Bridal Buyer

away day
destination dream dresses

foot
shoe-be-do-be-do

notes

American high
the new york report

dressed for success
what makes bbeh special
retail focus sole mates perfect props

doing the business

SINCERITYRBRIDAL.COM | FACEBOOK.COM/SINCERITYBRIDAL

Our company philosophy revolves around serving two different sets of customers and keeping the best interests of both in mind with every decision we make. On the one hand, we have the bride as our customer. To suit her needs we offer creative and fun designs that are executed in high quality materials at a value that is unsurpassed by other design house. The quality of design, corsetry and detail featured in and on our gowns is generally only found in gown collections costing much more. We are always looking to add further value to our gowns by improving the designs, build quality and features to meet the needs and desires of today’s bride. On the other hand, the full service bridal salon is our customer, without whom, this industry would collapse. While many companies look at a store as simply part of the supply chain, a final stop in the conduit that gets a dress from the designer to the bride, we look at them for what they truly are: both a full-fledged customer who deserves the highest level of service as well as a partner in helping us make educated and advised decisions about our business practices. We constantly strive to implement new, creative ways to add value for our retailers to make their job easier and more fruitful while enriching the experience of everyone involved. Ultimately, every decision we make is carefully considered in how it will affect the bride and the store and is only implemented when we feel confident that it will have a positive outcome for both customer groups.

Romantica
The Stunning new 2012 collection from Romantica is here.

Retail prices from £375 - £875. w w w. r o m a n t i c a o f d e v o n . c o . u k

Style - Tierney

For Brides with Curves

Tel: 0 1 9 0 9 7 7 4 4 7 1

callistabride.com

www.customsamples.com

Contents
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From the editor
In brIdal, we’ve grown used to changes in customers’ attitudes and shopping habits, and also to the changes in busy periods in retail; traditional spring weddings are no longer first choice for many. what we have to accept now is that it is vital to re-think our ordering times – the buy-in-September-getdeliveries pre-Christmas days are gone for good because of new production and manufacturing cycles, especially in the Far east. Savvy retailers who want to stay ahead are looking at March as the key buying month when they will place their orders for year-end delivery, with merchandise booked in the autumn planned for late Spring arrival. It is not a complex equation, it is simply a shift in emphasis. and it is why bbeH March, once the secondary of the two annual shows, has grown in size and importance. It will be your first and key buying opportunity of the new Year.
Editor Susi Rogol 020 7193 8535 114 Cholmley Gardens, Kim Colley London NW6 1UP [email protected] Clive Burton Nardene Smith 020 7772 8317 nardene.smith@ Gemma Isteed 020 7772 8396 Allana House oceanmedia.co.uk 020 7772 8312 [email protected] / Alliance 020 8955 7040 Judith Sutton 020 7772 [email protected] 8393 Wendy Adams 01423 770120 Printech Europe Bridal Buyer is published six times a year by Ocean Media Exhibitions Ltd, 1 Canada Square, 19th Floor, Canary Wharf, London E14 5AP. Tel 020 7772 8300 Fax 020 7772 8587 wwwbridalbuyer.com. Copyright ©2012 Ocean Media Exhibitions Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither Ocean Media Exhibitions Limited nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies or any other material submitted for publication. The views expressed by interviewees in Bridal Buyer do not necessarily

Features
Top designers and favourite retailers The growth in destination weddings means a demand for the right sort of dress Congrats to Elliis as it makes its 100th

Here they are, looking gorgeous

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Footwear that doesn’t toe the line She’s a cool, quirky customer, and one of the best. Thumbs up for Terry Fox Ben Roberts looks back over the years Down under jewellery is coming up a treat Cameron Ross and Xedo delight retailers Getting adventurous with your displays Where you need to be when in 2012

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Show business
It’s big, it’s beautiful, and it’s the most important show of the year Exhibitors by the hundreds are heading for Harrogate. Be there, 11-13 March Getting ready for the exclusive event that attracts top retailers from across the world

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The Big Apple’s bridal week dazzles

Regulars

If you would like to purchase back issues please call us on 020 8955 7040 or email [email protected]

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the

2012 Collection

charlottebalbier.com

[email protected]

DRESS: TUTTI-FRUTTI – CANDY KISSES 2012 COLLECTION

New collections, new award sponsors, new names – there’s a lot going on right now. So much so we’ve even got a new news page (76) which we’ve filled with things that we think are of real interest

NEWS… you need to know
John Charles to sponsor best occasionwear award
As tHe only CompAny ever to have won the same award for three consecutive years, John Charles is to be the founder member of the Bridal Buyer Awards Hall of Fame. A real cause for celebration and more so because John Charles is to sponsor the category. said Chairman Barry Waterman: “We are delighted. this is a great opportunity for our company to put something back into the industry that has been so kind to us. this is a relatively new category in the awards programme but its importance to retailers is growing year by year. We are proud to be associated with the category which is so close to our hearts.”

2011 Student Designer award winner to launch her own-name collection
The WhiTe Room BRidal Boutique, stockist of some of the

This is Layshaya from the beautiful new collection by Australian company Brides Desire, who will be featured in the preview catwalk show at BBEH March (11-13) and be exhibiting in the George Hotel. This particular gown was the overall winner in the recent Queensland Brides Design Awards. www.bridesdesire.com.au

American high

Tobi Hannah goes to greater lengths with the launch of Lara Hannah
Celebrated for her vintage-inspired short wedding dresses, designer Tobi Hannah has launched a sister line, Lara Hannah, to fulfil the growing demand for long gowns with the same sense of nostalgia. The debut capsule collection features eight dresses made from luxurious silks with embellishments designed by Tobi Hannah. +44 (0) 20 7870 7404 / www.larahannah.com
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s retail focu

sole mates

s perfect prop

business doing the

Cover image: Glamour dressing is one of the clear trends for 2012 and it doesn’t get much more glamorous than this red-carpet gown by Justin Alexander. With a bow in the direction of the great Hollywood screen sirens, this lace and crystal-encrusted gown is cut close to the body to show up curves and its slender shoulder straps have a suggestion of detail

Mark Lesley
www.marklesley.co.uk

The British Bridal Exhibition 11th – 13th March 2012 Hall Q Stand Q7 Stockist Enquiries Tel: +44 (0) 1621 784784 Email: [email protected]

How’s this for an internet disaster?
WIll BRIDes eveR leARn? tAke A look at these pictures. on the left is a fabulous gown from eternity Bridal that retails for around £800; below is a ‘copy’ priced at £59. spot the difference. one of eternity’s stockists was presented with the gown by a somewhat unhappy bride-to-be who had followed up an ad on eBay (some would say, exceedingly stupidly), below, hoping to pick up a real bargain. What can you get for £50 nowadays? Certainly not a luxurious gown that sells for thirteen times that amount. message to retailers: photostat this page and hang it in your dressing rooms as a warning. pete meads of Bonny Bridal, and the man behind the Brides Aware campaign to halt copyists, is now challenging the Beeb on the same subject after a character in The Archers opted to shop online for her wedding dress to save money and was thrilled with the results. As one of pete’s stockists said: “I realise that it’s unlikely that our brides are of the age group that listens to The Archers, but I bet there’s a good few mums/aunts/grannies who will spread the word. It would have been such an ideal opportunity to warn women

Little gems
ReCeNTLy CeLebRaTiNg iTS fifTH year in the UK, Jasmine is dressing brides, maids, mums and tiny tots beautifully. The brand has built up a loyal following with over 100 accounts across the country who appreciate not only the company’s stylish collection but also those extra touches that make a difference. Maternity bridesmaid cuts, a choice of hem lengths and the availability of rush cuts are part of the offering. Jasmine manufactures in its own factories where individual seamstresses make each gown; the quality of the hand-sewn details is exceptional. See the new collections at Harrogate March. +44 (0)1707 240068 / www.jasminebridal.com

Vintage stars at The National Wedding Show
iN KeepiNg wiTH THe gRowiNg trend in bridal, for looks from yesteryear, the UK’s biggest consumer bridal show will be introducing a new area to its spring shows (London olympia 24-26 february; birmingham NeC 16-18 March) featuring suppliers of authentic vintage and vintage-inspired collections including bridal fashion, accessories and stationery as well as a café area where visitors can relax with a quintessentially british cup of tea and a delicious array of cakes. Check out the new-look website at www.nationalweddingshow.co.uk which itself has more than a suggestion of its own vintage flavour.

of the dangers of purchasing cheap dresses over the internet, instead all they’ve done is advertise the idea of visiting local shops, wasting our time and damaging our samples, then trading online and being delighted with the cost and (very unrealistic) delivery time!” said pete: “I complained to the BBC about the utter rubbish quoted in that particular script of The Archers and also posted a comment on my Brides Aware facebook page and provided a link to the BBC complaints page.” the more noise retailers and suppliers make on this subject, the more likely it is to get heard. Use you own website and literature you send out to highlight the dangers of buying cheap goods online.

The British Bridal Retailers Association
In the next issue of Bridal Buyer we will be looking at the work of the BBRA, the newest of the membership retail trade bodies. the association’s offer includes: support of a network of members Discounted business services Interactive brides-focused website sharing of best practice at brides Website support and seo membership of an umbrella organisation that deals with business issues Discounted rates on merchandise www. britishbridalretailersassociation.co.uk

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Rainbow Club collects the accolades

Alan Sanders hands over the RBA reins
as Laura daly takes on the role of Chair of the Rba, Committee member dave Ketteridge of Tickled pink, salutes the out-going boss
AlAn sAnDeRs took tHe helm of the RBA seven years ago as a stop-gap Chairman and proved so effective that the members refused to let him go –until he insisted at september Harrogate that it really was time to go. In those seven years the Association has been formed into an effective body that sets standards for membership, put base, and turned it into an effective go-between and opinion-sounder, linking up with all sides of the bridal industry, suppliers, media, retailers, exhibition organisers and the Government. A classic case was when the eeC listened too keenly to Italian shoe-makers about the hard times they were having against Chinese importers, and a blanket ban was imposed on all Chinese imports. some effective lobbying found the ear of peter mandelson and a huge pR disaster was averted – literally millions of european brides faced going to the altar without their dress, as a result of a classic piece of bureaucratic stupidity. our own suppliers had been reduced to China, to bring back suitcases stuffed with dresses. Having come into bridal from an established background in the had developed property interests, sat on the board of numerous businesses, and so brought with him a wealth of wide-ranging business experience and brass neck. many a sponsor or supporter didn’t realise until some time after their conversation that they had agreed a deal. He also brought to the table a keen eye for legal pitfalls, a dry sense of humour, and a good deal of dogged courage, since many of his meetings were interspersed with trips to what he calls his closest friend, his surgeon. you could text him a message and get an immediate response on his beloved Blackberry from a sunbed in tenerife; he claims his threeyear-old grandson taught him to use it. Alan was determined to reduce the amount of ‘volunteering’ done by RBA executive Council members, and use instead paid-for backroom services, to develop a truly professional association with a modern internet presence. the Brides protection scheme, the services of a clued-up legal team – a great comfort to members – and the well-respected RBA Awards evening, are some of his triumphs. themselves amazed at the litigious nature of bridal retail and the sheer vindictiveness of some of our clients. tell us about it.

iTH a ReSpeCTed reputation for quality, design and service in the bridal accessories industry, Rainbow Club is looking to the future with a new service for brides and retailers, which will drive further business and provide opportunities for mutual growth in the sector. The brand new ‘Click & Collect’ service launches in January 2012 and, in a first for the bridal industry, offers customers the opportunity to browse online for Rainbow Club shoes and accessories of choice, with the option to visit a stockist or place an order online for collection in store. Time-pressed customers are turning to the internet for more and more of their shopping needs and it is time for the bridal industry to think creatively about ways to meet this growing demand. Rainbow Club is introducing this new innovation as a way to meet consumer expectations and support its dedicated team of national stockists. Rainbow Club is launching a brand new, easy-to-use website supporting the initiative. Major investment has gone into creating a new site that focuses on encouraging the bride to find a stockist. New elements include retailer profiling for top accounts, google mapping for better search facilities of our participating stockists, and better links to retailers’ own websites. driving traffic to stores remains a key priority, and brides will be encouraged to visit stores to view other product offerings, not purely Rainbow Club product. once an order is placed, the consumer will be able to select a convenient location, earning a commission of 30 per cent (of RSp less VaT) to the retailer. The product will be speedily delivered in distinctive ‘Click & Collect’ packaging and Rainbow Club will meet all carriage charges. Richard Marsh, Rainbow Club’s managing director explains: “So many of our retailers want to offer an online service but simply don’t have the time or resource to perhaps do this properly. we are therefore proposing to do this in partnership with our retailers by giving them a share of the growing e-commerce market – in what will be tougher trading conditions going forward. we are very proud and excited about being the first bridal brand to support our stockists in this way.” See the new site from late January 2012 at www.rainbowclub.co.uk

Click & Collect
Buy now and collect in store
FIND OUT MORE

watch out for a new name at bbeH March – Rosa Couture. The collection is from Julia barnes and comprises 50 wedding gowns and 70 maid and prom dresses in taffeta

and organza. prices are from £200 to £350.
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RETAIL FOCUS
Alan Hannah
“Wimbledon-based Teokath is special to us because of their utter commitment to customer service and flexibility. They understand our ability to offer a bespoke product so that they never have to turn a bride away who happens to be an awkward size or who wants a design change on her Alan Hannah dress. The desire to give the customer what she really wants is tempered by a gentle and human approach, which never borders on being pushy.”
decorated in black, which really makes the dresses stand out. as well as alan hannah, the shop carries dresses by annasul Y, david Fielden, Gemy, hollywood dreams, lusan mandongus, Pronovias and Ritva Westenius. and accessories by elizabeth dickens, halo, Ivory & Co, malis henderson, nathalie French and Richard designs. the shop prides itself on offering skilled consultants to each bride, affording her real focus and undivided attention. “over the past few years we have seen a lot of changes,” says owner maria sotiriou. “today brides are discerning and focused on finding the best shape for their silhouette. I predict that over the next few years they will be looking for figurehugging styles with a fitted skirt and a floaty overlay that allows them to look like a princess. Girls today are looking for unusual necklines and unique styling – I think strapless could be on the way out. meanwhile the internet has made them much more designer-aware and, of course, they can see all the styles online before they come in.”

First choice
Stewart Parvin
“The Bespoke Wardrobe really understands what makes our gowns unique and they are fantastic advocates of my work. Their enthusiasm for the brand, the collection and their understanding of the fit and quality of the gowns means they are able to provide a fantastic and knowledgeable service to their clients, which in turn reflects well on the Stewart Parvin brand.”

