Illustration 2005-08 US Los Angeles

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101 ThingsYou'll Love!

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LEATHER GOODS ^CRET ARDEN OVIE OSTERS 4DIO -IOW FLIPFLOPS SUMMER COCKTAIL LASTMINUTE GIFTS SHIATSU MASSAGE JAZZ CLUB PIÑATAS LUGGAGE REPAIR CHILDREN'S MUSEUM COFFEETABLE BOOKS WAFFLES SPRAYON TAN
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CONTRIBUTORS
J O N VALK (cover image typography) has designed the



covers of numerous books, including Maximum Ride, The Dating

Setting o / the Pearl and Boy Vey! The Shiksa's Guide to Robb Report, and Entertainment Weekly.

Jewish Men. Valk's work has been featured in Time, New York,

M A R C B U R C K H A R D T ("Eastside Story," page 140) has received awards from Communicafion Arts and American Illustration. i ^ * ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ * peared in Time, Rolling Stone, and He teaches illustration at Texas State University, and his work has ap-

National Geographic. This month his lithograph portraits of Johnny Cash will be included inside a special C D box set commemorating the 5 0 t h anniversary of the singer's first single release. ^2RtY%.

J O E Z E F F c o m p o s e d t h e d i g i t a l i l l u s t r a t i o n f o r this



month's cover. Zeff was the graphics director at Time from

1999 to 2 0 0 0 and is the founder of the New Jersey-based studio Joe Zeff Design. He has produced covers for many national publications, including Newsweek, Esquire, and Sporfs Illustrated. Senior editor M A R G O T D O U G H E R T Y ("The Ivy League," page 132) oversees restaurant coverage for Los Angeles. She formerly w o r k e d at Life, People, and fTnferfainmenf Weekly and was a founding editor of Who, the Australian c o u n t e r p a r t of People.

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J A N E E. A L L E N ("Dr. Diabesity," page 66) was a health



writer for the Los Angeles Times for five years. She has

written for O, the Oprah Magazine and Mamm and is a consultant to the California Endowment Health Journalism Fellowship at the USC Annenberg School for Communication. Contributing writer K E V I N R O D E R I C K ("Winner's Circle," page 56) is the author of The San Fernando Valley: America's Suburb and the creator of the Web log L.A. O b s e r v e d . A former Smithsonian Concourse Angel City Press will publish his book Witshire Boulevard: Grand staff writer and senior editor at the Los Angeles Times. Roderick has written for and LA. Architect. of Los Angeles later this year.

LISA R O M E R E I N ("The Best of L A , " * page 100) is a regular contributor to the magazine's Style section. Her photographs have been published in Martha Siewart Living, Elle Decor, and The Los Angeles Times Magazine.

M A R Y T R A H A N ("Net Profits." page 74) is a frequent contributor to Los Angeles. She is working on a book project about female riverboat captains on the Mississippi River.

From The Peter Norman Handcrafted Platinum Collection 1 1 6 4 0 San Vicente Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 9 0 0 4 9 www.peternorman.com

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E B O Y ("The Best of L.A.." 1 page t o o ) is the partnership of Berlin-based pixel artists Svend

Smital, Kai Vermehr, and Steffen Sauerteig (from left) and New York-based vector artist Peter Stemmler. eBoy. whose work has been featured in Wired, Blender, and The New Yorker, has created images for everything from T-shirts and cell phone covers to C D sleeves.

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RADIO SHOW
Bollocks to set lists. Former Sox Pistol Steve Jones puts anarchy in L.A.'s lunchtimo on JONESY'S JUKEBOX. No one else plays the Faces and then answers his cell phono on the air. No one else has the Eels on one day and Billy Gibbons from ZZ Top on the next. No one else makes listeners guess what he's whistling for concert tickets or passes gas between songs. He's unafraid of dead air. He's punk. And he invented it. » Airs Monday through Friday, noon to 2 p.m., on 103.1 FM.

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PLAYHOUSES
Best known for his sculptural furniture, Culver City artist and architect GREGG FLEISHMAN also makes modular structures perfect for the backyard of a Case Study homo. Made of Finnish birch, his elegant Cluster-Structure Playhouse is infinitely expandable. He charges $1,500 for each cluster. » 3850 Main Si.. Cuiver City, 310-202-0100* or www.greggfleishman.com.

French Fries
The French concocted them. The Belgians slathered them in mayo. Ray Kroc shoved them across McDrive-thrus. And Congress renamed them. French fries, "freedom" fries—po-tay-to, po-tah-to. America's favorite side dish, in whatever form, is also L.A.'s. Ask Angelenos which batch they swear by and they'll likely recall the tastes of In-N-Out, where fresh Idaho russets arrive daily. Tommy's has been feeding our cravings for 50 years with its chunkier, lightly salted mainstay. Favorite casual fry hubs like Mo' Bettah Meatty Meat Burger and Benitas Frites have folded, prompting us to cast a glance at higher-end venues. JAR on Beverly serves fries a cut above any others we've tasted. Chefs Suzanne Tracht and Preech Narkthong abide by the doubledipping method, using canola oil for a crunchy, golden coat, then generously tossing the potatoes in garlic and parsley, making them long in the slice but short on the grease. French fries here are dished up on a doily in ramekins lined with snippets from last week's Calendar section and paired with a gravy boat of sweetened ketchup. Perch on a bar stool at JAR and order up— this is where local foodies go for a twist on county fair fare. It would be your neighborhood diner if the patrons were sipping Coke instead of pinot. » 8225 Beverly Blvd., LA., 323-655-6566 or www.ihejar.com.

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WALKING TOUR
For architecture lovers the Los Angeles Conservancy's HISTORIC CORE tour is a Saturday must. This two-and-ahalf-hour survey of the area around downtowns Pershing Square showcases our city's beaux arts and art deco past. Knowledgeable docents sharo forgotten lore and provide a crash course in preservation appreciation. )) 523 W. 6th St., Ste. 826, L.A., 213-023-2489 or www./aconservancy.org.

IO2

LOS ANGELES A U G U S T 200S

I I THE BEST OF LA I I

Carousel
A great carousel need not be overly polished. A little carny grit is good-the reassuring patina of age, of so many childhoods spent circling on the steeds while the pipe organ blares out its chorus of delight. Knott's Berry Farm's 1896 Dentzel menagerie, with its ostriches, boar, and zebra, is spectacular; its location under the shudpjjjjjBjMjjjpjjjpw dcring tracks of the Silver Bullet coaster less so. Set on a hillside overlooking an expanse of green, the GRIFFITH PARK MERRY-GOROUND is near perfect. Moved to the site in 1937, it features 68 hand-carved, hand-painted, and hand-bejeweled jumpers, their tails of real horsehair flapping in the breeze. We love the two chariots emblazoned with Adam chasing a nude Eve and the haunting strains of that Stinson pipe organ washing over us. and the city itself. )) Griffith Park Dr. (follow signs to merry-go-round). 323-665-3051 orwww.laparks.org/dos/parks/griffithPK/mgr.htm. When our prized oak is seeming a bit unkempt or starved for attention, we call in the steady hands at FINCH TREE SURGERY, which nurse the town's stateliest citizens in the Huntington Botanical Gardens and the L.A. County Arboretum. Chief arborist and president Randy Finch continues the work of retired founding father Fred, who professionally trimmed his first tree in 1946. With the recent addition of grandson Michael, the family business has extended into its third generation. Rest assured that the specialist is certified, the production crew completely inhouse, and tree removal always tho last resort. Scaling the tallest peaks is done just as Granddaddy did it, with ladder, rope, and saddle—even for the occasional cat rescue.)) 841E. Mission Dr., San Gabriel, 62Ó-28Ó-27I6 or www./inc/ifree.com.

Looking around the new CALLEEN CORDERO BOUTIQUE on Beverly Boulevard, it's hard to imagine that every studded belt, platform shoe, and suode bag is handmade in a North Hollywood factory. Calleen Cordero, I 39year-old single mother of two, may have started in her garage five years ago, but now her signature line sells throughout the United States. Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. Unlike the competition, she sells each of her collections as a limited run, and you won't see the same designs in every store. "I like to use sensational materials that aren't massproduced." says Cordero. Indeed, we watched a 15-foot wood plank being turned into carved wedge heels, sandal straps crafted from a slab of metallic leather detailed with cutouts, and belts meticulously nailed with weathered nickel and brass studs. Another irresistible feature: Every shoe is built for comfort, whether it's with a padded insole or a hollowed wedge or an arch support. 11 7584 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323-934-5S41 or www.ca/leencorc/ero.com.

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A U G U S T 2 0 0 5 LOS A N G E L E S 1 O3

I I THE BEST OF LA I I
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Scooters
One look around the SCOOTER SHOP in Orange and we're imagining ourselves as Audrey Hepburn in ßoman Holiday, whipping through Italy's backstreets on our Lambretta. Then we notice the newer models, big shiny jobs capable of cruising at 65 mph, and we are immersed in a more Road Warrior-like daydream, clad in black leather, adrenaline pumping. "There is no set demographic for a scooterist," says owner Michael Koslov, using the preferred nomenclature. A scooter owner since 12, Koslov gets high marks for selling and restoring new and vintage models, hosting rally barbecues, and—this is key—retaining the same mechanic for years. > 1043 W Collins Ave.. Orange, 800> 23-VESPA or www.scootershop.com.

Kiteboarding
When we're hanging out by the Granada boat launch in Long Beach, they're tough to miss: People in wet suits being yanked across the water by enormous half-moon kites. The bane of true surfers—and some windsurfers— kiteboarders descend regularly on balmy BELMONT SHORE. Many sites, including County Line, Topanga, and Cabrillo, are limited to advanced riders because of rocky shorelines, gusty winds, and city restrictions. One of the few areas in Southern California suitable for beginners, Bolmont boasts smooth waters, two large takeoff areas, and a share-the-beach philosophy not seen at a whole lot of traditional surfing spots. » Park at E. Ocean Blvd. near Granada Ave. and walk down the beach.

It's not hard to get a buzz these days. But the URTH CAFFÉ. which started as a mail-order business in 1989, blends the most conscientious brews: Its premium organic beans are grown in the shade of original rain forest canopies on farms where sustainability is an imperative. Owners Shallom and Jilla Berkman now operate throe cafés in town. We're impressed with the expediters who take orders at the back of the line, so by the time we get to the register, we're good to go. Along with fine teas and easy takeout items like muffin-sizo bread puddings, crunchy biscotti, and flaky croissants, the good Urth serves eggs, salads, sandwiches, tostadas, and quiches indoors and out on the breezy patio. There's valet parking to boot. > 8565 Melrose Ave., West > Hollywood, 310-659-O628; 267 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 310205-93»: 2327 Main St., Santa Monica, 310-3 M-7O4O.

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LOS A N G E L E S AUGUST

2005

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HAIRBRUSH SELECTION
At the BEAUTY COLLECTION'S unassuming Tarzana branch, there is an entire aisle of hairbrushes devoted to head cases, including Spornettes (all labeled for individual hair type), Bio Ionics (to restore moisture balance), and a swanky Mason Pearson from the U.K. that will set you back $250. » 185'7 Ventura Blvd.. Tarzana, 818-8818393 or www.beautyco//ection.com.

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BALLET SCHOOL
Still harboring childhood fantasies of pink tulle? The BALLE i offers more than 80 classes a week for children and adults. For nearly 40 years artistic director and founder Yvonne Mounsey, once a principal dancer for George Balanchine, has been a mainstay in the city's dance scene. 177J Stewart St., Santa Monica, 3'0-828-20l8 or www.wesisideba//ef.com.

Secret Garden
Even though—or is it because?—we live in an u r b a n d e s e r t , w e seek o u t places w h e r e w e can indulge a passion f o r p l a n t s . Sure, t h e r e are t h e Big T h r e e : Descanso G a r d e n s in La C a ñ a d a F l i n t r i d g e , t h e H u n t i n g t o n B o t a n i c a l G a r d e n s in San M a r i n o , a n d t h e Los A n g e l e s C o u n t y A r b o r e t u m in A r c a d i a . H o w e v e r , w e have a p a r t i c u l a r f o n d n e s s f o r l e s s e r - k n o w n gems like UCLA's M i l d r e d E. M a t h i a s B o t a n i c a l G a r d e n , an e m e r a l d m i n i Forest t h a t sits a mile f r o m o n e o f t h e city's b u s i e s t i n t e r s e c t i o n s . Traffic noise o c c a s i o n ally spoils t h e m o o d , b u t o n c e w e d e s c e n d t h e Mathias's w i n d i n g p a t h w a y s it's easy t o lose o u r s e l v e s in seven acres o f t r o p i c a l a n d s u b t r o p i c a l s p e c i e s f r o m a r o u n d t h e w o r l d . W h e n we'd r a t h e r enjoy t h e b o u n t y o f C a l i f o r n i a in a m o r e s e r e n e s e t t i n g , n o t h i n g b e a t s t h e R A N C H O S A N T A A N A B O T A N I C G A R D E N in C l a r e m o n t . T h e shaggy, s p r a w l i n g 0 6 - a c re r e f u g e c o n t a i n s t h e f o r e m o s t a s s e m b l a g e o f nativ e species, i n c l u d i n g m o r e t h a n 2 , 8 0 0 of t h e state's 6 , 0 0 0 t y p e s o f p l a n t s . As w e w a n d e r along its trails , r a b b i t s s k i t t e r past a n d w a y w a r d b r a n c h e s b r u s h o u r s h o u l d e r s . T h e air is p e r f u m e d w i t h s w e e t and musky scents. A m o n g o u r f a v o r i t e s t o p s a r e a C a l i f o r n i a f a n p a l m oasis, an oak g r o v e , a n d w h o l e c o l l e c t i o n s d e v o t e d t o t h e coastal d u n e s a n d t o cultivars (varieties d e v e l o p e d f o r special p u r p o s e s ) , i n c l u d i n g o n e n a m e d f o r Susanna B i x b y B r y a n t , w h o s t a r t e d t h e g a r d e n o n h e r O r a n g e C o u n t y r a n c h in 1927. ( A q u a r t e r c e n t u r y

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LUGGAGE REPAIR
In business since 1897, BEVERLY HILLS LUGGAGE & GIFT SHOP can fix busted zippers and wobbly wheels or do a full overhaul (for the film Titanic, the shop restored decades-old bags). All repairs are done offsite by Mike, who has been with the company for three decades: pickups arc on Tuesday, and most jobs can be completed in one week. Need references? The Louis Vuitton store regularly sends customers. » 404 N. Beverly Dr.. Beverly Hills, 310273-5885 or www.bhtiags.com.

