The Evolution of Fashion

Hhe

Sbolution

of

ifashion

BY

FLORENCE

Author

of ^'"Furnishings

MARY

and

Fittings for

SIR

THE

COTTON

PRESS,

GARDINER

ROBERT

Granvii^le

BRUCE

Every

Home"

^^

About

Gipsies,"

COTTON.

House,

Arundel

Street,

VV-C-

TO

EVELYN,

FRANCES

Countess

special

movements

all

unsurpassed,

Volume,

This

by

is

women

benefit

to

calculated

in

interest

kindly

and

enthusiastic

whose

Warwick,

of

dedicated,

respectfully

is

permission,

BY

AUTHOR.

THE

in

Her

Majesty

Queen

the

year

Victoria's

1897.

of

Diamond

Jubilee,

I

I
I

PREFACE.

T

N

the

in

desire

from

authors,

facilities

they

The

is

before

in

book

practically

a

the

marked

other

and

lays

no

degree

public

the

to

claim

to

but

in

a

has

popular

wearing

being

a

been

Kensington,

R.

I

Messrs.

Jay,

who

have

reproduce,

the

following

also

Mr.

this

Messrs.

E.

R,

special

me

the

E.

take

possession,

by

J.

from

Davey,

offered

their

in

iS^y.

treatise

with

circumstances

manner

apparel

technical

written

of

FLORENCE

West

Mr.

A.

received

to

Planchd.

Co.,

"c.,

have

Mr.

of

many

aid

of

Miss

artists.

inexhaustible,

general

R.

J.

others,

me

Beck,

Mr.
"

engravings,

allowed

I

appeared

of

editorship

indebtedness

my

and

and

Box,

drawings,

courteously

have

Hensman,

Mr.

:

Mr.

Liberty

originally

assistance

also

quoted
late

Messrs,

Walery,

valuable

;

which

the

under

public

have

the

and

consulting

for

the

I

thanking

Messrs.

Garrould,

the

to

works

Knight,

of

opportunity

Juh'et

available

of

(portions

Magazine,

acknowledge

whose

Mr.

Rimmel,

Costume

on

Ilhistrated

to

usually

not

sources

volume

Lndgate

I

Bowden),

which

this

compiling

the

British

MARY

on

the

subject

a

intention

which

of

have

Nation.

GARDINER.

which

bringing
influenced

CONTENTS.

PAGE.
CHAPTER.

I.

II.

III.

IV.

V.

VI.

Dress,

The

b.c.

IX.

X.

^5

25

Gloves

31

Footgear

Curious

Costume

Bridal

39

5i

Mourning

A

VIII.

3

1897

Headgear

Curious

Eccentricities

VII.

a.d.

594"

Fancy

Stage

Chat

Children

about

Costume

and

of

Floral

and

Various

Costume

61

Costume

Masculine

of

their

Periods

Clothing

71

79

89

Chapter
I.

DRESS,
189;.

b.c.

594

a.d.

"

THE

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

I.

Chapter

DRESS,

THE

Fashions

"

that

Have

been

Elder

times

these

Though

by

have
new

has

fate

HARD

this

to

without

any

natural

possessed by

the

lower

the

from

them

to

of heat

protect
cold.

and

otherwise, countless

myriads,
escaped the

have
ages, would
of the goddess Fashion, and

untold

for

human

mortal

animals

tyrannical
sway

proveib,il faut souffrir
pour

the French

belle,need
The

far

haps
Per-

specimen of a modiste's bill
in existence
has recently been
found
a
on
chalk
tablet at Nippur, in Chaldea.
The
hieroglyphicsrecord ninety-two robes and
tunics : fourteen
of these
were
perfumed
with myrrh, aloes and
cassia.
The
date of
this curious antique cannot
be less than two
thousand

Christian
remembered

these

ctre

written.

been

essential

latitudes.

eight hundred
In

era.

years
times

ancient

before

the

it must

be

sation
principalseats of civiliwere
Assyria and Egypt, and upon
countries
Western
nations depended

for many
derived

that the

of the
their

luxuries
fine

of

fabrics

life.

The

Jews

from

the

latter

progenitorswas chiefly
simplicity;and,
gather, no difference in

of

costume

our

for its extreme

remarkable
as

have

never

are

table

sphere
covering,like that

extremes

this been

Had

enter

skins

the earliest

condemned

beings

xx

1897.

a.d.

fibres,while furs and

of Quinborough."

Mayor

594"

articles of dress in Northern

;

you

the same,
get the name."

ones

'^

b.c.

new

than

more

used

Aliddleton's

\

called

now

are

worn

FASHION

we

as

can

between

made

design was

leaves entwined

birds, the

by

few

A

sexes.

of trees,

of

roughly dressed
skins of animals
were
probably regarded by
belles of the Adamite
beaux
and
period as
beautiful and appropriateadornments
for the
and
followed
made
were
by
body,
garments
from
doubtless
was
plaited grass, which
which
is
the origin of weaving, a process
than the mechanical
plaiting
nothing more
of

bark

the

the stalks,the feathers
or

hair, wool, flax, "c.

districts these
as,

for

annual

example,

in

Madras,

remote

many

still prevail,

where,

at

low

caste

period their

leaves.

In the

usual

attire for

Brazilian

an

apron

forests the

shirt tree," is to be found, from
the people roll off the bark in short
after

making

a

of

lecythis,

"

which

or

and,

an

it is customary
natives to exchange for

religious
ceremony,

for the
short

In

primitivefashions

lengths,

it pliable
in water, cut two
and
for the neck,
one

slits for the arm-holes
when

their

use.

The

dress
North

is

complete

American

and

Indian

ready for
employs

feathers for purposes
of the toilet,
and
many
African tribes are noted for their deftly-woven
fabrics

composed

of

grass

and

other

vege-

EARLY

KGVrriAN.
1:

2

THE

p"lace,which

in

or

brought

was

that it was

which

only

was

devised

between

of

Owing

forbade

Romans
used

with

complete robes of
being reserved for women.

silk

It is numbered

the

men,

Heliogabalus that
the

who

first man

silken

wool

of

ground

the

refused,on

show

that

Egyptians, owing
warmth
were
a

their

of

to

those

of

shades

climate,

In

this feature of

dye

obtained

murex,

the

under

of

name

livingon

which

general
be

purple,could

of both

in the costume

seen
sexes.

When

temperature,

trimming.

of the
the

passed

was

clothing of similar
design, but of wool, with
of the same
heavy fringes
a

later

a

from

395)

wore

cases

the

Republic,though

the

istence
ex-

of the Tigris,
who
subjected to greater

extremes

were

to

the

the banks
were

up

been

to garments of
partial
character,
semi-transparent

while

chiton.

employed

linen

or

respects

ready
date, as has alstated,silk was
imported. Colour, under
the Emperors, was
largely
used, and at least thirteen

at

to possess.

still in

Monuments

and

end of the

its extravagant cost, a silk
his
which
dress
consort
desired
earnestly

robe

the Greek

fabrics

The

teenth
nine-

the

for

in many

and

resembled

of

Aurelian,who

the Emperor

the Roman

was

century
gown,

spun,
home-

of course,

of leather.

stola

The

a

is well known

anecdote

chiton was,

equivalent

the

and

garment,

GREEK,

was

wore

thin metal

Among
plateswere applied.
the
working classes the

of

he

glass

cases,

and

ornaments

horses ;

and

some

or

among
luxuries

extravagant

chariots

and, in

by

for the entire dress

mings
trim-

embroidery,
diapers,
figurebands

woven

the
price,
its being

itshigh

to

length

The

of

were

silk.

entire

of

female

and

skirt.

the

of

rewoven

was

cloth

into

as

male

dress consisted in the

plan was
unravellingthe

stuff,which

tent
ex-

thirtyinches

body.

it is said the

and

the

to

the vital organs of the
The great distinction

over

in cloth,
half silk ;

manufactured

West

un-

manner

a

double

of about

product
the

to

If

feet.

waistbelt in such

in the dress of the Persians.
stance
circumIt is a remarkable
that this animal

the

to

itwould trailon the
girdled,
itwas
ground; but generally
drawn
or
through the zone

used

been

have

to

out

early Greek dress,
a
chiton, was
very
ing
simple contrivance, reach-

the

illustration will

known

stands

other

horizontal direction.

a

The

accompanying
give some
and
idea.
Medes
lonians,
Baby?V-of the highestclass,
partially
arrayedthemselves
which cost itsweight
in silk,
in gold,and about the time
of Ezekiel (b.c,594) it is

which

pendent,

one

rows,

while the

for nificent
magembroideries, of

in

is shown

costume

double

its linen

and

manufactures

FASHION.
rian

larly
particu-

was

for

noted

OF

EVOLUTION

a

to have

the

Roman

dismembered
dress

styleof

to
ROMAN.

that

(a.d.
seems

portant
flourished in the imterranean,
of the Meditowns
which

some

Assy-

pire
Em-

worn

was

similar

in mediaeval

THE

and which
times in Britain,

EVOLUTION

broidered

specimens
statuary adorning tombs of

of

thirteenth

the twelfth and
dress

and

have

been

sleeves

edged

with

the

the

of

loose

told

are

in

chequerwise
blue.

and

a

tions
descrip-

tunic

in

bare.

this

Over

was

yellowhair

Her
her

which

rested

secured
A

by

torque,

breastplatesas
the

from

her

with

covered
The

arms

of the

ladies

consisted

the

and

a

modern

and

linen

the

Anglo-

little black
used
women

at

this
were

colours.

and

white

period.
renowned

and

jewels

in

other

dress

and

the

to appear

ancient

sources,

MSS,
have

we

proofof this. St. Jerome
"

women

the

of

One

is to

philoscomon"

the

with

manage

root

their

out

St,
his

on

with

of the

stones

for

Bernard

sister

greater candour
arraied

women

curiosity

ornaments

body."

admonished

difificult

most

for clothes and

coat,
petti-

than

with

ness
polite-

him, well
visiting
riche clothinge,
and
precious
pedes
her

with
"

:

Such

pride to adorne

a

pompe
carion

Thinke

body.

and
as

is

not

ye
pore people, that be
deyen for hunger and colde;
and that for the sixth parte of
youre
of the

green

Very
were

persons
gay arraye, forty
might be clothed, refreshed,
and kepte from the colde?"

Saxon

youre

for

their skill with the needle,and
used largequantities
of gold
thread

of

in the eyes of all
increased in like proportion.

pointsto

favourite

red, blue, yellow,and
the fashionable

love

"

a

clothing, and

for

materials

traces

that is to say, lovers of finery,
writer states:
another
and

day. Cloth, silk,

were

the

calls

gunna,
gown,
Out of doors a

characteristic feature

evident

are

as

ample

lets.
brace-

in

figure.

civilisation advanced

that

BYZANTINE.

covered

dress of the

fastened

was

From

head rail,
formed
or
coverchief,
a

the

and

and

the upper portion
of the body, and with the

mantle

ground.
importantchange
and
surcoat
tight

beholders

or

with sleeves.

the

next

beautiful

was

bronze

of

lengththat

a

desire of the fair sex

sherie,or camise,of linen next
the
kirtle, which
skin, a
resembled

so

by
and

necessary to knot
that they should
not

There

were

ringsand

costume

Saxon

them,

cloths

sleeves

such

front to fitthe

upon

arrows,

fingersand

found

protection

a

Roman

the
tain
cer-

used

were

and

bodice,which

arms

necklet,

pair of

a

were

it was

was

a

the

ample cloak,
fibula (brooch).

or

also worn;

trains

The

an

a

sexes,

flowed

shoulders,

over

both

purple,red,

coloured

richest furs

trail upon

woven

shorter garment open
on
bosom, and leaving the

of

tions.
modifica-

and

Fine

of

wore

women

costume

additions

Boadicea,
the Queen of the Iceni,whom
we

the

was

dress

after the

years

Conquest,

Anglo-Saxon period,with

and

female

is that

Britain

some

retained

border.

a

of the earliest

One

For

broidered,
elaborately em-

and
of

coronation

herhusband, Edward

Norman

to

appear

the

of

the Confessor.

turies.
cen-

plain material

mantle

mantle

undersemi-tight

The

FASHION.

may

in the

be examined

OF

The

increased

facilities for

travellingoffered

their

work.

Among other instances
Editha
emquoted, Queen

engaged

the necessary
.\NGLO-SAXON.

to

those

Crusades, and
intercourse with

in the

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

quantities 200 marks were permittedto wear silver cloth,
other nations,caused considerable
lished;
"c., reasonably embelwith ribands, girdles,
land
of foreignmaterials to be imported to Engcloth
more
not
also
woollen
costing
had
during the Middle Ages: and this
the piece.
marks
six
than
of
the
costume
e
ffect
a corresponding
upon
in common
The tightforms of dress now
incentive
to tight
an
were
women
use
among
lacing,an
descendants
"

Clad

in

With

another

and

beaten

gold

purplepall,
gentyllbody and

middle

had

a

waist which

not

was

emeralds

with

embellished

was

small,"

splendidgirdleof

damsel, whose

the

from
rubies,evidently,

and

their

from which
injuriouspractice,
suffer. A lady is described

the

description,

size intended

Nature.

by

During
and

the union

by

Wars

the

made

costume

of the
the

of the

Roses

both

little progress, and
Houses
and
of York

marriage

of

Henry

VII.

trade
after
caster
Lanwith

Queen, Elizabeth, their attention was
in filling
their impoverished
chieflyconcerned
his

CENTURY.

I2TH

period,which

the

its richness

materials

the

for
was
chieflyremarkable
of form.
eccentricity
Among

and

in

use

be

may

mentioned

in Flanders,
for its rich dress stuffs;tartan, called

diaper cloth
famous

from

Ypres, a

town

tyretaine,"
meaning teint,or
Tyre (scarletbeing indifferently
used
for purple by ancient
writers, and
includingall the gradationsof colour formed
by a mixture of blue and red, from indigo
woollen
was
a fine white
to crimson). There

by

"

the French

colour

of

cloth called Blanket, named
after its inventor.
Sarcenet, also from its Saracenic
origin,and
which

gauze

Ermine

was

made

at

Gaza

in

Palestine.

the
to
use
strictlyconfined
the
of
nobles, and
Royal Family and
cloth of gold,and habits embroidered
with
lined
with
minever
other
or
or
jewellery,
expensivefur,could only be worn
by knights
and

per

was

ladies with incomes
annum.

Those

who

exceeding400
had not

more

marks

than

14TH

coffers,which

promoting new
VIII.

afforded

CENTURY.

little opportunityfor

left them
fashions

ample

of the trade in dress

in

dress.

Henry

facilitiesfor the revival

goods,and there

is little

THE

in tracing female
difficulty
sixteenth
the
six

century when

of

costume

remember

we

thirty-eight
years

of

course

EVOLUTION

the

that in
married

he

painted times

wives, besides having them

FASHIOA.

OF

"She

robed

was
'

'

with

lined

in

cloth

(petticoat)of

saya

crimson

of

gold, with

brocade, the

satin and

a

sleeves

trimmed

with

Her
train was
piled crimson velvet.
Articles of
than
two
yards long"
often bequeathed by will.
In
were

three
more

dress

the

[4th of August, 1540,
of Waterbeche,
To
mother
leaves
my
7ny holyday gowne.'"
Nicholas, Dyer of Feversham, 29th October,
made

one

William

on

Cherington,yeoman,

"

"To
sister,Alice Bichendyke,
1540,
my
thirteen shillingsand
ninepence 7vhkh she
owed

and

me,

John Holder,
leaves

with

lined

A

I

without

6th

Portrait

number

holland."

"

my

in

clothe

cypress." These
Ely Registry.

1544
frock

entries

attached

(so

the

as

of both

in the costume

distinct

sleeves

was

to

Fro7n

satin

of

Gamlingay,

Greene

peculiarfeature

sexes

but

of

wills in the

from

are

Jane

to

kerchiefs

two
rector

to

waistcoat.

be

from

the

changed
Among the

gown,
at

sure)
pleainven-

century.

of Mary

by

Queen of Scots,

all the

artists of

popular

the

day.
J. R. Planch^

in his

Costume," says: "The
and
magnificent,

were

"

of

History

British

of the nobility
gowns
at this period were

in front to the waist,showing the kirtle,

open
inner garment, as Avhat
or
then termed."
was
petticoat
who

found

so

worn

rich

of cloth

and

in

item:
damask
rme

Parr

of

gold

reign appears

yards

gold for a
Arragon."

of

"

a

round,

made

of the

account

"Seven

is thus

of

train, after the Dutch

of this Bluebeard's

call the

of Cleves,
in Henry's eyes, is

their first interview

at

wardrobe

a

should
Anne

littlefavour

said to have
gowne
without any

we

fashion;"

eighthyear
the

purple

ing
followcloth

of

kirtle for Queen
CatheThe
dress of Catherine

described

by Pedro
Spanish Duke

secretary to the
visited Henry
who

VHI.

in

de
de

Gante,

Najera,

1543-1544:

17TH

CENTURY.

pairs of purple satin
pairof linen sleeves
the arm,
quiltedwith
paned with gold over
with
one
black silk and
flowers;
wrought
tories

sleeves

find three

we

for

women,

one

EVOLUTION

THE

8

pair of

purple gold tissue damask
agletsof gold ; one

of

sleeves

wire, each

tied with

one

pair of crimson satin sleeves, four
of gold being set
on
each, and
button nine pearls.
We

with

familiar

all

are

adorned

middle

every

enormous

virginform

the

buttons
in

distended

the
and

skirts,jewelled stomachers
ruffs which

OF

of

Good

her

reign
body was imprisoned in whalebone, and
the fardingale,
the prototype of the modern
be
not
to
introduced, as it was
hoop, was
supposed
that a lady
Queen

the

In

Bess.

of

the

of Britain

costume

the middle

picturesquethan

more

of the

have

century, and
its great delineators

to
naturallyturn
and
Dyck, Rembrandt,
Velasquez, Van
Rubens, who delightedin givingus such fine
Women
had grown
examples of their work
tired of the unwieldy fardingale,
and changed
it for gracefulgowns
with flowing skirts and
low
bodices, finished with deep vandyked
we

or
embroidery.
an
elegantdeshabille
negligence,

collars of lace
studied

A

prevailed in

the

Court, particularly

Stuart

after the

three

and
Court

would
remain

dress
The

society.

portrait
of

Mary Queen

matters

been

had
to

it

which

in

the

s-

this

of

period

sary.
unneces-

is

wake
I9TH
BALL

fair type

gentlewoman of

skirt appears

of

that

fall in

CENTURY,

DRESS,

what

period.

was

The

I

1809,
worn

full

8th

COSTUME.

substantial character

machers
Sto-

Mary,

sleeves
fabrics

of

tight

were
a

once

rich

employed

were

the

William
and

favour, and

in

more

in

century.

WALKING

have

to

of

and

tume
cos-

it may
a

fashions

Dutch
appear
followed

cousin

her

he considered
a

i1 1 u

special

Court

Elizabeth,and

by

make

residence

the PYench

of

in

seen

trations

given. There is a
subtlety and charm
wanting

satin,

printseller's

window

apparel

is

about

be

every

cultivated

during her
at

voluminous

may

high degree

a

with

background.
and
Engravings
which
drawings

for

taste

of

elegance

of rich

in the

Scots,

authority on
of the toilet,

whose

and

whose

gowns

trains,are piledup

of

considered

was

an

and

longer

no

veiled,and

love

permeated

all classes of

who

necks
are

arms

grandmother;

Elizabeth's

us

whose

snowy

her

of

show

women

faithful to the fashions
and

the pictures
Hampton

in

in her wardrobe

of

beauties

of

tired,
similarlyat-

are

""%

sand
thoudresses

tion.
Restora-

Charles II. "s

bevy

left

in

seventeenth

is said

who
to

FASHION.

in

and
ference
pre-

of silk, which
to the softer makes
folds, and the
basqued bodice, with tightsleeves,is closely lent itself so well to the soft flowing hnes of
to

easy

moulded

to the figureand
surmounted
by an
ruff of muslin
elaborately-constructed
and

the

lace.

Fashion

To

the

great regret of

wardrobes

kept

at

James

of

the

our

ancient

Tower,

I. distributed.

were

At

previousera.
writer
intelligent

An

from

such

kings, formerly
by the order of

tradition,nor

no

periodwas

the

of

"

remarked

George

I. has

that
been

varyinggoddess that neither history,
paintinghas been able to preserve

the
antiquarians,

a

the time

has

all

her

in the
struggling

mimic
arms

forms;

like

of Telemachus,

Proteus
on

th^

EVOLUTION

THE

coast, she passed from
shape to
the rapidity of thought." In

Phanaic

shape with
the

1745

diminished

and

increased

had

hoop

at

in front, and

sides

the

pamphlet

a

FASHION.

OF

again
wide

to

and

bodice
but in

terminated
some

cases

different

of
next

super

"

the

of, and

at
a

"

the top.
with a

The

belt;

Garibaldi,or loose bodice
substituted.
was

which
polonaise,"

constructed
froc

proportionately
to

waist

the

texture, was
be noted
to

change

garment
"

the fore, skirts were
generallyflounced

on

similar

of the Middle

with
years Englishladies,
for the appropriate,wore

a

The

hideous

that
was

a

revival

lines to, the

Ages.
supreme

For

many

disregard

this with

a

skirt

entirelydifferent costume.
with these
But at last people got nauseated
abominations, and under the gentlesway and
influence of
Our Princess
a prettier,
more
rational costume
useful
and
appeared. In
dress, which
1876 the graceful Princess
accentuated
good point in the figure,
every
was
generallyworn ; and though this costume
in the latter part of its career
was
fiercely
Mrs.
abused
and
matron
by the rotund
belonging

to

an

"

"

CENTURY.

I9TH

publishedin

was

is." Ten

now

discernible

in

1830.

DRESS,

that year entitled "The
enorof the hoop petticoat,
as the

mousabomination
fashion

TEA

"

years later it is

and in
figures,
extending right and left
the

of

manner

George

are

ladies' dresses

dress

court

For

III.
we

some

indebted

strosity
mon-

George IV., and

to

rushed

then

reign of

abolition of this

the

Steel and

the

of

scarcely

1757 reappears,
after the

to

whalebone

the

other

dispensed
with, and narrow
draperiesdisplayedthe form
they were
supposed to conceal, and were
girdledjustbelow the shoulders.
extreme.

These

were

in time

was

followed

by

the

bell-

accession of Her
at the
shaped skirts worn
during whose reign
Majesty Queen Victoria,
fashion

has indeed

of the

sewing machine

appearance

run

of frillsand

riot.
was

the

The

19TH

CENTURY.

"

THE

POLONAISE,

1872.

invention

signalfor

furbelows, and

the

tricious
mere-

of every kind.
In
ornament
iTiiddle of the present century crinolines

the
were

clingingtoo closelyto the lines
distinctlyan
form, it was
advance
as
regardshealth and beauty on the
styleswhich precededit,
varying
Grundy,
of

the

for

human

The

cesthetic movement
influence

marked
but

more

last few

on

has

had

also

a

especiallyin the
though
years; and

the

the

of

costume

picturesque

twenty-fiveyears

which

may

almost

livery;and
to

hours

of

the

the

lilymay

the tailor-made

"

regarded as

we

good

to

seive

costume

moulded

adapted

to

our

cachet to the

dress,

national

that reposeful garment
in our

turn
affectionately

How

ease.

a

well each
the purpose

in its way
for which

designed,the simple cloth, tweed,

is

a

be

the tea gown,

which

calculated

garb of

of

canons

dominant
Two
notes, however, have been
struck in the harmonies
of costume
during the
last

TAILOR-MADE

the

fitness, beauty, and

in all directions, taste.

taste

our

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

lO

to

the

lines of

or

the

is
it

serge

figure,

changeful climate, and giving
not
always found in

wearer,

DRESS,

worshippersof

the

sunflower

and

be

and
adapted to the wear
tear of this workaday world, it is beautiful in
form
and
design, incapable of undue
sure;
presfor children
and
and
girlsit
young
be difficult to imagine a more
would
ing,
charmnot

and
artistic,
Once

more

becoming costume.
we

of

lovely women,
despair. The
which

a

few

with favour

which

plain ones

and

delicate

to

tints

since

been

were
regarded
superseded by garish

shades
and
bright colours, which
quarrel with everything in Nature

Unfortunately, we

classical

caricatures

makes

drives

and
subdued

seasons

have

eschewing

are

lines for grotesque

English

are

to

seem

and

Art.
to

prone

and
extremes,
possess the imitative rather
than the creative faculty. Consequently,our
national

costume

combination
our

to

of

Continental

is seldom
some

of

but
distinctive,
the

worst

neighbours,who

garb themselves

with

so

a

styles of

would

scorn

little regardfor

TEA

much

more

in the best

costlyapparel,a
sense

of all ages

women

to

1897.

