Seattle
Content
Introduction
Imagine yourself sitting in a park on the Seattle waterfront, a latte and a marionberry scone
close at hand. The snowy peaks of the Olympic Mountains shimmer on the far side of Puget
Sound, while ferryboats come and go across Elliott Bay. It's a sunny summer day, not a cloud
in the sky. It just doesn't get much better than this, unless maybe you take in a 9:30pm
summer sunset from the Space Needle or the Olympic Sculpture Park and then head to a
brewpub. No wonder people love this town.
Things to Do
For a bottom-to-top tour of Seattle, join the Underground Tour and hide out beneath the
streets of historic Pioneer Square, then later take an elevator to the clouds at the Space
Needle. Between these extremes, you can walk the waterfront, watch salmon climb the fish
ladder at Ballard Locks, see fish fly at Pike Place Market, and sail off into the sunset. If the
Space Needle isn't spacey enough, visit EMP/SFM, a museum dedicated to rock music and
science fiction.
Active Pursuits
If you visit Seattle and don't get out on the water while you're in town, you're missing out on
what makes this city so distinctive. With Lakes Union and Washington, Elliott Bay, and Puget
Sound surrounding the city, you'll have ample opportunities to go boating. However, the
quintessential Seattle outing is a paddle around Lake Union in a sea kayak. You'll paddle past
houseboats, see floatplanes, and even have the chance to tie up at a waterfront restaurant.
Eating & Drinking
In a city where people discuss the merits of oysters from different local bays and anxiously
await the annual return of Copper River salmon, it should come as no surprise that Pike Place
Market, with its fishmongers and food stalls, is one of Seattle's top attractions. A day spent
noshing in the market can be a foodie's dream come true. Visit such popular dining districts as
Capitol Hill and Ballard, and you'll quickly learn that this is a city obsessed with eating
locally.
Nightlife & Entertainment
If you think Seattle nightlife still means grunge music, dude, wake up! The grunge scene died
with Kurt Cobain, but that doesn't mean there's nothing to do here at night. Whether you're
into Wagner or weird, Seattle's got you covered. Seattle Center and Benaroya Hall keep the
cultured crowd happy, while Pike Place Market has clubs staging wild cabaret acts. You can
even do dinner and the circus at Teatro ZinZanni. Then again, you just might want to raise a
pint of local ale to Kurt's memory.
Frommer's Favorite Experiences
Eating Your Way Through Pike Place Market: Breakfast at Le Pichet, espresso at
what was once the only Starbucks in the world, lunch at Café Campagne, a martini at
The Pink Door, dinner at Matt's in the Market, Celtic music at Kells, and a nightcap at
Il Bistro -- that's how you could spend a day at Pike Place. Between stops on this
rigorous itinerary, you can people-watch, listen to street musicians, and shop for
everything from fresh salmon to tropical fruits, to magic tricks, to art glass.
Strolling the Olympic Sculpture Park: With views of Puget Sound and the Olympic
Mountains, and sculptures by Alexander Calder, Claes Oldenburg, and Richard Serra,
this terraced park at the north end of the Seattle waterfront is great for a stroll any time
of day, but is absolutely sublime at sunset.
Joining the Underground: Rome has its catacombs, Paris has its sewers, and Seattle
has its underground. Now, some people, including my own brother, think I'm nuts for
enjoying the Seattle Underground Tour, but corny sewer jokes aside, this tour is
fascinating and a great introduction to the seamier side of Seattle's early history.
Spending an Afternoon in the Ballard Neighborhood: Watch the salmon climb the
fish ladders and swim past viewing windows at the Hiram M. Chittenden (Ballard)
Locks. Check out the exhibits at the Nordic Heritage Museum, and then stroll the
shady streets of old Ballard. Have a meal at Ray's Boathouse, keeping an eye out for
bald eagles, and then finish the day on the beach at Golden Gardens Park.
Taking a Cruise: Seattle is best seen from a boat, and there are plenty of vessels that
will take you out on the water. Personally, I prefer sailboat outings from the
waterfront, but for a more informative and diverse excursion, take the Argosy Cruises
tour from Lake Union to the waterfront. If you don't mind flaunting the fact that you're
a tourist, there's the daffy Seattle Duck Tour.
Visiting Volunteer Park: Whether the day is sunny or gray, this park on Capitol Hill
is a great spot to spend an afternoon. You can relax in the grass, study Chinese snuff
bottles in the Seattle Asian Art Museum, marvel at the orchids in the conservatory, or
simply enjoy the great view of the city from the top of the park's water tower.
