Bike
Content
ACMEcoaching.com
presents
The Bike Buying Guide
By Acme Coach: Konrad Ribeiro
[email protected]
Introduction........................................................................................................................ 3
Safety .................................................................................................................................. 3
Helmets......................................................................................................................................4
Other safety equipment............................................................................................................4
Why does that bike look so bizarre? Types of Bikes. ........................................................ 4
Road Bikes ................................................................................................................................4
Tri/Time Trial Bikes ................................................................................................................5
Mountain bikes and hybrids....................................................................................................5
They make bikes out of fiber? Materials used to build frames. ....................................... 6
Steel ...........................................................................................................................................6
Aluminum .................................................................................................................................6
Titanium....................................................................................................................................6
Carbon Fiber ............................................................................................................................6
Turning Taiwanese: a special note on frames ........................................................................6
The shiny expensive stuff (AKA Components.) ................................................................ 7
Shimano ....................................................................................................................................7
Campagnolo (aka “Campy”) ...................................................................................................8
Others........................................................................................................................................8
Pedals ........................................................................................................................................8
Platform.............................................................................................................................................8
Toe Clips ...........................................................................................................................................9
Clipless..............................................................................................................................................9
Where the rubber meets the road, literally. Wheels.......................................................... 9
Parts of a wheel.......................................................................................................................10
Tires ................................................................................................................................................10
Rims ................................................................................................................................................10
Spokes .............................................................................................................................................10
Hubs ................................................................................................................................................10
Why a wheel isn’t a wheel......................................................................................................10
Clinchers vs. Tubeless (aka “sew-ups”)............................................................................................10
Deep dish vs. standard .....................................................................................................................10
Spokes, blades, and discs .................................................................................................................11
The 700c vs. 650c debate.................................................................................................................11
Wheel Manufacturers ............................................................................................................11
The extra stuff: aerobars, bottle holders, computers etc. ............................................... 11
Getting FIT. No, not your heart and lungs (yet), your bike!.......................................... 12
Well, that’s it. ................................................................................................................... 12
Introduction
Few things in triathlon bring about more confusion than buying a good bike. And
why not? Swimming requires just goggles and a suit; Running, a good pair of
shoes and some shorts. But one trip to a bike store can send even the most
confident newbie into a headspin! Row after row of shiny bikes with space age
materials, fancy parts, and price tags that can create some serious sticker shock.
But don’t worry! We’ll try and take away the mystery of finding a bike that’s right
for you. If you are looking for a detailed discussion of the merits of integrated
bottom brackets or a detailed analysis of the aerodynamics of foiled tubing then
this guide is NOT for you. This guide is intended for the first-time bike buyer, the
newbie to triathlon. In fact, we’ll specifically try to minimize the confusing lingo
and make this as painless as possible.
We’ll break this into a few parts and try and put them in an order that makes
sense. At the end, we’ll include some pure opinion so you know where we stand
on bikes for triathlon.
• Safety
• Types of bikes
• Materials used to build bikes
• Components
• Pedals
• Wheels
• The extra stuff
• Clothing
• Bike fitting
Yes, there is a lot to learn but don’t feel overwhelmed. All you are trying to do is
match your need and your budget to a bike that is right for you. We’ve all gone
through it. Some of our experiences were better than others. This guide is the
result of a combined 40 years of biking and bike buying experience.
You are leaving the world of $150 bikes from the local hardware store. Get ready.
Safety
Cycling is the single most dangerous activity in our sport. Until they fill all the
potholes, sweep all the debris, and ban cars from the roads, we need to keep
ourselves safe at all times! The best idea is to avoid crashes. In the real world,
however, accidents happen so you need to be ready for the moment when you
do get some road rash.
Helmets
There are three simple rules you need to follow at all times:
1. Always wear a helmet
2. Never forget your helmet
3. Helmets ALWAYS.
Skid lid, brain bucket, whatever you call it, get one that is certified to the Snell B95 standard, the toughest, most comprehensive in the industry. Visit
http://www.bhsi.org/standard.htm for the rundown on standards. Most
importantly, get one that fits. http://www.bhsi.org/fit.htm is a good primer on fitting
your helmet. As we will repeat as nauseum in this guide, fit is the key, not price.
Other safety equipment
Besides a helmet, there are some other goodies that will help “keep the rubber
side down” and will protect you if you do take a spill.
If you are riding in the dark, or even in the dawn or dusk hours, reflective wear
and flashing lights are a must. Red flashers for the rear of the bike or body and
green or white for the front side. We recommend at least two rear lights and one
for the front. These days, you can get an inexpensive LED light set for under $20
and there are dozens of options for reflective clothing. Keep in mind…the cars
are NOT looking for you so you must make your presence KNOWN.