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later, it was r e l o c a t e d and is n o w a n o n p r o f i t i n s t i t u t i o n a f f i l i a t e d w i t h C l a r e m o n t G r a d u a t e University.) S p r i n k l e d t h r o u g h o u t t h e g r o u n d s are u s e f u l b o t a n i c a l f o o t n o t e s on f i e l d m a r k e r s . > J500 N. College > Ave., Claremont, 909-Ó25-87Ó7 o r w w w . r s a b g . o r g .

AUGUST 2005 LOS ANGELES

IOS

FICTIONAL DETECTIVE
When evil was evil, moralizing P.l.s could protect us. Now that evil occupies truth's office, it takes a corrupt cop. Sure. The Shield's VIC MACKEY steals, but he comes off clean. Is it actor Michael Chiklis's shaved head? Nah. Enforcers always look dirtier killing for the powerful than for the underdog. > Airs > Tuesday, ÍO p.m., on FX.

PUBLIC OBSERVATORY
We know. We miss it, too. Griffith Observatory, currently undergoing renovation, won't reopen until next May. In the meantime, we head up to the lOO-year-old MOUNT WILSON OBSERVATORY, whose telescopes have produced scientific coups, including Edwin Hubble's confirmation of the big bang theory. From nearly 6,000 foot above Pasadena, the stars and the city lights are equally amazing. » 626-4409016 or www.mlwiljon.ec/u.

T h e pleasures of w i n e s h o u l d begin in t h e w i n e s t o r e . A n i n v e n t o r y t h a t is d e e p e n o u g h t o i n v i t e b r o w s i n g yet e d i t e d so t h a t e a c h b o t t l e seems to b e c k o n c a n h e i g h t e n a n t i c i-

EASY NATURE WALK
Sometimes wo just want to pull a Thoreau and slip away for on hour. Our favorite escape is Malibu's SOLSTICE CANYON TRAIL, where we can walk under a canopy of trees to a waterfall and the intriguing ruins of a Paul Williams house that was damaged by fire and now is being swallowed up by decades of plant growth. » 3455 Solstice Canyon Dr., Malibu. www.nps.gov/sama/maps/solstice.htm.

p a t i o n of t h a t m o m e n t w h e n t h e c o r k is p u l l e d . L.A. has w i t n e s s e d a b o o m l e t of w i n e shops in t h e past half d e c a d e or so. w i t h several n o t e w o r t h y o p t i o n s a m o n g t h e m . At Silverlake W i n e , t h e b r o a d c h o i c e is r o o t e d in s e l e c t i o n s t h a t c l e a r l y express t h e region t h e y a r e f r o m . A t C h r o n i c l e W i n e Cellar, h i d d e n b e h i n d Pie 'n B u r g e r in Pasadena, buyer Gus M a r t i n o f f e r s smartl y c h o s e n bargains w i t h a h i n t of shtick. L a r c h m o n t Village W i n e , S p i r i t s & C h e e s e is user f r i e n d l y : T h e M o s c a t o d'Asti chills in t h e cooler, r e a d y t o b e p i c k e d u p o n t h e way h o m e f r o m w o r k . T h e s t a c k e d cases a n d long racks at t h e W O O D L A N D H I L L S W I N E C O M P A N Y , h o w e v e r , h o l d a c o l l e c t i o n t h a t is n o t so m u c h e x h a u s t i v e as it is d e f i n i t i v e . W e can e x p l o r e O r e g o n w i n e m a k e r Ken W r i g h t ' s t a k e on f i ve p i n o l n o i r vineyards, or f o r t h a t m a t t e r , f o u r b u r g u n d y v i g n e r o n s ' i n t e r p r e t a t i o n s o f a single v i n e y a r d , such as G e v r e y - C h n m b e r t i n s C l o s S a i n t - J a c q u o s. W h e t h e r it is t h e l i g h t h e a r t e d p r o m i s e e v o k e d by a Fritz Haag K a b i n e t t o r t h e b r i t t l e g r a n d e u r that r a d i a t e s f r o m an a g e d B o r d e a u x , w e can g o f r o m aisle t o aisle in this Valley i n s t i t u t i o n t o u c h i n g b o t t l e s a n d glancing at labels, gradually s u c c u m b i n g t o t h e pleasures of stillu n o p e n e d wines. » 22Ó22 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Wills. 8l8-222-Wl or www.whwineco.com.

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LOS A N G E L E S A U G U S T

2005

II THE BEST OF LA I I

Exotic CarRental
Ditch the dented, cigarette-scented Dodge Noonthis is L.A. Whether you're an out-of-towner or a local looking to impress, among the fleet of ridos at BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR there are Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Porsches, Maseratis, Escalades, Hummers, Rolls-Royce Phantoms, and one cherry red 1976 Cadillac El Dorado. Located since 1992 in a wee triangle of a parking lot across the street from CAA and Trader Vic's, the franchise also has branches in West Hollywood, Santa Monica, Marina del Rey, and Newport Beach and at LAX. A Web site has photos of most of the cars available; just don't mind the touristy sight-seeing text—it's a bit dated. » 9732 S. Sanfa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-274-6969 or www.biirentacar.com.

Handmade Tile
The only machines in the Long Beach shop of KEN MASON TILE are 45 kilns. The rest of the work is unmistakably hand-done. No two crackled glazes are alike, nor does ono fleur-de-lis look like another. Mosaic pieces are hand-cut from larger tiles, leaving sharp edges that produce shimmering facets. Each year the shop presses 1,000 tons of Sacramento River clay into 300 one-of-a-kind molds, making 2,5 million tiles—from genuine raku (the venerable Korean art of coaxing metallic finishes) to terra-cotta. Don't like an existing design? Suggest your own. Even an old buffalo nickel can be rendered in platinum and silver if you've got the time and inclination. 809 W J5fhSt., Long Beach, 562-432-7574 or www.irmt-focia.com.

eater
The 30-seat BLACK DAHLIA proves that when done well, small theater knows no limits. Since founding the Dahlia four years ago, Matt Shakman has developed a storefront showcase for new works by emerging writers and established names like Stephen Adly Guirgis. Ingeniously staged, deftly acted productions have made this one of American Theater magazine's dozen young companies to watch. "We embrace our space," says Shakman. "The audience has to, too. With us you can't help but be in the world of the play because there's no room for a fourth wall." This season brings two

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premieres: Keith Josef Adkins's Farewell Miss Cotton, in which an old man's past and present

collide, and Placement, Blair Singer's monologue about adoption. » 5453 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 323www.lhedahlia.com. 525-0070 or

A U G U S T 2 O 0 5 LOS A N G E L E S

107

I I THE BEST OF LA I I

Supply m
W I L D B I R D S U N L I M I T E D in Torrance is t h e Vegas b u f f e t of b i r d f o o d stores, o f f e r ing e v e r y t h i n g f r o m seedcakes t o s u n f l o w e r heads t o suet (a f o o d p r o d u c t that's p u r e fat) t o live m e a l w o r m s . Unlike t h e s t u f f y o u buy at t h e g r o c e r y store. W i l d Birds' stock is fresh (it's r o t a t e d e v e ry t w o weeks) and b l e n d e d specifically f o r regional species. There's n o t h i n g h e r e f o r p o t s , b u t all m a n n e r of f e e d e r s f o r f i n c h es, h u m m i n g b i r d s — a n d e v e n b a t s a n d squirrels—can b e h a d . It's a h o m e y p l a c e , with decorative birdbaths u p f r o n t , t w o a f f e c t i o n a t e cats. T h e o a n d S a m a n t h a , o u t back, a n d a " b r a g b o o k " on the counter for customers to post 3 photos of their favorite backyard sightings. Perhap s t h e best reason t o s h o p here? T h e s t o r e raises t h o u s a n d s o f dollars a year f o r local b i r d - l o v i n g c h a n t i e s . » 25416 Blvd.. Torrance, www.wbu.com. Crenshaw 3JO-326-2473 or

Wild Bird

Chicken Potpie
There are two classic forms of edible solace: the one-pot meal and the homemade pie. Whoever thought to combine the two in the farm-spun chicken potpie should be canonized in the new speedy fashion. In tho meantime, several restaurants are paying homage with preparations that aro soughtafter staples on their menus. The Broadway Deli makes a creamy number but skips the crust and plops a biscuit in its midst, and Musso & Frank delivers its pie with drama. But KATE MANTILINI won us over with its tender white chunks of chicken, its peas, carrots, and onions in a just-rich-enough cream sauce, and its light, well-textured crust. ::• 9JO! WHshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 3>0-27S-36oO; 592) Owcnsmoufh Ave.. Wood/and Hills, SIS-348-1095.

This is a c a t e g o r y in w h i c h there's l i t t l e c o n t á LE PALAIS DES T H É S is a soigné F r e n c h o u t f i t , and owners Randy A r n o l d a n d David B a r e n h o l t z , w h o also run t h e A p e x Fine A r t p h o t o gallery, s p e n t t w o years n e g o t i a t i n g f o r t h e rights t o o p e n its b o u tiques in N o r t h A m e r i c a . T h e y ' v e d o n e t h e i r sovereign p r o u d . T h e walls of t h e Beverly Hills flagship are lined w i t h tins of teas f r o m a r o u n d t h e w o r l d , t h e i r labels c o l o r c o d e d by region: r e d for Asia, b r o w n f o r A f r i c a , t u r q u o i s e for Iran-Turkey-Georgia. You can buy y o u r b e l o v e d a M o m b a s a tea basket, a g r e e n tea box set, a b e a u t i f u l ceramic or m e t a l p o t , esoteric accessories, a n d magical loose b r e w s like Bao Z h o n g Imperial, Nilgiri Thiashola, D o n g Ding, or Sencba Supérieur. They've got tasting classes, t o o . }> 401 N. Canon Dr.. Beverly Hills. 3)0-271-7922.

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LOS A N G E L E S

AUGUST

2005

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CHIMNEY RESTORATION
Recommended by the Pasadena Heritage and West Adams Heritage associations, the masons at BOSTON BRICK & STONE have rebuilt chimneys in homes designed by Myron Hunt and Paul Williams. The 13year-old company provides clients with detailed work schedules and a "happy call" on completion to ensure satisfaction, u 2005 Lincoln Ave., Pasadena, 626-296-7700 or www.bosfonfaricic.com.

FAKE GRASS
No watering? No mowing? No discoloration? We don't normally encourage artificial appearances, except in the case of fake grass. The SPRINTURF company nearly bamboozled us with the color, cut. and fine texture of its "Ultrablade" line. Certified Los Angeles-area dealer California Synthetic Turf & Lawn provides free estimates. I > 310-595-5516 or www.ca/synfheiiclur/com.

Jazz

The best jazz club in L.A. is wherever ROCCO SOMAZZI handles the booking on a given night. Live jazz starts with the unpredictable alchemy of an audience willing to take on the unexpected in a charged room—and then the music starts. That's where Somazzi comes in. The 33-year-old takes risks, cares passionately about the performances, and puts good food out, too. He's booked established stars such as Alan Pasqua and Kenny Barron, third-world experimentalists, and CalArts noise. He is the rare local booker who keeps jazz fans wondering what he's going to do next. Somazzi follows his muse to a fault, which is probably why he's singing God bless the child who's got his own. Since he closed his way-ambitious Bel-Air restaurant-club Rocco's in 2000, however, he hasn't hunkered down, hasn't sold out—he's diversified. Right now Somazzi handles the jazz at Café Metropol, a yummy brick-walled room in an industrial part of downtown. He also organizes shows in the Gallery Theater at Barnsdall Art Park. In a funny twist of fate, Herb Alpert has opened the club Vibrato Grill Jazz...etc. on the Beverly Glen site of Somazzi's old joint. The place'has been getting a lot of attention but still is finding its footing. Here's what the Grill needs: Somazzi booking the acts. » 323-804-4146 or www.roccoinla.com. Café Metropol, 923 ¿7. 3rd St., L.A., 213-613-1537 or www.ca/emerropo/.com. Ga//ery Theater, Barnsdall Art Park, 4800 Hollywood Blvd.. Hollywood. 866-881-8399.