Riding the Water Taxi to Alki Beach: The water taxi that operates between the
Seattle waterfront and Alki Beach, on the far side of Elliott Bay, is practically the
cheapest boat ride you can take in Seattle. Once you get to Alki Beach, you can dine
with a killer view of the Seattle skyline, and then go for a walk or bike ride on the
beachfront path.
Best Dining Bets
Best Taste of Seattle: Dahlia Lounge: You can't say that you've "done" Seattle if you
haven't eaten at a Tom Douglas restaurant, and for my money, Dahlia Lounge is the
place to go if you're going to dine at only one. A dinner of crab cakes followed by
coconut-cream pie captures the absolute essence of this place.
Best for Families: Ivar's Salmon House resembles a Native American longhouse and
is filled with cool stuff sure to fascinate kids. In sunny weather, the waterfront deck
has a great view of Lake Union and the Seattle skyline.
Best Value: Of course you could shell out big bucks to dine at Salty's on Alki Beach ,
but you can get the same view at a fraction of the cost at the adjacent Alki Crab &
Fish Co. Okay, so the menu is pretty limited, but the fish and chips are excellent, and
that view -- wow!
Best Splurge: The Seattle area's best splurge restaurant is actually a 30-minute drive
away. The Herbfarm, in Woodinville -- the Seattle-area's wine country -- puts on
lavish nine-course dinners that celebrate fresh Northwest flavors.
Most Romantic: There's no denying that Tuscany is one of the world's most romantic
destinations, so it isn't surprising that Volterra, an Italian restaurant on a shady street
in the historic Ballard neighborhood, is the perfect place for a romantic dinner.
Best Service: Canlis is a Seattle tradition, the perfect place to close a big deal or
celebrate a special occasion. When you want to feel pampered, this is the place to
dine.
Best View: Without a doubt, SkyCity has the best views in Seattle -- 360 degrees
worth of them. Sure, it's expensive, but there's no place in town with views to rival
these.
Best Northwest Cuisine: At Rover's, Chef Thierry Rautureau combines his love of
local ingredients with classic French training to produce a distinctive take on
Northwest cuisine.
Best Steaks: Metropolitan Grill in downtown Seattle, serves corn-fed, aged beef
grilled over mesquite charcoal. Steaks just don't get any better than this.
Best Cured Meats: At Salumi, you'll stand in line on the sidewalk, then squeeze your
way into this Pioneer Square hole-in-the-wall, where you'll savor the finest, freshest
artisan-made salami in the Northwest.
Best Sushi: If the sight of so much fresh fish in Pike Place Market has you craving
sushi, then head up to the north end of Belltown to Shiro's Sushi Restaurant. All the
Japanese businessmen here should give you a clue that this place is the real deal.
Best Waterfront Dining: The best waterfront dining experience is in the Edgewater
hotel. Six-Seven can claim not only superb food, but also cool decor, a fabulous deck,
and one of the best views from any restaurant in the city. The Northwest produces an
astonishing variety of oysters, and locals are almost as obsessive about their bivalves
as they are about coffee and beer. For the best selection, head to Elliott's Oyster
House.
Best Hotel Bets
Best Splurges: The modern Four Seasons Hotel Seattle has an enviable location
adjacent to Pike Place Market and across the street from the Seattle Art Museum. If
you love the romance of travel as much as I do, then you'll want to stay at the Arctic
Club Seattle. Built in 1917 as an exclusive men's club, it has a sort of Art Deco travel
theme in its decor. Big rooms have walls of glass that take in great views of the city
and Elliott Bay at the Hotel 1000, and the bathrooms are works of art. A special golf
room even lets you play virtual golf at more than 50 famous golf courses.
The Best Moderately Priced Hotels: Although this luxurious lodge is located within
a quarter mile of the Sea-Tac Airport, the Cedarbrook Lodge feels as though it is in a
secluded setting miles from the bustle of the city. Only a block away from Seattle
Center and close to the Space Needle, the Maxwell Hotel, plays up its connection to
the nearby theaters; rooms are all colorfully decorated and have very theatrical decor.
One of Seattle's most impressive historic hotels, the Sorrento Hotel is also one of the
city's best values. You can immerse yourself in hundred-year-old luxuries.
Best for Families: Just across the street from Lake Union, the Silver Cloud Inn-Lake
Union, is far enough from downtown to be affordable -- but not far from Seattle
Center. Plus it has a great location overlooking the lake. There are indoor and outdoor
pools and several restaurants right across the street.
Best Value: You don't have to be a timber baron to be able to stay in one of the most
impressive old mansions in Seattle. For less than $150 a night, you can spend the night
at the Shafer Baillie Mansion Bed & Breakfast, a 100-year-old mansion on Capitol
Hill's Millionaire's Row.
