Edible East End

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ediblemanhattan.com
ediblebrooklyn.com
edibleeastend.com
edible
manhat tan
Telling the Story of How Gotham Eats No.10 March/April 2010
RUSS & DAUGHTERS’ KEYS TO LOX
MARCUS SAMUELSSON’S MELTING POT MUSE
OCTOGENARIAN ORACLE JOAN GUSSOW
Member of Edible Communities
THE BAKING ISSUE t FRANNY’S t BEER HERE
WHERE’S THE BEEF? t FRY OIL = FUEL
Member of Edible Communities
Celebrating the Borough’s Food Culture, Season by Season No. 16 Winter 2010
SENSIBLE SUSHI t LOCAVORE LOAF t SPIRITED SPUDS
WINE COUNTRY ELDER t PINTAURO’S PEARS
Member of Edible Communities
No. 18 Winter 2009
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Celebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork
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Celebrating the Harvest of the Hamptons and North Fork No. 33 Winter 2012
FOOD PANTRY FARMS t MICROGREENS t WINTER CLAMMING
MARY’S MARVELOUS t MALI B SWEETS t PINOT BLANC t BEER PROJECT
THURSDAYS 9:30 PM EST
ON COOKING CHANNEL
The
CHEESE
For more information on Jason please visit:
jasonthebigcheese.com
THE BIG CHEESE
2 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
CONTENTS
6 NOTABLE EDIBLES
Red-Stained Hands Club
Green Thumb for Hire
Food Politics
Love Lane Market
Culling the Herd
Farm-to-Food Pantry
18 FARMGIRL ANGST
THE BLIGHT CHRONICLES, PART I
21 BEHIND THE BOTTLE
LIEB 2010 PINOT BLANC
An homage to Alsace for winter stews, oyster pan roasts and East End chowders.
23 A WINEMAKER’S WONDERINGS
THE 2011 VINTAGE
Three vineyard tenders describe one of the strangest seasons in memory.
24 ARTISANS
NOT YOUR ORDINARY SWEETS
A North Fork cake baker, a South Fork weaver, and their confectionary creations.
26 EDIBLE ENTREPRENEUR
LITTLE GREENS, BIG FLAVOR
Elfin carrot tops, micro mustard and radish sprouts emerge from an
Amagansett greenhouse.
28 BOOKS
FREEDOM TO COOK
A diabetic chef relies on flavor and texture, not carbs and calories.
31 PAIRINGS
COCOAVINO
A chocolate sommelier goes head-to-head with Long Island wine.
35 SOCIAL SUDS
STRONG RYELAND
The region’s first collaborative beer delivers a taste from both forks.
36 ON GOOD LAND
PLANT A ROW FOR THE HUNGRY
At EECO Farm, a plot is dedicated to supplying South Fork food pantries.
40 BACK OF THE HOUSE
MARY’S MARVELOUS
This cozy Main Street spot is crammed full of all-day, from-scratch
nourishment.
46 IN THE KITCHEN WITH
APRIL GORNIK AND ERIC FISCHL
Two painters thrive on eggs, homemade bread and ambitious dinner parties.
52 CULT OF TASTE
FATHER AND MOTHER NATURE
Joe and Alexandra Macari and their bottles brimming with biodiversity.
57 HAPPENINGS
A COUPLE WEDS IN WATER MILL
International fare for a pioneering state ceremony.
70 HEIRLOOMS
CHEESE LADDERS, FIRKINS, BABY CAGES
AND OTHER COOKING CURIOSITIES
Why should historical societies look in their pantries?
75 VISUAL VICTUALS
COLDSEASON CLAMMING
There are hearty harvesters behind your winter chowder.
88 AFTERTASTE
THE APPLE PUSHERS
COVER AND THIS PAGE
Mali B Sweets, Greenport.
By Randee Daddona
For the past four years, brewmaster Garrett
Oliver has been working on a massive project.
It’s the ultimate beer collaboration, but it’s not a
beer. Published this September by Oxford
University Press, it’s The Oxford Companion to
Beer, the most comprehensive book on beer
ever published, featuring 160 experts covering
more than 1,100 subjects. It’s a momentous
thing, so Garrett (Editor-in-Chief), Horst
Dornbusch (Associate Editor, writer, scholar,
man-about-town) and Thomas Kraus-Weyermann
(writer and master maltster) hatched a plan.
Together, they brewed our next Brewmaster’s
Reserve beer, called The Companion. Thomas
created special new ﬂoor malts for The Compan-
ion, which is brewed in an old style called
“wheat wine”, a wheat-based equivalent to barley
wine. The ﬂoor malts give this beer a juicy malt
character of considerable depth, 55% malted
wheat gives it a surprising lightness on the palate,
while our house ale yeast lends a gentle fruiti-
ness. The Oxford Companion to Beer will impart
knowledge, while The Companion imparts
conviviality. Maybe you really can have it all?
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4 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
GRIST FOR THE MILL
EDITOR
Brian Halweil
PUBLISHER
Stephen Munshin
DEPUTY EDITOR
Eileen M. Duﬀy
DESIGNER
Bambi Edlund
PHOTO EDITOR
Lindsay Morris
COPY EDITOR
Carrington Morris
CONTRIBUTORS
Randee Daddona
Marilee Foster
Chris Gangemi
Gwendolen Groocock
Courtney MacGinley
Geraldine Pluenneke
Kelly Smith
James Christopher Tracy
Amy Zavatto
CONTACT US
PO Box 779
Sag Harbor, NY 11963
631.537.4637, [email protected]
ADVERTISING
North Fork: Mary Morgan,
[email protected], 631.323.2320
Jack Oxee, [email protected], 631.298.7025
South Fork: [email protected],
631.537.4637
LETTERS
To write to the editor, use the address
above or, for the quickest response, e-mail
us: [email protected].
Edible East End is published ﬁve times a year.
Subscription rate is $35 annually. Call the
number above to inquire about advertising
rates, deadlines or subscription information,
or e-mail us at [email protected]. No
part of this publication may be used without
written permission by the publisher.
© 2011–2012. Every eﬀort is made to avoid
errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however,
an error comes to your attention, please accept
our sincere apologies and notify us. Tank you.
Brian Halweil
Editor
A few months ago, Eileen Roaman, a Springs resident who raises bees and chickens and
keeps a home garden, had a seasonal epiphany. Te number of families visiting local food
pantries swells in winter, just as many nearby farmers have lost their main roadside custom-
ers. So, working with the Amagansett Food Institute, Roaman quickly raised $15,000 in
small and large donations, bought crops from a group of local farmers and delivered it to local
pantries. “It’s tightening the circle,” Roaman said of the harmonious transaction. Pantry visitors
got a wider selection of fresh produce; farmers got new customers.
In fact, there were similar motivations behind the Food Pantry Farm, a three-acre section
and two hoop houses at EECO Farm in East Hampton, whose entire harvest is committed to
local food pantries. Started three years ago, the farm makes weekly deliveries to ﬁve local pan-
tries—upward of 16 tons a year that includes farm-stand standards like tomatoes and corn, as
well as the hot peppers, collard greens and other ingredients pantry patrons are cooking with.
Tapping into unused resources—and unsuspecting generosity—was also the goal of
Southold town oﬃcials who added a refrigerated cooler to make it easier for hunters to drop
oﬀ excess meat, and for people in need to pick it up.
If the New Year is a good time for remembering to give back to our community, it’s also
the right season to dote on our loved ones.
Consider the new crop of cupcake bakers, cake sculptors and sweets makers in our midst.
Former Nassau County mayor, and new cocoa convert, Roxanne Browning has been staging
sold-out chocolate and wine tastings
on the North Fork. Meanwhile, Mi-
che Bacher’s Greenport sweets shop has
been reinvented as Mali B Sweets, with
the addition of fellow baker Nanao An-
ton. Te two won “Best Cake in the
Nation” honors from Brides magazine,
are rolling out a chocolate bar with lo-
cal potato chips, and oﬀer patrons their
latest experimental cake ﬁlling in the form of ever-changing little bonbons called “Twinks.”
Mary’s Marvelous at the end of Main Street in Amagansett is a standby for locals seek-
ing such ingenious forms of nourishment as eggs Colombian, bone-warming soups, and a
boutique of edible gifts, from granola to Mary Os. (Tis time of year, Mary’s is also the last,
reliable food option for eastbound lighthouse roadtrippers.)
In the spirit of this Holiday issue, we’ve decorated the page borders with our local gift
picks—from cheesemonger baskets to a Montauk-born dog food, to starter kits for the aspir-
ing oyster grower in your life.
So whether you donate to a food pantry, invest in a CSA or just buy a cake from down the
street, there are plenty of sweet opportunities to enjoy and support all that’s around.
Tere is plenty of produce
available just a few miles from
the pantries that serve our
hungry and poor neighbors.
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6 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
NOTABLE EDIBLES
BY EILEEN M. DUFFY
REDSTAINED HANDS CLUB
It’s chilly, but no one seems to mind. Tere’s lentil soup in the
Crock-Pot (for the vegetarians), as well as some delicious pulled pork
and a shared fascination about how one turns grapes into wine.
On a Saturday morning in November, members of the Bella
Vita Vine to Wine program were happy to be standing wrapped
in scarves and down vests in a cement-ﬂoored barn watching An-
thony Sannino (shown at right and below) punch down the cap on
a fermenting container of cabernet sauvignon.
Te small room lined with tanks built to hold the juice that would
make one barrel—or 23 cases—of wine smells like, well, a winery,
because it is one, but that’s a simpliﬁcation. It smells like conversion,
which is, in a sense, rotting and renewal, sweetness and energy and
funk (and fruit-ﬂy bait). Winemaking is elemental and attractive.
Te Sanninos, Lisa and Anthony, bought their vineyard from
Harold Watts of Ternhaven Cellars—one of the North Fork’s ﬁrst
wave of vineyard owners—in 2006, 5.25 acres of cabernet and merlot
planted in 1989. Te idea was to sell the grapes and build a bed-and-
breakfast in the middle of the vines. Both goals were accomplished.
But the desire to make wine, instilled in Anthony from his family
roots in Ischia, an island oﬀ the coast of Naples, kept tugging at them.
How to start up their own winemaking business while ac-
knowledging the signiﬁcant investment in equipment? Vine to
Wine was born.
In 2007 the couple promoted the idea that anyone could make
wine, proposing that members contribute $4,500 up front for a
year of the winemaking experience and the guarantee of going
home with the equivalent of one barrel of wine.
Enough people signed on, shown nothing but an empty room,
and paid in advance, allowing the couple to buy all the equipment
they needed. Kind of like a wine CSA.
Today, the Sanninos average about 20 members per vintage,
with membership including couples and up to eight individuals.
Te members start with harvest, on Columbus Day weekend,
when there is usually something ripe—whether it be white or red
grapes—depending on the growing season. Te weekend is like a
party. Te children come, and pumpkins are all around. Once the
grapes are picked, the members come back periodically to watch,
and help, as the grapes make their progress to the bottle. Tere’s
crushing and racking and stabilizing and blending and bottling.
Te members are involved in the decision making, and all go
home with the same wine: a little bit of white, a little bit of rosé
and a little bit of red, which comes out to about $16 per bottle.
Te experience and the wine are enough to keep people com-
ing back. John Arini of Setauket has joined his wife, Terry, for her
second year. She was a home winemaker, and now he’s an accom-
plice, asking questions about fermentation time and winemaker
intent. After tasting the mid-fermentation cabernet, Terry says it
was like when you’re baking a cake and eat the dough before you
bake it. What’s more elemental than that?
sanninovineyard.com P
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edibleeastend.com 9
|NOTABLE EDIBLES
GREEN THUMB FOR HIRE
Not many fathers refer to their children as free-range chickens, but for Renato
Stanford of Southold, the description is apt. Tat’s because his yard is where
the bulk of his family’s food comes from.
Tis former eﬃ ciency expert with a career at Dupont behind him expe-
rienced a life-changing event 10 years ago when he was in a car accident that
took his wife’s life. Since then he has been dedicated to growing his own food,
going to the supermarket as little as possible and taking advantage of what he
says comes naturally to him: making things grow.
To do so, he built a hoop house in his yard to be able to provide his fam-
ily with fresh produce year round. He relies on local honey for sweetener and
spends days canning and preserving when his outdoor garden gives up its
bounty at the end of the summer growing season. Tis fall, he says, he put
away 200 jars of tomatoes and 75 jars of dill pickles. Tis was after he and
his family ate all the cucumbers they could handle. “I was borderline sick of
them,” he says, “but now I miss them.”
His hoop house is essentially a dugout; one enters by going three steps
down so the beds are waist high. Tis helps to preserve the heat, which is all
captured solar energy. He uses no chemical fertilizer and no pesticides. He’s
thinking about adding chickens and he says his son’s favorite food is arugula.
When this kind of thing works out for someone, it’s hard not to be an evangelist.
Tis summer Stanford set up a booth at the Westhampton Beach Farmers
Market oﬀering to build personalized hoop houses, so everyone could have
fresh greens year round.
Te display caught the eye of Bill and Susan Groner of Bedford, New York.
“Tere was a brilliant idea right in our face,” says Bill. “We just couldn’t resist.” Te
couple had never even had a garden before, but was taken by the idea and, of course,
Stanford’s contagious enthusiasm. (Once Stanford starts talking, it’s hard not to
imagine your own little year-round garden just outside the back door.) “He’s amaz-
ing,” says Bill. “You have to cherish people with positive energy like Renato.”
Stanford credits his Italian upbringing with instilling in him the desire to grow,
to grow anything, anywhere. He remembers his Great Uncle Sebastian putting him
in his garden as a child and letting him dig and plant. Tis led to ﬁnding a space,
any space, to plant tomatoes. Te hunt for space continues. So far, Stanford had
helped Southold Schools plant their community garden and is working on a project
with the Concourse House in the Bronx, a shelter for homeless families.
He sees limitless possibilities to help anyone take advantage of the land,
sun and water readily at our disposal. “I know how to do this,” he says. “I don’t
even know how I know.”
HOLIDAY PARTY FIXINS. Coﬀee & Cake. Late afternoon pick-me-ups—or morning get-me-goings—
Butta’ Cakes in Greenport and Hamptons Coﬀee Company make for good gift certiﬁcate ideas. Butta’,
buttacakes.com, will put together holiday platters, and HCC, hamptoncoﬀee.com, will supply an urn for a crowd.
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10 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
LUBRICATE YOUR FURNITURE SHOPPING. Vine and Antiques Sherwood House Vineyards’
tasting house at 1291 Main Road in Jamesport shares space with Material Objects, an antique shop
run by a collector/builder. Taste some wine, move into the store and ﬁnd a country antique.
|NOTABLE EDIBLES
FOOD POLITICS
Despite widespread budget tightening across the nation, decision-
makers in New York are banking that there’s money in matters re-
lated to food. Both the Suﬀolk County Legislature and oﬃ cials up
in Albany are joining Long Island farmers and local nonproﬁts to
make major infrastructure investments to extend the local growing
season and expand the sales of all things grown on Long Island.
State Senator Ken LaValle supported a $3.5 million grant, and
the town of Riverhead donated 50 acres, to build the 8,300-square-
foot Agriculture Consumer Science Center at the Enterprise Park in
Calverton (known as EPCAL). Te space, which could be ﬁnished
as early as next summer, will have the equipment to help farmers—
as well as aspiring food artisans—develop and process products
made from local ingredients with the help of researchers and scien-
tists from Stony Brook University, Brookhaven National Laboratory
and the NYS Small Business Development Center. (Finally, a place
to deal with the surfeit of tomatoes in September and October.)
On the heels of this groundbreaking, a coalition that includes
both Nassau and Suﬀolk counties, Cornell Cooperative Exten-
sion of Suﬀolk County, Long Island Farm Bureau, Peconic Land
Trust, Sustainable Long Island, Long Island Wine Council, North
Shore Land Alliance and Stony Brook Incubator for Agriculture
and Consumer Science has developed a proposal they’ve sent to
Empire State Development asking for an initial $5 million for
their Comprehensive Program for Sustainable Agriculture on
Long Island. Te brainchild of farmer Paulette Satur, the proposal
includes 1,000 acres of land at EPCAL to rent for small-scale agri-
culture, a mobile slaughterhouse for the region’s growing number
of farmers keeping poultry and livestock, a mobile farmers market
to reach underserved communities, a 100,000-square-foot refrig-
erated food-distribution hub, and training programs for aspiring
farmers—part of a program they’re calling “Farms for the Future.”
All told, the goal is to turn “Grown on Long Island” into a
brand people will reach for like cheese from Roquefort or toma-
toes from San Marzano.
In a related eﬀort, Suﬀolk County Legislator Vivian Viloria-Fisher
has started a Food Policy Council for the county, for which public hear-
ings started this fall. Te goals of the council include ensuring school
and county institutions give preference to buying local, increasing ac-
cess to healthy food, reducing pesticide use, and boosting use of locally
grown ingredients at existing food-processing facilities in the county.
Like similar food policy councils that have sprouted in cities and states
around the country, the body will bring together farmers, food compa-
nies and the public to guide long-term food-related planning.
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edibleeastend.com 13
|NOTABLE EDIBLES
LOVE LANE MARKET
At Michael and Patti Avella’s new European-style market in Mat-
tituck, the yellow-pine ﬂoor is recycled from a farm in Connecti-
cut, the tin ceiling is stamped from original dyes and the window
frames are reclaimed from a 1920’s industrial building. Mike and
Patti dreamed of a food emporium for years, and so when Michael
Bourguigon, owner of the Mattituck Village Market, decided to sell
his business last year, it didn’t take them long to make a decision.
Tey closed on the circa-1928 property in November 2010, renovat-
ed with the help of architect Chris Smith (who designed Nobu and
Dylan Prime in New York), and oﬃ cially opened this past October.
CIA-trained chef and butcher John Nordin, who has worked for
both Tom Colicchio and Todd English, further bolsters the team.
Mike’s goal is to create a welcoming place for “adventurous home
cooks.” To that end, local and seasonal items sit alongside high-qual-
ity imported artisanal products—olive oil, vinegar, soy sauce, ghee,
dried porcini mushrooms, salt-packed capers and anchovies, and
salami, lardo and pancetta from Salumeria Biellese in Manhattan.
Tere are pizzas cooking in a wood-burning oven; sushi pre-
pared every morning by a Japanese chef, homemade sausages,
soups and sandwiches. Next spring, they are planning to add a
donut machine and a Japanese noodle station.
Te demand has been greater than the supply of grassfed beef
from nearby McCall’s Ranch and Vineyard’s herd of Charolais
cattle. Mike (shown above) says he is “unable to keep up with it,”
and will be adding beef from a grassfed Hereford herd in Rhode
Island to supplement. Another strong seller is the Crescent Farms
duck. In the style of a European open-air market—Mike lived in
Italy for many years—the ducks are steamed for half an hour be-
fore being turned on a rotisserie over baskets of herb-and-garlic-
tossed potatoes that soak up the luscious drippings. D’Artagnan
free-range chickens are on the grill, too.
On a lovely fall Saturday afternoon, my husband and I
stopped in for duck, potatoes and roasted garlic. We added some
fresh greens from a local farm stand for a quick salad, opened a
bottle of ros« from Croteaux vineyards and had one of the best
dinners of early autumn.
(Note: Call ahead for beef to avoid disappointment. Not only
is supply limited, reservations determine the way beef is cut.)
—Susan Yager
lovelanemarket.com
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BOOK AND A BEER. Suds Stocking Stuﬀer. Garrett Oliver, brewmaster of the Brooklyn Brewery, edited
the formidable, informative and entertaining Oxford Companion to Beer, available in a boxed set with a
limited-edition, old-style wheat beer that’s perfect for sipping while reading. brooklynbrewery.com
14 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
|NOTABLE EDIBLES
CULLING THE HERD
Whether you think of them as Bambi or as car-wrecking, shrub-eating nuisances, the fact is
there are too many deer on the East End of Long Island. And from October 1 through January
31, the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation declares hunting season.
(Te rules for Suﬀolk County allow bowhunting for the entire season; shotguns are allowed in
January but only with a special permit and on weekdays.)
Ethical hunters, as DEC oﬃ cer, hunter and Greenport resident Tom Gadomski puts it,
however, do not kill deer for sport. In fact they do not use the term “kill”; they prefer “harvest”
because whatever deer they take they make sure does not go to waste.
Te town of Southold recognized this dilemma, says Jeﬀ Standish, the deputy director of
the department of public works, and last year rented a refrigerated truck and put it behind the
community center on Peconic Lane. Te idea was to have a place where hunters could drop oﬀ
harvested deer they could not use themselves. Te deer, under the auspices of the New York–
based Venison Donation Coalition, are then transported to a butcher who breaks down the
animals and donates the meat to soup kitchens. Te coalition has been active since 1999 and has
processed nearly 340 tons of venison since that time.
In the case of Southold, last year the town collected 162 deer. Over the winter, Standish says
the town bought a used refrigerated box, overhauled it, and now have a permanent drop-oﬀ site.
Most of the harvested deer go to Fish and Wildlife Unlimited Taxidermy in Oakdale for butcher-
ing, but residents, who can ﬁll out a form, take some of it. Standish says one woman, who has a dog
with food allergies that can only eat venison, paid to have one butchered to use for dog food.
Te drop-oﬀ also accepts roadkill, and Gadomski has donated deer illegally taken by hunt-
ers without the DEC-approved tags that indicate a valid hunting license.
Normally, says Gadomski, he would harvest maybe three deer per year, one for himself and
others for friends, which he butchers himself. But now that he knows the meat will go to good
use, he will harvest up to seven per year.
Some of the take are big does or bucks, but Gadomski says he is seeing an increasing number
of smaller deer. “Tey’re not eating as well.”
