Moscow In Your Pocket June-July 2014

Published on February 2017 | Categories: Documents | Downloads: 51 | Comments: 0 | Views: 600
of 35
Download PDF   Embed   Report

Comments

Content


Moscow
June - July 2014
N°33
inyourpocket.com
Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Summer Fun!
The best music festivals,
green parks, river cruises
and open terraces
Nature calling
Cool and cooling restaurants
outside the city
June - July 2014 3 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Contents
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
Nightlife 40
Dance and drink the night away
What to see 44
The Kremlin 44
River cruises 45
Modern art centres 47
Parks and gardens 49
Where to stay 50
Interview with concierge 50
Shopping 52
Raketa Watches 52
Russian souvenirs 53
Business 54
Do’s and don’ts of doing business in Russia 54
Expat & Lifestyle 56
The Expat Experience 56
Maps & Index
Street index 58
Metro map 59
City map 60
St. Petersburg 64
Foreword 4
In the News 5
Arrival & Getting Around 6
Public transport
City Basics 8
Language 9
Culture & Events 10
Concerts and exhibitions 10
Summer festivals 17
Sport news 21
Features 22
Old and New Arbat 22
Zamoskvorechye 26
Where to eat 28
Russian summer menu 29
Where to watch the World Cup 30
Summer terraces 36
Restaurants outside the city 38
www.facebook.com/MoscowYourPocket
Gorky Park. Photo by Ilya Timshin
The building on Kotelnicheskaya nab. Photo by Ilya Timshin
4 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 5 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Foreword
Moscow In Your Pocket
founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket.
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A.
tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,
[email protected], russia.inyourpocket.com
Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, [email protected]
General director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected]
Director Sales&Strategy JerkeVerschoor, [email protected]
Editor&PR Ksenia Elzes, [email protected]
Researcher Wabke Waaijer, [email protected]
Design Malvina Markina, [email protected]
Contributors Andy Potts, Tatiana Pole-Carew, Maria Stambler
Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, [email protected]
Customer Service Manager
Tanya Kharitonova, [email protected]
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written
permission fromthe publisher and copyright owner. The brand name
InYour Pocket is used under license fromUAB InYour Pocket.
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from
paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and sug-
gestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
informationat thetimeof goingtopress andassumenoresponsibility
for changes and errors.
© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
© Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl
Published 6 times per year with supplements,
N
o
33, 01.06.2014, 60 000 copies.
For children aged 16 years and over.
FREE WATER IN METRO
This summer you don’t have to worry about dehydration on
very hot days because Moscow authorities are planning to
distribute free unlimited drinking water to all passengers in
the metro if temperatures climb above +28C. In addition, all
underground transportation will undergo diagnostics and
extra maintenance ahead of the hot months, with special
focus on the air conditioning and ventilation systems so that
your travels will be as pleasant as possible this summer.
CHANGES IN PUBLIC
TRANSPORT
On May 25th Aeroexpress trains to and from Domodedovo
and Sheremetyevo airports changed to the new summer
schedule. During morning and evening rush hours the in-
terval between trains is reduced to 20 minutes instead of 30
to better serve the increased flow of passengers. The num-
ber of suburban trains has also increased and additional
ticket counters and machines have been installed to expe-
dite ticket purchasing during rush hours. From 11:00 until
16:00 passengers can also take their bicycles on the trains
for free. Additional transportation has also been added to
the following popular summer spots: Rublevksy Plyazh,
Serebryany Bor and Borisovskie Prudy.

RUSSIA DAY CELEBRATIONS
One of the most important government holidays in Russia
is June 12th, also known as Russia Day. This date is signifi-
cant because on June 12th, 1990 Soviet leaders signed a
declaration of Russia’s state sovereignty, which symbolized
the beginning of democratic reforms in Russia. It became a
public holiday in 1994. Nowadays it’s an occasion for many
Russians to demonstrate national pride by attending various
concerts, events and, of course, firework demonstrations or-
ganized by authorities in cities across the country. Moscow
will see a variety of events all throughout the city, with the
biggest ones happening on the Red Square, in Victory Park,
in Gorky Park and in Hermitage Gardens.
There is an old stereotype among foreigners that Russia is
a country of eternal frost and snow-covered streets where
bears roam. We assure you it’s not true. There is also another
stereotype that everything is extreme here. It’s always eve-
rything or nothing. This one is more accurate. It’s hard to
imagine that only two months ago the streets of Moscow
were absolutely white and it was freezing, and now, while
we are preparing this issue of Moscow In Your Pocket, it’s
almost 30 degrees. Summer has officially come to Moscow
and it will show you the capital in all its glory. Congratula-
tions, you’ve chosen a great time to explore the city!
It is going to be a very busy two months in the city. Check out
our special feature about summer festivals (page 17). Muzeon
park and Gorky park, Arkhangelskoye and Kolomenskoe are
some of Moscow’s nicest locations, where you can enjoy live
music while lying under a tree and sipping an ice-cold cock-
tail. Famous musicians from all over the world will be coming
to Moscow this summer. And they keep saying that the best
open-air music festivals are held in Europe? Please!
If you are not a music fan and the arrival of the sunny
months means the arrival of the World Cup 2014 for you,
we’ve thought about that as well. Admittedly, you are a bit
far from Brazil, but we’ve prepared a special list of places
(page 30) where you can watch all the games while enjoy-
ing delicious food and fresh drinks.