Most Romantic: Though Seattle has quite a few hotels that do well for a romantic
weekend, the Inn at the Market, with its Elliott Bay views, European atmosphere,
and proximity to many excellent (and romantic) restaurants, is sure to set the stage for
lasting memories.
Best Service: With 24-hour room service, a 24-hour exercise room, free Wi-Fi, and a
free town-car service to shuttle you around downtown, the Pan Pacific Hotel Seattle
provides far more extras than other Seattle hotels.
Best Historic Hotel: Built in 1924, the Fairmont Olympic Hotel, is styled after an
Italian Renaissance palace and is by far the most impressive of Seattle's historic hotels.
Best for Hipsters: The Hotel Ändra is a boldly contemporary lodging. Best of all, it's
on the edge of the Belltown neighborhood, which makes this an ideal base for clubcrawling night owls.
Best B&B: Set in the Capitol Hill neighborhood, the Gaslight Inn is a lovingly
restored and maintained Craftsman bungalow filled with original Stickley furniture.
Lots of public spaces, very tasteful decor, and a swimming pool in the backyard all
add up to unexpected luxury.
Best Location: On a pier right on the Seattle waterfront, the Edgewater is only 5
blocks from Pike Place Market and the Seattle Aquarium, and 3 blocks from the
restaurants of Belltown. Ferries to Victoria, British Columbia, leave from the adjacent
pier.
Best Views: If you're not back in your room by sunset at the Westin Seattle, you may
not turn into a pumpkin, but you will miss a spectacular light show. Because this is the
tallest hotel in the city, the Westin boasts fabulous views from its upper floors,
especially those facing northwest.
The Best Family Attractions
Wandering the Seattle Waterfront: Yes, it's touristy, but with an aquarium, a
carousel, boat-tour docks, and, best of all (at least as far as I'm concerned), Ye Olde
Curiosity Shop, this is the sort of waterfront that keeps kids entertained for hours.
Doing a Daffy Duck Tour: It's an open-air bus tour. No, it's a boat tour. No, it's both,
and it's exceedingly silly, especially if you opt for your own duck-billed "quacker"
noisemaker. Kids love these daffy duck tours aboard army surplus amphibious
vehicles. Just remind them that the family minivan does not belong in the lake.
Seeing Seattle Center: With a science museum, an IMAX theater, a children's
museum, a children's theater, and a choreographed multimedia fountain to play in, this
is Seattle's ultimate kid zone.
An Outing to the Snoqualmie Valley: Little ones enamored of Thomas the Tank
Engine will adore the Northwest Railway Museum and affiliated Snoqualmie Valley
Railroad. In summer, you can pick berries on local "U-pick" farms; and, in the fall,
you can see salmon spawning at a fish hatchery. Then there's Camlann Medieval
Village, where there are all sorts of fun activities all year.
EMP/SFM (Experience Music Project/Science Fiction Museum): If you've got
teenagers in tow, drop them at this pair of affiliated museums and they'll stay happy
for hours. EMP focuses on rock music with lots of cool interactive exhibits, while the
SFM has loads of props from Hollywood's most famous sci-fi movies.
The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences
Adding Your Contribution to the Gum Wall: Hey, when your gum has lost its
flavor, don't spit it out on the sidewalk; instead, turn it into alfresco art by adding it to
the "Gum Wall," Pike Place Market's self-adhesive display of ABC (already been
chewed) art.
Making Music Even If You Can't Carry a Tune in a Bucket: Even the musically
challenged can make beautiful music (well, sort of) at a couple of unusual Seattle
attractions. At the Experience Music Project, you can let your inner rock 'n' roller go
wild on simulated musical instruments, while at the Soundbridge Seattle Symphony
Music Discovery Center, fans of classical music can play a cello or conduct an
orchestra.
Counting Salmon at Ballard's Chittenden Locks: If you find yourself sleepless in
Seattle, forget about counting sheep. Try counting salmon. In fact, even if you aren't
suffering from insomnia, during the summer, the fish ladder and underwater viewing
windows at the Hiram M. Chittenden (Ballard) Locks are great places to count salmon.
Believing It or Not at Ye Olde Curiosity Shop: Two-headed calves, the Lord's
Prayer on a grain of rice, a human mummy. These are just some of the unbelievable
items on display at Ye Olde Curiosity Shop, Seattle's waterfront temple of the bizarre.
