Moscow In Your Pocket Dec'14/Jan'15

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Moscow
December 2014 – January 2015

The Bolshoi
and beyond

Moscow’s theatre
highlights
More than
10 years
in Russia!

inyourpocket.com
N°36

Compliments
of the season
Where to see
in the New Year

Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

In the News

5

Arrival & Getting Around

6

Public transport

City Basics

8

Language

9

Culture & Events 10
Concerts 10
Show for kids
11
Exhibitions 13
Russian icons
14

Features

What to see
37
Moscow Theatre life 17
The Kremlin
37
Winter holidays in Moscow 20
Churches and monasteries
38
Bogdarnya 36
Ride an icebreacker
39
Pskov 43
Museums 39
Where to eat

Artistic places
Parks and gardens

41
42

Russian cuisine
Receipt from the chef
Sunday brunch

24
25
26
29

Interview with concierge

50

Nightlife

31

Shopping
Russian winter souvenirs
Shopping centres

51
51
53

Business directory

54

Dance and drink the night away

Where to stay 47

Expat & Lifestyle 55
The Expat Experience

Maps & Index

56

Metro map
City map
Street index

59
60
64

St. Petersburg

65

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www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

3

Foreword

In the News

The weathermen, who of course are never wrong, say that
we can expect a proper Russian winter in the capital this
year. Let’s hope so, because manic Moscow transforms into a
peaceful winter fairytale as soon as ‘Ded Moroz’ (Father Frost)
is in town. Winter is a season that Muscovites both love and
hate: there are (even) more traffic jams, the streets and pavements turn brown from the melting snow (known colloquially as ‘kasha’, or porridge) and your nose will almost fall off,
or at least feel that way. However, there is nothing to beat a
walk through the snow-covered streets and parks with the
white stuff crunching under your shoes and Moscow’s golden cupolas shining out against a sharp blue sky. The snow
may give you the impression that the city is quieter than
usual, but Moscow never sleeps, least of all now. According
to many locals winter is the capital’s most dynamic season,
with plenty to do for young and old alike. As you will read in
our Winter Holiday feature, you can find ice rinks in almost
every corner of Moscow, and you can even put your skis on
if that’s your thing.
For the culture munchers among you, Moscow’s winter is
chock-full of adventure, and in our theatre feature on page 17
you can find out where to see The Nutcracker, the Russian classic without which your winter experience here would not be
complete. Moscow’s winter wonderland has a lot to offer for
children too, not least in the city’s many parks, where you’ll find
the so called ‘gorki’ (hills), purpose-built for repeated testing of
the age-old gravity/snow/sledge equation. Aside from the
museums and theatres in the centre, we strongly recommend
that you explore what winter life looks like outside the city.
Arkhangelskoe park and state museum-estate is a must-visit at
the weekend, and if you really want some R&R, take yourself off
to Bogdarnya (see page 36) to explore the picturesque countryside on Moscow’s doorstep. Although Russians traditionally
celebrate Christmas in the night from January 6th to 7th, there
will be no lack of Christmas spirit here around December 24th.
The capital’s hotels have some rather splendid Christmas and
New Year offers (see page 23), so there’s no excuse to miss out
on your tree, turkey and trimmings.
Wabke Waaijer, Russia In Your Pocket.

Celebration of Life
E S S E N TI A L

Moscow In Your Pocket
C I TY G U I D E S
founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket.
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A.
tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,
General Director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected]
[email protected], russia.inyourpocket.com
General Manager Chris Gilbert, [email protected]
Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, [email protected]
Researcher Wabke Waaijer, [email protected]
Design Malvina Markina, [email protected]
Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, [email protected]
Contributors Andy Potts, Maria Stambler
Customer Service Manager
Tanya Kharitonova, [email protected]
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name
In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from
paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility
for changes and errors.
© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
© Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl
Published 6 times per year with supplements,
No 36, 01.12.2014, 60 000 copies.
For children aged 16 years and over.

Cover story
As essential to Christmas as old films, over-indulgence
and oh-my-god-where-did-the-year-go, tree ornaments
were first popularised in Germany in the mid-19th century. In 2010 a white gold bauble encrusted with over
1,500 diamonds was valued at $130,000

Russia’s Life Line charity (Liniya Zhizni) is one of the most
established funds in support of seriously ill children. Every
year it hosts a ‘Winter Celebration of Life’ in the run-up to
the New Year festivities, offering a fantastic opportunity to
combine gift shopping with the chance to make a lasting
contribution to saving the lives of children in need of urgent medical treatment. This year’s fair takes place on December 7th at the GUM Skating Rink on Red Square. As well
as shopping and some tasty treats, the event also includes
an interactive ice show – with visitors invited to take part in
the performance. www.life-line.ru

Russia’s first
hospitality awardS
Russia’s much-maligned hospitality sector gets the
chance to blow its own trumpet for a change with the
first ever Russian Hospitality Awards in February 2015.
The ceremony will announce the 18 best hotels in the
country in various categories. Nomination forms are
available on the Russian Hospitality Awards website,
and an expert jury will investigate what each hotel
has to offer as well as considering reviews from online
booking systems. This annual award is intended to
bring together leading figures in the hospitality industry, helping to promote excellence across the sector.
The inaugural award ceremony is scheduled for February 19 in Moscow. For more information, check out
www.hospitalityawards.ru.

New Hostel
in Moskva City

Long Russian holidays
The rest of the world may still decide to pop into work for a
few days between Christmas and New Year, principally to detox from the former and prepare for the latter, but Russia once
again cements its reputation as the land of plenty by generously bestowing a solid week and a half of rest and recuperation on
its mildly hungover citizens. This year, the national holidays run
from New Year’s Day to January 11th, while the particularly devout might also want to plan a half-day for the 13th to celebrate
Old New Year in accordance with the Russian Orthodox Calendar. The 25th and 26th of December remain normal working
days, inasmuch as this is ever practically possible. Read more on
the celebration of Russian Christmas on page 21.

Finding a cheap sleep in the city just got a bit easier following the opening of the ‘High Level’ hostel at Moskva City.
The cluster of skyscrapers just over the water from Kievsky
Vokzal wasn’t really intended as a budget destination, but
the 2009 economic crisis changed the fortunes of many
investors in the site and suddenly opened it up to unexpected new ideas. High Level, on the 43rd floor of the Imperia Tower, is one of these. Room rates start from 1,100Rbl
in a six-berth dorm, while twin rooms start at 2,800Rbl. The
price includes breakfast, access to the hostel’s library and
an internet connection. Meanwhile staff are multilingual –
between them they have English, German, French, Spanish,
Chinese, Norwegian and even Hebrew. For more details,
check out www.highlevelhostel.com

About IYP
ESTONIA
RUSSIA

LATVIA
LITHUANIA

NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND

BELARUS
NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM

POLAND
UKRAINE

GERMANY
CZECH
REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND
ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE

DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH
AFRICA

4 Moscow In Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more than 100
guides to cities across three continents, In Your
Pocket is currently preparing a new round of
expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Rotterdam in the Netherlands,
while some old favourites, such as Budapest in
Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad
will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand
new digital platform to look forward to.
In order to make sure you keep up with all
that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook
(facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on
Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Мoсква В Твоем Кармане
Учредитель и издатель
ООО «Красная Шапка»
Адрес редакции и издателя:
Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург
Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.
тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65
факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64
Главный редактор
Бонни ван дер Велде
Цена свободная.
Для детей старше 16 лет.

Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”,
191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул.
Тележная, д. 17.
Заказ No26829
Свидетельство о регистрации
средства массовой информации
Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03
выдано Северо-Западным
региональным управлением
комитета РФ по печати.
Тираж 60 000 экз. No36.
01.12.2014

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St. Tatiana’s Day
There are plenty of Tanyas in Russia but none are as special
as St. Tatiana, the patron saint of students. St. Tanya’s day or Student’s Day - is celebrated on January 25 and is usually
marked by all manner of pranks and revelry, especially so as
it typically lands at the end of the winter exam session. All
the major university campuses tend to host some kind of
special events for students and all across the country young
people get up to all kinds of tricks and tomfoolery.
December 2014 – January 2015

5

Arriving & Getting Around
Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and
its excellent public transport system. Although it is home
to over 12 million people, Moscow’s public transportation
has been hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground,
trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the
prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe
weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in
service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick
out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method
of getting from A to B in Moscow!

Aeroexpress Trains
The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains
run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and
Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress
ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel
agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow,
or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of
sales outlets can be found on the company’s website,
where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.
aeroexpress.ru.
Download their free mobile app and you will be able to
purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone
with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at
the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly
from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).

6 Moscow In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around
Arriving by plane
Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located
in the north west, Domodedovo in the south east and
Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the
far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city
centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in
just 35 - 45 minutes.
Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between
00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so
it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when
taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is
reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware
that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers
can not be depended on to have change, if you want to
avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change
in the terminal beforehand.

Arriving by train
Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and
whether you are coming from east or west, north or
south, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling
with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those
arriving very early in the morning to the stations around
Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and
Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia,
the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a
taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area
can be rather dangerous at night.
Belorussky Station
Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress
train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.
Kazansky Station
Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.
2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.
kazanskiy.railclient.ru.
Kievsky Station
Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru.
Kursky Station
For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy
Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.
kursky-vokzal.ru.
Leningradsky Station
Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya
pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.
leningradskiy.railclient.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Paveletsky Station
For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.
railclient.ru.
Rizhsky Station
Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5,
Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88,
www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.
Yaroslavsky Station
The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains
go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as
Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.

Public Transport
The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the
metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each
train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very
easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple
rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 40Rbl, although buying in bulk is cheaper (11 for 320Rbl). On the more modern
trains, there is an electronic sign in each carrige announcing
the next station. In the older carriages, however, it is simply
a voiceover, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so if
you aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to
count the number of stops you need to go.
Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as
the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy
to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the
metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward,
with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows
and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the
next stop inside,
Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take
some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can
look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate
form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the
driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere
along the route to let them out. The average cost is 30Rbl
- be sure to have some small change on you when taking a
marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!

Car Rental
Avis Russia Car Rental
AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports,
as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel.
(+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Hertz
Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect
a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges.
Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Taxis
Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other
Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company,
you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey.
Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com
English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300
drivers in Moscow.
New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru
TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru
Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru
XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru
It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and
negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To
indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm
down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it
is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are
notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the
city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree
to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses,
slam the door and move on to the next Lada.

Buying train tickets
Buying train tickets at the station
For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a
train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train
station. You can buy tickets for any train out of Moscow at
any train station. If you are buying tickets to a destination
outside of Russia, you need to look for the mezhdunarodnaya kassa (international desk). If you don’t speak Russian, it
is a good idea to find out the number and time of the train
you want to catch beforehand and write it down to help
you along, as most assistants do not speak English. Look
for a big LCD board in the station showing the timetable.
Don’t forget they also require your passport to sell you a
ticket, this is so that your passport details can be printed on
your ticket. If you lose your ticket, it is possible to get a new
one printed for a small fee by taking your passport to the
special lost tickets desk. You will be required to show your
passport when you enter the train (to prove the ticket and
reservation belongs to you).
Buying train tickets online
Using the website of the Russian railways eng.rzd.ru comes
in very handy. There you can view the timetables and buy
tickets online with a credit card and then just pick it up from
the station! Other options are to buy through a ticket agency or travel agency in Moscow or try and make a booking
through online retailers such as www.poezda.net, www.
tutu.ru, www.trainsrussia.com and www.poezdmegapolis.ru but you might need a login and a password.

Odin bilet - One ticket
Dva bileta - Two tickets
December 2014 – January 2015

7

City Basics

Language
Be on guard!

useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if
you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or
Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.

Basic frases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
I don't speak
Russian
Do you speak
English?
Help!
I need some
help
I don't want

Moscow Tourist Helpline (English)
(+7) 800 220 00 02.

Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro
stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Climate
Winters in Russia are notorious – they’ve defeated
both the armies of Hitler and Napoleon. In December the temperatures begin to drop, but there can still
be wet days, whereas January is usually the coldest
month and the city will be blanketed in snow. Time
to wrap up warm!

Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the
GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to
complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’
upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands
of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are
over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you
are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s
report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7,
bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and
2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as
Estonia, the allowance is less.

Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.
To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.
You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register
your new sim card.

Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what
is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.
Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to
choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight
as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the
most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye
shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party
drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that
is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

Post

Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (oC)

8 Moscow In Your Pocket

Average temperature (oC)
Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If
you need to get something in or out of the country in
a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or
Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these
offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post
office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post
box around the city.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

pocket dictionary: Sanki
In the depths of Russian winter
when the blizzards get heavier
and the snow drifts deeper you
may occasionally see locals
out dragging their smallest
children along home on sanki
(sledges) - quite frankly in that
kind of weather a regular detskaya kolyaska (baby stroller) just doesn’t cut it. Sanki of
course can also be typically seen in the park, whether being
pulled along by a horse - and sometimes even a troika of
three horses, or ridden down hills by energetic kids.

alphabet
А
Б
В
Г
Д
Е
Ё
Ж

A
B
V
G
D
E
YO
ZH

З
И
Й
К
Л
М
Н
О

Z
I
Y
K
L
M
N
O

П
Р
С
Т
У
Ф
Х
Ц

P
R
S
T
U
F
KH
TS

Ч
Ш
Щ
Ы
Э
Ю
Я
Ъ, Ь

CH
SH
SHCH
Y
E
YU
YA
no sound

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye!
Mne nuzhna
pomoshch
Ya ne khachu
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est…?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
It's expensive!
Eta dorogo!
Bolshoy/
Large/small
malenky
Khorosho/
Good/bad
plokho
It hurts!
Bolno!
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Could you write Zapishite
it down?
pazhalusta
Toilets
Tualet
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When? At what Kogda? Vo
time?
skolko?
What time is it? Katory chas?
Who?
Kto?
How do you say Kak skazat eto
that in Russian? pa-russky?
No problem
Bez problem
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!
Password
Parol

Нет/Да
Здравствуйте
До свидания
Спасибо
Извините
Пожалуйста
Я не понимаю
Я не говорю
по-русски
Вы говорите
по-английски?
Помогите!
Мне нужна
помошь
Я не хочу
Мне (не)
нравится
Можно?
У вас есть...?
Я не знаю
Сколько стоит?
Это дорого!
Большой/
маленкий
Хорошо/
плохо
Больно!
Сегодня
Завтра
Запишите,
пожалуйста
Туалет
Остановите,
пожалуйста
Когда? Во
сколько?
Который час?
Кто?
Как сказать
это по-русски?
Без проблем
Конечно
С праздником!
Пароль

December 2014 – January 2015

9

Culture & Events

Culture & Events
Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they
all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic
place. Live music from local and international performers
is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and
on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar
competitions and other curious events.

concert halls and clubs
Crocus City Hall
QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.crocus-hall.ru.
Luzhniki Stadium
QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62,
www.luzhniki.ru.
Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru.
Moscow Philarmonic Society
QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
RAY JUST Arena
QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495
940 67 55, www.rayjustarena.ru.
SK Olimpisky
QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33
33, www.olimpik.ru.
Stadium Live
QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495
540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru.
State Kremlin Palace
QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel.
(+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.

theatres
Bolshoi Theatre
QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455
55 55, www.bolshoi.ru.
Helikon-Opera
QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
695 65 84, www.helikon.ru.
Maly Theatre
QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK
Mayakovsky Theatre
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru.
Moon Theatre
QD-5, Ul. Malaya Ordynka 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 953 13 17, www.lunatheatre.ru.
Moscow English Theatre
Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Different performance venues, check the website for details.
Theatre PRAKtica
QB-2, Bol. Kozikhinsky per. 30, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 55 65, www.praktikatheatre.ru
10 Moscow In Your Pocket

Sovremennik Theatre
QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19А,, MChistye Prudy, tel.
(+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru.
Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru.
Taganka Theatre
QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.

December events
Organ RECITALs
The Evangelical-Lutheran
St. Peter-and-Paul’s Cathedral puts its church organ to
good use by staging regular organ recitals as well as
performances of choral
and sacral music. “Night
in a Cathedral” brings brilliant video installations and
breathtaking classical music performances to the cathedral every Friday at 22:00. The concept of video art, which
has become so common these days, takes on new artistic meaning with this project. A symbiosis of sounds and
visual images, composers and artists, cultural and genre
spirituality - this event is a kaleidoscope of bright visual
and auditory depictions. Every Saturday at 16:00 they also
have special performances for kids, called “Fairy tales with
the organ”.QD-3, Evangelical-Lutheran Stt. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral, Starosadsky per. 7/10, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 965 312 53 71, www.nochvsobore.com. Tickets
600 and 1,200Rbl. “Fairy tales with the organ” 600Rbl,
for children 300Rbl.
Once upon a time in Odessa
Russian musicals are a relatively rare breed - Moscow
has no equivalent to Broadway, and most of the bigname shows are imports
from New York or London.
But the recently opened
Theatre of Russian Song near
Olimpiisky is having a go at
putting that right. Odnazhdi v Odesse (Once upon a time
in Odessa) is an engaging tale of love, crime and revolution
as the lovable gangsters of the Ukrainian port city get embroiled in the tumult of 1917. It’s not the most sophisticated
story, and while many of the gags rely heavily on the local
dialect, the song-and-dance routines are colourful in any
language and it’s easy enough to follow the outlines of the
action without speaking Russian fluently. Well worth a look
for a different view of Russian popular entertainment.QC-1,
Theatre Russkaya Pesnya, Olympisky pr. 14, MProspekt
Mira, tel. (+7) 495 681 34 10, www.folkteatr.ru/. Every day
through December 11. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

07.12 Sunday
18:00 Buranovskye Babushki
Eurovision spawns monsters, and the dancing grannies
of provincial Russia, who represented the nation in song
in 2012, are no exception. Their hit, ‘Party for Everyone’,
has seen these perky pensioners touring incessantly
around Russia - including a stint at the Sochi Olympics
closing ceremony last February - with a feel-good mix
of folksy tradition and party electronica. This Kremlin
Palace show promises some new numbers, but it’s a fair
bet that the familiar old formula will still be to the fore.
QC-3, State Kremlin Palace (SKP), Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1,
MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, www.
buranovskiebabushki.ru. Tickets 2,000 - 5,000Rbl.

Show for kids
27.12 Saturday
12:00 and 15:00 New Year Dream
Moscow’s Museum of
Musical Instruments
is a treasure trove of
fascinating exhibits,
and for the holidays
it’s opening its doors
to children with a special festive fantasia.
The fairy tale show,
featuring a guest appearance from Russia’s Santa Claus himself, Ded
Moroz, introduces the New Year holidays in music
and dance perfect for the young and young-atheart. It all adds up to a New Year Night’s Dream,
a musical voyage with a whiff of the magic of the
season.QB-1, The Central Museum of Musical
Culture, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Tickets 730
- 1,450Rbl.