We wish you all a wonderful time in sunny Moscow! Enjoy
music, culture, football, sparkling cocktails, shashliks, green
parks, fresh air and smiley people around you! summer!
Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket.
COVER STORY
The Pushkin Bridge was constructed in 1999 at the loca-
tion of the former Andreevsky Bridge which had been
built in 1905. Photo by Ilya Timshin, www.ilyatimshin.com
Мoсква В Твоем Кармане
Учредитель и издатель
ООО «Красная Шапка»
Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург
Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.
тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65
факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64
Главный редактор
Бонни ван дер Велде
Отпечатано ООО“Келла Принт”,
191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул.
Тележная, д. 17.
Заказ N
o
26829
Свидетельство о регистрации
средства массовой информации
Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03
выдано Северо-Западным
региональным управлением
комитета РФ по печати. Цена
свободная.
Тираж 60 000 экз. N
o
33.
01.06.2014
Для детей старше 16 лет.
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
ABOUT IYP
We have come a long way in the 22 years
since we published the first In Your Pocket
guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much
so that we are today the largest publisher
of locally-produced city guides in the
world.
The recent publication of a guide to the
islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our
first in the Western Hemisphere - has
taken the number of guides published
each year by In Your Pocket to well over
five million, spread across more than 100
cities on three continents. And there is
more to come: make sure you keep up
with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by
liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/
inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter
(twitter.com/inyourpocket).
CZECH
REPUBLIC
SOUTH
AFRICA
POLAND
ROMANIA
HUNGARY
SERBIA BOSNIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
FYR MACEDONIA
BULGARIA
MONTENEGRO
ITALY
CROATIA
SLOVENIA
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
UKRAINE
GEORGIA
BELARUS
LITHUANIA
LATVIA
ESTONIA
RUSSIA
GERMANY
BELGIUM
NETHERLANDS
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
In the News
SHOP IN THE MUSEUM
Are you always at the
lookout for these Soviet
souvenirs, but want to
make sure you find the
right ones, then this is
your place. Rare items
from back when the
country was hidden be-
hind an Iron Curtain are
on sale here, including
stamps, postcards and
posters with the popular
Soviet – we can do it –
slogans. Next to the fun
items, such as fridge magnets, tea spoons and calen-
dars, there is a large collection with scientific literature
about Russian history and on the museum of Contem-
porary Russian History too, with which it shares the
entrance by the way. If you are a professional collector,
make sure to have a look at their extensive online shop!
Shop is located inside the building of the State Cen-
tral Museum of Contemporary Russian History, which
is also worth a visit.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTver-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru.
RESERVE A TABLE
Have you ever wished
you could reserve a ta-
ble at popular Moscow
restaurants more easily
and conveniently? Moscow In Your Pocket and com-
pany Leclick have made the perfect solution for you.
You can now make restaurant reservations direct from
our website. Click on the blue “Reserve a table” button
when you open up a restaurant page for Moscow In
Your Pocket and quickly fill out the form. It only takes
a few seconds to click a couple of buttons and send
the reservation through. The booking system will then
reserve the table for you (if available) and send you
confirmation of the reservation via an SMS text mes-
sage in English!
This is a fast, easy and convenient way to book a res-
taurant. You don’t need to worry about tripping over
some difficult Russian word, or about a possible misun-
derstanding, you don’t even need to be able to speak
or understand Russian!
This is a great way for any tourist or expatriate to make
a reservation. Furthermore, you can book from any-
where in the world and receive the SMS confirmation,
so when travelling you can still book your favourite
restaurant. This is great for tourists, businessmen and
anyone who values their time and good food!
6 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 7 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around
TAXIS
Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other
Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company,
you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey.
Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com
English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s pre-
mier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300
drivers in Moscow.
New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmos-
cowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru
TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru
Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru
XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru
It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and
negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To
indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm
down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it
is advisable to take caution by traveling with a compan-
ion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are
notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the
city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree
to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses,
slam the door and move on to the next Lada.
Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and
its excellent public transport system. Although it is home
to over 12 million people, Moscow’s public transportation
has been hailed as being amongst the best and most ef-
ficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground,
trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the
prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe
weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in
service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick
out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis with-
in seconds. You will never find yourself without a method
of getting from A to B in Moscow!
ARRIVING BY PLANE
Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located
in the north, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnu-
kovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far
the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre,
dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35
- 45 minutes.
Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between
00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so
it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save your-
self being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when
taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 -
2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimi-
date you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is
reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware
that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers
can not be depended on to have change, if you want to
avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change
in the terminal beforehand.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience wheth-
er you are coming from east or west, Moscow’s many
train stations are always bustling with travelers about
to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early
in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya
ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usu-
ally hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St.
Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than
wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dan-
gerous at night.
BELORUSSKY STATION
Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and
Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Sheremetyevo Air-
port via the Aeroexpress train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava
pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www.
belorusskiy.railclient.ru.
KAZANSKY STATION
Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Sa-
mara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.
2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.
kazanskiy.railclient.ru.
KIEVSKY STATION
As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bu-
charest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Vnukovo
Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo
Vokzala 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.
kievskiy.railclient.ru.
KURSKY STATION
Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station.
QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
266 53 10, www.kursky-vokzal.ru.
LENINGRADSKY STATION
Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Peters-
burg.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.leningradskiy.railclient.ru.
PAVELETSKY STATION
This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the
Aeroexpress train.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, MPavelets-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.railclient.ru.