GOWN,

themselves

of the

rational costume

word, and

may

assume

and

to

those

one

with
with

which
tion
satisfacwhom

EVOLUTION

THE

in contact.

they come

The

tea

gown,

the

on

other

hand, drapes the figurelooselyso as to
fallin graceful
folds,and may be regarded as a
distinct economy,

as it so often takes the place
expensive dress. Beauty, which is
of Heaven's
is usebest gifts
one
to women,
less
unless appropriately
framed, and a wellknown
cally,
exponent on the art of d ressingartisti-

of

a

has laid down
are

we

turn

source

of

Nature

to

we

inspiration.The

than

shelf

calmly allow
some

those
their

cases

without

be

to
a

placed on

murmur,

and

their junior,and in
slightly
senior, to appropriate the

adapted
to

to

our

look

our

contrasts.

unfailing
set
foliagetints,sun-

have

an

the animal and mineral
effects,
of colour, which can

old

decrepitude,submit

social

the

that harmonies

the axiom
successful

more

offer schemes
And

dress of

more

of colour
If

FASHION.

OF

and
persons
best and, above

is a duty which
gracefully,

worlds

all

be

readily
surroundings.
all,to

every

grow

daughter

MODERN

DRESS.

EVENING

good thingsof life,and to monopolise the
in their
attention of all and sundry. Mothers
be perallow anyone
who can
prime willingly
suaded
do
to
to
chaperone their
so,
daughters,and to pilotthem through the
social eddies and
quicksands of their first
fail to
and through sheer indolence
season,
AN

After
of Eve

ARTISTIC
a

painting by

DRESS,
Sir Jos him

1

897.

exercise the lawful

and responsibility
authority

/Reynolds.

which

maternity

entails.

woman,

conscious

The
in
humanity.
manner
which so many
women
give way early in life
is simplyappalling. While
stillin the bloom
of womanhood
the habits and
they assume
owes

to

that

maturity,takes

corners,

and

and

middle-

assumes

unmarried

The
is

no

longer

indifferent to the

her firstyouth, and
of

she

to

in

charms

socks in obscure
knitting
air of self-repression
an

agednesswhich

takes
apparently

EVOLUTION

THE

ten

conveys

old

the

to

the

passed

time

civilisation

the

later

display

coiffure

comfort

that

in

pearl
the

bloom

of

the

strictly

nevertheless

aged

could
will

woman

claim

velvet,

by

others

brocade,

she

drapes
other

A

her
rich

a

the

education

and

within

the

of

there

prevailing

requirements;
teach

which

who

to

middlemore

person

fabrics

and
if

is

one

to

women

other.

each
out

for

form,

rich

in

daily

needs

large

number

which

ofifend

exact

and

life,

the

eye

adapted

startling
in

would

various

only

beautiful

should

we

the

be

cannot

opposites

person
raiment

to

ment
senti-

reasoning

who

texture,

of

guide
style

each

own

ought

particular
are

our

our

other

every
to

at

the

of

prevent
to

sense

herself

of

classes
to

ignore

If

think

a

training

art

all

common

supposed

that

leaves,

green

fashions

we

jewels,

ornament

no

nothing

is

(even

us

appropriate

are

grasp

modifying

columns

than

beauty.

and

community

like

its

in

youth

of

arms,

need

to

shoulders

brighter

locks

suited

belong

necks

are

eyes

nestling

rose

emblem

present

and

luxuriant

who

which

be

and

their

creatures)

that

those

herself

and

but

Their

they

past

dimpled

whiteness,

ivory.

plexion.
com-

points

concealed.

respect

from

people

beauty,

good
while

if

and

rouge

combine
of

race

to

many

be

and

healthy

and

a

accentuated,

pleasing

respected
in

world

have
be

might

lay

light

young,
snowy

in

materials,

Gossamers

their

dignity,

herself

similar

since

long
style.

with

With

conviction

circumstances

of

fit

whose

distinguishable

youthful

variety

into

cannot

less

a

save

rooms
ball-

the

her

decking

and

net,

particular

and

pensations.
com-

nature,
the

shaded

of

attenuated

than

art

hardly

are

their
crowded
or

with

carefully

a

powder

bring

to

more

entirely

beholders,

all

themselves

A
to

gaze

owes

who

of

in

of

they

redundant

their

the

to

because

benefit?

in

persists

give

and

folds,

stately

she
crepon,

the

who

in

fall
if

muslin,

enjoyments

have
in

who

which

her

those

that

life

of

stages

sink

FASHION.

than

dowdyism

are

youth

to

Women

forms

their

deprecated

desperately

so

forget

be

to

the

for

provided

and

women

of

from

off

has

youth

slough

a

and

she

between
these

into

has

Equally
cling

line

themselves

cut

that

onlooker,

should

Why
their

existence,

of

span

casual

boundary

age.

before
and

her

from

years

OF

be

in
to

the

spared

incongruities
directions.

a

II.
Chapter

HEADGEAR.
CURIOUS

HEADGEAR.

CURIOUS

painterplaysthe spider,and hath
golden mesh to entrap the hearts of

The
A

Merchant

The

Writ

HOLY

the

to

that

that

at

allusions

of

there

early period

an

head

was

is

in the

the

to
a

fair

the

East, and

awakened

well-tired

a

console

Venice.

of

tresses

the

of

historywomen

world's

not

clever husband,

a

men

with

simply teems
luxurious

daughters
little doubt

herself for the loss of such

woven

gnats in cobwebs."

than

Faster

could

that Artemisia
surprising

in her hair

Here

IS

II.

Chapter

"

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

fact

potent

very

recognised market
were
particularly
in this respect, and
famed
employed female
barbers,who, with the aid of crispingpins,
horns, and towers, prepared their clients for
These
jewelled horns were
rally
geneconquest.
made
of the precious metals, and the
had

attraction, and

the condition

denoted
position
married

A

side

a

Jewish women

value.

of the

she who

head,

the

was

thrown

Over

crown.

on

the

on

wearer.

the

right

left,and

unappropriated blessing

stillan

was

on

widow

a

of the

it fixed

had

woman

the

horn

the

as in the illustration.
coquettishly,
delighted in long ringlets,
of
by a band

Assyrianwomen
confined

the

metal, and
not

above

the weakness

plaiting
gold wire

in

anecdote

solus. King
turned

his

of

in

stored

wigs
in

made

the

agents

cover

their denuded

delighted to buy

at

wore

of

preserved

British

the

Museum.

multitude

a

of

dark

with

tresses
or

The
HEAD-DRESS

was

and

went

the

perukes destined to
polls,which they were
It is not
price
any
"

vegetable,and
which
and

it

was

elsewhere

adorned.
have

brilliant

fillet

a

with

JEWISH

with their

contrasted

efiect \

ANCIENT

animals,

other

and
which

the

monarch's

still

plaitsand jewelled
resemblingpeahead-pieces
cocks

he

them
round, offering

also

some

small

and

houses,
royal warepublished an
edict compelling all his
subjectsto have their heads
A few days after,
shaved.

wigs,

are

Ladies

requiredreplenishing.
Having first had a quantity
of

of

one

of the world.

Egyptianswere

which

to

his memory

to

counted

partialto

quer
exche-

his

ill-gotten
building such a

the wonders
The

ashes

of her

some

lord's
in

monument

of Caria, who
ness
people's fond-

when

account

spent

that it was

of Mau-

flowinglocks

for

wine, she
lamented

"

curious

drinkinghis

satisfied with

revenue

Rimmel, in The
of Perfumes," relates

Book

"

that,not

dissolved

with their

beards.

a

and

were

men

HEAD-DRESS.

EGYPTIAN

veil

a

coiffure of

a

remarkable

princess

for its size

the abundance
mineral
In
been

mented
orna-

lotus bud.

treasures

Egyptian
discovered

mal,
of aniwith
tombs
small

resembling the

combs

wooden

comb,

shape

same

mirrors

metal

and

in

those

as

preciselythe
the present

at

use

Berenice, the wife

getes.

It is related

his

expedition

well

toilet

ances.
appli-

his
hair

Grecian
of
in

sculpture affords
studyingthe different

that

the nity
opportuin favour

and
When

to

vow

a

her husband

if he

in

ancient

spread

their charms.
the form
was

of

a

favourite

a

Cauls
mitres

of different

simple

and

sometimes

flowers, all
different

designs,
of

confined,

at

periods,the

locks of the
of ancient

the

and

was

heathen

among

riant
luxu-

Helens,

to

consecrate
as
was

in

well

as

either

consumed

temples,

or

HEAD-DRESS

OF

hung

on

THE

Coma

Berenices

of

instance

is that

set

with

hair when

cut

the head, and
the

trees.

it

jewels,and
to
Jupiter

hair of the head

and

CENTURY.

beard

off,
it

the altar,deposited
upon

hair

stellation,
con-

Capitolinus.
The

13TH

gods the
growing on

which

old writer tells

consecrated

to

their

that

constellation

a

Berenice) to
Another
day.
present

gold

custom

nations

into

was

been

Nero, who, according to
Suetonius, cut off his first
beard, put it in a casket of

Xantippes

common

ing,
miss-

of

times.
a

Cyprus.

had

heavens,

remarkable

ENGLISH

It

hair

report

it

that

is called

us,

her

her

afterwards
a

her.

to

kept

of

temple

an

(the

chaplets,

Penelopes, and

in the

metal

bands,

offered

was

turned

fashion.

network,

of

she

when

loose

A

the

This

by a clasp in
grasshopper,

knot, fastened

returned

back

came

her

its fineness

for

word, and

for enhancing

king went

solicitous for

consecrate

remarkable

astonishingto find what a
were
variety of methods
adopted by the belles of
Greece

the

is

Ever-

ROMAN.

beauty)to Venus,

it is

and

country,

us

modes

safety,made
(which was

of hair

Ptolemy

Syria,she,

ANCIENT

other

numerous

as

of

that when

to

GRECIAN.

ANCIENT

of the consecration

that of

on

day, as

instance

famous

tooth-

modern

of

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

\6

A

appears

to

have

been

in great respect by most
nations, and
hair
perhaps we may trace the use of human
in spells and
incantations
this fact.
to
Orientals especially
falls
the hair which
treat

held

THE

EVOLUTION

EASHIOK.

OE

had

17
them

unkindly. Ovid
acquaintance in the
havingdestroyedher hair.

treated

dered,
rebukes

lady

a

plainestterms
"

I not
tell you
to leave off dyeing
hair?
hair left to
Now
have
no
you
and

:

locks

:

and

were

so

comb

them.
the

of

cause

handsomer

yet nothing was

your

the

for

his

Did

yoar

dye

of

down

they came

to

fine that

you

Your

hand

own

loss you

deplore:

HORNED

HEAD-DRESS

Effigy of

supply

your

many
Ger-

vanquished
How

ornament.

CENTURY.

OF
15TH
of Arundel

Countess

will

Now
a

the

poured

you

poison

nation

been

has

"

troin

afraid to

were

head.
on
your own
will send you slaves' hair

than

knees,

your

in

Arundel

Church,

from

them

it,so that

with
no

Roman

wigs and

shall

ebon

own

dye

use

and

it to their

bury
prejudice.

preferredblonde
generally

matrons

hair to their
o

superstitious
care,

one

when

tresses, and

Nature,

as

resorted

they consi-

vor"

\

EARLY

TUDOR

HEAD-DRESS.

times, when
you hear people praising
beauty of your hair,you will blush and
It is bought ornament
:
to
say to yourself
which
I owe
beauty, and I know not
my
what Sicambrian
virginthey are admiring in
many
the

'

yet there

And

me.

deserved

It would
or

brother

was

a

time

when

I

"

compliments.'
puzzleany Jin de siecle husband
his displeasure
in more
to express

all these

words
appropriate

than

those chosen

by

the

poet.
STEEPLE

HEAD-DRESS

OF

15TH

CENTURY.

The Britons,before they mixed with other
fair-haired race, and early
a
nations, were
c

THE

the

reddish

with

with lime

boiled

in water

which

locks

the

after

shoulders;but

is described

Boadicea

colour.

flowing

a

varietyof shapes,of

increase

to

FASHION.

OF

washingtheir auburn

writers referred to their
tresses

EVOLUTION

written

her
fell upon
Invasion
Roman

During the
adopted either

the accompanying
better idea than any

which

givea
description.
will

sketches

sixteenth

matrons

century

pointed hood, composed of
velvet or other rich fabric,often edged with
coif,or the French cap to
fur,a close-fitting
of the unhappy Mary
in the portraits
be seen
a

Those

Stuart.
their

hair

with

knots

Nature's
maiden

of

most
"

had

unmarried

were

embellished

and

braided

of pearls,or
ribbon, strings
beautiful

sweet-scented
auburn

The

who

simply

tresses

for the

adornment
flowers.
of

Gracious

Her

bien
Majesty Queen
various
her
from
if
we
judge
coiffee,
may
portraits.She scorned the hoods, lace caps,
and
by her contempopointed coifs,worn
raries,
miniature
or
crown
and
a
adopted
of
hat
elaboratelyjewelled.
velvet,
jaunty
fair complexion and
Her
light hair were
into relief by rufiles of lace,and this
thrown

always

Elizabeth, were

HEAD-DRESS

HORNED

OF

EDWARD

's

IV.

REIGN.

the hair

both

of

the fashion

Planch^'s

From

Costume,"
a

the

have

been

"

all classes of

long piece

round

followed

women

"History

learn that

we

among
was

and

men

of the conquerors.

head

a

was

dispensed with

was

then

dress
head-

the

Anglo-Saxons
silk wrapped

or

neck."

It appears

to

or
head-rail,
wimple, but
in the house, as the hair

cherished

as

British

female

linen

of

and

called

of

the

an

ornament

as

at

the

by Adhelm,
present day. A wife described
in the
Bishop of Sherborne, who
wrote
twisted
eighthcentury, is said to have had
curled by the iron ;
and in
locks, delicately
of
the poem
Judith the heroine is called
"

"

"

"

"the

maid

Two

were
long plaits

and

were

of the

probably adopted by

countrywomen

During

the

after the
Middle

underwent

many

and

linen

bands

hair

and

chin,

shaped

Creator,with twisted locks."
worn
by Norman
ladies,

erections

changes.

Golden

closelypinned
were

and

our

Conquest.
Ages feminine

followed

horned

round

own

gear
headnets,
the

ELIZABETHAN

delicate

fabric

was

stretched

fine wire

over

frames, which met at the back, and remotely
suggested the fragile
wings of the butterfly,
the nimbus
of a saint,neither of which
or
ornaments

was

particularly
appropriateto

by steeple- lady in question.

head-dresses in

HEAD-DRESS.

over

a

cushion, or

The

front hair

dressed

was

the

turned

in stiff sausage-

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

19

left to the sterner sex for some
like curls,pinned close to the head, and was
years after the
of
the House
of Stuart, and
of flashing restoration
with stringsand
stars
satisfied with
well -brushed
were
women
the forehead.
on
gems and a pendant resting
That ^splendid
ringletsescaping from a bandeau of pearls,
historian,Stubbs, who has
adorned

left us

such

of
particulars

minute

the fashions

or
was

hair

beautified

by a singleflower. The
arranged in small, flat curls on

often

the

forehead, as in the sketch of a Beauty of the
Court of Charles H.; and this fashion had a
softeningeffect on the face,and was known
as

the

"

Dutch
Court
is

Sevigne style."
fashions naturally
prevailedin

of William

and

represented

with

Mary, and

the

this queen
muslin
cap,

high
upright frills,
edged
with lace, and
long lappetsfallingon the
Love
shoulders.
Farquhar, in his comedy
and
the Bottle," alludes to the
high topknots,"
and
Swift,to the
pinners edged
with

adorned

a

a

series of

"

"

"

with colberteen,"as
the lace streamers
this period the hair was
called.
About

againrolled
some

BEAUTY

of his
the

THE

OF

be

the

Court.

and

borders

it should

"

states

underpropped

with

with

ornamented

Such

wrought.

Then

tearms,

French

a

the

upon

stately
turrets, stand
:

or

gewgaws,

found

necessary

make

to

ear

It

:

in

out
to

the

be
down, must
and weirs, and

forkes

gold

in woman's
recount.

one

fall

it was

cases

the coiffure of

He

from

other, and lest

the face,and assumed
much
so, that in

II.

CHARLES

curled, frizzled,
crisped,laid

wreaths

and

OF

describes
time,quaintly

ladies of

must

COURT

from

dimensions, so

enormous

A

back

were
once

silver
which
I

curiously
skilful
being un-

easily

cannot

toppes

their other

of

their

ments
capitalorna-

hood, hatte,cappe, kircher
be of velvet,
some

suchlike,whereof

some

of

Cauls

made

this

silver,or
sometimes

fashion

and

some

of

that.

of

netwire,that the cloth of gold,
their hair was
tinsel,with which
covered, might be seen
through ;

lattice caps with three horns or corners,
like the forked caps of popish priests."The
Harleian
MSS., No. 1776, written in the
middle of Elizabeth's reign,refers to an ordinance

and

for the

reformation

of

gentlewomen's

and
head-dress,
ermine

or

"
None
shall wear
says :
lattice bonnet
unless
she
be

an

END

This
gentlewoman born, having Arms."
phrase, we
conclude, refers to
may
armorial
not
to
bearings,
physicaldevelopment.

latter

The

wearingof

false hair and

periwigswas

OF

17TH

CENTJRY.

a

doorways broader

and

higher than they had
fashionably-dressed
ladies to pass through without displacing
the
elaborate
erections
they carried. Stuffed
with horsehair, clotted with
pomade and

hitherto

been,

to

allow

c

2

decked

powder, and

with

every

from
miniature
a
ornament,
full sail,to a cooing

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

20

Varied, indeed, have

conceivable
in

man-of-war

FASHION.

the

19th century,

been

wings,

outspread
presumably
its nest,

sittingon
a

basket

of

wreathed

in,

called

form

hair

dressed

and

not

was

cleanliness

as

book

costume

on

hairdresser

a

coiffure

compensated
by the

her

COIFFURE

FASHIONABLE

LALY

ELDERLY

AN

"

THE

I

8th

century.

well

deliver

began

it now,
be a

to

hazarde."
make

nature

was

of
us

it

used

were

little

and

matter

on

British
informs

that

this
feel

wind.

it

bon
ribthe

this

In

witching
be-

costume

of

were

mothers
grand-

our

and

wooed

by suitors
evidently,from
impassioned love

his
tume,
Cos-

who
the
ters
let-

stillin existence,

us

believed
FASHIONABLE

HEAD-DRESSES

IN

THE

TIMES

OF

them

to

be

of loveliness.

perfecttypes

was

by Her
Majesty Queen Charlotte,Consort

III.,and

and

gauze
floated
in

tained
powder mainits ground till

when
^793)
discarded

sion,
profu-

won

Planch"^, in
work

in
bows

stringsof

ancestors.

our

of

feathers

and

secondaryimportance
to

Garlands

personalhygiene
a

or

bunches

flowers

Various

anecdotes
that

materials.
and

to

as

stretched

was

gathered silk, satin,
aerophane, or similar

in

proper

wide

had

curiously-shaped
which
brims, over

fore,
"and, thereit was

with

These

and

Nine

go

bonnets

generally worn
it.

he
mildly
suggested that that
was
as
long as a head

summer,

and

hats

weeks,"

could

size of the

enormous

IN

been

replying,

was

for
OF

opened
repaired. On

and

this

of

of his customers
how
since her
long it was
hair had

The

simplicity

asking one

as

was

a

scribed
de-

is

head,

front

shell side-combs.

manded,
dein

for

the

the

generallyin bands or
short
ringlets,held
in place by tortoise-

frequently

so

of

crown

of expense
for other reasons,

the

1830

distinguishedby
of
upstanding bows
plainor plaitedhair,
the
on
arranged

score

and

other.

of

was

imagine,on

may

greatest

to each

belle

The

incapable of
and
constructing
manipulating such a
of tangledlocks.
mass
the

the

contrast

was

were

We

Only
styles

the

will be selected which

bons.
rib-

ladies

as

of

be
can
adopted
touched
briefly
upon,
those
and, naturally,

or

the
Naturally,
aid of the barber

few

a

flowers

with

is fast

approaching.
"*

with

dove

of

the fashions

the close of which

the Princesses."

THE

GEORGES.

T

of

George

middle
was

of

dressed

Queen
in

a

Victoria's

o

war

d

s

reign,the

simple knot,

and

the
hair

the front

THE

arranged
the

married
and

in

chest

for

which
ringlets,

and

shoulders.

EVOLUTIOA

OF

fell gracefully
on
Even

youthful

ladies,in the privacyof their homes
morning dress, were
expected, by

FASHION

The
child's

21

labours

of

one

of those

fickle
caps,

chignon,

be

mere

to

i8S5i

1872.

potent but unwritten

PRESENT

laws of the

muslin
goddess Fashion, to wear
with
lace borders, embellished

ribbons.

would

giving a faithful
of the chameleon-like
record
changes which
have affected that kaleidoscope,
pubhc taste,

1830.

bird's-nest

Hercules

play compared

or

net

with

DAY,

1

894.

during the last fortyyears, and a very limited
subjectat once constudy of this fascinating
vinces
ajipcar,

us

that, whatever

they

are

certain

peculiarities
may
to

be

revivals

or

THE

23

modifications
less

or

of

the

8th

the

its

bonnets

hats
for

la

a

winter

wear,

firmly

on

with
the

nothing
with

warmer,

when

and

caught

attach

snug

a

and

string

immortalised
facsimiles

hats,

his

the

all

named

leghorn,

was

flapped

styles
and

the

those

of

them

well

adapted

and

hats

on

of

their

made

satin,

and

fully

that

has

the

forehead
hair

the
but

be

may

the

arranging

by
forehead,

and

by

which

adds

to

sides,
the

it

is

Pope

not

the

left

on

in
it

soft

its

of

And

tresses

beauty

man's

record

style

:

draws

imperial
us

by

race

a

single

ensnare,

hair."

at

width

admirers,

of
Fair

curls

slightly

apparent

have

to

sure

with

generally

whatever

But

countenance.

fashion,

hair

face

back
is

waving

safe

a

and

drawn
face

long

a

head,

as

low

a

is

panying
accom-

taken
is

us

which

the

by
be

may

Another

English

average

to

that

by

given

hair,

the

explained

It

the

advantage,

in

Langtry
by

worn

when

"

lace,

is
sketch.

the

indigestible
and

the

to

which

handle

has

dressing

of

varying

bun."

"

the

at

latterly

fashion

of

waist.

rolls

door

a

and

the

wheel

mode

simple

improved

has

of

monstrosity,
the

of

the

to

knots,

loaf,

cottage

a

down

reaching

gigantic

Grecian

skull,

dimensions

hideous

small,
to

Leech

but

Rousby,

from

rule,

most,
upper-

keep

to

of

curls

head

by

wedges

half-way
of

the

of

like

plaited

hump

followed
tbe

back

in

cascade

a

crown

were

and

necessary

as

the

These

in

of

could

dressed

was

pendant

a

or

these,

Turbans

delicious

crinoline,

their

which
it

sketches.

;

keep

keel

edge,

after

namesakes

foot-

mop

back,

beneath

heart

fashion

of

illustrated,

like

flowing
the

hair

The

the

or

woman

and

shape

every

devise,

could

exacting

frizzy

the

of

tissue,

gold
fancy

most

turn

fox

Besides

hats

Gainsborough,

respective
straw,

;

in

of

pork-pie,

the
such

fixed
bling
resem-

temperature

turned

till

to

taut

now

mushrooms,
wind

the

the

airing.

flexible

were

and

proper

canoes

while

head

as

a

an

pinched

were

or

ladies
at

enjoying

there

and

which

by
;

the

from

rounded
sur-

feathers

wearer,

much

extremities

pedal

the

of

so

plates

animal's

an

brow

that

replaced

fur

of

almost

were

shallow

others

tilted

were

hair

of
were

like

Chinois,

introduced,

they

These

the

edifice,

curl,

mountains

them.

and
that

desire.

blance
resem-

of

monstrous

that

the

faint

a

Alexandra
minute

so

in

ghastly

coiffures

this

Upon

seductive

invisible

bore

which

exaggerated

century.

with

silver

more

our

that

us

upon

chignon,

to

1

by

FASHION.

size

loomed

1872

horror

favoured

styles

OF

ancestors.

remote

In

EVOLUTION

is
for

III.

