July 2009 Go Guide Newsletter The Mountaineers

July, 2009 M4

The monthly publication of The Mountaineers

Volume 103, No. 7

Threatened species on bureaucratic roller coaster The end of the blackberry as the club knows it

Mountaineer
The
w w w. m o u n t a i n e e r s . o r g
American Alps Legacy map

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M4 M4 M7 M7 M8

Reviewing ‘Eiger Obsession’
Summit Savvy Conservation Currents Passages Off the Shelf Branches & Limbs

Junior Mountaineers activity launches! see pg. 9 of the Go Guide.

Erasing the divide at North Cascades National Park

The American Alps Legacy Project is lobbying to bring two divided chunks of North Cascades National Park land together. See M2 to find out how you can assist this Mountaineers-supported effort to either create a contiguous park or save the lands as wilderness areas.

Sisters scaled the summits for suffrage
Restoration is their bag. See M5.

Discover The Mountaineers

If you are thinking of joining - or have joined and aren’t sure where to start - why not attend an information meeting? Check the Go Guide branch sections for times and locations. Are you ready to jump right in? Visit www.mountaineers. org. No computer? See pg. 18. Need to call? 206-521-6000.
PERIODICAL POSTAGE PAID AT SEATTLE, WA

Editor’s note: This is part one of a two-part article about the influence of women mountaineers—including some Mountaineers members—on the women’s suffrage movement in the early 1900s.

A glance into the crystal ball . . .

The Mountaineers is often recognized for many of its personalities who have

dedicated their lives to preservation of wilderness, waterways and parks—from Asahel Curtis to Harvey Manning and Polly Dyer. In the meantime, the Pacific Northwest’s population has ballooned; its valleys, foothills, estuaries and rivers ments amidst a natural wonderland that has inspired, invigorated and evoked the passions of the aforementioned Mountaineers, as well as their many colleagues. As much as our sentinels for the environment have contributed to saving

Washington State Historical Society image

aspersed with dwellings and businesses; its politic influenced by these develop-

the lands we now enjoy, they also contributed to our social fiber by emulat-

ing a lifestyle—a way of proceeding on the trail of life that found natural travel

companions in the women who fought for equal rights. They fomented ways of ing (i.e., the creation of an equipment co-op known as REI and the publication our path ahead.

doing business in the world of recreation that were profound and groundbreakof “Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills” ). Moreover, they lend a vision for So, what will the face of The Mountaineers look like decades from now, during

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By Shanna Stevenson

our second century of existence? What will it embody? We have asked a handful of our leaders to look into their crystal balls and, by a quirky stroke of luck in a future Mountaineer. See page M6 and then try looking into your crystal ball. the time continuum, even procured a letter left on the deck of a time machine by

hen a large group of women joined the third annual outing of The Mountaineers in July 1909 and planted a “Votes for Women” banner into Columbia Crest atop Mt. Rainier, it vividly illustrated the strength of the campaign in our state for women’s right to vote—a campaign shared nationally by sisters who showed that a “new woman” was stepping into new roles in the early 20th century. Women who became suffrage leaders in the 20th century benefited from changes in the economic and social climate regionally as well as nationally. As new products and services became available to middle-class women and demands Continued on M3

Trailsfest will again grace the perimeters of Rattlesnake Lake on Sat., July 18. See the ad on M8 for more about the hikers’ extravaganza. ✔ Bookstore Summer Sale—The Mountaineers will hold its annual summer blowout July 15-17 in conjunction with Trailsfest (above). Come to the bookstore at club headquarters or the booth at Rattlesnake Lake. See ad on M2 for more details.

Upcoming
✔

The Mountaineers Players will follow up their spring production with a summer treat, “High Button Shoes.” See pg, 3 of the Go Guide for more about the play and tickets. Trek faster, lighter—Interested in lightening your load in practical ways? A two-part seminar, divided between class sessions and a 60-mile backpack trip, is being planned for late July and early August. See pg. 8 of the Go Guide for the nitty-gritty.

The Mountaineers 7700 Sand Point Way N.E. Seattle, WA 98115

July 009
The

The Mountaineer
Explore, conserve, learn
The club’s mission: To enrich the community by helping people explore, conserve, learn about and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest. The club’s charter lists its purposes as follows: —To explore and study the mountains, forests and other water courses of the Northwest and beyond. —To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of these regions and explorations. —To preserve by example, teaching and the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of the natural environment. —To make expeditions and provide educational opportunities in fulfillment of the above purposes. —To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life. —To hold real estate and personal property and to receive, hire, purchase, occupy, and maintain and manage suitable buildings and quarters for the furtherance of the purposes of the association, and to hold in trust or otherwise funds, received by bequest or gift or otherwise, to be devoted to the purposes of said association.

Mountaineer
The Mountaineers is a nonprofit organization, founded in 1906 and dedicated to the responsible enjoyment and protection of natural areas. Board of Trustees Officers President Eric Linxweiler, 08-10 President Elect Tab Wilkins, 08-10 Past President Bill Deters, 08-09 VP Properties Dave Claar, 08-10 VP Publishing Don Heck, 08-10 Treasurer Mike Dean, 08-10 Secretary Steve Sears, 08-10 Trustees at large Kirk Alm, 07-10 Rich Draves, 08-11 Dale Flynn, 07-10 Ed Henderson, 08-11 Lynn Hyde, 08-11 Don Schaechtel, 06-09 Eva Schönleitner, 06-09 Dave Shema, 07-10 Mona West, 06-09

