48322795 About Shampoo

About Shampoo
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How Shampoo Works
Shampoos are formulated with cleansing agents called surfactants %a type of detergent&, which
are small molecules that have 'water-attracting heads' and 'oil-attracting tails'.
When you mix shampoo with water and apply it to your hair, lather is formed. #his happens
when the water-attracting molecules in the shampoo are drawn towards the water, and the oil-
attracting molecules are drawn towards the oil and grease on the scalp %as well as other dirt
and sin particles in the hair&.
#he lathering action creates a push-and-pull effect on the oil and grease, essentially lifting it
from the hair. Shampoo cleanses by stripping sebum %oil secreted from hair follicles& from the
hair. While sebum is a necessary element of the hair because it provides a protective barrier
on each individual strand, it also attracts and collects flaes, styling products, and dirt
%especially around the hairline&. When shampoo removes sebum, it also removes all of the
unwanted residues from the hair.
(While shampoos and soaps both contain surfactants, you should avoid using soap to wash
your hair. #he surfactants found in soap bind and remove oils too much, maing it harmful to
your hair. Shampoo uses a different class of surfactants, which are balanced in order to
remove )ust the right amount of oil from the hair.
Shampoo is a hair care product used for the removal of oils, dirt, sin particles, dandruff,
environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair. #he
goal is to remove the unwanted build-up without stripping out so much sebum as to mae hair
unmanageable. *ven though most modern shampoos include a conditioning component,
shampooing is frequently followed by the use of conditioners which ease combing and styling.
History
#he word shampoo in *nglish is derived from +indi chāmpo %चचँपप,t ʃ- ːpo ː.&,
,/.
and dates to
/012.
,2.
#he +indi word referred to head massage, usually with some form of hair oil.
,3.
Similar
words also occur in other 4orth 5ndian languages. #he word and the service of head massage
were introduced to 6ritain by a 6engali entrepreneur Sae !ean 7ahomed. !ean 7ahomed
introduced the practice to 6asil 8ochrane"s vapour baths while woring there in 9ondon in the
early /:th century, and later, together with his 5rish wife, opened '7ahomed"s Steam and
;apour Sea Water 7edicated 6aths' in 6righton, *ngland. +is baths were lie #urish baths
where clients received an 5ndian treatment of champi %shampooing&, meaning therapeutic
massage. +e was appointed <Shampooing Surgeon= to both >eorge 5; and William 5;.
,?.
5n the /@1As, the meaning of the word shifted from the sense of massage to that of applying
soap to the hair.
,B.
*arlier, ordinary soap had been used for washing hair.
,1.
+owever, the dull
film soap left on the hair made it uncomfortable, irritating, and unhealthy looing.
!uring the early stages of shampoo, *nglish hair stylists boiled shaved soap in water and
added herbs to give the hair shine and fragrance. Casey +ebert was the first nown maer of
shampoo, and the origin is currently attributed to him. 8ommercially made shampoo was
available from the turn of the 2Ath century.
D /:/? ad for 8anthrox Shampoo in American Magazine showed young women at camp
washing their hair with 8anthrox in a laeE magaFine ads in /:/? by Gexall featured +armony
+air 6eautifier and Shampoo.
,0.
Originally, soap and shampoo were very similar productsE both containing the same naturally-
derived surfactants, a type of detergent. 7odern shampoo as it is nown today was first
introduced in the /:3As with Drene, the first shampoo with synthetic surfactants.
,@.
Commonly used ingredients
• Dmmonium chloride
• Dmmonium lauryl sulfate
• >lycol
• Sodium laureth sulfate is derived from coconut oils and is used to soften water and
create a lather. #here was some concern over this particular ingredient circa /::@ about
this chemical being a carcinogen, but that has been disproved.
• Sodium lauryl sulfate
• Sodium 9auroamphoacetate is naturally derived from coconut oils and is used as a
cleanser and counter-irritant. #his is the ingredient that maes the product tear-free.
