Robot Sumo Manual

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Io a hoad-to-hoad shov|og match, you oood a sumo robot that |s stroogor aod
smartor thao tho othor.
Iho 8o|arbot|cs 8üM0v0ßE |ots you bo stroogor aod smartor by bo|og tho most
I|ox|b|o, most poworIu|, aod most aIIordab|o! ßr|og ooo to tho sumo r|og, aod soo
Ior yourso|I!
Document Revision: August 31, 2005
The So|nrbotics SUMOVORE
Mini-Sumo Robot P|atform
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Introduction
The }apanese brouçht robot sumo Wrestlinç to North America some years aço, and then they promptly proceeded to mop the
floor With our robots. The }apanese take their sumo Wrestlinç very seriously, and they applied the same enthusiasm to the robotic
counterpart. All Who saW these sumo robots compete Were taken by the eleçant simplicity of the contest, and many joined in to
make "}apanese Standards¨ robot sumo happen in the Western World.
As fun as it Was to Watch the contests, the size and resources required to build these robots to }apanese standards held many
others back from joininç in With the fun. This is When Bill Harrison developed a neW class of robot sumo - the Mini-Sumo. lini-
sumo Was desiçned to be half the size, 1/óth the Weiçht, fouçht on a rinç half the diameter and considerably less expensive to
build than a standard class sumo. lt proved to be such a popular event, that noW mini-sumo robot competitions run all around the
World!
Solarbotics has noW joined the fun by brinçinç the Sumovore kit to the rinç! We have the unique resources to combine modular
desiçn, inexpensive components, and clever electronics into an affordable packaçe that lets you have a shot at beinç Yokozuna
[Grand Champion] at your next robot sumo competition.
Here´s What the Sumovore has to offer:
Fully conforms to mini-sumo competition requirements
ºV operation [ó AA cells]
FoWerful 1+3:1 çear motors [not servos]
Up to FlVL front edçe sensors
TWo active lk opponent detection sensors
Steel baseplate for sturdy construction
lodular electronics spread betWeen a mainboard and tWo dauçhterboards
lncluded advanced-behaviour discrete brain module [easily sWapped out]
Discrete Brain "Sumo-Dance¨ inhibitor [S seconds of no chançe in opponent detection, Sumovore charçes forWard]
Discrete Brain "Ldçe-kam¨ inhibitor [direct-on edçe charçe forces a backup/turn riçht behavour rather than repeated edçe
charçes]
FoWder-coated steel [not aluminum] front plate in multiple colours
Custom-made Z-S/ߨ diameter Wheels in multiple colours
Full schematics included for custom hackinç
Òne optional rear lk detection sensor runnable in active or passive modes
Òptional easily-activated built-in line-folloWer mode
Òptional Basic Stamp ll / Stamp Stack brain module
Òptional FlC 1óFó1A1 brainboard With breadboard space
Òptional Atmel leçaßL brainboard With breadboard space
Beinç the result of over Z0 prototypes and S00 man-hours of development,the Sumovore is faster, cheaper, better performinç and
heavier than any other stock mini-sumo kit. We are sure you Will have a çood time buildinç and competinç your robot, so Warm
up that solderinç iron - it´s time to build!
0iscIaimer oI liabiIity
Solarbotics Ltd. is not responsible for any special, incidental, or consequential damaçes resultinç from any breach of Warranty,
or under any leçal theory, includinç lost profits, doWntime, çood-Will, damaçe to or replacement of equipment or property, and
any costs or recoverinç of any material or çoods associated With the assembly or use of this product. Solarbotics Ltd. values
constructive feedback, raspberry-straWberry-chocolate milkshakes, and smart friendly doçs. Solarbotics Ltd. reserves the riçht to
make substitutions and chançes to this product Without prior notice.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Pnrts List
ßody Components
1 - FCB [3 FCB´s in one, Will require separatinç alonç scored lines]
Z - Gear lotors
Z - GlFW - Gear lotor Wheels
+ - Traction Bands
1 - Dual AA Battery Holder
1 - Çuad AA Battery Holder
1 - Front Flate
1 - Steel Baseplate
3 - #Z x 1/ߨ Nylon Spacers [for mountinç / spacinç FCB]
3 - #Z x 3/ߨ lonç thread-forminç screW [for mountinç / spacinç FCB]
Z - #Z x 1-1/+¨ lonç thread-forminç screW [for mountinç battery pack]
+ - #+-Z0 x 1/Z¨ lonç thread-forminç screW [for mountinç motors]
3 - #+-+0 x 1/+° thread rollinç screW [in main board components baç]
+ - #Z-Só Sheet metal screW [in main board components baç]
ó - AA Batteries kequired
Main ßoard Components
Z - 1l kesistor [BroWn/Black/Green]
Z - 1k kesistor [BroWn/Black/ked]
1 - 1+AC1+
1 - 1+ Fin DlF Carrier
1 - LZº3D
1 - 1ó Fin DlF Carrier
Z - FNA+ó0Z - lk Detector
1 - Zº31 Vreç - Voltaçe keçulator
1 - SWT1 - FoWer SWitch
1 - SWT3 - lotor Lnable SWitch
3 - ked LLDs
ß - 0.1 F Capacitor [labled ´10+´]
Z - ó.ß F Capacitor
1 - 1000 F Capacitor
Z - TWo Wire Terminal Blocks
Z - + Fin Header
Z - + Socket Header
Z - ß Socket Header
Edge/lk ßoard Components
1 - 100k kesistor [BroWn/Black/YelloW]
S - Z+0 Òhm kesistor [ked/YelloW/BroWn]
1 - 3k kesistor [Òrançe/Black/ked]
1 - LlSSS
Z - lk LLDs
1 - Z0k lulti-turn Trimpot
1 - ZNZZZZ Transistor
Z - 0.001F Capacitor [labled ´10Z´]
Z - lolex º0 Deçree Ldçe Connectors
+ - ÇkD111+ - Ldçe Detectors
0iscrete ßrainboard Components
+ - 1k kesistors [BroWn/Black/ked]
ß - +1k kesistors [YelloW/Furple/Òrançe]
Z - 10k Sinçle-turn Trimpot
1 - 1+HCTZ+0
1 - Z0 Fin DlF Carrier
º - 1Nº1+ Diodes
+ - 0.+1F Capacitors [labled ´+1+´]
Z - ó.ßF Capacitors
Z - Green LLDs
1 - SWT10 - S Second Timer keset
Z - + Fin Header
Z - ß Fin Header
+ - Z Fin }umper
Z - Z Fin Shunt
1 - +10k kesistor [YelloW/Furple/YelloW]
3 - Zl Sinçle-turn Trimpot
We stronçly suççest you inventory the parts in your kit to make sure you have all the parts listed. ln the very unlikely occurrence
that anythinç is missinç, contact Solarbotics Ltd. for replacement parts information.
TooIs kequired:
Solderinç equipment [solderinç iron, solder, sponçe]
Side cutters [Wire snips, or nail-cutters Will do]
Wire strippers
Needle Nose pliers
ledium Fhillips ScreWdriver
Small flat-head screWdriver [for tuninç]
Drill & 1/ߨ drill bit
Sharp knife or ançled snips
#1 Fhillips ScreWdriver With çood handle - you´ll be tWistinç some tiçht screWs!
OptionaI:
Superçlue or Hot-Glue çun
Alcohol [or other non-residue cleaner]
One of the most common errors is to accidently "bridge" the pads between
components. Make sure that there aren't any tiny flecks of solder or wire
between the pads.
Solderinç! lf you have never soldered before, it could be an
intimidatinç concept. After all, you´re beinç asked to take a scaldinç-
hot piece of metal, and use it to melt metal onto delicate electronic
components!
lt is actually a pretty straiçht-forWard process. We´ve tauçht ß-year
old kids to solder [With supervision], so there´s no reason Why you
can´t Wrap your head around this skill.
The trick is heat. Heat is çood. Too often, neW students are scared
by the concept of all this heat in a small space. Well, What is really
hot to you and me [the solderinç iron], is actually just a sunny day
at the beach for the components.
A successful solder connection can almost be çuaranteed if you
remember you are heatinç tWo pieces of metal, not just one. Here´s
the basic procedure:
1] Fut the component leç throuçh the solder pad hole [snuççed up close]
Z] Wipe off the tip of the solderinç iron on a damp sponçe so it´s shiny and clean. lt transfers heat better When it´s
clean.
Z] Holdinç the solderinç iron like a pencil [not at the tip! Hot metal, remember?], jam the tip into the corner Where the
leç comes throuçh the hole. This means the solderinç iron tip is heatinç both the leç and the solder pad.
3] Count to +. This heats up the parts.
+] While keepinç the solderinç iron in place, add solder to the other side of the leç. At this point, both the leç and pad
Will be hot enouçh that they Will melt the solder into a nice connection. You´ll probably notice some yelloW or clear çoop
appear When you solder. Don´t Worry, this is flux, and it is in the solder to help make a çood, clean connection.
Do NÒT treat the solderinç iron like a brush. That is, DÒN´T melt solder to the tip, and then try to smear it onto the
connection. You´re a electronics enthusiast, not a painter!
lf you mess up, don´t Worry. You can reheat the solder and banç it loose With a quick snap onto a pad of paper [please
use eye protection at all times]. lf you çet tWo solder pads fused
toçether, use the solderinç iron like a pen, and "draW¨ a line
betWeen the pads. The solder Will remelt, and floW off to the sides.
The final check for any solder joint is the "Wiççle test¨. Firmly çrip
each component and çently rock it side-to-side. Any movement of
the component leçs on the other side of the board means the joint
isn´t firm, no matter hoW çood it looks. keheat and apply more
solder to the joint.
Solder
Soldering Ìron
(hold here!)
Solder Pad
Circuit Board
Component Leg
1. |nsert component
2. Wlpe so|derlng lron tlp on damp sponge
3. Stlck lron tlp lnto corner o| |eg & pad
4. Count to 4
5. Add so|der
6. Pemove lron
Solder flecks






