Malta Alive

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passion is life

THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLANDS
The besT DJs The greaTesT clubs

bleeDing-eDge arT & graveyarD gigs; Thespian heriTage & Delap-chic

ALT.MALTA

MeDiTerranean DraMa wiTh a fierce hipsTer spin

HOT FASHION

CULTURE CLUBBING ISLE OF MTV

caravaggio & courTesans; 7000 years in ThirTy MinuTes

The epic free parTy This year heaDlineD by Kelis, KiD rocK & scissor sisTers!

CONTENTS
04/ 06/ 08/ 11/ 12/ 14/ 16/ 20/ 28/ 30/ 36/ 38/ 42/
INTRODUCTION THE ISLANDS TICKET TO RIDE THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLAND MALTA MUSIC WEEK NIGHT LIVES VENUES CULTURE CLUBBING 10 MINUTE HISTORY LESSON ALT.MALTA GOZO/COMINO CUISINE PEOPLE
ALEXANDRA PACE CHARLES & RON CHASING PANDORA KRIS MICALLEF IRA LOSCO

50/ 66/

FASHION STORY:LAZY DAZE RESOURCES

MASTHEAD/

publisheD by Music hQ MeDia agency [email protected] in associaTion wiTh The MalTa TourisM auThoriTy www.visiTMalTa.coM all creaTive worK by & © The MhQMa creaTive TeaM eDiTeD by Michael c lewin arT DirecTion / hiDDen agency Design / ThoMasin arnolD-baKer ThanKs / heiDi DruMMonD / carina DiMech / aleXia Maggi /aleX incorvaJa / clive corTis / seb law / bill h / eD breaKenriDge / air MalTa

all rights reserved throughout the world. no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of Music hQ ltd. every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in this publication at time of print; however, the publishers cannot be held responsible for any errors it may contain nor those contained on external third party resources. The views expressed are those of the editorial team and are not necessarily those of the publishers.

INSPIRED by AND IN LOvE wItH tHE bEAutIFuL ARCHIPELAGO IN tHE HEARt OF tHE MEDItERRANEAN, MALtA LIvE IS A bRAND NEw PRINt AND DIGItAL MuSIC, FASHION AND CuLtuRE MAGAzINE LED by tHE DRIvING PRINCIPLE tHAt tODAy wE wANt tO COMbINE tHE EuPHORIA OF PARtyING AbROAD wItH tHE SOuL-tICKLING GOODNESS OF CuLtuRAL ENDEAvOuRS. wE wANt tO ENjOy tHE HEADy, FuLSOME, EXCItED LIvES wE LEAD IN CItIES AND ON CIty bREAKS; but wE wANt A GORGEOuS CLIMAtE AND A KINDER PACE.

LIVE
M
alta is a young and bubbly country with 7000 years of history; it’s home to the beautiful, the crazy creatives and the leading lights of a new generation eager for change, but also to the perfect stillness of aeons of history and the calm of stunning architecture. best of all, it’s home to one of the most euphoric club scenes in the world, three tiny islands rammed with up-for-it locals, amazing open air venues and host to the best and biggest DJs and artists around. for anyone who loathes the wasted days of other Med party holidays where you sit and recover and wait for the next adventure, Malta will seem like salvation. Malta live shows you what to dream of doing; we’ll also show you how to get there this summer.

04

THE UNDISCOVERED PARTY ISLAND
it’s the blissful and perfect combination of sun, sea and and a smattering of tunes that make for the perfect party island. There’s nothing quite like coming back from a sun-drenched day’s exploration, gentle grazing on some fresh seafood, or just lazing on the beach and then getting ready to hit a fresh town for a few drinks and a late night of banging tunes in the fresh air. Malta and her sister islands, gozo and camino, have all of this in spades. and it’s not just a few tiny basements and some bottles of cheap beer; Malta’s clubbing scene features top-rate venues and stellar artist lineups to rival the biggest cities in the world. MalTa Music weeK is the Mediterranean island’s showcase event, with input from big players like MinisTry of sounD, creaMfielDs and isle of MTv, but there’s plenty of events across the season to keep your summer as blissed out as possible. Turn to out nightlife section to discover more.

CULTURE CLUBBING / ALT.MALTA
There’s no better cure for what ails you after a long night’s party than to be out and doing. we can’t enthuse enough about the variety on offer in this compact little place: 7,000 years of hisTory can be taken in ten minutes; a 30 minute drive can see you go from bustling cosmopolitan valletta, with its Thriving arTs scene and

MALTA LIVE ONLINE
MalTa live can be read online at www.MalTalive.co.uK, where you’ll find a cutting edge digital version of this magazine, along with scores of amazing benefits, such as:
DownloaDable MiXes evenT reacTion – viDeos & phoTos inTeracTive holiDay planning regularly upDaTeD live lisTings for The suMMer season inTeracTive flash arTworKs regular new inTerviews anD feaTures get live with www.MalTalive.co.uK follow us here: www.TwiTTer.coM/Maltalive www.MalTalive.TuMblr.coM

asTonishing archiTecTure , to
the other end of the island, where you might enjoy fantasies of Mediterranean noble living in the palaZZo parisio , the miniversailles. it’s the life you love to lead in your cities or on city breaks, but with clubs and sun thrown in. oh yeah, and some aMaZing fooD , too. but what will you wear? our gorgeous shoot shows you how to enjoy a laZy DaZe .

A QUICK INTRODUCTION TO THE ISLANDS
wItH ALL tHE ISLANDS’ jOyS AvAILAbLE wItHIN A SHORt DIStANCE OF EACH OtHER, yOu’LL GEt tO KNOw AND LOvE It quICKLy. HERE ARE SOME quICK POINtERS AbOut wHERE tO GO.
1

VALLETTA

2

THREE CITIES

Malta’s capital is its cultural hub and a Renaissance city as beautiful as any in the Mediterranean, built by the Knights after their victory over the Ottoman Turks. From derelict chic backstreets to grand palaces, the city has it all, as well as art centre St James Cavalier. Designed as a grid, on main drag Republic Street you’ll see shopkeepers stopping to chat with locals as the world meanders by, shopping. At night, it is appealingly calm, with vibrant theatre and wine bar culture.

Across the Grand Harbour from Valletta are the Three Cities of Vittoriosa, Senglea and Cospicua. Their streets are settled with the quiet peace of history, narrow cobbled streets contained within the fortified walls indicative of their status as first line of defence against the Ottomans. They have a pleasantly mature wine bar culture in the evenings and are perfect for strolls to enjoy traditional Maltese character.

3

ST JULIAN’S & PACEVILLE

4

SLIEMA

If Valletta is Malta’s heart, St Julian’s is its party-hard soul. Nightlife centre Paceville bounces every night to 4am with bars for someone of every taste, the streets rippling with happy pretty people. Gorgeous restaurants cover the peninsula’s coastline, which itself offers beautiful views of quaint boathouses and blue waters. Most important of all is the atmosphere, a fresh, young, modern vibe which happily compliments the gorgeous antiquity elsewhere.

Sliema is Malta’s modern face, a bustling seaside town crammed with cafes, restaurants and shops, including the just-opened hypermodern Tigne Point shopping complex. From its rocky beaches and cafes you can look out to the Mediterranean or across the bay to see Valletta church domes in dramatic silhouette. The main reason for visiting Sliema, though, is for that taste of modern living and all its attendant commercial pleasures: great food and good clothes shopping.

5

MDINA & RABAT

6

GOZO & COMINO

‘Silent City’ Mdina is an ancient town enclosed by bastions, today protecting the historical and architectural treasures it contains in its narrow, winding streets. Blink and you’ll miss the delightful restaurants tucked away in its alleys. Rabat sits next to it, with fantastic wine bars and cafes, both on top of a hill near the island’s centre, offering unparalleled views of the whole Maltese countryside in every direction.

06

Gozo and Comino are Malta’s tranquil sister islands. Gozo’s landscape is beautiful, dotted with churches and villages clustered around them. It’s capital, Victoria, has the Cittadella, an astonishing medieval fortified town, sitting up the hill above it and offering views of the entire island’s expanse of rolling hills. Comino’s deep azure lagoon is one of the most breathtaking in the Med. Both islands are filled with the pleasures of a Mediterranean lifestyle seemingly lost in the distant past; a rural, slow, passive life, soaked with sun and stillness.

6

GOZO
6
MALTA

VICTORIA MGARR

COMINO
9 10

8
MELLIEHA

3 4

MALTA
1

5

RABAT

ValLetta

LUQA

2
MARSAXLOKK

7

OTHER NOTABLES
7

blue groTTo popeye village

An amazing cave to the south of the island with dazzling deep blue waters. The full village set built for the 80s Hollywood Popeye film stands here in all its glory. Hilarious, and an amazing location for a party. The best place to see a sunset on the island, looking out east across the Mediterranean and with Gozo and Comino up to the north. The largest resort area in the island is rammed with bars, hotels and apartment complexes. Lively in season. Nearby St Paul’s Bay is beautiful and has great wine bars.

8

9

paraDise bay

10

buggiba

TICKET tO RIDE
S
andwiched between the southern tip of Europe and the northern tip of Africa, the three islands that comprise the Maltese archipelago (Malta, Gozo and Comino) are a hop, skip and a jump away – or just a 3-hour flight if you prefer. The compact nature of the islands combined with efficient and reasonably-priced infrastructure means that you won’t be trapped on airless coaches for hours, thus maximising beach, pool and party time.

AIRWAYS TO HEAvEN
air MalTa
Flying the flag for the country, Air Malta operates an extensive schedule of up to 16 weekly flights from Heathrow, and up to 14 a week from Gatwick. Manchester is served daily in Summer and Birmingham international served twice Weekly year round. Charter flights are also operated by Air Malta from Bristol, Cardiff, Norwich, Newcastle and Exeter.
www.airMalTa.coM

I GET AROuND
bus
Maltese buses are bright orange, very cheap and keep things simple: all routes depart from and return to the main terminus in Valletta. There’s also an express service linking the principal resorts with Sliema, Marsaxlokk, Mdina, the Three Cities and the main sandy beaches.

TaXi
Taxis are similarly easy; the white cabs pick up passengers from anywhere (except bus-stops), and all services from the airport are based on a fixed tariff

ryanair
With daily flights from London Luton and three a week from Dublin, Ryanair has recently added direct routes from Bristol and Edinburgh, and new twiceweekly routes from Leeds Bradford and Bournemouth started up in March 2010.
www.ryanair.coM

ferry
A regular ferry service for cars and foot passengers links Malta to Gozo, taking about 25 minutes each way.

easyJeT
Flies directly from Gatwick, Manchester and Newcastle and Liverpool.
www.easyJeT.coM

bMi baby
BMI Baby has just opened a new route this year departing Tuesdays and Saturdays from East Midlands.
www.bMibaby.coM

seaplane
A sea plane service links Grand Harbour in Valletta, and from the international airport to Mgarr Harbour in Gozo.

waTer TaXi
A water taxi service using traditional Maltese ‘dghajsa’ boats is available in Grand Harbour.