• $olysorbate 2A is a mild surfactant that is used to solubiliFe fragrance oils and essential
oilsE meaning it causes liquid to spread across and penetrate the surface of a solid %i.e.
your hair&.
• $olysorbate @A %or >lycol& is used to emulsify %or disperse& oils in water %so the oils
don=t float on top lie 5talian salad dressing&.
• $*>-/BA !istearate is a simple thicener.
• 8itric Dcid is naturally derived from citrus fruits and is used as an antioxidant to preserve
the oils in the product. While it is a severe eye-irritant, the Sodium 9auroamphoacetate
counteracts that property. 8itric acid is used to ad)ust the p+ down to B.B %ish&. 5t is a
fairly wea acid which maes the ad)ustment easier. Shampoos usually are at p+ B.B
because at slightly acidic p+ the scales on a hair follicle lay flat maing the hair feel
smooth and loo shiny. it also has a small amount of preservative action. 8itric acid as
opposed to any other acid will prevent bacterial growth.
• Huaternium-/B is used as a bacterialIfungicidal preservative.
• $olyquaternium-/A is a totally different chemical than Huaternium-/B. #his chemical
acts as the conditioning ingredient, providing moisture and fullness to the hair.
• !i-$$>-2 myreth-/A adipate is a water-dispersible emollient that forms clear solutions
with surfactant systems
Ingredient and functional claims
5n the JSD, the Food and !rug Ddministration %F!D& mandates that shampoo containers
accurately list ingredients. #he government further regulates what shampoo manufacturers can
and cannot claim as any associated benefit. Shampoo producers often use these regulations
to challenge mareting claims made by competitors, helping to enforce these regulations.
While the claims may be substantiated however, the testing methods and details of such
claims are not as straightforward. For example, many products are purported to protect hair
from damage due to ultraviolet radiation. While the ingredient responsible for this protection
does bloc J;, it is not often present in a high enough concentration to be effective. #he 4orth
Dmerican +air Gesearch Society has a program to certify functional claims based on third
party testing. Shampoos made for treating medical conditions such as dandruff are regulated
as O#8 drugs
,/A.
in the JS maretplace. 5n other parts of the world such as the *J, there is a
requirement for the anti-dandruff claim to be substantiated, but it is not considered to be a
medical problem.
Vitamins and amino acids
#he effectiveness of vitamins, amino acids and 'pro-vitamins' to shampoo is also largely
debatable. ;itamins are substances that are essential for chemical processes that occur within
the body, chiefly inside living cells and in the bloodstream. #hey cannot have the same
beneficial effects on dead tissues lie grown hair. +owever, the physical properties of some
vitamins %lie vitamin * oil or panthenol& would have a temporary cosmetic effect on the hair
shaft while not having any bioactivity. #he proteins that mae up the strand are chains of amino
acids connected in very specific sequences, and are tightly paced in interlocing
arrangements.
$roteins are unable to penetrate the sin or the hair, and even if they stic to the outside of the
hair they will not help strengthen it. Dmino acids cannot penetrate cells through the sin, eitherE
they may be able to enter the dead strands, but without the complex protein-building
machinery of the living cells they will not actually return damaged hair proteins to their
undamaged state.
Raw Materials
4ew shampoos are initially created by cosmetic chemists in the laboratory. #hese scientists
begin by determining what characteristics the shampoo formula will have. #hey must decide on
aesthetic features such as how thic it should be, what color it will be, and what it will smell
lie. #hey also consider performance attributes, such as how well it cleans, what the foam
loos lie, and how irritating it will be. 8onsumer testing often helps determine what these
characteristics should be.
Once the features of the shampoo are identified, a formula is created in the laboratory. #hese
initial batches are made in small beaers using various ingredients. 5n the personal care
industry, nearly all of the ingredients that can be used are classified by the 8osmetic, #oiletry,
and Fragrance Dssociation %8#FD& in the governmentally approved collection nown as the
5nternational 4omenclature of 8osmetic 5ngredients %5485&. #he more important ingredients in
shampoo formulations are water, detergents, foam boosters, thiceners, conditioning agents,
preservatives, modifiers, and special additives.