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CANING AND BASKET SUPPLY
You have to be born into the business to do the kind of work that ME & BASKET SUPPLY has been doing since 1934. A collection of workshops and warehouses, the family-run operation restores wicker and cane furniture and sells European- and Asian-imported weaving cords, basketry reeds, and cane webbing in case you dare try this yourself. 1263 S. Cochran Ave., L.A., 323-9399644 or www.canebasket.com.

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RUG REPAIR
The puppy snacked on the rug? Third-generation weaver Hratch Kozibeyokian of KO-ZCRAFT in Shadow Hills can repair any handwovon antique or contemporary textile by recreating the loom, matching the fibers, then tying the knots. "In our work you should not see the work," says Kozibeyokian. And unlike the vet, he makes house calls. » SI3-353-445S or www.rugl/ni.com (by appointment only).

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SHAVING SUPPLIES
Shaving is nothing if not a delicate art. LARRY'S SHAVER SHOP has everything for the discerning groomer, from Braun electrics and single-blade safety razors to badger-hair lathering brushes and cakes of Caswoll-Massey soap. : I 521 Wilshtre Blvd., Santa Monica. 310-393-3291-

Bathroom
Plumbing fixtures may be the most utilitarian of household objects, but they can also be the most lavish. They must hold water, yet at their best they can be sculpture that soothes and stimulates. Though other Los Angeles-area plumbing emporiums have their strengths (Ferguson, with seven outlets, maintains a terrific selection), GEORGE'S PIPE & PLUMBING in Pasadena is where architects, designers, and savvy civilians seek Bain Ultra air baths and Dornbracht lavatory sets as avidly as Flaubert sought le mot juste. Founded in 1956 as a union plumbing contractor. George's offers not just an array of creamy fixtures and gleaming faucets but well-informed service. In fact, owner Rick Brandley, the 49-year-old nephew of the eponymous George, started here when he was 12 and has put together a staff of 17 that functions as a veritable plumbing faculty. George's makes a point of carrying local products. Among its lines are California Faucets from Huntington Beach, L.A.-based Altaian's, and Rohl. a Santa Ana distributor. Not that George's slights international concerns. Faucets from TUG and Herbeau also occupy coveted shelf space in the 2,500-square-foot shop. Later this year, when George's moves to 7,000-square-foot digs two blocks away, it will stock the Toto Neo Rest, the Lexus of toilets. The $5,200 fixture boasts an automatically opening seat, and it washes and air-dries your business end. "It's the first new thing in toilets since Thomas Crapper invented them," says Brandley. » Ó90 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, Ó26-792-5547 or www.georcfessfiowroom.com.

HOUSEPLANTS
In this city of nurseries, the hardest thing to find is a fetching houseptant. But not at POLLING GREENS, where the profusion of color (purple campanula) and greenery (AfoCOSfa imperia/is) is so impressive, we are tempted to buy it all every time we stop by. Just west of La Ciénega Boulevard, Rolling Greens has long been where contractors come to purchase small and large specimens. The shop is also open to the public. As a coffeepot up front attests, browsing is welcome. )> 9S23 Jefferson Blvd., Culver Ciiy, SJO-559-B6S6.

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Piñatas
The piñata is the ultimate in counterfeit entertainment, an unapologetic collision of pop and folk cultures. It is at once artful and disposable, handcrafted and mass-produced, a paste-and-tissue knockoff of every kiddie icon Hollywood has ever copyrighted. In L.A. the piñata universe is centered along a stretch of East Olympic Boulevard, just off Central Avenue, on the fringes of downtown's toy and garment districts. A dozen storefronts compete for business, their papier-mache SpongeBobs and Tolotubbies and Shreks spilling onto the sidewalk. None boasts the labyrinthine splendor, though, of TAPIA PRODUCE, with its aisles of spices and nuts, hardware and pottery—plus grown-up piñatas in the shape of Tecate cans. 1248 E. Olympic Blvd., L.A., 213-624-5638 or www.tapiaproduce.com.

Hollywood Bowl Parking
We like the idea of stress-free shuttle service the Bowl provides from Chatsworth and Rowland Heights and Lakewood but hate to give up the freedom our chariot affords us. To stay mobile, choices include stacked parking, which guarantees long exit times, price gouging, or walks through badly lit neighborhoods. The HOLLYWOOD UNITED METHODIST CHURCH is in a convenient locale, offers quick escapes, and can't overcharge (it's probably in the Scriptures). Donations are usually $5 to $10, depending on the event. Administrator Mark Stephenson says people "like giving to the church. Wo get a lot of repeat customers." He recommends early arrival to secure one of the lOO or so spaces. Some patrons even attend services afterward. » 6817 Franklin Ave.. Hollywood. 323-874-2104 or www.hollywoodumc.org.

Born in Italy and trained in London and New York, Vincenzo Marianella has spent enough time in L.A.—most recently as Valentino's mixologist—to realize ours is not a serious cocktail town. Apple martinis and cosmopolitans were all anyone requested. So in April Marianella was heading to London, where they appreciate a good summer cocktail, when Providence's general manager, Donato Poto, previously of Bastido, stopped him. Marianella could have the bar he wanted—organic juices, fresh fruit, nothing from a gun—and all the 14ounce collins glasses necessary to hold his perfect summer drink, which has the bite of tequila, the sweetness of berries, the color of Chambord. the balanced tang of lemon, and the snap of ginger beer cut with orange bitters. "I'll call it," said Marianella. "the RHODE ISLAND RED. But if you drink more than three, I'm calling you a taxi." )> 5955 Me/rose Ave.. L.A.. 323-460-4170.

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Vintage Movie Posters
Hard to believe, but 50 years ago there was a bustling bookstore district on Hollywood Boulevard. Pickwick, Satyr, and Cherokee are long gone, but LARRY EDMUNDS BOOKSHOP has survived and thrived by specializing in the ephemeral images of movie publicity. Early noirs and black westerns are among the thousands of posters and lobby cards from a century of film that line the walls. {The store also stocks more than half-a-million movie stills, in case you're feeling ambitious.) The crack staff of obsessive cineasts understand the difference between a teaser one-sheet and a Belgian afftche, and they'll send you on your way for less than r •"<* » V . ,• the cost of a night at the movies, i> 6644 Hollywood Blvd.. Hollywood, 323463-3273 or www.larry"'"•*•' ' .-- ... edmunds.com.

SSSBä

In northern Italy, you can't end dinner at the local osteria without having a tulip-shaped glass of grappa. The unaged brandy, distilled from grape skins and stems, is said to have been imbibed in the shadow of the Alps since Christ was turning water into wine. Southern California, alas, is another matter. While Valentino serves some fine grappas, like BBBBBBBBBBBBaBB-i Jacopo Poli and Nonino, and the bar at Zueca shows off a few more, like pear- and cherry-flavored examples stored in blownglass bottles, Pasadena's TRATTORIA TRE VENEZIE has the county's best selection— 71 choices-behind its tiny bar. There's Grappa Marolo, a flowery, chamomile-ba5ed variety; Gioiello Nonino, nutty flavored, with chestnut honey; and at $45 a glass, Ue Moscato C m Besenello di Vallagarina, whose taste of apricots and melon finishes with the scent of rose petals. » 119 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626-795-4455.

Eco-Friendly Dry Cleaner
Dry cleaning may be a life staple right up there with food, shelter, and sex, but the industry's favorite cleaning solvent, perchloroethylene, is associated with a raft of environmental and health risks, including central nervous system damage, that we could do without. A growing number of operators have switched to environmentally friendlier cleaning methods. Sunny-Brite ; in Eagle Rock is impressive, but our I favorite is James Jung's Beverly Hills-adjacent COUTURIER CLEANERS, where the service is enthusiastic (really), the cost is reasonable, and the clothes come out fresh and clean. What a novel experience to tear off the plastic wrap from a sweater and smell absolutely nothing. » 93» W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310-860-9608.

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OVERSTOCK
Everything ¡s 20 to 75 percent off at the LISA KLINE OUTLET, but the array of sizes and the helpful service make the discounts even sweeter. Go often: More than 40 women's and men's designer labels, including Theory, James Perse, Paper Denim & Cloth, and Rufus, are shipped from the Lisa Kline shops in L.A. and Malibu to the Melrose outlet almost every week. >J 7207 Melrose Ave., LA., J2J297-0485 or www./isa/c/ine.com.

CHILDREN'S MUSEUM
Sure, the new Kidspace in Pasadena is nifty, but the Bailey CHILDREN'S MUSEUM AT LA H A B R A is really hands-on. Moused in a 1023 train depot, it's got a big dress-up theater, a mini supermarket, a cool old caboose, a dinosaur garden, and a wild animal taxidermy room that invites youngsters to come and pet the fur. 301S. Euclid St., La Habra, 562-905-9793 or www.lhcm.org.

BanhMí
II
» 2Ó16 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323-913-1818 or www.kpsdeli.com.

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A u t h e n t i c i t y is o f t e n t h e false s t a n d a r d o f g o o d f o o d , e s p e c i a l ly t h o s e cuisines c o n s i d e r e d " e t h n i c . " M a n y a g r e a t dish has b e e n b o r n o f c r o s s - c u l t u r a l collisions b r o u g h t on by c o l o n i a l i s m, i m m i g r a t i o n , a n d necessity. T h e V i e t n a m e s e p o ' b o y k n o w n as banh mi ( w h o s e n a m e c o m e s f r o m t h e F r e n c h p a i n d e m/e, a soft l o a f o f s a n d w i c h b r e a d ) is one o f t h o s e inventions . T h e m o s t " a u t h e n t i c " shops—that is, t h e o n e s t h a t c a t e r t o an A s i a n clientele—are actuall y t h e m o s t A m e r i c a n i z e d in t h e i r p r e s e n t a t i o n . B r i g h t a n d clean a n d assembly-line e f f i c i e n t , t h e y d o t Valley B o u l e v a r d like f a s t - f o o d o u t l e t s ; t h e i r names—Mr. B a g u e t t e , B a g u e t t e Express, B a g u e t t e d u Jour—suggest a p r o l i f e r a t i o n of d r i v e - t h r u bakeries. Less t y p i c a l b u t m o r e i m p r e s s i v e is t h e b a n h mi at K P ' S , a t i n y n e i g h b o r h o o d d e l i in Silver Lake. T h e special c o m b o , or dac biet, k n o w n h e r e as KP's Kold Kut, begins w i t h a s o f t a n d c h e w y t u b e o f F r e n c h b r e a d , w h i c h is l a y e r e d w i t h a t r i o o f V i e t n a m e s e pork p r o d u c t s , i n c l u d i n g a r i c h s m e a r of p á t é . It is t h e n p i l e d high w i t h veggies: p i c k l e d c a r r o t s a n d d a i k o n , c u c u m b e r w e d g e s a n d c i l a n t r o , plus a f e w slices o f raw j a l a p e ñ o . T h e $5-55 p r i c e t a g is n o t e x a c t l y in k e e p i n g w i t h t h e b a n h m i e t h o s ( t h e same s a n d w i c h can go f o r as l i t t l e as S1.50 in t h e San G a b r i e l Valley), b u t KP's version is spectacular—big a n d s w e e t a n d spicy a n d gamy—and a n y t h i n g b u t t r a d i t i o n a l .

DOG HIKE
Hollywood's popular Runyon Canyon offers us panoramas, celebrity sightings, and stargaiing, but Bailey Canyon Park in Sierra Madre has our pooches scampering across rivulets, sniffing the elderberry, and gawking at mockingbirds. The CANYON VIEW NATURE TRAIL is a mile and a half round-trip, mostly along a creek, with a handful of crossstream zigzags. Our reward is the 40-foot waterfall at the path's peak. » 451 W. Carter Ave., Sierra Madre.

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ADAPTIVE REUSE
The offices for NATIONAL PROMOTIONS AND ADVERTISING, artist Gary Shafner's Palms firm, take recycling to the next level. A 1958 Greyhound Scenicruiser emerges from the converted brick warehouse each morning to become a lobby on wheels. A colossal roof beam has been reborn as a conference table. Shafner has even constructed a mock Yugo dealership for his production team, turning the tiny autos into desks. 3434 Overland Ave., L.A., 310-558-8555.