If you do hit the deck, you want to protect your skin. Wear gloves! Natural reflex
will usually cause you to put your hands down. Biking gloves come with tough,
padded palms that will keep the scraping on your hnads to a minimum. Bicycle
clothing is usually slick and will allow you to slide, minimizing heavy contusions.
The result is the famous “road rash” that cyclists talk about: A smooth “burn” type
abrasion, usually on the hip, knee, and ankle (the contact points where your body
meets the road.) To minimize the incidence of infection, keep your legs shaved.
Yes, guys, you too. Yes, it sucks but keep this in mind: If Lance does it, you
should too. (The “Lance Would Do It” theory is a concept that we use to justify
many sacrifices we make as cyclists.)
Why does that bike look so bizarre? Types of Bikes.
Road Bikes
The most common bike on the road is, appropriately enough, the Road Bike.
These are the bikes that racers tend to use in the famous Tour de France. Many
years ago, you would have called this “the Ten Speed”, though that moniker is a
bit dated given that many Road Bikes have as many as 24+ gears. Some
common traits of the Road Bike: Comfortable to ride, relaxed “geometry” (the
angle of the seat tube. Don’t worry. Techie stuff that you can ignore), usually with
drop handlebars (as shown in the photo), designed with a priority on handling
over aerodynamics, safer on descents and in pack riding, variety of price points.
Tri/Time Trial Bikes
Steeper seat tube angle, more severe geometry, typically has foiled tubing, focus
on aerodynamics vs. comfort. Aerobars and cutting edge handle bar
configurations, often built with some amazing frame geometries such as no seat
tube, a monocoque (one piece), and beam bikes, typically trials bikes come with
a price premium.
Mountain bikes and hybrids
There are many other types of bikes that can provide a comfortable ride but will
not maximize speed. Mountain bikes are comfortable to ride, very popular and
many are very easy on the wallet. Keep in mind that knobby tires will slow you
down so if you intend to ride a mountain bike, a pair of “street slicks” or smooth
tires will improve your rolling efficiency. Suspension on mountain bikes will also
lessen speed so if you have the option, you might consider getting a “hard tail”
mountain bike, one without rear suspension.
Hybrids are a marriage of mountain bike comfort and road bike efficiency. The
tires are more narrow but still have some knobby attirbutes. Typical hybrids have
flat handlebars and a more upright sitting positions. Again, comfy but not aero!
However, for the newbie wishing to ride for reasons other than racing or training,
a hybrid could be a great solution.
They make bikes out of fiber? Materials used to build
frames.
Gone are the days when your choice of frame material was cro-moly steel or cromoly steel. Nowadays, bikes are made from a variety of materials and
combinations of those materials. The result is a wider array of choices…and
more confusion and misinformation than ever. The following links gives a
wonderful breakdown of the various types of materials:
http://www.caree.org/bike101framematerials.htm
This link gives another good bit of information and dispels some common myths
about various materials. It is geared toward the touring cyclist but the basic facts
are pertinent for all bikes: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-materials.html
Each material will have certain benefits and drawbacks. Each is prone to some
common misconceptions (titanium frames are “whippy”, steel is always heavy,
aluminum will give you a bone jarring ride, etc.) Most of these are myths. Read
the above links to dispel those.
Steel
The original frame material! Strong and stiff, can be heavy if built for super
durability, typically inexpensive
Aluminum
Light, stiff, easile shpaed into aero tubing, pretty affordable.
Titanium
Strong, flexible relative to steel or alumium, good dampening, light, hellatiously
expensive.
Carbon Fiber
Light, very soft, flexible, very expensive, poor workmanship or design can result
in failure.
Turning Taiwanese: a special note on frames
The “dirty little secret” of frames these days are that the vast majority are made in
Taiwan. That is not necessarily a bad thing. The designs are superb, often the
result of work in the US, Canada, or Europe. The workmanship on most of these
frames is very good and the materials are fine. As we’ll discuss, the major
differentiator is components, wheels, and all the other shiny stuff.
Bottom line: Buy a frame that fits your body and you budget. If you are going to
spend big bucks, spend it on the other stuff. I bought a $150 frame and fork set
that was designed in Quebec, made in Taiwan and sold used on eBay and it is a
dream set up. And not a single person will know. So don’t tell.
The shiny expensive stuff (AKA Components.)
Most frames are similar esp. at the lower price points. It is the components that
drive up the price and improve the function of the bike. Components primarily
include:
Shifters and Brakes
Derailleurs (front and rear)
Front chain rings and cranks
Cassettes (gears)
Brakes
Headsets
Chains
Pedals
Here is a picture of what we would consider a component “group” or “groupo” if
you want to say it with a Euro affectation:
In the road cycling world, there are two major players in the component market,
Shimano (Japanese) and Campagnolo (Italian). There are other minor players
who typically focus on after market or specialty pieces such as cranks, brakes or
hubs. But for integrated systems, Shimano and Campy (as it is knows) are the
choice.
