Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
August - September 2013
Explore the city
Rent a bike!
Moscow goes Dutch
Theatre, cinema and music
Back in production
August - September 2013 N o28 moscow.inyourpocket.com
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Bars, pubs and clubs – how to stay out till 6 am
A word from our editor 4 5 6 8
The Kremlin & Red Square Russia’s fascinating history 36 39 45 46 47
What to buy and where
What’s new in the city
Banks, accountants and lawyers
Basics and Language
Some useful information
Expat and Lifestyle
Culture and Events
Moscow goes Dutch and more
Transport, tickets and more Maps 49 52 56 57 60 62 63 64 66
Rent a bike Sokolniki Park Raketa Watches 17 18 20 21 24
St. Petersburg Veliky Novgorod Samara Yaroslavl Sochi Nizhny Novgorod
A fine selection of places to spend the night
Russian Cuisine and Summer Terraces
August - September 2013
Moscow is always a city of superlatives, but this August it’s welcoming the fastest, highest and furthest to take part in the IAAF World Athletics Championship. For eight days the Luzhniki Arena will be the center of the sporting world – and we introduce some of the biggest stars on page 18. And if that inspires you to get more active yourself, there’s a host of options – from the inaugural Moscow Marathon (p. 14) to a more leisurely ride on the new rental bikes which have popped up around town this year (p. 17). It’s just part of the feast of sport heading to Russia in the coming months, with the Winter Olympics arriving in Sochi in February 2014. You can read more about the Olympic city in our special feature on page 66, or get the latest on the start of the ice hockey season on our sports page. Great sport requires great timing, which leads neatly to the unique Raketa watch factory – a Soviet-era legend which is still the only company outside of Switzerland which makes every part of its own watches for itself: from intricate workings to distinctive decoration, everything is done on site. Find out more on p. 20. September is also traditionally a time for new arrivals in the city – the month starts with the Day of Knowledge, which Russia’s youngsters go back to school, and every academic year brings a new influx of international students and teachers. So, what better time to get to know one of the city’s longestrunning expat organizations, the International Women’s Club, which celebrates its 35th anniversary this year? It’s still providing valuable support, both for foreigners getting to grips with a new environment and also for a wide range of local charities. The arrival of the autumn months also sees the city’s cultural scene start to gear up ahead of the long winter. It’s the last frantic flurry of Park Life around town, with the huge Sokolniki park, a former center of royal falconry in Tsarist times, emerging from a refit to challenge Gorky Park as the city’s top spot for outdoor entertainment. Read more on page 18-19. At the same time, once the leaves start to change color, that’s the cue for Moscow’s theaters, concert halls and galleries to take center stage once again. As usual, our listings (p. 8-15) will keep you up to date with all the most interesting events around town. Andy Potts, Russia In Your Pocket Editorial department
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Moscow In Your Pocket founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. Moscow office Russia, 101000, Moscow Krivokolenny Pereulok 12/2 tel: +7 (499) 962 80 50 [email protected]
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Editorial contributors Andy Potts, Nicola Dockray, Peter Campbell, Vicky Warrell
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Happy Birthday, Moscow!
The first weekend in September is traditionally given over to celebrations of Moscow’s birthday. While nobody really knows exactly when Igor Dolgoruky spotted this defensible spot next to the Moskva River and decided to set up a fortress here, the city was first mentioned in the Russian Chronicles of 1147, and the festivities have traditionally been held at the start of Autumn. Traditionally it has been something of a final fling for summery fun in the city’s parks and boulevards, with a host of concerts, shows and competitions going ahead all over town. With more pedestrianized areas downtown, this year’s party could be better than ever – and it represents the culmination of the summer-long ‘Luchshy Gorod Zemly’ (Best city on Earth) festival, which is holding a gastronomic odyssey over the weekend. Keep an eye on local listings for details of exactly what’s going on in your area on the big day.
20 years later
This September marks the 20th anniversary of one of the darkest episodes in Russia’s modern history – the 1993 constitutional crisis. What might sound like a technical dispute between politicians ended up with tanks shelling the White House – the home of Russia’s parliament at the time – and the highest death toll from street fighting since the 1917 revolution, with at least 187 people killed. An on-going conflict between President Boris Yeltsin and his parliament reached crisis point when Yeltsin dissolved the legislature on September 21, exceeding his constitutional powers and prompting moves to impeach him. Tensions rose and by September 28 fighting had broken out between riot police and anti-Yeltsin demonstrators. On October 3, the battle spread to the TV HQ at Ostankino, and order was only restored the following day when Yeltsin turned his tanks on the parliament building where just two years earlier he had stood in the face of the Soviet military during the abortive 1991 coup against Gorbachev. Various memorials can still be found near the White House and Krasnaya Presnya park, proclaiming those who died opposing Yeltsin to be ‘true Russian patriots’.
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It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Batumi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‘IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket).
The start of September brings regiments of immaculately dressed youngsters clutching bunches of flowers – it can only mean the start of the school year. September 1 is Russia’s ‘Day of Knowledge’, as the old school bell rings once more to welcome the new intake of 7-year-olds to the magical – and occasionally alarming – world of formal education. This year the big day falls on a Sunday, meaning many schools will open up for a special welcome session before classes start in earnest on Monday; others will opt to combine the festivities with the first regular day of term. Either way, it’s a day for perfect school uniforms and presents for the teacher while tearful parents proudly wave their kids off on one of the first great milestones of life. Traditional schoolyard hostilities and arguments over homework are generally postponed until at least the end of the first week.
Less traffic on the streets
Central Moscow’s on-going facelift sees more streets going pedestrian only. On August 1, Nikolskaya ul. will be closed to traffic for its entire 615 meters. The route, which links Red Square and Lubyanka has previously been subject to traffic restrictions around GUM, but will now be landscaped anew and given over to pedestrians – which is good news for theater-goers at the Pokrovsky Chamber Music Theater and revelers heading to the bars on Bol. Cherkassky Per. By the end of the month, Bol. Dmitrovka will also get similar treatment, with traffic reduced to a single lane and greater space given over to footpaths. This development will link in with the current pedestrianized zones on Kamergersky and Stoleshnikov pereulky and ul. Kuznetsky Most to create an extended car-free area in the heart of the city. The authorities also intend to promote the area as a Muscovite Theaterland.
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. The publisher does not bear responsibility for the accuracy of advertising information. Mосква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель: ООО «Красная Шапка» Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор: Бонни ван дер Велде Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ-Печать”, 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, Всеволожский пр., 114. Заказ No 59-10 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. ФС77-32970 от 29.08.08 выдано Федеральной службой по надзору в сфере связи и массовых коммуникаций РФ. Цена свободная. Тираж 60 000 экз. No28. 01.08.2013 Для детей старше 16 лет.
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The sound of Moscow
Russia’s music scene doesn’t start and end at the Bolshoi Theatre, as the new Moscow Music website is keen to prove. Focusing on local acts, and favoring up-and-coming bands over the tired entertainment served up by national television, it’s a detailed English-language guide to the most interesting concerts around town each week. So for news of the biggest international artists in town, check Moscow in Your Pocket, and to explore the Russian music scene, keep an eye on Moscow Music. See more www.moscowmusic. wordpress.com.
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2013. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.
© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket Published 6 times per year with supplements, No28, 01.08.2013, 60.000 copies
© Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl For children aged 16 years and over.
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
Basics and language
Aeroexpress Airport Trains
The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.aeroexpress.ru. Standard tickets cost 320Rbl for adults and 110Rbl for children between five and seven years of age. Children under the age of five travel for free. Business class tickets cost 900Rbl. Passengers can also buy tickets at the ‘Aeroexpress + Metro’ special fare, the cost of which is 360Rbl and includes a ticket for the metro. The first train departs at 05:00, with the last one departing at 00:30. Please note that depending on the time of day, trains run at thirty minute or one hour intervals. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).
Basics and language
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendelev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia. Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops between 23:00 and 08:00.
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.
Liden and Denz Language Centre A-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg.1, entr. 6, office 181, M Belorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 254 49 91, w w w.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz Language Centre Moscow is thankfully located in the centre, not far from Belorusskaya metro. In terms of facilities and ethos, this is a modern language school with up-to-date classrooms, and all the accoutrements that can assist students. DVD gear is in all classrooms and there’s also wireless and flat screen internet workstations. Students can study in groups, of which the minimum length is one week with a maximum of ten students or learners in one class. Groups have the advantage of great social activities outside of lessons, although individual classes are also available. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Ruslingua Language Center C-5, 1-y Spasonalivkovsky per. 3/5, office 403 (4th floor), MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 748 31 85, www.ruslingua.com. This excellent language school has individual and group courses for expats, visitors and revision courses for university students and can organise home stays. There’s a specially dedicated conversation class and they also offer trips with a teacher to the local market to practice your language in real life situations. They also offer a special one day course on how to talk to taxi drivers and chauffeurs which is especially useful if you will be being driven around a lot in Moscow. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel, which is slowly dying out although at some theatres and museums, foreigners are still required to pay twice to 6 times more than Russians. If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you are theoretically entitled to the local price.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 adin dva tri chetyre pyat shest sem vosem devyat desyat adinatsat 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 dvinatsat trinatsat chetyrnatsat pyatnatsat shesnatsat semnatsat vosemnatsat devyatnatsat dvatsat tritsat sorok 50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000 2000 pyatdesyat shesdesyat semdesyat vosemdesyat devyanosta sto pyatsot tysicha dve tysyachi
Internet Access and Mobile Phones Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night. Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02. Internet access. Most cafes, restaurants and bars in Moscow have free wifi access or offer wifi for a small sum. In most places you will need to ask for a password (parol ) to logon. Mobile phones. You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card.
Pocket dictionary: Pervoklassnik
Everyone remembers their first day at school, and for Russian Pervoklassniki (first-graders) it’s always a big event. All across the city, anxious seven-year-olds are marched to the shkola (school), typically clutching tsvety (flowers) or similar podarky (presents) for the uchitel (teacher). Once in class, it’s time to meet your odnoklassniki (schoolmates, and also the name of one of Russia’s most popular online social networks), and being a school career hopefully filled with znaniya (knowledge), druzhba (friendship) and uspekh (success).
Moscow is usually baking in August and many locals head away to their country homes to escape the heat of the city, so make sure you stay hydrated and give yourself some time under the shade of a tree in the park. September is usually a lovely warm and sunny month and often ends in an Indian summer. Don’t forget your sunglasses!
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia. If you are staying in a hotel the hotel will usually register you within 24hours of your arrival and as the service is complicated a small fee may apply. Many tourist agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving Russia, ranging from paying a fine, to missing your flight.
Basic phrases No/Yes Net/da Hello Zdrastvuite Goodbye Dasvidaniya Thank you Spasibo Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Please Pazhalusta I don't understand Ya ne panimayu I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Russian pa-russky Do you speak Vy gavaritye paEnglish? anglisky? Help! Pomogitye! Go away! Ostavte menya! Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю порусски Вы говорите поанглийски? Помогите! Оставьте меня!
Crossing the road
Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to learn the word переход! It means perekhod in Russian or underpass in English. When you see this sign above a tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under the street. Miss one and you can end up walking for another 200 or 300 metres. The busiest interchanges have around five different exits, entrances to metro stations and a ton of shops.
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
culture & events
While St. Petersburg may claim to be the capital of Russian culture, Moscow can arguably be considered as its birthplace. Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. -they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events. Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11, www.mmdm.ru. Izvestiya Hall (IH) B-2, Pushkinskaya pl. 5, MPushkinskaya, tel: (+7) 495 364 05 05, www.izvestia-hall.ru Live Music Hall (LMH) Ul. Dubosekovskaya 4a/1, MVoikovskaya, tel: (+7) 495 785 17 60, www.cdk.ru Moscow Hall (MH) B-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel: (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.moscowhall. com SK Olimpiysky (SKO) C-1, Olimpiysky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Stadium-Live (SL) Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. State Kremlin Palace (SKP) C-3, The Kremlin, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, M. Biblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, www.kremlinpalace.org
Culture & events
International House of Music - Chamber Hall (IHMC), Theatre Hall (IHMT), Svetlanov Hall (IHMS) E-5,
Russian National Show
16 Tons (16T) A-2, Ul. Presnensky Val 6, MUlitsa Arena Moscow (AM) Leninsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. Crocus City Hall (CCH) MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. DOM Cultural Centre (DCC) D-4, Bol. Ovchinnikovsky per. 24, bldg. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 72 36, dom.com.ru. 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 499 253 15 50, www.16tons.ru. mo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.arenagroup.ru.
B2 Club (B2) B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8/1, MMaya-
16 Tons, ul. Presnensky val 6, bldg. 1, MUlitsa 1905, tel. (+7) 499 253 15 50, www.bdva.ru. It’s hard to keep up with Bi-2, one of Russia’s most popular rock bands, and this year has seen the boys in typically busy form. Rather than pushing their main music, the ‘Neshyotny Voin’ project has taken center stage, with the release of a fourth album under that title. This music brings together a host of other leading - and emerging - local stars to record songs loosely inspired by the Stars Wars cult: not so much the tales of Jedi derring-do as the sense of nostalgia which has grown up around the movies and the whole early-80s phenomenon. But this grand summer concert is also sure to include the band’s biggest hits, getting a rare outing on an intimate club stage rather than a large-scale arena show. Q Tickets 2,500Rbl.
18.06 Tuesday - 13.09 Friday
Russian National Dance Show Kostroma
20:30 The Smashing Pumpkins
Russian Classic Moscow Philharmonic
The Moscow Philharmonic is world-renowned, and carefully preserves performance traditions. Its aim is to provide the modern listener with a diverse repertoire of folklore and innovation. Over the last ten years, it has increased the number of concerts, with now more than three thousand a year across the globe. The Philharmonic’s creative subscription policy attracts children to concerts, providing them with an opportunity to hear the world’s best contemporary artists. The number of subscriptions is growing, with more than 200 issued for the coming season. Each year more attention is paid to children’s projects, with famous Russian artists participating in the popular ‘Tales and Orchestra’.
Stadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.smashingpumpkins.com. They’re back! 15 years after Billy Corgan’s notorious rockers played their only Moscow gig at Gorbunov back in 1998 the reunited - if not exactly reformed - band is back on the road and rolling back into Russia. Their signature sound reads like a compendium of 90s alternative culture, from goth to dreampop, shoegaze to psychedelia, and it saw the band shift 19 million records before descending into a spiral of drug-fuelled collapse. But since 2005’s reunion they’ve produced three more albums and arrive in Moscow on the back of a European tour. Q Tickets 1,900 - 12,000Rbl.
22:00 Armin van Buuren
Moscow Philharmonic Chamber Hall (PCH) B-1,
Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. Moscow Philharmonic Small Hall (PSH) B-3, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. B-1, Triumfalnaya Pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 53 53, www.meloman.ru.
Moscow Philharmonic Grand Hall (PGH) B-3,
Ul. Tverskaya 29, bldg. 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
Stadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.arminvanbuuren.com. Arguably the world’s leading super-DJ, Armin Van Buuren is only giving one Russian show this year - so dance music fans should make sure they are in Moscow to hear it. He’s performing at the Radio Record Birthday Party, making his first appearance in the Russian capital and thrilling a generation of dance lovers who have long waited for their idol to arrive. Now he’s here, bringing the skills which saw him named the world’s top DJ on a record-breaking five separate occasions and set up the definitive electronic music label, Armada Music. Q Tickets 2,500 - 9,000Rbl.
Cosmos Hotel Concert Hall, pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 10 00, www.nationalrussianshow. ru. This summer sees an all-new show from this worldrenowned troupe, and once again it’s set to be a beautiful evocation of ancient Russian culture. Founded in 2001 on the banks of the Volga, “Kostroma” has lived and breathed the traditions of this land - and picked up rave reviews from critics at home and abroad in the process. The 2013 edition is bigger and brighter than ever, with 50 performers tackling 15 scenes, and donning more than 600 costumes as they flit between 10 tons of stage sets. It’s a lavish event, and one which unites centuries of musical and dramatic traditions as it recounts some of the legendary tales of Russia and takes audiences on a whistle-stop tour from the Arctic north to the southern Steppes, the peaks of the Caucasus and the depths of Siberia. Historically, the scope is no less ambitious, charting Russia’s transformations from the arrival of the Orthodox Church, through the Tsarist era and into Soviet times. Q Tickets 600 - 1,600Rbl.
Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall (PTH)
M Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 250 73 17, www. bolshoi.ru. Helikon Opera (HO) B-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, bldg. 2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www. helikon.ru. Maly Theatre (MT) C-2, Teatralny proezd 1, M Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 48 59, www. maly.ru. Stanislavsky Music Theatre (SMT) C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, www.stanislavskymusic.ru.
Bolshoi Theatre (BT) C-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1,
19:00 Front Line Assembly
B-1, Moscow Hall, Triumfalnaya pl. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.mindphaser.com. When this bunch of Canadians got together almost 30 years ago, they began to rewrite the musical rulebook and created a whole new electro-industrial sound. Drawing on influences from the likes of Cabaret Voltaire and Severed Heads, the band developed the ideas of former Skinny Puppy man Bill Leeb. In the process they created an ear-bleeding mix of heavy industrial, underpinned by hard dancefloor rhythms. And over the course of three decades they’ve remained true to their signature sound - a blast of musical shock therapy which has stood the test of time. Q Tickets 1,200 - 3,000Rbl.
Arena Moscow, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.jasonmraz.com. It’s a long way from coffee shops in San Diego to becoming the first bigname act to perform in Myanmar in front of 70,000 fans, but that’s the journey Jason Mraz has completed. Following that, playing Moscow should be a doddle for a singer-songwriter whose distinctive blend of genres reads like a soundtrack to US pop culture: rock nestles alongside country, hip-hop blends with jazz, and an acoustic guitar gives a suitably folksy feel to the whole thing. His breakthrough came in 2004 when debut album ‘Waiting for my Rocket’ achieved lift-off, going platinum and launching him among the stars. Q Tickets 1,800 - 5,000Rbl.
20:00 Jason Mraz
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
culture & events
Culture & events
B-1, Moscow Hall, Triumfalnaya pl. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.godflesh.com. The English Midlands has thrown up more than its fair share of great rock acts, from the worldfamous likes of Black Sabbath and Judas Priest to the lesser-known, but hugely influential sound of groups like Godflesh. These industrial pioneers are back on the road again after a hiatus for the first decade of the new millennium, bringing their raw, big-boned sound back to stages across Europe. Although an album of new material was planned for release in 2013, recent shows have had a retro feel: a recent festival date in Tilburg saw the band play the whole of their second album, Pure, while their ground-breaking 1989 debut, Streetcleaner, has also been reinvented in the past few years. Q Tickets 1,800 - 3,500Rbl.
20:00 Fear Factory
B-1, Moscow Hall, Triumfalnaya pl. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.fearfactory.com. Even in the height of summer, the dark side still lurks - and fans of doom-laden, anger-fuelled hard rock can look forward to their fix of sunlit angst when Fear Factory presents its brand new album, Mechanize, at the end of August. The band has been in business since 1989, but has spent much of that time scrupulously avoiding the spotlight. Rather than playing the image game, the American group prefers to let its music do the talking, usually in an aggressive, uncompromising tone of voice which has little time for hypocrisy or compromise. It’s a long way from easy listening, but it can make for a visceral concert experience. Q Tickets 1,500 - 5,000Rbl.
19:30 Napalm Death
Art Salon on Starosadsky
B-1, Moscow Hall, Triumfalnaya pl. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.napalmdeath.org. Napalm Death, proud holders of the record for the world’s shortest song (You Suffer lasts just 1.316 seconds), first came to Moscow in the heady days of post-Soviet euphoria back in 1992. At that time the British death metal act was able to ride on the wave of excitement generated by an explosion of music previously half-suppressed by the old regime. Now older and wiser, the band returns with an update on its harsh, brutal, menacing music, ready to shock and awe a new generation of metalheads. And in a post-Occupy world, the band’s strong social conscience is as relevant as it was when the Berlin Wall was coming down. Q Tickets 1,200Rbl.
19:00 Timeless Music
The Central Museum of Musical Culture B-1,ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. This year marks the 140th anniversaries of two legends of Russian music – composer Sergei Rakhmaninov and singer Fyodor Shalyapin. The museum is marking the occasion with a special exhibition, and on Thursday evenings presents a 30-minute guided tour followed by a short concert program to illustrate the masters’ work in greater detail. In August the focus is on Rakhmaninov, with performances of his Vocalise and Eastern Dances for ‘cello and piano, performed by Kirill Varyash and Julia Kulikova. Q Tickets 350Rbl.
19:00 Emilie Autumn
21:00 New Found Glory
Arena Moscow, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.newfoundglory.com. As the founding fathers of pop-punk, New Found Glory take their place alongside Blink 182 in the annals of late 90s rock. Since 1997 the Florida five-piece has built up a devoted following which revels in its short, powerful songs. The band comes to Moscow to promote last year’s album “Radiosurgery” and an upcoming live release slated for December 1. Meanwhile, with a new studio album promised for next year, there might be a sneak preview of some fresh material on the current tour. Q Tickets 900 - 5,000Rbl.
B-1, Moscow Hall, Triumfalnaya pl. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.emilieautumn.com. Russia’s love affair with American singer-songwriter / poetesses continues with the visit of Emilie Autumn. Her so-called ‘Victorian Industrial’ style, with its experimental blend of symphonic music, hard rock and industrial sounds, puts her firmly at the quirky end of the spectrum occupied by other popular recent visitors such as Tori Amos or Regina Spektor. Throw in a predilection for feathers and corsetry, and you have the makings of an arresting - if eccentric - stage show. The current tour, in support of recent album ‘Fight Like a Girl’, throws together a potent mix of Broadway, opera, English Literature and a smattering of Vaudeville in a one-of-a kind show that promises to be unmissable. Q Tickets 1,200 - 5,000Rbl.
D-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.gemsart.ru. This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take away a unique little piece of Russia, rather another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in February in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, pottery, traditional scarves and of course Russian dolls.Q Open Mon - Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
19:30 Selena Gomez
19:00 Daniil Kramer
The Central Museum of Musical Culture B-1,ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Virtuoso jazz pianist Daniel Kramer has to be heard to be believed. His refined skills cover a vast range of music-making, stretching across a raft of styles, emotions and genres. The maestro, who performs here with his own ensemble, is an adept in all that jazz, from the classical sounds of swing, bee-bop, mainstream or soul to the more contemporary edge of hard bop, fusion and free jazz. September’s performance is the first in a three-date cycle at the museum, with two further shows scheduled for next year. Q Tickets 850Rbl.
SK Olimpiysky pr. 16, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.selenagomez.com. A child star who appeared alongside Barney the Purple Dinosaur, and a pop singer who achieved fame as Justin Bieber’s girlfriend, Selena Gomez has packed a lot into her 20 years. For her many fans she’s the epitome of what a pop star should be - pretty, glamorous, yet still with enough ‘girl next door’ about her to seem real. For her equally large number of detractors she, along with Bieber and fellow Disney film-music crossover act the Jonas Brothers, represent everything that is wrong with the commercialization of modern music. Whichever side you favor, there’s no denying Gomez’s first Moscow show will be a huge event. Q Tickets 1,500 - 15,000Rbl.
20:00 Jethro Tull
Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.jethrotull.com. While some have regarded their flute-flavored folk-rock as something of a joke, Iain Anderson’s long-serving band is still thriving on the prog scene - and enjoying the last laugh over their detractors. This year’s tour marks the 40th anniversary of the ‘Thick as a Brick’ concept album, which told the story of a 10-year-old boy, Gerald Bostock. Now Bostock would be celebrating his 50th birthday, prompting the band to revisit its earlier work and update Bostock’s story for the present day. Both the original and the follow-up feature in the latest live show, along with other popular hits. Q Tickets 1,800 - 9,000Rbl.
20:00 World Of Drum&Bass. Pendulum
Arena Moscow, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.radiorecord.ru. After bursting onto the scene in 2003 with their massive hit Vault, Pendulum have confirmed their status as one of the biggest stars of the drum’n’bass scene. The Aussies have become one of the true supergroups of the genre, reinventing the sound of the dancefloor and pairing up with rave legends The Prodigy to produce “Voodoo People”. A rare Russian show gives Moscow music lovers the chance to tear up the dancefloor with their heroes. Q Tickets 2,500 - 7,500Rbl.
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
culture & events
Battle of Borodino
Borodino, Moscow region, www.borodino.ru. Every year hundreds of historical reenactment fans gather on the fields of Borodino to the west of Moscow to recreate one of the most epic battles in modern history. During the reenactment (which will officially start at 14:00), the troops of both armies come out in full military regalia, horses charge across the landscape and muskets and canons are fired to give as realistic (and safe) an impression of the chaos of the day as possible. You can also expect to find many history fanatics in the audience dressed as Napoleon or as soldiers or in the case of the women dolled up in spectacular period dresses and hats, whilst other non-military figures such as squires and doctors also make an appearance on the field. Q GETTING THERE: Local trains (no toilets) to Borodino leave from Belorussky railways station and take just under three hours. From the Borodino station it is a short bus ride to the battlefield or a 40minute - 1hour walk through the surrounding fields. Alternatively you can take a train to Mozhaisk and catch one of the buses headed to the battlefield which will be shuttling people from outside the train station.
