Fashion
Content
Fashion
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search For other uses, see Fashion (disambiguation).
In Following the Fashion (1794), James Gillray caricatured a figure flattered by the shortbodiced gowns then in fashion, contrasting it with an imitator whose figure is not flattered. Fashion, a general term for a currently popular style or practice, especially in clothing, foot wear or accessories. Fashion references to anything that is the current trend in look and dress up of a person. The more technical term, costume, has become so linked in the public eye with the term "fashion" that the more general term "costume" has in popular use mostly been relegated to special senses like fancy dress or masquerade wear, while the term "fashion" means clothing generally, and the study of it. For a broad cross-cultural look at clothing and its place in society, refer to the entries for clothing, costume and fabrics. The remainder of this article deals with clothing fashions in the Western world.[1]
Contents
[hide]
y y y y y y y y
1 Clothing fashions 2 Fashion industry 3 Media 4 Intellectual property 5 See also 6 References 7 Further reading 8 External links
[edit] Clothing fashions
2008 runway show For detailed historical articles by period, see History of Western fashion. Early Western travelers, whether to Persia, Turkey or China frequently remark on the absence of changes in fashion there, and observers from these other cultures comment on the unseemly pace of Western fashion, which many felt suggested an instability and lack of order in Western culture. The Japanese Shogun's secretary boasted (not completely accurately) to a Spanish visitor in 1609 that Japanese clothing had not changed in over a thousand years.[2] However in Ming China, for example, there is considerable evidence for rapidly changing fashions in Chinese clothing.[3] Changes in costume often took place at times of economic or social change (such as in ancient Rome and the medieval Caliphate), but then a long period without major changes followed. This occurred in Moorish Spain from the 8th century, when the famous musician Ziryab introduced sophisticated clothing styles based on seasonal and daily timings from his native Baghdad and his own inspiration to Córdoba, Spain.[4][5] Similar changes in fashion occurred in the Middle East from the 11th century, following the arrival of the Turks who introduced clothing styles from Central Asia and the Far East.[6] The beginnings of the habit in Europe of continual and increasingly rapid change in clothing styles can be fairly reliably dated to the middle of the 14th century, to which historians including James Laver and Fernand Braudel date the start of Western fashion in clothing.[7][8] The most dramatic manifestation was a sudden drastic shortening and tightening of the male over-garment, from calf-length to barely covering the buttocks, sometimes accompanied with stuffing on the chest to look bigger. This created the distinctive Western male outline of a tailored top worn over leggings or trousers.
Marie Antoinette was a fashion icon The pace of change accelerated considerably in the following century, and women and men's fashion, especially in the dressing and adorning of the hair, became equally complex and changing. Art historians are therefore able to use fashion in dating images with increasing confidence and precision, often within five years in the case of 15th century images. Initially changes in fashion led to a fragmentation of what had previously been very similar styles of dressing across the upper classes of Europe, and the development of distinctive national styles. These remained very different until a counter-movement in the 17th to 18th centuries imposed similar styles once again, mostly originating from Ancien Régime France.[9] Though the rich usually led fashion, the increasing affluence of early modern Europe led to the bourgeoisie and even peasants following trends at a distance sometimes uncomfortably close for the elites - a factor Braudel regards as one of the main motors of changing fashion.[10]
Albrecht Dürer's drawing contrasts a well turned out bourgeoisie from Nuremberg (left) with her counterpart from Venice. The Venetian lady's high chopines make her taller Ten 16th century portraits of German or Italian gentlemen may show ten entirely different hats, and at this period national differences were at their most pronounced, as Albrecht Dürer recorded in his actual or composite contrast of Nuremberg and Venetian fashions at the close of the 15th century (illustration, right). The "Spanish style" of the end of the century began the move back to synchronicity among upper-class Europeans, and after a struggle in the mid 17th century, French styles decisively took over leadership, a process completed in the 18th century.[11] Though colors and patterns of textiles changed from year to year,[12] the cut of a gentleman's coat and the length of his waistcoat, or the pattern to which a lady's dress was cut changed more slowly. Men's fashions largely derived from military models, and changes in a European male silhouette are galvanized in theatres of European war, where gentleman officers had opportunities to make notes of foreign styles: an example is the "Steinkirk" cravat or necktie. The pace of change picked up in the 1780s with the increased publication of French engravings that showed the latest Paris styles; though there had been distribution of dressed dolls from France as patterns since the 16th century, and Abraham Bosse had produced engravings of fashion from the 1620s. By 1800, all Western Europeans were dressing alike (or thought they were): local variation became first a sign of provincial culture, and then a badge of the conservative peasant.[13] Although tailors and dressmakers were no doubt responsible for many innovations before, and the textile industry certainly led many trends, the history of fashion design is normally taken to date from 1858, when the English-born Charles Frederick Worth opened the first true haute couture house in Paris. Since then the professional designer has become a progressively more dominant figure, despite the origins of many fashions in street fashion. For women the flapper