Also see us on the web at www.mountaineers.org

Managing Editor Brad Stracener

Contributors, proofreaders: Barb Butler, John Edwards, Brian Futch, Jim Harvey, Dyche Kinder, Diana Roll, Shanna Stevenson, Tab Wilkins. Photographers & Illustrators: Jeanne Eisenberg, Dave Shema

THE MOUNTAINEER is published monthly by: The Mountaineers, 7700 Sand Point Way N.E. Seattle, WA 98115 206-521-6000; 206-523-6763 fax

Branch Trustees Bellingham, Steven Glenn Everett, Rob Simonsen Foothills, Gerry Haugen Kitsap, Jimmy James Olympia, John Flanagan Seattle, Mike Maude Tacoma, Tom Shimko Interim Executive Director Mona West

Volume 103, No. 7 The Mountaineer (ISSN 00272620) is published monthly by The Mountaineers, 7700 Sand Point Way N.E., Seattle, WA 98115. Members receive a subscription as part of their annual dues. Approximately $12.42 of each member’s annual membership dues is spent to print and mail this publication. Non-member subscriptions to The Mountaineer are $32. Periodicals postage paid at Seattle WA. Postmaster: send address changes to The Mountaineer, 7700 Sand Point Way N.E., Seattle, WA 98115. Opinions expressed in articles are those of the authors and do not necessarily represent the views of The Mountaineers.

Who ya gonna call? Your mentor, of course

Are you a new member wondering about the how-to, where-to and what-to-do with your club? There are a number of resources available to you, not the least our websites. Now there is also a real, live person. If you want to know about expected conditioning for a hike, what not to wear, how to sign up for events or whatever call or e-mail the “mentor of the month.” Mona West is this month’s mentor. Feel free to contact her at [email protected] with your questions or comments.

Closed for Independence Day. The Mountaineers offices, bookstore and library will be closed to observe the holiday on Fri., July 3.

Interim executive director announced
Mona West, a 10-year Mountaineers member and current trustee for the club, has accepted the position of interim executive director of The Mountaineers until a permanent director is hired. According to Mountaineers President Eric Linxweiler, a permanent director is expected to be hired by this fall. West has served on the board of trustees for the past three years and has headed the Marketing Committee for the club. According to Linxweiler, West was asked by the club’s Executive Committee to fill the part-time role in a volunteer capacity and “she graciously accepted.” She will remain a trustee and will continue to serve on the search committee for a new director. She will also continue to serve on the Books Governance Committee. “Her skills and experience as a business leader and as a trustee, as well as her commitment to the club, make her an obvious choice to help in this capacity while we aggressively continue our executive search,” noted Linxweiler.

Help protect North Cascades by helping American Alps Project
The American Alps Legacy Project has released a map of areas of study in the North Cascades for wilderness designation and/or additions that will result in the completion of North Cascades National Park. (See M1 of this Mountaineer to view the map.) A true grass-roots campaign, the American Alps Legacy Project is actively seeking public input in the planning process. Please contact Mountaineers Public Policy Associate Leesa Wright, at [email protected] or at 206-521-5012, with any ideas or suggestions you may have regarding this important effort to ensure protection of public lands in one of America’s last truly wild and beautiful places. To learn more about the project, see a recent article from the Seattle Times online at http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2009240051_ northcascades20m.html.

The Mountaineers Legacy Society

Bookstore Sale!

The Mountaineers, in partnership with The Mountaineers Foundation, is proud to announce the launch of The Mountaineers Legacy Society. The Society will recognize and honor donors who have included a gift to The Mountaineers and/or the Foundation through a bequest or other estate gift. If you would like to be recognized as a Founding Member in the Legacy Society – or would just like to learn more – we would love to hear from you!

July 15 - 17, 2009
10am - 7 pm
It’s the return of our famous bookstore sale! Twice a year, we slash prices and give you great deals on everything in the store. And if you haven’t seen the new bookstore or the new building, this is the perfect excuse to stop by. For more information, visit www.mountaineers.org or call 206-521-6001.

BIG DISCOUNTS!
All books & maps TOPO! software All book sets “Seconds” titles Clearance titles 25% off 20% off 30% off 50% or more off up to 85% off

To find out more about The Mountaineers Legacy Society, please contact us: [email protected] or call Judy Halls, 206-521-6006

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The Mountaineer
Continued from M1 ton Alpine Club in 1891, Tacoma Alpine Club in 1893, and, on the top of Mt. Hood on July 19, 1895, she and climbing friends agreed to form the Mazamas, a climbing club headquartered in Portland.

July 009

Outdoor clubs opened the floodgates for women climbers
for more women in the workforce increased at the turn of the 20th century, women began to step out of traditional roles. In record numbers, women enrolled in higher education, often in fields such as social services and investigative work. The “new woman” sought to break from formalism in American culture and the traditional views of women. These feminists sought to determine themselves through experiences. They found a community of women with similar ideas in the suffrage movement and broadened the campaign to include other groups beyond the traditional base, including women mountaineers who represented the intersection between “new women” and suffrage. They saw these outdoor activities as symbols for new roles and freedom and for equality with men. By planting flags on mountaintops, these feminists symbolized the pursuit of greater heights by women and for women’s rights in the new century.

Fuller later ascended Mt. Rainier with the Mazamas in 1897. She worked as a journalist in Chicago, Washington, D.C., and New York. She later married attorney Fritz von Briesen but continued to champion mountaineering women and helped to create Mount Rainier National Park. She died in 1958.