Bad
No flow from leg to pad
Good
Flows from leg to pad
Bad
Solder "bridge¨ across pads
Bad & Good SoIder Joints



The So|nrbotics Sumovore
So|dering Tutorin|
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics - +
Let´s brinç the Sumovore to life! We´re çoinç to start With the mainboard, as it is both the electronic and
mechanical core of the Whole robot. Before startinç, read the Whole procedure. Yes, really! Buildinç it isn´t
the contest, so take your time here and do it riçht. There´s some tricky parts, so be prepared.
When you´ve read this section, snap your FCB apart [yes, it snaps apart], turn on your solderinç iron, çet
your parts, and sit doWn in a comfy spot and çet to Work.
Step 1: k1, k2 1k kesistors {ßrn / ßIk / ked)
Bend the resistor leads over, and insert them into
positions k1 and kZ. These resistors limit the
poWer çoinç throuçh the ´LLD1´ and ´LLDZ´
"opponent detected¨ indicators.
Step 2: k3, k4 1M kesistors {ßrn / ßIk / Grn)
Bend the resistor leads over, and insert them into
positions ´k3´ and ´k+´. These resistors help
filter false siçnals that come from the lk
detectors.
Step 3: lC2 - lM2º37 VoItage keguIator
Bend the leçs doWn on the voltaçe reçulator, and
insert it face-up, flush to the FCB, next to k3 and
k+ at position ´lCZ´
B|ep P: 1V
Hes|s|crs í/ Pì
B|ep 1: 1|
Hes|s|crs í/ Pì
B|ep 8: Vc||açe Heç.
Steps 4, 5: Insta||ing 74AC34 and L2BS chip carriers
Steps 3-S: Insta||ing R3-R4, Ve|tage Regu|ater
B|ep 4: 74AO14
Oarr|er í14 p|asì
B|ep 5: |PO8 Oarr|er
í1G p|asì
Step 4 & 5: Chip Carrier lnstaIIation
The Whole reason for puttinç in chip carriers is so
there´s little fear of solderinç a chip in backWards, or
of fryinç a chip.
Note the little notch out of the front of the carrier -
you Want that to match the position of the notch on
the shape of the lC picture on the FCB. This is so
you´ll knoW Which Way to put in the lC into the carrier
later. }ust because you can install a chip backWards,
doesn´t mean you should!
Carriers, Resisters, and Ve|tage Regu|ater insta||ed
3
7
Nete: Dne purpese ef the chip carrier is se that yeu wen't
damage the chip whi|e yeu're assemb|ing the rest ef the PCB.
If yeu fee| yeu're particu|ar|y accident-prene. Add the chips te the
seckets en|y just befere adding the batteries fer the first time!
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics - z
Step ó: lnstaIIing the lCs into the Carriers
This part isn´t hard, because if you mess it up, it´s easily corrected.
Simply note Which side of each chip has the notch, and install each
into the proper carriers. Confirm all leçs ço into the slots!
Note: You may have to çently bend the chip´s leçs inWards a bit to
make them fit into the carrier!
The LZº3D is the chip that routes the actual poWer to the motors, so
if you severely abuse your minisumo, you may need to replace it. This
is very unlikely, especially since it has a feature called "thermal
shutdoWn¨ Which turns off the chip if it çets too hot.
The 1+AC1+ is used to condition the sensor siçnals so they make
sense to the rest of the electronics in your minisumo, and is also part
of the S second startup delay timer.
Note Notch Pos|t|on
Step 6: Insta||ing L2BS and 74AC34 inte carriers
B|ep G: |as|a|| |Os
74AC"4
LEB3O
Step 7, 8, & º: Capacitors C1-C3, Có, C7
Start With the can-like 1000µF ó.3V. Bend the leads over as shoWn, and
insert into the ´C1´ position.
Note: The striped side of the capacitor is neçative, so make sure the lead
nearest the stripe [also the shorter lead of the tWo] is çoinç to the square
pad.
Finish by insertinç the ó.ßµF tantalum capacitors in spots ´CZ´ and ´C3´,
açain, notinç polarity. The lonçer lead is the ´+´ side. You lUST çet the
polarity riçht With these capacitors! You risk bloWinç them up if they´re
installed backWards!
The 0.1µF [labled ´10+´] capacitors don´t mind hoW they´re installed in
the small boxes labled ´Có´ or ´C1´ AßOVE the left/riçht motor mounts.
Solder them in, and clip the leads off the bottom!
B|ep 8:
G.8µ| í/ Pì
B|ep 7: 1OOOµ|
Steps 7 - B: Insta||ing 3000µF and 6.8µF capaciters
Steps 30 & 33: SWT3 and SWT2 switch insta||atien
Step 10 & 11: SWT1 and SWT2
No maçic here - insert the sWitches so they´re flush to the surface, and
solder them in.
SWT1 is the all-important main poWer sWitch. Won´t do anythinç Without
it!
SWTZ is the ´lotor Lnable´ sWitch, Which Will turn off the motors so you
can easily tune your Sumovore Without it runninç aWay on you. lt´ll look
like one or the other shoWn, and both Work equally Well.
B|ep 1O: BwI1
Va|a PcWer BW||c|
B|ep O: O.1µ| í/ Pì
B|ep 11: BwIP
Eaac|e BW||c|
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics - ¸
Step 12, 13, 14 - lE0, 8 & 4 losition Sockets:
This LLD is Wired in series With the infrared emitters on the front sensor dauçhterboard. lf you see this LLD on, it means the lk
emitters are also on - a çood siçn of poWer and proper operation!
All LLDs have to be installed the riçht Way around. Look carefully for the flat spot on the rinç round the LLD, and install it in
position ´LLD3´ so the flat matches the flat as marked on the FCB. Another tip is to make sure the shorter leç çoes into the square
pad. Don´t Worry about the second pair of pads beloW the oriçinal holes - they´re for future use for mountinç an additional lk
Lmitter for rearWard-lookinç sensors.
The tWo pairs of + and ß position headers interface the ´brain dauçhterboard´ With this mainboard. lt´s quite important that they
are installed vertically - straiçht up & doWn. The ß socket headers ço in positions ´H1´ and ´HZ´, and the + socket headers ço in
positions ´H3´ and ´H+´.
The best Way to do this is to insert the header strip into the FCB, and solder just one of the pins to the solder pad. Flip it back
over, and bend the strip until it stands straiçht up from the FCB. Then ço back, and solder up the rest of the pins.
Steps 32, 3S, & 34: LED, 8 & 4 Secket Headers
B|ep 18:
8 Bcc|e|
heaaers
í/ Pì
B|ep 1P:
Hea |E0
B|ep 14:
4 Bcc|e|
heaaers í/ Pì
Step 15, 1ó & 17 - lront lk Sensors, Capacitors & lE0s
The Sumovore´s "eyes¨ are mounted at the front corners of
the FCB, With the filter capacitor and indicator LLD just behind
each eye.
These lk sensors must be installed the correct
Way, so make sure the bulçe on the front of the
part matches What´s printed on the FCB in
positions ´lk DLT1´ and ´lk DLTZ´.
The LLDs are just the same as the one in step
1Z, so use the same techniques to make sure it
çets installed the correct Way in positions ´LLD1´ and ´LLDZ´.
The 0.1µF filter capacitors don´t mind Which Way they çet
installed, so insert and solder them in positions ´C+´ and ´CS´,
and We´ll çet onto the next step!
B|ep 15:
|H Beascrs í/ Pì
B|ep 17:
|aa|ca|cr |E0s
í/ Pì
B|ep 1G:
O.1µ| capac||crs
í/ Pì
Steps 35, 36 & 37: IR Sensers, Caps, and LEDs
IR Insta||atien
Finished
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics - µ
Step 18 & 1º - lront lins and TerminaI ßIocks - lMlOkTANT!:
Well, We´re done With the top of the FCB [for noW]. These next tWo steps take place on the underside of mainboard, so even if
the markinçs for the parts are on the top of the board, they´re installed on the underside. Don´t çet this Wronç!
B|ep 18: |rca| P|as íP se|sì are |as|a||ea aaaeraea|| pc|a|s 'P1' 8 'PP', HUI çe| |as|a||ea ca ||e c||er s|ael
B|ep 1O: Iera|aa| c|cc|s íP se|sì |as|a|| |ere ca cc||ca s|ae, W||| s|ae |c|es pc|a||aç ca| ||e cac|
Steps 38: Frent Pins Insta||ed Steps 3B: Termina| B|ecks Insta||ed
Mainboard lCß linished! There - you have pretty much finished the mainboard. You Will have to adjust the ançle of the front
pins to suit the front plate, but We´ll take care of that When it´s time to install the front plate.
Get up from your chair, ço raid the fridçe for a snack [Wash your hands first, lead-boy], and enjoy havinç completed the first
task in buildinç your Sumovore!
Note: S|ide the
Termina| b|ocks
together to make
one modu|e!
Step 20 & 21 - lk Edge Sensor lCß Connectors and lM555:
We´re noW Workinç on a brand neW board - the Ldçe Sensor FCB. This board holds the front edçe sensors, and the infrared
transmittinç circuitry.
Let´s start by installinç the LlSSS chip in the spot labled ´lC+´.
MAKE NOTE of the direction you install the chip! You Want the end With
the round dot in the corner of the chip to be near the notch in the symbol