As a general rule, you are best served buying a system with parts that are from
the same manufacturer and the same system e.g. It is better to buy all Ultegra or
all Centaur rather than mixing and matching. They are design as integrated
systems to work in conjunction. While they will work with other parts and
secondary manufacturers will make compatible parts, something is lost in
translation. If you can get all the same stuff…do it.
Shimano
Japanese manufacturer. Came on strong in the mid-80’s, cheaper than Campy
with a variety of levels perfect for every need. Strong, durable, available
everywhere. Great entry level stuff and easy to fix/replace.
Here are their levels of systems:
•
•
•
•
•
Sora (7 or 8-speed)
Tiagra (9-speed)
105 (9-speed)
Ultegra (9-speed)
Dura Ace (10-speed) This is what Lance has used to win 6 Tours de France.
Campagnolo (aka “Campy”)
The Italian standard bearer. Their process is highly advanced manufacturing
technique and their calling card is the place where function meets form. Record
sets the gold standard for all component groups. Is it any wonder that NASA and
satellite makers call on Campy to do specialized carbon fiber manufacturing?
Here are their group levels:
• Xenon
• Mirage
• Veloce
• Centaur
• Chorus (roughly equates to Dura Ace)
• Record (take out a second mortgage)
Others
Some component manufacturers you might see mixed in with the Shimano and
Campy stuff. Why is this done? To save money, allow lower price points for good
bikes. Some of these manufacturers make parts that are actually a step up from
the OEM parts. Others are a lateral move, most are a cost-saving step down. Ask
the sales person why these are substituted in place of the originals. Some names
you might see:
• SRAM
• FSA
• Truvativ
• Chris King
• Cane Creek
Pedals
The contact point between your foot and the bike. Obviously a critically important
choice to make when buying a bike. There are three types of pedals, as always,
each has benefits and drawbacks.
Platform
The ones you learned on. Simply a flat pedal that you stand on and go! Benefits:
Easy to use and cheap. Drawbacks, you only transfer energy when you are
pushing, meaning you lose the “scrape” along the bottom of the pedal cycle and
get no pull up the back. We do NOT recommend using platform pedals for
training or racing. They are simply too inefficient.
Toe Clips
Toe clips are the wire or plastic baskets that attach to the front of a platform
pedal. You insert your forefoot into them and cinch them down with a strap. This
is a step up from platforms and was the standard until the mid-1980’s when the
Look company transferred ski binding technology onto pedals creating the
clipless pedal (below).
Advantages: Cheap, easy to use, allows more transfer of energy from the pedal
stroke. Disadvantages, still not as efficient at transferring power as a clipless
pedal. Many people train and race with Toe Clips and for a newbie or someone
on a budget these are a great alternative to the clipless systems.
Clipless
The clipless pedal allows the rider to “click in” to their pedal and gives nearly
perfect energy transfer because the foot is locked into the pedal for 360 degrees.
There are a number of popular clipless systems. Unlike skiing which has a
standard way of attaching the boot to the binding, each has its own proprietary
interface. Names you might see:
• Look
• SPD (Shimano)
• Time
• Speedplay
• Crank Brothers
• Campagnolo
All are good, some can be very pricey. As with everything, there is tradeoff in
performance, weight, and price. An entry level Look or SPD pedal can be very
affordable. Keep in mind, when you buy clipless, you are also committing to
invest in special cycling shoes which can also be pricey. They get you coming
and going…
Where the rubber meets the road, literally. Wheels.
Cycling wheels are amazing pieces of work. Because of the abuse that wheels
take, the amount of time spent in design, material technology and testing is
staggering. The result is that there are more wheel sets available than you can
imagine and one is perfect for you.
Parts of a wheel
Tires
The actual rubber that you ride on. Comes in a variety of applications and
grades. Cycling tires at the high end can run $100! You can get some perfectly
appropriate ones for much less.
Rims
Made of steel, aluminum alloys and carbon fiber. This is the actual metal ring that
the tire and spokes attach to. You want it light…but it MUST be durable,
especially for hours of training.
Spokes
Usually overlooked, some spokes are stronger, others are lighter, some are
foiled to be more “aero”.
Hubs
The center portion where the spokes attach and the wheel attaches to the bike.
On the back wheel, this is where the freewheel and casette attach. As always,
some are light and some are cheap.
