my make-up book

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Machiajul si proportiile fetei tale.
Wed, 5 Jan 2011 | Published in Lectii de machiaj 24Share

Primul pas, si cel mai important int-un machiaj, este sa depistezi care sint particularitatile fetei tale: ce forma are fata, ce forma au ochii, buzele, nasul, sprincenele. In dependenta de specificul chipului tau poti determina ce fel de makeup ti se potriveste cel mai bine. Asa ca inarmeaza-te cu un pix(creion), o foaie A4 si sa incercam sa aflam ce ti se potriveste tie in mod special. Poate nu esti o mare amatoare de geometrie insa uite ca va fi nevoie sa iti aduci aminte de ceva lectii din scoala. Nu e cazul sa faci arta insa incearca sa reproduci imaginea de mai jos,desenind un oval si

trasind liniile indicate: Pe desen notam citeva dimensiuni si litere semnificatia carora o sa ti-o explic pe parcurs. Buun. Acum primul lucru care trebuie facut este sa determini tipul de fata pe care il ai si proportiile fetei tale. Fata conditionat-perfecta este impartita in trei parti egale: Superioara(BC), partea de mijloc( CE) si cea inferioara (EF). Aceasta diviziune este efectuata de catre patru linii imaginare: - Prima linie-marginea superioara a fruntii, unde se termina linia de crestere a parului, - A doua linie – realizata deasupra nasului prin punctul de incepere a sprincenelor, - A treilea – prin punctul de la baza nasului, - A patra – tangenta la virful barbiei. Linia de la nivelul pupilelor imparte intregul cap in parti egale (AD=DF). Latimea nasului in

zona narilor este egala cu distanta dintre colturile interioare ale ochilor (OR=KL), la rindul sau, aceasta distanta este egala cu lungimea ochiului (Distanta colt interior – exterior): KL=PK. Latimea nasului in zona narilor este egala si cu distanta dintre inceputul sprincenelor : OR=ST Sprincenele corecte ar trebui sa inceapa de la punctul de intersectie cu linia dreapta trasata prin aripa narii si coltul interior al ochiului(OS), si se termina la intersectia liniei drepte trasate prin aripa narii si coltul exterior al ochiului(OP) . Distanta de la coltul interior al ochiului pina la locul de unde incep sprincenele trebuie sa fie egala cu aproximativ 1/3 din lungimea nasului, adica KS=1/3OS. Etalon se considera fata cu linia fruntii, pometilor si maxilarelor conturate lin si care se inscrie intr-un oval, avind trasaturile simetrice. Insa nu dispera daca ai alta forma, exista foarte multe metode care permit sa apropii fata ta de ideal. De exemplu fruntea prea mare poate fi corectata cu ajutorul bretonului, ea scurtind-o vizual. Poate fi corectata si cu ajutorul modificarii sprincenelor. Deschiderea, iluminarea fruntii, va mari vizual acest domeniu. Zona nasului este scurtata sau prelungita vizual in dependenta de schimbarea formei sprincenelor, si anume smulgerea sprancenelor astfel incit acestea sa fie amplasate mai sus sau mai jos. Zona barbiei poate fi corectata cu ajutorul fondului de ten cu nuante mai inchisa sau mai deschisa decit tenul si cu ajutorul rujului, folosit pentru a mari sau micsora buze. In articolele urmatoare o sa te invat cum sa corectezi forma fetei ca sa o apropii cit mai mult de oval si cum sa maschezi micile probleme ale partilor chipului tau . Ca tema pentru acasa te-as ruga sa faci desenul de mai sus si sa incerci sa mai desenezi alaturi si fata ta. Inarmeaza-te cu o rigla si fa ceva masurari. O sa iti fie de mare folos in continuare, caci in dependenta de specificul, proportiile fetei tale vei selecta machiajul care ti se potriveste cel mai bine si care scoate in evidenta frumusetea ta.

How to Apply Mascara
15 Mascara Tricks and Tips
Maybelline Great Lash Mascara -- The #1 Choice of Makeup Artists

How to Properly Apply Mascara
Ace your mascara application with a 3-step process: 1. Step 1: Wiggle the wand left to right at the base of lashes. It's the mascara placed near the roots -- not the tips -- that gives the illusion of length. 2. Step 2: Pull the wand up and through lashes, wiggling as you go. The wiggling part is key because it separates lashes.

