9 Architectural Photography Tips

9 Architectural
Photography Tips
A Post By: Natalie Denton (nee Johnson)
Classical or contemporary; architectural
photography can be as challenging as it is
rewarding. Here are some pointers to help
you get started…

Ice Skating at Rockefeller Center – by Stuck in Customs
1. Be sensitive to the direction of light as this
can increase contrast, shadows, textures
and reflections. High levels of contrast can
fool cameras into exposing the scene
incorrectly, but shooters can easily
overcome this by applying exposure
compensation. Another trick is to bracket
shots at different exposure values (exposing
one for the highlights, one for the midtones
and one for the shadows) and later merge
them in a dedicated HDR program (such
as Photomatix).
2. A fish eye or wide-angle lens (and focal
length) is ideal for this genre as it enables
photographers to frame the entire building
within its environment. However sometimes
your glass may not be able to encompass
the whole scene, which is where the helpful
panoramic format can come in handy. Many
compacts now offer a specific Scene mode
for stitching together several shots in
camera, but the same effect can be
achieved post-shoot with dedicated
panoramic software such as; as Hugin or
PTgui if you are shooting with a DSLR.
3. We are told it’s what’s on the inside that
counts and sure enough architecture
photography isn’t restricted to the facia of a
building. It can be difficult to correctly white
balance an interior setting, especially ones
that are reliant on various forms of artificial
lighting, so remember to compensate
accordingly in the White Balance menu or
take a reading from a grey card. Interior
shots in older buildings tend to be more
irksome because they traditionally feature
small windows and doors – thus lack natural
light. Try using a tripod and executing a
long-exposure and remember you could
always utilise an ND filter to stop highlights
being blown out when shooting in the day.
Alternatively you could use supplementary
lighting, such as a diffused flash but be
careful as this may rob the scene of its
atmosphere and detail.
4. When the sun goes down a new form of
architectural photographer can surface. To
shoot a structure as a silhouette during
sunset, position the architecture between
yourself and the sun. Make sure the flash is
deactivated and expose for the sky. If the
foreground is too light set the exposure
compensation to a negative value to darken
it. This effect can produce particularly
enigmatic results. Night shots can be very
dramatic and atmospheric too, but
remember to take them when there is still
some light and colour left in the sky as this
adds tone to the backdrop and help to
illuminate details. As before get into a good
position and set your camera on a tripod
and wait for the dazzling display of urban
lights from windows, street lights, signs – all
of these in their rainbow of neon colours will
add to the ambience. Use a wide aperture
and long exposure, and if your camera is
supported you’ll be able to employ a low
ISO to ensure details aren’t depreciated by
noise.

The Neo Monoliths of Chicago – by Stuck in Customs

5. Unlike other forms of photography,
exciting architectural images can be
produced in all weathers. A church on a
clear day may strike the viewer as pleasant
but maybe a bit bland, revisit it when there’s
a storm brewing overhead or a mist rising
from the damp earth and the results can be
altogether more intriguing. By revisiting and
shooting the same building in these various
weather conditions, photographer’s can
produce a neat portfolio of shots – maybe
select the best three and you’ll have yourself
an interest triptych.
6. Reflections add an extra dimension to
architectural images and allow the
photographer to create a canvas on which
the building can be playfully distorted. Urban
environments are littered with a multitude of
reflective surfaces, so you’ll never have to
look too far to practice, for example:
windows, water features, puddles and wet
streets, sunglasses, rivers and modern art.

Tervuren, Belgium – by fatboyke (Luc)
7. Research the reason why the architecture
exists – you’ll be surprised how a little bit of
background information can fuel a great
deal of inspiration. Ask a guide to point out
small yet interesting aspects that perhaps
go unnoticed by the general public.
Buildings of architectural merit usually
include focal points so try cropping in close
on these for frame-filling abstracts.
Furthermore you may want to include
repeated artefacts that are littered across
the exterior, for example; intricate brickwork
or chequer board windows. Use a telephoto
lens to zoom in close and don’t forget a
tripod to support those longer focal lengths.
8. The average building is far taller than the
tallest photographer so there will inevitably
be some element of distortion in an
architectural photo, but this can be
employed to create a source of tension
within the frame. Simply position yourself as
near to the base of the building as possible
and shoot straight up. If playing with
perspective isn’t for you then stand further
back and add a sense of scale to your
image by incorporating everyday objects
such as people, trees, transport and
benches, etc. To retain detail throughout the
scene plump for a small aperture (large f
stop) such as f14, alternatively try throwing
out the sharpness of either the foreground
or background by choosing a large aperture
(small f stop).