Why a wheel isn’t a wheel
Clinchers vs. Tubeless (aka “sew-ups”)
There are two types of rims. Clinchers are the type that 99.9% of us are familiar
with. You put the tire on the rim, insert a tube, and the outward pressure of the
tube causes the “bead” of the tire to clinch to a lip on the rim. Basically, this is
every bike wheel you’ve ever ridden.
There is also a style called “tubeless” or “sew-ups”. These require no tube as the
wheel itself is an integrated tube that glues to the rim. The advantage is that the
sew up can run more PSI (pressure) creating less rolling resistance. They are
also lighter. The downside (this will sound familiar by now) is that they are pricier
and harder to change if you get a flat. Go with clinchers.
Deep dish vs. standard
The wheel set on the left is called “deep dish”, the one on the right is called
“standard”. Deep dish rims are considered faster due to lower aerodynamic
resistance. They are also (all together now) usually more expensive. Many are
made of carbon fiber so they are also a bit less durable. Standard rims are fine.
Unless you plan on really racing fast, go with standard rims by a reputable
manufacturer and you’ll never know the difference except when you balance your
checkbook.
Spokes, blades, and discs
Most wheels have spokes. Ocassionally, you will see wheels that are pretty
unusual looking because in place of spokes, there are three or four large blades.
Again, there is an aero advantage to these. Taken to the nth degree, time trialists
and some triathletes use a “disc” wheel in the back. A solid wheel that has
virtually no drag coefficient. Unless there is a wicked cross wind and then the
little bugger becomes a sail! Undoubtedly, bladed wheels and disc wheel are
faster than fast. But until you want to spend $1500 on wheels alone, go with
normal wheels.
The 700c vs. 650c debate
The vast majority of wheels are a standard size known as 700c. There are some
specialty wheels that are made in a size called 650c. Naturally, 650c wheels are
a bit smaller in circumfrence. The arguments for and against 650c wheels come
and go with everyone misusing physics, aerodynamics, and voodoo to argue that
they are faster. By and large, no one uses 650c wheels anymore with the
exception of some shorter riders who prefer a smaller overall bike and wheel
configuration. Again, the Lance rule: If 650c wheels were faster for time trialing,
wouldn’t the world’s foremost time trialist use them? End of discussion. Get 700c
wheels.
Wheel Manufacturers
Here are a few names you might see in the wheel biz. All are reputable and most
make a range of products for all levels of consumers. Some specialize in bladed
wheels and discs. Others are generalists.
Mavic
Bontrager
Velomax
Spinergy
Campy
Shimano
Sun Ringle
Zipp
HED
Corima
The extra stuff: aerobars, bottle holders, computers etc.
We could go forever here. Companies realized early on that there is no product
so bizarre and useless that they can’t find a triathlete to buy it. That being said,
you should get the following. As always, put the emphasis on fit and functionality
first, price and coolness second.
• Aerobars: The cheapest way to go faster
• Bottle holders: You can get standard cages for the interior triangle of your
frame or get the kind that mount behind the seat. I prefer the latter but it is up
to you!
• Computer: Get one! Perferably one that has speed, distance, a clock and
cadence.
• Tools: put together a saddle bag that includes equipment to change a flat and
fix minor things. A multi-tool with alan wrenches, screwdrivers and ideally a
chainbreaker is great. You’ll also need a hand pump or CO2 pump (and know
how to use ALL of it.)
• A basket and a bell: Get a big frilly basket for the front, a loud bell (or horn)
and tassles that come out of your bar ends. Just kidding.
Getting FIT. No, not your heart and lungs (yet), your
bike!
Ever meet the guy who will spend $300 on a Big Bertha driver but not a red cent
on a lesson? The cycling equivalent is the gal who spends $2000 on a bike but
doesn’t get it professionally fit to her body. The best money you will spend on
your bike is to get it “fit” by a professional bike fitter. No, not just “Stand over the
top tube and lift up.” I’m talking about a process that lasts an hour or more and
fits your bike to the specifics of your leg length, reach, drop, and does so for all
the positions that you might ride in: Aero, climbing, cruising, sprinting.
A good fitter will position you for maximum power and comfort, balancing your
weight just right, adjusting your seat height, seat position (front to back), seat tilt,
stem length, bar position, and some will even put shims in your cleats to adjust
for foot position on the pedal. Trust me, this is the best $80-$140 you’ll spend on
that bike.
Well, that’s it.
You now are armed with enough information to go out there and make a great
choice. Remember, the best bike for you is one that fits your body and your
budget. It is the bike that will match your training and racing needs. It is one that
will last more than a season and allow you to grow into your love of cycling and
triathlon.