styles of the 1920s marked the most major alteration in styles for several centuries, with a drastic shortening of skirt lengths, and much looser-fitting clothes; with occasional revivals of long skirts forms of the shorter length have remained dominant ever since. The four major current fashion capitals are acknowledged to be Milan, New York City, Paris, and London. Fashion weeks are held in these cities, where designers exhibit their new clothing collections to audiences, and which are all headquarters to the greatest fashion companies and are renowned for their major influence on global fashion. Modern Westerners have a wide choice available in the selection of their clothes. What a person chooses to wear can reflect that person's personality or likes. When people who have cultural status start to wear new or different clothes a fashion trend may start. People who like or respect them may start to wear clothes of a similar style. Fashions may vary considerably within a society according to age, social class, generation, occupation, and geography as well as over time. If, for example, an older person dresses according to the fashion of young people, he or she may look ridiculous in the eyes of both young and older people. The terms 'fashionista' or fashion victim refer to someone who slavishly follows the current fashions. One can regard the system of sporting various fashions as a fashion language incorporating various fashion statements using a grammar of fashion. (Compare some of the work of Roland Barthes.)
[edit] Fashion industry
The fashion industry is a product of the modern age. Prior to the mid-19th century, most clothing was custom made. It was handmade for individuals, either as home production or on order from dressmakers and tailors. By the beginning of the 20th century²with the rise of new technologies such as the sewing machine, the rise of global capitalism and the development of the factory system of production, and the proliferation of retail outlets such as department stores²clothing had increasingly come to be mass-produced in standard sizes and sold at fixed prices. Although the fashion industry developed first in Europe and America, today it is an international and highly globalized industry, with clothing often designed in one country, manufactured in another, and sold world-wide. For example, an American fashion company might source fabric in China and have the clothes manufactured in Vietnam, finished in Italy, and shipped to a warehouse in the United States for distribution to retail outlets internationally. The fashion industry has long been one of the largest employers in the United States, and it remains so in the 21st century. However, employment declined considerably as production increasingly moved overseas, especially to China. Because data on the fashion industry typically are reported for national economies and expressed in terms of the industry¶s many separate sectors, aggregate figures for world production of textiles and clothing are difficult to obtain. However, by any measure, the industry accounts for a significant share of world economic output. The fashion industry consists of four levels: the production of raw materials, principally fibres and textiles but also leather and fur; the production of fashion goods by designers, manufacturers, contractors, and others; retail sales; and various forms of advertising and
promotion. These levels consist of many separate but interdependent sectors, all of which are devoted to the goal of satisfying consumer demand for apparel under conditions that enable participants in the industry to operate at a profit. [14]
[edit] Media
Fashion shot from 2006 An important part of fashion is fashion journalism. Editorial critique, guidelines and commentary can be found in magazines, newspapers, on television, fashion websites, social networks and in fashion blogs. At the beginning of the 20th century, fashion magazines began to include photographs of various fashion designs and became even more influential on people than in the past. In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public clothing taste. Talented illustrators drew exquisite fashion plates for the publications which covered the most recent developments in fashion and beauty. Perhaps the most famous of these magazines was La Gazette du Bon Ton which was founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and regularly published until 1925 (with the exception of the war years). Vogue, founded in the US in 1892, has been the longest-lasting and most successful of the hundreds of fashion magazines that have come and gone. Increasing affluence after World War II and, most importantly, the advent of cheap colour printing in the 1960s led to a huge boost in its sales, and heavy coverage of fashion in mainstream women's magazines - followed by men's magazines from the 1990s. Haute couture designers followed the trend by starting the ready-towear and perfume lines, heavily advertised in the magazines, that now dwarf their original couture businesses. Television coverage began in the 1950s with small fashion features. In the 1960s and 1970s, fashion segments on various entertainment shows became more frequent, and by the 1980s, dedicated fashion shows like Fashion-television started to appear. Despite television and increasing internet coverage, including fashion blogs, press coverage remains the most important form of publicity in the eyes of the fashion industry.
