Turbo Kit
Content
2005 – 2005 – 2009 2009 Mustang GT Single Turbo System
Whats in the box? The kit comes in multiple boxes. The comp turbo comes directly from comp. A box box for the fuel system and injectors and the kit, hardware and components come in their own boxes. Here are some pictures of t he component: Hotside and coldside piping and intercooler.
Installation Tip Guide This guide is designed to help give you tips on the install and a rough guide that will answer most questions on doing the install. This is not a step by step instruction but we do try to cover everything that we can on the install to make sure you are not guessing on what you are doing. We highly recommend reading over the install tips several times before you do the install so you know that you are prepared and able to cover the whole install yourself. Also helps make a plan so you know what order and so you don’t end up working backwards on any of the steps. This system is designed for racing or off road applications only. 1.
READ THE FULL PACKET BEFORE BEGINNING. YOU MIGHT FIND ITS EASIER TO INSTALL IN A
DIFFERENT ORDER OR TO BE AWARE OF THE WAY THE KIT FULLY INSTALLS. On 3 Performance LLC will not be responsible for any accident occurred during the install/assembly while following this install sheet. The installer assumes all responsibility for following the direction in the following packet. This is to be used for informational purposes only. From the time the kit is installed, the owner of the car is completely liable for the car equipped with the kit. This is to be used for OFF-ROAD USE ONLY. This packet is to be used for informational purposes only and use your best judgment when doing the installation. It only will fit one way, email [email protected] if you need any additional photos to help with the install. 2.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY
3.
When getting started on your turbo kit install, you can begin by removing some of the stock
parts. The mid pipe can be taken off, front bumper, top radiator hose, and all intake piping up to the throttle body. Every other step, sit back and take a deep breath, maybe grab your drink and relax. Take it step by step, it always seems like something isn’t going to work and in t he end, everything is all good. There is a lot of plumbing going where Ford never designed exhaust to be ran. 4.
During the manufacturing process, debris can accumulate on the inside of the intercooler piping.
Its ideal to ensure nothing is sucked into your engine to thoroughly rinse the inside of the piping and check for any burrs before installed. Also if you do this now, it will be dried out and ready to be installed when you get to that step. 5.
Transfer your oxygen sensors to your two header pipes that connect to them. The driver side
may need extended so either use a o2 extension or else just cut and splice in wire to extend them 7-8”. 6.
Since the 3v kit doesn’t require you to swap to a tubular K-member, you can instantly get
started on the tubing install. Starting with the passenger side header pipe,(2 ½” pipe with the 2 bolt flat flange and flex pipe section) put a little bead of high temp copper RTV around the flange and bolt it up. It will run directly under the transmission and nearly touch the bottom but that’s just to keep the ground clearance to the max. You can take some of the header wrap to this section in order to make sure it doesn’t rattle if close to touching. ***From here on out, all hotside connections you are going to want to leave slightly loose. There needs to be adjustment and this is key to get everything installed in there and adjusted properly. Also, to prevent any exhaust leaks, you can use small beads of high temp
copper RTV between v-band connections and on the turbo flange to prevent any sort of exhaust leak. One other tip is that we normally pull the studs out of the manifolds and use just a nut and bolt to hold the pipes to the driver-side manifold. If you don’t, sometimes the flange will bottom out before you have it completely tightened against the ball and socket flange. 7.
Next there is almost a “?” shaped pipe with a loose flange, this is the pipe that connects to the
driver-side manifold and loops around and points toward the front of the car. You can install this next and leave it slightly loose as you will need the adjustability to get everything connected. 8.
With both manifold pipes bolted up, you can get the 2.5” v-band and bolt the 2 header pipes
together so they are merged. Once again, snug the v-band up but just leave it slightly loose so you have a little play and adjustment. 9.
Before moving any further, its better to tap the front of the oil pan before any more tubing is
installed. Once the next two sections are installed, its going to make it impossible to tap. Go to www.vortechsuperchargers.com and look at there Mustang 3v supercharger install directions to view the exact position to punch the pan. The pan bung is 3/8” pipe thread and you will need to run a tap though with a good amount of grease on it to catch the shavings. After threading the bung into the pan, it cant hurt to put a small amount of RTV around the thread area where it meets the pan. That way you can be sure that it doesn’t seep any oil.
16.
Moving on, you will need to now locate a similar shape pipe to the other one that goes though
the opposite side a-arm. It also again has a flattened out section to help give more clearance under the control arm. This pipe goes under the control arm and the up through the center toward the starter. Now you are to the last hotside pipe that will connect into the stock catback. There is a support rod that will also slip into the stock exhaust rubber hanger for support. Use your stock catback exhaust bands and connect the merge to your C-B. 17.