If you have questions, don’t be afraid to ask the salesperson or a trusted advisor
like your coach. And don’t buy a bike on the first day you walk in. Take some
time to mull it over. Your gut will tell you if it is the bike for you. Trust me on that
one.
presents
The Bike Buying Guide
By Acme Coach: Konrad Ribeiro
[email protected]
Introduction........................................................................................................................ 3
Safety .................................................................................................................................. 3
Helmets......................................................................................................................................4
Other safety equipment............................................................................................................4
Why does that bike look so bizarre? Types of Bikes. ........................................................ 4
Road Bikes ................................................................................................................................4
Tri/Time Trial Bikes ................................................................................................................5
Mountain bikes and hybrids....................................................................................................5
They make bikes out of fiber? Materials used to build frames. ....................................... 6
Steel ...........................................................................................................................................6
Aluminum .................................................................................................................................6
Titanium....................................................................................................................................6
Carbon Fiber ............................................................................................................................6
Turning Taiwanese: a special note on frames ........................................................................6
The shiny expensive stuff (AKA Components.) ................................................................ 7
Shimano ....................................................................................................................................7
Campagnolo (aka “Campy”) ...................................................................................................8
Others........................................................................................................................................8
Pedals ........................................................................................................................................8
Platform.............................................................................................................................................8
Toe Clips ...........................................................................................................................................9
Clipless..............................................................................................................................................9
Where the rubber meets the road, literally. Wheels.......................................................... 9
Parts of a wheel.......................................................................................................................10
Tires ................................................................................................................................................10
Rims ................................................................................................................................................10
Spokes .............................................................................................................................................10
Hubs ................................................................................................................................................10
Why a wheel isn’t a wheel......................................................................................................10
Clinchers vs. Tubeless (aka “sew-ups”)............................................................................................10
Deep dish vs. standard .....................................................................................................................10
Spokes, blades, and discs .................................................................................................................11
The 700c vs. 650c debate.................................................................................................................11
Wheel Manufacturers ............................................................................................................11
The extra stuff: aerobars, bottle holders, computers etc. ............................................... 11
Getting FIT. No, not your heart and lungs (yet), your bike!.......................................... 12
Well, that’s it. ................................................................................................................... 12
Introduction
Few things in triathlon bring about more confusion than buying a good bike. And
why not? Swimming requires just goggles and a suit; Running, a good pair of
shoes and some shorts. But one trip to a bike store can send even the most
confident newbie into a headspin! Row after row of shiny bikes with space age
materials, fancy parts, and price tags that can create some serious sticker shock.
But don’t worry! We’ll try and take away the mystery of finding a bike that’s right
for you. If you are looking for a detailed discussion of the merits of integrated
bottom brackets or a detailed analysis of the aerodynamics of foiled tubing then
this guide is NOT for you. This guide is intended for the first-time bike buyer, the
newbie to triathlon. In fact, we’ll specifically try to minimize the confusing lingo
and make this as painless as possible.
We’ll break this into a few parts and try and put them in an order that makes
sense. At the end, we’ll include some pure opinion so you know where we stand
on bikes for triathlon.
• Safety
• Types of bikes
• Materials used to build bikes
• Components
• Pedals
• Wheels
• The extra stuff
• Clothing
• Bike fitting
Yes, there is a lot to learn but don’t feel overwhelmed. All you are trying to do is
match your need and your budget to a bike that is right for you. We’ve all gone
through it. Some of our experiences were better than others. This guide is the
result of a combined 40 years of biking and bike buying experience.
You are leaving the world of $150 bikes from the local hardware store. Get ready.
Safety
Cycling is the single most dangerous activity in our sport. Until they fill all the
potholes, sweep all the debris, and ban cars from the roads, we need to keep
ourselves safe at all times! The best idea is to avoid crashes. In the real world,
however, accidents happen so you need to be ready for the moment when you
do get some road rash.
Helmets
There are three simple rules you need to follow at all times:
1. Always wear a helmet
2. Never forget your helmet
3. Helmets ALWAYS.
Skid lid, brain bucket, whatever you call it, get one that is certified to the Snell B95 standard, the toughest, most comprehensive in the industry. Visit
http://www.bhsi.org/standard.htm for the rundown on standards. Most
importantly, get one that fits. http://www.bhsi.org/fit.htm is a good primer on fitting
your helmet. As we will repeat as nauseum in this guide, fit is the key, not price.
Other safety equipment
Besides a helmet, there are some other goodies that will help “keep the rubber
side down” and will protect you if you do take a spill.
If you are riding in the dark, or even in the dawn or dusk hours, reflective wear
and flashing lights are a must. Red flashers for the rear of the bike or body and
green or white for the front side. We recommend at least two rear lights and one
for the front. These days, you can get an inexpensive LED light set for under $20
and there are dozens of options for reflective clothing. Keep in mind…the cars
are NOT looking for you so you must make your presence KNOWN.