However, over the past several years, fashion websites have developed that merge traditional editorial writing with user-generated content. New magazines like iFashion Network, and Runway Magazine, led by Nole Marin from America's Next Top Model, have begun to dominate the digital market with digital copies for computers, iPhones and iPads. A few days after the 2010 Fall Fashion Week in New York City came to a close, The New Islander's Fashion Editor, Genevieve Tax, criticized the fashion industry for running on a seasonal schedule of its own, largely at the expense of real-world consumers. "Because designers release their fall collections in the spring and their spring collections in the fall, fashion magazines such as Vogue always and only look forward to the upcoming season, promoting parkas come September while issuing reviews on shorts in January," she writes. "Savvy shoppers, consequently, have been conditioned to be extremely, perhaps impractically, farsighted with their buying."[15]
[edit] Intellectual property
Within the fashion industry, intellectual property is not enforced as it is within the film industry and music industry. To "take inspiration" from others' designs contributes to the fashion industry's ability to establish clothing trends. For the past few years, WGSN has been a dominant source of fashion news and forecasts in steering fashion brands worldwide to be "inspired" by one another. Enticing consumers to buy clothing by establishing new trends is, some have argued, a key component of the industry's success. Intellectual property rules that interfere with the process of trend-making would, on this view, be counter-productive. In contrast, it is often argued that the blatant theft of new ideas, unique designs, and design details by larger companies is what often contributes to the failure of many smaller or independent design companies. In 2005, the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) held a conference calling for stricter intellectual property enforcement within the fashion industry to better protect small and medium businesses and promote competitiveness within the textile and clothing industries
Fashion journalism
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search
Journalism
News · Writing style Ethics · Objectivity Values · Attribution Defamation
Editorial independence Journalism school List of journalism articles
Areas
Arts · Business Entertainment Environment Fashion · Medicine Politics · Science Sports · Technical Trade · Traffic Weather · World
Genres
Advocacy · Broadcast Citizen · Civic Collaborative · Community Database · Gonzo Investigative · Literary Muckraking · Narrative "New Journalism" Non-profit journalism Online · Opinion Peace · Photojournalism Visual · Watchdog
Social impact
Fourth Estate Freedom of the press
Infotainment · Media bias Public relations Yellow journalism
News media
Newspapers · Magazines News agencies Alternative media
Roles
Journalist · Reporter Editor · Columnist Copy editor Meteorologist News presenter Photographer Political commentator
Category: Journalism
vde
Fashion journalism is an umbrella term used to describe all aspects of published fashion media. It includes fashion writers, fashion critics or fashion reporters. The most obvious examples of fashion journalism are the fashion features in magazines and newspapers, but the term also includes books about fashion, fashion related reports on television as well as online fashion magazines, websites and blogs. Since pieces more often than not deal with "tendencies" and "trends", which are subjective by nature, and due to a sometimes tenuous relation with facts, the term "journalism" is used as a moniker, but does not carry the overall procedural and deontological aspects of professional journalism. The work of a fashion journalist can be quite varied. Typical work includes writing or editing articles, or helping to formulate and style a fashion shoot. A fashion journalist typically spends a lot of time researching and/or conducting interviews and it is essential that he or she has good
contacts with people in the fashion industry, including photographers, designers, and public relations specialists. Fashion journalists are either employed full time by a publication or are employed on a freelance basis. The career has grown in importance in other media with the release of films such as The Devil Wears Prada and Confessions of a Shopaholic, and television series such as Ugly Betty.
[edit] Fashion journalism and the internet
About half a year subsequent to pioneer fashion resource named Fashion Net's launch at the outset of 1995 came American Fashionmall and French ELLE. Fashion Live produced Internet's first live fashion webcast of Yves Saint Laurent's runway show in 1996. CNN Style and Hint Magazine arrived in 1998. The following year saw the rise and fall of Boo.com as the company burned through $135 million in 18 months.[1] Style.com, the online umbrella for Vogue and W, started in 2000. Style.com is not a journalistic website but a resource to show the complete collections of selected fashion shows (among the most notorious brands) each season. Following a tiff in 2007, W left Style.com making it the online home for Vogue alone. In the late 2000, Beauty Flow magazine flourished with exclusive content for editorials, portraits and reports. Today, fashion blogs, and other such fashion portals such as http://coutureinthecity.com, http://glamour.com, and http://ifashionnetwork.com, are an increasing force in the fashion industry. Against this trend in August 2006 Westfield Group the world's largest mall and shopping centre owner has unveiled a Webzine titled What's What identifying popular fashion trends with a view to indirectly promote the products available in their tenants stores. The financial funding for such an undertaking is unique as it does not rely on subscriptions or advertising but entirely on advertorials.