Water
#he primary ingredient in all shampoos is water, typically maing up about 0A-@AK of the entire
formula. !eioniFed water, which is specially treated to remove various particles and ions, is
used in shampoos. #he source of the water can be underground wells, laes, or rivers.
Detergents
#he next most abundant ingredients in shampoos are the primary detergents. #hese materials,
also nown as surfactants, are the cleansing ingredients in shampoos.
Surfactants are surface active ingredients, meaning they can interact with a surface. #he
chemical nature of a surfactant allows it to surround and trap oily materials from surfaces. One
portion of the molecule is oil compatible %soluble& while the other is water soluble. When a
shampoo is applied to hair or textiles, the oil soluble portion aligns with the oily materials while
the water soluble portion aligns in the water layer. When a number of surfactant molecules line
up lie this, they form a structure nown as a micelle. #his micelle has oil trapped in the middle
and can be washed away with water, thus giving the shampoo its cleansing power.
Surfactants are derived from compounds nown as fatty acids. Fatty acids are naturally
occurring materials which are found in various plant and animal sources. #he materials used
most often to mae the surfactants used in shampoos are extracted from coconut oil, palm
ernel oil, and soy bean oil. Some common primary detergents used in shampoos are
ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and sodium lauryl ether sulfate.
Foam boosters
5n addition to cleansing surfactants, other types of surfactants are added to shampoos to
improve the foaming characteristics of the formulation. #hese materials, called alanolamides,
help increase the amount of foam and the siFe of the bubbles. 9ie primary detergents, they
are also derived from fatty acids and have both water soluble and oil soluble characteristics.
#ypical materials include lauramide !*D or cocamide !*D.
Thickeners
#o some extent, the alanolamides that mae shampoos foam also mae the formulations
thicer. +owever, other materials are also used to increase the viscosity. For example,
methylcellulose, derived from plant cellulose, is included in shampoos to mae them thicer.
Sodium chloride %salt& also can be used to increase shampoo thicness.
Conditioning agents
Some materials are also added to shampoos to offset the sometimes harsh effect of
surfactants on hair and fabrics. #ypical conditioning agents include polymers, silicones, and
quaternary agents. *ach of these compounds deposit on the surface of the hair and improve
its feel, softness, and combability, while reducing static charge. Shampoos that specifically
feature conditioning as a benefit are called 2-in-/ shampoos because they clean and condition
hair in the same step. *xamples of conditioning agents include guar hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride which is a polymer, dimethicone which is a silicone, and quatemium @A, a quatemary
agent.
Preseraties
Since shampoos are made from water and organic compounds, contamination from bacteria
and other microbes is possible. $reservatives are added to prevent such growth. #wo of the
most common preservatives used in shampoos are !7!7 hydantoin and methylparaben.
Modifiers
Other ingredients are added to shampoo formulas to modify specific characteristics. Opacifiers
are added to mae the formula opaque and give it a pearly loo. 7aterials nown as
sequestering agents are added to offset the dulling effects of hard water. Dcids or bases such
as citric acid or sodium hydroxide are added to ad)ust the p+ of a shampoo so the detergents
will provide optimal cleaning.
!"ecial addities
One of the primary factors that influence the purchase of a shampoo is its color and odor. #o
modify these characteristics, manufacturers add fragrance oils and governmentally approved
and certified F!L8 dyes. Other special additives can also have a similar effect. 4atural
materials such as botanical extracts, natural oils, proteins, and vitamins all impart special
qualities and help sell shampoos. Ddditives such as Finc pyrithione are included to address the
problem of dandruff. Other additives are dyes which can color the hair.
The Manufacturing
Process
Dfter a shampoo formula is developed, it is tested to ensure that its qualities will minimally
change over time. #his type of testing, called stability testing, is primarily used to detect
physical changes in such things as color, odor, and thicness. 5t can
also provide information about other changes, lie microbial contamination and performance
differences. #his testing is done to ensure that the bottle of shampoo that is on the store
shelves will perform )ust lie the bottle created in the laboratory.