Buying concert tickets
13.12 Saturday
19:00 Enrique Iglesias
The Latino heart-throb returns to Moscow touring his
latest album, ‘Sex and Love’, and promising to set the
ladies of the city all a-tremble with his dashing good
looks. His award-laden career, following in the footsteps
of father Julio, has seen his music top the charts all over
the world - with three more number-one hits from ‘Sex
and Love’ itself. For an evening of Latin rhythms and
easy charm, Iglesias is hard to match - and his sole Russian show on this tour looks set to be another big hit.
QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino,
tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.enriqueiglesias.com.
Tickets 3,500 - 5,500Rbl.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices
and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in
the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they
tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows.
Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers
their event listings in English. Payment options include
cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or
credit card (MC/V).
Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive listings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options
include cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or credit card (MC/V).
16.12 Tuesday
19:00 Waltzes of the World
The Vienna Philharmonic’s New Year recital is one of
the great staging posts of the cultural year - and it has
spawned imitators all over the world. Moscow is no
exception, and in the run-up to the big holiday the
Svetlanov Symphony Orchestra, under the baton of renowned conductor Ion Marin, is inviting audiences to
whirl around the ballroom to the elegant strains of the
waltz. The Strauss family, mainstays of the Viennese
tradition, will feature strongly… but the program promises to explore more than just the aristocratic soirees of
the Habsburg dynasty. Mariinsky Opera soloist Amelia
Gogeshvili also performs.QC-3, State Kremlin Palace
(SKP), Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina,
tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, www.kremlinpalace.org. Tickets 1,500 - 4,500Rbl.
December 2014 – January 2015

11

Culture & Events
russian rock
05.12 Friday
20:00 Surganova & Orchestra
Svetlana Surganova
is one of the leading
ladies of the Russian
rock scene - and after
years of touring with
her rock orchestra
she’s now dabbling
with a more classicallyinfluenced sound. Following the launch of
her recent album ‘Igra
v Klassiki’ (Playing with the Classics), she’s touring with
a string quintet and taking more time to showcase
her own skills on the violin. The regular band ditches
keyboards and electric guitars for acoustic versions of
the same to present the new songs as part of a concert-show at Crocus City Hall. The performance is set
to combine classical traditions with Surganova’s own
unique style… and a liberal sprinkling of her greatest
hits.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.surganova.su.
Tickets 900 - 8,000Rbl.
06.12 Saturday
19:00 Akvarium
If you only ever listen
to one Russian rock
group, Akvarium is
probably the one to
pick. Back in the day,
Boris Grebenshchikov
was one of the key
figures behind the
fledgling Leningrad
Rock factory, a raw collective that skulked just
off the Soviet radar and nurtured talents like the great
Kino. Post communism, he’s become a somewhat
spiky guru of Russian counter-culture, eschewing the
easy path to a TV gig and a cosy life as a cultural commentator in favour of continuing to stalk the margins
and lob a metaphorical grenade or two at the system.
The December show at Crocus is already an established annual tradition, and it’s a must-see for fans of
one of the most notable acts in Russian rock.QCrocus
City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7)
499 550 00 55, www.aquarium.ru. Tickets 1,000 15,000Rbl.

For all the latest concert, event and
exhibition news follow us on facebook at
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12 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events
30.12 Tuesday
19:00 Ballet Gala

Exhibitions

There’s more top-class
dance to mark the New
Year at Moskovsky Dom
Muzyki where Uliana Lopatina takes centre stage. The
doyenne of the Bolshoi and
Mariinsky stages brings
together a galaxy of stars
from Russia’s top ballet theatres in a pot-pouri of highlights from the ballet stage.
Tchaikovsky features heavily
in an early celebration of his 175th anniversary in 2015, while
there’s a more modern accent with Piazolla’s famous Argentinian tango. It all promises to be a glittering end to the year.
QE-5, International House of Music, Kosmodamianskaya
nab. 52, bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11,
www.mmdm.ru. Tickets 2,200 - 15,500Rbl.

January events
10.01 Saturday
19:00 Gregorian Winter
As part of their Christmas tour the haunting vocals of Gregorian are back with a special winter program. The versatile
group, drawn largely from the cathedral choirs of England,
has carved an unlikely niche for itself by adapting a diverse
range of pop and rock hits into the style of medieval plainchant. This rare meeting of the sacred and the secular has
spawned a raft of hit albums and sell-out tours all over Europe. The winter program promises a hint of seasonal music,
from fireside warmers to snowy chills.QCrocus City Hall,
MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55,
www.gregorian.de. Tickets 1,500 - 10,000.
24.01 Saturday
20:00 Abba - the show
It might be 40 years since
Sweden’s greatest pre-Ikea
export faced its Waterloo
and shot to fame around
the world, but the disco
stars burn as bright as ever.
A whole generation of fans
has grown up long after the
group itself stopped performing, nurtured by a collection of karaoke classics
and tickets to Mamma Mia. So into the void, the cover bands
emerge. This one is rated as the best since Abba themselves,
according to the Scandinavian super troupers’ official fan
club, and claims an authentic Abba pedigree thanks to the
involvement of Ulf Anderson and Mats Ronander, two of the
original musicians behind the awesome foursome’s success.
QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel.
(+7) 499 550 00 55, www.theshow-a-tribute-to-abba.
com. Tickets 1,500 - 9,000Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

through 14.12 Sunday
Art from the Russian soil
Many artists have been
inspired by the timeless beauty of Russia’s
landscape, but Vladimir
Migachev took his love of
his homeland one step
further. His large-scale
canvases are not merely
inspired by the land - they
are created using the soil,
dust, ash and grit of the
scenes that he paints. The result is an epic symphony
of modern Russia, with the color, tone and mood of the
images directed by the very fundamentals of the scene
presented to the viewer. Born in 1959 in a small village,
Migachev grew up imbibing the spirit of the Russian countryside. After a formal artistic education he realized his true
voice in the 1990s after being commissioned to paint a
church; that task led him down a pathway to a new artistic
language based on simplicity and restraint that expresses
the inescapable melancholy and sacred power of Russia’s
wideopen spaces.QB-1, ArtStory, Staropimenovsky per.
14, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 13 43, www.art-story.
com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Entrance free.
18.12 Thursday - 08.02 Sunday
A lifetime in art
Moses Feigin, who celebrates his 100th anniversary in 2014, was one of the
last survivors of Russia’s
avant-garde school and
his work formed a living
link between the revolutionary innovators of the
early 20th century and the
contemporary artists of
our time. Artstory marks
this anniversary year with a
thorough retrospective of
one of the most fascinating
figures in modern Russian art. Feigin’s career began as a
student at Moscow’s VKhUTEMAS college in the 1920s - at
that time the college was a shining beacon of the avantgarde, with influence all over the world. He fell in love with
the ‘Jack of Diamonds’ group, and described himself as the
last disciple of that movement, working for years in complete isolation as the political winds shifted and his formalist principles fell out of favour. This anniversary show tells
the story of Feigin’s work from his student days through to
2006, when he was listed in the Guinness Book of Records
as the world’s oldest working artist at the age of 102.QB1, ArtStory, Staropimenovsky per. 14, MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 650 13 43, www.art-story.com. Open 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Entrance free.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

russian rock
13.12 Saturday
19:30 DDT

On the same night as Enrique Iglesias, Yury Shevchuk’s
group DDT is also unveiling its new concert program.
Shevchuk shot to global fame in 2010 when he appeared with U2 in their Moscow gig, but locally he’s
long been known for uncompromising alternative rock
and a measure of political activism - shortly before that
Bono backslapping he led a 3,000-strong rally in downtown Moscow in protest against the destruction of Khimki forest for a new road. Earlier this year DDT launched
their latest album, Prozrachny, with a three-hour openair gig; the winter version of the same promises a similar
run-down of great songs old and new.QStadium Live,
Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495
540 55 40, www.ddt.ru. Tickets 2,000 - 12,000Rbl.
20.12 Saturday
19:00 Splin

Russian band Splin marks its 20th anniversary this year,
and has produced a complex, long-awaited double album to celebrate. ‘Resonance’ gets its first concert airing here at Olympiisky on December 20, and according
to the band the two halves of the recording represent
two views of the same picture - when placed together
they cannot fail to resonate, hence the name of the
album. Throughout their two decades on stage Splin
have never been afraid of reinvention, and this latest
concept promises to be one of their most interesting yet.QС-1, SK Olimpisky (SKO), Olimpisky pr. 16,
MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.splean.ru.
Tickets 1,000 - 30,000Rbl.
December 2014 – January 2015

13

Culture & Events
Icons
No Russian church is
complete without its
icons – but what do
these ancient images
mean, and why are
they there?
The tradition came to
Kievan Rus following
the conversion to Christianity in 988. Little is
known about the artists who painted them
– with a few notable
exceptions, such as the
great Andrei Rublev, these were considered works to
glorify God, not celebrate the talent of their makers. At
a time when literacy was unusual, strong visual images
played a vital role in the ritual. These painted icons, following from Byzantine tradition, were introduced as a
focal point for prayer. Even today, believers continue
to address prayers to specific icons, choosing an image that matches the problem they wish to share with
God. That’s why, for example, icons depicting Prince
Pyotr and his peasant bride Fevronia are associated with
prayers concerning family life.
Some of Russia’s most venerated icons have legends
attached to them: they accompanied great armies into
battle and are credited with inspiring victories and
defending the Orthodox faith of the Russian people.
The icon of the Mother of God of Vladimir is believed
to have spared Moscow from invasion on no less than
three occasions. The monastery on Sretenka was built
on the site where, in 1395, Prince Vasily of Moscow
spent the night praying over the icon after it arrived
from the ancient city of Vladimir. The next day the
Mongol Armies of Tamerlane retreated from the city.
Learn more about Russian icons in the Andrey Rublyev
Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art or in the
Tretatyakov Gallery (see page 39 and 41).
through 15.01 Thursday
World of Dali
Surrealist genius Salvador Dali is perhaps the most widely-known figure in 20th century art. His wild flights of
fantasy and intensely colourful canvases have long since
transcended the confines of the art world and become
an instantly recognisable brand of their own. His work
was intensely dramatic, and it is that theatrical spirit
that has inspired the immersive ‘World of Dali’ show at
Sunlight Studio. His best known works are presented in
a multi-media display, display on the walls, ceiling and
floor in full HD format that draws the viewer deep into
Dali’s world of mystery and confusion.QSunlightstudio, Elektrozavodskaya ul. 21, MElektrozavodskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 215 51 20, www.mirdali.ru. Open 11:00 01:00. Admission 350 - 550Rbl.
14 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events
18.12 Thursday - 01.02 Sunday
Riboud’s world
Marc Riboud is perhaps one
of the greatest photographers of the 20th century,
and his image of a peace
protestor in Washington DC
spiking a soldier’s gun with
flowers is one of the most
famous pieces of photo-reportage yet produced. This
exhibition, however, focuses
more on his work in the Far East, where he was one of the first
Western visitors to bring images of life in China to the wider
world. His subjects are rarely the ‘great men’ of the age; he
prefers to capture the stories of ordinary people, sharing their
hopes, fears and joys with audiences and bringing to life the
back story behind headline-grabbing events. This extensive
retrospective takes viewers around the world with Riboud’s
vision as their guide.QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl.
through 13.01 Tuesday
Cults of personality
Moscow’s Central Lenin
Museum was devoted to
buffing up the myth of the
USSR’s great leaders, Lenin
and Stalin. But the collapse
of the Soviet system left it
caught in limbo, its thousands of adoring artefacts
out of step with the new
era. Now, though, they’re
back - albeit in a different
kind of display that aims to explore just how the regime
sought to transform these men into political gods through a
mixture of venerated personal possessions and propaganda
items. The display also highlights the fate of those who fell
foul of the Soviets: Brodsky’s ‘Inauguration of the Second
Congress of the Comintern’ monumental canvas depicts
more than 300 leading socialists from Russia and the rest
of the world. A new exhibition tells how many of them fell
from grace, turning Brodsky’s work from a triumph into
an embarrassment.QC-3, State Historical Museum, Red
Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.
shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue
and first Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl.
through 18.01 Sunday
Portraits of the past
‘In the stream of time’ brings a series of images from the
Lola Garrido Collection to Russia for the first time. The
halls of the Pushkin Fine Art Museum are taken over by
a host of iconic portraits telling the story of 150 years of
photography and celebrity. Among the famous names in
the photos are the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietmoscow.inyourpocket.com

rich and George Bernard Shaw; among the great photographers represented we have Alexander Rodchenko, Julia
Margaret Cameron, Diane Arbus, Nan Goldin, Alfred Stieglitz, Cindy Sherman, Man Ray, Robert Capa, Horst P. Horst,
Philippe Halsman, William Klein, Henri Cartier-Bresson,
Dorothea Lange, and Robert Mapplethorpe. Among the
highlights are some early 20th century autochromes by
Edward Steichen, one of the pioneers of photography in
the USA.QC-3, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts,
Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609
95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 300Rbl.
through 08.02 Sunday
Costakis
George Costakis, a Moscow-born Greek, was one
of the great collectors of
Soviet art - including many
‘lost’ avant-garde works
suppressed during the
Stalinist obsession with
Socialist Realism. He was
ultimately allowed to leave
the USSR for Greece, but
was obliged to hand over
half his collection to the state, where it became part of
the Tretyakov’s collection of modern art. This exhibition,
marking Costakis’ centenary, includes many avant-garde
works by Kandinsky, Malevich, Chagall and others, while
also featuring Costakis’ interest in medieval icons and folk
art.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky Val
10, Hall 60-62, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78,
www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed
Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl.
through 08.03 Sunday
Classical French Art at Arkhangelskoe
Imperial Russia’s love affair with all things French is wellknown: time was when fashion dictated even princely
underwear should be sent to France to be laundered.
But the legacy of that entente cordiale offers more than
mere Parisian pampering, as a blockbuster new art show
at Arkhangelskoe is out to prove. The aristocratic estate to
the north-west of the capital was home to the Yusupov
family, and Prince Nikolay was one of the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy includes a collection
of more than 100 works from the late 18th and early 19th
centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of Paris saw him
become the first man to introduce the works of Horace
Vernet and Marguerite Gerard to Russian audiences. Those
works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoe show,
which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries.
QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5km Ilinskoe
Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.
arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the
month. Park always open. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. AUW
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

DOMESTIC ART
through 01.02 Sunday
Unrivalled Wedgwood
The legendary Wedgwood pottery firm
of England has been
a proud supplier of
its unique work to
the Royal Families of
Europe since Josiah
Wedgwood set up
his business in Stokeon-Trent in the 18th century. Wedgwood’s creative
flair and entrepreneurial know-how put his exquisite
dining sets on the tables of the aristocratic families of
Europe, from Buckingham Palace to the Hermitage.
As part of the UK-Russia year of Culture, the All-Russia
Museum of Decorative Art is hosting a large-scale retrospective of some of the company’s greatest works.
Much of the collection comes from the UK, where the
Lady Lever Collection has released several items for
their first ever international trip.
18.12 Thursday - 08.02 Sunday
Babushka’s knick-knacks
Stepping into a well-loved Russian home can often feel
like a journey through time, falling into a collection of
long-treasured ornaments and utensils. This exhibition
at the All-Russian Museum of Decorative Arts recreates something of that atmosphere with a collection
of items that were household essentials a century ago
but are now all but forgotten. The passage of time may
have rendered forceps for removing soot from candles
and elaborate tools for caring for headwear obsolete,
but these curiosities offer an intriguing insight into the
homes where our great-grandparents grew up. The
exhibition offers a tour of late 19th-century mansion,
with each ‘room’ fitted out appropriately.
17.12 Wednesday - 15.02 Sunday
Silk and calico – Dialogue of Cultures
The exotic and luxurious silks of Uzbekistan, famous
for their bright colours, have been hailed as the inspiration for the modernist ideas of Kandinsky, Rothko
and others. They were also often paired with floralprint Russian cotton to make colourful robes. Some of
the brightest examples from the 17th-20th centuries
are collected here - many of them never previously displayed in public - showing how two different tailoring
cultures created two complementary styles.
QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609
01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Tue and last Mon of the month.
December 2014 – January 2015

15

Features

Culture & Events
Gogol House
Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A, in
the very centre of Moscow near Arbat Square,
with its stone arcades and
balconies, may seem like
your average merchant’s
mansion but there is a lot
more to it than meets the
eye. This house has a very
rich history dating back
to the early 17th century
and had belonged to families of boyars, courtiers,
royal councilors, government officials, army generals
and even the members of the Tolstoy family.
However, the most famous resident to have ever inhabited
this manor was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol,
one of the most preeminent figures of the natural school of
Russian literary realism and author of such classics as “The
Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The Government Inspector”
and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Welcome to the Gogol House
Memorial Museum Science Library!
Although he had only spent the last four years of his life
here, this is the place where the writer worked on the
second volume of Dead Souls. It was here that he burnt
the manuscripts of the poem, and in this very house, on
February 21, 1852 that the writer died. The Gogol House
is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous
memories alive by combining a research library of over 250
000 volumes, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum.

Vladimir Maslov
At the end of November
the famous Russian painter
Vladimir Maslov celebrated
his 80th birthday, and to
mark this occasion Gogol
House is putting on an exhibition of his work, with
some pieces coming from
his own studio, some from
the collections of his admirers. A total of 65 paintings will be on display, all but
15 for the very first time. The exhibition is not devoted
to any particular area of Maslov’s work, but is rather a
collection from his entire artistic career, including landscapes, portraits and still lifes, each one posing the
question, “What is the artist trying to say here?”
In fact Maslov’s message is abundantly clear - in every
work there is love, and an equally clear understanding
and insight, that everything is love. His work is almost
Shakespearian in its forensic precision, sagacious narrative and all-encompassing scope, conveying at once
his love for, and amazement at the world around him.
16 Moscow In Your Pocket

The museum itself is located on the first floor, which Gogol
occupied, and is broken up into several rooms. Gogol’s
study was a special room where he could enjoy some
peace and quiet while he put his timeless words down on
paper.

The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where
the author entertained his guests. The “Government Inspector” room tells visitors about Russian theatre of the
1830s and 1840s, as well as Gogol’s Theatre and plays based
on his works. The Room of Remembrance is where Gogol
stayed when his health began to fade in 1852, purely because it was warmer than the other rooms.
Although special attention is given to the works of Gogol
and other material relating to his life, visitors also have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psychology,
art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The library
also has a hall devoted specifically to music, where anyone
from novices to professionals can browse through music
books and even have a go on the electric piano with special
headphones to better hear how they sound.
The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging
from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to
the works of Gogol and other prominent Russian authors.

QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92
56, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last day of
the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow TheatrE Life

The Nutcracker

To say that Moscow has a rich and multi-faceted theatre life
would be a huge understatement. Theatre in Russia dates
all the way back to pagan shows with dramatised performances of fables, tales and proverbs, with the singing and
dancing provided by skomorokhi, or traveling minstrels.
Moscow’s first theatre opened its doors in 1672 at the court
of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. Though lagging behind the opening of London’s first public playhouse by almost 100 years,
Moscow quickly made up for lost time, becoming one of the
centres of theatrical life by the 19th century with the founding
of the Maly (Small) and Bolshoi (Grand) Theatres in 1824
and 1825 respectively.
The turn of the 20th century saw a flourishing of theatrical activity and with it a search for new styles. Perhaps the
biggest change on the Moscow theatre landscape at this
time was the foundation of the Moscow Art Theatre of
Konstantin Stanislavsky and Vladimir NemirovichDanchenko in 1898. In fact, Russian theatre as we know
it today can trace its roots to the pioneering work of those
genius directors.
Today, the Russian capital has over 150 theatres of all sizes
and styles - both classical and non-repertory theatres offer
up a broad palette of traditional and avant-garde plays, awesome acting talent and stunning stage design. The “open
showcases” that combine the best traditions of repertory
theater with experimental settings by youthful creative companies have become a new force in Moscow’s theatre life.