Chapter

GLOVES.

FASHION.

OE

EVOLUTION

THE

25

III.

Chapter

GLOVES.
"

Gloves

"

See

sweet

as

how

O, that I
That

I

as

damask

leans her

she
were

upon
that

glove upon

a

might

roses."

cheek

touch

an

as

which

have

been

and

Koineo

recently

Juliet.

in

discovered

is

Switzerland, there

its existence,

Probably

the

old

the

"

to

the

laws

OF

gloves
above

reach

formed

were

needles, and

instance

an

skins,

of

of

their

more

seventh

of Ethelred

the

we
an

century known

according

Unready,

five

remained

in force till 1826.

the

sewn

to

HAWKINS

Persians,gives
effeminacy "that

the

-(SLove

not

that the coldness

hands
not

the

of Beowulf," and

Poem

which

their
head
and
only covered
from
cold
feet, but guarded their hands
by thick gloves." Homer, describingLaertes
with
in his garden, represents him
at work
his
them
hands
to
from
on
gloves
protect
thorns.
Pliny the younger, in speaking of
his uncle's visit to Vesuvius, states that his
anything
secretary sat by ready to write down
his
that was
remarkable, and had gloves on

they

devour

pairs of gloves formed part of the duty paid
merchants.
to that Prince
by certain German
In Planchi's
"History of British Costume,"
an
Anglo-Saxon lady appears to be wearing
a
glove with a separate division for the
but
without
thumb
exactly
fingers,and
resembling an infant's glove of the present
In
IV.
forbade
the
1462 Edward
day.
of
to
importation
foreigngloves
England, a

the elbow.

Xenophon, speaking of
as

\\

long enough

were

hot and

Anglo-Saxons wore
gloves
their being mentioned
in
of

as

while

present.

earlyChristian Church glovesplayed
In
magne
Charlean
a.d.
important part.
790
unlimited
ing
huntof
an
right
granted
and monks
of Sithin,so
to the Abbot
that the skins of the deer they killed could
be
in the
used
of
manufacture
gloves,
and covers
of books.
In some
cases
girdles,
it was
commanded
that the
clergy should

(sLove

with bone

the

romance

In

H"NRY

meat

others

gather from

law

first

the
the

That

times,
pre-historic

of

France, Belgium, and

ample proof of

hand,

article of dress is of great
the fossils of the
among

cave-dwellers

handle
than

her hand.

that cheek."
"

glove
THE antiquity,
and

Shakespeare.

"

his

impede

work.

weather

Varro,

an

need
ancient

gathered with the
naked
hand are
preferableto those plucked
in gloves;"and Atheneus
speaks of a glutton
who
wore
gloves at table so that he might
writer

says:

"

"Olives

of the

H6NRY
Nil)
the Sacrament,
gloves in administering
writer in the "Antiquary" states:
It was
for
always looked upon as decorous
the laityto take off their gloves in church
ecclesiastics alone might wear
them.
where
It was
perhaps regarded as a proof of cleaq
wear

and
"

a

"

26

EVOLUTION

THE

hands, for
law

gloves."

this

to

courts

the

In

for the
was

Those

day persons
compelled to

are

of

the Church,

William

a

glove.

our

chivalry it

ing
bless-

usual

was

in

success

with

for

in

gloves

of

also meet

we

COARY

to

sum

those

QueeNofScoT^

the

servants

who

gloves as
Shakespeare often
assert

that

he

was

the

knights

their

In

term

for

old

turies
cen-

days
to

helmets,

of

wear
as

a

records

"

glove money,"
they were
their livery,
and

with which
of

the

attended

funerals with

some

in

arms.

paid
to provide this portion
till quite recentlyit was

Of

it has

d'amour

gage

esteemed, and

their ladies'
talisman

a

(SLOVe

un

vice
Ser-

gloves they wore.
preserved
Wykeham

of

As
been

the

on

FASHION.

their

Consecration

ancient

Bishops of

invoked

in

sworn

remove

OF

custom

to

weddings

present
and

souvenir.

a

mentions
the

gloves, and
a
glover.

of

son

belonged to the dramatist is
They are of brown leather,
with a stamped pattern, and are
ornamented
edged with gold fringe. They were
presented
poration
by the actor Garrick to the Mayor and CorA

pair which

stillpreserved.

of Stratford-on-Avon
commemoration

at

New

the

College, Oxford,

sacred

ecclesiastical
with

adorned

are

in

monogram

red

at

the Shakespearian

in 1789.

with

silk, and

often

gloveswere

rated
lavishlydecojewels,and were

embroidery and

bequeathed by will with other valuables.
forbidden
to wear
Formerly judges were
gloveswhen engaged in their official duties,
but are no longer bound
by this restriction,
and

receive

as

a

memorial

of

(thatis,when there are
tried)a pair of white

kid

duringthe

time

and
sheriff,
their

duration

glove outside

was

the

no

a

maiden

assize

prisonersto
gloves from
fairs

marked

were

be
the

held

by hanging

a

long as it
remained
in the place were
there all persons
from
arrest, but
directly it was
exempt
it was
removed
the signal for closingthe
end.
at an
was
fair,and the privilege
Throwing down a glove was
regarded as a
challenge to combat, and this curious old
in the
is still retained
custom
English
coronation
also
were
Kings
ceremony.
invested with authority
by the deliveryof a
town

hall.

As

OLOve

OF

QueeweuzABeTN.
Many royal gloveshave found a place in
privatecollections. Henry VI.'s glove has a
of tanned
and is
leather,
gauntlet,is made
the hawking glove
lined with deer-skin,and
of Henry VIII. is another interesting
relic pf

THE

bygone age. The
Charing Cross, and

in

after this monarch's

death

King kept

a

his hawks

the inventories
we

read

of

at

taken
"

three

gloves,with two lined with
payre of hawkes'
velvet ;" and again at Hampton
Court
there
"seven
hawkes'
gloves embroidered."
hawking glove,of which an illustration
is given, may
be seen
in the Ashmolean
Museum.
It is of a simple
tended
character, evidently inwere

The

for

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

27

is every
sometimes

there

romance,

that^they have
sinister motives,

not

were

worn

after the

during

the

but

sixteenth

and

centuries

their

gradually extended

the middle

classes.

Elizabeth's

may

Library, Oxford,
believed

have

to

and

been

white

leather

Anne,

worn

and

cuff is lined with drab

Mary
glove

of

Queen
the

in

Walden

silver wire

different
lined

and

colours.
crimson

with

lace enriched
is connected

with

Scots'

of
(""LOVG

silk of

jAroesi.

is

bands

of

Suede

-

satin

hand,

decorated

kid, with
on

the

three

loops
of rose-coloured
ribbon, to
be slipped
allow them
to
the hands.
over
They are
further enriched
with gold
lace and
embroidery, A
Court
yellow Suede
glove
of George IV. gives the
impression that the first
gentleman of Europe had

satin,edged with gold
sequins,and the opening

with

of

gauntlet,and

the

It

other

highly

gloves

lightbuff leather,wrought
with

scaffold

raised silken flowers

silk.

is

the

cream-coloured'

the

on

wore

Saffron

Museum

on

ered
gauntletembroidsilver and
edged
silver fringe. Queen

with
is

worked

gold thread,

I.
of

with

the visit of the Virgin
Queen to the Universityin
1566. It is fringed with
gold,and is nearly half a
yard in length; it is made
with

a

silk.

kid, the

at

of

Charles
is made

be

Bodleian

the

at

to

Queen

glove

satin, with
red

They
finished
with
are
gold
and have three loops
fringe,
A
the side.
at
glove of
chaste
worn
by
design,

generally
till

by women
Reformation;

seventeenth

seen

crimson

lining of

Gloves

with

used

a

on

ornament.

use

been

largetrade was done at
time
in
one
poisoned gloves, delicately
perfumed, to conceal their deadly purpose.
the property of
Some
gloves which were
James I. are of brown leather lined with white,
with silk and gold
and
the seams
sewn
are
thread.
The
embroidery
is in gold and silver thread
as

rather than

use

believe

to

reason

finished

Queen

Victoria

gloves, except
white
glac^

fist

a

of

tremendous

proportions.Her Majesty
kid
black
generallywears
for

kid

Court

gloves

functions,when
are
invariably

with lace insertion.

This glove was
presented used.
Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales
morning of her execution to a member
with tapering
of the Dayrell family,who
in attendance
hand
was
has a delicately-formed
Her
In
at
her size is six and a-half.
and
Fotheringay Castle.
happier days
fingers,
embroidered
Queen Mary gave an exquisitely
Royal Highness adapts her gloves to the
is always bten
and
pair of gloves,with a design in which angels' occasion
toilette,and
on

the

heads

and

flowers appear
her own
Lord
Darnley ; and
"

her husband.

the

generallyof
than

ornate
on

the

were,

those which
of

eve

in most

Though

Tudor

the

the

work
the

"

to

gloves

more
period were
adorn beauty'shands

nineteenth

century,

and

wrought with the needle.
of
historyof gloves savours

cases,

gante.

impetus to
Napoleon gave an
of industry by insistingon
gentlemen wearing gloves on State occasions
the fashion
festive gatherings,and
and
at
spread through the countries of Europe with
The

this

first

branch

rapidity.
astonishing

Chapter
IV.

CURIOUS
FOOT-GEAR.

FOOT-GEAR.

CURIOUS
A

tasteful

slipperis

soul's

my

WELL-SHAPED

A

foot

from

has

the earhest

kindest

Nature's

''^

Fazio,"

been

times

gifts,and

the sway of Cupid),
fallen under
had
energeticlady engaged the services of a
neighbouring friar,and cut the gordian knot
by marrying her faithful adorer.
first conceived
the
When
primitiveman

who

delight."

Mil man's

"

31

IV.

Chapter

"

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

this

sidered
conone

of

sober

have combined
to give
interesting
particularsrespecting
many
this portionof the human
The
anatomy.

historyand fairylore

idea

us

defend
the

producing

of

himself

from

sand

heated

of

contrivance

some

to

cold, sharp stones, or
the desert,his first effort

of his feet soles
sexes
to fasten to the bottom
similarityof the foot-gear of both
was
it impossible to
makes
the
treat
matter
were
of bark, wood,
raw
or
hide, which
the subject is practically followed, in due course,
and
as
by more
elaborately
separately,
of
leather.
These
tanned
sandals
inexhaustible,I propose
made
only to illustrate the
curious and notable examples.
fastened in various ways, but generally
most
were
One of the finest collection of shoes in the
the instep,
round
by two leathern straps, one
is that at the Cluny Museum,
the first and
world
Paris, while the other passed between
formed by the eminent French engraver, the late
second
times
sometoes.
Egyptian sandals were
sionally
JulesJacquemart. This was enlarged by the
prolonged to a sharp point,and occamade
of papyrus,
or
some
were
purchase of the collection of Baron Schvitter.
kinds
The
Queen of Italyhas also acquireda large flexible material ; but the commoner
of historical

number
to

Mr.

Joseph

collector, I

boots

indebted

am

shoes ; and

and

enthusiastic

another

Box,

for

some

of the

this article.
drawings used for illustrating
A
book,
quaint story is told in a rare
entitled
"The
Delightful,Princely, and
EntertainingHistory of the Gentle Craft of
Crispin,the Patron Saint of Shoe Makers,
and
his Brother
Crispianus," According to
this authority,
the two sons
of the
they were
King of Logia (Kent),and lived in the city
of Durovenum,
otherwise Canterbury, or the
Court
of
the
Kentish
men.
Having
embraced
during the Roman
Christianity,
in considerable
invasion, they were
danger,
and
their

at

their

mother's

to conceal
instigation,

identity,
adopted

devoted

themselves

shoemaking,
at

themselves

under

to

the

Faversham,
for

seven

to

humble
the

attire,and

modest

craft

of

maker
auspices of a shoewhom
they bound

years.

This

industrious

citizen appears to have received the appointment
of shoemaker
of Maxito the Court

were,

as

they

had

rule,of wood

a

who

was

thus

Owing

to

their

habits

customs

and

shoe

a

shoes

classes, while

compelled
will

It

sandals
work

to

be

boots

gold

soldiers
similar

wore

iron

manner

to

to

as

give the

scalingwalls
An

with

Christians.

iron

foot.
bare-

sketches

that

they

of

ally
eventu-

dress,

leg with lacings,and

the top

of

senators
a

crest

of

the foot ; and

shoes, heavilyspiked,in a
used for cricket,
now

those
wearers

a

better hold

when

in the attack of fortified

boot
As

was
an

also

used

instance

for

of the

places.
torturing
luxury so

of the age, it is stated that
soldiers often had the spikeson their

characteristic
Roman

on

upper
those

the

of

silver

or

and

that

went

The
in different ways.
black
leather,with

ornamented
had

foot

by

article of

elaborate

an

the

to

the

to

slaves

shoes

sandal

a

used

from

Roman

and
The

concluded

were

and

;

seen

and

became
bound

both

been

probably confined

were

Grecian

proximity,the
Egyptians

denotes

it has

and

;

the

respects similar.

were

same

so

of

in many
Hebrew
word

Jews
and

enemy,

Often

effigyof the
trodden
literally

the

underfoot.

wearer's

minus, whose

daughter Ursula fell in love
Crispin. After removing the usual
obstacles (which,even
in those remote
times,
obstructed
to have
the paths of those
seem

leather.

or

them

painted upon

THE
shoes

made

of

F. VOLUTION

gold. According to
JuliusCaesar wore

OF

FASHION.

the day improved
prevailingmode
by stufKingtheir
the precious metal, a fashion emulated
shoes, and twistingthem into the shape of a
by
Cardinal
ram's horn ; the point of which was
attached
Wolsey many centuries after ; and
Severus was
fond of covering his with jewels, to
The
the
knee
common
by a chain.
to attract
the attention of the people as he
the
permitted by law to wear
people were
walked
The
rich
their
shoon"
through the streets.
Emperor
pykes on
half-a-foot,
of Seneca,

the testimony

for

shoes

upon

of

we

find the courtiers of

the

"

Aurelian

citizens

forbade

while

red,
yellow, white, or
shoes, reserving
green
to

men

wear

for

itwas

shapes were
precribed by legal

to

wear

of

ferent
dif-

colours,and

for the easy

worn

usual

shoes

two

be

to

feet

long.
the
During
Plantagenetperiod

men
wo-

enactments

theirs

two-and-a-half

ent
differ-

and

;

and

princeshad

these
colours

foot,

a

nobles

they

often

were

distinguishmentof

slashed

various trades and

upper

surface,

professions. In
the reignof Domi-

show

the

tian, the stalls of

These

shoemakers

hose

were

so

as

numerous

beneath.

by
padded
gored

to

to

bright

were

in the

publicstreets

the

on

seded
super-

large,

a

shoe,
the

over

necessitate

an

foot with coloured

edict

moval.
re-

material,a fashion

for their

Our

own

imported
Italy, and

tors,
ances-

the

Anglo-

from
gerated
exag-

much

as

shoes
Saxons, wore
of raw
cow-hide,

the

as

shoe

pointed

had

been.

to

the

Buskins

were

ankles ; and
hair turned

the

boots,

made

reaching

Those

were

a

kind

while

Middle

of

round

instep.
had

during

of

bands

leather

The

half

man

worn
by the
nobilityand gentry

fastened

with

-

of

of

a

worn

by

the

later of

more

were

in fashion

these

were

that the

pliable

Crusaders

plate

OF

armour.

of the
dignitaries

Those

of chain, and

Very

during the

carried to such

material.

were

DIFFERENT

pointed toes
Middle
Ages, and
a ridiculous length

Church

considered

PERIODS

knee, and were
low shoe,

or

emblem
One
was

the

the

of
of

sions
occa-

State.

also
They were
largelyadopted by
playersof tragedy.
the
They covered

Nor-j
boots
FOOT-GEAR

the

Ages,

generallyon

the

soles of wood,
the uppers

were

of

tissue,

and

used

ecclesiastics

sandal

splendid

ward.
out-

b y

high

tied
on

just below.

the

other

The

hand,

was

sock,
the

comedy.
the greatest follies ever
introduced
sort of stiltwhich
increased

chopine,a

height of

the

wearer.

These

were

first

it necessary to preach against the practice. used in Persia,but appeared in Venice
about
was
However, this did not result in its abolition, the Sixteenth
Century, and their use

THE

EVOLUTION
in the

encouraged by jealoushusbands
keeping their wives at home.

This

of

out

as

hitherto.

than

support

Chopines

hope

desire,

not
realised,as the ladies
was
usual, and
required rather

however,

OF

an

FASHION.
abbot.

It

the Parish

Absalom,

very

the rank
the length determined
ornate, and
of the wearer,
the noblest dames
having them

he makes

inclines

one

say:

^-^^^

Richard
Lion

than when

saw

of

a

He

alludes

general use

ANGLO-SAXON

shoes

for

left and

right foot, when

NORMAN

speaks

he

of

chequered
square
Court

:

"

"

Standing in slipperswhich his nimble haste
Mad
thrust upon
falsely
contrary feet."

The

exercise

GREEK

making

was

monastic
revenues

Abbot

of

priestsof
tanners

in his

of

AND

the

gentle craft

ROMAN

of

era

with

had

enriched

a

lion.

shoes
crimson

of

in
the

Richard

III.

tissue cloth

first
and
with

of whom,

bishopor

is described
which

as

In

his boots

and

the

of

The
were

were

gold
Henry
every

splendid

III.,the royalshoes

MEDIAEVAL

themselves
associating

a

with

of Edward

SHOES.

and shoemakers, not
one
opinion,ought to be made

golden lines,

elaborately embroidered.

shoe-

for a long time carried on
increased
and
institutions,
of the clergy. Richard, the
St. Albans,objected to canons
his

in circles.

SHOES,

AND

in.

of

man

de

his

of

brother John
spotted with

chopine.'"

the
a

Cceur

had his boots

those

altitude

also
the

to

of

stripedwith gold ;

last

you

the

have

shoes.

royal

heaven
I

various
we

descriptions

ladyship is nearer

by

carved

believe in their

to

sources,

"Your

"

tells us,

were

From

-^"2^*^

Hamlet

descriptionof

priestly
origin.

when

them

maker
shoe-

a

of St. Paul's Cathedral,"

half-a-yard high.
fers
reShakespeare
to

Pope

of

Clerk, Chaucer

the windows

which

that

son

leathers of his shoes

the upper
to resemble
"

were

is said, however,

the
elected in 1316, was
in the
at Cahors
; and

John,

went
more

33

were

coronation
covered

gold. Henry

with
VIII.

SHOES.

wearing square-toed shoes,

slashed

with coloured
and
silk,
exposed a portion of the foot. Some worn
by his daughter.Queen Elizabeth,of brocaded
silk,are remarkably clumsy in appearance,
and have lappetswhich
fasten over
the
instep. They form a strikingcontrast
to
were

EVOLUTION

THE

34

those used

the

of Scots

in the

by
(now

William

with

Mary Queen
possessionof Sir James
which

ELIZABETH

QUEEN

are

toes

BOOTS.

S

hay-bands

of kid, embroidered

silks ; the

coloured

OF
OF

somewhat
In

squarer, but
those in fashion

speakingof

covering
must

A.

be

of

the

curious

leg

;

B, BUSKIN
D,

TUDOR

other

other sandal-wisc,as
districts of

some

MARY

CHARLES

L

semble
respects re-

pedal

;

extremities

Ancient

to.

C, PEAKED

works

SHOE

;

BOOTS

MILITARY

SHOE.

articles

cross-bands

for

costume

Russia

and

material

twisted to

a

little

his

sister

Cloth

gold,

dress

AT

USED

THE

NASEBY.

OF

Spain.
with

of

SPURS

AND

BATTLE

and

of the

worn

now

SCOTS.

frequentlymention
hose, socks,
made
of woollen
stockings,which were
cloth,leather,or linen,and held in place by
on

BY

WORN

SHOE

QUEEN

they are

in
Europe, particularly

the present day.
the under
foot-gear,

and

referred
briefly

CHOPINE

in
at

each
in

are

SHOE

the knee, either in close rolls,like the
ostler,or crossing
of the modern

below

unfortunate

Drummond),

FASHION.

OF

are

ordered

Isabel ;

and

broidered
stockings,em-

among

the

by Henry

III.

of

a

woman

THE

in the

mentioned
said

:

**

hosen

Hire

"

EVOLUTION

CanterburyTales," it is
weren

of

fine

scarlet

streite yteyed (tied),and shoon
(supple)and newe."
clocks
In
the reign of Henry VH.
on
cernible;
stockingsare disful

redde,

full moist

Poet

and

the

Laureate

of

OF

FASHION.

made
stockings,
time

she

wore

35
in

England

the
the

and

the invention,in 1599,

of

how

trade, which

an

St.

been

ed
clean-

were

hobbles

as

goes,
With
her

ever
since,
in the
particularly

Midland

blanket

of

shoone

ed
smear-

tallowy

with

counties

England.
Spurs can

traced
is

It

supposed

that hose

of silk

quite

this

A

Spanish

of
hose

father

with

silk

point like

those
cloth.

of

good

of

of

crewel, or

finest
or

were

cloth,

worn

all

of

colours,"cunning-

ly knit and curi- ancient
ously indented in
g,
every point, with
querks,clocks, openseams,
else

shoes"

h, greek;

a, b, c, d, e, Egyptian
i, j, k, l, Phrygian

Majesty

and

everything

states, in the
of Elizabeth,Mistress
Montague,

with

j f, Persian
and

dacian.

;

silk-woman, presented
a
pair of black silk

and

military
gear,

at

of

From
a

spur
the Battle

Naseby, in

as

considerable

paid to this portion of the
indeed,it was more elaborate

was
progress
in armour

attention

now

knit

period spurs

was

soldier's outfit ;
in designthan is

considered

Her

the

reignof Charles I.,
it will
be seen
that,'
made

accordingly."Planche

third year
the
Queen's

sketch

a

the
els
row-

formidable

dimensions.

yarn,
of

a

being fastened

silk, jarnsey,

thread,
and

to

on

shoe,instead

neck, and
spikesof the

were
stockings

worsted
the

screwed

with straps. They
were
long in the

Bess, nether socks
or

15 th
were

of

reign
Queen

the

century spurs
steel

In the

goad,

leathers.

Early in

but

simple
a

fastened

were

with

ing
hav-

any
made

els,
row-

made

a

and

his

never

worn

no

were

pair

ward
Ed-

to

VL,

of

but

Sir Thomas

by
Gresham

enough
purpose.

had

They

ed
present-

was

far

this

for

of the i6th

century.

period,
is

which

country before the
middle

be
the

to

Anglo-Saxon

were

in

unknown

back

ings
stock-

or

on

considerable

success

she

hose,
Her

has

carried

with

:

"'She

weaving

a

cation
indi-

of
boots

of

frame, by William
of
Lee, Master
Arts, and Fellow
lege,
John's ColCambridge,
gave a great impe
tus to the stocking

of

hostess

laudable

desire to encourage
their home
manufacture
her own
example. The Queen's patronage,

of

dress

inn, gives an

that

from

by

ing
king,describ-

this

and

;

others, in the

no

From
a very early
necessary.
have been used by both sexes.
I)

2

36

EVOLUTION

THE

curious

A

beginning
make

custom

of the

their

was

inaugurated by
particularlydeft

set

of

was

with

shoemaker's

tools, mounted

with

strewn

but, like

the

passed
served

as

doors.