08

flights from HEATHROW, GATWICK, MANCHESTER, BIRMINGHAM

99

FOR RESERVATIONS CALL US +356 99472133

WWW.GIANPULA.COM

MALTA’S LARGEST OPEN AIR VENUE

THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

T

here’s no greater moment than when

need to be affordable and the people need to be great; the venues have to be top rate and the artists stellar; and most of all, it needs to be in a place you can lose your heart too. Malta and her sister islands Gozo and Comino have it all with some to spare. Their renown is growing around the world as the place to party: Isle of MTV,

Ministry and Creamfields have all established parties equal to any other across Europe and everyone from Gaga to Sanchez have proclaimed a bit of their heart has gone over to these beautiful, unassuming islands. You need to find out why this summer.

that banger drops late into the night – in the open air, surrounded by the young, the beautiful and the up for it, the remains of the day’s heat combined with a comforting cool, slapbang in the middle of the perfect party holiday. So much needs to come together to make this happen – prices

11

THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

MAIN EVENT

THE

MALTA MUSIC WEEK 2010 juNE 25—30 2010
feaTuring:
isle of MTv MalTa special wiTh KELIS,

M

alta’s spectacular

back, this year looks set to be bigger, better and ballsier: Ministry takes over open-air super-club Gianpula with Calvin Harris making his debut; Creamfields brings the mash-up festival in a national park and the MFCC; and MTV’s pop-dance extravaganza takes over Il Fosos Square

for a party like no other. Get yourself booked up now! Keep checking back to MaltaLive.co.uk for new announcements, build-up and fall-out throughout the summer, with mixes, vids and pics making a multimedia bomb blowing up in your face.

shindig returns for its fourth annual outing. Already firmly established on the summer party calendar after an immense third time out saw Gaga, the Black Eyed Peas, Roger Sanchez and more blow locals and travelling revellers into the heavens and

KID ROCK & SCISSOR SIStERS
MinisTry of sounD @ gianpula wiTh CALvIN

HARRIS, jOHANNES HEIL & DASH bERLIN
creaMfielDs MalTa wiTh

More

ERIC PRyDz, FERRy CORStEN, PEtE tONG & DubFIRE anD loaDs

THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

SCHEDuLE
FRIDAY 25TH JUNE
g7 friDays @ gianpula
FEAtuRING:
special guesT inna anD Top MalTese DJs Tony Tony, pierre corDina anD J Joy

THE

Glam up and get down to Malta’s biggest and most famous al fresco party destination – celebrating its 30th anniversary and having been voted the best spot in Malta by the MOS this year, Gianpula is in the mood for a big one and is the obvious choice to kick MMW into action. The wellheeled locals always keep their Fridays free for G7’s weekly outpouring of smash after smash, keeping the dancefloors filled.
www.gianpula.coM Doors: 11pM—4aM Money MaTTers: €6 grin/gurn: big cheesy grin sweaT facTor: hoT buT noT boThereD

SATURDAY 26TH JUNE
MinisTry of sounD fesTival 2010 @ gianpula
Main area: calvin harris anD MarK nighT Tech/prog area: Johannes heil anD guy J Deep & Tech house area: MigZ & glanville anD clayTon sane velociTy Trance area: Dash berlin anD KaTe louise sMiTh

The Maltese’s favourite event of 2009 returns in 2010: a full-on mash-up of genres from tech house to trance will ensure that everyone’s taste is met and expectations exceeded. Upcoming prog monster Guy J goes with Johannes Heil in the tech and prog area, while Migz & Glanville are sure to make it capital D-Deep in the Deep & Tech House area; most requested Trance artist ever Dash Berlin is sure to set the locals on fire, especially partnered with See the Sun vocalist Kate Louise Smith; but the sure-to-be-spectacular talking point is genuine genius Calvin Harris making his super-hyped debut on the island in the main area. Guaranteed raver’s delight.
www.clubbersevenT.coM Doors: 8pM—4aM Money MaTTers: €25 grin/gurn: boTh in eQual Measures sweaT facTor: supernova

THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

SATURDAY 26TH JUNE
la groTTa, goZo
FEAtuRING:
feaTuring: soon To be announceD Top inTernaTional acT anD Top locals pierre corDina, Tony Tony & J Joy

The mouth-dropping beauty of Gozitan club La Grotta makes it rightly regarded as one of the most astonishing in the Mediterranean. Loads of dance areas are scattered around a cliff side, with the main spot pushed back into a cave; lights make the opposing cliffside come to dramatic life, offering a vision unparalleled at any venue we’ve ever been to. Any opportunity to sample the awesome atmosphere at an event here is not to be missed; the turbo-charged Malta Music Week event is going to make it a night to talk about for a long time yet.
Doors: 10pM—4aM Money MaTTers: €10 grin/gurn: slacK-JaweD DelighT aT The view anD The vibes sweaT facTor: al fresco chills

SUNDAY 27TH JUNE
MalTa Music weeK live concerT @ bugibba
FEAtuRING:
Top local banDs & DJs

A chance to sample the thriving local music scene, whether your taste goes for deep house or dirty blues, in a carnival-esque atmosphere at the Bugibba Square. The lush seafront will be transformed into a live music arena, while the good times will be heightened by street artists like fire jugglers delighting and amazing. Definitely a good cool-down after what was sure to be a big night before.
www.g7evenTs.coM Doors: 9pM—12aM Money MaTTers: free grin/gurn: DelighTeD grin sweaT facTor: cool Down

THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

MONDAY 28TH JUNE
creaMfielDs MalTa 2010 – Mfcc, Ta’ Qali
FEAtuRING:
feaTuring: eric pryDZ, ferry corsTen, peTe Tong, Dubfire, Dave clarKe, nic fanciulli, DaviDe sQuillace & local DJs Tbc

Creamfields is back in Malta with a BANG – a recession-busting, bigname blasting bang at that. The world’s greatest dance festival is plotting an explosive party this year, with no expense spared to bring the biggest and best names to the island. The names alone are enough to set you off on dreams of dancing: Dutch Trance titan Corsten is back by popular demand, so you know that the locals will go off as only they can; dancefloor dominating superstar Prydz is not to be missed while Dubfire brings the know how that saw him win a Grammy as half of Deep Dish. With the full genre spectrum from Trance, House, Prog, Tech-House and Techno all filled, there’s something for everyone and everyone’s going home sweaty and happy.
www.creaMMalTa.coM Doors: 6pM—4aM Money MaTTers: €35-45 grin/gurn: superMassive grin sweaT facTor: you’ll neeD hosing Down afTer This one

TUESDAY 29TH JUNE
live Music @ paceville
FEAtuRING:
Top local banDs & DJs

MMW just wouldn’t be complete without taking in the islands’ nightlife hotspot Paceville in St Julians. The esoteric streets of the peninsula, usually paved with party kids on the wild weekends, will take on a different flavour as live music from Malta’s top artists and upcoming talent bring you back from the post-Creamfields blues. The huge array of bars of every kind will doubtless ensure fun will be had—and it’s a chilled way to build up to the big one tomorrow…
www.g7evenTs.coM Doors: 9pM—12aM Money MaTTers: free grin/gurn: eager grins waiTing for ToMorrow sweaT facTor: naDa

ISLE OF MTV
MALTA SPECIAL
30th juNE 2010
EvERytHING AbOut ISLE OF Mtv: MALtA SPECIAL IS IMMENSE. tHE bIGGESt OPEN AIR FREE CONCERt IN EuROPE, SuPERStAR ARtIStS, AN INCREDIbLE LOCAtION AND A EuPHORIC, uP-FOR-It AuDIENCE COMbINE tO REDEFINE yOuR IDEA OF SPECtACuLAR. It IS tHE uNMISSAbLE EvENt OF tHE SuMMER.
Taking place for the fourth consecutive year in Il Fosos Square, known locally as the Granaries, ISLE OF MTV could make a pretty could case for itself being the greatest show on earth. Picture the scene: a lavish custom built stage will stand at one end; opposite, one of Malta’s many churches is covered in lights; both beat out above the crowd, illuminating them against the In years past, everyone from N*E*R*D and Snoop Dogg to Gorillaz and Chemical Brothers have blown audiences away. Last year, though, was Faced with the epic task of topping that, MTV have produced a diverse, stellar lineup – dancefloor exploding disco divas the Scissor blackening sky. All is anticipation. And then: some of the world’s biggest artists will take to the stage to an explosion of ecstasy, euphoria—and the rest is music. Now picture yourself there. Is there anywhere else you’d rather be? something else. Not only did it see a huge set from the Black Eyed Peas, but the undisputed queen of pop, la Gaga, returned for the second year running to mark her ascension to the throne. It was beautiful, ballsy, bombastic—it was brilliant. Sisters will go head to head with fearsome innovatrix Kelis, with two more massive artists also due to be announced in short order. It’s a preposterously exciting line-up, and when combined with the electric atmosphere and a production that will make Avatar seem budget, this year’s Isle of MTV promise to go off. Get there and lick it up, baby, lick it up!

isle of MTv MalTa special

30Th June 2010

il fosos sQuare

MalTa

www.isleofMTv.coM

MuSIC wEEK
GIANPuLA
Last night we jetted into Malta to catch the massive Ministry of Sound event at Gianpula, and to kick off our Malta Music Week. Hopping onto an Air Malta plane, we got the party started early with a nice chilled glass (or 2) of Maltese Pinot Grigio, which was a rather civilised way of starting the evening. Sailed through customs and then we hit Gianpula straight away, getting papped at the entrance...