The 1909 outing to the top of Rainier included the planting of flags and the women's suffrage banner in the Columbia Crest crater. Anticipating success in the 1909 Legislature, Washington suffrage leader Emma Smith DeVoe invited National American Woman Suffrage Association (NAWSA) to hold its annual meeting in Seattle during the Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Exposition (AYPE) in July 1909. The April 1909 issue of Progress, the official publication of NAWSA, described the Seattle convention, including a side trip to Mt. Rainier as part of The Mountaineers’ annual outing. The article noted the cost and provided details, including how to outfit for the expedition using information in the “Washington Women’s Cook Book,” which included a mountaineer’s chapter edited by Dr. Eaton.

Washington State Historical Society photo

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suffrage-related climb of Mt. Rainier occurred in August, 1908, when the four Kangley suffragist sisters (Louise, Helen, Lucy and Gertrude), originally from Colorado and then living in Seattle, attempted the climb with a “Votes for Women” banner but were turned back by the weather. However, they managed to plant the flag near Camp Nisqually on the peak. Among the other women who climbed Mt. Rainier before 1909 were Susan Longmire (later Hall) and Edith Corbett in 1891; and Annie Hall, Bernice Parke, and Helen Holmes in 1894. According to Mountaineers History Committee member Bob McIntyre, the number of women who climbed Mt. Rainier was limited until the climbing clubs were organized around the turn of the 20th century, but after that time, their numbers increased exponentially.

A skilled orator, she spoke on behalf of women’s rights before Congress. She attended the 1905 NAWSA convention in Portland and climbed Mt. Hood after the event. Eaton then moved to Seattle and set up a medical practice in 1906. She had previously worked with suffrage organizer Emma Smith DeVoe in North Dakota. Eaton became a leader in the Washington suffrage movement and a close protégé of DeVoe when she came to Seattle. Eaton was the first woman to reach the East Peak of Mt. Olympus on Aug. 15, 1907, in what is now Olympic National Park, and went on to summit all six major peaks in Washington. After the suffrage victory in Washington state in 1910, Eaton married Judson King and moved to Washington, D. C., where she worked on the national suffrage scene as a representative of the National Council of Women Voters, representing the voting women in the West. She was affiliated with Alice Paul and the National Woman’s Party. Later, she moved to California as a practicing homeopathic physician and died there in 1939.

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orldwide, the first recorded woman mountain climber was Maria Paradis who climbed Mont Blanc in the French Alps in 1808. Fay Fuller (von Briesen) is Washington’s most famous early

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The movement in Washington

Women in Washington were granted voting rights during the territorial period, from 1883 to 1888, but their rights later were revoked by the Territorial Supreme Court. Women’s right to vote was again before the male voters as part of the ratification of the state constitution in 1889, but failed as a separate ballot issue. Populists in the State Legislature put the issue again before voters in 1898 with the same result. By the early years of the 20th century, suffragists reenergized the campaign in the state and by 1909 they again approached the Legislature to authorize a vote to amend the constitution for women’s right to vote. After the House passed the legislation, the Senate concurred on Feb. 23, 1909. Acting Gov. Marion Hay signed the bill two days later, authorizing a statewide vote of Washington men for ratification of the amendment in November 1910. (At that time, statewide elections were held only in even-numbered years.)

he Mountaineers was formed as an auxiliary chapter of the Oregon mountaineering club, the Mazamas. The idea for a separate Washington club came to fruition at Dr. Cora Smith Eaton’s office in the Arcade Building in downtown Seattle after an event organized by Eaton and Henry Landes, a geology professor at the University of Washington. Eaton was a noted suffragist and leader of the 1909 campaign. On Jan. 18, 1907 a meeting of the new club was held in the Chamber of Commerce in downtown Seattle. Landes was elected president, John P. Sweeney vice-president, Eaton secretary, E. F. Stevens treasurer and Mary Banks historian. Of the 151 charter members, 77 were women. Eaton was a seasoned suffragist. A graduate of the first class at the University of North Dakota in 1889, she was also a calisthenics teacher. She received her medical degree from the Boston University School of Medicine and became the first woman to practice medicine in North Dakota in 1892. She worked for the women’s right to vote in North Dakota and Minnesota, and was a prominent member of the NAWSA.

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U.S. Library of Congress photo

Suffragist climber and Mountaineers member Dr. Cora Eaton Smith. woman mountain climber, eventually becoming the first woman known to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier. A teacher from the Yelm area and a society editor of Every Sunday, a publication owned by her father, Fuller and four other climbers reached Columbia Crest on Mt. Rainier on Aug. 10, 1890. A climbing enthusiast throughout her life, Fuller wrote about climbing for the Tacoma publication in a column called “Mountain Murmurs.” She later worked to form the Washing-

s part of the fundraising for the suffrage campaign, and likely to assure men that they would still have dinner on the table if women achieved the right to vote, suffragists composed the cookbook that sold for a $1 a copy. Among the outfit list of 35 items were “one dark-colored night robe or pajamas . . . two winter undersuits (and) two lighter undersuits . . . ankle length and long sleeves.” Excluding what a woman wore on her back, the weight of the outfit—prepared especially for climbs on glaciers and snowfields—was estimated to be about 40 pounds. Shanna Stevenson is coordinator of the Women’s History Consortium for the Washington State Historical Society.

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July 009
Can you identify the summit
in the foreground here? Send your answer (by July 10) to: Summit Savvy, The Mountaineer, 7700 Sand Point Way N.E., Seattle, WA 98115. If you guess correctly, you’ll receive $10 of Mountaineers Money, good for Mountaineers Bookstore merchandise, and we’ll publish your name in next month’s column. (In case of a tie, one winner will be chosen at random.) Club employees or persons shown in the photograph are not eligible. Each month we’ll publish a new mystery summit and identification of the previous one.

