Makeup Kit Manual
Content
T he Beauty Book
Makeup Kit Manual
By: Tanya Rae
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T he Beauty Book
Makeup Kit Manual
© 2013 a Rae Creative, Inc. Publication. Photography © 2012 by Tanya Rae.
The information contained in this manual is for informational purposes only.
Limit of Liability and Disclaimer of Warranty: Although the author and publisher have made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete accuracy of the content in this Guide, they assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Also, you should use this information as you see fit, and at your own risk. All information, products, services that have been provided should be independently verified by your own qualified professionals. By reading this manual, you agree that Tanya Rae, The-Beauty-Book.com and Rae Creative, Inc. are not responsible for the success or failure of your business, any gain or loss of profit or any other damages related to decisions based on any information presented in this guide. Additionally, The-Beauty-Book.com and Rae Creative, Inc. has an affiliate program with various shopping sites, wherein Rae Creative Inc. receives a portion of the sales price when sales originate from The-Beauty-Book.com. We are committed to recommending quality products which we believe in and are in no way influenced by our involvement in said affiliate programs. Trademarks: This book identifies product names and services known to be trademarks, registered trademarks, or service marks of their respective holders. They are used throughout this book in an editorial fashion only. In addition, terms suspected of being trademarks, registered trademarks, or service marks have been appropriately capitalized, although Rae Creative, Inc. cannot attest to the accuracy of this information. Use of a term in this book should not be regarded as affecting the validity of any trademark, registered trademark, or service mark. All contents copyright © 2011-2013 by The-Beauty-Book.com and Rae Creative, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this document or the related files may be reproduced or transmitted in any form, by any means (electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the publisher.
© 2012 Rae Creative, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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T he Beauty Book
Makeup Kit Manual
I wanted to write this because I remember how completely overwhelming it was to build a makeup kit from scratch. I am sure you are probably wondering all of the same things I was... * What types of makeup should I buy? * What are the must-have items every makeup artist should carry? * What should I buy first? * Which brands are better than others? * Is their any real difference between drugstore cosmetics and department store brands? I did a lot of asking around and bought tons of different makeup. Honestly, I didn’t even realize what some of it was used for. I just bought based on what other people mentioned or the latest product showcased in Allure magazine. There was definitely a lot of trial and error. Then one day I got to see what a professional makeup artist used. Oh! That’s what a kit is supposed to look like. So I went back to rearranging my kit. I can tell you the only thing I have consistently used from my original kit are some of my brushes and Dermacolor brand mini concealer palettes. I had no idea that building a great makeup kit wasn’t going to happen overnight - I literally thought I could just go out a buy one. Building a professional makeup kit is a "work in motion". Over time you will find that you have some favorite products that you can’t live without. Your friends will recommend products to you. You will test out products that you simply just don't find a need for and so on. The unbelievable part is that you will get to play with makeup for a living so be patient and have fun!
xo Rae a y Tan
If you have any questions or just want to say hello please feel free to get in touch with me. You can reach me on Twitter @thebeautybook, my Facebook Page or my email [email protected]. Hope you enjoy!
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A li!le bit about how this guide wor"...
We will touch on all of the main kit essentials and give a brief overview on the different types of makeup. Tips on what to look for when choosing makeup for other people. What you can skimp on and what you can’t. Makeup artist must-haves - what are the staples in every makeup artist’s kit. Suggested brands at different price points. The idea is for you to build a great workable base kit, something to get you started. You will always be freshening up your kit and adding to it but in the meantime let's begin with the basics. Something to give you the confidence that you can walk into any job setting, armed with the tools you will need to do fabulous work.
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Section 1: Tools
This is a beauty kit investment. The right tools can be the difference between creating a flawless face or creating a beauty faux pas. You are an artist! So think of yourself as a modern day Michelangelo and your client's faces are the Sistine Chapel. This doesn't mean you have to break the bank - you just have to know what to look for.
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Brush#
First and most important is quality. You will use these tools everyday and with proper care, they will last for years. Check the handles, do they seem flimsy? What about the bristles, are they coarse? Do they shed their hair right away? Take a pass. It's better to spend a little extra in the beginning on a good set rather than skimping and constantly replacing brushes. I bought my first set of Japonesque brushes in 1999 and to be honest I still have (and use) a good portion of them. Thru the years I built a brush set around them. I have bought from every major brand - MAC, Sephora, Shu Uemura, Kevyn Aucoin, random beauty supplies, indie brands, trade shows, art supplies, Target, etc. I have tried and tested so many. Some of them were kit worthy, some weren't. Some I loved and bought three or four of each. One thing I learned is that it's not necessarily about the brand name but about the quality and the functionality. Start out with a good basic set until you get used to working with them. You can either purchase a pre-made brush set or customize your own. Some people prefer large brushes, I myself prefer smaller ones. Like anything else, over time you will have favorite brushes and brushes that you never touch. My advice start simple and add as needed. Synthetic vs Animal Hair Synthetic brushes are usually made up of nylon or taklon and tend to work best with cremes and liquids. Because of the nature of their make up (no pun intended) synthetic brushes allow cream makeup to adhere to the bristles for an even application. Natural brushes are usually made up of a mix of different animal hair such as pony, squirrel, sable, etc. The type of hair will determine the shape and softness of the brush. Natural hair works best with powder based makeup. Vegan brands have become very popular lately. If this is something you feel very strongly about, feel free to experiment with synthetics. With regards to reactions from natural brushes, I have yet to see that happen.
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Brush#
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1. Powder Brush - A large fluffy brush used to apply loose or pressed powder. 2. Blush Brush - A medium to large sized brush used to apply blush and blend evenly into the skin. 3. Bronzer Brush - A flat brush perfect for applying bronzer to cheekbones, forehead, chin, shoulder and décolletage. 4. Foundation Brush - A large brush with firm bristles used to apply foundation. 5. Concealer Brush - A smaller flat brush used to cover blemishes, dark spots, under-eye circles and any other imperfections. 6. Contour Brush - Slightly tapered brush used for contouring. The smaller size allows for more exact application on smaller areas. 7. Eyeshadow Fluff Brush - This soft full brush is perfect for applying eye shadow over the entire lid. 8. Eyeshadow Crease Brush - A soft yet firm tapered brush that allows for a precise application of shadow. 9. Eyeshadow Contour Brush - A full yet firm brush used for controlled blending. 10. Eyeliner Brush - Can be either slanted or flat with stiff bristles. Great for lining top and bottom. Can be used with liquid, cream or powder liners. 11. Angled Brush - The tapered angle allows for a precise application of eye liners and brow powders. Look for a firm angled brush. 12. Lip Brush - They come in various lengths, with lids, without lids and retractable. Choose whichever you find easiest to work with. 13. Eyebrow Spooly Brush - Used for brushing the brows while grooming or cutting. Also used for blending brow liner or shadow.
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Tools
Palettes Palettes are the best way to slim your kit down and keep you super organized. Try to determine what your needs are for the immediate future and buy accordingly. Remember, you can always add more as your kit grows. They come in two main types: Shadow palettes - they hold your pressed powder makeup e.g. eye shadows, blush, bronzers, etc. Cream palettes - these vary more in size but are great for anything cream e.g. foundation, concealer, lipstick, cream blush, highlighter, etc. Lash Curler This is a scissor-like apparatus used to curl lashes. They come in metal, plastic, full and half sizes. It is a necessity. My advice - it’s worth the splurge. The drugstore brands just don’t work that well. Tweezers You will use these to tweeze your clients brows and to apply false lashes. Slanted or pointed, it’s a personal choice so use what you are comfortable with. Brow Scissors Small cuticle style scissors that are used for grooming the brows, cutting false lashes, etc. Lash Comb Tiny little travel comb used for separating lashes after mascara. Look for a comb with metal bristles, the plastic bristles tend to break easily. Pencil Sharpener Look for a dual sharpener, one that works for slim and jumbo sized pencils. Try to find one with a lid to catch the shavings too. Mixing Palette A flat metal or plastic palette used to mix makeup on. You can find at any beauty or art supply. Spatulas Metal or plastic flat spatula used to scoop out makeup. You can also work off of spatula as you would a mixing palette.
