112407379-Textile-Denim-Finishes-02-12-11

DENIM WASHES AND
FABRIC FINISHES




BY:
JAYATI CHADHHA
JHARNA KANNAN
KAJAL SHAKYA
KALITA LAMBA
KINJAL CHAWLA
MOHAMMAD MUMTAZ






TEXTILE FINISHING
WHAT ARE FINISHES

 Any operation that improves the appearance and/or
usefulness of fabric after it leaves the loom or knitting
machine.

 Finishing is the final series of operations that produces
finished textile fabric from grey goods.

Aesthetic
Finishes

CLASSIFICATION
 Textile Finishes are classified in several ways:



Functional
Finishes
AESTHETIC FINISHES
 Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and /or hand or
drape of the fabrics.

SOME TYPES OF FINISHES
 Fulling
 Mercerization
 Napping And Sueding
 Plisse
 Shearing
 Softening
 Stiffening
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
 Functional Finishes improve the performance properties
like durability , strength etc. of the fabric ;

SOME TYPE OF FINISHES
 Antimicrobial/Antiseptic
 Antistatic
 Crease resistant
 Durable Press
 Flame Resistant
 Mothproof
 Shrinkage Control
 Soil Release
 Water Proof/Repellant



Temporary
Permanent
Semi
Permanent
THERE ARE 3 TYPES OF FINISHING
TEMPORARY FINISHES
 A finish which is not stable and goes off after the first wash
is known as temporary finish and these finishes disappears
during subsequent washing and usage.

e.g
 Calendering
 Embossing
 Starching
 Softening
PERMANENT FINISHES
 If the finishing effect in the fabric does not disappear and
remains unaffected through all the conditions of wear and
washing treatments, then the finish is said to be permanent
finish.

e.g.

 Resin Finish
 Water Proof
 Flame Proof
SEMI PERMANENT FINISHES
 A Finishing on the fabric is said to be semi permanent
finish if it is stable to more than 5 to 10 washes and not
afterwards.

e.g.
 Schreiner Calendering
 Buckram Finish
Chemical
Finishes
Mechanical
Finishes
FINISHES CAN BE FURTHER CLASSIFIED INTO.
CHEMICAL FINISHES
 Chemical finishes are usually applied to fabric by padding
followed by curing and drying. These are also called as wet
Finishes.

 Stiff and transparent
 Flame Retardant
 Soil Release
 Water Proof
 Crease Resistance
 Softening
MECHANICAL FINISHES
 Mechanical Finishes usually involved specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in fabric
appearance. This is also known as dry finish.

 Calendering
 Raising
 Sanforising
 Milling



CALENDERING
 Calendering may be defined as the modification of the
surface of a fabric by the action of heat and pressure.

 The finish is obtained by passing the fabric between heated
rotating rollers when both speed of rotation and pressure
applied are variable.

 The surface of rollers can be either smooth or engraved to
provide the appropriate finish to fabric.

 The rollers may be made of various material from hardened
steel to elastic thermoplastic.
OBJECTIVES OF CALENDERING

 To improve the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky
touch to the fabric
 To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness
 To reduce the air permeability by closing the threads
 To increase the lustre
 To reduce the yarn slippage
 To increase the opacity of the fabric
 Surface patterning by embossing

TYPES OF CALENDERING

 Swissing or normal gloss or simple calendering
 Chintz or glazing or friction Calendering
 Cire Calendering
 Embossed Calendering
 Moiré Calendering
 Schrenier Calendering
CALENDERING
MACHINES
SAMPLES

FINISH ENHANCING PROCESSES

 NAPPING
 SHEARING,
 BRUSHING,
 SINGEING,
 BEETLING,
 DECATING,
 TENTERING,
 EMBOSSING,





 CALENDERING OR
PRESSING,
 MOIRÉING,
 CREPING,
 GLAZING,
 POLISHING, AND
 OPTICAL BRIGHTENING.

TREATMENTS ENHANCING APPEARANCE INCLUDE PROCESSES
SUCH AS
NAPPING


 Napping is a process that may be applied to woollens,
cottons, spun silks, and spun rayons, including both
woven and knitted types, to raise a velvety, soft surface.

 The process involves passing the fabric over revolving
cylinders covered with fine wires that lift the short, loose
fibres, usually from the weft yarns, to the surface,
forming a nap. The process, which increases warmth, is
frequently applied to woollens and worsteds and also to
blankets.

SHEARING

 Shearing cuts the raised nap to a uniform height and is
used for the same purpose on pile fabrics.

 Shearing machines operate much like rotary lawn
mowers, and the amount of shearing depends upon the
desired height of the nap or pile, with such fabrics as
gabardine receiving very close shearing.