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TILE TABLES
The mosaic dining sets, coffee tables, and end tables at FURTHUR are scads more imaginative than their chainstore counterparts and can be had at one-third the price. The hand-laid pieces pay homage to the ceramics of the Italian Renaissance, the stained glass of art nouveau, even the cherry red Martian landscapes of '70s sci-fi. )> 4312 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323-660-3Ó01 or www.furthurla.com.

u immer rrocks
If a summer wedding is more the celebration of a union than the making of one— as in, you're just a guest—choosing t h e right dress can be a festive event unto itself. Starting on 3 r d Street, Kristin Londgren's luminous satin sheaths, ruched silk separates, and open backs hark back to the romance of a rising moon and big-band glamour. In Santa Monica, Australian designer Leona Edmiston's playful prints and cocktail-style little somethings travel well and stay up all night. Venice-based Pamela Barish, who has created outfits f o r Anjelica Huston and Lara Plynn Boyle, offers feminine updates of party classics. But t o really let loose for the occasion w e head to C A M I L L E FRANCES DEPEDRINI. located in the f o r m e r Sunny's cluster of boutiques in South Pasadena. DePedrini designs wedding gowns but also offers ready-to-wear f r o m o t h e r designers: she elevates mix-and-match to transcendent heights w i t h chiffon bolero jackets and e m b r o i d e r e d organza and beaded tanks paired w i t h hand-painted silk scarves. There are satin clutches shaped like leaves, lacy gloves, and a healthy selection of chic footwear. "They're all vintage inspired, taken f r o m the 1920s, '30s, I4OS, '50s," says DePedrini, who started as a party-dress designer in the Bay Area. She describes her ¡deal customer as "someone who wants to have fun with it and is open to trying things." » 7 0 0 7 ' / i Fair Oaks Ave., South Pasadena, 626-441-7868.

SPANISH CLASSES
Surprised that there was no language center in Los Angeles devoted just to Spanish, we did find a solid curriculum at the BEVERLY HILLS LINGUAL INSTITUTE, where you can divo into Spanish (as well as 24 other languages) in eight-weeklong courses that range from beginner to advanced, » 439 N. Canon Dr., Beverly Hills, 310Ö5Ö-07I7 or www.hhtingual.com.

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Brownies
You might think a bakery is the best place to scout for these jewels of childhood. Not necessarily. At THE FARM OF BEVERLY HILLS, chocolate fudge brownies arc stacked just so in a display ________ case near the front door, a dainty dusting of powdered sugar on each dense square. Moist, dark, and fudgy in the middle, they have a light, crisp top crust and melt on your tongue. Furthermore—oh joy. oh rapture—they are oven better a day, even two, after they're baked. These little confections are so above average you may well want to visit the Farm's Web site and have boxes of them shipped to friondsanywhere in the United States. They can also be put to wickedly good use in a brownie sundae. i> 439 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 3)0-273-5578; The Grove, 189 The Grove Dr., L.A., 323-525-1699: or www.brownies90210.com.

Arcade
Love video games but hate all the "Rated M for Mature" carnage? At JAPAN ARCADE in Little Tokyo, combatants can trade in their Uzis and AK-47S for drum kits and electric guitars. The video game Taiko no Tatsujin allows opponents to go head-to-head on large taiko drums (animated squid, badgers, and dragons cheer the winner), while wanna-be DJs and scratchors can battle on Beatmania III Append 7th Mix, where contestants play along to Japanese pop songs on dual keyboards and turntables. Gotta dance? Japan Arcade also has a slew of Dance Dance Revolution-style games. (A caveat: Many of the arcade's 40-plus machines only have instructions in Japanese, but most are pretty simple to figure out.) Clean, friendly, and relatively quiet, this is one of the least intimidating arcades in town, but don't come to duke it out on the weekends without first woodshodding at h o m e some contestants have clearly practiced songs and routines for hours. 333 S. Alameda St.. Sic. 206, L.A., 213-625-1486.

Horseback
idine
Set at t h e t o p o f O l d Topanga C a n y o n Road, L A H O R S E B A C K R I D I N G is h o m e t o a c o u p l e d o z e n w e l l - g r o o m e d horse s t h a t a r e "as fat as b u t t e r b a l l s , " says m a n a g e r Saskia S t r i c k . T h e r a n c h ( f o r m e r l y k n o w n as Escape o n H o r s e b a c k ) k e e p s t r a i l g r o u p s small. "It's n o f u n t o r i d e w i t h 2 0 p e o p l e in a singlef i l e line," says S t r i c k . W r a n g l e r s will t a k e t h e m o r e e x p e r i e n c e d a m o n g us u p t o a t r o t or a c a n t e r , w h i l e e v e r y o n e c a n e n j o y t h e views of t h e Valley basin a n d t h e Santa M o n i c a M o u n t a i n s . A f t e r t h e r i d e t h e horse s g e t a b a t h a n d a snack; t h e r e a r e s o m e nice d i n i n g o p t i o n s n e a r b y s h o u l d y o u d e s i r e a b i l e as w e l l . » 2623 Old Topanga Canyon Rd., Topanga, 81859Í-2032 or www./anorsebackric/iYic/.com.

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Limeade
All we have to do is walk through the VINE AMERICAN PARTY STORE to feel reason to rejoice. For more than 40 years the crowded emporium—down the street from Paramount Studioshas sold every party good imaginable, from tiki torches and ukuleles for luaus. to hot-flash fans for good-humored middleage birthdays, to fake clapboards, reels, and mini statuettes for Oscar to-dos, to a kaleidoscope of Mardi Gras beads. One room is packed with paper goods in shades Crayola has yet to tackle. The store proves that anything can be celebrated, including good service-don't hesitate to ask the friendly staff for help. » 5969 Me/rose Ave., L.A., 321-467-7124. The ginger limeade at Clementine in Century City has a Zenlike subtlety that gets us every time. We'd even deem it the best in L.A., were it not for the Border Grill's MlMTY LIME COOLER, an elixir with all the zip of a mojilo but none of the hangover—which is why it's been dubbed the Shirley Temple of the Cuban cocktail world. It's so fresh, it snaps. The goods? Freshly squeezed lime blended with sugar, sparkling water, and mint leaves (add some white rum and—presto—you're in Mojitoville). Border Grill serves it in a festive purple and orange glass with a wedge of lime on top. H 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, 310-451-1655 or www.bordergrill.com.

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Makeover

Getting a makeover at a department store used to be a gratis way to discover new makeup and maybe even a whole new look. Yes, there was an implied cost (guilt alone made you buy a few items) but no obligations. Things have changed. At Saks Fifth Avenue there are some lovely makeup artistsTommy Cyr at Stila comes to mind—but you must buy three items just to sit in the chair. At Barneys New York our favorite artist, BOBBY WELLS AT CHANTECAILLE. gave us a natural, sexy look without ever mentioning a required investment. We appreciated his tips and wise warnings, but it was a coworker's "You look great" and a child's "My mommy is so beautiful today" that won us over. » 9570 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. 310-276-4400.

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DIAPER SERVICE
"Would you wear paper underwear?" asks Brian O'Neil, the owner of OY-DEE DIAPER SERVICE, L.A.'s sole surviving cloth-diaper service. Cofounded by O'Neil's father in 1938, the company delivers 70.000 freshsmelling diapers to l.ioo families weekly. The cushy all-cotton nappies are easier on the environment, your budget, and little tushes. » 800-803-9333 or www.dy-dee.com.

SECONDHAND JEANS
Robert Rifkin has racks and stacks of used 501s from as far back as the 40s. Me also has a sowing machine. Bring your dusty Levi's to his 250-squareFoot RUFCUT, and he'll lower the waist, add a boot cut, fix the fade, and repair-or add-a hole. "I can torture them," Rifkin says. » 71344 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310-473-LEYI or www.rufcut.com.

Architectural Salvage
s o m e r e s t o r a t i on itself, and Santa Fe W r e c k i n g focuses m o s t l y o n t h e b a t h r o o m . O l d e A R C H I T E C T U R A L DETAIL in Pasadena is s u p r e m e . O w n e r s Skip and Janice Willett' s tile, even o l d - g r o w t h r e d w o o d r e t r i e v e d f r o m local r e m o d e l i n g a n d d e m o l i t i o n sites.

Historical accuracy is fine, b u t the m o s t g r a t i f y i n g b e n e f i t of restorin g that o l d house t o its

p r e w a r splendor is t h e h a r m o n y that c o m e s f r o m living in a space t h a t feels r i g h t . T h e key is f i n d i n g g o o d architectural salvage. D o w n t o w n ' s Freeway Building Materials c o u l d use G o o d Things o p e n e d this year just s o u t h o f d o w n t o w n w i t h an impressive c o l l e c t i o n of d e c o r a t i v e elements—pressed-tin ceiling tiles, stained glass, w r o u g h t iron—from t h e East C o a s t and Buenos Aires. Silvorlake A r c h i t e c t u r a l Salvage r e c e n t ly m a d e an eve n s t r o n g e r d e b u t , o f f e r i n g 8 . 0 0 0 square f e e t of e n o r m o u s e n t r y d o o r s , built-in b u f f e t s a n d h u t c h e s, w o o d - f r a m e windows, a n d a n t i q u e ovens. For overall s e l e c t i on and e x p e r t i s e , however, 15,000-square-foot warehous e is p a c k e d w i t h w e l l - p r e s e r v e d vintage t o i l e t s , baths, sinks, doors, hinges, escutcheons, d o o r k n o b s , h e a t i n g registers, h a r d w o o d f l o o r i n g , w i n d o w s , (Thousands m o r e feet of r o o f i n g and o t h e r materials are s t o r e d off-site.) True, m u c h o f t h e warehous e is l i m i t e d to e m p l o y e e s — " We e x p e c t p e o p l e t o k n o w w h a t they w a n t w h e n they c o m e in," Janice s a y s - a n d kids a r e f o r b i d d e n on t h e premises. But t h e W i l l e t t s are d e e p l y k n o w l e d g e a b l e and indispensable w h e n you'r e l o o k i n g f o r a pristine d e c o t u b or a

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BAR BAND
When we first heard the trio's name, we weren't sure what to expect. Country? Spoof? Turns out it's both and more. JACKSHIT are top-notch veteran session players letting their hair down—they joke through and harmonize exquisitely on everything from the 5th Dimension to Johnny Cash to Jimi Hendrix. The Baked Potato is home base when everyone's in town, and you never know who might sit in. N Baked Potato, 3787 Cahucnga Blvd. West, Studio City, S1S-980-J615 or www-f in-' hakedpot ato. com.

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full set of m a t c h i n g solid-core d o o r s . " W e f i n e - t u n e , f i n e - t u n e , f i n e - t u n e , " Janice says. " W e try to h e l p p e o p l e restore t h e i r house t o as close t o the original as t h e y c a n . " » 2449 White St., Pasadena, 626-844-6670 or www.architecturaldetail.net.

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GAS STATION
There's one thing moro painful to us than freeway traffic: paying for it at the pump. But tho EXXON AT FAIRFAX AND BEVERLY offers a spectacular oasis, with Us antique French roofing and a moat bordered by plants native to the Nile. The 16 pumps operate 24Í7, and the unfcaded is among Mid City's cheapest. » 7900 Beverly Blvd., i.A., 323-935-2322.

PEDICURE
Pedicure buffs know that a long-lasting polish is nothing without an even longer foot scrub and rub. At FREDERIC FEKKAI SALON, Tien or Sarah will spend more than 30 minutes making all those rough spots disappear—using four different files and the salon's signature shea butter creambefore toes are touched. 440 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-777-Ö700 or www.frederlcfekkai.com.

Last-Minute Gifts
It's nearly impossible t o k e e p your hands o f f the m e r c h a n d i s e at T O R T O I S E . A b o u t t h e size o f a tansu chest, t h e s h o p is d e v o t e d t o shibui, t h e Japanese idea of peerless

FILM BENEFACTOR
Fifty percent of all films made before 1951 have boon lost to decay. Perhaps that's why riotous applause from film buffs accompanies the introduction of Warner Bros, vice president RICHARD MAY at screenings of restored classics. "He's one of the good guys," says film critic Leonard Maltin. Overseeing the world's largest motion picture library, May sets the standard for preservation and has spearheaded restorations of An Amencan in Paris, 200): A Space Odyssey, and Singin in the Rain.

b e a u t y . T h e ceramics, textiles, m e t a l o b j e c t s , a n d w o o d w o r k h e r e , m a d e w i t h an abiding r e v e r e n c e f o r ancient m e t h o d s and tools—and t h e k e e n eye t h a t h a n d w o r k develops— are new y e t timeless, simple yet c o m p l e x . T h e designs b e l o n g t o n o p a r t i c u l ar ism. Take t h e store's m a s c o t , a little c o p p e r and t i n wasabi g r a t e r in the shape of ( w h a t else?) a t o r t o i s e . A smithy taps o u t each razor-sharp t o o t h t o f o r m an irregular p a t t e r n , says coo w n e r Keiko S h i n o m o t o , "becaus e the r o u g h e r surface makes g r a t i n g easier and faster a n d p r o d u c e s t h e f i b r o u s t e x t u r e t h a t brings o u t flavor." A K y o t o - m a d e t e a leaf c o n t a i n e r , lined w i t h p e w t e r , is h a n d - s o l d e r e d so p e r f e c t l y t h a t t h e c y l i n d r i c a l l i d d r i f t s d o w n on its o w n over t h e canister, ingeniously f o r c i n g o u t air t o f o r m a v a c u u m seal. A wappa c u p . a small t u m b l e r c o i l e d f r o m 2 5 0 - y e a r - o l d v e r t i c a l - g r a i n e d cedar. is practically w e i g h t l e ss b u t insulates h o t a n d c o l d as e f f i c i e n t l y as any space-age foil. S h i n o m o t o and her h u s b a n d , Taku, w h o designs f u r n i t u r e a n d co-owns t h e shop , trave l t o t h e i r nativ e c o u n t r y f o u r t i m e s a year, searching f o r things, she says, " t h a t already have a long history a n d will last a lon g t i m e . " » 120S A b b o t Blvd., Venice, 310-314-8448 or Kinney www.tortoiselife.com.