Recipe from the New York
Conservation Oﬃ cer’s Cookbook
LORI’S PAPRIKA VENISON
1 c. sliced onion
1 clove minced garlic
¾ c. ketchup
1 T. Worcestershire
1 T. brown sugar
Salt
2 t. paprika
½ t. dry mustard
¾ c. water
¾ c. white wine
2 lbs. venison (scraps work well)
Sauté venison, onions and garlic until
venison is brown. In bowl, stir until
smooth: ketchup, Worcestershire,
sugar, salt, paprika, mustard, water
and wine. Add to venison. Cover and
simmer until meat is cooked. Add
ﬂour to thicken if desired.
Serve over egg noodles.
From Colonel D. W. Brewer, Central
Office, Albany. (Officer Gadomski
marked this as “very good” in his copy.)
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edibleeastend.com 17
|NOTABLE EDIBLES
INHALE, EXHALE.
Start Relaxing.
Class cards at Yoga Shanti in Sag Harbor help
you balance, while balancing your budget. For
$180 per month, yogis and yoginis can take an
unlimited number of classes with a six-month
commitment. yogashanti.com
FARMTOFOOD PANTRY
Tree food pantries on the South Fork, East Hampton,
Springs and Amagansett regularly feed hundreds of
families, and during the winter that number can soar
close to 1,000.
Tere are also farmers whose venues to sell their
wares diminish in the winter as the crowds that fre-
quent farm stands have left for the season.
To Springs resident Eileen Roaman a link was obvi-
ous: organize a way to have farmers sell their produce
to the pantries through donations expressly for that
purpose. “Tat way, the money would stay in the com-
munity,” she says, “the families would have fresh nutri-
tious food and the farmers would have customers. It’s
tightening the circle.” Roaman made an initial pledge
and then sent out an e-mail asking for donations; soon
the total was $15,000.
Enter Amanda Merrow and Katie Baldwin of Am-
ber Waves Farm in Amagansett, a nonproﬁt that has as
part of its mission to help feed the community. Under
their 501(c)3 status, that money was now 100 percent
tax-deductible and 100 percent going directly toward
the purchase of food.
All of the food is grown by farms in East Hamp-
ton and Southampton, including Amber Waves, Bal-
sam Farms, Quail Hill Farm, the Milk Pail and Sunset
Beach Farm. In the ﬁrst two weeks, the Farm to Food
Pantry Program was able to deliver 1,550 pounds of
produce. Families pick up boxes of food once per week
and now, in addition to staples, they will ﬁnd apples,
butternut squash, eggplant, peppers, potatoes and
winter greens.
In the past, says Gabrielle Scarpaci, executive direc-
tor of the East Hampton food pantry, which relies on do-
nations, farms have donated produce to feed the 44,000
mouths that came through her door last year. Now the
farmers are being compensated for their work and the
plan is to keep growing. According to Roaman, a $25
donation will provide a family with fruits and vegetables
for two weeks; $100 will cover two months and $300
will underwrite a family’s share for the six-month fall
and winter season. Baldwin and Merrow have set a fund-
raising goal of $75,000.
Donations can be made to the Farm to Food Pantry Program,
c/o Amber Waves Farm, PO Box 2623, Amagansett, NY 11930.
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edibleeastend.com 19
Grumble, grumble, shuﬄ e, spit. Unlike most perusing this maga-
zine, I am sick of food. I am sick of worrying about it, sick of think-
ing about it, reading about it, going to lengthy dinners made length-
ier by everyone talking about it. Tis is post-mortem time for me,
when the season is put to bed, mostly. Tere is not so much picking
and ﬁeldwork; instead it is wrap-up and put away and think.
In 2009, the Northeast sustained an outbreak of late blight.
Tis was the ﬁrst time in my career that I had to farm through such
challenging conditions. In June, the disease was conﬁrmed to have
wiped out a commercial planting on the North Fork and large gar-
dens were gone in Bridgehampton. It was raining again and there
was nothing else for us to do but try to allay or conﬁrm our fears.
Dean and I decided to drive around Sagg and look at other
farmer’s ﬁelds. As we neared a ﬁeld that was rumored to be sus-
picious, I began to shake. My heart pounded in my ears so hard
that I was partially deafened to outside noise. I began to sputter, my
voice getting shrill with panic, as I fretted aloud. My brother looked
at me, “Now you’ve got to chill out!” he barked. And then sternly,
“Christ, it’s only tomatoes.” Ten, less sternly, “Or potatoes.”
In 2011 the Northeast was hit by blight again. Tere are some
garden pests, viral, bacterial and even animal that a farmer can en-
dure. I believe a little illness can be good for the overall immune sys-
tem. Phytophthora means plant destroyer. In a place like Sagaponack,
with our heavy fogs and morning dews, with our persistent, often
damp breeze, a little blight is all you need to start a devastating war
of man versus fungi. I like to believe I do all I can do—homegrown
plants, monitored for vigor all spring, are staked and trellised. I spray.
But in the end my success in surviving an outbreak will depend on
my neighbors’ success. My neighbors are not only farmers. Empty
houses with automatic sprinklers in their kitchen gardens and no one
monitoring real need, such vectors line almost every ﬁeld.
Tis year, toward the middle of June, on the eighth day with “no-
spray” conditions, a neighboring farmer stopped by to tell me he had
blight in his tomatoes. It was a pretty big spot. I told him how sorry
I was to hear this, wished him luck and then, after he’d left, I suc-
cumbed to a set of anxiety-sparked dry heaves. It was late in the day,
so I considered not running to the shop and sharing the bad news
with my brother. Why not let him have one more, decent night’s sleep?
But misery needed company. I raise two acres of tomatoes—
Dean’s got one hundred and ﬁfty of potatoes. He’d want to know. All
the employees have gone home, I ﬁnd him in the machine room—
the barn where custom parts are made to save the day—he’s calmly
working on something. For the next half hour we talked about man-
agement strategy. We talked about eﬀective fungicides and we talked
about windows of opportunity; would there ever be one? What if it
just keeps raining? We have no machines for ﬁxing weather. What
am I going to do? Outside, the drenching sky is turning to night.
Dean reaches down under the cluttered desk that doubles as a work-
bench. He lifts and opens an elegant blue box that holds a gift from
last Christmas. Snuggled down on a sapphire pillow is a special edi-
tion of some very ﬁne scotch. “We could get in the bottle?”
Tis scene between us, drinking high-end stuﬀ out of Styro-
foam cups, might seem sordid or sinful for more than one reason.
I know we should have had glasses. But worse, I know of many
farms that were lost to alcohol. After a few hard seasons, I more
fully understand the smooth liquor’s persuasive draw. We check to
see our cups aren’t melting, and then toast our fortunate lot. 2011
went on to be the wettest year on record.
I am often asked what I do in the winter—after I’ve ﬁnished with
cauliﬂower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and other fall crops that have
their own set of diseases caused by too much rain. Winter is short,
really just December. I spend the month writing personal agricultural
parodies of Broadway and popular tunes. My sister and I then turn
the material into a one-performance, no-rehearsal puppet show. Te
song I’ve been singing, in my head from May to November, is usually
sung by an optimistic orphan. In my production it will be an emo-
tional farmer consulting Cornell Cooperative Extension.
Editor’s note: Tis is the ﬁrst part in an emotional series about blight.
Tune in for the next installment when we will learn where the local blight
came from, how the Fosters’ tomatoes and potatoes fared and what they
are doing to prevent blight next tomato and potato season.
Marilee Foster farms and writes in Sagaponack.
FARMGIRL ANGST
THE BLIGHT CHRONICLES, PART I
BY MARILEE FOSTER
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DELICIOUS COLLABORATION. Buy Vegetables Now. Community Supported Agriculture
programs can sell out. Contact the following farms, so you can pay upfront and receive fresh produce—
or eggs or ﬂowers—all summer long. Garden of Eve, Golden Earthworm, Sang Lee, Green Tumb,
Biophilia, Quail Hill, Sylvestor Manor, and Sunset Beach Farm all have varying stages of commitment.
You’ll learn to love kale even more than you thought you already did. List at edibleeastend.com.
Balsam Farms
Farmstand, CSA
Located In Amagansett,
At The Corner Of
Windmill Ln. and Town Ln.
Open Daily, June-November
Fine Produce, Cut Flowers, and More
Balsamfarms.com
East Hampton
80 N Main St
East Hampton, NY 11937
631-324-4428
Chelsea Market
425 West 15th St
New York, NY 10011
212-463-9500
Co· beaot|¦o| ¿|¦t bo×es a··|ve ¦||eo .|t|
|aoo-se|ecteo a·t|saoa| c|eeses, oa|·eo .|t|
,a¬s, |ooe¸s aoo c·ac'e·s.
Please visit our website, www.lucyswhey.com
to o·oe·, o· ca|| 631-324-4428.
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Mobile Espresso Unit Water Mill Westhampton Beach
www.hamptoncoffeecompany.com
Visit our Holiday Cafés! Fantastic gifts.
Free local hand delivery.
Hand-roasted. Estate-grown.
Local Coffee Tastes Better.
TWO WAYS BACK
TO YOUR HAPPY PLACE.
Relax in excess, drink in moderation.
edibleeastend.com 21
BEHIND THE BOTTLE
LIEB 2010 PINOT BLANC
An homage to Alsace for winter stews, oyster pan roasts and East End chowders.
BY EILEEN M. DUFFY
Tere’s a certain plasticity to grape varieties: Tey become diﬀerent things in diﬀerent parts of the
world. Cabernet in California is an ocean and a continent away from cabernet on the left bank of the
Garonne River in Bordeaux. Te sauvignon blanc from Marlborough in New Zealand might as well
come halfway around the world from the sauvignon blanc grown and produced just south of that cab-
ernet in Bordeaux. (Wait, it is a half a world away.)
In a newish region like Long Island, the trick is to honor what the grapes can do here while paying
homage to what has been successful in other parts of the world, to get around that anxiety of inﬂuence,
except in this case one can drink the poetry.
Gary Madden of Lieb Family Cellars feels little anxiety about the winery’s new release: the 2010 Pinot
Blanc in the style of Alsace, where the grape is one of the region’s four noble varieties.
Lieb is the only producer on the East End that bottles a single varietal pinot blanc; it’s become their
signature, and so far they’ve done it in an all-dry style—during fermentation all the sugar in the grape
must is turned into CO
2
and alcohol—and as a sparkling wine.
In the Alsace region of France, low rainfall and south-facing slopes result in reliably ripe grapes.
Reliable and ripe are not two words we can use together on Long Island, but in 2010 everyone could. It
was a beautiful growing season and Madden saw the opportunity to make a pinot blanc like one ﬁnds
in Alsace, higher in alcohol and a bit sweet: not all the sugar is converted into alcohol, a little is left to
give the wine a bigger mouthfeel. Tus the wine goes better with cool weather dishes (not much red is
grown in the region).
Lieb makes their wine at Premium Wine Group in Mattituck, where Mark Lieb is a partner with Rus-
sell Hearn, who serves as the consulting winemaker for all their wines. Madden is the general manager.
Lieb and his wife, Kathy, bought their vineyards in 1992, and up until 1999 sold their grapes to other
wineries. In 2000 the ﬁrst wines were released under their own label. Te 2010 10th Anniversary Pinot
Blanc commemorates that. Te wine is sold in a ﬂuted bottle, like the ones found in Alsace, with the
added modernity of a screw cap.
A pale straw color, the wine is bright and clear; it smells like super-ripe pear with candied pineapple
and white pepper. Te wine is spicy and lively in the mouth with tropical fruits and the pleasant heavi-
ness one gets from residual sugar. Te wine, however, has enough acid that it doesn’t directly come
across as sweet. It’s balanced.
Madden fell in love with the style on a trip through Alsace years ago. A longtime fan and owner
of Terverun shepherds, named after a town in Belgium, he couldn’t complete his trip, which started in
Paris, without visiting Alsace. “I was a red wine drinker before that,” he says. “It made me reevaluate.
It changed my palate.”
Unfortunately, due to the short, wet growing season of 2011, Madden doesn’t see a pinot blanc in
this style coming out next year. But there are 2010s still at the tasting room in Mattituck. Get them for
the winter stews, oyster pan roasts and chowders that are best eaten in front of a ﬁre.
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TUROPHILES REJOICE. Local Cheeseboard. Specialty cheeses, local and artisanal, are great for party
favors. Cavaniola’s Gourmet in Sag Harbor, cavaniola.com; Lucy’s Whey in East Hampton, lucyswhey.
com; and Village Cheese Shop in Mattituck, 631.298.8556, all put together platters and gift boxes.
The W|nes of |ong ls|and.
v|s|t.
Enjoy.
D|scover A Wonderfu| P|ace to
|ong ls|and W|ne Oounc||, PO Box 600, R|verhead, NY 11901
631-722-2220 |nfo@||w|nes.com www.||w|nes.com
edibleeastend.com 23
Tis was a strange and hard vintage; everything about it from begin-
ning to end required an extraordinary amount of eﬀort. More time,
more labor, more money was expended growing the grapes and mak-
ing the wines this year than anyone can remember. In the end more
people than not are very happy with what they have in the cellar, and
I for one look forward to sharing many delicious, expressive wines that
oﬀer immense gratiﬁcation to the consumer for their inherent quality
and to the professionals who know ﬁrsthand how much work it took to
get there. But that is what we always say, right? Every vintage has some-
thing outstanding to oﬀer, and the winemakers are always pronouncing
how great the wines will be when they are still in barrel maturing or
even earlier when the are still fermenting in tank! So instead of talking
with the folks in the cellar, who always seem to have a cheery outlook
and who have a way to go before their work is done, I solicited some
thoughts from some growers whose work has culminated with harvest.
I want to share two points of view. Te ﬁrst is more measured
and academic. Tis is to be expected coming from the astute and
invaluable Alice Wise, who runs the viticulture research program
at Cornell’s Long Island Horticultural Research and Extension
Center (LIHREC). Alice had this to say:
Te 2011 season was warmer and wetter than the long-term averages.
Tis aﬀorded growers the luxury of a slightly earlier than normal
harvest. Te frequent rains and tropical storm after véraison [the on-
set of ripening] forced vineyard managers to be vigilant with cano-
py- and fruit-management practices. Many growers elected to hand
harvest, which facilitated more careful sorting of fruit prior to crush.
Across the board with all varieties, brix and acids were moderate and
balanced, allowing clear expression of varietal ﬂavors. It was gratify-
ing to taste delicious fruit after such a labor-intensive season.
Te other, blunter, dirty-boots-on-the-ground version comes
from the uber-talented and awesome grape grower Sam Mc-
Cullough. Sam is the vineyard manager for Lenz Winery and also
grows some of the best and most sought-after grapes at his home
farm in Aquebogue. Tis is what Sam shared:
Te 2011 vintage has been the most diﬃcult I can remember short
of 1985 when Gloria pretty much wiped out the crop. 2011 was a
year marked by lack of sunshine and continual intense fungal pres-
sure from start to ﬁnish. I’ve never experienced such diﬃculty with
downy mildew. It just wouldn’t go away. Excessive moisture in August,
September and October got a lot of botrytis and sour rot going. All
grapes required careful (aka really tedious, slow and expensive) hand
harvest. By the time we ﬁnished chardonnay I was beginning to think
that I knew what the dinosaurs felt like when they got stuck in tar
pits. When we started with pinot noir for sparkling and it was messy
at 19 brix, I knew right there that this was going to be a ﬁght to the
end. When we ﬁnished with cabernet on 11/11, my suspicion was con-
ﬁrmed. Fortunately the wines are good. After this year I need a drink!
Both of these, taken together, paint a realistic picture of the
vintage. Sometimes the most telling observations come from
outside eyes, and in the midst of harvest Mark L. Chien the viti-
culture educator at Penn State Cooperative Extension visited the
region and wrote a wonderful 17-page summary of his visit for his
blog. It is a beﬁtting summary to end with his thoughts…
We visited in the midst of a diﬃcult vintage, yet the level of optimism and
the quality of juice and wine samples we tasted bespoke of a mature indus-
try that understands how to deal with adversity…. Some of the winemak-
ers have almost 30 vintages under their belt and say this is the strangest
vintage in memory, not the worst, just odd. I concur. Despite the weird-
ness, there was little sense of urgency or aggravation on the crush pad or
in the vineyard, only a singular determination to do the best they possible
can with the fruit that is available. Not that it matters one bit, but a Cali-
fornia winemaker would be thoroughly confused by a vintage like this.
A low brix, low pH, low acid wine? What’s up with that? I say this only
because I believe that these are among the most agile, creative, talented,
patient, persevering and unﬂappable winemakers in the world.
James Christopher Tracy is the winemaker and partner at Channing
Daughters Winery in Bridgehampton, as well as a student candidate
for the Institute of Masters of Wine.
A WINEMAKER’S WONDERINGS
THE 2011 VINTAGE
Tree vineyard tenders describe one of the strangest seasons in memory.
BY JAMES CHRISTOPHER TRACY
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24 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
GREENPORT—Tey pass as quite benignly ordinary chocolate
cupcakes—until the ﬁrst bite. Ten impressions of merlot and
blackberries dance with rich chocolate across the palate. Last May
1, 60 food lovers on a Greenport Slow Food Crawl crowded into
the edible art shop of Miche Bacher and Nanao Anton to sample
these cakes and other desserts and to view the shop’s display of
stunningly decorated wedding cakes.
“If they open a store in the South Fork, that’s it. I’m lost,” says
Linda, a Slow Food member, who shook her head and grinned. As an
avid Internet shopper, Linda assuredly is now lost. Bacher and An-
ton have just launched a new Web site carrying many of the sweets
in their Greenport Shop. Tey have changed their name from Sa-
cred Sweets to Mali B Sweets, and it’s worth spending ﬁve minutes
checking out the cake gallery as an art form on Malibsweets.com.
If you dare venture into the online shop, you’ll encounter several
dozen temptations ranging from herb-ﬂavored cookies, spiced nuts
and homemade marshmallows to chocolate bars and cakes made
with fair-trade Kallari chocolate, produced by a coalition of 850
indigenous Kichwa families in the Napo region of the Ecuadorian
Amazon. Soon to be oﬀered: a bar with Amagansett’s Art of Eating
potato chips made from Balsam Farms organic potatoes.
It’s been quite a journey, ﬁrst from a spare-change exercise and
the start of the business in 2002 to the one that supports local
growers and wineries and products like Kallari, with a wedding
cake featured in the September issue of Brides magazine as one of
the 24 most beautiful in the nation.
Bacher, trained as an acupuncturist and doula, is a self-taught
baker. “I was the stay-at-home mom who always brought desserts to
the party. A friend asked me to make her something. Te next thing
I knew, people were calling.” In 2006, with the business pushing up
against what she wanted to handle herself, Bacher joined forces with
Anton, a fellow mother at the Hayground School in Bridgehamp-
ton. “I dragged Nanao into it because I wanted someone who was
my equal,” says Bacher. “Nanao, a weaver, has an art background
and an incredibly open palate as well as an open eye.”
Today, the collaboration involves dreaming up and sketching de-
signs for cakes, then working side-by-side painstakingly executing the
idea, molding designs in sugar dough and creating the unique ﬂavors
ARTISANS
NOT YOUR
ORDINARY SWEETS
A North Fork cake baker, a South Fork
weaver, and their confectionary creations.
BY GERALDINE PLUENNEKE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY RANDEE DADDONA
edibleeastend.com 25
which are the underlying point. “It’s incredibly long hours, for incredi-
bly low pay. I work seven days a week, and the average day is 14 hours,”
says Bacher of the peak wedding season. (Recently they’ve created
many new designs for same-sex weddings.) Watch Bacher and Anton
in the kitchen, and they’re motivated as much by the challenge as the
art. Every cake and cupcake is made only to-order after conﬁrmation
by telephone or in person, because they feel freshness is imperative to
maintain their standards. Cakes run $7.50 to $60 per head.
“Isn’t it traumatic to think of someone cutting into your beau-
tiful wedding cakes?” a visitor asks. “I don’t see it that way,” replies
Bacher, “I consider ours a transient art. Tere are artists who do
sand sculptures on the beach that are meant to be washed out.”
Bacher continues, “We put days” (“Days,” echoes Anton) “into
something that’s going to be decimated in moments.” Teir record
creating a cake: 50 to 60 hours over three days.
“Te best things we make come out of our synergistic rela-
tionship. Te ﬂavors that we produce work,” Bacher says. “We do
a merlot, a chardonnay, a sparkling wine, a black duck porter in
cakes, in cupcakes, in cake pops”—their fudgy confection that the
Food Network Magazine featured a while back.
Even those who aren’t buying a whole cake can still preview
their cake-making skills and the ﬁllings of the moment by buying
a few Twinks, their take on commercial Twinkies, in the shop or
online, which feature whatever ﬂavors they are currently playing
with. “We’ve had carrot cake with cream cheese, passion-fruit ﬁll-
ing, Mexican chocolate,” says Anton. In the realm of cookies, there
are variations with lavender, bourbon, fennel and sesame seeds, and
buckwheat with cocoa nibs, as well as green-tea brownies.
Tey’re perfecting a line of savory biscuits that particularly appeal
to both women—one with cranberries, herbs and a little cayenne, an-
other with almond and rosemary, apricot and sage—“savory crackers
and things for your cheese plate that are elegant and upscale,” says
Bacher. Ten there are the chocolate bars available in seven standard
ﬂavors, from the most popular dark chocolate with toﬀee and sea salt
to milk chocolate and bacon, plus three extra ﬂavors monthly. Te
Web site oﬀers a tasting sampler for sweet-tooths among us who like
to plan ahead: a year of three special monthly ﬂavors for $300.