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Disposabl#:
Wedge Sponges Used to apply foundation and blending any makeup into the skin. A wedge style will allow for an even application in the hardest to reach areas. Look for a sponge that doesn’t crumble or soak up the makeup. *Tip: Latex allergies are quite common so look for brands that say latex free. Mascara Wands Excellent for keeping your mascara clean and bacteria free. Lip Brushes Great way to keep your lip brushes free from germs or bacteria. especially useful if a client is sick or suffers from cold sores. They are
Cotton Pads Look for a brand that doesn’t disintegrate in water or leave little cotton fibers on the skin. Q-tips Perfect blending and erasing makeup in even the smallest areas. Again, look for a brand that leave little fibers behind. Blot Papers Papers or sheets that absorbs excess oil and shine from the face. Look for sheets that don’t leave a powder residue behind.
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Section 2: Makeup
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Skin Care
Prepping the skin is the first step to any makeup application. You will need to have some basic skin care on hand to start off with. Moisturizer - ideally you will want to have two different types to suit your clients needs. A light moisturizer for oily skin and a heavier moisturizer for normal to dry skin. Lip Balms - perfect for relieving dry or chapped lips. Keep a thicker more emollient lip balm for really dry lips and a regular lip balm that coats the lips but doesn't leave a shine. Makeup Remover - look for an “eye” makeup remover since they tend to be more gentle. Wipes - an excellent way to remove makeup or freshen up the skin prior to application. *Tip: Skip the brand name makeup remover wipes - they tend to leave behind an oily residue and go for the drugstore baby wipes. Eye Drops - used to relieve redness and brighten the eyes. Can also work double duty by taking the redness out of a blemish - simply add a couple drops onto a q-tip and lightly hold over the blemish.
Extras -
Makeup Primer - used to smooth and even out the skin before you apply makeup. They come in liquid, gel or balm form. Look for primers that don’t dry out the skin or flake under makeup. They can be great for people with really oily skin.
Tips
Makeup primers can be on the expensive side, so if it’s out of your budget right now, skip it. Your client’s makeup will last just as long with moisturizer on the skin.
Lip Exfoliators - they exfoliate any dry flaky skin from the lips. Facial Mists - freshens up the skin and makeup after a long day.
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Foundation
The basic idea of foundation is to give the skin a fresh natural glow. A beautiful foundation application will minimize imperfections while still letting the skin shine thru. Now, to achieve that look you will need to know a little bit about the actual makeup. Foundations come in a few different types and textures. Cream Foundation - gives the option of a full coverage look when applied directly with a sponge or can be sheered out with a foundation brush and damp sponge. They come in both cream and stick varieties. Since cream foundations are usually oil-based they are the best choice for dry, mature and darker skin types. Liquid Foundation - gives a medium coverage with a choice of matte or dewey finishes. They have the option of being oil-based or water-based. Liquid foundation works well on normal to oily skin types. If you like the look but need a little more coverage apply a layer, wait until it sets and apply a second layer. Tinted Moisturizer - gives a hint of coverage. This is for that little extra glow on top of flawless skin. *The term oil-based usually scares people but for a makeup artist this is a welcomed description. First off, oil & water don't mix so the makeup will hold up under tears, sweat, heat and humidity. Another plus, the pigments in oil-based makeup last longer so you don't have to worry about the color fading or changing under hot lights and long hours. Cream vs. Liquid I am advocate of starting out with cream foundation. I just find them more versatile in terms of coverage, skin types and holding up under different work conditions. Liquid foundations tend to have a shorter shelf life than cream foundations. If you want to add a couple to your kit, pick one or two shades that you will use most often so you will get your money's worth.
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Creams are easier to carry - just scoop them into a palette and you are good to go. Another benefit of creams, because of the heavier consistency they can double as a concealer or you can layer them to use as tattoo, vein and scar cover.
Extras Iridescent Foundation - gives a light shimmer or sheen to the skin and comes in both liquid and cream. Keep in mind this type of foundation will maximize pores and imperfections so use sparingly on anyone with than less perfect skin.
Concealer
Concealer is used to hide all of those unsightly imperfections. Choose the right kind and you can erase all evidence of under-eye circles, blemishes, scars, broken blood vessels, birthmarks or any other discoloration on the face. Concealers can come cream, liquid and pencil form. Their consistencies vary from light coverage to dry & opaque. While they all have their benefits, dry and opaque will serve you best in the beginning. This will usually offer the most coverage and staying power. They tend to stay exactly where you put them and you can be really exact with your application. Keep in mind, a little goes a long way so start out light and add as needed to avoid a look that's too heavy. Different shades of concealer can make for excellent highlighting & contouring. Add a drop of moisturizer on your palette and mix with concealer for really dry skin.
Extras Under Eye Highlighters - they are a sheer based cream with a bit of light reflectant property in them. They are used mainly to brighten up the under eye area, either on their own or with concealer over top.
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Powder
Makeup artist's use powder to set their makeup and tone down shine. Powders come in translucent as well as a variety of hues. Used alone opaque colored powders can act as a foundation. When used over regular foundation you have to be careful with color matching because it can change the entire makeup look. If you can only buy one type of powder at first, go for translucent. They come in both loose and compact forms and can be applied with a brush. Translucent powders are perfect for eliminating shine without adding color or looking too heavy. The best part is that they work with every skin color from the palest of pale to the darkest of dark.
Blush & Bronzer
This is one of the categories that I think you should splurge a little on. When choosing a blush or bronzer, look for one that glides on soft and easily, it should have silky feel to it. If it "skips" on the skin it's not a good formula. Avoid anything too metallic, it will cheapen the look and maximize pores or wrinkles. Go for soft and shimmery, this will look beautiful on every skin color.
Blush
The purpose of blush is to brighten the face and add a youthful glow. The color can look translucent and ethereal or more prominent with a pop of color. Blush can come in liquid and stain, cream or powder. They range in color from pale pinks to dark plums. Liquid / Stain - is a concentrated color so use sparingly at first. It packs lots of color but the right shade can give a soft flushed look. Best used with a flawless complexion. Cream Blush - is highly
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pigmented but it's texture allows for easier application. The cream consistency makes it perfect for dry skin. Look for a blush that blends into the skin easily and the color will look like it's glowing from within. Powder Blush - comes in mattes, velvets with soft light reflectants or more shimmery textures. Powder blush will give you the most versatility in terms of use. It will last longer, is easier to layer than a cream blush and is suitable for all skin types. Keep in mind, if you buy something too dull it will never give that extra pop of color. A blush that looks too bright in the package can be applied in soft layers to achieve a healthy glow. My blush of choice - blush with soft shimmer and lots of color. Start out with just three to four blush colors at first and add as you need. Fair skin - pink and peach toned blush Medium skin - pink, rosy-pink toned blush Dark skin - plum and orange-red toned blush
Color Guide
Bronzer
The idea behind bronzer is to look healthy and sun kissed. They come in cream, pressed powder and loose powder form and can range in color and texture. Cream Bronzer - can be sheer or highly pigmented. Powder Bronzer - comes in pressed or loose powder and in matte and shimmer textures. Matte bronzers tend to look a little flat. A soft shimmer texture will give a warm glow. Start out with one or two bronzers, one for fair skin and one for medium to dark.