A

of

this

protection

a

similar

;

silk,which

period clogs

were

inspire

shoes

to

and

wood,

of

out

contrivance, with

the

ring,leather strap and toe-cap,
is still sometimes
worn
by farm servants, and
is called
form
of clog,
Another
a
patten.
consistingof a laced leather boot with wooden
sole, is extensively used
by the working
in the
of
classes
North
England, and the
gear
sabot, a wooden
shoe, is the ordinary footof peasants on
is well known

It

high

rank

them

in such

almost

the

impossible

walk

to

interesting description

of

women

by compressing
it is afterwards

that

manner

in

and

;

Davis'

of
Empire
China, he relates that whenever
a
judge of
unusual
integrityresigns his post, the people

accompany
of the
with

him

city,where

In

Japan

may
are

the

and

supply

a

pair.
of

even

in

shoes

new

Here
the

our

off

afterwards

are

for

the

served
pre-

his

on

in

one

back,

case

of

only

cost

never

feet

so

own

country.

in
A

so

is

also

are

journey
that

he

need.

finds

common

toe,

great

slippers
a
starting on

rights,and

lefts and

gates

drawn

are

Straw

traveller

a

strap

the

to

of

use.

have

boots

compartment

and

home

Justice.
peculiar wooden
sandal, having

common

worn,

will

Hall

a

separate

in

his

great ceremony,
in the

a

his

from

a

They
halfpenny

those

mities
defor-

China, and

graceful

age
carri-

the shoes
depends so much
worn.
upon
and
stiff ones
to
Heavy
oblige the wearer
If the
plant the foot solidlyat every step.
toes
are
pointed it is at the sacrifice of
very
if the
heels
and
too
elasticity,
are
high the
muscles

in the

ball of the

foot

are

and

little used.

trouble

;

while

with

their

such

conduct

to

enter

in

women

the

in

of

the

in

prayed

followed

Vesta

of Diana,

that

;

ism
heathen-

The
usage.
go barefoot

to

the

of

Temple

;

out
with-

temple

a

rule

same

Crete

at

selves
them-

to

irreverence

of

this

of

for
on.

apartment

classical

obliged

were

Temple

existed

or

things

than
shoes

insult
their

to

Even

instances

affords
Roman

Few

with

mosque,

them.

embroidered

height

the

church,

a

removing

feet

single sole,

disgust
an

pollution

a

the

for
a

rooms

a

out
with-

off.

greater

enter

are

by

replaced

or

morocco

easilythrown

it is considered

and

those

; and

Jupiter

also

this custom.

of the
public removal
giving it to another,
accompanied
words, signifiesa
by certain
of authority or relinquishing possestransfer
sion.
In

East, the
shoe, and

the

sandal

the

of

think

who

Chinese

their feet

deform
a

Continent.

that

to

They

be

slippers,with

are

them

anyone

tion
addi-

not

coloured

of

made

hats.

surmounted

are

could

loose

soon

iron

an

which

have

when

their

remove

and

covered,

fads, it

of

would

considerable

they

were

their craft

of

made

were

head-dress

silver,

boudoirs

feminine

About

away.
used.
These

also

in

implements
other

many

in

all occasions

on

so

being generally shaven,

heads,

always

plained
bitterlycom-

Tradesmen
tables

work

Their

by uncovering

reverence

do

nations

beautiful

a

indicate

feet, and

Western

who

Charlotte,

handling

their

to

fashion

This

Queen

ivory handles.
that

shoes.

in

ladies

for

Orientals

the

at

vogue

century

indoor

own

in

was

present

FASHION.

OF

or

We

told

are

when

her

marry

her, in favour
drew

he

slipper;
shoes

gave up
her second

his

husband,
the

Among

permits
divorces

and

right to

his cousin
his

to

runaway

"
She
was
my
says,
her off."
Again, when

generally
cast

left at the

they denote
engaged, and
venture

or

Ruth

of

case

shoe."

man

a

I have

are

of

his

off

Bedouins, when
another,
marry
spouse,

in the

kinsman

Boaz,
"he

the

into

even
a

of

door

the

that

wife's

master
a

an

apartment,

or

mistress

husband
room

while

does
he

is
not
sees

idea
threshold.
The
the
slippers on
is not
selves,
ouraltogether unknown
among
it is expressed in the
as
homely
man's
in another
shoes ;"
proverb, to stand
into
when
of
or
a
we
coming
speak
inheritance
dead
future
as
stepping into a
man's
Also
in flinging the
shoe."
slipper
after
a
departing bride, signifying that
the
his
the
father
transfers
authority to
the

"

"

husband.

V.

Chapter

BRIDAL

COSTUME.

THE

EVOLUTION

OF

curious
CERTAIN
with
associated

Marriage from

a

dower

of

some

tribes ; the providingof husbands
and wives
for a familyaccording to seniority
(so that
had to
members
younger
souls in patiencetill the elder

the

the

of);
the
her

paying

services

bride's

of

an

possess
ones

were

on

their
posed
dis-

for
equivalent

of divorce.

case

complete outfit
always included

semi- barbaric

or

in

Rich

shawls,fine

dresses, personal ornaments,

very earlyperiod,and
mentioned
the union

may
relations in barbaric

among
of near

been

Ordinance

the

be

others

COSTUME.

have

customs

39

V.

Chapter
BRIDAL

FASHION.

of the
such

and
a
money,
domestic
utensils are

of
in

such

gift. Among

a

tribes the dower

Arab

occasions, and

called

received
the

"five

consists of a carpet, a silver nose
articles,"
and
ring,a silver neck chain, silver bracelets,
camel
a
overtures
are
bag. Matrimonial
generallymade
by the parents of the con-

to

in money
or
festivities
and

father

kind

;

several

over
lasting

often

celebrate

days
nuptials. The
to

acquaint
fact

with

us

that

the

Rabbins

feastingwas

the

days'

seven

pensable
indis-

an

obligationon
married

all
that

the

consigned to
until

band

and

men,

bride

was

not

her

husthe

after

days of feastinghad
were
expired, They
generally spent in the
house

of

the

woman's

father, after which
in

conducted

was

state

to

home.

her
When

was

in the

husband's
the bride

vities
widow, the festi-

a

three

she

great

only lasted for
days. Customs
East are perpetuatedfrom

to

another, and

inhabitants

we

of the Orient

MARRIAGE

one
tion
generafind among
the
the same
mode
of

now

life as

PROCESSION

OF

been

concluded,

LEBANON.

IN

the

after all has

bride-elect

has

nally
nomi-

the power, though itis seldom
exercised,
tion
of expressingher dissent before the connecits final sanction.
receives
Among
many

Genesis, differs in few respects from

suffered

that of

BRIDE

partiesin Persia, but
tracting

was
adopted by the patriarchsof old.
descriptionof the wooing of Isaac and
Rebekah, for example, so graphicallytold in

The

A

Bedouin
to

know

tribes

the

until

the

woman

is

not

monies
betrothing cere-

it to her who is to be her
rank
in the
announce
couple of the same
it is too late to negative
then
Handsome
and
husband,
present day.
presents, consisting
of jewels,apparel,"c., are presented to the
the contract, but she is permittedto withdraw
a

young

woman

and

her

"and
family,

form

part of her

from

her

husband's

tent

the

day

after her

marriage, and
which

to

return

to

her

father ; in
is

formallydivorced, and
On
regarded as a widow.

she

case

henceforward

is

the

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

40

Various

materials

employed in their
necessarilyrare, silver
less so, while others are composed of amber,
and beads.
coral,mother-of-pearl,
Rebekah
We
are
told, when
approached
manufacture

her

future

home

the

him

and

"

;

she

saw

evinced

a
a

discoveringthat

on

veil and

a

head

the

local

body

are

to

in

her

able
indispens-

an

The

costume.

coming

home

a

other

on

and

It

for

is conducted

husband, and it is considered
part of the bridal

East

concealed

occasions,to envelop her
an
ample veil before she

Isaac,

herself"

in the

face is not

whose

it was

covered

universal

is still almost

of

walkingin

man

natural
curiosity,
circumstances,and inquiredabout

took

woman,

is

and

the distance,she
under

are

gold

;

details

modified

the

by

and

usages
countries.
In

of the
different
religions
Syria,Persia,and India, the

bridegroom,in
in

some

a

near

the bride
person, bringshome
other countries this duty devolves on

and
relative,

receive the

lady on

but

sources,

to
EGYPTIAN

BRIDAL

circumstances.

bridegroom

COSTUME.

bride
of

value

her

Arab, as

the

ornaments

bases her claim

consideration

to

Eastern
;

and

bride

though

is

goes

gather

the

to

the

he

has

home

richly
honour

wife

arrived.

In

often

The

have

but

same

to

the

form

of

the

usual
un-

up

They
sole

are

for

not

special

is usual

as

nations,

Western
used

on

reaching

and

occasions,
among
but are

is not

woman's

treasured

own

several

wear

elbow.

wealth,

and

their

arm,

a

enings,
fast-

no

open

by
compress
elasticity.It
the

leg

bracelets

enormously

thick, and

to

his

and

and

ornaments
are

as

be reflected

may

himself
upon
circumstances.

as

part of

daily costume.

FESTIVITIES

AT

AN

EASTERN

in

Jews

when

MARRIAGE.

his

in procession

Western

procession usually walks,

possible,that

as

the

Mosque

a

his

decks

to

various

indications
that

returns

rule,cares
little for his own
dress,
the

home

at

From

these methods, according
Again, in Egypt the

expected,and
after she

Asia

remains

from
particularly

Scripture,we
may
employed either of
ANCIENT

he

her arrival.

:

if

the

bride's future house
the

covered
partially
and

Eastern

mounted

a

great distance

no

in

she is often

cases

and in Central
a canopy,
it is the rule for her to be

by

Asia

on

is at
In such

town.

same

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

mule,

mare

ass,

camel,

or

and

FASHION.

here

find

we

described

41

as

the

Egyptianbride's

gloriouswithin

"all

and

dress

wrought

of needlework."
Both
gold, a raiment
dress, and
expressions refer to the same
embroidered
was
imply that the garment
with figures worked
with threads
of gold.
The
famous
for
their
Egyptians were
of

embroideries, and

mummies

some

have

been

mented
wrapped up in clothing
curiouslyornawith gold lace.
At the present day,
both in Egypt and
Western
Asia, it is usual
for ladies of the highestrank to employ much
of their time in working with the needle linen
and cotton
tissues in gold and
silver thread

found

and

silk of different colours.

The

were

is of great antiquity.
of nuptialcrowns
Among the Greeks and Romans
they
chapletsof flowers and leaves,and the
use

modern

A

GREEK

a

of course, depends on
Music
those married.
and

often

palanquin. Much,

the social
attends

dancing;

the former, and
some
also,at least,in the time of
In

Halhed's

marrying
usage

When,
to

be

translation

in Mr.

Roberts's

reference

is made

the

of
position

such

the

had

Laws, and

employing

BRIDESMAID.

she is carried in

unless

retain this custom,

Greeks

sions,
proces-

Jews certainly

think

the

latter

Saviour.

our

of

the

Gentoo

Oriental

"

to

trations,"
Illus-

the custom

ot

sister first,
and the same
with regard to the brothers.

elder

is observed

in India, the elder daughter happens
blind, deaf, dumb, or deformed, this

formalityis dispensed with ; and there have
been cases
when
a
wishing to obtain a
man,
in
daughter,has used every means
younger
his power
to
promote
future sister-in-law,
so

the settlement
as

nuptials. Fathers, too,
their powers
to compass
elder daughter, when
offer is made

to

of his

his

will sometimes

own

exert

marriage of the
advantageous
very

the
a

for the younger

It is

forward

one.

generally believed that Psalm
xlv.,
The Song of Loves,"
as
commonly known
was
composed on the occasion of Solomon's
marriage probably to Pharaoh's daughter;
"

"

MODERN

GREEK

BRIDAL

COSTUME.

with

ribbons

lace.

chaplets,decorated
Modern
Jews do

their

marriage ceremonies, and

such

us

since

that
the

they
last

been

have

siege

not

of

use

crowns

and
in

they inform
discontinued

Jerusalem by the

information

The

Romans.

which

the

Gemara

WEDDING

bride's

the

that

metals.

GERMAN,
i6tH

RING,
VENETIAN,

D,

century;

crown

was

is also

There

RING,

of the

precious

mention

of

a

by the
crystal,

made
of salt and sulphur,worn
bridegroom, the salt transparent as
the figuresbeing represented
in sulphur. Crowns
thereon
an
important
play
part in the
of
the
nuptial ceremonies
Church
also
Greek
; they are
still used
by Scandinavian
crown

B,

E,

CENTURY;

MODERN

ENGLISH,

white

enamel
modern

is of

fingerssupport
Italian

other

given,with
mark

intention
the

solemn

it is

which

both

of

a

was

from

which

term

wedding.

have

a

that the

law

as

The

which

nuptialring

size and
but

were

elaborate
now

the

ring.

to

has

a

to

the

at

and

man

so

solid

one

woman

upper

and

the

witness

lower
the

the
ring. When
marriage took
place these
were
joined togetherand used
at the ceremony.
During the

the
the

sixteenth and
it

shall be
of

not

gift.
AN

EASTERN

BRIDE,

ship,
workman-

ordinary plain gold hoop

Shakespearianera
of Lucretia holdingthe dagger,
portrait

wedding ring

be closed

intermediate

of

large

three

customary

and

ones,

Jews

of

a

springor

asunder

betrothal,the
the

of
a

like

these

taking

to

could

appear
It was

break

is used.
A

to

proclaims

of certain value, and must
be obtained
by credit or

Formerly they

as

"wed,"

derive

we

has

also

consisted

pivot,and

parties to

it, a

D

inscription.
The
gimmal betrothal ring
formerlya favourite pattern,

circlets attached

symbol

pledge,or,

called

Saxons

handsome

a

Hebrew

the

covenant

is

A

ark, and

the

the
signifies

eternity,and

keep

is a

Its form

of

diamond.

rose

in raised
bosses, while C is of
F, bearing initials on
vezet, is of
bronze.

was

presents,

completion

the

contract.

of

but

a

peasant wedding-ring B

Jewish wedding-ring,bearing

days
prominent

not

14TH

BRONZE

gold

silver ;

former

the
occupy
does
it
position
now,
did

C, ITALIAN,

ENGLISH

F,

and
in

ring

1706, where

dated

ITALIAN;

1706;

brides.
The

by

a

CENTURY.

17TH

The

beingformed

is

very common
in the illustration of the

Englishwedding-ringE,

BETROTHAL

some

This

two

CENTURY;

17TH

side of the circle

reverse

clasped hands.
shape, and is shown

gives on this subjectis brieflythat the crown
of gold and silver,or
of the bridegroom was
and
else a chapletof roses, myrtle,or olives,

A, JEWISH

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

42

was

common

turies
cen-

tice
prac-

these emblems
to engrave
affection with some
priate
approIt was
motto.
from

Pagan

Rome

nations

ring, as they were
long before there

seventeenth
a

that

derive

the

in their

used
is any

trace

European
weddingbetrothals

of them

where.
else-

of the

In

describing the

bridal

costumes

of

EVOLUTION

THE

nations, it

different

in mind

borne

that

be
distinctly
largemajorityof the

should
a

with which

we

occasions

such

classes wear
on
upper
traditional white satin

the

blossoms
and
orange
ever,
all familiar.
Many, how-

are

preferthe picturesquenational costume
with the land of their birth,and it
has been my principal
object,in selectingthe
make
them
as
to
illustrations,
typical as
possible.
The
Greek
marriage service is full of
the
sketch
gives a
symbol, and
good
associated

idea

bridal

the

of

with

of bride and
in

and

symbol

the

skirt of

crimson

fez

the

"

the

and

forwards,

which

do

dowry

and

the

to

pose and dress at once
and free. Formerly

garment
down

and

given

in

mother
such

an

the

soft

robe, lined
enriched

with

with

Tiny
shades

of red,

industryand

robes, however,
Greece

since the

more

to

the

FORMERLY

BY

GREEK

worker.
been

not

of

BRIDES.

in

of the

home

than

little

her trousseau,

is

veil

curious

fire

lighted
wears,

and

or

by throwingupon

itscented

of

flour,
husband

of

their

on

by sprinkling

couple is consecrated

a

handful

a

saffron,mixed

with

presents his wife with

them

entered

The

hood
girl-

house-

A

missionarythus

rice

Finally, the
a littlegolden

shoulders.

image called talee^ a substitute for
by Indian women
wedding ring,and worn
their symbol of matrimony.

of her

sels.
tas-

marriagesthe
oman
(which is

ample enough, as a rule,to
woman's
a
satisfyeven
passion for dress.
The nuptialstake place in the evening,and
the bride is garbed in virginwhite robes,
figured with a lozenge design. These
ments
garthe giftof the bridegroom, and in
are
she passes from the home
that of her husband.
to

tume,
cos-

composed

oils,sandalwood, incense, and other aromatic
perfumes) is a prominent feature,and the

and
lily

usuallytakes

bride

the native

to

In Hindu

renewed
constantly

canopy

and

of gold beads
strings

)
sacred

the seventeenth

beautiful land

a

Kensington Museum

These
used

WORN

ceremony

species of

a

in addition

beginningof

her husband's

which

India

broidery.
em-

skill of the

the bride

referred to,
it is customary

and

union

Japan, the
chrysanthemum,

in

under

GARMENT

nations

Oriental

perform

to

century.
In

soul.

marriage processions

richlyornamented
by lamps. The

cate
deli-

of two

alreadybeen

and

blue,and

have

and
other

have

by black lines {From South
green, divided
the designand proclaim
form
the

are

The
of

in

stars

to

as

placed together,

graceful

elaborate

side, so

symbolize the joiningof

body

passed
daughter,
example is
yellow silk

the

is thrown

candles

a

to

of

sweets

Rice

the wicks

wedding

white

henceforward

mingle,and
to

often

was

from

a

years.
either

from

as

is

band
hus-

partakeequallyof

coming

paniment
accom-

trimming,it

to

the bitters and

she

service

double

a

butterflyfills the

signifiesthat
they are

coins,
jingling

of the

At

vase.

and afterwards
drinking first,
This draught
the wife.

backwards

gracefully sways

is

ceremony

the other offers it to

and

usual

As

ceremony.

this country are
The
most
felicity.

kneelingcouple,the

the

head-gear of a Greek maiden.
is depicted scattering
She
ancient
rite always
an
corn,
the
conclusion
at
performed
of

in

two-mouthed

vase,

a

holds

colouringrival these

one
signal,

jacket, a
brilliant colouring,
and

it also

conjugal
the marriage

the

of

scene

and

large

a

specialattendants
called butterflies,

two

dress and

part of

solemn

The

insects,which
of

stands

Eve, and the mystic

bridegroom are

their

beautiful

flowers

cedar;
and

stork.

turtle and

the

dwarf

a

Japanese Adam

assembled

are

with

offerings.Near

table, with
the

families

altar decked

an

covered

both

of

gods

embroidered

gold
the

hold
before

43

costume.

is attired in

bridesmaid

The

FASHION.

OF

describes

a

the
as

Buddhist

bride, loaded with jewellery,
richly attired,
accompanied by women

marriage :
"

the

bridegroom

"

The

and

room,
on

the

sat

floor.

down
A

with
number

the

of

THE

44

EVOLUTION

OF

FASHION.

member
then lighted,
and the company
of the family who
can
contract
a
understand
as
we
congratulatedthe happy couple, marriagein the legal sense
and expressed their kind wishes
by blowing it,but all his brothers are accepted by the
husbands.
smoke
towards
them, while a band of string wife as inferior or subordinate
music.
instruments
discoursed
Two
sweet
they are kept well under the
By this means
cushions
were
they
placed before the bridegroom, control of the superior husband, whom
which
sword
was
laid,and food was
on
a
Big Father," and, as a matter
regard as the
candles

were

saluted

and

"

also

them.

near

bound

were

other

with

silken

the

are

hands
the

the

brings the

betel

declared

twain, but

Cherokee

form

simple.
running stream,
most

their

future

should

flow

of

The

emblematic

in

the

and

no

flesh.

The

marriage is perhaps
two
over
join hands
of the wish

the
a

that

aspirations,
channel.

same

A

is the putting
of the Lascars
peculiarcustom
of a ring on
the great toe when
they marry.
Mrs.
has explored Tibet and
Bishop, who
studied the habits and customs
of the people,
informs us that polyandry is favoured
by the
of

women

land

and

that
eldest

country.
son

The

appears

heir
to

of

be the

have

never

their

born

be

may

are

attached

family are

the

to

in concord, and
the
the satisfaction of knowing that
to

work

of

course

average
become

always be

an

they
longer

are

lives, hopes, and
on

bride

of

one

;

seem

who

him.

the whole

women

in the

children

any

soil,and

bridegroom's

after which

contact,
and wife,and

man

as

of the
nut

form,
Thus

was

of incanta-

sort

heads

in close

regarded

accepted by

act

Each

HINDU

are

of

Brief,
ceremony."
marriage indulged

by the people of Borneo.
a
contractingpartieschews
mutters
some
elderlywoman

bridegroom

each
each

of

in

tion, and

to

relative present,

nearest

forms

of

two

This

threads.

performed by the
and
completed
indeed,

the

Next

together,then

widows,
to

someone
"

offspring.

Nature

and

that

work

for

It is the custom

they

can

there

will

them

and

for the

men

PROCESSION.

and

and

of

women

bride

for each

a

her

enters

villageto

of them

to

assemble

with

home

when

a

husbands,

her

present her with three

Tibetan

wife,far from spending
gifts on
personal adornment, looks
ahead, contemplating possiblecontingencies,
and immediately hires a field,the produce of
The

rupees.
these

which

is her

own,

and

The

from

accumulates

that she may
not
year
year,
should she desire a divorce."
to

so

be

less
portion-

of course,
differ materially
tribes,
marriage customs, but some
exchange for the services of the

African

in their
form
woman

the

shape

only

father.

of

are

of

a

On

insisted

on,

present

of

the

West

and

often

cattle to

take

the

the bride's

Coast, in the

neigh-

THE

bourhood

Gaboon,

of

where

EVOLUTION

OF

is

slavedom

recognised,there is an
understanding that
be purchased for a slave bundle,
a wife may
valued
and
at about
^^6 in English money,

FASHION.

45
toilet of

of the
amusing account
bridegroom: "Outside

the mother

to

discovered

the

of

the

his toilet at

a

a

Fernandian

hut, belonging

small

bride expectant, I

soon

happy bridegroom undergoing

the

hands

of his future

wife's

profusionof Tshibbu stringsbeing
round
his body, as well as his legs
fastened
and arms, the anointing lady,having a short
black
pipe in her mouth, proceeded to rub
He
with Tola
seemed
him
over
pomade.
the
of
at
not
anticipation
altogetherjoyous
his approachinghappiness,but turned a sulky
which
then on a piece of yam
and
gaze now
he held in his hand, and which had a parrot's
sister.

A

feather

red

fixed

called

was

its

on

side.

convex

is

Ntshoba,' and

'

This

regarded

a

as

the
protection against evil influences on
borne down
important day. The bride was
and
by the weight of rings and wreaths
Tola pomatum
girdlesof Tshibbu.
gave her
of
the appearance
face, which

her
VEIL

OF

HINDU

BRIDE.

of

excess

reported
there

to

appears

be

youth, beauty, form,
contains specimens of
keeper.
storegeneral
The

slidingscale

no
or

degree.

A

to

as

bundle

every article sold

by

smeared
of

a

exhumed

an

all

was

with

over

What

white

a
a

the classical wreath

from

are

being

paste, the emblem

hideous

of

save

from

race

negro

blue, but

blush

purity."

the

for

modesty,
to

mummy,
white ; not

orange

substitute

for

blossoms, and

most

important features
of

slave bundle

a

Neptune,

a

are

brass
for

making

which

is

article

salt,

current

a

of

merce,
com-

and

a

native

of

or

used

pan

piece
cloth,

manufactured

by

these

for

people

dress

purposes,

from

a

speciesof

palm which
on

grows

the river banks

in

ance.
luxuri-

great
Both

anoint
with

greater

greasy
and

Mr.

stances,
sub-

HINDU

can

be

paid to

an

African

say she looks "fat and shining."
Hutchinson, in his interestingwork,
to

Years

CEREMONY.

MARRIAGE

no

compliment

belle than
"Ten

oil and

palm

other

sexes

themselves

in

Ethiopia,"gives a quaint and

what

a

contrast

cosmetic
skin

upon

peels
which

According

to

must

offered

be

off and

when

displaysthe

the

dusky

it is laid !
Russian

law,

no

man

can

EVOLUTION

THE

46

OF

before he is

marry

eighteenyears of age, or a
she is sixteen ; nor
after he is
she is sixty. Priests are permitted

before

woman

eighty,and
to

marriages without

Secret

once.

marry
witnesses

regarded

are

and
invalid,

as

both

FASHION.

handkerchief,and
the

on

three distinct

are

Norwegian

a

a

wife, she

bringup
Greco

-

ancient

Russian

a

children

any

Russian

the

custom

marriage.

family,and

The

consists

linen, and
silver,
kinds.

dress.