The Mountaineer
■ Send your photographs (or slides) for possible publication as a mystery summit (include identification for our benefit). If we use your photo, you will get $10 of Mountaineers Money as well. ■ At the end of each year, all correct respondents’ names are placed in a hat and the winner of that drawing will receive $50 of Mountaineers Money good for purchases at The Mountaineers Bookstore. ■ Rex Andrew correctly guessed last month’s mystery summit, Sundial, as photographed by Curt Baxstrom.

Summit Savvy

conservation CURRENTS
ESA: Between the lines of the law
Editor’s note: Following is the first of a series of articles examining the discrepancy of practice and legal edict regarding the Endangered Species Act. Ensuing articles will cite some regional species emblematic of the discrepancy.

over the listing-decision process, which is often cumbersome and poorly understood. The political pressures to avoid listing a species are often immense. There are also enormous incentives to subvert a listing—sometimes at the highest levels of the federal government. To complicate matters further, the presiding services are starved for revenue; hence, the funding necessary to adequately protect listed species simply does not exist. For example, at both national and state levels, less than 2 percent of total revenues are given to the operation of natural resource agencies. Of this, the USFWS and NMFS get a much smaller share than other agencies. Listing and de-listing decisions often come under prompt and sustained legal attacks, often from green groups, thus diverting money that could otherwise protect species. Furthermore, those funds that are free for species protection must be spread across all 50 states, and some states have far more listed species than others. In California and Hawaii, for example, more than 300 are listed in each state. While Washington is fairly far down the list, with 44 listings, the ones it does have illustrate many of the problems with the listing process. Even where huge amounts of time, energy and resources are allocated to a species of great political controversy, such as the northern spotted owl, that expenditure can fail. To wit: spotted-owl populations in Washington are in steep decline. An ESA listing is a huge step forward for preservation, but not necessarily permanent, as events in our region have shown with the de-listings of both the Yellowstone grizzly and most recently, the northern Rocky Mountain gray wolf. Some listed species have yet to get the legally mandated critical habitat designation required by the ESA at the time of listing. Most of the litigation with which these services must contend

which are already protected by the ESA. Lynx, wolf, orca, salmon and, of course, owls are some of the more conspicuous examples of ESA-listed species in Washington. The act protects 44 Washington species of all types in three categories: those that occur in our state (30 of the 792 vertebrate species and all nine listed plants); those that do not (five); and those that are listed in another state which occur here (three). The state act protects 39 species, of which 31 are animals and 8 are plants. Of the federally listed species in Washington, 15 are listed as endangered and 29 as threatened. Nationally, there are approximately 1,318 ESA-listed species, of which 1,010 are listed as endangered (some, mostly fish, are counted twice). The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS), and the National Marine Fisheries Service (NMFS) preside

revolves around critical habitat designation and is introduced by environmental groups. Still other listed species languish for protracted periods without a recovery plan. The Canada lynx listing is illustrative of this delay and looming litigation. Both the lynx and marbled murrelet were victims of high-level political meddling. The Puget Sound orca is an example of how politics—specifically defense-related concerns—can sharply reduce critical habitat designation upon listing. The fisher is an example of how state wildlife officials, fearing the implications of a federal listing decision in the future, are taking aggressive precautionary measures. They are also making similar efforts for sharp-tailed grouse and the pygmy rabbit. If federally listed, some of the more obscure species, such as the Ozama pocket gopher, possess the ability to wreak havoc on plans for development around one of the state’s most rapidly expanding cities—Olympia. It is the focus of intense discussion at local, state and federal levels to develop a strategy to avoid federal listing. Anadromous fish pose a special set of listing-related concerns, not the least of which is a protracted legal battle over how to define a species in order to minimize listings. Then there is the matter of species that are in what may best be called “God’s waiting room”—the hundreds of candidate species teetering upon extinction that warrant listing but for whom adequate resources to list simply do not yet exist in the eyes of the presiding services. While less than 1 percent of listed species have become extinct since the ESA was enacted in 1973, many more have faded into oblivion waiting for a listing that never arrived. In this context, George Orwell wasn’t entirely off the mark. Dyche Kinder is the fish and wildlife representative for The Mountaineers Conservation Division.

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By Dyche Kinder

hen George Orwell wrote his famous social satire in 1945, “Animal Farm,” he had no inkling that the Endangered Species Act (ESA) would later come into existence or that, through its uneven implementation, it would fulfill his infamous dictum that “all animals are equal but some animals are more equal than others.” As the legal cornerstone for the prevention of animal extinction in our nation, the ESA provides every species within its jurisdiction equality in theory and rhetoric, but has fallen far short in practice. We are blessed to live in a state with diverse ecosystems populated by a bounty of species, some of

Chair’s Corner: a fond farewell
On July 1, 2009, my term as chair of the Conservation Executive Committee ends. While I have enjoyed my 3-1/2 years as CEC chair, it is now time for me to move on to other conservation work and time for the CEC to have new leadership.

Those who care about our mountains have to care about all of these issues. The CEC continues to meet the third Wednesday of every month (except July) at 7 p.m. at club headquarters. I especially want to thank five people with whom I have worked closely over my term: past President Bill Deters, current President Eric Linxweiler, Mountaineer editor Brad Stracener, past Executive Director Steve Costie, and especially Leesa Wright, public policy associate. These people have supported the CEC during difficult times, and I leave the committee confident that we have established a more professional working relationship with the club, and that the CEC will continue to be a vital part of The Mountaineers. My thanks to all. — Michael Shurgot, CEC chair

I want to thank the committee members for their work and encourage other club members to get involved in the crucial conservation issues that CEC pursues: wildlife, state parks, forest practices, wild and scenic rivers, creation and expansion of wilderness areas as well as national parks, energy conservation, and global warming, the environmental issue of the 21st century. Anyone who has recently climbed a glacier knows that our recreation areas are under dire threat from global warming—posing inevitable and severe changes to flora and fauna.