printed on the FCB. This is the only chip We´re not puttinç in a chip carrier
because it Would make the circuit board too tall to properly fit on your
Sumovore, so it´s very important that you çet it riçht the first time. Check
the next assembly picture on this paçe to make sure it matches What you´ve
done BLFÒkL you solder it in.
After the SSS installation, pivot the º0 connectors into positions ´Fluç 1´
and ´Fluç Z´. These Will provide mechanical and electrical connections to the
rest of the Sumovore´s circuitry.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Edge / IR Trnnsmitter E|ectronics - ç
Steps 20 & 23: LN555 and B0° edge cennecters
B|ep P1:
OO Eaçe ccaaec|crs
í/ Pì, p|as||c s|ae ap
B|ep PO:
|as|a|| ||e |V555
íccraer ac| aplì
Step 22, 23, & 24 - 100k, 30k and 240 Ohm kesistors:
lf it Weren´t for resistors, We´d have a Whole heckofalot less
solderinç to do! Unfortunately, that´s not the case, so let´s çet to
Work. You don´t have to Watch the Way you install resistors, but
it´s alWays nice to have all the resistors lined up With all the çold
bands on one side. lt´s the siçn of a true Sumovore craftsman...
Start With the 100k [BroWn / Black / YelloW] resistor and solder it
into position ´kS´. This resistor limits hoW much siçnal is sent to
the transistor that poWers the lk emitter LLDs [yet to be installed].
FolloW up With the 3k [Òrançe / Black / ked] resistor and install it
in position ´kó´. This resistor helps set the frequency that the
LlSSS chip Will flash our lk emitter LLDs.
kound up the five Z+0 Òhm [ked / YelloW / BroWn] resistors and
install them in positions ´k1´, ´kß´, ´kº´, ´k10´, and ´k11´. These
resistors limit the current çoinç to the edçe-detector module
emitters [yet to be installed].
B|ep PP:
1OO|
íHra / H||/ \e|ì
Hes|s|cr
B|ep P8:
8| í0rç / H||/ Heaì
Hes|s|cr
B|ep P4:
P4O c|a
íHea / \e| / Hraì
Hes|s|cr í/ 5ì
Steps 22, 2S, & 24: Resisters
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Edge / IR Trnnsmitter E|ectronics - ó
Step 25 & 2ó - lnstaIIing and anchoring the 20k Trimpot:
The "trimminç potentiometer¨ is knoWn in the electronics biz as a "trimpot¨, so
çet used to the term. This adjustable resistor tunes the SSS timer so We can ´dial
in´ exactly hoW on-tune We Want the lk emitters transmission frequency. We Want
this ability because there´s a natural variation in the manufacture of parts, Which
means that no tWo resistors or capacitors [even if from the same batch] Will
measure exactly the same value. Because of this variation, We need the trimpot to
let us fine-tune the circuit.
There are occasions When We Will Want to de-tune the circuit to make it less
sensitive, like in loW-liçht levels When the lk sensors are very responsive and see
tarçets over + feet aWay, or the reflection off the sumo rinç surface. Havinç the
trimpot handy on the edçe of the FCB for tuninç your circuit Will be very useful
indeed!
Find your trimpot, and bend the leçs doWn as shoWn in the illustration. lnstall it
into the position marked ´TF1´.
To anchor your trimpot, find a boat anchor, tie it to your trimpot, and heave´er over the side into the
deep blue sea... no, no, no. What We mean by ´anchorinç´ is to lock the trimpot doWn so it doesn´t
Wiççle around While you are tuninç it. You can easily break off the trimpot if you don´t. This is
llFÒkTANT, so don´t skip this step even thouçh it looks... skippable. lt isn´t. Do it, or We´ll tell your
lommy on you.
Find one of the lonçer resistor clippinçs from your past assembly [yes, even if you have to carefully diç
in the trash], and use it to straddle the trimpot. Solder it in place, so the clippinç holds the trimpot
snuççly doWn in place. See? That Wasn´t so bad.
B|ep P5: Heaa ||e |eçs acWa,
||ea |as|a|| a| 'IP1'
Steps 26: Trimpet Anchered
Step 27 & 28 - Capacitors and Transistor
To function properly, the LlSSS timer chip also needs a
pair of capacitors. The tWo 0.001µF [labled ´10Z´]
capacitors [look for a ´10Z´ stamped on the side] are not
polarity sensitive, so stick them in at positions ´Cº´ and
´C10´, and solder them doWn.
The FNZZZZ is used to amplify the small siçnal out from
the LlSSS timer to the tWo infrared LLDs you´ll be
installinç. The transistor is polarity sensitive, so install it so
the curved shape of the transistor matches the one printed
on your circuit board. kemember, clean solderinç counts,
so don´t cause any accidental shorts on the close
transistor solder pads.
B|ep P7: O.OO1µ| capac||crs
|c 'OO' aaa 'O1O'
B|ep P8: PdPPPP
Iraas|s|cr a| '01'
Steps 27 & 28: Capaciters and Transister
This is what it sheu|d |eek |ike after
Capaciters and Transisters are
insta||ed
Steps 25: Preparing and Insta||ing the 20k Trimpet
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Edge / IR Trnnsmitter E|ectronics - y
Step 2º - lk lE0 lnstaIIation
The infrared LLD is just like the other LLDs, Which means it has to be installed the riçht-Way
around, or it simply Won´t Work. SHÒkT lead çoes into the SÇUAkL pad. Unlike the other LLD
installations, We do not Want to make these sit flat açainst the circuit board - We Want them to be
spaced off just a bit so they can be bent around and aimed out the front of your Sumovore.
When installinç the LLDs into the mountinç pads, only insert them so far that the bump on the
lead disappears. You Want about 1/ߨ [3mm] space. Solder the LLDs into place, then bend them
çently over to the outside edçe of the circuit board.
Steps 2B: Infrared LED insta||atien
B|ep PO: |as|a|| |H |E0s í/ Pì
|c '|E04' aaa '|E05'. B|cr|
|eaa çces |c s¢aare paal
IR LED Insta||atien
Step 30 - Edge Sensor lreparation
The ÇkD111+ edçe sensor is a combination unit, containinç both an lk emittinç LLD and an lk-sensitive phototransistor. The
active elements of both halves point doWnWard, so that any object beloW Will reflect the lk liçht back to the sensor for detection.
As lonç as you´re not in the immediate vicinity of a liçht-absorbinç black-hole, these sensors do a çood job of readinç
reflections Within a short distance. Unfortunately, these sensors don´t quite fit our application - they point the Wronç Way!
This is another of those important thinçs that you simply cannot be messinç up, so WAKL UF! kEA0 THlS! lt´s llFÒkTANT!
We´re çoinç to have to fold the sensor leads over in a careful Way to make them fit onto the circuit board, so let´s start by
identifyinç Which Way is up. You´ll notice on the front face of the sensor that there is a dimple near one corner - that´s LLAD
1[and the collector of the phototransistor]. Fold this lead and the one closest to it º0 up so they are flat to the sensor body.
Get one of the circuit board, and use it as a spacer for foldinç over the other tWo leads - this Will set the proper spacinç
distance for all the leads so they Will fit Well into the edçe sensor FCB. ls this as clear as mud? kefer to the pictures beloW, and
all Will make sense.
You´ll be doinç this for all the edçe sensors in your kit, Which may be tWo, four, or five, dependinç on the complexity of kit you
received.
B|ep 8O: |aea||l] ||e
s|ae W||| ||e a|ap|e...
Dimp|e
...||ea lc|a ||e |eaas ca ||e
a|ap|e s|ae acWa l|a| |c ||e
seascr...
...aaa ase ||e c|rca||
ccara as a spacer |c
lc|a c.er ||e c||er |Wc
|eaa c.er ||e l|rs| pa|r.
Nete the c|ean senser insta||atien.
Ne teuching wires, ne se|der b|ebs,
and ne chece|ate stains.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Edge / IR Trnnsmitter E|ectronics - 8
Step 31 -Mounting the Edge Sensors: There can be as feW as tWo and as many as five edçe sensors
installed on this circuit board. Your first priority is to install sensors at ´Ldçe1´ and ´LdçeS´, as you Want
your Sumovore to detect the White line With the corners as a top priority.
lf you have tWo more sensors, install them at positions ´LdçeZ´ and ´Ldçe+´. When usinç the
standard discrete brainboard, the sensors at ´Ldçe1´ and ´LdçeZ´ are Wired in parallel, as are
the ones at ´Ldçe+´ and ´LdçeS´. This çives you a backup sensor in case if one sensor is
damaçed in the heat of battle. lt also makes the line-folloWer behavior more stable.
Steps S3: Edge Senser Insta||atien
B|ep 81: |as|a|| Eaçe Beascrs
í/ Pì |c 'Eaçe1' aaa 'Eaçe5'
Install sensors in positions 'Edge2´ and 'Edge4´ only if you have
four sensors in your kit (which you most likely do].
Insta||atien cemp|ete. Nete that a|| sensers sit
se the IR transmitter (c|ear) is a|ways en the |eft