My Fashion-Ethiopia¶s New Fashion and Life Style Magazine
By arefe
Take a look at the newly launched Ethiopia¶s life style magazine, My Fashion, and you¶ll come across as diverse issues as tons of fashionable pictures, helpful hints on modern hair dressing and eliminating body odor, interview with Ethiopian young music sensation, Zeritu Kebede, a Ferenj¶s observation on Ethiopian¶s way of eating with hands and even what the Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Ethiopian Airlines day look like The stark contrasts between pictures of scantily clad dressed young women and a number of articles by serious writers seem odd, but purposeful. It is intended to be inclusive of and welcoming to all people. µIt is not all about clothes; it¶s got a whole lot about other stuff that is not just about image. It¶s got issues on human relations, diet and fitness, sports and IT tips. So it¶s got something for
everybody. There¶s something for the fashion conscious, there¶s something for the serious minded¶ Selome Lagesse, Magazine¶s Managing Director told this writer. Selome, who states she is neither a model nor a fashion designer, had an all-time yearning to establish a fashion magazine. µWhile I was around 14 attending high school in American Mission, I had developed a passion for fashion. The senior girls used to bring various magazines like Vogue and I used to enjoy looking at the glossy pages. So My Fashion is a dream come true.¶ Written in English, on all-color out and glossy paper My Fashion is aimed at a relatively privileged Addis Women and men and it already proved to have tremendous appeal to such audience. Their debut issues managed to have 5,000 copies sales. While western fashion magazines such as Vogue and Cosmopolitan are available in Addis, they are expensive and sometimes hard for Ethiopia women to identify with. Selome says that My Fashion is an entertaining Magazine aimed at showcasing Ethiopian fashion and brining Ethiopian women close to the world without losing their cultural heritage. Asked if there is anything called Ethiopia fashion, Selome shot back smilingly, µWhy not? We have beautiful tilet, dresses, traditional fabric and embroidery. Ethiopia is one of the few countries in touch with its handcrafted techniques, unique hair styling and diverse cultural heritage.¶ The magazine captures the flavor of a middle class Addisers and uses models from that setting to give the fashion spread an authentic feel and a distinctive look. µWe want to feature many designers in each edition, so that we would appeal to the test of everybody. In the first issue we used the shops like Miki¶s, Lady Shop that bring in stylish clothes, in the second issue we have decided to give local designers, the Ras Africa brand designer, Osman and the Dohann brand designer Hanna their chance. So just in that respect, readers will have a very rich sense of fashion that can appeal to different people in the country.¶ says Selome. Asked what some of the challenges involved in doing a magazine like My Fashion, she said that the first challenge the cost associated with printing. ³Printing a glossy and art-paper magazine is very expensive, especially when it is printed abroad. While the production cost is around 38 Birr, we are selling it only with 10 Birr. So we are putting high investment. But advertisement will come as people get to know it and be confident in the quality or print, content and quality of editorial. Asked what people¶s reaction was, the Managing Director says µ People loved the magazines. The replies we have received so far are heartening. It is something that I¶m taking just in my stride because it¶s a lot of hard work and I feel very privileged to do it. We would improve by collecting people¶s feedback. We would be more resilient in whatever circumstances.¶
Selome has ambitious plans to change people¶s negative attitude towards models and to start a model institute so that Ethiopian models can be trained and then go on to take advantage of the business opportunities.¶ Some of the people we have approached to tell us what they think of the magazine have mixed reactions. Hikmu Nuru, a hijab wearing young Muslim, who works in a bookshop, says she liked that magazine and added, µI am glad now we have our fashion magazines. It is full of fashion items. The clothes are sometimes ugly. The movie and the music review are informative and fun.¶ Samson Wondimu, a young man who works for Save the Children, was critical and wondered if Ethiopia is becoming like India, where they have a version of everything western. It seems an imitation of the worst type µ, he insisted. Meron Belay, a secretary in a private firm was taken aback by the content. ³I saw the magazine, I felt a little bit uncomfortable in looking at it, and I was expecting it to be a little bit more conservative´. Selome says they respect and accept all the comments they get from the public and strives hard to make s My Fashion an East African magazine and eventually reach the continent
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search For other uses, see Fashion (disambiguation).