3. Step 3: In this final step (which I always skip), close the eye and place the mascara wand on top of lashes at the base and pull through to remove any clumps.

Pick the Best Mascara for You
When picking a mascara, you should consider the formula you want (lengthening, thickening, waterproof or non-clumping). Learn more about your options in How to Pick the Right Mascara Formula. You should also consider price. You can get a good basic drugstore mascara or spend more money on a luxurious mascara. I find the fancier mascaras go on with less clumping and last longer, but it's likely no one would be able to tell if you were wearing a drugstore brand or a department store brand. See Should you splurge on mascara, or save?. I prefer Lancome mascaras and I always use waterproof mascara in summer time or when skiing. Check out my list of the best mascaras on the market for your perfect fit. Most drugstores and department stores have excellent return policies so if you try a mascara and hate it you can return it. Never try mascara on at a department store, there's too much risk for infection. Instead, check out the store's return policy and take a few home to try. Also, don't get suckered into a full-makeover at the cosmetics counter (see How They Trick You at the Cosmetics Counter).

How to Keep Lashes From Clumping
For some, lash combs are simply too fussy. But for some makeup artists, they're a great invention and keep lashes glob-free and perfectly separated. To use a lash comb, first apply mascara at the lash base, then wiggle the lash comb through to the tips of your lashes. Not into the lash comb? Get rid of clumbs without them by removing excess mascara from the wand. Wipe wand on tissue, this eliminates blobs BEFORE you start. Another great way to get rid of clumps is to sweep a clean, fresh mascara wand through lashes when they're wet. Either buy new ones or recycle old ones. Buy clean mascara wands online (they're called "spoolies" or at Sephora.

Recycle an old mascara wand if you don't want to bother with spoolies. When you finish a mascara, clean the wand in a cap-full of eye makeup remover, then wash with soap and dry. Keep it clean by washing it whenever you wash your makeup tools.

Don't Be Afraid to Mix Mascaras
A trick makeup artists use to make lashes pop is apply one coat of lengthening mascara, followed by one coat of thickening mascara. Remove excess product with a clean spoolie wand (see above).

Try a Colored Mascara
Basic mascara rules are simple: Black works for everyone but can be harsh on lightskinned blondes. Blondes should opt for brown/black by day and reserve black for night. Burgundy or plum colors make blue eyes pop, as do blue mascaras. Purple mascara looks great on brown eyes.

Use an Eyelash Curler
Curling lashes gives eyes the appearance of being wider and brighter. Shoot warm air from your blowdryer on the mascara curler for 3-5 seconds to warm it up before curling lashes. Touch it first to make sure it's not too hot. It's a myth that you have to curl lashes before you apply mascara. You can curl lashes after mascara application, just make sure the mascara is dry first. Shu Uemura eyelash curlers are super popular.

Zig-zag the Mascara Wand
Zig-zagging the wand back and forth during application helps cut down clumps.

Apply to Top Lashes Only
Many makeup artists recommend applying mascara only to the top lashes (I abide by this rule). If you want to make eyes appear wider, apply mascara to the bottom lashes but make sure you give lashes a light touch. Not great at getting those bottom lashes? Try putting a tissue under them before application.

Use a Mascara Primer

Primers coat lashes and separate them before you apply mascara. Makeup artists swear by mascara primer. I tried it and like it, but because it's an added step, I usually use primer only on special occasion when I spend more time on my makeup. My hands-down favorite is Lancome's Cils Booster XL.

What it Means to "Apply a 2nd Coat" of Mascara
I was always confused by magazine's directives to coat eyelashes with "no more than 3 coats of mascara." It seems magazines have been giving these directions since I was a pre-teen and likely before. What they mean is to apply the coats of mascara all at once before the first coat dries. Once the first coat dries, you'll get clumps if you attempt another swipe at the lashes.

Thou Shalt Not Pump Wand In & Out of Tube
This only introduces air into the tube, which will cause your mascara to dry out sooner than it should.

Bend the Wand
A top makeup artist once gave his secret to his steady hand: he always bends his wand at a right angle.