During girlhood, up
is much

of

the

in

a

the

marriage
coiled
tied

time

of

for which

girlsdo
preparatory training,
from

home

to

work,

or

earn

baptized

have

may

of

in the

furniture
unm.arried

an

in

Russia

single plait hanging
shoulders,

braids
cap

the

to

occasion

an
According to
bridegroom presents his
and jewelleryworn
at
from
her
dowry comes
of a complete wardrobe,

peasant class

After

a

usuallygo

solemn

for
foreigner
in writingto

a

herself
she

household

hair

The

has

faith.

bride with the costume
the

be

must

takes

bind

must

the life

one

BRIDE.

bridegroom
If

each

characteristics,
as
particularly
regards

not

and

an

marked

there

persons.

periodsin
and

woman,

confirmation,a

bride

considered

is

symbol of marriage. Marriages
of the
are
performed after banns, and much
fineryused by the lower classes is hired for
the occasion; and
in the
the crowns
used
Russian
are
generallythe property
ceremony
of the Church.
worn
Formerly they were
tinued.
for a week, but this practicehas been disconThere

RUSSIAN

littlelappetof linen rests

inevitable

of

A

a

forehead, and

tied

and
it

round

behind, or

is
the

of all
woman

is dressed
loose

with

arranged

upon
ribbon.
in

head, covered

with

a

cotton

two

with
or

silk

NORWEGIAN

their
this

PEASANT

own

living.Among

their

takes

AND

the

BRIDEGROOM.

poorer

classes

place when
they are
Their petticoats
short and
are
hair is arranged in two
long plaits.
confirmation
they are supposed to

ceremony
about fifteen.
After

BRIDE

THE

regard life

from

to

themselves

engage

according
of

its more

is married

course,

various

stated
nor

that

neither

the

holy
they can

by

contract

bring

show

can

evidence
household.
is

The

ORNAMENT
SWEDISH

PEASANT

BRIDE.

apparel,which

and

wedding day.
bride

At

the

wears

brass

portionis of
Such

the

wear

is

of

plainskirt
with

snowy

linen, a

green,

ornamented

buckles, and
with

is

worn

is

band

and

depending

beaten

its

wears

a

fastened

from

cloth coat

red

three

it

"

in the

of

ages.

It would

therefore

appear

that

and

brides.

bosses,

are

small
ing
bear-

the

too,
He

fashion.
cut

short

buttons,and

black

The

tion
illustra-

heirloom

and

waistcoat

a

and
loose

with embroidered
small

connection

Norway

days, and

trumpets

and

clothes

show

advantage a well-shapedleg,and
the feet are
low
shoes.
Usually
in

as

to

medallion
in

ornamented

festivitiesin

them

trimmed

to

wedding

rim

a

bands

initials I.H.S.

with brass
The

revers.

a

shape

red

used

breast
silver-gilt

probably an

was

from

of

apron

A

hat

bridegroom's

Levites

rial,
mate-

by Swedish
wrought with

sacred

and

a

full sleeves of

with

discs, and

the

the

a

occasion

an

woollen

and

embroidery.

ornament

such

some

white

The

water

for the head.

corselet

a

race,

for all the

on

of

bodice

a

has

centuries

adornment

usual dress

very
a

nomadic

a

fire,air,earth, and

upper
gold,sometimes

family for

same

"

years

performed
as
a sign of

the

uncommon

one

becomes

as

elements

two

is

precious stones.
generallyheirlooms,

are

it is not

brides

A

with

crowns

and

head, and

silver and

embellished

wife

when

It

crown.

fit the

to

a

Jews when
taking of Jericho; and modern
ceremony,
the young
the ceremony
couple go to
they confess their sins announce
the church, accompanied
In ancient
by blowing a ram's horn.
change
by their friends,and exEgypt and other parts of Africa, Jupiter
Ammon
was
worshipped under the figureof
ringsof plaingold
and presents of jewellery a ram, and to this deityone
of these animals
be worn
sacrificed annually. It seems
the
must
to have
on
was
her marriage the peasant
of power
from the remotest
been an emblem

WORN

BY

a

preceded by

among

prominent position. The horn is the
and is often made
use
symbol of authority,
rams' horns
of in Scripture. So much
were
esteemed
by the Israelites that their priests

age
marri-

betrothal

a

take

sufficient

of

becomes

marriage ceremony
priestwearing a ram's horn

office,and,
four

ample

provide for

to

means

merrymaking
bridegroom.

The

later.

tion,
proof of their confirmaand

feasting and

the friends of bride and

fourteen, and

men

enter

can

47

Gipsies are, as a rule,married at a very
earlyage. A girl is generallybetrothed at

it should

women

upon
unless

is much

duties,

third stage,
be

The

life,and

FASHION.

OF

aspect, and

serious

with

their station.

to

EVOLUTION

are

with

a

kept

during the

on

the

peasant
up

time

for
there

A

bridegroom's

toilet

at

FERNANDO

PC.

the

48

EVOLUTION

THE

practice of the gipsy priest wearing a ram's
from
his
a
suspended
string round
neck
from
the
at
marriage is derived
a
undoubtedly points to
highest antiquity, and
the Oriental
origin of the gipsy race.
Various
expedients have been resorted to by
different rulers of sparsely
to
populated kingdoms
horn

ancient

of

not

were

have

to

certain

fixed

of

they
rods

I

at

OS.;

commoners

to

taxed

lower

to

in

and

age.
Bridesmaids

day
only

present

who

married

have

modern

BRIDE.

is

speak,

"

smaller

a

state

a

Dukes,

:

sum,

if

of

and

study
comfort

single

a

encouraged
lottery,and
very

tender

if
out

made

not

they

also, especially those

at

has

of this vital matter
those

marriage
of

quarter

per

Anglo-Saxon times attended
the bride, and
on
performed specified duties,
particularly in the festivities which
usually
followed
such
occasions.
Even
on
during

mean

and

of

1894,95,366

ten

the

by

same

years.

facts, so
assailed

the

the

"Darkest

marriage
that
during

first three

1893, and

for

our

bitter

however,

months
cent,

cry
Spinsterdom."

first

no

of
the

of

the

over

for the

are

need

going

the

increase

an

quarter

of

wonder
is

joined

were

per

9

Figures
ears

to

in

Islands,

who

us

It may,

persons

British

over

year,

rate

know

to

in the

cent,

?

to

woman

complete

beginning

are

giving

fashion,

together
18

who

what

among
and

exhaustive

an

occasion

no

for

is there
rates

marriage
England

in

there
ENGLISH

AN

been

before.

customs

previous
in

the

is considered

women

shilling each,

betrothed

ployed
em-

appropriate to the virgin,
is absolutely dispensed
with
by those

in

in

were

this purpose;

and

of

peers

is

of

accounts

silks

at

white

Of

Widows

were

spiced

brides

of

From

for

high degree and fortune, were
dip again in the matrimonial

children

of kine

for

golden tissues,and

following

remain

blush

coloured

Mary,
the

of lilies not

in bygone
gowns
find rich brocades,
times, we

As

one

blessedness.
of

posset shall be

bridal

sound

reign

were

England

elected

the

and

widowers

prayer

fashion

one.

altars,

songs.

the

as

"

shall

wearing spotless white
a
comparatively modern

beaten

were

to

William

;^i2

The

the

the

to

scornful

late

maiden

right to

the

had
them

with

cream

And

sions,
occa-

then

and

where

the

now

With

festivals, except

women

sweet

said,

excluded

were

lead

Hesperides:"

"

short
be

nor

participation

on

moon
honey-

to

prepare
posset," which

in
A

"

mitted
per-

they occupy
any
or
military post.

public

Herrick

part in

a

government,

from

duty

wine."

the

They

by

to

pany
accom-

their

"benediction

the

present

is referred

century
to

one

on

her

also

was

And

might
civil

it

legacy
Sparta,
Lycur-

any
in

rule

they

gus,

and

couple

bachelor

a

and

the

under

; and

present
for

custom

bridal

the

the

of

portion

common

a

law

the

inherit

whatever,

was

made

that

should

it

In

state.

Rome

forbade

earlier

the

enter

to

men

encourage
married
the

FASHION.

OF

ceding
pre-

vertible
incontro-

longer

be

Chapter

MOURNING.

VI.

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

51

VI.

Chapter

MOURNING
air is full of farewells

"The
And

mourning

the

to

for the dead."

dying
Lougfellcmj.

"

signs of mourning in ancient times
the
confined
to
by no means
apparel. Fasting, laceration of the
flesh,throwing dust on the head, and shaving

THE

were

ANCIENT

outward
and visible signs of
hair,were
accompanied by piercingcries of the
grief,
also
most
heartrendingdescription.It was
rend

abstain

to

the

from

learn that the

to

ornaments,

black

as

to

followed

by
had

the
robes

The

Romans.

of

black

East, made

of

hair,which

has

a

as

A year was
the
usual periodfor

ther,
wife, famother,
ther
brosister,or

was

a

female

;

the

Roman

been

The

LAVING

OUT

MOURNING

AND

THE

another

mourners,

manifestation

by
and

the
the

of

hoods

sorrow
worn

a

"

by

flowinghat-bands

not

accorded

but

tions
rela-

who

had

outlawed,

imprisoned, or
bankrupt,were

DEAD.

the

practiceindicated

band,
hus-

mourninga

ial

coveringof

were

compelled
to
adopt the
symbols of woe.
not

was

it ent
pen
dress
by

head

by
dispensation,
young

for this purpose

Church.

wise

same

but

children

the

upon

skin, and

veils

the

shade;

fect
efirritating

early

of

women

cloth, with
of

put

fabric was, and
is still in the

adopted

chose
fashion

"

This

an

Greeks

cloth.
sack-

of

for

colour

appropriate a

most

filthygarments

on

the

The

garments.

the

ing,
cloth-

and

three thousand

PROCESSION.

mourning

Rome

Egyptians,over
yellowas

selected

ago,

years

FUNERAL

JEWISH

the

customary

for men,
at funerals a few years
so
common
"
In
A
History of ISIourning,"by
ago.
Richard
interesting
Davey, from which many
facts on
this subject may
be gathered,we

this mark

published

certain

mDurners,

includingone

laws

of respect. Numa
the guidance of

for

forbiddingwomen
E

2

THE

52
to

scratch

their

faces,or

EVOLUTION

make

to

an

OF

tional
excep-

display of grief at funerals. The
Emperor Justinian(a.d.537) also turned his
attention to this subject,
and
regulatedthe
funeral ceremonies, so
at
to
as
expenses
those

secure

who

of

calamity

remained

the double

from

losingtheir friends

and,

the

at

FASHION.

were
expected to abstain from going to
and placesof amusement
;
publicceremonies
sexes

and

record

their lords

that

their

to

and

burying

each person free
of cost, and for

before

sunrise,

so

to

avoid

ing
Mourn-

THE

tions.
extor-

MODE

OF

THE

ENFOLDING

DEAD

and

accompanied
the

appropriated for

the purpose.
in the same

those

buried
who

desired

of

purpose

conducted

were

appointed for
be

do

to

by

ments,
inter-

the chief

those

grave, on the
This custom,

All persons
manner;
so

were

though

could, at their

but this
cost, indulge in certain display,
additional
On
limited.
state
was
expense

East, was
and

occasions,as,

for

the

example, on

death

THE

Emperor

nation

or

a

great

the

assumed

defeat, the

sufficient

of
could

be

return

of

a

Private

all

sidered
con-

for

the

prisonertaken

a

in

by
a

son

child,or the
war.

Both

a

were

sent
not

domestic
habit

well

feast

as

was

countries.

consisted
and

derived

was

from

a

of

The

funerals.

common

practice
kept

was

in various
period,

Cup

of

lightrefreshments

tion
Consola-

prepared

by the friends of mourners,
supposed to busy themselves

in

affairs at

such

gives a good
adopted by the

deceased.
of the dead,

Caves
as

well

were
as

of which
sepulchres,

a

idea

the

Jewish,Roman,

in Greek

comparativelyrecent

European

ing
mourn-

the Romans
among
birth of
the
as
events,

daughter,the marriage of

CONSOLATION.

The

broken

certain domestic
or

importance

of this custom.

OF

Catalina,

which

classical ancients,and

the

up to

days followinginterment.

usual feature in

a

among

in her visits to the

mourner

seven

funeral

of

whole

mourning garb.

defeat of Cannae, the conspiracyof
and the death of JuliusCaesar,were
observance

CUP

female

Egyptian,as

The

own

an

took

part in the procession,

from

which

to

as

tation.
osten-

women

Funds
were

their

dead

protectingthe
various

Greeks

The
buried

made

survivors

applied

masters

vision
Prowas

tilla

marry

conduct.

own

their

on

account.

for

to

elapsed from the husband's death,
year
without
the
special permission of the
not
History, however, does
Emperor.
had

bilities
this rule
time, incurringheavy pecuniarylia-

same

allowed

not

were

women

time.

The

who
with
tration
illus-

mourning
immediate
familyof the
used
for the disposal
constructed
elaborately
many

of the

remain

to

this

EVOLUTION

THE

day.

Earth

burial

cremation
carried
One

we

it to

a

to.

to

owe

favour
war

great

the

with

of

state

53

processionswere
magnificent. When
king quittedthis mortal sphere,the temples
for seventy-two days, and there
closed
were
funeral

some

pestilence
The practiceof
Egyptians, who
or

a

sacrifices,solemnities, or

no

were

Companies

perfection.

earliest embalmments

of the

is that

of

resorted

was

embalming

in

was

in time

nations, but

FASHION.

OF

of two

or

three hundred

feasts.
and

men

record

on

Joseph, whose

of

body accompanied
journey through the
He
Wilderness.
was
placed in a cofifin,a
distinction in the East only accorded
to those
of the highest rank, the usual
mode
being
the
to
simply swathe
closely in
corpse
and
bandages, thus retaining the
wrappers
form.
of
human
the
The Jews largely
shape
used
ployed
emspices and perfumes, which were
the

Israelites

both

on

for

their

and
anointing

for

wrappingup

PRIEST

TO

in

women,

WITH

EDGED

DALMATIC

READY

the

paraded

attire

A

FUR,
MASS.

REQUIEM

SAY

mean

WEARING

CENTURY,

lOTH

THE

OF
BLACK

streets,

and
reciting the
singing plaintivesongs
virtues of him
they had lost. They ate
dressed
food
by fire, and
or
no
meat,
omitted

their

Every
favourite

a

mourned

ANGLO-SAXON

the

WIDOW.

to

of the

the

body

very necessary
The
Egyptians,on

climates.
relative

precautionin

a

"

or

sacred

attired
instance),
and

shaved

animal

themselves
off their

the death

(the
in

cat,

Burial

hot

of

a

for

yellow garments
eyebrows. Their

by

clubs

those

member.
and

on

The
the

of
in

day

ful
wonder-

Egyptian monarchs, are
and
industryof
civilization
of
state
high
common

were

heavy

did not

who

the

their works.

Anglo-Saxons, and
on

spent

reverence

nation, whose

is attested to

ings.
anoint-

and

for the death

Pyramids,those

The

monuments

AN

as

child, and

lamentations.
memorials

baths

customary

one

corpse

body

was

attend
was

the

among

fines

were

inflicted

the funeral of

placed on

laid the book

a

of

a

bier,
the

THE

54

EVOLUTION

Gospels,a code of belief and
symbol of hope. A silken or

a

cross

linen

OF

as

mourning

a

pallwas

were

used, according
to

the

the

rank

dead

as
a
rule,though purpleand brown
occasionallysubstituted.
Chaucer, in
The
Knight's
Tale," speaks
"

of

of

son.
perclergy

The
bore

FASHION.

black

lighted

all

ped
drop-

with tears,"

and

tapers

clothes

"

and, again,

of

chanted

the

"

psalter,

the

habit of samite

was

mass

liberal
made

for

in

of

defines

of

widow's
HIRED

The

gown

is

evidently of

with black and
cloth,trimmed
fur; and a gauze veil of the same

present

day are a symbol.
mourning adopted by Katherine
Valois, wife of Henry V., the hero of
Agincourt,who
The

of

tint

From
the
envelops the head.
a
drawing of an Anglo-Saxon
of his wearing a
priestis given,on account
black dalmatic, edged with fur,a vestment
a
was
requiem mass
only adopted when
formed.
per-

died

source

Ages

black

was

used

Vin-

at

in 1422,

cennes

be

may

regarded
cal
typi-

the

as

widow's
dress

Middle

a

weeds

the

MOURNERS

woollen

the

to

year

the nun's dress,
which
the

the

mourning habit
of that period.

a

when
convent,
she
assumed

National

In

of

husband,

the wife retired

Library, Paris,
is givena sketch
which
clearly

same

death

her

9th

a

the

sombre

s

on

cases,

the

the

century MS.

black

c

w

In

many

offering

poor.
From

white

o

brown."

formed,
perand
a

to

id d

w

for

that

of

period. It

sisted
con-

of

black

a

brocade

hardi,

cote

with

edged
white

fur, and
embel-

further

with

glass
which

widow's
MOURNING

IN

SACKCLOTH.

dk

dress

valois,

of
in

queen
the

katherine
year

1

42

2

THE

for

ornamenting

the

Her

black

gown
Some

woollen

of white

fur.

COSTUMES

head

winged

BY

WORN

OF

EVOLUTION

dress.

Planche

tells

allowed

sixteen

KING

a

PHILIP

II.

OF

OF

Westminster

They

represented in

are

are

(or mourning

Liber

fourteen;

with

furred

a

viscount, twelve;
and

Hoods

of his son,
his
for

himself

funeral

the

of

the

At
Earl

others

attired
and

present

of

for

clothed

of

mourninge."
shall have
with

France,

of

himself
the

century, it was

considered

necessary
to

pass

mourning
owing

to

of

the
the

to

"

behynde,

of

They

and
with

The
a

is
queen
surcotte, with

the traynes

as

aforesaid,

playne hoode, and
a
tippet at the hoode
good length
lying a

tuary
sump-

laws,

in
nobility

men
wo-

and

in

gance
extrava-

wear

of

tyme

their surcottes

mantles

their

the

of

the

trayne before and

traynes.
end

fifteenth

England

a

another

Cyprus
in black

mourning.
At

the

in

"

apparell

estates

great

were

;
gowns
death
of

the

on

the

for
of

reformation

in black

John, King
the
King

ordinance

an

Flanders, all the nobles
and

mitted
per-

above

King Henry
the
VII., issued, in
eighth year of his reign,

hold
house-

in black.

those

of

mother

clothed
his

and

only

were

Richmond,

of

close

and

shaved,

same

duke.

a

degree of esquireof
king'shousehold.
Margaret, Countess

hearing

was

the

to

the

the death

baron, eight;

a

had

the

Gaston, sent
barber, ana

FUNERAL

privilege as

ermine.

Foix, on

earl,

an

all inferior persons,
two
archyards only; but an bishop

Earl
of

THE

AT

Froissart relates that the
of

marquises were
sloppes

their gowns,
and mantles;
cassocks)

knight,six ;

fabrics in the vailing
prefashion,and are

black

and

yards for

FATHER.

HIS

a

dukes

us

ATTENDANTS

HIS

AND

SPAIN

a
splendid
Regalis,"stillpreservedin
Abbey.
composed of
"

55

ing
deep bordermourning habits of

has

PROCESSION

this period
manuscript

FASHION.

gentleman's

MOURNING
HENRY

"

VII.

TIME

upon

the

trayne of the

mantell,being in breadth

inche.
the superfluous usage of
a
nayle and an
the
hood
to
of
cloth and
a
other items at funerals.
After the firstquarter
Habits
year,
with
furred
and liveries were
limited to certain quantities. be lined with black satin, or

ermine
a

all ladies down

; and

baroness, are

and

EVOLUTION

THE

56

to

be barbed

to

the chin."

at

barbe, and

trayne, hood,

with

to

similar

wear

OF

the

time
lasted for three days, by which
the
degree of
for a simple interment
were
niourninge, arrangements
Thesurcotte,
ently
completed, and the body was
placed reverin the ground. The obsequiesof kings
tippet,are

visible in the sketch

of

century, taken

Pietro Vercellio's famous

work

cloth and

of

the

all classes,and
royal rank.

over

a

a

waxen

funeral customs,
may
Crier, the lying-instate
the

of
effigies

waxen

Before

Crier, armed

for the Death
a

carried

were

ing
gentleman'smourn-

newspapers

published obituarynotices,it was
in

however,

queens,

protracted period, consequently

Death

of

attired

and

fur,is reproduced from

the obsolete

be mentioned

those

the sixteenth

MS.

contemporary

Among

lady of

a

The

costume.

on

of black
a

from

FASfffON.

black

with

with

customary
a

livery,painted

skulls

and

bell and
or

broidered
em-

cross-bones,

to

townspeople,and inhabitants
that another had gone
of surroundingvillages,
the majority. This functionarywas
to
over
announce

to

the

widow's

GERMAN

DRESS

figure was
prepared, which
regal robes, and substituted
soon

decomposition

as

in

was

Mary,

vogue
and
in

useful

as

till the

set

TO-DAY.

OF

the

in.

time

in

dressed

was

for

This

body

fashion

William

of

as

snd

Westminster

Abbey there is a
collection of waxen
which
be
effigies,
may
viewed
As likenesses
by permission of the Dean.
and
they are interesting,
they are also
Of
has

for the
FRENCH

LADY

OF

widow's

i6th

CENTURY

the

sex,

black

present

religiousemblems.

takes

insolvent,his

who

often

hat-band

widow

a

man

may

selves
them-

content

and

of dark-coloured

law, whether

employ of the Corporation,or civil
and on the death of a member
authorities,
of
the Royal Family,he was
usuallyaccompanied
by the Guild of Holy Souls, who walked in
procession,bearing lightedtapers and other

Lying-in-state
usually

a

the left sleeve
Scotch

in

male

with

IN

weeds.

studies.

costume

late years, in this country, mourning
been considerablymodified, particularly
another

on

clothes.
dies

claim

By

solvent
out

of

or

his

estate, sufficient for mourning suitable to
her rank, and the same
privilege
appliesto
each of her children,
who are old enough to be
at

their father's funeral.

precedence over

This

any debts the dead

right
man

THE

have

may

is

and

contracted,

accorded

not

English,

to

EVOLUTION

OF

distinction

a

Welsh,

widows.
In

colour

for

of

parts

the

mourning
globe

THE

brown,

and

custom

the

These

shades

following

reasons

gloom

have

which

are

of

in

yellow,

red,

have

prescribed

one

is

and

are

white

nearest

express

and

dearest
sorrow

are

mixed

body

for

the

symbolical
when

is

WIDOW

taken.
with

of

the

royal

the

forms

typical

of

the

earth

the
to

royal colour,

a

OF

TO-DAY.

mourning

the

for

for

used

DRESS

S

high dignitaries
also

Violet,

of

spirit

the
is

the

follows
tint

the

brown

and

returns.

used

which

hoped

Yellow

leaf,

generally

and

of

Church.

kings
Scarlet

ally.*
occasion-

mourning

of

those
*

who

the

it ii

flight.

autumn

which

light
Blue,

which

to

taken

dead

the

mourning.

ENGLISH

selected
is

"

surrounds

the

death.

been
Black

is

though

57

alone

of

CRIER.

garments

emblem

:

;

white,

DEATH

blue

even

as

black

countries

European

most

different

the

night

heavens,

accepted

by

white

and

Irish

or

FASHION.

Black

hope,

from
to

For

permission

Davey's
Messrs.

"

Jay,

to

History
Regent

some
reproduce
of Mourning,"

Street,

London.

of
I

the

drawings

am

indebted

Chapter
VII.

FXCENTRICITIES
OF

MASCULINE
COSTUME.

VII.

Chapter

"

fashion

The

out

wears

"

tattered

Through

small

gowns

hide

thy

'ANITY,

^v

clothes

furred

and

Robes

vain

as

how

by

few

of them

whether

the nobles

at

less
defence-

our

to

sider
con-

from

altogetherfree

that

from

exempt

or

of

love

dress

which

they
stronglycondemn

so

this

and

the

lime.

Their

respect,
sketches
the
trating
illus-

this chapter
only give a
what

becoming
manly form
In

epochs.

Celtes,"

toire des
BRITON

IN

CLAD

SKINS.