Culture & events
Through 18.08 Sunday
A-3, Fyodor Shalyapin’s Memorial Estate, Novinsky bul. 25-27, M Barrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 605 62 36, w w w. shalyapin-museum.org. Shalyapin’s Memorial Estate is hosting an exhibition of Vassily Vdovin and Yuri Zlotya, entitled ‘Subjects and Characters’. Vassily Vdovin is the Artist of Russia, and is a painter, designer, and poet. He has had more than 30 exhibitions in Russia and abroad, and his works are in museums in St Petersburg, Glasgow, and Los Angeles. The exhibition contains portraits and still lifes of the artist’s friends – some who you will recognise, and some you will not. Yuri Zlotya is a sculptor, with works including ‘The Cross’, ‘Master’, and ‘Maria’. He presents the eternal mystery of life and happiness. His sculptures adorn many cities in Russia, including Khabarovsk. This exhibition brings together two masters. Q Open Tue, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 11:30 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Fri, last working day of the month.
Through 16.09 Monday
Military Reenactment - The Battle of Borodino
Objects and Characters
Russia and the Netherlands. The Interaction Space
C-3, State History Museum, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. The State Historical Museum on the Red Square shows 400 years of Dutch-Russian history (16th-19th century), based on shared heritage. Cartography plays an important role in this exhibition as well as Dutchmen, in Russian service, who have contributed to the development of Russia, Trade, science, cultural exchange, infrastructural works and political interaction come to the fore. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the month.
Through 22.09 Sunday
Novospassky Dvor Business Centre, Derbenevskaya nab. 31, M Paveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Alexey Shmarinov is a People’s Artist of Russia, and a member of the Russian Academy of Fine Arts. In honour of the artist’s 80th birthday, the Institute of Russian Realist Art will show a collection of his watercolours, which will be his 50th exhibition. This is the first in a series of exhibitions celebrating his birthday, and will also be the first time visitors will be able to see the largest private collection of his watercolours; there will be thirty works displayed, both from the collection of the Institute of Russian Realist Art and those owned by the artist himself. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Through 01.09 Sunday
Eye to Eye. Histories of Stereo Photography
B-4, Moscow Multimedia Art Museum, ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www. mamm-mdf.ru. The technique of stereo photography producing two images which correspond to the view from each eye in order to create a 3D effect - is almost as old as photography itself, and the theory behind it dates back to the days of Euclid. But in recent years new advances have transformed this from a cumbersome collection of speciallydesigned viewing booths, only available to one guest at a time, into a convenient modern mass display with 3D glasses making it possible to for large groups of people to view the images together. The exhibition chronicles stereo photography’s journey from populist gimmick to serious art form, and presents works by leading contemporary artists such as Vladimir Kupriyanov, Yury Avvakumov, Vladimir Logutov and Anatoly Zhuravlev. Q Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Cirque du Soleil, Kooza
From 07.09 Saturday
11.09 Wednesday - 22.09 Sunday
Moscow Photo Show
Cirque du Soleil, Kooza
20:00 Serj Tankian
Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.serjtankian.com. Serj Tankian, frontman of System of a Down, is a regular visitor to Moscow, and his shows always offer something new. A fearless experimenter, he has appeared here in stripped-down rock guise, and also with the backing of a full symphony orchestra. This time he’s promoting his solo material, some of which dates back to the release of 2007’s “Elect the Dead”. That was Tankian’s first solo project outside of System of a Down and has spawned several successful follow-ups, including a symphony entitled “Orca” released earlier this year and another rock album, “Jazz-iz-Christ” which was scheduled to appear in July 2013. Q Tickets 1,200 - 7,000Rbl.
Through 15.09 Sunday
B-1, The Central Museum of Musical Culture, ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. On the occasion of 140th anni versaries of Sergey Rachmaninov and Fyodor Shalyapin. It contains exhibits from many museum’s collections, including the Central Museum of Musical Culture, the State Academic Bolshoi Theatre Museum, and the Ivanovka Estate. The exhibition consists of two sections. The first displays the biographical and artistic heritage of the artists, which illustrates the stages of their lives through paintings, manuscripts and photographs. The second section examines their creative legacy. Rachmaninov’s compositions are performed by the greatest artists of our time, including N. Lugansky, and B. Berezovsky. Special attention is given to Rachmaninov’s music used in popular culture in the 20th and 21st Centuries. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Gallery of Classic Photography, Savvinskaya nab. 23, bldg. 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 510 7714, www. classic-gallery.ru. This year’s annual showcase of the best of Russian photography comes in two parts. Stage one, from Sep. 12-15, offers highlights from leading Russian and international galleries, foundations and collections. Part two, from Sep. 19-22, opens the floor to independent artists to showcase their best works. As usual, the big event attracted interest from all the country’s leading photographers and collections, reflecting its status as one of the leading marketplaces for Russian photographic art. However, it is also a fantastic opportunity for the public to get a taste of some unique images, both contemporary and historic. Q Open Wed - Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
F-6, OK Luzhniki, ul. Luzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 08 08, www.cirquedusoleil.com. The world-famous Cirque du Soleil is back in Moscow -and its new show, Kooza, sees the Canadian troupe go back to its roots. Pitching its big top at Luzhniki once more, the company is building this production around the core circus disciplines of clowning and acrobatics. It’s a real box of tricks: the show’s name is derived from the Sanskrit word for ‘box’, reflecting the explosive start as the key characters spring out of their box and also evoking the spirit of a kind of Pandora’s Box of moral conundrums faced by the cast on a journey which explores questions of right and wrong without losing its lightness of touch and entertaining approach. Q Tickets 1,600 - 15,000Rbl.
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
culture & events
Tryater, one of the leading Dutch theater companies, has built close links with Russia since the appointment of Ira Judkovskaja in 2008. Having delivered a hit production of ‘Master and Margarita’, the team is back this year with a new show which explores the challenges of urban life. ‘Fen der Sted en it Lebben’ (About the City and its Life) takes audiences on a whirlwind journey through the urban jungle as seen through the eyes of 70 characters played by seven actors. Relying heavily on improvisation, and taking inspiration from both literature – the likes of Daniil Kharms and Fernando Pessoa – and much-loved Soviet rom-com ‘Office Romance’, the play offers a distinctive view of city life, conveyed largely through mime, movement and music rather than dialogue. The show runs at Winzavod from September 19-21. There’s also a strong Dutch accent at this year’s Gavroche festival of theater for young audiences. Eight companies are coming to present their work to Moscow’s children at the Teatrium na Serpukhovka from September 13-22. Among the shows, there’s a reinvention of Shakespeare’s “The Tempest” for young audiences, performed by the Toneelmakerij company. Another highlight promises to come at the end of the festival, when Vrije Val takes on the life and work of Vincent van Gogh in a rare production aimed for audiences aged 8 and above.
Culture & events
Gorky Park is once again the venue as the Garage Contemporary Art Center stages “The One Minutes”, a display of video shorts each of which lasts just 60 seconds. It’s a collaboration between Moscow’s Vidiot and Amsterdam’s “The One Minutes”, and brings together the work of 24 leading Russian and Dutch artists. The show runs August 1 to December 8. There’s more video art on offer in “The Aesthetics of Failure”, a show of video clips and art installations from De Hallen in Haarlem. That gallery boasts in impression collection of leading Dutch photographers and filmmakers, and some of its key recent works will be on display at the State Center for Contemporary Art on Zoologicheskaya Ulitsa from September 13 to October 5. Across town, the Artplay complex hosts two short exhibitions in September 11-26. Space of Exception looks at how presenting familiar objects in new contexts can create challenging works of art from everyday life, while The Assembly of Dutch Art (September 11-17) provides a rundown of the key players in the Netherlands’ contemporary art scene.
08.08 Thursday - 08.09 Sunday
Moscow goes Dutch
Russia and the Netherlands have a long shared history, dating back at least as far as the arrival of a young Peter the Great in the Low Countries, where he learned the art of shipbuilding and continuing to the more recent efforts of football coaches Dick Advocaat and Guus Hiddink in the Russian Championship. Now this relationship is being celebrated throughout September – and beyond - with the start of the “Dutch Days” festival, which is out to explore artistic and cultural links between the two countries. There’s a strong flavor of the Netherlands at several venues around Moscow, with Gorky Park and the neighboring galleries at the New Tretyakov and the Central House of Artists serving as the fulcrum of events. The program takes in a wide range of activity: cinema, music, dance, theater, art and photography are all on the bill over the course of the festival.
Gallery of Classic Photography, Savvinskaya nab. 23, bldg. 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 510 7714, www.classic-gallery.ru. Another big photo show as part of the year of Dutch culture in Russia sees contemporary photographer Erik Hijweege unveil a series of large-scale images highlighting the colors and contrasts of The Netherlands today. His work poses questions about the Netherlands - a land which is stable and prosperous, but which faces doubts about its future direction in a fast-changing global environment. Hijweege’s images give a view of the country from above, deceptively simple snapshots which, portrayed on a large scale, highlight his country’s contemporary transformations. While the questions he explores are too complex to be answered by in a single image, his search for answers nonetheless challenges viewers to explore their own ideas of personal identity. Q Open Wed - Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
The Pioner cinema’s outdoor screen in Gorky Park holds a retrospective of works by famous Dutch director Paul Verhoeven from September 12-15. Verhoeven has been dubbed a ‘one-man Dutch film industry’ after achieving fame with a series of cult sci-fi movies including RoboCop, Total Recall and Starship Troppers.
Willem Barentsz, a Dutch explorer, was one of the first men to open up the Arctic north – including great swathes of Russia’s own icy wilderness. Inspired by his journeys, photo-journalists Jeroen Torkens and Peter Shauerman recreated his 3000km expedition from Bodo in Norway to Murmansk, Russia’s biggest Arctic city. A photo-show based on what they found in one of the world’s most unexplored regions runs at the Central House of Artists from September 12-15.
Running in Moscow
If watching the World Athletics Championship in Moscow has inspired you to get into action yourself, September brings two major participation events. On September 15 the inaugural Moscow Marathon picks its way through 26 arduous miles of downtown, taking in many of city’s most famous landmarks on its way to and from the Luzhniki Sports Complex. As well as an elite field, the event has been thrown open to fun-runners who have been preparing throughout the summer – but even if you’re not pounding the pavements the whole thing promises to be a great spectacle when the athletes get underway at 8am. The following week, there is also a less strenuous charity fun run around Gorky Park on September 22. Runners can choose between a 5km or 10km course, and can register on the day from 09:30 - 11:30am. The runs start at midday. See more information www.moscowmarathon.org and www.5275.ru.
That Dutch pioneering spirit of the 16th to the 19th century placed that seafaring nation at the forefront of map-making – among the skills which attracted Peter the Great in his youth. A special show at the State Historical Museum pays tribute to this expertise and its historical, political and diplomatic role in the Dutch Empire and the rise of Russia’s own Imperial strength. The exhibition runs until September 16.
13.09 Friday - 24.11 Sunday
Where to See
ArtPlay Ul. Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 620 08 82, www.artplay.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Central House of Artists C-5, Ul. Krymsky Val 10/14, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 96 34, www.cha.ru. Q Open 11:00 – 20:00. Closed Mon. Opening times depend on exhibitions. Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture B-5, Gorky Park, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 20, www.garageccc.com. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Gorky Park B-5, Ul. Kr ymsky Val 9, M Park Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 237 12 66, w w w.parkgorkogo.com. State History Museum C-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www. shm.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Teatrium on Serpukhovskaya, ul. Pavlovskaya, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 237 16 89, www. teatrium.ru. Winzavod E-3, 4-y Siromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46, www.winzavod.ru. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00. moscow.inyourpocket.com
One of the festival highlights brings together a unique collaboration between the world-famous Choir of the Don Cossacks and Dutch musician Kyteman (Colin Benders). While the choir needs no introduction, their traditional, rousing style is likely to form a fascinating counterpoint to Kyteman’s individualistic hip-hop inflected contemporary jazz. The performance on September 13 in Gorky Park looks set to be one of the signature events of the festival. The following day the park hosts a gig featuring leading Dutch bands and DJs, including Skip & Die, the Ex, De Kift and Rebel Up! Soundclash. At the same time as the musical performances, artistic duo Job Wauters and Gus Frieling will be hard at work creating large-scale artworks inspired by the festivities.
B-5, Tretyakov State Gallery, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. From the celebrated modernism of Piet Mondrian to cutting-edge video installations, there’s something for everyone in a series of art shows in honor of the festival. The Mondrian exhibition is the flagship event at the New Tretyakov Gallery, exploring how the Dutchman, along with those émigré Russians Kandinsk y and Malevich, laid the foundations for abstract art. The whole movement was suppressed by the Soviet authorities, and to this day Mondrian’s work is little known in Russia. Q Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon.
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
culture & events
Moscow, the center of the World
The fastest man on Earth is coming to Moscow, with Usain Bolt leading an all-star cast at the IAAF World Athletics Championship at Luzhniki. Jamaica’s Olympic Champion and 100m World Record Holder is probably the single biggest name at the event, and tickets for his event on August 11 (Day 2 of the competition) are among the hottest of the competition. He’ll go again in the 200m (August 16-17) and the 4x100m relay (August 18) But Bolt is far from the only star on show: charismatic double Olympic gold medalist Mo Farah has suffered with injuries in the early part of this season, but he produced some blistering final laps to win recent events in Gateshead and Birmingham back in June and looks to be getting into top form ahead of the summer’s main event. He’ll face a tough field in the 5,000m on August 16. Then there’s the phenomenal Kenya David Rudisha, who became the first man to break 1:41 for the 800m – a time he set in London with one of the stand-out performances of last year’s Olympics. So powerful was his performance on that day, blasting away from the field from the start and building an unassailable lead as early as the 200m mark, that every other runner in the 8-strong field recorded a personal best, a season’s best time or – in the case of runner-up Nigel Amos – a World Junior Record. Find out if he can repeat that performance in the final on August 13. There are also plenty of hopes for home success. Russia’s If you’re hankering for a dose of top level sport after last year’s Olympics, Moscow is the place to be. The competition runs August 10-18, tickets for each day start from 100Rbl, with a variety of package deals available throughout the week. Online ticket sales at www.iaaf.arena-market.ru/ actionList.do.
The ice hots up
September sees the start of the Kontinental Hockey League season, with Dynamo Moscow beginning its defense of the Gagarin Cup on September 4. As is traditional, the defending champ takes on last season’s runner-up, bringing Traktor Chelyabinsk to Luzhniki for the curtain-raiser. Across town, CSKA has added former Russian national team captain Alexei Morozov to the roster, hoping that he and Alexander Radulov can recreate the World Championship-winning partnership of 2008 and 2009. CSKA begins its home campaign against Dinamo Riga on September 14, while Spartak will be hoping for an improvement on last season when it opens up at home to Slovan Bratislava on September 8. For full fixture details, see www.en.khl.ru.
Rent a Bike
Moscow is one of the latest cities to set up its own bike programme, allowing both tourists and Muscovites a new way to travel around. The pay-as you go stations for these bikes are mostly on the Boulevard Ring, and the notable red bikes, courtesy of Bank of Moscow, can now be seen all over the city. Moscow in Your Pocket tried out the system and has mapped out for you a possible route from Chistye Prudy to Tsvetnoy Bulvar’, which takes you through some of Moscow’s leafiest and most loved boulevards. A nice place to start is the far end of Chistye Prudy (‘Clean Ponds’). Say hello to the African ducks with the orange beaks and admire the memorial to the Kazakh poet Abay Kunanbaev, which in recent years has been the setting for opposition meetings. Pedal past the ‘Sovremennik’ theatre on the right, set up by young actors in 1956 and one of the first theatres which enjoyed the new freedoms of the Thaw era. Weave in and out of the strollers until you reach the Chistye Prudy metro station and the statue of Russian playwright Griboedov, author of the play “Woe from Wit.” Unfortunately the ‘Stretensky Bulvar’ square is closed at the moment for repairs, so you will have to ride on the road to continue the route, or alternatively, you can start your ride at the end of the park, picking up a bike on Bol. Lubyanka street. This area has a lot of religiously-significant monuments, including the Stretensky Monastery, built to commemorate the events of 1395, when the city was said to have been saved from the advance of Tamerlane by the arrival of the Vladimir Icon of the Mother of God, which is now displayed in the Tretyakov Gallery. Crossing the road to reach Rozhdestvensky Bulvar’, you will find a new memorial to Evdokiya Dmitrievna, said to have brought the icon to Moscow. Riding downhill you reach Trubnaya Square. On the right, at the start of Tsvetnoy Bulvar’, a 32 metres high column commemorates policemen who die in the line of duty, and is topped by a statue of St George and the Dragon. The unicycling clown statues in the middle of the Tsvetnoy Bulvar’ park are a creation of Zurab Tsereteli, the famous sculptor of the Peter the Great statue by the river, and celebrate the circus on your right which has been here since the late 1980s. You can leave your bikes at the Tsvetnoy Bulvar’ metro station at the end of the park.
How Does It Work?
To rent a bike, you will first need to register online at www.velobike.ru using a credit card, which means that you will need internet access or to do this at home. The website is all in Russian, so get a Russian friend to help you. The prices vary depending on the ‘tariff plan’ you choose, which means the amount of time you decide you want to have the bike service available to you. You then pay additionally for the hours you use the bike, although any trip up to 30 minutes is free with the tariff plan. 30 minutes to an hour costs 30Rbl and an hour to an hour and a half costs 90Rbl. Once you have registered online, you will receive a text message with the number of your ‘bikecard’ (velokarta) and a PIN number. You enter these in to the terminal near the bike stand along with the number of the bike you wish to rent, and have 60 seconds in which the bike is released from the lock. And away you go! You can return the bike to any bike station, just make sure that it is properly secured in the lock and returned on time. Late returns, loss or damages can make you liable to a 3,000-15,000Rbl fine.
The road to Rio
competitors performed strongly in the European Team Championship in England back in June, and their field athletes are especially impressive. The motherland boasts the men’s and women’s Olympic gold medalists from London in Anna Chicherova and Ivan Ukhov, while long-jumper Alexander Menkov shocked London Olympic winner Greg Rutherford to take first place in Gateshead in the summer. And then there’s the legendary Yelena Isinbayeva, the queen of Russian athletics and the first great female pole vaulter. With a strong tradition in race-walking, and a competitive squad of middle-distance runners including Olympic 800m champion Mariya Savinova, Russia is more than capable of holding its own on home soil. One event which promises some serious star quality is the women’s heptathlon. Britain’s Jessica Ennis became one of the heroines of London with her gold-medal show – but the adoration of the home crowd can only inspire Russia’s Tanya Chernova to improve on her Olympic bronze from last year. This looks set to be one of the most intriguing tussles of the championships, with genuine hopes of Russian success to enthuse the crowds. The seven events are spread across days three and four of the competition.
Russia’s qualifying campaign for the 2014 World Cup continues with home games against Luxembourg (September 6) and Israel (September 10). At the time of writing Fabio Capello’s squad is in second place following a 1-0 defeat to Portugal last time out. All is not lost, though: Cristiano Ronaldo and chums have a slender 2-point advantage, and have played two games more. A pair of home wins could see Russia take control of the group and set fans dreaming of a trip to the Maracana come July. Meanwhile, Russian Premier League champion CSKA will be looking to launch its UEFA Champions League campaign when the group stages get underway in September. Spartak will play in the Europa League this season. The first group-stage games take place in the week commencing September 16; the draw is due in late August. See more www.uefa.com. By Andy Potts
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
The Rose gardens
A favourite of many generations of Muscovites, Sokolniki has both a large and a small rose garden. The larger rose garden has displays of many different flowers other than roses, with peony, lily and ‘fragrance’ gardens, as well as those organised by colour scheme.The small rose garden is open 11:00 19:00 every day except Mondays. The large rose garden is open 12:00 - 21:00 until September 5, and 12:00 - 19:00 until October 15. Adults 125Rbl, children 60Rbl. The garden is free on the last Saturday of every month for families with children.
More Vnutr y Park Sokolniki, Pesochnaya alleya, M Sokolniki, tel. (+7) 903 120 76 16. Approach the peeling block building, climb an unassuming flight of stairs, and you’ll be surprised to find the bluewhite expanse of More Vnutri - ‘The Sea Within’, like a treehouse level with the silver birches of Sokolniki Park. As the name would sug gest there’s a very faint seaside feel to it with the wooden crate loungers, incredibly spacious hall and pescetarian menu (so no meat - just fish and veggie dishes). The food is inconsistent in its value for money and not wildly adventurous, but fresh, tasty and healthy; the main draw really is the atmosphere, relaxed and casual, with hammocks strung between pillars and children zooming up and down on scooters, whilst the forest view makes it feel secluded. Their beautiful chilledout summer terrace continues the beachy atmosphere. Alcohol is not served here but you can bring your own for a 300Rbl corkage fee. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PASW
August and September is a fantastic time to start exploring some of Moscow’s city parks, many of which have undergone extensive re-development over the last few years. Sokolniki has a myriad of activities and events to attract everyone, from families to sports lovers. The name Sokolniki comes from the Russian word Sokol, meaning falcon, as the origins of the park date back to the 15th century, when the forest began to be used by the Muscovy princes for hunting with birds of prey. The park was particularly popular with the tsars from Peter the Great’s time, when it was the setting for his rowdy parties with the city’s expatriates, and from then on the park has been a favourite strolling spot among Muscovites. The city authorites bought the park from the state treasury in 1879 for 300,000Rbl, largely under the influence of one Sergey Tretyakov, brother to Pavel, the founder of the famous Tretyakov gallery.
From the metro exit Sokolniki, walk straight along the treelined alley until you reach the main entrance to Sokolniki park. Immediately in front of you is the main fountain, a convenient meeting place and starting off point for your walk around this vast park. The park is laid out in the pattern of a shining sun, if you consider the centre to be the main fountain, surrounded by the Main Ring (Bolshoy Krug) with paths leading off from it in all directions like rays. At the entrance of the park on the right is the Sports Equipment Rental Centre and Baggage Centre, (open daily 11:00 - 22:00, you can rent equipment until 21:00). You can rent ‘Stels’ bikes, suitable for adults (per hour 250Rbl weekend 130Rbl weekday). Please note that you need to pay an additional amount as a a deposit, which for this model is 1,000Rbl if you show your passport and 3,000Rbl if you forgot to bring it with you. This applies to all their equipment, so if you are renting bikes for the whole family please remember to bring your documents and cash with you to the park, as the amount can add up!
At the main fountain you will find numerous refreshment stands, including Baskin Robbins, and Tea Funny, an outlet selling bubble tea, an originally Taiwanese concept of freshly brewed tea with milk and added sirups and toppings. The Four Kitchens restaurant serves Italian, American and Pan-Asian cuisine, including wok-based dishes, at decent prices. If you fancy something classier, The Veranda restaurant on the right hand side of the Main Ring serves Russian-European food in a cool atmosphere under the trees with leather couch seating and open views onto the park and an open barbeque for cooking shashlyk-style kebabs. If you’re having a stroll around, make sure to check out the Pushkin Gallery’s small exhibition of classic French painting on the left hand side of the Main Ring. Walking straight on through the lane covered with wooden arches, you will reach the Festival Square. This is the centre of the park, and the site of many of its larger attractions, such as the Sokolniki Exhibition and Convention Centre, the Calligraphy Museum and a public library. The main stages for events that are held in the park are here, although on a week day the large space is filled with children on bikes. The Merkato Italian restaurant is set up opposite the stage on an enormous wooden stand-like structure, so you can probably watch the action from there. On the far side of the square is the Climbing Wall. A trial session on the wall costs 300Rbl for adults, and 150Rbl for children, including equipment and insurance. If you want to climb on the wall without an instructor then you need to pass a safety course. Lessons with an instructor are also available. If the climbing wall doesn’t suit you and neither does staying on the ground, the Panda Park high-ropes adventure course for children and adults, also found in Gorky and Fili Park, is located at the top of the Main Ring, near the lane that leads to Festival Square. You can try out the ‘brave’ or the ‘high’ course around the tops of the trees, or both, if you’re feeling daring. www.park.sokolniki.com, Open daily 08:00 - 23:00
The area towards the back of the park is full of activities for children, so head here first if you came with little ones. 1st Luchevoy Prosek is home to the Djanni Rodan Children’s café, which serves Italian food and is specially suited to families. Heading further down this way you will find a fairground with attractions and many children’s playgrounds as well as a skatepark for older children. There is also the Dom detsckogo tvorchestva(House of Children’s Creativity) which runs master classes for children in creative activities such as open-air painting and chess-playing. (+7) 499 268 59 51.