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Ey#hadow
Build your shadow palette with mostly powder based products. While creams look beautiful, they require constant touch up since they crease so quickly, great for a photo shoot but not so much for real life. Long-wear formulas can make eyelids over the age of twenty-ish look crepey. Look for shadows that have strong pigment and blend really well. Start out with neutrals, warm flesh tones, deep hues for smoky eyes and a few vibrant fun colors at first. This color palette tends to look beautiful on everyone and will give you the most options. Fair skin - soft white, bone, pale yellow, pale peach, warm tan, taupe, heather gray, warm brown, slate gray, navy. Medium Skin - bone, pale yellow, soft golds, warm tans, soft bronze, peachy pinks, warm & deep browns, slate gray, navy, coal black. Dark Skin - soft golds, amber, warm orange, tan, deep bronze, burgundy, coffee brown, coal, jet black.
Color Guide
* Choose shadows in the velvet, pearl or luster categories, they allow for a more even application and give a richer look. Try to avoid anything frost – they look dated and tend to make more mature eyelids look older.
Extras -
Trendy colors, shadow gloss, glitter - while they are sooo much fun to play with they are just not practical for everyday use. Pick them up as needed.
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Eye Liner
Eyeliner comes in three main types of formulas: pencil, creme/gel and liquid. Pencil - a wax based pencil that comes in a regular or kohl formula and in a variety of shades. Perfect for smudging, lining the inner rims or drawing a “cheat line”. My favorite pencils are kohl. They have more depth and they glide onto the eye making them easier to work with. Try to avoid pencils that are stiff, they pull and drag at the eye, causing irritation. Start out with your basic colors such as black, brown, smoke and white. Feel free to add other colors as you need them. Creme/Gel - comes in a solid cream form but can be easily applied with a brush. Works well as alternative to liquid. Liquid - comes in a liquid form, either waterproof or non, in a variety of colors. You will need a brush for application. Great for creating sharp, precise lines. Make it waterproof! You want longevity with eyeliner and most non-waterproof formulas chip, flake and smudge. Look for an opaque consistency. The liner shouldn’t look see through when you apply it. Start out with one black and one brown and add colors as you need. Most importantly choose the formula type you are most comfortable using. You can always make the switch later on.
Tips
Brows
A good brow can make or break your client’s look, so the proper makeup is essential . Brow products consist of pencils, powders, gel & cream fillers and gel wands. They come in blonde / taupe, soft reds and browns. Brow Pencils - specifically made for brows. Harder than an eyeliner pencil, easily blendable but smudge proof. Perfect for brows that need a lot of filling in or just a little.
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Powders - come in powder form similar to an eyeshadow. Use with a light hand since they can go on heavy. Gel/Cream - used to recreate a full or missing piece of a brow. This may take some practice but has real staying power. Gel Wands - a gel formula in a mascara-like tube used to control difficult brows. Comes in clear and various shades. If you are new to brow products start out with pencil first, it’s the most versatile and easiest to use. Blonde pencil for blondes, soft redheads and light brunettes. Soft brown pencil for dark brunettes. For women with grey or silver hair, use whatever their former natural color was. A clear gel wand works with every brow color.
Color Guide
Mascara
Ahhh, mascara. The one product most women will never leave home without. There are two factors that make a fabulous mascara - the formula and the wand. Well, you will be using disposable wands so you only need to find a formula that you love. Keep it simple. Look for waterproof and non-clumping. The same as with eyeliner, the non-waterproof formulas flake and run so waterproof is always your best bet. Always choose a hypoallergenic formula. Always, always use black - unless a client specifically asks for brown.
Lash#
We love our lashes! False eyelashes can make the eyes look bigger, sexier and more glamorous so it’s a no brainer why women want to wear them. Try to stock up on individual lashes rather than strips at first. They come in various lengths so you can customize them for each client. Apply a few for a really natural look or a lot for drama.
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Tips
For everyday clients the most commonly used size is “small”. For women with really short lashes mix in some of the “under” size.
Lash Glue - Comes in either clear or dark. When you are first learning to apply lashes use the clear, this will allow for a little wiggle room with the application. Once your are adept at it, switch over to the black for a more streamlined look.
Extras Fantasy Strip Lashes - Tons of fun but you can hold off until a job requires you to have them.
Lips
Lipsticks - cream based color, these come a variety of textures and an endless rainbow of hues. Look for lipsticks with creamy textures, they are easier to apply and mix together, plus they will look fresh on more mature or dry lips. It's safe to have a matte red or two on hand. Skip the long wear formulas, they are too drying. And avoid anything frosty, it will date the look. Start out with the basics. Nude, soft pink, pale peach, coral, bright pink, rose, red (a blue-red & a scarlet red), deep plum & chestnut. Lip Gloss - Gloss is the perfect way to add shine, a little shimmer or a pop of color to any lip. Look for a light wearable formula, nothing too sticky. Try to avoid anything super shiny unless the job calls for it.
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Tinted Lip Balm - Lip balm that gives a hint of color. Perfect for the younger set or when you are going for a natural look. Since the color is usually very sheer, pick brighter hues such as rosy pinks, cherry reds & berry tones. Lip Liners - a wax-based pencil used to even out the lip line. Great for use as a lip base and to prevent the lipstick from bleeding. I love lip liners because they give you so many options. You can create the illusion of fuller lips. Use it alone to line and fill in the lips, top with a lip balm and viola, you have a lip color. Top it with a lipstick and you have created a new variation to your lip color. The possibilities are endless.
Tips
You will want to have a good color selection on hand. Nude, natural, pink, coral, red, mahogany, currant or plum & chocolate.
Body
Body Makeup - gives the body a sheer wash of color, usually a shade or two darker than the model’s skin color. This will be a photo shoot necessity. Body Lotion / Oil - used to soften and moisturize dry skin.
Misc. Nec#siti#
Brush Cleaner - Look for a quick dry formula to use in between clients. Alcohol - Great to have on hand for sanitizing and removing skin adhesive.
Extras Traynor Face / Neck Lift Tapes - Used to pull the face and/or neck back to give a temporary face lift.
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Section 3: Products
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Is there a difference between drug store and department store cosmetics?
Well... yes and no. A beauty insider secret - some of the large drugstore cosmetics companies own the department store brands. The larger the company, the more research and development they can do which means better ingredients. And, if a product doesn’t work they have the ability to revamp it quickly. For example, L'Oreal owns Lancome. Their formulas and textures are very similar. There are some slight differences but if you find something you love from Lancome, chances are you will find the same something you love from L'Oreal. If you do your beauty brand research you can find out which brand is in which beauty family and you can make smarter purchases. Now this being said, there are some major department store lines that are in a class all of their own as far as color payoff and texture are concerned. That's why they can charge the big bucks. One of the bigger drawbacks to shopping at a drugstore is that you can't test out the product. Sometimes that added benefit is worth a little bit more in terms of money. Truth be told, beauty experts have tried and true favorites from every brand which leads us to the fun part - shopping!!