RIZHSKY STATION
You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in
Latvia.QD-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495
631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.
YAROSLAVSKY STATION
The starting point for Trans-Siberian adventures, trains go
to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Ir-
kutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination
Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomol-
skaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the
metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between
each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the
beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket
is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine,
or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 40Rbl,
although buying in bulk is cheaper (11 for 300Rbl). On the
more modern trains, there is an electonicr sign in each car-
rige, announcing which station the train is approaching.
However in the older carriages, it is simply a voice over,
which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so for those who
aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to
count the number of stops you need to go.
Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as
the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy
to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the
metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward,
with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows
and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the
next stop inside,
Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take
some getting used to for a new comer to Moscow. What can
look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate
form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the
driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere
along the route to let them out. The average cost is 30Rbl
- be sure to have some small change on you when taking a
marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!
CAR RENTAL
AVIS RUSSIA CAR RENTAL
AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports,
as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobrynin-
sky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel.
(+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
HERTZ
Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an out-
let at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo air-
ports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect
a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges.
Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A
AEROEXPRESS TRAINS
The most reliable way of travelling to and from air-
ports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains
run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sherem-
etyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnu-
kovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and
Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is con-
nected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress
ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail ter-
minals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel
agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow,
or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of
sales outlets can be found on the company’s website,
where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.
aeroexpress.ru.
Download their free mobile app and you will be able to
purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone
with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at
the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly
from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card Pay-
Pass or VISA PayWave hold-
er, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).
Odin bilet - One ticket
Dva bileta - Two tickets
8 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 9 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
City Basics
REGISTRATION
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holi-
days). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to miss-
ing your flight while officials interrogate you.
MONEY
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations,
banks and large hotels.
FOREIGNER PRICES
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
CUSTOMS
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the
GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to
complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’
upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands
of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are
over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you
are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s
report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7,
bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travel-
ling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and
2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as
Estonia, the allowance is less.
MOBILE PHONES
You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.
To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.
You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register
your new sim card.
ALCOHOL
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what
is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scien-
tist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.
Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to
choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight
as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the
most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye
shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party
drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that
is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.
POST
Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If
you need to get something in or out of the country in
a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or
Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these
offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post
office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post
box around the city.
CLIMATE
In June and July Moscow hits its stride with balmy tem-
peratures ranging from the mid 20s to the low 30s. Hay fe-
ver suffers may struggle with the dusty air and high pollen
count which the summer weather brings with it. Sudden
storms and temperature drops at night mean that it’s best
to be prepared - think layers, an umbrella and a folding-
paper fan. And of course don’t forget your sunglasses.
BE ON GUARD!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if
you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or
Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, par-
ticularly at night.
Moscow Tourist Helpline (English)
(+7) 800 220 00 02.
Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (
o
C)
T
e
m
p
a
r
a
t
u
re
, o
C
R
a
in
fa
ll, m
m
Average temperature (
o
C)
Lowest recorded temperature (
o
C)
Language
POCKET DICTIONARY: KVASS
Mmm Kvass – the taste of Russian
summer. Once the hot months ar-
rive you’ll notice big yellow barrels
full of this fermented rye bread soft
drink appear on the streets – yes,
a drink made from bread! Bit like a
hald flat, non-alcoholic ale, it’s an
acquired taste to say the least… Marketed as an authentic
Slavic alternative to cola, this ancient, traditionally homemade
drink is now sold in supermarkets across the land under brand
names such as ‘klassik’ and ‘nikola’ (not cola, gettit?). Kvass can
also sometimes find its way into your food too - Okroshka is a
cold soup consisting of raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs and
lots of kvass. Those crazy Russian chefs!
USEFUL PHRASES
Basic frases
No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да
Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте
Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания
Thank you Spasibo Спасибо
Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините
Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста
I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю
I don't speak
Russian
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Я не говорю
по-русски
Do you speak
English?
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Вы говорите
по-английски?
Help! Pomogitye! Помогите!
I need some
help
Mne nuzhna
pomoshch
Мне нужна
помошь
I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу
I (don't) like it
Mnye (ne)
nravitsa
Мне (не)
нравится
May I? Mozhno? Можно?
Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...?
I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю
How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит?
It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого!
Large/small
Bolshoy/
malenky
Большой/
маленкий
Good/bad
Khorosho/
plokho
Хорошо/
плохо
It hurts! Bolno! Больно!
Today Sevodnya Сегодня
Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра
Could you write
it down?
Zapishite
pazhalusta
Запишите,
пожалуйста
Toilets Tualet Туалет
Stop here please
Ostanavite
pazhalusta
Остановите,
пожалуйста
When? At what
time?
Kogda? Vo
skolko?
Когда? Во
сколько?
What time is it? Katory chas? Который час?
Who? Kto? Кто?
How do you say
that in Russian?
Kak skazat eto
pa-russky?
Как сказать
это по-русски?
No problem Bez problem Без проблем
Of course Koneshno Конечно
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником!
Password Parol Пароль
ALPHABET
А A З Z П P Ч CH
Б B И I Р R Ш SH
В V Й Y С S Щ SHCH
Г G К K Т T Ы Y
Д D Л L У U Э E
Е E М M Ф F Ю YU
Ё YO Н N Х KH Я YA
Ж ZH О O Ц TS Ъ, Ь no sound
10 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 11 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
BIRD OF HAPPINESS
Russia’s cultural traditions of the past and present are
embodied in the sounds of nature and see its scenery.