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eokath has been In WImbledon for six years and is open monday, tuesday and Friday 10am – 6pm, Wednesday and thursday 10am – 8pm, saturday 9am – 6pm and sunday 11am – 4pm, which gives even the most timepushed brides plenty of opportunity to find their perfect dress. the shop is opulently

If the designers are the backbone of the wedding dress industry, the retailers are very much the muscle. We asked four designers to each nominate a shop that is special to them and to tell us why. Louisa Shulman took note

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he besPoke WaRdRobe Is In the beautiful village of Ingatestone, in essex. as well as stewart Parvin they stock suzanne neville, naomi neoh, Claire michevani, elle & Charlotte and emmy london accessories. the shop is open monday--saturday 9am-5pm with late evenings by appointment on Wednesday and thursday. Currently, the average spend

in the shop is between £2,500 and £3,000. owners mary and Regine feel privileged to be working in the bridal industry. “We have noticed that the bar has been raised high by our fabulous british designers. We have the honour to work with a team producing innovative designs using the highest-quality fabrics and trimmings year after year, making our brides-to-be very happy,” says

mary. “our clients are all individual and have very specific requirements for their wedding day look. the softer floaty fabrics in particular have really captured the hearts of our brides the last few months. beautiful silk chiffons and georgettes with a combination of lace create a romantic, feminine elegance. sometimes a bride can feel overwhelmed by a more structured gown.”

Teokath’s Canterbury branch, above and left, uses rich dark colours and cleverly-planned lighting to make the absolute most of its gorgeous collection of gowns. Extended opening hours are core to the service on offer

Ian Stuart
“London Bride Couture is a beautiful shop in Pimlico, London, that looks and feels like a Parisian boutique. The service, experience, alterations and aftercare are second to none. Each bride is treated like she is the only bride in the world and is given wonderful advice in a beautiful setting with Champagne and classical music. If I were a bride I would be sure to shop there.”

A favourite of Royal designer Stewart Parvin, The Bespoke Wardrobe has an elegant but intimate interior with huge mirrors and rugs and wall-hangings with in a private home, only with the wardrobe contents on display

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ondon bRIde CoutuRe has been open for six years and is the largest stockist of Ian stuart dresses in the uk. they also carry Pepe botella, Paloma blanca, mikaella and John Charles. In november they took on three new accounts: YolanCris, Veerle Praet and sanyukta shrestha. to complement the dresses they stock accessories by Polly edwards, Paradox and > Vivien sheriff.
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RETAIL FOCUS

open monday – saturday 10am – 5 pm, the intimate, boutique-like shop has art deco and French-romantic elements which is what gives it the Parisian feel that Ian loves. dresses range in price from around £1,000-£5,000. the average price of dresses sold in the past 12 months was £2,000. “our shop offers a highly personal, intimate experience with expert advice and care from our team. We pride ourselves on taking on the

best and most exciting new designers as well as maintaining a lovely relationship with Ian stuart and remaining his largest stockist. We are also the only store in england to stock Veerle Praet’s elegantly sophisticated couture gowns,” says kim mcCool, who owns the shop together with susan levy. “there is a lot of diversity among brides right now,” says susan. “many are asking for a dress which is dramatic, theatrical and defies convention and they love Ian stuart’s modern beautiful creations. meanwhile, others want a more understated classical feel, asking for soft lace, silk or simple a-line designs. these brides have been excited by Paloma blanca and Veerle Praet. In the past five years the amount of research brides will do has increased greatly and it is quite normal for them to visit upwards of seven shops to try on dresses. this could be down to there being a greater variety of dresses available and the ‘rules’ about what is acceptable bridalwear becoming more lax. Colour, style and materials are very flexible now.”

“Carina and Lucy started their shop, Carina Baverstock, just over a year ago, and they opened in the middle of the season, which is brave but it did not hinder their success. Within little time plenty of reorders started coming in. We have been very impressed by their professionalism, knowledge and hands-on approach, delivering every bride full attention and asking us plenty of questions to ensure that most orders are closed.”

David Fielden

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e aRe based In the picture postcard town of bradford on avon – 15 minutes from bath but with better coffee shops!” says Carina. “We carry an enviable a- lister’s dream of outstanding designers; david Fielden – chic and contemporary; matthew Williamson – debuting his bridal collection; suzanne neville, every celebrity’s dream designer at the moment; sassi holford for countryside romance; Ritva Westenius for glamour; Claire Pettibone for magical mysticism and internationally-renowned Jenny Packham (as worn so frequently by the duchess of Cambridge). the average spend is between £2,000 and £3,000.” Carina baverstock carries a wide range of accessories by Jenny Packham, louis mariette, Polly edwards, Flo & Percy, stephanie browne, nieve Couture, Paradox and Rachel simpson. open six days a week 10am-5pm with evening appointments available, the large

The interior of Carina Baverstock has been designed to create an atmosphere of grandeur and comfort. Opulent silks have been used for the soft furnishings, to dress the walls, and for the beautiful drapes that separate different areas. Shimmering crystal chandeliers and side lamps are a wonderful addition and produce pools of light that highlight displays

boutique is sumptuously decorated with French country furniture and luxurious silks, huge antique mirrors and gorgeous chandeliers. “our brides constantly tell us it is the best bridal boutique they have ever seen!” says Carina. there appears to have been a huge move away from large formal skirts and there is definitely less structure in the gowns. Carina says that gentle hues of colour are making their way in. lace has definitely been

the biggest success story of the past year. she thinks that winter weddings are becoming more popular and brides are asking for capes. Carina and lucy are trading on their success and expanding. “our first year has been better than we could ever have dreamt,” says Carina. “after countless requests to dress the mothers of our brides we are going to open our sister shop for exclusive occasionwear for elegant mothers and red carpet sophisticates!”

travellıng

Gowns to go:

right

‘Have dress will travel’ seems to be the motto for a growing number of brides today. As many as 80,000 Brits get married abroad each year, and the figures are rising. Georgia Daniels heads off for the sunshine

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He lure of tHe wHite sAndy CAriBBeAn BeACH HAs long been hard to resist for many couples, especially those who want to escape and do it alone on their big day, but new york City and a handful of european destinations are increasingly popular. lisa Burton, who runs the Bridal Consultant, one of a growing number of specialist companies that have sprung up to cater for the needs of wanderlust brides and grooms, says that greece is the most sought-after location. “i have been in this business for eight years and greece has always been popular but, ever since the Mamma Mia movie, it has really taken off. the fantastic weather, beautiful locations, friendly people and most of all value for money combine to make it the perfect choice. Couples find that if they marry in greece in the summer months and give their guests enough notice, many of them will combine the wedding with their summer holiday.” As well as being able to, on average, halve their costs if they marry abroad, couples find that it is far less stressful, involving a smaller scale event with fewer guests. Many couples are juggling full-time jobs with children even before they marry and handing the organisation of their nuptials over to an expert turns if from a stress fest into a dream come true. Most people opt for somewhere that sunshine is near enough guaranteed, and they save further money by already being in situ for their honeymoon. “not only has the number of weddings abroad increased over the past few years, but the type of people doing it has changed too,” says Burton. “we are now dealing with those who once would have been happy to spend £15,000 but no longer can or simply want to hang on to their pennies in this unpredictable economy. this is definitely a more discerning clientele, and it is growing. As such, it is no longer good enough for specialists such as us to just run a phone or web-based service – we have opened offices where our clients can come and talk to us face to face.”

Opposite page: Maggie Sottero; this page, clockwise from left, : Amanda Wyatt, Anoushka G, Sanyukta Shrestha and Tobi Hannah all cater to the destination wedding market with clever cuts and lightweight fabrics that travel

it seems it’s not only english couples who want to get married abroad. Between 6,000 and 10,000 people travel to our shores from other countries each year to get married, too. retailers need to sit up and take note. Marriages abroad are not included in the office of national statistics figures, which means that there are far more weddings, and therefore calls for wedding gowns, than official numbers quote. destination weddings are big business, and retailers should ensure they get a slice of the action. “the number one bug bear of brides who come to me is that they struggle to find a suitable dress,” says Burton. “they complain that bridal retailers are sorely lacking in expertise when it comes to advising them on a suitable dress to take abroad. they say that the choice is poor and the knowledge of what kind of fabrics travel well is scant. retailers also appear to turn their noses up when the bride > says she is getting married abroad.”
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chiffon gown, right, has all the right fashion-now features. Dresses in the lovely Dessy Bride collection, bottom right, are destined expressly for brides who go travelling

Packing tips
Manufacturers each have their own advice, which retailers should pass on. anoushka G advises covering the dress in a polybag and then putting it into a long over-bag as the air between the plastics help prevent creasing. When the bride gets to her destination she should take it out of the bag and hang it in a steamy bathroom; the creases should drop out. at Maggie sottero the suggestion is to turn the dress inside out, fold the sides of the gown inwards so it is it is being transported in and then to fold the bodice of the dress over the case, ensuring that corset bones do not bend. If the dress is too heavy to go onto the plane as hand luggage and therefore has to go in the hold, the case should be labelled: ‘fragile Wedding Items’. upon arrival the bride should take the dress out of the case and hang it up (with the train, if there is one, pulled out over a chair if possible) so that any creasing is reduced as much as possible by the wedding day. Maggie sottero
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agrees with anoushka G – a steamy bathroom will help drop creasing. sanyukta shrestha says the luggage with some acid-free tissue and covered with soft muslin. at the destination, the dress should be hung from the highest place in the room and then cold-ironed on the inside, if necessary. a good tip from Mon cheri is that any beading on the dress is properly protected so that the beads do not snag on any other part of the material. as an industry we need to wise up to all trends, and it seems that weddings abroad are not only here to stay, but are on the increase. Maybe it’s time to check your stock for what may be suitable, and certainly bear destination dresses in mind when you visit BBeh in March.

A quick tour round the manufacturers shows that there is, in fact, plenty out there for destination brides, but retailers certainly need to do their homework on what might be suitable to wear in hot weather, and what travels well. Anoushka g’s lace Katrina dress (srP £1,050) , shown on the previous page, is very lightweight and hardly creases. sincerity and tobi Hannah both offer chiffon dresses at around the £720 mark that are eminently transportable and the fabric makes them ideal to wear in hotter climates. the tobi Hannah dress is short, which of course makes it even easier to pack. Amanda wyatt has a chiffon gown in the collection (£800) which, despite being lightweight and slinky, still has a wow factor. it is easy and comfortable to wear in soaring temperatures. Mon Cheri’s chiffon Amalfi gown (£600) is made from lightweight chiffon that is perfect for a destination wedding. sanyukta shrestha’s esther gown is her best-selling destination wedding dress and has been a favourite with the press. Made from organic silk, bamboo and organic cotton, this extremely lightweight dress is timeless and simple in design. the combination of fabrics keeps the body cool in hot weather and is resistant to uV light, mould, mildew, salt water and abrasion. the srP is £2,049 and there is a chiffon overlayer at £744. Maggie sottero’s most sought-after destination wedding gown (style rd1044) is made from billowing gossamer chiffon and retails at around £925. this is a slimline, sultry dress with a single floral embellished shoulder strap. “we are finding that the popularity of weddings abroad has increased in recent years and we have reflected this by bringing a destination range into our collection,” says Amanda Aislabie at Maggie sottero. dessy Bride, too, has a beautiful range of organza and tulle dresses which are great for overseas weddings. lightweight and fairly slimline, they travel well and with price tags ranging from £275 to £400, they are brilliant value and perfect for those on a budget and keen to save money by choosing to get married abroad.

transporting the dress to the dream location is something brides need to be advised on. giselle Hulme at the empty Box Company has been successfully supplying travel boxes for wedding dresses for 20 years. “no bride wants to put her dress in the hold when she goes on the aeroplane. she wants to – in fact should be advised to – keep it with her at all times, yet all airlines have restrictions on hand luggage. our travel Maxi box is the largest size that an airline will permit in the cabin, and it is big enough to fit any dress as along as all the air is pressed out of it. Most destination wedding dresses are sleek and slender, but even the larger dresses will fit if they are packed correctly,” she says. travel boxes also double up as wedding dress storage boxes and are made from special ph-neutral board that prevents discolouration of the dress. “we encourage retailers to keep a stock of our boxes so that the bride can purchase one as soon as she buys her dress. if she buys the travel box from the retailer she has the added advantage of getting it packed for her, which is always a great relief.”

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years of bridal’s best
over the past century, Ellis bridals has moved from small beginnings in london’s East End to market leader on a multinational platform. happy 100th to one of the uK’s great success stories… and the nicest bunch of people you could meet. Dominic Bliss goes down memory lane

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ould Ellis bE thE oldEst bridal housE in the world? as far as the company knows, it has been around longer than anyone else on the planet. What’s even more astounding is that, over all those years, it has steadfastly remained a family-run business. today’s managing and design director is regine Ellis; regine’s husband barry Waterman is chairman; her son James Ellis the marketing and general manager. of the 30-odd employees at the Ellis bridals headquarters in Wood Green, north london, several have been with the company for decades. “if people have been working with us for years, they almost become part of the Ellis family,” says James who joined his mother and step-father in 2009 after cutting his teeth as a studio manager with alexander McQueen. “they can also have their say and influence in the company. their opinions count. it’s an unusual set-up in that everyone cares about the company; nobody rushes to clock out at the end

of the day. i think that’s one of the achievements of our business.” Customer service is paramount, too. James says that, because the family reputation is always at stake, Ellis bridals bends over backwards to keep its retailers happy.

it was after successfully creating her own wedding dress that ada Ellis founded the company back in 1912. she had arrived in london from Poland at the age of 15, and set up a blouse factory in east london. her first business was launched from her and her husband’s flat above their barber shop in Pimlico. “she was a great designer,” ada’s son sidney recalled on Ellis bridal’s 75th anniversary in 1987. “Films in particular were a tremendous source of inspiration. she would see a dress in a film and make it the next day.” as the fledgling business flourished, ada realised she needed a whole team of machinists and cutters. before the First World War she moved to a larger premises in Commercial road, in Whitechapel,

part of the thriving East End rag trade. the second World War saw this part of london decimated by German air raids; Ellis bridals were no exception, their studio façade destroyed by a bomb blast. ada wisely decided to relocate to brighton for the rest of the war. later, when peace returned, sidney moved forward to spearhead the business and returned the company to the capital, settling in the bow quarter in east london. according to Ellis’s charted history, “he had his mother’s eye for beauty but also his father’s level head when it came to business which helped him keep the brand successful.” sidney recognised the potential of Far East manufacturing as early as the mid-1950s. “the production facilities and skills on offer meant that dresses which would previously have been unaffordable were suddenly accessible,” sidney’s grandson James explains. “and that was the start >

Main picture: Gown from the lavish Centenary collection; treasured pictures from the company’s past, above clockwise: Ada marries Sam Ellis in 1910; the showroom opening in 1957; Ada’s daughter Minie marries Harry Monk in 1936

of the company’s real growth.” in 1959 the Ellis launched their mother-of-the-bride label, John Charles; by the 1960s both collections were being stocked in both harrods and selfridges.

Far left: Barry and Regine with awards presenter John Scott and Susi Rogol at the Bridal Buyer Awards 2011. Left and below: early images from Brides magazine

in the 1980s sidney pulled off a coup; he was the first designer to recreate the wedding dresses of both lady diana and sarah Ferguson, and to have them commercially available in stores within days. the company history remembers what a massive success it was. “his designers worked furiously during the royal weddings, sketching, cutting and piecing together gowns which looked identical to the originals but at prices the average bride could afford.” there was a further royal seal of approval in 1987 when Princess anne visited the bow factory. it was around this time that Ellis bridals realised the full potential of advertising to brides. they weren’t afraid to spend large on campaigns, photographers and models. both Yasmin le bon and Melanie sykes posed as Ellis brides. in 1995 the company moved premises to their current location, a massive 13,000-square foot warehouse, office and workshop in Wood Green, north london. With so much history and success behind them, this year’s centenary celebrations are sure to be high-spirited. James says regine and barry haven’t finalised party plans yet; right now they need to ensure their Centenary Collection 2012 impacts with style. “the collection comes straight out of the Ellis history books,” regine says. “We spent many late nights searching through old photos and letters, piecing together our history in fashion – a wealth of intricate embellishments, stunning silhouettes and luxury fabrics. We combined this historical aesthetic with our contemporary design work to create a sumptuous collection that reflects our distinguished heritage.”