Dating back to 1918-1919, the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of the
largest and most successful theatres of Russia. The opera
and ballet performances are well known to Moscow audiences, and attract more and more international visitors.
The theatre takes part in many international projects and
is nominated every year for the Golden Mask national
theatre award. In 2013 the theatre was even nominated
in London for the opera Oscar: the first ever international
opera award for best opera theatre. The Stanislavsky
theatre itself is beautifully decorated, with wide open
spaces and a gorgeous museum showing the history
of the theatre, the costumes used in the performances
staged there, and the spectacular stage sets.

The iconic Bolshoi Theatre is famed as much for the architectural splendour of the building itself (it was designed by
Joseph Bové) as for the truly breathtaking ballet and opera
performances that it stages. Although the Bolshoi was officially opened on 20 October 1856, on Tsar Alexander II’s
coronation day, it traces its history back to 28 March 1776,
when Catherine II granted the prosecutor, Prince Pyotr Urusov, the “privilege” of “maintaining” theatre performances of
all kinds, including masquerades, balls and other forms of
entertainment.
Today the Bolshoi Ballet and Bolshoi Opera are among the
oldest and most renowned companies of their kind in the
world, the former also being the world’s largest ballet company, with over 200 dancers. The theatre underwent extensive reconstruction from July 2005 to October 2011, as a
result of which many of the historic building’s lost features
were restored to their former glory. At the same time, work
on the technical side of things made the Bolshoi one of the
world’s most technically advanced theatres.
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Christmas and New Year would just not quite be the
same without The Nutcracker, and from 29th December to 3rd January (with the exception of New Year’s
Day itself ), the Stanislavsky theatre is staging this timeless fairytale, about which the composer Boris Asafiev
once famously wrote, “The Nutcracker is a symphony
about childhood - or rather, about childhood coming
to an end. When you already feel the thrill and hopes
of your young adult life, but haven’t yet parted with
the habits and fears of childhood… When your dreams
draw your thoughts and feelings beyond your conscious self, into a new life that you can only foretaste”.
Stanislavsky and NemirovichDanchenko Moscow Music Theatre
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru.

December 2014 – January 2015

17

Features
The Bolshoi’s little sister is
the Maly Theatre, established right next door to
the Bolshoi in the early 19th
century, although again
its roots go further back,
to the Moscow University
drama company, founded
in 1756. Within a few short
decades, the Maly became
universally recognized in Russia as the leading dramatic
theatre of the century. Today it is first and foremost a traditional drama theatre staging classical heritage plays.
The first “international” theatre in Moscow was the theatre
“On Nikitsky”, thanks to performances by world-famous actors such as Sarah Bernhardt, Eleonora Duse and Ernst von
Possart. Known today as the Mayakovsky Theatre, this is
yet another one of Moscow’s must-see theatres. The Mayakovsky remains one of the capital’s local favourites, and
its actors are among the most famous across Russia. The
Mayakovsky theatre stages classical pieces from such literary masters as Gogol, Dostoevsky and Chekhov.

Making the Art Nouveau building on Taganka Square its
home, the Taganka Theatre is as famous for the controversies in its repertoire and leadership as for the incredible
talents that have performed there since it opened. Founded in 1964 by Yuri Lyubimov, the theatre rose to popularity
with Vladimir Vysotsky and Alla Demidova among the leading players. However, its repertoire was so daring and controversial that it regularly fell foul of the Soviet authorities,
who banned many of Lyubimov’s productions. By 1984 the
director was stripped of his Soviet citizenship and exiled
to the West. Today it remains a firm favourite among the
Russian intelligentsia for its efforts to continually push the
dramatical and theatrical envelope.

18 Moscow In Your Pocket

Features
Founded in the post-Stalin
years, at a time when the cult
of personality was exiting
stage-left, the Sovremennik Theatre (“Contemporary Theatre”) was the first to
be founded by a free creative
group of like-minded talents
who were able to prove
themselves as a genuine
and worthy artistic collective. Among the founders, all
graduates from the Moscow Art Theatre School-Studio, were
such respected actors as Oleg Yefremov, Galina Volchek, Igor
Kvasha, Liliya Tolmachyova, Yevgeniy Yevstigneyev and Oleg
Tabakov. Like any theatre, the Sovremennik has had its ups and
downs throughout its relatively long history, but no matter
what, its fans have always showed support and enthusiasm for
what it does and today it’s as strong as ever.
Paris has its Sun Theatre,
Prague its Night Theatre,
Japan has its Fog Theatre,
and Moscow has its Moon
Theatre (Teatr Luny). From
its romantic beginnings in a
small basement in 1992, the
Teatr Luny now occupies a
gorgeous mansion in central
Moscow and tours regularly, not only Russia, but also
countries like the USA, Israel,
Germany, Holland, Bulgaria,
Mexico among others. The brilliant Sergey Prokhanov founded
the theatre and remains its art director to this very day. Most
plays are also written by him and stand out for their poetry,
unique directing style and refined musical accompaniment.
Prolific modern Russian actors like Chulpan Khamatova, Irina
Metlitskaya, Anatoliy Romashin and many others have appeared at least once on the Luny’s stage.
Although positively youthful by local standards,
Praktika has come to be
known as a charming little
place that feels more like a
gathering of close friends
than a full theater experience, principally thanks to
its simple interior and small
capacity. The plays staged
here are often daring and
controversial, so it appeals
more to the younger crowd
of theatre-goers on an intellectual, emotional and spiritual
search. A new generation of playwrights and and directors
has been using this space since 2005 to explore topics like
personality and power, ethnos and urbanism, war and religion, ethics and immoralism.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

A true genius of theatrical art, Konstantin Stanislavsky
made an unparalleled contribution to modern European
and American realistic acting, which has remained at the
core of mainstream western performance training for
much of the last century. For this reason alone, the world
famous Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko
Moscow Music Theatre is certainly worth a visit. Today
the company’s repertoire includes operas (Betrothal in
a Monastery, Carmen, Onegin, La Bohème, La Forza del
Destino, La Traviata, Madama Butterfly, the Queen of
Spades, The Tale of Tsar Saltan, Tosca and many others),
ballet (the timeless Russian repertoire) and the brilliant
premiers of 2014 - Aida, Manon, Don Giovanni, Il Matrimonio Segreto and Tatiana, which opened in November.

We all know how beautiful and enchanting classical opera
can be: there’s Verdi’s masterpiece “La Traviata”, with all the elements we crave to feed our operatic addiction: a beautiful,
consumptive, fallen-woman heroine, Parisian party scenes,
love’s travails, a troubled father and a deathbed scene. Or Bizet’s “Carmen”, a long but action- and infectious music-filled
tale about a gypsy dancer working at a cigarette factory who
breaks hearts and meets her doom outside the bullring is the
perfect formula for an opera. But if you know the classics inside and out and are looking for a new take on your favourite
art form, then the Moscow-based Helikon-Opera company
is worth a visit or two. Specializing in unconventional productions, the company was founded by Dmitry Bertman,
and gave its first performance, Stravinsky’s Mavra, on April
10, 1990. Nowadays it gives 200 performances a year, primarily in Moscow but also abroad.
If you’re new to Russia, or your knowledge of the Russian
language is rusty to say the least, we bring glad tidings! A
little over a year ago, Royal Shakespeare Company alumnus
Jonathan Bex realized he had little hope of acting in any of
the city’s many theatres. Instead of despairing, however, he
came up with a creative solution, and started the first ever
theatre company offering exclusively English-language
productions to Moscow’s audiences. The Moscow English
Theatre brings professional actors from the UK to stage
contemporary British and American drama in Moscow.
So in this review we’ve managed to cover only 10 of the
150+ theaters currently bringing smiles, tears, joy and
laughter to Muscovites and visitors to the capital. Once you
cover this list of “essentials”, you will surely find out about
all the smaller and more niche places and companies that
have helped Moscow earn the title of one of the world’s
great theatre capitals. Happy viewing!
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At home with a Fairytale

Folk show on ice for children
The Russkaya Pesnya theatre run by Nadezhda Babkina
has put together a unique seasonal gift for its audience:
Russia’s first ever folk show on ice for children, entitled
“At Home with a Fairytale”. The show features the worldfamous figure-skaters and Olympic champions Natalya
Bestemyanova and Andrey Bukin, along with artists
from Igor Bobrin’s theatre of ice miniatures, the Russian
Seasons dance troupe and the Slavyanye and Russkaya
Pesnya folk ensembles.
The New Year fairytale that graces the stage has both
a compelling plot and a genuine Russian scale, including the most beloved heroes of the country’s tradition:
the mischievous Kolobok, the ebullient Skomorokhi
minstrels and of course the sly and cunning Wolf, Fox
and Baba Yaga. Visitors can also expect the unexpected,
with the show also incorporating the Russian folk characters Spring, Summer and Autumn.
The entertaining adventures of Kolobok and co. culminate, naturally, in a big happily-ever-after celebration
around the Christmas tree, with the indispensable Ded
Moroz and Snegurochka joining in on the fun.
A fairytale inspired by kindness and friendship, with
genuine audience participation and surprising adventures – all this lies in store for you at the Russkaya
Pesnya theatre from 27th December to 11th January. The show includes everything that an audience
could wish for – your favourite fairytale characters,
spectacular settings and costumes, and wondrous
special effects. The uncompromising professionalism of the show’s creators, in combination with the
venue’s state-of-the-art setting, make this wonderful spectacle one of the New Year season’s very best
shows for children.
QMusical Folklore Theatre “Russkaya Pesnya”, SadovayaChernogryazskaya ul. 5/9, bldg. 2, MKrasnye Vorota, tel.
(+7) 926 221 72 84, www.folkteatr.ru. Tickets available at
the theatre, online or by phone.

For contact information on theatres
check page 10
December 2014 – January 2015

19

Culture & Events

Features
Getting your skates on
Ice skating has long been a popular winter pastime in Russia, from hockey-playing monks on frozen medieval rivers
to elegant aristocrats in 19th-century novels. And modernday Moscow is no different, whether it’s swooping around
the city’s parks or scrumming down on a mini hockey rink
in the suburbs. Whether you’re looking for a fashionable
spot to show off your salchow or you just need a bit of ice
to try out your toe-loops, here’s the lowdown on where to
flash your blades this winter.
Europe’s biggest
Russia loves a good superlative, and while this year’s rink
at VDNKh can’t claim to be the world’s biggest (a prize
somewhat surprisingly claimed by Mexico City), it does
promise to be the biggest in Europe. With a five-acre ice
sheet, installed at a cost of US$19 million, it’s set to transform the area around the Friendship of Nations fountain
into a winter wonderland when it opens on December 1.
The site aims to cater for all skill levels, and also promises
an ‘extreme skating’ section with jumps, a hockey rink and
a ‘lovers’ lane’. The ice is expected to be open until March.

WINTER HOLIDAYS
IN MOSCOW
Ah, Winter in Moscow: pavement-cracking
cold, the odd welcome glimpse of a hibernal
sun, and that strange unsettling feeling that
your nose is no longer entirely attached
to the rest of you. Join us on a whirlwind
tour of ways to buoy up your spirits as the
temperatures drop.
20 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Iconic location
GUM’s Red Square ice rink has become such a Moscow institution it’s amazing to think it only opened up for the first
time as recently as 2006. Since then, though, it’s become
the preferred place for many to slip in a bit of seasonal
people-watching on the city’s most prestigious – and usually most expensive – place to skate. However, as the dusk
falls and the lights go on around the city’s most famous
sight, few experiences are as evocative as twirling around
beneath the Kremlin walls under a light dusting of gentle
snow. For details see www.gum.ru/katok.
A NIGHT ON THE ICE
If you’d rather have a roof over your head as you blunder
around, and you are otherwise occupied during the day,
there is always the nighttime rink at the Morozovo Ice Palace near the Dubrovka metro station. This purpose-built
venue has a much longer season than the outdoor rinks, in
fact if you ever find yourself in the area on a hot summer’s
evening and decide that the day wouldn’t be complete
without a couple of cheeky reverse-axels, this is the place
for you. Two rinks are available, one for the effortlessly experienced, the other for the clumsy and terrified. For details
and timings, visit www.katokmorozovo.ru.

Russian Christmas
For most people in Russia, December 31st is the big
winter party, and the 10-day break afterwards is a
time for chilling out and shaking off the post-New Year
hangover. But January 7th is also the date of Russian
Orthodox Christmas, calculated according to the old
Gregorian calendar. On January 6th, as most of Europe
begins taking down its decorations, Orthodox believers gather for a midnight mass and vigil. The dawn of
Christmas day, despite the cold, is greeted with peals
of bells and processions before families head home for
the great feast. In honour of Christ’s 12 disciples, this
is usually a 12 course affair, and it is based on a series
of traditional dishes. Many include fish, an old Christian
symbol, while seasonal specials include sweet honey
cakes and milky kutya, a porridge laced with poppy
seeds, wheatberries, honey and nuts. January 7th isn’t
the end of the month’s religious activities, though:
epiphany on January 19th is marked by plungeing into
icy pools, a ritual once connected with Christ’s baptism
but increasingly adopted by thrill-seekers of all creeds.

orthodox Epiphany
Ice swimming has been a practised in Russia for centuries although there are no clear details of how exactly
the tradition began. The most common form of ice
swimming, is the religious ice baptism. Every year on
the epiphany (January 19th in the Russian Orthodox
calendar) Russian Orthodox believers are plunged into
a blessed section of frozen water three times in honour
of Jesus’ baptism in the river Jordan by John the Baptist.
During the time of communism the ice baptism tradition all but disappeared, but in recent years this way of
marking the Kreshchenie (epiphany) has again become
popular. If you are hoping to watch the spectacle it is
best to either get up very early in the morning or arrive
around midnight - as as with many Orthodox religious
ceremonies, the Kreshchenie usually takes place during
the night. Icy baptisms take place across Moscow although one of the most accessible river plunging areas
is at the river port at metro Strogino.

Skate into history: legend has it that modernday skates came to Russia when Peter the Great
returned from the Netherlands. By 1838 the
writer GM Pauli published his ‘Winter frolics and
the art of skating on ice’ in Russian, and soon
afterwards in the mid-19th century the rink at
Petrovka 26/9 opened. It’s still running today,
making it the city’s oldest surviving ice pad.
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December 2014 – January 2015

21

Features
MUZEON

For those who don’t fancy zipping around at high speed
across the snow, Muzeon Park is making a pitch to be the
city’s winter hot spot. The area has been transformed,
along with much of the riverside, and is fully geared up
to cater for the hipster overspill from Krasny Oktyabr and
Gorky Park. A tubing slope is being installed as a permanent winter feature, while there are a series of other
events to mark the season. In the run-up to the New Year
the Mir market promises more than 200 stalls offering
traditional food and drink from around the world (the five
zones include Provence, Russia, America and Scandinavia) as well as some interesting gift ideas. Entrance is free,
and the event runs from 24-30 December and with DJs
and masterclasses to teach you some new festive tricks.
As midnight approaches on New Year’s Eve, the park offers an alternative to the throng in Red Square. Elektronoch reprises the summer musical programme in the
park, with a mixture of live music and DJ sets, all in the
frosty New Year air. Wrap up warm, and get to the front of
the queue in the food court to make the best of this one.
Many of the bands who featured in the Motherland festival – from acoustic folk to trippy dream-pop – will also be
back in the first days of the New Year as part of a holiday
programme that also includes a theatrical quest and a
snowball fight for children. Russian Orthodox Christmas
falls on January 7 and Muzeon will be marking it with
a multimedia show incorporating a real helicopter, theatrical performances and the verses of Brodsky, Yesenin
and Mandelstam recited by artists from the Chekhov Art
Theatre. It sounds like an intriguing combination, and
a perfect excuse to drag yourself away from the deadening holiday season TV offerings.QKrymsky Val 10,
MOktyabrskaya, www.muzeon.ru.

22 Moscow In Your Pocket

Features
Park life

Luxury hotel offers

Many of Moscow’s parks are opening up rinks over the
course of the winter, so you won’t have to go far to find
somewhere to skate. Besides the rinks on the previous
page, Gorky Park is the daddy of them all, and Hermitage
Garden is another city centre option. Further out, Sokolniki, Izmailovsky Park, local parks at Taganskaya and Krasnaya Presnya, the estates at Tsaritsyno and Kolomenskoye
and the Bauman Gardens offer suburban skating. For free
access to natural ice, Chistye Prudy and Patriashie Prudy
also welcome skaters when they freeze – lovers of Anna
Karenina can re-enact Levin’s encounter with Kitty at the
latter venue. Skate hire isn’t usually available here, though.

The falling ruble and the onset of the holiday season mean
there are some great bargains to be had at Moscow’s luxury
hotels. Room rates have been slashed in some cases, and
when discount rates are coupled with the autumn slump
in the local currency, this famously expensive destination is
starting to look just that little bit more affordable.
For special-offer sleeps, the Radisson Royal, based in the
former Ukraina Hotel, one of Moscow’s famous Seven
Sisters, is offering a discounted second night for guests
staying on New Year’s Eve. The package includes two free
tickets for the hotel’s river cruise, free brunch and free use of
the spa facilities. The cost is 15,015Rbl a night in a superior
room or 25,015 in a business suite – and the second night
comes at a 20% discount.
The National, in the very heart of the city at the foot of
Tverskaya, has a discount on its normal room rate between
19th December and 11th January, with prices starting at
10,030Rbl depending on room category and availability.
The Hilton on Leningradskoye Shosse also has a promotion
during that period – for 5,000Rbl a room, you can enjoy a
night in the hotel, free use of the pool and fitness centre
and a 20% discount on food and drink in the restaurant and
lobby bar.
The New Year is also a great time for parties: the National
offers a glittering New Year’s Eve ball with a traditional festive Russian menu, live music and a terrific view of the Red
Square fireworks at midnight. Tickets for the big event are
10,000 or 15,000Rbl, depending on which of the hotel’s reception halls you choose.
Finding a Christmas dinner can sometimes be a challenge
for foreigners, with Russia preferring to hold off its big party
until New Year. But help is at hand at the Sheraton Sheremetyevo, where a special Christmas menu is on offer from
22-28 December. The chef’s signature dish, scallops on a
saffron puree, is part of a four course menu that also offers
a choice of roast duck or grilled salmon and a traditional
French-style Yule Log. The cost is 2,500Rbl per person.
Two of the Marriot Hotels also offer festive brunches in
the weekends leading up to the New Year. The first, on
20-21 December, is at the Royal Aurora where chef Carl
Damegger offers a Christmas carvery, complete with
mulled wine. Younger guests have a special entertainment programme, including a final chance to send off a
wishlist to Santa Claus.
On 28 December the action moves to the Marriott Grand,
where Emmanuel Garde’s luxury menu is accompanied
by a programme of live music and festive entertainment.
Precise times are still to be confirmed but both hotels are
likely to offer brunches from 12:30 to 17:00. The Marriott
chain also offers holiday season discounts on some rooms
– check out the website for more details.
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya
QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel.
(+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com.
Hotel National
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru.