Our ancestors listened to the singing of the birds, the
rustle of the leaves, the gusts of wind and the crunch of
fresh snow. They also marveled at the colorful sunsets,
the whiteness of the first snow, the rich green tones of
grass in the spring and the rays of the summer sun. All
of these sights and sounds they captured in music and
lyrics. This dialogue with nature and our surroundings is
where the “Russian national song” found its beginning.
Nadezhda Babkina, a true People’s Artist of Russia,
would like to invite you on a musical adventure into the
vibrant world of human emotions with her show “The
Bird of Happiness”, for it is this bird, according to Russian
folklore, that we are constantly chasing throughout our
lives, which are so full of losses and gains, moments
that captivate us or brief seconds of bitter separation.
Thanks to the most modern show technologies, you
will get to travel throughout Russia’s vast landscapes –
from the harsh winters, to the golden autumns, from
the summer fields to the intoxicating aromas of the
blooming springs. Ice sculptures, hundreds of authen-
tic costumes, unique choreography and the singing of
the “Russkaya Pesnya” group will this journey into the
world of genuine human emotions truly unforgettable.
And of course, staying true to real Russian traditions,
guests are greeted with bread and salt, Russian national
food will be abundant, national dress will be presented,
national arts and crafts will be on display – all this will
really get guests to dive into Russia’s rich culture and
Russians’ mysterious soul.
The show will take place daily (apart from Mondays)
from July 12th - August 31st, 19.30, in the Theater of
Musical Folklore “Russian Song”.
Q Musical Folklore Theater “Russkaya Pesnya”, Sa-
dovaya-Chernogryazskaya ul. 5/9, bldg. 2, MKras-
nye Vorota, tel (+7) 926 221 72 84, www.folkteatr.ru.
Tickets available at the theater, online or by phone.
THEATRE MAYAKOVSKOGO
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru.
THEATRE-ATELIER PYOTR FOMENKO
QKutuzovksky pr. 30/32, MKutuzovskaya, tel. (+7) 499
249 17 40, www.fomenko.theatre.ru.
VAKHTANGOV THEATRE
QB-3, Ul. Arbat 26, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 16
79, www.vakhtangov.ru.
JUNE AND JULY EVENTS
06.06 FRIDAY
20:00 TANGERINE DREAM
It’s been a long time in coming, but electronic pioneers
Tangerine Dream are finally coming to Moscow as part
of their farewell tour. The band started out in Germany
in 1967, citing influences as diverse as Hendrix and Dali.
Entranced by the potential of electronic music making -
something still in its infancy - their complex soundscapes
paved the way for a vast range of followers, from the gla-
cial austerity of near contemporaries Kraftwerk to the vio-
lent rock of Rammstein. This farewell tour also marks the
40th anniversary of the seminal Phaedra album, widely
regarded as one of the high points of its genre.QCrocus
City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499
550 00 55, www.tangerinedream-music.com. Tickets
1,500 - 12,000Rbl.
06.06 FRIDAY
20:00 THE USED
The Used once earned as
much fame for the stormy
TV relationship between
singer Bert McCracken and
matriarch Sharon Osbourne
while he was dating her
daughter. But 13 years into
a hard-rocking career the
Utah-based band is tour-
ing a new, politically mo-
tivated album. ‘Imaginary
Enemy’ speaks out angrily against the pretexts for empire
building, something which strikes a chord with listeners on
both sides of the Atlantic. Reassuringly, though, it also rocks
like a good’un: while the philosophy might spark debate in
the bar afterwards, the music itself should whip up a reli-
able frenzy in the mosh pit.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze
11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.
glavclub.com. Tickets 1,700 - 5,000Rbl.
Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchai-
kovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co.
– they all took their inspiration from this magical and
majestic place. Live music from local and international
performers is another big part of the cultural landscape
of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow
also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey
festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious
events.
CONCERT HALLS AND CLUBS
ARENA MOSCOW
QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495
940 67 55, www.arenagroup.ru.
CROCUS CITY HALL
QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.crocus-hall.ru.
LUZHNIKI STADIUM
QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62,
www.luzhniki.ru.
MOSCOW CONSERVATORY, THE GREAT HALL
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru.
MOSCOW PHILARMONIC SOCIETY
QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
SK OLIMPISKY
QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33
33, www.olimpik.ru.
STADIUM LIVE
QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495
540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru.
STATE KREMLIN PALACE
QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel.
(+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.
THEATRES
ACADEMIC THEATER OF OPERETTA
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
925 50 50, www.mosoperetta.ru.
BOLSHOI THEATRE
QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455
55 55, www.bolshoi.ru.
HELIKON-OPERA
QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
695 65 84, www.helikon.ru.
KOLOBOV NOVAYA OPERA THEATRE
QВ-1, Hermitage Gardens, Karetny Ryad 3, bldg.
2, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 08 68, www.
novayaopera.ru.
MALY THEATRE
QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
625 48 59, www.maly.ru.
STANISLAVSKY AND NEMIROVICH-DANCHEN-
KO MOSCOW MUSIC THEATRE
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru.
10.06 TUESDAY
20:00 THE PRETTY RECKLESS
When ‘Gossip Girl’ star Taylor
Momsen announced she
was planning a music career
it was easy to fear the worst.
But instead of playing up to
her girl-next-door TV image,
The Pretty Reckless saw her
opt to play the goth-tinged
rock chick, setting her phas-
ers to ‘shock’ and riding me-
dia outrage to chart success.