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The Mountaineer

July 009

Getting back to nature, one plant at a time
By Brad Stracener

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ven when Mountaineers are gardening, they just can’t stay off the slopes. Just ask Jeanne Eisenberg. Along with a cast of dozens, including some goats that aren’t of the mountain variety, Eisenberg has been leading a landscape Bean-bag mulch: largesse of Starbucks. renovation just south of Mountaineers headquarters that may have implications for the entirety of Magnuson Park. The work started just before the club’s grand opening in late April with a clear objective: the non-native, invasive blackberries had to go. What wasn’t so clear at first was how to extirpate them. “My husband (Mickey) actually came up with the idea of taking out the blackberries. So that is how I got involved,” said Eisenberg, who with her husband had created a backyard wildlife habitat of native plant species at their nearby home. At first, she explained, she and her husband were going to simply start by hand—one blackberry bush at a time. Then Don Schaechtel of The Mountaineers Naturalists group Forget the berries: goats by largesse of Pemco. came along. He knew of a less laborious method of removal: goats. He contacted Renta-Ruminant, a company that raises goats mainly for the purpose of nonmotorized removal of unwanted vegetation. And, the project began. Dozens of goats purged the blackberry jungle that stretched from bottom to top and side to side of a slope of roughly 20 by 30 yards. There were even blackberry bushes growing up the alder trees on the south end of the plot. They were removed by less voracious means than the goats could muster—tool-wielding volunteers. Every Tuesday since the goats took off for greener pastures, a group of Mountaineers volunteers, including many from the Naturalists group, have

applied hand to tool in order to prep the ground for the planting of native plant species.

To do this, they first had to starve the blackberry roots of life. This is where Starbucks, Albert Lee Appliances and the University of Washington come into play. Eisenberg, who graduated from a native plants program provided by the Washington Native Plants Society, explained that the blackberry roots must be deprived of light and air for a year in order to quench their return. Sheet mulching was therefore required. Albert Lee and the UW donated the cardboard to layer the entire plot of land, while Starbucks donated bundles and bundles of burlap bags that once ferried coffee beans across the seas. Volunteers used homemade mallets crafted by Mountaineer John Wick to tamp the bags and cardboard down with stakes donated by Seattle Parks and Recreation. Over the burlap, volunteers applied a six-inch layer of wood chips, courtesy of the city parks as well, that should issue the final blow in starving the blackberry.

Brad Stracener photo

Dave Shema photo

Brad Stracener photo

“We should have a site that is blackberry free by fall of 2010,” said Eisenberg, also a graduate of the Naturalists’ Natural World Course. “In late fall of 2009, we hope to plant clusters of paper birch and some shore pines near the top of the slope to absorb water runoff from the parking lot above,” she added, “as well as some natives directly behind the cable barrier on the east edge of the parking lot.” Schaechtel with mallet, largesse of John Wick’s ingenuity. The volunteers, with the help of city parks stewards, will then begin to collect native plant starters in pots and transplant them on the mulched area by late 2010. A demonstration garden is planned on the flat, 3,000square-foot base of the slope. It will include identifications of each plant “and should be very educational,” noted Eisenberg. “People will be able to see the possibilities for their own yards.”

A shining example

Furthermore, if all goes according to plan, The Mountaineers landscape transformation can serve as a link and shining example to a broader restoration project throughout Magnuson Park. “Parks are watching us very closely,” noted Eisenberg. “The project on the south slope will provide a link between restoration areas in the park,” noted Shari Blevins, the city’s senior gardener for Magnuson Park, who pointed to an area north of Mountaineers headquarters that is already starting “to provide good habitat” and the south end of the park where new wetlands are under construction. Promontory Point, at the southernmost part of the park has been under restoration for the past 10 years. “There are other areas throughout the park which provide small pockets of habitat,” Blevins added. “The south-slope project will provide habitat in an area of buildings and concrete, where it is much needed,” she said, “and it will present a prominent example of native plant restoration to the public in an area of high visibility.” Blevins hopes the high visibility of The Mountaineers project will encourage more volunteers to become involved throughout the park. Eisenberg likens the displacement of non-native plants to a “very quiet underground movement” which has spread to all corners of Magnuson Park and even the Burke-Gilman Trail. Earth Corps, one of The Mountaineers’ non-profit cousins in Magnuson, as well as the neighboring Conservation Corps and Magnuson Park Environmental Stewardship Alliance, are brothers and sisters in arms during this restoration campaign. She thinks the future is bright for fauna at Magnuson as a result of the volunteer effort. “Birds and insects have very few natural plants around here right now,” stated Eisenberg, “and they will recognize them once these plants start to come up.” Want to lend a helping hand? See M8 to find out how. Brad Stracener is managing editor of The Mountaineer.