“Our sweets are never terribly sweet…,” begins Anton. “…be-
cause we use only organic sugar,” ﬁnishes Bacher. Although the bak-
ers aren’t sure why, the unreﬁned, certiﬁed-organic sugar they use
seems less sweet than conventional sugar and allows their myriad
other ﬂavors to shine. “Neither Anton or I love sweet things,” reﬂects
Bacher. “Tat may be where we diﬀer from other bakers,” she says.
You sense that their enthusiasm for the business extends to
their families, with both husbands and teenagers contributing
their time. Mali B Sweets is named for Bacher’s mixed-breed year-
old black dog, Mali, pronounced Molly, and Anton’s mixed-breed
six-year-old, Brownie, because, says Bacher, “Our dogs sustain us
with unconditional love and support.”
“I am extremely grateful,” muses Anton. “Art is a lonely way of
working, and it’s rare to ﬁnd a partner. We get along beautifully,
feed oﬀ each other, are able to make beautiful things that taste
spectacular every day. And we laugh.”
Geraldine Pluenneke writes from Montauk where she is completing
a book about ﬂavor.
Mali B Sweets is located at 130 Front Street, Greenport, 631.477.6762.
Tis past summer season its confections were carried at Sag Harbor’s
Java Nation and Sylvester & Co., in Southampton at Schmidt’s, in
East Hampton at Hampton Country Market, and currently at the
Village Cheese Shop in Mattituck.
Beautiful things: At Mali B Sweets, Nanao Anton (above) and
Miche Bacher, turn out marshmallows, a chocolate bar with lo-
cal potato chips, and a form of Twinkies that feature their latest,
experimental cake ﬁllings.
WOMAN’S BEST FRIEND. Don’t Forget the Pets. dogOdog, a Montauk-based company with recipes
created by local shar-pei owner Betsy Petroski Smith, has gift sets of their all-organic treats and play-tug-
chew toy made from 100 percent cotton. Visit dogodogorganics.com.
26 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
AMAGANSETTDelicate and lovely and doomed from birth to
an early death, microgreens—bright-ﬂavored shoots of herbs and
leaves—are the neurasthenics of the salad world. Until recently no
one grew them in any quantity on the South Fork (although Satur
Farms in Cutchogue oﬀers them, as does Koppert Cress, which
counts the New York Yankees among its high-proﬁle clientele). From
time to time you might spot them at a certain fancy food shop, but
those microgreens always look travel-spent, all but fainting away.
And then last June, small packets of fresh microgreens started
cropping up at Provisions in Sag Harbor. Trough the summer and
into the fall they continued to materialize, but from where?
On the label, a minute telephone number oﬀered the magnify-
ing glass–equipped investigator a lead to a 7-by-14-foot Amagansett
greenhouse named, in grand fashion, Good Water Farms. Flourish-
ing in that close space were at least 20 varieties of miniature plants
sown from organic seed, including elﬁn carrot tops (which taste like
the Platonic essence of, well, a tiny carrot), sorrel, amaranth, garnet
mustard and China rose radish. “Try the cumin,” said Brendan Da-
vison, the grower, who lives on the property. “You’ll freak, I promise.”
And he should know, because Davison (shown opposite page) hap-
pens to be a practitioner of shamanic energy medicine. During his ap-
prenticeship, he spent time in Cuzco, Peru, where, it appears, shaman-
farmers are not unusual. Reﬂecting on the close connection between
the two callings, he realized his was to devote himself to microgreens.
Te idea turned out to be a good one. When he went round to res-
taurants like Nobu, South Edison, Sen, and Nick and Toni’s with his
ﬁrst harvest, the chefs all wanted to know when he could bring more
(12 to 18 days from seed to plate, depending on the variety). Tis past
summer, customers included Ruschmeyer’s, Navy Beach and Crow’s
Nest in Montauk, as well as the 1770 House in East Hampton and
Estia’s Little Kitchen in Sag Harbor. Having outgrown his backyard
quarters due to demand, Davison plans to move the year-round busi-
ness to an 1,800-square-foot warehouse in East Hampton and extend
his reach to restaurants in Brooklyn and Manhattan.
“What makes Good Water Farms special,” said chef Joe Isidori
of South Fork Kitchen, “is that Brendan delivers the plants by the
ﬂat so we can snip them right before we serve them. Te stuﬀ I
could get from other sources isn’t local and it’s already bagged.”
What’s more, most of the big growers rely on soil-free grow-
ing mediums, while Davison uses an organic potting mix enriched
with worm castings, bat guano and ﬁsh meal. And then there’s that
metaphysical ingredient he’s slightly embarrassed to talk about.
“Te shamans call it ‘opening sacred space,’” he explained,
“and it involves invoking the four directions. It sounds funny, I
know, but I do it every time I plant seeds. It brings all the elements
into right relationship.”
Laurel Berger is an arts writer in Sag Harbor.
Good Water Farms sprouts and microgreens are sold at Provisions
Natural Foods in Sag Harbor, Naturally Good Foods in Montauk,
and the Sag Harbor Winter Farmers Market. goodwaterfarms.com
EDIBLE ENTREPRENEUR
LITTLE GREENS, BIG FLAVOR
Elﬁn carrot tops, micro mustard and radish sprouts emerge from an Amagansett greenhouse.
BY LAUREL BERGER t PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDSAY MORRIS
Fine Estate Wines
McCall Wines
In the charmingly rustic tasting room,
I got to sample some of the wines and I was
so impressed that I bought a mixed case,
which I enjoyed immensely.”
– MARTHA STEWART
“
“If his regular and reserve pinots
made from the splendid 2007 vintage
are indicators, he’s sitting pretty.
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THE NEW YORK TIMES
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edibleeastend.com 29
At the age of 12, Sam Talbot was diagnosed as a type 1 diabetic.
His mother burst into tears the day she heard the doctor’s diag-
nosis, then drove her son straight to Friendly’s where she ordered
him a half-dozen diﬀerent ice cream sundaes, with the words,
“Tis is the last time you can do this.” Talbot would learn all
the prohibitions and at one time or another “broke every rule”
even into his college days. Perhaps it was preordained that, lov-
ing to eat, Talbot became a chef and expanded his palate travel-
ing worldwide.
In his new cookbook, Te Sweet Life: Diabetes Without Bound-
aries, the executive chef of the Surf Lodge in Montauk and Mon-
drian Hotel’s Imperial No. Nine in SoHo has compiled pleasure-
delivering recipes not only for diabetics, but for all eaters.
His ﬂavors are deep and complex, his dishes colorful and com-
forty. Te 75 recipes in this late-October Rodale release rely on
ﬂavor and textures rather than carbs, calories and fat. Most veg-
gies are cooked al dente (“cook ½-inch pieces for 1 to 2 minutes
than transfer to a bowl of ice water”) as a base for Talbot’s unique
and eclectic ﬂavors. Some work as either side dishes or entrées.
Others, shorn of their seafood, chicken or meat, can stand alone as
vegetarian or vegan fare.
For diabetics, Sweet Life is both a primer on how to indulge
in rich, satisfying and low carb ﬂavor, and tips from a pro on how
to manage the unexpected challenges of plummeting or soaring
blood sugars. Te book carries a new message about the freedom
and enjoyment of food choices possible for a diabetic. “Tere’s
no ‘NO’ in diabetes for me. Tere’s no, ‘you can’t.’ [A diabetic]
can eat anything as long as it’s in moderation, and you’re moni-
toring your blood sugar, and it’s a balance,” says Talbot. No chef
knows better than he.
On a recent rainy afternoon at Imperial No. Nine, the restau-
rant he helped open in SoHo’s Mondrian Hotel, the 33-year-old
chef reﬂected, “I’ve got this forum, this God-given forum, to be able
to speak up, to be written about in magazines about something I
believe in, not something meaningless and silly.” Indeed, on Sep-
tember 21, Talbot, a partner with the Juvenile Diabetes Research
Foundation, raised $50,700 for JDRF with his inaugural fund-rais-
er, “the Sweet Life Kitchen,” on the rooftop of the Mondrian.
Oddly, at ﬁrst glance Talbot’s recipes appear quite improb-
able for everyday cooking, okay, totally improbable. Dauntingly,
most call for layering in a myriad of spices, herbs and ingredients,
a few for expensive, hard-to-ﬁnd additions like mustard oil and
yuzu juice, the imported Japanese citrus juice appearing on trendy
menus. (Mustard oil and other unusual ingredients are all avail-
able on the Internet, in some health food stores or Asian markets.)
But ingredients assembled, most are simple and fast. I ﬁrst fell
for Talbot’s ﬂavor instincts making his fairly mainstream squid
with sesame seeds and jalapeño peppers. I then tried his spicy cu-
cumber salad with charred red onion, cabbage and a cast of 10
supporting ingredients for a vegetarian potluck.
“Oh, my God. Tis is incredible,” said the muscular, blond
surfer sitting across from me. “Te heat of the spices against the cool
of the cucumber. I’ve got to have the recipe. I’m a gourmet cook.”
“Mmmmm, Mmmm, Mmmm,” murmured the woman next
to him as she forked into the cucumbers.
“You’re clearly joking,” a guest and former California chef
said last weekend as I set the ﬁrst course down, “crab with blue-
berries and popcorn!” Tis fresh and crunchy crab ceviche with
yuzu juice is the top-selling dish at Surf Lodge, and the four of us
at my table rated it and all the other dishes “delicious winners.”
BOOKS
FREEDOM TO COOK
A diabetic chef relies on ﬂavor and texture, not carbs and calories.
BY GERALDINE PLUENNEKE
30 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
Te mustard oil in the tuna ceviche delivered a hot wasabi-like
bite. Te broccoli with citrus and roasted garlic oil was vibrant
and sweet. Te shirataki noodles (a soy-yam combo with minimal
carbs), cashews and chiles was textured, mellow and fulﬁlling. For
dessert we munched Talbot’s 17-ingredient coconut granola. Te
granola erased my qualms about expense, and I’ve ordered a sup-
ply of açai powder, cacao nibs, goji berries and pistachios. “His
style will have an eﬀect on other chefs,” one guest predicted later.
So what inﬂuences inform Talbot’s recipes? “Tese recipes
aren’t based on anybody but myself, from my everyday life.
Tings I like to sustain on and nourish.” Some he ﬁrst developed
cooking by the roadside on a cross-country car trip with his Lab-
rador. Te Sweet Life details the advance preparations and snacks
Talbot has found vital traveling as a diabetic, and how he has
coped with the “alarming, tricky situations” that can confront
any diabetic round-the-clock. Other recipes are variations on fa-
vorites from his restaurant menus.
When he isn’t cooking or surﬁng, Talbot (shown above at his
Montauk home) paints—in mixed media. “Te canvas is the same
thing as a plate. My head’s in the same place whether I’m cooking
or painting.... I’m all about texture, texture in foods, texture in
painting. I love layers (of both paint and ﬂavor).” New research
on health beneﬁts of food—of eating more herbs, of eating more
greens and spices intrigue him. “Cinnamon’s great for a diabetic. I
eat it all day long by the spoonful.”
Turns out nothing is improbable about Sam Talbot’s cookbook.
I ﬁrst fell for Talbot’s ﬂavor instincts making
his fairly mainstream squid with sesame
seeds and jalapeño peppers. I then tried
his spicy cucumber salad with charred red
onion, cabbage and a cast of 10 supporting
ingredients for a vegetarian potluck.
WINTER WARMER. Townline BBQ Sauce. Te housemade sauce, ideal for
cold-season grilling, comes in regular and hot in 16-ounce bottles for $7.50. Buy it
at the restaurant on Town Line Road in Sagaponack.
Grown on Long Island
Let’s face it! Certain things are hard
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former: morhet:, u|:|t
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Ke i t h
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edibleeastend.com 33
Roxanne Browning had a captive audience at Laurel Lake
Vineyards. Tey were seated in the tank room in front of wine-
glasses with the promise of a pairing not usually on the menu:
wine and chocolate.
Browning, formerly a Madison Avenue ad executive and the
mayor of Northport, has been passionate about chocolate ever
since a trip to the Ecuadorian Amazon in the early 2000s where
she visited villages that made their livings making “bean to bar”
chocolate, the kind of chocolate that now is encroaching upon the
shelves that used to be populated with candy made by global com-
panies like Nestlé, Hershey and Cadbury.
But watch that word “candy.” True chocolate, says this “choco-
late sommelier,” is not candy. If you look at the label of a commer-
cially available chocolate bar, the ﬁrst ingredient is some kind of
sugar, whether it be high-fructose corn syrup or your run-of-the-
mill cane sugar. A true chocolate bar, she says, will always have as
its ﬁrst ingredient cocoa.
And the beneﬁt of seeking out such chocolates, she says, in
addition to the fact that they taste better, provide health beneﬁts
(more about that later) and are a quality product, which most con-
sumers demand these days, is that chocolate from such small vil-
lages helps sustain the native peoples who have, for the most part,
formed cooperatives, know how to select the best beans and are
farming and producing with the environment in mind.
PAIRINGS
COCOAVINO
A chocolate sommelier goes head-to-head with Long Island wine.
BY EILEEN M. DUFFY t PHOTOGRAPHS BY RANDEE DADDONA
34 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
For the ﬁrst round, Laurel Lake’s winemaker Juan Sepulveda
poured his 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, which Browning paired with a
chocolate bar with dried banana and cayenne pepper by Antidote,
a company in Ecuador. Te spice of the pepper and the sweetness
of the banana complemented the herbaceousness of the wine. Next
was Laurel Lake’s 2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon with a 75 per-
cent cocoa bar by Askinose, from the Soconusco region of Mexico.
Te darkness of the wine with its chalky tannins and the darkness
of the chocolate with its chalky tannins worked well together.
My favorite was the combination of the slightly sweet 2010
Laurel Lake Gewürztraminer with chocolate from Kallari in Ec-
uador made with 75 percent cocoa and more cocoa butter than in
the other bars. Te chocolate was rich, pure and creamy, and the
acidic but sweet wine made it melt in your mouth.
It’s not too hard to convince people that chocolate is good for
you, but Browning (shown at left in red sweater) made her case:
the monounsaturated fats in cocoa butter are similar to the good
fats in avocados and olive oil. Chocolate is also high in antioxi-
dants, which are said to control insulin levels and provide minerals
important to everyone’s diet. And in its purest form, chocolate has
very low levels of caﬀeine.
Te crowd was already won over.
For more information or to set up tastings, visit exoticchocolatetasting.com.
ART YOU DRINK. Bedell “Artist Series” Gift Box. All six bottles in the Artist Series
Collection (Taste Red and White, Gewürztraminer, Gallery, Musée and Sparkling) come packed
in a custom wooden box for $280. Tey are ready to drink or just stare at. bedellcellars.com
1216 main Road (Rte 25) · )amesport N\ 1194¯
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OI WINImAKING
edibleeastend.com 37
Strong Ryeland, a copper-hued collaboration created by Greenport
Harbor Brewing Company and Southampton Publick House, is more
than a well-balanced amalgam of ﬁve malt types and two hop variet-
ies, suitable for session-easy situations; the Long Island–interpreted
English Special Bitter (ESB) embodies the convergence of two local
breweries, situated on opposite forks, for the appreciation of craft beer.
“I really wanted Greenport and Southampton to do something
they felt represented them as brewers and would be proud to put
their names on,” says Jen Torriero, bar manager of Spring Lounge
in Manhattan’s NoLita.
Torriero, the impetus behind the two-day union in early Septem-
ber, chose a bold, rye-based ESB (comprising 20 percent of Strong
Ryeland’s malt proﬁle, rye is also used in Greenport Harbor Brew-
ing Company’s recent Spring Turning Saison) after a discussion with
Spencer Niebuhr, brand manager of Southampton Publick House,
about a one-oﬀ project that could serve as the apex of “I Love NY
Beer,” Spring Lounge’s monthlong switch to New York–only craft
drafts and bottles in October. (One of New York’s oldest bars, Spring
Lounge features American beer and impressively opens at 8:00 a.m.)
“I suggested we combine forces with our brethren on the East
End of Long Island and create a new beer,” says Niebuhr. “Two
text messages later to Greenport and we were oﬀ-and-running.”
Tough Strong Ryeland’s moniker is a playful jab at an un-
favorable local portrayal (“I think it goes without saying that our
breweries embody the gold chains and muscle shirts that people
often associate with Long Island,” jokes Greg Doroski, assistant
brewer of Greenport Harbor Brewing Company), its handle also
represents the awareness, and solidarity, of community—not only
within craft beer, but on Long Island, as well. Tis was most evi-
dent during Strong Ryeland’s recipe formation by Phil Markowski
and DJ Swanson, brewmasters of Southampton Publick House
and Greenport Harbor Brewing Company, respectively.
“Te planning was around the time of Hurricane Irene, so it
wasn’t always an easy process,” recalls Swanson. “But it seemed like
the perfect time to hang out and make a beer with friends.” Over two
sessions in Greenport, the ﬁve aforementioned beerists shared brew-
ing duties, industry stories, and pints, until a moderately spiced, malt-
forward ale with subtle notes of citrus and herbal tea was completed.
“Te specialty malts impart a unique character to the foun-
dation, and the use of both UK Target and Cascade hops gives
this beer more of a multi-continental take on the style,” says Mar-
kowski. “With Strong Ryeland, we hope to give the beer-drinking
community a taste of the two forks.”
Niko Krommydas lives in Selden, and runs “Super Neat Beer Ad-
venture, Yes!!,” a Long Island craft beer blog, nikokrommydas.com.
SOCIAL SUDS
STRONG RYELAND
Te region’s ﬁrst collaborative beer delivers a taste from both forks.
BY NIKO KROMMYDAS
Community beer: Te people behind Strong Ryeland include,
above from left, Spencer Niebuhr, Phil Markowski, DJ Swanson,
Jen Torriero and Greg Doroski.
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38 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
EAST HAMPTON—I met John Malafronte at the Food Pantry
Farm on a blustery, gray day at the end of April. It was overcast
and chilly with a dampness that crept into my bones. Malafronte
greeted me with such excitement and enthusiasm that I instantly
warmed up and was comfortable walking the ﬁelds with him. A
slight man with an eagerness and willingness to talk, Malafronte
(who had a career as a bond salesman in Manhattan), told me that
upon retiring on the East End he decided to take a small garden
at EECO Farm. With no prior experience as a gardener, he grew
food for himself and his wife. Eventually he met Peter Garnham,
who was farming commercially at EECO Farm. Garnham had
been gardening all of his life; his tanned face and rugged manner
speaks of the time he has spent outdoors. He is a master gardener
and makes a living as a garden writer for national magazines.
In 2009 as the economy slumped, Garnham became aware of
the need for food donations at the local East End food pantries
and decided to do something about it. He enlisted Malafronte’s
help, and the two friends started growing food to donate. Bring-
ing their contacts, experience and enthusiasm to the cause, calls
for help were made to national seed companies and local nurseries,
and the donations began to come in. Malafronte and Garnham
provided the rented land and “seed” money needed for the farm’s
other necessities, and the Food Pantry Farm was born.
Te Food Pantry Farm is exactly what it sounds like: a farm
that grows fresh organic produce for food pantries. I admit I al-
ways thought that food pantries only distributed government-is-
sued and donated meat, cheese and dried and/or canned goods. To
me, this sounded uninspired and unappetizing. If indeed that was
the case of food pantries in the past, then the face of today’s food
pantry is diﬀerent. Here on the East End, people using the re-
sources of the local food pantries can also expect fresh food, fresh
herbs and ﬂowers. Te idea being this: people who need to use a
food pantry deserve the same fresh, nutritious food that is avail-
able to people shopping at the supermarket and farmers markets.
ON GOOD LAND
PLANT A ROW FOR THE HUNGRY
At EECO Farm, a plot is dedicated to supplying South Fork food pantries.
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY ELLEN WATSON
edibleeastend.com 39
Te Food Pantry Farm sensibility is a balance of idealism and
practicality. As we discuss what is being grown at the farm (carrots,
salad and cooking greens, summer and winter squash, melons, sweet
potatoes, okra, beets, turnips, collards, kale, parsnips, radishes and
Swiss chard, to name a few), the farmers share some thoughts with
me. Tey grow and donate fresh herbs, such as cilantro, parsley, sage,
mint and thyme to the pantries. But they want to know from their cli-
entele: What other herbs and vegetables would you like? Tey also feel
that if you are driven by need to use a food pantry, you are in a rough
spot—so they grow fresh ﬂowers to include in the donations. After all,
who wouldn’t like a bouquet of ﬂowers to cheer them up? Tese are
very civil, endearing thoughts to be having when providing food for
the needy. Tese farmers discovered that there was a need for good,
fresh food, and so they are providing it, and more. Tey are telling the
food pantry clientele that they matter, that someone cares for them.
In 2009, the ﬁrst year of the farm, Garnham and Malafronte
did all the physical labor, along with friends and family volunteers.
Tey planted and weeded and harvested, adding to their land area
whenever more became available. Also part of the founding team is
Ira Bezoza, a retired attorney and businessperson (and a keen gar-
dener) who came on board to help out. He has a cheery, quick smile
and is a great sidekick to Malafronte in their mutual storytelling.
Involved in numerous citizen and community groups, Ira works as
the bookkeeper and chief fund-raiser for the Food Pantry Farm.
Two major donors, and a late-summer benefit barbecue held
in September, have raised the funds for a planned state-of-the-art
3,400-square-foot hoop house, a plastic-covered greenhouse. When this
hoop house is in place (upon approval from the Town Board), the Food
Pantry Farm will be capable of growing and delivering food year-round.
In the summer of 2010, Bruce Warr joined the board. Warr has had a
passion for farming since childhood. His grandfather was a professor of
agriculture and commissioner of agriculture for New Jersey. He visited
many farms when he was young, and a lifelong love of the natural world
was instilled in him. With a great work ethic, he helps in the day-to-day
operations of the farm several days a week. Tese men put in anywhere
from 20 to 70 hours a week working at the farm.