But questions still linger:
is this anything more than an empty shell, well-crafted but
lacking any kind of musical substance? And if Momsen kept
her bra on, would anyone notice the band at all? Moscow au-
diences get their chance to find out at Stadium Live on June
10.QStadium Live, Leningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol,
tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.prettyrecklessofcial.tumblr.
com. Tickets 2,200 - 10,000Rbl.
10.06 TUESDAY
21:00 LILY ALLEN
Lily Allen was never likely to
be the typical pop princess.
A childhood populated by a
cast of celebrities of Britain’s
counter-culture, from Joe
Strummer to Harry Enfield,
ensured that. Her music,
while veering from ska-punk
to synth-pop, has never lost
its aggressive, sweary, finger-
jabbing anger, making her a
tabloid darling as much as a
radio fixture. After a long break from the recording studio, this
year’s new album, ‘Sheezus’ (deliberately skewering the pre-
tensions of Kanye West) is one of the most hotly-anticipated
releases of the year, and early taster ‘Hard out here’ suggests
she’s still in fine, iconoclastic form.QArena Moscow, Lenin-
gradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99,
www.lilyallenmusic.com. Tickets 2,000 - 5,000Rbl.
11.06 WEDNESDAY
20:30 FOALS
A generation after the great Radiohead formed at Abing-
don Boys School, the Oxford establishment has unleashed
another indie-rock monster on the world. Foals, perhaps
the world’s hardest-working act, has certainly put the
airmiles in, clocking 135,000 miles to play 155 gigs last
year. Practise pays off, and Q magazine named them the
best live band of the year while ‘Holy Fire’ was nominated
for the prestigious Mercury Prize. Musically diverse, and
committed to memorable live shows, a Foals concert is
a big event for fans - and usually converts plenty of new
ones at the same time.QStadium Live, Leningradsky pr.
80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.
holyfre.foals.co.uk. Tickets 2,190 - 12,000Rbl.
12 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 13 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
15.06 SUNDAY
19:00 TORI AMOS
Tori Amos’ last visit to Mos-
cow, three years ago, was
an exquisite treat for lovers
of classically-influenced
art-rock. This time out,
with a new, rockier album
‘Unrepentant Geraldines’
on the go, the ambience
might be a bit different,
but the commitment to
high-quality, diverse music-making remains the same as
ever. It’s more than 20 years since her ‘Little Earthquakes’
debut; since then Tori has evolved into far more than a
highly-strung singer-songwriter at a piano and matured
into one of the most absorbing artists in the contempo-
rary music scene. Expect a big crowd to get along to Cro-
cus City Hall to enjoy the latest installment.QCrocus City
Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550
00 55, www.toriamos.com. Tickets 1,500 - 15,000Rbl.
18.06 WEDNESDAY
20:00 TOM ODELL
When you’re signed up on a personal recommendation
from Lily Allen, but also get a 0-out-of-10 review from the
influential NME, it’s fair to say you polarize opinions. Tom
Odell, depending on who you ask, is a Bowie for a new age,
or a tedious purveyor of bland Brit-mediocrity. Away from
opinions, though, Odell won the Critics Choice prize at the
2013 Brit Awards and his debut album, ‘Long Way Down’ has
won plenty of fans with its energy and emotional honesty.
And, if you don’t like the show, you can always go to Lily
Allen’s gig and complain to her about it.QGlavclub, ul. Or-
dzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230
10 30, www.tomodell.com/uk. Tickets 1,500 - 5,000Rbl.
19.06 THURSDAY
20:00 PSYCHEA
Russia’s rock scene can
often appear moribund,
with few acts willing to
push boundaries and chal-
lenge the cozy medioc-
rity demanded of national
broadcasters. Happily,
the country’s biggest and
longest-serving alternative
act, Psychea, is still around
to ruffle a few feathers. The
music is hard and uncom-
promising, the stage show - now they’ve graduated to
large arenas - is on a grand scale and the band’s consis-
tent thirst for experimentation during its 18-year history
means there’s always something new for fans to hear. The
welcome establishment of the ‘Glavclub’ brand in Moscow
gives an ideal venue for Psychea’s latest show.QGlavclub,
ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7)
495 230 10 30, www.psyshit.ru. Tickets 900 - 3,000Rbl.
22.06 SUNDAY
19:00 LAURA PAUSINI
Laura Pausini marks 20 years
in showbiz with her first ever
performance here in Russia.
As part of her Greatest Hits
world tour the Italian singer
is bringing her best loved
songs to Moscow - includ-
ing the classic ‘La Solitinude’
that launched her career
and was re-released as a
special anniversary edition last year. Her fanbase stretches
across more than 50 countries, and she performs in four lan-
guages (although Russian is not yet one of those). Her discog-
raphy includes duets with artists as diverse as Kylie Minogue,
Andrea Bocelli and Helene Segara, as well as appearing at
the Pavarotti and Friends concert and dueting with the mae-
stro on two separate occasions.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD
65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.
laurapausini.com. Tickets 1,200 - 10,000Rbl.
27.06 FRIDAY
20:00 KALINOV MOST
Dmitry Revyakin, founder and frontman of Siberian folk-
rockers Kalinov Most, celebrates his 50th birthday this year.