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Beauty Products
Section 1: Tools
Brushes $$$ Shu Uemura, $$ Sephora Collection $ Crown Brush Palettes Shadow & Powder Palettes $$ Z Palette $$ MAC Pro Palettes Cream Palettes $$$ Japonesque Cream Palette Organizers $$ Z Palette Lash Curler
Makeup Artist Must Have - Shu Uemura
$$$ Kevyn Aucoin The Eyelash Curler Tweezers $$ Tweezerman Slant or Point Tweezer $ Revlon Expert Tweezers Slant Tip Brow Scissors $$ Tweezerman Stainless Facial Hair Scissors $ Revlon Brow Set Lash Comb $$ Vincent Longo Lash Definer Eyelash Comb $ Sonia Kashuk Lash Comb Pencil Sharpener $$ Urban Decay Grind House Double Barrel Sharpener $ Alcone Black Professional Pencil Sharpener for Rounded Tips
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Disposabl#
Wedge Sponges $$$ Beauty Blender Ultimate Sponge Makeup Applicator $$ Alcone Non-Latex Sponges $ CVS Essence of Beauty Wedges Mascara Wands $$ Ricky’s NYC Rickycare Large Mascara Wands $ Face Secrets Professional Disposable Mascara Wands Lip Brushes $$ Ricky’s NYC Rickycare White-Bristle Lip Brush $ Face Secrets Professional Disposable Lip Brushes Cotton Pads $$ Shiseido The Makeup Facial Cotton $ CVS Cotton Rounds Blotting Papers $$$ Shiseido Pureness Oil-Control Blotting Paper $ Clean & Clear Oil Absorbing Sheets
Section 2: T he Makeup
Skin Care
Dry Skin Moisturizer $$$ La Mer Creme de la Mer Moisturizing Cream $$ Embryolisse Lait Creme Concentre $ Cetaphil Cream Moisturizer Normal to Combination Skin Moisturizer $$ John Masters Organics Green Tea & Rose $ Desert Essence Jojoba Oil Oily Skin Moisturizer $$$ DDF Ultra-Lite Oil-Free Moisturizing Dew $ Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisture, Sensitive Skin
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Lip Balms
Makeup Artist Must Have - Smith’s Rosebud Salve
$$ Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream $ Chapstick Makeup Remover $$ Lancome Bi-Facil Eye Makeup Remover $ Almay Oil-Free Makeup Eraser Sticks Makeup Wipes $$$ Korres Wipes $ CVS Brand Toddler Wipes Eye Drops $$$ Original Laiter Collyre Bleu Eye Drops $ Visine Advanced Relief Redness Reliever Eye Drops
Extras:
Makeup Primer $$$ Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer $$ Make Up For Ever HD Microperfecting Primer in “Neutral” $ Sephora Collection Perfecting Ultra-Smoothing Primer in Clear Lip Exfoliator $$$ Bliss Fabulips Sugar Lip Scrub $ e.l.f. Studio Lip Exfoliator Facial Mists $$$ Arcona Lavender Hydrasol $ Evian Facial Mist
Foundation
Creme Foundation
Makeup Artist Must Have - RCMA
$$$ Cle de Peau Cream Foundation $ Revlon Colorstay Whipped Creme Makeup Liquid Foundation $$$ Amani Luminous Silk Foundation $ L’Oreal Paris True Match Super Blendable Makeup
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Tinted Moisturizer $$$ Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer $$ MAC Face & Body Foundation
Concealer Makeup Artist Must Have - Dermacolor Mini Palette
Cream Concealer $$$ Cle de Peau Beaute Concealer $$ Laura Mercier Secret Concealer $$ MAC Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer Liquid Concealer $$ MAC Select Moisturecover Concealer $ Revlon Colorstay Concealer Pencil Concealer $$ Make Up For Ever Lip & Concealer Pencil $ The Body Shop Concealer Pencil Extras Under-eye Highlighters $$$ YSL Touche Eclat $$ Make Up For Ever Lift Concealer
Powder
Translucent Powder $$ MAC Blot Powder $ Ben Nye Classic Translucent Face Powder in “Neutral Set” Color Powder $$$ Chanel Poudre Universelle Compacte $$ Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation $ Revlon Colorstay Pressed Powder $ CoverGirl Queen Collection Lasting Matte Pressed Powder
Blush
Liquid/Stain Blush $$$ Tarte Cheek Stain $$ The Balm Stainiac
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Cream Blush $$ Stila Convertible Color $ Mark Just Pinched Blush Instant Blush Tint Powder Blush $$$ Nars Powder Blush $$ MAC Powder Blush
Bronzer
Cream Bronzer $$$ Nars The Multiple Powder Bronzer $$$ Guerlain Terracotta Bronzing Powder $ L’Oreal Paris Glam Bronzing Powder
Ey#hadow
Powder Eyeshadow $$ MAC Eye Shadow, MAC Pigment $ L’Oreal HiP Studio Secrets Professional Shocking Pigments Eye Palettes $$$ Dior 5-Colour Eyeshadow Palette $$ Viseart Eyeshadow Palette $ Maybelline New York Expert Wear Shadow Quad Extras Cream Eyeshadow $$$ Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow $$ Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream $ Maybelline EyeStudio Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow
Eye Liner
Pencil Eye Liner $$$ Le Crayon Kohl $$ MAC Eye Kohl $ Maybelline New York EyeStudio Master Drama Cream Pencil Creme/Gel Eye Liner $$ Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner $ Maybelline New York Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Liner
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Liquid Eye Liner $$ Make Up For Ever Pro Waterproof Eyeliner $ Maybelline New York Eye Studio Master Precise Ink Pen Eyeliner
Brows
Brow Pencils $$ Lancome Le Crayon Poudre Powder Pencil $ L’Oreal Paris Brow Stylist Custom Brow Shaping Pencil Brow Powders $$ Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powder Duo Brow Gel/Cream $$ Laura Mercier Brow Definer Gel Wands $$ Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Gel $ Sonia Kashuk Brow Gel
Mascara Makeup Artist Must Have - L’Oreal Paris Voluminous Waterproof Mascara
$$ Dior Diorshow Waterproof Mascara $$ Lancome Definicils - High Definition Waterproof Mascara $ Maybelline The Falsies Volume Express
Lash#
Individual Flares $$ Ardell Lashes $ Helena Collection Strip Lashes $$$ Shu Uemura False Lashes $ Alcone Company Eye Lash Glue
Makeup Artist Must Have - Duo Adhesive
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Lips
Lipsticks $$$ Nars Lipstick $$ MAC Lipstick $ Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick Lip Gloss $$$ Chanel Levres Scintillantes Glossimer $$ Sephora Collection Ultra Shine Lip Gloss $ L’Oreal Infallible Never Fail Lip Gloss Tinted Lip Balm $$ Laura Mercier HydraTine Lip Balm SPF 15 $ Burt’s Bees Tinted Lip Balm Lip Liners $$$ Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil $$ MAC Lip Pencil $ Sonia Kashuk Velvety Matte Lip Crayon
Body
Body Makeup
Makeup Artist Must Have - Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs
$$$ Scott Barnes Body Bling $$ MAC Face & Body $ Mario Badescu Summer Shine Body Lotion
Body Lotion / Oil $ Jergens Ultra Healing Extra Dry Skin Moisturizer $ Aura Cacia Apricot Kernel Oil
Misc. Nec#siti#
Brush Cleaner
Makeup Artist Must Have - Parian Spirit
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T he Beauty Book
Makeup Kit Manual
Thank you so much!
I really hope you enjoyed this eBook as much as I loved writing it. I can’t thank you enough for your continued support of The Beauty Book and everything I do. I appreciate each and every one of you for taking time out of your lives to read this. If you have an extra minute, I would love to hear any thoughts you might have at www.the-beauty-book.com. Likewise, if I can be of help or offer any advice feel free to email me [email protected]. I read all of my emails and comments so reach out any time! Lastly, if you haven’t already, you can follow me on Twitter @thebeautybook and help with the conversations on my Facebook Page. Thanks again, and I wish you tons of success on your makeup journey!
xo ae R a Tany
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Makeup Kit Manual
By: Tanya Rae
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T he Beauty Book
Makeup Kit Manual
© 2013 a Rae Creative, Inc. Publication. Photography © 2012 by Tanya Rae.