If you do hit the deck, you want to protect your skin. Wear gloves! Natural reflex
will usually cause you to put your hands down. Biking gloves come with tough,
padded palms that will keep the scraping on your hnads to a minimum. Bicycle
clothing is usually slick and will allow you to slide, minimizing heavy contusions.
The result is the famous “road rash” that cyclists talk about: A smooth “burn” type
abrasion, usually on the hip, knee, and ankle (the contact points where your body
meets the road.) To minimize the incidence of infection, keep your legs shaved.
Yes, guys, you too. Yes, it sucks but keep this in mind: If Lance does it, you
should too. (The “Lance Would Do It” theory is a concept that we use to justify
many sacrifices we make as cyclists.)
Why does that bike look so bizarre? Types of Bikes.
Road Bikes
The most common bike on the road is, appropriately enough, the Road Bike.
These are the bikes that racers tend to use in the famous Tour de France. Many
years ago, you would have called this “the Ten Speed”, though that moniker is a
bit dated given that many Road Bikes have as many as 24+ gears. Some
common traits of the Road Bike: Comfortable to ride, relaxed “geometry” (the
angle of the seat tube. Don’t worry. Techie stuff that you can ignore), usually with
drop handlebars (as shown in the photo), designed with a priority on handling
over aerodynamics, safer on descents and in pack riding, variety of price points.
Tri/Time Trial Bikes
Steeper seat tube angle, more severe geometry, typically has foiled tubing, focus
on aerodynamics vs. comfort. Aerobars and cutting edge handle bar
configurations, often built with some amazing frame geometries such as no seat
tube, a monocoque (one piece), and beam bikes, typically trials bikes come with
a price premium.
Mountain bikes and hybrids
There are many other types of bikes that can provide a comfortable ride but will
not maximize speed. Mountain bikes are comfortable to ride, very popular and
many are very easy on the wallet. Keep in mind that knobby tires will slow you
down so if you intend to ride a mountain bike, a pair of “street slicks” or smooth
tires will improve your rolling efficiency. Suspension on mountain bikes will also
lessen speed so if you have the option, you might consider getting a “hard tail”
mountain bike, one without rear suspension.
Hybrids are a marriage of mountain bike comfort and road bike efficiency. The
tires are more narrow but still have some knobby attirbutes. Typical hybrids have
flat handlebars and a more upright sitting positions. Again, comfy but not aero!
However, for the newbie wishing to ride for reasons other than racing or training,
a hybrid could be a great solution.
They make bikes out of fiber? Materials used to build
frames.
Gone are the days when your choice of frame material was cro-moly steel or cromoly steel. Nowadays, bikes are made from a variety of materials and
combinations of those materials. The result is a wider array of choices…and
more confusion and misinformation than ever. The following links gives a
wonderful breakdown of the various types of materials:
http://www.caree.org/bike101framematerials.htm
This link gives another good bit of information and dispels some common myths
about various materials. It is geared toward the touring cyclist but the basic facts
are pertinent for all bikes: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-materials.html
Each material will have certain benefits and drawbacks. Each is prone to some
common misconceptions (titanium frames are “whippy”, steel is always heavy,
aluminum will give you a bone jarring ride, etc.) Most of these are myths. Read
the above links to dispel those.
Steel
The original frame material! Strong and stiff, can be heavy if built for super
durability, typically inexpensive
Aluminum
Light, stiff, easile shpaed into aero tubing, pretty affordable.
Titanium
Strong, flexible relative to steel or alumium, good dampening, light, hellatiously
expensive.
Carbon Fiber
Light, very soft, flexible, very expensive, poor workmanship or design can result
in failure.
Turning Taiwanese: a special note on frames
The “dirty little secret” of frames these days are that the vast majority are made in
Taiwan. That is not necessarily a bad thing. The designs are superb, often the
result of work in the US, Canada, or Europe. The workmanship on most of these
frames is very good and the materials are fine. As we’ll discuss, the major
differentiator is components, wheels, and all the other shiny stuff.
Bottom line: Buy a frame that fits your body and you budget. If you are going to
spend big bucks, spend it on the other stuff. I bought a $150 frame and fork set
that was designed in Quebec, made in Taiwan and sold used on eBay and it is a
dream set up. And not a single person will know. So don’t tell.
The shiny expensive stuff (AKA Components.)
Most frames are similar esp. at the lower price points. It is the components that
drive up the price and improve the function of the bike. Components primarily
include:
Shifters and Brakes
Derailleurs (front and rear)
Front chain rings and cranks
Cassettes (gears)
Brakes
Headsets
Chains
Pedals
Here is a picture of what we would consider a component “group” or “groupo” if
you want to say it with a Euro affectation:
In the road cycling world, there are two major players in the component market,
Shimano (Japanese) and Campagnolo (Italian). There are other minor players
who typically focus on after market or specialty pieces such as cranks, brakes or
hubs. But for integrated systems, Shimano and Campy (as it is knows) are the
choice.