In Following the Fashion (1794), James Gillray caricatured a figure flattered by the shortbodiced gowns then in fashion, contrasting it with an imitator whose figure is not flattered. Fashion, a general term for a currently popular style or practice, especially in clothing, foot wear or accessories. Fashion references to anything that is the current trend in look and dress up of a person. The more technical term, costume, has become so linked in the public eye with the term "fashion" that the more general term "costume" has in popular use mostly been relegated to special senses like fancy dress or masquerade wear, while the term "fashion" means clothing generally, and the study of it. For a broad cross-cultural look at clothing and its place in society, refer to the entries for clothing, costume and fabrics. The remainder of this article deals with clothing fashions in the Western world.[1]
Contents
[hide]
y y y y y y y y
1 Clothing fashions 2 Fashion industry 3 Media 4 Intellectual property 5 See also 6 References 7 Further reading 8 External links
[edit] Clothing fashions
2008 runway show For detailed historical articles by period, see History of Western fashion. Early Western travelers, whether to Persia, Turkey or China frequently remark on the absence of changes in fashion there, and observers from these other cultures comment on the unseemly pace of Western fashion, which many felt suggested an instability and lack of order in Western culture. The Japanese Shogun's secretary boasted (not completely accurately) to a Spanish visitor in 1609 that Japanese clothing had not changed in over a thousand years.[2] However in Ming China, for example, there is considerable evidence for rapidly changing fashions in Chinese clothing.[3] Changes in costume often took place at times of economic or social change (such as in ancient Rome and the medieval Caliphate), but then a long period without major changes followed. This occurred in Moorish Spain from the 8th century, when the famous musician Ziryab introduced sophisticated clothing styles based on seasonal and daily timings from his native Baghdad and his own inspiration to Córdoba, Spain.[4][5] Similar changes in fashion occurred in the Middle East from the 11th century, following the arrival of the Turks who introduced clothing styles from Central Asia and the Far East.[6] The beginnings of the habit in Europe of continual and increasingly rapid change in clothing styles can be fairly reliably dated to the middle of the 14th century, to which historians including James Laver and Fernand Braudel date the start of Western fashion in clothing.[7][8] The most dramatic manifestation was a sudden drastic shortening and tightening of the male over-garment, from calf-length to barely covering the buttocks, sometimes accompanied with stuffing on the chest to look bigger. This created the distinctive Western male outline of a tailored top worn over leggings or trousers.
Marie Antoinette was a fashion icon The pace of change accelerated considerably in the following century, and women and men's fashion, especially in the dressing and adorning of the hair, became equally complex and changing. Art historians are therefore able to use fashion in dating images with increasing confidence and precision, often within five years in the case of 15th century images. Initially changes in fashion led to a fragmentation of what had previously been very similar styles of dressing across the upper classes of Europe, and the development of distinctive national styles. These remained very different until a counter-movement in the 17th to 18th centuries imposed similar styles once again, mostly originating from Ancien Régime France.[9] Though the rich usually led fashion, the increasing affluence of early modern Europe led to the bourgeoisie and even peasants following trends at a distance sometimes uncomfortably close for the elites - a factor Braudel regards as one of the main motors of changing fashion.[10]
Albrecht Dürer's drawing contrasts a well turned out bourgeoisie from Nuremberg (left) with her counterpart from Venice. The Venetian lady's high chopines make her taller Ten 16th century portraits of German or Italian gentlemen may show ten entirely different hats, and at this period national differences were at their most pronounced, as Albrecht Dürer recorded in his actual or composite contrast of Nuremberg and Venetian fashions at the close of the 15th century (illustration, right). The "Spanish style" of the end of the century began the move back to synchronicity among upper-class Europeans, and after a struggle in the mid 17th century, French styles decisively took over leadership, a process completed in the 18th century.[11] Though colors and patterns of textiles changed from year to year,[12] the cut of a gentleman's coat and the length of his waistcoat, or the pattern to which a lady's dress was cut changed more slowly. Men's fashions largely derived from military models, and changes in a European male silhouette are galvanized in theatres of European war, where gentleman officers had opportunities to make notes of foreign styles: an example is the "Steinkirk" cravat or necktie. The pace of change picked up in the 1780s with the increased publication of French engravings that showed the latest Paris styles; though there had been distribution of dressed dolls from France as patterns since the 16th century, and Abraham Bosse had produced engravings of fashion from the 1620s. By 1800, all Western Europeans were dressing alike (or thought they were): local variation became first a sign of provincial culture, and then a badge of the conservative peasant.[13] Although tailors and dressmakers were no doubt responsible for many innovations before, and the textile industry certainly led many trends, the history of fashion design is normally taken to date from 1858, when the English-born Charles Frederick Worth opened the first true haute couture house in Paris. Since then the professional designer has become a progressively more dominant figure, despite the origins of many fashions in street fashion. For women the flapper