"the
ancient

inhabitants

toilet of

Britain,somewhat

of

that of the

North

body,

intended
used
means

for it

which

were

no

doubt

the
sembled
re-

Indian

American

of the present day, and consisted of
of elaborate paintingsover
the whole
of the

that

learn

we

a

surface

originally

mencies
skin, from the incleafterwards
of the weather, but were

as

of
was

forbidden

mode

a

embellishment

of

the
distinguishing
reserved
to

slaves.

and

of

and

they
armed

were

impleof

ents

bone

and

flint.

The

Tyrian tra
ders
taught
to

how

construct

various
weapons
from
war

of
a

composition

a

different classes,

copper
tm, and
their
flat

and

briton

at

the

of

time

roman

the

invasion.

wicker
shields

were

superseded by
with

the

Conquest

Roman

of

those

of metal

circles.

concentric

ornamented

After

Britain, the

laid aside for

skin

tunics and

dyed
garments were
the tunic was
Over
freemen, and strictly close trousers.
named
The lower classes conshort cloak, so
or
sagum,

to

the

the tone

of

series

protect the

to

charms

other

irresistible to

killed

them

His-

"

Pelautier's

remote

in the chase,

m

different

at

their

Our

ing
clothwas

with

sidered
con-

ate
appropriand

to

word,

ancient

mals
skins of ani-

of

the

an

by deepening
period),
naturallyruddy locks, by washing

their

of

with

for

to

from

doubtless

some

been

added

also
were

remark

Britain,were

painted.
signifies

in

faint idea of

of

decorations,hence
pictorial

derived

boiled

chosen

has

name,

water

purpose
will

their

them

anomalies

in

their

costume

reveal

curious

for

as

upon

Picts,who

The

belles of that

requirea deep
tory
study of the histo

the north

able

(which

looked

be

this may

family arms."

inhabited

ancestors

not

of

a

with

picti^which

It does

in others.

at

other; but

each

from

the

had

persons

and
costume,
the originof

yet

:

moment

a

"As

masters

designs drawn

small

to

distance

privilegeof ornamenting
large figures,chiefly of
their
to
animals, subsequently transferred
shields, after they adopted a less scanty
their

similar

and

and

for

are

weakness

this human

appear,
King Lear.

woman,"

is

hurled

pause

considerable

"

woman,"

they

Nothing.

vices do

teachers

our

about

all."

name

a

are
epithets,

heads

Ado

Mtuh

fined themselves

the man."

apparel than

more

"

COSTUME.

MASCULINE

OF

ECCENTRICITIES

6i

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

worn

by

a

the

THE

62

from

Romans

which
head

saicya word
skin

signifieda

it

covered

was

British

or

Celtic

of

hide.

with

was

EVOLUTION

a

origin, tomb

When

the

from

cap,

FAS

OF

HID

.

and

golden apples

pearls." From

with

the

"embroidered

Ironside,was

of Edmund

with the likeness of

this,we

see

mented
orna-

that

its circular
the needle
hut, which, from
played an important part in the
and to it we
of clothing,
also
resembled, for the dwelling- ornamentation
shape,it somewhat

cab,

a

the splendid Bayeux tapestry, worked
the Conqueror.
by Matilda, wife of William
able
This
pricelesscuriosityis not only remarkas
a magnificentpiece of workmanship,
but affords a good idea of the dress of that
period the nth century. A tunic reaching
the ankle, leg bandages and
to
shoes, a
the chief
flowing mantle and flat cap, were

placeswere
composed of wattles firmlyfixed
in the ground and
fastened
togetherat the

owe

"

of the civil dress

characteristics

succeeding reigns.

of this and

Normans,

however,

clean-shaven.

were

During
in
Handsome
several
Men

the Middle
both
furs

Ages extravagance
female

vailed
pre-

male

and

were

in great request, and

costume.

times

wore

dress, the

laws
were
passed.
sumptuary
eight indispensable articles of
shirt,breeches, stockings,shoes,

coat, surcoat
dress.
The

or

with
was

The

cotehardie,mantle, and
coat

the tunic

entirelyhidden,

under-dress

or

of

the

with

the

head
sponded
corre-

ancients,and

exceptionof

CANUTE.

top.

A

curious

horn-like

cap

children.

hair

The

flowing.
allowed

of this fashion is the

remnant

still made

of rushes
of rank

Men

the

by Welsh
usually long and

was

moustache

shaved
to

the chin
to

grow

and

ordinary
extra-

an

length.
The

and

Saxons

Danes

spoken of as
fine linen,"
and the latter combed
their hair once
a day,
bathed
once
a week, and
frequentlychanged
their clothing. By these means
they found
wearers

favour

"

of

are

scarlet,purple,and

in the

eyes
wives

the

of

the

and

and

women,

daughters

of

lighted
dethe

nobility. In a curious MS., written in the
is reprereignof King Canute, the monarch
sented
in
with

cords

tunic

a

and

stockings are

and

The

embroidered,

he

ordered

to

be

NORMAN,

FROM

BAYEUX

TAPESTRY.

tops
but

of

he

his

wears

the sleeves,by the surcoat.
There
two
were
kinds of mantles, one
open in the front,the
sides connected
two
by a strap restingon the

A vestment
simple leather shoes.
presented
to
of silk, chest,the
by Canute
Croyland Abbey was
with golden eagles,and the rich
embroidered
and
had

pallwhich

THE

embellished

mantle

tassels.

WILLIAM

laid

over

the

shoulder.

other
one

Head

was

end

on
open
thrown

the
over

coveringswere

rightside
the

left

of various

THE

descriptions
; but
long points,which
to

the belt when

adopted

many

used

were

to

hoods

with
them

attach

The assembling
use.
II.
reign of Richard
and
lay, spiritual,
legal peers in

gives the

in

not

of Parhament

in

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

the

which

by

all classes.

them

as

the

be

could
folds.

Some

usual
costumes,
is reproduced from
"
Planche's
History of

feet,others
slits. Hose

British Costume."

these

Bishops

coifs

Westmorland

in front.

Duke

the

of

in

graphic
apparel of

his

dyer,

and

are

tapestry

worker,

the

wealthy burghers

seated

the

City

of

II.,

clothed

which

lasted

over

(1377

to

attire.

The

shoes, chained
not
knee, were

deep, wide

the

temporaries.
con-

of

London,
in

and
all

of the
were

and
livery,

a

twenty

the

1399),

knives, pouches, and
ornamented
were
girdles
with silver. The clergy

curious
many
in
masculine

were

fashions

GENTLEMAN

peaked
more

sleeves

14TH

OF

THE

were

CENTURY.

handles

not

the

to

other
bury
Canter-

haberdasher, carpenter,

reign
years
there

"

"The

opposite
judges.
During
Richard

the

manner

weaver,

peers

and

mottoes
wrote

towards

Hereford, in high cap, is
to the left of the throne,
and
Exeter, Salisbury,
other

also in favour, and
the edges

were

Richard's

of

reign, describes
most

full of
they were
of different colours.

with

"

Tales

stand

The

suits

Chaucer, who

end

the

and

Northumberland

often

were

frequentlyscallopedat

devices.

Earls

in their
away
reached
to the

and

the knee, and

to

were

and

robes, the

furred

hidden

wide

embroidered

and

cowls

a
bagpipe and were
Many writers refer to
whatever
as
receptacles,

was

were

Parti-coloured

throne, the

in

judges
of

in

are

the

devil's

stolen

and

The

like

shaped

were

worn

their

near

63

of

to

be

from
ridiculous

commonly

than

called

the

and rode
laity,
pokeys, gold,in gowns

on

their

A

CAPUCHON

HOOD,

OR

TIME

tinguished
dis-

OF

EDWARD

the

II.

with
horseback, glittering

of scarlet and
cut

green, fine with
work.
Their

mitres embellished
with pearlslike the
head of a queen,
and

staffs of

cious
pre-

metals
with

set

jewels."
the
parish

Even

clerk is said to be
"

and

spruce

pish
fop-

in his dress."

The

author

of

called

an

work

anonymous

the

"

Eulo-

gium,"of this date,
says

"The

:
"

moners
com-

sotted
be-

were

in

Some

apparel.
in

wide

reaching
loins, some
PARLIAMENT

ASSEMBLED

IN

THE

REIGN

OF

RICHARP

IL

garment

of

excess

surcoats
to

their
in

a

reaching

THE

64
to

their heels,closed

at

the sides, so

men

hke

seem

before

that at

name

and

Their

the end

Towards

hoods

chins.

the

pipes (tippets)pass round
before,reach
hanging down

heels."

dress ; in fact,our
and
feminine

modern
certain

extent

times.

Then,
men

now,

those

during

worn

to

were

the

modern

frock coat
was

a

is the
of

sort

jacket

of

Yeomen

the

Guard

stationed

a

mediaeval

of

as

sovereign.

with

the dress
Bluecoat
at

that

back,

the

and

and

The

blue

paid
tention
at-

of

adornment
their

for

responsible
gent
strin-

The

calculated

of

our

COSTUME

OF

REIGN

THE

Felt

manufacturers.
oldest industries

hat-making

"

to

OF

from

one

"

into

introduced

was

"

A
Spain and Holland.
given to this branch of
passed in 157 1 which enjoined

country from
great impetus was
trade
every
wear

by

a

law

person
on

above

Sundays

wool, knit made,

England by

coats

were

HENRY

use.

badges

the age
or

of

thickened, and
of

the

forfeiture of

seven

holidays a
trade

years
of

cap

dressed
of

in

cappers,

farthingsfor

this

placed
instead
breast

on

of
of

time; they were
the

firemen

made

sleeve,in the

being embroidered

on

jackets

of

VII

in

were

and
date

of metal

i6th
on

and

century,

the back

or

the garment as they had been
viously.
preRetainers in the households
of the

wealthy, were

provided

with

surcoats

and

of their patron's
year,
favourite colour, and
this was
called the
tribute.
to dislivree,from a French word signifying
mantles

twice

a

of the
Trade
guilds and members
also adopted a distinct
day's neglect." In 1603 the felt learned professions,
became
makers
a
Corporation with grants styleof costume.
nally
origiLawyers, who were
the
of
the tonsure; but
and
course
wore
privileges.
priests,
Throughout
many
the
Middle
Ages the upper classes frequently when
clergy ceased to interfere with
secular
affairs the lay lawyer continued
this
engaged in commerce.
Bishops,abbots, and
coif. Th^ir
and
also wore
a
nobles personallysuperintendedthe disposal signof office,

under
every

the

some

VI.
when

watermen

this

zens
citi-

Mary,

the

encourage

home

London

common

ments
legalenact-

to

of

also

persons,

were

the

habitually used
by
apprentices
and servingmen,
yellow stockings

the

to

and

and

Tudor

considerable

have

of

Edward

of

boots.

monarchs

pital
Hos-

during the reign

closely-fitting
shoes

In

the

Boys

we

skull cap,
slungbehind

the

of

Christ's

worn

a

and

the

at

gives us the military
of the Tudor
costume
period. It is the
oldest corps in her
Majesty's service,and
instituted by Henry VII. as the bodywas
guard

tight sleeves,

over

or

London,

of

Tower

felt hats also with

feathers,

of

rate
degene-

wore

overcoats

siderable
con-

with skirts,
a
occasionally
style
with Holbein's
associated especially,
portraits
and his contemporaries.
of Henry VHI,
uniform
The
at the present day by
worn

and

resemble

"

a

of
sons
younger
the leadingtraders of the

descendant,

present fashions

masculine

"

ancient

estates,and

the

jerkinmade

the 14th century men
clothes made
to fit the

between

of

15 th and 1 6th centuries.
The "frocke"
mentioned, and
frequently
which

of

difference

the

families

good

are

short
began to wear
so
body
closely that it often required the
assistance of two
them,
people to remove
it is from
this period we
and
can
distinctly the
trace

of their

produce
number

neck, and

the

to

of the

lirri-

Their

the

FASHION.

OF

stickingout
they make
they call by

this

gowne.

tied under

and
little,

and
back

the

women,

the ridiculous

EVOLUTION

three

THE

EVOLUTION

were
capacious and lined with
gowns
and the Justicesof the King's Bench

liveries

allowed
silk.

Budge,

miniver

by

the

of

cloth

fur:
and

trimming thereof,

reference

"

Nothing

was

the

green prevailed.
courtiers of Elizabeth

trunk

"

the

quiltedand

frock

hose, slashed
in the most

extravagant
these

were

e

cote"

stuffed doublets
and

for

and

other

close

known

they

became

of

to

construct

Parliament

in

allowed
TIME

SURREY,

OF

EARL

HENRY

VIII.

sary
neces-

the

of

Rouses

ordinary fixed

and

those

trimmed

which

referred

appear
the envy

had

they

era, and

waists which

excite

would

of the belles of the latter part of the
In fact, the gallantsof that

19th century.

day

were

their

love

in advance

even

of

fantastic

of the fair sex, in
costume

:

and

as

over

which

dress

was

Boot

of

Charles

I. and

embroidered

The

of both

shirt
sexes,

and

appliedto
and

the

the

the
half-

to

the
laced.

hose

made

to

were

with lace.

stomacher

necks

were

II.,

shirt

the

others
upright,

drawingsof

the

lace encircled

of the Elizabethan

their

the

ruffs of muslin
to have

now

lie flat upon
in
shoulders, as shown

under-garment

of dandies

and

those

"

that stood

of those wearing
seats, for the accommodation
this singulararticle of attire. Enormous
and

linen

of

rive
dethe modern
word bandbox.
There were
three kinds
some

such

swings in
place of the

made

by the clergy took
and
from which we
origin,

OF

size that it was

enormous

dress

is made

used

as

wool, bran, and other materials.
last

of

ruff,which is too well
need
description
; to

cambric, from which

though they
all of one
were
piece." Trunk
hose were
appropriately
named,
often
filled with
as
they were
At

articles

to

bafides

birds, beasts,
devices, "sewed
up

thereto

attire."

Reference

worn.

the

to

Below

with
and

period :
England

years

various

then

mented
orna-

broidered
stockingsem-

worn

few

the

and

quaint

manner.

in

since, behind
ancient panellingat Hadsome
don
covered
disHall, Derbyshire,was
a
washing bill (with
other
things appertaining to
the i6th and
17th centuries)
which
gives us a good idea of

long time
discarded

of the

constant

inconstancyof

A

have varied
to
appears
different reigns,but for a

The

Chro7iicle,
justlystates
fashions

more

than

colour
in

The

the

to

for the

and

65

in
Hollingshead,
in

were

lambskin, and

or

provided

were

King,

FASHION.

OF

were

variety

a

materials,and
occasionally

of
were

called

nether

stocks ; socks
sometimes
them

over

put
and

;

of Holland

tops were
linen
and

were

or

lace,

formed

the

liningof

the

full

hanging

boots

of

the Cavaliers.

During
Civil
dress
of

the
CHARLES

War

L

the

by the King'sadherents,consisted

worn

doublet

of silk or satin with loose sleeves,
the front; the collar was
generally
of point lace,and a short cloak rested carelessly
shoulder.
The hat was
on
one
a broada

slashed

COURTIER

IN

THE

REIGN

OF

ELIZABETH.

brimmed

up

beaver

with

a

plume

of feathers,
F

66

THE

trunk

hose

Roundheads

or

and

gave

to

way

breeches.

CHARLES

AND

II.

HIS

QUEEN

WILLIAM

FASHION.

mistresses."

The

Republican Party went
opposite extreme.
They cut their

the

OF

EVOLUTION

to

hair

III.

ways, but
Beaumont

(1694)

The

beard

close, avoided

and

Fletcher,in their

usual

GENTLEMAN

with

hat

a

and

suits of

somewhat

plain

jewels,had

a

or

grey

brown

resemblingthe

Corinth,"call

tint, moustache
Which

this

period

waistcoat, which
was
high at the neck, and
made

with

Brussels

sleeves.
cravats

and

Flanders

tied in

were

chin,

the
ends.

a

and

of

the
of

17 th

as

adorn

on

two-fold

doth

was

also

it was

dyed

of

often

face,and

of

to

by writing a letter
bridge
Universityof Camforbidding the

the

members

"

not

the

King's

proved

1830.

heed

ridiculed by
bitterly
"

I know

many

It
their

the

effect
had

censure

of
gear
colattendingthe leges,

to

the fashion

-

it is

that

and
perukes in public,

combs
in

was

read

History

head

the

but
DRESS,

or

relate what

does

students

WALKING

periwigs,

wear

sermons.

upon

old

satirical writers.

to

tobacco,

their

had

that

his disfavour

II. showed

smoke

gentlemen,"says Middleton, in one of
plays, who wear
longer hair than their

young

preposterous

so

former

were

tells us,
different

Everyone tried to rival
neighbour in the size
came
his peruke, till they be-

Charles

with

an

courtier."

the enamoured

express

Shakespeare

his

also

of

a

colours.

Patches

the

custom,

numerous

his

Roman

And

cut

political
significance
according
where
they were
placed
the

The

tume
cos-

end

were

fashion,a revival

to

the

square

II.

perukes
adopted, and
Roman

of

lace ruffles,
such
the nether limbs

Charles

of

hear

ot
beard, consisting

T

century consisted

and

i8tH

OF

"His
beard,
put i' the form of a T,
T ; your T beard is the fashion,

peculiar

breeches
petticoat

drooping

of

he

now

under

the

Queen

"

lace

masculine

towards

what

was

''

imperial:

of

knot
had

Another

feature

also

we

the

cloths
Neck-

and

LADY

AND

and

modern

chimney pot.
About

shape

CENTURY.

lace

cloth

or

in different

worn

most

(1662).
linen

was

the

his
for

absolutely
they paid no
latter
men

to

mands.
com-

comb

curiously-chased

carried
were
tortoise-shell,
pocket with the snuff-box, another

of bone

and

EVOLUTION

THE

appendage
indispensable
In
were

the

1

turned

8th
up

of

century the
at

broad

fine

man.
gentle-

hat

brims

sides,and, in the
"

racy

gallantcocked
his hat accordingto his fancy." Shoe buckles
became
generalin the reignof Queen Anne,
and
displaced the ribbon rosettes
formerly
Planche
worn.
accurately describes the
fashions of that day. "The
square-cut coat
vernacular

of the

the

a

OF

day,

each

FASHION.

67

have only to cast our
We
the
eyes down
vista of ages to find that British costume
has
been suited to the needs, habits,and customs
of the

people,and
Skins

worn.

the

hardy

periods at

of animals

cave

dwellers

which

it

was

approptiateto

were

who

inhabited

this

the world's
early period m
history. The
simple dress of the AngloSaxons
fulfilledthe requirementsof a primitive

country

race

at

;

an

and

the

furs

and

rich

fabrics

brought home by the Crusaders were
adapted
waistcoat with pockets almost
the long-flapped
of civilization which
to the higher state
vailed
prein the Middle
the stockings.There were
met
Ages. In the i6th
hangingcuffs
with lace ruffles,
(of art and culture)
square-toedshoes with red
century the Renaissance
heels, and hats laced with gold or silver was
speciallynoted for richness of attire.
galloon."
During the i8th century a mixture of styles
which
At the beginning of the 19th century many
had
found
favour
with
previous
the most
marked
feature in
important changes took place. Excepting generationswas
the costume
for Couit
substituted
of that period, and this equally
for
dress, cloth was
velvet and other rich fabrics. The coat was
appliesto the two firstdecades of the present
Masculine
attire at the present day,
elaborate
shirt-front, one.
displayingan
open,
stock and flowered waistcoat ; and the skirt, though simple and practical,
has few points
of
it.
beauty to recommend
though full,fell in natural folds. Trousers
Briefly,it
resolves
itself into a
series of
and held in place by a strap
woollen
were
very tight,
beneath the foot,and hats displayednarrow
cylinderswhich changeth not from generation
curved brims.
to generation.
was

stiffened with

wires

and

buckram,

and

Y

2

Chapter

VIII.

^

A

CHAT
ABOUT

CHILDREN

THEIR
AND

CLOTHING.

The

"

As

fashioned

was

by the

or

in

Saviour

or

from

the

by

which

we

girdedwith

a

vital organs

the

worn

in

tunic and
been

have

mented,
orna-

off,so

are

linen

or

givea

shoulders

habits

the

and

effect.

protected the feet.
Egyptian labouring classes

head

a

in

Hats

except by the poor
fold of the toga or

servingfor

covering,and
allowed

their children to be nude,
infants were
and
familiar
unwith
and

man
a

the

the

On

loose
with

the neck
her

reaching to

but in cold weather

girdle,

fastened

stringsat

mer,
sum-

simply

and

girl a

the

tunic

had

boy

loin cloth

and

swaddling
working

The

clothes.

to

people,it
probably the only
used

rounded

corners

sandals

of the

garment

the
Boys wore
supposed to

semicircular

confined

chmate

the

body.

the latter is

mantle
The

over

fabric covered

reaching

vest

chiton

of the

commonly worn,
on
a
journey,a

when

girdle

cord, at others of

a

oblong, with
to

as

not

were

of the

toga, and

ing
girdle. Consider-

a

was

less

or

it,

of

over

The

by drawingthe

thickness

double

and

rightarm

forearm.

consisted

bands, and

a

the
or

appears
close
a

loins,and

the

metal

country

"Samuel,"

clothes.

been

have

sometimes

rule,

CLOTHING.

under

left shoulder

have

enlightenus
the authorityof
On
infancywas wrapped

"

robe

lines to that

more

was

told, being a child,was
to

a

their station in life.

customs.

our

swaddhng

ephod,"

we

as

the

biblical references

two

Eastern

St. Luke,

times

of the

women

they lived,and
according to

One
to

similar

on

and

men

which

in

"

that their raiment

be concluded

it may

Milton.

day."

details,and,

singularlyfew

THEIR

body, passed

the man,

the

shows

children's dress in olden

OF

as

shows

childhood

morning

AND

CHILDREN

ABOUT

CHAT

71

VIII.

Chapter
A

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

other

children

hand,

the

of

and
feet.

supplemented, we
by the little
presume,
his mother
coat
bought

classes in Egypt were
of their elders
repetitions

him

from

on

when

she

was

year to year,
her husband
and
to

came

was

sex

are

and

Roman

OF

CHARLES

skirt

his

youth

child of his old

children

of

as

the

a

gentler

the chiton, or
with a shawl

times

this garment was
to
taught
carefully
put on
education.
of
The long end
as
a
girl's
part
firstthrown
the left shoulder.
The
was
over

the

folds

across

the

The

male

tume
cos-

loin cloth,and a full robe
with short sleeves,or a tunic,and both sexes
curled or plaited
had elaborately
wigs,as the
hair was
natural
only allowed to grow in
consisted

loose classical gown, combined
himation
or
weighted at the four corners, so
in adjustingit. How
to assist the wearer
as

arranged in

a

this

long sleeves.

robe with

mark

with

the shoulders, and
loose transparent
a

from
over

the

broidered
em-

colours

brightsash,or suspended

{After a painting by Vandyck.)

usuallyrepresentedin

front part was

L

Girls

scale.

linen

fastened

and
CHILDREN

also

presented to Joseph in
of Jacob's affection for
age.
Greek

a

in

at Shisacrifice,
loh, where Eli,the High
Priest,lived. A coat of

many

small

offer the

annual

colours

a

wore

upper

of

a

mourning.
occupationof
impress for a long periodon
of

The

Anglo-Saxon

banded

tunic

industrial
and

Britain

Roman

the

was

classes

The

race.

usual

through

leg bandagesand

cross

left its
of

the costume

the

long-sleeved
habit

Middle

of

the

Ages

preceded
gartering

THE

72

breeches.

boys
and

EVOLUTION

OF

FASHION.

the

Quite

young
this dress,
little girlsare seen
in
in

appear

ancient

in the

MSS.

country

kirtle

and

and

gunna, the equivalents
of the modern
and
petticoat

and

dress.

the

Their

was

often the

so

adult
the

in

ladies of

the

in

articles

Several

derived

were

into

The

art

of

tanning skins

with

the

wool

was

also

age

a

cradles

were

the

on,

first few

clothing was

in great request,

a

bandage.

ianship
guard-

husband's

usually

children,
used, and for

own

their

months
swathed
In

this

they

were

more

ly
easi-

carried,
though

a

cha-

racteristic
of

the

con-

strain

people.

The

to

which

most

skilful artificers

they
jected,
sub-

were

were

r

bably
pro-

in the

found

elig

vented
prethat

i ous

houses, but
under

free

deve-

lopme
of

each

"

landowner

the

serfs

which

were

trained
the

in

worn

mecha-

nical

tial
essen-

so

and

the

but
wealthy,

we

der
consi-

to

was

by

limbs,

now

arts.