Te Food Pantry Farm currently works almost three acres of land
and has two hoop houses. Tey recently reclaimed an abandoned
orchard in a corner of EECO Farm. When I ﬁrst visited in April,
this patch of land was dead looking: brown grass, wiry sick-looking
trees. Te farmers weren’t even sure what the health of the trees was
or whether they would bear fruit. On a second visit at the end of June,
the grass was green and mowed. Much of the area had been covered in
black plastic ground-cover cloth to keep down the weeds; large nurs-
ery pots had been set on top and planted with cucumbers, melons and
zucchini. Vines ﬂowed over the top and onto the ground-cover fabric,
ripe with ﬂowers and baby squash. Te fruit trees looked healthy and
happy, some with fruit on them—a few apples, pears and peaches.
Te trees will be pruned and fed this winter and spring. Some new
Dedicated deliveries: Te Food Pantry Farm makes a weekly
delivery to five local pantries. Darcy Hutzenlaub, below and
opposite page, started volunteering at Food Pantry Farm, and is
now the farm’s ﬁeld manager and community service supervisor.
40 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
trees will be planted to replace the dead ones that will be removed.
So how do these four retirement-age men manage all the physi-
cal labor needed to run the farm? Besides them and the volunteers,
they have one paid employee, Darcy Hutzenlaub. She is the farm’s
ﬁeld manager and community service supervisor. Hutzenlaub met
Garnham when she began volunteering at the Food Pantry Farm.
She wanted to learn more about growing food to assist her in a job
she had at the time. Eventually, she quit her other job and came to
work for the Food Pantry Farm. She recently completed the Cornell
Cooperative Extension’s Master Gardener program and this win-
ter will attend the New York Beginning Female Farmer’s Program.
Hutzenlaub is a striking, strong, knowledgeable young woman and
rounds out this crowd of retired men just perfectly. In fact the group
feels like a family. Tere is smart conversation, lots of humor and
great compassion for each other and the cause. Te group bounces
around ideas, discusses current farm issues and laughs a lot. Tey all
share the view that the Food Pantry Farm is a model that could be
replicated in communities around the country. Unemployed people
could be given work, and those in need could be given their fair
share of fresh food. Tey are all tireless workers with big ideas that I
am convinced will come to pass.
Ellen Watson, self-proclaimed naturalist, can often be found photo-
graphing gardens, farms and ﬁelds on the sublime East End.
Amagansett Food Pantry
Saint Michael’s Lutheran Church
486 Montauk Highway
Amagansett, NY 11930
631.267.6351
Tuesday 4–6 p.m.
East Hampton Food Pantry
Windmill Village II
219-50 Accabonac Road
East Hampton, NY 11937
631.324.2300
Tuesday 2–6 p.m.
Sag Harbor Food Pantry
Old Whalers Church
44 Union Street
Sag Harbor, NY 11963
631.725.2880
Tuesday 10:30 a.m.–1 p.m.
Springs Food Pantry
Springs Presbyterian Church
5 Old Stone Highway
East Hampton, NY 11937
631.324.4791
Wednesday 4–6 p.m.
Southampton Food Pantry
Human Resources of
the Hamptons
168 Hill Street
Southampton, NY 11968
631.283.6415
Monday, Wednesday & Friday
10 a.m.–2 p.m.
At present, food donations are made by the Food
Pantry Farm from April through early December.
One delivery a week is made to the Amagansett,
East Hampton, Sag Harbor, Southampton and
Springs food pantries. In 2009, the Food Pantry
Farm donated a total of 9½ tons of food from April
through early December. In 2010, the number went
up to 16½ tons. At the time of this writing, over 15
tons of food has been delivered from April through
September 2011.
Te farmers estimate that for every $1 that is do-
nated, they deliver about $3 worth of vegetables at
wholesale prices. Donations pay for seeds, supplies,
tools and the salary of one paid employee; volunteers
and community service people do the rest of the work.
For more information or to volunteer, e-mail them at
[email protected].
Farm vision: Peter Garnham, at left with farm manager Hut-
zenlaub, founded Food Pantry Farm with other EECO Farm
colleagues. Each year, the farm delivers more than 16 tons of
produce to nearby food pantries.
Seasons change.
Quality doesn’t.
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But don’t believe this ad, come to
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* Most recent results may be found on the Lenz website.
Main Rd (Rte 25) in Peconic
631.734.6010 www.lenzwine.com
42 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
AMAGANSETT—Standing behind the counter of a grab-and-
go breakfast-lunch spot has taught Mary Schoenlein a lot about
people in the past nine years. It kind of boils down to this: People
don’t like change, except when they ask for it.
Schoenlein, the owner of Mary’s Marvelous on Main Street in
Amagansett, during the summer feeds the frantic recreationer, but
over the winter a stream of locals keeps her in business. Tere are
some she sees every day and others who will call her at home if she
takes an item oﬀ the menu.
“People got upset when I stopped making the curried chicken
salad sandwich,” she says. “We had another kind of chicken salad,
and everybody makes a curried chicken salad, but that’s what they
wanted.”
She is not complaining. In fact, the evolution of her business—
from a stripped down selection of pastries and sandwiches, to an
ever-changing chalkboard of breakfast sandwiches, soups, grains,
vegetables, and meat dishes—was prompted by her standby cus-
tomers, who came to depend on Mary’s for breakfast, lunch and
(reheated-at-home) dinner. From the very beginning, “people were
just wanting to grab food and get to their next thing. New Yorkers,
especially on vacation, want that lifestyle,” says Schoenlein. Ten as
customers started coming back and asking for more, the prepared
foods started creeping in. “Tey’d say ‘this is great, but how about
a salad?’ or ‘Do you have anything I could bring home for dinner?’”
For Schoenlein what her customers want is as important, and
maybe more so, than her desire for creativity. It shows in how many of
those who enter her store greet her by name, ask after her family and
talk about their lives, as Schoenlein listens like she has all day. Despite
the exclamation mark in her logo, Mary’s Marvelous conveys a steady
dedication to quality where the answer to the question “What’s good
here?” is answered by other customers and staﬀ alike, “Everything!”
And everything is prepared in the diminutive 1,100-square-
foot space. Egg dishes for breakfast, 12 diﬀerent types of pastry,
muﬃns, prepared sandwiches, salads, hot food like curried tofu,
sautéed kale from Balsam’s Farm and Waldorf salad. Chicken
potpies sit in the case next to macaroni and cheese. Cupcakes are
surrounded by spiced nuts and the dozen or so diﬀerent cookies
baked in the small kitchen. Tere are sablés, regular and chocolate,
peanut butter ﬁlled peanut butter cookies, fresh lime shortbread,
Mary O’s, just like Oreos but better, and what Schoenlein calls her
American line, good old chocolate chips and oatmeal raisin.
Te menu also reﬂects the diversity in the kitchen. Te house-
made salsa is prepared using a recipe provided by one of the Ec-
uadorian cooks, which uses tomate de arbol, a tree tomato native
to South America that results in a creamy pale orange sauce. Te
eggs Colombian are rolled in a tortilla and have crumbled potato
chips in a decidedly Andean ﬂourish. Outside of home kitchens,
Mary’s Marvelous oﬀers some of the South Fork’s only made-
from-scratch arepas, thick corn cakes ﬁlled with milk, butter and
white cheese, or shredded beef, guacamole and hard-boiled egg.
In the winter, with the Amagansett Farmers Market, Vicki’s
Veggies and much of Montauk shuttered, Mary’s is perhaps the
last food option for eastbound roadtrippers. So, it’s not unusual
that, on any given day in winter, a line of customers snakes away
from the cash register, toward the back of the shop and then back
toward the front, forming a horseshoe around a center table ar-
ranged with the shop’s own packaged products and selected arti-
san foods from around the country. During a recent “quiet” week,
the shop went through 120 dozen eggs, a number that quadruples
in summer. Te shop goes through 1,000 pounds of ﬂour each
week. For Tanksgiving, they sold nearly 80 pies, mostly pump-
kin, double-crusted apple, and pecan. Mary’s sells “gallons and
gallons” of chicken soup, made fresh three or four times a week.
Mary’s opened in 2002, but Schoenlein’s cooking career
began nearly two decades before when she moved to New York
City and talked her way into trendsetting Gotham restaurants,
like Jonathan Waxman’s Jams on the Upper East Side. She honed
her pastry skills during a stint at a two-star Michelin restaurant
in Versailles, France, and deepened her reverence for impeccable
ingredients alongside Alfred Portale when Gotham Bar and Grill
received its ﬁrst New York Times stars.
Schoenlein and her husband ultimately wanted out of the city.
Tey found a home in Amagansett, and Schoenlein became the
executive chef of the late Red Horse Market on Montauk High-
way, east of East Hampton. Tere she started her own line of
granola, called Mary’s Marvelous at the suggestion of a friend, a
suggestion that Schoenlein ﬁrst doubted but it stuck. (More than
a few customers have made the granola—a heavenly mix of oats,
maple syrup sent direct from a farm in Vermont, jumbo raisins,
and “just a few other ingredients”—their morning staple for the
BACK OF THE HOUSE
MARY’S MARVELOUS
Tis cozy Main Street spot is crammed full of all-day, from-scratch nourishment.
BY EILEEN M. DUFFY t PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDSAY MORRIS
44 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
edibleeastend.com 45
46 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
edibleeastend.com 47
RUBS AND FUDGE. Condiments for Xmas.
Local producers are selling stuﬀ that makes the stuﬀ they
already sell taste better. For preparing pastured poultry,
Browder’s Birds sells two dry rubs in 5-ounce jars for $10:
Grill, for a barbecue ﬂavor, and Roast, a mix of dry herbs; call
631.599.3394 or visit browdersbirds.com to order. Vine Street
Café is now selling their barbecue sauce,
cookies and hot fudge. Buy their Blue Canoe
products at the restaurant on Shelter Island,
or through their Web site, bluecanoesi.com.
last decade. “It’s baked in small batches,” says Schoenlein. “We’re
very conscious about keeping it fresh.”)
When the Red Horse Market closed, Schoenlein started look-
ing for a space for her own business. Te space, at the eastern end
of the row of shops in Amagansett, had once been the Coach
outlet but before that, in the ’70s, it had been the Store, run by
Bert Greene, who went on to become a food writer and cookbook
author. Te Store was one of the ﬁrst to sell prepared gourmet
food, preceding even the Barefoot Contessa in East Hampton. Te
landlord heard she was looking for a place and gave her a call.
It was a perfect match, a store with plenty of parking ideally
located for beachgoers seeking breakfast and lunch. Schoenlein’s
husband, Pat McKibbin, who works for South Fork builder Bul-
gin & Associates, redesigned the space and was side-by-side with
Schoenlein as they sledgehammered the concrete slab to lay a new
kitchen ﬂoor. Later, when the business quickly grew, McKibbin
helped build out storage and refrigerator space. (“He’s really been
my rock in starting this whole venture,” Schoenlein says. “Starting
my own business was a dream. Pat helped me realize it.”)
And for 10 years this coming summer, Mary’s Marvelous has
served customers seven days per week, opening at 7:00 a.m. and
closing at 4:00 p.m. (3:00 p.m. on Sundays).
She now has a full-time staﬀ of 13, and her sister, Sandra, has been
there since the beginning. Another sister, Laura, worked there but
died of cancer, something customers still talk about and remember.
Change still hovers. Tis year, in response to customer re-
quests, Schoenlein added gluten-free oﬀerings and more vegan
specialties. Items like raw kale salad, a butternut squash and spin-
ach gratin, and quinoa cakes are just a rotating roster of in-season
additions that consistently sell out. In the home-meal category, her
turkey meat loaf and chicken potpie remain big sellers.
Schoenlein continues to consider expansion as the volume of
her business bumps up against the tiny kitchen. She’s investing
in her Web site, taking notes for a cookbook, and, with her long-
haired miniature dachshund, Bijoux, at her feet, spending more
time in her oﬃ ce, which had to be moved to another building so
she could expand the kitchen. Tis year, she says, after a decade of
“working ma butt oﬀ,” was the ﬁrst she’s had weekends oﬀ.
And while she has tried to get some distance from the day to
day, the demands of 4:00 a.m. pastry-baking, after-closing stock
and soup-making, and her own ongoing urge to get her hands
coated in ﬂour, all pull her back in. She depends on “an incredible
staﬀ,” including cooks who head up pastry, savory and other ele-
ments. But Schoenlein still designs all the menus.
“It amazes me. It still amazes me,” she says. “All the time and
all the work that goes into making good food.”
Eileen M. Duﬀy, Edible East End’s deputy editor, holds a diploma in
wine and spirits from the International Wine Center and writes from
her home in Southold.
Savvy shopkeeper: When her customers started to depend on
Mary’s Marvelous for breakfast, lunch, and (reheated-at-home)
dinner, Mary Schoenlein (opposite page) added an ever-changing
chalkboard of breakfast sandwiches, soups, grains, vegetables, and
meat dishes.
edibleeastend.com 49
NORTH HAVEN—Te home of artists April Gornik and Eric
Fischl is perched above freshwater wetlands and surrounded by
gnarled wild cherry trees that stretch to the sky. Te path from the
driveway, where a Chevy Volt is fed through a bright-orange cord
near a bank of solar panels, leads past matching his-and-hers glass
studios with wraparound porches; up concrete stairways bisected
by collecting pools that ferry rainwater away from the house; and
ﬁnally, through a native-plants garden dotted with Japanese ma-
ples ablaze in autumn glory.
Te robust Lacinato kale patch outside the front door is a sign
of the couple’s deep-rooted interest in matters related to eating. In
1975, when the two painters met at the Nova Scotia College of Art
and Design, Fischl wooed Gornik with mulligatawny soup, a salade
composée and what Gornik recalls as “this insanely delicious creamy
clam chowder.” (Born in New York City and raised in suburban
Long Island, Fischl knew the chowder as part of his kitchen vernac-
ular. He thinks the mulligatawny soup came from the Alice’s Res-
taurant Cookbook; the salad was “a half-assed attempt at dieting.”)
Gornik admits she was no gourmand—“my main food was
Kraft Macaroni & Cheese and Ragú spaghetti sauce”—but a few
years later, inspired by a fancy French dinner-party circuit that
some art school friends started, she got a copy of Mastering the Art
of French Cooking, and, on an electric skillet and hot plate in the
illegal oﬃce building where she and Fischl were squatting, turned
out sole de bonne femme and a gâteau de crêpes with a frangipane
ﬁlling. Did those early edible installations from April help seal the
deal with Eric? “It certainly went a long way,” he says, wrapping an
arm around his wife’s shoulders.
Dinner parties remain a big part of the routine. Tey regularly
host holiday feasts, dishing up communal delicacies like Brazilian
ﬁsh soup to a couple dozen guests. Other edible endeavors include
Gornik pushing farmers market schedules and food pantry dona-
tions in the Save Sag Harbor e-newsletter, and Fischl re-creating his-
toric Midwestern meals as part of America: Now and Here, his ambi-
tious 18-wheeler mounted, moveable exhibit that raises questions
about democracy, patriotism and trust in a post-911 America. Both
artists have produced labels for Bedell Cellars’ Artist Series—a
Fischl nude kicked oﬀ the series on a 2001 magnum of merlot,
while a Gornik oceanscape graced the 2007 blanc de blancs.
Most days, they do breakfast and lunch separately. She eats
lightly before noon to leave room for yoga and swimming. He sips
cappuccino and munches granola. She tends the garden, stocks the
pantry and books their CSA memberships. He makes bread—“a
genius talent,” Gornik says.
Teir home, designed by Fischl and built with the collabo-
ration of architect Lee Skolnick, is adorned with a collection of
sculpture, paintings and books that you’d expect from a New York
art world power duo who both count works at the Met, Whit-
ney and MoMA. From the main living room—a soaring barnlike
space with a library that ﬂoats overhead—the home ﬂows down
into a cozy dining room and kitchen, joined by a ﬂoor-to-ceiling
concrete and stucco partition, with heart pine cupboards and
trim, that holds plates, cups and cookbooks.
And although Gornik and Fischl are two very diﬀerent eaters,
they share the conviction that what we put in our mouths can be
both model and muse. “It seems like every couple of months, I’m
wildly interested in cooking and I’ll need to make up a new reci-
pe,” says Gornik. “I don’t really associate it with either a creative or
fallow time in my studio. But I do think that cooking and making
art and gardening are all parallel activities for me.”
Te opening of America: Now and Here in Kansas City, Mis-
souri, included two food events. Te ﬁrst was a lunch that featured
jerky, hardtack and jars of lard. “One of the courses was preceded
by a history lesson in which it was told that the Missouri River
was once full of salmon, but that settlers said they would rather
eat their dogs than eat salmon,” says Fischl. “Te chef then served
salmon hot dogs!”
At the second event, organized with a local artists collective
named Bread, aspiring activists came to sup on homemade bread
and soup. Attendees threw their names into a hat, three were cho-
sen to speak about their projects, a vote was taken and the winner
was awarded the evening’s proceeds. “So, yes,” Fischl says. “Art
and food are intimately tied together.”
IN THE KITCHEN WITH
APRIL GORNIK AND ERIC FISCHL
Two painters thrive on eggs, homemade bread and ambitious dinner parties.
BY BRIAN HALWEIL s PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDSAY MORRIS
She tends the garden, stocks the pantry
and books their CSA memberships. He
makes bread—“a genius talent,” she says.
50 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
Who does the cooking?
AG: It’s me. He does bake bread, but that’s kinda it. It’s partly my
fault because I’m kind of strict about health things, like butter. I’m a
little bit of a kitchen dictator. (I’m tired of people saying “Nazi.”)
What’s your breakfast routine?
AG: I always eat two local, organic eggs, either from Bette and
Dale or David Falkowski, and some bread from Eric, and chives
from my garden.
EF: Coﬀee, two cups, cappuccino, ﬁrst thing. I read the paper
(digital Times Reader), do crossword and/or Words with Friends.
Bola Granola with fruit (April makes it with maple syrup) and 2 per-
cent milk. I’m a friend of [the designer] Nicole Miller’s, and Bola is
her sister’s product. Tat would be enough reason to support it, but
it is delicious on top of that. We get it at Cavaniola’s Cheese Shop.
Eggs
AG: My mom would make me eggs when I was sick. Soft-
boiled. Eric will tell you his theory that women like to eat eggs
more than men do. He thinks that’s weird and cannibalistic. I
think he thinks that because he doesn’t like caviar.
EF: I do ﬁnd it unsettling to watch women coo and glee over a
bowl of caviar. More so than men who also coo and glee over it. Ironic
how upset they can get at birds that rob eggs from other birds’ nests
but don’t make this connection to our nest or uterine robbery.
AG: I’m currently eating them scrambled. I’m a little OCD
with my eggs. I’ll get into a soft-boiled thing and I’ll do that for
six months or a year. Sometimes it’s only one egg. Sometimes it’s
two. But I do ﬁnd that if I eat two eggs and a piece of toast or a
half a piece of toast, then I’m just ﬁne for hours and hours and
hours and hours.
Andreja Premium espresso machine
EF: I have a fancy espresso machine and burr grinder but I
am not an expert. My coﬀee is organic beans called Hurricane
Espresso I get from IGA in Sag. Every now and then I nail a great
foam, but it is so inconsistent it plagues me. I do the same thing
every day with diﬀering results (which proves I am not mad, just
edibleeastend.com 51
inconsistent). My theory is that it is the milk’s fault. It seems when
I open a new carton [it] foams the best but then over several days it
becomes less and less certain. I will never research this theory, but
if any of your readers have thoughts let me know.
Berries
AG: I like to eat red fruits in the morning. What the French
call “red fruits”—strawberries, raspberries, blackberries. I get that
at Provisions. Tey are high in antioxidants, and I like them.
Meat
AG: I’m not a meat person. It’s to a certain extent philosophical.
,GRHDWÀVKQRWODUJHDPRXQWVPD\EHRQFHHYHU\WZRZHHNVRUVR
I curated a show called Other Is Animal at Danese Gallery.
It was not supposed to be a “don’t eat animals show,” it was just
supposed to show animals as having real presence and as being
worthy of attention. Because of their consciousness. Not because
they are cute or they look like us or even on ecological grounds.
For Tanksgiving I ordered a Heritage Foods USA cruelty-free
turkey. It’s not so much people eating animals per se, but the cruelty
involved in factory farming. It makes me insane with rage and disgust
and sorrow. To me it’s the moral elephant in the room of America.
Dreamﬁelds pasta
AG: I should do an ad for this spaghetti. Actually, I was talk-
ing with the guy who sells the ﬁsh at King Kullen, about trying
to ﬁnd local ﬁsh. But then what I wanted for dinner was pasta.
He said, “Have you tried Dreamﬁelds spaghetti?” And I said no,
because I like Barilla the best and I’m a total pasta snob. And so I
bought it, and it’s fantastic. It has a lower glycemic content than
most spaghettis, and it’s the best pasta I’ve ever bought. I recom-
mend it, but the only place I can ﬁnd it is King Kullen.
I do spaghetti and arugula pesto from my garden. And kale
pesto is really good, or just kale sautéed. My personal favorite is
probably spaghetti and artichokes with tomato and mint.
Indian spices
AG: Here’s a funny story. I’m in a taxi in New York and the
driver has a dish on his seat that he’s going to eat for dinner, and it
smelled delicious. And I went, “Tat smells so good. Tere’s am-
chur in it, isn’t there?” And he said, “Yes, how did you know?”
And I said, “I just love that spice, I could smell it from a mile
away.” And he goes, “all women love amchur, what is it?” And I
said, “if you don’t understand it, I don’t understand it.”