 Shearing may also be applied to create stripes and other
patterns by varying surface height


BRUSHING



 This process, applied to a wide variety of fabrics, is
usually accomplished by bristle-covered rollers.

 The process is used to remove loose threads and short
fibre ends from smooth-surfaced fabrics and is also used
to raise a nap on knits and woven fabrics.

 Brushing is frequently applied to fabrics after shearing,
removing the cut fibres that have fallen into the nap.

SINGEING

 Also called gassing, singeing is a process applied to
both yarns and fabrics to produce an even surface by
burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz.
 This is accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a
gas flame or heated copper plates at a speed sufficient
to burn away the protruding material without
scorching or burning the yarn or fabric.
 Singeing is usually followed by passing the treated
material over a wet surface to assure that any
smoldering is halted.


 Singeing
machines

BEETLING





 Beetling is a process applied to linen fabrics and to cotton
fabrics made to resemble linen to produce a hard, flat
surface with high lustre and also to make texture less
porous.

 In this process, the fabric, dampened and wound around
an iron cylinder, is passed through a machine in which it
is pounded with heavy wooden mallets.
DECATING


 Decating is a process applied to woollens and worsteds,
man-made and blended fibre fabrics, and various types of
knits.

 It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or
develop lustre and softer hand and to even the set and
grain of certain fabrics. When applied to double knits it
imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage.

 In wet decating, which gives a subtle lustre, or bloom,
fabric under tension is steamed by passing it over
perforated cylinders


TENTERING



 These are final processes applied to set the warp and weft of woven
fabrics at right angles to each other, and to stretch and set the fabric
to its final dimensions.
 Tentering stretches width under tension by the use of a tenter frame,
consisting of chains fitted with pins or clips to hold the selvages of
the fabric, and travelling on tracks.

 As the fabric passes through the heated chamber, creases and
wrinkles are removed, the weave is straightened, and the fabric is
dried to its final size.
 When the process is applied to wet wools it is called crabbing;
Tentering / stentering
machines

CREPING


 A crepe effect may be achieved by finishing. In one method,
which is not permanent, the cloth is passed, in the presence of
steam, between hot rollers filled with indentations producing
waved and puckered areas.

 In the more permanent caustic soda method, a caustic soda
paste is rolled onto the fabric in a patterned form; or a resist
paste may be applied to areas to remain unpuckered and the
entire fabric then immersed in caustic soda.

 The treated areas shrink, and the untreated areas pucker. If the
pattern is applied in the form of stripes, the effect is called
plissé; an allover design produces blister crepe.

CREPE EFFECT


RAISING
 1. Napping
Using wire-covered rolls to "dig out" individual fiber ends
to the surface

 2. Sueding
Using abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.)
to produce shorter pile surface - does cause an apparent
shade change.
Special type of raised surface fabric is corduroy
Sueding, sanding- creates softer hand of fabric.

SUEDE

SHEARING

 Use of rotary blade to trim raised surfaces to a uniform
height.

 Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce
pattern effects on the surface.

 This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and
also reduces the pilling tendency.

 For pile fabrics, napped fabrics.


MERCERISATION
 Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives
fabric a lustrous appearance. The process is applied to materials like
cotton or hemp.

 The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood,
Lancashire, England, who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide.

 Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre. The
structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose.
Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre.
This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance, and
gives the fiber a softer feel.
 The treatment of cellulosic fabric with caustic to improve dye-ability
and handle.

 The treatment of cellulosic textiles in yam or fabric form with a
concentrated solution of caustic alkali whereby the fibres are swollen,
the strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased,
and the handle is modified.

 A treatment of yarns or fabrics with caustic alkali, in which fibres are
swollen and stretched to increase lustre in the finished product.



Parchmentizing
 Treatment of cotton
fabrics with sulfuric acid.
 The fabric is transparent,
sheer, stiff.
 Parchmentizing results in
a permanent stiffness




FUNCTIONAL FINISHES
 All finishes that change a fabric's properties are applied chemically.

 Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities
desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an
undesirable property to a more desirable one.

 Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric. The label
may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric.

 Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric
include:


 Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres
(cotton, linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily. Permanent Press
fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also
help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and
cleaning.

• Stabilization Finishes –
Sanforized indicates that a fabric has been treated so that it will
shrink or stretch not more than 1 or 2%. Preshrunk fabrics have been
preshrunk to a certain extent but still may shrink considerably

Pilling
ANTI-PILLING FINISHES:


 Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with
spun yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics.
 Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of
fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross
section and due to their higher tensile strength and
abrasion resistance, the pills formed take a long time to
be abraded by wear.
 With knit fabric, two more problems occur, viz., "picking"
where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out
of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a
pointed or rough object.
PERMANENT ANTI-STATIC EFFECTS:


• Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static
charge build up & give a natural feel.
• Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert
and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing
on polyester goods.