As a general rule, you are best served buying a system with parts that are from
the same manufacturer and the same system e.g. It is better to buy all Ultegra or
all Centaur rather than mixing and matching. They are design as integrated
systems to work in conjunction. While they will work with other parts and
secondary manufacturers will make compatible parts, something is lost in
translation. If you can get all the same stuff…do it.
Shimano
Japanese manufacturer. Came on strong in the mid-80’s, cheaper than Campy
with a variety of levels perfect for every need. Strong, durable, available
everywhere. Great entry level stuff and easy to fix/replace.
Here are their levels of systems:
•
•
•
•
•
Sora (7 or 8-speed)
Tiagra (9-speed)
105 (9-speed)
Ultegra (9-speed)
Dura Ace (10-speed) This is what Lance has used to win 6 Tours de France.
Campagnolo (aka “Campy”)
The Italian standard bearer. Their process is highly advanced manufacturing
technique and their calling card is the place where function meets form. Record
sets the gold standard for all component groups. Is it any wonder that NASA and
satellite makers call on Campy to do specialized carbon fiber manufacturing?
Here are their group levels:
• Xenon
• Mirage
• Veloce
• Centaur
• Chorus (roughly equates to Dura Ace)
• Record (take out a second mortgage)
Others
Some component manufacturers you might see mixed in with the Shimano and
Campy stuff. Why is this done? To save money, allow lower price points for good
bikes. Some of these manufacturers make parts that are actually a step up from
the OEM parts. Others are a lateral move, most are a cost-saving step down. Ask
the sales person why these are substituted in place of the originals. Some names
you might see:
• SRAM
• FSA
• Truvativ
• Chris King
• Cane Creek
Pedals
The contact point between your foot and the bike. Obviously a critically important
choice to make when buying a bike. There are three types of pedals, as always,
each has benefits and drawbacks.
Platform
The ones you learned on. Simply a flat pedal that you stand on and go! Benefits:
Easy to use and cheap. Drawbacks, you only transfer energy when you are
pushing, meaning you lose the “scrape” along the bottom of the pedal cycle and
get no pull up the back. We do NOT recommend using platform pedals for
training or racing. They are simply too inefficient.
Toe Clips
Toe clips are the wire or plastic baskets that attach to the front of a platform
pedal. You insert your forefoot into them and cinch them down with a strap. This
is a step up from platforms and was the standard until the mid-1980’s when the
Look company transferred ski binding technology onto pedals creating the
clipless pedal (below).
Advantages: Cheap, easy to use, allows more transfer of energy from the pedal
stroke. Disadvantages, still not as efficient at transferring power as a clipless
pedal. Many people train and race with Toe Clips and for a newbie or someone
on a budget these are a great alternative to the clipless systems.
Clipless
The clipless pedal allows the rider to “click in” to their pedal and gives nearly
perfect energy transfer because the foot is locked into the pedal for 360 degrees.
There are a number of popular clipless systems. Unlike skiing which has a
standard way of attaching the boot to the binding, each has its own proprietary
interface. Names you might see:
• Look
• SPD (Shimano)
• Time
• Speedplay
• Crank Brothers
• Campagnolo
All are good, some can be very pricey. As with everything, there is tradeoff in
performance, weight, and price. An entry level Look or SPD pedal can be very
affordable. Keep in mind, when you buy clipless, you are also committing to
invest in special cycling shoes which can also be pricey. They get you coming
and going…
Where the rubber meets the road, literally. Wheels.
Cycling wheels are amazing pieces of work. Because of the abuse that wheels
take, the amount of time spent in design, material technology and testing is
staggering. The result is that there are more wheel sets available than you can
imagine and one is perfect for you.
Parts of a wheel
Tires
The actual rubber that you ride on. Comes in a variety of applications and
grades. Cycling tires at the high end can run $100! You can get some perfectly
appropriate ones for much less.
Rims
Made of steel, aluminum alloys and carbon fiber. This is the actual metal ring that
the tire and spokes attach to. You want it light…but it MUST be durable,
especially for hours of training.
Spokes
Usually overlooked, some spokes are stronger, others are lighter, some are
foiled to be more “aero”.
Hubs
The center portion where the spokes attach and the wheel attaches to the bike.
On the back wheel, this is where the freewheel and casette attach. As always,
some are light and some are cheap.