Filyovsky Park Ul. Bol. Filyovskaya, M Bagrationovskaya, www.park-fili.ru. Fili Park is the ideal place for a peaceful stroll in a forested haven, away from the bustle of the city. The park is perfect for summer picnics on the edge of the Moscow River, with plenty of quiet spots on the woody slopes by the river bank. Dotted with small play- areas for children alongside the shady paths, the park attracts families rather than the well-heeled promenaders of Gorky Park. The park is also great for those who prefer “active relaxation”, with a skate park, bike hire, and “Panda Park,” a high ropes course for adults and children. Park Kuzminki MKAD 12Km, MKuzminki, www.
kuzminky.ru. Park Kuzminki is closely entwined with the large Stroganov estate, and was supposedly used as a hunting ground in the 17th century. Now the estate of which it was part of includes the white Church of the Blachernae Icon of Theotokos which -like many otherswas closed in the first half of the 20th century. Locals are noticeably friendlier than in the city centre and numerous ducks and birds populate the area - there are even birdspotting boards dotted around for Russian speakers. In the winter, the four connecting lakes are used for ice fishing, and in the spring and summer, are perfect to relax beside with a loved one. Kuzminskaya Ulitsa even has a signpost towards the house of Ded Moroz (the Russian Father Christmas), and the park has recently played host to an animated cartoon factory, to celebrate 100 years of Russia’s legendary industry.
‘The Bassein’ Complex
This swimming pool complex is open every day and is situated towards the back left-hand side of the park, off the Mitkovsky Proezd. If the temptation of an open-air swimming pool in Moscow doesn’t tempt you enough, during the week entrance and a chaise-longue only costs 200-400Rbl for the entire day. The complex also has yoga and aerobic classes, which are free at weekends, a café with a veranda, and pingpong, badminton and frisbee rental. On Saturdays they have a beach-DJ party in the evening. Open daily 10:00 - 22:00.
Sokol – meaning falcon
moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2013
Moscow In Your Pocket
Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. To visit the factory (which offers free tours in English), you would have to travel to St. Petersburg. Read the story below to find out what makes Raketa so interesting. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be reorganised in 2009. There are now approximately 60 workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using the factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased modern equipment We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast unless otherwise indicated. All prices listed are according to the information received by us from hotels for the period August - September 2013. In Your Pocket assumes no responsibility for discrepancies and changes in pricing.
12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 22 22, www. cpmow.ru. The charming mechanical rooster crows across the wide atrium every hour and the palm trees bring to mind Hawaii. Here you will find stylish rooms and facilities in a classic hotel space. Standard rooms are tastefully kitted out in chocolate and biscuit striped carpet, a bold design feature that gives an air of innovation and warmth. Q724 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl. VAT and Breakfast (1,300Rbl) not included. PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC Krasnopresnenskaya nab.
Raketa Polar Watch
One of Raketa’s most interestin g wa tch es is th e ‘Pol yarnye’ (Polar) model, which was designed specifically for Soviet polar explorers. Following a Soviet State order in 1969, a Raketa 2623 H movement with its 24 hour dial, and luminous watch face in order to be easily visible in the dark, was made for those who were braving long polar nights and extremel y low temperatures. The ‘Polyarnye’ watch was originally exclusively distributed by special order, and therefore was not available to the public. By the mid 1970s, watches designed for submariners and astronauts were created on the basis of the ‘Polyarnye’ model. This model only became available to the public after the beginning of perestroika – in fact, just hours after it began the watch model began to appear in shops. This watch has been newly redesigned, and now has a sapphire glass and a genuine leather strap. It features the North and South Poles on its face, and a unique design with animals associated with the Arctic and Antarctic on the back.
from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispensible to the watch-making process are still in use. An ex-Rolex production director joined the team in 2012, planning to pass on the Swiss standard certification “Chronofiable” and “COSC” to the company. In 2013, Raketa launched its new “Automat Raketa” movement, and a new watch designed by the famous actress Natalia Vodianova. Raketa watches were produced for the Communist Party and affiliate organisations, and their watches are therefore tailored to the needs of these jobs. The ‘Seaman’ watch has a 24 hour dial, divided into three watch systems: Russian, British, and Scandinavian, and is decorated with marine cardinal buoys and International Marine signal flags. It features an integrated solar compass, and a double time system, useful when sailing around the world. The ‘Traveller’ watch, inspired by Russia’s vastness, features all of the country’s eleven time zones. Other watches include the ‘Eternal Calendar’, which allows the user to look up any date and discover which day of the week it will fall on, and the ‘Gorbachev’ watch, which features a 0 instead of a 12. Foreign journalists questioned its uniqueness, to which Gorbachev’s reply was: ‘in Russia, we start at again at 0’. As these organisations had a male majority, Raketa produce few women’s watches. Some designs include the ‘Ballerina’ watch, which features red stars on its face reminiscent of those on the Kremlin; and the ‘Winter’ watch, inspired by Russian folk tales. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. On this page we have highlighted one of Raketa’s most interesting watches, and listed where to buy them - they would make a great souvenir of your time in Russia! www.raketa.com
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow D-4, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. Without actually being the President, it would be hard to live closer to the Kremlin than this. Moscow’s first five star hotel is just across the river and has a stunning view of the Kremlin. The lobby is home to more business men than tourists. Rooms bear the mark of royalty and some suites literally have been designed by minor members of the British royal family. Suites also have the most sensational bathrooms, sure to one day grace the pages of design magazines. Q230 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl). Breakfast (1,900Rbl) and VAT are not included. PTHA6UFLGDCwW hhhhh Lotte Hotel Moscow A-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel. ru. This sparkling new hotel from the prestigious Korean Lotte hotel group offers top-class Asian standard service right in the centre of Moscow. The lobby is an opulent feast of specially commisioned blown glass chandeliers and real marble pillars, while the restaurant options are some of the hippest and most exciting in town. Upstairs you could drive a car in the gigantic ballroom whilst the spacious and luxurious bedrooms with discreet state-of-the-art extras all feature the kind of bathrooms you would expect to see in a very expensive spa. Due to the specially designed glass facade the noise of the street is completely inaudible throughout the hotel and we’ve rarely seen a better thought-out club lounge. Q300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Extra bed 2,000Rbl. VAT and Breakfast (1,800Rbl) not included. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 77, www.mamaison.com. Boutique design hotel - there is a fine line being walked here in the loud design, but in the end the purple, red and black-coloured interior makes the grade. The cigar lounge and the restaurant are stellar, created from the excitable minds of Russia’s best designers. Indeed, the abundance of French furniture turns the hotel into a gallery. The Mamaison Pokrovka has only suites and apartments (no standard rooms) and all are filled with hip design features and modern kitchenettes. The small foreign literature library suffices, should you get bored with the state-of-the-art televisions, wireless internet and luxury spa complex with hydromassage pool. In the single room, the double bed folds up into the wall. Q84 rooms (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,800Rbl. VAT and breakfast (1,200Rbl) not included. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhhh moscow.inyourpocket.com Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel C-3, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www. marriottmoscowgrand.com. Situated conveniently on Tverskaya ulitsa, the Marriott Grand boasts luxurious rooms with modern stylings, fitness and health facilities, and European restaurants. The Grand is co-managed with two other Marriott hotels in Moscow, which ensures flexible booking. The rooms themselves offer a generous amount of space and freshness. Twin rooms come with two king-size beds that you could swim in. Natural light shines abundantly in their conference rooms and trademark foyer atrium and there are quality buffet lunches in the restaurant. Q386 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Extra bed free of charge. Breakfast 1,450Rbl. PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
P T K F C D 6 Air conditioning Child friendly Restaurant Fitness centre Swimming pool Sauna Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station W Wi-Fi connection
Where to Buy
Podium Concept Stor C-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, MKuznetsky most, tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www. podiumfashion.com. QOpen 12:00 – 23:00. TSUM, 4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatralnaya, (+7) 495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. QOpen 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. Tsvetnoy Central Market, 4th Floor C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bulvar, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www. tsvetnoy.com. QOpen 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. Twins Shop D-3 Ul. Solyanka 11, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 698 53 93, www.twinsshop.ru. QOpen 12:00 – 22:00. Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com
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August - September 2013
most popular rooms are those on the higher floors, although if you aren’t lucky enough to get a killer view you can simply head up to the restaurants on the top floor to enjoy the view of Moscow’s skyscrapers from 80 metres up with a cocktail or whilst enjoying Sunday brunch. Q293 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,770Rbl. Breakfast (1,300Rbl) not included. PHAFLGKDW MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 777 80 97, www.hotelgentalion.ru/en. This small hotel’s four-star quality and central location make it the perfect choice for business guests, who will be charmed by the homelike atmosphere which is not often found in some of the larger and more impersonal hotels. Gentalion is within walking-distance of Red Square and has excellent access to transport links, being near to Belorussky Station and the AeroExpress train to Sheremetyevo and the Mayakovskaya Metro station from which you can reach the Expocentre with ease. The hotel’s 30 comfortable double rooms are furnished in a classical style with free Wifi access, air-conditioning and a mini-bar.There is also a spa area with a pool and a Finnish sauna to relax in, and lobby restaurant serving European classics such as beef tenderloin and crab julienne, with an extensive wine list. Q30 rooms (Room prices start at 7,650Rbl). PTALKDCW Novy Arbat 22, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 233 64 29, www.moscowsuites.ru. These modern, well-appointed apartments are centrally located on two main streets of Moscow (Novy Arbat and Tverskaya), and offer great value accommodation. You can choose between studios and one bedroom apartments. All apartments are freshly renovated and include high speed Wifi, flatscreen cable TV, imported linen, full kitchens and even a free airport/train pickup! The knowledgeable and helpful staff can assist you with additional services and guides are available. Q (Prices start at 6,000Rbl). PAGW
About Les Clefs d’Or Russia Ask the Concierge
Interview with Anna Endrikhovskaya - Concierge at Metropol Hotel Please tell us something about yourself. I was born in Moscow on October 14, 1988, and soon after that my family moved to Berlin and then to Athens. When I was a child, I attended drama clubs, and I wanted to be an actress. I even passed all the exams to enter the best Russian acting school, but my father said that if I became an actress –I would no longer be his daughter. This was extremely tough. I was suffering and it was a hard time for me because I had to re-choose my life path and find something else to do that would satisfy me and my ambitions. I decided to enter the hotel business and I knew from the beginning that I wanted to be a concierge. As soon as I turned 18, in 2004, I started working in the Marriott Royal Aurora hotel as a butler, as the concierge position was not available. After two years, I finally became a concierge. At that time, my chief concierge was Ekaterina Zhuravleva, who was the President of Les Clef d’Or Russia, so I had a great example of a concierge to follow. As of May 2013, I joined the concierge team of the privately owned Metropol Hotel in Moscow. What is the added value of being a member of Les Clefs d’Or and tell us about the prize you won? Les Clefs d’Or society is all about friendship and helping each other. I know that I trust my colleagues anywhere around the globe and that they trust me to make our guests happy and to enjoy themselves. Being named the best young concierge is very honourable, and of course I was extremely emotional. This year the prize itself was created by a Greek artist, and he called the statue “The Flame of the Future”. I brought this flame to Russia and hope that we will have more young, talented people coming into the profession. What would you recommend to visitors of Moscow that is off the beaten track? I always look at the people in front of me and then decide what to offer them: if it’s a young couple I would suggest that they take a look at the church near Nikitskaya square, where Pushkin got married. If the guests are young and trendy, I would suggest that they visit the Red October Island, and for guests with children, I would definitely suggest a visit to the Jewish museum. What makes Moscow a unique travel destination in the world? Moscow is very lively and diversity city. If you do not pay attention to the details, you will just see another metropolis, but it’s a city with a huge history and the influence of different cultures and nationalities. If you discover its history piece by piece, you will fall in love with it. What is your favorite spot in Moscow yourself? As a concierge I have to discover new places daily, so I cannot say that I have a favourite place… Maybe the Time Out bar, as it has outstanding view and great cocktails. It’s a great place to relax mentally and physically after a long working day.
Hotel Gentalion B-1, Ul. 1-ya Brestskaya 38, bldg. 1,
National, A Luxury Collection Hotel C-3, Ul. Mokhovaya
15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. Rub shoulders with history here: this century old building is one of the grand old dames of the Moscow hotel scene. The location doesn’t get any better and neither does the guest list! Previous guests include Lenin himself. The hotel, while honouring the past, is reassuringly modern in service standards and management. The rooms house not only comfortable beds and renovated bathrooms, but also original furniture and antique fittings. Q201 rooms (Room prices start at 15,200Rbl). Extra Bed 1,200Rbl. VAT and Breakfast (1,750Rbl) not included. PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh
MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 775 92 22, www.kempinski. com. This five star hotel from the Kempinski group looks out over Lubyanka Square in the heart of the city, a stone’s throw away from Red Square. The hotel’s grand Art-Deco style echoes the turn of the century, when this former residence of Count Orlov became a luxury perfumer’s. Degas and Klimt style paintings adorn the walls of the rooms which are furnished with fine fabrics, gilded oak, marble and crystal. An original 1907 mosaic frames the windows looking out onto Nikolskaya street in the MosaiK restaurant, which serves Russian-European cuisine. The conference facilities are ultramodern from ball-room to board room, and the hotel offers plenty of places to relax too, with several bars, an Italian restaurant, a French bistro and a spa. Q211 rooms (Prices start at 16,000Rbl). PTHA6UFLGKDCW
Nikol’skaya Kempinski C-2, Ul. Nikolskaya 12,
Moscow Suites Serviced Apartments B-3, Ul.
Radisson Royal Hotel A-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.radisson.ru/ royalhotel-moscow. An absolutely monumental hotel, which with its 505 rooms and 29 floors, is easily the biggest luxury hotel in Moscow. The lobby takes in not only the reception, but also a huge interactive scale model of Moscow as it was back in the 1970s and the chance to buy a Rolls Royce. The rooms vary in colour schemes and size, but all benefit from huge beds that you almost need a step ladder to mount and original Socialist realist art. The bathrooms with panoramic views of the city in the ambassador suites are particularly inviting. Dining options take in a wealth of options including an outstanding Iranian restaurant. Not a place to do things by halves, the Royal has a full Olympic sized pool as well a gigantic fitness centre in the basement. Q497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. Breakfast 1,500Rbl. PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Novotel Moscow City Hotel Presnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www. novotel-moscow-city.com. Novotel’s latest addition to the Moscow scene is ideally placed amongst the glittering skyscrapers of the new Moscow City business district for those who like to work hard and relax just as hard as well. The flexible conference facilities leave nothing to be desired, whilst the suite category of rooms could host small meetings in themselves and come with a large sofa, separate bathroom for guests, and a Nespresso brand coffee machine for the caffeine-fuelled businessman. To relax after a hard day’s businessing there’s a spa with sauna and Turkish baths, a large restaurant, a free-standing fireplace in the bar for sitting down with the paper, calm minimalist design and beds of impressive proportions. Q360 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). PTHA6FLGKDW
The International Union of the Concierges was founded in 1929, when several Concierges from Paris decided to create a union based on cooperation and common ideas. The main concept is that the Concierges can cooperate more effectively in a team than individually. The organisation is non-political, non - religious and based only on friendship, partnership and enthusiasm of its members. The motto of the association is In Service Through Friendship! In 1952 concierges from 9 European countries met in Cannes for the first congress, and since then Les Clefs d’Or concierges meet every year in different countries. The Russian section was established in 1999 by the Chief Concierge of Baltschug Kempinski – Eugene Bagdasarov, and it gained international status in 2001. Since then, at least one concierge from Russia represents our country at the international congress. Since 2001 a lot of things have changed, and currently we have 38 members, representing hotels in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Sochi and also Kiev. In 2008, the association started a contest for young concierges, which was named after the famous concierge Andy Pongo. Andy Pongo was very well known for his dedication towards the concierge profession and the educational programme that he organised in Asia. Unfortunately, he passed away in 2007. The main aim of this contest is to involve more young concierges into the social life of the society and also to choose the best young concierge in the world. During the recent 60th congress in New Zealand, the Andy Pongo award was won by a concierge from Russia – Anna Endrikhovskaya. I sincerely hope that this award will bring a new passion and inspiration to my colleagues and will have an impact on the development of hospitality industry in Russia. Vive Les Clefs d’Or, Pavel Nikolaev President of Les CLefs d’Or Russia
noy bulvar, tel. (+7) 985 458 89 19, www.kdvorhotel.ru. This small boutique hotel on the top floor of a historic building is quiet and peaceful despite being a short walk away from Tverskaya Ulitsa and the Boulevard Ring. The name of the hotel, ‘Carriage Yard,’ harks back to the past when the area was home to carriage-makers, and the hotel’s design reflects this past with wooden wheels, the original attic beams and a tiled stove. The rooms are all modernly furnished, with a mini bar and free wifi. One of the rooms has a fantastic view over a nearby onion-domed church. A family room is available. Q PTHA6FLGKDW
Karetny Dvor Hotel C-1, Mal. Karetny per. 5, MTsvet-
Golden Ring Hotel А-4, Ul. Smolenskaya 5, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 725 01 65, www.hotel-goldenring.ru. This huge hotel is ideally located within a stone’s throw of two metro stations and just a short walk from the many shops and cafes of the popular Stary Arbat street. There are numerous different classes of room to choose from, although all come with a king size bed as standard. For obvious reasons the Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
ShchiSliva С-3, Ul. Volkhonka 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 393 39 61, www.volhonka9.ru. We think ShchiSliva deserves a large ‘spasibo!’ for bringing to our attention a different side to Russian food - it needn’t all be caviar, pies and elk slathered in sour cream! The light décor and mossy wall panels create a garden-like atmosphere, perfectly complimented by the wholesome food packed with Russian flavours, herbs and even - shock horror! - vegetables. That’s not to say you can’t get a square meal here, from a hearty Sunday brunch to a three course dinner and pine tree ice cream. Altogether it feels like a glimpse into an alternative Russia which, rather than being overrun by pizza and sushi restaurants, is making something quite special from its own homemade cuisine. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €. PTAGSW Vatrushka B-2, Ul. Bol. Nikitskaya 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 530 55 11, www.vatrushka-cafe.ru. Vatrushka’s spacious rooms, outsize furniture, teddies and vintage stop-motion cartoons give it a child-like feel, but the menu and decor are plenty grown up. As well as original, inventive starters and mains that mix Russian-style homeliness with international sophistication, there are sweet and sticky Russian cakes and baked goods, including of course the eponymous vatrushka, the iconic ring-shaped pastry filled with creamy set custard. If you’re not feeling up to any of the delicious but rich food, there’s really endearing tea served with jam and sushki biscuits (though quite how best to combine them is something of a puzzle for foreigners). QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW Uryuk Cafe A-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 12, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 985 410 00 86, www.urukcafe.ru. Uryuk specialises in colourful food with colourful names like ‘chakhlangan’ and ‘chukuduk’ (thankfully descriptions of the dishes are also provided so you’re not totally in the dark). The interior is a pleasant blend of laid back sofas and Caucasian rugs with a hint of French bistrot; it seems equally suited to life as a restaurant or a bar. Menu-wise there’s a big choice of different Uzbek dishes from soups and salads to all manner of beasts spiced, roasted and kebab’d. Then of course there’s tea served with an Uzbek sense of ceremony, and the hot snacks - variations on the theme of cheesy bready goodness - provide filling options for vegetarians. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTALBSW
Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop-укроп) and it usually finds its way into everything.
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
American and Latin American
kaya, tel. (+7) 499 218 15 81, www.cafeblues.ru. A suburban gem, this bar and restaurant hosts a live “Best Blues Jam” on Wednesdays, to the great delight of its enthusiastic patrons. The standard of the guitar groups and singers is truly superb, fostering a friendly local atmosphere and much energetic dancing. The café serves a great range of Mexican and American dishes- the fajitos were a particular favourite, as well as classic desserts such as Tiramisu and apple pie. Sadly the café does not serve any alcohol other than beer, and although you can bring your own the corkage is 300Rbl a bottle for alcohol under 18%, and 500Rbl if higher.The club hosts concerts Wednesday-Sunday, with karoake nights from Thursday-Saturday on the lower floor. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 until last guest, 13:00 until last guest, Sun 14:00 24:00. €. PAEW
Сafe Blues Proletarsky pr. 20, bldg. 1, MKantemirovs-
Bliny and snacks
Russian and Ukrainian
Cafe Pushkin B-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and popular with local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar. Q Thу first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 24:00. €€€€. PTALVEBSW Chemodan B-3, Gogolevsky bul. 25/1, MArbatskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 695 38 19, www.chemodan-msk.ru. This is the place to come for real Russian hunter’s fare. The menu is based around numerous old recipes found in a 19th Century Siberian cookbook - resulting in stag, bear, arctic goose and unusual Siberian fish such as white salmon and muksun holding court across the menu accompanied by other treats of the Taiga and homemade Russian vodka and other liqors. Portions are hefty and hearty and the warm and inviting 19th Century parlour interiors, discreetly lit by candles and old lamps, add to the feeling of shelter from a snowstorm, even in summer. Chemodan’s helpful staff and convivial atmosphere make for a wonderful experience for fans of historic references and kitsch-free Russian cuisine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAEGSW
Madame Galife D-1, Pr. Mira 26/1 (entrance on
Grokholsky per.), MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 775 26 01, www.madamgalife.ru. Madame, do you have a table near the window? If you are lucky enough to get your way, you will enjoy an enchanting, close-up view of one of Moscow’s smaller botanical gardens and the quirky homemade surroundings of Madame’s parlour room. Many of the items on the Georgian menu are prepared expertly on the rustic charcoal grill that sizzles to the left of the dining room entrance and the giant khachapuri is irresistible. But if you show up unannounced (and yes, you must ring a buzzer to be let in) and without a reservation, then you will be shown to the basement room, tucked in a corner somewhere and deprived of all that makes this magical restaurant so fun to dine in. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. €€. TAEBS
Snacks (zakuski -закуски) are very popular and include all manner of pickled things (solyony-соленый ) as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod-бутерброд). Pancakes (Bliny - блины) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham (vetchina-ветчина), caviar (ikra-икра), cheese (syr-сыр), mushrooms (griby-грибы) or sour cream (Smetana-сметана) or with sweet filling such as honey (myod –мед) or condensed milk (sgushonka - сгущенка).
Moe’s Ul. Pyatnitskaya 13, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 953 06 60, www.moesrussia.com. Cheap tex mex food plus cheap beer plus all the salsa you could ask for equals wonderfulness. That’s the formula Moe’s sticks to and it’s hard to disagree with its genius when every dish comes with free tortilla chips and a variety of salsas. The menu offers a choice between tacos, burritos, quesadillas and nachos with vegetarian, chicken or meat toppings, as well as a few soup and breakfast options, and vegetarians will find they’ve as much to choose from as everyone else. Simply pick your option and they’ll put it together straight away, plus you can customise to your tastes what goes in it. Being serenaded as you eat by inexplicable classical guitar remixes of pop songs and Christmas carols is the cherry on the cake (or on the burrito?). Also at pr. Mira 211 (Zolotoy Vavilon shopping centre, metro VDNKH). QOpen 09:00 23:00. €. PTAVGSW
Soups and salads
P E T G V B Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking venue Home delivery Outside seating A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking M Nearest station W Wi-Fi connection
Sakhli С-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sahli.ru/en. Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family recipes, a very warm and inviting country home style interior, complimented by a quiet summer terrace. Of particular note are the excellent lobio kakhetinsky (kidney beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese khinkali (giant cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEBW Suliko na Patriarshikh B-2, Ermolaevsky per. 7,
M Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 41 89, www. suliko.ru. Suliko is a place to eat and eat very well. Famous in Moscow for its khinkali, the giant meat-filled dumplings here do not disappoint. With the perfect blend of herbs and spices, they are rightly said to be some of the best outside of Georgia. Service is low key but spotless and a word of warning; order carefully, in traditional style, the portions here are really big. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. €. PTAUVBSW
Russians are big on soup (sup- суп) and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch. Ukha (уха) a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup Solyanka (солянка). Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic Russian salad is Olivye (оливье) - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy (селедка под шубой) which translates as ‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and beetroot.
4, MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 499 259 37 91, www. navarros.ru. This Latin American restaurant is large, popular and teeming with the noise of sizzling steaks and bubbly conversations. Salsa dances get going in the adjoining bar. Portions are generous and bound to keep hungry boys satisfied and the preparation of all dishes in general is authentic and delicious. Don’t miss out on the house speciality ceviche (fresh fish with chillis, coriander and lime), it is fantastic and we must admit, quite addictive. Navarro’s is far from the metro so it is advisable to arrive by car. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PALEBSW
Navarros Bar and Grill Shmitovsky proezd 23, bldg.
Stopka – Small vodka glass
Pelmeni (пельмени) - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and served with sour cream. Varenki (вареники) are the same but stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty - манты) are slightly bigger and often steamed, while the Georgian versions (khinkali хинкали) are huge and eaten with the hands. Beef stroganoff (бефстроганов) - a Russian classic, famous across the world. Pirogi/pirozhki (пироги/пирожки) - pies (usually made with bready yeast dough) stuffed with meat, cabbage, mushroom, fruits or even potato. Pirozhki are the small versions that look like little buns. Kotlety (котлеты) - little meat patties usually made with minced beef (govyadina - говядина) or pork (svinina - свинина). Frikadelki (фрикадельки) are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice and meat and usually served with a sauce.
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
Food from Former Republics
One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine which appears all over the place. Although generally quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meatfilled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup) and Armenian dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).