Buying a Flying Fish at Pike Place Market: At Pike Place Market, the pigs may not
fly, but the fish do. If you purchase a fresh salmon from the Pike Place Fish stall,
you'll get to watch it go sailing over the counter as the overalls-clad fishmongers put
on one of the best floor shows in the market.
The Best Outdoor Pursuits
Sea Kayaking on Lake Union: Lake Union is a very urban body of water, but it has a
great view of the Seattle skyline, and you can paddle right up to several waterfront
restaurants. For more natural surroundings, kayak over to the marshes at the north end
of the Washington Park Arboretum.
Cycling the Burke-Gilman Trail: Seattle-area cyclists are blessed with a plethora of
great cycling paths, and the granddaddy of them all is the Burke-Gilman Trail, which
stretches for more than 14 miles from the Ballard neighborhood to the north end of
Lake Washington. The Sammamish River Trail extends the trail for another dozen
miles or so. There's even a gravel extension of the trail along the east shore of Lake
Sammamish.
Going to an Outdoor Summer Movie or Concert: When the summer sun shines,
Seattleites spend as much time outdoors as they can, and among the city's favorite
outdoor activities is attending outdoor concerts and movies. Whether in parks or
parking lots, these outdoor performances bring out the lawn chairs and blankets.
Hiking up Mount Si: There's no getting around the fact that this hike is a real killer,
but ooh, the view from the top! Mount Si is less than 45 minutes east of Seattle and
rises straight up from the valley of the Snoqualmie River. The trail also goes straight
up, so if you aren't in good shape, don't even think of trying this hike.
Day-Tripping to Mount Rainier National Park: With growling glaciers, meadows
full of colorful wildflowers, and thousand-year-old trees, Mount Rainier National Park
always gets my vote for best day trip from Seattle. In summer, the opportunities for
hiking are abundant and the views are absolutely breathtaking; and, in winter, crosscountry skiing and snowshoeing provide opportunities for exploring a snowy
landscape.
Best Free Things to Do
Taking in the Sunset from the Waterfront: On clear summer days, the setting sun
silhouettes the Olympic Mountains on the far side of Puget Sound and makes sunset
on the Seattle waterfront a not-to-be-missed experience. Try the rooftop park at the
Bell Street Pier, Myrtle Edwards Park at the north end of the waterfront, the lounge at
The Edgewater hotel, or, my personal favorite sunset spot, the Olympic Sculpture
Park, which is adjacent to Myrtle Edwards Park.
Riding a Ferry Across Puget Sound: Sure, you could spend $20 or $30 for a narrated
tour of the Seattle waterfront, but for a fraction of that, you can take a ferry to
Bremerton or Bainbridge Island and see not just Elliott Bay, but also plenty more of
Puget Sound. Keep an eye out for porpoises and bald eagles.
Relaxing over a Latte: If the rain and gray skies start to get to you, there is no better
pick-me-up (short of a ticket to the tropics) than a frothy latte in a cozy cafe. Grab a
magazine and just hang out until the rain stops (maybe sometime in July).
Riding the Monorail: Though the ride is short, covering a distance that could easily
be walked in a half-hour, the monorail provides a different perspective on the city. The
retro-futurist transport, built for the Seattle World's Fair in 1962, ends at the foot of
the Space Needle and even passes right through the Experience Music Project
building.
Exploring a Waterfront Park: Seattle abounds with waterfront parks, where you can
gaze at distant shores, wiggle your toes in the sand, or walk through a remnant of oldgrowth forest. Some of my favorites include Discovery Park, Seward Park, Lincoln
Park, and Golden Gardens Park.
Museum-Hopping on First Thursday: On the first Thursday of each month, almost
all of Seattle's museums are open late, and most offer free admission for all or part of
the day. Get an early start, and be sure to check the opening and closing times of the
museums. Talk about a great way to save bucks on your vacation!
Taking a Free Boat Ride on Lake Union: Every Sunday afternoon, the Center for
Wooden Boats on Lake Union offers free boat rides in classic wooden boats. You can
watch noisy floatplanes landing and taking off as you sail serenely across the waves.
Strolling Through the Arboretum in Spring: Winters in Seattle may not be long,
but they do lack color. So when spring hits, the sudden bursts of brightness it brings
are reverently appreciated. There's no better place in the city to enjoy the spring floral
displays than the Washington Park Arboretum.
Stopping to Smell the Flowers: Whether it's a cold rainy day or a sunny summer
afternoon, a visit to the Volunteer Park Conservatory is a free ticket to the tropics.
There are always plenty of beautiful orchids in bloom, as well as lots of other unusual
tropical plants.