Now its time to go back to the front and pull everything around so you can get the wastegate
mounted up. Check back at the photo to show how the fire ring installs, it’s the small circular spacer that fits against the actual valve. The more narrow part goes against the valve and will seat against it slightly pushing the valve up. Hardware for this is included in your hardware bag. You can also install the turbo support bracket as well. There is a stud coming off the top corner of the timing cover with a nut on it. Remove the nut and the thicker of the 2 “L” brackets is used to support the turbo. Bolt that to the stud and then you can rotate the turbo housing so the bracket bolts to the compressor housing. You will actually use the ½” compressor bolt to at tach the two. 18.
Normally we will still leave everything only snugged up till all the cold side is installed. You can
move on to the cold side and DO NOT start by installing the intercooler. You can, but you will have to leave things loose so you can have adjustment. Normally we start at the outlet of the compressor and work our way toward the inlet of the intercooler. Then move to the throttle body and work our way back to the outlet of the intercooler. The inlet of the intercooler on this kit is the lower inlet and the outlet will be the upper port. Most of the issues are here when people mount the intercooler first and then say our piping is off. This way if you run the tubing first, you will know exactly where the intercooler must sit. The brackets for the intercooler mounting are in the kit and also laser cut. It’s a 2piece bracket and you will find the hardware in the supplied kit. The main bracket bolts to the hood hinge and use the actual hood hinge bolt to secure the upper portion. 19.
The top intercooler port(outlet) will use the 90 degree elbow and point downwards. The other
pipes are pretty self-explanatory and you will use the 2.5 – 3” reducer where the outlet pipe goes through the inner fender by the ABS unit. You may have to loosen the bracket on the ABS module to allow the pipe to fit up through. Its very tight but it’s the way it has to be since we didn’t want to require any cutting on the car.
22.
As for the drain, you can cut the hose coming from the turbo drain plate to length attaching it
to the bung in the pan. The drain is essential to the longevity of the turbo and keeping it in great working condition. 23.
Once the oil lines are squared away, its time to move on to the upper cooling pipe. As you see
we just cut the section of the hose where it mounts to the port on the motor and coming out of the radiator. The metal radiator tube is included and we also supply you new hose clamps in the kit to attach and secure this pipe. Also at this time you will find the Thermo-cool insulator tube. You can use this to cover the overflow tube that runs close to the turbo and along the fan in the front. You disconnect the hose from the overflow and slip this sleeve over it. Normally we will also use a few plastic ties to pull it away from anything hot and against the fan housing to prevent any premature hose damage. Be sure to keep an eye on this and be sure its always secure, your downpipe, turbo, etc will burn this hose if you don’t secure it out of the way.
24.
Instal maf meter or hpx/ba5000 in the welded on flange.A lso since your wiring may be short,
you may end up having to exte nd those 6 maf wires so they will reach the new blow through meter position. 25.
Also you will notice your stock location of the power steering reservoir will have to change.
There is already a hole in the driver side strut tower and we use the thinner “L” shaped bracket to relocate the tank. There is a supplied 6mm bolt to secure the bracket to the car and also the larger allen bolt to secure the reservoir to the bracket. The hoses will now be too short and you will fine 2 – 3/8” stainless extensions and 2- rubber hoses. This will allow you to extend the hoses to now reach the reservoir in its new location.
26. 27.
Install the injectors and fuel system. Now basically the complete kit is squared away, you can install the wastegate, blow off valve
and vacuum lines to each. Connect the banjo fitting to the lower/side port on the wastegate as well before installing as it would be very difficult to do so after its on the car. The top port will remain open and that is normal. As for vacuum supply, we supply you the parts to tee off the vacuum source right along the driver side fuel rail. You will have the vacuum hose, tee’s and barbs needed and run a line to the wastegate and one to the blow off valve. 28.
WASTEGATE SPRINGS: There aredifferent springs. The stock wastegate normally is right around
6psi. This can vary so once you get it on your car, do a partial pull to see what boost level you are working with. Then if you need more, the yellow spring can add around 2psi, red 3psi, and blue 5psi. Once again, these are all estimates and you need to test with each to verify what boost it m akes on your application
Disclamer: This packet is for educational purposes we will not be held responsible for any damage to the vehicle or persons due to improperly installing the product, personal injury or death. Products are inspected and strict quality control is enforced before kits are shipped out and in perfect working order. The kits are to be installed by professional mechanics and all warranties are voided unless this is followed. Purchaser of the kit assumes all responsibility and will be liable for the car and anyone involved in the use of this kit. Our warranty covers the hotside of the kit for 1 year and comp covers the turbo for 1 year as well.