Ceramic egg tray
Tat’s Mae Mougin. She makes them. She’s great. It’s obvi-
ously decorative, but I use it all the time.
Tomato sauce
I have my own way of doing it. It’s not chunky, chunky. I like
it with a huge amount of garlic, olive oil, bay leaf and salt.
Broccoli rabe
Tis is broccoli rabe from Quail Hill that needs to be eaten.
Right now, I’m in the winter share of Quail Hill. But in the summer
I tried Sunset Beach Farm, which is, like, just around the corner.
Garden
I just started doing the garden two summers ago. It’s always been,
like, ﬂowers and perennials. I said to Eric, “What do you like?” And
he said, “Cucumbers.” I don’t like them really, but there’s this Tai
ﬁsh soup that involves those long European cucumbers. And there
was a seed package at Marder’s, so I grabbed it. And I planted them
just like it said, ﬁve little seeds in a mounded hole. And then, like
three weeks later, our entire yard was a sea of cucumbers.
Cupcake trays and baking pans
AG: I got into trying to make health muﬃns a few years ago. Te
baking trays are what I use to bake sweet potatoes and vegetables. I
love roasted vegetables. I do that a lot in the winter. Eric used to make
pies and cinnamon buns. And I begged him repeatedly to make them.
‘Wouldn’t it be nice to have cinnamon buns?’ But then he’d probably
put butter in them and I would be telling him to put less butter.
EF: I was a dishwasher at a pharmacy in Scottsdale, Arizona,
[I] got promoted overnight to cook because the cook quit. It was a
real soda fountain kind of place, and I was responsible for break-
fast and lunch. Te usual stuﬀ like eggs any which way, BLTs,
burgers and dogs, chicken and tuna salads. I also had to make a
52 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
couple of pies and cinnamon-raisin buns each morning. Tey were
edible but not pretty. I could never get the fruit to gel, so when I
sliced into the pie, the crust collapsed and fruit pooled. No one
complained but no one oﬀered to help me ﬁgure it out either.
Two Bengal cats
AG: We got one from a friend and another from the South-
ampton Animal Shelter [Gornik is an active supporter of the South-
ampton Animal Shelter Foundation]. We take our cats for walks on
leashes. When they see something outside it’s really cute. Tey go
boing, boing. Tey bounce, like Tigger in Winnie the Pooh.
Breadmaking supplies (including assorted ﬂours, measuring con-
tainers, scale and Tartine Bread cookbook)
AG: Tis is his olive bread from a few days ago. It’s really deli-
cious. He also makes an amazing walnut loaf. Tat’s my favorite.
EF: I’m not a baker. I just make some bread.
Cookbooks
AG: I tend more now to go to Epicurious online if I’m trying
to make something up and I just want ideas. I’ll scan a bunch of
recipes and make my own version. But I like the cookbooks.
Astier de Villatte china
AG: Tis company in France makes it. We’ve been collecting
it for years and years. It’s a black or dark-gray clay with a white
slick. It’s really a simple idea. I don’t think there’s anything like it.
Places you like to go?
AG: Nick and Toni’s. I like North Fork Table and I love the
Vine Wine & Café up there [in Greenport]. And I like Vine Street
Café. I think Cittanuova does a really great job. Te nice thing is
that most of the restaurants around here seem to be aware of using
local produce and supporting local farmers. Tat matters to me.
EF: Almond (excellent). Tutto il Giorno (though I am not treated
well there). Dockside (lunch in summer on the patio, can’t be beat).
Dining table
AG: Our dining room table was made by Eric’s former as-
sistant, a great woodworker named Tom Brokish who now lives
in Portland, Maine, but still does custom work down here for us
and others. He and Eric worked on the design together. We have
some pretty ambitious dinners here. I get nervous cooking and
planning, but once I pull it oﬀ, when everyone is enthusiastic and
happy, I’m happy. I do Christmas or Christmas Eve dinner. Every
year with friends, which is really nice. I’ve done Tanksgiving for
years and years and years. Te occasional birthday party. And big
dinner parties in the summer.
EF: For me all our dinners blend together into one continuous
love affair with friends.
Brian Halweil is the editor of Edible East End.
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M
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Excellence is never an accident.
-Bob Palmer
5120 SOUND AVENUE
RIVERHEAD 11901
NORTH FORK OF LONG ISLAND
54 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
Bring up a word like “organic” around Joe and Alexandra Macari,
and you won’t get the reaction that you think you might get from
this 16-year-old producer known by many for their organic-lean-
ing approach to farming; in fact, it kind of feels like the “O” word
around their 450 or so acres. Not because they don’t believe in
these principles of farming, or because they aren’t very, very good
stewards of the land—they do and they are. Very much so. It’s just
that as far as the Macaris are concerned, the only thing you can
reliably stick a label on is a bottle; outside of that, words are just
words. Te real stuﬀ is in the soil.
“I think it [can be] a marketing tool to get people to buy
things,” says Alexandra, when we talk about the countrywide em-
brace of organics in everything from meat to cleaning products to
wine. “We know what’s in the bottle is right; I see the biodiversity
in our vineyards.”
Since they started the winery with Joe’s parents—Joe Sr. and
Katherine—in 1995, the Macaris have embraced the principles
of biodynamics—the farming ideals developed by Austrian phi-
losopher Rudolf Steiner in the 1920s. And while Steiner’s theories
may be better known for their unconventional, seemingly loopy
methods (head-scratchers like the iconic manure-ﬁlled buried cow
horns and astrologically based planting schedules), their greater
good is ﬁrmly rooted in a practical, holistic, all-encompassing
view of the land and all that surrounds it. It’s about keeping and
maintaining a healthy environment; something the Macaris are
more than just a little passionate about.
“It’s a year-round business,” says Joe one autumn afternoon
just around harvest time on a tour we take across the vast acreage
Macari holds. Tis year, the wet, unpredictable season that was
2011 was hard on every farmer, and Joe is quick to point out some
of the problems in the vineyard—browning leaves here, rot there,
which is the big reason he says that going for organic certiﬁcation
in the Northeast is challenging. “A year like this? It’s tough,” he
says, shaking his head. “It’s blood and sweat and tears.” (And, as
it so happens, Red Hook Winery, the three-year-old urban wine-
making project owned by the cross-country force of Napa’s Abe
Schoener and Robert Foley, New York’s Mark Snyder and Max
CULT OF TASTE
FATHER AND
MOTHER NATURE
Joe and Alexandra Macari and their
bottles brimming with biodiversity.
BY AMY ZAVATTO
PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATTHEW FURMAN
Loubiere, and Michael Cinque rounding things out in Amagan-
sett, Long Island, who purchase their fruit from Macari, nodded
to Joe’s toil by christening their chardonnay “Joe’s Tears.”)
“Joe really takes it hard,” says Alexandra about plants that aren’t
happy. “We try to cheer him up, and tell him, ‘It’s going to be great!’
but he’s pretty hard on himself if the vineyard isn’t happy.”
If you wound back a couple of decades, creating planting sched-
ules based on the stars and planets in the sky isn’t exactly where
the couple thought they’d be. Not by a longshot. Alexandra was
an IVF nurse at Lenox Hill Hospital—a job she thoroughly loved
and still speaks passionately about; Joe was a property manager and
edibleeastend.com 55
real estate developer based in Jackson Heights, Queens. But 40 or
so years ago, Joe Sr. had purchased over 500 acres of potato farm-
land, renting the plots to local farmers and introducing Joe Jr. to the
wide-open spaces and salty charms of the North Fork. After he and
Alexandra met and married, they began to spend summers here,
renting a house and stopping in at the now-defunct Mattituck Hills
Winery for some casual swirling and sipping fun, buying a few bot-
tles here and there to take back home. Little did they know they’d
end up owning that very piece of property—where the North Road
tasting room sits today—and its now well-established merlot vines.
By the early ’90s, it got harder and harder to leave the weekends
behind, and Joe and Alexandra decided to move out to Mattituck
full-time. At ﬁrst, Joe commuted back and forth while Alexandra was
busy raising their then three children, with a fourth that would soon
be on the way. Joe Sr. had been keeping an eye on the burgeoning
wine industry, and approached his son and daughter-in-law about giv-
ing a winery a go. Tey started with an ambitious 60 planted acres in
Searching steward: Joe Macari, and his wife, Alexandra, who
have planted 100 acres of vines since the early 1990s, say they have
learned that the choices you make in the vineyard aﬀect more
than the ultimate life of the plants.
56 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
1995 on the land his dad bought all those years ago. “We thought we
were too big!” laughs Alexandra. A couple of years later, they planted
40 more. And while they learned from their mistakes and successes
(“Now we’ve learned that lower yields make for better-tasting fruit,”
says Alexandra), they also learned that farming is a very imperfect,
beautiful, frustrating occupation, but one in which the choices you
make aﬀect more than the ultimate life of the plants. A conversation
with a potato-farming friend clued Joe into the notion that many of
the chemicals used in farming sprays were related to those used to
create the Vietnam warfare herbicide Agent Orange—from that early
point, he knew that this wasn’t what he wanted to work with, and he
began to study the tenets of ecological and biodynamic farming.
“I’ve known the Macaris’ wines pretty much since they started,”
says Chris Miller, wine director at the Living Room at the Maid-
stone Arms in East Hampton, whose list focuses on sustainably
minded producers. “I look for family-owned wineries,” says Miller.
“Places where [the owner’s] children play there. You especially ﬁnd
this in Europe where domaine owners plan on passing the property
to their oﬀspring, so they take care of land in a better manner; take
it to a higher level. And the Macaris have done that.” In fact, in
the Macaris’ measured approach to chemical use, Miller ﬁnds some
old-world precedent. “It’s what Europeans call lutte raisonnée,” says
Miller. “What it means is if you’re in a region where it’s diﬃcult or
dangerous to the health of the vineyard to be 100 percent biody-
namic and organic”—like in Long Island’s prevailing damp condi-
tions, for instance—“you do the best you can and kill-oﬀ [pests and
fungus] in the most gentle manner that you can so you don’t lose
your vineyard. Macari is doing a wonderful job of this.”
Today, the Macaris have 200 acres under vine—which include
merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, syrah, petit
verdot, malbec, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and viognier—and
from the get-go they eschewed chemical nitrogen in favor of a soil-
enrichment program fed from nutrient-balancing “teas” (a sort of
liquid soil booster that Alexandra coaxes from a mix of nettles and
compost) and oﬀerings from the mountain-high compost pile made
up of leaves, vegetables, horse manure, and ﬁsh heads, tails and
bones. Tey encourage the natural insect population and native area
plants for cover crops. Joe has planted around 200 of those manure-
ﬁlled horns around the property to jibe with Steiner’s soil and plant
vitality program. And while Joe readily admits to the need to spray
for things like powdery mildew, especially in years as particularly
uncooperative on the East End as 2011, he never uses chemical fer-
tilizers or insecticides. “Tere are a lot of things that are wrong be-
tween the cosmos and the earth; we need to ﬁx it. And I know I’m
both part of the problem and the solution, but that’s my struggle.”
Te rest of the 450 acres, which include a second tasting room
and its surrounding property in Cutchogue on the North Road that
they acquired in 2008, are ﬁlled with a treasure of biodiversity. As
lovely at the North Fork is, the beauty of their property is still some-
thing to behold, and riding around it feels a bit like you’ve entered
another romantic world. Maybe the Loire Valley or perhaps even
some gently hilly countryside in Virginia. But no, it’s just lovely
Long Island, allowed to ﬂourish and grow under good stewardship:
Tere are wetlands, woods of birch and locust, thickets of cattails,
goldenrod and wildﬂowers, and, if you go far enough, a cliﬀ that
overlooks the rolling waters of the Sound. Sequestered in large,
open pens around the property are grazing longhorn cattle, rab-
bits, pigs, goats, turkeys and chickens. Tere are 70 beehives tucked
into funny square houses that look like an oddball sort of outdoor
ﬁling cabinet system in three diﬀerent spots scattered around the
property. Tere are 30 acres of corn for feed; there’s an enormous
greenhouse where they grow a mind-boggling amount of peppers,
multiple kinds of tomatoes, eggplant, lettuce, herbs, nettles and a
ﬁg tree, too, nodding to Joe’s Frosinone, Italy, born grandparents.
With all the changing, thriving, growing life cycles on in the
vineyard, there have been changes indoors at the winery, too. In
July 2010, Paola Valverde of Chile, Macari’s main winemaker for
seven years, left. In her place easily slipped Kelly Urbanik, a name
you might know from her years spent at the former Bedell oﬀshoot,
Corey Creek. A native of Healdsburg in the heart of Napa, Cali-
fornia, Urbanik fell hard for the East Coast, and the way she came
to Macari was about as natural as it gets. She met Joe and Alexan-
dra’s daughter, Gabriella, on a beach volleyball team, striking up a
friendship in 2006 that would lead her eventually to the Macaris’
door. Urbanik is a patient, observing and thoughtful kind of wine-
maker; laid-back and trusting of the good fruit Joe cultivates out in
the vineyard, with a desire for wines that really show a sense of the
blocks in which they are planted, and the expression of the vintage
from which they came. Her imprint tends toward wines that are
the best possible expression of themselves; incredibly aromatic and
Macari’s Urbanik is a patient, observing and thoughtful kind of
winemaker; laid-back and trusting of the good fruit Joe cultivates out in
the vineyard. Her imprint tends toward wines that are the best possible
expression of themselves; incredibly aromatic and much less manipulated.
edibleeastend.com 57
much less manipulated, and some early tastings prove extremely
promising. We barrel-tasted through a few of her reds from the 2010
vintage—a ﬂoral, elegant, plushy cabernet franc from a plot near
Bergen Road; another from older vines full of pretty, ripe plum and
blackberry notes with none of the abrasive greenness that cab fran
can sometimes have; an expressive, intense, vibrant merlot from the
vines that stretch out behind the Mattituck tasting room, all rich,
juicy black cherries, blackberries and tobacco that already was such
a journey on the palate at this young point in its life.
There are other recent changes, too, to keep up with their
17,000-case-a-year production. Around the same time Kelly arrived,
the Macaris added a new barrel cellar, a new private dining room for
special parties with a great little tricked-out kitchen down the hall,
as well as a bright new windowed tasting area with doors leading to
a patio that looks out upon the vines of Block C, the original merlot
acreage. Tere’s the second tasting room, too, on Route 25, with a
pretty copper-topped bar that the Macaris acquired from a nearby
restaurant. And around the main tasting room in Mattituck are ﬂags
from other nations, representing the homelands of some of their 40
or so employees (and nodding to Alexandra’s Argentine family back-
ground). “Wine has no borders,” oﬀers Joe. “We don’t sit around
drinking our own wine every night. If you don’t get out and try the
wines and food of other places, how can you judge your own?”
But like any vineyard owner, he does of course judge his own,
starting at the ground level. Because, really, it all amounts to a
hill of badly grown beans to them if the land isn’t any good. “Te
soil is alive,” he says. “It’s hard farming, but doing things this way
revitalizes it; it connects to everything.”
Amy Zavatto grew up on Shelter Island and writes about food, wine
and spirits from her home on Staten Island.
FARM ON LAND AND AT SEA. Give Support.
Why not sign your loved one, or yourself, up for
an associate membership in the Long Island Farm
Bureau, which is available for nonfarmers interested
in the future of our agricultural community. Enjoy
member beneﬁts and be a part of the lobby for $80
per year. lifb.com Or, learn to grow shellﬁsh with
SPAT; $150 gets you a year’s worth of
classes, your own shellﬁsh garden
and 1,000 oyster seed. ccesuﬀolk.org
FEBRUARY 28

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edibleeastend.com 59
WATER MILL—Te East End of Long Island is no outpost of
North African culture. If you were to marry here, and if you want-
ed, say, a Tunisian delicacy like droigts de la mariée, or bride’s ﬁn-
gers, at the reception, you might make them yourself (a bad idea)
or you could ring Martine Abitbol, a Shelter Island chef reared in
Tunisia and France whom I love to cook with.
Alan Ceppos and Frédéric Rambaud, the owners of the Hamptons
Honey Company, wisely chose the latter course of action. On July 26,
at 10:30 in the morning, the two became the ﬁrst gay couple to wed
in Southampton. Ceppos, a New Yorker with deep-set eyes in a moon
face, and Rambaud, a slender, handsome Frenchman from Senegal,
lived together in Paris for 10 years, where they developed a taste for
the Tunisian cuisine that Abitbol grew up with. Having long enjoyed
her food, which draws on the traditions of Tunisia’s Sephardi, Arab,
Berber and Italian communities, Ceppos and Rambaud engaged
Abitbol to cater a feast for 45 guests, to be held that evening.
HAPPENINGS
A COUPLE WEDS IN WATER MILL
International fare for a pioneering state ceremony.
BY LAUREL BERGER t PHOTOGRAPHS BY JENNY GORMAN
Editor’s Note: We shared in the pride people felt this past summer when Governor Cuomo made New York the sixth state,
and largest state, to legalize gay marriage. And, naturally, we were curious about what food would be served at the ﬁrst
weddings sanctioned by this law. At Gracie Mansion, our friends at Great Performances had the privilege of catering the
Sunday-morning ceremony oﬃciated by Mayor Bloomberg, complete with Montauk seafood and Long Island wines,
Hudson Valley vegetables and local cheeses, poultry and beef, Brooklyn-brewed beers, and even bouquets and ﬂoral ar-
rangements picked the day before the wedding from the ﬁelds of the caterer’s own Katchkie Farm. We had the pleasure
of attending one of the ﬁrst gay marriages in Suﬀolk County, the town hall ceremony of Alan Ceppos and Frédéric Ram-
baud, followed by an all-day celebration at their home in Water Mill. What follows is a play-by-play of the locavore-tinged
international specialties they assembled, as chronicled by Laurel Berger and photographed by Jenny Gorman.
Sealed with a meal: After the Ceppos-Rambaud wedding din-
ner, the staﬀ and newlyweds posed, including, back row from left,
Frédéric Rambaud, Cody Simons and Alan Ceppos, and, front
row from left, the author, Martine Abitbol, Gabrielle Apparu, Jill
Doherty and Anne Apparu.
60 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
Te ingredients of a marriage: Clockwise, from above, Rambaud sam-
ples the fare as the cooks prepare; thin-skinned peppers purchased that
afternoon from an old farmer on Shelter Island; Abitbol frying home-
made rolls, a Tunisian specialty called “fricassée” (Each was split
down the middle and stuﬀed with méchouia just before serving.); as
the guests arrive, the ﬁrst batch of droigts de la mariée were deep-fried
until golden; the ﬁnished fricassée; a Judeo-Tunisian feast begins with
an array of kemia or cold mixed appetizers.
edibleeastend.com 61
62 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
Recruited to help with the preparations, I met Abitbol and her
capable daughter, the chef Anne Apparu, at the wedding couple’s 15-
acre farm and compound on the afternoon of the dinner. At sunset
massive loaves of semolina dough were still rising, platters heaped
with lamb awaited the grill, and buckets of summer vegetables had
not yet been dealt with for the couscous. And, of course, there were
those doigts de la mariée—sheets of brick, a fragile tissue-thin pastry,
ﬁlled, in this variation, with minced shrimp ﬂavored with cilantro,
lemon and garlic, and rolled into neat scrolls before being tossed into
the deep fryer. Tough bride’s ﬁngers are labor-intensive and ﬁddly—
the pastry leaves must be kept moist or they will break apart in your
hands—this wouldn’t be a Tunisian wedding without them.
Soon the guests were at the door, arriving from Europe, India,
Africa and the borough of Queens. A few locals ﬁltered in. Checking
my sheet pan of digits, some emaciated, others pudgy, I glanced
at the clock, which read half past seven. Ceppos and Rambaud
wandered into the kitchen. Dressed in caftans of shimmering silk,
they looked like caliphs or extremely prosperous North African
merchants. “More hot pepper!” Rambaud mock-commanded after
tasting the méchouia, a mash of grilled sweet peppers, tomatoes,
onions, tuna, capers and preserved lemons. “But not too much, we
don’t want the taste buds overexcited.” Abitbol, who is small and
agile, was a picture of serenity, as if it had not crossed her mind that
unless all the elements of this meal came together snappety-snap,
we’d be responsible for the ﬁrst gay divorce in the Hamptons.
For a moment, I’d forgotten that she comes from a long line
of brilliant cooks who are always in control. (I once witnessed her
octogenarian mother bang out, chez Abitbol, an elaborate dinner
for 10 featuring pkaila, a Jewish-Tunisian wedding stew of beef
and greens. Later Madame remarked that she had completed the
most onerous bit the day before, at her Paris apartment. Tat an
elderly woman managed to smuggle a suspicious jar of a dark,
viscous substance—spinach paste—past airport security oﬃcials
is a feat as impressive as it is worrisome.)
“Allez les enfants,” Abitbol murmured, “Un dernier eﬀort et c’est
ﬁni.” And then she told Apparu to take the minina from the fridge
and prepare it for serving. Part frittata, part terrine, enriched with
hard-cooked eggs and chicken, minina, eaten cold, is a Jewish-
Tunisian dish served at weddings and celebrations. (In the past,
calves’ brains were a common addition, but Abitbol says that
almost no one includes them anymore.) You bake the mixture in a
cake pan until ﬁrm, slosh on a ladle of chicken broth and cool it in
the fridge. Some describe minina as a casserole but they’re wrong;
with its custardy texture, it’s closer to a ﬂan.
According to Te Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, minina used to be
prepared in a skillet. Once the top was set, the minina was inverted
onto a plate and eased back into the skillet to cook the other side—just
like a Spanish potato omelet. Tis makes me wonder if Jewish exiles
from Spain might not have brought the dish to Tunisia. How else to
account for that melliﬂuous name with its ancient Castilian ring?
