Learn How To Choose Flea Control

Published on June 2016 | Categories: Types, Instruction manuals | Downloads: 33 | Comments: 0 | Views: 335
of 4
Download PDF   Embed   Report

Learn How To Control Fleas and Ticks Once and For All!See How http://tinyurl.com/7r7ss3w

Comments

Content

==== ==== Learn AMAZING Strategies for KILLING Fleas and Controling these pests from hurting your pet! http://tinyurl.com/7r7ss3w ==== ====

Fleas, those pesky blood sucking pests that make pets' lives miserable and humans itch from just a thought, can be impossible to control unless you understand their life cycle and the vulnerability of each life stage. Most pet owners do not understand the flea as evidenced by their most commonly asked questions: "How can I get rid of fleas once and for all?" "Do I use pills, dips, shampoos, powders, topical drops, or a combination?" "How can I get the fleas out of my house?" "I've got fleas in my car, how can I get rid of them?" "Why do I have to treat my carpets, the fleas are on the dog, right?" "Why is my yard infested with fleas? I do not even own a pet?" The answer: there is no single method or insecticide that will completely eradicate or control the flea. Did you get that? No single method will effectively control fleas because of their complex and multi-faceted life cycle. Preparations that are effective during one stage of the cycle are ineffective during other stages. Therefore, to successfully control fleas, understanding the various life stages becomes paramount. Collectively, all of the species of fleas are categorized under the order name of Siphonaptera. The cat flea, Ctenocephalides felix, is the most commonly found flea in the US and infests cats, dogs, humans, and other mammalian and avian hosts. Did you get that? Fleas can be found on other mammals and birds.This explains how non-pet owning homes and yards can become flea infested. Fleas thrive in warm, moist environments and climates, and Southeast Texas, especially the Gulf Coast area, is better suited for flea development than most other areas of the USA. The main food source for the flea is blood from a host animal. 95% of the time, fleas utilize mammalian hosts. But, fleas can also infest avian species (about 5%). Why does the flea bite itch? Flea saliva, like other biting skin parasites, contains an ingredient that softens, or "digests" the host's skin for easier penetration and feeding. The saliva of fleas is irritating and allergenic -- the cause of all the itching, scratching, and other signs seen with Flea Allergy Dermatitis, or FAD.

Fleas have four main stages in their life cycle: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. The total flea life cycle can range from a couple weeks to several months, depending on environmental conditions. The total flea population is made up of approximately 50% eggs, 30% larvae, 15% pupae, and only 5% biting adults. This means that the majority of the fleas life is spent off the animal making the environment the most logical treatment target rather then the host animal. ADULT: The adult flea is very flat side to side. There are hair-like bristles on the flea body and legs to aid in their navigation through pet hair. Fleas have 3 pairs of legs, the hindmost pair designed for jumping. The flea is most famous for its jumping abilities. The adult flea prefers to live on the animal and its diet consists of blood meals courtesy of the host animal. The female flea is very proliferative and lays white, roundish eggs. She can lay up to 50 eggs per day, 1,500-1,600 eggs over several months. Fleas cannot reproduce without a blood meal, but they can survive for up to a year without feeding provided they do not emerge from the cocoon. EGG: The eggs are not sticky (like some parasites), and they usually fall off of the animal into the carpet, the pet's bedding, floorboards, or on the ground. Remember, a dog carrying just 10 producing adult females can spread 15,000 to 16,000 eggs in your house over the course of a few short weeks. The point in time when the flea egg hatches will vary -- anywhere from two days to a few weeks, depending on environmental conditions. The larva emerges from the egg using a chitin tooth, a hard spine on the top of the head that disappears as the flea matures. The flea egg is relatively non-susceptible to routine flea treatment programs. LARVA (plural = larvae): The larval stage is actually made up of three developmental stages. Larvae are about 1/4" (6.35 mm) long, and semi-transparent white. They are often mistaken for fly maggots. They have small hairs along their body and actively move. In order to survive, the larvae eat flea dirt, or the feces of adult fleas (which is mostly dried blood) and other organic debris found in the carpet, bedding, soil, and even on your pet. Depending on the amount of food present and the environmental conditions, the larval stage lasts about 5 to 18 days (longer in some cases) then the larva spins a silken cocoon and pupates. PUPA (plural = pupae): The pupa is the last stage before the flea becomes an adult. The adult flea can emerge from the cocoon as early as 3 to 5 days, or it can stay in the cocoon for a year or more, waiting for the right time to emerge. Stimuli such as warm ambient temperatures, high humidity, even the vibrations and carbon dioxide emitted from a passing potential host will cause the flea to emerge from the cocoon faster. And, once he emerges from the cocoon, he has only one thing on his mind - a blood meal. This brings us back to the starting point, the adult flea. The entire life cycle is quite variable, as evidenced by the variability in each life stage progression. As mentioned above, the cycle can be as short as two weeks or as long as two years. That is why

