.)
Hint If the light fitting is bulky and/or heavy, have an assistant take the weight while you remove it.
2. Disconnect fitting
Remove the screws holding the fitting to the ceiling and lower the fitting to reveal the wiring. If the fitting is light, unscrew the rose cover. Do a careful drawing of the wiring, then disconnect the fitting.
3. Disconnect rose plate
Remove the screws holding the rose to the ceiling and carefully ease it away from the ceiling, bringing the cable tails along with it. Use masking tape and a ballpoint pen to identify the cables (fig. 9). Disconnect and remove the rose plate.
fig. 9
4. Make safe
Using a connector block If there's no access to the floor above, use a connector block to insulate the wiring. Wrap the ends of the cables and the connector block in two layers of insulation tape and push into the ceiling. Concrete ceilings will have metal conduit and boxes. Push the connector block into the box and cover with a blanking plate to suit the box. Using a junction box If you can gain access to the room above, lift the floorboard above the light fitting hole using the flooring bolster and claw hammer. You may need to cut the board, which can be nailed back later over a joist. Ease the cables up from the hole, taking care not to dislodge the masking tape. Wire the cables into a 20 amp four-plate junction box and screw the box to an adjacent joist. Fit the lid. If you need to enlarge the entry ports in the junction box, cut the edges with a junior hacksaw, break out the plastic with pliers, then file off any rough bits.
5. Check the circuit
Turn on the electricity supply at the mains and check that all other lights on the circuit are working.
6. Fill the hole
Use an old chisel to chip away old paint and filler round the ceiling rose, then flatten off with a cork block and coarse abrasive paper. Mix up a small amount of filler to a clotted cream consistency. Use the filling knife to force the filler into the cable hole and screw holes. Don't try to create a smooth surface, as the filler will sag anyway. When the filler has set, use a block Surform and coarse abrasive paper to flatten it off. Refill, making the surface as smooth and level with the surrounding ceiling as possible. When this second layer of filler is dry, smooth down with the cork block and HB fine abrasive paper. See How To: Prepare walls and ceilings for decoration.
Homebase.co.uk
4
Remove a ceiling light
Introduction
This ‘How to’ describes the two types of lighting circuits and explains how to identify which type operates in your home. It then takes you step by step through the process of removing an old ceiling light. This is not a difficult job, but you must take care and observe all safety procedures. If you're at all unsure about working with electrical wiring, use a professionally qualified electrician. .
x
Safety Disclaimer:
Please note that all diagrams relating to electrical wiring have been created in a colour format. If you are printing this document in black and white, we advise you to follow these basic safety precautions: 1. Make a careful note of the colour diagrams as seen on your screen. Note the colour and position of each wire in the diagram. 2. Follow all safety instructions provided by the manufacturer of the equipment you are using. 3. If in doubt, contact a qualified electrician.
What you’ll need
Materials
Abrasive paper – coarse and fine Blanking plate and screws for metal conduit box in a concrete ceiling Conductor sleeving – red, green and yellow Connector block 5 amp and 15 amp Decorator's cellulose filler Insulation tape – black, red, green and yellow Junction box 20 amp, 4 terminal Masking tape Screws – 18mm x 4.7mm (No.8) woodchip
Tools & equipment
For wiring Ballpoint pen – for writing on masking tape Block Surform Bradawl Claw hammer Club hammer Craft knife Fibre pens – black, red, green, blue and brown Floorboard saw Flooring bolster 60mm Junior hacksaw Power Tracer Pliers 150mm – insulated Screwdrivers: • 4 x 100mm insulated • 5 x 190mm insulated • 8 x 150mm • No.2 Pozi insulated Small file – 150mm flat tapered Stepladder Torch or portable light Wire cutters – insulated Wire strippers – insulated For plaster repairs Block Surform Cork sanding block Filling knife – 100mm Old wood working chisel – 25mm Plasterer's hawk
Before you begin
Clear room
Move furniture from under the light fitting and lay down dustsheets. If necessary, remove furniture and roll back the carpet in the room above.
Ensure good light
Make sure you have adequate lighting. Try to work in daylight.
About lighting circuits
There are two ways of running lighting circuits: via a loop-in system and via a junction box system.
Loop-in system
A feed cable runs from the consumer unit (fuseboard) into each ceiling rose, out again and onto the next rose. A switch cable runs between the rose and the switch (fig. 1).
Homebase.co.uk
1
HOW TO: Remove a ceiling light
About lighting circuits (cont.)
Junction box system
A cable runs from the consumer unit into a series of junction boxes, one for each light unit. Two more cables run from each junction box, one to the ceiling rose and one to the switch (fig. 2).