side.
When usinç a microprocessor brainboard, all the sensors are independently available
to the microprocessor, and there is the option to install a fifth sensor at position
´Ldçe3´ Which is useful When proçramminç an advanced line-folloWer robot.
Finished! There - that's what your comp|ete Edge Sensor ßoard shou|d
|ook |ike when you're finished. Cne step c|oser to Sumovoraciousness...
A sensor gets installed in position 'Edge3´ only if you have a
microprocessor brainboard add-on (the extra sensor is included
in the add-on kit].
Step 32 & 33 - The Chip Carrier and 74HCT240: We´re çoinç to install a
Z0-pin chip carrier first, simply because it´s an uçly mess to desolder a
backWards 1+HCTZ+0. keally, you don´t Want to do it.
}ust like When you installed the chip carrier for the mainboard´s tWo chips,
you Want to mate the position of the carrier´s notch With the notch printed on
the circuit board at position ´lCS-1+HCTZ+0´. Yes, We knoW it doesn´t say
´lCS-Chip Carrier´. Don´t be a smarty-pants!
After you´ve finished insertinç the carrier, find your 1+HCTZ+0, and insert it
into the carrier, matchinç up the notch in the chip With the notch on the
carrier [this notch-aliçnment-thinç is pretty cool, eh?].
Note: [referrinç back to step
+/S...] A major reason for
usinç a chip carrier is so that
you can isolate the chip durinç
assembly, then press it in riçht
at the end of the job. lf you´ve
had some bad luck lately and
don´t Want to risk it, just
install the carrier NÒW, and
install the chip near the end of
constructions
The 0iscrete ßrainboard: BLAl robots usually have simple, robust controller systems, and the Sumovore folloWs this
tradition. Althouçh We´re usinç a 1+HCTZ+0 octal invertinç buffer chip in the circuitry, there aren´t any truly radical BLAl-style
or analoç concepts behind it, so We refer to this brainboard beinç "discrete,¨ as in "composed of many separate pieces.¨
Buildinç a sumo robot brain can be done as simple as usinç three DFDT relays [see the book "}unkbots, Buçbots, and Bots on
Wheels¨], but in doinç so, there Won´t be a very Wide scope of behaviors in the sumo robot. Òn the other hand, We´ve built
over Z0 Sumovore prototypes, each time refininç What We can do With a simple controller circuit, and indeed, there´s some
subtle eleçance to the discrete brainboard, like:
Deceleration before reversinç the çearmotors to keep the sumo plate edçe from liftinç off the surface
Òpponent sensor false-triççer filterinç
Smooth left / riçht opponent trackinç
"Sumo-dance¨ inhibitinç [so the Sumovore knoWs to try somethinç different after S seconds of lockinç up With the
opponent]
"Ldçe-charçe¨ inhibitinç [so the Sumovore doesn´t repeatedly head-on charçe the sumo rinç edçe]
Selectable "Line-folloWer¨ or "Sumo¨ mode [so you can use the Sumovore for line-folloWinç contests]
Òptional rear-lookinç sensors [active lookinç, or passive sensinç of opponent´s lk transmissions]
We desiçned this brainboard to be very robust and straiçhtforWard to build and use, so even if you are planninç to use a
microprocessors With your Sumovore, you can use the discrete brainboard as a benchmark to compare your microprocessor
brains açainst. Not sure if there´s a buç in your code or if it´s a hardWare problem? Trade out the microprocessor brainboard for
the discrete brainboard and see if the problem çoes aWay. Last minute competition chançes mess up your code? You can alWays
fall back on the discrete brainboard. For these reasons, We encouraçe you to build this brainboard even if you have every
intention of eventually ploppinç a microprocessor on your Sumovore.
B|ep 8P: |as|a|| O||p
Oarr|er a| '|O5'...
B|ep 88: ...||ea |as|a|| 74hOIP4O
|a|c c||p carr|er. 0r |l ]ca're lee||aç
aa|ac|], Wa|| aa||| a|| sc|aer|aç |s acae
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Mninbonrd E|ectronics - p
Steps S2 & SS: Carrier and 74HCT240
Nete: If yeu're using Hydre-X er simi|ar se|der with water-se|uab|e f|ux, be sure te wash the beard eff at the end ef censtructien! Fai|ure te
de se wi|| cause erratic behavier in yeur Sumevere!
Cemp|ete carrer & chip insta||atien. Nete
the netch pesitien!
NOTE: As We´re presently updatinç the documentation, We´d like to Warn you that you should do step +1 NÒW, before step
3+, then come back. lt´ll make assembly easier - trust us. <çhost-voice ÒN>¨Beee foreWaarrrrned!¨ <çhost voice ÒFF>
The reverse-and-turn feature is controlled by the tWo Z-meç trimpots. Lach trimpot sets hoW lonç the Sumovore spends in
reverse-and-turn mode When that particular corner is triççered by a White line.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Discrete ßrnin E|ectronics - +o
Step 34 - 2M Trimpots Ior keverse-and-Turn: The trimpots make
it easier to adjust your Sumovore for best performance. Solder each
Z leçaohm trimpot to the three pads that are joined by lines and
labled ´Òpt TFS´ and ´Òpt TFó´. Don´t
Worry about Where to set them at the
moment, as We´ll cover that later in the
tuninç section.
Finished Insta||atien
B|ep 84: |as|a|| ||e
PV |r|apc|s a|
pcs|||cas 'IP5' aaa
'IPG'
Steps S4: 2 Neg Trimpets (x 2)
Step 35, 3ó, & 37: 1k, 47k & 470k kesistors: A çood number of the components on the discrete brainboard are resistors,
so let´s çet to Work.
Start With the four 1k [BroWn / Black / ked] resistors and solder them into positions ´k1+´, ´k1S´, ´k1ó´, and ´k11´. TWo of
these resistors limit the poWer çoinç to the indicator LLDs, and the other tWo limit the current in the lk sensor over-ride portion
of the circuit [When it sensors detect the edçe and need to steer it aWay from the edçe].
The +1k [YelloW / Furple / Òrançe] resistors
sit in positions ´k1ß´, ´k1º´, ´kZ0´, ´kZ1´,
´kZZ´, ´kZ3´, ´kZ+´, and ´kZS´ [yes We
knoW We could have just said k1ß-ZS, but
then We couldn´t say We Wrote a detailed
construction manual, could We?]. These
resistors are used for many purposes,
includinç lk sensor biasinç, edçe-ram
behavior suppression, sumo-dance behavior
suppression, and fosterinç World peace. lf
you Want full details, please check the
schematics at the end of the manual.
The sinçle +10k [YelloW / Furple / YelloW]
resistor in position ´kZ1´ is part of the S second startup delay circuit.
This step sets up the resistor values used to confiçure the startup timer for your Sumovore. Ònce confiçured, you shouldn´t
need to make any further adjustments. This brainboard uses a pair of inverters, capacitors, and resistors arrançed in series to
create an delay of ideally S seconds. Òne of these inverter / capacitor / resistor staçes is desiçned to let you tWeak the startup
timer so you can tune your S second startup delay.
B|ep 85: |as|a||
1| res|s|crs í/ 4ì
a| pcs|||cas 'H14' |c
'H17'
Steps S5 & S6: 3k and 47k resisters
B|ep 8G: |as|a|| 47|
res|s|crs í/ 8ì a| pcs|||cas
'H18' |c 'HP5'
B|ep 87: |as|a|| 47O|
res|s|cr a| pcs|||ca
'HP7'
Step 38 - 2M Trimpot Ior Startup 0eIay: lçnore
resistor location kZó entirely, and solder the remaininç
Zl trimpot into position ´Òpt TFS´. Turninç it to the
riçht [clockWise] adds time to the delay, to the left
[counter-clockWise] removes time.
B|ep 88: |as|a||
PV |r|apc| a| '0p| IP4'
í|çacre 'HPG' ea||re|]ì
Step S6: Insta||ing 2Ntrimpet
Insta||atien at 'Dpt TP4'
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Discrete ßrnin E|ectronics - ++
Step 3ºa - 0iodes: There are eiçht diodes [yup, not 1, not º, ß] in your
Sumovore´s discrete brain. Diodes are polarity sensitive, and they have a
black band to shoW Which Way is the cathode [neçative end]. lnstall the
diodes With the black band in the same position as the band printed on
the circuit board in positions ´D1´, ´DZ´, ´D3´, ´D+´, ´DS´, ´Dó´, ´D1´,
and ´Dß´ [WheW!].
Step 3ºb - OptionaI keset 0iode: After some experimentinç, We´ve
found that installinç another diode into position ´kZó´ makes the reset
sWitch deactivate the Sumovore much better than just a resistor. Not
absolutely necessary, but We recommend it. Note that the black band is
installed toWards the bottom.
Step 40 - 0.47µl Capacitors: The four 0.+1µF [labled ´+1+´]
capacitors çet installed in positions ´C11´, ´C1Z´, ´C13´, and ´C1+´. The
capacitors aren´t polarity sensitive, so don´t Worry about the Way they çet
installed.
B|ep 8Oa: |as|a|| a|caes a|
pcs|||cas '01' |c '08'
íac|e cr|ea|a||calì
B|ep 4O: |as|a|| O.47µ|
capac||crs a| 'O11' |c 'O14'
S
t
e
p
s