Skating hints
Most of the places listed here offer skate hire, sometimes
free of charge (deposit required). For the busier sites, especially Red Square and Gorky Park, it’s worth booking in advance online. It’s also worth remembering that the queues
to return skates and recover deposits at the end of a session
can be long – especially for evening slots at Gorky Park.
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VDNKh)
QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, www.artkatok.ru
Gorky Park
QB-5, Krymsky Val 9, MOktyabrskaya, www.bigkatok.ru
Hermitage Garden
QC-1, Karetny Ryad 3, MChekhovskaya, www.superkatok.ru
Petrovka
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 26/9, MTrybnaya
Red Square
QC-3, Krasmaya Pl. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, www.gum.ru/katok
Ski special
Aside from skating there’s plenty of other sporting activity
on offer in Moscow once the snow comes. Sokolniki is the
place to go for skiing, more than 100km of cross-country
routes including a 40km circuit combining 10 of the 66
separate paths on offer throughout this huge park to the
north-east of the city. The ski runs are illuminated, so it’s
possible to ski late into the night here. For more information, see www.park.sokolniki.com.
For downhill skiing choices are rather limited, especially if
you don’t fancy leaving the city, but there are modest slopes
at the Kant centre near Nagornaya metro (www.kant.ru).
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Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel
QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr.
Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7)
495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru.
Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru.
Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo
QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B/5, MPlanernaya, tel.
(+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.com.

CHRISTMAS
AT St. Andrew’s
In August, St. Andrew’s Anglican Chaplaincy entered a
new era with the arrival of Rev. Clive Fairclough. One of
Rev’d Fairclough’s goals is to make the chaplaincy more
visible and active in the community, and in just a few
short months many steps have been taken towards this
goal. Shortly after arriving, Fr. Clive and his wife Jo began a new tradition – a bring-and-share open house at
the parsonage on the last Friday of the month for members of the parish as well as those in wider community
who might be interested in the work of the church.
December is a great month to make a visit to St. Andrew’s. The chaplaincy will host its annual Christmas
bazaar from 13:00-16:00 on Dec. 6. Traditional English
and American holiday items and handmade Russian
crafts will be on sale, and visitors can also take part
in master classes and performances. Homemade pies,
soups and treats will also be available. On Dec. 14, the
children of St. Andrews and the Moscow Protestant
Chaplaincy will put on a joint Christmas pageant at
15:00, and the chaplaincy will hold a traditional service
of lessons and carols at 18:30. Services will be held at
16:00 and 11:15 on Christmas Eve and at 08:30 and
11:00 on Christmas Day. The chaplain will also host an
open house at 19:00 on Boxing Day. “We want to tell
the community that there is a lot going on at St. Andrews and everyone is welcome,” said Rev’d Fairclough.
Visit www.moscowanglican.org or www.facebook.
com/moscowanglican to keep up with the latest
events going on at St. Andrews.

December 2014 – January 2015

23

Where to eat

Where to eat
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans.
Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill
up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book
in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars
and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one
Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for
good service only - around ten percent is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
€ - 0 - 400Rbl
€€ 400 - 800Rbl
€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl
€€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian
Cafe Chekhov
Set right next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here is
inspired by the great playwright’s era. The dining room is
decorated in beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses wear
contemporary costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new Russian cuisine’, although in our book there’s nothing Russian
about pasta and ruccola. Their version of borsch with apples
in it is however a welcome innovation.QKamergersky per.
3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafechekhov.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGSW
Cafe Pushkin
This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and just as
popular with local business men as passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but at one time it was the city’s only upper class
restaurant where you could eat European standard food.
The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on
the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a
restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid
view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.
ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 23:30. €€€€. PAVEGW
Dacha na Pokrovke
The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for
simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings.
Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval
mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet
and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery

SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

24 Moscow In Your Pocket

of the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly
has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple
Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque
grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent
shashlik. Live music most evenings.QЕ-3, Pokrovsky bul.
16-18 bldg. 4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.
ru. Open 12:00 - 04:30. €€. PAESW
Odessa Mama
Odessa Mama offers a taste of every Russian’s idealized
childhood cuisine. Drawing inspiration from the slightly
raffish Ukrainian port that launched a thousand summer holiday memories, it presents a range of childhood
favorites in an atmosphere that has had crowds flocking
to the large dining hall near Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a
nod to Odessa’s Jewish heritage brings a couple of items
that you won’t find in your staff canteen - the hummus,
currently Moscow’s most fashionable dish, is worth a
look. If you grew up in the USSR, this is like going back
to your carefree childhood; if you didn’t it’s maybe a bit
difficult to see what the fuss is about.QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 964
647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€.
PTAVEGSW

Asian and Indian
Darbars at Starosadsky
Darbars is known for the authentic fresh Indian food which
at one time could only be found in the hotel Sputnik. Since
they took over the famous and popular Maharaja restaurant, you can now find them in the centre too. The chef
and staff are the same as in the Maharaja and continue
their tradition of renowned Indian hospitality, welcoming
you with a complimentary crispy papadum starter. Follow this with a wide choice of meat, fish and vegetarian
dishes all prepared according to traditional methods, and
to whatever level of spiciness takes your fancy. Also at Hotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, 16th floor, (metro Leninsky pr.)
.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495
963 757 02 90, www.darbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
PAVGS
Tan
Sometimes it can be hard to find a really good Chinese
restaurant, and not just in Moscow, but anywhere. Tan,
however, just off Triumphalnaya Square, bucks this trend.
The menu boasts a huge choice of high quality traditional
Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern
adaptations and as a vast selection of teas. The service is
impeccable, the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the
sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the
house pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group
of friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate
a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 787 51 88, www.restorantan.ru. Open 24hrs.
€€. PAGSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Tibet Himalaya
The Tibet Himalayan is no secret to the expat community
as the long-standing venue for the Tuesday night “Curry
Club.” What’s more, it offers a Buddha bellyfilling, valuefor-money business lunch of which the Dalai Lama himself
would approve! Alhough far from the Himalayan mountains, this colourful basement restaurant brings a note of
tranquillity to the bustling metropolis. A different menu
each weekday, with soup, bread, a choice of starter and
main course (often yak meat), rice, dessert, and a drink to
wash it down. Vegetarian and fish options are available, too.
A rare opportunity to try Kalmyk specialities a la carte. Also
at pr. Mira 79 (metro Rizhskaya).QC-2, Shopping centre
Nikolskaya Plaza (1st floor), ul. Nikolskaya 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 21, www.tibethimalaya.ru.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEGSW
ZeNQ
Well hidden in the bottom left end of the upscale Nikolskaya shopping centre, ZenQ is a perfectly accomplished
little Japanese joint. As well as the usual popular rolls and
sashimi, they have a wide selection of huge soups, some
of which are very spicy. There’s also an abundance of
good traditional meat and rice options to choose from.
The business lunch here is great value for the area and
Japanese embassy staff can often be spotted tucking in
to their meals.QC-2, Shopping centre Nikolskaya Plaza
(1st floor), Nikolskaya ul. 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495
641 32 02. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €.
PAVGSW

Beer Restaurants
Kozlovica
Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub
from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden
furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech
food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied
by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky
Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour.
QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAVSW
Pilsner Paveletskaya
Already seeing almost three million people through its
doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has
sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head
chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy
Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer
sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice
of other specialties and large salads are on offer as well.
Also at Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya TverskayaYamskaya ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2
(Polyanka), Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD-5,
Ozerkovskaya nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
951 86 33, www.pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€.
PAGSW
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russian cuisine
Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasantfare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and
other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what
that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop) and it usually
finds its way into everything.

Bliny and snacks
Snacks (zakuski) are very popular and include all
manner of pickled things as well as small open sandwiches (buterbrod). Pancakes (bliny) are very popular and may come with savoury fillings such as ham
(vetchina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), mushrooms (griby) or sour cream (smetana) or with sweet filling such
as honey (myod) or condensed milk (sgushchonka).
Soups and salads
Russians are big on soup and there are literally hundreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian
soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch.
Ukha a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is
another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup
Solyanka.
Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them
and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic
Russian salad is Olivye - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas
and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam
ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or
crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy which translates as
‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad consisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and
beetroot.
Main dishes
Pelmeni - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and
served with sour cream. Varenki are the same but
stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek versions (manty) are slightly bigger and often steamed,
while the Georgian versions (khinkali) are huge and
eaten with the hands.
Beef stroganoff - a Russian classic, famous across the
world. Kotlety - little meat patties usually made with
minced beef (govyadina) or pork (svinina). Frikadelki
are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice
and meat and usually served with a sauce.
December 2014 – January 2015

25

Where to eat

Where to eat

Receipt from the chef
Robert Masopust, brand
chef of the “Pilsner. Czech
Beer Pub” chain, would
like to wish all our readers a very happy holiday
season and to share with
you his favorite Christmas
carp recipe.

Ingredients:
Carp - 2 kg
Almond - 10
Lemon - 1
Walnut - 5
Carrots - 150 g
Thyme
Celery - 100 g
Dark beer - 1 liter
Spring onion - 30 g
Pryanik - 1
Sugar - 20 g
Red wine - 100 ml
Prunes - 12
Lingonberry jam - 20 g
Raisins - 40 g
Preparation:
A fillet of carp is perfect for this dish. Salt it, marinate it in
lemon juice and put into the fridge for approximately 30
minutes while you prepare the sauce. Cut the carrot and
the celery stem very thinly, and separate the vegetables
into 2 parts. One part is sautéed in vegetable oil while adding spring onion to it. Black pepper and allspice, ginger,
cloves and a bay leaf are perfect if you want to spice up
the dish a little. You will also need sugar and several lemon
pieces. Afterwards, add the raisins and the prunes, peeled
almonds, walnuts and fresh thyme. On a separate frying
pan add the remaining carrot, celery and prunes, as well as
the almonds, raisins and walnuts. Pour the dark beer into
the second frying pan, add salt and boil for about 15 minutes. Cut the carp fillet into proportional pieces and put
them on the second frying pan with the vegetables. Shred
the pryanik into the marinade. Boil it a little and strain
through a sieve into the frying pan with the carp. Add
some fresh thyme and put it into the oven for 20 minutes
at 150 degrees. Place the frying pan with the ready fish
onto the stove, pour in the red wine, add the lingonberry
jam and serve immediately.

Cafes and Bakeries
Bulka
Although the staff are smiling away and the interior is a fashionable minimalist leather and brown, full glass frontage affair, you may prefer just to pop in here and take something to
go, given that with the ovens and glass surround it has the potential to get very stuffy. If it isn’t too hot though, by all means
settle in and enjoy a fantastic range of pastries - the fruit pies
are incredibly rich, and neither the tartly sweet creations nor
the fresh bread that goes into the sandwiches can be faulted.
In fact everything laid out in the endless display counter is as
good as it looks. QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 19, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 624 95 57, www.bulkabakery.ru. Open 08:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €. PASW
26 Moscow In Your Pocket

Coffee Pyu
One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn
left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic
coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as
delicious cakes and homemade main meals to enjoy. In a
confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which
is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and
sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact
the place is so laidback, you almost get the feeling they
wouldn’t even mind if you did.QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 9
bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83, www.
coffee-piu.com. Cafe 08:00 - 23:00. Sat. and Sun. 10:00
- 23:00. Beauty Salon 10:00 - 22:00. €. PAGW

Khachapuri
An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music
in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The
khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite
OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian
cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always
get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed
down nicely with homemade fruit drinks.QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66
56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00
- 23:00. €. PAVEGSW

Jeffrey’s Coffee
In Jeffrey’s you pay for the time you spend at this American
coffee bar. Their professional barista prepares great drinks
and during the day you can sit and relax and perhaps even
get a little work done. In the evening this bar becomes
jazzy, with live music and a homey atmosphere. You can
buy a guest card for 350 rubles and spend the whole day
enjoying coffee, tea, cold drinks, sweets and snacks.QD2, Ul. Maroseyka 15, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 495 623 87
77, www.jeffreyscoffee.ru. Open 08:00 - 23.00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. €. PAGW

Noev Kovcheg
The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and even a
pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow’s finest. The venue was opened on the 17th of the 7th
month - the day when Noah’s ark is said to have ran aground.
The menu offers many classic shish kebab dishes, backed up
by a plethora of fine wines.QD-3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9,
MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVGSW

Madame Boulanger
This quaint little French-style bakery and cake shop sells
all manner of fresh baked breads and savoury snacks such
as quiches, sandwiches, salads and pies. On the sweet side
there’s plenty to tickle your fancy, from classic French éclairs
and handmade chocolates to macaroons and, of course, the
ubiquitous croissants. If you choose to eat in you’ll have the
extra delight of dining from gorgeous mismatched antique
fine china crockery as you admire the charming interior, or
opt to sit out on the summer terrace with views of the boulevard. Musicians and show-offs alike are welcome to serenade the other guests on the piano.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12,
MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01, www.madameboulanger.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. PAGS

Caucasian
Gayane’s
An informal restaurant serving real Armenian home food.
Great examples of the region’s specialities can all be tasted here, like for example the flat stuffed breads zhingalov
khats and the delicious lamadjo as well as filling spiced
minced meatballs (kyufta). Matsoni (a kind of fermented
yoghurt sauce) is an essential accompaniment. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back
and relaxing with fine cognac is a sure sign of Gayane’s
authenticity. Adventurous diners may want to test themselves on the unusual khash soup made from various cow
bits and said to be the ‘food of heroes’. The street is located directly across the Garden ring from Smolenskaya (dark
blue line) metro station.QA-3, 2-y Smolensky per. 1/4,
MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 11 60, www.gayanes.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Saperavi
Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings. No tacky water features here, thank
you very much: instead it’s bright colours, stylish lighting,
comfy chairs and a little light house music. The menu does
feature good, solid fare like an excellent meaty take on the
classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri, but also
adds its own twists on things, as for example with the mint
and cheese khachapuri. They also do an great job of explaining the ins and outs of all the exciting dishes on offer.QА-1,
1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 623 89 93, www.saperavicafe.com. Open 11:00
- 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAVGSW

European
Brix
If it is fine wine you seek, look no further. There are few better bars where you can sip a good wine in good company
than at Brix 2. Whilst the bar’s chic character may match
its classy customers - neither reflect its modest prices.
With wines so well-selected and well-priced, what’s the
catch? We still haven’t found one!QB-2, Maly Kozykhinsky pereulok 10/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 95 94,
www.brix-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAW
Coin
Despite its name, this former printhouse offers a very reasonably priced varied menu of fantastic European food and boasts
a drinks menu for any occasion. Owner Alexander Shikin has
plans to introduce concerts and exhibitions to this vast, stylishly renovated industrial space where there are already multiple screens for sports viewing.QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 71/5,
bldg. 2, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 67 80, www.
coin-hall.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGW
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Funky Lab
Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange combo, but not at Funky Lab. What’s really in a name? This restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of attention being
placed on how it is presented to you. Why read from a menu
when there is a tablet available with pictures of all dishes?
Don’t be surprised when you pick out a dish here just because
of the way it looks. But the best thing about Funky is that
while presenting it all in a beautiful and funny way, the food
is just plain good, with a relaxed atmosphere, friendly service and very reasonable prices in a down-to-earth location.
QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel.
(+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylab-bar.com. Open 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. €€. PAEGSW
Lucien
Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the
Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The
story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted
by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous
Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu you are
met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine.
Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked
fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit,
sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the
mouthwatering list goes on. QUl. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg.
1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGW
December 2014 – January 2015

27

Where to eat
Scandinavia
An icon of Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has been providing service with a smile for almost twenty years now. This
restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such as
gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is
from the north, though: their bar menu also features a hefty
and very popular burger. The calm international atmosphere
means there are more than a few suits and ties dropping in
after work and especially on Fridays service can get slow.
QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
PTAGSW
Tapa de Comida
Viva Espana! Step off the mean streets of Moscow and say
hola to the enchanting Tapa de Comida. Set up like a real Valencian cantina, this place looks and feels Spanish inside and
out, complete with beautiful tiling, roughly painted mustard
walls, football scarves, happy locals sipping wine at the bar
and long Mediterranean style windows.QC-1, Trubnaya ul.
20/2, bldg. 3, MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 608 20 07, www.
tapasbar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€€. PAESW
Ugolek
Ugolek might sit on a row of restaurants on Bolshaya Nikitskaya, but it is absolutely unique, and well worth taking the
time to check out. In fact, given how popular it has become,
it is a good idea to book ahead. Dishes are cooked on an
open charcoal oven, giving the food a delicious smokey and
home made flavour. The interior decor follows the same
theme, with low sofas, mismatching wooden tables and log
fires creating a simple, cosy ambience.QC-2, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 12, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 02 11. Open
10:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 10:00 - 02:00. €€€. PTSW

Where to eat
International
Art Clumba
Right at the hub of this art and design complex, Art Clumba
is a restaurant-café-concert space which sets everything at
the right level. The soundtrack is their own carefully selected mix, the menu covers a wide range of cuisines and manages to serve them up with a simple twist that lets the wellsourced ingredients shine. The whole layout itself is a gently
subdued blonde-beige combo highlighting the building’s
unique architectural features.QArtPlay na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10, MKurskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 678 02 25, www.art-clumba.ru/. Open 10:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAEGSW
Delicatessen
Delicatessen definitely falls into the category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20, veer left and you
will find a colourful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for
finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous
antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s
favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade
pasta and more - the menu is a success. Some say the pizzas
are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad.QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PAEGW
Deti Raika
It’s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to
the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with
a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and
journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki
or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and
the owner’s favourite film. The varied menu offers anything
from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some
tasty fish dishes. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAEW
Funny Cabany
The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive
barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from
homemade sausages and burgers, to succulent tender
steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non
meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous
portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident
micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a
restaurant to miss out on.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5,
bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www.
funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri and
Sat until last guest. €€. PTAEGW