As part of the festivities his band - one of the most enduring
and influential in Russian rock - is back on the road. The years
have brought changes, not least the switch from Pagan to
Christian influence following Revyakin’s conversion in 2000,
but the man himself explains that his underlying theme is
‘the Russia I’d hope to live in’. Musically the folk influences
have waned somewhat in favor of MOR rock, but the band
retains a large and loyal Russian fanbase.QGlavclub, ul. Or-
dzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230
10 30, www.kalinovmost.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 5,000Rbl.
09.07 WEDNESDAY
20:00 FOSTER THE PEOPLE
Foster the People earned its fame thanks to ‘Pumped Up
Kicks’ an unlikely indie-pop hit about a high school shoot-
ing. Overnight success saw many of the tracks from de-
but album ‘Torches’ find their way into TV soundtracks.
Now the band is back on the road, promoting its second
album, ‘Supermodel’. Partially recorded in Morocco, this
release has a more diverse vibe, but at its heart it remains
a slice of angry, pensive indie rock with an underlying
message about greed. QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze
11, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.
fosterthepeople.com. Tickets 1,800 - 10,000Rbl.
KOSTROMA
Bored of Russian history museums with lots of dry and
non-compelling texts? Looking for history that would
be fun and accessible to the whole family? If yes, make
sure to check out the National Show of Russia “Kostro-
ma”! For 10 years now this annual summer spectacle
has been transcending space and time to show viewers
from all parts of Russia and beyond the vastness of this
incredible multi-cultural country.
Politicians, artists, cultural figures, royalty, children and
their parents, young and old have all been witness to
historical events of the Russian nation that unfold on the
stage of the Big Concert Hall “Kosmos”. Here, scenes from
our astounding history and stories of our greatest heroes
and epochs come alive through dance. Through brilliant
stage performances we are shown the beginning of Chris-
tianity in Russia, the Tsarist epoch and pre-revolutionary
Russia, the flight of the first man into space and the fa-
mous Russian ballet. A variety of landscapes are covered,
ranging from the Caucaus mountains to Asian steppes, the
Northern Ocean to the Black Sea, the beautiful Volga river
to the mighty Yenisei. As the scenery changes, so do the
people along with their traditions and culture.
Over 50 artists perform various numbers, among them
“Tatar Spring”, “Legends of the North”, “The Rhythm of the
Caucuses”, “The River Volga Flows”, “Yokhor”and “Tsam”– all
with astounding accuracy and adherence to the traditions
and the way of life of the numerous cultures embodied in
the Russian Federation. Very special attention is also given
to the decorations to ensure that all elements are as close
to reality as possible. More than 300 costumes were de-
signed by Elena Piatrovskaya and are extremely fascinat-
ing with how true they remain to the national style. All the
amulets, Mongolian masks, drums and Tatar tambourines
were hand-made by the masters of the cultures and tra-
ditions from regions near and far, such as Chukotka, the
Tuva Republic, Dagestan and Tatarstan. Vladimir Kornev, a
famous composer, wrote the music for many of the num-
bers and the musical arrangement for the 80 musicians of
the orchestra was created by Vladimir Ryabtsev, a People’s
Artist of the Russian Federation.
Q BKZ “Kosmos”, pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7)
495 234 63 73, www.nationalrussianshow.ru. The
show takes place every day from the 15th of June
until the 15th of September (except Thursdays).
STANISLAVSKY
MUSIC THEATRE
Dating back to 1918-1919 the Stanislavsky and Nemi-
rovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of
the biggest and most successful theatres of Russia. The
opera and ballet performances are well known to the
Moscow audience and attract more and more interna-
tional visitors.
The theatre takes part in many international projects
and gets yearly nominated for the national theatre
premium Golden Mask. In 2013 it was nominated in
London for the Oscar amongst the opera’s; the first
international opera award for best opera theatre. The
Stanislavsky theatre itself is beautifully decorated, with
wide open spaces and a lovely museum showing the
history of the theatre, costumes used for performances
and lovely stage models.
June 10 will see the premier of Mozart’s Don Juan. This
wonderful opera pushed the boundaries of Mozart’s
time creating a lively and amusing drama about the
dangers and the lusts of Don Juan. The original debut
of the opera in Prague was met with positive reviews
but was less warmly welcomed in Vienna. Regardless of
what critics of the day thought, Don Juan has become
one of Mozart’s best loved works.
July will be met with a premiere of Manon – one of the
best loved ballets of the 20th century and based on the
comic opera by Jules Massenet. The ballet is about the
tricky choices love faces when the protagonist is un-
able to decide between the temptations of luxury and
the love of his life. The production is exquisitely cho-
reographed and designed with authentic 17th century
costumes and this loving performance will give you a
snapshot into the life of 17th century France in all its
glory and sundry.
STANISLAVSKY AND NEMIROVICH-
DANCHENKO MOSCOW MUSIC THEATRE
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru.
14 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
MUSIC IN TSARITSYNO
28.06 SATURDAY - 13.07 SUNDAY
MUSIC IN TSARITSYNO
Tsaritsyno hosts a series of concerts throughout the
summer months, combining great music with a spec-
tacular setting. On June 28-29 the annual festival of clas-
sical ensembles takes over the palace, with performanc-
es from the likes of violinist Dmitry Kogan, tenor Maxim
Paster and soprano Maria Maksakova. But the biggest
highlight is probably the evening program on June
28, when an outdoor performance of Carmina Burana
(8pm) is followed by a rock concert with Olga Kormukh-
ina (10 pm). The first two weekends in July offer a mix-
ture of chamber music, jazz and - to wrap up the festival
on July 13 - an evening with the Solo Tango Orquesta
(times tbc).QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo,
tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru.