Finance Central – by HKmPUA
9. Architectural images shouldn’t just be
aesthetic and graphic; they should also
provide dynamism and movement – so play
with the lines, the light and the shadows to
provide interest and consider the hierarchy
of levels and areas. Architecture is built on
the principle of symmetry, so capturing this
symmetry will ultimately reinforce the subject
matter and hopefully strengthen the
composition. Discover the centre of the
symmetry by placing your hand between
your eye-line and construct your frame
around this centre. Alternatively break free
of the cold and sterile straight lines and
rectilinear angles and follow the principles of
nature by including curves and circles in the
form of shadows or reflections can help to
soften the structure.
Old Architecture
When photographing old architecture, a
straightforward and simple composition
usually works best, showing the natural
beauty and elegance of the building. It usually
helps to include some of the surrounding
scenery to give context to the architecture and
make it feel less cramped.

A simple composition gives a stately feel to
older buildings. Image by Stephen Murphy.
Modern Architecture
When photographing modern architecture you
can get away with using a much more
modern, abstract style. Experiment with wide
angle lenses to produce extreme perspective,
or photograph the building from unusual
angles. Also, because modern buildings are
often squeezed in very close to one another,
you can crop in tightly on the building without
making the photo feel unnatural.

A more abstract style works well when
photographing modern architecture. Image
by Rohit Mattoo.
Put Your Architecture in Context...
or Don't
The question of whether to show your
building's surroundings depends on the
situation and the message you want to
convey. Ask yourself whether putting your
building in context would add to or detract
from the photo. If the scenery compliments
your building then shoot a wider photo, but if
the surroundings don't fit with the message
you want to convey, cut them out.

Including some scenery in your photograph
can help put your subject in context. Image
by Rob Overcash.
As an example consider an old building in the
middle of a modern city. If you wanted to
capture this sense of not belonging then it
would be important to include some of the
surrounding modern buildings. But if you just
want to emphasise the beautiful old
architecture then the newer buildings would
only detract from the photo, so you should
crop them out.
Lighting
Lighting is a crucial part of architectural
photography. Of course we have no say over
the position and orientation of a building, and
lighting the building ourselves is usually out of
the question (not to mention expensive!).
Instead we have to make do with what nature
provides.
Side-front lighting usually produces the best
architecture photos. It provides plenty of
illumination and also casts long, interesting
shadows across the face of the building,
making its surface details stand out and giving
the building a more three-dimensional look.

You can bring out the texture and detail of the
architecture using front-size lighting. Image
byGianni Domenici.
Back lighting is the worst kind for architectural
photography because it creates very uniform,
dark surfaces. The best way to deal with a
backlit building is to either crop out the sky
and use a longer exposure to rescue some of
the detail, or photograph the building as a
silhouette. Alternatively you could wait until it
gets dark...
Shoot at Night
Even the most boring architecture can come
alive at night - in fact many modern buildings
and city centres are designed specifically with
night time in mind. After dark these buildings
are lit by dozens of lights which bring colour
and vibrancy, and cast fantastic shadows
across the face of the building.

Dramatic night lighting can really bring a
building to life. Image by Trey Ratcliff.
When photographing architecture at night be
sure to use a tripod and set your camera to its
lowest ISO setting to reduce digital noise to a
minimum.
Reduce Distortion by Using a
Longer Lens
If you photograph a building from too close it
can leave the walls looking distorted, as if the
whole building is bulging outwards. Although
this can be an interesting effect in itself, we
usually want to reduce it so that it doesn't
become distracting.
By using a telephoto lens and photographing
your architecture from further away you will
find that your building's walls and lines appear
acceptably straight.

Use a telephoto lens to flatten the perspective
and eliminate distortion. Image by Álvaro
Vega Fuentes.
You can also use a telephoto lens to create
some great abstract effects. By photographing
your architecture from a long way away and
using a long focal length lens, you will flatten
the perspective, making the lines of the
building appear parallel, giving your photo a
slightly surreal feel.
Pick Out Interesting Details
Most architecture is covered with small-scale
details which make fascinating photos in their
own right - from ornate windows to patterns of
rivets to decorative cornices.

Find an interesting detail to focus on, rather
than just photographing the entire building.
Image byPaul Hocksenar.
Be on the lookout for these details and crop in
tightly on them for a more intimate photograph
that conveys the character of the architecture.
It's Not Just About Buildings
When photographing architecture it is easy to
get stuck in the mindset that "architecture
equals buildings". Of course this couldn't be
far from the truth, and in fact most man-made
structures come under the architecture
umbrella - bridges, towers, windmills,
monuments, and even lamp posts. Think
laterally and see if you can find some
interesting photos that most people would
miss.

Architecture covers a lot more than just
buildings. Image by Lou Bueno.