Wait to Blink & Doublecheck Once Dry
Since I have long lashes, I try to wait 5 seconds before blinking after I apply mascara or I end up with mascara dots all along my lid. I also doublecheck my lids before I step out because chances are good, I've got those dots going on and it's embarrassing to find out hours later that you've done a poor makeup job on yourself when you're a beauty editor by trade.
Want thicker, lusher lashes? Try this quick tip: Apply lengthening mascara followed by thickening mascara. (Yes, the types of mascaras really do mean something, it's not just a marketing ploy). Just be sure to apply the second coat before the first one dries. Check out these 15 other mascara tips and tricks:

3 Different Mascaras - - Which is For You?

When you stand at the makeup counter or aisle, it can be confusing. Should you get lengthening, curling, thickening or non-smudging? And what, just what, is the difference between each of these anyway? (Is there a difference, or are these mascara types all hype, designed to get you to buy more than one type?) According to Allure's October 2010 issue, you can tell a lot by a mascara by the shape of the wand. Fat brushes (like Lancome's Hypnose mascara, my favorite), create voluptuous lashes, while skinny brushes (such as Lancome's Definicils) will coat each lash perfectly without clumping or adding much oomph. Curved wands will help curl lashes. Now onto the different formulas.

Lengthening mascara
My favorite mascara is Lancome Definicils. It's touted as a lengthening mascara and beauty editors swear by it. Lengthening mascaras have dense bristles that allow you to get more mascara on your lashes and especially on the tips of your lashes.

Thickening mascara
When you want bulk, you do want to buy the mascaras touted as "thickening." These products contain a thicker formula of waxes and silicone polymers that coat lashes and make them appear bulkier. The most popular thickening mascara on the market is Christian Dior's Diorshow(about $24).

Waterproof mascara
Obviously these "non-smudging" mascaras contain special synthetic formulas meant to repel moisture. But these can be harsh on your lashes (to prevent breaking lashes, you can put Vaseline on them before you go to sleep). A great waterproof mascara is Maybelline Lash Discovery.

Non-clumping mascara
These contain ingredients like silk extract and glycerin. The applicators also have longer wands which allow for a more even application.

Question: When Should I Throw Out Mascara? Answer: Mascara is one makeup product in your bag that you want to keep tabs on. It's a breeding ground for bacteria. Most mascaras with a tube & a wand have an antibacterial agent in them that last about 6 weeks making you safe for at least a couple months & likely safe up to 4. You risk eye infection the longer you keep the product. If you notice the smell changes or the texture changes, throw it out. It's not worth it.

Splurge or Save?
Do you really need to spend the bucks on Shu Uemura's eyelash curler?
Save on mascara and on eyelash curlers.

I say this begrungingly because I only wear Lancome brand mascaras (mascaras being one of those beauty products people find and stick by forever), but I really don't need to be spending the money I do on mascara. Maybelline New York Great Lash Mascara has gone down forever as the best drugstore buy ever. At just $7 a tube, it's a good basic standby. L'Oreal and Max Factor also make great drugstore mascaras. Every magazine touts Shu Uemura ($15) as The Eyelash Curler everyone must have in their makeup drawer. So why then, do so many makeup artists stockpile the much cheaper Revlon Extra Curl Eyelash Curlers (about $6)? Hmmmmm......

How to Use an Eyelash Curler
How to use an eyelash curler. Curling eyelashes make your eyes look wider & brighter. Metal eyelash curlers are better than plastic. You'll want to replace the pads on the curler every 2 months. For best results, you'll want to gentrly heat the curler with a blowdryer for no more than 5 seconds. Difficulty: Easy Time Required: 3 minutes

Here's How:
1. Eyelash curlers work best on clean eyelashes. Make sure eyelashes are free of mascara. If necessary, use eye makeup remover to remove old mascara. 2. With your blowdryer on low heat, blow air on the curler for no more than 5 seconds. Touch the metal. If it's hot, let it cool for a few seconds. You don't want to burn your eyelid. 3. Open the curler, clamp lashes near the roots. Hold for 10-30 seconds. Never curl lashes after you apply mascara -- as the mascara dries, lashes can stick to the curler & be torn from the roots. Don't bother curling bottom lashes. 4. Repeat on the other eye.