Tickets for concerts in the museum 150 - 1,000Rbl.
Entrance to open air concerts is free.
EXHIBITIONS
THROUGH 27.07 SUNDAY
VIVA ITALIA!
From the splendor of Ancient Rome to the glories of the
Renaissance, Italy has defined the architectural language
for centuries. Reflecting this, the Tretyakov is putting on
a show of Italian design through the eyes of artists from
different eras and countries. Drawing on works from its
own collection as well as visiting canvases from Berlin’s
Museum of Architectural Drawing and the Tchoban Fund,
the exhibition presents Italy’s cityscapes in various ways:
strict studies, artistic observations and a starting point for
creative imaginations.QC-4, Tretyakov Gallery, Lavrush-
insky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62,
www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri
10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl.
THROUGH 03.08 SUNDAY
THE STAGE ON SHOW
Fyodor Fyodorovsky
wasn’t a great singer or
dancing, but he did as
much as anyone to cre-
ate the image of the Bol-
shoi Theatre as a globally
renowned cultural pow-
erhouse. He spent more
than 30 years as a stage
designer, arriving in 1921
and quickly becoming the
chief set designer and costume artist. From the famous
red-and-gold curtains which hung from 1935 until the
restoration of the main stage in 2005 to the stars that
shine from the towers of the Kremlin, his designs shaped
a nation’s image of itself. The highlights of his stage
work came in the 1930s-50s when he created definitive
imagery for a wealth of Russian operas - the historical
epics like Boris Godunov, Khovanshchina, Prince Igor,
The Tsar’s Bride and many more. This summer show at
the New Tretyakov offers an insight into how he styled
Russia’s past - and helped to define its present for inter-
national audiences.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky
Val, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238
13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30.
Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl.
ABOUT IGOR CHOLARIA
The contemporary Russian artist Igor Cholaria was in-
fluenced by French impressionists and early 20th cen-
tury avant-garde especially by such painters as Picasso,
Braque and Modigliani. However, it is clear that he was
also influenced by Russian icon paintings and the re-
naissance masters. His style is an organic synthesis of
various styles from different periods and he conse-
quently refers to his own works as a retrospective. In
his work he adds new ideas to old and is prepared to
take a step backwards to take two steps forward. Over
the past 20 years the artist has worked extensively with
English, Belgian and Dutch galleries and his works have
been purchased by Madonna, John Galliano, Gerard
Depardieu among others. The artist is in the prime of
life and able to surprise not only the public, but even
himself.
QMoscow, Alla Bulyanskaya Gallery, Ul. Krymsky
Val 10, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 926 207 22 42,
www.allabulgallery.com
QSt. Petersburg, Pushkinskaya ul. 10, MPl. Voss-
taniya, tel. (+7) 921 941 82 82, www.tcholaria.com.
16 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 17 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
THROUGH 04.08 MONDAY
PROSE IN THE PARK
Russia’s proud literary tradition is one of the country’s call-
ing cards, and cities large and small are eager to attract
visitors to any house, however humble, if one of the great
wordsmiths happened to spend time there. But as the
State Literary Museum marks its 80th anniversary, a new
exhibition at Tsaritsyno offers a glimpse of what the future
might hold for some of the world’s most valuable written
relics. As well as a host of unique manuscripts and rare edi-
tions of Russian classics - from Fedorov to Solzhenitsyn -
multimedia technology introduces a new wealth of audio
recordings. The exhibition, called ‘Memory of the Future’
also features events with contemporary writers and cre-
ators, from satirist Dmitry Bykov to mystical cartoonist Yuri
Norshtein, of ‘Hedgehog in the Fog’ fame.QTsaritsyno,
Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66,
www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00.
Museums open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and
holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
THROUGH 11.01 SUNDAY
SCULPTING A NEW ORDER
Vera Mukhina is most fa-
mous for her work on the
monumental ‘Worker and
Collective Farm Girl’ sculp-
ture, which became the
logo for Mosfilm and fea-
tured in the opening cer-
emony at the Sochi Olym-
pics. But in a display to
mark the 125th anniversary
of her birth, the Tretyakov
Gallery is focusing on less
well-known works from the early years of the USSR. It was
a time when art was being put to the service of the ideals
of the new socialist order, and when the heroes of sculp-
ture and painting should be idealized images of everyday
people rather than images of ‘great men’. Looking at the
sketches and projects Mukhina planned at this time gives
an insight into how she developed her monumentalist
style and helped bring these ideals to reality in bronze and
stone.QB-5, Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky
Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www.
tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon.
Admission 100 - 360Rbl.
RUSSIAN MOTIVES
TRADITIONAL CRAFT FROM PAST TO PRESENT
Painted lacquer snuffboxes became hugely fashionable
in the late 18th century, and quickly evolved into a cel-
ebration of traditional Russian cultural themes. The dark
backgrounds gave rise to a host of brightly-colored fai-
rytale scenes, some inspired by folk tales, others by liter-
ary classics. It’s a snapshot of the Russian landscape, its
dense forests, mighty rivers and mythical lost cities, and
it’s a tradition which survived the Soviet era without be-
ing pressed into propaganda service. Russian masters of
lacquer painting have shaped the development of this
medium all over the world. To celebrate this rich tradi-
tion, the All-Russian Decorative Art Museum is staging a
special exhibition. More than 300 works by masters from
Palekh, Fedoskino, Mstyora and Kholui form the basis of
the display, which includes several items never seen be-
fore by the general public. The exhibition also reflects the
museum’s growing role as a guardian of Russia’s unique
arts and crafts. An important part of the show focuses on
contemporary lacquerwork, showing how this tradition
continues to thrive and develop in the 21st century.