S
B

&

4
0
:

D
i
e
d
e
s

a
n
d

C
a
p
a
c
i
t
e
r
s
Step 41 & 42: 10k Trimpots & lE0s: The 10k sinçle-turn trimpots
are hoW you´ll be settinç the sensitivity of the edçe detectors. Turninç
them to the riçht [clockWise] makes them more sensitive, the other Way
[counter-clockWise] makes time ço backWards [just a counter-clockWise
joke there...].
lnstall the 10k [labeled ´103´ on the side] trimpots in positions ´TFZ´ and
´TF3´.
The LLDs shoW When the edçe sensors have detected the edçe. Lverybody
likes blinky liçhts - it´s What makes robots [and Star Trek command
consoles] cool. kemember, LLDs need to ço in the riçht Way, so make sure
the flat spot on the LLD´s shoulder matches the flat spot on printed on
the circuit board at positions ´LLDó´ and ´LLD1´.
B|ep 41:
|as|a|| 1O| s|aç|e-|ara |r|apc|
a| 'IPP' aaa 'IP8'
B|ep 4P:
|as|a|| |E0 a| pcs|||ca '|E0G'
aaa '|E07' íWa|c| pc|ar||]lì
B|ep 48: IWc G.8µ| |aa|a|aa capac||crs
a| pcs|||cas 'O15' aaa 'O1G'
Steps 43 & 42: 30k Trimpets and LEDs
B|ep 44:
Hese| BW||c|
|a|c 'BwI1'
Step 43 & 44: ó.8µl Capacitors and keset Switch: The
tWo ó.ßµF capacitors are installed to ´C1S´ and ´C1ó´, and
are part of the startup circuitry. These capacitors are polarity
sensitive, so be sure the shorter leç çoes into the square pad
[square pads usually indicate ´-´, Which is What the cap´s
short leç is]. The cap also shoWs a little "+¨ siçn near one
leç [the lonçer leç], just so you have tWo Ways to identify the
leçs.
The sWitch is a bit tiçht to install at position ´SWT3´ [sorry,
We should have done that earlier in the assembly process],
and resets the startup timer When released. lt´s also a bit
hard to reach, but that Was planned that Way so it doesn´t
accidently çet hit by the opponent in the heat of combat.
B|ep 8Oc ícp||caa|ì:
|as|a|| a|cae |a |||s
cr|ea|a||ca |a|c HPG
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Discrete ßrnin E|ectronics - +z
B|ep 45: |as|a|| 8-p|a
|eaaer aaaeraea|| a|
'P5' aaa 'PG'. Va|e
sare ||'s s|ra|ç||
ap-aaa-acWal
Steps 45 & 46: 8 and 4 pin insta||atien UNDERNEATH!
Step 45 & 4ó - Eight and lour lin Header kaiIs: Here´s another one of those tricky installs, Where We Want you to install the
parts on the underside of the circuit board. We´re çoinç to install the pins that Will connect the Discrete Brainboard to the
lainboard. Since We´re sure you don´t Want to install the brains in upside-doWn, just remember that they all are soldered in
from the bottom. Don´t Worry, We´ll be remindinç you to do this several times yet.
Take the tWo ß-pin headers and install them in positions ´FS´ and ´Fó´, With the short end beinç soldered to the board. lt´s quite
important to make sure that the pins are installed straiçht up-and-doWn, º0 deçrees to the circuit board. The best Way to do
this is by solderinç only one pin on the header, then eyeball hoW it´s sittinç. lt´s easy to remelt the solder and tWeak the
aliçnment if only one pin is soldered. When you´re happy With the aliçnment, ço crazy and solder in the remaininç 1 pins.
Use the same procedure on the +-pin headers, and install them in positions ´F1´ and ´Fß´. Same drill - solder only one pin and
make sure that the header is installed straiçht up-and-doWn.
B|ep 4G: |as|a|| 4-p|a
|eaaer aaaeraea|| a|
'P7' aaa 'P8'. Va|e
sare ||'s s|ra|ç||
ap-aaa-acWal
Fina| Insta||atien. See? Pins Neunted UNDERNEATH!
A Tip Ior the ßrave: Want an ideal Way to mount your pins? lnstead of the above steps, mount the pins into the sockets on the
main board. Drop the Discrete brainboard onto the pins, and solder a pin on each end of the pin strip. Full the brainboard out
[With all + strips], and finish solderinç. NoW you´re çuaranteed that each pin Will mate With each socket!
Warning: You may melt the sockets if you take too lonç tack-solderinç in the pins! That´s Why you have to be brave doinç it this
Way! BUT, it´s also the best Way to make sure everythinç aliçns up nicely!
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the Discrete ßrnin E|ectronics - +¸
Step 47 - OptionaI line loIIower / Mini-Sumo SeIector: [Welcome to you, if you have just jumped over here from step 3+!]
lf you don´t knoW, don´t care, or knoW but don´t care What line-folloWer is, or simply Want to çet the solderinç over With, you
can totally skip this step. Line-folloWer is a neat event, as poWer is a secondary to sensors and your skill in tuninç the sensors.
All We´re çoinç to do is add some pins and jumpers so you can activate line-folloWer mode. lf you don´t have any lines in your
house, then it´s obvious you should skip this step.
Start by usinç a sharp knife or razor to cut a small chunk of the chocolate bar you´ve çot hidden in your desk, and eat it. Feel
more enerçized? Good. NoW take that same knife [after cleaninç off the chocolate...] and use it to scrape throuçh the red
maskinç and the underlyinç copper tracks at the tWo points marked by ´Òpt 1´. By default, the discrete brainboard is hard-Wired
for mini-sumo mode, so by doinç this, you´re preparinç the circuit connections to be re-routed for line-folloWer mode.
Solder the four jumper pairs to the positions at ´}FZ/3´. lt´s a bit tricky, as the pins Will fall out When you turn the circuit board
upside-doWn. The solution? Have a friend hold them in place from the bottom With some needle-nose pliers While you solder
them in, or use a small ball of clay to keep it stuck in until it´s soldered. lf you´re çood With a solderinç iron, use a left-over
chunk of lC-holdinç foam stuck on the lonç-pin side to keep them from fallinç out. Z-second solderinç Won´t melt it.
After the pins are soldered in, install the tWo jumpers across the tWo jumper pin pairs on the klGHT side, in the set labled
"lS¨ [lS - for "lini Sumo¨]. lf you Want line-folloWer mode, reposition the tWo jumpers to the LLFT, Where it says "LF¨
[Line folloWer mode is covered in the "Troubleshootinç¨ section].
B|ep A:
|aea||l]
||e |races
|c ca|
B|ep H:
Be.er ||cse
|Wc |racesl
B|ep O: |as|a|| ||e jaaper pa|rs í/ 4ì
|a pcs|||cas 'JPP/8'
B|ep 0: |as|a|| ||e jaapers ca ||e
p|a pa|r ca ||e 'VB' s|ae ír|ç|| s|aeì
||a|s|eal Heaa] lcr a|a|-saac
cr ||ae-lc||cWer ccape||||casl
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the ßody - +
Lnouçh of the continuous solderinç - let´s çet to Work actually çivinç our Sumovore a body! Start With the electronics
mainboard, as it´s the ...main board... for the Whole robot.
Collect the metal baseplate, and associated screWs & spacers. Not sure Which is Which? Have a ruler handy to measure their
lençths.
Step 1 - Mount the ßasepIate to the lCß: Use tWo
of the #Z x 3/ߨ self-threadinç screWs [these are the
ones that don´t have a sharp point], and screW them
into the FCB at the tWo front positions [as shoWn].
They´ll liçhtly thread themselves into the FCB so they
stay put.
B|ep 1: |aser|
=P / 8/8" se|l-
||reaa|aç screWs |c
lrca| P pcs|||cas
(screw shown
actua| site - note
b|unt tip)
B|ep P: Vcaa| casep|a|e
|c POH W||| P screWs aaa
P a]|ca Was|ers
Step 2 - NyIon Spacer: Fut a 1/ߨ nylon spacer on each screW,
and thread the Whole Works to the baseplate. 0on't Iorget these
spacers! These spacers keep the electronics from potentially
shortinç out açainst the metal baseplate [usually, a bad thinç!].
You´ll need a firm çrip on your screWdriver to fully drive the self-
threadinç screWs into the metal baseplate - don´t be afraid to use
some pressure!
Screws mount
here
Step 3 - kear Screw lnstaIIation: With the front tWo screWs in tiçht, you
should be able to slide the nylon spacer betWeen the FCB and baseplate so it´s
held there by friction. This Will make installinç the final screW and Washer
pretty easy.
B|ep 8:
8/8" se|l-||reaa|aç screW.
0ca'| lcrçe| ||e
a]|ca spacerl
ßasep|ate mounting to FCß
comp|ete!
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the ßody - z
Step 5 Mounting the Motors:
The baseplate makes mountinç the motors a snap.
The holes auto-aliçn to the holes in the motor and the nub
just behind the output shaft.
Fick a motor, aliçn it up, and use tWo #+-Z0 x ¹¨lonç
thread-forminç screWs to secure it to the plate!
B|ep 5: Vcaa| ac|crs, eac|
W||| |Wc =4-PO / ½"|caç screWs
ís|cWa ac|aa| s|teì
Dptiena| rear meter stream|ining
B|ep 5a í0p||caa|ì:
Oa| ||e ac|cr re|a|aer
aaa sa|p cll ||e
re|a|aer acaa|
Cut band
Snip off mount
Step 5a Trimming kear Motor {OptionaI):
You may Want to consider trimminç off one of the motor retaininç strap
mounts. "And Why Would We Want to do that?¨ you may ask.
Firstly, it makes your Sumovore a bit smaller, Which is çood considerinç
that the Sumovore is very close to the maximum size limit.
Secondly, if [and When] the Sumovore çets tipped backWards in the heat
of competition, the strap mount lifts the robot off the Wheels,
practically çuaranteeinç that it Won´t recover from beinç tipped back.
Shave the mount off, and the Sumovore keeps traction for over º0 of
tippinç, Which lets it keep on fiçhtinç lonçer!
You don´t need to do this step noW, as you can do it after you´ve finished your Sumovore, but it is more convenient to do it at
this time.
Step 4 lreparing the Motors with 0.1µl Noise
Supression Capacitors:
Some of the electronics on the Sumovore can be sensitive
to the electrical noise that the motors make, so We´re
çoinç to nip that in the bud noW With a pair of 0.1µF
capacitors per motor.
Use some sandpaper or a file [or if desperate, the scratchy
teeth of pliers] to shine up part of the motor body in tWo
spots, each near each of the motor terminals.
Solder each capacitor from one terminal to one of the
shiny spots on the motor body. This job is simplified if
you pre-tin the motor´s shiny spot With a dab of solder.