Tips:
1. Want the best eyelash curler on the market? Try Shu Uemura's

What You Need:
 

Metal eyelash curler Blowdryer

False Lashes: How to Apply Them

False eyelashes are easy to apply -- if you know how False eyelashes have come a long way since the seventies when women wore huge, gaudy varieties that looked fake. These days many women wear them to enhance their eyes, whether they're celebs on the red carpet or women going about their everyday business. Here's how to apply false eyelashes so they look as natural as possible. Difficulty: Average Time Required: 10 minutes

Here's How:
1. You have several options when it comes to false lashes: A full set of false lashes or small clusters of individual lashes. If you buy a full set you can cut them into individual lashes. A full set will create lush, thick lashes, whereas individual lashes fill out your own sparse ones. No need to spend a lot of money on false lashes, you can get great ones in the drugstore beauty aisle and use them a couple times before throwing away. Shop for false eyelashes online. 2. If the lashes you bought are too long, you can trim them by cutting them at an angle. Make sure to cut each individual lash at a different length so they look more natural. Always reserve the longest clusters for the outside corners of your eyes.

3. To prep for the application, make sure your eyelid and lashes are clean of any makeup. Curl your real lashes with an eyelash curler. You can warm the curler under a blow dryer for about 3 seconds. Just make sure the metal isn't too hot for your eye. 4. Apply a liquid or pencil eyeliner to eyes to conceal the lash roots. 5. If you are applying individual lashes, put a few drops of lash glue on a hard surface. Let it dry for a minute until it becomes tacky. Use a set of tweezers to pick up eyelashes and dip the root in the adhesive. If you are using a full set, apply a thin strip of glue along the base of the lashes using a toothpick or a super fine makeup brush. Avoid applying the glue with your fingers because it gets messy fast. Wait a few seconds for the glue to dry a bit. 6. If applying individual lashes, start at the outer corner of the eyes. Take the tweezers and wedge the glued lash into your natural lashes. Hold it in place for a few seconds so it dries in place. Stay as close to the root of your real lashes as possible. You'll want a couple clusters at the outer corner of the eye and one in the center of the eye or wherever your real lashes are sparse. Make sure to leave a natural space between lashes. The secret is to keep the clusters to five or fewer and stay away from the inside of the eye. 7. If applying a strip, use your fingers to hold the lashes and apply on the lid as close to the roots as possible from the outer corner of the eye in. If you notice the lashes are too long, take them off and trim them. 8. Use a Q-tip to press lashes in place. 9. Once the false eyelashes are applied, let them dry for a couple minutes. Now you can do your eye makeup. You can create a cat eye by lining the upper lashes with a black liquid liner, drawing a wing at the outer corner of the eye and then working back from the outside in. For a less dramatic look, apply a dark eyeshadow along the upper lash line. This camouflages the false lashes.

10. Apply mascara to lashes to blend them in with your real ones.

Tips:
1. Tip: Just as you should throw away the little makeup sponges that come with eyeshadow, some experts suggest tossing the white glue that comes with false eyelashes. Instead, opt for dark eyelash adhesive, which is usually sold separately at drugstores, usually for about $5 or $6. (Check out your options here). 2. To remove false eyelashes, use an eye makeup remover like Lancome's famous Bi-Facil (shown here), applying with your fingers. Massage in the makeup remover. Your false eyelashes should slip right off. You can also try water to loosen the glue.

What You Need
  

A full set or individual lashes Eyelash adhesive Tweezers

How to Fill in Sparse Eyebrows
According to makeup experts, including Bobbi Brown in her book, "Beauty," almost every woman needs to fill in her brows as part of her normal beauty routine. Bobbi's claims are backed up by the editors of Allure's "Confessions of a Beauty Editor," who state that makeup artist Dick Page once informed them he'd never seen a model who didn't need her brows filled in. This was news to me because of all the things I do to go out, including highlighter above the brows and mascara primer (good golly, I know), filling in my brows was not something I have done, well much. Guess that's gonna change.

If like most women, you were born with sparse brows or simply went too far with the tweezers, there is a fix to filling in your eyebrows. All it takes is a pencil, powder, and an angled brush or a clean mascara brush.

Pick a Pencil and Powder Shade
Pencils and powders tend to stick to skin, not to hair, so if you don't have a lot of hair you'll want to shade in the skin where hair should grow. Select a soft pencil (hard pencils tend to be too waxy) which is a shade lighter than your brows and a powder which matches the color of brows. If brows are super fair, choose a pencil that's a shade darker than brows.