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Cat Kennel
They want to stay homo; we know better. At the CAT HOTEL in Burbank, felines get the kind of attention they demand of us at homo: plenty of food, exercise, nap time, and heavy petting. The immaculate facility houses three-level private "condos" outfitted with carpeting, couches, pillows, pans, toys, tepees, and TVs (tuned to Animal Planet, natch) and offering views of the goings-on of the other guests. Happy campers can pounce through the Enchanted Forest, a grove of cedars for scratching, climbing, and hiding, or cruise the Rue d'Rouge, an "alley" with kitty graffiti by an artist of the two-legged variety. A stereo system pumps out the sounds of nature—or the more enervating soundtrack from Cats—while the round-the-clock staff watch over their charges and keep records on habits and needs. » )S07 W. Magnolia Blvd.. Burbank, 818-845-0222.

Man


The proliferation of today's mobile must-haves has long since exceeded the capacity of a man's pockets. The well-dressed male must now confront the trickiest accessory in the non-fairersex wardrobe: the man bag. To our surprise we found a cache of nifty '70s camera bags made of stylish yet gender-appropriate, weather-resistant black (or brown) pleather H U •*'. • • in the suporfunky environs of Frank's Highland Park Camera. They're a steal at SIO apiece but might be a tad too downmarket for a night out, which led us to DEAN, in Silver Lake. The shop makes a chic and discreet Látigo leather messenger bag (in eight shades) that would look smart on you whether you're going on a job interview or cashing in your IRA. » 3918 W, Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323-665-2766 or www.deanaccessories.com.

Waffles
A good waffle is more than just an ironed pancake, something greater than the sum of batter and syrup. It must be crispy and golden on the outside, but not crunchy. It must be light and chewy on the inside, but not mushy. Most important, it must be able to stand on its own, to entice without resorting to creams and fruits—in short, to be breakfast and not dessert. CANTER'S DELICATESSEN is such an unlikely venue for waffle perfection that it may take a few minutes to even find the $4.75 dish on the menu. But the search is w o r th the effort: What you get is a thick but airy discus stamped with muscular grooves and creases, unassuming yet unabashed. It needs nothing more than butter, which comes in a saucer, already melted. )> 419 N. Fairfax Ave.. L.A.. 323-6512030 or www.cantersdelt.com.

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Makeup
W h e n Dineh Mohajer launched Hard Candy here t e n years ago, we couldn' t get enough of the pastel blue nail polishes and t h e g l i t t e r y charcoal shadows. Now w i t h business p a r t n e r Jeanne Chavez she has i n t r o d u c e d G O L D I E , a Pasadona-based line that's less t r e n d y and more indie, w i t h color kits that can be layered or mixed and m a t c h e d (the "Face Kit" offers six shades of lip gloss alone). Its "sweet-meets-street" m.o. is t h e reason why t h e glosses have cute names like " V e l v e t e e n " and " P o m m e " but also explains the pink doodles on the packaging shaped like skulls and wild animals. W h i l e o t h e r L.A. labels go after t h e same cool vibe, Goldie is a way to express your nice and naughty selves at once. M At Bath & Body Works, www.bafrianc/boc/yworks.com. Getting strapped into seals that dangle off the sides of a track, not on it or below it, was harrowing enough. But what wo didn't realize as we ascended, backward, a 200-foot-high hill was that those seats on Six Flags Magic Mountain's X roller coaster can rotate 360 degrees. Yes, those were our bloodcurdling screams as we found ourselves over the crest of that hill and hurtling face-first down an 89-degree drop to the fast-approaching pavement. A load of twists, turns, and loops followed, and it took a couple of days for blood to return to our knuckles. No amount of time waiting in line will ever kill the buzz when you walk off X and realize you are still breathing. » 2ÓI01 Magic Mountain Pkwy., Valencia, 661255-4IOO, SlS-307-5965, or www.su/7ags.com/parks/magiCmoufifain/indcx.ci5p.

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Cal l M A R K ' S G A R D E N at n o o n a n d b y T p . m . an autumnal creation brimming with cymbidium orchids, h y b r i d t e a roses, a n d a s m a t t e r i n g o f k u m q u a t s will arrive at y o u r l o v e d one's desk. A l t h o u g h o w n e r s M a r k H e l d a n d Richard D a v i d can't give e x a c t d e l i v e r y t i m e s , w i t h e i g h t t r u c k s c o n t i n u a l l y on t h e r o a d t h e y k n o w your posies will m a k e Cedars-Sinai's f l o r a l d e l i v e r y c u t o f f o f 4 p.m. a n d w h i c h gate t o pull up t o a t P a r a m o u n t . D e l i v e r y p r i c e s vary a c c o r d i n g t o l o c a t i o n , f r o m t h e shop's Valley n e i g h b o r h o o d (íó.75 t o $10.75) t o t h e W e s t s i d e ($10.75) t o Pasadena ($14.75). T h e s e b u d s a r e f o r you—just as t h e y ' ve b e e n f o r O p r a h ' s M o n t e c i t o bashes, Presley b i r t h d a y p a r t i e s , a n d J.Lo's a n d H e i d i Klum's s e c o n d w e d d i n g s . » 13838 Blvd.. Sherman Oaks, 800-416-8761 or www.marksgarden.net. Ventura

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FREE KIDS' ENTERTAINMENT
Once a month between October and May. the Pasadena Symphony's MUSICAL CIRCUS rolls into the stately Pasadena Civic Auditorium. First there's the half-hour Petting Zoo, where kids can fiddle with table upon table of instruments. Then comes a lighthearted performance—classical, pop, or otherwise. The Los Angeles Children's Chorus was a favorite last season. >) 300 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626-793-7172 or www.pasaaenasymphony.org/c/rcus.iilm.

LOCAL SINGER
She sings "I Love Paris" on Paris Hilton's lewd Carl's Jr. commercial, but hot ELENI MANDELL is not. She's one of the coolest singers to ever call Los Angeles home. Her voice lazily honing a lyric down to its essence, Mandell sings everything from jazz to new wave but sounds best when a little twang floats in on a breeze and a trace of country underscores her ineffable sense of drift. » www.elenimandell.com.

Bar Menu
The bar menu at TOWER BAR, the sumptuously o u t f i t t e d lounge-cum-liquor station at the Argyle Hotel, is a bit overqualified for the j o b . C h e f Collin Crannell. f o r m e r l y of Patina, Water Grill, and Chloe (the best thing that's happene d to Playa del Roy in years) is at t h e helm here. His is first-rate bistro f o o d that welcomes the California input of our farmers' markets. His red beet salad i n c o r p o r a t es grapes and H u m b o l d t Fog, a house salad has seasonal veggies, and steak t a r t a r e comes w i t h a quail egg. Entrees include steak halibut w i t h seasonal vegetables, and cófe de boeuffor frites. two. Pastry chef M i h o Travi, ex of Sona, has t h e last w o r d w i t h b e a u t i f u l d e s s e r t s : / r o m a g e blanc cheesecake, crepes, and fresh frui t ice creams and granitas. The hotel's now owner, Jeff Klein, clearly likes e m ployees w i t h pedigrees. The semilegendary D i m i t r i Dimitrov, until recently t h e m a i t r e d ' at Diaghilev, has j o i n ed the t e a m , and Paul Fortune, the wizard behind Tom Ford's pad in Paris. designed t h e rooms. The palett e is a handsome one of burnished tones and lush fabrics. Romantic banquettes line the windows, freestandin g tables are airily spaced, a n d the adjacent lounge has plush sofas and chairs. Overall. Tower Bar exudes the fee! of an exclusive men's club, but the ladies will feel c o m f o r t a b l e claiming it as their o w n . » Ö35S W. Sunset Blvd.. West Hollywood, S23-654-7100 or www.argytehotet.com.

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HAIR HELP
If bad-hair days outnumber good ones, try enlisting in MURIEL M'S HAIR BOOT CAMP at Point de Vue Salon. For two hours and 200 bucks you learn how to master that blow-dryer and re-create a salon style at home, find out which products to toss, and "come to accept what your hair can do and can't," says salon owner Muriel Mastey. » 152 N. Wetherly Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-273-1231-

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SMALL PLATES
The A.O.C. team of Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne legitimized the small-plates movement early on and simultaneously galvanized its hipnoss—not an easy bit of business. The trend shows no sign of abating, and neither does this bastion of modestly proportioned delicacies. A.O.C. still rocks. » Ö022 W.3rdSL. LA. 323-653-6359 or www.aocwinebar.com.

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SHIATSU MASSAGE
At West L.A.'s MASSAGE THERAPY CENTER, your muscles will be pulled and drilled and cajoled into blissful submission. After the pressurized maslcrwork is completed, you may well experience an afternoon in which the sum total of bodily stress, for once, adds up to exactly zero. » 2130 5awte//e Blvd., West LA., 310-444-8989 or www.massagenow.coni.

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Snowboard Shop
As s n o w b o a r d i n g has g r o w n increasingly s o p h i s t i c a t e d , w i t h m o r e styles o f r i d i n g a n d r i d e r s t h a n e v e r ( t h e y o u t n u m b e r skiers now), b o a r d shops have m a t u r e d in k i n d . S m i t t e n S n o w b o a r d i n g a n d S t r e e t w e a r f o r W o m e n , w h i c h o p e n e d last fall in Pasadena, gets b i g ups f o r its range o f f e m a l e - s p e c i f ic g e a r in a t e s t o s t e r o n e - f r e e e n v i r o n m e n t , a n d Val Surf in Valley Village sets i t s e l f a p a r t w i t h its g r e a t s e l e c t i o n a n d c u s t o m e r s e r v i c e . Still, w e haven't f o u n d any place b e t t e r t h a n Z J B O A R D I N G H O U S E , w h o s e i n v e n t o r y is a l m o s t as i m p r e s s i v e as its highly t r a i n e d staff. " W e ' r e n e r d s o v e r h e r e a b o u t s n o w b o a r d i n g stuff." says b u y e r Jason B e n d e w i s h . w h o m i g h t s p e n d as many as six h o u r s h e l p i n g c u s t o m e r s achieve t h e o p t i m a l f i t . Every s u m m e r a n d fall t h e s h o p also a f a v o r i t e f o r its skate- a n d s u r f b o a r d selections—hold s clinics, w h e r e v e n d o r s t e a c h e m p l o y e e s a b o u t t h e i r n e w p r o d u c t s , a n d it f o l l o w s up w i t h s t o r e - l e d s t a f f clinics t h r o u g h o u t t h e year. T h e n in February, e m p l o y e e s l a k e o f f t o M a m m o t h t o d e m o b o a r ds f o r t h e c o m i n g year so t h a t w h e n t h e y ' r e selling t h e m , t h e y can speak f r o m p e r s o n a l k n o w l e d g e . As f o r t u n i n g , Z J is o n e of t h e o n l y shops in t o w n t o have a stone g r i n d e r — t he same e q u i p m e n t m a n u f a c t u r e r s use t o f i n i sh t h e r i d i n g s u r f a c e of t h e i r boards—and m o s t of t h e store's technicians h a v e at least f o u r years' e x p e r i e n c e . But if it is simply s u p e r f l y p a n t s y o u w a n t , Z J , w h i c h is e x p a n d i n g i n t o t h e b u i l d i n g next door, has t h o s e, t o o . ) ) 2ÓJ9 M a i n St., 5 a n ( o Monica, 310-392-5646 or www.zjboardinghouse.com.

FAMILY GUIDEBOOK
With more than 1,800 things to do and see, Susan Peterson's FUN AND EDUCATIONAL PLACES TO GO WITH KIDS AND ADULTS IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA (Fun Places Publishing, $20.95) has the competition beat on volume alone. But we also fancy the book for its more offbeat selections, like tours through a candle factory, walks on a worm farm or through an Arabian horse center, and outings to observe naturalization ceremonies. i> www./unolaces.com.

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Haircut
They're trucked into a funny-smelling place, plunked onto an odd contraption, and forced to sit still while some stranger with large, shiny scissors snips away at them. Why shouldn't toddler!, bo horrified by the mere mention i of a haircut? But tears are sparse at LOLLICUT, a spacious kids' salon where the walls are covered with colorful murals of Disney characters, the seats are elevated Barbie cars and Jeep Wranglers, and the view is a big-screen TV showing Barney and Shrek, There's also a clean, carpeted area filled with games and toys to keep crawlers and toddlers occupied before and, if need bo. after the $18 cut. Just don't forget the cookies and lollies on the way out. » ISÓÓ3 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana. 818-342-6171.