B|ep 4c: Vcaa| a capac||cr |c eac| s|ae
cl ||e ac|cr, W||| cae |eç sc|aerea |c
||e |ac, ||e c||er |c ||e cca]
B|ep 4c: Pre-||a ||e s||a] spc|
W||| a c|| cl sc|aer - || aa] |a|e
a W|||e |l ]ca |a.e a ccc|er sc|aer|aç
|rcal
B|ep 4a: Use a l||e |c scrape aaa aa|e
a s||a] spc| ca ||e ac|cr aear ||e
ac|cr ccaaec||ca |ac
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the ßody - ¸
Rear motor gets right
termina| b|ock (b|ack, red)
Step 8 & º- Wiring up the lront and kear Motors: Start With the front motor
[nearest the ß pins] and solder the remaininç Wire you clipped from the battery pack
to the terminals on the motor. lf you solder the red Wire to the motor tab nearest the
mainboard and the black Wire on the other tab, you´ll be matchinç What We´re doinç
and Won´t have motor rotation problems later.
kun these Wires over to the terminal blocks, and strip / insert the black Wire into the
terminal block hole nearest the corner, and screW the retainer screW doWn. Strip and
insert the red Wire into the next hole, and tiçhten it doWn.
The terminal block is sittinç riçht next to the rear motor, so We only need a bit of
Wire to connect it up.
Clip 1¨ [ZSmm] of the red and black Wire off the + AA battery holder, and use these
pieces to connect the rear motor to the terminal block, açain by solderinç the red
Wire to the motor tab closest to the mainboard and the black Wire to the other motor
tab. lnsert and tiçhten the black Wire into the next available terminal block hole, With
the red Wire in the last position.
There - you´re sooo close to finishinç your Sumovore, you´re probably çoinç to
içnore any bodily demands to eat or sleep until you´re finished!
Get seme wire fer the ether
meter frem the ether battery pack
Neter wiring te termina| b|eck finished
Front motor gets |eft
termina| b|ock (b|ack, red)
B|ep O: Bc|aer s|cr| W|re c||pp|açs |c ||e
rear ac|cr aaa ccaaec| |c |era|aa| c|cc|
2AA Battery Pack Insta||ed and Wired
Step ó & 7 - lnstaIIing the 2AA ßattery HoIder: Snip off most of the battery holder´s Wires so there´s only 3cm [1-1/+¨]
left. Solder the Wires to the battery poWer terminals on the top of the mainboard, red to
round pad, black to square.
ScreW this bad-boy doWn With
the tWo included #Zx1/+¨
pointy screWs. lf the holes
feel loose, melt a bit of
solder into the holes,
reducinç the hole size until the
screWs can çet a çood "bite¨.
B|ep 8: Bc|aer ca||er]-pac| W|re ca|-clls |c
lrca| ac|cr íc|ac| c ac|cr |ac aeares|
aa|accaraì,||ea ccaaec| |c |era|aa| c|cc|
Step 6 & 7 - 2AA Battery He|der
Insta||atien and Wiring
B|ep 7:
Iac| PAA pac|
ce|Weea seascrs
aaa screW acWa
B|ep G:
O||p 1-1/4" cll
PAA |c|aer W|res,
Bc|aer |c aa|accara
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the ßody - µ
Step 10 - lront lIate lnstaIIation: NoW We´re çettinç to the point Where the Sumovore is beçinninç to look like a real robot!
We´re çoinç to install the front plate, but before We do, We Want the pins that connect to the front edçe sensor board to match
the same ançle as the front plate. Do this by first manually placinç the plate up açainst the mainboard [as if it Were already screWed
on], and then examininç the ançle of the pins. To start With, they´ll be straiçht up-and-doWn. Fut doWn the front plate and pick up
your favourite pin-bendinç tool [We like needle-nose pliers for this job] to çrab each set of four and çently bend the set toWards
the plate. When the pin ançle matches the ançle of the front plate, you´re ready to screW the front plate on.
lnstall the front plate With the larçer three thread-forminç screWs, from the topside of the mainboard into the holes of the steel
tabs. Thread-forminç screWs are a bit difficult to screW into the holes in the steel, so make sure you have a phillips screWdriver
With a comfortable çrip.
When done, install the front edçe sensor board and see hoW it fits. lt should slide in riçht next to the front plate, With little
problem.
Checking pin a|ignment with the p|ate ang|e...
Nepe, net the same!
A few bends |ater, and the pin ang|e matches the p|ate
Screwing the p|ate en with S thread-ferming screws
Frent p|ate screwed en, with edge
senser circuit beard pins a|igned
B|ep 1O: A||ça p|as |c aaç|e cl lrca| p|a|e, ||ea screW ca
W||| 8 ||reaa-lcra|aç screWs
Test insta||atien ef frent edge senser beard
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the ßody - ç
Step 11 - ßottom ßattery lack lnstaIIation: Let´s attach the quad AA battery pack holder to the Sumovore.
We prefer to attach the pack, then solder it to the battery connection points beloW in front of the motor, but some people prefer
to solder the Wires, then attach the pack. Your decision [no real advantaçe either Way]. }ust make sure that you´re solderinç to the
riçht battery connections, as there´s one for the ZAA holder, and one for the +AA holder, and they can´t be reversed! Bad
Sumovore builder, BAD! lake sure your battery connections are çoinç to the ones shoWn in the pictures, and all Will be fine.
The baseplate has tWo holes for acceptinç the lonç #Z x 1-1/+¨
thread-forminç screW that pass throuçh the tWo custom holes in
the battery pack. The standard holes in the battery pack simply
don´t Work, so We´ve custom drilled tWo neW holes to match the
holes in the baseplate.
Before screWinç the battery pack in, use a sharp knife and cut
some of the rib aWay from around the hole. This rib Will interfere
With the head of the screW, so trim it back about 3mm [1/ߨ]
from each side of the
hole, flush doWn to the
bottom of the pack.
Drop the screWs in, aliçn
up the holes, and secure
the battery pack to the
baseplate. lt Will take a bit
of force to make the
screWs ço in the first time
[remember, you´re forminç threads in the baseplate´s metal], but don´t overdo it. you only
have to make the pack çently snuç up to the motors.
B|ep 1P: Ir|a acWa aaa sc|aer ||e
ca||er] |c|aer W|res |c ||e '÷' aaa
'-' sc|aer paas ca aaaers|ae.
4 //
Bo¦¦e|y Poc|
Ccnnec¦|cn
Pc|n¦s
Bo¦¦e|y Poc|
Mcun¦|ng Sc|ew
¬c|es
Step 12 - ßottom ßattery lack SoIdering: NoW that your battery holder is firmly in
place, cut doWn the Wires to a suitable lençth and solder them to the underside of the
mainboard on the riçht side [vieWed from bottom].
You can see the solder points just ahead of the riçht motor [vieWed from bottom], With a
square pad labeled ´-´ and a round pad labeled ´+´. These pads are clearly labeled ´+Batt-´
on the topside, but it´s mostly obscured by the top battery pack. Black Wire çoes to ´-´, the
red to ´+´ [but you kneW that already, klGHT?!? Òf course. Sumovore builders are smart
people].
B|ep 11: |cca|e casep|a|e |c|es
lcr 4AA ca||er] pac| |c|aer screWs
Nc¦e: Bo¦¦e|y Poc|
w||es o|e ne|e
ì||m ||cs owoy f|cm eoges
cf mcun¦|ng nc|es
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the ßody - ó
Step 13, 14 & 15 - ßrainboard lnstaIIation, ßattery lnstaIIation and lnitiaI lower-up: Yup, you read riçht - time to fetch the
brainboard, them batteries, and çet ready to ço. Gather up your batteries, but before you ço Willy-nilly [except anybody named
"Willy¨ - only you may ço Willy-nilly] and install the batteries and brainboard, you must check a feW thinçs.
1 - Wires from the top battery holder are properly soldered [black to square pad, red to round]
Z - Wires from the bottom battery holder are properly soldered [black to square pad, red to round]
3 - Batteries are NÒT Wired in parallel [l.e.: Sharinç same solder connections to mainboard]
+ - lotor enable sWitch is in the left position
S - FoWer sWitch is in the left position
lnstall the brainboard on the rear of your Sumovore. Careful to aliçn up all the pins
then push the board into place. With Z+ pins connectinç the tWo boards, it may take a
fair bit of push to çet the brainboard installed. Don´t bend any pins over! Fress it
doWn until the board seats - you´ll see 1/+¨ of bare pin left. This is normaI -
exposed pins have no effect on the performance of the robot.
All çood? Good. lnstall S of the ó batteries. Then as you install the last battery, pay
special attention to your nose, finçers, and ears. lf you SlLLL anythinç strançe,
FLLL heat, or HLAk any sizzlinç, FÒF THAT BATTLkY ÒUT! Those are nasty siçns
that somethinç Went Wronç, most likely somethinç like a solder blob shortinç out
poWer connections, or you soldered BÒTH battery holders to the same point. lf you
pop the battery in and nothinç happens... Well, that´s a çood thinç at this moment.
Next, slide the poWer sWitch to the riçht [that´s the biççer sWitch of the tWo].
Hopefully, the red LLD riçht next to the sWitch Will illuminate. This LLD is Wired in series With the lk transmittinç LLDs at the front
of the robot, so if this red LLD doesn´t liçht up, there´s an lk transmittinç problem. Ummm... you do have your edçe sensor
board still installed, don´t you?
lf the red LLD is on, then pick up your Sumovore and touch an edçe sensor. kemember, the sensors are lookinç for a reflection,
so if you´re testinç your Sumovore on a White table surface, it´ll think its continually readinç a White edçe and activatinç the
"reverse-and-turn¨ behavior. Does the çreen LLD on the corner of the discrete brainboard liçht up When you çet close to the edçe
sensor? Try turninç the 10k sinçle-turn trimpot for that side clockWise [adds sensitivity]. lt should turn on, and stay on for a
second or tWo after you remove your finçer. Try it With the other side. lt Works too? Lxcellent...excellent!
NoW, slide the motor enable sWitch to the riçht [the ´on´ position]. The motors
Will both activate, unless if you´ve turned the poWer off then on, at Which point
the startup delay circuit is doinç it´s job [delay could be from 3 to 10 seconds