MALTA

JUNE 25—30

Once we got past the paps, we started our night in style with a few bottles of Malta’s very own Cisk lager. We had a quick wander and were just in time to catch Dash Berlin’s set in the Trance arena. Playing his favoured mix of trance classics with some housier tunes and a spot of vocal breakdowns, Dash played a blinder! We kept exploring the hidden recesses of Gianpula and got chatting to these lovely local kids. They told us they’d been queuing outside since 7pm (Gianpula opened at 8) and they were planning on being the last ones to leave - talk about party animals! It was the main arena of Gianpula that was really kicking off though - Calvin Harris and Mark Knight were keeping the dancefloor packed with tight sets of classic house and remixed party anthems. Our highlight was the dropping of the original version of You Got The Love, which got the entire arena singing out into the night sky, hands aloft. It was a spine-tingler! As we meandered around, we were bombarded by grinning faces and good vibes, which combined with the entirely open-air atmosphere made for a blissful evening, even though we’d literally just stepped off the jet! The sound and lighting was pretty awesome too - focused and clear and despite the lack of a roof, there was virtually no bleeding of sound between arenas, or loss of bass to the heavens. Fearsome strobes took us to the next level, as we partied under the inky-black sky, discoballs and stars twinkled alike and we left Gianpula feeling like we’d certainly kicked off our Malta Music Week in the best possible way.

PACEvILLE
Our evening in Paceville started off on a musical note, we saw some brilliant live music in the centre of the district and had an explore around the bars. We wandered around, taking in the sights and even popping into Portomaso marina where Becks has an apartment and we swung by a rather exclusive cigar and champagne bar. Alas we weren’t allowed to take any photos, but it was definitely a hotspot. The we ambled over to Spinola bay, had a look at the boats and then paused for an icecream and a drink. The live music was fantastic, and the crowd was buzzing; Paceville’s bustling, eclectic atmosphere is always busy but never feels crowded or dodgy. As we relaxed back, bottle of Cisk in hand, the world went by and we had a fantastic evening of barhopping.

CREAMFIELDS
After a delicious meal at the Xara Palace, overlooking the whole of Malta’s Northern coastline, we made our way to Creamfields Malta. The music was pumping from a distance, and as we neared, the party atmosphere became overwhelming. Despite a late start (arriving at 12.30am), we got stuck straight into Nic Fanciulli’s set in the Trance/Electro arena, and it was so good that we stayed there all evening! Unfortunately that meant we missed headliners Ferry Corsten and Eric Prydz, but the atmosphere and pumping basslines kept us dancing until the small hours. Even after we venture out to see what else was on offer, we were waylaid by the scratchy minimal of the Cream Garden that filled the main walkway, keeping us dancing amid crowds of Maltese partygoers. Without a doubt, it was an evening to remember, with pumping open-air bass and party vibes - Creamfields completely outdid itself and our Malta Music Week continued apace.

PRESS CONFERENCE
Last year, the diva that is Gaga kept the assembled press waiting for an hour and a half in the sweltering Maltese sun. This year, there was none of that shenanigans, and all the stars seemed terribly personable and civilised and very excited about the evening’s set! Kid Rock was very charismatic, Kelis’ dress was a Matthew Williamson maxi, the Scissor Sisters made us laugh and David Guetta was awesomely humble. It was a great introduction to meet the stars before the Main Event.

ISLE OF Mtv
Once we got started with the concert, there was no stopping us. Opening with Kelis megamix medley got us straight away into the holiday mood. She even did a special mashup of the classic tune Milkshake with Madonna’s Holiday, which sent the crowd into a frenzy. Her set was hard on the beats, like new album Flesh Tone, and whipped the crowd up, before the Scissor Sisters took the the giant, fluoroilluminated stage with their unique brand of falsetto new-disco. They played a blinder of a set, with all the big tunes from Take Your Mama Out up to the latest tracks from thir newest album. Next up was Kid Rock, whose brand of catchy Americana-rock went down fantastically well to an audience mostly made up of nonEnglish speakers. Rounding the night off was French electro master, David Guetta, who took some time out of his hectic tour schedule (a different city every day until September – except Thursdays when he’s in Ibiza) to rock Malta. And rock it he did, the response from the crowd was immense; seriously, we’ve rarely seen audience participation like it before, and the night ended in a crescendo of fireworks and banging tunes.

AFtERPARty
We were lucky enough to be staying in the same hotel as the acts, and managed to get into the afterparty at the pool. Imagine that glamorous party with gorgeous models lolling by a clear blue swimming pool, while a DJ spins some tunes, the booze flows and the smallish crowd dances on the beach under the stars. That was the party. Most of the stars held their own parties, but Kid Rock came down and chatted with us. I wish I could remember in more detail what we talked about, but alas I, like most of the assembled partygoers, was too drunk to keep precise notes on what was going on. Suffice it to say that we had a fantastic evening, which finished our Malta Music Week off in appropriately, fabulously glamorous style. Malta, we will be back – you rocked our world and we reckon we’ve got a new summer party destination going on; somewhere that’s more than just clubs and bars, somewhere with culture and architecture as well as world-class party venues. It’s time for the undiscovered party island of Malta to be discovered...

for More phoTos & coverage of MalTa Music weeK, see www.MalTalive.TuMblr.coM

FREE

EXCLuSIvE MIX
BY jODIE HARSH

DOWNLOAD STREAM
HERE HERE

GET IN THE MOOD FOR A MALTESE

SuMMER PARty
I’M IN THE HOUSE
StEvE AOKI

HAS OuR COvERAGE OF tHE MALtA MuSIC wEEK GOt yOuR HANKERING FOR SOME tuNES? wE’vE GOt A SuMMER tuNE MIX FROM Dj EXtRAORDINAIRE jODIE HARSH, wHICH IS SuRE tO GEt yOu IN tHE MOOD FOR A PARty, MALtA-StyLE.

HEADS WILL ROLL
yEAH yEAH yEAH’S (A-tRAK REMIX) The distinctive bassline of NY-artrock outfit the Yeah Yeah Yeahs is given a new spin by house producer A-Trak. Karen O’s vocals ring out over a dark beat; it’s club o’clock people!

Miami house producer Steve Aoki’s electrobooty-bass track makes for a perfect skulking to the bar soundtrack.

MOAR GHOSTS N’ STUFF
DEADMAu5

WHO WANTS TO BE ALONE
tIEStO FEAt NELLy FuRtADO (RObbIE RIvERA juICy REMIX) Nelly Furtado’s career has been in the ascendant recently and her collaboration with Mediterranean house superstar Tiesto pushes her skywards, with a rocket-powered catchy tune that’s been skilfully remixed here by Robbie Rivera.

Incomparable dance music? Look no further than revered Canadian proghouse maestros deadmau5. His trademark brand of ripping electro and an addictive bassline gets crowds out of their seats across the globe.

RAY OF LIGHT
MADONNA (jODIE HARSH REMIX) Jodie shows us what she’s made of with this mega-remix of Madonna’s seminal goodvibes track, Ray of Light. Tune of the mix, by far!

STEP BY STEP
LAIDbACK LuKE (bIG ROOM MIX) Laidback Luke blends some urban vibes and clickhouse atmosphere into a vocal house club classic that’s guaranteed to make any party go with a bang.

TURN THAT SHIT UP
tOM StEPHAN Crescendoing up like a wide eyed pterodactyl, Tom Stephan’s hard crunchy bass turns it up to 11.

jODIE HARSH IS DjING ACROSS tHE wORLD tHIS SuMMER; bE SuRE CHECK Out tHE tOuR DAtES At:

WWW.JODIEHARSH.COM

THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

NIGHTLIFE

FROM RAvERS’ DELIGHtS tO CHILLED NIGHtS OvER wINE, tHE MALtESE LOvE A GOOD tIME

Y

ou can’t wish a great nightlife scene out of

The place to start with understanding the Maltese nightlife is not with any of the amazing clubs, nor the wine scene, nor nightlife mecca Paceville, however—you have to start with a drink. The Maltese drink du choix is the Vodka Red Bull, which keeps spirits high. With this as their standard, who could doubt these beautiful islanders’ intent? It is best enjoyed with another celebrated local quality in the firework – most of the better bars will provide on request a bottle of vodka submerged in ice in a container hosting several cans of Red Bull, topped off with a host of dazzling

sparklers, sending all around into naughty birthday-like paroxysms.

on Gozo – built into a cliff face, offering an experience like no other.

the darkness—it has to grow on its own, out of necessity. Malta’s amazing nightlife scene exists for one reason: the people of Malta love a good time. They’re up for it. This is theirs, for them—and luckily for us they want to share it. Whether you’re rinsing it on a Friday at superclub Gianpula or lounging louche in a Valletta winebar, or anything in between, the key to enjoying yourself is remembering that the locals own the scene—if you can learn to love it as they do, you’re in for a treat.

If further proof were needed of the locals’ intent, or of the quality of the scene here, the Maltese superclubs should provide. Gianpula is equal to any outdoor club in Europe – 4,000 can party al fresco across five areas and take a dip in the venue’s pool while they’re at it. The recently refurb’d Numero Uno is promising a more Miamilike experience, which can only be good for the 4,000 who’ll attend their regular populist Saturdays and raveup Sundays. And then there’s the simply magical La Grotta

Talk to anyone in Malta – literally anyone, from students to government ministers – and they’ll tell you that the nightlife hub is Paceville. Crowded into a few narrow streets in St Julian’s, all human life really is here – from gay club Kloset sitting next to live music bar BJ’s, along to the three different tiers of the slick Shadow Lounge and more besides, the spread of revelry is quite overwhelming. Should you find it so, retreat up to nearby 22, on level 22 of the Hilton

THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

Tower, where you can take in an astonishing panorama of St Julian’s and indeed most of the island. If you’re still craving a beaachy vibe, head to the Westin Dragonara’s Bedouin Bar. It’s strewn with Moroccan furnishings, making it the perfect lounging spot both day and night.

you can look across the island’s rolling hillscape, the green dotted with church domes, each denoting a village. The Maltese platters are the typical dish offered in these places, and there’s nothing better than devouring great cheese, meats and bread with the wine as talk goes on and the night recedes.

basement on St Lucy Street, a romantic, bare stone place, intimate, naïve and humble, that brings to mind what it should be to eat, drink and talk, with no pretence.

And of course there’s plenty more besides these highlights: the regenerated Valletta Waterfront is as beautiful as it is buzzy,

All this accounted for, the nightlife scene wouldn’t quite be so rousing nor appealing if there weren’t an alternative on offer. The wine bar scene is amazing from one tip of the island to the other. You might start at The Fortress in Xemxija which offers beautiful views of St Pauls Bay from its terrace. Move down the island to Rabat, to find Tat-Tarag. Located on the city’s public steps, the view offered here is possibly even better: here, from Malta’s centre,

Cosmo capital Valletta has the pick of the wine bars, though. Typically located on those wonderful side streets off the main drag, it pays to explore and fall into one – which one could do literally, as they tend to be secreted in the basements of the gorgeous renaissance houses. One such is Trabuxu, an elegant affair located at the very top of formerly notorious Strait Street. Our favourite, however, is the unbelievably charming Legligin: a tiny renovated

with the lush Q Bar a must visit; and the Three Cities offer equal bar-based delights. It wouldn’t be a Med party trip without a beach party, and Paradise Bay offers all you could ask for. Whatever you’re after, Malta provides. The atmosphere – ecstatic, carefree, blissful and fun – is what makes it special. And just like everything else, that’s the locals’ doing.

THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

NIGHTLIFE/
legligin
Intimate, romantic and perfect—and the selection of wines is second to none, thanks to it’s magnificent owner, Chris, who embodies hospitality perfection. Call ahead to book a table, though, or you’ll be guaranteed to miss out.
+356.21.221.699 sT lucy sT, valleTTa

HIGHLIGHtS : BARS
TwoTwenTyTwo
Most likely the coolest place in Malta—located in Valletta’s bastions, exposed brickwork, a sepia-tinged palette, electronica and an amazing stepped water cascade combine to make this the natural creative industries hangout.
www.Two-TwenTyTwo.coM greaT siege roaD, valleTTa

Q bar
The Waterfront renovation is magnificent, and Q Bar’s interior does it justice. The 18th century vault is done out minimally, but comfortably; weekends see it turn clubtastic. You might dream of finding this place in Shoreditch or Berlin.
www.Qbar.coM.MT valleTTa waTerfronT, valleTTa

MinK bar & club
One for the young: excited, rowdy, frivolous and frantic. Mink is located at the top of St Julians’ shopping arcade, but inside you’re likely to find more than a bargain.
www.MinKMalTa.coM level 2, bay sT, sT Julians

luna lounge
If you’ve read our enthusings on the sublime Palazzo Parisio and you’re smitten, then Luna Lounge is a must—a fantastic cocktail bar on the ground floor. Practically the definition of chic.
www.palaZZoparisio.coM palaZZo parisio, naXXar

Del borgo
Del Borgo is simply about fine wines and great food. Unsurprisingly, it’s massively popular. Their platters are amazing, as are the ravjul (ravioli); but the wine… oh the wine! Book before you come, but definitely come.
www.DelborgoMalTa.coM sT DoMinic sT, birgu-viTToriosa

22
Definitely a glam-up gladrags joint – the slick 22 is likely to be rammed until the early hours by a dancing, champagne drenched crowd. The views, as we said, are second to none.
www.22.coM.MT level 22, porToMaso business Tower, sT Julians

THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

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THE uNDISCOvERED PARTY ISLANDS

NIGHTLIFE/
gianpula
One of the biggest and best clubs on the island has even more cause for celebration than usual in 2010 – it’s their 30th birthday and with truly epic style, they’ll be hosting Faithless on August 7th, and they’re also hosting Ministry for Malta Music Week. That should prove their quality to you. This gorgeous openair club is spread over five areas – Main Room, Molecule, Marrakech, the Grove Gardens and Gianpula Fields. Throughout the summer, Fridays see Gianpula host G7 Fridays, massive nights with the pick of the local scene playing; through the summer they’ll also have visitors like the Minus crowd, bringing MAGDA on 6th June, and an end-of-season bash with those Ministry guys again. Any party trip to Malta can’t be complete without a night here, trust us.
www.gianpula.coM gianpula roaD, rabaT

HIGHLIGHtS : CLUBS
la groTTa
Big regular weekend nights and occasional international star appearances are all well-and-good, but the La Grotta experience is so much more than that—as we’ve said elsewhere, this clubin-a-cliff-face is as unique and beautiful as anywhere we’ve lost it in the world. The rambling secret areas make it all the more amayjing.
www.lagroTTaleisure.coM XlenDi, goZo

nuMero uno
Having just undergone a big renovation inspired by the Miami scene, Malta’s other massive club is getting ready for an explosive summer season. Saturdays and Sundays are where it’s at here – their Summer Saturday Nights are promising a newly sophisticated experience befitting the next decade of clubbing. DJ Ruby’s Sunset Sundays are for the hardcore ravers among you – guaranteed to be huge.
www.clubnuMerouno.coM.MT Ta’ Qali crafTs village, rabaT

hugo’s passion / shaDow lounge
By far the busiest club on the island – or rather, clubs. Right in the heart of Paceville, Hugo’s Passion is guaranteed to be rammed whenever you head down there. Sitting on top of it is Shadow Lounge, self-styled ‘Most Exclusive Club in Malta’—if you get in, you’ll be treated to one of the slickest bar experiences of your life. It’s worth the hassle.
www.shaDowloungeMalTa.coM sT george’s roaD, paceville

CULTURE CLUBBING
It’S tHE MORNING AFtER tHE NIGHt bEFORE: ARE yOu GOING tO LIE IN A ROOM, SwELtERING IN MIDDAy HEAt wItH tHE CuRtAINS CLOSED? HOLIDAyS wAStED ALtERNAtELy LyING PRONE AND bEING PRANGED ARE SO DéMODé, DARLINGS. tO HELL wItH It—bE Out AND DOING! tHERE’S NO bEttER CuRE FOR wHAt AILS yOu. FOR ANyONE wHO’S EvER RuED tHE DAytIME tEDIuM OF MEDItERRANEAN PARty HOLIDAyS, MALtA PROvIDES.

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000 years of cosmopolitan, multicultural

means that a deliciously serene walk through the walled medieval city of Mdina is less than 20 minutes’ drive from bustling, beautiful Valletta, brimful of splendour, where politicians and judges happily chatter on the main drag of Republic Street while hipsters and the art kids lurk in dilapidated-chic back streets, starting up drive-in cinema clubs and art institutions to pass the time. Malta is for everyone who wants culture with their clubbing; to take a flavour of a place where the whole

Mediterranean across two continents meets and enjoys, with a hybrid culture enjoying elements from Arabic to English and millennia of history compressed into an island you can drive across in 30 minutes. Encompassed in these islands is the sophistication and excitement of a city break with the slow life of a resort. It’s kind of like paradise. We party every weekend at home – and plenty of week nights, too; yet we have jobs, we make things, blog, DJ, read, go places. The morning after the night before,

when you wake, rise and step out, you’ll get the itch to be out and doing, just like you always do—but at a slower pace, sun beating down, sunnies on, happy to stop and stare over a coffee, maybe have that first drink early. But before the late night starts again, and that urgency rises, you’ll take in an exhibition, see something old, something new, or something unbelievable. Here’s our guide to a few of the things on offer and a few of the people making it happen.

Mediterranean history come to bear on this tiny island and its fellows, a mixture at once racy and intoxicating, yet relaxed and louche. Whilst your evenings may have been up for it, the days are languid, yet still packed: your itinerary might stretch back 7000 years, with the oldest standing buildings in the world, but then race forward into tomorrow with cutting edge art. The island’s tiny size

CULTURE CLUBBING

nine unusual hangover cures

ST JOHN’S CO CATHEDRAL
sT John sTreeT, valleTTa

THE BEHEADING OF ST JOHN THE BAPTIST
sT John’s co-caTheDral, valleTTa

St John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta is a stonecold stunner, capable of inspiring the reverie and awe religious buildings are supposed to, though rarely manage. One of the first gifts of the Knights of the Order of St John to the island in the 1570s, its military-austere front belies a manic interior, an overwhelming mélange of gilt décor and an astonishing ceiling painted over five years by Mattia Preti as part of his redecorative works carried out in the 1660s. As your breath is taken away by what’s above, you hardly notice you’re standing on a floor patchworked with marble-inlay tombstones. It’s a match for any other cathedral in Europe.

Contained off a chapel in St John’s is a bonafide masterpiece: Caravaggio’s only signed painting, the huge, breathtaking Beheading of St John. The chiaroscuro technique brings the painting’s ongoing theatre vividly to life, as the executioner reaches for his knife to finish the job, holding John-Baptiste’s head, still attached to his body, blood draining away. As the Maltese remark: this is drama, theatre still occurring 400 years later.

Money MaTTers: €5.80 full enTry Do iT for: The caTholic wow facTor

Money MaTTers: €5.80 enTry To sT Johns co-caTheDral Do iT for: The creD – caravaggio is The renaissance hipsTer posTer boy

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CULTURE CLUBBING

nine unusual hangover cures

UPPER BARRAKKA GARDENS
valleTTa, near casTille place

THE GRAND MASTER’S PALACE & ARMOURY
republic sT, valleTTa

Simply a must visit for stunning views. The Upper Barrakka Gardens offer a quiet relief from the city’s bustle of meet and greet, showcasing the majesty of the Grand Harbour, its deep blue waters, stunning scenes, and the envy-inspiring super-yachts of the super rich, all backed by the majestic Three Cities. One level below the gardens is the Gun Saluting battery of cannons; the central cannon is fired at noon every day to mark the time (and also scare the life out of you if you’re unexpecting).
Money MaTTers: free Do iT for: The views if you’re roManTic; The cannons if you’re angsTy.

The home of government in Malta since the time of the Knights is as fittingly opulent as you’d expect from a city as rich in visual drama as Valletta, and still today hosts the Office of the President and the House of Representatives. The palace is also stuffed to bursting with historical artefacts, gorgeous frescoes, artisan-crafted furniture and fine art ahnd an armoury with over 5000 pieces of military hardware. Power knows how to do right by itself.

Money MaTTers: €10 full enTry To sTaTe rooMs & arMoury Do iT for: a reMinDer of how The oTher half live.

MDINA
The tiny, ancient walled city is aptly nicknamed the Silent City: serene calm is settled over the entire city, a heavy yet pleasant sensation which you succumb to on entering through its gate. Narrow medieval streets occasionally open out onto beautiful squares dominated by noble palaces. We suggest romantic evening strolls, feeling like the only people alive, before enjoying nearby Rabat’s wonderful winebars.

Money MaTTers: free To enTer The ciTy; MuseuMs anD churches May charge. Do iT for: The aTMosphere.

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CULTURE CLUBBING

nine unusual hangover cures

PALAZZO PARISIO
vicTory sQuare, naXXar

HAL-SAFLIENI HYPOGEUM
coMMune of paola

Another perfect romantic destination is found in the northern village of Naxxar: the demurely-fronted Palazzo Parisio contains such an opulent interior that it has come to be known as the mini-Versailles: mirrored walls, trompes-l’oeil, fine frescos and magnificent marble combine to delightfully overwhelm – and all of this is only inside. Out back are quite majestic gardens, stretching off and enticingly arrayed for a slow sauntering that could last forever.

Like the Neolithic temples, you must really visit the Hypogeum before you can appreciate its effect. Phrases like “only underground prehistoric temple in the world” (which it is, btw) don’t really connect until you actually visit. A nice anecdote to warm you up is how this UNESCO World Heritage Site was discovered a hundred years ago by accident; imagine! If you do intend to visit, which you should, book in advance: only 80 people can visit per day in order to preserve it.