Sukhoe - Dry
Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet
Sladkoe - Sweet
28 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Izia Grill
What started as a hipster craze seems to be going mainstream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi and Izia
Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the
trend. It’s a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site
of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new décor
is hardly revolutionary the change in cuisine is striking.
Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get
a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions,
but usually have snack-sized price tags attached.QD-2,
Bol. Lublyanka ul. 24, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 623 08
48, www.izia-grill.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 06:00. €. PAEGSW
Jerome & Patricе
Those of you who have had the pleasure to enjoy dinning at one of the Ginza Project’s numerous restaurants
will be pleased to discover yet another restaurant to treat
your taste buds. Jerome&Patrice takes a new look at authentic French provincial cooking. The head chefs have
taken care to preserve French traditions while taking the
best out of modern trends in international cuisine. The
establishment has magnificent views onto the square
and comfortable seating and lovely lighting.QD-3, Slavyanskaya pl. 2, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 784 69 69,
www.ginzaproject.ru/MOSCOW/Restaurants/jeromepartice. 12:00 - 24:00. Fri and Sat 12:00 till last guest.
€€€. PAGW
Kon-Tiki
The younger sister of the Tiki Bar (the first Hawaiian bar in
Moscow), although Kon-Tiki is more of a restaurant than
a bar, it is still definitely one of the more exotic places in
Moscow. So if you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit
of fun, look no further than Kon-Tiki and it’s island grill.
Guests are surrounded by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an impressive aquarium that runs the length of
the wall - this is truly Hawaii in Moscow. During the weekend the restaurant is always buzzing with the music and
energy from Caribbean and Latino themed parties.QC-2,
Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7, bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel.
(+7) 495 767 87 20, www.kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs.
€€. PTAEGSW
Laffa Laffa
Laffa Laffa is the latest addition to Moscow’s burgeoning
gourmet street food scene. Two branches opened almost
simultaneously in October and have quickly established a
reputation for elevating the humble ‘shaurma’ wrap into a
culinary treat. The Middle-east themed cafes pride themselves on preparing fresh food fast - bread is cooked to order
and tender meat and fresh vegetables are always to hand.
As Moscow steadily falls in love with falafel, this is definitely
a spot worth checking out - and for vegetarians struggling
to find reliable options in a notoriously carnivorous city, this
is definitely a spot worth checking out for its impressive array of tasty meat-free dips as well as its veggie falafel dishes.
QB-2, Mal. Bronnaya 4, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 975 55
45. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGW
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Sunday Brunch
AZIMUT Moscow
Olympic Hotel
Looking for a brunch
place in Moscow? Look
no further! Azimut Moscow Olympic Hotel on
Olimpiyskiy Prospekt is
continuing this wonderful tradition throughout the winter. Every Sunday guests
can lounge around and socialize with family and friends
while enjoying a late breakfast. The menu changes every
week so you’ll never get bored of the selection of traditional Russian dishes at the generous buffet table, which
consists of cold starters and salads, a caviar station with
blini, a wide assortment of French and Spanish cheeses,
meat and fish dishes, delightful desserts and fresh fruit.
The price of the buffet also includes alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages. To get a 20% discount, book 72
hours in advance!QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt
Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com.
Sunday 12:30 - 16:00. Brunch 3,200Rbl and 2,600Rbl
in case of booking 72 hours in advance. Children till 6
years free of charge and children from 6 till 12 years
receive 50% discount.
Porto Maltese in Vegas Crocus City
Ceilings covered with sail cloth that looks like it’s moving
in the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls adorned
with paintings of maritime settings - you’ll certainly feel all
at sea once you step into the newly opened Porto Maltese
restaurant at the Vegas Crocus City shopping mall. This is
a perfect place to wind down after a long day of shopping
with family or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood are laid
out on a bed of ice next to the kitchen for guests to pick
out what they want to eat. Exceptional service, an original
and exclusive approach to seafood and a lengthy wine list
are sure to impress even the most experienced haute cuisine connoisseurs.QVegas Crocus City, MKAD 65-66 km,
4th floor, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 236 10 15, www.
portomaltese.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 24:00. €€. TNGW
Sky Lounge
Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you
can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic
seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance.
Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind
panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience
by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide
range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly
delightful and the portions are more generous than you
will see almost anywhere else.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd
floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75,
www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00
- 01:00. €€€. PAEGSW
December 2014 – January 2015

29

Where to eat
Townhouse
A welcoming interior, unpretentious European chic and a
menu borrowing something from the cuisines of every continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and locals
alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled
so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed!
The warm octopus salad is the most delightful starter for any
meal. An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed
in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area.QD5, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina
11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW

Italian
Flotilla Radisson restaurant
One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to
know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable
vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian accent as it plies its route along the Moskva, taking in a series
of key city sights. Having invited many guests to Moscow
to join us on the route, it’s regularly got the thumbs-up,
and with winter it’s time to start thinking about breaking
the ice - literally and figuratively - over a tasty risotto on
the water.QA-3, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras
Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya,
www.radisson-cruise.ru. €€€. PAEGW
Mamma Giovanna
This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t
make the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks
in vistas it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate
atmosphere. The crispy pizzas here are particularly delectable and fortunately the place is laidback enough that
you can go to town on them with your hands. The mains
such as the excellent grilled tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly be filling, although desserts are
markedly dull in comparison.QC-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 87 20, www.mamma-giovanna.ru. Open 07:30
- 23:00. €€. PTAGSW
Osteria della Piazza Bianca
A relaxed Italian atmosphere combined with European comfort makes the Osteria della Piazza Bianca a special place in
Moscow. The panoramic views and open kitchen - where
Italian chefs prepare your meal right in front of you - create
an inviting ambience. Choosing between the various fresh
Italian dishes can be hard enough, but luckily the sommelier
will be on hand in case you hesitate about the wine.QA-1,
Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. +7 495 508 25
17, www.osteriabianca.ru. 24hrs. PAVGW

To read about even more restaurants
in Moscow and find out about all the latest gigs
check out our website moscow.inyourpocket.com
30 Moscow In Your Pocket

Nightlife
Osteria Uno
With a kitchen staffed by three Italian expats who have been
cooking for years in some of Moscow’s fanciest restaurants,
you know you are not going to go far wrong. Osteria’s look
is a wholly Western brand of toned down informal chic
- concrete walls with the menus scrawled across them, a
huge bustling bar and open kitchen dominating the centre of the glass walled room, and surprisingly comfortable
deckchair style chairs, are all seriously on trend. Besides the
buzzing atmosphere though, the real attraction is the great
food. Imaginative daily specials from the chef, fantastic fresh
pizzas, imaginative twists on Italian classics and oh-so traditional homemade pasta make returning again irresistible.
QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 2, MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 507 73
74, www.osteriauno.ru. 09:00 - 24:00, Fri and Sat 10:00
till last guest. €€€. PAGW
Tarantino
Looking for an unpretentious place where it’s all about the
food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best
with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street
but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other
Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is
homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal
with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there’s an extensive “mozzarella bar” where you can
choose what you’d like on your plate or in a doggy bag.
QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEGW

Steak Houses
Butchery Bar and Grill
A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks
and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection
leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurant’s culinary focus.
The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the
feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete
with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to
happily relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1,
MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom.
ru/page-butchery. Open 06:30 - 4:00. €€. PAGW
GOODBEEF
This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their
meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet
mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it
arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and
overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices
are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be
sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The
business lunch is particularly good value for money.QD-2,
Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7)
495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
€€. PAEGSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com

The original city that doesn’t sleep, Moscow has everything
going on under those bright neon signs. Whether you’re after
an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control
policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingey
dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole
up til the wee small hours, you won’t be disappointed.

live music CLUBS
B2 Club
One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live
jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors
holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000
people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of
music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage
to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is.
Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear
some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices.
As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge,
rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke,
billiards, sushi, a cinema and a courtyard - a veritable one
stop shop for a busy night out.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul.
8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.
b2club.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEG
DeFAQto
This third venue in the FAQ chain of alternative bars is a
bit of a jumble of styles and ideas. Like a strange cross between an English pub and an American bar, with a stage
that would suit stand-up comedy well, you get the feeling
that something is about to happen here, although it never
actually does. The music is similarly confused, although the
food is reliable and the booth seating in particular is nice for
smaller groups. Apparently people dance here sometimes
too, although we still haven’t figured out how and where
that’s possible.QD-2, Ul. Bol. Lubyanka 30/2, bldg. 1,
MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 44 97, www.defaqto.
ru. Open Mon - Thu 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24hrs.
PAEGW
Duma
This place is not merely literally underground, it’s also
through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley.
Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some
decent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo.
The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing
machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art
films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls.
In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place
to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg. 3V (entrance from
Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11
19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. AEW

Dva Piva Pazhalusta! –
Two beers please!
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Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da
Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and
club, attracting a younger and older crowd in equally
large numbers. With live music and drinks flowing,
you’ll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even
a Russian toast; it all adds to the atmosphere. Their
salty snacks really hit the spot so don’t worry about
that hunger craving after a few drinks, they have the
perfect cure!QD-3, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1,
MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jaoda.ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 08:00.
PAEW
Krisis Zhanra
Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never
seems to get old or lose its appeal. Known for its popular
lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for
dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best
described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is
where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its
format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. On the recent night that we went,
we were luckily able to get a table and were treated to service
and food that usually costs a whole lot more in a location like
this. The soups, steaks and seafood dishes our table enjoyed
were all of great value and the alcohol selection was fairly
priced.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 06:00. PENGW
December 2014 – January 2015

31

Nightlife
Masterskaya
Masterskaya is a hippy inhabited ex-banya that looks part
Viennese coffee house and part bohemian artist’s studio.
There’s live concerts most evenings and dancing later on,
while during the day dreadlocked student types sit and
ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled room
from their seclusion of their laptops. On the ground floor
you will also find their sister establishment Lady Jane which
serves excellent international food early in the evenings and
incredibly loud house music later on.QС-2, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, www.
mstrsk.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW

Bars
Bar Strelka
The main headquarters for Moscow’s hipster contingent,
this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become
a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since
it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup
where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting
you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro
mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically
pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or
completely empties depending on the weekend DJs.QC-4,
Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14,
bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.
barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat
12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTALEGW

Nightlife
Kvartira 44
The main draw of this branch of the popular french style
cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace,
which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that
in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap
bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow,
and there’s no piano, but despite that it’s still one of the
nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm
and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in.QC-4, Ul. Mal.
Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34,
www.kv44.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAEW
Mayak
Located on top of the Mayakovsky Theater, no wonder it is
known for attracting the Moscow intelligentsia. Frequented
by journalists, actors and writers, it’s the type of place where
‘just a quiet’ drink can go on for hours and include numerous vodka shots and the occasional sing-along. Tables are
filled almost every night of the week lending it an energetic
crowded coffee house buzz, but luckily the service is not
affected by the large clientele volume. Sometimes professional musicians passing through for a drink on a weekend
tinkle the ivories of the ancient piano, but otherwise there’s
no background music only lively chatter.QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 74 49, www.
clubmayak.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW
MyBar
This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow
cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking
for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well
and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some
fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s
glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection
varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with
some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from
rock and blues bands.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su.
Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAEG
The Hudson Bar
This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White
Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held
back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some
elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those
arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to
colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and
dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach spurs great results.
The crowd is mixed and friendly and the hostess is there to
help not hinder. A myriad of sports channels (including US
ones) and happy hour deals are yet more bonuses, although
unfortunately for inexplicable reasons the sports channels
sadly don’t always work.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru.
Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW

32 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Tiki-Bar
In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow
Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspiration for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan
furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken directly from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the
Americas at the beginning of the 20th century. For those
who want a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices
of rum as well as an exotic choice of cocktails - definitely
a tropical menu! Tiki is a good party place, especially for
those who love to dance, hosting many Latin American
themed parties along with masterclasses in Latin American, Brazilian and salsa dancing.QA-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 02,
www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PGW

Clubs
Club Garage
One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998),
Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday
/ Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties.
Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah
menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The
crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of
the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly
atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night
out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of
Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from
the end of April until October.QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8,
MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.
ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW
Club Roxbury
In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury
and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests
sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most
beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and
sensory overload.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open
22:00 - 07:00. PAW
Coyote Ugly
Part of the international chain that inspired the film of
the same name, this is a bar where the girls rule the roost
and you’d better beware, these are no mere go-go dancers, they have attitude. Yes they can squeeze a lemon
for your tequila from their cleavage, but they also have
plenty of personality. Girls are allowed to dance on the
huge American style bar, security make sure the men keep
their hands in their pockets and the soundtrack is danceable and fun rock and pop. Happy hours bring in a mixed
crowd and if it’s too loud upstairs there’s a friendly little
bar hidden down in the basement.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky
Most 6/3, MKuznetsky most, tel. (+7) 495 692 03 97,
www.coyoteugly.ru. Open 19:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 18:00
- 06:00. PA
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December 2014 – January 2015

33

Nightlife
It’s hard to imagine now that in its
first, 12th century incarnation, Moscow’s Kremlin was a modest wooden stockade that would have taken
no more than a couple of minutes
to walk around. Let’s take a closer
look at the citadel we see today.

VodoVzvodnaya Tower
The “water-lifting” tower, so named because at one point
it supplied water for the rest of the complex, overlooks
the Moskva river from the south-western corner of the
Kremlin. First built at the end of the 15th century, the
tower we see today dates to 1819, when restoration on
it was completed after it had been destroyed by Napoleon’s retreating army.
34 Moscow In Your Pocket

Grand Kremlin Palace
Constructed in the middle of the 19th century, at one time the
Palace served as the official residence for the Imperial family during their visits to Moscow. Its architect was Konstantin
Thon, who also designed the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour.
It is said that one of the principal reasons for the palace’s commissioning was so that the Kremlin as a whole would not be
outdone by the new cathedral just along the river.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Blagoveshchensky Cathedral
One of Moscow’s oldest surviving churches, Blagoveshchensky was built towards the end of the 15th century by masters
from Pskov, at a time when the construction at the Kremlin
was entrusted mainly to Italian architects. It was from its roof
that in March 1584 Ivan the Terrible saw the cross-shaped
comet which he was convinced foretold his demise – a few
days later he suffered a massive stroke while playing chess.
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Tainitskaya Tower
The oldest of the Kremlin’s 20 towers, the name derives
from the Russian word taina, or “secret”, a reference to
the concealed well and escape tunnel to the river that
were built into it for use in the event of a siege. How wise
it was to actually name the tower after this feature is one
of the great unanswered questions of Russian mediaeval
history.
December 2014 – January 2015

35

Features

Bogdarnya
Autumn may be over, but that doesn’t mean that it’s time
to bid farewell to fun, wholesome and revitalizing outdoor activities. If you need a break from constant meetings, traffic, calls, emails, car alarms going off, drilling and
everything else that big city life entails regardless of the
season, then maybe it’s time to consider a little trip about
120km east of Moscow. There you will find Bogdarnya, a
beautiful and welcoming agricultural and tourist complex
that lets big city dwellers get back to nature, breathe
some fresh country air and try a taste of agritourism.

This 400-hectare riverside property, founded by Englishman John Kopiski and his Russian wife Nina, is located
in picturesque countryside and forest. The Kopiskis are
devout Orthodox Christians, with a mission to promote
healthy living. Here, anyone and everyone can experience life on a real working farm that supplies meat to its
own farm shop in Moscow. Here you can learn all about
meat production from paddock to plate, watch cheese
making, milk the cows, pet the goats, feed Boris the boar
and engage yourelf in myriad other forms of educational
“agritainment”. Above all, everyone who visits Bogdarnya is made to feel welcome in the true traditions of
Russian hospitality.
Eating, drinking and relaxing are not the only things
guests can do during their stay at Bogdarnya. Plenty
of activities to suit just about anyone’s taste can be
organized no matter what time of year you plan your
visit. As winter approaches and the temperature starts
to drop, some recreational activities can actually keep
36 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see

you warm while you’re having fun! With the first snows
are forecast soon, now is the perfect time to enjoy
some cross-country skiing, skate on the frozen lake or
ride the ice-slide!
Horseback rides through the forest are a wonderful
way to see nature and be at one with yourself and your
thoughts. If you’ve never ridden a horse but would like
to learn, why not take a lesson? Don’t feel like being at
the reins but still fancy a romantic ride through nature?
No problem! The experienced and friendly staff at Bogdarnya are always delighted to take guests around in
horse-drawn carriages or sleds. When the horses get
tired, Bogdarnya also has a wide selection of quads and
jeeps for adrenaline-filled forest exploration, with the
chance to camp overnight somewhere tranquil and far
removed from civilization.
Thrill-seeking aside, the complex also hosts children’s
camps, career guidance programmes for school students,
plus corporate events and banquets for up to 150 people,
training and seminars. Russian holidays are celebrated in
fairytale folksy fashion with traditional costumes, music,
dancing and much good old-fashioned merriment samovar, mulled wine and shashlik being at the heart of
many such festivities. A 19-room on-site hotel is available
for those who just don’t want to leave (and rightly so!). All
rooms have a private WC and shower.
A visit to Bogdarnya is an entirely wholesome retreat
that benefits both body and soul.
QVladimir Oblast, Petushki, Krutovo Village 22B
(121km from Moscow), tel. (+7) 903 961 58 80, www.
bogdarnya.ru. Getting there: take a train from Kursky
railway station to Petushki. From Petushki take a taxi
to Bogdarnya.

moscow.inyourpocket.com

The Kremlin
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively
ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking
the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In
the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin,
the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient
city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of
the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red
walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical,
through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet
modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there
are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the
citadel an essential conquest.
Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took
Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are
a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having
bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom
located near the ticket office, under the gate.
A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself,
along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient
buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a
separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which
will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be
purchased before you enter the Kremlin.
Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s
Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for
which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to
check before you enter the Kremlin.
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Inside the Kremlin
Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected
in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to
Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it
with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework.
Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral,
where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was
built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are
considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow
given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey
Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and
Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.
Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its
name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes
are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now
Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church
notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine
icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the
15th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the
Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest
and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned
Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s
horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers
now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes.
The cossacks brought them back after they caught up
with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter
service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.
December 2014 – January 2015

37

What to see
NEXT TO RED SQUARE
Alexandrovsky Gardens
The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to
take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of
the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight
of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to
the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change
ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal
flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
Kremlin Armoury
You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th
Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s
gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are
the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely
glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on
them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin.
QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49,
www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The
Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30,
16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket
office in Alexandrovsky sad.
Lenin Mausoleum
On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the
founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you
forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No
bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure
you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead
but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.
St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor)
Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was
built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat
of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s
position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from
outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also
worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces
of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a
stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated
with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one
direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes
above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit
inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red
Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.
saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl.
38 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see
Churches
and Monasteries
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look
like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks
of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the
first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny
beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a
close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built in
honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you
can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets
built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had
originally planned for. QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours
in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl.
Donskoy Monastery
The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept
monastery, originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the main
entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you enter.
Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church
until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very popular with
pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century miracle working
icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery
grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of the Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw
of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. QDonskaya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 02 63, www.
donskoi.org. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

Novodevichy Monastery
Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific
place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by
the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion
globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524.
It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned
his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the
Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful
cloister with an impressive icon collection.QNovodevichy
proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
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Museums
All-Russian Decorative Art Museum
Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than
200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Russia.
There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and
figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet
period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse
and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays
interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of
the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries.QC-1,
Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609
01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and
last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Children
till 7 years old free entrance. NK
Andrey Rublyev Museum
of Ancient Russian Culture and Art
Housed in the grounds of
Andronikov Monastery, this
museum is dedicated to
the art of the Russian icon
throughout the ages. Although none of the famed
Rublyev’s work is here, the
icons in the collection are
still beautiful. Preservation
is paramount for icons and many are still shining brightly
despite their age. Spread out over three floors of the restored St. Michael’s chapel, a ghostly feeling still inhabits
the place.QAndronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad Ilyicha,
tel. (+7) 495 678 14 67, www.rublev-museum.ru. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00 Closed Wed and last Fri
of the month. Admission 350Rbl.
Institute of Russian Realist Art
If you are a fan of realist art
and haven’t yet exhausted
your interest with a visit
to the Tretyakov Gallery,
then it is well worth making the trek down here to
see Russia’s single largest
private collection of realist art. Located in a former
cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over
four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale
classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by
masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair,
poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall
of communism.QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre,
bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00
- 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.
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ride an icebreacker

Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow
Equipped with ice-breaking technology, these huge
fancy yachts are the only river cruisers running all year
around. The round trip journey takes two and a half
hours and floats past all the big sights like the White
House, Novodevichy monastery and the Kremlin.
There’s a large open air observation deck up top, while
the main body of the ship houses a restaurant with a
dance floor for a romantic post dinner dance. For a particularly romantic experience take one of the evening
boats and admire the bright lights of the city skyline at
night. Note that you can also join and depart the cruise
from the pier in Gorky Park (metro Park Kultury), although it is advisable to check the departure times first.
QA-3, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier,
MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radissoncruise.ru. From pier hotel Ukraina boats leave: Mon
- Wed 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, Thu - Fri 15:00, 17:00, 20:00,
21:00, Sat - Sun 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 (2,5
hrs). From pier Gorky Park boats leave: Mon - Fri
16:00, 20:00 (2,5 hrs), Sat 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00,
21:00 (2,5 hrs) and Sun 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00
(2,5hrs). It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Tickets
for 2,5 hrs boat trips 900Rbl, children from 6 till 12
years old 650Rbl and children till 5 years old free of
charge. Tickets for 1,5 hrs boat trips (only from pier
Gorky Park) 650 Rbl, children from 6 till 12 years old
450Rbl, children till 5 years old free of charge. First
class 2,000Rbl. PAUKW
Jewish Museum and Tolerance Center
This large and engaging museum dedicated to the complex
history of Russian Jewry, is thoroughly modern in approach,
favouring personal testimony, archival video footage and
interactive displays. The role of Russian Jewry in public life
in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries is particularly well
presented as is the fate of Soviet Jews and the role of Jewish
soldiers during World War II. Those expecting to find just a
stark representation of pogroms, holocaust, hardships and
suffering will be pleasantly surprised to find Russian Jewish
history presented as something much more complex, filled
with both struggles and achievements.QUl. Obraztsova
11, bldg. 1А, MMarina Roscha, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 50,
www.jewish-museum.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission 400Rbl.
December 2014 – January 2015

39

What to see
Moscow Multimedia Art Museum
This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on
photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of
the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central
hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its
clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of
New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. A great addition to
Moscow’s burgeoning contemporary art scene.QB-4, Ul.
Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11
00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl. TAW
State Central Museum of Contemporary
Russian History
Start early in the day with
this one. There’s a whole
century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen
and absorbed. Housed in a
1780s mansion and former
premises of the Moscow
English Club, this grand
dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that
history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically
situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t
linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too
tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and
the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the
Beatles.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100
- 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. N
State Historical Museum
This museum consists of
two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian
history from the ice ages
of the mammoths right up
to the 19th century. The
first floor which runs up to
the beginning of Peter the
Great, and the 17th century
holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. The atmosphere is conducive to
both wandering and musing as the museum guides are,
lets say, a little less protective than usual. Upstairs while
it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool
historical tit bits. he elegant side of Russian life is given
slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such
as the Decembrists..QC-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the
month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl. U
40 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see
State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe
This sprawling 18th Century
countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally
rich Prince Yusupov and is
one of the quietest stately
parks within a reasonable
distance of the city. The
buildings themselves usually house historical and
contemporary exhibitions from the local scene. In the
winter it‘s a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride and there’s also plenty of stall selling
hot drinks. The formal gardens, which offer excellent views
towards the surrounding countryside, are dotted with neoclassical sculptures, hidden summer pavilions, while the
forested area leading to the small river is lovely for a lazy
stroll. GETTING THERE: From metro Tushinskaya, Rizhskaya,
Dmitrovskaya.Q5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya,
tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open
Mon - Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 21:00.
Museum open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sat and Sun and
holidays10:00 - 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last
Wed of the month. Admission park 150Rbl. Ticket for
park and museum 400 Rbl. For temporary exhibitions
you need to pay seperately. UNK

Tretyakov Gallery
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to
start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city
in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian
art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century
icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of
Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is
a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes
of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are
labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size
laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden
amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include
the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a
separate site a kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per.
10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.
tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English
audio guide 250Rbl.

The Central Museum of Musical Culture

artistic places
The Central Museum of Music’s permanent exhibition is
an impressive journey through musical instruments of the
past and from all corners of the world in all their weird and
wonderful diversity. Take a trip through Russian musical history from giant balalaikas to the famous and eerie theremin,
passing on the way hefty early record players and novelty
music boxes. The global collection includes crazy-looking
instruments from Cuba to Korea - who knew you could make
guitars from armadillos? We recommend going for a guided
tour as they’re equipped with recordings from many of the
strange inhabitants of the exhibition, which makes the experience a lot richer. As well as the permanent exhibition
there’s always another temporary one on a subject of Russian
or international music, and a whole host of events throughout the year which you can find out about on their website.
QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739
62 26, www.glinka.museum. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00
- 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 175 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50 - 250Rbl. Children till 6
years old free. TNKW
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Bulgakov House Museum - Theatre
Steeped in popular Moscow legend, this is where
Bulgakov, the author of
Master and Margarita
lived and wrote his famous novel. Today it is
an artist’s gathering place
with exhibitions of contemporary Russian artists
and a historical exhibition
dedicated to the house’s most famous inhabitant. The
resident feline Behemoth is more than fat, he is adorable and there’s even a cute cafe serving tea, coffee and
pies.QB-1, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 970 06 19, www.dombulgakova.ru. Open
13:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Admission free.
PALW

Dostoevsky Memorial Museum
Dostoevsky is usually associated with St. Petersburg but
in fact he grew up in Moscow. His father was posted to
the city’s hospital for the poor and this small apartment,
attached to the hospital, was given to him and his family. The austere rooms are demonstrative of Dostoevsky’s
lower middle class upbringing and are carefully tended
to by the Dostoevsky-loving museum staff. If you have
the time they can philosophise about the great writer for
hours. The second undecorated wing of the flat houses a
collection of banned illustrations made for his books in the
1930s as well as the desk (filled with his notes), where he
wrote the novel Brothers Karamazov.QUl. Dostoevskogo
2, MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 10 85, www.
goslitmuz.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Wed, Thu 14:00 21:00. Closed Mon and last day of the month. Admission 70 - 100Rbl. N
Gorky Memorial Museum
Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated
art nouveau architects
- Fyodor Schechtel - in
1900, the Ryabushinsky
Mansion is most famous
as the former home of
writer Maxim Gorky. This
magical building is full
of beautiful stained glass
windows, a spectacular
marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There
is extensive written material available in each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in
décor and ornaments and there are some stories about
the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about
the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head
of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from
Mayakovsky to Tolstoy.QB-2, Mal. Nikitskaya ul. 6/2,
MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru.
Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu of the
month. Admission free. N

Take note that most museum ticket offices close one hour before the official closing time.
Also remember most museums ask you to buy
an extra photography ticket if you would like to take photos or videos
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December 2014 – January 2015

41

Pskov

What to see
Lev Tolstoy Museum
Dedicated to the life of the
man behind War and Peace
and Anna Karenina, this is a
reverential place packed
with personal and literary
material. A complex and
conflicted individual, the
exhibits trace his life from
childhood to death and
the emergence of his major works. Easy to follow
due to some great carded English translations, this is a
good introduction to Tolstoy.QB-4, Ul. Prechistenka 11,
MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 74 10. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the
month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. N

Parks and Gardens
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VDNKh)
This massive complex of pavilions buildings whose glory
is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a
throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so
pavilions built to house displays of progress of the great
collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to
what is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship
Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated
to a Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex surrounded by various pavilions in different designs which
each represent a Soviet republic and its achievements.
Some weekends it is crawling with families and sports
enthusiasts. Space fans should look out for the soaring
monument to space flight and the cosmonautics museum
in its base. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they
mean this place or the metro station opposite that goes by
the same name.QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495
544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Park open 09:00 - 21:00.
Museums 11:00 - 19:00. Mon closed. Entrance park free.
Museums 0 - 300Rbl.

42 Moscow In Your Pocket

Tsaritsyno
Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of
town palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of
the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction
didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795,
after dismissing the main architect, the complex was
already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years it became
a fashionable country estate and a particular favourite
place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins.
Since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace at its heart is now
looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than
at possibly any other time during its history. The huge
gardens, meadows and woods surrounding the palace
are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya
ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.
tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00.
Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and
holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park
free. Museums 30 - 300Rbl. UK

Muzeon Park of Arts
This fascinating park is the final resting place for the
many Soviet statues evicted from Russia’s parks and
squares following the collapse of Communism. Founded
in 1992, the park has been accumulating monuments for
over 20 years, and today its collection comprises more
than 700 sculptures, including some notable pieces by
Vera Mukhina, Ivan Shadr, Yevgeny Vuchetich, Yevgeny
Chubarov and a number of other contemporary sculptors. Highlights include the huge steel sculpture of the
Soviet world, innumerable giant pedestal-less Lenins,
monuments to the Red Army, and a de-nosed Stalin. In
2013 the Krymskaya embankment became a pedestrian
zone and part of the Muzeon park. Comfortable benches,
a fountain, bicycle-hire and a cafe have transformed this
place into a year-round hangout for young and old.QB5, Krymsky Val 10, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238
33 96, www.muzeon.ru. Park open 08:00 - 22:00. Embankment open 24hrs. Admission free. Guided tours
(250 - 500Rbl) should be booked in advance (+7) 499
238 33 96.
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One of Russia’s oldest, most historically significant, yet least
well known cities: welcome to Pskov!
Situated a mere 20 kilometres from the Estonian border,
Pskov is a perfect city for those who want to explore ancient
Russian culture before heading off to the bigger centres.
The first written reference to Pskov dates back to the year
903 in the Povest Vremennykh Let (Chronicles of the Old
Years) with the marriage of Igor, prince of Kievan Rus’, to
Olga of Pskov (c. 890 – 969). Prince Igor’s bride is still honoured in the Russian Orthodox Church.
In its heyday, Pskov was a major trading hub, Kievan Rus’s
largest partner within the Hanseatic Union, and one of
the richest cities in the country. Aside from its commercial
value, Pskov was also one of the countries’ most important
fortresses, a bastion-city surrounded by five thick stone
walls, unique in contemporary Europe.
Pskov’s wealth and strategic significance earned it a fair
deal of unwelcome attention. Approximately one third
of the city’s medieval history was spent at war, including battles with Tatar-Mongol and Swedish troops. One
of the most epic battles fought near Pskov was the Battle
on the Ice, won by the legendary hero Alexander Nevsky
(c. 1120 – 1263).
More recently, Pskov bore witness to the end of the Russian
Empire, as Nicholas II (1868 – 1918) was stripped of his title
of emperor at the city’s train station. A plaque referring to
this historical moment can still be found there today.
Pskov today is not as glorious as it was a thousand years
ago, but that’s not to say that visiting the city and the wider
region would be a waste of your time – far from it. From
its old city walls to its ancient monasteries, Pskov still encapsulates some of the most fascinating aspects of Russia’s
extraordinary history.
Pskov may be the regional capital, but the smaller settlements surrounding the former fortress are just as interesting. Old Izborsk and Pechory, both situated not too far away
from Pskov proper, are must-sees when visiting the region.
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If you’re willing to spend a little more time travelling, the
Pushkin Hills should also undoubtedly be included in your
trip itinerary. With its rich history and interesting sights, the
Pskov region will provide you with more than enough to
explore.

Where to stay
No matter how long you plan to stay in Pskov, it is important to find an accommodation that suits all of your
wishes and needs. Pskov is not as accustomed to tourists
as Moscow or St. Petersburg, so do not expect to find grand
and luxurious hotels with shiny crystal chandeliers. Pskov
does, however, offer a wide selection of accommodation,
whether you are a businessman looking for a suitable place
to prepare your work, or a weary traveler looking for a roof
over your head and a pillow beneath it. We have made a list
of the best hotels currently available in Pskov.
Hotel Rizhskaya
QRizhsky pr. 25, tel. (+7) 8112 56 22 23, www.rijskaya.
ru. 265 rooms.
Old Estate Hotel & Spa
QVerkhne-Beregovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 8112 79 45 45,
www.oldestatehotel.com. 50 rooms.
Oktyabrskaya Hotel
QOktyabrsky pr. 36, tel. (+7) 8112 66 42 46, www.okthotel.ru. 120 rooms.
Hotel & Restaurant Dvor Podznoeva
QUl. Nekrasova 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. 75 rooms.
Hotel 903
QUl. M. Gorkogo 2B, tel. (+7) 8112 57 05 57, www.
pskov903.ru. 15 rooms.
Hotel Golden Embankment
QUl. Sovetskaya Naberezhnaya 2, tel. (+7) 8112 62 78
77, www.zn-hotel.ru. 15 rooms.
December 2014 – January 2015

43

Pskov
New Year in Pskov
When the end of the year
peeks around the corner,
Pskov starts preparing to enter the New Year with a bang.
Near the Detskii Park in the
centre of the city you will find
a huge Christmas tree, which
shines bright when the sun
goes down. The park itself is
decorated with bright Christmas lights in the form of carriages and waves, and a tree made completely of lights
stands in the middle. Government budget permitting,
celebrations culminate in a spectacular firework display.
As Christmas approaches, you can participate in activities such as skiing, swimming in the river (only for the
brave and/or foolhardy) and myriad other fun activities
organized at a country hotel near Pskov. If you want to
join in on the fun, we recommend you find a guide to
help you register, as in all likelihood nobody will speak
English. If you do not fancy frolicking around in the
snow, you can also just have your photo taken with a
red-nosed Ded Moroz near the Christmas trees.

Getting There
Train number 10 to Pskov departs daily from Moscow
at 16:55 from Leningradsky Vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya).
Buses depart on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays
at 20:00 from Tushinskaya bus station (metro Tushinskaya). A bus ticket to Pskov costs around 1000Rbl.
With the exception of Tuesdays and Sundays, you can
fly from Moscow to Pskov from Domodedovo Airport.
Various airlines fly between the two cities and an average ticket costs between 4000-6000Rbl.

Getting around
Pskov is not a very large city by Russian standards, so
you should not have any trouble finding your way
around on foot. The city bus service is comprehensive,
and a ticket - which you buy from the conductor, just
like in the old days - will set you back just 18Rbl. Taxis
are also a common form of transport in Pskov and are
very useful if you are not sure which bus to take. Prices
start around 80Rbl, so expect to pay between 100150Rbl per ride. The train station and main bus station
can be found at the same place in the south-eastern
part of town, and the no. 17 bus will take you right to
the city centre. For additional information, pay a visit to
the Pskov Tourist Information desk inside the Oktyabr
cinema. QPl. Lenina 3, tel. (+7) 8112 272 25 32,
www.tourism.pskov.ru. Open 10:00 – 18:00.
44 Moscow In Your Pocket

Pskov

What to see

outside PSKOV

Pskov city walls
The remnants of the once great fortress of Pskov can literally be found on the city’s streets. The five stone walls that
once surrounded the city have been reduced to a mere
shadow of their former glory, but are nonetheless an interesting site to behold, especially the old towers which
give a clear image of just how strong this city once was.
It is possible to enter some of the towers near the Kremlin
of Pskov and walk along the stone fortifications. Proceed
with caution when walking directly beside a wall when
hard winds are blowing, the structures are old and pieces
of stone can crumble down some of the weak points!

Old Izborsk
When visiting Pskov it is almost mandatory to also visit the
neighboring town, Old Izborsk. Just like Pskov, Izborsk used
to be a fortress rather than a city. It was one of the first towns
that invading enemies would encounter, so Izborsk was one
of the first Russian towns to build stone fortifications for protection. What truly draws tourists (especially Russians) to Izborsk are its Slovenian water springs, which supposedly each
hold a certain virtue. Do not be surprised to see people walking around with big jugs or bottles - in fact, be sure to bring
your own!Qwww.museum-izborsk.ru. Various expositions
at Izborsk will cost between 40-100Rbl, and audio guides
(either in English or Russian) for the town are available at a
cost of 500Rbl. To get to Izborsk, take bus 126 from Pskov
central station (08:00, 12:00, 13:20, and 17:05) or bus route
no.207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and
Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.

Pskov State Museum
The state museum of Pskov consists of multiple buildings,
now united under one name. The central building of the
museum hosts various exhibitions dedicated to Pskov and
its region. Directly attached to the main building are the
famous Pogankiny chambers, named after a rich nobleman
who once resided here. In these chambers you will find
various paintings and works of art. Aside from these main
buildings, there are 5 more parts of the Pskov State museum
spread throughout the town. Every part of the museum
has its own theme. Join a master class with a Russian blacksmith, or an excursion in the open storage fund collection.
Keep in mind that not all buildings share the same working
hours!QUl. Nekrasova ul. 7, tel. (+7) 8112 66 33 11, www.
museums.pskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 18:00. Closed Mon.
Monuments
The long history of Pskov has left its mark in the form of
public monuments. They can be found basically everywhere in the city center, the parks and the city outskirts.
Some of the most interesting monuments can be found
near the city centre, for example the monument dedicated to Alexander Pushkin, Russia’s legendary and most
famous poet. Another monument of significance is the
monument of St. Olga, whose name is often linked to the
creation of Pskov. One of the most impressive monuments
is situated a bit further outside town, on the Sokolikha Hill
(Falcon Hill). This particular monument is dedicated to
Alexander Nevsky, the legendary Russian hero. With a
height of no less than 30 meters, this monument will make
you feel like you are a character in a Tolkien story!
Parks
Pskov has some very nice parks where you can either walk,
or sit down to enjoy the atmosphere. The Detsky Park
(Children’s Park) can be found near the centre of the city,
and is a perfect place to see how Russian families spend
their free time. The park has a merry-go-round and pony
rides to entertain the children. You can also find two of
the city’s many churches inside this park. A little further
into town is the Letny Sad (Summer Garden), where
occasionally small feasts or events are organized. A walk
in these parks will most certainly clear your mind of any
troubles.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Pechory
This settlement is noteworthy for the Pskov-caves Monastery, the only monastery that has never been closed at
any point during its existence. The monastery currently
consists of nine churches, which are all quite a sight to
behold. Most interesting however are the caves beneath
the monastery, which serve as a burial site for pilgrims
and monks, but are open to the public.Qwww.pskovopechersky-monastery.ru. You can reach Pechory by
taking bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00,
13:30) or bus 207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the
station.

Pushkin Hills
Due south of Pskov lie the picturesque Pushkin Hills. The
entire area is pretty much an open air museum situated
around the former Pushkin family mansion. The hills breathe
19th century atmosphere, and are a great place to discover
some of the incredible scenery that can be found in Russia.
Alexander Pushkin spent two years in exile at this estate, and
it was here that he wrote some of his most famous works.
Just like many other places in the region, the Pushkin Hills
are not exactly adapted to tourists, so non-Russians speakers might have some troubles with navigating. It is wise to
find a guide who can help you get there and show you the
way around the estate, because no matter how beautiful
the hills are, you do not want to get lost.
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Churches
It is well nigh impossible to look around you in Pskov
and not see a church, if not two or three. No less than
40 churches have been built inside or near the city, the
oldest of which dates back to the 12th century, while
some are a lot more recent. Pskov is a paradise for those
interested in old Russian architecture and religion.
Some of the churches are no longer in use and are in
a somewhat derelict state, but most are still used and
open to the public. Keep in mind that many churches
demand that women wear a platok (scarf ) around their
heads. It is not uncommon for churches to have some
spare ones that you can use, but having your own saves
you having to ask at every church you enter.