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July 009
Time traveler’s letter to editor:
(SEATTLE) June 10, 2022 - I grew up outside. My parents took my siblings and me on hikes and camping trips all the time. They loved how they were able to so easily and fully enjoy the wild lands of the Northwest—from beaches to rivers to forests to mountains. I guess that’s because my dad is from Ohio and my mom is from Texas, which of course pale in terms of what we have here in Washington. They appreciate so much all that Washington has because it’s a place they never had as kids— something I took for granted and now love beyond words. It’s through their example, their passion, and the community of The Mountaineers that I became such a reverent and defending protector of the amazing world that’s so close to us. As a child, my parents were always with Mountaineers. They had friends come over for dinner and the conversation was always about climbs they did, hikes they loved, and of course, politics. However, no matter what anyone thought about current affairs, they all agreed about their love, respect and desire to protect what we have. It was through this “community education” that I became not only an eager student of the outdoors, but an avid protector of it as well. Many weekends were spent at Mountaineers lodges, where I learned to ski and snowboard, and of course, enjoy a great fire with good friends. My dad took me to Meany Lodge when I was 3, where I learned how to ski (and do dishes). We have an amazing new lodge in central Alaska, which is a great base camp for exploration. My friends and I have had spring break there for the past few years, which has always been an absolute blast! Currently, I spend a lot of time at the clubhouse. It’s right near the university, where I presently go to school. It’s such a great place—a mecca for people who want to learn, explore, play, and hang

The Mountaineer
More people feel encouraged to volunteer some of the time versus a few people feeling like they are burdened to volunteer all the time with activities . . . Corporations donate and want to have The Mountaineers as part of their association. (We are) known for programs that inspire and provide a platform to get kids outside— inspiring the next generation of Mountaineers . . . Nonprofit mission is abundantly funded in large part through mature, professional, boardsupported philanthropy.

Taking a ride on The Mountaineers time machine
Why I'm a Mountaineer
out with friends. Built in 2007, it’s a pretty cool looking spot that draws you to it and screams “hey, we love the outdoors.” Between classes, my friends and I can often be found on the climbing wall or paddling club kayaks on Lake Washington. As a former Eagle Scout from Troop 1906 (the club’s sponsored troop), one of my favorite activities is to help the elementary school kids who are there as part of Seattle school’s outdoor program—which The Mountaineers started. Through our publishing arm, we produce an entire line of books that are focused on kids and their education in the outdoors. That’s important, as The Mountaineers are worldwide leaders in this regard. As a young child, I remember my dad being gone a lot at club meetings. He’d tell me all the time that he was going to “build me a clubhouse” or “go save a mountain.” I never knew what he meant then, but as I grew older I understood his love, passion and commitment to everything wild. He, along with countless other Mountaineers, made sacrifices so that my generation would have a world we could still explore. Currently, The Mountaineers has grown quite a bit. There are 35,000 members across Washington, Oregon, Alaska and Idaho. Most join for the amazing community we have supporting our exploration, education, conservation and outreach efforts. Above all, we ALL love and protect the outdoors. My dad is 50 now, and we share our limited time together outside. We climb Liberty Bell every year on Father’s Day and take at least two kids from The Mountaineers KlimbingKids program with us. When I see the amazed look on their faces on top of a mountain, it makes me certain that we have yet another generation to explore, educate and protect the amazing Northwest. Cap Linxweiler

– Mike Dean, treasurer

In one of the strategic planning sessions for the board of trustees and officers of The Mountaineers, they were asked to describe how they see the club in the decades ahead. The letter from a future member at right and the following brief excerpts from their essays resulted.

Lodges . . . (have) moved to full-time summer use, operated much like the AMC Huts in New Hampshire. They . . . have paid staff offering meals, lodging, etc.
– Dave Claar, V.P.,

– Helen Cherullo, Publisher of Mountaineers Books

The Mountaineers has 50,000 members. Most of them are proud to support the premier outdoor recreation organization in the Northwest because of its work to preserve recreational lands and waterways, and to bond the people of the region, particularly kids, to nature and the outdoors.
– Jordan Roderick, former Mountaineers treasurer

My nieces and nephews . . . ride the Zip-Car (with a special discount because it’s a Mountaineers trip) to the trailhead (and) have a wonderful time. They upload their pictures to Facebook so Mom and Dad can see where they’ve been. They decide to sign up for the climbing class and download the various lectures and instructional videos, connecting with their 10-person group which will complete the climbing class in 10 days.

– Tab Wilkins, President-Elect

Books is a sought out publisher of mountaineering and environment media . . . The Public Policy Division is leading most issues on recreational access and conservation in the Pacific Northwest . . . Mountaineer fiefdoms are dead.
– Don Heck, Vice President Publishing

With the board’s support, we consolidated common groups across the organization under a small team of high caliber paid leaders reporting (to the club CEO) . . . We greatly expanded our ‘done in a day’ activities . . . and our core extended courses . . . have been divided into more flexible modules across all branches.

Mona West, Interim Executive Director, Trustee

What does your crystal ball say?
Picture yourself or your children two decades from now. What will The Mountaineers mean to you and the community? How will our strategies and mission materialize in your eyes and in our community’s eyes? Our club’s leaders would like to cast a glance into your crystal ball to learn about your aspirations for The Mountaineers as we venture forth into the second century of our club’s existence. Go to our “Communities” area of www.mountaineers.org (“News & Events” section) to give us your best Nostradomus. Then keep an eye on the next Mountaineer. M

The Mountaineer
Adventures in Reading

July 009

‘Eiger Obsession’ explores tradeoffs, risks in familial realm of climbing

Off the shelf
A

The latest from your Mountaineers Library
By Kathleen McCluskey, librarian through a howling wilderness tenanted by wild animals, through dense and trackless forests where the light of sun never enters, across maddening torrents and precipitous rapids, and along overhanging precipices.” We may have our moments in the depths of a dreary winter when we wonder if we reside in that place “where the light of sun never enters,” but the first European to cross the Cascades, Alexander Ross, possessed a typical Washingtonian’s fortitude, persistence and occasional pessimism in regard to a successful day’s outing in the woods of the Northwest. Traveling under a persistent, gloomy, cloud cover, he complained that the forests were “almost impervious,” and “a more difficult route to travel never fell to man’s lot.” These are only samples of the rich store of historical stories that line the book’s 136 pages. Quantity of pages, though, does not in any way bespeak of the value therein. The quality of the author’s photography and accompanying text make it a wonderful gift to give family, friends, outdoors enthusiasts and children studying the history and nature of our state and region. If it weren’t sacrilege for a librarian to cut into a book, I would be sorely tempted to do something daring and dastardly (i.e., tear out the incredibly beautiful images and put them up on my walls). Since I wouldn’t dream of advocating that, let’s hope the author and publisher put her images up for sale as well.