Provided by Frommer's Unlimited ® 2012, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
Imagine yourself sitting in a park on the Seattle waterfront, a latte and a marionberry scone
close at hand. The snowy peaks of the Olympic Mountains shimmer on the far side of Puget
Sound, while ferryboats come and go across Elliott Bay. It's a sunny summer day, not a cloud
in the sky. It just doesn't get much better than this, unless maybe you take in a 9:30pm
summer sunset from the Space Needle or the Olympic Sculpture Park and then head to a
brewpub. No wonder people love this town.
Things to Do
For a bottom-to-top tour of Seattle, join the Underground Tour and hide out beneath the
streets of historic Pioneer Square, then later take an elevator to the clouds at the Space
Needle. Between these extremes, you can walk the waterfront, watch salmon climb the fish
ladder at Ballard Locks, see fish fly at Pike Place Market, and sail off into the sunset. If the
Space Needle isn't spacey enough, visit EMP/SFM, a museum dedicated to rock music and
science fiction.
Active Pursuits
If you visit Seattle and don't get out on the water while you're in town, you're missing out on
what makes this city so distinctive. With Lakes Union and Washington, Elliott Bay, and Puget
Sound surrounding the city, you'll have ample opportunities to go boating. However, the
quintessential Seattle outing is a paddle around Lake Union in a sea kayak. You'll paddle past
houseboats, see floatplanes, and even have the chance to tie up at a waterfront restaurant.
Eating & Drinking
In a city where people discuss the merits of oysters from different local bays and anxiously
await the annual return of Copper River salmon, it should come as no surprise that Pike Place
Market, with its fishmongers and food stalls, is one of Seattle's top attractions. A day spent
noshing in the market can be a foodie's dream come true. Visit such popular dining districts as
Capitol Hill and Ballard, and you'll quickly learn that this is a city obsessed with eating
locally.
Nightlife & Entertainment
If you think Seattle nightlife still means grunge music, dude, wake up! The grunge scene died
with Kurt Cobain, but that doesn't mean there's nothing to do here at night. Whether you're
into Wagner or weird, Seattle's got you covered. Seattle Center and Benaroya Hall keep the
cultured crowd happy, while Pike Place Market has clubs staging wild cabaret acts. You can
even do dinner and the circus at Teatro ZinZanni. Then again, you just might want to raise a
pint of local ale to Kurt's memory.
Frommer's Favorite Experiences
Eating Your Way Through Pike Place Market: Breakfast at Le Pichet, espresso at
what was once the only Starbucks in the world, lunch at Café Campagne, a martini at
The Pink Door, dinner at Matt's in the Market, Celtic music at Kells, and a nightcap at
Il Bistro -- that's how you could spend a day at Pike Place. Between stops on this
rigorous itinerary, you can people-watch, listen to street musicians, and shop for
everything from fresh salmon to tropical fruits, to magic tricks, to art glass.
Strolling the Olympic Sculpture Park: With views of Puget Sound and the Olympic
Mountains, and sculptures by Alexander Calder, Claes Oldenburg, and Richard Serra,
this terraced park at the north end of the Seattle waterfront is great for a stroll any time
of day, but is absolutely sublime at sunset.
Joining the Underground: Rome has its catacombs, Paris has its sewers, and Seattle
has its underground. Now, some people, including my own brother, think I'm nuts for
enjoying the Seattle Underground Tour, but corny sewer jokes aside, this tour is
fascinating and a great introduction to the seamier side of Seattle's early history.
Spending an Afternoon in the Ballard Neighborhood: Watch the salmon climb the
fish ladders and swim past viewing windows at the Hiram M. Chittenden (Ballard)
Locks. Check out the exhibits at the Nordic Heritage Museum, and then stroll the
shady streets of old Ballard. Have a meal at Ray's Boathouse, keeping an eye out for
bald eagles, and then finish the day on the beach at Golden Gardens Park.
Taking a Cruise: Seattle is best seen from a boat, and there are plenty of vessels that
will take you out on the water. Personally, I prefer sailboat outings from the
waterfront, but for a more informative and diverse excursion, take the Argosy Cruises
tour from Lake Union to the waterfront. If you don't mind flaunting the fact that you're
a tourist, there's the daffy Seattle Duck Tour.
Visiting Volunteer Park: Whether the day is sunny or gray, this park on Capitol Hill
is a great spot to spend an afternoon. You can relax in the grass, study Chinese snuff
bottles in the Seattle Asian Art Museum, marvel at the orchids in the conservatory, or
simply enjoy the great view of the city from the top of the park's water tower.