Whats in the box? The kit comes in multiple boxes. The comp turbo comes directly from comp. A box box for the fuel system and injectors and the kit, hardware and components come in their own boxes. Here are some pictures of t he component: Hotside and coldside piping and intercooler.
Installation Tip Guide This guide is designed to help give you tips on the install and a rough guide that will answer most questions on doing the install. This is not a step by step instruction but we do try to cover everything that we can on the install to make sure you are not guessing on what you are doing. We highly recommend reading over the install tips several times before you do the install so you know that you are prepared and able to cover the whole install yourself. Also helps make a plan so you know what order and so you don’t end up working backwards on any of the steps. This system is designed for racing or off road applications only. 1.
READ THE FULL PACKET BEFORE BEGINNING. YOU MIGHT FIND ITS EASIER TO INSTALL IN A
DIFFERENT ORDER OR TO BE AWARE OF THE WAY THE KIT FULLY INSTALLS. On 3 Performance LLC will not be responsible for any accident occurred during the install/assembly while following this install sheet. The installer assumes all responsibility for following the direction in the following packet. This is to be used for informational purposes only. From the time the kit is installed, the owner of the car is completely liable for the car equipped with the kit. This is to be used for OFF-ROAD USE ONLY. This packet is to be used for informational purposes only and use your best judgment when doing the installation. It only will fit one way, email [email protected] if you need any additional photos to help with the install. 2.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY
3.
When getting started on your turbo kit install, you can begin by removing some of the stock
parts. The mid pipe can be taken off, front bumper, top radiator hose, and all intake piping up to the throttle body. Every other step, sit back and take a deep breath, maybe grab your drink and relax. Take it step by step, it always seems like something isn’t going to work and in t he end, everything is all good. There is a lot of plumbing going where Ford never designed exhaust to be ran. 4.
During the manufacturing process, debris can accumulate on the inside of the intercooler piping.
Its ideal to ensure nothing is sucked into your engine to thoroughly rinse the inside of the piping and check for any burrs before installed. Also if you do this now, it will be dried out and ready to be installed when you get to that step. 5.
Transfer your oxygen sensors to your two header pipes that connect to them. The driver side
may need extended so either use a o2 extension or else just cut and splice in wire to extend them 7-8”. 6.
Since the 3v kit doesn’t require you to swap to a tubular K-member, you can instantly get
started on the tubing install. Starting with the passenger side header pipe,(2 ½” pipe with the 2 bolt flat flange and flex pipe section) put a little bead of high temp copper RTV around the flange and bolt it up. It will run directly under the transmission and nearly touch the bottom but that’s just to keep the ground clearance to the max. You can take some of the header wrap to this section in order to make sure it doesn’t rattle if close to touching. ***From here on out, all hotside connections you are going to want to leave slightly loose. There needs to be adjustment and this is key to get everything installed in there and adjusted properly. Also, to prevent any exhaust leaks, you can use small beads of high temp
copper RTV between v-band connections and on the turbo flange to prevent any sort of exhaust leak. One other tip is that we normally pull the studs out of the manifolds and use just a nut and bolt to hold the pipes to the driver-side manifold. If you don’t, sometimes the flange will bottom out before you have it completely tightened against the ball and socket flange. 7.
Next there is almost a “?” shaped pipe with a loose flange, this is the pipe that connects to the
driver-side manifold and loops around and points toward the front of the car. You can install this next and leave it slightly loose as you will need the adjustability to get everything connected. 8.
With both manifold pipes bolted up, you can get the 2.5” v-band and bolt the 2 header pipes
together so they are merged. Once again, snug the v-band up but just leave it slightly loose so you have a little play and adjustment. 9.
Before moving any further, its better to tap the front of the oil pan before any more tubing is
installed. Once the next two sections are installed, its going to make it impossible to tap. Go to www.vortechsuperchargers.com and look at there Mustang 3v supercharger install directions to view the exact position to punch the pan. The pan bung is 3/8” pipe thread and you will need to run a tap though with a good amount of grease on it to catch the shavings. After threading the bung into the pan, it cant hurt to put a small amount of RTV around the thread area where it meets the pan. That way you can be sure that it doesn’t seep any oil.
16.
Moving on, you will need to now locate a similar shape pipe to the other one that goes though
the opposite side a-arm. It also again has a flattened out section to help give more clearance under the control arm. This pipe goes under the control arm and the up through the center toward the starter. Now you are to the last hotside pipe that will connect into the stock catback. There is a support rod that will also slip into the stock exhaust rubber hanger for support. Use your stock catback exhaust bands and connect the merge to your C-B. 17.