Ellis Bridals Awards
three times winner of the bridal buyer awards for best occasionwear Collection, John Chares now moves into the hall of Fame. Kelsey rose has been awarded the best bridesmaid Collection twice so far

ELLIS BRIDALS DATELINE
1910 Ada Ellis makes her
own wedding dress and starts trading from her
as ever, advertising will play a crucial role in this new collection. James explains how there is often a storyline behind the bridal photo shoots they do, all of which are planned in-house. For the centenary campaign they chose syon house, a beautiful stately home in west london. “We try to keep it sophisticated,” James explains. “the history of the house ties in with our centenary. and for our model we wanted a modern-day princess, just like Kate Middleton at buckingham Palace.” inevitably the centenary is a chance for the company to take stock of its history and, at the same time, look to the future. Currently they sell into around 500 retailers in the uK, ireland and mainland Europe. there are no plans to increase the number of brands in the portfolio, but the existing three – Ellis, John Charles and Kelsey rose – are to be promoted internationally, with italy, the benelux countries, eastern Europe and China particular targets. James also wants to boost marketing opportunities to potential brides, especially through the use of social media. Praise for Ellis bridals abounds within the industry. “a company that is still going strong after 100 years is doing something right,” says Miranda Eason, editor of You & Your Wedding. “Ellis combines great design with figure-flattering construction, all at can’t-believe-it prices.” in spite of all this success, it’s the family side of the business that James and regine insist is most important. as the company matriarch herself stresses: “the fact that Ellis has stayed within the family all these years, and that we are the oldest bridal house in the world, makes me incredibly proud.”

1912 Ada opens a studio and 1941

to Brighton during the

1946 Ada’s son Sidney joins the 1955 1959 1969 Ellis are featured on the front
Brides & Setting Up

1984 1986 1987 1992 1998 Kelsey Rose bridesmaids 2012

1981

Home

dress just days after the

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Why BBEH is the very best
Now in its 30th year, this long-standing and ever-popular twice-yearly show has a reputation for bringing together some of the best international manufacturers and niche collections with the country’s most professional and passionate retailers. Harrogate, as the enduring and endearing home of bridal, delivers the business
“Over the years, exhibitors and visitors alike have had a huge input into annually improving the Harrogate show, BBEH. It seems that Ocean Media has big ears because it certainly listens. Continuity of personnel is the key to permanent success, with characters like Wendy Adams heading the list. Was there ever a ‘Harrogate’ without Wendy?”

Joe Sweeney, BBA

“BBEH in Harrogate – love it or hate it, it’s the one show that you need to visit to stay in touch with what’s new. The importance of visiting this major show should never be under-estimated. The March and September dates should be worked into every retailer’s yearly calendar and accounted for in the annual budget, just like the electricity bill, and seen as a cost of doing business rather than a weekend away. For manufacturers and retailers alike, Harrogate is a few days in the year when you can show loyalty for past investments, and keep ahead of the game.”

Nick Day, Sincerity

“It is clear from collating research responses from our members that most of them regard BBEH as their principle buying event. To them, Harrogate is regarded as a must-visit, regardless of the distance they have to travel, and the social aspect is an important consideration for most.”

Gordon Symonds, BBRA
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“BBEH presents the perfect atmosphere for us exhibitors to show our new collections at their very best, as the whole of bridal is brought together in one place, picturesque Harrogate. BBEH provides a platform for the industry, allowing us to socialise, build on new and existing relationships, and to share information and ideas.”

Rachael Rowles, Trudy Lee

“BBEH has always been the place we visited to both view the latest collections and search for fresh designers. We always return with ideas - and inspiration for our future shoots, editorial and trend alerts for our readers. Last September we exhibited in the Media Lounge for the first time which surpassed expectation. It gave us a base to meet suppliers and many of our Scottish advertisers popped by to tell us about collections they had seen/ ordered and to ask whether they’d be good for editorial coverage. It’s important to us that everything featured in our magazine can be bought in Scotland and this level of contact has given us an insight into what our Scottish retailers buy.”

A

From the RBA
S THE NEW YEAr kICkS in, and (hopefully) a new exhibitions in May, I can’t help thinking that the bridal world’s gone a little bit mad! Being in the grip of a long hard economic winter as we are, how many labels can sustain showing at all or nearly all of these shows without passing the cost on to the retailer? Are designers and suppliers being pushed to exhibit all over the place, in much the same way as we are pushed by all and sundry to attend wedding fairs, with promises of huge footfall and big spenders? It seems that everyone has a different opinion as to what exactly is the best time for new dresses to land in our shops. Although the old buy-in-September-deliver-in-January formula may be out of kilter with today’s buying patterns, it doesn’t follow that the whole exhibition industry needs to shatter into disjointed array. Much as the rBA welcomes change and encourages progress in this industry, some things in our already have the perfect venue in Harrogate! What sounds best; all you could need is one well-laid-out treasure hunt, with a fantastic social scene as well, or a soul-destroying schlep around several venues in London? What’s the betting that one of your suppliers will only be showing at Harrogate anyway, and that the dresses you thought you’d get in earlier than your competitors if you went to order them in July, actually all arrive in the shops at the same time as those ordered later? Don’t get me wrong, the boltons and upgrades are what make our lives more interesting, but without that basic tariff, we’d all be in a pickle! Laura Daly, Chair

Lorna Leckie, Scottish Wedding Directory

through the door, I wonder how many of us retailers will be having a quiet little panic at the thought of where and when they’ll be going to buy next season’s dresses? The need to spend wisely and buy intelligently has never been greater, but these days, buying the perfect mix can prove Emails pop up on my new iphone nearly every day informing me of the next ‘must see’ trade exhibition. True, our choice of when and where to buy new gowns has never been more varied, but it’s also becoming confusing, time-consuming and expensive. In fact trying to plan next year’s spending is proving harder than choosing a new phone tariff, something I thought would be impossible to beat! There’s the basic tariff of March and September Harrogate, you may want a bolt on of May’s designerwear offerings, in London, and an upgrade to occasionwear at Pure or Moda in February and August. Then there’s the roaming tariff to consider if you stock, for example Pronovias, or if you fancy going to the numerous international fairs in America and Europe. For the small independent bridal retailer, attending all these shows just isn’t a viable option. Apart from the some shows fall slap bang in our busiest periods. Having recently heard that the market is to fragment even further with more splinter

“BBEH is important because it’s the show where BIS members get the majority of their orders for the year, so it’s crucial when it comes to maintaining levels of business. But the shows are also special because that’s when you get most retailers and suppliers together in one place; at Harrogate you can catch up with friends when you’re setting up your stand, during the show, at the fashion shows or at one of the must-attend social events such as the BISCO. BBEH is a twice-yearly concentration of this wonderful sector in which we work, and I look forward to it every March and September.”

Andy Jackson, Manager, BIS
“We have exhibited at Harrogate for over 20 years – it is where we release our new collections twice a year. For new shops, the show is the perfect place to get advice on what you need in stock, and to meet different suppliers. The atmosphere is perfect - relaxed and friendly, with lots of opportunities for socialising. We would always recommend that you can look around on one day, and buy on the next, ensuring you make good buying decisions.”

Louise Dicks, Richard Designs
“Harrogate as an exhibition venue is one of my favourites. A unique and beautiful town with a fabulous choice of restaurants and bars all within walking distance of the exhibition halls and hotels, makes attending BBEH not just worthwhile for business, but a pleasurable three days away too.” Christine Marchant, White Mischief

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They’ll all be there!
Bridal gowns
2 15Teen by Precious Formals 2Be Bridal by Kathy Ireland Agnes Alexia Designs Alfred Sung Bridal Allure Bridals Alyce Designs by FF London Amanda Wyatt Angel Annais Anny Lin Anoushka G Art Couture Bellice By Veromia Benjamin Roberts Blue by Enzoani Blush by JLM Brides Desire by Wendy Sullivan Callista Bride Champagne Fashions Crystal Breeze Bridal DaVinci Bridal Demetrios Destination by Dessy Destiny Informal Donna Salado D’Zage Ella Rosa Ellis Enzoani Eternity Bridal Farage Gallery by Ella Rosa Gino Cerruti Hilary Morgan Hollywood Envy by Precious Formals Impression Bridal Intuzuri Jade Daniels Jasmine Collection Jasmine Couture Jean Fox JLM Europe Justin Alexander Justin Alexander Signature Kay Mason Brides Kiss the Frog Bridal
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As the first and most important show of the year, BBEH March is where buyers will be placing their main annual orders to secure key pre-Christmas del iveries
LM London Harmony Lou Lou Luna B Lux Gal by Precious Formals Maggie Sottero - The Bridal Co Ltd Manon Mark Lesley Bride Mark Lesley Couture Bride Mark Lesley Paradise Bride Marylise Mascara by the House of Frank Saul MJ Bridal Fashions Mon Cheri Bridal Mori Lee Nicki Flynn Only You by Jean Fox Ophelia Opulence Phil Collins Bridal Collection Phoenix Gowns Posh Brides by Precious Formals Posh Precious by Precious Formals Precious Divas by Precious Formals Private Label by G Pure Bridal Rembo Styling Romantica Ronald Joyce Rosa J Couture Ruby’s Gems by Precious Formals Sarl by Farange Signature Plus Sincerity Sonsie Sophia Tolli Sweetheart Sylvia Rose Tara Keely Tia by Benjamin Roberts Trudy Lee True Bride Venus Bridal Veromia Veromia Couture Victoria Kay Watters Wendy Makin White Rose White Rose Plus WOW by Amanda Wyatt

Alvina Valenta
Bridesmaids
15Teen by Precious Formals Alexia Designs Alfred Sung Bridesmaids Allure Bridals Alvina Valenta Alyce Designs by FF London Amanda Wyatt Angel Anoushka G B2 by Jasmine Belsoie by Jasmine Champagne Fashions Colours by Kenneth Winston Couche Tot DaVinci Bridesmaids Dessy Girl Dessy Group Dessy Junior Maids D’Zage Bridesmaids Ebony Rose Designs Frazer & James of Knightstbridge Gino Cerruti Glam Gurlz by Precious Formals Goya London Hilary Morgan Hollywood Envy by Precious Formals

Brides Desire

Alexia Designs

Jasmine

Amanda Wyatt

Sophia Tolli
Impression Bridal Jim Hjelm Occasions JLM Europe Joan Lee Kelsey Rose Lela Rose Bridesmaids Linzi Jay Bridal Little Temptations London Harmony Lou Lou Luna B Lux Gal by Precious Formals Manon Mark Lesley Bridesmaids Mascara by the House of Frank Saul Mori Lee Noir by Lazaro Occasions by PLG Peppermint PF Starz by Precious Formals Phil Collins Bridal Collection Phoenix Gowns Posh Angels by Precious Formals Posh Precious by Precious Formals Precious Divas by Precious Formals Precious Prom by Precious Formals Premier Designs Pure Bridal Reprise Bridesmaid Romantica Ronald Joyce Ruby’s Gems by Precious Formals Sarah Danielle Occasions Sophia Tolli Tara Lee The Dessy Group Trudy Lee Bridesmaids True Bride True Essentials Twilight Designs Venus Bridal Veromia Bridesmaids Victoria Kay Watters

Occasionwear

15Teen by Precious Formals Alexia Designs Alvina Valenta Alyce Designs by FF London Angel Anoushka G Avanti Designs Belsoie by Jasmine Bluemoon Champagne Fashions Crystal Breeze Prom Drama Queen by Amanda Wyatt Farage

Galaxy Gino Cerruti Glam Gurlz by Precious Formals Goya London Grace Harrington Couture Hannah S Hilary Morgan Hollywood Envy by Precious Formals Impression Bridal Jean Yves Jim Hjelm Occasions JLM Europe Ltd Joan Lee John Charles Jora Collection La Belle La Perle Occasionwear LM London Harmony Lou Lou Luna B Lux Gal by Precious Formals

MacDuggal Manon Mascara by the House of Frank Saul Mori Lee Noir by Lazaro Occasions by PLG PF Starz by Precious Formals Posh Angels by Precious Formals Posh Precious by Precious Formals Precious Divas by Precious Formals Precious Prom by Precious Formals Ronald Joyce Ruby’s Gems by Precious Formals Tiffany Prom Tony Bowls True Bride Twilight Venus Bridal Victoria Kay

MOB

Mascara

Alfred Sung

15Teen by Precious Formals Alexia Designs Alyce Designs by FF London Angel Anoushka G Avanti Designs Boutique Collection by Richard Designs Capri Champagne Fashions Gino Cerruti Glam Gurlz by Precious Formals Goya London Hollywood Envy by Precious Formals Impression Bridal Joan Lee John Charles La Belle La Perle Occasionwear Linzi Jay Bridal Lou Lou Lux Gal by Precious Formals Mascara by the House of Frank Saul Mon Cheri Occasions Mori Lee
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Urban Angels
PF Starz by Precious Formals Posh Precious by Precious Formals Precious Divas by Precious Formals Ronald Joyce Ruby’s Gems by Precious Formals Sarah Danielle Tiffany Prom Venus Bridal Watters Ivory & Co Tiaras Joyce Jackson Collections By June Ellen Linzi Jay Bridal Linzi Jay Childrenswear Little Temptations Liza LM Nieve Designer Couture OMYGOD Peppermint Premier Designs Richard Designs Warren York International

Hassall Her Best Kept Secret Jean Yves Jora Collection La Boda Lexus Linzi Jay Childrenswear Little Temptations Meadows Bridal Shoes Paradox Peppermint Perfect Bridal Shoes Pink Premier Designs Pure & Precious Bridal Shoes Rainbow Club Rainbow Couture Shades Shoes

Starlet Jewellery The Earring Boutique Twilight Designs Victoria and Edward Warren York International

Hats

Arianna Boutique Collection by Richard Designs Calla Rosa Designs Carina Farage Galaxy Halo & Co OMYGOD Rhapsody

Lingerie

Jewellery

Headdresses

Amanda Wyatt Arianna Calla Rosa Designs Collections By June Ellen Demetrios Emmerling Halo & Co Heading up! Inca Ivory & Co Tiaras Linzi Jay Bridal Linzi Jay Childrenswear Little Temptations Liza Natraj Nieve Designer Couture OMYGOD Peppermint Premier Designs Promise by Linzi Jay Rainbow Club Rainbow Club Headdresses Rhapsody Richard Designs Ritzy Crystal Starlet Jewellery The Earring Boutique Twilight Designs Urban Angels Warren York International

Shoes

Antonio Villini Arianna Belle Benjamin Adams Couche Tot Else by Rainbow Club Frazer & James of Knightsbridge