If we're after a coffee-table book for the delights of conspicuous consumption, we'll go to the avowedly chic Taschen bookstore on Beverly Drive, where it's easy to spend hundreds on a single tome. But if self-indulgence isn't the aim, ^••jpaa and it's something rare or commonplace we want, from a slender spiral-bound volume on interior designer Paul Laszlo to a David Plowden photo-essay, then it's off to ARCANA: BOOKS ON THE ARTS in Santa Monica. The narrow space houses owner Lee Kaplan's obsessively wellorganized assemblage of 100,000 titles, many of which are in the back room, out of sight but not entirely out of reach. The store, which has been on the 3rd Street Promenade for 18 years, is like a catalogue raisonné of modern art, architecture, photography, design, fashion, and film. Hero's where we find Huntington Beach skateboard legend Ed Templeton's photo-meditations on wasted youth near the machine fantasies of futurist architect Antonio Sant' Elia and much, much more. » 12293rd Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310-458-1499 or www.arcanabooks.com.

Bread
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Danielle Keene. a veritable designer of bread puddings, p r e-

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sents seasonal collections. In fall, the BLAIR'S pastry chef, w h o previously w o r k e d at W a t er Grill, Campanile, and A . O . C , is apt to serve a spiced squash variety, soaking brioche in a custard flavored w i t h brown sugar, cinnamon, and n u t m e g and layering it w i t h b u t t e r n u t squash puree b e f o r e baking. The pudding is served b o t t o m side up (so that t h e caramelized brioche is on top) w i t h creme fraiche ice cream. In spring, she might serve an apricot-almond rendition , and for summer she's thinking nectarine. "That one." Keene says, "I think I'll serve w i t h lemon verbena ice cream." » 29OJ Rowena Ave.. Silver Lake, 323-660-1882.

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Hawai Shirts

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p r e h e n s i v e Hawaiian shirt e m p o r i u m . Not e v e n o n O a h u or M a u i have w e f o u n d such a c o l l e c t i o n by classic, up-and-coming, and defiantly obscure d e s i g n e rs as at Gih's PARADISE B O U N D in L o n g Beach's B e l m o n t S h o r e . Reyn Spooners and Tommy Bahamas are in p r o f u -

In 1965, w h e n t h e shore s of Waikiki w e r e still relativel y low-rise a n d D o n Ho was a year away f r o m r e l e a s i n g "Tiny B u b b l e s , " S t e p h e n Gih's p a r e n t s o p e n e d w h a t would become Southern California's m o s t c o m -

Indian

Ptactauran.'
It seems counterintuitive to our counter intelligence not to drive to Artesia for a fiery bowl of vindaloo. Old Pasadena's All India Café, West Hollywood's Surya India, West L.A.'s Bombay Café, and Beverly Hills' Tamarin serve significant spicy-sweet masalct closets and heavenly ginger-grilled fish. But the lavish digs of MAURYA take the game to a higher plane. Adjust to the plush sofas and silkcovered stools and experience chef J.K. Paul's deft rejiggering of coriander and fenugreek, turmeric and cilantro. His chicken tikka másala is blanketed in tomato gravy redolent of honey and black cumin, his coconut lamb curry spiced with ginger and fennel. Your waiter may be wearing a uniform trimmed in silver brocade, but it's the food that wears the pants here. > 151 S. Doheny Dr., Beverly Hills, > 310-786-7858 or www.mauryabeverlyhills.com.

sion a l o n g s i d e smaller n a m e s like K 0 K 0 Island a n d Tori Richards, b u t w e w e r e p a r t i c u l a r l y d r a w n t o a s h i r t by Guy B u f f e t , w h i c h s p o r t s a p a g e a n t of m u u m u u - c l a d dogs c a v o r t i n g b e n e a t h a c a n o p y of p a l m s . > 5287 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, 562> 434-6656. 877-582-8846. or www./ucfutime.corn.

B e f o r e all t h e t r a c t houses, t h e r e w e r e oranges, millions of oranges. A t t h e e n d of t h e 19th c e n t u r y , t h e San G a b r i e l Valley was b o o m i n g w i t h a g r i c u l t u r e. C i t r u s fields s t r e t c h e d f r o m t h e Los A n g e l es River t o Riverside a n d b e y o n d . T h e t i n y f o o t h i l l t o w n o f Sierra M a d r e always charms us w i t h its historic village a t m o s p h e r e and annual W i s t e r i a Festival, but it's that last r e m a i n i ng orange grove, t h e o n e E. W A L D O W A R D p l a n t e d in 1891, that really warms our hearts and makes history c o m e alive. J e f f W a r d cultivate s t h e nearly t h r e e acres l e f t of his great-grandfather's groves, p r o d u c i n g a line of g o u r m e t jams, jellies, a n d p r e s e r v e s . H e also o f f e r s tasty relishes, m a r i n a d e s , a n d olives. S a m p l e s o m e m a r m a l a d e , t a k e a tour, a n d p i n e f o r a carriage r i d e h o m e . » 273 E. Ave., Sierra Madre, 800-355-9273 or Highland www.waldoward.com.

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EN ESPAÑOL BAND
Bilingual garage rockers GO BETTY GO channel Blondie and the B-52's while reeling in punk and pop for a hardcore sound with soul. With sisters Aixa and Nicolette Vilar on drums and vocals, Michelle Rangel on bass, and Betty Cisneros on a guitar spewing cathartic power chords, the band redefines Latin alternarock. )> www.gobetlygo.com.

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DIY JEWELRY
Rows cf abalone shell, agate, silk cord, and sea glass line SEMIPRECIOUS, a sunny salon where the inspired can relax to the music and borrow tools to make wearable pieces of art. All thumbs? Take a lesson—wine is served at the happy-hour class— or let owner Amy Weber do the crimping and knotting for you. J) 7023 Monfana Ave, Santa Monica, 3ÍO-899-OPJO.

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W h e n it c o m e s t o kids' toys, w e ' r e sucker s f o r w o o d e n b l o c k s a n d s t a c k i n g rings, f o r d o l l h o u s e s and minuscule villages, f o r f a i r y wings a n d r e f i n e d tea sets t h a t kick-star t c r e a t i v i t y w i t h o u t t h e h e l p o f A A b a t t e r i e s . W e love t h e f a b u l o u s l y c o m p r e h e n s i v e c o l l e c t i o n of playthings at San M a r i n o Toy a n d Book S h o p p e , w h i c h has b e e n a r o u n d since 1975- B u t it was a r e v e l a t i o n w h e n w e d i s c o v e r e d t h e A C O R N S T O R E , w h i c h o w n e r Ellen W e s t o p e n e d n e a r l y t h r e e years ago in Santa M o n i c a n e x t d o o r t o a Waldorf School, a private elementary that discourages television and videos and e n c o u r a g es fantasy play. W e s t d o e s n ' t o f f e r a single t h i n g r e q u i r i n g e l e c t r i c i t y o r m a d e of plastic. Her shop , d e c o r a t e d w i t h murals a n d d r i p p i n g w i t h m o b i l e s t h a t i n c l u d e a s h e e p h e r d c r a n d his f l o c k , recalls an e n c h a n t e d Bavarian forest—no s u r p r i s e , g i v e n t h a t t h e owner, a f o r m e r i n t e r i o r d e c o r a t o r , was b o r n in rural C z e c h o s l o v a k i a. " W i t h t h e toys I carry, c h i l d r e n c a n e x t e n d t h e i r i m a g i n a t i o n m u c h f u r t h e r t h a n if t h e y w o r e r e a d i n g a s t o r y f r o m a b o o k , " says W e s t , w h o has p a c k e d her small space w i t h racks o f d r e s s - up c l o t h e s , doll prams, a n d all m a n n e r of w o o d toys, f r o m t h e G e r m a n H a b a line to f a r m animals t o c h o o - c h o o t r a i ns t o h o m e s b u i l t f o r g n o m e s a n d kings a n d q u e e n s . She even sells a w o o d tricycle. " I just love c h i l d r e n , " says West, " a n d I love b e a u t i f u l toys." » I220 5th St.. Santa Monica. 310-451-5845 or [email protected].

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SALAD BAR
At MRS. WINSTON'S GREEN GROCERY STORES, run by Mrs. Winston and her sons Eddy and Corey, immaculate salad bars are the focus-, they're vibrant marriages of quantity and quality. Their bins contain myriad lettuces, seasonal vegetables, and assorted legumes, as well as chicken, cheese, pastas, and— popular with the vegan set— peanut-braised and savory tofu. » 2901 Oceon Park Blvd., Santa Monica, 310-452-7770; Water Garden, 2450 Colorado Blvd.. Santa Monica, 310-31S-2777Opening soon: 7999 ¿venue 0/ the Stars. Century City.

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FACIAL DEAL
The óo-minuto facials offered at FRESH in Sunset Plaza are noninvasive, which means no extractions or steam to relax pores. Pricing is competitive, and in a two-for-one deal the $125 to S150 worth of treatment can be applied to the purchase of the store's skin care and bath products. » 8671 W, Sunset Blvd.. West Hollywood, 310-3608811 or www.fresh.com.

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FOIE GRAS
Made from the liver of ducks and geese, foio gras may be controversial these days, but chefs are still keen, preparing all sorts of extravagant versions. We love the one at NORMAN'S: seared and served between layers of W3rm French toast, with passion fruit caramel and a pineapple, mango, and papaya salsa. > 8570 W. Sunset Blvd.. West > Hollywood, 3IO-057-24OO or www.normans.com.

KID-FRIENDLY RESTAURANT
We go to Dish in La Canada for homey all-Amcrican food and Border Grill in Santa Monica for nouvoau Mexican. But for the quintessential L.A. kids' menu, it's hard to beat the multicultural mix at CURRY HOUSE in Little Tokyo. Happy, patient servers offer children a choice of Japanese curry. chicken teriyaki. or spaghetti, along with fronch fries, corn soup, shrimp, and a Disney mini toy. » 123 Onizuka St., Sie. 204. LA.. 213-620-OB55. For other locations, go to www.house-foods.com/curry_house.html.

Dessert Shop
C o o k i e s , cakes, a n d pies—these a r e n o t , s t r i c t l y s p e a k i n g , n e c e s s i t i e s. T h e y ' r e t h e single-use luxuries w e use t o t o a s t success, n u m b m i s f o r t u n e , or, p u t simply, m a k e ourselve s happy. S U S I N A B A K E R Y t a k e s this r e s p o n s i b i l i t y s e r i o u s ly a n d ups t h e a n t e : T h e place, d e s i g n e d like an o l d - w o r l d F r e n c h p a s t r y shop , is e x u b e r a n t . T h e glassf r o n t e d cases a r e f i l l e d w i t h k i w i - a n d s t r a w b e r r y - t o p p e d tarts, c h o c o l a t e t o r t e s shining w i t h d e c a d e n c e , c h e e s e c a k es i n f u s e d w i t h f r e s h m a n d a r i n oranges, a n d cakes d r u n k w i t h figs. T h e banana c r e a m pies are i n d i v i d u a l size, a n d t h e croissants a r e q u i t e possibly t h e b e s t in t h e city, e m e r g i n g f r o m t h e r o t a t i n g racks o f o v e n s v i s i b l e f r o m t h e c o u n t e r . W e love t h e c o f f e e a n d , especially, t h e t i n y c o o k i e s — m a c a r o o n s , vanilla w a f e r s , b i s c o t t i , m a r z i p a n squiggles—that m a k e ideal d i n n e r - p a r t y g i f t s , as l o n g as y o u d o n ' t p o l i s h t h e m o f f e n r o u t e . T h e walls a r e l i n e d w i t h giant j a r s of i m p o r t e d candies, a n d all s o r t s o f specialty a c c o u t r e m e n t s a r e o n display. T h e real c o n f e c t i o n in t h e o p e r a t i o n is o m n i p r e s e n t o w n e r J e n n a Turner, w h o seems t o k n o w all her c u s t o m e r s a n d asks a f t e r t h e i r p e t s by n a m e . H e r a u n t Jacki e is a t a r o t c a r d p r o a n d d o e s readings by a p p o i n t m e n t . Have a seat at o n e o f t h e b i s t r o t a b l e s a n d look t o t h e f u t u r e . )> 7122 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323-934-7900 or www.susinabakcry.com.

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I I THE BEST OF LA I I

We know it doesn't really matter where we buy our tickets, but when it comes to the lottery, luck trumps logic every time. That's why a giant jackpot will get us to spend hours waiting in line at BLUEBIRD LIOUOR. the tiny Hawthorne store that sells more tickets than booze. Bluebird loads Los Angeles County with four top winners and is second in the state in sales. Owner Frank Kumamoto expects business to keep booming with the arrival of the multistate MEGA Millions. Then again, that game's suporsize prizes may just tempt us to cross the Ventura County line to Port Huenemo and Allan's Market & Wine Lotto, whose six big-money winners make it number one in California. )> 13746 Hawthorne Blvd.. Hawthorne, 310-675-6766.

ace to av Lotto Tamales
At Christmas the line outside TAMALES LILIANA's starts at 5 a.m. The rest of the year the atmosphere is both languid and bustling. A mother spoons the first bites of a famal for her infant daughter, young boys eye the old-fashioned candy dispensers, a table of welders does justice to a selection of sopes with stewed carne deshebrada and pozole with shredded cabbage and lime. But it is the magical just-steamed freshness of the tamales that makes the place special. Behind the counter, opened corn husks are filled with ground corn, stewed pork in a red chile sauce, green peppers, and Monterey Jack, or for a dessert version, pineapple and raisins. » 3448 E. 1st St., Boyle Heights, 323-780-0829.