Editor’s note: The Mountaineers Adventures in Reading is a book discussion group that recently digested “The Eiger Obsession—Facing the Mountain that Killed My Father,” by John Harlin III. The book describes the author’s father’s drive for a first ascent of the “Direttissima” route up the Eiger’s North Face and the desire of John III to understand more about his father, who died attempting the route. Following is a review of the book by Adventures in Reading member Tab Wilkins. Watch for periodic reviews of other Adventures in Reading books in coming issues of The Mountaineer.

s a librarian, I admit to a love of reading and encourage others to use their local libraries and to sit down with a good book. I sometimes fear that the printed word, the tome, the format that has existed for centuries as a way of passing down knowledge, will cease to exist due to the downloading of books and other technological advances. I had to read a book recently in order to review it, and I must admit to a guilty pleasure (i.e., I found myself wanting to skip the printed word and just sit and look at the pictures that told such a beautiful story). K. Scott Ziegler’s book, “The Cascades: A Natural Heritage,” tells the history of the mountain range that caused my parents to say, “Stop, we go no farther. This is where we want to raise a family.” Of course, since they set out in Boston, they really had no choice other than to turn around or head to Alaska, but it was the diversity of natural options that surround us in the Pacific Northwest that offered them the most compelling reason to put down roots. Ziegler’s book is overflowing with visual depictions and historical background concerning the Washington and Oregon Cascade watersheds. The quotes chosen are enlightening as well as entertaining. On the Nooksack she lets Edmund Coleman’s words tell the story of a different perspective on the outdoors and the difficulties and viewpoints regarding its use: “Here we leave the outskirts of civilization; our path henceforward will be

L

ocated in Switzerland, the Eiger is 13,022 ft. high with a North Face that was successfully summited for the first time in 1938 after numerous failures. The history of early failure and success is superbly described in “The White Spider,” by Heinrich Harrer, a member of the first successful party. The Direttissima route John II (aka “The Blond God”) attempted in 1966 was then considered “the last great Alpine problem” in Europe. It is now named “The John Harlin Route” after he fell 4,000 feet to his death during the attempt. The first part of the book describes the father through the eyes of a young son and is a record of the man who made alpine climbing history, primarily in Europe, with the likes of Chris Bonnington, Royal Robbins and Layton Kor. The second part of the book describes young John III exploring his outdoor-adventure self. Whether this early interest in the outdoors comes from the natural heritage of where he grew up or his desire to follow his father is hard to discern (a mixture of both perhaps). As a side note, his exploration included a trip to ANWR with The Mountaineers in 1969. Today John Harlin III is recognized as an accomplished first-ascent skier, rock climber and father, as well as an editor of the American Alpine Journal and contributing author for Backpacker. Eventually, in 2005, John III decided to climb the Eiger’s North Face, with his young daughter and wife watching. Though he doesn’t take “The John Harlin Route” for a variety of reasons, he still writes of a catharsis while climbing—wondering about sacrifices, tradeoffs, risk to family and, inevitably, as we experience in a successful summit, the rewards. Perhaps John III was looking for an understanding about his father’s death. However, he seems to use the experience to reflect and explore his own risks and rewards in pursuing outdoor, high-risk physical adventure. For anyone so inclined, this experience is captured as an IMAX film, “The Alps.” The book is well written and relatively easy to read. I would rate this book as “borrow from Mountaineers Library,” as opposed to “boring” or “own it.” – Tab Wilkins The Adventures in Reading club discusses books the second Tuesday of each month. For more information see www.mountaineers.org/scriptcontent/default.cfm?insert=tem_air.

Books wants to add you as a friend

Would you like to know about upcoming events related to Mountaineers Books and its authors? Then become a friend of Mountaineers Books on Facebook. An events calendar is linked to Mountaineers Books’ Facebook page. It boasts 211 fans as of press time, and most of them are located outside of the Seattle area.

Passages
Albert Gregg, a Mountaineers member for more than 60 years who
climbed with the Whittaker brothers, died Feb. 29, 2009, at the age of 91. Besides the mountains, he also loved aviation. A mechanical-electrical engineer who worked at Boeing and the Seattle Steam Corporation, Gregg was a member of the Capers Flying Club. He flew Cessnas and served as a glider instructor for the Boeing Employees Glider Club in Arlington. He recently became an honorary member of the Evergreen Soaring Society. Gregg joined the REI Co-op in its very early years—his membership number being 610. He was an accomplished backcountry skier who moved to the Seattle area from California and then eventually to Kirkland. He retired from Seattle Steam Co. after working there for 38 years. He is survived by two brothers, Don Gregg of New Braunfels, Texas, and Clare Gregg of Denver, Colorado, and one sister, Dorothy Gregg, also of Denver. He is also survived by his wife, Inge, and two daughters, Nina Francis and Donna Brinton of Fort Worth, Texas, and Redwood City, California, as well as a son, Hans, of Marysville.