Why a wheel isn’t a wheel
Clinchers vs. Tubeless (aka “sew-ups”)
There are two types of rims. Clinchers are the type that 99.9% of us are familiar
with. You put the tire on the rim, insert a tube, and the outward pressure of the
tube causes the “bead” of the tire to clinch to a lip on the rim. Basically, this is
every bike wheel you’ve ever ridden.
There is also a style called “tubeless” or “sew-ups”. These require no tube as the
wheel itself is an integrated tube that glues to the rim. The advantage is that the
sew up can run more PSI (pressure) creating less rolling resistance. They are
also lighter. The downside (this will sound familiar by now) is that they are pricier
and harder to change if you get a flat. Go with clinchers.
Deep dish vs. standard
The wheel set on the left is called “deep dish”, the one on the right is called
“standard”. Deep dish rims are considered faster due to lower aerodynamic
resistance. They are also (all together now) usually more expensive. Many are
made of carbon fiber so they are also a bit less durable. Standard rims are fine.
Unless you plan on really racing fast, go with standard rims by a reputable
manufacturer and you’ll never know the difference except when you balance your
checkbook.
Spokes, blades, and discs
Most wheels have spokes. Ocassionally, you will see wheels that are pretty
unusual looking because in place of spokes, there are three or four large blades.
Again, there is an aero advantage to these. Taken to the nth degree, time trialists
and some triathletes use a “disc” wheel in the back. A solid wheel that has
virtually no drag coefficient. Unless there is a wicked cross wind and then the
little bugger becomes a sail! Undoubtedly, bladed wheels and disc wheel are
faster than fast. But until you want to spend $1500 on wheels alone, go with
normal wheels.
The 700c vs. 650c debate
The vast majority of wheels are a standard size known as 700c. There are some
specialty wheels that are made in a size called 650c. Naturally, 650c wheels are
a bit smaller in circumfrence. The arguments for and against 650c wheels come
and go with everyone misusing physics, aerodynamics, and voodoo to argue that
they are faster. By and large, no one uses 650c wheels anymore with the
exception of some shorter riders who prefer a smaller overall bike and wheel
configuration. Again, the Lance rule: If 650c wheels were faster for time trialing,
wouldn’t the world’s foremost time trialist use them? End of discussion. Get 700c
wheels.
Wheel Manufacturers
Here are a few names you might see in the wheel biz. All are reputable and most
make a range of products for all levels of consumers. Some specialize in bladed
wheels and discs. Others are generalists.
Mavic
Bontrager
Velomax
Spinergy
Campy
Shimano
Sun Ringle
Zipp
HED
Corima
The extra stuff: aerobars, bottle holders, computers etc.
We could go forever here. Companies realized early on that there is no product
so bizarre and useless that they can’t find a triathlete to buy it. That being said,
you should get the following. As always, put the emphasis on fit and functionality
first, price and coolness second.
• Aerobars: The cheapest way to go faster
• Bottle holders: You can get standard cages for the interior triangle of your
frame or get the kind that mount behind the seat. I prefer the latter but it is up
to you!
• Computer: Get one! Perferably one that has speed, distance, a clock and
cadence.
• Tools: put together a saddle bag that includes equipment to change a flat and
fix minor things. A multi-tool with alan wrenches, screwdrivers and ideally a
chainbreaker is great. You’ll also need a hand pump or CO2 pump (and know
how to use ALL of it.)
• A basket and a bell: Get a big frilly basket for the front, a loud bell (or horn)
and tassles that come out of your bar ends. Just kidding.
Getting FIT. No, not your heart and lungs (yet), your
bike!
Ever meet the guy who will spend $300 on a Big Bertha driver but not a red cent
on a lesson? The cycling equivalent is the gal who spends $2000 on a bike but
doesn’t get it professionally fit to her body. The best money you will spend on
your bike is to get it “fit” by a professional bike fitter. No, not just “Stand over the
top tube and lift up.” I’m talking about a process that lasts an hour or more and
fits your bike to the specifics of your leg length, reach, drop, and does so for all
the positions that you might ride in: Aero, climbing, cruising, sprinting.
A good fitter will position you for maximum power and comfort, balancing your
weight just right, adjusting your seat height, seat position (front to back), seat tilt,
stem length, bar position, and some will even put shims in your cleats to adjust
for foot position on the pedal. Trust me, this is the best $80-$140 you’ll spend on
that bike.
Well, that’s it.
You now are armed with enough information to go out there and make a great
choice. Remember, the best bike for you is one that fits your body and your
budget. It is the bike that will match your training and racing needs. It is one that
will last more than a season and allow you to grow into your love of cycling and
triathlon.
If you have questions, don’t be afraid to ask the salesperson or a trusted advisor
like your coach. And don’t buy a bike on the first day you walk in. Take some
time to mull it over. Your gut will tell you if it is the bike for you. Trust me on that
one.