Torre

Alyce Designs by FF London Amanda Wyatt Arianna Calla Rosa Designs Collections by June Ellen Demetrios Donns Diamonds Emmerling Halo & Co Heading Up! Inca Ivory and Co Tiaras Lemonade Linzi Jay Bridal Liza Natraj Nieve Designer Couture OMYGOD Promise by Linzi Jay Rainbow Club Headdresses Rhapsody Richard Designs Ritzy Crystal

Benmark Lingerie Blue Ribbon Petticoats Bodywrap Bride By Wishes Carnival Creations Diva Intima Dominique Lingerie Elila Lingerie Glamour You Bra Heading Up! Julie France Body Shapewear Jupon Accessories Ltd Jupon Petticoats Ltd Lormar Merry Modes Power Curves Secret Weapons Sticky Straps Swappers

Tiffany Prom

Veils

Amanda Wyatt Demetrios Elegance by Elizabeth Elizabeth Dickens Emmerling Farage Halo & Co Heading up!
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Cameron Ross

Trudy Lee

Men’s formalwear
Anthony Formalwear Antonio Villini Avant Garde by Heirloom Cameron Ross Etiquette Formal Hire Heirloom Waistcoats Jean Yves Masterhand Meadows Bridal Shoes Peter Posh Formal Hire Robelli Torre The Ultimate Formal Suit Hire Company Victoria & Edward Wilvorst

Rainbow Club
Gorgeous Goya London Hermoine Collection Hilary Morgan Hollywood Envy by Precious Formals Jean Yves Jim Hjelm Occasions JLM Europe Joan Lee Kelsey Rose Little Temptations Lou Lou Luna B Lux Gal by Precious Formals

Childrenswear

15 Teen by Precious Formals Alexia Designs Amanda Wyatt Angel Couche Tot Emmerling Frazer & James of Knightsbridge Gino Cerruti Glam Gurlz by Precious Formals Joan Lee Linzi Jay Childrenswear Little Temptations London Harmony Lou Lou Lux Gal by Precious Formals Peppermint Posh Angels by Precious Formals Premier Design Starlets Junior Prom Tara Lee True Bride True Essentials Twilight Designs Twinklets Communion Dresses Venus Bridal Victoria Kay Watters

Veromia
MacDuggal Manon Mark Lesley Kiss Prom Mascara by the House of Frank Saul Mori Lee Occasions by PLG PF Starz by Precious Formals Phoenix Gowns Posh Angels by Precious Formals Posh Precious by Precious Formals Precious Divas by Precious Formals Precious Prom by Precious Formals Premier Designs Promise by Linzi Jay Reprise Prom Ruby’s Gems by Precious Formals Sassy Boo

Opulence by Romantica
Signature Starlets Junior Prom Tiffany Prom True Bride Twilight Venus Bridal Victoria Kay Watters

Special extras / services / trade associations
Bridal Consultancy Service Bridal Industry Development Bridal Retailers Network Brimas Bridal Software Concept Covers Consultancy Service (Bridal) Eastman Staples Else By Rainbow Club Klassy Covers Merry Modes Omnisew/Omni-Pro-Steam Propress Fabric Steamers Retailers Network (Bridal) Services and Trade associations Victoria & Edward Xedo Software

Prom

15Teen by Precious Formals Alexia Designs Alvina Valenta Alyce Designs by FF London Amanda Wyatt Angel Anoushka G Bluemoon Champagne Fashions Crystal Breeze Prom Diamond Edition D’Zage Prom Fairygodmother Gino Cerruti Glam Gurlz by Precious Formals

Media

Ronald Joyce

Maggie Sottero

Bridal Buyer / www.bridalbuyer.com Perfect Wedding Wedding Ideas Scottish Wedding Directory
37

CAROLINE ATELIER
AWARD WINNING BRIDAL DESIGNER

Style - Emmy

All New Stockists Welcome
www.caroline-atelier.com [email protected] (00353) 877704341

the AwArds 2o12
On 5 december, the boxes were closed, and the ly, those who have awards entries were opened. short made it to the finalist lists will be informed. now is the time to book your ticket for the big event and plan to celebrate the best, in style
he Bridal Buyer awards stand for excellence within our industry, and recognise the professional expertise and creative talents of the individuals and companies who have helped ensure that uK bridal design is of world-class standing. reaching the finalist line up is a considerable achievement and allows use of the awards Finalist branding for a full year. the awards ceremony will take place in harrogate on Monday 12 March, during BBeh, at the harrogate exhibition Centre, and will be hosted again by tV stylist John scott. the glittering event, attended by more than 600 guests representing all sectors of our industry, is a highlight of the year, and when the winners in the following categories are announced:

t

leek and wensleydale cake with beurre blanc sauce roast chicken supreme* Crushed new potatoes with tarragon sauce assorted spring vegetables strawberry millefeuille with yorkshire clotted cream * Vegetarian option Butternut squash and goat’s cheese gratin with basil oil

Menu

Best Bridal Manufacturer Best Groomswear Manufacturer/supplier Best Bridesmaid & Prom Collection Best Occasionwear Collection Best Bridal headdress designer British Bridal designer of the year Best Plus size Collection

Best British Bridal designer Best student designer wedding dress of the year

Best Bridal retailer north Best Bridal retailer south Best Groomswear retailer north Best Groomswear retailer south Best new Bridal retailer Best retail website

Champagne reception Pre-dinner entertainment dinner awards presentation dancing to live band discotheque ‘
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39

The Art of the Dress
www.victoriakaygowns.co.uk
Fantastic offers always available, Quality & Styles at competitive prices. With no minimum order.
Please visit our web site to see our stunning new collection.
For more information or to book an appointment please contact us on 01424 427284 or e-mail: [email protected]

Style: 1036

wedding dress of the year
finalists

The

t
42

he voting has closed, the nominations have been counted, and on 12 March, at the Bridal Buyer awards 2012, the winner of the coveted Wedding dress of the Year title will be announced. the voting process has taken four months with brides-tobe nominating their favourite gown via the Your & Your Wedding and national Wedding show websites. We asked category sponsor ivory & co to select a sparkling finish for each gown.

Amanda Wyatt Style Sookie
A stylish strapless satin gown with a

Ellis Bridals Style 11197

Justin Alexander Style 8610
tulle features a sweetheart

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Mark Lesley Style Eve

Maggie Sottero Style Adeline

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Veromia Style VR61067

The Bridal Buyer Awards
To book tickets for the Awards, see page 39
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for the bride

Manufacturers & suppliers of distinctive petticoats, Carnival lingerie, garters, stockings, hair crystals, sticky straps, gloves and body shapers for Brides, Bridesmaids & Evening Gowns to create a Desirable & Enhancing Silhouette
ALL PETTICOATS ARE MADE IN THE UK.

Our petticoats will also feature in the main catwalk shows at BBEH

ALL PETTICOAT ORDERS DISPATCHED IMMEDIATELY
Unit D2 Fairacres Industrial Estate, Dedworth Road, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 4LE Tel: +44 (0) 1753 622922 | Fax: +44 (0) 1753 622933 web: www.jupon.com | email: [email protected]

on the phone to...
Okay, where did the idea for Klassy Covers come from? When setting up my stand for Tusneem Bridal at BBEH it was difficult to make a plain mannequin look engaging. I bought a piece of sparkly lace and attached it to the mannequin and had so many enquiries that a new concept was born. How did you set about finding a maker? And where are you manufacturing now? We started off with freelance seamstresses, but when production increased we found our own manufacturer in Manchester. Now we are looking to bring all manufacturing inhouse. Business is obviously booming. How many retailers have you sold into in the UK, and are you focusing on bridal shops? We have sold to over 250 bridal shops to date and nearly 175 fashion boutiques in the UK alone. Are you selling abroad, too? Yes all over, as far as Australia. How are you publicising the collection? Via magazines such as Retail Focus, VM focus, also Morplan advertising but mostly has been

Spotting a niche, this talented designer-turned-entrepreneur, created the Klassy Covers concept
VM and Display show in London and Modatex in Essen. We are also looking at New York as another hot spot for Klassy Covers. Which model is your own personal favourite? I would say the new Dark Silver Sequin cover. It has wow-factor appeal and the right tones to contrast with almost anything. Four pieces of advice please on how brdal retailers can use Klassy Covers to best advantage. The covers speak volumes so don’t overdo your windows. Work with a colour pallette using different type covers to create more interest in both the windows and instore. For example, silver, ivory and white tones for Winter or Christmas. Picking a theme makes it easier. Change your looks all the time with new covers. Speak to one of our team for advice –we can recommend the best selection of covers to suit the look of your boutique. What are your plans for future development – where will you be, say, five years from now? We are progressing rapidly with Klassy Covers, but our plans are to work with VMs from the high street to high end stores, to expand our range with Morplan for the UK, and to move on into supplying distributors globally.

Tusneem Jabbar
How many different models do you have now? What’s the very newest and which one looks like being the all-time best seller? A mix of the lace and sequin covers are the most popular. We have over 30 styles in our standard bust form collection and over 60 styles for bespoke which caters for all shapes of mannequins.

word of mouth. So has this become an allconsuming passion, or are you still designing bridal gowns? I was a bespoke designer for 12 years before I moved into the

wholesale arena, and realise now that, as a designer who uses very elaborate fabrics, cuts and embellishment, the broad, midmarket audience was not for me. My bridal label will be back some time in the future but very much focused on the top end and with a celebrity involvement. Where will you be exhibiting in 2012?

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Making May special
AugustA jones

While many of the world’s top names are working on the collections that they will debut at the exclusive White Gallery London show in May, we asked Event Director Alejandra Campos to explain what makes this the definitive designer event
clAire miscHevAni dAvid fielden *AlAn HAnnAH

Where and when

White Gallery London Battersea Evolution 20-22 May 2012 www.whitegallery.com
If you had to define White Gallery London’s particular USPs, what aspects of the show would you choose? This exhibition has so many distinct features that make it stand out from all other bridal trade events, but they are actually quite easy to define. Of overall importance is the fact that, for the very first time, top designers have a platform that is totally dedicated to their talents, and focused on their positioning within the market. The exhibitors may be very different to one another in their approach and the personality of their product, but they share the same price points and the same discerning clients. From a retailer’s standpoint, White Gallery houses a tremendous choice of top-end, international talents; they don’t have to search out brands appropriate to their needs because they are all here, in one place. And of course, it goes without saying that the location of White Gallery is perfect for the visitor; its proximity to the airports and mainline stations is so important, but the fact that it is so close to some of the capital’s best hotels, restaurants and shops adds appeal to the proposition. May will see the third edition of the show. What are the major changes that have taken place since it was introduced in 2010? The move to Battersea was probably the most meaningful change. Saatchi Gallery was a wonderful launch pad for White Gallery London, but Battersea Evolution allows us to present visitors and exhibitors with a practical yet beautiful layout in a striking, purpose-built environment. Having the flexibility to structure the floor plan within the available space means that our individual designers can have their own intimate areas; buyers responded really well to the ambience we created in 2011 and we have added more features to that for this year’s show.In addition to the Kissing Room, a lavish Champagne bar, and the Vintage Café, there’s something new and especially exciting, but I can’t tell you just yet… How many exhibitors are you expecting this year? We now have 57 top-name international designers showing their 2013 collections at White Gallery London – 19 more than
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kAtzi

“White Gallery creates a fine platform for the best in bridal design, with prestige and elegance.”
Kim McCool, London Bride Couture

peter lAng

The Designers
Alan Hannah Anny lin Anoushka g Amanda Wakeley Augusta jones Babe Blue Bridalwear david fielden donna lee elizabeth stuart gatti nolli couture gemy couture Halo & co Harriet Wilde Hollywood dreams jesus peiro ian stuart Bride ivory & co katzi jewellery kisui johanna Hehir lea-Ann Belter linea raffaelli lusan mandongus lyn Ashworth madeline isaac-james mH tiaras miamia nicki macfarlane novia d’Art ottavio nuccio ozlem suer pepe Botella peter lang polly edwards rachel simpson ritva Westenius sanyukta shrestha stephanie Allin stephanie Browne stewart parvin terry foc the vintage Wedding dress company tobi Hannah vivien sheriff Yolancris

toBi HAnnAH

iAn stuArt

miAmiA

Carina, Carina Baverstock
lineA rAffAelli

“I can’t wait for White Gallery - I love seeing all that talent and creativity under one roof.”

HAlo & co

The New Talents

claire mischevani ellie & charlotte Hazaar of london katyakatya shehurina

sAnYuktA sHrestHA

ivorY & co

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jesus peiro

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AmAndA WAkeleY

the first edition. Alongside some of Britain’s very finest talents, there are world-class designers from France, Italy, Belgium, Germany, Spain, the Middle East, the Far East, North America and Australia. Several of the designers staged individual catwalk shows at White Gallery London in 2011. Is this something that will be repeated this year, and if so, who will be up there in the spotlight? White Gallery London‘s invitationonly catwalk shows have been hugely successful. They are wonderfully glamorous and give designers the opportunity to present their collections with their own stamp to their buyers and the media. Visitors are inspired by seeing new looks come to life on stage and particularly the way the designers themselves choose to style and accessorise them – it often helps confirm those buying decisions. The reception prior to each show is a great opportunity to mingle, too. The international press love the White Gallery London catwalk performances – proof of that is their attendance, their feedback and the resulting worldwide coverage. This year, in their own, specially-staged shows, will be Alan Hannah, Anoushka G, Ian Stuart, Ritva Westenius, Stephanie Allin and Stewart Parvin. What sort of press coverage did the event, and exhibitors themselves, get last year? The media coverage was phenomenal – valued at over £250K. White Gallery London and the participating designers were featured in more than 50 publications around the world, as well as online and on television. We work really closely with our media partners to guarantee coverage for our designers as part of our PR and marketing campaign. What is planned for the other exhibitors – anything special? Oh yes. In the second edition we introduced the Designers Preview and New Talents Preview catwalks which were extremely well received by everyone. White Gallery London 2012 will feature two amazing special productions. We are currently working on the programme but some of the designers already confirmed include Elizabeth Stuart, Johanna

Hehir, Kisui, Lusan Mandongus; Sanyukta Shrestha and Terry Fox. To last year’s New Talents – Terry Fox, Sanyukta Shrestha, The Vintage Wedding Dress Company and Tobi Hannah – White Gallery proved to be a springboard to recognition, creating instant awareness of their name, style and product. Who should we be looking out for this May? The 2011 young stars are exhibiting this year as highlyrespected designers. Following in their footsteps for 2012 are Claire Mischevani, Ellie & Charlotte, Hazaar of London and KatyaKatya Shehurina. Alongside the bridalwear designers who will be debuting their 2013 collections at White Gallery, who will be there showcasing accessories? We have some sparkling names here: jewellery and headdresses from Babe, Halo & Co, Ivory & Co, Katzi, Malis Henderson, Peter Lang, Polly Edwards, and Stephanie Browne; shoes by Rachel Simpson and Harriet Wilde and hats and headpieces from the Royals’ favourite, Vivien Sheriff. White Gallery must require some serious investment. Where is the promotional money spent? How do you spread the word about the show and pull in the international buyers and press? Our integrated marketing and PR plan is a vital element in the success of White Gallery London. Its aim is two-fold: to create global awareness among the target visitor audience and to maximise on exposure for exhibitors. The wide promotional mix includes advertising, direct marketing, and web and e-marketing campaigns on targeted markets around the world. Bridal Buyer’s publications and website are also a pillar to support our clients and be in constant communication with the industry at all levels. In addition, we have an overseas programme for international buyers and a dedicated PR agency. If I have a shop and I want to attend the show, what do I do? Online registration for buyers will open in January at www. whitegallery.com where there will also be regular exhibitor and event updates.