Prep the Brows
First, comb out brows with a clean mascara wand. Examine brows for any sparse spots.

Fill in With Pencil
Use the pencil to fill in the sparse spots with short, feathery strokes. Apply in the direction of hair growth. The key here is not to create a definite line, but to create the appearance of hair. Be careful not to pencil in the entire brow, which will result in an unnatural look. Your pencil should be super soft so it goes on with little exertion. But if you have a pencil that's too hard, warm the tip up by rubbing it between your fingers.

Follow With Eyeshadow or Brow Powder
Dip an angled brush or a clean mascara wand in eyeshadow. Brush the powder along the brows. It should stick to the pencil, while also acting to blend in the color perfectly. For more staying powder, dampen the brush slightly before dipping it into color.

Two Colors Instead of One?
You can try two colors when filling in brows: A light powder where brows are thickest and a darker shade for the tail ends.

Set Brows

To keep brows in place, spritz hairspray on your finger and brush onto the brow.

Uh-oh, Overplucked?
If you've overplucked, it will take a few months to a couple years for hair to grow back.

Condition Brows
Conditioning your brows with castor oil is a great way to keep brows healthy and looking great, according to Rami Gafni in the September 2005 issue of Instyle Magazine. Gafni uses a clean mascara wand to apply the castor oil.

The Shape of Brows
Fuller brows are preferable to skinny ones. Have eyebrows shaped by a pro every four weeks. Use a good tweezer (Tweezerman is our hands-down favorite), to clean up the hairline in between visits.

Rogaine Can Help
If your brows don't grow fast enough, consider Women's Rogaine or men's extrastrength Rogaine applied to the sparse areas with a Q-Tip. According to the September, 2006, issue of Allure, experts recommend applying twice a day for four months. But do a test patch first on your inner wrist to make sure you don't get a rash. Check the patch after a day. Some products we hear great things about: Revlon Brow Fantasy pencil and gel ($7.50 at any drugstore)

What About Dyeing Brows, Is It Safe?
If you're considering dyeing your brows to match your hair or to get rid of grays, find out more in http://beauty.about.com/od/allaboutyoureyes/f/browlighten.htm. Cover Girl Natural Lash and Brow Mascara (purchase at drugstores) Sephora eyebrow brush (at any Sephora stores). MAC brow set (this colored gel is $12 at any MAC counter) Bobbi Brown Natural Brow Shaper (Bobbi Brown counters at department stores). DiorShow Brow & Liner Brush (www.dior.com). Cle de Peau Beaute eyebrow palette ($65 at select department stores)

How To Shape Your Eyebrows
Few things make you appear more groomed than well-plucked eyebrows . Many women have their eyebrows tweezed or threaded professionally and the trend is so hot, eyebrow boutiques are popping up in big cities across the country. I recommend you have a professional do your eyebrows first to set a 'blueprint', then all you have to do is pluck where the hairs grow in. (A pro waxing should set you back about $20 depending on where you live). Here's some tips on how to tweeze your own eyebrows. Difficulty: Average Time Required: 10 minutes

Here's How:
1. Cleanse your skin with a washcloth which naturally exfoliates the skin. If you want to go all out, use a facial scrub. Worried about pain? You can actually apply Anbesol, Orajel or any teething gel for babies. 2. Brush brows up and out with a clean toothbrush. I usually use my fingers. 3. Situate yourself near a window with light pouring in or under a bright light with a good mirror (magnifying mirrors are best, but be sure and flip it over to see your overall effect in the regular mirror). 4. Make sure you have a good pair of tweezers with a slanted edge (my favorite, hands down, are Tweezerman slanted tweezers. They last forever because the company will sharpen them for free. 5. Tweeze hairs in the direction they grow. Don't grab too many hairs at a time. You can hold skin taut as you pluck. 6. You can start anywhere, but I usually tweeze the area under my arch first, then I move above the brow and I clean up in between my brows last. It's a myth that brows should never be tweezed from above. You want both the bottoms and tops to be smooth. So be careful, but tweeze the top AND the bottom. 7. The best brows have a slight arch. To find yours, take a long eyeshadow brush or pencil and hold it parallel to the outside edge of the colored part of

your eye (the iris). Where the brush meets the brow is where the highest part of your brow should be. Tweeze the hairs underneath the arch. 8. The space between your brows should be equal to, or a little wider than, your eyes. To find where your brow should go, take the brush or pencil and hold it parallel to the side of your nose. Where the brush meets your brow is where your brow should begin. Tweeze the strays in between. 9. Stop every few hairs to step back and look at the job you're doing. If you overpluck, you're stuck. Unlike most hairs on your body, your brows won't always grow back once they're yanked. 10. Once you're done plucking, you can apply aloe vera gel, which will calm the redness right away.