Trinity Cathedral
Surrounded by the mighty city walls in the centre of
Pskov stands the Trinity Cathedral, also known as the
Pskov kremlin. The kremlin is the first stop for most
tourists who visit the city, and is the main icon of
Pskov. Situated on top of a hillside, the Trinity Cathedral is an impressive sight to behold, especially when
you are standing in its courtyard. Aside from being the
city’s main tourist attraction, the cathedral is also used
as a regular church by the inhabitants of Pskov. The
kremlin also has its own souvenir shop where you can
buy such things as religious icons, wooden cutlery, or
wooden spiked maces. To each his own!
Mirozhsky Monastery
As one of the few pre-Mongol buildings that survived
in Pskov, the Mirozhsky Monastery has a long and incredible history. The monastery’s Christ Transfiguration
Cathedral is known for its beautiful frescoes, which have
been preserved since the 12th century. Entrance into
the monastery is free and occasionally interactive excursions are held. Paying the monastery a visit just to stroll
through its garden is already a good enough reason to
do so. The monastery grounds have a certain silence
and serenity that make them a perfect place to enjoy
a moment of rest, and the site has been included on
the UNESCO list of outstanding architectural landmarks.
QMirozhskaya nab. 2, tel. (+7) 8112 57 64 03, www.
mirozhsky-monastery.ru. Admission free.
December 2014 – January 2015

45

Pskov

Where to stay
Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month, you
want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get
the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled
with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located
and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking
to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located
hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind
after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

Where to eat
You will never be hungry when you are in Pskov as the city
is bursting with restaurants and cafes. While most hotels offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, it might be more interesting
to head into town and have a look at the many cafes and
restaurants. Whether you are looking for a cup of coffee or
traditional Russian cuisine, you will easily find a place to still
your hunger and quench your thirst. Restaurants in Pskov
are relatively cheap, especially when compared to cities like
Moscow. We have listed some of our favourite restaurants
and cafes in Pskov especially for you!
Pozharka Tavern
The soothing smell of a burning fireplace and smoked
meat greets you as you walk through the big wooden
doors of Pozharka tavern. Once inside you will find yourself inside a rustic, warm and cosy tavern with an upper
and lower floor. The view from the upper level is gorgeous,
allowing you to see the Kremlin. The restaurant has some
tasty Russian dishes and dishes prepared on an open fire,
but the true specialties come from the tavern’s very own
smokehouse. An English menu is available for those who
need it, but it hasn’t been updated in quite a while resulting in small price differences with the Russian menu. Make
sure you check the correct prices on the Russian menu
before ordering to avoid surprise after enjoying your meal.
QNabat ul. 2A, tel. (+7) 911 381 00 65, www.pozharkapskov.ru. Open 11:00 – 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 – 02:00. €.
Dvor Podznoeva Halls
The Dvor Podznoeva Hotel includes several types of catering options for guests staying at the hotel, and people
who are looking for a place to eat. The signpost at the
inner courtyard directs you to either the restaurant, the
beer hall, the wine hall, or the pastry hall. In the restaurant,
waiters and waitresses dressed in traditional Russian garb
welcome you and bring you to your seat. Most of the interior of the building has not changed, giving it an authentic
and elegant atmosphere. Aside from the Russian dishes on
the menu, you should definitely not skip the homemade
kvas, which is absolutely delicious. That royal feeling you
get when a waitress refills your glass yet again is free of
charge. Q Ul. Nekrasova ul. 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00,
www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. €€.
Double Coffee
With its red and black interior, Double Coffee displays a
modern style. The establishment functions as a bar, café
and restaurant in one, making the menu a versatile one.
From breakfast to flashy cocktails, you can sit down at
Double Coffee at any time of the day. The restaurant is
fit for various occasions, such as having a drink with your
friends, organising a business lunch, or having a romantic dinner. The restaurant is situated quite close to Detsky
Park, so it is also a convenient place for those who want to
rest their weary feet after a walk. QOktyabrsky pr. 20, tel.
(+7) 8112 66 35 39, www.doublecoffee.lv. Open 10:00 –
24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 – 01:00. €.
46 Moscow In Your Pocket

5 stars

Nightlife
Pskov is not only a city of historical richness, it is also a
city with many students, who need to unwind after a long
week of studying hard. What better way to do that than
to enjoy a good night out? Pskov has a variety of clubs,
each with its own face and style. If you like to show your
moves on the dance floor, Pskov has a couple of places
where you can boogey down all night long. When local
Russians notice you are not from Russia, they will most
likely try to have a conversation with you, even if they only
know a couple of words in English. Do not be afraid to
converse with people, as they tend to be very friendly and
are genuinely interested. Below you’ll find a few places
where you can party as much as you like.

Ararat Park Hyatt
QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783
12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room
prices start at 16,000Rbl).
Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room
prices start at 6,200Rbl).
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya
QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota,
tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).

Hotel National
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,500Rbl).
Hotel Savoy Moscow
QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms
(Room prices start at 37,760Rbl).
Lotte Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms
(Room prices start at 15,000Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel
QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,000Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7)
495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru.
231 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl).
Metropol
QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,400Rbl).
Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru.
497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at
19,000Rbl).

TIR Club
Located next to one of the city walls, TIR is a club that
truly has its own identity. The underground style of the
bar is reflected by the unusual decorations and music
playlists, which offer all types of music. Even some of
the dishes on the menu contribute to the unorthodox image of club. The club regularly organises music
events, which are held near the stage in the back of the
club. During events you will have to pay admission to
enter the club, otherwise you can just drop in and have
a drink. QUl. Sverdlova 52, tel. (+7) 8112 62 10 54,
www.tirclub.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun
16:00 until last guest. €.
Super
Situated at the very end of the main street, Super is a
complex which houses a number of clubs and bars. It is
possible to enter all of the clubs in the building, but keep
in mind that some are a bit more exclusive. You can play
snooker, go bowling and, if you are up to the challenge, reserve a karaoke room for you and your friends. The clubs in
Super often host performances, concerts and even boxing
events, so keep your eyes peeled for interesting happenings! QOktyabrsky pr. 56, tel. (+7) 8112 66 06 06, www.
superpskov.ru.
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December 2014 – January 2015

47

Where to stay

Where to stay

Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre
Hotel
QA-1, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel.
(+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.
com. 366 rooms (Room prices start at 8,024Rbl).
Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo
Airport Hotel
QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.
com. 342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl).
Sheraton Palace
QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms
(Room prices start at 5,500Rbl).
The Ritz-Carlton
QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room
prices start at 15,000Rbl).
The St. Regis Moscow Hotel Nikol’skaya
QD-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967
77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 210 rooms (Prices
start at 11,000Rbl).

For hundreds more reviews of hotels
across Russia and Europe
check out our website
www.inyourpocket.com

4 stars
Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,100Rbl).
AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (5500
Room prices start ).
Best Western Plus Vega Hotel & Convention Center
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms
(Room prices start at 3,600Rbl).
Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City
Center Hotel
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms
(Room prices start at 4,000Rbl).
Holiday Inn Suschevsky
QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225
82 82, www.holidayinn.com. 312 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,500Rbl).
Marco Polo Presnja
QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 73 rooms
(Room prices start at 5,890Rbl).

Advertising

WINTER
HAPPENINGS

MOSCOW MARRIOTT
ROYAL AURORA
11 PETROVKA ST.
+7 (495) 937 10 00

MOSCOW MARRIOTT
GRAND
26/1 TVERSKAYA ST.
+7 (495) 937 00 00

Excellent cuisine,
impeccable
service and friendly
atmosphere are
waiting for your
in Moscow Marriott
Hotels. Enjoy our
Sunday brunches
and other restaurant
special offers.

3 stars
Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel
QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495
987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,500Rbl).
Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,990Rbl).
Ibis Paveletskaya
QUl. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
661 85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices
start at 3,900Rbl).
Warsaw
QC-5, Leninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499
238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room
prices start at 4,600Rbl).
Zolotoy Kolos
QYaroslavskaya ul. 15/3, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 617
63 56, www.zkolos.ru. 331 rooms (Room prices start at
2,400Rbl).

Hostels
Godzillas
QC-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7)
495 699 42 23, godzillashostel.com. 23 rooms (Room
prices start at 864Rbl).
iVan Hostel
QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 9 rooms
(Prices per bed start from 700Rbl).

Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are
obliged to register within seven working days
(this excludes weekends and public holidays).
Remember your hotel is obliged to register you as
staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register
you make sure you complain – the registrations is
their responsibility, not yours!

MOSCOW MARRIOTT
TVERSKAYA
34 1ST TVERSKAYA-YAMSKAYA ST.
+7 (495) 258 30 00

www.marriott.com

48 Moscow In Your Pocket

Marriott Moscow Tverskaya
QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv.
162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,800Rbl).
Novotel Moscow Centre
QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms
(Room prices start at 4,602Rbl).
Novotel Moscow City Hotel
QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7)
495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).

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December 2014 – January 2015

49

Where to stay
Ask the Concierge
Interview with Andrey Fedorenko, concierge at the
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski.
Please tell us something
about yourself. I’ll start with
the basics. My name is Andrey Fedorenko and I was
born in the capital of our
beautiful country in 1979. I
am a married man and my wife and I have children.
I got my degree from the prestigious Plekhanv University in hospitality and went to get further qualifications at the Dutch School of Hospitality and topped all
this off with a diploma from the American Hotel and
Lodging Association. My hobbies include motorcycles
and bike riding, as well as active relaxation in the nature. As far as my work experience goes, I started off at
the Marriot Aurora in 1998 and then in 2000 I changed
to Balchug and am the deputy head of the concierge
services.
Can you tell us something about Hotel Baltschug
Kempinski? What makes it special? What do you like
best about this hotel? As I already mentioned I’ve
been working here since 2000 and yet every time
I set foot in this hotel it’s as if it’s the first time because things constantly keep changing. The management has changed, colleagues have come and gone,
the interior has been revamped and now we’re also
undergoing a renovation process. One thing, though,
hasn’t left my hotel. And that’s the special spirit and
atmosphere of European hospitality, which keeps attracting our loyal customers as well as new guests. I’m
a Muscovite through and through but the view from
our 8th floor banquet hall captivates me each time
and brings joy to my eyes. I proudly answer that my
hotel is right opposite the Kremlin whenever someone
asks me about its location.

Shopping
Moscow has changed a lot over the last years, what
do you like best about this? Moscow is the capital of
Russia, it’s a city that never sleeps and is always on the
move, always developing – it’s changed so drastically in
the past few years! During the winter holiday months
it’s even more so active, as everyone is preparing for
New Year and Christmas. There are so many New Year
markets in the center as well as the outskirts. The scent
of pine trees and mulled wine is in the air, all kinds of
traditional and folklore celebrations take place every
weekend all the way up until the start of Maslennitsa.
This year we can also call Moscow the pedestrian capital because the amount of pedestrian-only zones has
grown exponentially. In addition to the already popular
walking zones like Old Arbat or Stoleshnikov Pereulok
Muscovites can go for a carefree stroll down Kuznetsky
Most, Nikolskaya and Rozhdestvenka Streets. And Pyatniskaya Street – just steps away from Balchug – also got
a nice makeover!
What hidden gem in Moscow can you recommend to
our readers? In a way I’m quite conservative and it’s
hard for me to change my habits so I always recommend my friend tried and tasted places. For example,
on a winter’s night I like to go to Oblomov restaurant
and reserve a table by the big fireplace on the first
floor with a nice comfortable sofa in advance. After a
trip to Sanduny I always pop by Uzbekistan restaurant
for the best chebureki and plov in town. I also love
attending open rehearsals in the Chaikovksy concert
hall and then have a nice cup of coffee in their café.
December is full of holiday spirit so guests often ask
about gift ideas for their loved ones aside from the
traditional matreshkas, caviar and strong spirits. So I
usually recommend scarves from Pavlovsky Posad,
especially since there’s a specialized shop just steps
away from the hotel.

What can you tell us about your favorite places in
Moscow? There’s something for everyone any time of
year, especially winter now that it’s right around the
corner. During my time at my job I have never heard
a foreign guest being disappointed with the city or
the people. Even our regulars who have been visiting
Moscow for the past 20 years still manage to discover
something new each time. In the wintertime my city is
beautiful and if I have free time I like to spend it actively
outdoors. Some of my favorite places are the ice skating rinks in Sokolniki or Gorky Park. I love cross country
skiing in Izmailovsky Park. After a nice active outdoor
session a cup of hot tea in the Izmailovsky Kremlin and
a walk through the world famous Vernissage really hits
the spot. To warm up Varshavskie Bani and Sanduny are
great places to visit for a real Russian banya.
50 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Winter Souvenirs
For many of us, part of travelling to a foreign country,
whether for business or pleasure, is finding and selecting
something special to bring back home. Luckily, St. Petersburg shops and markets are chock full of beautiful and
interesting gifts and souvenirs. You are sure to find something that suits everyone on your list, from close family and
friends to colleagues and clients. And we’re not just talking
about your average brightly-painted, glitter-splashed matrioshka dolls and kitschy Lenin badges, though those are
certaintly available in abundance. If you are looking to take
some extra special and quintessentially Russian gifts home
with you this winter, we recommend you consider purchasing some of the following:
Platok
A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical and
beautiful present for any female friend or relative. These
patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors and can be
worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a
winter outfit. Russian women of all ages wear the scarves
around the neck, over the shoulders, often as an outer layer
over a coat, or around the head, for an adorable babushka
look. Another great gift idea is an orenburgsky platok, which
is an over-size scarf/shawl spun from mohair yarn. These exquisitely patterned scarves come in multiple shades of gray
and brown and are both extremely beautiful and extremely
warm. The authentic, hand-spun ones are so delicate and
silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a wedding ring. The scarves can be worn however desired, as
a scarf or headcover or, for extra-warmth, wrapped crisscross around the chest and shoulders and worn under a
coat.

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Shapka ushanka
If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home,
then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear
flaps, called a shapka ushanka. Anything with red stars on
it automatically earns you double spot-the-tourist points.
Most of the things you can get in markets are made from
fake fur, but, if you’re willing to make an investment, real fur
hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur
shops all over the city.
Valenki
Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially
designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are
very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want
to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they
don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool, valenki are
said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear
them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks
is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your
skin as you walk.

Anything pickled
Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the masters
of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread almost always includes domashnie soleniа or “homemade
pickles”, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers, tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets.
Since pickled vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great substitute for caviar and costs a fraction
of the price.
December 2014 – January 2015

51

Shopping
shop in the museum
Are you always at the lookout
for these Soviet souvenirs, but
want to make sure you find
the right ones, then this is your
place. Rare items from back
when the country was hidden
behind an Iron Curtain are on
sale here, including stamps,
postcards and posters with the
popular Soviet – we can do it –
slogans. Next to the fun items, such as fridge magnets,
tea spoons and calendars, there is a large collection with
scientific literature about Russian history and on the museum of Contemporary Russian History too, with which
it shares the entrance by the way. If you are a professional
collector, make sure to have a look at their extensive online shop!QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru.

Gifts and Souvenirs
Art Lebedev
You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here
but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook
is full of trendy design gifts with a hint of the traditional
thrown into the mix. QC-2, Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9,
MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 772 96 84, www.store.
artlebedev.ru/offline/psm/. Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW
Dulyovsky farfor
The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice
crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets
designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to
1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright
wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20,
MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.
ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
Gallery Mikhailov
For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with
the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit
to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate
jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick
holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the
finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www.
vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A

Shopping
Russian gifts
This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything
you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite
jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl.
Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984
71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. ALK
Shaltai - Boltay
The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the quaint
fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh,
the shop features all manner of designer and handmade
goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary
rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more
for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the
body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78
50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AL

Lotte Plaza
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495
641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
LKW
Metropolis shopping center
QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru.
Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
Novinsky
QNovinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 797
62 00, www.novinsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Okhotny Ryad
QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AULKW
Tsvetnoy Central Market
QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW

Markets

Bookshops

Danilovsky
QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru.
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Dorogomilovsky
QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249
55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N
Leningradsky Rynok
QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71.
Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N
Vernisazh in Izmailovo
QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Bookshop Moskva
QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Business-Centre Bookbridge
QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00.
Dom Inostrannoy Knigi
QС-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel.
(+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
Respublika
QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open
24hrs. AKW
Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus
QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel.
(+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW

Shopping Centres
Atrium
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Evropeysky Shopping Centre
QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495
921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 23:00. AK
GUM
QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43
43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK

Prosto Tak
They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look
of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with
these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and
toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They
also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and
bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499
755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
52 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Supermarkets
Bakhetle
QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A
Globus Gourmet
QD-2, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1 bldg. 1, MKitay-gorod, tel. (+7) 495
662 66 03, www.globusgurme.ru. Open 24 hrs. PA
Gum Gastronom №1
QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788
43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK
Hediard
QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open
08:00 - 23:00.
Yeliseevsky
QС-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650
46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

DON GIULIO

Salumeria Formaggeria Prodotti
Italiani a Mosca
This unusual little shop marks out its own Italian territory in the unfamiliar Moscow surroundings. The combination of the most traditional Moscow architecture
in the centre of the city and the powerfully beating
Italian heart inside makes this little shop a truly inimitable environment. The owner himself, Giulio Zompi,
will be happy to use his expertise of selling Italian
wines to advise you on what to drink with your fresh
assortment of Italian goods. They also opened a shop
at Mal. Bronnaya ul. 22/15 (entrance via tea house Le
Voyage du Thé, metro Tverskaya) and Presnenskaya
nab. 10 (Moscow City, tower B, metro Vystavochnaya).
Don Giulio’s latest venture is La Scarpetta, a restaurant
that takes its Italian roots just as seriously as do the
shops. It is located on pereulok Kholzunova 9/1, just
a short walk from Frunzenskaya metro station. QE-2,
Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 926 666
33 70. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A

Art salon on
starosadsky
This small gift shop is a veritable
Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious
stones, minerals and amber
handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative
items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take
away an unique little piece of
Russia, rather than another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled
with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate,
jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious
stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling
fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines
in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large
selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer
boxes, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts created by two famous Russian artists
Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev.QD-3, Starosadsky
per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.
art-gemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
December 2014 – January 2015

53

Business directory

Expat & Lifestyle
Cultural & Educational
Centres

Accountants
and Consultants
Awara
QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com.
Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services
QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl.
Deloitte
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787
06 00, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst and Young
QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
LowLands
QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7)
495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru.
Mega-Intel
Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00.
PricewaterhouseCoopers
QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val.
10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru.
SHR Consulting
QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel.
(+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com.
The Lighthouse Group
QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, office 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business associations
Association of European Businesses
QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8,
MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@
aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru.
Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.
Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club
QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 59 46, [email protected], www.club-hit.ru.
Russian-German Chamber of Commerce
QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234
49 50, www.vdw.ru.
The American Chamber of Commerce
QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.
The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce
QС-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
54 Moscow In Your Pocket

Exhibition and
conference centres
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs)
QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544
34 00, www.vvcentre.ru.
Central exhibition hall Manezh
QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums.
info/M419.
Crocus Expo (International Exhibition
Centre)
Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino,
tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru.
Expocentre
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 18:00.
Gostiny Dvor
QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7)
495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre
(KVTS Sokolniki)
Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7)
495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00.
World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC)
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.

Lawyers and notaries
TIM Services & TIM Advisers
QShluzovaya nab. 8, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 989 18 17, www.timservices.ru.