before motor activation]. Activatinç an edçe sensor Will stop one motor and
reverse the other for a short duration, then both ço forWard açain. Check both
sides for similar behavior. Thinçs look çood? Lxcellent!
Last test - the opponent detection sensors. Don´t fret if this doesn´t Work riçht
aWay, as this part Will most likely need immediate tuninç. Brinç your palm to the
front left or riçht corner of the robot. lf the LLD near that sensor liçhts up,
you´ve been seen! lf not, you most likely Will have to tune it. Fut your Sumovore
doWn Within ó¨ [1Scm] of an object, like a book or tissue box. Turn the Z0k
multiturn trimpot on the front sensor board Z0 turns to the left, then sloWly
turn it to the riçht, countinç the rotations until you see the "opponent
detected¨ LLD come on. kemember that number, and keep turninç the screW.
When the LLD çoes off, averaçe that number and reset the trimpot to that value. This Will be the most sensitive your Sumovore
can be. Òf course, beinç too sensitive can be bad, so feel free to "de-tune¨ your robot so it only detects object Within 1 or ß
inches [1º to Z1cm].
Tuninç example: LLD turns on at S turns, and turns off açain at 1Z turns. [S + 1Z] / Z ~ ß.S turns. Start at the beçinninç, and
turn ß.S turns to çet to maximum sensitivity.
Step 13: Insta|| brainboard
Step 14: Insta|| batteries
Step 15: Check for various b|inky |ights! (See text)
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
ßui|ding the ßody - 8 / Troub|eshooting
Step 1ó: lnstaIIing the WheeIs: No maçic or mystery here. Well, maybe just a bit. First mount the traction bands onto the Wheel
hub. The easiest Way We´ve found is to stretch the rubber band betWeen your thumb and forefinçer [the one you point With When
you´re not shootinç rubber bands], and pry the hub in onto the bottom half. Then tilt it in so the top half seats açainst the other
half of the rubber band.
When you´ve mounted the bands, put them onto the shaft of the çear motors and secure them With the remaininç tWo #Z x 1/+¨
pointy screWs. NoW you can repeat the tests you did in step 1S With a live, movinç Sumovore!
Stretch band between finders... ...s|ide bottom of whee| in... ...and s|ide top of whee| in!
Hopefully this section Will be totally disreçarded, but if you´re still readinç, then you must have a Sumovore problem. Let´s see
What We can do to fix you up.
The first level of inspection is to carefully examine all your solder joints to make sure you have sufficient solder on each, and that
they´re all nice and shiny. About 10% of all failures We see are due to poor solderinç so don´t simply say "Uhh... my solderinç is
just fine - there must be a bad component!¨ Take the time to ço over your connections açain, even if you have to clip çear motor
zip-ties and peel sticky tape apart. You can alWays çet more zip-ties and use hot-çlue for the motors if you really need to. lf the
basic solderinç inspection didn´t reveal any failures, then let´s use a bit more analytical process to isolate the problem.
ked lE0 not coming on? lf the red LLD at the back isn´t turninç on, there is most likely a failure on the edçe sensor circuit
board, or there´s a problem With poWer connections. Check for:
Battery polarity & charçe - are batteries all in the riçht-Way around, and have a full charçe?
Battery pack connections are correct? Black Wires ço to square pads, remember?
There is a set of battery connection points for each pack, so make sure each pack is Wired to the riçht place.
The lk LLDs and rear red LLD are in the riçht Way around? They Won´t liçht up if they´re in backWards.
Front edçe sensor circuit board sittinç on all ß pins? lt´s easy to accidently move 1 pin over so you´re only connectinç to 1.
lf you have a voltmeter, check the voltaçe at the rear of the mainboard near the poWer sWitch in the box labeled ´DlAG1´.
You should measure º volts [the full battery voltaçe] betWeen a round pad and a square pad When the poWer sWitch is on. lf
not, there´s a bad poWer connection someplace...
Sumovore Spinning on the spot? First identify if one motor is dead, or spinninç in reverse. lf it´s spinninç, then the simple
ansWer is to ço back to the terminal blocks and reverse the connections for that motor. lf the motor is dead, check for:
Sufficient insulation stripped off Wire çoinç into terminal block. Bare Wire has to be clamped in the block.
Try manually spinninç the motor With poWer off. lf it´s considerably hard than spinninç the functional motor, you most likely
have a shorted motor. Check the motor terminal tabs and make sure nothinç is shortinç açainst the metal motor body
Sumovore SuspiciousIy SIow? Check the LZº3D installation. lt´ll Work backWards, but much sloWer than normal!
Edge Sensors AlWAYS Triggering? Òne or more of your ÇkD111+ edçe sensors are in backWards!
Troub|eshooting
lore troubleshootinç ansWers on the next paçe...
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Troub|eshooting (cont'd)
Sumovore not seeing the white edge Iine? Start With the front edçe sensors board [çood thinç that sensor board is easily
removable, eh?]. The sensors are pretty çood at detectinç White, so leavinç the trimpots in the middle position as a default is a
çood place to start. You´ll only need to really mess With them When you´re settinç up for line-folloWer mode.
Òne or more lk reflector sensors may be in backWards. lake sure they´re ALL in the correct Way around.
The lk reflector sensors have a very short rançe, so if they´re further than 1/+¨ [1mm] from the surface, they may not see
the line. Full the sensor board doWnWard a bit on the pins and see if that makes a difference.
Try tuninç them to maximum sensitivity by turninç the sinçle-turn 10k trimpots on the corner fully clockWise.
The lk reflector sensors are sensitive to infrared liçht, Which means What you miçht think is reflective may not be to the
sensors. keçular paper reflects lk Well, as do your finçertips. lany White plastics look "transparent¨ to lk.
The Sumovore needs the front lk circuit board to be installed to shoW any siçn of life. lf it isn´t in properly or is installed
backWards, nothinç Will happen!
Sumovore not seeing Opponents? lt´s time to Watch those red LLDs!
The rear red LLD indicates that the lk transmitters are Workinç. lf there´s no liçht, one [or both] of the clear lk LLDs may be
in backWards, or the rear red LLD is in backWards.
lf your rear red LLD is on, but still no detectinç is happeninç, make sure you´ve folloWed the lk transmit frequency tuninç
We discussed in "Buildinç the Body - Step 11¨. TWiddle that Z0k multiturn trimpot on the edçe-detection board!
Check the lk detectors are Workinç by usinç any TV / VCk / DVD remote control. Foint it at each lk detector on the top
corners of the mainboard While pressinç any button. Does the red LLD riçht behind the detector blink? lf yes, the problem
lies With the lk transmitter. lf no, then make sure you have the indicator LLDs installed the correct Way and the solder
connections are secure. lf you have a multimeter, see if you can measure S volts betWeen the middle and riçht pin of the lk
receiver.
lf you´re fortunate enouçh to have an oscilloscope or frequency-countinç multimeter, try measurinç the frequency at the
points labeled "DlAGZ - SSS Òutput¨ on the edçe-sensor board. You should see a nice square Wave pattern, or a
frequency count in the 30 to ó0kHz rançe. Tune it to be betWeen 3+kHz and +ZkHz for best performance.
There are ßite Marks on my Sumovore! Stop throWinç it for your doç to catch. And keep your cat off your Workbench.
l don't have enough traction! Try layerinç both traction bands onto your Wheels for a softer tire. And clean them betWeen
matches With rubbinç alcohol. And don´t forçet, you can "bulk up¨ your Sumovore to S00 çrams for maximum traction!
My Startup timer is too long/Short! Ah, that´s easy to fix. lf your Sumovore has the trimpot on the top riçht side of your
discrete brainboard, then turn it clockWise for lonçer delay, counter-clockWise for shorter.
My Sumovore is turning too Much/Not Enough when it sees the white Iine! Another easy fix. The tWo trimpots at the middle
of the discrete brainboard each adjust the time the Sumovore spends backinç up and turninç When that side çets activated. lf it´s
barely backinç off and turninç When the riçht edçe sensor touches the line, then turn the middle-riçht trimpot more clockWise.
line-IoIIower mode sucks! Line-folloWer competitions require finesse and skillful tuninç. Line folloWer mode uses the black line
to turn off the motor on the side that detects the black line, Which rotates the Sumovore back until the edçe sensor no lonçer sees
the black line. Here´s the proper tuninç procedure:
1] Turn both 10k sinçle-turn trimpots full counter-clockWise.
Z] Flace your Sumovore on a White section of your line-folloWer track.
3] SloWly turn each pot clockWise until the motor on that same side activates.
+] kepeat for the other side
lf you´re çoinç to be doinç lots of line folloWer, you may Want to take advantaçe of the holes on the front sensor plate near the
edçe, and mount a loW-friction slider to make your Sumovore quicker and more maneuverable.
My Sumovore has edges sensors that are touchy and hard to tune! This is more common if you have a briçhter-coloured
front plate, like yelloW or White. The lk liçht from the edçe sensors is beinç reflected around by the backside of the plate causinç
false readinçs, so colour the backside of the front plate black to reduce these unWanted reflections.
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Fu|| Schemntic Dingrnm
100k