joHAnnA HeHir

elizABetH stuArt

nickY mAcfArlAne

ritvA Westenius

stepHAnie Allin steWArt pArvin

pepe BotellA

donnA lee

showing at:

wedding photography: www.tapasmaiti.com

Benjamin Adams
Double platforms 5-inch heels Crystal-encrusted wedges 8 new styles SRP £159-£350 t +44 (0)20 8509 0001 W www.paradoxlondon.com Style: Lamour

Else
Cross-over straps Wedge and block heels Elegant embellishments 16 new styles SRP £55-£65 t +44 (0)1392 207030 W www.rainbowclub.co.uk Style: Grenadine

Pink
Lace treatments Super-high heels Scalloped courts 3 new styles SRP £54.95-£69.95 t +44 (0)20 8509 0001 W www.paradoxlondon.com Style: Fancy

Feet first
With no less than 24 shoe collections stepping out at Harrogate in March, Bridal Buyer asked some of the leading brands for the new season’s trends. We got a sparkling, foot-tapping reaction
Hassall
Velvet and lace Floral decoration Vintage detailing 13 new styles SRP £55-£65 t +44 (0)1392 207030 W www.rainbowclub.co.uk Style: Enchanted

Shades Shoes
Embroidery, pearls, sequins and crystals Decorated wedges Contemporary courts 20 new styles t +44 (0)1476 514524 W www.shadesshoes.com Style: 728

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Heavenly Shoes
Jewelled platforms Pointed diamanté straps Pleating 19 new styles SRP £55-£65 t +44 (0)1634 406052 W www.herbestkeptsecret.com Styles: l-r: Antibes, Vegas, Hollywood

Belle
Lots of sparkle Cut-away sides Platforms 3 new styles SRP £79.99-£99.99 t +44 (0)20 8509 0001 W www.paradoxlondon.com Style: Violet

Rainbow Couture
Skyscraper heels Diamanté detailing Pleating effects 9 new styles SRP £125-£149 t +44 (0)1392 207030 W www.rainbowclub.co.uk Style: Dali

Lexus
Lace court shoes Little kitten heels to towering 8.5cm Gorgeous glitz 20 new styles SRP £40-£100 t +44 (0)1902 456800 W www.lexusinternational.com Style: Felicity

Perfect Bridal
Vintage-style lace Loads of bling Sexy platforms 30 new styles SRP £42-£90 t +44 (0)1455 823814 W www.perfectbridalshoes.co.uk Style: Flo

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Foxy lady
Wild, whacky and wonderfully adventurous, Terry Fox is a designer with an amazing pedigree. Confident and quirky herself, she is a favourite with stockists looking for something different as Dawn Walters discovered
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Not only are Terry Fox’s gowns the ultimate in romanticism, but her shop itself is a treasure trove of gorgeous delights. This attention to detail and wish to charm, means that every bride feels she is having a special, almost magical, experience when she goes to consult about her dress

s a liTTle girl, Terry Fox made CloThes For her Tressy dolls, packaged up the outfits and took them to school, accounts book in hand, to sell on to the other girls. later, wild, psychedelic fashion was very much her thing, and the only way to create the look she really wanted was to create it herself. living in london as a young woman in the 80s, a job with Zandra rhodes was a dream come true. “it was so exciting – the fabrics were beautiful. i loved the madness of the prints combined with the simplicity of the designs,” she says. “Then i worked for a number of companies and i couldn’t get enough of what the fashion world had to show me. i made for film and theatre, fashion shows and shops. it was mind-blowing to see the decade explode with ideas. i also discovered couture; a world of using the finest fabrics to create any shape you could imagine in your wildest dreams. i was lucky enough to work for the emmanuels, where i discovered the building techniques for creating couture bodices and this has remained in my work to the present day. i feel very privileged to have seen these methods applied and also sad to see them get forgotten as the years go on.”

Well, as an expert on couture techniques. “in between filming, they asked me to top and tail the show as a presenter. it was a fantastic experience. i like the down-to-earth side of things, and i enjoy showing people how things are done, as well as explaining all the behind-the-scenes stuff.” her book, Terry Fox Fashion Collection: 10 Couture garments to make from start to Finish, soon followed, as well as appearances on The Clothes show and a range of magazine articles. she set up the english Couture Company, running workshops for students. it was hugely successful and Fox hosted workshops all over the world. eventually, however, she found the venture was no longer challeging, so she sold it and went back into designing wedding dresses, her true passion.

The experience gained during these apprenticeships gave Fox the confidence to go it alone. her first collection, ‘Crazy’, was inspired by Christian lacroix and featured lots of colours with black and white stripes. she got an appointment to see the head buyer at harrods and they took the collection, together with a number of Fox’s bridal designs. “Walking along Knightsbridge and seeing one of my wedding dresses in harrods’ window was one of the highlights of my career!” she says. From this Fox made the move into producing mainly bridalwear. “in those days bridal fabrics, especially colours, were almost non-existent. i added blush colours to my collection by backing the classic ivory with coloured fabrics. girls loved it as it was very different at the time. The pieces i put into harrods sold out!” her unique style, enthusiasm and passion meant that many opportunities came Fox’s way. While running a sewing school for liberty of london she was asked to appear in an 18-part BBC series called Wear it

after several years producing for individual private clients from a studio, Fox opened her own store in suffolk in 2005. “i had been used to the one-off, made-to-measure side of the business so i thought i needed to find out about the retail side of the industry, plus i also wanted to do something different. i didn’t want to sell my dresses in a traditional bridal shop environment – i wanted it to be an experience, a bit like the first time a child discovers santa’s grotto! i wanted the shop to be a place just for brides; a maze of romantic colours, laces and silks, shiny things – diamantes and crystals, bowls of pearls to run your fingers through, vintage jars filled with dreams and glass bowls offering choices of embellishment…” her designs are also stocked in a number of retail outlets, six of which she picked up at White gallery last year. “The relationship between Terry Fox and a stockist is instant and special,” she says. “We work with each stockist to create something quite unique to them – making sure that they select a number of dresses from the main collection that work together, and appeal to the type of girls in their area. Then we offer individual variations – changes of colour and detail. some brides have more classic taste, but still want a Terry Fox ‘twist’ – you won’t believe the lengths that we can go to so a girl can do the rumba in a big silk dress! it has always been our belief that no one knows their business and its clients as well as our stockists do, so we aim to be here for them 24/7.” Fox’s target audience is quite diverse, as her dresses tend to attract those looking for something different. however, she says that each >
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Watch out for...
Terry is currently working on her 2013 collection, enticingly called Love is the Drug. This is a mystical collection of layered worked crafting techniques. The dresses have bohemian names such as Laudanum, Opium, Absinthe and La Fee Verte. We can’t wait to see what this

A hint of colour and a dazzling array of detail can be added to any gown

design has a reason for being there – she never produces a gown simply to make up the numbers in a collection. so there may be a vintage dress, a 60s-style dress, one that’s suited to the more mature bride, and so on. “i hate things to be too easy and feel i have to do something different and fresh, to push the boundaries a little – i suppose that’s because i get bored easily. i love to combine fabrics and textures such as firm silks and soft silks with georgette, ripped organza and hand-cut laces, highlighted with beadwork made from original vintage materials, including pearls, crystals, ribbons and appliqués. i love it when the bride says she keeps finding another detail on her dress each time she looks at it; from a hidden embroidered dragonfly, to a tiny blue ribbon, or organza ribbons with the couple’s names and wedding date embroidered on them.”

Photography Courtesy Of Matthew Christopher Gowns www.matthewchristopher.com

Fox says that she is inspired everywhere and by everything, most of all the whimsical and fantastical. “i believe in fairy stories, dream worlds and changeling creatures, especially the beautiful, serene and delicate ones who are a little bit playful, free-spirited and sometimes positively naughty. i love quirky and i often describe my style as rock Chic Fairy; i swear i have one of those living through the other side of my wardrobe!” Terry Fox dresses are manufactured in the UK to maintain control, consistency and provide flexibility to stockists. silk of all kinds is very much her mainstay fabric and infrastructure is her big thing; the entire dress is controlled from underneath. “in terms of what you see on top, i am always going to be big on colour, purely because the dresses look so gorgeous in colour,” she says. “i nearly always sell styles in ivory, but you can’t help falling in love with soft hazy pinks, pale greens and silver greys. i adore lots of layering to tone down the colouring and add depth. it’s a bit like painting furniture – you either take a brush to it and paint it one colour, or you apply several shades and brush it, polish it, age it and work it! overall, darkened ivories are a winner.” Fox believes that accessories are a major part of the overall look. “i like to style my girls for their wedding, which means that the accessories have to work with that design. We make many of our own headpieces and decorate our brides’ veils – but it’s the mix that counts, not the match.” Quirky mums looking for something a little different but “without committing the cardinal sin of upstaging the bride!” may like her motherof-the-bride range. This features many rare and unusual fabrics to achieve a one-off look. “Being of a similar age, i tend to connect with the mums,” she says. “i know that if it were me, i would like something stylish, in a good colour for me, simple but slightly edgy, and preferably something that i could wear again, with a 50s glamour line to it.” Bridesmaids are also catered for. a winner is a little flower fairy dress, in silk and tulle, embroidered with ribbons reading ‘Wedding Fairy’ or the child’s name. Fox is very excited to be showing her 2013 collection at White gallery. in may. “last year was so rewarding for us and we are really hoping to repeat that,” she says. and we know she will. Terry Fox + 44 (0)1284 752 191 / www.terryfox.co.uk

I

well recall Bridal Buyer’s Birth and its determined but fruitful struggle in achieving what today is a much-respected role within the bridal industry. i use the word ‘struggle’ advisedly, as i know of no-one who hitched their wagon to this industry – be they retailer, distributor, manufacturer or service provider – who did so without coming to well understand its meaning. they mostly learned, too, the massively positive offset of working in a friendly and emotionally satisfying environment of colleagues, customers and end users. One of my abidingly fond memories is of the overwhelming proportion of retail customers whose prime driving force was the sheer joy of their product and the purpose for which they were supplying it. i well recall my earliest department store connection with the industry back in the early 1950s period of austerity. at that time, bridal shops, as we know them today, were non-existent. Gowns were either individually made by an exclusive designer or, more often, by a dressmaker working to a chosen pattern, while shops and stores carried a few ready-made dresses on their eveningwear rail. trade grew at the expense of the dressmaker, and by the late 1950s, stores had established a ‘department’ – to the extent that, right after the January sales, wedding dresses were displayed in windows for one week. this was the start of the heydays for manufacturers like ronald Joyce and ellis Bridals. Manufacturers could fix a retail price then, and i recall there being a struggle to get them to allow a 50 per cent markup on their costs. this pattern of ready-made gowns grew for two decades along with the steady opening of bridal shops and store specialist departments. in those days retailers purchased their fashion spring and autumn, by appointment at the manufacturers’ west end showrooms. Gradually, this tradition was replaced by the fashion exhibition we know today, followed up by representatives carrying their ranges from shop to shop, while some of the larger manufacturers would travel from one city to another, like a circus, taking over hotel ballrooms. during this period, bridalwear was tagging along as

the recollections Ben roberts sent us for our 20th anniversary issue tell the story of industry change over the years. we thought you’d like to read them in full, and we’d like to thank Ben for the compliments in the last paragraph

we were

The way

fashionwear’s little sister, and in the late 70s, when the fashion industry started exhibiting in harrogate, with the then immature bridal industry taking what space it could in the hotels. soon afterwards, fashion and bridal split, and the little sister came of age, and moved into the exhibition halls. two things happened then which rocked the boat: first, the introduction of taiwanese sources of supply, and with it a whole new bridal look involving the use of beading embellishments (i was a supplier as well as a retailer at the time, and an early user of this new source). then, later, when europe grew and became a much larger market that included the uK, many of the big us bridalwear manufacturers set up bases here as a springboard into the new europe. at a stroke, the number of suppliers to the uK virtually doubled, dealing a blow to home producers and leaving my company with a 50 per cent reduction in sales that year. the upheaval completely changed the industry, eliminating a number of well-known names. But the new suppliers quickly found their level and grew the market and, as a result, more small bridal shops emerged then than at any other period. these mini entrepreneurs with laudable motives (so at odds with those in some other industries), plus two other factors, played a part in bringing stability in the market. the first was the arrival of Joseph sweeney and his formation of the rBa and later the BBa; he brought to the industry a wise hand of diplomacy and a firm hand of direction. the second is that the bridal business, in its maturity, has Bridal Buyer magazine, which has stayed the course and grown with it, by devoting itself entirely to industry affairs.
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S

sparkle
ome call it depression chic. as the economy sinks further into the doldrums, the last thing brides want to do is economise. they’d rather cheer themselves up by splashing out on something expensive; like classic costume jewellery for their wedding. paul Wendt, from Barberini Fashion, the UK and european distributor of two successful australian jewellery designer brands, is convinced brides are willing to ignore the recession, even if it’s just to spend that extra bit on their wedding accessories. Just as overly-ornamental jewellery flourished during the Great depression years of the 1920s and 1930s, so vintage costume jewellery is enjoying a resurgence during this modern-day world recession. “in the context of what’s going on economically, maybe designers are focusing more on the fun of the roaring 1920s,” he suggests. “of course, that’s how the roaring 20s came about in the first place. there’s a parallel in what’s happening nowadays.”

That certain

australian design has moved up to a whole new level and is now widely regarded as a centrestage player. down Under jewellery designers are among the world’s best

one of the brands that Barberini represents is peter lang, a sydney-based designer who specialises in hand-made jewellery featuring swarovski crystals and semi-precious stones. as well as earrings, necklaces, rings, bracelets, hair clips, brooches and belts, he also produces a range of bridal jewellery, very much of the art deco school of design. on his website, lang boasts that he has created one-off pieces for film, tV and music productions, and that his designs regularly grace magazine photo-shoots, red-carpet events and fashion shows. celebrities who have sported his creations include nicole Kidman in moulin rouge, Kylie minogue at the sydney olympics, lady Gaga, Kelly

rowland, liv tyler, paris Hilton, pink, Jerry Hall, Gillian anderson, Kelly osbourne, Beyoncé and amelia in X-Factor. lang’s spring/summer 2012 collection has several lines: spring crystal cascade has “a real elemental feel… with dewdrop crystals and seductive gold tones of mesh and metal, creating tribal and futuristic patterns,” while the summer coral turquoise line features “dramatic colours of red and turquoise” and “exotic tassels and stone settings”. then there’s the softer Vintage Golden Glow pearl line with its “double and triple strands and exquisite pearl-drop pendants”; and finally the signature Gala deco line with an “edgy but sophisticated look, crystal-encrusted deco scrolls and elaborate buckle-drop pendants”.