Anyway, when the wedding party arrives, you whip out the pan,
cut the minina into cubes and have the servant oﬀer it to the guests
with small wedges of lemon, complemented by excellent sundry hors
d’oeuvres, while the cooks proceed calmly with the rest of the feast.
Te bride’s ﬁngers dipped in harissa were a triumph. Te chicken
with preserved lemons and okra was pronounced sublime. All savored
the arissa, a semolina and honey cake meant to evoke the sweetness of
life. Perhaps it aﬀected the new couple: at the end of the evening, as
Apparu made room in the freezer for a tray of leftover lamb couscous
next to a stash of good old cherry blintzes, Rambaud happily assured
us that neither groom has any plans for a second marriage.
Laurel Berger is an arts writer in Sag Harbor.
MARTINE ABITBOL’S MININA
(For eight)
10 free-range organic eggs, lightly beaten
4 hard-boiled eggs, roughly diced
1.5 lbs. chicken breast and thighs, on the bone (about half a chicken)
A large handful of bread, crumbs only, pulled from a good country loaf
3 c. homemade chicken stock or water
5 T. olive oil (or more)
½ lemon or lime, cut into small wedges
Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 375°. In a stockpot, poach the chicken in
homemade chicken stock or salted water for 25–30 minutes,
skimming oﬀ any impurities that rise to the surface. When the
chicken is no longer pink, remove and discard the skin, but leave
some fat, which will give the minina ﬂavor.
Pull the meat from the bones and roughly chop it. Combine
the chicken with the hard-cooked eggs in a medium-size bowl. At
this point, if you poached the chicken in water, return the bones
to the pot and continue cooking them for another hour until you
have a good-tasting broth; otherwise, proceed with the recipe.
In a small bowl, moisten the bread with ¼–½ cup of stock. Grease
a 9-inch cake pan with a generous quantity of olive oil. Warm the pan
in the oven. (Tis operation should only take a minute or two. If the
oil begins to smoke, clean the pan and start over.) Wring out the bread
and add it to the bowl with the chicken and hard-boiled eggs. Tip in
the beaten eggs and season the mixture aggressively with sea salt and
fresh-cracked black pepper, then, wearing oven mitts, pour it into the
prepared pan and cover the pan. Bake the minina for 15–20 minutes
until ﬁrm. When it is done, turn oﬀ the oven, and ladle on a half-cup
of chicken stock, freezing the rest for another use. Return the pan to
the unlit oven for another 10 minutes or so, until most of the stock has
been absorbed. Chill the minina in the refrigerator. Serve in cubed
pieces garnished with small wedges of lemon.
Discover Life in North Fork Wine Country
Nicholas J. Planamento
Senior Vice President
Licensed Associate Broker, CBR
631-948-0143 • 631-298-0600
Delivering Concierge Service
on the North Fork of Long Island
[email protected]
ESTATE & WINERY TOURS TASTINGS EVENTS
OPEN FOR TASTINGS DAILY 11 AM
1 3 9 S A G G R D . , S A G A P O N A C K , N Y
6 3 1 . 5 3 7 . 5 1 0 6 WWW. WO L F F E R . C O M
64 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
EAST HAMPTON—Of all the beautiful, puzzling and seemingly
anachronistic objects from What’s Cooking: East Hampton Kitchens
1648–1948, an exhibit that ran at the East Hampton Historical So-
ciety this past fall, the one that resonated most with me was the
“baby cage,” an ominous—and unfortunately named—wooden
container where a 17th-century mother cooking at an open ﬁre or
massive wood stove could quickly stow any toddler that might wan-
der too close to the hearth. (Tink of it as a Pack-’N-Play, only not
foldable and painted a very dark shade of black.) Te baby cage had
a sort of feeding tray where a baby might ﬁnd food or toys, and as
historical society director Richard Barons discreetly pointed out to
our tour group, little holes drilled through the bottom of the box-
shape container. “For drainage,” he added quietly.
We’re always looking for useful tips on cooking and eating wise-
ly with young children. Te baby cage, although long extinct, shows
that sometimes the right way to involve kids in kitchen tasks is to
not involve them, so the parent can get on with preparing the meal,
tidying and everything else we need to do to keep a home.
But this petite and meticulously displayed exhibit of 300
items, curated by Barons and Frank Newbold, the chair of the
society’s collection committee, provides inspiration and guid-
ance for our locavore-leaning modern food ways. Consider the
extensive evidence it presents that barter and small-scale backyard
homesteading were essential parts of East Hampton culture until
just a half century ago. Te diversity of butter churns and butter
molds found in the society’s collection, and gathered from local
households, shows that most people made their own butter and
many probably kept a cow in the yard (or had access to fresh milk
from nearby). Te society’s collection includes at least 10 cheese
ladders—used to make square wheels of cheese—indicating to
Barons that, at a certain time, “probably every home on Main
Street owned one. “Cheese curds were one of the most popular
homemade treats in the 1700s.” People who regularly drank coﬀee
probably roasted it at home, and deﬁnitely ground it—by hand—
at home. A long wall-mounted display of hearth tools demon-
strates that open ﬁre cooking need not be purely utilitarian or
blunt. Tere were tools for keeping exact temperature, precise cut-
ting and careful browning of the tops of pastries. Instead of im-
mersion blenders and food processors, there were berry mashers (as
opposed to potato mashers), meat juice presses and sugar sheers.
Even if cheese ladders have been replaced by more modern
tools and techniques, today’s DIY culture might feel at home with
some of these objects, or might be creative enough to replicate
their uses, sort of like Sarah Lohman, the Queens-based histori-
cal gastronomist who took on the task of making ice cream from
1890. Consider an egg boiler intended to be placed on a table in a
sort of performance art: boiling water was poured in the bottom,
six eggs ﬁt above, and the device was shut for as long as it took for
the top-mounted hourglass to run out, when the top would be
opened and the eggs divvied up.
We may not encounter the same sort of craftspersonship in
cookware today. “Like so many things in the 19th century, it’s
over-engineered,” Barons said of a tabletop butter churn that had
assorted drainage gutters to catch any spillage, or baking tins that
were keystoned ever so slightly to allow easy extraction of what-
ever was baking. Rolling pins and butter molds were made from
lignum vitae, a super-hard Caribbean wood brought North by
18th-century whalers. Tere are stackable sieves and corner cup-
boards with precisely routed slots for particular tools that would
make Ikea designers drool.
Tis exhibit, on display at the Clinton Academy Museum at
151 Main Street in East Hampton, was actually the culmination
of nearly three years of research. Historical societies all over Long
Island had conferred on a topic that they might jointly present,
and settled on food. So far, the East Hampton Historical Society
show is the only one that has actually been mounted. Hopefully,
it will serve to prompt some of the other historical societies to dust
oﬀ their butter churns and baby cages this winter.
For hours and more information, visit easthamp tonhistory.org.
HEIRLOOMS
CHEESE LADDERS, FIRKINS, BABY CAGES
AND OTHER COOKING CURIOSITIES
Why should historical societies look in their pantries?
BY BRIAN HALWEIL
P
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MOM AND POP SHOPS. Drink Local. Support wine shops that stock local wine
and spirits: Michael’s in Riverhead has a whole room, as does Showcase in Southold.
Domaine Franey in East Hampton is bulking up their selection of New York spirits.
Apple peeler, circa 1888.
Blue-green Greek revival corner
cupboard (circa 1830) bursting
with yellow-ware (circa 1850-1920).
Butter print, circa 1870.
Hearth tools (circa 1750–1850). Te collection includes peels,
toasters, grills, ﬂesh forks, heart-shaped trivets and choppers.
Ingeniously improvised apple paring device.
Mortar and pestle,
circa 1740.
Te Ideal Stewart Stove (circa 1905) is surrounded
by an amazing array of special and everyday kitchen
items used by our East End ancestors.
66 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
P
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Cheese baskets and cheese ladders (circa 1850s) and Fruit Press (circa 1920)
used predominantly by our East End ancestors for making apple cider.
Baby Cage, used by East End mothers in the
1800s to keep baby safe while cooking over
an open ﬁre, either indoors or outdoors.
Clam shucker (circa 1880) and clam basket (circa 1800).
Salt-glazed & Redware bottles, crocks and jugs, gathered from
New York State, circa 1790–1860.
Te Davis Swing butter churn, circa 1879.
Nutmeg grater, circa 1880.
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68 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
edibleeastend.com 69
SOUTHOLD—In early winter, when some
East Enders are squirreling away thick-skinned
squash in preparation for the long months seem-
ingly barren of local produce, a hearty handful
of men are just gearing up for their harvest.
Clamming season on Arshamomaque (or
Hashamomuck) Pond, a body of salt water qui-
etly sprawling between the Bay and the Sound,
requires some special equipment and a certain
thickness of blood. Te water is shallow, making
it warm in the summer and thus perfect for the
fast growth of mollusks, but also prone to freez-
ing after a few chilly January nights. Te clam-
mers come clad in neoprene waders and armed
with long-handled rakes, and upon entering the
water, attach to themselves a ﬂoating screen and
a collecting basket.
Below their feet are hard-shell clams,
“happy” and scattered across the sandy bottom
among stones and debris. In order to bring his
prey to the surface, a clammer must sink the
tines of a large basket-rake into the bottom and
slowly work the rake across a patch, using a tug-
ging motion that looks like someone trying to
uproot a stubborn sapling. Once brought to the
surface and washed of mud, the catch is sepa-
rated from the stones and tossed in the screen to
sort out anything under one inch before eventu-
ally being moved to the basket in batches.
VISUAL VICTUALS
COLDSEASON
CLAMMING
Tere are hearty harvesters
behind your winter chowder.
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS
BY CHRISTOPHER FANJUL
An early, still morning on Arshamomaque Pond,
just east of the Port of Egypt Marina in Southold.
70 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
edibleeastend.com 71
All this is accomplished under the watchful gaze of div-
ing mergansers, which seem equally impervious to the wa-
ter’s chill. Te clams will be loaded into the back of a pickup
and deposited at seafood markets on the East End and in
Nassau County, where they will be sorted by size into little-
necks, cherrystones and chowder clams. While clams might
not drum up the same excitement as the ﬁrst tomatoes of
summer, they are a long-standing and ﬂavorful element of
local cuisine, and hopefully will be for years to come.
Christopher Fanjul lives in Southold and plans to forage mush-
rooms, oysters and goat cheese all winter long.
A good rake and warm gloves help pull in a bucket of clams.
Northern Quahogs (Mercenaria mercenaria), also called
“hard-shell clams” to distinguish them from “soft-shell”
steamers, conveniently packed in ice from the pond. Te
long-handled rake is rested on a clammer’s shoulder to get
better leverage. Te clams will be sorted from the stones and
then kept alive in the ﬂoating basket.
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This family-run farm bordering Mecox Bay
specializes in beautiful herbs, fruit and veg-
etables, one-of-a-kind bunches of cut flow-
ers, Mecox Bay Dairy cheeses, Berkshire
pigs and fresh pastured chicken and duck
eggs. The famous 8-acre corn maze is open
Labor Day through Nov. 8. Farm stand
at 19 Horsemill Ln., Bridgehampton,
631.537.1445, cornfieldmaze.com
Garden of Eve Organic Farm Market
& Garden Center
This Riverhead farm offers a large selection
of organic vegetable & herb plants, annuals
and perennials, as well as their own organic
heirloom vegetables, cut flowers, and free-
range pastured eggs, on site from April 1
until Thanksgiving. And at farmers markets
in Westhampton Beach, Mt. Sinai, and
Williamsburg, Brooklyn, as well as through
CSAs on the farm, across Long Island, in
Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens. 4558
Sound Ave. (at Northville Tpk.), Riverhead,
631.722.8777, gardenofevefarm.com
Golden Earthworm Organic Farm
Celebrating over 13 years of beautiful cer-
tified organic produce and community-
supported agriculture (CSA) Program,
they look forward to welcoming you all into
their growing farm community. Join now
for the 2010 CSA which runs June through
November with 28 pick-up locations in
Suffolk, Nassau, and Queens Counties.
652 Peconic Bay Blvd., Jamesport,
631.722.3302, goldenearthworm.com
Green Thumb Organic Farm
Farmed by the Halsey family since the
1640s, this 100-acre property is the oldest
organic farm in NYS, and is biodynamic,
too. The roadside farm stand offers over
300 varieties of vegetables, fruit, herbs,
flowers and seedlings, and other products
made by local artisans. Weekend pony
rides and fall farm tours. Montauk Hwy.,
Water Mill, 631.726.1900
The Milk Pail Farm, Orchard & Greenhouses
A farm-family tradition in Water Mill offer-
ing U-pick apples and pears, pumpkins, cider,
cider donuts, peaches, cherries, flowers and
more. Montauk Highway between Water
Mill and Bridgehampton, milk-pail.com)
Pike Farms
This one-stop farm stand features strawber-
ries, raspberries, early greenhouse tomatoes,
field tomatoes and famous sweet corn—as
well as fruits, granola, flowers, pies and
artisanal breads. Wholesale available.
Sagg Main St., Sagaponack, 631.537.5854
Sang Lee Farms
This Peconic farms offers organic veg-
etables and herbs, local artisanal prod-
ucts, and their own line of dressings,
dips, cooking sauces, prepared and
preserved foods. Visit website to learn
about events, classes, CSA and farmers
markets. 25180 County Rd. 48, Peconic,
631.734.7001, sangleefarms.com
Quail Hill Farm
One of the original CSAs in the country
with over 200 members enjoying organic
produce and field-grown flowers, Quail
Hill also provides produce to a local
school, food pantries, a farmers market
and local restaurants. Only proven sus-
tainable farming techniques are used.
Synthetic insecticides, herbicides, fun-
gicides and fertilizers are avoided. Deep
Ln. and Side Hill Ln., Amagansett,
283.3195, peconiclandtrust.org
Springfield Creamery
This family business offers history, a
commitment to values and a short list of
healthful ingredients as their recipe for suc-
cess—50 years and counting. Producers of
high-quality cultured dairy and soy prod-
ucts that are uncompromising in their com-
mitment to simple, healthy and all-natural
ingredients, Springfield Creamery has been
a pioneer of cultured yogurt production
within the natural foods industry. A com-
mitment to providing the most healthful
products to the largest number of people
has earned Springfield Creamery recogni-
tion, like Oregon Tilth’s “2009 Organic
Producer of the Year” award, and Oregon
Organic Coalition’s 2010 “Processor of the
Year” award. nancysyogurt.com
FARMERS MARKETS
The Community Farmers Market at
the Hayground School
A collaborative school-community farm-
ers market on Fridays, Memorial Day
weekend-Labor Day weekend from
3-6:30 p.m., on the beautiful grounds of
the Hayground School. Locally grown pro-
duce (including student-grown seedlings,
vegetables and flowers), seafood, farmstead
cheeses, European-style baked goods, wine,
organic infused olive oils, spreads and fresh
pasta, pizza and more. 151 Mitchell Ln.,
Bridgehampton, 631.987.3553
East Hampton Farmers Market
Nestled in the parking lot of Hamptons land-
mark restaurant Nick & Toni’s, this Friday
market features locally grown vegetables and
fruit, honey, farmstead cheeses, mushrooms,
colorful plants and flowers, goat’s milk fudge,
the best baguette on Long Island, wine, fabu-
lous French bakery items, local seafood and
homespun llama wool. 136 North Main St.,
East Hampton, 631.324.3550
Sag Harbor Farmers Market
This bayfront market offers local and
organic produce, artisanal baked goods,
raw-milk cheeses, pickles, seafood, mush-
rooms, honey, wine and f lowers and
herbs. Bay and Burke St., Sag Harbor.
Westhampton Beach Farmers Market
40+ farmers, growers and producers all
from Long Island! The largest farmers mar-
ket in the Hamptons offering local bounty.
Rain or Shine, Saturdays 9 a.m.–1 p.m.,
May 7–Nov 19, 2011. 85 Mill Rd (Village
Municipal Parking Lot next to the WHB
Historical Society). 631.288.3337, info@
westhamptonbeachfarmersmarket.com,
WesthamptonBeachFarmersMarket.com
COFFEE ROASTERS
Hampton Coffee Company
The award-winning coffee roastery, espresso
bar, & bakery with locations in Water Mill
and Westhampton Beach, features small-
batch hand-roasted Arabica beans. It offers
an authentic Mexican grill menu at the Water
Mill full-service café, and breakfast, lunch
and outdoor seating at both locations, as well
as their new Mobile Espresso Unit. Water
Mill & Westhampton Beach, 631.726.
COFE, hamptoncoffeecompany.com
edibleeastend.com 73
Nicole LaBella VP, Associate Broker
516.652.8888 | corcoran.com/labella
northforkwaterfrontproperties.com
Whether you are buying or selling a home, I provide personal
service to meet your individual needs. Representing waterfront
and inland properties throughout the North Fork;
I can help you achieve your real-estate dreams.
Contact me directly for a free property evaluation
or a tour of North Fork properties.
The Corcoran Group is a licensed real estate broker.
Owned and operated by NRT LLC.
BREWERIES
Fire Island Beer Company
Fire Island Beer Company crafts worldclass
beers inspired by the color, character and deli-
cious experience of Fire Island, NY. Look for
Fire Island Lighthouse Ale and Red Wagon
IPA at your favorite restaurant, beer bar or
beverage store. fireislandbeer.com
Greenport Harbor Brewery
Located at the very end of Long Island,
Greenport Harbor Brewery specializes in
making fresh small batch craft ale, with
the mission to constantly challenge people’s
notion of what a beer can be. Visit them at
the brewery, online or at the bars, restau-
rants, and beverage centers (growlers) who
carry them. 234 Carpenter St., Greenport,
631.477.6681, harborbrewing.com
Southampton Publick House
The East End’s first microbrewery restau-
rant offers Long Island’s finest casual din-
ing alongside handcrafted ales and lagers,
which are also available at specialty beer
bars and restaurants throughout New
England. 40 Bowden Sq., Southampton,
283.2800, publick.com
RESTAURANTS
A Lure Chowderhouse & Oysteria
The North Fork’s latest waterfront restau-
rant featuring local seafood and spirits with
a nouveau flair. Enjoy the views of Southold
Bay whether inside our cozy dining room
or relaxing on our luxurious wrap around
deck. 62300 Main Rd., Rte. 25, Southold;
631.876.5300; alurenorthfork.com
A Mano Osteria & Wine Bar
Tuscan dining with highlight on delec-
table local fare, produce and cheese from
the North Fork’s bounty, paired with
an extensive Italian and local wine list.
631.298.4800; amanorestaurant.com
Almond
This contemporary French bistro serves
seasonally driven fare, using local and
artisanal ingredients, with a year-round
$24.95 prix fixe and the “Best Dessert
in the Hamptons,” according to Wine
Spectator. 1 Ocean Road, Bridgehampton,
631.537.8885, almondrestaurant.com
Amarelle
This North Shore culinary gem, which
overlooks a scenic duck pond in Wading
River on the threshold of North Fork wine
country, serves up contemporary country
cuisine at the skillful hand of co-owner
and executive chef Lia Fallon. It features
many Long Island wines by the glass to go
with the French-inspired dishes that uti-
lize local fruits, cheese, produce and duck.
2028 North Country Road, Wading
River. 631.886.2242, amarelle.net
Babette’s
Babette’s mostly organic menu features
world f lavors and local produce, veg-
etarian/vegan cuisine and organic grassfed
meats, in a casual-chic atmosphere with
cool jazz. Serving breakfast until 4 p.m.,
lunch and dinner, and offering an organic
juice bar, organic wines and full liquor
bar. 66 Newtown Ln., East Hampton,
631.329.5377, babettesrestaurant.com.
Bay Burger
This Sag Harbor burger joint serves their
own freshly ground beef on a homemade
brioche-style bun, as well as homemade ice
cream (available in Hamptons specialty shops
as Joe & Liza’s Ice Cream) and their amazing
local fish burger. 1742 Sag Harbor Tpk., Sag
Harbor, 631.899.3915, bayburger.com
Beacon Restaurant
Waterfront dining with groovy sunsets,
Beacon serves solid American fare in the
comfort of a great bar and leather ban-
quettes. Available for private functions.
8 W. Water St., Sag Harbor, 725.7088
Blackwell’s Restaurant
Perfectly located at the gateway to Long
Island Wine Country, Blackwell’s offers
exceptional pairings with prime dry-aged
steaks and chops and fresh local sea-
food. 141 Fairway Dr., Wading River.
631.929.1200, greatrockgolfclub.com
Ciao Bella Senhora
Veteran restaurateur and family offer excep-
tional Northern Italian cuisine and delicious
Portuguese specialties, with delicacies from
Brazil and France. International wines
paired with the finest flavored churrasco
wood-fired rotisserie meats, poultry, and sea-
food. Foodies welcome! 322 West Montauk
Hwy, Hampton Bays, 631.728.2218,
ciaobellasenhora.com.
Fresno Restaurant
Serving regional American cuisine night-
ly, year-round, Fresno boasts a zinc-top
bar, warm lighting and patio seating
in season. Prix fixe menu available. 8
Fresno Pl., East Hampton, 324.8700
The Frisky Oyster
Chef/owner Robert Beaver offers imagina-
tive cuisine in the sophisticated, metro-
politan atmosphere craved by locals and
visitors for years. His menu changes daily
to showcase the most exceptional, local
ingredients from Pipes Cove, KK’s, Sep’s
and Satur Farms to name a few. The local
and international wine list is personally
selected to complement the current menu.