Money MaTTers:€9 Do iT for: inDulging Marie-anToineTTe-baseD fanTasies; anD The garDens for a sun-DrencheD alTernaTive To The beach

Money MaTTers: €5.80 full enTry Do iT for: The neoliThic wow facTor

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CULTURE CLUBBING

nine unusual hangover cures

CITTADELLA
vicToria, goZo

NEOLITHIC TEMPLES
hagar QiM, MnaJDra & TarXien

The Cittadella is a quite unbelievable place: atop a hill (which requires no little breathsapping climbing to reach) above Gozo’s capital, Victoria; walled-in and tiny; and above all, ancient. Its history stretches back to the Bronze Age, around 1500BC, and Roman carvings can still be seen on its walls, along with their ancient equipment for grinding out olive oil. At the Cittadella’s centre is a beautiful baroque cathedral, famous for its tromp-l’oeil ceiling painting of a dome that was never built. From the Cittadella’s ramparts are stunning views of all Gozo, a glorious rolling green landscape punctuated by the red and silver domes of local churches. It’ll take your breath away, presuming you have any left after that climb.
Money MaTTers: free To enTer The ciTTaDella Do iT for: The eXercise, if noThing else.

One of Malta’s great stop-you-dead qualities is the reach of its history. It’s all well and good to say it has temples that are 7000 years old, but such statements tend to brush off you like so many tedious history lessons. However, to walk through the perfectly formed archway into one of these free standing structures, with their complete walls of enormous stone and realise that they are 1000 years older than the mediocre rocks of Stonehenge which we so venerate is a moment of astonishment. 1000 years older! 1000 years back from today there were Vikings here.

Money MaTTers: €9, €9 anD €6 respecTively. Do iT for: The MoMenT of revelaTion – iT really will sTop you DeaD.

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CULTURE CLUBBING

Ten MinuTe hisTory lesson tOuR GuIDE EXtRAORDINAIRE CLIvE CORtIS GIvES uS A tEN MINutE LESSON ON tHE ENtIRE HIStORy OF MALtA.

“Ok, now focus! So, in 5000BC we have the first inhabitants of Malta, who came from Sicily. We know this because of pottery that was found in a cave here which matches perfectly with pottery of Ragusa, south-east Sicily. They cross the channel 90 km, they came here. They lasted until 4100 BC; they lived in caves; they were the Neolithic. From 4100—2500BC we have the Temple Period. In these 1500 years, more than 20 megalithic sites were built, spread around Malta – 5 in Gozo, along with underground sites which were dug. “From 2500—800 BC, this is the Bronze Age, still just prehistory. A new culture reached our island, totally different from the Temple one; in fact, there was an abrupt end to the Temple culture in the year 2600 and this new culture came later

from Southern Italy. During excavations we found metal tools; we know that they are different because the Neolithic and Temple tools were stone and flint, imported, and hard local stone. They built their settlements on the top of the hill; their dead were not buried but cremated; it shows a totally different culture. “Then from 800—500BC it was the Phoenicians – where Lebanon is today, there used to be Phoenicia. That’s when written history in Malta starts, because in Rabat we found on a tomb the first written evidence, dedications to the goddess Osiris, a goddess of the Phoenicians. Then 500—218BC we were ruled by the Carthaginians from Carthage north Africa; they were like the Phoenicians in that the Phoenicians left the east Mediterranean, they moved further up

west, to avoid all the trouble that was going on in the Middle East. “Now, in the year

218BC until 6th century AD we were ruled by the Romans; and until 871AD is Byzantine. 871—1090AD we have the Arabs; what we
still have from there are few remains, but this is where we have our language from. Then, in 1090AD we have Count Roger the Norman; we were re-Christianised here. But Count Roger let the Arabs keep ruling the whole archipelago until 1127AD, when King Roger, the son of Count Roger, expelled all the Arabs. In fact we have marble and stone tombstones of Maimuna: she was a 21 year old who died in Gozo in 1174; there is an Arabic poem inscribed on this, so we still were speaking Arabic even here. What happened most probably was that when Malta was ruled by the Latin

world, the locals were still communicating in this Arabic–Maltese language, Siculo-Arabic, whatever you’ll call it. “From 1127—1530, we were a feudal state under various rulers, Aragonese, Castillian and so on. Now 1530–1798 was the Knights of St John, the Christian order of knights who were given Malta by Spanish king Charles V to defend Rome against the Ottoman Empire; then Napoleon for 2 years (1798—1800) before he was expelled by the Maltese, and then 1800—1964 Malta is a British colony and until 1979 was the

Mediterranean Naval Base. Officially Malta
became a colony in 1814 and became a Re-

public 13th December, 1974. We joined
the EU in 2004.”

5000BC

2500BC

800BC

500BC

CULTURE CLUBBING

Ten MinuTe hisTory lesson

218BC

871BC

1090AD

1127

1530

1798

1800

1974

2004

ISLAND

RECORDS

delVe deePer into the mAltese wAy of life with these stunning little PodcAst gems; the Perfect listening mAteriAl while you’re lAzing At the BeAch, they will definitely insPire you to exPlore further into the islAnd’s hidden corners.

A wAlk in VAllettA
Brief introduction to the UNESCO Heritage Trail podcasts. Here we also suggest a one day visit to Valletta with 12 highlights and interesting features not to be missed while walking around.
click here to downloAd

the megAlithic temPles: trAces of A lost ciVilisAtion
Maltese archaeologist Reuben Grima explains why Malta’s megalithic temples of ĦaÄ¡ar Qim, Mnajdra, Tarxien, and the complexes of Ta’ ĦaÄ¡rat and Skorba can be considered unique architectural master pieces, evidence of an advanced prehistoric civilisation flourishing on the islands 5,000 years ago.

click here to downloAd

lost And recoVered: the drAmA of cArAVAggio’s stolen mAsterPiece
Former Museums Director Fr Marius Zerafa relates the gripping episode of how he managed to recover the Caravaggio masterpiece of St Jerome, after it had been stolen from St John’s Co-Cathedral in 1984. He also describes the tecnique used by Caravaggio in his paintings.

click here to downloAd

mAltA: A sentimentAl journey
Final episode of the series in which three visual artists - James Vella Clark, Kenneth Zammit Tabona and Laurent Muller - explain how they relate to Valletta and what it means to live in Malta today. An emotional journey where the islands’ characteristic elements of light, shadow, stone and sea become a vital source of inspiration.

click here to downloAd

BAck to the future: renzo PiAno’s Project for VAllettA
Maltese architect Konrad Buhagiar talks about Renzo Piano’s new and exciting architectural plans and designs for the building of a new City Gate, Parliament and Opera House at the entrance of Valletta, and how the city will be transformed as a result of Piano’s architectural designs.

click here to downloAd

sPeciAl for kids: PoPeye’s VillAge
How the set of the movie Popeye became a wonderful theme park for children and their parents. click here to downloAd

mediterrAneAn film studios: the sPeciAl effects shoP
Maltese artist and music critic Kenneth Zammit Tabona recalls his first visit to the Manoel Theatre and his involvement ever since, while actor and theatre critic Paul Xuereb shares his experience at the Manoel as an actor on the stage of this intimate baroque theatre commissioned by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena. In the second part of the podcast Chris Gatt, director of St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity, presents the Centre and its varied cultural activities.

click here to downloAd

the mini-hollywood of the mediterrAneAn
Brief introduction to the second series of the VisitMalta podcasts. Why Malta is great for filming - and for holiday too! click here to downloAd

fort ricAsoli: the secret set
Interview with Marquis Nicholas de Piro, owner of Casa Rocca Piccola, a lived-in noble house museum. He recounts his family and house history from the time of the Knights of Malta until the present day.
click here to downloAd

st john’s co-cAthedrAl, sAnctuAry of the knights of mAltA
Giorgio who highlights the details of St John’s Co-Cathedral and its baroque interior, the impressive marble floor and the famous Caravaggio paintings: the Beheading of St John and St Jerome. click here to downloAd

music in mAltA
Interview with the philosopher and poet Joe Friggieri about Maltese folk and classical music and the much loved Maltese composer Charles Camilleri, who will be remembered as a major exponent of Maltese musical productions of the last century. The second part presents Ruben Zahra, a young and talented composer who derives inspiration from traditional music to create a more classical contemporary style. Finally an introduction to the general music scene in Malta today.

click here to downloAd

theAtres in VAllettA
Maltese artist and music critic Kenneth Zammit Tabona recalls his first visit to the Manoel Theatre and his involvement ever since, while actor and theatre critic Paul Xuereb shares his experience at the Manoel as an actor on the stage of this intimate baroque theatre commissioned by Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena. In the second part of the podcast Chris Gatt, director of St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity, presents the Centre and its varied cultural activities.

click here to downloAd

ALT MALTA
OFF tHE MAIN DRAG, DOwN bACK StREEtS uNDER DILAPIDAtED RED LIGHt SIGNS; IN NEw ARt GALLERIES AND IN CAR PARKS; IN bAND CLubS AND ON COvERED bALCONIES—AwAy FROM tHE CLubS, wE ASSESS MALtA’S tHRILLING ALtERNAtIvES.
No one can live in the past. Malta’s rich heritage may lead to that temptation, and the islands may have been guilty about that once – but no more, as new generations of bright young internationalists fight the brain drain, amplify the diaspora’s clamouring voices and inspire a bleedingedge, forward alternative scene...

KINEMASTIK
Film shouldn’t be the solitary endeavour enforced by the multiplex, and the cinematic event should not occur in the media. Film can create an international atmosphere in a local space, bring a babble of voices to a room where there was silence and a thousand ideas to challenge the majority. Film can and should be a public event, filled with talk and drink and excitement; its content should be challeng-

ing and shocking and joyful; Maltese NGO Kinemastik, via their own events and through collaborations with international groups around the world, like straight8 and Le Gun from the UK and the Milano Film Festival in Italy, has since 2006 been re-energising and empowering the local film scene in Malta – and by extension, they hope, the whole alternative community. Their year-round programme sees them showing films in art galleries and collaborating with local promoters on gigs and, most recently, they’ve begun a sellout drive-in film club in an old parking lot, drawing on that joyful collective memory of perfect teenhood experience while imbuing the Maltese alterna-

tive scene with those dissonant pleasures of transgressive, furtive communal experience. By bringing the international underground, both of today and the recent past, into the gorgeous disused backstreets, Kinemastik is dedicated to creating an atmosphere where art and culture can flourish outside the mainstream; something their charismatic frontwoman Emma Mattei thinks is vital to kick-starting a renaissance in the arts amongst the new generation. Their 6th International Short Film Festival runs this year from 6-8th August, with events all over Malta and Gozo and films from all over the world; it’s a chance to see cinema as it could be – exciting, visceral, communal.