M7

July 009
The Mountaineers is looking for members who possess skills in fundraising and wish to contribute their skills to the welfare of the club. Nominations for members of the newly formed Fundraising Committee (FRC) are currently being accepted. The committee will help inform and oversee fundraising efforts at the club, branch and committee levels, while serving also as a liaison to The Mountaineers Foundation. Members of the FRC will aim to achieve the goals of the club’s strategic plan, represent the club in community and philanthropic circles, and develop a set of fundraising skills. Those who would like to nominate someone for the committee should include the following information about the individual: — Name, address and contact information.

The Mountaineer
tee memberships.

Club seeks nominees for new fundraising committee
— Other activities and community involvement — Prior fundraising experience (especially in the area of annual funds, donor relations, corporate sponsorships, grants, planned giving and presidential gifts or major gifts). Members of the FRC will serve a two-year term and nominations must be submitted by July 25 to: The Mountaineers, Judy Halls, 7700 Sand Point Way N.E., Seattle, WA 98115, or judyh@ mountaineers.org. For more information, contact Judy Halls at 206-521-6006.

MOUNTAINEERS NIGHT AT MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR! Thursday, August 20
30% off everything in the store!
4 - 8 PM
Mountain Hardwear and The Mountaineers are coming together for a night of great deals. Members who visit the Downtown Seattle store between 4 and 8 pm on Thursday, August 20, get 30% off all merchandise! To get this amazing deal, you must be able to prove membership bring your membership card or a copy of the Mountaineers magazine with your name and adress on it.

— Offices held at the board or branch level as well as commit-

Help restore Magnuson landscapes
Every Tuesday evening in July, from 6:30 to 9 p.m., Mountaineers and friends of Mountaineers are invited to work on the grounds around club headquarters.

landscaping or continue to prepare the area north of the south plaza—where the goats cleared the blackberries for native plants. (See article on M5.) Wear long pants, sturdy shoes and bring work gloves if you have them. Snacks, desserts and drinks are provided. No experience needed. No registration required. For more information contact Jeanne or Mickey Eisenberg, jeannemickey@ gmail.com; or Mary Bailey, [email protected].

Someone will be at the site by 6:30 p.m. to greet volunteers at the south parking lot of The Mountaineers Building. Participation by students in the Natural World Course on evenings free of class would be especially appreciated. Volunteers can assist in maintaining the developed

2 5 0 P I N E S TREET S EaT TlE, w a 98101

Yoga • Hiking •Culture Swimming Sunshine •Yoga •Hiking • Culture ••Swimming• •Sunshine

Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Roy Holman Roy Holman

Washington: Nov. 28-Dec. October Costa Rica -Cedar Springs -Retreat, Oct. 2-4, 2007 Washington: Methow Valley 7, 2008 19-21, 2009 $350 $295 includes all two nights shared9lodging, $1,195––Includesorganic meals, classes, double room Shared room, Includes nights organic meals, classes, hikes, and other activities hotel, most meals, classes, ground transport Costa Rica - November 23 – from Seattle) (Or: $1,995 includes RT airDec 1, 2007 - Roy H & Christine Borys Costa Rica – Oct 17-25, 2009 $1,195 Shared room, Includes 8 nights hotel, most meals, classes, ground $1,395 – Includes 8 includes RT most meals, classes, ground transport transport (Or: $1,895 nights hotel, air from Seattle) Mexico: Yelapa - Jan. 16-24, 2009 (Or: $2,195 includes RT air from Seattle) $1,195 –Yelapa --Jan 22-30, 18-26, 2008 - Roy H classes, ground Mexico: Yelapa January hotel, Mexico: Includes 8 nights 2010 most meals, & Linda Lapping transport Includes 8 nights hotel, most air from Seattle) Mexico ground (Or:Includes 8includes RT most meals, classes, $1,795 nights hotel, meals, classes, ground transport $1,195 shared: $1,195 –

Guatemala: Lake Atitlan – Feb. 26-March 9, 2009 Guatemala: Lake Atitlan Feb. 18-28, 2010 Guatemala: Lake Atitlan -–Feb 14-25, 2008 - Roy H & Kara transport $1,295 – 11 nights hotel, most meals, classes, ground Keating $1,395 – 11 nights hotel, most Most classes, ground transport ($2,150 $1,295 shared: 11 nights Hotel,meals, Meals, Classes, Ground transport ($1,995 includes RT air from Seattle) includes RT air from Seattle) ($1,895 RT air from Seattle) includes
Roy is a Mountaineer member, hike leader, yoga and meditation teacher, minister, and reflexologist. Classes & Workshops in the Everett area. Weddings officiated too!

transport (Or: $1,695 includes RTSeattle) Seattle) (Or: $1,750 includes RT air from air from

Contact for more info: Roy Holman 425-303-8150, www.holmanhealthconnections.com Yoga For Every Body
M

Branches

Yoga Yoga Retreats

& limbs

Braided River title awarded
Braided River, a publishing imprint of Mountaineers Books, has been honored with an independent publisher award for one of its recent titles.

“The Last Polar Bear: Facing the Truth of a Warming World,” with photographs by Steven Kazlowski, tied for the gold medal in the category of environment, ecology and nature. The Independent Publisher Book Awards (IPPY), launched in 1996, rewards the work of publishers “who exhibit the courage and creativity necessary to take chances, break new ground, and bring about change, not only to the world of publishing, but to our society.” More than 3,380 books were entered in 65 categories by independents, university presses, small presses and self-publishers.