it is so important to remain vigilant. Even when a flea problem is thought to be under control, it probably is not! The Flea Control Program Recognizing that during its life cycle, the flea is only on the dog or cat 5% of the time and off 95%, it only makes sense to focus a control program following the same percentages. Invest 5% of your time and money in controlling fleas on your pet and 95% on ridding your environment of the eggs, larvae and pupae. Here's what we suggest:

Irregardless of whether you do or don't have a flea problem, apply once a month spot on type treatments for each of your pets. This should be continued year round - each of the 12 months if you seriously want to eliminate your flea problem or prevent one from occurring.If you already have a flea problem: a. Treat the inside of your house with a flea fogger that contains a growth regulator (IGR) and then complete follow up applications 7 and 14 days later for a total of 3 treatments. Severe infestations may require more treatments. b. Vacuum your floors daily for 21 days. c. Apply boric acid powder to your carpets and floors once weekly for 3 weeks. Leave the powder in place for 2 hours and then vacuum. d. Wash your pet's bedding using a good detergent. Continue this step every other week, more often if necessary. e. Treat you lawn with an agricultural limestone product. If possible, add some diatomaceous earth to the mix. Water in thoroughly. f. If using broad spectrum spray type insecticides, treat your yard daily for 5 days and then follow up with a single application 7 and 14 days later. If you use a granular type, apply once weekly for 4 weeks. Pay particular attention to outside pet sleeping areas. If you are pro-actively attempting to prevent flea problems: a. Apply boric acid powder to your carpets and floors once monthly. Leave the powder in place for 2 hours and then vacuum. b. Treat your lawn with agricultural limestone and diatomaceous earth in the spring and again in the fall. c. Apply a granular type broad spectrum insecticide once monthly from March through and including October.

Please take note - we have not suggested dips, shampoos, or powders. Although these methods are quite effective at killing adult fleas, they do nothing to eliminate the egg, larvae, or pupae infestation. Topical sprays containing growth regulators are more effective, but again they only target 5% of the flea's life cycle. These preparations each have their place in the overall scheme of flea control and it might be best to consult your local Veterinarian, Pest Control Serviceman, or your Feed Store's Pet Consultant for further suggestions.

Bill Bergfeld is a professional Network Marketer and owner of multiple businesses. As a Farm and Ranch Store Pet Consultant, he maintains a website dedicated to flea control and infestation prevention. You can find more information at http://www.profleacontrol.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bill_Bergfeld

==== ==== Learn AMAZING Strategies for KILLING Fleas and Controling these pests from hurting your pet! http://tinyurl.com/7r7ss3w ==== ====

Sponsor Documents

Or use your account on DocShare.tips

Hide

Forgot your password?

Or register your new account on DocShare.tips

Hide

Lost your password? Please enter your email address. You will receive a link to create a new password.

Back to log-in

Close