Asian and Indian
souznaya, tel. (+7) 495 543 54 26, www.aromass.ru. This Indian restaurant, which features a number of dishes from the Kerala region on its menu, gets reviews so good online that something almost seems amiss. Indeed, I knew one long-term expat who travelled at least once a month fully across the city to eat here. Located in the south of the city along the orange line, the food, the service and the ambience do not disappoint. There is an excellent selection of vegetarian options, Kingfisher beer, and plenty of seafood options which is no surprise considering that Kerala straddles the Arabian and Laccadive Seas. The dosas, tikkas, and seafood dishes all come especially recommended and Aromass will deliver anywhere in the city. The only minus of the place is that the portions are a bit small considering the prices. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAESW sitet, tel. (+7) 495 646 13 31, www.ayurveda.ru. Real, good Indian restaurants are something of a rarity in Moscow, so though Kerala is just tacked on to a yoga studio, it’s no less worthy because of that. It’s vibrant traditional vegetarian cuisine from the south west Indian region of Kerala is an unexpected gem hidden in a swish apartment block. Simple and authentic food is served in calm and private surroundings in the small restaurant room that you eventually reach through a warren of dark wood doors in the yoga studio. To add to the authenticity there’s not really a wide choice of dishes, but if you go for the 600Rbl set menu which changes regularly you’ll get a try of everything: curries, dal, rice, spiced Indian puddings, some kind of bready accompaniment and a pot of refreshing cumin tea. Even the chefs themselves are Keralan, so you can be sure it’s the real deal. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. €. PALGS
Aromass Ul. Krzhizhanovskogo 20/30, bldg. 1, MProf-
just how much dedication goes into this food. The volcanic hot stones are taken from remote mountain rivers in Japan, the kanzuri chili is specially preserved in snow - and don’t even get us started on the fish! The discreet atmosphere is perfect for business discussions or intimate dinners. Watch out for the great lunch deal - perfect for the full culinary experience on a smaller budget. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTALEW
Cafe Correa’s B-1, Ul. Gasheka 7 bldg.1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 96 54, www.correas.ru. Groovy cafe food brimming with freshness and taste, this kind of place really takes you away from Russia. In the style of a neighbourhood deli, the open kitchen means you can watch ever y thing being prepared.The waiter walks past doing bicep curls wi th the plates. That’s how casual it is. The leafy salads are so tasty that you will even see business men and burly gents tucking into them. The menu, which changes every Wednesday, is mouth-watering and whatever you can eat in, you can also take away. Also at ul. Bol. Ordinka 40/2 (metro Polyanka). Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €. PTAVGBSW Obraz Zhizni B-5, Ul. Preschistenka 40, bldg. 2, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 20 29/(+7) 926 902 31 58, www.o-zh.ru. A discreet café/bar/restaurant vaguely resembling an artsy friend’s living room - due largely to all the wood, orange walls, old-fashioned lamps and the iron tree strewn with ribbons in the corner. The menu feeds both meat-eaters and vegetarians very well.The lighter lunch and breakfast offerings are very well balanced if you aren’t looking to linger too long, while the fish is worth sticking around for. Here you can find сlassic greek salad and many kinds of soups. The low volume jazzy soundtrack and mindful yet discreet staff, do make lingering here a distinct possibility though - just glance around. See how many of the other guests seem to have finished eating long ago? It’s that kind of place. Our only complaint is that the art on display isn’t for sale. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAESW
Ayurvedic café Ootupura Michurinsky pr. 3, MUniver-
Roni C-2, Ul. Petrovka 20/1, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 625 26 06, novikovgroup.ru. Roni is a very Moscow style ‘gastropub’ - the staff are certainly less snooty than usual, the food is still top quality and the seating has a casual feel to it, but the chandeliers, low lighting and house music remind you that this is still Moscow underneath it all. If you like Asian spices you will love Roni, the menu is imaginative and strongly flavoured. There’s a focus on Japanese cuisine with most dishes cooked on either robata grill or the restaurant’s large open teppanyaki iron grill. Korean, Malaysian and Chinese influences are also prominent and without a doubt this kitchen really knows what it is doing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW Shanti E-1, Myasnitsky proezd 2/1, bldg.1, MKrasnye
Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 783 68 68, www.shanti.ru. The unusual music somewhere between trance and whale sound, combined with the Buddha statues, dragon motifs and dark lighting, can make this place feel like some kind of odd spa retreat. The menu offers only foodie forms of wellness though. Best described as Asian fusion, they have loads of different spring rolls, imaginative wok dishes as well as soups to name a few. If you find it a little expensive try the equally excellent, but more relaxed ‘shanti buffet’ next door. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €. PTAEBSW
Pancho Villa Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 52, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 54 13, www.pancho.ru. Pancho Villa has the distinction of promoting itself as a restaurant-museum, a rarity in Moscow. Located in a large Mexican-themed basement on Bolshaya Yakimanka, we found it mostly to be a great place to party. The happy hour specials almost call for inebriation with a selection of cocktails and shots on offer at the price of 2 for 1 until 19.00. It is indeed an unusual place in a good way, with wandering tequila girls pouring shots, Latin American dance lessons and a roving Cuban magician, who without much hyperbole, will blow your mind with his tricks. The Nachos Supremos come in portions rarely seen outside of North America, and the quesadillas and Jalapenos Rellenos are also quite good. The fajitas are also a safe bet if a bit pricey. To be fair this place is best enjoyed if one is not looking for a quiet night out. Q Open 11:00 - 06:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW Starlite Diner C-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 44 61, www.starlite.ru. It’s most certainly American and those red booths are the real thing - the only Russian elements here are the electric sockets. You’ll hear more English spoken in this diner than anywhere else in Moscow, which adds to the otherworldly home-awayfrom-home experience. The menu spins out all the classics in authentic style, including huge waffles, burgers and giant milkshakes made with oreo cookies, massive breakfast and huge filter coffees from the pot. American diners are now de rigeur in Moscow but Starlite are still the original and best. They now have five 24 hour venues, with the original being the giant silver truck in a leafy garden near Mayakovskaya metro (Bol. Sadovaya 16), although our favourite is the latest spacious venue on Stastnoy bulvar. Also at ul. Vernadskogo (metro Universitet), Korovy val 9a (metro Oktyabrskaya) and Bolotnaya pl. 16/5 (metro Tretyakovskaya). Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTABSW Moscow In Your Pocket
Darbars Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38,16th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www. darbar.ru. Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following of faithful Indian expats. It is tastefully decorated in a minimal style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTALVSW Mama Tao D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 56, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 42 49, www.mamatao.ru. A reasonable Chinese place with colourful and tasty food and a fair idea of what constitutes a good portion size. It just manages to avoid looking too much like one Moscow’s millions of sushi restaurants by merit of an abundance of pot plants which along with the dark wood decor creates quite a laid-back atmosphere. Otherwise, it offers what you might expect from a Chinese restaurant, down to the fortune cookie at the end. Also at Leninsky pr. 70. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €. PTAESW MEGU A-3, Lotte Hotel Moscow, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg.
2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. Popular in New York’s fine dining circles MEGU brings its flair for finding the finest ingredients with it to Moscow and is quite simply the premier Japanese restaurant in town. Finally here’s the chance to find out what Japanese service standards and fine dining are really about. Signature dishes such as the irresistible Kanzuri shrimp or the premium Wagyu Kagero Yaki (stone grilled wagyu steak) are emblematic of
August - September 2013
Tapa’ Rillas C-1, Strastnoi Bulvar 4/3 (entrance in the yard), MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 41 59, www. taparillas.ru. This brightly decorated tapas bar hidden in a grungy courtyard just off Pushkinskaya square is a super laidback venue for an informal dinner and drinks, especially at the weekends when Spanish guitarists wander the tables and diners get involved in the inevitable Gypsy Kings sing-a-long. For once the wine is more than reasonably priced, although it is easy to rack up a bill by over ordering on the generously portioned tapas plates. If you are just here for grazing its best to opt for the tasty bite size pinchos, while hungry diners may prefer to hold out for a huge paella to share. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTABSW
MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 31 52, www.restoranyugoslavia.ru. For the many of us unfamiliar with Serbian cuisine, it occupies a unique spot between pie-loving Eastern Europe and bright Mediterranean flavours with a healthy dollop of Greek-style pastries and buttermilk cheese. Though underground, the restaurant feels bright and not cramped. The fine old Russian tradition of always having run out of whatever it is you want to order is upheld here but there is nonetheless a wide selection of dishes to try. Try Serbian classics such as ajvar, a roasted red pepper dip, wash it down with rakija, the national drink of fruit brandy, choose from a large range of salads and round it off with some very sweet sweets. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €. PASW
Neskuchny Sad B-5, Frunzenskaya nab. 18D, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 363 64 64, www.nesad.ru. This restaurant is in a truly stunning location-set atop a renovated barge at Frunzenskaya Naberezhnaya opposite Gorky Park, the rooftop veranda has views of the parks on the other side of the river and down to the Kremlin. The cool river breeze and cane armchairs add to the air of being on a luxury cruise. Neskuchny Sad serves classic dishes as well as Italian cuisine, with large pizzas. The cocktail menu is artisan and extensive- we tried the Lychee Martini and the Mango and Rosemary Cointreau Fizz. If you do indulge in the cocktails, please note that the boat sways slightly on the water, so it’s not just you. Neskuchny Sad is gaining in popularity with a smart clientele, so do book ahead. Q Open 12:00 - 06:00. PASW
MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 68 83, www.pel-man. ru. Filled dumplings in all their forms have got to be the world’s ultimate comfort food, and if that’s your formula for making a restaurant you would have to try pretty hard to be anything other than just great. Pelman offers more than just pelmeni there’s also vareniki and international variations on the theme such as dim sum, gyoza, ravioli and profiteroles. Whilst 200Rbl will only get you 10 or so pelmeni here, they’re doused in butter and full of wonderful calorifical things so you hopefully won’t feel cheated. You can opt to take them away or eat in, where the jukebox will serenade you with some lively tunes. There’s also a ‘complaints wall’ which you’re welcome to write on, though we didn’t spot any criticisms on it. This could be because the restaurant’s mascot is the tattooed strongman Pelman, who judging by the photos was born with a moustache, and handy rolling pins decorate the café’s interior, presumably for dealing with dissatisfied customers. Our only complaint? Though Pelman is ostensibly ‘fast food’, it wasn’t prepared as quickly as it might have been, which on reflection is probably a sign that your chosen dumplings will be served freshly cooked, straight from the kitchen. Also at Gorky Park (Ul. Krymsky Val 9, near the Buran space shuttle, metro Oktyabrskaya ). QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. PTAEGBSW
Yugoslaviya D/E-2, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 40/22 bldg. 4,
2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www. newdeli.ru. In Moscow it’s often the impossible to find places that turn out to be the best and Delicatessen definitely falls into this category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colouful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you’ve been let in on a great little secret is the real winning element. Reservations recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW
Kalina Cafe С-4, Prechistenskaya nab. 17, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 16 39, www.kalinacafe. ru. The sister establishment of the famous Kalina Bar, this stylish restaurant-bar really puts a focus on the food with an adventurous menu led by the creations of the young Italian head chef Michele Lanzani. New inventions are always finding their way into the menu but mouth-watering dishes such as the tatar of langoustines with wasabi foam or the tagliatta of beef with grappa are permanent features of the menu by popular demand. The wine list is extensive and cocktails here are expert. With a karaoke room, late night DJs and live music Kalina Cafe is also a great venue for glamorous late night drinks - especially when the dramatic view of the Moscow river and Red October factory is lit up. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PALEW Kitchenette С-2, Kamergersky per. 6, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 221 88 47, www.kitchenette.com.ru. As the name suggests, Kitchenette takes popular elements of the world’s favourite cuisines - French breakfast croissants and crème brûlée, American burgers, Italian seafood linguine, English fish and chips - so there’ll be something familiar for everyone on their menu. Its main venue has the happy advantage of being on the pretty Kamergersky Pereulok, which suits its laid back European bistrot/café feel. The sweet homemade lemonade is a good summery refresher and the slick black and red interior lends itself to chilled-out afternoons of conversation over a cup of coffee. Also at Nab. Presnenskaya 2 (Afimall City shopping centre, floor 5). Q Open 08:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW MC Traders Restaurant & Bar Novotel Moscow City,
Presnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 99, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. On the ground floor of the brand new Novotel in Moscow City, the MC Traders restaurant has a great buffet with hot and cold meals ranging from French bread and cheeses to sushi to crème brûlée. It also serves international cuisine, business lunches, and their own irresistible bitesized Novotel-branded French macaroons. The large open plan space is divided into rounded white booth-like settings which complement the unusual bright minimalist design of the bar. QOpen 06:30 23:00. €€€. PTALW
Pelman Hand Made Café B-2, Tverskaya ul. 20/1,
Delicatessen C-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Karetnaya 20, bldg.
tel. (+7) 926 926 59 26, www.bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the dough is magic: thin crispy and light. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Moscow, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy.The toppings are fresh and full of taste and flavour. Bocconcino never fails to please Italian cuisine fans and hence has a strong following of faithful regular clients who have been visiting for years. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALSW
Bocconcino С-2, Strastnoy bul. 7, bldg. 1, MTverskaya,
Mmmm, what could be nicer than a fermented rye bread drink on a hot day? Whether it sounds appealing or not kvass, a traditional Russian soft drink, is the taste of Russian summer. Once the hot months arrive you’ll notice big yellow barrels full of this traditional soft drink parked on street corners throughout the city. Somewhat akin to a half-flat non-alcoholic ale it is an acquired taste, but most Russians seem to love it. Marketed as a patriotic alternative to cola this traditionally homemade drink is now available in supermarkets under brand names such as Klassik and Nikola. Kvass can also sometimes find its way into your food as in the cold summer soup okroshka made with raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs topped off with some cold kvass.
Tsifry E-2, Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka, Ul. Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 78, www.restaurant-numbers.ru. The veranda of the Tsifri Restaurant at this five-star hotel on Ul. Pokrovka is a perfect place to escape the Moscow heat, with its classic summer menu and signature cocktails by famous mixologist Max Brodarsky. The summer menu is light and experimental, with the novel flavours of its raspberry and Coppa salad complimenting traditional Russian dishes such as the soup Okroshka, made with the refreshing rye-drink Kvas. The scallops, served with spicy sauce and apple puree, seared to perfection, are a reminder of the seashore in the midst of the city. Relax on the soft white sofas in the evening, when the veranda hosts live smooth jazz music. Q Open 24hrs. Summer terrace 11:00 until last guest. PTAULESW Zafferano А-3, Lotte Plaza shopping centre, Novinsky
bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 93 05, www. zafferanorest.ru. Novinsky Boulevard might not offer the most inspiring views, but Zafferano’s bright year-round roof terrace makes up for that. Larger-than-life pot plants and sofas for lounging are complemented by the large array of salads on the international menu. Since this is Moscow you can correctly assume an additional sushi menu; the main menu offers a mix of global-influenced dishes and desserts. Eastern dishes such as dolma, plov and kebab are prepared with a twist, as are traditional Russian desserts. The biggest draw though of this neatly designed restaurant isn’t just the extensive wine list or the berry-filled puddings, but most of all its pleasant leafy terrace. Q Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PTAESW
Il Forno C-2, Ul. Neglinaya 8/10, MTeatralnaya, tel.
Mechta Е-5, Ul. Sadovnicheskaya 84, bldg. 3/7,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 633 21 11, www.mechtacafe.ru. Mechta’s secret lies not so much in a creative menu as the ability to make relatively simple dishes well. Forget about mousses and reductions - how do you make a piece of toast taste so good? A place serving an all day breakfast with plush armchairs can’t help but be chilled out. Yet it also feels like a proper grown-up dining experience and bar, with a selection of appetising cocktails of cheering proportions. Then there’s the attentive staff and pleasant decor: this place pretty much ticks all the boxes. Q Open 24 hrs. €€. PTALBSW
(+7) 495 621 90 80, ilforno.ru. This very centrally located Italian restaurant has been around for years and hasn’t let down its standards or its set of regulars customers. Breakfast is popular as this is still one of the only places in this part of town where it is available at 8 a.m. and weekday afternoons are also busy when there’s 20% off the whole menu. Il Forno’s specialties are its large thin pizzas baked in their signature wood-fired oven and the homemade pasta, which inevitably leaves your mouth watering for a second helping. Also at ul. Ostozhenka 3/14 (metro Kropotkinskaya). QOpen 08:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTALVSW
Sukhoe – Dry Polusladkoe – Semi-sweet Sladkoe – Sweet
August - September 2013
Moscow In Your Pocket
Beeftro Steak House and Burger Bar C-1, Ul. Tsvetnoy bulvar 26, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 545 43 53, www.beeftro.ru. Aiming to bridge the gap between laidback bistro dining and steakhouse meaty goodness, Beeftro has nudged its way in with a relaxed restaurant that also serves top steaks. The ‘1930s retro’ look is bright, clean and oh-so stylish and steers well-clear of the usual macho steakhouse clichés. The staff, who are trussed up in trilbys and braces, are another plus point - friendly, efficient and well-versed in the intricacies of the menu. The beef is corn-fed organic US black Angus and is very well-prepared and mouthwateringly good and goes particularly well in their excellent burger and the selection of sauces are winners. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW
Bezzabot D-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 24/7, bldg. 1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 660 49 31, www.bezzabotcafe.ru. Sometimes in Moscow, even the simplest of tasks - like finding somewhere to sit down with a cup of tea - can seem like a mammoth effort. The solution? Bezzabot (meaning ‘carefree’) is as good as its word. One of the joys of this place is that it’s not trying too hard to be something in particular: it just is, and it works. There are salads, biscuits and cakes (though admittedly the food’s nothing special), sensible kinds of tea and coffee at sensible prices. You buy your food at the counter so you won’t spend half the time trying to flag down the waiter. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €. PTABSW Cafe Buloshnaya E-2, Lyalin per. 7/2, bldg.1, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 32 95, www.buloshnaya.ru. Situated on a quiet side street off Pokrovka ultisa, Buloshnaya is decked out in the old-world Victorian tea-house style, complete with dark wooden furniture, heavy drapes surrounding the large windows and plush sofas for sitting back and enjoying your afternoon tea. As you would expect from a Victorian parlour the music is calming and unobtrusive and they have a very nice selection of pies and cakes, although this is the twentieth Century so no cucumber sandwiches here ma’am! QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEBSW Chainaya Vysota E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChystye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 225 59 96, www.cha108.ru. An ice-cream-café-cum-specialist-tea-shop, it features delicate mixes from the minds of local artists such as famous mime Slava Polunin. The available flavours include dandelion honey, elk milk, kvass and linseed, with more daring combinations such as the gorgonzola, bergamot and pear. Menus are mounted on thick slabs of wood, but not yet in English. There is an equally varied selection of granola, and seaweed-sheet snacks, all in the setting of a bookshop, furnished with clean, simple linen. It also has an oriental-style room for tea ceremonies where its 300 kinds of tea can be taken at floor-level, under the gaze of an original Yuriy Norshteyn hand-drawn hedgehog. When out and about don’t miss their stand in Gorky Park opposite the Buran space shuttle (Gorky Park, Pushkinskaya Embankment, tel: (+7) 903 010 80 30). QOpen 11:00 - 00:30, Sun 14:00 - 00:30. PTA
Italianets C-1, Ul. Samotechnaya 13, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 688 64 01/(+7) 495 688 56 51, www. italian.ru. It’s a fair old walk from the metro and there’s little in the way of tourist sights, but the journey is worth it if you are hoping to stumble upon some really top quality authentic Italian cuisine. The head chef and owner Giuseppe has brought with him plenty of expertise from his native Puglia - the fish is particularly good - and believes in mixing up classic Italian ingredients in new ways that actually make sense (no silly foams and Asian effects here). His dishes are perfectly balanced and in authentic style, generously portioned. Family friendly but also with more intimate spaces for romantic diners it’s no wonder they are always busy. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAULVEBSW Mamma Giovanna C-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 87 20, www.mamma-giovanna.ru. This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t make the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks in vistas it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate atmosphere. The crispy pizzas here are particularly delectable and fortunately the place is laidback enough that you can go to town on them with your hands. The mains such as the excellent grilled tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly be filling, although desserts are markedly dull in comparison. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTALSW MoMo D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest.ru. This Italian restaurant perhaps defines itself a little too narrowly - although specialising in pizza and homemade fresh pasta, it has a strong selection of fish and meat too, served in a style that wouldn’t be out of place in an upmarket British restaurant. Be careful though - the massive choice of seafood comes priced by the 100g, and it’s difficult not to get carried away! The wine list prides itself on its selection of French and Italian vintages, but its fresh juices look equally appetising. Its business-class clientele are dispersed across three rooms, with its most spacious resembling a summer terrace, complete with wicker chairs. The other two are more low-lit and glamorous, and it is in these that MoMo’s plans to function as an exhibition space for modern photographers will come into play. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PTAVEBSW Sorriso Osteria and Pizzeria C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7,
MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 506 24 44, www.pizzasorriso.ru. The real winner here is the pizza - it’s long and incredibly thin and arrives at your table straight after being cooked to a crispy delight in a stone wood-fired oven. There are also other Italian favourites on offer, but we are always tempted by the pizza. The smart staff and a soundtrack that for once does not include songs by Eros Ramazotti adds yet more fresh air to the usual formula. If you are around Red Square, it’s the ideal choice for watching the world go by on the buzzing ul. Tverskaya from the shade of their summer terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTASW
Chicago Prime Steakhouse C-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 17 17, www.chicagoprime.ru. Everyone may tell you it’s the best, and we are going to too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with no doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just as accomplished and the portions are huge. If you can’t afford to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at the bar. A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the winning combination. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€. PTALESW Goodman B-1/2, Ul. Tverskaya 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 98 88, www.goodman.ru. The good in Goodman says it all. This stylish steak house chain is informal, relaxed, and the food is to be savoured. Great care is put into your meal and how it is served. The wood interior plays host to soft leather couches and all the waiters wear chef’s whites. The lavatories are five star, just like the service. Their menu, although predominantly meat oriented, has a hefty chunk of salads and seafood. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALEBSW Louisiana American Steakhouse D-4, Ul. Pyatnitskaya
3, bldg. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 42 44, www.louisianasteakhouse.com. Ranging from the standard rib-eye steak to the deliciously tender flank steak, cuts of veal and lamb, you can choose from Australian, Irish and American, grain-fed or grass-fed too. Although sides such as fries have to be ordered separately, they’re not very expensive additions, and for the less devoted carnivores, a Tex-mex menu and salads are also on offer. Number plates from Kentucky, Tennessee and, of course, Louisiana, scatter the walls, which are also adorned with native American models, and one funny ‘high-society’ marriages column from an old paper. The waiting staff compliment the theme, all wearing checked shirts, with the males having gun-holsters slung over their waistbands. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PABS
Conversation Cafe B-2, Ul. Bol. Nikitskaya 23/14/9,
Cafes, Coffee houses and bakeries
MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 651 84 05, www.cafepublika.ru. Perhaps this place has a little way to go to earn its self-appointed title of ‘art-café’. Nonetheless it makes good use of historic building in which it finds itself; the open-plan style lends itself well to the window-lined room with views of historic Moscow. The international menu is likewise not as creative as you might like from somewhere like this, but the light business lunch option (salad, soup and drink) seems fairly priced at 180Rbl. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sut 12:00 until last guest. €€. PABS
MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 985 443 73 44, www.conversationcafe.ru. Though the all-American-themed names of dishes and cake-heavy menu might promise overindulgence, look closer and you’ll see fresh fruit and wholesome, genuine ingredients are just as important here. Contrary to expectations, drinks aren’t sickly sweet (though still not short on calories). At the back of the café is an open plan kitchen that fills the room with delicious smells of freshly baked cookies. On the menu are unexpectedly tasty combinations such as blueberry and melted cheese on toast, plenty of slap up breakfasts and their signature ice cream based on American favourite flavours like pancakes and maple syrup or blueberry muffins. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €. PTASW
Art-Café Publika D-4, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 30, bldg. 1,
4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 57 75, www.koffeecakecorner.com. This American coffee house all the way from New York is full of sticky pancakes, chocolatey muffins and other happy-making sweet treats. It would be only too easy to get addicted to their irresistible Nutella coffee and peanut butter hot chocolate (and there are plenty of other shamefully indulgent flavours to pick from). Then of course there’s toasted bagels, burgers and plenty of choices even for vegetarians - it’s not hard to see why Koffeecake Corner has such a loyal following back home. Q Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW
Koffeecake Corner B-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www.lpq.ru. This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls perfect for dipping your croissant in, Belgian tartines (open-face sandwiches), salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many locations have excellent street terraces including this one just a short distance from Red Square, and all the ‘LPQ’ (as they are affectionately nicknamed by locals) also run great value lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations across the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), ul. Pyatnitskaya 6/1, bldg. 1 (metro Tretyakovskaya) and ul. Lesnaya 5 (metro Belorusskaya). Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu - Sat 24hrs. €. PABSW
Le Pain Quotidien C-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6,
Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed. Admission prices are indicated where applicable and note that in many places a ‘face control’ (dress code) policy applies.
Bars and Cafe Bars
Bar 69 Bis C-1/2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 9/8, bldg.
7, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 89 84, www.bar69bis.ru. For want of a better word we would have to describe this joint as just plain random. One minute they’re playing Sting on VH1 Classic and the next, the volume has been cranked up for a pumping dubstep DJ set. Young hipsters and dreadlocked hippies share bar space with smartly dressed secretaries, alcohol is strong and occasionally homemade (ask for their nastoiki if you are looking to get drunk fast) while the décor is a mix of battered looking antiques including a massive old punching bag and a Victorian street lamp. Most curious is the dartboard. We presume it never gets used as it is tacked on to the back of the main entrance door. With low prices and the air of a genuine drinkers den, this is a place to get drunk in. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 until last guest, Sat 17:00 until last guest. To book a table for Sun call (+7) 495 629 89 84. PAEBSW
Summer is still here and what a wonderful time it is to be living it up on the city’s many summer terraces and beer gardens. In Moscow you’ve a whole range of places that you can perch up at and enjoy the sun. From May until September Moscow is filled with al fresco drinking and dining options - from the cafes lined up along Moscow’s main walking streets Stary Arbat and Kamergersky pereulok, to the open roofs and balconies of old factories and swanky high rise shopping centres and on into the secluded gardens and courtyards of the city’s back streets. Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 87 45, www.art-garbage. ru. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAESW Bistrot Canaille B-2, Ul. Bol. Bronnaya 11, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 499 391 01 78, www.bistrotcanaille. com. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €. PTAS Cafe Pushkin B-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. Q Thу first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTALVEBSW Dacha na Pokrovke Е-2, Pokrovsky bul. 16-18 bldg. 4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. €. PTAEBSW Kvartira 44 C-4, Ul. Mal.Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34, www.k44.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEBSW Le Pain Quotidien C-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, M Teatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www. lpq.ru. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu - Sat 24hrs. €. PABSW Madame Boulanger B-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. €. PAGBSW Sorriso Osteria and Pizzeria C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 506 24 44, www. pizzasorriso.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTASW Starlite Diner C-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 44 61, www.starlite.ru. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PTABSW Tsifry E-2, Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka, Ul. Pokrovka 40, bldg. 2, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 57 78, www.restaurant-numbers.ru. Q Open 24hrs. Summer terrace 11:00 until last guest. PTAULESW
Madame Boulanger B-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01. This quaint little French-style bakery and cake shop sells all manner of fresh baked breads and savoury snacks such as quiches, sandwiches, salads and pies. On the sweet side there’s plenty to tickle your fancy with the classic French éclairs, handmade chocolates, macaroons and of course obvious favourites croissants. If you choose to eat in you’ll have the extra delight of dining from gorgeous mismatched antique fine china crockery and admire the charming interior, or opt to sit out on the summer terrace with views of the boulevard, and musicians are welcome to serenade the other guests on their piano. Drinks are also available to go; cakes and other tasty treats can be made to order and delivered to your door. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. €. PAGBSW
Ring), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 16 38, www. ginza.ru. This inviting and cosy café, part of French bakery and patisserie chain Paul, has fast become a favourite in Moscow. At the counter as you enter you can pick up breads, sandwiches, pastries and the like to go, or alternatively you may opt to squeeze yourself into the petite café area and enjoy a meal. Paul has a huge breakfast menu and is great for light lunches such as quiche or the irresistible croquemadame. On the sweet side Paul’s pastries are scrumptious authentic French bites - we especially love the strawberry tarts, chaussons aux pommes and custard pies, whilst their refreshing iced frappucinos are a great pick-me-up. Also at Ul. Tverskaya 23/12 bldg.1, Gruzinsky Val 28/45, and Ul. Pyatnitskaya 20. Q Open Mon - Fri 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. €. PAVGSW
Art Garbage D-3, Starosadsky per. 5, M Kitay
Paul A-3, Ul. Arbat 54/2, bldg. 1 (entrance on Garden
(+7) 495 276 07 36, www.barrybar.ru. Barry bar sports a surprisingly stylish interior, despite the now very cliche moustache theme - the floor is covered in striking colourful ceramic tiling, which is complimented by unusually shaped lamps, barebrick walls and disco balls over by the DJ area. The clientele tend to be well-dressed and groomed and more than a little fashionable as well. During the week it’s a quiet place to hang out with a cocktail listening to some chilled out house and at weekends the music and buzz is just about funky enough to justify that pretty dance floor which sees some action past midnight. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PAW
Barry Bar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 1, MTeatralnaya, tel.
Stary Telegraf C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MOkhotny Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 506 22 44, www.tverskaya7.com.. Open 24hrs, this cafe is good fix at any time of day. If you’ve just arrived from an early train, or you’re on your way home after a night out you’ll be pleased to hear that breakfast here starts at 06:00 a.m.and runs way on into lunch time. The menu is particularly strong in baked goods, pies, sandwiches, croissants and the like while larger mains are also available. Sweet and savoury topped waffles and unusual flavours of French macaroon such as white truffle are a particular highlight. Being so close to Red Square it’s a great refuelling spot while on the tourist trail, while those who like to go to coffee shops to read or work will find there’s always a quiet corner to hide away in. Q 24hrs. PASW
Bar Strelka C-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAULBSW British Queen C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel: (+7) 495 226 23 23. British Queen wears its monarchist tendencies on its sleeve – from the Beefeater doorman to the snug of the Queen Victoria bar, and on into the Queen Mary dining room. But while it looks like a reconstruction of a typical British boozer, and it boasts the welcome sight of beers from Cornwall’s St. Austell Brewery among the usual suspects on tap, closer inspection reveals it to be surprisingly Russian. Not only is the menu monolingual, it also steers away from typical pub grub in favor of the soups, salads and zakusky of a “Pivnoi Restoran”. Nothing wrong with that, but an odd decision given the Brit branding. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.
Cafe Bar Ekus D-1, Bol. Sukharevsky per. 25/23, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 915 106 64 66/(+7) 985 157 29 93, www.quevola.ru. Ok we have to admit this place does not look like much at all. A tiny bar, a couple of tables with plastic tablecloths and metal chairs strewn about and the odd sombrero here and there, make you feel like you’re in a very poorman’s apartment but if you are looking for Moscow’s Spanish speaking community and quality South American music, this is the place. The beer is easily the coldest in Moscow (they keep the glasses in the fridge), but the staff, clientele and inefficient air-conditioning make the place feel as hot as the owner’s native Columbia. Q Open Mon - Fri 18:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 until last guest. PENS Cafe Retseptor B-2, Ul. Bol. Nikitskaya 22/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 66 86, www.cafereceptor. ru. Tread carefully down the steep stairs and make yourself at home in this tiny artistic cellar bar. Every inch of the place has been customised or graffitied by the regulars giving the whole ensemble a lived in and loved feel. Generally the vibe is very mellow, there’s live acoustic folk and jazz music or film screenings most nights and at the weekends they bring in funk DJs to liven things up a bit and encourage some cramped dancing. Wine is a popular tipple as are the exotic teas which come by the tankard. The varied menu is packed with fresh produce in the form of salads, pies and some lesser-known Asian specialities and has plenty of vegetarian options. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PAVW
Eshchyo pazhalusta – One more round please
So ldom – With Ice
August - September 2013
Moscow In Your Pocket
Chelsea C-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 12/27, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 88, www.chelsea-pub.ru. There’s nothing like a great British boozer, as many Moscow imitations have found to their cost. Chelsea is among the latest to attempt to translate the concept, and like most of its rivals it manages both hits and misses. A big thumbs up for the bar that greets new arrivals - dark, intimate and unpretentious, it feels like a place where fast friendships can be struck over a pint. Applause also for an extensive selection of Sunday roasts, and a well presented pint of Boddington’s bitter. But the ambience of the main dining room, with its pictures of Maggie Thatcher and the Queen Mum, somehow vaults beyond the gastropub target and lands somewhere uncomfortably close to a tea room, albeit with big screen sport on offer. Q Open 24hrs. €€. PASW Didu D-2, Myasnitskaya ul.24, bldg.2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 13 20, www.cafe-didu.ru. For some stylistic reason everywhere from the doors to the toilet walls have been attacked by plastisine shapes crafted by idle hands into people, flowers, logos, names and other more suggestive shapes - perhaps its a hint towards the age of the average guest here, or at least their attention span. On quieter evenings it can be a nice venue for drinks with friends, albeit a little too young for some. Come weekends there’s a much more Europop vibe as the air pumps with the latest party tunes and a young sparkly crowd come to flirt and down cocktails under neon lights. Q Open 12:00-06:00 PTASW Edward’s Pub Artplay, Ul. Nizh. Syromyatnicheskaya 10, MKurksaya, tel. (+7) 926 358 36 76. It calls itself a pub, but this tiny place tucked under the arches at the Artplay complex is really more of a cafe which serves beer. This book-lined nook has a feel of faded English grandeur about it, and feels like an attempt to recapture a literary circle in inter-war London. That caters nicely to the artsy, studenty crowd which comes to exhibitions and shows at Artplay. Busier during the day, the food tends to the snackier end of the market and can be in short supply by evening time. However, it makes a nice alternative to Clumba, the main restaurant on this site. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu - Sun 10:00 - 06:00. €. PASW Hard Rock Cafe A-3, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru. This is the mac-daddy of American style food and fun. Three levels of rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a central dancefloor on the second floor with a DJ booth above. Food here is a bit disappointing (this is guacamole?) and their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea than to any long island tea we remember drinking. They play rock music, and after 9pm on weekends, there’s a cover charge. The place is pretty popular so get in early and eat before you go. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu 09:00 until last guest, Fri - Sun 24hrs. PTAEBS La Bottega Wine Bar and Cafe A-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 213 30 88, www. labottega.ru. Located in amongst the big banks and consultants of the White Square skyscraper cluster, the market for this upscale wine bar is obvious. The wine selection is extensive, albeit mostly European in focus and prices cross the whole gamut from 1,500 a bottle to 15,000 for the most exclusive vintages from the cellar. The lighting is dim and the combination of floor-to-ceiling windows, aged leather sofas and bare brick walls certainly add the right kind of understated atmosphere to those sophisticated deal-breaking drinks. La Bottega also serves various French and Italian snacks to accompany the wine. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thur, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PAW Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 62 95, www.citycafe. ru. Saying LookIn is a ‘cafe’ is a bit of a con. With this lighting and music volume really it’s a bar, although one of the more tame ones were office workers pop in for lunch and men eat chicken soups and drink tea in the evening. The food arrives relatively quickly and is of fair quality for the area and the same can be said of the cocktails.The music is that classic mellow mix of chilled house, which mixes oddly with the enticing rock themed posters covering the whole place. QOpen 10:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 06:00. ABW
Look In Cafe C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 9, bldg. 1,
B2 Club B-2, Ul. Bol. Sadovaya 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PAEBSW
skaya, tel: (+7) 495 623 25 94. Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. On the recent night that we went, we were luckily able to get a table and were treated to service and food that usually costs a whole lot more in a location like this. The soups, steaks and seafood dishes our table enjoyed were all of great value and the alcohol selection was fairly priced. When feeling unsure about what you want to enjoy this is a safe bet: just make sure to come early or book a table in advance. Q Open 11:30 - 05:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 05:00.
Krisis Zhanra E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MKur-
Club Garage С-5, Brodnikov per. 8, M Polyanka,
tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October. Q Open 24hrs. PASW
MyBar C-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatral-
naya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79. This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-toearth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Tuesdays and Thursdays are now live music nights with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner and relaxed opening times have made it a hit with both locals and stars such as the Crazy Horse cabaret and Wes Borland of Limp Bizkit fame with his band the Black Light Burns. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd gets lively. PAW
Club Vermel D-3, Raushskaya nab. 4, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238 33 03, www.vermel.ru. Although it seems like a standard mood-lit trendy bar upon first entry, the venue is home to bands, cinema evenings and also a restaurant, all compactly organised in the brick-walled basement space. Having been open for 17 years, and with a director who’s run the place for 10 years, they have worked on some original twists to standard Moscow clubs. Alongside their britpop, rock and indie ‘vibe’, the venue is also home to weekend discos, and markets of handmade items also sporadically take place. As well as running a business lunch, the club also offers a ‘business dinner’ on Monday-Friday between 5 p.m. and 8 p.m., and menus are in both English and Russian, with some delightfully funny translations - “don’t be afraid of ordering a carp!”. Additionally, a ‘house cocktail’ containing hand-made horseradish vodka is on offer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat 16:00 - 06:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PAESW Gogol Club C-2, Stoleshnikov per.11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane and there are plenty of quiet nooks to escape to if things get too hectic near the dancefloor. The music is bohemian European stuff you probably won’t remember the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. PAEBSW
BottleBar D-4, Shopping Centre Pyatnitsky, Pyatnitsky per. 2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 646 49 25, www.bottlebar.ru. As its straightforward name suggests, BottleBar isn’t trying to be a flashy high-end bar, not a hip dive bar, nothing special. What it does do is sell good, inexpensive drinks. The cocktails are some generally quite tasty and original concoctions which during their happy hours (16:00-19:00 Monday to Thursday) are definitely at ‘go on then I’ll have another one’ prices. Large groups (or foolhardy individuals) can also order sharing cocktails in giant martini glasses. Those in a desperate hurry to down as much alcohol as they can in a short space of time might find it’s not the place for them, as the service runs as what might be termed a ‘laid-back’ pace. Whilst their dark, spacious and very faintly pub-like interior doesn’t exactly radiate atmosphere, it’s pleasant enough with a few bottle-themed twists, but ultimately, it’s a bar - it’s not there for the décor. Q Open Mon - Wed 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 until last guest, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 05:30. Closed Sun. PAESW Secret Bar C-2, Stoleshnikov per. 6, bldg. 3 (down alley behind Jean Jacques), MTverskaya, tel: (+7) 495 921 07 50, www.secretbar.ru. Who would guess that a discreet door down an alley off one of Moscow’s fanciest shopping streets hides one of Moscow’s most popular cocktail bars? They would be even more surprised by the democratic door policy and cheap prices! These factors may help explain why Secret Bar (hence the name) is packed with a hip and fun-loving crowd on the weekends, and those looking to savour a well-crafted cocktail or hookah during the weeknights. On the busy nights it can take a while to get a drink, but the cocktails are worth the wait, and with these prices, you can order a few at a time! QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. PAESW August - September 2013
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Lenin Mausoleum C-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. Join the super-long queue at the entrance to Red Square nearest to the Alexandrovsky Gardens. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.
Must See Moscow
The obvious starting point of any sightseeing trip to Moscow is Red Square, the heart of the city with the iconic domes of the magnificent St. Basil’s Cathedral at its helm. Browse the shops and gourmet supermarket of the historic GUM department store, queue up early to catch a glimpse of mummified Lenin and explore the long and turbulent history of Russians in the State Historical Museum. After watching the guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier pass through the imposing Kremlin walls in the Alexandrovsky gardens and explore the Kremlin’s numerous historic churches. If you are feeling flush splash out on a ticket to see the Kremlin armory filled with the crown jewels of the Tsars.
The Kremlin C-3, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the worldfamous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest.
Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.
Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484- 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990. The Patriarch’s Palace. Once the home of the Moscow Patriarch, this grand medieval building is now a museum where ecclesiastical treasures of the Orthodox church are on display as well as various precious tableware, furniture, jewellery and clothing used in the court of the medieval Tsars. The building also often houses temporary exhibitions. The Ivan the Great Bell Tower. The impressive 60 metre high tower was built between 1505 and 1508. The adjoining belfry was built 15 years later and contains some 20 bells. The biggest bell (the world’s largest no less) however was too big to remain in its place and sits to the rear of the tower with a huge crack in it. In recent years the the belfry has become home to a new high-tech exhibition which illustrates the history of the Kremlin’s changing architectural styles. It is also now possible to climb up the tower (that’s 137 steps to be exact) to admire the view over central Moscow and get a close up look at the bells. You must by a separate ticket for the Ivan’s Bell Tower excursion at the excursion office before you enter the Kremlin and you can only go up the tower at the time indicated on your ticket.
Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Admission 50-250Rbl.
St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) C-3, Red
Take a boat tour. A boat trip down the Moscow
river is hands down the best way to see the city and get a sense for its scale. Boats pass by the majority of Moscow biggest landmarks and in the summer with some tickets you can make a day of it and hop on and off as you wish.
Art and literature. For Russian art head straight to the Tretyakov Galleries. The older of the two buildings houses a stunning collection of medieval to nineteenth Century paintings, while the equally impressive collection at the modern building on Krymsky val covers Russian art through the 20th Century. The Pushkin Fine Arts Museum is the city’s largest collection of medieval, renaissance and early 20th Century European art and tucked in behind the building is the fantastic Roerich Museum filled with the Russian painter’s mystical works. Many of Russia’s best writers have been inspired by Moscow and the homes of Chekhov, Tolstoy, Mayakovsky and Bulgakov – to name but a few – have been preserved as museums. Enjoy the city’s parks. Moscow may be a bustling metropolis, but it also one of the greenest cities in Europe. In the south of the city you can enjoy the medieval architecture of the well cared for Kolomenskoye Museum Estate or the crumbling charm of Catherine the Great’s Tsaritsino. Stretching along the Moscow river Gorky Park and the Neskucnhy sad was always the people’s park and is especially loved by families, if your feet can take it the latter is also a good jumping point for a climb up the Sparrow Hills to enjoy a panoramic view over Moscow. To the north the stately palaces of Kuskovo and Arkhangelskoe offer a glimpse into how Moscow’s nobility used to live in the days before communism.
Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, closed Thu. Admission to the
Kremlin Cathedral Square (5 museums-cathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace) 100-350Rbl. Excursions 2,0002,500Rbl + admission. Ticket for Ivan the Great Bell Tower 500Rbl. Tickets for the Kremlin Armoury 700Rbl (seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30). All tickets must be bought at the ticket offices outside the Kremlin walls.
State History Museum C-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great, and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each individual hall complements its in-house exhibition, such as the Novgorod and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical tit bits. Like the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the Great’s. The elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There are English leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the second. There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost of 300Rbl. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 60-440Rbl. Guided tours for up to 15 people by prior arrangement. PAU moscow.inyourpocket.com
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
Danilov Monastery Danilovsky Val 22, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 14 80, www.msdm.ru. This classical monastery, named after its founder, Alexander Nevsky’s son Danil, has been in the news of late with the return of their original 18 church bells from Harvard in the US. The Soviets sold them off for scrap but a benevolent American, Charles Crane rescued them. The bells were recently returned due to the efforts (and cash no doubt) of Faberge egg rescuer, Viktor Vekselberg. Danilov Monastery was the last monastery to be closed under the Soviets and the first to be reopened under Gorbachev in 1983. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission free. Donskoy Monastery Donskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 952 49 01, www.donskoi.org. The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept monastery, originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the main entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you enter. Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of the Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. The adjoining cemetery is also a worthy historical site dating back to the 17th Century. Excursions can be organised around the walls and towers. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
Russia’s fascinating history
The red colonnaded building just beyond the statue of Pushkin on Tverskaya ul. is now known as the State Museum of Contemporary Russian History. On display are many of the objects from when it was called the Revolu tion Museum, including some unique original artifacts from this turbulent period. In a fascinating twist, the building was not originally built for this edifying purpose, but between 1831 and 1917 was home to the English Club, one of Russia’s first gentlemen’s clubs- proof that the expatriate life in Moscow is not the historical novelty we often assume it to be. The beauty of the original interiors has been restored in a series of rooms which show the Club’s intention to be a Temple of the Enlightenment, as images of the muses decorate the chandeliered ceilings. The Club was a place for members to dine, play cards and discuss the events of the day in an atmosphere of free-thinking not readily found elsewhere. The Club’s library held a number of foreign books and newspapers, whose distribution was often strictly controlled by the tsars. Card games were played in the ‘Infernal Room’, so named because the fates of many of the serfs owned by these powerful aristocrats were often decided here as they placed bets on their estates. The club was known by many literary giants of the day, including Tolstoy who described it in War and Peace: “The majority of those present were old, honored people with deep, self-assured faces, fat fingers, hard movements and voices.” Another regular visitor was the famous poet Pushkin, who was more than once banned from the club for non-payment! An exhibition of memorabilia related to the club in a second room displays pictures of its members, some of whom took part in the Decembrist uprising in 1825. The club suffered from financial difficulties towards the end of the century, and had to lend out parts of its premises to other businesses. During World War One, the rooms looking out over Tverskaya Street became a military hospital. The club was finally disbanded in 1917 to make way for the ‘Red Moscow’ exhibition, whose loud red and black poster is also on display here. These rooms, which for a century had been an aristocratic haunt, were now visited by the Muscovite proletariat for a revolutionary education. Today the museum is open to all who are interested in Russia’s fascinating history.
Churches and Monasteries
Andronikov Monastery Andronevskaya pl. 10,
MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www. rublev-museum.ru. Originally founded in 1320, this monastery is famous for its icon painting monk, Andrei Rublyev who lived and died here in the early 14th century. Rublyev is the poster boy of Russian icon painting having worked on the icons of the Kremlin’s Cathedral of Annunciation and other churches. Today there is the Cathedral of the Saviour, and the museum named after Rublyev is housed in the adjacent Chapel of St. Michael Archangel. It’s about half the size of Novodevichy and it has a quarter of its crowds. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed and last Fri of the month. Admission free.
Novodevichy Cemeter y Luzhnetsky proezd 2, MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com. This is the Who’s Who of Russia. Anyone who was anyone is here. Given the Russian adoration for statues and immense monuments, it is a fascinating place and hunting around for the famous graves is almost as much fun as actually finding them. Chekhov’s simple and modest memorial is in stark contrast to the many Soviet megaplinths. Notable graves include Stalin’s wife, Mayakovsky, Gogol, Eisenstein, Khrushchev and Yeltsin. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission free.
MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26, www.shm.ru. Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls. Q Open 09:00 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home. Buy your candles to the left of the entrance way, photos and souvenirs to the right. The walls are decorated with lists of battles and awards. Those who perished or were awarded in the war with Napoleon in 1812 are also inscribed once more upon the walls. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view from the collonade. As it is a working place of worship women are expected to cover their heads and everyone should dress conservatively. No cameras or mobile phones should be used. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00-18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call +7 495 637 28 47).
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour C-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15,
Novodevichy Monastery Novodevichy proezd 1,
History B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl.
State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian
Dva bileta, pazhalusta – Two tickets, please
moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2013
Moscow In Your Pocket
Radisson Royal River Cruise Museums
egatskaya 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over the Russia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. The museum’s frequent temporary exhibitions are also worth checking out. Q Open 10.00 - 18.00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00 Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 200Rbl.Guided tours at to 15 people 1,500Rbl.
Fyodor Shalyapin’s Memorial Estate B-2, Novinsky All-Russia Decorative Art Museum C-1, Ul. Delbul. 25, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 605 62 36/(+7) 499 255 98 64, www.shalyapin-museum.org. Fyodor Shalyapin’s name and voice rings out over Russian theatrical cultural history like no other - he is essentially the Anna Pavlova of the opera world. Finding fame in roles such as Boris Godunov and Don Quixote, he performed to immense acclaim across Europe, thanks partly to his participation in Diaghilev’s 1909 Russian Seasons. This 18th Century house which he had restored and made his Moscow home, is full of relics from the famous friends such as Rachmaninov and Levitan who met him here and stands as a beautiful example of early 20th Century style, full of exquisite bureaus, chaise lounges, silk wallpaper and even an old gramophone. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 150Rbl. UW
A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best ways to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off, we leave behind the Moscow International Business centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’. Across the river is the ‘other White House’, the house of the Russian government. A few minutes’ sailing takes us to the Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoy’s Kitty and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park. The silhouette of a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State University, the world’s tallest educational building and the ‘big sister’ of the seven. Passing Luzhniki Stadium, we reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky Park. Beyond this is the Central House of Artists, home to a branch of the Tretyakov gallery. At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour opposite. Looking at its imposing domes, it’s hard to believe that this was once a gigantic outdoor pool. On Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-coloured arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas church, is the House on the Embankment, built to house the Soviet elite. During the Purges nearly three hundred of its inhabitants were executed; it gained the nickname ‘Stalin’s Smile’. From the river we’ve got perfect views of the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it as we arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a millennia St Basil’s idiosyncratic domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something so beautiful ever again. Atop the Stalinist House on the Kotelnichesky Embankment, two windswept larger-than-life figures look out into the glorious Soviet future. We’ve come a long way from the shining towers of the Business Centre, almost all the way to Novospassky Monastery’s blue star-studded domes as we make our way back upriver.
Calligraphy Museum Park Sokolniki, 5y Luchevoy Pr.
2, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel: (+7) 495 728 77 58, www. calligraphy-museum.com. This small museum in Sokolniki Park takes visitors on a global journey of this little-publicised art and shows that it is still alive and well in the days of Times New Roman and Comic Sans. Words in themselves have long held an almost sacred place in cultures throughout the world, and there’s something very mesmerising about watching calligraphy masters at work in the museum’s video display. In this exhibition we see better-known examples of calligraphy from the bold brush strokes of Chinese characters to the ornate golden free-flowing threads of Arabic, as well as Old Church Slavonic icons and modern interpretations and more obscure scripts such as the curvy forms of Georgian and the neat rounded hills of Armenian letters. Commentaries from modern calligraphers accompany their works and give an insight into why the art of writing beautifully still holds such a fascination for them. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 150Rbl.
MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig. ru. The full comprehension of the GULAG is a discomforting experience to say the least and the lack of English will do little to prevent you from being thoroughly chilled by the tragic story this museum has to tell. There are three parts; a documentary part showing the repression of different groups such as the church and the kulak peasants. Artistic responses to the GULAG from ex-prisoners adorn the walls, entrance and staircase and there is a reproduction of a GULAG barracks, punishment cell and officers rooms downstairs. The fact that this part is sealed off and the guide has to escort you here adds sobriety and realism to the exhibit. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl. Guided tours for up to 20 people 300 - 600Rbl per person plus admission, should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 495 621 73 46.
GULAG History Museum D-1, Ul. Petrovka 16,
Pushkin Fine Arts Museum C-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12,
Cosmonautics Museum C-1, Pr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60, www.space-museum.ru. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of artworks relating to man’s obsession with conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew around the earth in. There’s also a café serving space food and some 3-D shows (for which you have to pay extra). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 350Rbl.
MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www. artsmuseum.ru. Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s art in the form of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. 1924 saw the first addition of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition.
Fun With Kids
Pikabolo Magic Kaleidoscope Exhibition Centre
(VVTs), pavilion No2, Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 985 765 51 41, www.pikabolo.ru. Lovers of vibrant geometric patterns will welcome a visit to the world of Pikabolo, home to the largest kaleidoscope in Europe. Equally worth gazing into is the smaller, beautifully handcrafted wooden kaleidoscope with its dense mosaic. The tiny collection of puzzles, puppets, and optical illusions may also bring some delight to the small folk in your group. And don’t forget that kaleidoscopes are good for both eyes and mind by helping reduce fatigue of the optic nerve and stimulating creative thinking. Try and see for yourself! Then move into the infinity room. Here, it’s completely open to imagination – wear something colourful and enjoy the spectacle. Q Open 10:00 – 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 – 20:00. Admission 200Rbl.
Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow A-3, Tarasa Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radisson-cruise.ru. Q It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Boats leave 13:00 - 21:00. Boats are sometimes hired out for private parties so check the departure times in advance.Tickets for adults 900Rbl, children 650Rbl, first class 2,000Rbl. AUKW Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com
USSR Museum All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs), pavilion No2, Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 765 51 44, www.museumussr.ru. Simple yet cheerful, a child-friendly museum for all about Soviet material culture. Short on floor space and drawn-out explanations (in Russian and English), the USSR Museum manages to pack in a strong collection of Soviet memorabilia: from arcade game machines to domestic electronics, household items, toys and games and movie posters. A reconstructed communal apartment puts the museum’s talent for arranging its collection in perspective. The real gems are for Soviet car and motorcycle enthusiasts: Pobeda (Victory), ZAZ-965, Muravey scooter trike and the “Ural” motorcycle, where you can watch an old car chase on film in the sidecar. For those too squeamish to visit the real thing, there’s a reconstruction of Lenin’s mausoleum. A great museum for children given the absence of security guards and glaring eyes. Be prepared for musical accompaniment. Photography permitted. QOpen 10:00 – 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 – 20:00. Admission 250Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com
Pikabolo Mirror Maze Exhibition Centre (VVTs), pavilion No2, Pr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 916 668 14 24, www.pikabolo.ru. If walking “blind” into glass walls sounds like fun to you on a rainy day at VDNKH, then step right up! Fun photo opportunities for people of all ages, so consider in advance how to maximise on the visual effects. There is hardly any danger of parents losing their children due to the narrow passages and limited capacity (approx. 10-15 people at any given time), so no need to fear. Located in the “grungy” rear of the Pavilion No. 2 building amidst other entertainment, cafés, and specialty shops. Not recommended for those with claustrophobic tendencies. Q Open 10:00 – 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 – 20:00. Admission 200Rbl. August - September 2013
Tchaikovsky and Moscow A-2, Kudrinskaya pl.
46/54, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 25 88/(+7) 495 691 15 14, www.glinka.museum. Dedicated to the life, times and music of the man who brought the world Swan Lake, Sleeping Beauty and the Nutcracker, the operas Eugene Onegin and The Queen of Spades and of course the 1812 Overture. It‘s kind of an endless list once you get going. This Moscow apartment where he lived briefly in the late nineteenth century is now home to a collection of photos and musical memorabilia, family photos, and Tchaikovsky’s devoted guides. The guide and the tour are provided free of charge but in Russian so if you don’t understand Russian, take along a translator. They do know more than you can read about not only about Tchaikovsky but the musical scene of Moscow at that time. Tchaikovsky’s various friendships are also enumerated here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 100Rbl. UW
Modern Art Centres
Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Based in three locations, this building is the main hub of the MMOMA and its great garden of witty sculptures by Tsereteli (Moscow’s contemporary art guardian and self-promoter) offers an impressive introduction to the contemporary Moscow art scene on the way in. The museum’s aim is to preserve Russia’s avant-garde tradition and they are constantly adding to their collection of Malevichs, Filonovs and the like. Moving closer to the present day the permanent collection also carries much non-conformist art from the late Soviet period, as well as new stars of the Russian art scene. Other exhibition halls at Ermolaevsky per 11 (metro Mayakovskaya), Tverskoy bul. 9 (Pushkinskaya), Gogolevsky bul. 10 (Kropotkinskaya). Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admission 150Rbl. Entrance may cost more for special exhibitions.
MMOMA (Moscow Museum of Modern Art) C-2,
City Sightseeing Bus Buses leave from 17 different stops in the city centre, tel. (+7) 495 227 79 96, www.hoponhopoff.ru. You can in theory catch the distinctive red double-decker City Sightseeing bus at any one of its 18 city centre stops and hop on and off it as you please within 24 hours of the time stamped on your ticket. The bus takes around one hour to circle the city centre. An audio guide is included in the ticket price which provides a few fun facts, historical tidbits and local legends along the way in English, Russian or German, while there are also plans to add another five foreign languages to the list. Buses leave each stop approximately every 20 minutes depending on the traffic situation. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Tickets: Aduits 600Rbl, Children (5-15 years old) and Students 500Rbl, Children (those under 5 years old) free. Free City Bus Tours C-2, main bus stop near
Metropol Hotel, MTeatralnaya, +7 916 564 4274, freemoscowbus.com. Getting to grips with Moscow can be a daunting experience for a first-time visitor, especially one who finds it tricky to read the Cyrillic alphabet. So, for a quick and painless introduction into the city’s key sights, why not sit back and let a free coach tour whet your appetite for life in the Russian capital? Starting in May of this year they’ve put on regular trips around the city center, whisking guests to key points of interest and showing them some of the city’s highlights with an English-speaking guide. It won’t stretch to getting you inside all of the places on the itinerary, many of which are museums with additional admission charges, but it will give newcomers a good introduction to what can sometimes feel like an overwhelming metropolis.
ogo 2, M Mendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 10 85, www.goslitmuz. ru. Dostoevsky is usually associated with St. Petersburg bu t in fact he grew up in Moscow. His father was posted to the city’s hospital for the poor and this small apartment, attached to the hospital, was given to him and his family. The austere rooms are demonstrative of Dostoevsky’s lower middle class upbringing and are carefully tended to by the Dostoevsky-loving museum staff. If you have the time they can philosophise about the great writer for hours. The second undecorated wing of the flat houses a collection of banned illustrations made for his books in the 1930s as well as the desk (filled with his notes), where he wrote the novel Brothers Karamazov. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Wed, Thu 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 100Rbl.
Dostoevsky Memorial Museum Ul. Dostoevsk-
Meteorites in Russia
MMAM (Moscow Multimedia Art Museum) B-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 22, www.mdf.ru. This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. A great addition to Moscow’s burgeoning contemporary art scene. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Admission 150-300Rbl.
Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 6, M Barrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, www. goslitmuz.ru. Chekhov never went out of favour even during the Soviet years. His museum opened here for the first time in 1953, and underwent a spring clean in 2003. The objects remain authentic, a little too authentic when you see the tiny metal bed he slept on. It was from this red castle-like house that he left to go on his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at that time the journey took around three months. It was also here that the music lover, who lived with his mother, brother Mikhail and sister Maria, received patients, continuing his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the personal dedication in his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions following the life of the great writer, a surprising number of photos and a display showing different dramatic productions of his plays around the world. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 100Rbl.
Chekhov Museum B-2,
um B-2, Ul. Mal. Nikitskaya 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru. Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau architects - Fyodor Schechtel - in 1900, the R yabushinsk y Mansion is most famous as the former home of writer Maxim Gorky. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy. Q Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free. Lev Tolstoy Memorial Estate in Khamovniki Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21,
Gorky Memorial Muse-
One of the unexpected risks of being the world’s largest country is, apparently, that you’ve got more chance than anyone else of being hit by meteorites. If you’re wondering which of the many kinds of space rock that is, we can reveal that it’s the name for a piece of space debris that makes it through the atmosphere and lands on earth; they’re usually pretty tiny but when large ones do appear they’re sure to make the news. The world’s largest recorded meteorite event above Siberia in 1908 convinced many eyewitnesses the world was ending as it exploded with about 1000 times more energy than the nuclear bomb dropped on Hiroshima. Luckily it turned out not to be the apocalypse, and the world has gone on turning and meteorites gone on falling on the great expanses of Russia...
On the 12th of February 1947 the Sikhote-Alin mountains in the east of Russia were illuminated by a 26-metre-wide meteorite that appeared brighter than the sun. Its arrival was heralded by a deafening roar which could be heard for hundreds of kilometres around, and the 32km smoke trail it left behind hung in the sky for hours afterwards. The most famous image of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite is a painting by an artist named Medvedev, who happened to be sat at his window starting a sketch when the meteorite fell and was able to paint it straight away.
Moscow Free Tours C-3, Ul. Nikolskaya 4/5, MPloshchad Revolitsii, (+7) 495 222 34 66, www. moscowfreetour.com. Available every day at 10:45am, Moscow Free Tours offer a great way to see the city on a budget whilst finding out interesting facts and anecdotes about Moscow and its history. The tour guides are passionate and personal and are really good at engaging with those doing the tours. They really want you to have a good time because then you’re more likely to tip! The website is clearly set up and the booking process simple. The tours cover many of the main attractions Moscow, and did I mention it’s absolutely free?! Just don’t forget to book beforehand. Moscow In Your Pocket
MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246 94 44, www.tolstoymuseum.ru. The house where Tolstoy and his family lived after leaving his family estate and moving to Moscow in the 1881 has been kept in pristine condition. You almost expect them to come inside and sit down to dinner or Sofia Tolstoya to serve tea from the samovar or to see Leo stomping up the staircase to his study to write a few more pages of War and Peace. This place makes clear how the family spent their time, including displays and exhibits of the shoes that Tolstoy made himself. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission foreigners 60 - 200Rbl.
More recently, on February 15th 2013, a ten-thousandtonne meteorite exploded in the air above the Siberian city of Chelyabinsk on a cold winter morning. Locals reported feeling an intense heat from it whilst windows all over the city smashed, causing a hurry to block them up again against the bitter -20°C cold. Nobody had managed to see the meteorite coming, which scientists suggest is because it changed course when it bounced off an asteroid and was propelled towards Earth. Of course a meteorite’s never just a meteorite - that would be boring - and theories about its origins abounded. We can be pretty sure, however, that it really was a meteorite, given the many fragments of it that were hunted down over the weeks following the impact before the next snowfall. If you’re interested in getting your hands one some of them head to the Art Salon on Starosadsky (Starosadky per. 10), where they’ve got fragments of the Sikhote-Alin and Chelyabinsk meteorites for sale.
August - September 2013
Pushkin Memorial flat B-3, Ul. Arbat 53, MSmolenskaya, tel: (+7) 499 241 22 46, www.pushkinmuseum.ru. Given Pushkin’s unfortunate demise in a duel fighting for his wife’s honour, it seems fitting that the house where he spent his honeymoon is now a memorial museum. Moving into the Arbat street house at the beginning of February, he even held his stag night here. In a bid to engender some of the atmosphere of the time, the rooms are filled with portraits of his contemporaries and letters although not a lot of Pushkin’s belongings remain in situ apart from his writing desk. The desk with his ink stand with a negro boy standing between two gold cotton bails is the star feature. English texts are provided to give a little extra clarity. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 20 - 120Rbl.
Gifts and Souvenirs
MChistye Prudy, Turgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 625 46 56/(+7) 495 624 71 02. This spectacular landmark building covered in Chinese roofs, dragons and a riot of Oriental decoration is just as elaborately decorated on the inside too. They’ve been selling tea and coffee here for over 120 years and little has changed in the presentation save for the hairstyles and clothes of the servers. The best of the East is all on offer from the spicy coffee grinds of the middle to the aromatic tea leaves of the far. It’s worth coming just to have a look (and a smell). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
Chainy Dom Perlova D-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 19,
There are dozens of traditional souvenirs you can bring back with you from Russia. Top everyone’s list is usually a Russian doll, but there are a lot more other things worth spending your money on too.
Prosto Tak D-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel.
+7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting selection of t-shirts, badges and bags that make more off-beat souvenirs than the usual things to be found around Red Square. Also at Gnezgikovsky per. 12/27 (metro Pushkinskaya) and ul. Sadovaya-Chernogryazskaya 13/3 bldg. 3 (Kurskaya). QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. AKW
Russian dolls are the quintessential Russian souvenir. Usually painted with the cute faces of a Russian girl or stylised family, you can also get them painted with dictators of the world, former US presidents or even just left plain to paint yourself. Prices will usually depend on the number of dolls and the intricacy and range of colours of the design.
Russian lacquer boxes are some of the finest Russian handicrafts still produced in Russia. Creating the distinctive shiny black layer using many coats of lacquer and then painting on the front minute scenes from Russian fairytales and folklore, requires very skilled masters. Usually the real ones feel a lot heavy than regular painted wooden boxes and should have the signature of the artist both sides of the lid.
Evropeisky Shopping Centre А-4, Pl. Kievskogo The Mikhail Bulgakov Museum
Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www. europe-tc.ru. Initially the layout can be disorienting but after you’ve adjusted it is well possible that you could spend whole days here. Quality restaurants and bars, saunas and health treatments, and all the European brand shops that gave the centre its very name. Bliss! The perfect hideout when you’re in need of that injection of Western culture. QOpen 10:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. AK
Birch wood crafts
B-1 Bol. Sadovaya 10, flat 50, MMayakovskaya, www. bulgakovmuseum.ru. Bulgakov’s Moscow flat where he wrote most of his works became one of the unofficial alternative artistic centres of Moscow during the perestroika era and the stairwell and the flat itself was constantly plastered in graffiti and unusual drawings. Nowadays ‘the odd flat’ has been cleaned up and turned into a small museum where you can catch occasional concerts and discussion groups as well as see some of Bulgakov’s original belongings. What would have been the Variety Theatre (where Satan stages his magic show) can be found nearby in the garden at Bolshaya Sadovaya 16. Note that the original theatre building underwent a complete remodeling since the novel was written.
The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair.
Lotte Plaza A-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel: (+7) 495 641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Korean group Lotte made a strategic move when choosing this spot for this 'deluxe class' (in their words) shopping centre, a short walk to both the New and Old Arbat. Its seven floors offer all the expensive handbags and shoes you could dream up, whilst in the basement is high-end, highly priced supermarket Azbuka Vkusa selling a large range of tasty goods and all the food items it can still be a struggle to find in Russia. It also has a number of restaurants in a suitably glamourous style, some with roof terraces. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Metropolis shopping center Leningradskoye shosse 16/4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www. metropolis-center.ru. The western style mall to beat all other western style malls that are dotted around across Moscow. What makes this one so great? It’s filled with high street brands, a massive supermarket, has a bowling alley, pool hall and cinema on the top floor and, best of all, it is right next to the metro. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Okhotny Ryad С-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. If you can find your way around in here, you’ve made it in this town. Confusion central, this is a spawling place that has everything you need - it just takes a long time to find it! Maybe that is part of the plan so that all customers stay and shop longer. There is a food court on the ground floor with a range of ready food options from sushi to fried chicken to sandwiches, perfect for when you’ve done the Kremlin and want a snack. There’s also a small Sedmoi Kontinent supermarket on the ground floor (entrance from Alexandrovsky gardens). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AULKW
kaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. This famous bookstore has one of the best foreign language selections in the city. On the second floor most European languages are covered, with French, English and German books making a particularly strong presence, and there’s also a limited selection of Chinese and Japanese literature. They also stock a lot of maps, Russian textbooks and Russian fairytales for kids. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW
Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus С-2, Ul. Myasnits-
Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time
Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2013
Moscow is Russia’s business and financial capital and countless businessmen have lost and made millions in this town.
EXPAT AND lifestyle
Just as living costs might be high in Moscow, so is liveability. This is one of the most popular and rewarding expat destinations. If you’re looking to expand your network or are looking for services that remind you of home, take a look here. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at [email protected]
Accountants and Consultants
Deloitte A-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. KPMG Presnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
Looking for your nearest embassy? We have all the addresses and phone numbers listed at russia.inyourpocket.com
The Expat Experience
Interview with the General manager of Mamaison All-Suites Spa Hotel Pokrovka – Mr. Neiser Vit Please tell us something about yourself. I’m 46 years old. I studied hospitality management in the Czech Republic and Australia, and worked as a General Manager in several hotels in the Czech Republic and other countries for more than 16 years. I joined the Mamaison Hotels and Residences 11 years ago. Before coming to Moscow I worked as a General Manager in the Mamaison Imperial hotel in Ostrava and the Mamaison Andrassy hotel in Budapest. What makes Moscow an exciting city to live and work in? When I first came to Moscow, it was winter, but the sun shone so brightly, and everything was so beautiful, that I was amazed by this city, by its climate, architecture, and culture. Moscow is cosmopolitan, and develops and changes so fast, with new opportunities appearing every day. How and where do you like to spend your free time? I prefer to spend my free time with my children. We like skating in Gorky and Sokolniki parks. These parks are great places for relaxing in Moscow. What would you recommend first-time visitors to Moscow to definitely do, and why? First of all I would recommend taking cruise along the Moskva River; then taking a car and driving along Kutuzovsky prospect at night, because there are less traffic jams, and you can simply enjoy the views of Moscow, Moscow city, Victory Park, the Triumphal arch of Moscow, and other beautiful buildings on the famous prospect. I would also recommend the Red October place with its contemporary exhibitions, and of course the natural parks, such as Serebryany Bor. What are your favourite restaurants, bars, clubs and why? My favourite restaurant to go with my friends is “Ragout”, because the food is of a very good quality, and atmosphere is relaxing. The “Strelka” bar in the Red October place has an amazing view of the city and the river. For dinner with my family, I like the “Strana kotoroy net” restaurant.
Tax and Legal Services
Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services C-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203B, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Tax and Legal Services specialisists. Deals with all aspects of reporting, accounting, tax compliance and company registration, full cycle legislations and legal translations, expat and family paperworks and fiduciary services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Ernst and Young D-3, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bld. 1,
495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com.
Hairdressers and beauty salons
Expat Salon В-2, Maly Patriarshy per. 3, MTverskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 650 37 47, www.expatsalon.ru. Probably one of few places in Moscow where you won’t walk out with a haircut you didn’t ask for. And why is that? Well, they speak English. The full range of features on offer make their services read something like an elaborate menu, from a standard hair cut in one of their state-of-the-art massage chairs to your usual mani-pedi and Thai massage. Thankfully they offer helpful, free consultations so you can decide what you need beforehand. To make the experience extra comfortable they offer complimentary drinks as well as ipads and portable DVD players to clients, so you can relax whilst the professionals do their thing. Bookings for all services are essential. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. PTAW
Business Clubs and assosiations
noproletarskaya 16, bldg. 3, entr. 8, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce E-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg.4b, MChistie Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.finruscc.fi.
Translating and Interpreting
Elan Languages Business centre Petrovsky, ul. Nizhnaya 14, bldg. 1, office 28, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 57 34, www.elanlanguages.ru. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N
Association of European Businesses A-1, Ul. Kras-
Russian-German Chamber of Commerce (DeutschRussische Auslandshandelskammer ) C-5, 1-y Ka-
Zeleny pr. 66A, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com. English day school for kids aged 3 all the way up to 18. They follow the English curriculum and offer IGCSEs and A-levels and preparation for studying in the UK. The main focus of the school is on languages, art, music, IT and sport. The school works hard towards organising engaging after-school activities too like drama clubs and school trips. There is also a second primary school (ages 3-11) located in west Moscow at Molodogvardeyskaya ul. 9, metro Kuntsevskaya. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
vdw.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. The American Chamber of Commerce B-1, Ul.
zachy per.5, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www.
The English International School (NEI Magister)
Medical and Dental Clinics
American Medical Centres D-1, Prospekt Mira, 26,
bldg. 6, entr. from Grokholsky per., MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 933 77 00, www.amcenter.ru. Q Open 24hrs. A European Medical Center В-2, Spiridonievsky per. 5, bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel: (+7) 495 933 66 55, www. emcmos.ru. QOpen 24hrs. A
Dolgorukovskaya 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The Moscow Irish Business Club , www.moscowirishclub.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce C-1, Ul. Tverskaya 16/2, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bld. 2, MTeatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www.usdentalcare.com. Well-established and long-respected American Boardcertified dentists and hygienists. They speak English and Russian, have a full range of general, specialised and children’s services and extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The clinic itself is spotless, high-tech and very centrally located. Direct billing and Corporate membership available. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. PAW
US Dental Care C-2,
Russian for Expats
”Pervy blin komom”, its literal meaning “the first pancake is a lump”, relates to one’s first attempt at something, which, according to the idiom, is a certain failure. For example, if you have just begun learning Russian, your Russian friends might say “Ne perezhivay, pervy blin komom”, which means that everyone makes mistakes at the beginning whilst learning. Some say that the expression was originally “pervy blin komam”, which meant “the first pancake for the bears”. In ancient times the bear had a special place in Slavic cultures, which was why the bears should have the first pancake. Liden & Denz A-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg.1, entr. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www.lidenz.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Pervy blin komom – the first pancake is a lump
Fryday in Moscow
Looking for a chance to unwind and kick off the weekend with some like-minded company? Sure, Moscow is full of great bars, but it’s not always easy to dive into the city’s nightlife on your own – which is where FryDays comes in. The idea is simple: those interested in an informal gathering over a drink or two, make arrangements via the group’s Facebook page and pick out a different bar every few weeks. The Moscow edition is one of several all over Europe, and the original FryDays founders – a pair of expat Swedes in Kiev. For more details, see www.facebook. com/fryday.moscow/info.
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
EXPAT AND Lifestyle
35 years IWC Moscow
The International Women’s Club of Moscow celebrates its 35th anniversary this year, so Moscow in Your Pocket thought that it was a great moment to look at some of the highlights of their history and their current activities. Supporting charitable activities has become a major aim of the IWC since the late 80’s when a fundraising event was organized for the earthquake in Armenia. Today, the IWC Charities Group provides emergency care and long-term support for children in need and people under the poverty level by contributing to more than 30 different projects.
Buying Train Tickets
For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train station. If you don‘t speak Russian, it is a good idea to find out the number of the train you want. This is where the Russian Railways website www.rzd.ru can come in handy. If you can read Russian or get a friend to help, you can view timetables, buy tickets online and then just print them out at the ticket machines in the station. Their English version doesn’t allow purchases yet. Other options are to buy through a ticket or travel agency in Moscow. Remember that if you are buying a ticket for anything other than a local train you will need to show your passport details, so that they can be printed on the ticket.
35 years of history
The club was established by four founders in 1978, to bring women together for friendship and cultural exchange. Over the past 35 years, the IWC has grown to over 700 current members from almost 100 different countries. Until the 80’s, membership consisted mainly of diplomats’ spouses, whereas from the 90’s onwards the wives of businessmen on assignments in Moscow have also joined. Recently, more and more female business professionals who come to Russia in their own right find their way to the Club as well. During the early years, members had to rely on each other’s help to learn where to buy products or to find a good doctor. Expat life in Moscow has improved a lot since then, but nevertheless, newcomers still appreciate advice from their fellow members about reasonably priced stores, original version movie theaters and good restaurants. It’s safe to say that some things never change.
35 years of events
Each year the IWC organizes two big events to raise both funds and awareness for the projects supported by the Charities Group. Since 1988, the annual Winter Bazaar, where national products from different countries are sold, has become the largest IWC event, with over 4000 guests attending in 2012. The support of the diplomatic community has allowed the IWC to organize more special events over the years. In recent years, the opening meeting of the IWC season has been held at Spaso House, the residence of the American Ambassador. The protocol section of UPDK (Direction for services to the diplomatic corps) has also hosted gatherings in their offices. But perhaps the most unique event is the annual Embassies of the World Dinner and Ball that was founded in 1996. Guests are invited to have dinner in one of the embassies or Ambassadors’ residences in Moscow, truly a once in a lifetime experience, followed by an evening of dancing and entertainment –all for a good cause. Although the importance of charity fundraising cannot be underestimated, most IWC activities are organized for the benefit of the members. Socially, the Club was a resounding success from the beginning. The IWC still organizes wellattended General Meetings, usually on the 3rd Thursday of the month, which provide a great opportunity for members to socialize and to enjoy art, music and food from different cultures. As popular as they were 35 years ago, the IWC Interest Groups cover a broad range of activities including art, cooking, history and culture, languages, spiritual welfare and sports, and there is also a playgroup for members’ children.