Dinner is available in their stylish dining
room or at the buzzing bar. DJ Frisky
turns up the beat as the energy level rises
after 9 p.m. 27 Front St., Greenport,
631.477.4265, thefriskyoyster.com
Foody’s
Better food for the entire family. Cooking
from scratch and hand-selecting farm-fresh
produce, enjoy wood-grilled meats and veg-
gies, house-made mozzarella, hand-stretched
thin crust pizza and abundant local seafood
and veggies. Catering available. 760 Montauk
Hwy., Water Mill, 726.FOOD
Jamesport Manor Inn
Experience North Fork history and
unprecedented local cuisine in the mag-
nificently reconstructed 1850’s Gothic
Revival mansion, featuring an extensive
list of carefully selected wines, as well
as a local artist art gallery. Private din-
ing rooms and catering available. 370
Manor Ln., Jamesport, 631.722.0500,
jamesportmanor.com
La Fondita
La Fondita, “little kitchen,” serves tacos,
posole rojo, homemade salsas, sopes,
tostadas and other dishes reminiscent of
the street food found all over Mexico.
A fun and casual atmosphere, offering
takeout and seating on picnic tables over-
looking the pond. 74 Montauk Hwy.,
Amagansett, 267.8800, lafondita.net
The Little Kitchen
Located just outside Sag Harbor, this
country restaurant features East End sea-
food, wines, produce, fruit, vegetables and
herbs from the restaurant’s own garden.
1615 Sag Harbor-Bridgehampton Tpk.,
Sag Harbor, 725.1045, eatshampton.com
74 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
Lobster Roll Northside
The critically acclaimed country version of
the famed Hampton’s seafooder (LUNCH)
operated by the originator! A “must do”
dining experience while on the North Fork!
631.369.3039; Lobster Roll.com
Luce & Hawkins at Jedediah
Hawkins Inn
This historic Jamesport inn and restaurant
offers warm service and a unique “earth to
table” dining experience from acclaimed
chef Keith Luce. The casual Luce’s
Landing menu is a perfect entry point
to discovering the f lavors of the North
Fork. 400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport,
631.722.2900,jedediahhawkinsinn.com
Nick & Toni’s
A forerunner to the East End’s current
restaurant community, Nick & Toni’s is
reminiscent of a Tuscan farmhouse. The
Mediterranean- and rustic Italian-influenced
seasonal menus feature local seafood, pro-
duce and the harvest from the restaurant’s
own organic garden. 136 N. Main St., East
Hampton, 631.324.3550, nickandtonis.com
Noah’s Restaurant
This Greenport restaurant offers a range of
small plates with inspired takes on tradi-
tional seafood dishes, with locally-sourced
ingredients. Featuring the only raw bar on
the North Fork, with local and internation-
al oysters, as well as wines available in 3- or
6-ounce pours. 136 Front St., Greenport,
631.477.6720, chefnoahs.com
North Fork Oyster Company
North Fork Oyster Company serves cre-
ative cuisine featuring the freshest local
produce and seafood from waters surround-
ing it on the East End of Long Island. Be
sure to contact us when looking for a place
to host your private event. 300 Main St.
(Sterling Sq.) Greenport; 631.477.6840;
northforkoystercompany.com
The North Fork Table & Inn
Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming pro-
vide progressive American menus com-
mitted to the highest standard of culinary
excellence. Understated elegance replaces
utility in each room in the tradition of
the finest European and American coun-
try inns. 57225 Main Rd., Southold,
765.0177, northforktableandinn.com
The Old Mill Inn
Built in 1820 and tucked into an unspoiled
corner of Long Island, this waterfront res-
taurant serves local, fresh fare overlooking
Mattituck Inlet. 5775 W. Mill Rd., Mattituck,
631.298.8080, theoldmillinn.net
Red Bar Brasserie
French-inspired American cuisine and
an award-winning wine list presented
by a professional and friendly staff.
Sophisticated and welcoming. Of f-
season prix fixe menu. 210 Hampton
Rd., Southampton, 631.283.0704
The Riverhead Project
Located in the District neighborhood of
Riverhead, the newest addition of restaura-
teur Dennis McDermott offers a contempo-
rary American menu with ethnic and healthy
influences. With honest food, excellent cock-
tails and an inspired wine list, TRP contrib-
utes energy, style and sense of community to
the East End’s restaurant scene. Downstairs,
the vault and adjacent vault bar are available
for private dining and conferences. Outdoor
dining and lounging has a Palm Springs
feel in the warmer seasons. Open in May
for lunch and dinner. 300 East Main St.,
Riverhead; 631.284.9300
Rowdy Hall
English pub and French bistro-style
cuisine. An Arts-and-Crafts-inspired
restaurant, with beautiful copper-topped
bar and soothing fireplace. According
to local lore, churchgoing locals found
the establishment still full of revelers on
Sunday mornings and declared it a “rowdy
hall.” A gathering place for locals and visi-
tors alike. 10 Main St., East Hampton,
631.324.8555, rowdyhall.com
Rugosa Restaurant
A year-round destination for modern
American fine dining in East Hampton.
Chef Bill Mammes applies his training in
contemporary French cuisine to local, sea-
sonal ingredients delivering a fresh approach
to Hamptons Dining. 290 Montauk
Highway, East Hampton, 631.604.1550
Scrimshaw
This restaurant’s historic waterfront
buildings, with panoramic views, open-
air dining and drinks on the dock, reflect
Greenport’s whaling history while its
cuisine ref lects modern tastes—a blend-
ing of classic techniques with Asian and
global inf luences. Preston’s Wharf, 102
Main St., Greenport, 631.477.8882,
scrimshawrestaurant.com
The Sea Grille at Gurney’s Inn
Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the
renowned Sea Grille reflects Montauk’s
fishing legacy offering morning-caught
fish, locally harvested shellfish, farmers
organic produce and regional specialties.
Spa guests choose from world-class menus
featuring preparations of the freshest ingre-
dients. 290 Old Montauk Hwy., Montauk,
631.668.2660, gurneysinn.com
Squiretown Restaurant + Bar
Thi s moder n Amer i can bi s t ro i n
Hampton Bays offers beautiful salads,
a raw bar, exciting appetizers, delicious
sandwiches, steaks, local seafood and
great wine, paired with impeccable ser-
vice and a great atmosphere. Take out
& Catering available. 26 W. Montauk
Hwy., Hampton Bays 631.723.2626.
Town Line BBQ
Texas-st yle on Montauk Hi ghway.
East Enders looking for beef and pork
ribs, burnt end sandwiches, pickles
and cornbread will enjoy the stripped-
down decor and menu straight out of
the Barbecue Belt. 3593 Townline Rd.
(and Montauk Hwy.), Sagaponack,
537.2271, townlinebbq.com
GOURMET FOODS
Cavaniola’s Kitchen
Churning out everything from smoked
fish pate to potato chips to soups and
salads, this shop next to Cavaniola’s
Gourmet (cheese) and Cavaniola’s Cellar
(wine) offers a range of fresh-made, ready-
to-eat delectables, as well as an extensive
catering menu. 89 Division St., Sag
Harbor, 631.725.8100, cavaniola.com
A Taste of the North Fork
Homegrown f lavors, freshness, sophis-
ticated taste. Enjoy the preserves, mus-
tards, vinegars, sauces, spreads—all
made from naturally grown, organic and
local fruits, flowers and herbs. Available
at the Sag Harbor Farmers Market and at
their store in Peconic. Custom-made gift
baskets, corporate gifts and event favors
available. 2885 Peconic Ln., Peconic,
631.734.6100, atasteofthenorthfork com
edibleeastend.com 75
“The Hamptons are a magical place, they capture the imagination...
from the ocean beaches, to the bountiful farm ﬁelds, to the charming villages.
Please let me know if I can be of assistance!”
Priscilla Garston | [email protected]
Word of Mouth?
More than ever. WordHampton.
” “
Strategic and Creative Thinking
Deep Media Relationships
Social Media Savvy
Client Partnering
www.wordhampton.com
631.329.0050
GROCERY STORES
Amagansett Farmers Market
This local landmark, now run by Eli Zabar
is part farmer’s market, part gourmet food
store and all about Eli’s committment to
local, sustainable and delicious. Don’t miss
the Amagansett loaf fresh out of the oven.
367 Main St., Amagansett, 631.267.3894
Whole Foods Market
The world’s leading organic and natural foods
supermarket. With new stores in Manhasset
and Jericho, Whole Foods Market carries
a growing selection of LI-grown produce,
seafood, and other edibles from small food
makers. A one-stop shop for natural meats,
healthy baked goods, organic produce, and
nontoxic beauty and cleaning products. 2101
Northern Blvd., Manhasset, 516.869.8900;
429 North Bwy., Jericho, 516.932.1733,
wholefoodsmarket.com
BAKERIES
Blue Duck Bakery Café
Everything Blue Duck sells is hand-formed
and baked fresh on premises, daily. Find
their signature line of artisanal breads
and finest quality pastries and cakes at
East End grocers, fine restaurants and all
local farmers markets. 30 Hampton Rd.,
Southampton, 631.204.1701; also 56275
Main Rd., Southold, 631.629.4123
Breadzilla
Serving scones, muffins, hand-rolled bagels,
granola and other breakfast fare baked each
morning. Everything made from scratch,
including soups, salads, sandwiches, pizzas
and pies featuring local produce and sea-
food. Specialty meats, pastries, birthday and
wedding cakes made to order. 84 Wainscott
NW Rd., off Montauk Hwy., Wainscott,
537.0955, breadzilla.com
ARTISANAL FOODS
Bees’ Needs
These East End honeys, produced with
small-scale, noninvasive practices that
promote bees’ health, are raw and unfil-
tered, multif loral blends that provide
customers with an expressive range of
artisanal honeys. CSA shares available.
Products sold at Sag Harbor farmers mar-
ket, The Greenthumb farmstand, Quail
Hill Farm, Juicy Naam and Marder’s.
631.702.5657, [email protected]
Catapano Dairy Farm
Long Island’s only goat dairy is a fam-
ily-operated farm specializing in hand-
crafted goat’s milk cheeses and pure
goat’s milk skin care products. 33705
North Rd., Peconic, 631.765.8042,
catapanodairyfarm.com
Chocolate Sommelier
Roxanne Browning hosts chocolate and
wine pairings to bring awareness of excep-
tional direct-trade, single-origin artisanal
chocolates. Guests enjoy their two favorite
pleasures at these entertaining and educa-
tional events held at wine bars, vineyards
and restaurants for public, business and pri-
vate functions. ExoticChocolateTasting.
com, 631.252.0658
The Hamptons Honey Company:
Your source for unprocessed, local and
raw honey—just as the bees intend-
ed. By working directly with other
smal l-scale beekeepers and fami ly-
owned apiaries around the world, the
Southampton-based Hamptons Honey
Company’s goal is to offer local, arti-
sanal honey wherever our label is found.
888.365.2325, hamptonshoney.com
Mecox Dairy
In a converted 19th-century potato
barn, Arthur and Stacy Ludlow turn
out award-winning cheeses from their
small herd of Jersey cows that graze near
Mecox Bay. Available at Cavaniola’s
Gourmet and Schiavoni’s in Sag Harbor,
the Village Cheese Shop in Southampton
and Mattituck, and Fairview Farm Stand
on Horsemill Lane in Bridgehampton.
855 Mecox Rd., Bri dgehampton,
631.537.0335, mecoxbaydairy.com
Organic Valley
This farmer-owned co-op produces milk,
cheese, butter, eggs, juice, soy beverages,
produce and meats—all organic. Available
at major grocers and health food stores.
1 Organic Way, La Farge, WI 54639,
888.444.MILK, organicvalley.coop
INNS AND B&B’S
Harbor Knoll
A waterfront B&B with its own private
beach and dock. It is an 1870’s Dutch
Colonial manor house decorated in the
English country-house style, with won-
derful gardens and spectacular views,
very quiet, yet within easy walking dis-
tance of Greenport Village and transport
directly to NYC. 424 4th St., Greenport;
631.477.2352; harborknoll.com
Jedediah Hawkins Inn
Winner of the prestigious New York
Historic Preservation Award and listed
in the National Register of Historic
Houses, t hi s meticulously restored
Capt a i n’s ma ns i on of f er s l uxur y
accommodations , warm service and a
unique “earth to table” dining experi-
ence from chef-proprietor Keith Luce.
400 S. Jamesport Ave., Jamesport,
631.722.2900,jedediahhawkinsinn.com
The Mill House Inn
A gracious inn in the heart of historic
East Hampton Village with beautifully
appointed rooms, spectacular child and
dog-friendly suites, and “the best break-
fast in the Hamptons.” Their Graybarn
Cottage is ideal for small weddings, con-
ferences and retreats. Named in the “Top
50 Small Hotels” by the Zagat US Hotel
Guide. 31 N. Main St., East Hampton,
631.324.9766, millhouseinn.com
NFBBA
Rest Assured—Select an i nspected
member inn approved by the North
Fork B&B Assn. (NFBBA); for 20
years the only organization for B&B’s
on Long Island recognized by NYS.
877.883.9333; [email protected]
The North Fork Table & Inn
Gerry Hayden and Claudia Fleming pro-
vide progressive American menus com-
mitted to the highest standard of culinary
excellence. Understated elegance replaces
utility in each room in the tradition of
the finest European and American coun-
try inns. 57225 Main Rd., Southold,
765.0177, northforktableandinn.com
The Old Mill Inn
Bui lt i n 1820 and t ucked i nto an
unspoiled corner of Long Island, this
waterfront restaurant serves local, fresh
fare overlooking Mattituck Inlet. 5775
W. Mill Rd., Mattituck, 631.298.8080,
theoldmillinn.net
Orient Inn
Built in 1906, this arts-and-crafts style farm-
house is located on Main Road, Orient, just
2 ½ miles from the Cross Sound ferry dock.
Orient Inn is seconds away from the historic
Hamlet of Orient, which is surrounded by
water and beaches where guests enjoy all that
nature provides for outdoor activities. Orient
Inn includes comfortable living rooms, fire-
places and five guest rooms each with pri-
vate baths. Chef Joan Turturro, a graduate
of the French Culinary Institute, provides
a memorable breakfast. Dinner is available
with advanced notice. The Inn is available
for theme events and workshops. Orient Inn,
25500 Main Rd., Orient; 631.323.2300, ori-
[email protected], orientinn-ny.com
Ruby’s Cove
Walk to restaurants, brewery, oyster bar and
the harbor and a short drive to wineries, farm
stands and beaches. 151 Bay Ave, Greenport,
631.477.1837, rubyscovebnb.com
Shorecrest Bed and Breakfast
Voted “Best B&B on Long Island” by
Channel 12 news viewers, and the only
B&B with our own beach on Long Island
Sound. Great food, elegant comfort,
spectacular gardens, good times! 54300
Cty Rte. 48, Southold; 631.765.1570;
shorecrestbedandbreakfast.com
CHEESE SHOPS
Cavaniola’s Gourmet Cheese Shop
Family-owned and -run cheese shop
offering over 150 types of local, domes-
tic and imported cheeses. Paninis, soups
and fondue to go, as well as a beautiful
selection of olive oils, balsamics, olives,
pâtés, fresh breads, pastries and more.
89B Division St., Sag Harbor, 725.0095
Lucy’s Whey
An exciting new shop offering a large,
carefully chosen selection of unique
American artisanal cheeses, as well as
other handcrafted American products,
including salamis, chutneys, oils, vinegars,
rubs and crostini. 80 N. Main St., East
Hampton, 324.4428, lucyswhey.com
SEAFOOD SHOPS
Stuart’s Seafood Market
The oldest fish market on the East End, bay-
men bring the catch of the day directly from
their boats to Stuart’s door. Specializing
in dayboat-fresh local seafood as well as
hardshell Nova Scotia lobsters of all sizes,
available live or cooked to order along with
a wide selection of gourmet provisions.
Full-service clambakes and catering. Voted
Best Clambake Caterer in the Dan’s Paper’s
Readers’ Poll. 41 Oak Ln., Amagansett,
267.6700, stuartsseafood.com
CHOCOLATE
Chocolate Sommelier
Roxanne Browning hosts chocolate and wine
pairings to bring awareness of exceptional
direct-trade, single-origin artisanal choco-
lates. Guests enjoy their two favorite pleasures
at these entertaining and educational events
held at wine bars, vineyards and restaurants
for public, business and private functions.
ExoticChocolateTasting.com, 631.252.0658
WINERIES
Bedell Cellars and Corey Creek Vineyards
Founded in 1980, Bedell North Fork
is recognized as a leader in Long Island
wine growing. With 78 planted acres, the
winery produces award-winning mer-
lots, Bordeaux-style blends and a special
Artist Series under the Bedell Cellars
label, and a range of small-batch varietal
wines under the Corey Creek Vineyards
label. Bedell Cellars, 36225 Main Rd.
(Rt. 25), Cutchogue, 734.7537; Corey
Creek Vineyards, Main Rd., Southold,
765.4168, bedellcellars.com
Channing Daughters Winery
A small, artisanal, quality-driven winery
specializing in the production of focused,
individual lots of wine made from an array
of grape varieties. Employing traditional
winemaking methods and experimentation
and creativity to achieve varietal and mul-
tivarietal wines of class and distinction.
1927 Scuttlehole Rd., Bridgehampton,
537.7224, channi ngdaughters.com
Gramercy Vineyards
Founded in 2003 by Carol Sullivan and
Erich Moenius, Gramercy Vineyards in
Mattituck is the producer of a trio of bou-
tique wines that includes a rosé, an Estate
Merlot and an exclusive Reserve Estate
Merlot. 10020 Sound Avenue, Mattituck,
GramercyVineyards.com
Jamesport Vineyards
A father-son collaboration that began
in 1981, Jamesport Vineyards’ 60 acres
constitute one of the North Fork’s old-
est vineyards. All of their wines are pro-
duced using only their high-quality fruit.
A large grassy backyard is available for
musical events, private parties and wed-
dings. Main Rd., Rt. 25, Jamesport,
631.722.5256, jamesportwines.com
Lenz
Founded in 1978, Lenz is one of the oldest
wineries on the East End. Owned and operat-
ed by Peter and Deborah Carroll, Lenz creates
critically acclaimed chardonnays, gewürz-
traminers, merlots, cabernets and sparkling
(méthode champenoise) wines. Main Rd./
Rt. 25, Peconic, 734.6010, lenzwine.com
Macari Vineyards
Macari vineyards has been known to
sow wildflowers and release thousands of
ladybugs in their largely organic approach
to managing their 180 acres of vines. Sip
wines at their tasting room or on their
covered deck. Available for private par-
ties, weddings and corporate events. 150
Bergen Ave., Mattituck; 24385 Route 25,
Cutchogue, 298.0100, macariwines.com
McCall Ranch
This family ranch specializes in fine estate
wines and grassfed organic cattle, and has
been growing and selling pinot noir and
merlot on Long Island’s North Fork for 14
years. A commitment to the preservation of
local wild and agricultural land and to our
environment in a broader view is integral
to our mission. The tasting room is open
12.30–5.30 p.m. Thurs–Sun. 22600 Rte
25 in Cutchogue. 631.734.5764
Osprey’s Dominion
The 75-acre winery is the first on Long
Island to contract for a wind turbine, with
a ground breaking this past fall attended by
executives from LIPA, Eastern Energy, the
press, and local politicians, and an unveiling
this coming spring. Visit their tasting room
and see the future of energy in Long Island
wine country. 44075 Main Rd., Peconic,
631.765.6188, ospreysdominion.com
Palmer Vineyards
Founded in 1923 on a rolling parcel of grav-
elly farmland on the North Fork of Long
Island, Palmer Vineyards has become a sig-
nificant part of the Long Island wine industry
where “excellence is never an accident.” The
tasting room is open year-round, regularly
hosts music, and is available for special events.
5120 Sound Ave., Riverhead, 631.722.
WINE (9463), palmervineyards.com.
76 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
Paumanok Vineyards
Founded in 1983, Paumanok is an estate
winery dedicated to the production of pre-
mium vinifera wines. The Massouds grow
chardonnay, chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc,
riesling, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon,
merlot and petit verdot. 1074 Main Rd.,
Aquebogue, 722.8800, paumanok.com
Raphael
Established in 1996, Raphael is dedicat-
ed to the production of Long Island mer-
lot, and continues a centuries-old tradi-
tion of winemaking for the Petrocelli
Family that incorporates both New
World advances and Old World tradi-
tions to produce wine ref lecting both
the terroir and spirit of a great Bordeaux
chateau. 39390 Main Rd., Peconic,
631.765.1100, raphaelwine.com
Sherwood House Vineyards
Since l996, committed to the production
of world-class wines using only estate-
grown vinifera grapes. “There’s very little
nature and man can do in true harmo-
ny,” says owner Dr. Charles Smithen. “A
vineyard is one of those things.” 2600
Oregon Rd., Mattituck, 212.828.3426,
sherwoodhousevineyards.com
Shinn Estate Vineyards
This Mattituck vineyard and winery
believes that a sustainable approach to
growing wine and natural techniques
in the cellar result in wines that ref lect
both the land and the individual grow-
ing seasons. Their biologically intensive
viticulture allows the vines to produce
balanced and complex wines vintage after
vintage. 2000 Oregon Road Mattituck,
631.804.0367, shinnestatevineyards.com
Sparkling Pointe
Sparkling Pointe’s award-winning spar-
kling wines are executed with artistry
and f inesse in the traditional French
Méthode Champenoise. We like to call
it “romance in a bottle.” 631.765.0200,
sparklingpointe.com
Wölffer Estate Vineyard
Founded in 1987, Wölffer Estate has become
a leader in the wine industry. The East Coast
climate, similar to Bordeaux, combined with
the terroir and the maritime influence, make
the Hamptons an outstanding region for
growing wines. Surrounded by 55 acres of
rolling hills planted with vines, the neatly trel-
lised vineyard provides a magnificent setting
for wine tastings and social events. 139 Sagg
Rd., Sagaponack, 631.537.5106, wolffer.com
Please visit these members of the
Long Island Wine Council.