#he manufacturing process can be broen down into two steps. First a large batch of shampoo
is made, and then the batch is pacaged in individual bottles.
Com"ounding
• / 9arge batches of shampoo are made in a designated area of the manufacturing plant.
+ere worers, nown as compounders, follow the formula instructions to mae batches
that can be 3,AAA gal %//,AAA /& or more. Gaw materials, which are typically provided in
drums as large as BB gal %2AA /& or in BA-lb %23-g& bags, are delivered to the
compounding area via forlift trucs. #hey are poured into the batch tan and thoroughly
mixed.
• 2 !epending on the formula, these batches can be heated and cooled as necessary to
help the raw materials combine more quicly. Some raw materials such as water or the
primary detergents are pumped and metered directly into the batch tan.
#hese materials are added simply by pressing a button on computeriFed controls.
#hese controls also regulate the mixing speeds and the heating and cooling rates.
!epending on the siFe and type of shampoo, maing a 3,AAA-gal %//,AAA-/& batch can
tae anywhere from one to four hours.
#uality control check
• 3 Dfter all the ingredients are added to the batch, a sample is taen to the Huality
8ontrol %H8& lab for testing. $hysical characteristics are checed to mae sure the
batch adheres to the specifications outlined in the formula instructions. #he H8 group
runs tests such as p+ determination, viscosity checs, and appearance and odor
evaluations. #hey can also chec the amount of detergent that is in the formula and
whether there is enough preservative. 5f the batch is found to be 'out of spec,'
ad)ustments can be made. For instance, acids or bases can be added to ad)ust the p+,
or salt can be added to modify the viscosity. 8olors can also be ad)usted by adding
more dye.
• ? Dfter a batch is approved by H8, it is pumped out of the main batch tan into a holding
tan where it can be stored until the filling lines are ready. From the holding tan it gets
pumped into the filler, which is made up of a carousel of piston filling heads.
Filling
• B Dt the start of the filling line, empty bottles are put in a large bin called a hopper. +ere,
the bottles are physically manipulated until they are correctly oriented and standing
upright. #hey are then moved along a conveyor belt to the filling carousel, which holds
the shampoo.
• 1 #he filling carousel is made up of a series of piston filling heads that are calibrated to
deliver exactly the correct amount of shampoo into the bottles. Ds the bottles move
through this section of the filling line, they are filled with shampoo.
• 0 From here the bottles move to the capping machine. 7uch lie the bin that holds the
empty bottles, the caps are also put in a hopper and then correctly aligned. Ds the
bottles move by the caps are put on and twisted tight.
• @ Dfter the caps are put on, the bottles move to the labeling machines %if necessary&.
!epending on the type of labels, they can either be stuc on using adhesives or heat
pressed. 9abels are stuc to the bottles as they pass by.
• : From the labeling area, the bottles move to the boxing area, where they are put into
boxes, typically a doFen at a time. #hese boxes are then staced onto pallets and
hauled away in large trucs to distributors. $roduction lines lie this can move at speeds
of about 2AA bottles a minute or more.
#uality Control
5n addition to the initial checs to mae sure the product meets specifications, other quality
control checs are made. For example, line inspectors watch the bottles at specific points on
the filling line to mae sure everything loos right. #hey notice things lie fill levels, label
placement, and whether the cap is on correctly. #he product is also routinely checed to see if
there has been any microbial contamination. #his is done by taing a bottle off the filling line
and sending it to the H8 lab. +ere, a small amount of the shampoo product is smeared onto a
plate and inoculated with bacteria and other organisms to see if they grow. Ddditionally, the
pacaging is also checed to see if it meets specifications. #hings such as bottle thicness,
appearance, and bottle weight are all checed.
The Future
8onsumer product corporations will continue to manufacture new types of shampoos. #hese
new formulas will be driven by ever-changing consumer desires and developing chemical
technology. 8urrently, consumers lie multi-functional shampoos, such as 2-in-5 shampoos,
which provide cleansing and conditioning in one step, or shampoos that aid in styling. 4ew
shampoos will liely provide improved conditioning, styling, and coloring while cleaning the
hair. Shampoo technology will also improve as new ingredients are developed by raw material
suppliers. Some important advances are being made in the development of compounds such
as polymers, silicones, and surfactants. #hese materials will be less irritating, less expensive,
more environmentally friendly, and also provide greater functionality and performance.