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Flip-FI
We wear them with a bathing suit to the beach, and we wear them with a beaded tunic to A.O.C. We need lots of flip-flops, and sometimes that pair we picked up on the Venice Boardwalk simply won't cut it. PAL.ISKATE5 can stock the closet without emptying the wallet. Along with the old standards Reef and Rainbow, the skate shop carries one of the biggest selections of Haviannas in town. But what differentiates the place from your run-of-the-mill flip-flop purveyor is the higher-end yet affordable styles: The Italian-made Fornarinas have a supercomfortable molded foot bed, Arleen C combines terry cloth with rhinestones. and Dolce Vita's metallics match almost anything. "We try to find the cool stuff that doesn't look cheap but is inexpensive and fun," says owner Erica Simpson. After all, they're just flip-flops. » 1019 Swori/imore Ave., Pacific Palisades, 310-230-6085.

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AFFORDABLE WOMEN'S DAY SPA
A lady in need of rejuvenation can soak up the wonders of the supcrtidy and charmingly clubby OLYMPIC SPA in Koroatown for just S15, which entitles the stressed to a full day's use of hot and cold mineral pools, wet and dry saunas, oxygen rooms and heated sleeping floors, and even a bowl of seaweed soup. :> 3915 W. Olympic Blvd.. L.A.. 323-8570666 or www.olympicspala.com.

CARAMELS
You've seen them at the farmers' markets or propped up by the register at the gourmet deli and at the cheese or chocolate shop. Christine Moore's buttery handmade LITTLE FLOWE CANDY CO. caramels come in cellophane bags tied with pastel ribbons. We're partial to the sea salt flavor, a chewy balance of our favorite food groups. 323-551-5948 or www.lititeflowercandyco.com.

MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT
T h e sun, t h e ocean spray, a sackload o f halibut—it d o e s n 't g e t m u c h b e t t e r f o r anglers than P I E R P O I N T L A N D I N G in L o n g B e a c h . As w i t h so many things in S o u t h e r n California, l o c a t i o n is everything . N e x t d o o r t o t h e A q u a r i u m of t h e Pacific, P i e r p o i n t p r o vides a clean, r i f f r a f f - f r e e environment—a relative rarity f o r local landings—and q u i c k e r access t o p r i m e fishing spots. O t h e r L o n g B e a c h - a n d San P e d r o - b a s e d b o a t s have t o travel an extra hour t o reach t h e w a t e r s in Pierpoint's b a c k y a r d . Its f l e e t of 12 boat s o f f e r s newbies a n d o l d salts half-day cruises a n d o v e r n i g h t e r s , as well as w h a l e - w a t c h i ng a n d dive trips, and t h e r e are special rates f o r kids a n d g r o u p s (ask l o n g t i m e manager J a m e s Tani f o r details). W h i l e on b o a r d y o u w o n ' t d i n e like a king ( b u r r i t o s and burgers are stand a r d fare), b u t t h e crews are f r i e n d l y a n d eager t o h e l p novices, a n d t h e catches, d u t i f u l l y n o t e d in t h e local p a p e r s, are consistently s o m e o f the highest in t h e area. You may neve r The cooking at MANDALOUN draws on a wealth of fish, flatbreads, and farmhouse tradition, and an ambience echoing Beirut's glamorous nightlife. Lemon juice and olive oil run through chef Michel Chammaa's preparations, like the fresh, large-curd hallaum cheese served on warm kataj bread. Weekends feature crooners, belly dancers, and the scent of nargile smoke issuing from the courtyard. » 141S. Maryland Ave., Glendale, 8)8-507-1900 or www.mandalounusa.com.

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land a 272-pound y e l l o w f i n like t h e o n e a d o r n i n g a wall in t h e P i e r p o i n t o f f i c e , b u t you'd be hard-pressed t o f i n d a nicer nautical excursion f o r 3 0 bucks a n d a r o d r e n t a l foe. » 2 0 0 A q u a r i u m Way, Long Beach, 562-983-9300 or www.pierpoint.nef.

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Microbrews
Millions of gallons of beer are consumed in Los Angeles County every year, most of it weak and watery and mass-produced. Maybe it's the warm weather, maybe it's L.A.'s fanatical regard for skinniness, but the city has never been identified with a great beer— which is to say, a beer full of carbs and alcohol and flavor. ANGEL CITY BREWING, housed in the faux German neverland of Alpine Village, aspires to be what Anchor Steam is to San Francisco and Samuel Adams is to Boston. Angel City launched its first bottling run in the spring (its line of six beers is on tap at more than 75 places around town), and now the brews, including the malty Angel City Ale and the exquisitely spiced Belgian-style Angel City Abbey, can be sipped direct from the fridge. >) 833 W. Torrance Blvd.. Torrance. 31Q-329-8881 or www.angelciiybrewing.com.

Chowder
WATER GRILL's white clam chowder might be the ultimate art¡sanal soup. First, the ingredients: Niman Ranch applewood-smoked bacon is the Kobe beef of animal fat, from a herd of pigs treated so humanely they're practically massaged. The potatoes come from Weiser Farms, famed in farmers' market circles as purveyors of everything you might need In the way of heirlooms, from the Russian Banana to the Rose Finn Apple Fingerling to the good old German Butterball. Every spoonful is a delight. A tiny brunoise of carrots and celery adds a soft bite, the backcountry flavor of great bacon and potatoes plays off the marine tang of Manila clams, and the whole is bathed in a silky cream broth finished with a drift of microcut chives. It's a chowder, yes; it is also the aritsanal credointegrity, uniqueness, and craft—in a steaming white bowl. »544 S. Grand Ave,, LA., 2)3'ß9'-OPOO or www.waiergn7i.com.

Way to Spend
HI L_! fbL l»l\
The lights are about to get bright on Broadway—the defunct Hollywood department store, that is, whose rooftop bears one of the more identifiable (and long dormant) art deco neon signs in town. The sign's relighting later this summer is thanks to the LUMENS (Living Urban Museum of Electric and Neon Signs) project, which has overseen the restoration of more than IOO neon signs along Wilshire Boulevard and in downtown. Neon is one of L.A.'s calling cards, evoking all that is flashy and noir; in 1923, the first neon sign in the United States went up on an L.A. Packard dealership. Unfortunately, the City of L.A. Cultural Affairs Department no longer funds LUMENS, and the project needs cash. The next hoped-for stage, which calls for the relighting of 43 historic signs in Hollywood, will cost I4OO.OOO. With our last buck we'd do what we could to get the lights shining. To make a donation, go to svww.neonmona.org.

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THE BEST OF LA 2 0 0 5 Written and reported by Anne Breza. Jenny Burmrtn, Craig Bytd. Amanda Dnmeron. Margot Dougherty. George Ducker, Mark Izhrman. Courtney Fitzgerald, Dave Gardetta. Gia Lauren Gittlcson, Greg Go/din. Kristin Ito. Robert Ito. Jesse Katz, Patrie Kuh. Ed Leibowitz. Mary Melton. Eric Mercado. Kari Mozena. Chris Nichols. Steve Oney. Andrea Richards, Erin Poitman. Abel Salas. Matthew Scgat RJ Smith. Julia St. Pierre, Ariel Swctriley. Daphne Tanyol. Mary Trahan. Karen Wada, Zoé Wadler, andJiyeon Yoo LA