Riding the Water Taxi to Alki Beach: The water taxi that operates between the
Seattle waterfront and Alki Beach, on the far side of Elliott Bay, is practically the
cheapest boat ride you can take in Seattle. Once you get to Alki Beach, you can dine
with a killer view of the Seattle skyline, and then go for a walk or bike ride on the
beachfront path.
Best Dining Bets
Best Taste of Seattle: Dahlia Lounge: You can't say that you've "done" Seattle if you
haven't eaten at a Tom Douglas restaurant, and for my money, Dahlia Lounge is the
place to go if you're going to dine at only one. A dinner of crab cakes followed by
coconut-cream pie captures the absolute essence of this place.
Best for Families: Ivar's Salmon House resembles a Native American longhouse and
is filled with cool stuff sure to fascinate kids. In sunny weather, the waterfront deck
has a great view of Lake Union and the Seattle skyline.
Best Value: Of course you could shell out big bucks to dine at Salty's on Alki Beach ,
but you can get the same view at a fraction of the cost at the adjacent Alki Crab &
Fish Co. Okay, so the menu is pretty limited, but the fish and chips are excellent, and
that view -- wow!
Best Splurge: The Seattle area's best splurge restaurant is actually a 30-minute drive
away. The Herbfarm, in Woodinville -- the Seattle-area's wine country -- puts on
lavish nine-course dinners that celebrate fresh Northwest flavors.
Most Romantic: There's no denying that Tuscany is one of the world's most romantic
destinations, so it isn't surprising that Volterra, an Italian restaurant on a shady street
in the historic Ballard neighborhood, is the perfect place for a romantic dinner.
Best Service: Canlis is a Seattle tradition, the perfect place to close a big deal or
celebrate a special occasion. When you want to feel pampered, this is the place to
dine.
Best View: Without a doubt, SkyCity has the best views in Seattle -- 360 degrees
worth of them. Sure, it's expensive, but there's no place in town with views to rival
these.
Best Northwest Cuisine: At Rover's, Chef Thierry Rautureau combines his love of
local ingredients with classic French training to produce a distinctive take on
Northwest cuisine.
Best Steaks: Metropolitan Grill in downtown Seattle, serves corn-fed, aged beef
grilled over mesquite charcoal. Steaks just don't get any better than this.
Best Cured Meats: At Salumi, you'll stand in line on the sidewalk, then squeeze your
way into this Pioneer Square hole-in-the-wall, where you'll savor the finest, freshest
artisan-made salami in the Northwest.
Best Sushi: If the sight of so much fresh fish in Pike Place Market has you craving
sushi, then head up to the north end of Belltown to Shiro's Sushi Restaurant. All the
Japanese businessmen here should give you a clue that this place is the real deal.
Best Waterfront Dining: The best waterfront dining experience is in the Edgewater
hotel. Six-Seven can claim not only superb food, but also cool decor, a fabulous deck,
and one of the best views from any restaurant in the city. The Northwest produces an
astonishing variety of oysters, and locals are almost as obsessive about their bivalves
as they are about coffee and beer. For the best selection, head to Elliott's Oyster
House.
Best Hotel Bets
Best Splurges: The modern Four Seasons Hotel Seattle has an enviable location
adjacent to Pike Place Market and across the street from the Seattle Art Museum. If
you love the romance of travel as much as I do, then you'll want to stay at the Arctic
Club Seattle. Built in 1917 as an exclusive men's club, it has a sort of Art Deco travel
theme in its decor. Big rooms have walls of glass that take in great views of the city
and Elliott Bay at the Hotel 1000, and the bathrooms are works of art. A special golf
room even lets you play virtual golf at more than 50 famous golf courses.
The Best Moderately Priced Hotels: Although this luxurious lodge is located within
a quarter mile of the Sea-Tac Airport, the Cedarbrook Lodge feels as though it is in a
secluded setting miles from the bustle of the city. Only a block away from Seattle
Center and close to the Space Needle, the Maxwell Hotel, plays up its connection to
the nearby theaters; rooms are all colorfully decorated and have very theatrical decor.
One of Seattle's most impressive historic hotels, the Sorrento Hotel is also one of the
city's best values. You can immerse yourself in hundred-year-old luxuries.
Best for Families: Just across the street from Lake Union, the Silver Cloud Inn-Lake
Union, is far enough from downtown to be affordable -- but not far from Seattle
Center. Plus it has a great location overlooking the lake. There are indoor and outdoor
pools and several restaurants right across the street.
Best Value: You don't have to be a timber baron to be able to stay in one of the most
impressive old mansions in Seattle. For less than $150 a night, you can spend the night
at the Shafer Baillie Mansion Bed & Breakfast, a 100-year-old mansion on Capitol
Hill's Millionaire's Row.