• In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a
good soil release action which is as permanent as the
anti-static effect.

• Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being
curable at moderate temperatures

NON-SLIP FINISHES:


• Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are
particularly prone to slip because of their surface smoothness
when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no
loner attractive.
• To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a
rougher surface.
• Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite
useful and they are used with advantage in combination with
latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent
effect along with simultaneous improvement in resistance to
pilling or snagging.
• These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft and
smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water
repellency

FIRE RESISTANT FINISHES:


 With synthetic fiber which melt on igniting by a flame,
the molten moss is itself quite dangerous and a fire
resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses.

 Polyester fabrics can be made flame resistant by
treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble
2,3-dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence.

 A semi-permanent effect can be produced by treating
with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated
phosphoric acid esters.

ANTI-MICROBIAL FINISHES:



 With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other
materials in public places, anti-microbial finishes have assumed
importance.
• Anti microbial finish Eco-friendly anti microbial finishing agent for
cotton fabrics & Garments.Useful for eliminating bacterial growth
due to sweat.

• Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols,
quaternary ammonium compounds, organo-silver and tin
compounds which can be applied as solutions or dispersions.

• Mothproofing Finishes protect protein-containing fibres, such as
wool, from being attacked by moths, carpet beetles and other insects.



 Waterproof Finishes -allows no water to penetrate,
but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture
next to the body. Recently, fabrics have been developed
that are waterproof, yet are also breathable
 Water-Repellent Finishes - Water-repellent finishes
resist wetting. If the fabric becomes very wet, water will
eventually pass through. Applied to fabrics found in
raincoats, all-weather coats, hats, capes, umbrellas and
shower curtains

FEW OTHER FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

 Stain and Soil Resistant Finishes - prevent soil and
stains from being attracted to fabrics.
 Such finishes may be resistant to oil-bourne or water-
bourne soil and stains or both.
 Stain and soil resistant finishes can be applied to fabrics
used in clothing and furniture. Scotchgard is a stain and
soil resistant finish commonly applied to carpet and
furniture.
 Soil Release Finishes - These finishes attract water to
the surface of fibres during cleaning and help remove soil.



 Flame-Retardant Finishes - In Canada, laws require
that children's sleepwear and certain household
furnishings meet certain standards for flammability
resistance.
 Absorbent Finishes increase fibres' moisture holding
power. Such finishes have been applied to towels, cloth
diapers, underwear, sports shirts and other items where
moisture absorption is important


FLAME RESISTANT FINISHES

. It Regulates the flammability of all people’s clothing.

• This removes extremely hazardous materials, such as things that will
flash over quickly with only a small spark.

• Clothing will still burn, however, the amount of flame and
combustion is controlled.

• Flammability regulations cover children’s sleepwear, carpets,
mattresses,upholstered furniture.

• These are applied to combustible fabrics used in children's
sleepwear, carpets and curtains and prevent highly flammable
textiles from bursting into flame.

FRAGRANCE FINISH
• Done by Micro encapsulated silicone based aroma finishing agent.

• Microencapsulated skin moisturizers, vitamins and provitamins
are applied in garments and known as cosmeto-textiles, designed for wear
in contact with skin. These are claimed to promote a younger look,
counteracting the effects of skin ageing, e.g. as a result of exposure to UV-
radiation. There are also microencapsulated preparations for skin cooling.

Home Textiles

In other areas, household textiles such as curtains, sofas, cushions, sheets,
as well as apparel items such as gloves, socks and ties may also be treated
with microencapsulated fragrance and deodorizing finishes. The carpets
can be finished with fragrances of different kinds and can be widely used in
home textiles as well as automotive textiles.


• Sport Wears

As the ‘second skin’ of the human body, all types of textile are
excellent media for transferring fragrance compounds, and are
essential to people in sport according to their preference for them.
The type of the fragrance necessary for sports wear may be orange,
lemon which will keep them energized on the ground for longer
period.

Apparel

The scents of lavender, rose, citrus or vanilla were encapsulated into
fabrics, which proved a good way to meet important psychological
and emotional needs, as well as those of a purely physical and
sensorial nature. Thus the fabrics finished with above fragrances
can be used in apparels, leisure wear, daily wears, party wears etc.

FINISHES FOR SYNTHETIC FIBERS
• Heat Setting: Heat setting of synthetic fabrics
eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber
generated during manufacture and the new state can be
fixed by rapid cooling.

• This heat setting fixes the fabrics in the relaxed state and
thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric.