styles of the 1920s marked the most major alteration in styles for several centuries, with a drastic shortening of skirt lengths, and much looser-fitting clothes; with occasional revivals of long skirts forms of the shorter length have remained dominant ever since. The four major current fashion capitals are acknowledged to be Milan, New York City, Paris, and London. Fashion weeks are held in these cities, where designers exhibit their new clothing collections to audiences, and which are all headquarters to the greatest fashion companies and are renowned for their major influence on global fashion. Modern Westerners have a wide choice available in the selection of their clothes. What a person chooses to wear can reflect that person's personality or likes. When people who have cultural status start to wear new or different clothes a fashion trend may start. People who like or respect them may start to wear clothes of a similar style. Fashions may vary considerably within a society according to age, social class, generation, occupation, and geography as well as over time. If, for example, an older person dresses according to the fashion of young people, he or she may look ridiculous in the eyes of both young and older people. The terms 'fashionista' or fashion victim refer to someone who slavishly follows the current fashions. One can regard the system of sporting various fashions as a fashion language incorporating various fashion statements using a grammar of fashion. (Compare some of the work of Roland Barthes.)
[edit] Fashion industry
The fashion industry is a product of the modern age. Prior to the mid-19th century, most clothing was custom made. It was handmade for individuals, either as home production or on order from dressmakers and tailors. By the beginning of the 20th century²with the rise of new technologies such as the sewing machine, the rise of global capitalism and the development of the factory system of production, and the proliferation of retail outlets such as department stores²clothing had increasingly come to be mass-produced in standard sizes and sold at fixed prices. Although the fashion industry developed first in Europe and America, today it is an international and highly globalized industry, with clothing often designed in one country, manufactured in another, and sold world-wide. For example, an American fashion company might source fabric in China and have the clothes manufactured in Vietnam, finished in Italy, and shipped to a warehouse in the United States for distribution to retail outlets internationally. The fashion industry has long been one of the largest employers in the United States, and it remains so in the 21st century. However, employment declined considerably as production increasingly moved overseas, especially to China. Because data on the fashion industry typically are reported for national economies and expressed in terms of the industry¶s many separate sectors, aggregate figures for world production of textiles and clothing are difficult to obtain. However, by any measure, the industry accounts for a significant share of world economic output. The fashion industry consists of four levels: the production of raw materials, principally fibres and textiles but also leather and fur; the production of fashion goods by designers, manufacturers, contractors, and others; retail sales; and various forms of advertising and
promotion. These levels consist of many separate but interdependent sectors, all of which are devoted to the goal of satisfying consumer demand for apparel under conditions that enable participants in the industry to operate at a profit. [14]
[edit] Media
Fashion shot from 2006 An important part of fashion is fashion journalism. Editorial critique, guidelines and commentary can be found in magazines, newspapers, on television, fashion websites, social networks and in fashion blogs. At the beginning of the 20th century, fashion magazines began to include photographs of various fashion designs and became even more influential on people than in the past. In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public clothing taste. Talented illustrators drew exquisite fashion plates for the publications which covered the most recent developments in fashion and beauty. Perhaps the most famous of these magazines was La Gazette du Bon Ton which was founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and regularly published until 1925 (with the exception of the war years). Vogue, founded in the US in 1892, has been the longest-lasting and most successful of the hundreds of fashion magazines that have come and gone. Increasing affluence after World War II and, most importantly, the advent of cheap colour printing in the 1960s led to a huge boost in its sales, and heavy coverage of fashion in mainstream women's magazines - followed by men's magazines from the 1990s. Haute couture designers followed the trend by starting the ready-towear and perfume lines, heavily advertised in the magazines, that now dwarf their original couture businesses. Television coverage began in the 1950s with small fashion features. In the 1960s and 1970s, fashion segments on various entertainment shows became more frequent, and by the 1980s, dedicated fashion shows like Fashion-television started to appear. Despite television and increasing internet coverage, including fashion blogs, press coverage remains the most important form of publicity in the eyes of the fashion industry.