Barberini also represents leading australian bridal jewellery designer stephanie Browne, who focuses on hair accessories, headbands and belts (although she makes bracelets, brooches, cufflinks, earrings and necklaces, too). Featuring swarovski crystals and pearls, rhodium bases, emu and peacock feathers and silk flowers, Browne’s creations, like lang’s, hark back to that period between the two world wars. “the popular styles of the 1920s showgirl era,” is how she describes it. Wendt says both the brands he distributes have that special heirloom appeal. “it reminds brides of something their grandmothers used to wear. so it’s possible that, in future generations, their own grand-daughters will say the same thing.” Yet he’s keen to stress that his two brands don’t compete with each other. “stephanie is much more of a headpiece designer. peter is

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Main picture, left: sumptuous chains and ropes by Peter Lang. Above, from top left, clockwise haircomb and net by Stephanie Browne; Peter Lang’s jewelled straps; vintage comb from Brown’s new collection; opulent necklace by Lang; hairpiece by Browne: classic drop earrings by Lang; deco-style Browne comb; heavy signature bracelet by Lang

more earrings and necklaces. peter is darker, more edgy, which works well. He is more fashion-led than bridal.” Both lang and Browne design and handmake their jewellery in australia. the former set up business 30 years ago and has a factory in sydney. the latter has been designing for over 20 years with a workshop in melbourne. lang designs around 120 pieces a year for the UK bridal market. He is in around 50 european stockists including 20 bridal retailers, and asos, matches, Flannels and chattertons in the UK, Harvey nichols in dubai and Hong Kong, and tara Jarmon and Franck et Fils in paris. Browne has around 120 pieces available across 25 stockists in the UK, ireland, Germany, switzerland and France. Both designers cover the high end of the costume jewellery market, with wholesale prices ranging from £20 to £300. their success comes on a wave of great australian design in recent years, both in fashion and jewellery. Wendt suggests there are several reasons for this. “australia has a lot of multicultural influences,” he says. “We have big Greek and italian communities. there’s a strong asian influence. also, there’s a real going-out culture helped by the warm climate which encourages people to want to be showy when they dress up.”

When it comes to success this side of the globe, Wendt says that showing the brands at both Harrogate and the White Gallery has given his clients invaluable exposure. He was delighted with the results. the feedback from a more UK conservative culture was how excited they were to see something new and fresh. “australian jewellery is often quite dramatic,” he explains. showing the brands at Harrogate for the first time, he found that there was some resistance from potential stockists. “a few told us that they loved the look but that they didn’t think people brides in their area would wear this sort of thing. But we now have stockists all over the UK and the collections are flying out.” nevertheless, Wendt says he has to encourage his stockists to be bold with their own customers. “You have to get the brides to try on these pieces with their dresses so they can

see the overall look,” he explains. Wendt has been working as a fashion and accessories distributor since January 2010. Before that he spent 20 years as a management consultant. an australian himself, and now with Barberini Fashion, he’s london-based with an office in chelsea and a showroom in shoreditch. as well as peter lang and stephanie Browne, he represents a dutch fashion brand, spijkers en spijkers. When it comes to his two australian clients, the fact that he’s in the UK means he can offer european retailers a more personal touch than an australia-based distributor could, given the huge distance and different time zones. as the economy continues to stagnate, his biggest challenge now is to persuade retailers that designer costume jewellery is recessionproof. “i think there will always be luxury, however bad the economy gets,” he says, again pointing to the roaring 1920s. “Because we’re the high end of the market [in costume jewellery], we’ve been seeing sales growth. We’ve got the designer edge without it being outrageously expensive. there will always be brides who want quality and great design.” +44 7739 518701 www.barberinifashion.com see both brands at White Gallery, 20-22 may
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rmona keveza

R New York report
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of the Big apple bridal taking the proverbial bite out market is always a huge pleasure. and the a/w 2012 ing short of delicious ons that were shown were noth collecti

egardless of the climate – weather-wise or economic – New York is unquestionably one of the most vibrant and inspiring places to visit. it is round-the-clock alive, a great pulsating beat of a city, from the heart of glossy, glitzy manhattan to the sprawling suburbs to where most people head home to each night. twice a year, bridal market takes over and is a magnet for the country’s buyers (many travelling several thousand miles to be there) who want to see what’s on offer – and that covers everything from the mass-market labels with multiple-promotional offers to the uber-cool designer collections that play to an invitation-only audience. Bridal week is hard work, and gets harder every season because of the spread of the shows. You zigzag across the city through monstrous traffic jams, or wait interminably for a yellow cab driver to take pity on you and stop and then expect you to have every address detail, including the closest cross-streets to your final destination. a street number and road name won’t get you far here. But that’s all part of the game and once you suss out how to play it, and realise that a spare pair of flat shoes in your bag is as essential as a brolly, you can enjoy the whole, hectic experience.

New York’s original trade event, the wedding channel couture show, now revamped and re-branded as the couture show, takes up a decent-

Claire pettibone

Ines di Santo

sized chunk of the Barclay intercontinental hotel on east 48th (if you are cabbing it, that’s between Park and lexington!). the three-day event kicked off with a maggie sottero catwalk show, and some of the best gowns to have emerged from this label in seasons. Picking up on topend trends, there were great illusion backs, appliquéd laser-cut flowers and full-skirted ballgowns with layer over layer of point d’esprit. the lace ‘capes’ provided the perfect cover-up solution. watch out for a great harrogate in march when the new collection is unveiled in the UK. alongside some of the biggest Us names, such as Justin alexander, Jasmine, and demetrios, were many favourite international designer collections, like Novia d’art, lusan mandongus, two by rosa clara and marina K. an exciting find at the couture show was a new label, tulle, the work of design partners lai mcNairy and antonio gual, most recently responsible for the melissa sweet collection. their small but perfectlyformed range included romantic fishtales caught up with full-blown pink roses, and a fabulous heavy lace shirt-waister tied with a pink bow. over at Pier 94 and international Bridal week, many of white gallery regulars were strutting their stuff for an eager Us audience. ian stuart and david fielden led the wg Britpack that included stephanie allin, Johanna hehir, amanda wakeley, Nicki macfarlane and Vivien sheriff. claire Pettibone featured some extraordinary fabrics, including a number of country-house joie de toiles, some overlayed with a fine film of tulle; Junko Yoshioka added sequins to lace and created dramatic keyhole backs showing every bit of smooth skin possible, while classicist anne Barge, delighted buyers with her supremely chic, ladylike style. a fresh new name, sJ couture, presented a small, tight collection of vintageinspired gowns in silk tulle and silk charmeuse. Now in its second season (the first resulted in winning the 2010 emerging designer title at Phoenix Illusion takes on a fashion week) this label, the work of whole new meaning, designer Jeanne hankerson, is certainly used to form a ‘top’ going places. over a strapless dress, two other collections stood out from the or simply as a detail crowd: New Yorker matthew christopher, to echo a particular whose exhuberant approach makes for shape. Asymmetric tiers statement gowns with a real design twist edged in wide bands of – this time ‘shards’ of fabric that wrap tulle, were featured in a number of designer around the bodice, and angel rivera for collections his extraordinary back-scoop dress, edged in a band of perfect beadwork, with a vast train attached to a beaded panel below the waist. film star stuff, indeed.

the Us may be going through a rough patch, but the style, polish and investment that go into the designer runway shows give no clue to these recessionary times; lavish settings in the city’s best hotels, elaborate staging and dozens of models are part of the equation designed to make the big impression. romona Kevaza. what’s to be said? her dresses are simply divine, each and every one. her newest collection featured some beautiful point d’esprit pieces, often with long, flowing top-skirts over short, silk ones, and dramatic organza leaves adding texture and movement to a curvaceous fishtail or full ballgown. colour made a big statement here – rich reds, black and navy for elegant cocktailwear, lavenders and blues for full-on eveningwear. romona’s short dresses met with applause from a highly-appreciative audience and doubtless her big celeb following will be snapping them up fast. showing in the vast, mirrored ballroom at the Jumeirah essex house, facing central Park, ines di santo’s collection was in exactly the right surroundings – understated luxury all the way. superb fabrications and amazing, intricate embellishments are what one expects from this fivestar designer who works in partnership with her daughter Veronica and strives always to be that little bit different. this time round there were delicate shades of blush and vanilla alongside white and ivory, and skirts made of petals, edged in sequins, while fit-and-flare silhouettes included >

Junko Yoshioka

reem Acra

tulle

SJ Couture

Anne Barge

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PERFECTION – What brides expect on their big day, what bridal retailers ensure for the perfect dress. PROPRESS – The steaming brand that delivers on both. Some may say a marriage made in heaven!

small sleeves, illusion bateau necklines and out-size bow details. always beautifully styled for the catwalk, ines’s models had flowing ribbons around their wrists, held in place with a circlet of flowers – an idea worth copying. super-star reem acra uses her own fifth avenue showroom to debut new collections. her fall 2012 had a particular message – that lasercut sheer organzas and tulles are the new-generation lace. combining translucent paillettes and pearls with embroideries, her particular style has an air of lightness and a sense of delicacy, with scatterings of soft, see-through petals, and floor-length veilings adding a further dimension. slender mermaid shapes were the most popular here and while strapless ruled the day, there were sweet cap sleeves, too. sheer was also the story at monique lhuillier, the designer who, it seems, can do no wrong. there was a featherweight quality woven into the collection, with flowing chiffons, metre after metre of tulle, and superfine laces layered one atop the other to create a cloud of ever-moving textures. this collection was all about romance and fantasy with ruffled skirts, daringly-high split skirts, and bead-worked illusion tops over plain strapless bodices. the New York shows would not be the same without a performance by the highly-talented rani totman of st Pucchi. this year we were kept waiting, but the wait proved worthwhile. inspired by the 13th-century poet and philospher, rumi, who believed that “the spirit undergoes many an evolutionary process to become closer to the divine ego”, each gown in the collection has “a traditional basis but reflects movement in time and a modernised feel.” well that’s one way of putting it, certainly, but suffice it to say, for us less-poetic souls, the dresses are pretty fab, with detail piled upon extravagant detail, pearls and crystal layered onto lush fabrics, and folds cascading from corseted bodices in a waterfall of movement.

It’s all about making a big impression – vast trains, low-dipping backs, and innovative twists and turns of fabric to add shape and re-form silhouettes. For bridal, New York was at its gorgeous best

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were trends set in New York? without question. expect a new lightness that will filter its way through collections everywhere, intricate fabrics with surface detailing and elaborate selfprints, illusion panelling that becomes increasingly daring, but more than anything else a bow to quality and couture attention.

Angel rivera

Monique Lhuillier

Q&A

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You & your website

Helen Young, Web Editor at www.youandyourwedding.co.uk advises on running music and showing prices on your website and evaluates the ‘extras’ you have been asking about

Let’s face it; being able to promote any chosen charity is a worthwhile venture. Whether this impresses the bridal community as a whole I cannot say. One thing’s for certain; affiliating your brand to a well-known charity organisation – whether local or global – will certainly open the door for potential advertising beyond your own website, which can only be a good thing.

This is known as backlinking and yes, there are heaps of benefits! You can try sharing links with other sites by contacting them directly and offering a link exchange (i.e. you link to them and vice versa) or you can make it a prerequisite for any suppliers you stock, for example: ask them to link from their website to your site as a stockist. Backlinking is really the best way to spread the word about your brand with little effort, and if you’re time-poor, this could prove a real plus.

This could work either way. Perhaps ask what he can do for you. Does he have a big wedding customer base that he could put your way so that the deal is mutual? If not, I would limit the free exposure you’re offering. If he is still super keen to feature on your site, then yes, put some advertising rates in place so that it works for you too. Who knows what other potential advertisers this might attract?

I would advise looking into partnering up with a recognised e-card company who will already have the software in place. On the one hand this could be costly, but on the other it would ensure that you’re getting a quality product out there with your branding on.

I think the decision to add music to your website has to be a personal one. The main thing to find out is whether the track you’re using is rights-free or not. You’ll need to be careful that you don’t end up paying royalty fees on a popular track, just because you heard it on the radio and have found it online. For the most part, this puts a lot of websites off using music. If you do go ahead, you can try uploading sound yourself on to your website – there are lots of free programs online to do this. Alternatively, you could contact your website development team (if you have one!) for advice.

Whether you include prices or not, I think brides are always going to want to ‘shop around’ for a few options within their price range (and a few out of it!). Buying a wedding dress is such an emotional experience that this will surely dictate where someone buys their dress and not whether it has a visible price tag – within reason of course! You’ll also need to consider how quickly prices change each season and whether you have the resources to amend your website on a daily basis to keep prices current. In effect, this could have a negative impact and you don’t want to get a reputation for inaccuracy.

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LAUNCHING AT BBEH IN MARCH 2012 STAND C1 & C2
www.rosacouture.com [email protected] 01189 884472

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ver 120 guests from all sectors of the industry gathered at the recent glasgow event, hosted by Xedo and its partner company acs clothing, to discuss the key issues facing the market in 2012. topics covered ranged from the latest trends in men’s formalwear and bridalwear to new technology, online plans, and how software can help meet the challenges faced by retailers today and in the years ahead. It was a packed day of discussion groups and presentations and continued into the evening with a champagne reception and dinner at the city’s celebrated supper club. “If one thing is clear from this event, it is that the bridal and formal hire industry has a lot to talk about. It was unquestionably one of our most successful open days to date; the place was buzzing with lively conversation on everything from the latest fashions to the impact of social media – and it went on until late into the night,” said Xedo and acs managing director, richard freedman. “there may be a lot of gloom surrounding the economy as a whole, but the overwhelming mood at this year’s event was positive and forward-looking,” he added. the open day was carefully planned so that guests – designers, bridal retailers and menswear experts – could gain the maximum benefit. they were given the opportunity to get involved in a number of different, specially-planned sessions on the day, each one designed to deliver information, answer questions and encourage discussion. there were ‘breakout’ areas which were welcomed by guests as staff from Xedo were on hand to host demonstrations of the firm’s latest software and provide general assistance; the latter of course, is vital as new-generation technology is de-mystified by explanation. attendees at the presentation on internet marketing were told that while many independent retailers have traditionally viewed the online world as a threat, with the right strategy social networking sites and search engines could prove to be the essential tools that will keep their business moving forward in the years ahead. In addition, Xedo revealed its exciting strategy for helping its customers prosper in the online world.

The way forward

leading bridal software supplier Xedo software has used its recent open day to brief an audience of designers and retailers on the developments it believes will keep the industry buzzing in the year ahead

this included showcasing the upgraded Xedo bridal system which introduces a raft of improvements designed to help bridal retailers slash the time that gets swallowed up by setting up products, stock management, checking orders, invoicing and administration. Designed to incorporate feedback and suggestions from both sides of the industry into the service, the latest update underlines the company’s determination to deliver software that allows designers and retailers to connect and trade with maximum ease and benefit. By introducing a new level of flexibility through synchronising with the brand-new Xedo Bridal online (XBo) service, it provides retailers with instant access to their records irrespective of whether they’re on the shop floor, out at a wedding fair or even working from home using a laptop, smartphone or iPad. ”We had a fantastic time at the open day and it was great to meet other people and share ideas. We also loved hearing about what Xedo plans to do with both the web and with the new marketing module to help communicate with our customers and grow our business,” said melanie storer and claire Jackson, owners of Wedding Belles. the latest menswear trends show that while the popularity of grey formal wear continues to grow meanwhile, both designers and retailers must remain alert in what is an increasingly dynamic market. latest figures from acs show that choices have varied considerably over the past five years, with only seven of the top 16 waistcoat designs in 2008 still appearing in the 2012 order list. freedman said: “as an industry, we’ve got a lot to think about in the year ahead. fashions have always changed, but now the way that people shop and do business is changing too, and across the wedding sector people are going to have to keep abreast of the latest developments if they want to maintain momentum and keep their businesses moving forward.” Xedo 44 (0)141 781 6545 / www.xedosoftware.com
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Shiny boxes, for jewellery and haircombs Graham and Green www.grahamandgreen.co.uk

Tiered cake stands for little extras Cardtiers www.cardtiers.com

More choice
www.uniquecoathangers.co.uk who do the most amazing things with coathangers, trimming them with Cath Kidston, Laura Ashley or Liberty fabrics, or vintage lace, sequins and beads, spot net over satin, maribou feathers, metallic effect – pretty much anything you want. for dressmakers’ dummies, Art Decostyle heads and also a fab 5-tier millinery stand.