Ackerly Pond Vineyards
631.765.6861, ackerlypondvineyards.com
Baiting Hollow Farm Vineyard
631.369.0100, baitinghollowfarmvineyard.com
Bedell Cellars
631.734.7537, bedellcellars.com
Bella Vita Vineyard
631.734.8282, bellavitavineyard.com
Bouké Wines
877.877.0527, boukewines.com
Castello di Borghese Vineyard & Winery
631.734.5111, castellodiborghese.com
Channing Daughters Winery
631.537.7224, channingdaughters.com
Christiano Family Vineyards
christianowines.com
Clovis Point
631.722.4222, clovispointwines.com
Comtesse Thérèse
631.871.9194, comtessetherese.com
Corey Creek Vineyards
631.765.4168, coreycreek.com
Croteaux Vineyards
631.765.6099, croteaux.com
Diliberto Winery
631.722.3416, dilibertowinery.com
Duck Walk Vineyards
631.726.7555, duckwalk.com
Duck Walk Vineyards North
631.765.3500, duckwalk.com
Harbes Family Farm & Vineyard
631.298.WINE(9463),
harbesfamilyfarm.com
Jamesport Vineyards
631.722.5256, jamesportwines.com
Jason’s Vineyard
631.238.5801, jasonsvineyard.com
Laurel Lake Vineyards
631.298.1420, llwines.com
Lieb Family Cellars
631.298.1942, liebcellars.com
Long Island Meadery
631.285.7469, limeadery.com
Loughlin Vineyards
631.589.0027, loughlinvineyard.com
Macari Vineyards & Winery
631.298.0100, macariwines.com
Martha Clara Vineyards
631.298.0075, marthaclaravineyards.com
Mattebella Vineyards
888.628.8323, mattebellavineyards.com
McCall Vineyards
404.274.2809, mccallwines.com
Onabay Vineyard
917.715.0605, onabayvineyards.com
One Woman Vineyards
631.765.1200, onewomanwines.com
Osprey’s Dominion Vineyards
631.765.6188, ospreysdominion.com
Palmer Vineyards
631.722.WINE, palmervineyards.com
Peconic Bay Winery
631.734.7361, peconicbaywinery.com
Pellegrini Vineyards
631.734.4111, pellegrinivineyards.com
Pindar Vineyards
631.734.6200, pindar.net
Pugliese Vineyards
631.734.4057, pugliesevineyards.com
Raphael
631.765.1100, raphaelwine.com
Roanoke Vineyards
631.727.4161, roanokevineyards.com
Scarola Vineyards
631.335.4199, scarolavineyards.com
Sherwood House Vineyards
631.779.2817, sherwoodhousevineyards.com
Shinn Estate Vineyards
631.804.0367, shinnestatevineyards.com
Sparkling Pointe
631.765.0200, sparklingpointe.com
Suhru Wines
631.603.8127, suhruwines.com
The Grapes of Roth
631.725.7999, thegrapesofroth.com
edibleeastend.com 77
A TWIN PEAKS GEEKS PRODUCTION
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631.723.3660
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helps you Þnd the right apples
at the farmerÕs market. The
professionals at GeekHampton
willhelpyouÞndtherightMac.
We know
Apples
The Old Field Vineyards
631.765.0004, theoldfield.com
Vineyard 48
631.734.5200, vineyard48winery.com
Waters Crest Winery
631-734-5065, waterscrestwinery.com
Wölffer Estate
631.537.5106, wolffer.com
WINE SHOPS
Cavaniola’s Cellar
This wine shop in the historic Umbrella
building offers a wide selection of limit-
ed-run Old World wines designed to go
with the cheese and other offerings from
Cavaniola’s Gourmet and Cavaniola’s
Kitchen next door. 89 Division St., Sag
Harbor, 631.725.2930, cavaniola.com
Domaine Franey
This East Hampton wine shop, run by the
son of famed author and chef Pierre Franey,
specializes in wines from Burgundy and caters
to wine enthusiasts, including those looking
for well-priced bottles or the perfect meal
pairing. 459 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton,
631.324.0906, domainefraney.com
Michael’s Wines & Spirits
Lowest prices around! The knowledge-
able staff will help you select from the
most extensive inventory of wines and
champagnes on the East End, including
the best selection of Long Island wines at
competitive prices. Delivery available.
802 Main St., Riverhead, 631.727.7410
WINE BARS
A Mano
This osteria and wine bar in Mattituck features
local farmers, cheesemakers, fishers and winer-
ies, as well as Italian varietals from American and
Italian wineries. 13550 Main Rd, Mattituck,
631.298.4800, amanorestaurant.com
SPIRITS
Hendrick’s Gin
With delightful infusions of cucumber
and rose, one would be a fool to forgo
the unusually delicious Hendrick’s Gin!
Simply put, no other gin tastes like
Hendrick’s because no other gin is made
like Hendrick’s. hendricksgin.com
ORGANIC FOOD STORES
The Juicy Naam
An oasis of organic juices, smoothies
and freshly prepared live food. Stop by
for organic local produce, a full menu of
the best juices, snacks, salads, raw soups
and nori rolls, for takeout or catering, as
well as daily Naam Yoga and a full range
of healing bodywork. We also offer fully
customized private cleanses and juice fasts
that will detox and rejuvenate you from the
inside out, and a wonderful array of visiting
healers and health experts throughout the
summer. 27 Race Ln., East Hampton and
51 Division Street/Route 114, Sag Harbor.
New York City: 1295 Madison Ave. The
Wales Hotel; 876-6000, thejuicynaam.us
The Market
An organic food market with gourmet items,
delivery, catering and customized meal
preparation, the Market offers café, indoor/
outdoor dining right on Front Street. Fresh
organic produce, vitamins, bulk grains,
pasta, nuts, personal care, wheat-free. Café
offers delicious organic and vegetarian
soups, salads, sandwiches and juices. 130
Front St., Greenport, 631.477.8803
Provisions Natural Foods
Market & Cafe
Committed to serving healthy food,
Provisions offers a snug retreat for a
memorable organic lunch. Café is open
for breakfast and lunch, serving chicken
and veggie wraps, omelets, marinated
brown rice, soups and homemade muf-
fins and corn bread, a juice and smooth-
ie bar, and a full line of “Earth Friendly”
groceries, cosmetics, books, gifts and
organic produce. Bay and Division St.,
Sag Harbor, 725.3636
NATURAL PRODUCTS
Shaklee
For over 50 years, generations of families
have counted on us to do what no other
company can do quite like Shaklee—
make products that are naturally safe
AND proven effective. Every product
that goes into ever y Shaklee bottle
is designed to improve health, work
without compromi se and be gentle
on the planet. 631.236.2670. green-
[email protected]. BeTheChange.
MyShaklee.com
PUBLIC RELATIONS
WordHampton Public Relations
Established in 1992, award-winning
WordHampton represents signature hos-
pitality, real estate and lifestyle businesses
from the East End to New York City,
building client reputations and revenues
through strategic and creative think-
ing, deep media relationships, social
media savvy and client partnering. 512
Three Mile Harbor Rd., East Hampton,
631.329.0050, wordhampton.com
CATERERS AND CHEFS
Art of Eating
This community-focused and charity-
driven caterer and events planner has
extensive connections with local farm-
ers, fishers and food makers, and will
help you invite guests with the confi-
dence that they will thoroughly enjoy the
food, setting and entire event experience.
631.267.2411, hamptonsartofeating.com
Need a Chef
Your private chef for a day. Local afford-
able, established private chef. Peter
Cooke a 1991 CIA grad a lifelong resi-
dent of the East End, farm-to-table chef.
Free menu planning.Shop, cook, clean.
631.578.0798, needachef.com
REAL ESTATE
Corcoran
For over 30 years, exemplifying a stead-
fast commitment to service, creativity and
hard work. NYC’s largest residential real
estate firm, Corcoran has offices through-
out the East End to help you find your
home. Live who you are. 290 Main St.,
Sag Harbor, 725.4926, corcoran.com
Town And Country Real Estate
Offering personalized service and bou-
tique f lexibility, Nicholas J. Planamento
& Town And Countr y Real Estate
focuses on establishing relationships
through honesty and quality service
to buyers and sellers. As a member of
“Who’s Who in Luxury Real Estate,”
Nicholas J. Planamento & Town And
Country Real Estate enjoys a referral
network with the finest brokers glob-
ally. 631.298.0600 or 631.948.0143,
[email protected]
LANDSCAPE DESIGN AND
ENVIRONMENTAL SERVICES
Barry Block Landscape Design &
Contracting Inc.
Award-winning, formally trained design/
build firm providing landscape services
from design concept to complete instal-
lation. All projects receive personal atten-
tion and unique designs to fit your life-
style, while offering a variety of special-
ized solutions using ecologically sound
and organic techniques. 631.874.3430,
barryblock.com, [email protected]
Fort Pond Native Plants
A local garden center with a mission to pro-
mote the use and appreciation of native plants
for home landscapes. Employing organic
maintenance products as well as sound envi-
ronmental approaches. 26 S. Embassy St.,
Montauk, 631.668.6452, nativeplants.net
Muse Design Inc.
Offering residential and corporate cli-
ents inspired environmental planning.
“Weaving highly functional land use into
natural spaces full of emotion and won-
der.” Whether a rain garden or a natural-
ly filtered pool design, native plantings or
natural resource management planning,
Muse Design blends the natural and the
manmade into a beautiful celebration of
nature. 631.725.8725, thomasmuse.com
Playful Gardens
We design and build natural play-spaces
for children and provide instruction in
the garden. Playful Gardens specializes in
vegetables, flowers and herbs and custom-
raised planters. myplayfulgarden.com
TRANSPORTATION
AND TOURS
Hampton Jitney
Operating 365 days a year bet ween
the South and North Forks and Metro
NY, including new service to Brooklyn,
Hampton Jitney is your fastest way to
and from the City and NY airports.
Offering limousines, charters and tours
throughout the Northeast and Canada.
283.4600, hamptonjitney.com
HEALTH, BEAUTY
AND WELLNESS
The Body Shop
The first yoga and massage studio on the
East End is located above Eileen Fisher in
the heart of East Hampton Village. The
Body Shop, “the most beautiful yoga space
in the Hamptons,” offers classes in yoga,
Pilates, cardio and dance, as well as private
yoga and massage therapy. 26 Newtown
Ln., East Hampton; 631.324.6440; the-
bodyshopeasthampton.com
Gil Ferrer Salon
Gil Ferrer hair care services include cut-
ting, color, Japanese hair straightening,
thermal-curl, hair treatments, ref lexol-
ogy and nail and skin care. Salon is
directed by renowned Brazilian stylist
Vincent Da Silva. In the City, visit their
f lower-filled oasis on Madison Avenue.
Bridgehampton Commons, Montauk
Hwy., Bridgehampton, 537.5805, vin-
centferrer.com, and 21 E. 74 St., NYC,
212.535.3543, gilferrersalon.com
Naturopathica Holistic Health Spa
Pure Beauty Lounge
Much more than a product line, a destina-
tion point for embracing the pure essentials
of well-being. Skin care, body treatments,
massage and health through natural thera-
pies. Red Horse Plaza, 74 Montauk Hwy.,
East Hampton, 329.2525, naturopathica.
com/ourspa.html
Southampton Osteopathy
Dr. Stephen Braun DO, specializing in
Osteopathy, and associates are welcoming
new patients. They offer compassionate,
integrative, personal, empowering medi-
cine, specializing in restoration of your body’s
healthy structure and optimal function after
trauma, injury, or pain. 349 Meeting House
Ln., Southampton, shosteo.com
Yoga Shanti
A full-time, year-round, East End yoga stu-
dio, Yoga Shanti offers classes to all levels in a
range of styles. A recent review called Shanti
“the Hamptons yoga studio. You will never
waste your time...The teachers are always
amazing.” 23 Washington St., Sag Harbor,
725.6424, yogashanti.com
CONSTRUCTION,
RESTORATION, DESIGN
Berg Design Architects
A multi-faceted firm dedicated to sus-
tainable modern residences, commercial
architecture, interior design, and furniture.
Client collaboration, green technology and
environmentally low impact designs lead to
unique architectural solutions with warm,
comfortable surroundings. 917.328.3905,
88 Old Stone Hwy., East Hampton, berg-
designarchitects.com.
Environment East
Consistent attention to detail has earned the
trust of our customers and for over thirty
years they have recommended us to their
friends and neighbors as one of the finest
construction companies on the east end.
Their friendly and professional staff will
be glad to take a look at your house and
advise you on maintenance, expansion or
complete restoration. They offer a full spec-
trum of services from design to permits,
roofs to decks and everything in between.
631.734.7474/7400, environmenteast.com
East End Awning
Owners Carol and Bill Duffy have been
serving the Hamptons and the entire East
End of Long Island for over 12 years.
Available seven days a week for an in-home
estimate. They’ll bring the showroom to
you. 631.287.6080; eastendawning.com.
EDUCATION AND
COMMUNITY
Hayground School
An open communit y school where
unproductive conventions are replaced
by new ways of teaching and learning.
With the apprenticeship program for
older youth, rich and varied programs
in “Jeff ’s Kitchen,” visiting artists and
inspiring math, reading, music, art and
science, Hayground remains true to its
mission. 537.7068, hayground.org
Ross School
Develop new skills or follow a passion at
Ross School, offering a wide selection of
year-round classes, workshops and camps
for kids, teens and adults, including classes
in art, athletics, farm care, gymnastics,
music, performance, tennis, humanities,
media, wellness, nutrition, and languages,
as well as courses in college preparation and
ESL. 18 Goodfriend Drive, East Hampton,
631.907.5555 or ross.org/community
78 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
Slow Food East End Chapter
The mission of the East End Chapter of
Slow Food is to spread the word about the
advantages (health, economic, environ-
mental, taste!) of eating locally and sea-
sonally, and connect those interested with
the national and international Slow Food
Movement. Slow Food is about good, clean
and fair food. Currently our local chapter
has over 1,000 on our email newsletter list.
Local Leaders: Miche Bacher, Noah Bacher,
Leslie Rose Close, Judiann C Fayyaz, Bryan
Futerman, Tullia Limarzi, Ursula Massoud,
Mary Morgan, Kate Plumb, Alexandra Sofis.
Follow us on facebook: Slow Food East End.
Suffolk County Community College
Culinary School & Bakers Workshop
With campuses in Brentwood, Selden,
Sayville and Riverhead, Suffolk County
Community College is NY’s largest com-
munity college. SCCC is renowned for
its nationally recognized faculty, small
classes and affordable tuition. Students
may choose from more than 60 programs
of study, including the new world-class
culinary program and Bakers Workshop
in Riverhead. 20 E. Main St., Riverhead,
548.3750, sunysuffolk.edu
Twin Peeks Geeks
Fast, friendly, experienced, dependable,
affordable, on-site Macintosh service at your
home or business in the Hamptons and
Manhattan. Specializing in hookups, trouble-
shooting; software installation, upgrades and
instruction; Internet installation, Photoshop
instruction and scanning instruction.
631.723.3660, twinpeeksgeeks.com
ENVIRONMENTAL AND
FARM ORGANIZATIONS
Long Island Farm Bureau
Providing local, grassroots regional lead-
ership for the L.I. agricultural commu-
nity to preserve our remaining open land,
beautiful vistas and the 300-year legacy
of rural Long Island. 104 Edwards Ave.,
Calverton, 727.3777, lifb.com
Long Island Wine Council
Founded in 1989, this industry association
is dedicated to achieving recognition for
Long Island as a premium wine-producing
region. Visit its Web site to plan your visit
to Long Island wine country. PO Box 74,
Peconic, 631.477.8493, liwines.com
Peconic Land Trust
The Hamptons, the East End, Peconic,
North Fork, South Fork, Eastern Suffolk...
however you identify the special place
that is Eastern Long Island, you’ll want
to know more about Peconic Land Trust’s
work with landowners to protect our sce-
nic vistas, water quality and productive
farmland. PO Box 1776, Southampton,
283.3195, peconiclandtrust.org
Slow Food East End Convivium
Founded in 2003, this local chapter of
the international movement to defend
regional food traditions boasts 600
enthusiasts who have launched t wo
school programs. Sponsors of the Sag
Harbor and East Hampton Farmers
Markets. slowfoodlongisland.org
FOOD BLOGS
Let There Be Bite
Life is too short for bad food, and LTBB
finds the best of it: cold-pressed California
olive oil, slow-dried Italian pasta, artisanal
chocolate toffee. Some chili pepper in our
blog, too! [email protected];
LetThereBeBite.com
ART SUPPLIES
Golden Eagle
This East Hampton shop for those who “live
local and paint local” offers a wine range of
art materials, as well as year-round art classes
including oil painting, mixed media, sculpture,
encaustic and kids’ classes. 14 Gingerbread
Ln., East Hampton, 631.324.0603
CLOTHING, JEWELRY
AND GIFTS
A. J. Dak Etc.
An array of objects old and new, artwork,
accessories, flowers (dried and faux, pot-
ted and tropical), jewelry, soaps and can-
dles. Gifts and things in general to whet
your fancy. Fri.–Mon. 11–5 and by appt.
1240 Village Ln., Orient; 631.323.0048
Eileen Fisher
Clothing that invites every woman to
express her own style. 800.445.1603,
eileenfisher.com
The Elegant Setting
The Elegant Setti ng is i nspi red by
nostalgia for a time when entertaining
was an art. The Main Street shop in
Southampton offers an exquisite col-
lection of tabletop as well as home and
gift items, specializing in custom mono-
gramming. 31 Main St., Southampton,
631.283.4747, theelegantsetting.com
Lifestyle
Contemporary Fashion Apparel and
Accessories for Women + Men. The
best edit on what’s new in fashion,
luxur y basics, deni m and accesso-
ries. Let our amazing staff navigate and
style your wardrobe. Open 7 days year-
round! 127 Main Street, Sag Harbor;
631.725.1667; shopatlifestyle.com
COMPUTER & TECH SUPPORT
GEEKHAMPTON
Fast, friendly, experienced, dependable,
affordable on-site Macintosh service at
your home or business on the East End, or
our store. Specializing in hookups, trouble-
shooting; software installation, upgrades
and instruction for your computer, iPhone
or iPod. 154 W. Montauk Hwy., Hampton
Bays, 631.723.3660, geekhampton.com
LEGAL SERVICES
Jason Foscolo LLC
The only law firm on Long Island dedi-
cated to agricultural and food law, which
regulates how food is grown, processed,
marketed and sold, we can help you to
maximize profits and navigate food law
complexities, form cooperatives, find the
right crop insurance, understand and uti-
lize USDA cost-share programs, make the
most of value-added processing equipment,
apply for federal conservation benefits and
much more. New and beginning farmers
welcome. 479.799.7035; jasonfoscolo.com
edibleeastend.com 79
edible east end:
NOW IN 3-D.
Well, sort of.
New shows air every Friday and Sunday. Tune in on NY1 and NY1.com.
Each week, our editors
explore the behind-the-
scene food and drink
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From Manhattan to
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mix drinks at Lower East
Side speakeasies, rake
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sip suds at Brooklyn beer
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80 edible EAST END WINTER 2012
Te East End is in fact edible, with its countless producers of fresh-
grown fruits and vegetables and an abundance of agriculture at its
residents’ ﬁngertips. Te main roads of our towns are not lined with
fast-food joints, but rather farm stands and pick-your-own pur-
veyors. We are very fortunate. But, not more than a hundred or so
miles from Long Island’s East End lie areas that have literally been
deemed “food deserts”: low-income parts of New York City and its
surrounding boroughs, where residents have little if any source of
such nourishing ingredients to feed themselves and their families.
It was partly the alarming rate of obesity within these neighbor-
hoods that prompted New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg
to work with the City Council to launch the NYC Green Cart Ini-
tiative in 2008, supported by a $1.5 million grant from the Laurie
M. Tisch Illumination Fund. While Manhattanites will be familiar
with the umbrella-topped displays of apples, bananas, potatoes and
other produce on street corners much of the year, the initiative set
out to double and triple the number of these mobile carts and push
them into speciﬁc low-income locations in outer boroughs of the
city where fresh produce options are scarce. Tis program is also the
subject matter of Te Apple Pushers, a documentary ﬁlm by Mary
Muzzio, narrated by Edward Norton, that made its world premiere
at this year’s Hamptons International Film Festival.
And while the actual apple pushers themselves—about 800 ven-
dors across the ﬁve boroughs who are primarily ﬁrst-generation im-
migrants, much like the Jewish, Italian and other ethnic produce ped-
dlers of previous New York eras—worked on a Sunday afternoon in
October, 100 miles or so away a crowd of about 150 gathered in East
Hampton’s United Artists Teater to watch their story unfold. “Te
goal of this ﬁlm is twofold” explains Muzzio, “First, to inspire munici-
palities to think creatively about diﬀerent ways to address the problems
of obesity and food deserts. Te other goal, which became apparent to
me while making the ﬁlm, is to inspire other philanthropists to con-
sider public-private partnerships within their own cities, like Laurie
[Tisch] did through her support of the Green Cart Initiative.”
Muzzio is proud to report, “In New York the Green Cart Ini-
tiative is one of several strategies underway in the ﬁght against
obesity and food deserts. However, the concept of mobile vending
is catching on, and several cities are working on developing their
own ‘Green Cart’ initiatives.”
For more information on Te Apple Pushers visit theapplepushers.com.
Courtney MacGinley has a passion for good food and great ﬁlms. She
writes from her home in Coram.
AFTERTASTE
THE APPLE PUSHERS
BY COURTNEY MACGINLEY
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