• On the other hand, post setting can be combined with
some other operations such as thermosol dyeing or
optical brightening of polyester, post setting as a final
finish is useful to get a high dimensional stability along
with desired handle.

Enzymatic finishes
 Bio-polishing: This is a process to remove the
protruding fibers of a fabric through the action an enzyme.
This enzyme selectively acts on the protruding fibers and
cease to work after finishing the work by a simple raise in
temperature of the treatment bath.


SHRINKAGE CONTROL FINISHES
 Some shrinkage expected in
the first wash after weaving,
the tensions created by being
held on the loom are relaxed.

 Sanforized, compressive
shrinkage:
Cottons are shrunk by
compressing fabric between
two blankets overfed over
heated cylinders.

 Sanfor-set, uses liquid
ammonia to make the
compressive shrinkage more
permanent

 shrinkagekage Control for
Wool
Remove the scales from the
surface of the fiber
Is a halogenation treatment that
is fabric is treated with chlorine
Or coat the scales with a
polymer
Coating is usually nylon



 Wrinkle recovery is dependent on the presence of cross links that hold
adjacent molecules together and pull them back into shape when they
are distorted


 Other problems of DP finishes- stiffness, weakness, odor, soiling and
affinity for soil, less moisture absorbent.
WRINKLE RESISTANT FINISHES

DENIM WASHING
AND FINISHES
INTRODUCTION

 Denim washing is know as one of the finishing treatment
that has vast usage because of creating special appearance
and updating clothes
 There is different methods of denim washing.

Types of
washes
Mechanical
washes
Stone wash Whiskering
Sand
blasting
Chemical
washes
Enzyme
wash
Bleach wash Acid wash spray
TYPES OF DENIM WASHES
CHEMICAL BASED
Types of
washes
Dry wash
whiskering
Laser
technology
Damage
Grinding
scrubbing
Wet wash
Stone
wash
Enzyme
wash
Bleach
wash
PPC spray
Tinting
Acid wash
ON THE
BASIS OF
WATER

1. Acid Wash-

It is done by tumbling the garments with pumic
stones presoaked in a solution of sodium
hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for
localized bleaching resulting in a non uniform
sharp blue/white contrast.

Results depends on:-
-Fabric -chemical used(conc.)
-Stone(quantity) -machine used
Chemical Washes



Limitations of acid wash:
 Tendency to be yellowish
 incomplete reduction gives create problem

Remedy:
Manganese is effectively removed during
laundering with addition of reducing agent(sodium
bisulfate,1-5gpl, 50 deg. Cent.,20mins)

2.Denim Bleach-
To decolorize the dark shade into light shade by
destroying indigo.
INDIGO --------------------------. ISATIN
(oxidative bleaching agent)
Chemicals-
sodium hypochlorite
KMnO4
Hydrogen peroxide
Discoloration produced is usually more
apparent depending :-
On strength of the bleach liquor
On bleach liquor quantity
On temperature and
On treatment time.
Drawback-
Harmful to human health and causes corrosion
to stainless steel.


3-E Bleaching concept for denim-

 Bleaching with sulphiric acid derivatives, and
recently with laccase(enzyme).
 Technology in based on a Laccase(a redox
enzyme using mol. Oxygen as electron acceptor)
and mediator.
eg. DeniLite(enzyme + PPT)
Other chemical washes-
RINSE WASH
Ozone fading
Over dye- tinting
Sun washing
Quick wash denim
Water jet fading

Vintage etc.
B. Mechanical washes-
1. Stone washing-
Pumice stones give the additional effect of a
faded or worn look

 Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1
 Dia.of stone-1-7 cm
Pumice stone
•Recommended Specification for Stones-

Moisture content-less than 5%
Surface properties-less than 5% fines
Apparent Density-0.5-0.75gm/cm3
Abrasion loss-35%
Impurities –

when exceed 10% they increase apparent density1
gm/cm3, the stone will not float in water during
process.

2. Sand blasting:-

Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an
abrasive material in granular, powdered or other
form through a nozzle at very high speed and
pressure onto specific areas of the garment
surface.
Product look
Process
3.Whiskering-(Cat's Whiskers)
Industrially done with laser, sandblasting,
machine sanding, hand sanding and rods.
 'knee whiskers' -whiskers on the sides of knees
 ‘honeycombs' -crease marks on the back of the
knee



Whiskers on skirt
honeycom
b
 Other mechanical washes-
LASER TECHNOLOGY
SUPER STONEWASH
Scrapping
Grindings-
grinding
Laser
technology
Scrubbing
Tagging on pockets
1.www.fibre2fashion.com
2.Washing Report of Arvind Mills
3.Denim garment washing process-ATIRA
4.Denim garment processing –Express Textile
5.Garment washing & finishing- Pearl Academy
of Fashion