The information contained in this manual is for informational purposes only.
Limit of Liability and Disclaimer of Warranty: Although the author and publisher have made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete accuracy of the content in this Guide, they assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Also, you should use this information as you see fit, and at your own risk. All information, products, services that have been provided should be independently verified by your own qualified professionals. By reading this manual, you agree that Tanya Rae, The-Beauty-Book.com and Rae Creative, Inc. are not responsible for the success or failure of your business, any gain or loss of profit or any other damages related to decisions based on any information presented in this guide. Additionally, The-Beauty-Book.com and Rae Creative, Inc. has an affiliate program with various shopping sites, wherein Rae Creative Inc. receives a portion of the sales price when sales originate from The-Beauty-Book.com. We are committed to recommending quality products which we believe in and are in no way influenced by our involvement in said affiliate programs. Trademarks: This book identifies product names and services known to be trademarks, registered trademarks, or service marks of their respective holders. They are used throughout this book in an editorial fashion only. In addition, terms suspected of being trademarks, registered trademarks, or service marks have been appropriately capitalized, although Rae Creative, Inc. cannot attest to the accuracy of this information. Use of a term in this book should not be regarded as affecting the validity of any trademark, registered trademark, or service mark. All contents copyright © 2011-2013 by The-Beauty-Book.com and Rae Creative, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this document or the related files may be reproduced or transmitted in any form, by any means (electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the publisher.
© 2012 Rae Creative, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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T he Beauty Book
Makeup Kit Manual
I wanted to write this because I remember how completely overwhelming it was to build a makeup kit from scratch. I am sure you are probably wondering all of the same things I was... * What types of makeup should I buy? * What are the must-have items every makeup artist should carry? * What should I buy first? * Which brands are better than others? * Is their any real difference between drugstore cosmetics and department store brands? I did a lot of asking around and bought tons of different makeup. Honestly, I didn’t even realize what some of it was used for. I just bought based on what other people mentioned or the latest product showcased in Allure magazine. There was definitely a lot of trial and error. Then one day I got to see what a professional makeup artist used. Oh! That’s what a kit is supposed to look like. So I went back to rearranging my kit. I can tell you the only thing I have consistently used from my original kit are some of my brushes and Dermacolor brand mini concealer palettes. I had no idea that building a great makeup kit wasn’t going to happen overnight - I literally thought I could just go out a buy one. Building a professional makeup kit is a "work in motion". Over time you will find that you have some favorite products that you can’t live without. Your friends will recommend products to you. You will test out products that you simply just don't find a need for and so on. The unbelievable part is that you will get to play with makeup for a living so be patient and have fun!
xo Rae a y Tan
If you have any questions or just want to say hello please feel free to get in touch with me. You can reach me on Twitter @thebeautybook, my Facebook Page or my email [email protected]. Hope you enjoy!
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A li!le bit about how this guide wor"...
We will touch on all of the main kit essentials and give a brief overview on the different types of makeup. Tips on what to look for when choosing makeup for other people. What you can skimp on and what you can’t. Makeup artist must-haves - what are the staples in every makeup artist’s kit. Suggested brands at different price points. The idea is for you to build a great workable base kit, something to get you started. You will always be freshening up your kit and adding to it but in the meantime let's begin with the basics. Something to give you the confidence that you can walk into any job setting, armed with the tools you will need to do fabulous work.
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Section 1: Tools
This is a beauty kit investment. The right tools can be the difference between creating a flawless face or creating a beauty faux pas. You are an artist! So think of yourself as a modern day Michelangelo and your client's faces are the Sistine Chapel. This doesn't mean you have to break the bank - you just have to know what to look for.
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Brush#
First and most important is quality. You will use these tools everyday and with proper care, they will last for years. Check the handles, do they seem flimsy? What about the bristles, are they coarse? Do they shed their hair right away? Take a pass. It's better to spend a little extra in the beginning on a good set rather than skimping and constantly replacing brushes. I bought my first set of Japonesque brushes in 1999 and to be honest I still have (and use) a good portion of them. Thru the years I built a brush set around them. I have bought from every major brand - MAC, Sephora, Shu Uemura, Kevyn Aucoin, random beauty supplies, indie brands, trade shows, art supplies, Target, etc. I have tried and tested so many. Some of them were kit worthy, some weren't. Some I loved and bought three or four of each. One thing I learned is that it's not necessarily about the brand name but about the quality and the functionality. Start out with a good basic set until you get used to working with them. You can either purchase a pre-made brush set or customize your own. Some people prefer large brushes, I myself prefer smaller ones. Like anything else, over time you will have favorite brushes and brushes that you never touch. My advice start simple and add as needed. Synthetic vs Animal Hair Synthetic brushes are usually made up of nylon or taklon and tend to work best with cremes and liquids. Because of the nature of their make up (no pun intended) synthetic brushes allow cream makeup to adhere to the bristles for an even application. Natural brushes are usually made up of a mix of different animal hair such as pony, squirrel, sable, etc. The type of hair will determine the shape and softness of the brush. Natural hair works best with powder based makeup. Vegan brands have become very popular lately. If this is something you feel very strongly about, feel free to experiment with synthetics. With regards to reactions from natural brushes, I have yet to see that happen.
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Brush#
1
2
3
4
5
6
7 8 9 10 11 12 13
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1. Powder Brush - A large fluffy brush used to apply loose or pressed powder. 2. Blush Brush - A medium to large sized brush used to apply blush and blend evenly into the skin. 3. Bronzer Brush - A flat brush perfect for applying bronzer to cheekbones, forehead, chin, shoulder and décolletage. 4. Foundation Brush - A large brush with firm bristles used to apply foundation. 5. Concealer Brush - A smaller flat brush used to cover blemishes, dark spots, under-eye circles and any other imperfections. 6. Contour Brush - Slightly tapered brush used for contouring. The smaller size allows for more exact application on smaller areas. 7. Eyeshadow Fluff Brush - This soft full brush is perfect for applying eye shadow over the entire lid. 8. Eyeshadow Crease Brush - A soft yet firm tapered brush that allows for a precise application of shadow. 9. Eyeshadow Contour Brush - A full yet firm brush used for controlled blending. 10. Eyeliner Brush - Can be either slanted or flat with stiff bristles. Great for lining top and bottom. Can be used with liquid, cream or powder liners. 11. Angled Brush - The tapered angle allows for a precise application of eye liners and brow powders. Look for a firm angled brush. 12. Lip Brush - They come in various lengths, with lids, without lids and retractable. Choose whichever you find easiest to work with. 13. Eyebrow Spooly Brush - Used for brushing the brows while grooming or cutting. Also used for blending brow liner or shadow.
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Tools
Palettes Palettes are the best way to slim your kit down and keep you super organized. Try to determine what your needs are for the immediate future and buy accordingly. Remember, you can always add more as your kit grows. They come in two main types: Shadow palettes - they hold your pressed powder makeup e.g. eye shadows, blush, bronzers, etc. Cream palettes - these vary more in size but are great for anything cream e.g. foundation, concealer, lipstick, cream blush, highlighter, etc. Lash Curler This is a scissor-like apparatus used to curl lashes. They come in metal, plastic, full and half sizes. It is a necessity. My advice - it’s worth the splurge. The drugstore brands just don’t work that well. Tweezers You will use these to tweeze your clients brows and to apply false lashes. Slanted or pointed, it’s a personal choice so use what you are comfortable with. Brow Scissors Small cuticle style scissors that are used for grooming the brows, cutting false lashes, etc. Lash Comb Tiny little travel comb used for separating lashes after mascara. Look for a comb with metal bristles, the plastic bristles tend to break easily. Pencil Sharpener Look for a dual sharpener, one that works for slim and jumbo sized pencils. Try to find one with a lid to catch the shavings too. Mixing Palette A flat metal or plastic palette used to mix makeup on. You can find at any beauty or art supply. Spatulas Metal or plastic flat spatula used to scoop out makeup. You can also work off of spatula as you would a mixing palette.