However, over the past several years, fashion websites have developed that merge traditional editorial writing with user-generated content. New magazines like iFashion Network, and Runway Magazine, led by Nole Marin from America's Next Top Model, have begun to dominate the digital market with digital copies for computers, iPhones and iPads. A few days after the 2010 Fall Fashion Week in New York City came to a close, The New Islander's Fashion Editor, Genevieve Tax, criticized the fashion industry for running on a seasonal schedule of its own, largely at the expense of real-world consumers. "Because designers release their fall collections in the spring and their spring collections in the fall, fashion magazines such as Vogue always and only look forward to the upcoming season, promoting parkas come September while issuing reviews on shorts in January," she writes. "Savvy shoppers, consequently, have been conditioned to be extremely, perhaps impractically, farsighted with their buying."[15]
[edit] Intellectual property
Within the fashion industry, intellectual property is not enforced as it is within the film industry and music industry. To "take inspiration" from others' designs contributes to the fashion industry's ability to establish clothing trends. For the past few years, WGSN has been a dominant source of fashion news and forecasts in steering fashion brands worldwide to be "inspired" by one another. Enticing consumers to buy clothing by establishing new trends is, some have argued, a key component of the industry's success. Intellectual property rules that interfere with the process of trend-making would, on this view, be counter-productive. In contrast, it is often argued that the blatant theft of new ideas, unique designs, and design details by larger companies is what often contributes to the failure of many smaller or independent design companies. In 2005, the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) held a conference calling for stricter intellectual property enforcement within the fashion industry to better protect small and medium businesses and promote competitiveness within the textile and clothing industries
Fashion journalism
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation, search
Journalism
News · Writing style Ethics · Objectivity Values · Attribution Defamation
Editorial independence Journalism school List of journalism articles
Areas
Arts · Business Entertainment Environment Fashion · Medicine Politics · Science Sports · Technical Trade · Traffic Weather · World
Genres
Advocacy · Broadcast Citizen · Civic Collaborative · Community Database · Gonzo Investigative · Literary Muckraking · Narrative "New Journalism" Non-profit journalism Online · Opinion Peace · Photojournalism Visual · Watchdog
Social impact
Fourth Estate Freedom of the press
Infotainment · Media bias Public relations Yellow journalism
News media
Newspapers · Magazines News agencies Alternative media
Roles
Journalist · Reporter Editor · Columnist Copy editor Meteorologist News presenter Photographer Political commentator
Category: Journalism
vde
Fashion journalism is an umbrella term used to describe all aspects of published fashion media. It includes fashion writers, fashion critics or fashion reporters. The most obvious examples of fashion journalism are the fashion features in magazines and newspapers, but the term also includes books about fashion, fashion related reports on television as well as online fashion magazines, websites and blogs. Since pieces more often than not deal with "tendencies" and "trends", which are subjective by nature, and due to a sometimes tenuous relation with facts, the term "journalism" is used as a moniker, but does not carry the overall procedural and deontological aspects of professional journalism. The work of a fashion journalist can be quite varied. Typical work includes writing or editing articles, or helping to formulate and style a fashion shoot. A fashion journalist typically spends a lot of time researching and/or conducting interviews and it is essential that he or she has good
contacts with people in the fashion industry, including photographers, designers, and public relations specialists. Fashion journalists are either employed full time by a publication or are employed on a freelance basis. The career has grown in importance in other media with the release of films such as The Devil Wears Prada and Confessions of a Shopaholic, and television series such as Ugly Betty.
[edit] Fashion journalism and the internet
About half a year subsequent to pioneer fashion resource named Fashion Net's launch at the outset of 1995 came American Fashionmall and French ELLE. Fashion Live produced Internet's first live fashion webcast of Yves Saint Laurent's runway show in 1996. CNN Style and Hint Magazine arrived in 1998. The following year saw the rise and fall of Boo.com as the company burned through $135 million in 18 months.[1] Style.com, the online umbrella for Vogue and W, started in 2000. Style.com is not a journalistic website but a resource to show the complete collections of selected fashion shows (among the most notorious brands) each season. Following a tiff in 2007, W left Style.com making it the online home for Vogue alone. In the late 2000, Beauty Flow magazine flourished with exclusive content for editorials, portraits and reports. Today, fashion blogs, and other such fashion portals such as http://coutureinthecity.com, http://glamour.com, and http://ifashionnetwork.com, are an increasing force in the fashion industry. Against this trend in August 2006 Westfield Group the world's largest mall and shopping centre owner has unveiled a Webzine titled What's What identifying popular fashion trends with a view to indirectly promote the products available in their tenants stores. The financial funding for such an undertaking is unique as it does not rely on subscriptions or advertising but entirely on advertorials.