Tips:
1. To ensure your tweezers maintain their firm grip, regularly wipe the tips with alcohol to remove any oily build up. Also, keep in mind that Tweezerman will sharpen your tweezers for free when they dull. (I always lose mine before they become dull). 2. If your brows are sparse or spotty, you can fill them in by pressing a brown shadow into your brow. Chanel makes the ultimate brow shadow. It's expensive, but worth the price. Plucked too much? Ji Baek, owner of Rescue Beauty Lounge in Manhattan suggests in Elle Magazine that you stimulate hair growth by massaging brows with a toothbrush. 3. If you use a pencil to fill in sparse brows, apply with short, feathered strokes from the inside of the brow out. Then carefully rub brows with a brush or your fingertips to soften the effect. 4. Brow gel helps keep your brows in place all day. Or if you don't have gel, apply a dab of hairspray to your finger and use it to keep unruly hairs in place. 5. I've saved the best tip for last. The ideal time for brow-shaping is the week after your period begins. It the time in your cycle when your body is least sensitive to hair removal.

What You Need


A great pair of tweezers. My recommended choice: Tweezerman

 

A mirror, preferably magnifying Anbesol or children's teething gel if you're afraid of pain

I Overplucked My Eyebrows. What Can I Do?
Question: I Overplucked My Eyebrows. What Can I Do? Answer: The worst thing one can do is overpluck. Well, not the worst. But be careful because once plucked, your eyebrows can take months to eventually grow back. Until that happens, fill in bare spots with a brow powder or pencil. Use light, feathery strokes to create a realistic look, rather then drawing a line. Set the color with brow gel. <br><br> Quick tips: <br><br> 1. Find a pencil color that matches your brows as closely as possible. <br> 2. Don't have a pencil on hand? Try an eyeshadow that matches your brows, you can fill in color with shadow, although it may not look as realistic. <br> 3. Pick up gel brow at any drugstore. No need to spend a lot of cash on this product. <br> 4. Keep brows in place with a spritz of hairspray applied to finger or a toothbrush. Brush brows in place.<br> 5. Next time, get brows professionally tweezed, waxed or threaded (my personal favorite). Follow the "map" created by the professional with a pair of tweezers in between salon visits. This will help keep you from overplucking again.

How to Apply Eyeliner
How to do a smokey eye, a bold eye, a cat eye
How to apply eyeliner

The Different Types of Liner

You can use an eyeliner pencil, a liquid liner or an eyeliner brush dipped into a deep shadow to line eyes. If you use a pencil, set the line with eyeshadow because penciled lines tend to melt and won't stay put all day.

How to Apply Liquid Eyeliner
Too apply liquid eyeliner, line the eye from the inside of the lashes outward in one big sweep. You can also line the eye from the middle of the lash line outward, then finish the line from the inner corner of the eye to the middle. Another liquid eyeliner trick requires a steady hand and will make eyes appear wider.
 

Start with a completely bare eye. On the upper lashes, dot the liquid liner into the spaces between the lashes, wiggling the liner into the lashes. The result is not supposed to be a line. It's supposed to look as if the lashes themselves are super thick at the root.

 

Apply mascara. Compare eye to other naked eye.

The Basic "I'm Off to Work or the Weekend" Eye
This is the perfect work or weekend look for women who want their eyes to "pop" without giving off the appearance of a woman who's really, really into makeup, so into makeup she has this site bookmarked in her Web favorites. The key to the basic eye is to apply with a light hand. The basic eye is all about appearing natural so consider a deep brown (versus black) eyeliner if you have light hair.


Holding the skin of your upper lid taut, trace the upper lashes from the inside of the eye with a pencil, or an eyeliner brush dipped in a dark eyeshadow. For a more dramatic look, make the outside line a bit thicker than the inside and extend it just beyond the lash line. Another shape I love is dubbed the "Nike swoosh" by Lucky Magazine -- narrow at inner corners, thicker in the middle and swept up a bit at the outer edge.