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I I THE BEST OF LA I I
G R A P P A S E L E C T I O N (No. 377 T r a t t o r i a Tro V o n c z i o . 119 W . G r e e n St., Pasadena, 626-795-4455 H A I R B R U S H S E L E C T I O N (No. ¡2) Beauty C o l l e c t i o n 18517 Ventura I N D I A N R E S T A U R A N T (No. 79) M a u r y a . 151 S, D o h e n y D r , Beverly Hills. 310-786-7B58 or w w w m a u r y a beverlyhilts.com H A I R H E L P (No. 7 0 ) M u r i e l M's H a i r B o o t C a m p a t L I M E A D E (No. 51) M i n t y L i m e C o o l e r a t B o r d e r Grill 1445 401 St., Santa Monica . 310-4511655 or www.bordergrill.com M A K E U P (No. 64) G o l d i o : available • I Bath & Body Works, w w w . b a t h MICROBREWSfNo.99) Angel C i t y Brewing. 833 W. Torrance B l v d , Torrance. 310-3928381 or www.angelcitybrewing.com P E D I C U R E (No. 58) Frederic Fekkal Salon. 4 4 0 N. Rodeo Dr, Beverly Hills. JlO-777MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT (No. 98) M a n d a l o u n . 141 S. Marylan d A v e , G l e n d a l e . 818-S07-19O0 or www.ma ndalounusa.com SHAVING SUPPLIES (No. 30J Larry's Shaver S h o p. 821 Wilshire Blvd.. Santa Monica. 310-393-3291 O R A N G E G R O V E (No. 80) E. W a l d o W a r d . 273 E. Highland A v e , Sierra M a d r e . 8 0 0 - 3 5 5 - 9 2 7 3 or www.waldoward.com S H I A T S U M A S S A G E (No. 72) Massage T h e r a p y C e n t e r . 2130 Sawtelle Blvd.. W e s t L . A , 310-4448 9 8 9 or www.massagenow.com S A L A D BAR ( N o 84) M r * . Winston's K I D - F R I E N D L Y R E S T A U R A N T (No. SPRAY-ON T A N (No. 807 Sunset Tan. 12050 Ventura B l v d . Studio City. 81876I-TAN2 or www.sunsettanning.com 87) C u r r y H o u s e , 123 O n i z u k a St.. Ste. 2 0 4 . L.A., 213-020-0855. For other focatiens. go to www.Housefoods.com/curry.house.html F L O R A L D E L I V E R Y (No. óó) Mark's G a r d e n . 13838 Ventura B l v d . K I D S " H A I R C U T (No. 75) S M A L L P L A T E S (No. 71) A . O . C . 8 0 2 2 W . 3 r d S t , L . A , 323B R O W N I E S (No. 47) T h e F a r m o f B e v e r l y Hills 439 N Boverly Dr., Beverly Hills. 310-273-5578; The G r o v e . 189 T h e G r o v e D r , L.A., 323-5251699; cr www.bT-ownies9021o.com S U M M E R C O C K T A I L (No. 357 R h o d e Island R e d a t Providonco 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A.. 323-460-4170 B A T H R O O M F I X T U R E S (No. 32) George's P i p e & P l u m b i n g . 6 9 0 S. Fair Oaks A v e , Pasadena, 626-792L O C A L S I N G E R (No. Ó9) E l . n i M a n d e l l , www.elenimandell.com F I C T I O N A L D E T E C T I V E (No. 1$) V7c M a c key on The Shield-, airs Tuesday. JO p.m., on FX R O C E N E S P A Ñ O L B A N D (No. 62) G o B e t t y G o . www.gobettygo.com C H A I N C A F É (No. 10; U r t h C a f f . . 8 5 6 5 M e l r o s e Ave., W e s t H o l l y w o o d , F I L M B E N E F A C T O R (No. 5W Warner Bros, vice president Richard M a y R O V I N G J A Z Z C L U B (No. 25) Rocco S o m a z z i (323-804-4146 or www.roccoinla.com) books C a f e R A D I O S H O W (Wo. r i J o n o s y ' i Jukobox sirs M o n d a y through Friday, n o o n to 2 p.m., on 103.1 F M M c t r o p o l . 923 E. 3 r d St., L.A.. 213613-1537 or www.cafemetropol.com , and t h e Gallery Theater at Barnsdall Art Park, 4 8 0 0 Hollywood Blvd., W A L K I N G T O U R (No. S) L.A. C o n servancy's " H i s t o r i c C o r e " t o u r , 523 W. 6 t h S t . Ste. 826. L.A.. 213-6232 4 5 9 or www_laconservancy.org S M A L L T H E A T E R (No 21) B l i c k Dahlie 5 4 5 3 W . Pico Blvd.. L . A , 3 2 3 . 5 2 5 - 0 0 7 0 or www.thedahlia.com WAY T O S P E N D O U R L A S T B U C K (No. 101) L U M E N S (Living U r b a n M u s e u m of Electric and N e o n Signs) project, www.neonmona.org T H R I L L R I D E (No. 6 5 ; X at Six Flag» Magic M o u n t a i n . 26101 Magic Mountain Plcwy., Valencia, 66l255-4100. 818.367-5965, or w w v u i i . D E S S E R T S H O P (No. 88) Susina Bakery. 7122 Beverly Blvd.. L A . . 3239 3 4 - 7 9 0 0 or www.susinabakery.com C H O W D E R (No, t o o ) W a t e r G r i l l . 5 4 4 5. G r a n d A v e , L.A. 213-891-09OO or www.walergrill.com H o l l y w o o d . 866-881-8399 C H I C K E N P O T P I E (No. 23) K a l o Mantilini. 9101 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. 310-278-3699; 5921 O w e n s m o u t h A v e, Woodland Hills, 816-348-1095 W I N E S H O P (No. 18) W o o d l a n d Hills W i n e C o m p a n y . 22622 Ventura B l v d , W o o d l a n d Hills. 818-222-1111 or www.whwineco.com H O U S E P L A N T S (No. 3tJ Rolling G r e e n s . 0 5 1 8 Jefferson D O G H I K E (No. 4 2 ; C a n y o n V i e w N a t u r e Trail. Bailey C a n y o n Park, 4 5 t W. C a r t e r Ave., Sierra M a d r e S P A N I S H C L A S S E S (No. 4 5 ) B e v e r l y Hills Lingual I n s t i t u t e . 4 3 9 R U G R E P A I R (No 29) K o - Z - C r a f t . 818-353-4455 or www.ruglink.com (by appointment only) E A S Y N A T U R E W A L K (No. -7) Solstice C a n y o n Trail, 3 4 5 5 Solstice C a n y o n Dr., Malibu, www.nps.gov/samo/maps/5olstice.htm TILE T A B L E S ( N o . 44) Furthur. 4312 DEPARTMENT STORE MAKEOVER ( N o 52) Bobby W e l ls at Chantocaillo at Barney s N e w York. 9 5 7 0 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills. 3 1 0 - 2 7 6 - 4 4 0 0 B A N H M l (No. 397 KP's, 2616 HyperOAR B A N D (Not 56) Jackshit perform s at t h e B a k e d Potato. 3787 ion Ave.. Silver Lake. 323-913-1818 or www.kpideli.co m F R E N C H F R I E S (No. 4) JAR. 8225 Beverly B l v d , L . A , 3236 5 5 - 6 5 6 6 or www.thejar.com F A C I A L D E A L ( N o . 85) Fresh. 8671 W. Sunset B l v d . W e s t Hollywood. TREE S U R G E O N ( N o . 6 ) Finch T r e e S u r g e r y . 641 E. Mission Dr. San G a b r i e l . 6 2 6 - 2 8 6 2716 or www.finchtree.com KITEBOARDINGÍN0.9J B e l m o n t S h o r e . Long Beach: park C O F F E E - T A B L E B O O K S (No. 76) A r c a n a : Books on t h e A r t s . 1229 3 r d W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake. 3 2 3 - 6 6 0 3001 or www.furthurla.com H O R S E B A C K R I D I N G (No. 49) L A H o r s e b a c k Riding, 2623 O l d Topanga C a n y o n Rd.. Topanga, 8l8-$9t2 0 3 2 cr www.lahorsebackriding.com C A N I N G A N D BASKET SUPPLY (No. 28) C a n e & Basket Supply C o . . 1283 S. C o c h r a n Ave., L.A.. 323-9399 6 4 4 or www.canebasket.com W R I T I N G P E N S fNo. 9 0 ) Flax P e n to P a p e r . 1078 Gayley Ave . W c s t w o o d . 310-208-352 9 or www.flaxpentopaper.co m N. C a n o n Dr.. Beverly Hills, 3 1 0 8 5 8 O717 or www.bhlingual.com V I N T A G E M O V I E P O S T E R S (No. 36) Larry Edmunds Bookshop. 6 6 4 4 H o l l y w o o d Blvd., H o l l y w o o d . 323 463-3273 or www.larryodmunds.com 3 1 0 - 6 5 9 - 0 6 2 8 ; 267 S. Beverly Dr.. Boverly Hills. 310-205-9311: 3327 M a i n St., Santa Monica . 310-314-7040 W A F F L E S ( N o . Ó37 C a n t o r ' s Delicatessen. 419 N. Fairfax A v e , L.A, 3236 5 1 - 2 0 3 0 or www.cantersdoU.com H A N D M A D E T I L E (No 19) Kon M a s o n Tile. 8 0 9 W. 15th S t , Long Beach. 562-432-7574 o r www.kmt-bcia.ccm C H A R T E R F I S H I N G B O A T (No. 95) Pierpoin t Landing. 2 0 O Aquarium Way. Long Beach. 562-9Ö3-930Q or www.pierpoint.net P L A C E T O P L A Y L O T T O fNo 9 2 ; Bluebird Liquor. 13746 H a w t h o r n e Blvd.. H a w t h o r n e . 3 1 0 6 7 5 - 6 7 6 6 T E A S H O P ( N o . 24) L e Palais des T h é s . 401 N. C a n o n D r , Beverly Hills. 310-271-7922 FAKE G R A S S (No 27) Sprinturf. 310 595-5516 or www.calsyntheticturf.com C A R A M E L S (No. 977 L i t t l e F l o w e r C a n d y C o . . 323-551-5948 or www.littleflowercandyco.com T A M A L E S ( N o . 93) Tamale s Litiana'i. 3 4 4 6 E. 1st S t , Boyle Heights. 3 2 3 - 7 8 0 - 0 8 2 9 C H I M N E Y R E S T O R A T I O N (No. 26) Boston Brick & S t o n e . 2 0 0 5 Lincoln A v e, Pasadena, Ó26-296-7700 or www.bostonbrick.com T O Y S T O R E (No. a » A c o r n S t o r e , 1220 5th St., Santa Monica, 3IO-45I5Ö45 or acorn.storcia)vcri2on.net 5547 or www.georgesshowroom.com P L A Y H O U S E S fNo. 2) G r e g g Fleishman. 3 S 5 0 Main St., C u l v e r City. 310-202-6108 cr w w w grcggfleiihman.com L U G G A G E R E P A I R (No. I4J B e v e r l y Hills Luggage & G i l t Shop 4 0 4 N. Beverly Dr.. Beverly Hills. 310-273-5885 or www.bhbags.com S N O W B O A R D S H O P (No. 74) Z J Boarding H o u s e . 2619 M a i n St.. Santa Monica, 310-392-5646 or www.fjboardinghouse.com 6 5 3 6 3 5 9 or www.aocwinebar.com A R C H I T E C T U R A L S A L V A G E (No. 537 A r c h i t e c t u r a l D e t a i l . 2 4 4 9 White St., Pasadena, 6 2 Ó - 8 4 4 - 6 6 / 0 or www.architecturaldetail.net P I Ñ A T A S (No. 33) Tapia P r o d u c e . 1248 E. Olympic Blvd.. L.A., 213-6245638 or www.tapiaproduce.com H O L L Y W O O D BOWL PARKING fNo. 34) H o l l y w o o d U n i t e d M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h . 6 8 1 ; Franklin Ave.. Hollywood. 323-874-2104 or www.hollywoodumc.org S E C O N D H A N D J E A N S fNo. 5 5 ) R u f C u t . 11344 W. Pico Blvd.. W e s t L.A., 310-473-LEVI or w w w . r u l cut.com S C O O T E R S fNo 8) S c o o t e r 5 h o p , 1043 W. Collins Ave., O r a n g e . 8 0 0 - 2 3 - V E S P A or www.scootershop.com Lollicut, I 8 6 0 3 Ventura Blvd.. Tarzana, 8)8-342-6171 G A S S T A T I O N fNo. 577 E x x o n . 7 9 0 0 Beverly Blvd.. L.A.. 323-935-2322 Sherman Oaks, 800-416-8761 or www.marksgarden.net P A R T Y S U P P L I E S fNo. 50J V i n e A m e r i c a n Party S t o r e , 5 9 6 9 M e l r o s e Ave., L.A., 323-467-7124 FREE K I D S ' E N T E R T A I N M E N T fNo. 68) Musical Circus, 3 0 0 E. G r e e n St., Pasadena, 620793-7172 or www.pasadenasymphony.org/circus.htm E X O T I C C A R R E N T A L fNo. 207 B e v e r l y Hills R e n t - A - C a r , 9732 S. Santa M o n i c a Blvd.. Beverly Hills. 310-274-0969 or www.bhrentacar.com O V E R S T O C K fNo. 4 0 ) Lisa K l i n e O u t l e t . 7207 M e l r o s e A v e . L.A., 3 2 3 - 2 9 7 - 0 4 8 5 or www.hsakline.com M A N B A G S fNo. Ó2j D e a n . . 3918 W . Sunset Blvd.. Silver Lake, 323-665-2766 or www.deanaccessories.com 8 7 0 0 or w w w t r e d e r i c f e k k a i . c o m F A M I L Y G U I D E B O O K (No. 73) Fun an d E d u c a t i o n a l P l a c e , t o G o w i t h Kids and A d u l t s in S o u t h e r n C a l i f o r n i a , by Susan Peterson (Fun Places Publishing, $20.95). www.funplaces.com ECO-FRIENDLY DRY CLEANER (No. ¡8) C o u t u r i e r d e i n e n . 0311 W . Pico Blvd.. L.A.. 3 1 0 8 6 0 - 9 6 0 8 C A T K E N N E L fNo. 6l) C a t M o t e l . 1807 W. Magnolia Blvd.. Burbank. 818-845-0222 L E A T H E R G O O D S (No. 7) C a l l e e n C o r d e r o B o u t i q u e , 7384 Beverly Blvd.. L.A.. 323-934-5541 or www.calleoncordero.com .indbodyworks.com D I A P E R S E R V I C E (No, 54) B A L L E T S C H O O L fNo. 13) W e s t s i d o School of Ballet. 1711 Stewart St.. Santa Monica. 310 828201fl or www.westsideballct.cam L A S T - M l N U T E G I F T S fNo. 60J T o r t o i s e . 1208 A b b o t Kinney Blvd., Venice. 310-314-8448 or www.tortoiselile.com Point d e V u e Salon. 152 IM, W e l h e i l y Dr., Beverly Hills. 310-2731231 C H I L D R E N ' S M U S E U M {No. 41) Children's M u s e u m at La H a b r a . 301 S. Euclid St., La Habra, 5 6 2 - 9 0 5 ' 9793 or www.IKcm.org Blvd, Tarzana. 818-881-8393 or www.beautycollection.com C A R O U S E L (No. 5 ) G r i f f i t h Park M o r r y - G o - R o u n d , Griffith Park Dr. (follow signs to merry-go-round), 323-6Ó5-3051 or www.3parks.0rg/dot/patU/griffi»hPK/mgr.htm S E C R E T G A R D E N (No. n) R a n c h o S a n t a A n a Botanic G a r d e n . 1 5 0 0 N. College Ave., C l a r e m o n t , 909-625-8767 or www.rsabg.org F L I P - F L O P S (No. 9 4 ) Paliskates. 1019 S w a r t h m o r e Ave.. Pacific Palisades, 3IO-230-60B5 P U B L I C O B 5 E R V A T O R Y (No. ,6) M o u n t W i l s o n O b s e r v a t o r y . 6264 4 0 - 9 0 1 6 or www,mtwiison.edu D I Y J E W E L R Y (No. 83) S e m i P r e c i o u s . I 0 2 3 M o n t a n a Ave.. Santa Monica . 3 1 0 - 8 9 9 - 0 9 1 0

310-360-88U or \

v.fresli.c

H I D STUFF

at G. O c e a n Blvd. near Granada Ave. and walk d o w n the beach

Street P r o m e n a d e . Santa M o n i c a, 310-458-1499 or www.arcanabooks.com

5ERUICE5
D y - D e e D i a p e r Service, tioo ß 0 3 9 3 3 3 or www.dy-dee.cum

H A W A I I A N S H I R T S (No. 787 Paradise B o u n d , 5287 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, 562-434-6656. 877-5828 8 4 6 , or www.luautime.com

Index
CULTURE
C a h u e n g a Blvd. West. Studio City, 81B-980-1615 or A D A P T I V E R E U S E (No. 43) N a t i o n a l Promotions and Advertising, 343.1 O v e r l a n d A v e , L.A., 3 1 0 5 5 8 - 8 5 5 5 www.thebakedpotato.com

B A R M E N U (No. 67)Towor Bar. 8 3 5 8 W. Sunset Blvd. W e s t Hollywood. 323-654-71OO or www.argylchotelcom

G r e e n Grocery, 2901 O c e an Park Blvd. Santa Monica. 310-452-7770. 2 4 5 0 Colorado Blvd. Santa Monica. 310-315-2777. O p e n i n g s o o n 1909

B R E A D P U D D I N G (No, 77) Blair's. 2 9 0 3 Rowena Ave,. Silver Lake. 3 2 3 - 6 6 0 - 1 8 8 2

Avenue of the Stars. Century City

DUTPÖDRB

P H O T O R E S T O R A T I O N (No. 91) Altchison a n d W a t t e r s . 323-9571700 or [email protected] (by a p p o i n t m e n t only)

S U M M E R F R O C K S fNo. 46) C i m i l l o Francos D e P e d r i n i . 10O7 '/.' Fair O a k s A v e . South Pasadena, 626-441-7868

HERLTH • BERUTV
A F F O R D A B L E W O M E N ' S DAY SPA (No. 967 O l y m p i c Spa. 3915 W. O l y m p i c B l v d , L . A , 323-857-O666 or www.olympicspala.com

B l v d . C u l v e r City. 310-559-8656

EnTERTRinnEnT
A R C A D E (No. 48) J i p a n A r c a d e . 3 3 3 S. A l a m e d a St., Ste. 2 0 6 . L.A.. 213 635-1486

flag-.com/park _/magic mountain/index ASp

SHOPPinE

W I L D B I R D S U P P L Y fNo. 22) W i l d Birds U n l i m i t e d . 25416 C r e n shaw Blvd., Torrance, 310-326-2473 or www.wbu.com

F O I E G B A S (No. 667 N o r m a n ' . 8 5 7 0 W. Sunset Blvd., W e s t H o l l y w o o d , 310-657-240O or www.normans.com

FGDP • D R i n H

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