Shampoo manufacturer doubles capacity with cost-effective impeller mixing technology
JC hair products company doubles capacity with cost efficient agitator upgrade
With less finance available, the ability to fund new equipment to increase manufacturing
capacity has caused issues for many JC producers.
#he experience of the JC=s largest own brand manufacturer of hair products suggests that
through close co-operation and using the expertise of a leading agitator producer such as
*CD#O, cost-effective solutions with short GO5 periods are possible. Jsing an existing vessel
and by upgrading the agitator assembly, +erb JC will see a return on its investment in under
eight months, reduce energy consumption and solve product aeration issues.
Since its foundation in /::A, +erb JC 9td has manufactured a range of products that are safer
for hairdressers to use than traditional ammonia-based colours. >rowing demand meant the
firm needed to increase its capacity cost effectively. #he firm was using a two tonne vessel to
manufacture shampoos and cream peroxides. MOur shampoo was taing three days to mix and
is the most challenging product to produce,N says 7ar !=Drcy, +erb JC=s operations manager.
MOur existing mixing equipment with large blade impellers was also leaving too much air in the
product, causing delays at the bottling stage.N #he firm experimented with recirculation pumps
but the increased power consumption, product aeration and inconsistent results led the firm to
loo at improving the agitator.
Since /:33, *CD#O 7ixing #echnology has been developing mixing technologies for a range
of industries including food, pharmaceutical, petrochemical and cosmetics. #he firm recently
developed the ability to accurately simulate mixing performance using scale models with a
three litre model able to reproduce the process of a ?AAA litre vessel. M#he most striing aspect
of complex mixing operations is the extent to which conditions can change during the course of
production,N says *CD#O JC=s managing director Oohn Smith. M#here are large viscosity
ranges from minimum shear to intensive dispersion. Jsing a range of tools including 8F!, we
are able to identify improvements, many of them quic to implement.N
Dccording to *CD#O, ;iscoprop agitators are frequently the answer in demanding process
conditions such as these. M#hey can mae it possible to combine previously separate process
steps in a single vessel, reducing cost,N adds Smith. *CD#O=s *7-based solution offers +erb
JC a variable speed with the opportunity to also reverse direction, <pulling= liquids off the floor
of the vessel and distributing them evenly through the batch. M;ariable speed gives the
operator better control,N suggests Smith. MDnd for smaller batch siFes it helps minimise
splashing.N
#he results achieved provided an immediate benefit. MWe have been able to reduce process
time by BA percent,N says factory manager 6rian 8rouch. MWe can achieve /AA,AAA tonnes per
manufacturing year. 5n addition the new process is removing much of the air, reducing bottling
time and the need for a recirculation pump.N
#he multi stage ;iscoprop impellers helped to solve another specific issue +erb JC had been
facing. 8orrecting the p+ value is normally done by adding an ad)uster at the end of the
process but being thinner and lighter, this tended to float on the liquid surface. #ypically, more
would be added to ensure consistent values through the batch. *CD#O=s powerful multistage
impellers distribute the ad)uster through the entire batch resulting in better consistency from
the top to the bottom of the vessel. M7ixing different densities of constituents can be a real
issue, increasing mixing time that is not value added,N suggests Smith.
+erb JC is benefitting in other ways that it hadn=t expected. M#he new impellers are much
smaller,N says 8rouch. M#his maes the tan more accessible for removing the product and a
shorter cleaning process reduces changeover times when we switch from shampoo to
activators.N
+erb JC is already taling to *CD#O about optimising #an #wo. MWe achieved what we
wanted to do with #an One,N says !=Drcy. M#he customer support is second to none and is
eeping us ahead of the competition who are finally realising that natural products can wor in
the salon.N