MALTA CONTEMPORARY ART
CuttING EDGE ARt bRINGING A MuCH NEEDED DIALOGuE tO tHE MALtESE SCENE
“To grow, art in Malta needs the diaspora; it also needs confidence. Even though it’s old, Malta as a country is still very young. It needs confidence and examples in order to develop.” This is Mark Mangion, founder of the Malta Contemporary Art Foundation, an institution devoted to contemporary art in Malta. It’s the first and only of its kind, ultimately designed as a platform for ideas of the kind there hasn’t seemed to be room for in Malta, presenting challenging international contemporary work that the islands have been starved of in order to encourage and ultimately offer support to a local scene which Mangion believes is very much absent. The international remit of the gallery is testament to Mangion’s own CV – trained in painting in New York and sculpture at the RCA in London, his work has shown globally. Cyprien Galliard, the Parisien-Berliner whose work (suitably for Malta) connects modernism’s ruin with ancient monuments, is showing at the space in June; Galliard’s lush discord of brutality and beauty in our relationship to landscape, shown through a mix of media including film, sculpture, photography and performance, is a perfect example of the intelligent art which the MCA is importing to Malta as they try to bring the country into the international conversation. Mangion understands that what is lacking is a diverse, two-way dialogue; the happy result of that is an exceptional gallery showing truly exciting work.

MalTa conTeMporary arT sT JaMes cavalier, casTille sQuare, valleTTa vlT1060 www. MalTaconTeMporaryarT. coM

ALT
MALtA

ST JAMES CAVALIER
CENTRE FOR CREATIVITY MALTA
Ask anyone in Malta where to go for a bit of kull-chah, and there’s only one place they’ll respond: St James Cavalier. The Centre for Creativity, the national contemporary arts centre is based in an astonishing 16th Century defensive bastion with all the attendant wonderful nooks and corners such buildings possess. Here, they are crammed with performance spaces, cinemas, theatre, art and delightful architectural foibles. Initially, the joy is one of discovery simply walking around. Aside from an exceptional programme running throughout the year – including contemporary theatre always performed in English and regular classics and contemporary films from the arthouse circuit, as well as hosting its own shows and providing space to the MCA on the top floor – St James really comes into its own as a hub for culture in Malta. Want to know what exhibitions are going on in Valletta, or round the island? What lowkey gigs are going on, or just about anything else? A foyer filled with flyers and informed staff are there to guide you to your taste’s desire.

vALLEttA’S CENtRE FOR CREAtIvIty LIvES uP tO ItS NAME, FORMING tHE

CuLtuRAL Hub OF MALtA VISUAL ARTS
Alongside the MCA upstairs, St James has two art spaces: the main hall and the atrium. There are plenty of local artists shown in its wonderful nooks and corners too.

CINEMA
Classics from Withnail & I to Fellini are screened most days, while new releases are shown here, the island’s only arthouse cinema, throughout the year.

THEATRE
Malta’s great thespian heritage is well catered for here: the programme is modern and performed in English. NT shows are screened in HD.

MUSIC
The New York Met Opera’s whole season is screened in HD, while the centre also nurtures young local talent, particularly chamber music.

sT JaMes cavalier cenTre for creaTiviTy pJaZZa KasTilJa valleTTa vlT1060

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www.sJcav.org

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MALtA

WALKING MALTA
tHE ONLy wAy tO SEE tHE REAL

KAZINI
A ‘kazin’ is a local band club (or possibly political party club), typically a centre of Maltese community life. Each band will be associated with a saint, and it is from here and the church that their festa preparations are created. They have a rough and ready feel, immediately comfortable; bright religious idols are scattered through the room. With cheap drinks and comfortable old locals, they’re not dissimilar to working men’s clubs—except that they’re much more welcoming. It’s here most of the arts and fringe scenesters will go to drink, rather than the over-polished clubs. “The kind of place creatives go to, to create their own entertainments,” as photographer Alexandra Pace puts it to us. We’d advise that you go to the King’s Own Band Club on Republic Street in Valletta, which even has a swanky upstairs area-come-gallery space for members only. Whatever you do, make sure to talk to someone there—the best way to understand Maltese hospitality.

MALtA

Down Strait Street in Valletta, the old haunt of off-duty naval officers and Malta’s former red light district, there remain boarded up bars with turned-off garish signs hanging over them. If you walk it on the right day, you can see a retired seaman standing there, remembering his youth. On Republic St there are ghosts of the women who preened in those

closed balconies and enchanted travellers. Bumble about elsewhere and you’ll see other clues to Malta’s makeup – doll-like Virgins in glass-fronted boxes outside people’s houses, small statues of saints on street corners. Take a ride on those beautiful old ‘bone-shaker’ buses in discomfort, filled with nostalgic Kerouacian dreams, and ride to a village to drink 50 cent tea or €1.50 beer with locals who’ll gladly chat the day away.

ALT
MALtA

ARCHIGASM!
A quICK GuIDE tO vALLEttA’S StuNNING ARCHItECtuRE
It was while walking the streets of Valletta that we first lost our heart to the Maltese islands. Byron, clubfoot that he was, loathed Valletta for “those dreaded steps”. Today, we defy anyone not to walk Valletta’s cobbled streets, arrayed in a perfect grid, and not gawp at the delights above them. Our guide simply rues that the Maltese “never look up at the wealth we have”. Valletta was born in the 1566, to celebrate the Order of St John’s victory against the Ottomans in the great siege. Its early character is an austere renaissance style, austere due to military necessity. 100 years later, military fears relaxed and Valletta became primarily commercial, and the beautiful baroque facades came into prominence. The aesthetic whole, however, is held together by the lush warm cream of the Maltese stone. Konrad Buhagiar tells us the great feature of Valletta is the closed Maltese balcony. The first was the astonishing long example on the Grand Master’s palace; this was then copied by wealthier families, becoming an important element on Valletta’s streetscape. Most appealing is how “the balcony became the main protagonist in traveller’s journals in the 19th century—together with the Maltese women.” Because Valletta was a port, it was dishonourable for a woman to be seen talking to a man in the street – so the closed balcony became a female space. “If you read those travellers descriptions, there’s always an image of a balcony with a woman on it. They came together.”

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ALT
MALtA

VALLETTA
A NEW START
RENzO PIANO’S REDEvELOPMENt OF tHE ENtRANCE tO vALLEttA HAS bEEN OvER 20 yEARS IN tHE MAKING. NOw tHAt tHE PLANS HAvE FINALLy bEEN GIvEN tHE GO-AHEAD, AN EXCItING FutuRE FOR tHE CAPItAL AwAItS.

The big story on the ground when we were last in Malta was that renowned architect Renzo Piano’s scheme to redevelop the entry way to Valletta had finally been approved. 50 years of argument are concluded (it’s been 20 since Piano submitted his first plan), passions spent. The project, rebuilding the main gate to the city and renovating the gutted opera house, will be ready for 2012. “Valletta is a symbol in the Maltese mind, it’s our window to the world,” says architect Konrad Buhagiar whose firm are working with Piano on this project, by way of explaining the fierce debate. “Many people were worried that the plans did not blend into the style of Valletta – but it has been through any number of styles! What brings everything together is the use of Maltese stone, whilst the designs are contemporary.” Just within the new gate, the main entrance to Valletta, will be a new parliament building; behind it, on the site of the opera, an open air theatre. One of Piano’s main traits is his use of public space – consider his projects like Paris’ Pompidou Centre and Berlin’s Potsdamerplatz for example.

Buhagiar says, “He’s interested as an architect not just in the building, but the life around it. That’s what Valletta needs – not a parliament building, not a theatre, but a project for Valletta.” It thrills us to think that what is now a fairly desolate space will soon be humming with life. “When I last went to Pompidou, it was such a joy to see the people using the place – just like his drawings, even down to the little girl with the balloon!” Ultimately, what has been overcome to succeed in this project is a tepid, conservative approach to Valletta; Piano’s scheme indicates towards an exciting future: “the concept that heritage is open-ended has only recently taken root here,” says Buhagiar. Valletta saw few noteworthy constructions (and lots of destruction) during the 20th century. Now, in the 21st, “as people see things, they understand better. Today we say, ‘I want to keep the spirit of the old, but I want to do something that is new.’ We want to leave our mark, but for it to be something of quality that will be respected in the future. I think we’re on a good track.”

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CULTURE CLUBBING

GOZO
THE ULTIMATE ESCAPE
tHOuGH tHE PARty SCENE ON MALtA MAy buzz AND tHROb LIKE NO OtHER, tHE OvERALL IMPRESSION ONE RECEIvES OF tHE ISLAND AS A wHOLE IS StILL tHAt OF A LAIDbACK IDyLL. yEt juSt A 20 MINutE FERRy RIDE NORtH LIES ANOtHER ISLAND wHICH MAKES MALtA SEEM FILLED wItH tHE ANGSty FIzz OF A MEtROPOLIS: GOzO. NO bEttER PLACE tO tAKE yOu Out OF tHE CLubS AND INtO tHE GOOD LIFE.

G
for More inforMaTion on The islanDs go To: www.visiTMalTa.coM

ozo is a haven of tranquillity: it is dissected, from the ferry port south-east to west, and north to south, by two main roads, which almost at the island’s centre, the capital Victoria (Rabat in the local language), which sits at the highest and therefore most defensible point.

From the astonishing CITADELLA (see page 24), the medieval walled city which rises above Victoria, you see the limits of the island almost in every direction: gentle, green rolling hills and occasional streaks of clay and local stone form the natural landscape; red or silver church domes spot the landscape, with small villages dotted around them; there are farms, like TA’MENA, are scattered around. It feels, here, as though an ideal of Mediterranean living from everyone’s collective memory have been realised and protected from the ravages of the 20th Century.

Anyone seeking a pure detox during a party trip to the archipelago should aim to spend two days in Gozo. Amazing beaches, such as DWEJRA’S inland beach and the red-sanded RAMLA BAY are lapped by pristine translucent blue waves. Settle yourself down to one and you’ll find it difficult to move. (In fact, we’d suggest renting a car as the island’s diverse terrain makes it a fantastic place for off-the-beaten track exploring.)