Stack of boxes, for hats, fascinators and shoes The Empty Box Company www.emptybox.co.uk

do a display hand for jewellery, either upright or lying down.

both mahogany and natural wood – what better way to hang your hats?

Columns and urns, great for shoes and jewellery DZD www.dzd.co.uk

Gilded wire platter – pile it high Marks and Spencer www.marksandspencer.com

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2011 WINNER Best Plus-size Collection

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Business things you should know

our latest round-up of advice to keep you well informed
Make it cheaper offers a webpage that can calculate how long a business has to switch provider, as will consultancies such as utility options who will also manage your account, deal with queries and any metering problems. and moneysupermarket.com, gocompare.com, uswitch.com and others can assist. But unlike comparison websites for consumers, these sites require you to make contact as they need to take details to perform a search.

Can businesses lower their energy bills?

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In June 2011, energy industry regulator Ofgem said that it wants a ‘radical overhaul’ in which the big six power companies’ complex tariffs are to go under the microscope. Adam Bernstein reports

uppliers often rely upon inaction from their customers when it comes to pricing. the supply of energy is no different. tariffs are always changing, so what seemed like a good deal when you signed up may be hopelessly out of touch with the market price now. it’s worthwhile shopping around at least once every year.

Before you can make any changes you need to be certain of the deal you’re on, the terms you’ve signed up to, including the rate you are being charged, whether there’s a standing charge and what the notice period is. energy companies are obliged to give notice of tariff changes to domestic users and microcompanies (under ten employees, annual gas usage under 200000 kwh or electricity usage under 55000 kwh). if that letter doesn’t arrive – or you fail to act upon it – you could be automatically rolled over into another contract with a rate of the supplier’s choosing and no exit route. indeed you may only have a 30-day period to instigate a switch. further, the window of opportunity to switch can be 90 to 120 days before the contract expires. according to energy consultancy utility-options.co.uk if a business can prove (or debate long enough) that the letter wasn’t sent, some utility suppliers will admit defeat and break a rolled-over contract. arguably, if a letter was sent there should be an electronic reference to it; you should request a copy under data protection rules.

you can leave your old supplier if you move premises. However, don’t move into the new premises and rejoice at being contract-free. on the contrary, you’ll have inherited the supplier that the previous occupier was tied to and you’ll be charged ‘out-of-contract rates’ which may be twice as much as was charged to the previous tenant, so you must enter into a formal energy supply contract. if you keep switching you can take advantage of ‘new customer’ rates offered by the energy suppliers. these rates are often used as loss leaders, but again, you’ll need to keep tabs of your notice window to play this game.

Statistics
According to Ofgem, business energy costs have almost Only 15 per cent of small businesses know what rate A good price for electricity at the time of writing is just under 10p/unit (kWh) but some suppliers are renewing contracts at around 16p/unit and out-of-contract rates

your credit rating has a serious impact on rates quoted and some suppliers won’t offer to supply businesses with a credit score under 46/100. improving your business credit rating will yield results for your business overall. your postcode influences the rate too – electricity transmission costs charged by national Grid (who own the power lines) are built into the unit charge – and where you are based can add up to 15 per cent to a unit of electricity. the length of the contract affects the prices you pay. rather like the deals offered on a fixed-rate mortgage, you’ll pay more initially for longer-term deals because you’re hedging against rises in rates. But, as rates rise, the better the value you will see being returned. some energy suppliers are pushing businesses to install ‘smart meters’ on the basis that it will save money as they only pay for energy consumed instead of estimated. But smart meters are in their technical infancy and while they can aid cashflow, they will restrict the suppliers you can move to. ideally you should return meter readings to the energy supplier on a regular basis. there are savings that can be made by paying for usage via direct debit rather than by cheque on receipt of the paper bill – at the time of writing you can save two per cent with eDf and four per cent with eon. so whatever your situation, don’t let inertia stop you from switching. Moving energy supplier is not difficult, or time consuming. the new supplier, or the consultant, will make the switch for you. the bottom-line? read terms and conditions carefully. >
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02

Ten ways to avoid getting a tax investigation

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Tax investigations are bad news – they take time and cost money, and should be avoided. Jason Piper, a Technical Officer at the Association of Chartered Certified Accountants explains

proportion of tax enquiries opened each year are totally random, but many more are targeted on ‘high risk’ sectors, rather than specific traders in those areas. if your number comes up, there’s nothing you can do when HM revenue and customs send out task forces of specially-trained inspectors to investigate businesses thought to be the most likely tax offenders. But you can make sure that you’ll only ever be in the ‘random’ section by following some guidelines and good practices which should help keep the whole process as quick and painless as possible if you are selected. Bear in mind that for obvious reasons HMrc won’t publish the exact signs they look for, or the precise metrics they’ll treat as suspicious, but experience (and common sense) says… as far as HMrc are concerned, if your return is late then that may be a good indication that you’re too disorganised to have kept proper records. therefore, they’ll have a better chance of finding something amiss in your late tax return than in one that was submitted on time. avoid estimates – you shouldn’t need to use them at all, but if you do, explain why. Make sure that what you put into the tax return agrees with all the supporting records. ask for assistance from your accountant – tax returns are long, complicated and change every year, so don’t just copy across from last year. this will help with the first two points above, so making sure that if you do get an enquiry it’ll be a random one – and then you can answer all the questions quickly. if a tax inspector asks for details of them and you can’t hand them over, they’ll suspect the worst and assess you to tax accordingly. apart from anything, there are legal requirements to retain the information, although photocopies, scans and the like are acceptable, so you could get away with a cD or two rather than whole filing cabinets full of paper. remember to keep backup copies of everything; the cost of discs/thumb drives and the like is so low now that there’s no excuse, especially when you compare it to the cost of losing all your records and having HMrc estimate the numbers for you...

vehicle, say so. if you had a flood and lost weeks of work, make sure that the costs and any insurance proceeds are clearly identified in the return. any inspector worth their salt will ask you where monies have come from or why your turnover has suddenly dipped compared to competitors. tax is complicated; if your affairs are complex using a specialist will reduce the risk of errors creeping in. further, they are more likely to identify deductions that you should be claiming, such as enhanced capital allowances. remember, though, that you must be honest with your accountant; there’s nothing they’ll be able to do if you’ve held things back and HMrc find out. any good accountant will ask for ‘handover’ details from their predecessor. there are several reputable providers around or your accountant may be able to recommend one. But as always, do your research thoroughly; there’s no point paying for cover you don’t need, or worse, not getting what you thought you’d paid for. . there may be penalties for any mistakes in your return that they do find, but they’re reduced for co-operation. on the other hand, if you ignore the first letter, HMrc may have to resort to formal information notices to get what they want and these will be framed for the revenue’s convenience, not yours. if you don’t reply to formal notices, daily penalties can be imposed. if you are being investigated, don’t be afraid to ask HMrc to put their questions in writing, and then answer those questions only, clearly and completely but without any extra information. Very few tax inspectors have any real world experience of running a small business, and they may quite innocently get the wrong end of the stick, and start asking you huge numbers of questions to try to settle an issue that isn’t really there. you don’t have to agree to a face-to-face meeting, but if you do you should get an agenda and have an adviser present. review HMrc’s notes afterwards as they will be part of their evidence, so challenge any inaccuracies in writing. HMrc intelligencegathering is getting better. they cross-check information from many sources to see if the same details crop up, and if you have unexplained cash deposits in your bank accounts, own too expensive a car or take too many foreign holidays, they are likely to find out. over the next four years, they and the Department for Work and pensions will be investing £45m in a fraudmonitoring system, specifically to look for anomalies in computerised records. the mortgage industry already collaborates with HMrc in the Mortgage Verification scheme, checking that the income declared on a mortgage application matches the details submitted to the taxman.

the inspector probably doesn’t know your business, or possibly even very much about the sector as a whole, so avoid or explain any specialist terms. . if you’ve been left money by a distant relative and used it to buy a new
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03

Leasing premises?

and should represent value for money. Whilst the initial rent will be a known fixed amount, your landlord will want the ability to review your rent, commonly every five years. as the lease code 2007 states, the rules by which the rent can be changed need to be clear and understandable. the market norm is for upwards-only rent. However, whilst there has been considerable debate as to whether up and down rent reviews should be compulsorily imposed on landlords, the former are still holding good. However, other methods of review are becoming more widespread particularly indexlinked reviews. a tenant may also be able to negotiate a maximum uplift percentage giving certainty as to its overall costs exposure going forward. there should always be an agreed independent method of resolving any disputes.

There are a number of common mistakes that tenants make when leasing property. Adam Youatt, a partner in the real estate department of law firm Gateley, guides you through to maze

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easinG preMises is Generally one of the top three expenses of any company. it is also one of the longest commitments that a business makes, requiring owners to predict how they will perform in the future – difficult for even the most established players. it is vital that, as a tenant, you assess the issues well in advance of signing on the dotted line and consider the implications of unquestioningly accepting the terms landlords have traditionally offered.

the average length of a commercial property lease has been falling over the past decade or so. ten or 15 year terms are now more the norm for office premises often with the right for the tenant to terminate the lease at the end of years five and ten whilst retail leases tend to run for up to ten years. for industrial premises short-term six-year leases are widely available. a tenant also pays less stamp Duty land tax on a shorter-term lease. if long-term continuity and security are a concern then options to renew for further short terms should be considered. the starting position of any negotiations should be an unconditional right to terminate early. at the very most, the only conditions that should be accepted are those recommended by the lease code – ie that the annual rent is up to date; occupation is given up; and there are no continuing sub-leases. it is possible for a business to find itself in the position of having leased space it no longer requires. in those circumstances, the ability to easily off-set or off-load that liability, without onerous restrictions, is very important. landlords have been keen to keep a tight control over the terms of any sale or under-letting of a tenant’s lease, but both are ways a tenant can either pass on or reduce the cost of leased premises. any restrictions should be reasonable, seeking to balance the landlord’s desire to protect its capital value interest in the property and the tenant’s need to effectively manage its business costs.

unless you are taking on a brand new premises, it is likely that they will not be in perfect condition. it is also likely that, unless addressed, the repairing obligations of the lease will make you responsible for returning the premises to the landlord in a better state than you received them. this can lead to some expensive works or payments to the landlord at both ends of your occupation. agree the condition of the property at the beginning of the lease, ideally backed by photographs, and limit your obligations accordingly.

most commercial leases will let the tenant off having to carry out repairs that are caused by a risk for which the landlord has insurance cover. Most leases will also let the landlord off insuring against risks that are not easily or economically insurable, such as damage caused by terrorist activity. However, leases that make the tenant responsible for repairing damage caused by a risk that the landlord doesn’t insure, are unfair; the tenant has a relatively short interest in the property whereas the landlord has the long-term capital interest. if the building is destroyed by terrorist activity it should not be the tenant that has to reinstate the premises.

rent is the most obvious leasing cost and with the advice of a good surveyor it should be straightforward to establish if this is being set fairly. But it is the additional costs, particularly service charges and insurance rent, that can come as a surprise. service charge caps, or even inclusive rents, are becoming more common. insurance costs should be fair and reasonable

any physical changes to the premises will commonly require the landlord’s consent. this may be timeconsuming and costly so should only be reasonably required where you are going to do something that affects the structural integrity or capital value of the premises. for minor non-structural internal changes there should be limited restrictions. you may also want to use the premises for a different operational part of your business or sell your lease to a business that is in a different sector to your own. you therefore need to ensure that the permitted use under the lease is sufficient for your purposes but also flexible enough to still be a marketable lease.
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www.madelineisaacjames.com [email protected]

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Limited number of exclusive territories still available. Experienced sales agents required, email [email protected]
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UK agent | Andrew Roberts Agencies Ltd Island House, East Swinford Mill | Swineford, Bristol, BS30 6LW Tel: 0117 932 7905 | [email protected] | www.wilvorst.de

Best men’s fashion to celebrate www.masterhand.com T: 01622 844670 [email protected]

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Moments in

Fitting subjects

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new web technology is enabling retailers to reach out to internet-savvy consumers, says Chris Partridge. But would it work for bridal? think not
that allows them to set up virtual stores anywhere they like, in the street, in a mall or at a festival. Recent locations included trafalgar square. the store is invisible – created by a WiFi network linking to customers’ smartphones or tablets (currently iphone or ipad2 only, but will be extended to other operating systems if trials are successful). When customers reach the spot, they can log on to the WiFi network and download an app that displays a selection of garments and accessories that are being promoted there. they take pictures of themselves using the built-in phone or tablet cameras, and dress themselves using the app. If they like what they see, they can order them right away for delivery to their homes. they can even upload the pictures to Facebook or twitter so their friends can see their choice. simon Forster, debenhams.com director says: ‘this really is the future of high street shopping. It combines the hassle-free element of online, with the fantastic backdrops of iconic uK locations.” the goldRun technology would be extremely useful for retailers exhibiting at shows, as it would allow them to sell to visitors without having to provide an expensive fitting room. online fashion retailer meemee. me uses a simple ‘be honest about your body type’ approach. It invites visitors to its online store to enter four essential measurements from shoulders to hips, and to choose between ‘pear’, ‘hourglass’ and ‘rectangle’ for body shape. the site can then give a better approximation of how a garment will look. a more sophisticated approach to ‘dressing’ visitors to a website is adopted by Berlin-based upcload. to use an upcload-equipped website, buyers upload a full-length image of themselves holding a dvd. Because all dvds are exactly the same size and colour, the system can work out the customer’s measurements with a considerable degree of accuracy, especially if the customer dresses in close-fitting clothes for the picture. this technology could be used by bridalwear retailers to ensure they have a bride’s measurements correctly before a first appointment and ensure they have gowns that fit properly in stock. Because the system records a picture of the customer, it is possible to create accurate images of the garment being worn as well as giving the reassurance that the size will be right. upcload has started a collaboration with north Face in the us and will be rolling out a uK trial this summer.