Now its time to go back to the front and pull everything around so you can get the wastegate
mounted up. Check back at the photo to show how the fire ring installs, it’s the small circular spacer that fits against the actual valve. The more narrow part goes against the valve and will seat against it slightly pushing the valve up. Hardware for this is included in your hardware bag. You can also install the turbo support bracket as well. There is a stud coming off the top corner of the timing cover with a nut on it. Remove the nut and the thicker of the 2 “L” brackets is used to support the turbo. Bolt that to the stud and then you can rotate the turbo housing so the bracket bolts to the compressor housing. You will actually use the ½” compressor bolt to at tach the two. 18.
Normally we will still leave everything only snugged up till all the cold side is installed. You can
move on to the cold side and DO NOT start by installing the intercooler. You can, but you will have to leave things loose so you can have adjustment. Normally we start at the outlet of the compressor and work our way toward the inlet of the intercooler. Then move to the throttle body and work our way back to the outlet of the intercooler. The inlet of the intercooler on this kit is the lower inlet and the outlet will be the upper port. Most of the issues are here when people mount the intercooler first and then say our piping is off. This way if you run the tubing first, you will know exactly where the intercooler must sit. The brackets for the intercooler mounting are in the kit and also laser cut. It’s a 2piece bracket and you will find the hardware in the supplied kit. The main bracket bolts to the hood hinge and use the actual hood hinge bolt to secure the upper portion. 19.
The top intercooler port(outlet) will use the 90 degree elbow and point downwards. The other
pipes are pretty self-explanatory and you will use the 2.5 – 3” reducer where the outlet pipe goes through the inner fender by the ABS unit. You may have to loosen the bracket on the ABS module to allow the pipe to fit up through. Its very tight but it’s the way it has to be since we didn’t want to require any cutting on the car.
22.
As for the drain, you can cut the hose coming from the turbo drain plate to length attaching it
to the bung in the pan. The drain is essential to the longevity of the turbo and keeping it in great working condition. 23.
Once the oil lines are squared away, its time to move on to the upper cooling pipe. As you see
we just cut the section of the hose where it mounts to the port on the motor and coming out of the radiator. The metal radiator tube is included and we also supply you new hose clamps in the kit to attach and secure this pipe. Also at this time you will find the Thermo-cool insulator tube. You can use this to cover the overflow tube that runs close to the turbo and along the fan in the front. You disconnect the hose from the overflow and slip this sleeve over it. Normally we will also use a few plastic ties to pull it away from anything hot and against the fan housing to prevent any premature hose damage. Be sure to keep an eye on this and be sure its always secure, your downpipe, turbo, etc will burn this hose if you don’t secure it out of the way.
24.
Instal maf meter or hpx/ba5000 in the welded on flange.A lso since your wiring may be short,
you may end up having to exte nd those 6 maf wires so they will reach the new blow through meter position. 25.
Also you will notice your stock location of the power steering reservoir will have to change.
There is already a hole in the driver side strut tower and we use the thinner “L” shaped bracket to relocate the tank. There is a supplied 6mm bolt to secure the bracket to the car and also the larger allen bolt to secure the reservoir to the bracket. The hoses will now be too short and you will fine 2 – 3/8” stainless extensions and 2- rubber hoses. This will allow you to extend the hoses to now reach the reservoir in its new location.
26. 27.
Install the injectors and fuel system. Now basically the complete kit is squared away, you can install the wastegate, blow off valve
and vacuum lines to each. Connect the banjo fitting to the lower/side port on the wastegate as well before installing as it would be very difficult to do so after its on the car. The top port will remain open and that is normal. As for vacuum supply, we supply you the parts to tee off the vacuum source right along the driver side fuel rail. You will have the vacuum hose, tee’s and barbs needed and run a line to the wastegate and one to the blow off valve. 28.
WASTEGATE SPRINGS: There aredifferent springs. The stock wastegate normally is right around
6psi. This can vary so once you get it on your car, do a partial pull to see what boost level you are working with. Then if you need more, the yellow spring can add around 2psi, red 3psi, and blue 5psi. Once again, these are all estimates and you need to test with each to verify what boost it m akes on your application
Disclamer: This packet is for educational purposes we will not be held responsible for any damage to the vehicle or persons due to improperly installing the product, personal injury or death. Products are inspected and strict quality control is enforced before kits are shipped out and in perfect working order. The kits are to be installed by professional mechanics and all warranties are voided unless this is followed. Purchaser of the kit assumes all responsibility and will be liable for the car and anyone involved in the use of this kit. Our warranty covers the hotside of the kit for 1 year and comp covers the turbo for 1 year as well.