Most Romantic: Though Seattle has quite a few hotels that do well for a romantic
weekend, the Inn at the Market, with its Elliott Bay views, European atmosphere,
and proximity to many excellent (and romantic) restaurants, is sure to set the stage for
lasting memories.
Best Service: With 24-hour room service, a 24-hour exercise room, free Wi-Fi, and a
free town-car service to shuttle you around downtown, the Pan Pacific Hotel Seattle
provides far more extras than other Seattle hotels.
Best Historic Hotel: Built in 1924, the Fairmont Olympic Hotel, is styled after an
Italian Renaissance palace and is by far the most impressive of Seattle's historic hotels.
Best for Hipsters: The Hotel Ändra is a boldly contemporary lodging. Best of all, it's
on the edge of the Belltown neighborhood, which makes this an ideal base for clubcrawling night owls.
Best B&B: Set in the Capitol Hill neighborhood, the Gaslight Inn is a lovingly
restored and maintained Craftsman bungalow filled with original Stickley furniture.
Lots of public spaces, very tasteful decor, and a swimming pool in the backyard all
add up to unexpected luxury.
Best Location: On a pier right on the Seattle waterfront, the Edgewater is only 5
blocks from Pike Place Market and the Seattle Aquarium, and 3 blocks from the
restaurants of Belltown. Ferries to Victoria, British Columbia, leave from the adjacent
pier.
Best Views: If you're not back in your room by sunset at the Westin Seattle, you may
not turn into a pumpkin, but you will miss a spectacular light show. Because this is the
tallest hotel in the city, the Westin boasts fabulous views from its upper floors,
especially those facing northwest.
The Best Family Attractions
Wandering the Seattle Waterfront: Yes, it's touristy, but with an aquarium, a
carousel, boat-tour docks, and, best of all (at least as far as I'm concerned), Ye Olde
Curiosity Shop, this is the sort of waterfront that keeps kids entertained for hours.
Doing a Daffy Duck Tour: It's an open-air bus tour. No, it's a boat tour. No, it's both,
and it's exceedingly silly, especially if you opt for your own duck-billed "quacker"
noisemaker. Kids love these daffy duck tours aboard army surplus amphibious
vehicles. Just remind them that the family minivan does not belong in the lake.
Seeing Seattle Center: With a science museum, an IMAX theater, a children's
museum, a children's theater, and a choreographed multimedia fountain to play in, this
is Seattle's ultimate kid zone.
An Outing to the Snoqualmie Valley: Little ones enamored of Thomas the Tank
Engine will adore the Northwest Railway Museum and affiliated Snoqualmie Valley
Railroad. In summer, you can pick berries on local "U-pick" farms; and, in the fall,
you can see salmon spawning at a fish hatchery. Then there's Camlann Medieval
Village, where there are all sorts of fun activities all year.
EMP/SFM (Experience Music Project/Science Fiction Museum): If you've got
teenagers in tow, drop them at this pair of affiliated museums and they'll stay happy
for hours. EMP focuses on rock music with lots of cool interactive exhibits, while the
SFM has loads of props from Hollywood's most famous sci-fi movies.
The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences
Adding Your Contribution to the Gum Wall: Hey, when your gum has lost its
flavor, don't spit it out on the sidewalk; instead, turn it into alfresco art by adding it to
the "Gum Wall," Pike Place Market's self-adhesive display of ABC (already been
chewed) art.
Making Music Even If You Can't Carry a Tune in a Bucket: Even the musically
challenged can make beautiful music (well, sort of) at a couple of unusual Seattle
attractions. At the Experience Music Project, you can let your inner rock 'n' roller go
wild on simulated musical instruments, while at the Soundbridge Seattle Symphony
Music Discovery Center, fans of classical music can play a cello or conduct an
orchestra.
Counting Salmon at Ballard's Chittenden Locks: If you find yourself sleepless in
Seattle, forget about counting sheep. Try counting salmon. In fact, even if you aren't
suffering from insomnia, during the summer, the fish ladder and underwater viewing
windows at the Hiram M. Chittenden (Ballard) Locks are great places to count salmon.
Believing It or Not at Ye Olde Curiosity Shop: Two-headed calves, the Lord's
Prayer on a grain of rice, a human mummy. These are just some of the unbelievable
items on display at Ye Olde Curiosity Shop, Seattle's waterfront temple of the bizarre.