The circuit
In both systems the circuit is protected at the consumer unit by a 5 amp re-wirable or cartridge fuse, or by a 6 amp miniature circuit breaker (MCB). The fuse or MCB is identified by a white spot or switch. A circuit run via a loop-in system can feed up to 1200 watts. A junction box system can feed up to 1400 watts. With 100 watts usually allowed per lighting point, small houses and flats will only have one lighting circuit. Larger dwellings may have two or three. The conductor cable should be 1mm2 or l.5mm2 PVC-insulated twin & earth. The live conductor (L) is red and the neutral conductor (N) is black. The earth wire is not sleeved in the cable, but green and yellow sleeving is fed over it at terminations. Safety tip If your cables don't have an earth wire, or the covering is rubber or even lead, the wiring is very old, potentially dangerous and should be replaced.
fig. 1
fig. 2
Identifying the connections
Loop-in system
Modern ceiling roses have three plates plus an earth terminal: • The live (red) conductors from the feed or circuit cables go into the plate marked 'LOOP' • The neutral (black) conductors from the feed or circuit cables go into the plate marked 'N' • The red conductor on the switch cable goes into the plate marked 'LOOP' • The black conductor, which should have a red sleeve or insulating tape tag, goes into the plate marked 'LINE' or 'L' or 'LOAD' • All earth wires go into the plate marked 'E' or . The light or luminaire flex connections are via cord grips: • Brown into 'LINE' or 'L' or 'LOAD' • Blue into 'NEUTRAL' or 'N' • If the light fitting is metal, the flex will also have a green and yellow earth conductor, which is wired into the earth terminal 'E' or . Figure 3 shows the wiring for a typical ceiling rose on a loop-in system. Figure 4 shows the last rose on a loop-in system. Some light fittings are wired to the ceiling via connector blocks rather than a ceiling rose (fig. 5).
fig. 4
Homebase.co.uk
fig. 3
2
HOW TO: Remove a ceiling light
Identifying the connections (cont.)
Junction box system
Junction boxes mostly have four unmarked terminals: feed, neutral, switch and earth (fig. 6): Feed conductors go into and out of the box: • Red into feed 'L' • Blacks into neutral 'N'. Switch cable: • Red goes into the feed 'L' terminal • The black conductor, which should have a red tag or sleeve, goes into the switch terminal. Ceiling rose cable: • The red conductor goes into the switch terminal • The black conductor goes into the neutral 'N' terminal. All earth wires with green and yellow sleeving terminate in the earth terminal. One cable enters the junction box ceiling rose: • The red conductor goes to the terminal marked switch, line or load • The black conductor goes into the neutral 'N' terminal (fig. 7).
fig. 5
Removing the light fitting
1. Isolate the light circuit
Switch the light on. Isolate the circuit at the consumer unit. If the board is fitted with re-wirable or cartridge fuses, turn off the consumer unit mainswitch and remove the circuit fuse. If an MCB is fitted, press the test button and tape vertically over the MCB with red insulation tape. Turn on the consumer board and check that the light to be worked on no longer operates.
fig. 6
Hint As a double check, use a power tracer on something that you know is working, for example a kettle. Touch the tip against the live kettle lead and it will glow red (fig. 8). Now touch the power tracer against the light flex, while an assistant turns the switch on and off. If the tip doesn't glow, the circuit is safe to work on.
fig. 7
Safety tip Always turn off the main switch on the consumer board before removing or replacing fuses.
fig. 8
Homebase.co.uk
3
HOW TO: Remove a ceiling light
Removing the light fitting (cont.)
Hint If the light fitting is bulky and/or heavy, have an assistant take the weight while you remove it.
2. Disconnect fitting
Remove the screws holding the fitting to the ceiling and lower the fitting to reveal the wiring. If the fitting is light, unscrew the rose cover. Do a careful drawing of the wiring, then disconnect the fitting.
3. Disconnect rose plate
Remove the screws holding the rose to the ceiling and carefully ease it away from the ceiling, bringing the cable tails along with it. Use masking tape and a ballpoint pen to identify the cables (fig. 9). Disconnect and remove the rose plate.
fig. 9
4. Make safe
Using a connector block If there's no access to the floor above, use a connector block to insulate the wiring. Wrap the ends of the cables and the connector block in two layers of insulation tape and push into the ceiling. Concrete ceilings will have metal conduit and boxes. Push the connector block into the box and cover with a blanking plate to suit the box. Using a junction box If you can gain access to the room above, lift the floorboard above the light fitting hole using the flooring bolster and claw hammer. You may need to cut the board, which can be nailed back later over a joist. Ease the cables up from the hole, taking care not to dislodge the masking tape. Wire the cables into a 20 amp four-plate junction box and screw the box to an adjacent joist. Fit the lid. If you need to enlarge the entry ports in the junction box, cut the edges with a junior hacksaw, break out the plastic with pliers, then file off any rough bits.
5. Check the circuit
Turn on the electricity supply at the mains and check that all other lights on the circuit are working.
6. Fill the hole
Use an old chisel to chip away old paint and filler round the ceiling rose, then flatten off with a cork block and coarse abrasive paper. Mix up a small amount of filler to a clotted cream consistency. Use the filling knife to force the filler into the cable hole and screw holes. Don't try to create a smooth surface, as the filler will sag anyway. When the filler has set, use a block Surform and coarse abrasive paper to flatten it off. Refill, making the surface as smooth and level with the surrounding ceiling as possible. When this second layer of filler is dry, smooth down with the cork block and HB fine abrasive paper. See How To: Prepare walls and ceilings for decoration.
Homebase.co.uk
4