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Disposabl#:
Wedge Sponges Used to apply foundation and blending any makeup into the skin. A wedge style will allow for an even application in the hardest to reach areas. Look for a sponge that doesn’t crumble or soak up the makeup. *Tip: Latex allergies are quite common so look for brands that say latex free. Mascara Wands Excellent for keeping your mascara clean and bacteria free. Lip Brushes Great way to keep your lip brushes free from germs or bacteria. especially useful if a client is sick or suffers from cold sores. They are
Cotton Pads Look for a brand that doesn’t disintegrate in water or leave little cotton fibers on the skin. Q-tips Perfect blending and erasing makeup in even the smallest areas. Again, look for a brand that leave little fibers behind. Blot Papers Papers or sheets that absorbs excess oil and shine from the face. Look for sheets that don’t leave a powder residue behind.
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Section 2: Makeup
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Skin Care
Prepping the skin is the first step to any makeup application. You will need to have some basic skin care on hand to start off with. Moisturizer - ideally you will want to have two different types to suit your clients needs. A light moisturizer for oily skin and a heavier moisturizer for normal to dry skin. Lip Balms - perfect for relieving dry or chapped lips. Keep a thicker more emollient lip balm for really dry lips and a regular lip balm that coats the lips but doesn't leave a shine. Makeup Remover - look for an “eye” makeup remover since they tend to be more gentle. Wipes - an excellent way to remove makeup or freshen up the skin prior to application. *Tip: Skip the brand name makeup remover wipes - they tend to leave behind an oily residue and go for the drugstore baby wipes. Eye Drops - used to relieve redness and brighten the eyes. Can also work double duty by taking the redness out of a blemish - simply add a couple drops onto a q-tip and lightly hold over the blemish.
Extras -
Makeup Primer - used to smooth and even out the skin before you apply makeup. They come in liquid, gel or balm form. Look for primers that don’t dry out the skin or flake under makeup. They can be great for people with really oily skin.
Tips
Makeup primers can be on the expensive side, so if it’s out of your budget right now, skip it. Your client’s makeup will last just as long with moisturizer on the skin.
Lip Exfoliators - they exfoliate any dry flaky skin from the lips. Facial Mists - freshens up the skin and makeup after a long day.
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Foundation
The basic idea of foundation is to give the skin a fresh natural glow. A beautiful foundation application will minimize imperfections while still letting the skin shine thru. Now, to achieve that look you will need to know a little bit about the actual makeup. Foundations come in a few different types and textures. Cream Foundation - gives the option of a full coverage look when applied directly with a sponge or can be sheered out with a foundation brush and damp sponge. They come in both cream and stick varieties. Since cream foundations are usually oil-based they are the best choice for dry, mature and darker skin types. Liquid Foundation - gives a medium coverage with a choice of matte or dewey finishes. They have the option of being oil-based or water-based. Liquid foundation works well on normal to oily skin types. If you like the look but need a little more coverage apply a layer, wait until it sets and apply a second layer. Tinted Moisturizer - gives a hint of coverage. This is for that little extra glow on top of flawless skin. *The term oil-based usually scares people but for a makeup artist this is a welcomed description. First off, oil & water don't mix so the makeup will hold up under tears, sweat, heat and humidity. Another plus, the pigments in oil-based makeup last longer so you don't have to worry about the color fading or changing under hot lights and long hours. Cream vs. Liquid I am advocate of starting out with cream foundation. I just find them more versatile in terms of coverage, skin types and holding up under different work conditions. Liquid foundations tend to have a shorter shelf life than cream foundations. If you want to add a couple to your kit, pick one or two shades that you will use most often so you will get your money's worth.
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Creams are easier to carry - just scoop them into a palette and you are good to go. Another benefit of creams, because of the heavier consistency they can double as a concealer or you can layer them to use as tattoo, vein and scar cover.
Extras Iridescent Foundation - gives a light shimmer or sheen to the skin and comes in both liquid and cream. Keep in mind this type of foundation will maximize pores and imperfections so use sparingly on anyone with than less perfect skin.
Concealer
Concealer is used to hide all of those unsightly imperfections. Choose the right kind and you can erase all evidence of under-eye circles, blemishes, scars, broken blood vessels, birthmarks or any other discoloration on the face. Concealers can come cream, liquid and pencil form. Their consistencies vary from light coverage to dry & opaque. While they all have their benefits, dry and opaque will serve you best in the beginning. This will usually offer the most coverage and staying power. They tend to stay exactly where you put them and you can be really exact with your application. Keep in mind, a little goes a long way so start out light and add as needed to avoid a look that's too heavy. Different shades of concealer can make for excellent highlighting & contouring. Add a drop of moisturizer on your palette and mix with concealer for really dry skin.
Extras Under Eye Highlighters - they are a sheer based cream with a bit of light reflectant property in them. They are used mainly to brighten up the under eye area, either on their own or with concealer over top.
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Powder
Makeup artist's use powder to set their makeup and tone down shine. Powders come in translucent as well as a variety of hues. Used alone opaque colored powders can act as a foundation. When used over regular foundation you have to be careful with color matching because it can change the entire makeup look. If you can only buy one type of powder at first, go for translucent. They come in both loose and compact forms and can be applied with a brush. Translucent powders are perfect for eliminating shine without adding color or looking too heavy. The best part is that they work with every skin color from the palest of pale to the darkest of dark.
Blush & Bronzer
This is one of the categories that I think you should splurge a little on. When choosing a blush or bronzer, look for one that glides on soft and easily, it should have silky feel to it. If it "skips" on the skin it's not a good formula. Avoid anything too metallic, it will cheapen the look and maximize pores or wrinkles. Go for soft and shimmery, this will look beautiful on every skin color.
Blush
The purpose of blush is to brighten the face and add a youthful glow. The color can look translucent and ethereal or more prominent with a pop of color. Blush can come in liquid and stain, cream or powder. They range in color from pale pinks to dark plums. Liquid / Stain - is a concentrated color so use sparingly at first. It packs lots of color but the right shade can give a soft flushed look. Best used with a flawless complexion. Cream Blush - is highly
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pigmented but it's texture allows for easier application. The cream consistency makes it perfect for dry skin. Look for a blush that blends into the skin easily and the color will look like it's glowing from within. Powder Blush - comes in mattes, velvets with soft light reflectants or more shimmery textures. Powder blush will give you the most versatility in terms of use. It will last longer, is easier to layer than a cream blush and is suitable for all skin types. Keep in mind, if you buy something too dull it will never give that extra pop of color. A blush that looks too bright in the package can be applied in soft layers to achieve a healthy glow. My blush of choice - blush with soft shimmer and lots of color. Start out with just three to four blush colors at first and add as you need. Fair skin - pink and peach toned blush Medium skin - pink, rosy-pink toned blush Dark skin - plum and orange-red toned blush
Color Guide
Bronzer
The idea behind bronzer is to look healthy and sun kissed. They come in cream, pressed powder and loose powder form and can range in color and texture. Cream Bronzer - can be sheer or highly pigmented. Powder Bronzer - comes in pressed or loose powder and in matte and shimmer textures. Matte bronzers tend to look a little flat. A soft shimmer texture will give a warm glow. Start out with one or two bronzers, one for fair skin and one for medium to dark.