Recruitment
Antal Russia
QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com.
G-Nius Russia - Recruitment & Executive
search
QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

The foreign cultural and educational centres in Moscow
are organising many activities for Russians and foreigners.
The epicentre is the VGBIL building in the city centre, near
Taganskaya metro, the Library for Foreign Literature. Most
of the international centres are located there.
British Council
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open
13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Canadian Centre
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute/DAAD
QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7)
495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/
deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Institut Français
QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/
russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00.
Neso Russia
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open
14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The American Center in Moscow
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat
11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.

International Schools
Atlantic International School
QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499
745 62 61.
QSkolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7) 968
651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru.
British International School
QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com.
Little Angels
QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru.
Montessori School
QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A
P’tit Cref
QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com.
The Anglo-American School of Moscow
QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88,
www.aas.ru.
The International School of Moscow
QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499
922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

LEARN russian at the
liden & denz
Dictionary for expats: No pain, no gain
If a Russian tells you: “Bez truda ne vytashchish i rybku
iz pruda”, you could be forgiven for not understanding the expression whatsoever. The literal translation
for this phrase is ‘Without effort, you cannot even pull
a fish out of a pond’, and it was coined by fishermen
who used the expression to explain their large catch to
passers-by. It is difficult to find concrete meaning behind these words, but the phrase indicates that nothing
can be achieved without a lot of effort and attention to
detail. When translated idiomatically, the phrase simply
means ‘no pain, no gain’.

QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181,
MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www.
lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

International Women´s
Club OF MOSCOW
It’s winter again
here in Moscow and
whether you’re new to
the city or have been
living here for a while,
if you’re dreading the
cold and short days,
why not get out and
socialize? No need
to spend the white
season by yourself! The International Women’s Club of
Moscow has a busy schedule: great company, useful
advice, and interesting pastimes to get you through
the grey and freezing. Pop by one of their Coffee Mornings and check out their website www.iwcmoscow.
ru to see what IWC has to offer! And also keep an eye
open for their upcoming big event in March 2015: the
Embassies of the World Dinner & Ball!
December 2014 – January 2015

55

Expat & Lifestyle
The Expat Experience
Interview with Francois
Morvan, General Manager, Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya Hotel.
Please tell us a few words
about yourself. I am married with two young children, and I have been living
in Moscow for almost six
years now. I have had the
great honour to work in
three different areas of the
capital, and for three very iconic establishments. This
has given me the opportunity to realise what a diverse
market it is, and I am enjoying it here just as much now
as I was on day one, discovering changes, seeing the
city evolve, finding new places to visit.
What makes the Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya a
very special hotel? First of all is the opportunity to return to the Hilton brand, where I had worked for a decade across four different countries. Second is simply the
privilege of managing such a unique hotel, one of the
Moscow’s landmark seven sisters, and third to have the
pleasure to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Hotel
Leningradskaya - being in the right place at the right time!
What does Moscow mean to you? Moscow is home,
it is where my family grew up: my eldest son arrived
here when he was just six weeks old, and the second
was born here, so you can imagine how much Moscow
means to them. And if it means all that to them, then
for me it is even more special.
What do you enjoy most about living in Moscow?
Your favourite places to go at weekends? I love the
intense weekdays, the traffic, the dynamism, always
something happening, and then the very quiet weekend, the city suddenly at rest - it is like being in a totally
different place. My favourite weekend place in Moscow
is the Hermitage Sad from May to October, just sitting
on the grass or on one of the park benches. It has a
unique and friendly atmosphere, a very different side
to our city. Second would have to be taking long walks
across the city to rediscover renovated neighbourhoods, and spending free time to look more closely
at places that we do not even notice during the week,
even though we may pass close by every day.
What do you like most about working in Moscow?
First has to be the diversity of the city, and the chance
it provides to encounter people from all over the world.
Second, the pulsating rhythm that life runs at in Moscow - it really is like nowhere else. And third, the constant evolution and the ever-changing nature of the
locals and the city’s culture, taste and lifestyle.
56 Moscow In Your Pocket

Expat & Lifestyle
Expat Contacts

Religious Services

AIESEC
Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org.
American Women’s Organisation
Qwww.awomoscow.org.
Associazione Signore Italiane a Mosca
(Italian Women’s Club)
[email protected]
Australian and New Zealand Social
Group (AUSKI)
Qwww.gdaymoscow.com.
British Women’s Club
Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk.
English Language Evenings (ELE)
Qwww.ELEMoscow.net.
Expat Football League
Qwww.moscowfootball.com.
EXPATinRUSSIA
Qwww.expatinrussia.com.
International Women’s Club
Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru.
InterNations
Qwww.internations.org.
Moscou Accueil (French Women’s Club)
Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org.
Moscow Hash House Harriers
Qwww.moscowh3.com.
Moscow International Choir
Qwww.moscow-international-choir.com.
MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter)
Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com.
Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen)
Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub.
Rotary Club Moscow International
Qwww.rcmi.ru.
SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational
Association)
Qwww.swea.org/moskva.

Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate
Conception
QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru.
Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral
QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru.
Historical Moscow Mosque
QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open
12:00 - 00:30.
International Christian Fellowship
QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48
01, www.icfmoscow.org.
Moscow Buddhist Centre
QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k),
MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/
en. Open 18:00 - 23:00.
Moscow Choral Synagogue
QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay
Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru.

Moscow is one of the most popular
and rewarding expat destinations.
If you would like your expat group to
be featured here, just drop us a line at
[email protected]
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Moscow Choral Synagogue

Moscow Congregation for Progressive
Judaism
QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7)
495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru.
Seventh-Day Adventist Church
QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7)
499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru.
Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy
QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8,
MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org.
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org.
St. Elisabethgemeinde
QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de.
Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy
QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Tax and holidays
In most European countries, personal income tax is the
favourite subject of conversation. Issues like the personal use of company cars and mortgage interest are all
highly regulated and complex areas, and the taxpayer
who knows the rules can get a tax refund worth, say, a
weekend for two in Venice. In Russia this is all different.
The tax rate is one of the lowest in the world (13% for
residents, 30% for non-residents which are people who
spend less than 183 days in Russia). Personal income
tax is withheld by the employer and because the rate is
flat, not progressive, all the tax you must pay is already
withheld by your employer. That does not leave much
to talk about, so it seems.
In order to “stimulate” the personal ownership of real
estate, each tax resident (which includes foreigners)
has a once-in-a-lifetime deduction of 2 million roubles.
So if you buy an apartment, you are entitled to a deduction. This deduction is further designed in a very smart
way: you should go to your employer and show him
all the paperwork which proves that you have acquired
your shoebox. Nevertheless, 260,000 roubles (still more
than 5,000 Euro at the current rate) is closer to a family
vacation to Thailand for at least a week.
But it does not stop there. Say, parents would like to
pass their apartment to their children. This can be done
tax free. But if they donate money with which the
child buys the apartment, that child can also claim the
once-in-a-lifetime tax rebate of 5,000 Euro from their
employer. For the parents, the income from the sale of
real estate which they have held for more than 3 years
is tax free. If they owned it less than three years, they
can choose: a standard deduction of 1 million roubles
or the actual profit made. This means they have to file
a declaration with the tax inspectorate and show the
original purchase documentation. This idea traditionally meets some resistance with Russians, because they
rather not claim a tax refund than zasvetitsa (literally to
shine through, meaning to get exposed) with the tax
authorities. Or, as one of my former landlords used to
say: anything over 100 dollars is a million.
Unfortunately, when you stop being a tax resident, the
deductions and exemptions mentioned above are no
longer applicable. If you sell your apartment after you
have left, you pay 30% over the gross amount received.
In financial terms, this is life or death. This is why many
expats prefer to leave Russia in the autumn rather than
in the spring: the difference in rate (13% vs. 30%) applies
to all income received that year and makes it worth to
spend the vacation in Sochi (or, better, at lake Baikal) and
save the value of trip around the world in taxes.
Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal
Services. For legal advice visit their website www.
bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.
December 2014 – January 2015

57

Maps

Expat & Lifestyle
Cultural differences
There is a Russian expression “Pyat minut ne opozdanie’
(Five minutes doesn’t constitute being late), and given
the horrendous traffic jams that you face in Moscow, this
is particularly apt. Schedules are somewhat more fluid in
Russia than in the West so showing up even ten or twenty
minutes late is unlikely to raise any eyebrows, although it
is considered courteous to call in advance and let them
know that you’re stuck in traffic. Arriving early isn’t an issue,
and it can take time to actually get into a building as documents need to be checked, and in more remote locations
the security staff may be unfamiliar with having foreign
guests visiting & therefore can have difficulty deciphering your name on your ID if it isn’t written in Russian. This
process at some larger state organizations can take surprisingly long - the overmanned security department need to
justify their existence somehow, and some firms believe
that this is part of their grandiose image, and even longer
if a propusk (entry pass) hasn’t been pre-ordered for you.

Moving and Relocations

© Студия Артемия Лебедева

AGS FROESCH Russia
QProyektiruyemy proezd 4062, bldg. 6, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 99 61, www.agsfroesch.com.
Allied Pickfords
QVarshavskoe shosse 127a, MYuzhnaya, tel. (+7) 495
796 93 25, www.alliedpickfords.ru.
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group
QOtkrytoye shosse 48a, 3rd floor, MUlitsa Podbelskogo, tel. +7 (495) 411 96 20, www.corstjens.com. Open
09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. N
Eolia
QUl. Tsandera 4, tel. (+7) 905 551 71 49, www.eoliarelocation.ru. Open 9:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Move One Relocation
QC-7, Ul. Krymsky val 3, bldg. 2, off. 503, MOktyabskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 01 64, www.moveoneinc.com.

There is still a degree of paranoia about non-Russian
nationals visiting large, state-run companies and ordering a propusk could take several days. Consequently if a
meeting has been scheduled at short notice, or you are
bringing along an additional colleague, it may be more
convenient – and in some cases necessary, to meet in a
nearby café or restaurant. Alternatively, if you have a local office in a convenient location, you can always invite
your counterparts to your premises.
A word of warning; meetings with senior government
officials are likely to begin on time so it would be seen
as bad form to arrive late. Contrary to how it may first appear, Russians are generally much more emotional than
Westerners, and sometimes make decisions that on the
surface can appear quite irrational, and on a whim, even
in seemingly serious business situations. Don’t look for
logic as there simply isn’t any – Russians feel that western-style pragmatism is plain boring!
Taking things to heart is a very Russian trait – known as
‘obida’ (offence) and affects the way people work, particularly in sales. Russians are extremely reluctant to do
anything that could be construed as unsolicited, such as
making cold calls due to the fear of rejection which they
will take extremely personally, almost as a personal insult.
In the workplace, Russians may be reluctant to forecast
sales projections as they are worried that even mentioning it to someone before it is completed might jinx it
(‘sglazit’), so you may find yourself having to ask more
questions than you expected to get to the bottom of
a project or sales that it still in the pipeline. Similarly
woman may not announce that they are pregnant until
several months into their pregnancy.
Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc
Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com
58 Moscow In Your Pocket

Charities
Children’s Hospital Fund
QShmitovsky pr. 23, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 499 256 64 44,
www.childhospital.ru.
Marias Children Art Center
QC-2, Dmitrovsky per. 2/10, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 692 48 70, www.mariaschildren.ru. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
MPC Social Services
[email protected], www.mpcss.org.
Big Brothers, Big Sisters of Russia
QUl. Matrosskaya Tishina 23 bldg. 1, MPreobrazhenskaya Plozhchad, tel. (+7) 495 500 40 42, www.
bbbsrussia.org.
Nastenka Foundation
QInstitute of Pediatric Oncology RCRC RAMS,
Kashirskoye shosse 23, MKashirskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980
53 77, www.nastenka.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Russian Orphan Opportunity Fund - ROOF
QPorkhovsky region, village Baranovo 4, tel. (+7) 926
072 05 48, www.roofnet.org.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

59

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December 2014 – January 2015

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C-5
A-4
D-4
D-2/3
A/B-3
E-1
F-6
A-2/3
D-1
B-4
C-5
D/E-4
D-1
D/E-4
D-4
C-2
A/B-1, B-2
C-3
A-2
A-3
B-1
E-1
C-3
D-2
B-4
E-5
E-5
B-5
B-5
B/C-5
B/C-4
A-3
C/D-2
C-1
C-4
F-6
B-2
A-1
D-2
E-2/3
B-2
B-1/2
A-2
C-1
B-2
B-2
D-4/5
C-5
D-1
C-4
B/C-3
C-3
C-3
E-4

Maronovsky per.
Maroseyka ul.
Mashkova ul.
Merzlyakovsky per.
Milyutinsky per.
Miusskaya pl.
Mohovaya ul.
Molochny per.
Monetchikovsky per. (2y)
Monetchikovsky per. (3y)
Monetchikovsky per. (5y)
Monetchikovsky per. (6y)
Moskvoretskaya nab.
Myasnitskaya ul.
Mytnaya ul.
Neglinnaya ul.
Nikitsky bul.
Nikitsky per.
Nikoloyamskaya ul.
Nikolskaya ul.
Nikolsky per.
N. Krasnokholmskaya ul.
N. Krasnoselskaya ul.
Novaya Basmannaya ul.
Novaya pl.
Novinsky bul.
Novokrymsky pr.
Novokuznetskaya ul.
Novokuznetsky per. (1y)
Novokuznetsky per. (2y)
Novoryazanskaya ul.
Novy Arbat ul.
Obydensky per. (2y)
Okhotny ryad ul.
Olimpiysky pr.
Ostozhenka ul.
Ovchinnikovskaya nab.
Ozerkovskaya nab.
Ozerkovsky per.
Paveletskaya pl.
Petrovka ul.
Petrovsky bul.
Petrovsky per.
Pyzhevsky per.
Pl. Nikitskie Vorota
Plotnikov per.
Plyushchikha ul.
Podkolokolny per.
Podsosensky per.
Pogorelsky per.
Pokrovka ul.
Pokrovsky bul.
Pomerantsev per.
Posledny per.
Potapovsky per.
Povarskaya ul.
Pozharsky per.
Prechistenskaya nab.
Prechistensky per.
Presnensky val ul.
Prospekt Mira
Pushechnaya ul.
Pushkinskaya nab.
Pushkinskaya pl.
Pyatnitskaya ul.
Pevchesky per.
Raushskaya nab.
Romanov per.
Rozhdestvenka ul.
Rozhdestvensky bul.
Runovsky per.
Rybny per.
Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.
Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.

C-5
D-2/3
E-2
B-3
D-2
B-1
C-3
B-4
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-3
D-2
C-5
C-2
B-3
C-2/3
E-3/4
C-2/3
D-3
E-4/5
E-1
E-1
D-2
A-2/3
B-5
D-4/5
D-5
D-5
E-1
A/B-3
B-4
C-2/3
C-1
B-4/5
D-4
D-4
D-4
D-5
C-2
C-1/2
C-2
C-4
B-2
B-3
A-4
E-3
E-3
C-5
D/E-2
E-3
B-4
D-1
D-2
B-2/3
B-4
C-4
B-4
A-1/2
D-1
C/D-2
B-5
C-2
D-4
D-3
D-3
C-3
C-2
C/D-2
D-4
C-3
B/C-1
A/B-2
E-1/2
B-1

Sadovnicheskaya ul.
Sadovnichesky proezd
Samotyochnaya ul.
Serebryanicheskaya nab.
Shchepkina ul.
Sivtsev Vrazhek per.
Skatertny per.
Smolensky bul.
Smolenskaya ul.
Sofiyskaya nab.
Soymonovsky proezd
Solyanka ul.
Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y)
Spiridonovka ul.
Spiridonyevsky per.
Sretenka ul.
Sretensky bul.
Stanislavskogo ul.
Staraya pl.
Starokonyushenny per.
Staromonetny per.
Starosadsky per.
Stary Tolmachevsky per.
Stoleshnikov per.
Stolyarny per.
Strastnoy bul.
Sushchevskaya ul.
Sytinsky per.
Tarasa Shevchenko nab.
Tatarskaya ul.
Teatralny proezd
Teterinsky per.
Triumfalnaya pl.
Trubnaya ul.
Trubnikovsky per.
Tryokhprudny per.
Tsvetnoy bul.
Tverskaya ul.
Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul.
Tverskoy bul.
Usacheva ul.
Ustyinsky pr.
Valovaya ul.
Varsonofyevsky per.
Varvarka ul.
Vasilyevsky spusk pl.
Vasilyevskaya ul.
Vasnetsova per.
V. Radishchevskaya ul.
V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul.
Volhonka ul.
Vorontsovo pole
Vorontsovskaya ul.
Vozdvizhenka ul.
Voznesensky per.
Vspolny per.
Yakimanskaya nab.
Yakimansky proezd
Yauzsky bul.
Zemlyanoy Val ul.
Zhitnaya ul.
Zhukovskogo ul.
Znamenka ul.
Zoologicheskaya ul.

D-3/4
D-3
C-1
E-3
D-1
B-3
B-2/3
A-4
A-4
C-3
B-4
D-3
C-5
B-2
B-2
D-1
C-1
C-2
C-3
B-3/4
C-4
D-2/3
D-4
C-2
A-2
C-1/2
B-1
B-2
A-3
D-5
C-2
E-4
B-1
C-1
A/B-3
B-2
C-1
B-1/2
A/B-1
B -2
F-6
D-3/4
D-5
C/D-2
C-3
D-3
A/B-1
C-1
E-4
E-3
C-3/4
E-3
E-4/5
B/C-3
B-2
B-2
C-4
C-4
E-3

Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business
and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few
days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window
on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city
easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty.
Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside
panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than
enough to enjoy at any time of year.

sightseeing

getting there
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 66), and
others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the
‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours
and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and
early evening. There are also of course frequent flight
connections between Moscow’s main airports and St.
Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.

Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
QNab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Kazan Cathedral
QKazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63,
www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services
10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
Kunstkamera
QUniversitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
Peter and Paul Fortress
QPetropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is
open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).

YOUR REFRESHING STAY
IN ST.PETERSBURG
Perfect hotel
for Business & Leisure
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Center West Pushkin Hotel
33 Kanonerskaya street
190121 St. Petersburg, Russia
P: +7 812 610 50 00, F: +7 812 610 50 01

E-2/3/4

C-5
E-2
B/C-3
A-1/2

Book online on our website
www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.com

Abbreviations
Ul. - Ulitsa
Per. - Pereulok
Pr. - Prospekt
Pl. - Ploschad
Bul. - Bulvar
Nab. - Naberezhnaya
Bol. - Bolshaya
Mal. - Malaya

moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

December 2014 – January 2015

65

St. Petersburg
Russian Museum
QInzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595
42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon
10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission
150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
St. Isaac’s Cathedral
QIsaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315
97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed.
Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of
the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.

HOTELS
Grand Hotel Europe
QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
hhhhh
Hotel Astoria
QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
hhhhh
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Center West Pushkin Hotel
QNab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya
ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.
courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. hhhh
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky
QLigovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244
00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms.
hhhh

Luxury Trains
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private
train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel
experience. After being shown to your cabin you will
find your beds have already been made up with real
duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages
are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during
the trip you experience some problems you can call the
train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they
will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow
truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.
Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00.
For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online
at www.megapolis-te.ru

66 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

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