+
+
+
3k

20k Trimpot
555
0.01  F
IR RED IR
240

240

10k Trimpot
+
M
M
47k

47k

47k

47k

47k

47k

1k

1k

0.47  F
0.47  F
+ +
To SWT2
IR
IR Left
IR Right
+
+
To IR Left
0.1  F
1M

1k

6.8  F
6.8  F
6.8  F
IR
+
+
To IR Right
1M

1k

6.8  F
R5
C9
R6
TP1
Q1
LED4 LED5 LED3
R1 R2
R27
R26
R3 R4
0.1  F
C4
C5
C3 C2
Left Right
11 10 9 8
2 1 3 4
C16
C15
LED1 LED2
13 12 5 6 1
2
3
1
2
3
SWT3
10k Trimpot
470k

470k

IC4
R7
R11
TP2
TP3
+
+
2 18
4 16
15 5 6 14
13 7 8 12
C13
C14
R13
R12
470k

470k

R15
R14
LED7
LED6
D8
D7
R22
R23
R20 47k

R21
Edge-Ramming
Inhibitor
R18
D2
D1
R19
D3
R24
1k

1k

R25
D4
R17
R16
11 9
D5
D6
C11
C12
6.8  F
Det1 Det2
6.8  F
C9
0.01  F
+
+
2N2222
QRD1114
QRD1114
+ +
5 Second Startup
38khz IR emitter
38khz IR Object Sensors
10 15
11 14
Left
Right
2 3 7 6
+
2937
SWT1
6* AA
2
1
3
5V out
9V out to L293D
Voltage Reg
3 17
Line Follower
Jumper
Line Follower
Jumper
Sumo
Jumper
+
+
+
+
+ +
+
C1
1000  F
Opt.
Diode
Dual IR
Detect
"Charge"
Sumo
Jumper
"Sumo Dance"
Inhibitor
"Sumo Dance"
Inhibitor
Replace R26 with Diode for
swift reset button action
Opt
TP4
r
m
n

a
u
F
o

5

s
e
c
o
d
s
t
r
t
p

SWT2
C6
0.1  F
C7
0.1  F
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
E|ectronic Lnyout Dingrnm
Mainboard FCß
Discrete ßrainboard FCß
Edge Sensor ßoard FCß
2
9
3
L
D

74AC14
M M
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
9V
6V
9V
5V
2
9
3
7

IR
DET1
IR
DET2
LED3
IC1

I
C
2
5V
5V
R3
R4
C4
C5
C3 C2
5V
5V
5V
5V
5V
5V
Plug
2
25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 Plug
1
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
H3
H4
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
H1
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
H1
1M0
1M0
6.8  F 6.8  F
0.1  F
0.1  F
RED
LED1
R1
+
LED2
R2
+
1k

1k

1000  F
Right Left
SWT2
C6
0.01  F
C7
0.01  F
+ 9V
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Renr Sensor Option
Sumovore kear Sensor Option: You may have noticed the spots at the rear center of the mainboard labled ´Òpt lk DLT3´ and
´Òpt Cß´. These are the mountinç points for another FNA+ó0Z lk sensor and 0.1µF filter capacitor. The idea is to install a rear-
lookinç sensor, so it´s less likely that you Will be approached from behind and "escorted¨ out to the edçe of the sumo rinç.
lnstallation is straiçhtforWard, simply mount these parts in the locations mentioned, but you´ll most likely have to cut the lead
lençths doWn as there Will most likely be stuff in the Way beloW. You´re noW half-Way there!
So What do you have to do to finish çettinç all the Way there? Well, it´s one thinç to detect an opponent behind you, but What are
you çoinç to do about it? We´re çoinç to use a positive detection triççer the same behaviour as if the opponent Was detected by
the left or riçht sensor. We´ll run the output siçnal from the rear sensor to one of the front sensor outputs, so a rear-detection
triççers the same response as a left or riçht detection.
Solder a Wire from the pad just above the DLT3 sensor position, and thread it
throuçh the one of the holes on the mainboard to up near Where you Wired up
the +AA battery holder. lf you look closely, you´ll see tWo pads labled ´kiçht´
and ´Left´. Fick a direction you Want your Sumovore to turn When it detects a
rear opponent, and solder your Wire to that pad.
What you´ve finished noW is a passive sensor, Which is that it doesn´t send out
a siçnal to detect the opponent. lt´s dependinç on the opponent to broadcast
a 3ßkHz lk siçnal [very common] for you to detect. Like a submarine just
listeninç for its adversary.
lf you Want to be proactive and send out active "pinçs¨ to locate your
opponent, you can install an lk emitter in parallel With the red indicator LLD at
the back. lf you look at the bottom just beloW this LLD, you´ll see a second set
of solder points Where you can solder on an lk emitter. You can use another
focused emitter like the front of your Sumovore, or use a Wide-ançle emitter
like the ÒF1+0A shoWn in the picture - practically any lk emitter Will do the
job. Be aWare that installinç the extra emitter Will most likely pull enouçh
poWer aWay from the red LLD that it Won´t liçht up anymore. lf you Wish, you
can yank the red LLD riçht out and install your lk emitter there instead - just
make sure it doesn´t poke out far enouçh to violate the 10 x 10cm maximum
size rule. ße warned: - if your opponent is lookinç for a 3ßkHz siçnal,
you´ve just put a biç ´ol beacon for him to lock on to!
Step 3: Insta|| Senser, capaciter and ene end ef wire
Wire
connection
Sensor
Wire
kiçht / Left
sensor connection
pads
Step S: Cennect ether end ef wire te
'Right' er 'Left'
Step 2: Thread wire threugh te frent right side
Step 4 (Dpt.): Insta|| IR Emitter
be|ew LEDS
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Add-ons nnd Upgrndes!
We've been saying aII aIong that the Sumovore is a IIexibIe minisumo
pIatIorm - here's our prooI!
The Brainboard add-ons for our Sumovore have been very popular. Fick your flavour, and convert your Sumovore into somethinç
you are comfortable proçramminç!
All microcontrollers [except StampStacks] come preloaded With default code desiçned to make your Sumovore a line-folloWer and
mini-sumo. DoWnload the source from our Website, and use it as a startinç point for your oWn code!
The AtmeI ßrainboard uses the Atmel
leçaßL - a very popular, poWerful,
inexpensive microcontroller that
replaces our oWn discrete brain.
Some of our customers have used
this to convert their Sumovore into
aWard-Winninç line folloWers!
The llC ßrainboard
uses the 1óFß11a, Which
is another very popular
microcontoller that replaces our
oWn discrete brain. Beinç a very Well
established lC, it has a larçe number of very çood development
tools.
Kit 33b:
Atme| Nega8L Brainbeard
Kit 33c:
Nicrechip PIC 36F877a
Brainbeard
Kit 33a:
BS2 Brainbeard Adapter
HSS2:
Stamp Stack II Nicrecentre||er
The ßS2 ßrainboard adapter lets you interface practically any of the Farallax BSZ [and
compatible] series of microcontrollers to your Sumovore. The BSZ is çreat for beçinninç
proçrammers, as the FBASlC proçramminç environment is easy, very Well documented, and
reasonably poWerful. [Note: This is just the adapter - you must provide your oWn BSZ
compatible, like the HSSZ Stamp Stack]
The HSS2 HVWTech Stamp Stack ll is a 100%
compatible Basic Stamp Z microcontroller, With
added in features to make it beçinner friendly. lt´s
Wired to protect from backWard battery-hookup,
and included an onboard reset sWitch, plus easily
replaceable core components.
Think you´re ready for some more poWer, huh punk? Think you
can handle triple the speed and double the torque? Òk, here ya
ço, the kM2 - don´t forçet to make the necessary adjustments
to your Sumovore!
Òr, if you happen to damaçe a motor, çet the kM3 replacement!
RN2 Upgrade Neter /
RNS Rep|acement Neter
Traction is What it´s all about. Try the GMlW-GT Gummy Tires for a
competitive edçe!
The So|nrbotics Sumovore
Mini-Sumo Competition Ru|es
There are a çood many robot clubs and contests that run their oWn mini-sumo contests, and most adhere to the same rules.
Here´s a short list of the rules you can expect to see at these competitions.
The kobot
lust not Weiçh more than S00 çrams [1.1lb]
lust fit in a 10cm [3.º31in] by 10cm square but can be any heiçht
Sumo must not move for the first S seconds of match
Sumo is alloWed to expand after the S second startup
No Weapons! [i.e. FlamethroWers or Blades of Doom!]
No damaçinç the rinç! [i.e. SaW blade Wheels or drillinç holes]
Tires must not be sticky
The Competition lIatIorm king
kinç has a 11cm diameter
kinç is a flat black surface With a Z.Scm [1in] Wide White rinç around the perimeter
There are tWo parallel startinç lines With a Width of 1cm a lençth of 10cm and are located 10cm apart from the center of
the rinç. These lines are broWn so that they do not triççer any lk edçe sensors.
kinç is usually constructed With black melamine but some events use steel platforms
kinç heiçht is usually Z inches for edçe detectinç robots, some competitions use a rinç heiçht of 1 inch
kunning oI the Competition
You have to Win tWo of three matches to Win your bout
latches are a maximum of 3 minutes in lençth
lf it is açreed betWeen both competitors the match may end earlier [l.e.: if both sumo cease to function]
The hiçher-ranked sumo [or Winner from previous match] is placed first on the rinç and positioned. The lesser-ranked
robot is then alloWed to position.
Upon the siçnal from the referee/judçe, the robots are activated. No motion from the robot is alloWed for five seconds
upon activation. This alloWs competitors to çet a safe distance aWay from the competition platform.
North American rules state that you may position your robot to start anyWhere behind in the zone extendinç from the
startinç line off to the left and riçht edçes of the sumo rinç.
}apanese rules state that you may position your robot to start so that some portion of it is touchinç the zone extendinç
directly backWard from the ends of the startinç line to the rear edçe.
Want to discuss your Sumovore With other Sumovore oWners? Visit our Yahooçroup at:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Sumovore/
lf you have any questions reçardinç this kit, please contact us!
SoIarbotics ltd.
Z01 - 3Sth Avenue N.L.
Calçary, Alberta, Canada TZL ZKS
Toll Free: ßóó-Z1ó-Zóß1 / +03-Z3Z-óZóß Fax: [+03] ZZó-31+1
Website: http://WWW.solarbotics.com
Lmail: [email protected]
© Copyriçht Solarbotics Ltd., Z00S
The So|nrbotics Sumovore

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