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Ey#hadow
Build your shadow palette with mostly powder based products. While creams look beautiful, they require constant touch up since they crease so quickly, great for a photo shoot but not so much for real life. Long-wear formulas can make eyelids over the age of twenty-ish look crepey. Look for shadows that have strong pigment and blend really well. Start out with neutrals, warm flesh tones, deep hues for smoky eyes and a few vibrant fun colors at first. This color palette tends to look beautiful on everyone and will give you the most options. Fair skin - soft white, bone, pale yellow, pale peach, warm tan, taupe, heather gray, warm brown, slate gray, navy. Medium Skin - bone, pale yellow, soft golds, warm tans, soft bronze, peachy pinks, warm & deep browns, slate gray, navy, coal black. Dark Skin - soft golds, amber, warm orange, tan, deep bronze, burgundy, coffee brown, coal, jet black.
Color Guide
* Choose shadows in the velvet, pearl or luster categories, they allow for a more even application and give a richer look. Try to avoid anything frost – they look dated and tend to make more mature eyelids look older.
Extras -
Trendy colors, shadow gloss, glitter - while they are sooo much fun to play with they are just not practical for everyday use. Pick them up as needed.
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Eye Liner
Eyeliner comes in three main types of formulas: pencil, creme/gel and liquid. Pencil - a wax based pencil that comes in a regular or kohl formula and in a variety of shades. Perfect for smudging, lining the inner rims or drawing a “cheat line”. My favorite pencils are kohl. They have more depth and they glide onto the eye making them easier to work with. Try to avoid pencils that are stiff, they pull and drag at the eye, causing irritation. Start out with your basic colors such as black, brown, smoke and white. Feel free to add other colors as you need them. Creme/Gel - comes in a solid cream form but can be easily applied with a brush. Works well as alternative to liquid. Liquid - comes in a liquid form, either waterproof or non, in a variety of colors. You will need a brush for application. Great for creating sharp, precise lines. Make it waterproof! You want longevity with eyeliner and most non-waterproof formulas chip, flake and smudge. Look for an opaque consistency. The liner shouldn’t look see through when you apply it. Start out with one black and one brown and add colors as you need. Most importantly choose the formula type you are most comfortable using. You can always make the switch later on.
Tips
Brows
A good brow can make or break your client’s look, so the proper makeup is essential . Brow products consist of pencils, powders, gel & cream fillers and gel wands. They come in blonde / taupe, soft reds and browns. Brow Pencils - specifically made for brows. Harder than an eyeliner pencil, easily blendable but smudge proof. Perfect for brows that need a lot of filling in or just a little.
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Powders - come in powder form similar to an eyeshadow. Use with a light hand since they can go on heavy. Gel/Cream - used to recreate a full or missing piece of a brow. This may take some practice but has real staying power. Gel Wands - a gel formula in a mascara-like tube used to control difficult brows. Comes in clear and various shades. If you are new to brow products start out with pencil first, it’s the most versatile and easiest to use. Blonde pencil for blondes, soft redheads and light brunettes. Soft brown pencil for dark brunettes. For women with grey or silver hair, use whatever their former natural color was. A clear gel wand works with every brow color.
Color Guide
Mascara
Ahhh, mascara. The one product most women will never leave home without. There are two factors that make a fabulous mascara - the formula and the wand. Well, you will be using disposable wands so you only need to find a formula that you love. Keep it simple. Look for waterproof and non-clumping. The same as with eyeliner, the non-waterproof formulas flake and run so waterproof is always your best bet. Always choose a hypoallergenic formula. Always, always use black - unless a client specifically asks for brown.
Lash#
We love our lashes! False eyelashes can make the eyes look bigger, sexier and more glamorous so it’s a no brainer why women want to wear them. Try to stock up on individual lashes rather than strips at first. They come in various lengths so you can customize them for each client. Apply a few for a really natural look or a lot for drama.
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Tips
For everyday clients the most commonly used size is “small”. For women with really short lashes mix in some of the “under” size.
Lash Glue - Comes in either clear or dark. When you are first learning to apply lashes use the clear, this will allow for a little wiggle room with the application. Once your are adept at it, switch over to the black for a more streamlined look.
Extras Fantasy Strip Lashes - Tons of fun but you can hold off until a job requires you to have them.
Lips
Lipsticks - cream based color, these come a variety of textures and an endless rainbow of hues. Look for lipsticks with creamy textures, they are easier to apply and mix together, plus they will look fresh on more mature or dry lips. It's safe to have a matte red or two on hand. Skip the long wear formulas, they are too drying. And avoid anything frosty, it will date the look. Start out with the basics. Nude, soft pink, pale peach, coral, bright pink, rose, red (a blue-red & a scarlet red), deep plum & chestnut. Lip Gloss - Gloss is the perfect way to add shine, a little shimmer or a pop of color to any lip. Look for a light wearable formula, nothing too sticky. Try to avoid anything super shiny unless the job calls for it.
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Tinted Lip Balm - Lip balm that gives a hint of color. Perfect for the younger set or when you are going for a natural look. Since the color is usually very sheer, pick brighter hues such as rosy pinks, cherry reds & berry tones. Lip Liners - a wax-based pencil used to even out the lip line. Great for use as a lip base and to prevent the lipstick from bleeding. I love lip liners because they give you so many options. You can create the illusion of fuller lips. Use it alone to line and fill in the lips, top with a lip balm and viola, you have a lip color. Top it with a lipstick and you have created a new variation to your lip color. The possibilities are endless.
Tips
You will want to have a good color selection on hand. Nude, natural, pink, coral, red, mahogany, currant or plum & chocolate.
Body
Body Makeup - gives the body a sheer wash of color, usually a shade or two darker than the model’s skin color. This will be a photo shoot necessity. Body Lotion / Oil - used to soften and moisturize dry skin.
Misc. Nec#siti#
Brush Cleaner - Look for a quick dry formula to use in between clients. Alcohol - Great to have on hand for sanitizing and removing skin adhesive.
Extras Traynor Face / Neck Lift Tapes - Used to pull the face and/or neck back to give a temporary face lift.
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Section 3: Products
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Is there a difference between drug store and department store cosmetics?
Well... yes and no. A beauty insider secret - some of the large drugstore cosmetics companies own the department store brands. The larger the company, the more research and development they can do which means better ingredients. And, if a product doesn’t work they have the ability to revamp it quickly. For example, L'Oreal owns Lancome. Their formulas and textures are very similar. There are some slight differences but if you find something you love from Lancome, chances are you will find the same something you love from L'Oreal. If you do your beauty brand research you can find out which brand is in which beauty family and you can make smarter purchases. Now this being said, there are some major department store lines that are in a class all of their own as far as color payoff and texture are concerned. That's why they can charge the big bucks. One of the bigger drawbacks to shopping at a drugstore is that you can't test out the product. Sometimes that added benefit is worth a little bit more in terms of money. Truth be told, beauty experts have tried and true favorites from every brand which leads us to the fun part - shopping!!