Once the line is set, trace over it with a liquid liner. Hand unsteady? Keep your elbow on a table. (You can skip this step, but it will hold the eyeliner longer if you include it).

 

Set liner with an eyeshadow. Apply eyeshadow or an eye pencil to lower lashes. I like to use a different color on the bottom lash line, one that brings out the blue in my eyes. Apply a deep-hued eyeshadow or pencil along the bottom lashes from the outside in. Unless you have wide-set eyes, don't line the entire lower lid. Instead, stop halfway across. If you're using a pencil, smudge the line with your finger so it looks more natural.

The Smoky Eye
Ahhh, the smoky eye. Perhaps there is no longer-running eye makeup trend than the smoky eye, which is in no danger of going out of style. The key here is to blend well. Also, make sure to keep all other makeup light or you risk looking overdone. You don't want the rest of your makeup to compete with your eyes.


Holding the skin of your upper lid taut, apply eyeliner from the inside corner of the eye outward. Draw strokes into the lash line. The middle of the line should be a bit thicker than the edges.

 

Use a cotton swap (or your finger, if you're lazy like me) to "smudge" the liner. Dab an eyeshadow brush into a deep-hued eyeshadow and apply over the eyeliner to set the line (blow on the brush first to remove any excess shadow). Layering liner with a shadow is the secret to a perfect smokey eye.



Blend shadow well, then follow with eyeshadow. According to the March 2006 issue of InStyle Magazine, with a smoky eye, "color should diffuse from rich and dark near the lashes to almost sheer as it extends to the crease."

For more intricate directions, see How to Get a Smokey Eye.

The Bold, Dramatic Eye
Bold eyes are a dramatic choice for evening. Try eyeliner shades other than deep black for a super cool look. You can use either a liquid liner or try the makeup artist's trick and use an angled eyeshadow brush dipped in a deep-hued eyeshadow. Skip the pencil for this look.


Holding the skin of your upper lid taut, apply the liquid liner from the middle of the eye to the outside corner of the eye.



Draw a second line from the inside corner of your eye, letting the two lines meet. The outer edge of the line should be thicker than the inside. If you have close-set eyes, avoid taking the line all the way to the inside corner.

The Cat Eye
Forget the advice you may have read in the past never to line the inside rims of eyes because it makes eyes look tiny. Sexy cat eyes are a cool look for night. The key to this look is to apply a thin line to the inside rims of the lids. Make sure to sharpen the pencil after lining.


Holding the skin of your upper lid taut, dot liquid liner along the upper lash line as close to the eye as possible. Apply line from corner to corner of eye, extending the line upward at the outer corner of eye. Let liner dry for a few minutes before touching. To soften this look (black liquid liner can be harsh), InStyle Magazine suggests trying a smudge-able pencil in a lighter color like dark brown or charcoal.



Hold down the lower lid and apply liner only to the outer three quarters of the rim. Fade out the line as you approach the tear duct, according to makeup artist Mally Roncal in the March 2006 edition of InStyle Magazine. Extend the liner upwards at the outer corners.

For a softer version of this look, use an eye shadow brush and sweep a taupe or brown color on the lower lash line.

Eyeshadow Secrets Only the Pros Know
To make eyes appear wider, trace the inner rims of eyes with a white pencil or highlight the inner corner of the eyes with a light shimmer powder. Throw out the cheapie applicators that come with your makeup. Investing in a good set of makeup brushes is key to a flawless face. Find great eyeshadow brushes at Sephora, MAC department counters and Trish McEvoy counters. Target sells wonderful, inexpensive brushes by Sonia Kashuk.

To get a casual, smudgie "I slept in my makeup last night" look that everyone's after at the moment. Apply a pencil line only to the bottom lashes and then smudge it with your finger.

Vaseline: The Best Eye Makeup Remover Around
There are all sorts of eye makeup removers on the market but the best one I've found is Vaseline. I learned this trick in high school from Seventeen Magazine & I've been using it ever since. Why? Well, it's easy and it doesn't sting the eye. And it's cheap. Some beauty experts tout Vaseline is actually good for the skin around the eyes. (I don't really buy that -- the tender skin around my eyes doesn't seem better than average after years of Vaseline).

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