CULTURE CLUBBING

The landscape itself of Gozo provides plenty of intrigue: from the beautiful natural rock arch over the sea, the AZURE WINDOW (which co-starred alongside Brad Pitt in a scene of Troy), to CALYPSO’S CAVE, where legend has it that the nymph Calypso kept Homer’s Odysseus ‘prisoner of love’. The views from here are as enchanting as you imagine that which Homer succumbed to was—Ramla Bay and the

Mediterranean beyond. There are, of course, plenty of human endeavours to marvel at, too: 7000 years worth, actually. From the Neolithic temples of GGANTIJA to the pastoral perfection of TA’ KOLA WINDMILL just nearby, an 18th century addition which instantly transports you the 200-odd years to a time of rural living, a living that just seems to make sense when here on Gozo. In fact, that is the

island’s great draw: combining the history, the landscape, the churches, amazing resorts or hidden gems like St Lucy’s Square and The Museum of Toys, Gozo offers something beyond all of these things. A vision of a life completely opposite to your own—rural, rich, lush, slow; after the hard nights of partying you’ll be doing, there’s really no better escape.

how To geT There: a regular ferry operaTes for passengers anD cars froM Mgarr in The norTh of MalTa To The porT of cirKewwa in goZo. for inforMaTion anD TiMeTables conTacT The goZo channel coMpany aT www.goZochannel.coM

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CUISINE
“It is Mediterranean passion – the passion of living; and food and drink are a very important part of living,” says Sammut. And if Malta is at the Med’s centre, what does that mean for your cuisine? It’s polyglot? “It is of course! We are the belly of the Mediterranean, which is the heart of the world.” Sammut is not your simple restaurateur, but is also a highly noted foodie. Who better than to explain the particularities of Malta’s strain of Mediterranean cuisine? “Our cuisine is very close to the Sicillian, but we are bridging the Mediterranean. Our traditional cuisine if you like is mostly Siculo-Arabic, but more Siculo than Arabic. For instance, the Sicilian would be pasta, baked pasta, ravjul; but the Arabic would be couscous, thick soup with the little pasta.” Rabbits are also a great Maltese delicacy, “though one of the grand masters declared that the killing of rabbit was forbidden, because he wanted to go hunting. And there was actually a revolt because of the rabbit! It was called the Uprising of the Priests.” The lesson here is, never

EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY

MALtA IS tHE StEPPING StONE bEtwEEN twO CONtINENtS, but tHE PEOPLE ON tHE EDGES OF tHE SEA wHICH SEPARAtES tHEM HAvE ALwAyS FOuND MORE IN COMMON wItH EACH OtHER tHAN tO DIvIDE tHEM. SHARED CLIMAtE, HIStORy, LINEAGE, PASSION, MENtALIty AND SEvERAL MILLENNIA OF RELAtIONS ARE juSt SOME OF tHE REASONS; yEt juLIAN SAMMut, tOwERING MALtESE REStAuRAtEuR, wOuLD SAy tHAt SIttING At tAbLE tOPS tHEM ALL.
get between a Maltese and his rabbit. We’re surprised it’s not in the book of proverbs. Sammut’s restaurant, Salini, is near the tip of Sliema, with an astonishing view across the waters taking in the whole of the Valletta peninsula. It’s a suitable vision: Valletta has always been Malta’s window to the Med, and a reminder of the multicultural heritage fits such a multicultural enterprise. “Here we have foods here from 13 different countries in the Mediterranean. From France to the straits of Gibraltar, Maltese,

Moroccan, Tunisian, Italian and so on.” It’s also a quite magnificent sight, should you need the distraction—which you won’t. Food, ambience and wine combine to overwhelming delight with good company, as the culture insists. Sammut’s credo is simple, “I believe sitting at table should be a celebration. You start to eat late and it goes on forever. You eat slowly, you get drunk slowly, and everybody gets emotional, lots of hugging… I like sharing food.” It’s an admirable philosophy, and typically Mediterranean: streams of dishes for sharing will pass by over the course of the night, of every Mediterranean origin (which goes for the ingredients, too). “[Food writer] Claudia Roden, who was born and bred in Cairo, said in the introduction to one of her books, ‘if you are born anywhere in the Mediterranean, you

feel accepted anywhere on its shores.’ That is so true.” What Sammut and indeed his restaurant reminds us of primarily, however, is that curiously Mediterranean and particularly appealing “passion of living” which infects the Maltese life and its cuisine. “I always say I am Mediterranean before European. Any talk of Switzerland, Germany, I develop an allergy. Shouting in the streets, this is what life is about. Do you know what Disraeli said about Valletta? In his time, people would bring herds of goats from the villages and milk them outside the houses; and so, obviously the goats would leave something behind. So Disraeli described Valletta as ‘that city of bells, yells and smells.’” He laughs a little. What Disraeli evidently meant as an insult, Sammut wields as a compliment. It’s hard to disagree with him.

salini resTauranT Tigné poinT, slieMa www.salini.coM.MT

39

CUISINE
THE GOOD LIFE
tA’MENA, GOzO
HEAvEN IN tHE FORM OF AGRO-tOuRISM. yOu’LL FEEL yOu’vE NEvER LIvED SO GOOD.
offers exclusive wines, cheese, olive oil, capers, bread, sundried tomatoes whole and as a paste and plenty more, all produced by the farm. The driveway next to it enters the estate; several large dogs lie sleeping; behind the shop, a gazebo; and just beyond the bread oven. The Maltese government plans to make Gozo a model of eco-tourism and sustainability by 2020; pointing the way they have no better example than the Ta’Mena Estate, the first agro-tourism complex across the archipelago. “Where tradition is daily life”, their motto states; a more enchanting vision of life would be difficult to find. Ta’Mena rests on a hill, at a roadside leading into the capital Victoria; in the opposite direction, the Mediterranean lies alluringly between two hills. A small wooden hut, the shop-front, What we can’t enthuse to you enough is the bliss you feel sitting here, nor just how good a life could be lived surviving
Ta’Mena esTaTe rabaT roaD, Xaghra, goZo www.TaMena-goZo.coM

from it. In a fifteen minute sitdown behind the shop with the lady of the estate, we are staggered by the simple, delicious food and wine offered. Bread with sundried tomato paste, basil leaves and capers in white wine vinegar— it’s unbelievable, this combination. The tomatoes are sundried according to tradition, left in large tin trays on the roof for two weeks during the hottest part of summer. The wines are heady, the sun that succours lending luminescence to both taste and colour. The capers are… amazing, nothing like the awful, rubbery tosh we’re used to. This is the good life completely unlike Felicity Kendal’s; and even if climate change turns out to be a scam, this ecotourism experience is enough to turn you green all on its own.

The dirt road disappears up the hill amongst the lines of olive groves, citrus trees, vines. The sun beats down on it all. Agro-tourism involves living sustainably on the produce from the area you’re staying in; this is the central offer of Ta’Mena, with several farmhouses available for rent. They also offer agricultural tours of the vineyards, winery, olive grove and orchard, as well as fruit and vegetable picking.

40

opens onto the road; it

AN INTRODUCTION TO MALTA’S RISING StARS
MalTa MighT be sMall buT iT’s goT soMe MighTy Movers anD shaKers in The arT worlD

ALEXANDRA PACE
phoTographer, arTisT, Designer, gallery owner, allrounDer

Half way into conversation with Alexandra Pace, we begin to wonder whether she could be Malta’s entire creative industry on her own: both fashion and art photographer, graphic designer, gallerist and entrepreneur, she appears to be a one woman cultural renaissance. Fortunately the islands are awash with many such talents, but there’s one daunting moment when you take in her range that it seems – well, impressive. Pace has lived in Malta all her life and is self-taught both in photography and design,

which makes pursuing a successful freelance career in both all the more impressive, given she was only born in 1977. Significantly, she’s lived in Malta all her life; we say ‘significantly’ because, primarily, her most exciting art photography is very much concerned with Malta and its social undercurrents. Her collection ‘Santa Marija’ was shot over the huge Maltese holiday weekend around August 15th, when all Malta stops and, in her words, “goes to the beach. This is what Santa Marija weekend looks

like, literally under the surface.” Shot with a plastic lens fish-eye, the marble-like images have a colour palette unique to each beach they were shot at, equally capturing unique human scenes – a child, teens, elderly – suspended momentarily within the glass ball. They’re quite heartbreakingly, sweetly honest. This contrasts with two wonderful series Pace showed along with Santa Marija at her gallery 68 St Lucy St (currently being renovated): Boutique and Soldier Boy both show nudes in high

contrast black and white: the latter inspired by anatomy drawings, the former displaying a female nude amidst mannequins. In both, true form and identity are lost beneath the pleasing chiaroscuro, depth and honesty hidden by superficial lustre. Perhaps inspired by the conflict she herself feels, the artist and the commercial photographer? “The art certainly gets the reaction! And it’s certainly more expressive. I don’t put my… my whole, my heart into the commercial work like I do this.”
www.aleXanDrapace.coM

ALEXANDRA PACE

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PEOPLE

CHARLES & RON
sTars of The local fashion scene: only The MosT glaMorous neeD apply.

They are undoubtedly the superstars of Maltese fashion: the premiere event of the fashion calendar here is designers Charles & Ron’s biannual shows, each new season a step up in their quest to glamorise the islands. Charles & Ron are definitely internationally-minded, having shown in Milan, Rome, Amsterdam and Toronto among other places; yet they are well rewarded at home, with three Maltese fashion awards and a thriving home business. Ron, who is Dutch,

indicates why: “They know how to enjoy life a lot. People work here, but it is not the most important thing in life. Very important is eating, meeting friends… The best thing is to make friends here. It’s very easy!” So, Charles, the Maltese half of the islands’ premiere fashion partnership: how would you characterise the Maltese style? “There’s a big contrast between what you might see on the street, completely laid-back and relaxed style during the day,”

he explains, “and then on the other hand, when people go out here, or there’s a big event, they go full-on glamour; there’s a great culture of buying or making a new dress for the festas” which they both really appreciate, but as they put it, “it’s not really fashionable.” Charles & Ron woman, it’s fair to say then, is not your typical Maltese, regardless of their love for the country. So who would wear these lush, flowing constructions, sleek shaped with

outré adornments like giant silk bows? “She would have to be very glamorous – we love glamorous women, very feminine. Really I don’t mind the size of a woman, so long as she knows how to carry it – that’s the important thing. I would like to dress Barbara Streisand, and Ron, Beyonce. Charles & Ron woman is there to move around – she’s there to be noticed.”