Buying a Flying Fish at Pike Place Market: At Pike Place Market, the pigs may not
fly, but the fish do. If you purchase a fresh salmon from the Pike Place Fish stall,
you'll get to watch it go sailing over the counter as the overalls-clad fishmongers put
on one of the best floor shows in the market.
The Best Outdoor Pursuits
Sea Kayaking on Lake Union: Lake Union is a very urban body of water, but it has a
great view of the Seattle skyline, and you can paddle right up to several waterfront
restaurants. For more natural surroundings, kayak over to the marshes at the north end
of the Washington Park Arboretum.
Cycling the Burke-Gilman Trail: Seattle-area cyclists are blessed with a plethora of
great cycling paths, and the granddaddy of them all is the Burke-Gilman Trail, which
stretches for more than 14 miles from the Ballard neighborhood to the north end of
Lake Washington. The Sammamish River Trail extends the trail for another dozen
miles or so. There's even a gravel extension of the trail along the east shore of Lake
Sammamish.
Going to an Outdoor Summer Movie or Concert: When the summer sun shines,
Seattleites spend as much time outdoors as they can, and among the city's favorite
outdoor activities is attending outdoor concerts and movies. Whether in parks or
parking lots, these outdoor performances bring out the lawn chairs and blankets.
Hiking up Mount Si: There's no getting around the fact that this hike is a real killer,
but ooh, the view from the top! Mount Si is less than 45 minutes east of Seattle and
rises straight up from the valley of the Snoqualmie River. The trail also goes straight
up, so if you aren't in good shape, don't even think of trying this hike.
Day-Tripping to Mount Rainier National Park: With growling glaciers, meadows
full of colorful wildflowers, and thousand-year-old trees, Mount Rainier National Park
always gets my vote for best day trip from Seattle. In summer, the opportunities for
hiking are abundant and the views are absolutely breathtaking; and, in winter, crosscountry skiing and snowshoeing provide opportunities for exploring a snowy
landscape.
Best Free Things to Do
Taking in the Sunset from the Waterfront: On clear summer days, the setting sun
silhouettes the Olympic Mountains on the far side of Puget Sound and makes sunset
on the Seattle waterfront a not-to-be-missed experience. Try the rooftop park at the
Bell Street Pier, Myrtle Edwards Park at the north end of the waterfront, the lounge at
The Edgewater hotel, or, my personal favorite sunset spot, the Olympic Sculpture
Park, which is adjacent to Myrtle Edwards Park.
Riding a Ferry Across Puget Sound: Sure, you could spend $20 or $30 for a narrated
tour of the Seattle waterfront, but for a fraction of that, you can take a ferry to
Bremerton or Bainbridge Island and see not just Elliott Bay, but also plenty more of
Puget Sound. Keep an eye out for porpoises and bald eagles.
Relaxing over a Latte: If the rain and gray skies start to get to you, there is no better
pick-me-up (short of a ticket to the tropics) than a frothy latte in a cozy cafe. Grab a
magazine and just hang out until the rain stops (maybe sometime in July).
Riding the Monorail: Though the ride is short, covering a distance that could easily
be walked in a half-hour, the monorail provides a different perspective on the city. The
retro-futurist transport, built for the Seattle World's Fair in 1962, ends at the foot of
the Space Needle and even passes right through the Experience Music Project
building.
Exploring a Waterfront Park: Seattle abounds with waterfront parks, where you can
gaze at distant shores, wiggle your toes in the sand, or walk through a remnant of oldgrowth forest. Some of my favorites include Discovery Park, Seward Park, Lincoln
Park, and Golden Gardens Park.
Museum-Hopping on First Thursday: On the first Thursday of each month, almost
all of Seattle's museums are open late, and most offer free admission for all or part of
the day. Get an early start, and be sure to check the opening and closing times of the
museums. Talk about a great way to save bucks on your vacation!
Taking a Free Boat Ride on Lake Union: Every Sunday afternoon, the Center for
Wooden Boats on Lake Union offers free boat rides in classic wooden boats. You can
watch noisy floatplanes landing and taking off as you sail serenely across the waves.
Strolling Through the Arboretum in Spring: Winters in Seattle may not be long,
but they do lack color. So when spring hits, the sudden bursts of brightness it brings
are reverently appreciated. There's no better place in the city to enjoy the spring floral
displays than the Washington Park Arboretum.
Stopping to Smell the Flowers: Whether it's a cold rainy day or a sunny summer
afternoon, a visit to the Volunteer Park Conservatory is a free ticket to the tropics.
There are always plenty of beautiful orchids in bloom, as well as lots of other unusual
tropical plants.
Provided by Frommer's Unlimited ® 2012, John Wiley & Sons, Inc.