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Beauty Products
Section 1: Tools
Brushes $$$ Shu Uemura, $$ Sephora Collection $ Crown Brush Palettes Shadow & Powder Palettes $$ Z Palette $$ MAC Pro Palettes Cream Palettes $$$ Japonesque Cream Palette Organizers $$ Z Palette Lash Curler
Makeup Artist Must Have - Shu Uemura
$$$ Kevyn Aucoin The Eyelash Curler Tweezers $$ Tweezerman Slant or Point Tweezer $ Revlon Expert Tweezers Slant Tip Brow Scissors $$ Tweezerman Stainless Facial Hair Scissors $ Revlon Brow Set Lash Comb $$ Vincent Longo Lash Definer Eyelash Comb $ Sonia Kashuk Lash Comb Pencil Sharpener $$ Urban Decay Grind House Double Barrel Sharpener $ Alcone Black Professional Pencil Sharpener for Rounded Tips
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Disposabl#
Wedge Sponges $$$ Beauty Blender Ultimate Sponge Makeup Applicator $$ Alcone Non-Latex Sponges $ CVS Essence of Beauty Wedges Mascara Wands $$ Ricky’s NYC Rickycare Large Mascara Wands $ Face Secrets Professional Disposable Mascara Wands Lip Brushes $$ Ricky’s NYC Rickycare White-Bristle Lip Brush $ Face Secrets Professional Disposable Lip Brushes Cotton Pads $$ Shiseido The Makeup Facial Cotton $ CVS Cotton Rounds Blotting Papers $$$ Shiseido Pureness Oil-Control Blotting Paper $ Clean & Clear Oil Absorbing Sheets
Section 2: T he Makeup
Skin Care
Dry Skin Moisturizer $$$ La Mer Creme de la Mer Moisturizing Cream $$ Embryolisse Lait Creme Concentre $ Cetaphil Cream Moisturizer Normal to Combination Skin Moisturizer $$ John Masters Organics Green Tea & Rose $ Desert Essence Jojoba Oil Oily Skin Moisturizer $$$ DDF Ultra-Lite Oil-Free Moisturizing Dew $ Neutrogena Oil-Free Moisture, Sensitive Skin
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Lip Balms
Makeup Artist Must Have - Smith’s Rosebud Salve
$$ Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream $ Chapstick Makeup Remover $$ Lancome Bi-Facil Eye Makeup Remover $ Almay Oil-Free Makeup Eraser Sticks Makeup Wipes $$$ Korres Wipes $ CVS Brand Toddler Wipes Eye Drops $$$ Original Laiter Collyre Bleu Eye Drops $ Visine Advanced Relief Redness Reliever Eye Drops
Extras:
Makeup Primer $$$ Hourglass Veil Mineral Primer $$ Make Up For Ever HD Microperfecting Primer in “Neutral” $ Sephora Collection Perfecting Ultra-Smoothing Primer in Clear Lip Exfoliator $$$ Bliss Fabulips Sugar Lip Scrub $ e.l.f. Studio Lip Exfoliator Facial Mists $$$ Arcona Lavender Hydrasol $ Evian Facial Mist
Foundation
Creme Foundation
Makeup Artist Must Have - RCMA
$$$ Cle de Peau Cream Foundation $ Revlon Colorstay Whipped Creme Makeup Liquid Foundation $$$ Amani Luminous Silk Foundation $ L’Oreal Paris True Match Super Blendable Makeup
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Tinted Moisturizer $$$ Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer $$ MAC Face & Body Foundation
Concealer Makeup Artist Must Have - Dermacolor Mini Palette
Cream Concealer $$$ Cle de Peau Beaute Concealer $$ Laura Mercier Secret Concealer $$ MAC Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer Liquid Concealer $$ MAC Select Moisturecover Concealer $ Revlon Colorstay Concealer Pencil Concealer $$ Make Up For Ever Lip & Concealer Pencil $ The Body Shop Concealer Pencil Extras Under-eye Highlighters $$$ YSL Touche Eclat $$ Make Up For Ever Lift Concealer
Powder
Translucent Powder $$ MAC Blot Powder $ Ben Nye Classic Translucent Face Powder in “Neutral Set” Color Powder $$$ Chanel Poudre Universelle Compacte $$ Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation $ Revlon Colorstay Pressed Powder $ CoverGirl Queen Collection Lasting Matte Pressed Powder
Blush
Liquid/Stain Blush $$$ Tarte Cheek Stain $$ The Balm Stainiac
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Cream Blush $$ Stila Convertible Color $ Mark Just Pinched Blush Instant Blush Tint Powder Blush $$$ Nars Powder Blush $$ MAC Powder Blush
Bronzer
Cream Bronzer $$$ Nars The Multiple Powder Bronzer $$$ Guerlain Terracotta Bronzing Powder $ L’Oreal Paris Glam Bronzing Powder
Ey#hadow
Powder Eyeshadow $$ MAC Eye Shadow, MAC Pigment $ L’Oreal HiP Studio Secrets Professional Shocking Pigments Eye Palettes $$$ Dior 5-Colour Eyeshadow Palette $$ Viseart Eyeshadow Palette $ Maybelline New York Expert Wear Shadow Quad Extras Cream Eyeshadow $$$ Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow $$ Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream $ Maybelline EyeStudio Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow
Eye Liner
Pencil Eye Liner $$$ Le Crayon Kohl $$ MAC Eye Kohl $ Maybelline New York EyeStudio Master Drama Cream Pencil Creme/Gel Eye Liner $$ Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner $ Maybelline New York Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Liner
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Liquid Eye Liner $$ Make Up For Ever Pro Waterproof Eyeliner $ Maybelline New York Eye Studio Master Precise Ink Pen Eyeliner
Brows
Brow Pencils $$ Lancome Le Crayon Poudre Powder Pencil $ L’Oreal Paris Brow Stylist Custom Brow Shaping Pencil Brow Powders $$ Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Powder Duo Brow Gel/Cream $$ Laura Mercier Brow Definer Gel Wands $$ Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Gel $ Sonia Kashuk Brow Gel
Mascara Makeup Artist Must Have - L’Oreal Paris Voluminous Waterproof Mascara
$$ Dior Diorshow Waterproof Mascara $$ Lancome Definicils - High Definition Waterproof Mascara $ Maybelline The Falsies Volume Express
Lash#
Individual Flares $$ Ardell Lashes $ Helena Collection Strip Lashes $$$ Shu Uemura False Lashes $ Alcone Company Eye Lash Glue
Makeup Artist Must Have - Duo Adhesive
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Lips
Lipsticks $$$ Nars Lipstick $$ MAC Lipstick $ Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick Lip Gloss $$$ Chanel Levres Scintillantes Glossimer $$ Sephora Collection Ultra Shine Lip Gloss $ L’Oreal Infallible Never Fail Lip Gloss Tinted Lip Balm $$ Laura Mercier HydraTine Lip Balm SPF 15 $ Burt’s Bees Tinted Lip Balm Lip Liners $$$ Nars Velvet Matte Lip Pencil $$ MAC Lip Pencil $ Sonia Kashuk Velvety Matte Lip Crayon
Body
Body Makeup
Makeup Artist Must Have - Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs
$$$ Scott Barnes Body Bling $$ MAC Face & Body $ Mario Badescu Summer Shine Body Lotion
Body Lotion / Oil $ Jergens Ultra Healing Extra Dry Skin Moisturizer $ Aura Cacia Apricot Kernel Oil
Misc. Nec#siti#
Brush Cleaner
Makeup Artist Must Have - Parian Spirit
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T he Beauty Book
Makeup Kit Manual
Thank you so much!
I really hope you enjoyed this eBook as much as I loved writing it. I can’t thank you enough for your continued support of The Beauty Book and everything I do. I appreciate each and every one of you for taking time out of your lives to read this. If you have an extra minute, I would love to hear any thoughts you might have at www.the-beauty-book.com. Likewise, if I can be of help or offer any advice feel free to email me [email protected]. I read all of my emails and comments so reach out any time! Lastly, if you haven’t already, you can follow me on Twitter @thebeautybook and help with the conversations on my Facebook Page. Thanks again, and I wish you tons of success on your makeup journey!
xo ae R a Tany
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