www.charlesanDron.coM

PEOPLE

CHASING PANDORA
goZoTan folKsTers live The gooD-life

Gozo, the small bucolic idyll off the coast of Malta, is a kind of paradise. Not, perhaps, for pseudo-vagrant debauchees or sordid thrill-seekers; but for anyone with a desire to live beyond thirty, its Mediterranean Laurie Lee landscape is intoxicating enough alone; call it Stella Artois advert chic. What you have to understand about Gozo is that it is tiny, but it is also very much its own place, with its own identity. What’s charming and striking

about Chasing Pandora, the self-styled “only band on Gozo”, is their relationship to their origins – they may fly to London for a radio session, or to a gig Toronto, but they’ll take that pastoral Gozitan romance with them, not leave it behind. It imbues their music, a light, carefree, faintly atmospheric acoustica, with melting freedom; singer Melissa Portelli may dreamily coo of desperately dark matters, but no matter – their sound is buoyant, sundrenched,

lackadaisical rolling in hills. “We’re influenced by everything we love,” she says. “We couldn’t put our finger on what we sound like. The important thing to me is that the lyrics are meaningful, that they’re there for a reason. I’m definitely inspired by nature, that’s for sure. Nature doesn’t love me because I’m allergic to everything!” Surely the ambience comes from a lifestyle thing? “Just being by the water is something. We live by the sea. I like hanging

out at the beach, just hanging out with friends.” Of course it was never so simple as their being the parochial pastoral minstrels. Guitarist Keith Anthony offers the telling answer: “We were both born abroad, both of us; every minute, really, is just music.” It’s the musician’s blessing and curse – call it the habit of music, or the obsession. Melissa finishes simply: “it takes you to another level. It opens minds – that’s for sure.”
www.chasingpanDora.coM

PEOPLE

KRIS MICALLEF
MalTa’s fashion phoTographer of The year & worKaholic before his TiMe

Kris Micallef is strikingly, enviably young. It is not his youth in and of itself which is so enviable (though youth forever will be); when combined with his drive and work ethic, however, seemingly that of a man at the height of his profession, it’s borderline distressing. The 2009 winner of Malta Fashion Awards’ Photographer of the Year is not even, technically speaking, a full-time professional photographer – he’s an architecture student at the University of Malta.

To illustrate: when we ask him what his ideal week in Malta entails, “Oh, lots of work! University in the day and shooting in the evening. I’ll party on Friday or Saturday, and then on Sunday I catch up on work.” It’s a sleep-when-I’m-dead attitude when most of his peers just sleep like they’re dead. Kris is very obviously a fashion photographer and part of the fashion crowd. “From my own end, the overall fashion theme here is quite boring,” he

complains. “But the fashionista crowd is quite distinct, you can tell a fashionista from the crowd at any time, walking in Valletta down Republic Street you would tell them just like that!” His imagery plays up to the fashionista scene, with a great eye for colour and light; but what’s exceptional is his sense of drama and narrative: every image takes a scene in media res, action caught in the midst of happening. “I like to create a story when I do a

fashion shoot. I create a story from beginning to end, with clothes and models’ expressions,” he offers; above this text a vision of masculinity, shot in serious-actorheadshot b/w, stares moodily out at us from beneath Mickey Mouse ears, illustrating the point. “In ten years I’d like to be a big fashion photographer, maybe in London,” says Kris. Doubtless he will be; and he’s got time to finish his degree first, too.

www.KrisMicallef.coM

KRIS MICALLEF

PEOPLE

KURT ARRIGO
Malta is My playground

We all dream of jacking in the office job and spending our days in the fresh air doing something that we love. Kurt Arrigo, one of Malta’s premier photographers, has made that dream a reality. As a teenage sailor, Arrigo competed in yacht races around Malta, borrowing his brother’s camera to capture the exhileration of the sport, and then things snowballed from there; he’s now ended up becoming an official photographer for the very event that started it all off. Despite photographing the islands for the best part of 25 years, Arrigo still hasn’t tired of them - and who could really? His latest project is the result of 5 years of research and intensive shooting in Valletta’s Grand Harbour; he’s

been working on a glossy coffee table book documenting the changes to the Harbour as it undergoes a period of intense regeneration. “Before it changes, I want to capture it forever,” he explains, “there are certain things that won’t be recognisable when the book is published.” Arrigo’s career isn’t limited to gorge scenes of Valletta though; his underwater photography is sublimely serene and beautifully captured, and he also takes sport, lifestyle, portrait and sometimes a bit of fashion photography too. He’s even worked on film sets, taking unit stills and promotional shots for Troy, which was shot on the island a few years ago, and famously starred Brad Pitt in a leather skirt. “In today’s day and

age, you have to be flexible as a photographer” As a chief figure in Malta’s cultural panorama, Arrigo has watched a scene of young talent develop before his lens. “Photography’s leap into the digital world has made it much more accessible, and it’s very healthy to have young photographers taking advantage of this, and it’s important for them to appreciate the value of their own work.” Budding photographers should seek out some of his favourite spots across the islands, especially Gozo’s Gnejna Bay (try saying that with your mouth full) and the more isolated Maltese west coast, but it’s Valletta’s Grand Harbour that inspires him most. “I’m still overwhelmed by the architecture,

to be honest,” he says, going on to explain that shooting outdoors is the only way to photograph in somewhere like Malta, “the brilliant sunlight exists all year round, it’s inspiring to be on an island with such a great lifestyle.” Arrigo, however, is a stoic. After honing his craft for over a quarter of a century, he’s now in a position to take his time over jobs that he’s selected for himself. A lot of his work now takes him overseas, but as with all Maltese, he comes alive when he’s in his homeland. And a good thing too, for Arrigo’s photography is that rare thing: beautiful without being clichéd.

WWW.Kurtarrigo.CoM

KURT ARRIGO

PEOPLE

IRA LOSCO
The infiniTely charMing eurovision enTranT TurneD alT.pop sTar

Charisma is a strange thing. You may not know of Ira Losco, or have heard her music, but when she walks into the room she carries it like a star. Because she is – countless number ones and awards in Malta prove it. She is, however, incredibly personable. As we said – charisma. In 2002 Ira came second in Eurovision, which then at least still had some semblance of respect in the Maltese isles. It was a typical pop-pop-POP number, the performance of which

involved catwalks and blowing glitter and such silliness, and is very far removed from the Gwen Stefani power-pop with which she has made her name. That change in itself was a struggle, apparently: “’Ira is not the Ira you saw there,’ I had to tell people. ‘Ira is the girl who fronted the Portishead covers band,’” she laughs. Ira’s evidently very keen to play up the Every-Alt persona: “At school, I didn’t look good, but music was my passport. It’s always been there for me, this was never about fame.”

She is, inevitably, a workaholic, with [deep breath] three studio albums, two remix albums, an unplugged album, a DVD and a 400 (count ‘em!) page book in the last six years. She is involved, “beginning to end, every photo shoot, song, song writing. I’m the boss, I have to be. There are so many people with great voices, look great, are great for the job, but then there’s no imprint of them on their music. I need to keep my creative juices flowing every day.” We can’t resist asking

a little more about the Eurovision tackfest. What’s it really like? “What’s hilarious when you get there is that everyone thinks they’re really famous, acting all diva. And you’re like, ‘hello you’re famous in your country, but I’ve never heard of you.’” You may not have heard of her, but it doesn’t matter—you’d know it when you met her. It’s charisma, that strange, wonderful thing, which you’ve either got, or you ain’t. She’s got it.

www.iralosco.coM

LAZY DAZE
phoTographer MARK CANT sTylisT ALEXIS KNOX fashion co-orDinaTor MARISA GRIMA MaKe up SHASHA hair ANGELA MALLIA DE LEONARDO
anD leonarDs hairDressers’ arTisTic TeaM

MoDel LAURA ELOMAA fashion assisTanT TAMARA WEBB

blacK Dress ROBERTO CAVALLI scarf STYLIST’S OWN shoes DUNE

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ALT RESOURCES
ESSENtIALS
banKs & Money:
Malta has used the Euro since January 2008. ATMS and Exchange Bureaux are all over the islands. Most banks are open from 8.30am until 1.30pm Monday-Thursday, until 3.30pm on Fridays and until noon on Saturdays. The emergency services number is 112. The Police General HQ in Floriana is (2122 4001). Chemists are found across the island for minor health issues, and open the same hours as shops. The main public hospital on Malta is Mater Dei Hospital Birkirkara (2545 0000). Further medical information and lists of doctors and dentists is available in the Yellow Pages. Maltese shops are open between 9am and 7pm (sometimes as late as 10pm in touristy areas), with a siesta between 1pm and 4pm. Shops are normally closed all day on Sundays, however Sunday morning markets are common across Malta, and Valletta’s market is open every day. Marsaxlokk on a Sunday is our pick of the markets. Malta has a wealth of online resources, from Government institutions to the tiny culture blogs. Below are some of our more recommended sites, as well as a set of key Twitter users to start you off.

eMergencies: healTh :

shopping:

Telephones & inTerneT:

general inforMaTion
Malta Inside Out WWW.MALTAINSIDEOUT.COM Visit Paceville WWW.VISITPACEVILLE.COM Visit Malta WWW.VISITMALTA.COM Gozo WWW.ISLANDOFGOZO.ORG Valletta Waterfront WWW.VALLETTAWATERFRONT.COM Malta Weather WWW.MALTAWEATHER.COM Restaurants WWW.RESTAURANTSMALTA.COM OK Malta WWW.OKMALTA.COM

TwiTTer
MaltaLive will be tweeting across the summer with updates, news and the latest tips @MALTALIVE

people/places
Kris Micallef @KRISMICALLEF @IRALOSCO @ALEXANDRAPACE @MALTACULTURE @STJAMESCAVALIER Ira Losco Alexandra Pace Malta Culture St. James Cavalier

evenTs/insTiTuTions
Malta Arts Festival Malta Jazz Festival St. James Cavalier Malta Events Malta Culture Gozo Culture WWW.MALTAARTSFESTIVAL.COM WWW.MALTAJAZZFESTIVAL.ORG WWW.SJCAV.ORG WWW.VISITMALTA.COM/EVENTS WWW.MALTACULTURE.COM WWW.GOZOCULTURE.COM

Music/evenTs
Kinemastik Malta Inside Out Malta Radio Charts Visit Malta Fresh Events NNG Promotions @KINEMASTIK @MALTAINSIDEOUT @MALTACHARTS @VISITMALTA @FRESHEVENTSMT @NNGPROMOTIONS

proMoTers/arTisTs
G7 Events Fresh Events NNG Promotions Knockout Events Malta Ticket WWW.G7EVENTS.COM WWW.FRESHEVENTS.INFO WWW.NNGPROMOTIONS.COM WWW.KNOCKOUTEVENTS.INFO WWW.MALTATICKET.COM

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