IWC Highlights 2013/2014
The September General Meeting is the official opening of the 2013/2014 season. During this meeting you can become a member of the IWC, sign up for the Interest Groups and learn more about the Club and its activities. The Winter Bazaar is not only the largest fundraising event of the IWC, it also is the ideal opportunity to discover products from different countries, to sample dishes from all over the world and to do some serious shopping in a unique international ambiance. For the 18th year in a row, the IWC Embassies of the World Dinner and Ball will be one of the most dazzling events on the Moscow calendar. This year’s theme will be Dance & Romance around the World, a guarantee for an unforgettable evening! Join the IWC as a member in the 2013/2014 season and participate inthe festive events that will be organized to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the Club. If you want more information about the IWC, visit one of the Coffee Mornings, informal meetings that take place twice a month between 10am and noon in Le Pain Quotidien on Ulitsa Arbat 32, or send an email to [email protected]
. More details about these and other upcoming events of the IWC can be found on www.iwcmoscow.ru.
Railway information hotline, www.rzd.ru, (+7) 800 775 00 00. (Russian only) Belorussky Station A-1, MBelorusskaya, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru. Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Kazansky Station E-1, MKomsomolskaya, kazanskiy. railclient.ru. Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond. Kievsky Station A-4, MKievskaya, kievskiy.railclient. ru. As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Vnukovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Kursky Station E-3, MKurskaya, kursky-vokzal.ru Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station (first floor). Leningradsky Station E-1, MKomsomolskaya, leningradskiy.railclient.ru Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg. Paveletsky Station D-5, M Paveletskaya, paveleckiy. railclient.ru. This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train. Rizhsky Station MRizhskaya, rijskiy.railclient.ru. You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia. Yaroslavsky Station E-1 M Komsomolskaya, yaroslavskiy.railclient.ru. To the Golden Ring and beyond - all the way to Vladivostok.
Moscow’s system of buses, trams and trolleybuses, as well as its world-famous metro, can now all be used with just one united ticket that is valid for all forms of transport and which can be bought in the metro ticket offices. It’s definitely worth getting a multi-journey ticket (you can get 11 journeys for 300Rbl) as it both saves money and is simple and convenient. If you need to buy single journeys you can get them once on the bus or tram and it costs 30Rbl. Make sure you get on the bus/tram/ trolleybus from the front so you can pass the ticket-operated turnstile. The metro is fast and efficient and is the second busiest in the world after Tokyo - you’ll rarely have to wait long for a train. Operating hours are from 05:30/06:00 until 01:00. To enter, swipe the metro card then go through (the barriers will hit you if you don’t swipe the card first!) Plan your trip in advance on www.metroway.ru (interactive) or www.mosmetro.ru.
The powers that be are now hard at work trying to better regulate the taxi industry and make the service better for you the passenger. However, as can be true anywhere in the world, taxi drivers can sometimes be unscrupulous and over charge you so to avoid conflicts over taxi meters etc try to agree on a price before hand. It is also a good idea to book a taxi in advance to ensure you get a reasonable price. ‘Taxi’ is a term to be used loosely in Russia, with many locals still preferring to flag down ordinary cars as part of an unofficial informal taxi service. Since 2011 the unofficial taxi service has been made illegal and drivers can be fined for ferrying people around the city for cash, although due to a continuing lack of official taxis in the city the practice still thrives. To foreigners travelling in an unmarked car may seem unsafe and you certainly should exercise caution if you decide to opt for the Lada experience. Stand by the road and stick out your arm - not your thumb. Be cautious, trust your instincts and always agree a price in advance. Such drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners - a journey within the city centre should usually cost anything between 250 and 500Rbl. Try to avoid using very large denominations and asking for change. If you are looking to pick up a taxi at the train station, head to the RZD taxi booth. If travelling to the airport 1,500Rbl is a perfectly reasonable fare. For shorter trips around the city centre expect to pay 300 - 500Rbl.
Avis Russia Car Rental, tel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz A-1, 1-ya Brestskaya ul., 34, M Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 08 89, www.hertz.ru. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
35 years – time to celebrate
The 35th anniversary of the largest women’s club in Moscow will not go unnoticed: the IWC plans to organize special events this season and many regular meetings will get an extra festive touch. In order not to ruin the surprise, details are not yet disclosed, but rumor has it that members might be receiving birthday presents and that they should prepare for a picnic party in the second half of the season!
Where is the…? Is it far? Right/left Straight ahead Ticket office Open/closed Entrance/exit Push/pull Ticket Return (ticket) Entrance forbidden No smoking Gdye…? Eta daleko? Napravo/nalyevo Pryamo Kassa Otkryto/zakryto Где…? Это далеко? Направо/налево Прямо Касса Открыто/ закрыто Vkhod/Vykhod Вход/выход Ot sebya/k sebe От себя/к себе Bilyet Билет Tuda i obratno Туда и обратно Vkhod Вход запрещен zapreshchon Ne kurit Не курить
Taxi Shanson tel. (+7) 495 925 75 13, Formula Taxi tel. (+7) 495 777 57 77
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
1905 Goda ul. A-1/2 A Akademika Sakharova pr. D-1/2 Alexandra Nevskogo ul. А/B-1 Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. E-4 Apakova pr. C-4 Arbat ul. B-3 Armyansky per. D-2 B Bakhrushina ul. D-5 Balchug ul. D-3/4 Bernikovskaya nab. E-3 Bersenevskaya nab. C-4 Bobrov per. D-2 Bogoyavlensky per. C/D-3 Bol. Afanasyevsky per. B-3/4 Bol. Balkansky per. D-1 Bol. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Bol. Dmitrovka ul. C-2 Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. A-4 Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. A-1/2 Bol. Karetny per. C-1 Bol. Kazenny per. E-2 Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. E-2 Bol. Kiselny per. C/D-2 Bol. Kislovsky per. C-3 Bol. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Bol. Kozlovsky per. E-2 Bol. Levshinsky per. B-4 Bol. Lubyanka ul. D-2 Bol. Molchanovka ul. B-3 Bol. Nikitskaya ul. B/C-3 Bol. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Bol. Palashevsky per. B-2 Bol. Patriarshy per. B-2 Bol. Polyanka ul. C-4/5 Bol. Sadovaya ul. B-1/2 Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. C/D-5 Bol. Spasskaya ul. E-1 Bol. Staromonetny per. C-4 Bol. Strochenovsky per. D-5 Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. D-1 Bol. Sukharevsky per. D-1 Bol. Tatarskaya ul. D-4/5 Bol. Tatarsky per. D-5 Bol. Tishinsky per. A-1 Bol. Vlasyevsky per. B-4 Bol. Yakimanka ul. C-5 Bol. Znamensky per. B-3/4 Bolotnaya nab. C-4 Bolotnaya pl. C-4 Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) A-3/4 Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) A-3 Brestskaya ul. (1ya) A/B-1 Brestskaya ul. (2ya) A/B-1 Brodnikov per. C-4/5 Butikovsky per. B-4 C Chayanova ul. B-1 Chistoprudny bul. D/E-2 Chisty per. B-4 D Delegatskaya ul. C-1 Dobryninsky per. (1y) C-5 Dokuchaev per. D-1 Dolgorukovskaya ul. B-1 Dubininskaya ul. D-5 Durasovsky per. E-3 Durova ul. C-1 E Ermolaevsky per. B-2 Eropkinsky per. B-4 F Fadeeva ul. B-1 Filippovsky per. B-3 Furmanny per. E-2 G Gagarinsky per. B-4 Gazetny per. C-2/3 Gilyarovskogo ul. D-1 Glazovsky per. A/B-4 Gogolevsky bul. B-3/4 Golikovsky per. D-4 Golutvinsky per. (1y) C-4 Goncharnaya nab. E-4 Goncharnaya ul. E-4 Goncharny per. (2y) E-4 Gorokhovsky per. E-2 Granatny per. B-2 Grokholsky per. D-1 Gusyatnikov per. D-2 I Ilinka ul. C-3 Ipatyevsky per. D-3 K Kadashevskaya nab. C-4 Kadashevsky per. (1y) C-4 Kalanchevskaya ul. E-1 Kalashny per. B-3 Kazachy per. (1y) C-5 Kazachy per. (2y) C-5 Kazakova ul. E-2 Kazansky per. C-5 Kazarmeny per. E-3 Khilkov per. B-4 Khlebny per. B-3 Khokhlovsky per. D/E-3 Khvostov per. (1y) C-5 Kievskaya ul. A-4 Klimentovsky per. D-4 Kolpachny per. D-2/3 Kompozitorskaya ul. A/B-3 Komsomolskaya pl. E-1 Komsomolsky pr. F-6 Konyushkovskaya ul. A-2/3 Koptelsky per. (1y) D-1 Korobeynikov per. B-4 Korovy Val ul. C-5 Kosmodamianskaya nab. D/E-4 Kostyansky per. D-1 Kotelnicheskaya nab. D/E-4 Kotelnichesky per. (1y) D-4 Kozitsky per. C-2 Krasina ul. A/B-1, B-2 Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) C-3 Krasnaya presnya ul. A-2 Krasnopresnenskaya nab. A-3 Krasnoproletarskaya ul. B-1 Krasnoprudnaya ul. E-1 Kremlevskaya nab. C-3 Krivokolenny per. D-2 Kropotkinsky per. B-4 Krutitsky per. (3y) E-5 Krutitskaya nab. E-5 Krymskay nab. B-5 Krymsky proezd B-5 Krymsky Val. B/C-5 Kursovoy per. B/C-4 Kutuzovsky pr. A-3 Kuznetsky most ul. C/D-2 L Lavrsky per. C-1 Lavrushinsky per. C-4 Leninsky pr. F-6 Leontievsky per. B-2 Lesnaya ul. A-1 Lubyansky proezd D-2 Lyalin per. E-2/3 M Mal. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Mal. Dmitrovka ul. B-1/2 Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. A-2 Mal. Karetny per. C-1 Mal. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Mal. Nikitskaya ul. B-2 Mal. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Mal. Polyanka ul. C-5 Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. D-1 Mal. Yakimanka ul. C-4 Mal. Znamensky per. B/C-3 Manezhnaya pl. C-3 Manezhnaya ul. C-3 Marksistskaya ul. E-4 Maronovsky per. C-5 Maroseyka ul. D-2/3 Mashkova ul. E-2
Merzlyakovsky per. B-3 Milyutinsky per. D-2 Miusskaya pl. B-1 Mohovaya ul. C-3 Molochny per. B-4 Monetchikovsky per. (2y) D-5 Monetchikovsky per. (3y) D-5 Monetchikovsky per. (5y) D-5 Monetchikovsky per. (6y) D-5 Moskvoretskaya nab. D-3 Myasnitskaya ul. D-2 Mytnaya ul. C-5 N Neglinnaya ul. C-2 Nikitsky bul. B-3 Nikitsky per. C-2/3 Nikoloyamskaya ul. E-3/4 Nikolskaya ul. C-2/3 Nikolsky per. D-3 Nizhnyaya Krasnokholmskaya ul. E-4/5 Nizhnyaya Krasnoselskaya ul. E-1 Novaya Basmannaya ul. E-1 Novaya pl. D-2 Novinsky bul. A-2/3 Novokrymsky pr. B-5 Novokuznetskaya ul. D-4/5 Novokuznetsky per. (1y) D-5 Novokuznetsky per. (2y) D-5 Novoryazanskaya ul. E-1 Novy Arbat ul. A/B-3 O Obydensky per. (2y) B-4 Okhotny ryad ul. C-2/3 Olimpiysky pr. C-1 Ostozhenka ul. B-4/5 Ovchinnikovskaya nab. D-4 Ozerkovskaya nab. D-4 Ozerkovsky per. D-4 P Paveletskaya pl. D-5 Petrovka ul. C-2 Petrovsky bul. C-1/2 Petrovsky per. C-2 Pyzhevsky per. C-4 Pl. Nikitskie Vorota B-2 Plotnikov per. B-3 Plyushchikha ul. A-4 Podkolokolny per. E-3 Podsosensky per. E-3 Pogorelsky per. C-5 Pokrovka ul. D/E-2 Pokrovsky bul. E-3 Pomerantsev per. B-4 Posledny per. D-1 Potapovsky per. D-2 Povarskaya ul. B-2/3 Pozharsky per. B-4 Prechistenskaya nab. C-4 Prechistensky per. B-4 Presnensky val ul. A-1/2 Prospekt Mira D-1 Pushechnaya ul. C/D-2 Pushkinskaya nab. B-5 Pushkinskaya pl. C-2 Pyatnitskaya ul. D-4 Pevchesky per. D-3 R Raushskaya nab. D-3 Romanov per. C-3 Rozhdestvenka ul. C-2 Rozhdestvensky bul. C/D-2 Runovsky per. D-4 Rybny per. C-3 S Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. B/C-1 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. A/B-2 Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. E-1/2 Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul. B-1 Sadovnicheskaya ul. D-3/4 Sadovnichesky proezd D-3 Samotyochnaya ul. C-1 Serebryanicheskaya nab. E-3 Shchepkina ul. D-1 Sivtsev Vrazhek per. B-3 Skatertny per. B-2/3 Smolensky bul. A-4 Smolenskaya ul. A-4 Sofiyskaya nab. C-3 Soymonovsky proezd B-4 Solyanka ul. D-3 Spasonalivkovsky per. (1y) C-5 Spiridonovka ul. B-2 Spiridonyevsky per. B-2 Sretenka ul. D-1 Sretensky bul. C-1 Stanislavskogo ul. C-2 Staraya pl. C-3 Starokonyushenny per. B-3/4 Staromonetny per. C-4 Starosadsky per. D-2/3 Stary Tolmachevsky per. D-4 Stoleshnikov per. C-2 Stolyarny per. A-2 Strastnoy bul. C-1/2 Sushchevskaya ul. B-1 Sytinsky per. B-2 T Tarasa Shevchenko nab. A-3 Tatarskaya ul. D-5 Teatralny proezd C-2 Teterinsky per. E-4 Triumfalnaya pl. B-1 Trubnaya ul. C-1 Trubnikovsky per. A/B-3 Tryokhprudny per. B-2 Tsvetnoy bul. C-1 Tverskaya ul. B-1/2 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (1ya) A/B-1 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (2ya) A/B-1 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. (3ya) A/B-1 Tverskoy bul. B -2 U Usacheva ul. F-6 Ustyinsky pr. D-3/4 V Valovaya ul. D-5 Varsonofyevsky per. C/D-2 Varvarka ul. C-3 Vasilyevsky spusk pl. D-3 Vasilyevskaya ul. A/B-1 Vasnetsova per. C-1 Verkhnyaya Radishchevskaya ul. E-4 Verkhnyaya Syromyatnicheskaya ul. E-3 Volhonka ul. C-3/4 Vorontsovo pole E-3 Vorontsovskaya ul. E-4/5 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-3 Voznesensky per. B-2 Vspolny per. B-2 Y Yakimanskaya nab. C-4 Yakimansky proezd C-4 Yauzsky bul. E-3 Z Zemlyanoy Val ul. E-2/3/4 Zhitnaya ul. C-5 Zhukovskogo ul. E-2 Znamenka ul. B/C-3 Zoologicheskaya ul. A-1/2 Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya
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Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2013
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod, converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic alphabet. 10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462. 17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar. 1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which becomes the new Russian capital in 1712 1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great marries her way into the Russian royal family and launches a program of legislative and educational reform. 1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil. 1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs. 1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German. 1917 – 1924: Following the February and October Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad. 1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts until 1941. 1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in 1943. Germany surrenders in 1945. 1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him. 1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space. 1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics. 1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness). 1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and privatization shaking the country. 1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil exports. 2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.
Russia is undisputedly the world’s biggest country. Its sheer size guarantees that no other country even comes in at a close second. While most visitors primarily make visits to the two capitals – Moscow and St. Petersburg – the country has much more to offer. Bordering 16 countries, it is 17,075,400 square kilometres large with a population of 143 million and a territory that encompasses nine time zones and 83 regions, so one naturally can sometimes feel overwhelmed by the sheer choice of sites on offer in such an enormous country. But, it goes without saying that while many of the most exciting events in any given country occur in their capital cities, its soul often lies elsewhere. This is especially true in Russia. Russia features ancient towns filled with architectural ensembles and churches completing visually fantastic landscapes, quaint and calm towns located on the banks of enormous rivers, and enough natural beauty – forests, lakes, and mountains – to satisfy anyone looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of city life. While much of the major investment – and attention – in the last decade has poured into Moscow and St. Petersburg, capital has trickled into the provinces as well at a considerable clip. Although the level of development in provincial towns is still not on pace with the largest cities, but that is also part of the adventure. It is here that one can experience how average Russians live and imagine the past, present, and future of their country. Spring is a wondrous time to make a visit as the snow packs melt, the sun comes out of its slumber, and the plethora of holidays guarantee that there will be plenty of special events and celebrations on offer. In each subsequent issue we will select a few destinations within striking distance of the city’s capitals that make excellent detours into the beauty and wonder of provincial Russia. Some can be enjoyed as one-day getaways, while others are full weekend trips. We would argue that no trip to Russia is fully complete without a visit to a provincial city, whether it be one of the wonders of the Golden Ring cities, or one of the ancient Russian settlements, such as Pskov or Veliky Novgorod. It was in these towns that the idea of Russia was first enunciated and enacted. Of course, a wider selection of cities can be found on our website. In this issue we have selected many interesting cities. St. Petersburg, of course, needs no introduction as the cultural capital of Russia. The other cities are: Veliky Novgorod, one of Russia’s early trading settlements and Nizhny Novgorod, Russia’s fifth largest city located on the banks of the mighty Volga river. Two other important and old cities on the same Volga river you can read about here are Samara and Yaroslavl. Last, but certainly not least, we included Sochi, the host city of the Winter Olympics of 2014. In St. Petersburg please look for our print guide in hotels or check us out online and download our free iPhone app. at: www.inyourpocket.com/russia/st-petersburg Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year. For a more comprehensive guide look out for our St. Petersburg In Your Pocket print guide or check out the online version at st_petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Churches and Cathedrals
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Q The fortress is open 06:00 - 22:00. Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00, closed Wed. Entrance to fortress is free. ULK Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00 Closed Wed. Admission 50-250Rbl. Kazan Cathedral Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Daily services 07:00, 10:00 and 18:00. Admission to the church is free. Guided tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 570 45 28. St. Isaac’s Cathedral Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Q Open 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Wed. Colonnade open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 250-350Rbl. Colonnade 150-300Rbl.
Peter and Paul Fortress (State Museum of history of St. Petersburg) Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,
The State Hermitage Museum
With over three million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva river, the Hermitage is quite simply one of the greatest museums in the world. Give yourself plenty of time to take it all in as you wind your way through the opulent state rooms of the Winter Palace. The museum’s vast art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt room filled with works by the old master is another must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse and the gang are all up on the top floor while the ‘small Hermitage’ wing contains a priceless collection of Greek, Roman, Persian and Egyptian artefacts.
Luxury Train to St. Petersburg
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hungry? Lucky you! Every cabin has a pile of complimentary snacks such as bread, pate and cheese, fruits, yoghurts and waffles for when you get the midnight munchies. Hot breakfast and coffee is brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:20 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru
Hermitage Dvor tsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from
Dvortsovaya pl.), M Admiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl.
Ballet and Opera
St. Petersburg has a very strong ballet and opera tradition and is home to one of the world’s most celebrated theatres, the Mariinsky Theatre, headed by superstar maestro Valery Gergiev. If you can’t get a ticket for the Mariinsky then head instead for one of the performances at the highly respected Mikhailovsky Theatre.
Mariinsky Theatre Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. Q AdmisMikhailovsky Theatre Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Q Ticket
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. sion 300-6,000Rbl.
Grand Philharmonic Hall Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2,
office: daily 11:00 - 19:00, break 15:00 - 16:00.
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
Getting to St. Petersburg
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis, and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.
Buddha-Bar Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar. ru. Q Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW Idiot Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 16 75, www.idiot-spb.com. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW Koleso Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 21 25. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW Levin Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 612 19 66, www.levins.me. QOpen 12:00 24:00. €€. PTAGSW Marcelli’s Ul. Vosstaniya 15, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 702 80 10, www.marcellis.ru.Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PTABSW NEP Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. QOpen 12:00 01:00, Mon, Tue 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEBSW Palkin Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEBW Romeo‘s Bar and Kitchen Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Tandoor Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTALEGSW
During World War II when the city was known as Leningrad its people suffered the worst siege in modern history. In the Leningrad Blockade Museum you can learn about how the blokadniki struggled against the desperate cold and starvation while at the Rumyantsev house you can see the original heart-breaking diary of the young siege victim Tanya Savicheva. At the Piskaryevskoye cemetery you can pay your respects to the millions who died as a result of the siege, 489,000 of whom are buried here.
Blockade Museum D-2, Solyanoy per. 9, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 75 47, blokadamus.ru. Piskaryevskoye Memorial Cemetery Pr. Nepokorennykh 72, MPl. Muzhestva, tel. (+7) 812 297 57 16, pmemorial.ru. Rumyantsev Mansion C-2, Angliskaya nab. 44, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 44, www.spbmuseum.ru.
AZIMUT Hotel St. Petersburg C-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, M Baltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. This hotel is right on the banks of the Fontanka river, with many of the rooms overlooking the impressive Troitsky Cathedral. More than 1000 rooms are available over 18 floors with 318 of them having been recently fully renovated into SMART Deluxe rooms. This is the tallest building in this part of the city and shortly (in November) the new Sky Bar will be re-opened with the most amazing panoramic views of St. Petersburg, supported with a modern design and conference spaces. They have a wonderful breakfast and the restaurant serves, among others, great pizza’s as well. Q1037 rooms (Room prices start at 2,400Rbl). HALGKW hhhh
Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 5000, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St.Petersburg Airport Startovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. hhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www. crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. hhhh
Galeria Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything you would expect from your modern shopping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area for the young and young-atheart.QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTALK
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via
D-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. hhhhh Grand Hotel Europe D-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. hhhhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www. accorhotels.com/5679. hhhh
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
Eating and drinking
theatre), tel. (+7) 8162 987 000, www.casa-del-mar. ru. Getting out to this trendy boat café/bar/restaurant/club concept is quite a mission and the view through the boat’s windows is nothing to get excited about. Better stick to the internal view of over-dressed rich locals sipping on cocktails and dining on the usual European/sushi menu favourites. Q Open Sun - Thur 12:00 - 02:00, Fri - Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTALESW
Casa del Mar Ul. Velikaya 14a (on the river behind the
Greensleeves Irish Pub Ul. Velikaya 5/2, tel. (+7) 8162 775 557. This tiny little box of an Irish pub, the pride and joy of jolly owner Yuri is a breath of fresh air (metaphorically speaking of course - it’s still very smokey in there) in quiet Veliky Novgorod. If you thought that Russians didn’t understand the concept of a friendly small town pub experience, come here and prepare to be surprised. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. €. PALES Khoroshye lyudi Ul. Meretskova-Volosova 1/1, tel. (+7) 8162 73 08 79, www.gonicepeople.ru. Once you’ve been to this place you won’t want to eat anywhere else - it’s just streets ahead of the other more pedestrian dining options in sleepy Novgorod. Choose from a fancy restaurant area with open kitchen, the bar or family friendly cafe to settle in and don’t worry, you can see the Kremlin from wherever you choose. The menu is a pick and mix European selection of salads and grilled meats and fish. Staff are lovely. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €. PW Napoli Studencheskaya ul. 21/43, tel. (+7) 8162 636 307, www.napoli-restaurant.ru. Ok so you probably didn’t come to Veliky Novgorod to eat Italian food, but trust us this is one of the best dining options in town. The staff are polite and helpful, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is neither touristy nor provincial. As well as good pastas and wines, they also have a real stone oven in which they bake their excellent fresh bread and pizzas. It’s a bit far out so you will probably need to go there by taxi or bus 4, 8, 8a or 20. Very convenient for those staying in the Park Inn hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALEBSW Yurievskoe Podvorie Yurievskoe shosse 6a, tel. (+7)
8162 946 066, www.tk-podvorie.ru. Seated inside what looks like a fairytale Russian wooden hut, you’ll be served excellent blini, pelmeni (dumplings) and borsch by angelic looking wait staff in traditional costume. The place is very popular with tour groups, which brings down the rustic aroma a little, but they do offer a lot of Novgorodian specialities such as local soup recipes and ‘sbiten’ (a hot drink made of various herbs and spices) which are definitely worth making the effort for. A very good value place to eat before or after visiting the Vitoslavlitsy museum, Yuriev monastery and surrounding countryside. Also has a mini-hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAULEGBSW
Founded in 859, Veliky or Great Novgorod is generally touted as ‘the birthplace of Russia’. It is by modern standards a very small town. After its heyday in the Middle Ages, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv took over as the leading cities in Russian culture and Novgorod became somewhat a backwater. This is no bad thing however as it has meant that much of the town and surrounding countryside has been saved from the blight of industrialisation and communist construction. Veliky Novgorod is now a world heritage listed site and alongside its famous Kremlin there are also more than 50 churches and monasteries in the region to be explored.