eal shops have the huge advantage over online retailers in that they offer real fitting rooms where brides can experience the gown and be reassured that it fits, falls properly and looks truly fabulous – which is why fashion sales online are dragging compared to their bricks and mortar competitors. today’s brides want to browse designs from home or during their lunch hours, and shops that fail to give them that option may see them going elsewhere, but while good websites are essential in bridal and the in-store experience a vital part of the buying equation, the high street needs something more as it is here where remote shopping is important. although it may not affect our industry right now, it is worth knowing that technologists are developing many ways of helping online window-shoppers get a better idea of how a garment will look on them. a company in estonia, Fits.me virtual Fitting Room, has developed a set of robotic mannequins called FitBot that adjust themselves to hundreds of thousands of real body types. FitBots are being sold to clothing manufacturers to help them with patterns and size-grading and also to allow a customer visiting a website to enter their measurements so that the right size in that brand can be automatically chosen, and displayed in the right shape for their body type. they will, in effect, see the garment as it will appear when they wear it. the FitBot system may ensure a garment bought online will fit properly, but it still does not show the customer what it will look like in the mirror. For the reassurance that a new garment will be ‘totally them’, shoppers need a system that will show them actually wearing it. a number of ‘magic mirror’ technologies are emerging that take an image of the customer from their webcam or mobile phone and overlay pictures from the catalogue. It is a formidably difficult problem. the system must estimate how big the person is, which is almost impossible just from a picture. It must also try to model how the garment will fall over their body, whatever strange pose they might have adopted for the photo. Just plonking the garment on top of the customer’s image isn’t going to create a good impression. debenhams has been trialling a system called goldRun

SONY TABLETS LOgiTEch cOLOr cOLLEcTiON cOmBO KEYBOArd + mOuSE brightens up your computer. Slightly smaller than standard so £50, www.logitech.com KOBO E-rEAdEr allows you to carry a whole library in a unit lighter than a paperback and there’s no keyboard, so it’s small enough to pop into a handbag. Books are downloaded via Wi-Fi, a process that takes just a few seconds. There are more than a million free books available, and you can buy the latest from WH Smith’s online store. £100, www.whsmith. co.uk digiTAL SiLENcE dS321-d hEAdphONES Active noise-cancelling headphones electronically eliminate background noise in trains or planes. This pair works well and are not too expensive. £70, Carphone Warehouse cANON prOjEcTOr LV-7290 A digital slide projector that uses the current XGA format for crisp images even when enlarged considerably. Automatic correction for the ‘keystone’ effect caused when the projector is tilted upwards. £400, www.amazon.co.uk

the FitBot was launched in 2010 in a male version only, because the male torso is easier to model than the female. now a female FitBot is arriving at retailer hawes & Curtis, where the male FitBot has already been implemented. Robots can conform to over 85 per cent of female online shoppers

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raj Dhokia of solicitors Freedman Green Dhokia looks at the issues that may be affecting your business. Questions will be answered in the first possible issue of Bridal Buyer and shown online at www.bridalbuyer.com
What are the laWs that govern a sale in a shop? at the end of the season i would like to sell old and damaged samples off cheaply and to advertise that on my website and perhaps in the local paper. Do i need to specify anything in particular?

A question of law

When selling goods in a shop, the law states that they must have the following requirements or else the purchaser may be entitled to a remedy: They must be of satisfactory quality. This means that the goods should be free of any faults, including minor ones. They should be of the quality that a reasonable person would expect given the description, price and any other relevant circumstances. They must be safe when used properly. They must be fit for the purpose. This means that you must be able to use them for the purposes that you would normally expect from this type of product, or any purpose that you have told the seller you want to use them for. They must match their description. This means that if there is a verbal or written description of the goods, it must be accurate. And if you choose goods after seeing a sample, your goods must match the sample. However, in some transactions, you can agree on a particular condition of sale which you have negotiated with the purchaser on an individual basis so long as it is not deemed to be unfair under the Unfair Contract Terms Act. This might be, for example, a discounted price for goods that are cosmetically damaged. But, when agreeing this with a seller or advertising this, you must clearly state any faults on any specific items you advertise. I would suggest that you contact the Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) to discuss requirements regarding advertising the general notion that you will be selling old or damaged goods for a discounted price for any specific requirements. there is talk locally that the land behind the parade of shops where my bridal boutique is (and has been for more than ten years) could be developed privately to create a small housing estate or a motel – either of which would be disastrous for my business and the area itself. What action can i take and what protection do i have? I suggest that you contact your Local Authority to confirm whether any planning applications have been submitted to develop the area. Many Local Authorities have recent planning applications on their website or available upon request. If a planning application has been submitted then you may have grounds to object to permission being granted.

Speak to other shop owners within your parade to see whether they would support your objection to any planning application that may have been submitted. Generally, the more objections that the Local Authority receive, the less likely they will be to grant permission and if they do, they are likely to restrict development in some way. You will need to monitor any application on a regular basis – check with the Local Authority weekly. The planning application will then be considered by a local authority planning committee and your views and those of the community will be taken into consideration. There are four types of decisions that can be made: Permission is refused – the developer may either appeal or change their proposal and submit a new application Application is not decided within 8-16 weeks – the developer can submit an appeal Permission is granted but with conditions – the developer can either appeal or start work and opponents can appeal on limited grounds Permission is granted – again the developer can start work and the opponents can appeal but only on limited grounds. You may wish to seek independent legal advice to help you formulate your objections. i have a horrible feeling my one of my part-timers has been helping herself to small items from stock – a brooch, a garter, a pair of tights etc. i have no proof and would feel dreadful if i challenged her and was wrong. any ideas? It would be unwise to confront her or other members of staff about this unless you have evidence to prove her involvement. You need to carry out an investigation to find the necessary evidence required in order to take action. You may wish to increase your security measures, for example by installing security cameras in your stock room. The types of investigatory measures that you could employ range from being extra vigilant in regards to your staff’s movements to carrying out a detailed stock check everyday and perhaps moving staff around at work or even completing spot searches (which must be consented to). Throughout this process, you must ensure that you remain fair and impartial towards all members of staff, as failure to so do may result in unfair claims being brought against you. To minimise the risk of legal claims, you should follow your company’s disciplinary procedure. If you do manage to obtain evidence of an employee’s theft, you would be able to confront them by calling a meeting and presenting the evidence to them. Potentially if the case is sufficiently serious, you may be justified in dismissing the guilty employee for gross misconduct. However, be aware that employees have the right to appeal against any evidence that you present. Seek independent legal advice from a solicitor before making any serious decisions regarding dismissal.

To consult privately with Raj Dhokia call Freedman Green Dhokia on +44 (0) 20 7625 6003 or email [email protected]
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british bridal exhibition

11-13 March 2012

AutuMn/Winter 2012
Pre-register at www.bbeh.co.uk exhibiting enquiries [email protected]

harrogate

the uK’s largest bridal trade show with over 600 collections over two shows, daily catwalk shows and informative business seminars.*

*Business seminars at March only

Hot dates
January
WEDDING IDEAS AWARDS 13 January The Brewery, Chiswell Street, London www.weddingideasawards.com for tickets TOP DRAWER 15-17 January Earls Court www.topdrawer.co.uk

Diary at the ready – these are some of the key 2012 events you will want to check out. For the where, when and how, visit the individual websites

August
mODA 12-14 August Birmingham NEC www.moda-uk.co.uk PURE LONDON 19-21 August www.purelondon.com

September
INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON 2-5 September Earls Court 2 www.jewellerylondon.com
BBEH is the biggest show in the business

February
PURE LONDON 12-14 February www.purelondon.com PREmIER VISION 14-16 February Parc d’Expositions Paris Nord Villepinte www.premierevision.com LONDON FASHION WEEK 17-22 February London www.londonfashionweek.co.uk mODA 19-21 February Birmingham NEC www.moda-uk.co.uk NATIONAL WEDDING SHOW 24-26 February London Olympia www.nationalweddingshow.co.uk

April
COUTURE WEDDING SHOW 14-16 April New York City www.coutureshow.com NEW YORK BRIDAL WEEK 14-16 April Pier 94, New York www.newyorkbridal.com

June
PARIS BRIDAL FAIR 2-4 June Paris, Porte de Versailles www.parisbridalfair.com mODATEX 16-19 June Essen, Germany www.modatexfair.eu SI SPOSAITALIA COLLEZIONI 22-25 June Milan

BBEH 9-11 September Harrogate www.bbeh.co.uk RBA ANNUAL DINNER AND AWARDS 10 September Harrogate, Majestic Hotel www.bestweddingshops.co.uk TOP DRAWER 16-18 September Earls Court www.topdrawer.co.uk NATIONAL WEDDING SHOW 28-30 September London Earls Court www.nationalweddingshow.co.uk

May
NOVIA ESPANA 11-13 May Barcelona www.moda-barcelona.com WHITE GALLERY LONDON 20-22 May London Battersea Park www.whitegallery.com

March
TEXTILE FORUm 7-8 March London www.textileforum.co.uk BBEH 11-13 March Harrogate www.bbeh.co.uk BRIDAL BUYER AWARDS 2012 12 March Harrogate Exhibition Centre For tickets: 01423 770120 NATIONAL WEDDING SHOW 16-18 March Birmingham NEC www.nationalweddingshow.co.uk

October
NATIONAL BRIDAL mARKET 29 September-2 October Chicago www.nationalbridalmarket.com NATIONAL WEDDING SHOW 5-7 October Birmingham NEC www.nationalweddingshow.co.uk COUTURE BRIDAL SHOW 13-15 October New York City www.coutureshow.com NEW YORK BRIDAL WEEK 13-15 October Pier 94, New York www.newyorkbridal.com
77

Buyers cross the world to visit White Gallery London

Ian Stuart

Venus

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78 WWW.BRIDALBUYER.COM

TO ADVERTISE IN BRIDAL BUYER’S DIRECTORY
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Contact Chris Day on: T: 020 7275 0117 E: [email protected] 9-15 Helmsley Place, London Fields London E8 3SB
WWW.BRIDALBUYER.COM 79

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TO ADVERTISE IN BRIDAL BUYER’S DIRECTORY
PACKAGING

CALL NARDENE ON 020 7772 8317

For all your bridal wear needs from dress covers to hangers to shoulder covers to carrier bags. Hoesh offer a fast and reliable service. Stock service available on all colours and sizes. In-house printing facility also available on all items.
T: 0116 2765221 | F: 0116 2765110 | E: [email protected] | www.hoeshinternational.co.uk | www.garmentcovers.co.uk Hoesh House, Unit 4, Trevanth Road, Leicester LE4 9LS

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80 WWW.BRIDALBUYER.COM

A new business year

H

New year resolutions? Not for Abi Neill who is wisely spending time looking at last year’s good and bad experiences as a retailer and putting plans in place to ensure that 2012 tops all records
everyone to do something similar. and so what was difficult for you and your business last year? Did you overspend on samples? was ‘staff’ the absolute bane of your business? Did you lose your promotional mojo? Did awkward relationships with suppliers get the better of you? was cashflow just too tight for comfort? Did you relentlessly lose brides to Bridal Bloggs up the road or, worse still, not see enough coming through your doors? well if you’ve answered yes to any one of the above then you’re not alone and can take comfort in knowing that every business has its hills to climb from time to time! when things go wrong; whether it’s a customer complaint, a business process, or a staff matter it’s important to learn what you can from it and take the positives. It is a new year so put new and measurable controls in place in order to prevent similar difficulties from arising. with the right attitude and a little steadfast focused determination, such problems can be overcome. we’re constantly looking for new ways to impress our customers and this coming year we’ve reviewed business processes to ensure an even smoother client experience, we’re introducing new products, launching new promotions and basically delivering more of the unbeatable customer service that we’ve become known for. During each year our sales against targets are closely monitored and I’m proud to report that, once again, we smashed 2011’s annual target. Going forward our 2012 goals, including monetary budgets for our buying and marketing, are now fixed firmly. we’ve taken time out to reflect on staff and our team dynamic, we’ve considered our product offering and reacted to what customers say that they want, we’ve analysed business sales performance and identified areas of training that we need to deliver and soon we’ll begin work in detail on our exciting 2012 in-store events that we are planning. Shelves have been dusted, our rails and mirrors are shining and samples have been cleaned; in short, the metaphoric till is well and truly ready for customer kerching! yes, the retail market-place is gaining speed at a pace that some will find hard to maintain. retail in general is rapidly becoming a consumerfocused and concept-led industry where customers’ shopping habits are analysed, their senses tantalised and their spend ultimately maximised! Don’t get left behind. with the right attitude and focus in 2012 it could prove to be a brilliant year for you too! So, in reality, giving up certain foods and drink isn’t really that important to me because when I put my mind to something, I mean really put my mind to something and focus on it positively – I succeed. and as you can see there’s nothing particularly half hearted about our intentions for our forthcoming business year. Oh yes – it’s going to be another great year! Ok so I may well have to become a Spanx pants-wearing, miraclecream-loving bridal-shop owner but let’s get one thing clear, Mr Twenty Twelve – our business will continue to flourish, brides will continue to buy and we intend to enjoy our rewarding work in an amazing industry with each and every fabulous customer along the way! Here’s to a fantastic year everyone.
Abi Neill owns the award-winning Abigail’s Collection & The Groom’s Room in Colchester. You can follow her tweets@AbigailsColl or contact her on +44 (0)1206 574575

appy New year! I’ve decided this year – no personal New year’s resolutions. I’m midthirties (ahem, plus a bit) and have decided life’s too short! Besides, my resolutions are always the same; less chocolate, less wine and more exercise. anyway, if I’m honest I’m usually a tad halfhearted about New year’s resolutions. except the year before last when I went to a food allergy testing clinic with my unwilling husband. It was a mistake. we had probe type things attached to our toes (hellish for me, am so ticklish) and were both told we really shouldn’t drink alcohol, eat anything containing wheat or gluten and especially to avoid any cow derived products! Begrudgingly we parted company with £100 (ouch) and left feeling totally miserable about a future without enjoyable food! after a fractious conversation about what an earth we were allowed to eat for dinner (erm… cardboard?) we rebelliously went to our favourite restaurant, promptly ate a fourcourse meal including everything we shouldn’t have, and polished off a bottle of pinot Noir. Mmm, that little New year’s project didn’t quite go to plan! wine is not something I intend to give up and besides sometimes our lovely customers buy us bottles to say thank you after their big day. a favourite bride of 2011, a very lovely lady called Karen, dropped us in a bottle after her wedding. She was a dream customer who effortlessly bought in every one of our departments, spent in excess of £6k with us and quite literally sang our shop’s praises. Karen was quite simply wedding- and our shopobsessed and while on honeymoon she posted pictures on facebook of our branded boutique bag sunbathing on the beach in a deckchair! yes, her sanity is questionable but she became the unofficial founder of our fan club and is now in charge of global marketing! I’m well aware that 2011 has been a difficult trading year for many. and actually the year for us has not been without its minor hiccups. every business has its challenges, especially in the current climate where overheads are climbing and the market is being squeezed from all angles. at the end of each year we do a formal and thorough business health check and literally ask ourselves: “what business challenges have we faced and what needs to improve in the forthcoming year?” It’s wise for

. You

have to laugh

we’ve enjoyed lots of fabulous brides and grooms in 2011 and only experienced a handful of strange or difficult customers. Here are a couple of favourites:
the bride who sent an e-mail requesting compensation for the late arrival of her wedding dress. It arrived 12 weeks ahead of her wedding date (yes, that’s three months) and only one week after we promised! She was politely and professionally told ‘no’ to her compensation worries, if you don’t ask you don’t get”. Very cheeky indeed! the groom who, on the day of his wedding, rang his best man from an aeroplane (about to take off) to inform him that he had changed his New Zealand and, as he wasn’t attending the wedding, could he obtain a refund from us.

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