Silk

with
pact
com-

form

lours
co-

natural

the

of age

the

rude

is

their

until the

Mothers

their

the

child.

of

the

nursed

sum

under

care, but

relations.

love of

gaudy

the

a

to

the

bereft

of

hose.

hair

of

subject to

were

practised, and

dyeingwas
a

or

receive

eldest child became

up his
shoes, ankle

leathern

for in

mother's

the

leathers,and

to

was

father,remained

dress

the

6s.

the second;
30s. for the third year;
afterward
the
foster

worked

who

tanner,
leather

of

from

allowed
12s.

appearance
Children

labours.

such

fosteringa foundling

varying according

pate
partici-

to

was

State

parent

were

law

repression.

For

and

spinning,
sewing, and
highest rank

disdain

not

regarded
a

its

for

as

Christianity

of

the

and

in
and

occurred, but

first year;

industry.

servants

women

employed
weaving,
did

rials
mate-

the produce

of household
The

passed

clothingwere

extent

great

a

Anglo-Saxons

increased, it was
a
crime, and

of

means

The

the

their pagan
ancestors
desertion
of children

as

as

with

case

females, by
head-rail.
used

to

concealed,

not

was

woollen.

the influence

dressed
naturally,or was
with
two
pendant plaits,
and

cotton, linen,

were

sometimes

fall

to

this

in

apparel

Among

ever,
hair, how-

allowed

was

materials for

common

wearing

health

beauty.

If very poor,
CHILDREN

S

COSTUME,

PRESENT

DAY,

the

father

EVOLUTION

THE

allowed

was
seven

to

sell his

providing

years,

child

was

could

give evidence.

into
consent
ten

one

Until

age, her

fifteen years of

slaveryfor

son

the

obtained, and

OF

side

the

the

years

old

girls niay be

could

marry

7?,

stockings,and

of

daughter was

a

father

FASHION.

in
effigies,

mothers,

small

a

of the

in

round

head.

found

full

various

on

which

cap
dress

The

they

placed on
little

of

monumental
their

like

appear

skirts,sometimes

distended

fardingale,the body imprisoned in
ruff encircUng
to the hips,a folded
the neck, and
their stockings(accordingto
of the finest yarn, silk,
thread,
Stubbs)were
cloth
that
could
or
possibly be had, of
changeable colours, cunningly knit, with
curiously indented
points,clocks, and open
by

a

whalebone

The

seams.

white

shoes

and

black, green,

of

were

yellow velvet,

of

or

leather

C^

pleased, but afterwards had no
A boy of fifteen could enter
so.
power
life if so disposed,and a girlat
the monastic
later period. Monasteries
offered
a somewhat
then
the best education
procurable,and the
directed
teach
to
clergy were
youth with
her

he

as

to

do

"

and

care,

to

draw

Schoolboys appear
order, by the dread

of

to

have

to

some

been

craft."

kept

in

personalchastisement,

great respect and

and

by

them

reverence

was

exacted

their elders.
In

the

dress

stitched with silk and
of

the

(Christ'sHospital),we

Blue-coat

School

the
see
ordinary
boys of the Tudor
period. It
consisted of a long coat reachingto the heels
and
knee-breeches, a striped vest, yellow
costume

of

and

silver all

The
before

embroidered

with

gold

the foot."

of Vandyck bringgraphically
paintings
us

the

of the Stuart
and

over

picturesqueelements
era.

refinement

There
about

the

of the dress

is an

air of richness

long

skirted

silken

THE

74

frocks

embellished

universallyworn,
which, by
remodelled
At
were

no

the

a

with

beaver

collars,and

turn

OF

EVOLUTION

pointed
feathers
trailing
quaint lace caps,

lace, the

hats with
and

the

been

of fashion's wheel, have

for the children

period in
stylesso

the

to-day.
history of costume
to

those

leathern

belts,show to greater advantage.
Queen Victoria inaugurateda new
system of
clothingfor boys,when she dressed the young
Princes
wardrobes

of

offensive

FASHION.

in Scotch
of

extended

with

a

outdoor

and

sailor suits,and the
been considerably

all classes have
of

late,by the open-airlife and

sports in which

every

self-respecting

lad

ball,
indulges. Cricket, tennis,boating,footand
demand
cycling,all imperatively
tailors now
appropriate apparel, and
give
reasonable
attention to this important branch
of their business, and
provide fabrics and
designs suited to the needs of the rising
generation.
Habits
of personal cleanliness
and
the
influence of dress on
the minds
of growing

true

conception

of

colour

and

the first half of the nineteenth
have

only to

turn

and

contemporary

and

arms,

to

the

form

sketches

artists to

than

century.
of

find bare

in

We

Leech
necks

conspicuous underwear, very short
skirts distended
by a stiffened petticoator
white
cotton
crinoline,
stockings,low shoes
fastened
room
by a strap and singlebutton, mushhats, aprons and pinaforesdevoid of
girls is hardly realized except by those
elegance and grace, and the hair cut close
in
in education.
stiff
of
to the head
or
rows
Many a
arranged
lets. directlyconcerned
ringdid
has been
Nor
the
sensitive child's character
warped
boys of England, in
buttoned
trousers
high on short jackets,or
by the thoughtless jeers of schoolfellows,
with tunics

worn

with frilled linen collars and

who

were

that
quickto perceive

her

clothing

THE

up-to-date or of
good material as their

not

was

such

On

own.

other hand,
and uncharit-

the

vanity,envy,
ableness

have

been

dered
engen-

foolish

by

mothers,

have
who
provided their
daughters with inappropriate
and

extravagant outfits.

Though

OF

FASHION.

75
at

my

to

distinctive

before

the

of
examples
clothingwhich
form, lightof
which
the

enabled

I am
disposal,

put

in

reader

children's
artisticin

are

and

texture,

impede
physical development.
no

way

who

Those

have

of

children

is

imposed

what

advocate

many
with

uniforms

EVOLUTION

the

should
sacred

a

charge

them, and

upon

their

care

ber
remem-

trimmingsfor girls'
colleges,

that

there

the
mainly depends, upon
in which
manner
they are
clothed during the firstfew

drawbacks

are

scheme

being

Such

a

all desire to
choice
to the

applied
clothing,and

see

of

leave

Children

trained
their

original

select and

to

clothes

to

be

must

the

wear

best

advantage,and it is follyto
think that they will do so
by intuition. Some
may
artistic
an
possess naturally
and

sense

keen

a

colour, but

they

the

in

eye
are

for
tainly
cer-

and
minority,

future

health

must
years of life. There
be no tightbands, belts,or

garters

it would

field for

no

ideas.

bably
pro-

ality
individu-

destroythe
we

the

adopted.
would

course

which

to

and

to

tion
circula-

prevent
to

organic

cause

troubles; and

where

corsets

dispensed with, as happily
they are in many cases
where
growing girls are
concerned, the weight of
the clothingshould be borne
by the shoulders, not the
waist,and this is ensured by
cutting undergarments in
the princessor combination
forms.
Many young people
are

rational

dress

suffer from

reformers

have

beingcarelessly

ble
sensi-

pushed

ideas to the
ity,
verge of absurdtillnow
the
is almost

name

regarded

as

of

term

a
proach.
re-

shod,

and

hideous

formations
mal-

the

feet

arise

in

c

of

o

How

much

neers
pio-

to

owe

of

dren's
chil-

dress

form,
re-

and

especially
to Messrs.

Liberty,
evolved
is

who
what

s

di-

as

aesthetic

the

brain

can

sometimes

be

traced to

heavy
head-gear,
and
of
Hats
of

the

strain

over-study.
should

light
a

ful
grate-

shade

style
From

the

sketch

teously
cour-

that

placed

be
struction,
con-

and
afford

in dress.
e-

the

of

generally

known

e-

while

seases

we

n

quence,
obscure

eyes,

to

if

ing
far-reachailment

of

THE

76

short

civilisation,
combatted

paid

;

down
the

look

the

not

after

of

care

a

of

person
to

of

with

to

notion

who

trusted
en-

who
of

how
fill

must

acquaint

at

body

undertake
themselves

education

mysteries

includes

healthy

any

Is

?

rudiments
to

it

least

The

ignorance

appalling;

disgrace.

have

music,

the

the

simplest
of
the

in

this

of

the

a

maid
nurse-

board
her

of

country

with

the

rarely
the

on

in

and,

;

of

rate

is

the

or

curriculum
instruction

high

school

Euclid,

children

the

human

average

acquainted
Book

training

the

though

First

the
of

of

of

and

may

of

knowledge

functions

and

consequence,

mortality

elementary

an

construction

is
to

infant

indignation.
those

expect

children

a

FASHION.

beating

woman,

young

body,

fragile

in

seen

sun

tender

its

with
be

must

oblivious

nurse

a

glimmering

unreasonable

charge

the
of

sight

the

right-minded

the

and

The

hot

a

OF

successfully

be

often

may
with

them,

upon
fact.
to

has

who

thoroughfares

be

to

attention

special

infants,

to

public

is

sight,

and

EVOLUTION

a

infant
national

IX,

Chapter

FANCY

COSTUME

OF

VARIOUS

PERIODS.

THE

EVOLUTION

OF

Chapter
FANCY
"

The
Here

COSTUME

Tumultuous

grandeur crowds the blazingsquare.
chariots clash, the torches glare."
rattling

The

79

IX.
PERIODS.

VARIOUS

OF

dome, where pleasureholds her midnight reign,
richlydecked, admits the gorgeous train ;

FASHION.

The

reversed.

were

represent the Pope;

churl

elected

was

the buffoon

the lowest of the mob

cardinal; and

to

made

was

a

assumed

for the time being the garb of the priesthood,
occupation of
and took possessionof churches, where
they
Britain, many
pastimes, parodied every part of the sacred service,
sports and
with their appropriatecostumes,
were
and sang masses
composed of obscene songs.

the

DURING
introduced

into

Roman

this country from

Southern

Dramatic

were
representations

tainted

so

Europe and the East, and at a very early by the grossness and licentiousness of the
were
period mummings
popular with the
ing
were
prohibitedfrom attendage, that priests
primitivemasquerades,
people. These were
them, tillthe Church introduced religious
the actors, if we
where
judge from
on
may
scripturalincidents, and
plays,founded
antique illuminations, generally mimicked
miracles and mysteries.
which were
known
as
the brute creation rather than human
beings. For these' the actors
trained
were
by the
at
They often appeared between the courses
vestments
clergy,and sacred edifices and
borate were
elabanquets, and on important occasions
to give truth
placed at their disposal,
pageants were
arranged. Ships filled and lustre to the representations.
with mariners

sometimes

were

garrisonedwith
portrayed some

towers
actors

armed

introduced, or
men,

while the

lesson
allegorical

There
Norman

after the

frequenttournaments

were

these

Invasion, and

patronized

were

Coeur de Lion.
encouraged by Richard
this era theyoccupied a prominentplace
A well-known
event
connected
intimately
in the national institutions and history,
and
with masking was
the narrow
afforded many
escape from
opportunitiesfor the display
death
by fire of Charles VI, of France, on
Ladies
of
these
on
picturesque costume.
The
January 29th, 1392.
king,with eleven
and
sometimes
occasions
were
conspicuous,
of his knights,for the amusement
of the
in parti-colouredtunics
with
rode
short
Court, dressed like savages, in tight-fitting
and
their
hoods
tippets wrapped about
of linen
covered
with
garments
flax, and
Their girdles were
decorated
with
heads.
were
dancing before the Queen and the
and they carried small swords.
gold and silver,
or

historical incident.

Duchess
with

a

de

costume

the

The

Duchess

King by wrapping him

vagrants

III. issued
who
in low

such

persons
London.
The

the

most

d'Orleans

died
an

exhibited

mable
inflamchained

protected the

in the

mantle, but four persons
Edward

Due

accidentally
ignited the
of a masker, who was

four others.

to

From

Berri,when

torch

train of her

in great agony.

ordinance

against

scandalous

querades
mas-

and
directed
ale-houses,
should
be whipped
out

Feast

singularof

and

of Fools
these

that
of

one

of

exhibitions.

It

was

The

space
surrounded

marked

out

for the

by raised seats for
and the judges of
dames, princes,
helmets, emblazoned
the

high

trappingsof

on

their

was
-

born

the conflict.

their ladies' colours

Knights wore
on

combat

their

on

their

clothing,and
horses; and throngs

of troubadours, heralds,and minstrels dressed
in gorgeous
attire,were
present to discharge
their duties,and

to

give importance

to

the

spectacle.
The

ancient
with

English Morris

other

Dance, performed

quaint usages on the ist
somewhat
resembled
the Roman
Saturnalia, of May, is supposed to be of Moorish origin.
and was
enacted at Christmas.
In England
It is depicted on
an
antique stained glass
the celebration
of this festival does
not
window
at
Betley, in Staffordshire. The
with the same
appear to have been attended
with
the Man
the
May-pole and
Hobby
excesses
as
were
commonly practisedon the
Horse
Moorish
a
(who represents
King, and
Continent, but it was
nevertheless a season
is the consort
of the May Queen), occupy
a
of licence, in which
order
and
other characters
discipline prominent position. The

8o

THE

Fool, the

the

are

Lesser

Piper, a Spaniard, the
or
gentleman, a Churl
Queen,

Nobleman,

a

dresses

the

sound
fore

second

bell, the

bell, the

the great bell.
Planche, in his valuable

The

Almack's

treble, the

work, the

"

paedia
Cyclo-

a

MS.

of the

fifteenth century, in the Ambrosian
Library
Milan, and he gives a reproductionfrom
old

wood

paintingon

a
representing

dance

of Burgundy.
lighted
long
taper, and
Court

sixteenth

century,

Five

o'clock

fashionable

century, and
eleven

At

the

was

three
p.m.

breakfast
House

Each

at

In

Gibbon

and

tions
men-

rival establishment,

a

was

the

for those
was

supper
from

of lower

priestlycowl) was
used

in the boxes

concealment, and

of
rank.

eleven

to

commenced

two, and the Opera began at
At this period the domino

was

hour

eighteenth

usually served,

nine

of Commons

the

of

dinner

people during

The

was

festivities.

at

the Pantheon, which he states was
above par
in magnificence,and below
par in humour,
and cost jQ'^(ioo.

and

England masked
before the reign of William
balls were
rare
they first took place
III., and in France
during the regency of Philip,Duke of Orleans,
into a
when
the Opera House
converted
was
wedding

masquerade

dating from 1463,
by torchlightat the
holds a
person
this dance, up to the
usually reserved for

display

garden and from the river.
new
Subscription and Assembly
opened in February, 1765, under

was

a

earliest illustration

at
an

Room

nobility,
a

in the

distinguished
patronage;

the

tenor, and

of Costume," states the
of a bal costume
is in

vocal parts performed by many
of the
fancy dress. Here, too, there was

in

of fireworks

called

were

FASHION.

May

bells,intended to
the dancers.
They

of different sizes,and

were

the

private

or

peasant, the
and
Friar.
a

of

measure

Fool, Tom

Franklin

with

adorned

were

OF

EVOLUTION

a.m.

sitting

seven.

(evolved from

in great request, and
of theatres for purposes
by those of questionable

morals.

Though the largehoop towards the
eighteenth century was
only
in full dress, the pocket
worn
at Court, or
Father
ball-room.
still in
Sebastian, a Carmelite
hoop for distendingthe pannierswas
of elevatingthe floor
For the abolition of the Court hoop,
friar,devised a means
vogue.
indebted
of the pit to the level of the stage, and of
we
are
to George IV., whose
taste
in dress was
and
loweringit at pleasure.
unimpeachable. Powder
Vauxhall
their ground till 1793,
Gardens, and
Ranelagh and
patches maintained
Belsize House, Hampstead, were
also places when they were
discarded by Queen Charlotte
of many
the Princesses.
of popular resort, and scenes
tainments and
enterAprons were
regarded
item of a fashionable costume
as
a necessary
during the eighteenth century.
There
were
pyrotechnicdisplays,bands of up to 1 750, and the watch and etui adorned the
music, frequentballs,and facilitiesfor dinner
waist,necklaces sparkledon the bosom, and
lawns were
bracelets were
and supper parties. The
dotted
worn
over
long gloves.
with

arbours, lakes, and

the trees

festooned

artificial cascades

;

with coloured

lamps,
of those who
the costumes
and
frequented
elaborate and costly.
these gatherings
were
From
the writingsof Horace
Walpole and
others, we learn that privateopen-airgalas
were

of

were

occurrence

common

and

he

gives

among

close

The

Revolution

French

and in 1789
costume;
this country the muslin
chin

Hessian

an

aff'ected masculine
introduced

were

cravat, in which

into
the

concealed, stand-upcollars,
partially

was

boots, and

Scarlet coats

the aristocracy,and

descriptionof

the

of

were

anecdote

in

hats

round

much
"

The

in vogue

Life

of
about

beaver.

1784,

of Sir

Astley
returning from

"

Cooper
represents him as
in honour
House
a dancing academy in a scarlet coat, a
threefestinoat Northumberland
and his bride; cocked
of the Marquess of Tavistock
hat, a black glazed stock, nankeen
arches and pyramids of lights alternately
when
knee-breeches, and silk stockings. This may
surrounded
the enclosure,and festoons
be regarded as the ordinarycostume
of a
In 1761 Her
of lamps edged the railings.
gentleman at that period.
band
Wigs had begun to go out of fashion as
Majesty Queen Charlotte surprisedher hushis birthdaywith a splendidgarden
on
earlyas 1763, in which year the wigmakers
petitionedKing George III. to support the
party, followed by fireworks,a cold supper of
trade by his example.
The
dishes,and an illuminated dessert.
a hundred
hair," says
celebrated a similar
of Richmond
dressed
The Duke
Malcolm, "was
high on the head,
ball and
whitened
with powder, and alternately
music
occasion with a masked
the
plaited
a

a

"

"

EVOLUTION

THE

and

turned

the hair
reverted

"

queued behind.
one
guinea per

in 1795, thousands
their natural colour.

to

brilliant fancy dress

Some
view

tax

enforced

was

"

or

up

powder

to

encouraginghome

place during
Victorian

OF

FASHION.

Waverley quadrille,led by

When

of heads

led by
quadrille,

Scotch

balls

Cossack

(with a

trade)have

taken

Greek

"

higham

Prince

wore

in

in

in two

various

lustrations
il-

close

with
studded

of

III.

with

which

tations
represenof the cos-

tume

had
up

centre

to

was

enriched

(1327-1377)-

this ball

was

with
to

with

the

were

the

collar,as

a

spond
corre-

series of costume

wristbands.

ranged
quadrilles, arby ladies

hose

the Court

of

rank.

They
order

:

Highness

"

to

wore

a

reaching

mantle

the

H.

R
.

the
gold. Over
tunic.His Royal

were

quadby

led

i 1 1 e,

broidered
em-

with

in the following

French
H

were

high

of

r

the

which

The

scarlet,
shoes,

were

also

and

others
danced

the

the knee,
bordered
and

jewels

of

the

heightof

the

special feature

an

opening

Edward

A

purple
thickly

jewels.The tunic,

desiring

period of

the
dered
bor-

was

velvet,

of reference

accurate

fitted

round

neck,

invaluable

for those

the
The

which
collar,

autograph
portraits of the
wearers.
They

book

and

to

ankles.

dresses,

an

gold

brocade,

and

form

sisted
con-

long

a

reaching

the

of

It

blue

by J. R, Planche,
fully
containing care-

king

Westminster

tunic of

compiled

the

that

of

handsome

coloured

from

Abbey.

exists

volumes

costume

a

copied
effigyof

1842, a permanent
memorial

of

Albert,
III,

Edward

as

Buck-

Palace

Duchess

Leinster.

Of

first, which
was
given by the
Queen and Prince
at

the

led by Baroness
Bremon.
quadrille,
of
quadrille,led by the Duchess

the

Consort

Countess

Buccleuch,

the

era.

the

de la Warn

annum

the heels,composed
of the richest

.

Duchess

of Cambridge.

ALBERT

PRINCE

AS

EDWARD

scarlet velvet,

III.

bordered
led by
Spanish quadrille,

the Duchess

of

the

of

broad

gold figuredlace,set

large pearls.

Buccleuch.
led by
quadrille,

German

Duchess

It

lined with

was

across

each

the

breast

by

by

a

side with

ermine, and
a

band

of

with diamonds, rubies,
in the centre
quoise
was
a tur-

purple velvet,studded

Sutherland.
Crusaders'

connected

on

quadrille,led

of Londonderry.

by

the

chioness and
Mar-

emeralds, and
of immense

size and

perfectcolour.
G

82

The

band

either

fastened

was

Her

Over

this

was

gold brocade,
embellished

match, and

worn

the

with

with

second

royal
George

of

The

selected,and
Queen looked

and

her

dress

ball in

June, 1845,

(1727 1760)

II.

-

guests

1200

in

of

as

silver,with

of

invited.

were

extremely well
described

is

gold and cloth
poppies worked

powder,
cloth

daisies

of

and

in natural
and shaded
silk,
ruffles of
trimmings and
exquisitepoint lace had belonged to Queen

fur

in

The

colours.

stomacher

a

the

period

was

surcoat

a

trimmed

FASHION.

For

on

III.,was attired in
skirt of crimson
velvet,edged

with miniver.
of blue and

at

mantle

of Edward

demi-trained

to

the

by a massive
gold ornament
with preciousstones.
as
Majesty the Queen
Philippaof

Hainault, wife

of

to

OF

side

enriched

a

EVOLUTION

THE

"

valued

jewels

;^6o,ooo.The

other
the

portions of

costume

also

were

with

studded
The

jewels.

tle
man-

of

was

gold

with

brocade,

a

design in
.The hair

floral
silver.

in

was

encased

gold

net, enriched

a

with

precious

stones,

and

was

surmounted

by

a

crown.

Princess

gusta
Aubridge
Cam-

of

personated
Claude,

Princess

daughter of
of

Anne

Bretagne,
of France.

Queen

ver
sil-

of

dress

Her

tissue

was

with

bordered

mine,
er-

the

and
tunic

of

was

blue
worked
fleur

The

bodice

was

o

n

d

trimmed
were

with

.

,

"

^

,

diaAS

VICTORIA

QUEEN

with

to

jewelled,

wrist, and

the
of

rows

and

pearls.
a

silver embroideries

The

white

tulle

depended

Charlotte

were

gloves
veil

from

a

On
crown

Prince

the

Consort, and
at this ball,were

silk-weavers

OF

EDWARD

III.

of

most

of the

manufactured

Spitalfields.

costumes

by

the

"

the

and

stomacher

was

trimmed

with lace and

turquoise and
pearl diadem.
By Her
dress, that of
Majesty's command, her own
worn

WIFE

PHILIPPA,

silver

reached

tissue

,

low

The

s.

of

sleeves

II

bor

with

dered

"

in

lis

-

("|

the

with
de

-

silver.

m

light

velvet,

the
;

rosettes
star

Garter.
the

same

mented
jewels. The sacque was ornawith ribbons, caught with diamonds.
diamond
a
powdered coiffure was
Her
Majesty's white shoes had red

with diamond
and

ribbon

Prince

centres, and she
the Order
of

of

Albert

period,with

had

a

costume

wore

the

of

the Star of the Garter,

THE

and

the

Duke
the

Marchioness

The

Baroness

Fleece

of

Coutts

Burdett

"

Miss

several

other
and

character

also

attended
with

at

admired

much

was

ill-fated

of the

now

jewels once

Willis' Rooms,
members
the
of

Ball

Waverley

Royal

in

the

Stuart.

Mary

On

July 22nd, 1874, a fancy dress ball was given
by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and
Princess of Wales
at
Marlborough House,
for

which

prepared.
Venetian
with
The

beautiful

some

Princess

The

danced

dress,and
the

Prince

present Duke
in

Cavalier

a

costumes

wore

a

in the firstquadrille

chief costume

Devonshire.

of

the ball with the late Duchess
The

were

handsome

opened

costume

of Sutherland.

on
quadrilles

this occasion

Venetian, the Vandyck, Characters
in Fairy Tales, and a Pack of Cards.
the

were

Another
in

historic

February,1895, at

Earl

and

imaginedthan

costume

Warwick

of

Countess

fitting
background
be

bal

for

given
Castle,by the
was

Warwick.
such

a

No

more

function

can

this

mansion, which
stately
has been a centre
of hospitality
for countless
been
generations,but has never
presided
over
more
by no
gracious and
popular
chatelaine than the present Countess.
Lady
Warwick

83

broche

of

silk,with

fichus

posed

was

with

the property of Marie Antoinette.
In 187 1 the Princess of Wales

Family,

"

EASHION.

in

Douro, the

diamonds.

of

dress trimmed

present, her

the

OE

of Wellington'sdaughter-in-law,
was
acknowledged belle of this ball,and wore

;^6o,ooo worth
the

Golden

the

of

Order

briUiants.