Krasnaya Izba Tourist Information Office
The lovely girls at Krasnaya Izba can provide you with advice on just about everything to do in Novgorod. They have a 24hrs. hotline that you can call if you still find that you are constantly lost. Tel. (+7) 8162 998 686. Central office at Sennaya pl. 5. www.visitnovgorod.ru
The heart of Novgorod has always been the Kremlin, which is known locally by its ancient name ‘Detinets’. The first records of fortifications on this site date back to 1044, although back then most of the Kremlin was probably made of wood. The current walls and towers of the Kremlin were completed between 1484 and 1490, after the previous ones had collapsed into the river. In recent years, the whole of the fortifications, as well as most of the buildings inside the Kremlin walls, have been completely restored. Inside the Kremlin the most noteworthy sights include the impressive St. Sophia Cathedral, the Novgorod history museum and the huge Millennium of Russia monument. If you are not afraid of heights it’s also worth climbing up the Kukui tower for a view over the town and surrounding countryside. QEntrance to the Kremlin is free as is entrance to the Cathedral. Entrance to the museum and tower costs extra.
Veliky Novgorod Kremlin
It is well worth making the short journey out of town to visit the open-air Vitoslavitsy wooden architecture museum and the neighbouring Yurievsky monastery which has an enviable position right on the banks of the Ilmen lake. QTo get there take bus number 7 or 7a and get off at the monastery. The journey should take about 20 minutes. Entrance to the monastery is free.
Where to stay
Park Inn Veliky Novgorod Ul. Studencheskaya 2, tel. (+7) 816 294 09 10, www.parkinn.com/hotelvelikynovgorod. Novgorod’s only four star hotel is run by the Park Inn brand and it’s a definite step above the rest. Rooms are spacious, staff meet the professional Park Inn standard and the Beer restaurant down in the basement is one of the only good places to eat in this sleepy town and there’s also an ‘art nightclub’. You can also enjoy the large SPA zone with indoor pool, Russian banya, Turkish bath, Finnish and herbal saunas. Access to all this is included in the price as well as to the children’s entertainment centre. To get there from the city centre take bus No4, 8a or 20. Q225 rooms (Prices start at 4,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. PTHA6FLGKDCW hhhh Volkhov Hotel Ul. Predtechenskaya 24, tel. (+7) 816 222 55 05, www.hotel-volkhov.ru. A great option for a short sightseeing trip or longer business trip as it’s one of the most central hotels in town and just 5 minutes walk from the Kremlin. The rooms, although a little frilly, look far more cared for than many other hotels in Novgorod and the whole place has a lot more of an international feel than you’d expect in a small Russian town. There’s plenty of facilities including one of the only saunas in town. Their restaurant is one of the best in town and on weekends has live music. Q129 rooms (Room prices start at 2,050Rbl). Extra bed 850Rbl. PHALGKDCW hhh moscow.inyourpocket.com
There is just one daily long distance train to Veliky Novgorod from Moscow. It leaves from Leningradsky station at 21:50 arriving in Veliky Novgorod at 06:10. Trains return to Moscow at 21:20 arriving at 05:30.
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
Sitting at the point where the mighty Volga river meets the smaller Kotorsol, Yaroslavl is a prosperous town dating back to 1010, which is rightly often referred to as the capital of the Golden Ring. Famed for its beautiful river side promenade, medieval churches and frescoes, Yaroslavl boasts a UNESCO protected city centre, filled with 18th and 19th Century Russian architecture, such as huge, ancient gates and towers. In addition to its pristine architectural sights, Yaroslavl also has a fine art museum and a wealth of historic treasures on show in the main monastery. Perfect for a relaxing city break, Yaroslavl can easily be seen in a weekend, while if you have an extra day or two, it’s a good starting point for a trip to the picturesque river ports of Kostroma and Plyos, which are just a 1,5hr bus ride away.
Samara is one of Russia’s forgotten gems, often overlooked by westerners. Located on the Volga River, it has been a critical trade route and strategic location throughout history and played a crucial role in modern Russia. It was the home of famous Russian figures such as the writer Maxim Gorky, revolutionary leader Vladimir Lenin and space pioneer Sergey Korolev. During World War II, many factories and industries were evacuated to Samara, which served as the second capital to the besieged Soviet Union, and it became a centre for industry and culture. Consequently, many designs for late model World War II Soviet aircraft were developed in Samara, as was the Soviet Union’s space rocket research programme headed by Sergey Korolev. Samara’s aerospace industry is one of the most advanced in the world. For much of the Cold War, Samara was a closed city, isolated from Western influence, and because of that, it offers a different insight into Russian culture and society. It also became the refuge for Guy Burgess and Donald Maclean, who were part of the infamous “Cambridge Five” spy ring that provided information to the Soviet government during WWII. Samara is a modern and developed Russian city. Museums, classical music, modern art galleries, and restaurants offer tourist a startling array of culture, history and experience. The night life is dynamic, playing various genres of music, from classic rock to contemporary pop.
Alabin Historical Museum Leninskaya ul. 142, tel.
(+7) 846 333 70 15, www.alabin.ru. The Alabin Historical Museum has a collection of 180,000 items relating to the full spectrum of Russian history and natural sciences. It includes archaeological, mineralogical, zoological, botanical and ethnographic collections, and on display are, among other things, coin collections, rare books and weaponry from Russia, Western Europe and the Middle East. The museum also has a display relating to the history of Samara (Kuibyshev) during WWII. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Ibis Yaroslavl Center Pervomaysky per. 2a, tel. (+7) 4852 59 29 00, www.ibishotel.com. Opened in October 2011, the new Ibis brings much needed quality budget accommodation to Yaroslavl. The building is brand new and all the rooms have been fixed up to the Ibis brand standard. The location is perfect. Dead in the city centre, but situated just off the busiest streets to ensure a quiet night‘s sleep. Q177 rooms (Room prices start at 2,100Rbl). Breakfast not included (380Rbl). PTHA6ULGBKW hhh
267 43 75. The Kuznetsov Centre for the History of Aviation Engines has the world‘s largest collection of Russian aircraft engines. The collection dates to the establishment of Samara State Aero-Space University founded in 1942. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. tel. (+7) 846 333 68 58. Located in a late 19th century merchant mansion the museum preserves items of the period of Lenin‘s stay in Samara in 1890-93. It portrays the atmosphere and the material life of an intellectual family of this period. The museum also has a zone for temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Pl. Kuibysheva 1, tel. (+7) 846 332 25 09, www. opera-samara.net. This is a world class facility with quality artists and musicians offering ballet, theatre, operetta and concert programmes with a wide repertoire. The recently refurbished building is now attracting artists from Russia and abroad.
Kuznetsov Centre for the History of Aviation Engines Moskovskoe shosse 34, bldg 14, tel. (+7) 846
Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Sobor) Kotorolnaya nab. 2a, www.yareparhia.ru. The first wooden cathedral was built here in 1215, destroyed by fire it was then rebuilt in the 16th Century and was completely destroyed again in the 20th Century by the Soviets. In 2005 it was decided to rebuild the cathedral once again and in an astonishing feat of construction the huge building was completed in just five years.
Lenin’s House Museum Leninskaya ul. 131-135,
Ibis Samara Novo-Sadovaya ul. 160D, bldg. 3, MRossiyskaya, tel. (+7) 846 339 68 50, www.ibishotel. com. A short walk through a park from the banks of the impressive Volga River will bring you to this Ibis Hotel. Not far from the city centre, it is an ideal place to start exploring Samara, while being assured of the well-known service and quality of this Accor hotel. Throughout the hotel you can use free Wi-Fi, and all rooms have air conditioning. This is a very welcome addition to Samara. Q304 rooms (Room prices start at 2,500Rbl). Extra bed 1,000Rbl. Breakfast (380Rbl) not included. PTHA6LGKW
Samara Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet
Sovetskaya pl. 7. The interiors here are easily some of the most bright and beautiful you will see in all of Russia. Frescoes, with a distinct blue which is typical to the Golden Ring region, cover every possible surface, soaring all over the walls and roofs and telling well known stories from the Bible. The church‘s amazing acoustics also add to the enchanting historic feeling of the place. Q Open 08:30 - 19:30.
Church of St. Elijiah the Prophet (Ilya Prorok)
lenskaya pl. 25, tel. (+7) 4852 30 38 69, www.yarmp. yar.ru. Yaroslavl’s most important monastery dates back to the 13th Century. All but destroyed during a fire in 1501, the monastery as you see it today was mostly built in the 16th Century. For centuries it was one of the biggest monasteries in Russia and by 1764 it owned vast amounts of land and had some 14,000 serfs. Almost every Tsar in history visited the monastery and it was behind its formidable walls that Minin and Pozharsky prepared their citizen’s army before sailing down the Volga to help defeat the Poles.
Spaso-Preobrazhensky (Transfiguration of the Saviour) monastery museum reserve Bogoyav-
Monument to our Lady of Kazan Kotoroslnaya nab.
to Samara from Moscow. The journey takes between 15 and 23 hours depending on which train you take. By plane: There are 12 flights a day from Moscow to Samara. The flights take around 1 hour 40 minutes.
By Train: There are more than 10 trains a day travelling
Stalin’s bunker Ul. Frunze 167, tel. (+7) 846 333 35 71. When Germany invaded the Soviet Union in 1941 they advanced so rapidly that by 15 October 1941 their forces were only 16 km from the Moscow Kremlin. The Soviet Government decided to evacuate to Samara (known as Kuibyshev from 1935 to 1990). Consequently a bunker was prepared for Stalin in Samara. The bunker was a precise copy of Stalin‘s Moscow bunker and was completed at a rapid pace, being ready on 1 November 1942. The top secret facility was hermetically sealed and located 35 m underground. It was designed to be fully autonomous for five whole days in event of bombing raids and gas attacks. The bunker used the first air reusing system in the Soviet Union and had a large store of fresh food and water with two escape exits. The bunker now houses an exhibition on World War II. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, closed Sat, Sun. Admission 40 - 80Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com
26 (in front of the Our Saviour and Transfiguration monastery). This modern bell tower in front of the monastery was placed here in 1997 to commemorate the place where Minin and Pozhakrsky and their assembled army set off to oust the Poles from Russia in 1612. Now famous due its place on the 1,000 Rouble note it has become a popular spot for Russian tourists and wedding parties to take photos.
Volzhskaya Naberezhnaya (Volga Embankment).
Walking along the tree-lined river embankments is the favourite past time of the locals at any time of the year and the view of the Volga on one side and the many historical buildings on the other is delightful. Along the way you will pass dozens of (mostly 16th Century) churches, as well as the spit (strelka) which juts out at the point where two rivers meet. In the summer there are dancing fountains on the strelka. Further along the Kotorsol river side of the embankment there is a large beach and a rickety amusement park. The whole embankment route is kilometers long - and fortunately there are numerous cafes to rest en route.
Yaroslavl is a four hour train ride from Moscow and although there are many trains a day which leave Moscow and pass through Yaroslavl on their way to the Urals and Siberia, it is still wise to book your tickets a few days in advance. Trains to Yaroslavl usually leave from Yaroslavsky station (metro Komsomolskaya).
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
Teremki Landyshevaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 918 915 38 02, www.teremki-sochi.ru. Staying in these wooden houses, which can accommodate either 4 or 6 people, is a pleasure. The owners are friendly and know what hospitality is (they speak English!). Located in the northern Mamayka district, it’s a 15 minute bus drive from Sochi’s train station (when there are no traffic jams). Q House for rent from 5,000Rbl depending on house type andf the amount of guests. 5 days minimum. PTLDCW Tulip Inn Rosa Khutor Hotel Krasnaya Polyana, Estosadok, Rosa Khutor Alpine Ski Resort, tel. (+7) 862 243 00 00, www.tulipinnrosakhutor.com. Tulip Inn, unusually in Russia, manages to bat above its official ranking; for a three-star hotel it delivers service closer to four-star, and the helpful, obliging and multi-lingual staff do an excellent job in keeping guests happy. It also has, by reputation, the best bar in Rosa Khutor - although, that said, it is still a fairly basic hotel bar. Part of an international chain, the hotel wears its Dutch influences lightly, with the Amsterdam restaurant offering a mixture of local and European cuisine. Room rates typically start around 3600 rubles (85 Euros) a night. The company is planning to open a second hotel on-site under its Golden Tulip (4*) branding in time for the Winter Olympics. Q148 rooms (Room prices start st 3,800Rbl). PTA6U� FLGKDwW
Ski Resort Krasnaya Polyana
Covered with palm trees and blessed with a subtropical climate, Sochi is one of the best places to stay in Russia especially if you like warm climates. Furthermore, the Black Sea city is the host of the Winter Olympics in 2014. However, foreigners should be aware that Sochi is still not used to flocks of foreign tourists. It is mainly Russians, and citizens of former Soviet republics, who populate the beaches and explore the Caucasus Mountains. With ten thousand residents, a small expat community is working hard to prepare Sochi for the Olympics. During summer temperatures in Sochi vary between 25 and 30 degrees Celsius. For example, in the first week of May this year, the In Your Pocket staff enjoyed a temperature of 23 degrees. The winters are mild: by the coast the temperatures are around 5-10 degrees, or even higher. In the mountains, where the ski resorts are located, temperatures are much lower in winter, and there you can enjoy a good ski holiday. Often there is snow and ice until May. However, mild winters, with a huge shortage of snow, can also happen.
Train or plane? A quick or slow journey? If you choose the Russian railway, make sure your train will travel along the 145km long Black Sea coast during the day, preferably in the morning. It is then that you will almost certainly spot dolphins swimming in the sea, whilst you have breakfast in your carriage. This is an amazing sight, as we can say from experience. By train: At least 3 trains per day travel from Moscow to Sochi. In summer the number increases to 10 per day. The trains leave from different train stations (al though most leave from Kazansk y station) so check carefully. The fastest train – which is also the most expensive and luxurious - is the Sochi Premium which brings you to Sochi in exactly 24 hours. Other trains will take up to 38 hours. From St. Petersburg there are 3 direct trains to Sochi during summer, and one in winter. They leave from Mosvkovsky station or Ladozhsky station. The journey from St. Petersburg takes between 37 and 57 hours. By plane: Russian airlines, such as Aeroflot, S7 and Transaero offer daily flights to Sochi. Flights from Moscow take around 2 hours 20 minutes, and flights from St. Petersburg take approximately 3 hours 30 minutes.
45km away from the Black Sea lies Krasnaya Polyana, a famous ski resort located at a height of 560 meters above sea level. The mountain tops have modern ski-facilities which reach heights of more than 2300 meters. Krasnaya Polyana will host the Olympic skiing, snowboarding and ski-jumping. Sochi and its surrounding region finally became part of Russia 150 years ago, in 1864, after decades of war with the Turkish (Ottoman) empire and tribes living in the Caucasus highlands. The royal nobility loved the region, with its healthy water springs, and the first Russian sanatoriums were built along the coast. After the Russian revolution in 1917, the working class received rights for holidays, promoted by Lenin. Sochi became the favourite holiday destination of Stalin and he visited the Black Sea for a few weeks every year. You can visit his dacha in Sochi, which is located near many other Soviet sightseeing spots, such as the Lenin mosaic. In the 1960s, Sochi, and the whole Black Sea coast, was developed in to one big holiday resort. Forbidden to travel abroad, 50 million Russians went to Sochi every year, and the region was known by then as the Russian Riviera. With the fall of the Soviet Union, and the possibility of cheap holidays to Egypt or Spain, Sochi decayed in the 1990’s and the region’s economy suffered hard. When Putin, a sport enthusiast and big fan of skiing at Sochi’s Krasnaya Polyana, became the president of Russia in 2000, the resurrection and face-lift of Sochi began. In 2007 the city won the bid to stage the Winter Olympics in 2014, and so far 50 billion Euros has been invested in new facilities, sport stadiums and high-speed railways.
Zhemchuzhina Hotel Complex Chernomorskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 862 266 11 88, www.zhem.ru. Its name means pearl, and this giant one was inherited from the Soviet Union, but its appearance doesn’t live up to its name. The plus side is that the beach is within walking distance. Q956 rooms (Room prices start at 5,300Rbl). PTA6UFL� GKDCwW
www.sochicatering.com. This is the best place for food, according to foreigners who frequently visit or live in Sochi. This French-owned restaurant overlooks the harbour, has outdoor tables, and the menu of seafood and grilled meats are irresistible.QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs.. €€. PTASW
Brigantina Neserbskaya ul. 3, tel. (+7) 918 608 71 11,
Sochi has plenty of hotels, although many are under construction, especially in the city centre. The city and its region have a long tradition of locals offering private rooms, complete apartments and B&Bs for low prices. This was even allowed during Soviet times, and many Sochi citizens made a living out of it. However, if you don’t understand Russian, it will be hard to find them on the internet.
Chaika Ul. Voikova 1, tel. (+7) 862 241 81 64. The old port is going through a renovation and you can now dine and sip cappuccino in the former classic-style Sea Terminal. The Moscow prices are worth paying to experience the splendid view over the Black Sea and its port from the outdoor terrace. Don’t forget to visit Chaika’s toilet to get an inside look at the port building.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW Tinkoff Primorskaya ul. 19, tel. (+7) 862 225 52 02,
www.tinkof.ru. This Russian famous brewery restaurant has opened a three-storey hang-out at the beach - with excellent views over the Black Sea. Here you can watch sports or listen to live music on the top floor terrace, while enjoying food and drinks. This is an excellent place to pass days and nights. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PALVESW 266 10 99, www.vkvartal-sochi.ru. According to locals, this is the best place in town to tuck in to Caucasian food, and we were not disappointed. This huge place offers all the wellknown dishes; the ones unknown to the Caucasian kitchen, as well as the more addictive ones: khachapuri (cheese bread), shashliks (kebabs), lobio (kidney beans with onions and spices) and much more. There is also live music!QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW
Sochi’s summer charms have been the stuff of legend for generations of Soviet holidaymakers – but the challenge for 2014 has been to transform those beaches and sanatoriums into a year-round resort with top notch ski facilities. That process has put the name of Krasnaya Polyana (Red Meadow) firmly on the world’s sporting map. The once unassuming town lies on the slower slopes of the Caucasus mountains, about 60km from Sochi’s airport, set amid magnificent scenery. It’s a long way south, so the ski runs are high up on those slopes – a network of cable cars stretches its tentacles out of the Rosa Khutor resort complex and whisks skiers through a 20-minute botany class, starting in damp deciduous woodland before emerging into sparkling, snowy coniferous forest. During the ski season (relatively brief, from late December to April, but staff say the last two years have seen snow well into April) it can be a breathtaking transformation; in summer the whole region is home to walkers, hikers and other lovers of the great outdoors. In the valley of the Mzymta river, Rosa Khutor is establishing itself as a resort with an alpine accent. Its cluster of hotels has a European look to it, while the town square’s slightly Dutch architecture perhaps reflects the role of the Golden Tulip chain in developing the site. Off-piste entertainment is mostly confined to hotel bars, although there is a small ice-rink and a scattering of bars and restaurants available. A regular bus route (N o105) connects the resort with Krasnaya Polyana proper, the Aeroexpress terminal for trains to the airport, and downtown Sochi back on the coast. This autumn, the high-speed train will have daily services from Adler train station directly to the Krasnaya Polyana ski resort. The new railway is a fabulous route through the mountains.
Try this freshly squeezed juice upon arrival in Sochi to boost your energy. You will see it being sold everywhere, at the local markets, and even along the beaches. Special juicing machines have been made to crush the pomegranates (you can buy one of these machines for 8000rbl or 200 Euros). Full of antioxidants, the fruit’s red blood is a blessing for tongue and soul. At the main market they even sell a version with alcohol, a kind of pomegranate wine.
Grand hotel & SPA Rodina Vinogradnaya ul. 33, tel. (+7) (862) 253 90 00, www.grandhotelrodina.ru. At around 1000 Euros per night, this former sanatorium is the most expensive place to stay in Sochi. Complete with a great spa, it is bad for your wallet, but good for relaxation! Here you will meet Moscow’s upper class. Indeed, it is very luxurious, and you will even have your own private Black Sea beach. Q40 rooms (Room prices start at 37,000Rbl). PHA6ULGKDCSwW moscow.inyourpocket.com
Vostochny Kvartal Primorskaya ul. 7, tel. (+7) 862
Moscow In Your Pocket
August - September 2013
It may not have Moscow’s Red Square or St. Petersburg’s Winter Palace, but Nizhny Novgorod still has some pretty fascinating places to visit. Nizhny’s small but ecclectic collection of museums and art galleries has something for everyone, and if you find yourself wanting more, there are plenty of interesting places to visit outside the city too. Check out more online at nizhny-novgorod.inyourpocket.com.
The Kremlin, tel. (+7) 831 422 10 80, www.ngiamz.ru. Like any good Kremlin, Nizhny’s red brick edifice overlooking the winding Volga would once have struck fear into the hearts of the baddies du jour. Even today, as it appears around the river bend to travellers arriving by boat, it is an impressive structure. Unlike Moscow’s famous Kremlin it’s no fortress and the public can wander at will through its territories. It currently houses municipal government centres, two galleries, a church and a war memorial, as well as small museums in some of the towers. But once, when cities were built on a different scale, it encircled the whole of Nizhny Novgorod and (on the whole) kept them safe from the scary world of medieval Russia. The original structure was made from wood, but the ill-advised combination of open fires and a wooden city came to a somewhat inevitable conclusion when it burnt down in 1513. It was then sensibly decided to make a stone version which when it was completed looked much as it does today. And that means: a two kilometre wall, four metres thick, thirteen towers and chock full of artillery points - not something you want to get on the wrong side of. The wrong side, in fact, was the Khanate of Kazan, nowadays just the next city along the Volga, back then locked in a bloody and prolonged argument with Moscow. Nizhny’s convenient position halfway between the two meant that it became Moscow’s ‘watch-city’, a title that came with no small risk. It suffered its fair share of attacks and sieges over the years, but proved pretty much invincible. This could be thanks to the Kremlin, or it could be thanks to its fearsome inhabitants, as legend has it. With the fall of Kazan, the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin lost its strategic importance and fell gradually into disrepair. A number of facelifts over the present decade have helped return it to something like its former glory. Nowadays you can stroll around on its grass, or take a walk inside its towering walls and enjoy the view. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission from 60Rbl.
Gorky Hostel Bol. Pokrovskaya ul. 5/6, tel. (+7) 831 439 09 00, www.gorkiy-hostel.ru/en. Q (Room prices start at 490Rbl). PW Hostel Bugrov Ul. Sovetskaya 20, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 831 416 14 68, www.bugrovhostel.ru/en/. Q (Room prices start at 400Rbl). PW Hostel Naberezhny Nizhne-Volzhskaya nab. 7/2, tel. (+7) 831 230 13 15, www.bereg-hostel.ru/en/. Q (Room prices start at 350Rbl).
Eating and drinking
Bocconcino Alekseevskaya ul. 10/16 (in Lobachevsky Plaza shopping centre), tel. (+7) 831 296 55 75, www. bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want to - the dough is magic: thin crispy and light. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Russia, e.g. the bone and cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy. The toppings are fresh and full of flavour. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW Tiffani Verkhnevolzhskaya nab. 8, tel. (+7) 831 419
41 01, www.tiffanibar.ru. You can’t say ‘Nizhny Novgorod’ without ‘Volga’ and this is one of the best places from which to enjoy Nizhny’s enviable views of Russia’s national river. The restaurant itself makes the most of this, with a plush crescent of seating offering a panorama of the Volga and countryside beyond. Fresh seafood, simply prepared, continues the aquatic theme, though be reassured, it’s not actually sourced from the Volga’s murky waters; in fact it’s fresh from their aquarium. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW
By Plane: There are several flights every day leaving
from all three of Moscow’s airports; they take just over an hour and prices start from around 3,000Rbl. From St. Petersburg there are typically two flights per day that take up to two hours and cost upwards of 3,500Rbl.
Hotels and Hostels
Grand Hotel Oka Premium (+7) 831 425 94 23, www.en.hoteloka.ru. Q Room prices start at 4,800Rbl. PW hhhh Ibis Nizhny Novgorod (+7) 831 233 11 20, www.ibis. com. Modern and comfortable, as one would expect from the Ibis chain, and only a short walk to the centre. Q Room prices start at 2,900Rbl. PW hhh Moscow In Your Pocket
By Train: Trains typically take between four and eight hours and usually leave from Kursksky Vokzal in Moscow. The Sapsan train that connects Moscow and St. Petersburg at high speed also extends to Nizhny Novgorod, stopping at Vladimir along the way, and takes just under four hours to make the journey (from 1,082Rbl). It’ll set you back a bit but is the fastest and most convenient way to make it to Nizhny. One more new option is the Lastochka (Swallow) train which runs once a day in each direction, leaving Moscow at 14:15 and reaching the Volga city four hours later (850Rbl). Next fastest is the Burevestnik (from 330Rbl) train which is a little cheaper and takes 4h40mins. moscow.inyourpocket.com