My Fashion-Ethiopia¶s New Fashion and Life Style Magazine
By arefe
Take a look at the newly launched Ethiopia¶s life style magazine, My Fashion, and you¶ll come across as diverse issues as tons of fashionable pictures, helpful hints on modern hair dressing and eliminating body odor, interview with Ethiopian young music sensation, Zeritu Kebede, a Ferenj¶s observation on Ethiopian¶s way of eating with hands and even what the Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Ethiopian Airlines day look like The stark contrasts between pictures of scantily clad dressed young women and a number of articles by serious writers seem odd, but purposeful. It is intended to be inclusive of and welcoming to all people. µIt is not all about clothes; it¶s got a whole lot about other stuff that is not just about image. It¶s got issues on human relations, diet and fitness, sports and IT tips. So it¶s got something for
everybody. There¶s something for the fashion conscious, there¶s something for the serious minded¶ Selome Lagesse, Magazine¶s Managing Director told this writer. Selome, who states she is neither a model nor a fashion designer, had an all-time yearning to establish a fashion magazine. µWhile I was around 14 attending high school in American Mission, I had developed a passion for fashion. The senior girls used to bring various magazines like Vogue and I used to enjoy looking at the glossy pages. So My Fashion is a dream come true.¶ Written in English, on all-color out and glossy paper My Fashion is aimed at a relatively privileged Addis Women and men and it already proved to have tremendous appeal to such audience. Their debut issues managed to have 5,000 copies sales. While western fashion magazines such as Vogue and Cosmopolitan are available in Addis, they are expensive and sometimes hard for Ethiopia women to identify with. Selome says that My Fashion is an entertaining Magazine aimed at showcasing Ethiopian fashion and brining Ethiopian women close to the world without losing their cultural heritage. Asked if there is anything called Ethiopia fashion, Selome shot back smilingly, µWhy not? We have beautiful tilet, dresses, traditional fabric and embroidery. Ethiopia is one of the few countries in touch with its handcrafted techniques, unique hair styling and diverse cultural heritage.¶ The magazine captures the flavor of a middle class Addisers and uses models from that setting to give the fashion spread an authentic feel and a distinctive look. µWe want to feature many designers in each edition, so that we would appeal to the test of everybody. In the first issue we used the shops like Miki¶s, Lady Shop that bring in stylish clothes, in the second issue we have decided to give local designers, the Ras Africa brand designer, Osman and the Dohann brand designer Hanna their chance. So just in that respect, readers will have a very rich sense of fashion that can appeal to different people in the country.¶ says Selome. Asked what some of the challenges involved in doing a magazine like My Fashion, she said that the first challenge the cost associated with printing. ³Printing a glossy and art-paper magazine is very expensive, especially when it is printed abroad. While the production cost is around 38 Birr, we are selling it only with 10 Birr. So we are putting high investment. But advertisement will come as people get to know it and be confident in the quality or print, content and quality of editorial. Asked what people¶s reaction was, the Managing Director says µ People loved the magazines. The replies we have received so far are heartening. It is something that I¶m taking just in my stride because it¶s a lot of hard work and I feel very privileged to do it. We would improve by collecting people¶s feedback. We would be more resilient in whatever circumstances.¶
Selome has ambitious plans to change people¶s negative attitude towards models and to start a model institute so that Ethiopian models can be trained and then go on to take advantage of the business opportunities.¶ Some of the people we have approached to tell us what they think of the magazine have mixed reactions. Hikmu Nuru, a hijab wearing young Muslim, who works in a bookshop, says she liked that magazine and added, µI am glad now we have our fashion magazines. It is full of fashion items. The clothes are sometimes ugly. The movie and the music review are informative and fun.¶ Samson Wondimu, a young man who works for Save the Children, was critical and wondered if Ethiopia is becoming like India, where they have a version of everything western. It seems an imitation of the worst type µ, he insisted. Meron Belay, a secretary in a private firm was taken aback by the content. ³I saw the magazine, I felt a little bit uncomfortable in looking at it, and I was expecting it to be a little bit more conservative´. Selome says they respect and accept all the comments they get from the public and strives hard to make s My Fashion an East African magazine and eventually reach the continent