EVOLUTION

silk hats trimmed

chiffon,and
Each

carried

ribbons
effect

was

wore

a

ruby

long

a

French

white

cloth

white

kerseymere

white

shoes

ornamented

with

a

Warwick

of

with

of

coat

braided

was

knee-breeches

and

with diamond

in
low

buckles.

la

wig, a

the

gold lace,
The
long

revers.

waistcoat

the

were

Earl

costume, the

cuffs, and

gold,and
Earl's

and

The

Court

white

flowers,

profuselytrimmed

velvet

feathers.

with

tied

of

charming.

The

crook

bunches

and

white

of

with

tied
mousquetaire,
ribbon,and he carried
ostrich plumes, and
a tricorne hat with white
white gauntletgloves. Lady Warwick's
two
of Sutherland
the Duchess
and Lady
sisters,
Angela Forbes, representedMarie Letzinka,
of Louis
consort
XV., and
Lady Mary
a
Campbell. The former wore
magnificent
of white
satin de
Lyon. The skirt
gown
with
embroidered
a
flightof swallows in
silver and crystals,
of Point de
a deep bertha
bow

was

of black

Flandre, with

ruffles of

short

The

sleeves.
embroidered

was

and

Her

diamonds.
of

the

velvet

emblem,
splendid

of

Forbes'

dress

blue

Princess
de

the

same

was

sash, and

a

embroidered

i8in.

brilliants,
a

jewels in

with

of Pless,
dress of

Henry

had
Polignac,

satin,the skirt
turquoisesand

wig,and

French

a

the

on

trimmed
silk,
turquoise

roses.

la Duchesse

deep, with

of

same

stomacher

muslin, with

feathers and
rich white

a

Lady Angela

white

picturesquehat
as

with
had

Grace

the

train of crimson

her

dered
pow-

hair.

Lady Eva Dugdale, sister to the Earl of
very
Antoinette
of Louis
to Her
XVL
of
Warwick, and lady-in-waiting
(the consort
Royal
a Louis
France) in a petticoatand corsage of exquiHighness the Duchess of York, wore
site
English brocade, with a designof shaded
Quinze white satin dress,covered with pink
a
roses, enriched with gold thread on
pearl- roses, corsage en suite fastened with large
coloured
diamond
A silver trellispattern
ornaments.
ground. The train of royal blue
in gold thread with the
of the skirt,
worked
round the hem
and
velvet,embroidered
was
white silk mittens and shoes completed the
attached to the shoulders by a
was
fleur-de-lis,
band of diamonds; and the Warwick
white
a
Lady Rosslyn chose
jewels, costume.
diamond
muslin
embroidered
the overdress
stars, were
petticoat,
arranged on the corsage
veiled with gold flecked gauze,
which
of pink and red stripedsilk,fichu and ruches
was
hat.
also employed for the puffed sleeves.
of black lisse,
and a picturesque
Her
Lady
elaborate white coiffure was
Madame
la
de Pompadour,
Flo
surmounted
as
Sturt,
Marquise
by
white muslin
in rich cream
a
satin,with bodice
was
cap edged with blue velvet
with diamond
and
adorned
stomacher
and sleeves of antique lace, and
and
aigrettes
A
black satin toque, with
of diamonds.
plumes of pink, white, and blue feathers.
well with
of diamonds, contrasted
Lady MarjorieGreville (theonly daughter of
aigrette
Lord and Lady Warwick) with Miss Hamilton
the white wig. Count
Deym, the Austrian
train bearers.
dress.
acted
in English Court
as
the
Ambassador, was
They wore
Prince Henry of Pless,in mousquetaire cosdaintiest white costumes
of the period,
comlooked

beautiful

as

Marie

-

G

2

84

F. VOLUTION

THE

tume, representedthe Vicomte
of Manchester
The
Duke
was

breeches, waistcoat
coat

of white

with

roses

and

moss

The

in white

satin

with

silver brocade

and

foliage.

inside

scene

Bragelonne.

de

match, bordered

to

gold,and

OF

the

FASHION.

of the sixtieth year of the reignof
Ball
at
Costume
a
Victoria, was

in honour

Queen

Devonshire

one

was

of

received

unparalleled brilliancy,while those who
saw
by
glanced from the mullioned windows
brightmoonlightthe Avon frozen,the ancient
with frost,and the surroundcedars glistening
ing
The
country wrapped in a snowy mantle.
entire ground floor of the Castle was
thrown
and
no
pains were
spared to give as
open,
complete a representationas possibleof the

of

fetes which
made
the Court
of
gorgeous
Marie Antoinette famous
throughout Europe.

in which
pictures,
represented; and

The

rear,

finest

candles

high

screens,

and

shaded

of the

in the

at

supper
light of

reflected

was

which

armour

when

spectacle presented itself

the guests assembled
lined hall, where
the

in

surrounded

bright

the walls.

hung with Beauvais
by huge palms, filled

hall,and

the stone

thousand

a

the

walls

oak-

were

steel

Several

tapestry
the

angles
partially

concealed

by yellow and silver embroideries.
In the huge fireplace
logs crackled, and on
tables were
small round
delabra
placed silver canwith crimson

shades

consistingof
maiden-hair
reserved

fern.

for Marie

scarlet

The

geraniums
table

centre

Antoinette

and

was

her Court,

here was
the choicest displayof family
other
valuable
plate, including, amongst
specimens of the goldsmith'sart, a golden
Cellini.
From
by Benvenuto
cup modelled
the hall you entered the Red
Drawing-room,
contains

flowers and
of

Marie

a

marble

fruit,and

whose
other

table, inlaid

with

formerly the property

Antoinette.

Drawing-room, used

Next

is the

Cedar

the

ball-room, on
walls
are
family portraitsand
many
paintingsby Vandyck ; the remainder
as

the

the suite of State apartments were
used as
drawing-rooms between the dances; and
is the Library,
at the oppositeend of the Casde

beautiful

rooms

which

the

Duke

of

a

tion
recep-

galleryof

masters

were

well

are

in the

grounds

Chinese

and

Duchess

and

decorated

lanterns and

Devonshire, the

of

V. of

Germany,
cence
magnifias
Zenobia, Queen of Palmyra, in a
of silver tissue wrought with
jewels.
of cloth of gold similarly
mantle
was
latter attired with Oriental

the

robe
The

the

treated, and

bodice

white

of

ostrich

also

was

studded

head-dress

The

precious stones.

plumes

and

sisted
con-

golden
depended
a

which
from
jewelled crown,
the Princess
of pearls. H.R.H.
of
Wales, as Margaret of Valois,was surrounded
by the ladies of her Court, their Royal
of
Denmark,
Highnesses Princess Charles

and

chains

Victoria

Princess

Fife, and
Princess

the

Wales, the Duchess

of

Duchess

of Wales

of
a

wore

York.

gown

of

The

of

white

wrought with silver,and a train of cloth
with
silver
and
of gold lined
superbly
of Wales, as
the Prince
jewelled. H.R.H.
Grand
Master of the Knights Hospitallers
of
Chevalier
St. John of Jerusalem and
of
satin

out

flowers.
delicately-shaded

old

the

extensive

personating Charles

former

wore

of

floor;

held

fairy
lamps. The principalfeature of the ball was
the guests, headed
a grand processionof
by

Malta,

festoons

of

Duke

Geogiana,

fine suite of

this occasion

on

with thousands

carried

Billiard-room,and the Countess's lovely
Seize Boudoir, in ivory tints, with

a

first

the

that

of Devonshire,

Duchess

on

historic

third

here

of

members

This

for the

it was

It contains

her Court.

of

Louis

built

was

with

the

distinguished

many

Colonies, and

Devonshire, and

and

and

which

mansion

of

members

nearlyall the

Diplomatique.

Corps

floral decorations, with

and

the

July 2nd,

Duchess

and

Family,

Royal

guests from
the

Duke

the

Devonshire
the

on
Piccadilly,

House,

when

1897,

Castle

Englisharistocracy

of the

members

given by

the white
The

cross

Duke

of

Cumberland,
courtiers.

rich

a

in

black

Elizabethan
and

of the Order
York
one

Prince

costume

bearing

and
silver,
on

one

shoulder.

represented the Earl of
of
Elizabeth's
Queen
Charles

of Denmark

was

a

carried on
Duke
of Connaught
with great spirit Danish
student.
The
Dancing was
tillearlymorning, and
the tardy winter sun
of a militarycommander
the uniform
wore
had
risen ere
the last carriagedrove away
the
during the reign of Elizabeth, and
from
of the most
looked charming as Queen Anne
of
successful balls of the
Duchess
one
nineteenth
with puffed
Austria in a picturesque gown
century.
The
sleeves.
Eastern Queens were
entertainments
Among the many important
magnifi-

THE

cently

Trafford
in

Assyria,

of

British

the
Pless

Princess

Museum.

Queen

was

train

shot

of

and

and

with

wore

Cynthia
patras

Graham,

The

Paget.

Byzantine

a

Queen

was

and

with

Cleo-

d'Alengon

a

a

of

embroidery

turquoises,

notable
Elizabethan

Lady

Tweedmouth

gown

copied

Portrait

by

four
and

picture

of

the

doublet
enriched

dress

of

head-dress
was

attended

dressed
the

in

with

gold

blue

of

Warwick,

ruby

Lord

velvet

Queen

of

velvet,

and

with

Duchess

character

favourite

Gold,"

embroidery.

worked
the

of

of

maid
as

of

Mary
of
Marie

tulle

pearls.

L

cliffe,
in

and

Lady

Scots,

Charles

wore

Lambi.

the
white

silver,
mantle,

The

satin

the

British

de

by
with

diamonds
in

the

coiffure.

and

by

Duchess
who

of

headed
of

composed

was

lisse

covered

embroidered

exact

an

Museum

Savoia,

with

of

Russia,

of

was

the

of

procession,

and
introduced

dress

Duchesse

partially

wife
Rain-

IL

her

gown

veiled,

of

Maria,

Viscountess

Court

Venetian

Hamilton,

Antoinette,

as

in

picture

The

Portland,

veil

and

Marie

Marchioness

Catherine

Empress

Coronation

Empress
the

England;

satin,

the

of

copy

Hamilton,

honour.

the

as

white

wore

She

of

Empress

Marchioness

Henrietta

Queen

as

the

;

the

the

the

the
and

and
other

mentioned
as

in

as

dress
head-

many

be

Paris

Austria,

of

Zetland's,

Leicester,

of

of

Mary

ruff

by
the

Queen's

Countess

hose

pale
and

Earl

and

as

Cloth

collection.

the

was

Edmondstone,
a

the

Court

Hampton

slashed

of

Holbein's

from

The
crown

appears

Louvre,

Londonderry,

Therese,

satin.

Tweedale's,

she

as

the

at

and

jewelled

jewelled

should
of

wore

satin,

with

Among

costumes

Josephine,

of

with

Lady

diamonds,

and

small

a

Lady

and

Naples,

edged

feathers.

Marchioness

picture

crimson,

of

copied

a

carried

was

uniforms

Field

The

"

in

National

the

canopy

in

gold,

Tweedmouth

satin,

Her

by

Elizabeth,
in

picture

a

yeomen

represented

was

Queen

as

from

Gallery.

black,

in

Court

of

white

two

pearls.
The

lined

and

consisted

and

silver

waist.

of

a

point

duchesse

ivory

velvet,

Chine,
with

Hebe,

Queen

of

lilac

of

trimmed

the

as

with

train

of

and

a

Charlotte
de

at

a

included

as

crepe

lovely

three-

ladyship

group

dagger

gown

embroidered

dress

and

made

Empire

an

red

cap,

lace,

Forbes,

Angela

gold

and

and

her

This

of

gown

fichu

suits

over

velvet.
attended

was

Sutherland,

of
a

blue

she

satin

velvet.

Westmorland

Wilson

with

amethysts,

mushn

gown

rich

of

English

of

Royal
and

white

blue

petticoat

a

of

bearing

Duchess

Lady

Countess

wore

embroidered

crepe,

studded

Esther,

Queen

as

the

in

hats,

Corday,in

Elcho

Muriel

Miss

Queen,

the

and

train

powdered,

pages

of

in
Court

a

a

was

four

canopy

panied
accom-

Lady

hair

by

dressed

and

with

cornered

Arthur

latter

Antony.

Vashti,

Dudley,
white

two

Mrs.

the

of

Mark

as

The

dress,
head-

was

were

and

Grey

husband

her
was

there

and
de

of

other

bird

Sheba

of

brocade,

and

jewelled

satin

in

rately
elabo-

and

diamond

a

Queen

Lady

"

turquoises

with

Another

aigrette.

robe

a

tissue,

gold

Assyrian

an

decorated

vase

Henry

in

Sheba,

of

purple

embroidered
stones,

a

85

beautifully

was

white

Empress

from

copied

dress

FASHION.

OF

jewels.

Semiramis,

was

a

with

blazing

and

arrayed
de

Lady

EVOLUTION

wrought
a

silver

pearls
emeralds

and

with
cloth
monds,
diawere

Chapter
X.

STAGE
AND
FLORAL
COSTUME.

FASHION.

OF

EVOLUTION

THE

X

Chapter

All the world's

"

all the

And

GARRICK
English
the

was

one

of

success

a

appropriatecostume,
of

management
at

branch

mixture

of

ancient

modes,

hitherto

this

to

He

art.

absurdity of a
the
foreign

the

much

how

which

important

refused

of

to

heterogeneous
and

clown,

soldiers

in

the

had

Nation

of

in trunk

been

gradual,for Garrick
played the part

very

said to

have

to

Mrs.

Yates

is

Lear

and

Hamlet

he

though
in

a

of

the

played

fancy dress

regard

some

detail.

Even

century,

an

Mathews

public,at

the

Richmond
helmet

in
and

much

also

the

plays
Miss

Theatre

a

modern

or
1

as

are

lighthorse

the

of

and

the

provincial
Langtry,

theatres

revivals

to

earliest

oblivion.

touch

the

seen

and

at

late
also

influence, money,

bear

otherwise

often to be

in

on

our

music

correct

stage

result that

we

sumptuouslyand
new
plays,
might have sunk
Such
spectacles
politan
leading Metrohalls,if they fail

publicfancy,mean

absolute

and

irretrievable ruin to their promoters; and when
thousands
it is remembered
that many
are

annually
before

harlequinade was

717, and

to

vival
re-

also

was

Bernhardt,

Terry, Mrs.

their

taste

into
late Mr.

spent

pantomime
England in

and

Madame

Ellen

which

MAIDEN

TURKISH

Royal, Richmond, as
HL,
wearing the

Richard

jacket of

The

Calvert's

ballets

London

at

dressed
A

provided

"

and

VHL,

with the
costume,
have
had
many

his firstappearance

made

away

Sir Henry
Irving, and the
Harris
have
Sir Augustus

of

recorded.

Wingfield
designing

to

in Mr.

theatres.

century,
with

passed

Alhambra

brought

designed

excellent

responsiblefor dressingmany

and

HL

time

of Henry

i8th

Richard

various

adapted

Lewis

late Hon.

also followed

first

played in

with

the costumes

soldier.
The

stage purposes

as

correctness

be

been

"

during the present
achronism
anequally absurd

may

Charles

to

also

has

court

the fashions

century.

of

the stage dresses of the Victorian
Madame
Alias
and
who
era,

of

appeared in a
ous
petticoatof enormdimensions, with tight-fitting
pointed bodice and elbow sleeves,
and
her powdered hair dressed
Garrick's
over
a
high cushion.
suits for the characters
of King
hooped

iSth

costume

has

The

ten

while
scarlet ;
Lady Macbeth

the

of

peasant

devoted

later
in a
years
gold-laced suit of sky blue and

Macbeth

of

effect.

have

must

ballet dancers

some

nations

provement,
im-

The

hose.

however,

a

contemporary

no

French

are

The

Oriental

an

the

the middle

wigs,

full-bottomed

King

the
in

carefully-executed
platesin Planche's "Cyclopaediaof Costume.'^
times
They are all representedin long,and somefirstexample of
in trained skirts. The
ballet skirt,reaching to the
the abbreviated
knee, is given in the portraitof an actress
personating Le
Zephyr, about

representing,for instance, Greek
and

have

we

drawings.
this period there

tragedies by

debased

be found

to

Fair, dated
1721.
of columbine, pantaloon,

characters

the

and

us, is

to

Bartholomew

Of

in 1747,

Theatre

Lane

Drury

dramatic

of

tolerate

our

piece depended upon
his taking the
and, on

his attention

turned

once

realize

to

Of

first of

English harlequin in

an

familiar

now

sketch

parts."

plays many
of the

actors

dress

their entrances,

in his time

man

one

illustration of

stage,

a

merely players,

women

their exits and

They have
And

and

men

COSTUME.

FLORAL

AND

STAGE

89

at

once

be

a
seen

in staging theatrical
singleseat is booked,
what

enormous

sums

prises,
enter-

it will
must

be

involved

The

in

been

catered

for

the scenic

which

It would

limit
even

costumes

of

times
some-

difficulties with

the

scribed
the circum-

singlevolume

a

the
the

minutely

to

notable

most

theatrical

FLORAL

last

for the benefit of those
them

into

COSTUMES.
POPPY.

A

desire

who

ments.
entertain-

various

FASHION.

capable of controlling
every gesture, and of
voices.
charming us with their well-modulated
Our lives are
cheered
by viewing the comic
side of
our
on
things, and
clothing and
household
the stage has also laid
possessions,
hand.
a refining

half century, but a few
will be
effective floral costumes

introduce

to

generously, are

so

impossiblewithin

of

the most

appended

sixtyyears

artist has to contend.

be

describe

for the last

overlook

to

apt

have

OF

interests

furtheringdramatic

public,who

of

EVOLUTION

THE

90

bodice

The

skirt of

and

pleated mousseline
The

steady patronage of Her
the Royal Family

have

done

much

to

prejudiceswhich
the

Majesty

the

flower

belt in

and

silk

and

Queen

drama,

remove

as

any

of

against
powerful

a

if he

be

assimilated

having

lesson.
we

owe

To

precious
the

all

sex, in an
desire for progress,

neglectthose
in the

them

pieces

allow

the world

was

of

the

times
some-

live

occurred

people

to

"

examples?
marked

a

have

not

rose

our
are

of

the

Cross,"

"

concord

and

of sweet

community
the

opera
?

we

the

value

watch

of

stimulated

sounds

among

Such

plays as

"Mikado"

instinct for colour

taught

restraint when

entirely

ROSE.

have
and

pink

hat

pink satin,veiled

of

and

buds.
at
on

hem

the

the

flecked
ruche

A

of

bodice.

trimmed

with

WILD

ROSE.

of

moss

with
moss

the skirt
A

roses

Dolly
and

ribbon.

Robertson

"

comic

Varden

Babylon,"

yet

"Patience"

we

of

influence

"
Caste " and
Ours
are
love of music is not considered
trait of the English nation,

a

A

flowers.

blooms,
correspond.

tulle

roses

POPPY.

and

the

of

those

A

A

all classes of the

to

Gown

Sign
Daughters

Italian and

desire for

a

these

with

The

"

school, of which

hat

with

vince
con-

tastes

simpler,

"

or
''Virginius,"

lace

MOSS

nature, with its passions
and
has changed
aspirations,
but little. Who
can
deny the moral

playsas
Hypatia," The

the

covered
fan

lace

when

the

were

such

of

white

silk.

green

White

and

human

of

on

berthe

full

again

and

young,

though

us,

VALLEY

historical

to

us

mounted

buckler.

and

which

scenes

able
insati-

lesser arts

and

classical

THE

Corsage and skirt of
pleated Valenciennes

of

past proved

shield

a

The
in

more

some

OF

LILY

types of

weaker

which

silk

black shoes and

carried.

able
valu-

the

that

now

a

tume
cos-

Shakespeare
ideal

many

womanhood,

for

this

With

neat

without

some

the
one

stockingsshould be worn, and
with
a
palm-leaffan covered
poppies and foliageshould be

the theatregoer

leaves

is used

size

extra

Large
on

bust, and

and

head-dress.

education
the
auxiliary to
stage is rapidlygaining
ground.

Dull, indeed, must

bright red silk.
poppies appear

shoulders

existed

and

red accordion,
soie,the petals of the

de

broidered
pink and white satin,empainted with clusters and trails
and foliage. Skirt edged with
of wild roses
with roses,
of pink tulle studded
full ruche
to correspond.
and corsage trimmed
Coiffure
poudre dressed with small basket of roses and

Dress

of

shot

or

veloped pink ribbon.
de-

form, and

industry

well-trained

WHITE

and

actors.

Gown

with

Watteau

ROSE.
train

of

white

satin

EVOLUTION

THE

with

leaveless

flowers

carried

edged
same

elbow

and

wreath
and

white

of

crook

a

ribbon

flowers

and

ROSES.

brocade, with

cream-coloured

of

design in shaded
with garland of
in tulle.

different tints

of

roses

Decollete

correspond, and

a

of the

THE

High
edged with

embroidered

in

bold

a

The

ikirt

thistles,which

of

design

are

the

on

Satin hat trimmed
front of gown and bodice.
with thistles and ribbon, and black staff tied
with thistles and ribbon streamers,
r,
DANDELION.

finished
the

yellow accordion, pleated chiffon

of

Gown

in

the hair.

the skirt with trails of flowers from

on

waist

to

with the seed
FLOWERS.

WILD

a

bedded
em-

worn

rose

de nil satin.

eau

wreath

a

and

THISTLE.

of

dress

trimmed

corsage

damask

tiny shamrocks,
in the hair.

same

trimmed
foliage,

and

roses

with

strewn

coronet

also

SUMMER

to

with

decorated

streamers.

Gown

tulle

9'

A

lace.

of

powdered hair,

in the

roses

the

FASHION.

square-cut bodice,

the

Ruffles

sleeves.

of

the front of the

across

outhning

dress, and

chains

roses,

OF

The

aways.

hem
of the skirt,interspersed
pods commonly known as blowbodice of pleatedyellow chiffon

the berthe and clusters
with dandelions
across
satin,veiled with green
A wreath
and aigrette
to
tulle.
Trails
of
forget-me-nots,poppies, on the shoulders.
marguerites,buttercups,and grass depending
correspond.
from
the waist-belt to
edge of skirt, and
IRIS.
bodice trimmed
to correspond. A Leghorn
Dress
of white satin, veiled with mauve
hat garnished with wild flowers,grass, and
blue ribbons.
chiffon, flecked with iris petals. Trails of
Dress

pale blue

of

Greek

dress

embroidered

in classical

crepe

de

design

with

Chinei
silver-

diagonaltrailsof gardeniasand their
foliagearranged from the rightshoulder

In front
dark

left side

to

of dress.

silver bands.

hair

The

shower

A

flowers

Square

elbow

sleeves.

with the

to

cut

bows

carried
to

corsage
A

muslin

flowers.

same

of

across

correspond,
trimmed

cap

hair.

Powdered

LILAC.

with

bound

bouquet

the skirt.
and

tied with

shades, and

satin in alternate

white

of

white

and

mauve

GARDENL^.

of

Gown

spond.
corre-

with

satin brocaded

cream

mauve

Marie Antoinette,white chiffon
white lilac,
with
trimmed
clusters of
and
fichu,
cap
and

SHAMROCK.

THE

Gown
with
The
and
Irish

of

velvet

green
shamrocks
of

stomacher
the

a

sleeves

cut

Corsage

PRINTED

BY

to

in

shade.

with

REVEIRS,

the
green

GRAYSTOKE

lilac and

chiffon ruffles.
to

hair

The

flowers, and
white

a

white

satin fan

caught by
dressed

twisted

FETTER

LANE,

a

E.G.

painted

laine.
flower chate-

with

scarf of

chiffon.

PLACE,

sleeves with

foliage.Elbow
The

correspond,and

emeralds,

resemble

veiled

G.

appliqued

darker

large trefoil

a

short

emblem.

shaded
satin

emerald

the
mauve

same

and