04.06 WEDNESDAY - 10.08 SUNDAY
EVERYTHING STOPS FOR TEA
No visit to Russia would be complete without encoun-
tering the famous samovar. The word samovar means
‘self boiling’; the object supplies a constant supply of
piping hot water at the table, fuelling the thirst for a cup
of tea. Russia’s tea culture, which maintains a powerful
grip on the nation’s habits today, developed relatively
late; the oriental infusion started gaining popularity in
the 17th century as the Russian Empire expanded into
Central Asia. The Museum of Decorative Arts is staging a
large-scale exhibition exploring Russia’s tea culture - in-
cluding many fine examples of samovars - throughout
its history. The display also includes packaging, advertis-
ing materials, shop fronts from tea stores and informa-
tion about the Great Tea Road that brought the prized
leaves to eager fans in Moscow and St. Petersburg.
QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegats-
kaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01
46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 -
21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue
and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl.
SUMMER FESTIVALS
HOORAH, FESTIVAL SEASON IS UPON US!
Everyone’s happy that summer is finally here in Moscow!
But now this is especially true for music lovers of all musi-
cal persuasions. Why? Well, in recent years the European
festival culture has finally caught up in Moscow. A testa-
ment to that is last year’s summer, which saw titans such
as Arctic Monkeys, The Killers, Limp Bizkit, Hot Chip and
George Clinton take to various stages across the city. So,
sunglasses? Check. Sunscreen? Check. Comfortable foot-
wear? Check. Friends? Check. Good vibes? Check. Alright,
lets see what this summer has got in store!
WORDS OF WISDOM
Now we’d like to share with you some words of wis-
dom from veteran festival goers to make sure you
make the right choices and have a FUNtastic time.
1. Study the line-up and program carefully. You’ll need
to decide what you really want from your festival ex-
perience, i.e. only music or music as well as other cul-
tural/entertainment programs.
2. Think about which bands you really want to see
and then – if you don’t mind spoiler alerts – check out
their setlists from recent gigs to make sure your favor-
ite tunes get played; it’s also worth reading reviews
from fellow fans about the band’s recent gigs. Go on
the festival’s website and check out who’s playing on
which days and at what times. If there are some bands
you want to see there’s always a chance that there may
be clashes in the program so you might have to make
some difficult decisions.
3. Make sure to buy tickets in advance because prices
tend to get steeper and steeper as your festival(s) of
choice draws nearer.
4. On the day, make sure to arrive at least an hour/
hour and a half ahead of your first band’s performance
to avoid being late due to lines and lengthy security
checks.
5. And remember, a festival is not a pillow fight so
don’t expect softness and feathers everywhere:
people push, shove and dance drunken dances so be
ready for a bit of roughness, especially at rock gigs and
closer to the stages.
6. Most importantly: HAVE FUN!
JUNE 7
AHMAD TEA MUSIC FESTIVAL
Moscow’s festival sea-
son will kick off on June
7th with the Ahmad Tea
Music Festival in Muzeon
Park. A relative new comer,
this cozy little festival has
grown from its first edi-
tion in 2011 into a must for
those who are interested
in the slightly more under-
ground splendors of Brit-
ain’s (because it’s an English tea brand, after all!) indie rock
and electronica scene and the country’s festival culture in
general. ATMF enjoys the reputation of fishing out young
new British talent just before they skyrocket to fame and
therefore have not yet outgrown smaller venues.
The message of the festival is clear: “we exist in order to
create a quality musical environment, bring relevant artists
to an audience that truly appreciates contemporary British
music and to recreate the British festival environment in
Russia’s cultural space”. So this year, please welcome the
headliner Elbow, a legendary British band - on par with
Coldplay and Radiohead - with several Mercury and Brit
Awards in their pocket. Bombay Bicycle Club (with their
new album “So Long See You Tomorrow), Peace (an indie-
rock quarter from Worcester) and Palma Violets (whose
single “Best of Friends” was NME’s song of the year) will
also rock the stage at this year’s ATMF. Q B-5, Muzeon
Park, Ul. Krymsky Val 2, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495
228 20 80, www.ahmadteafest.ru.
JUNE 13, 14, 15
WILD MINT FESTIVAL
Wild Mint is the largest
world music festival in
Russia. Ever since 2008 it
is held every summer, in
the cultural ethnographic
complex Ethnomir (in
Kaluga Region), and at-
tracts the most salient
artists from all corners of
the world: Balkan rollicking
tunes and Celtic rhythms,
lingering Russian melodies and laconic afrobeat, noble
ethno-jazz and sunny ragga, Georgian polyphony and
Portuguese tunes, the songs of independent Spanish pop
music and fancy Finno-Ugric lamentation songs.
This year you can expect to see Alex Clare, Brainstorm, Sur-
ganov and Orchestra, Therr Maitz, N.O.H.A, Nina Carlson,
Project Rakija and many other Russian and foreign artists.
The vibrant musical program and a rich cultural enter-
tainment come together to provide visitors with a truly
unforgettable trip around our breathtaking planet – all
within a short train ride from Moscow! Besides music
from around the world, the World-on-a-Plate food festi-
val is held there, enabling guests to get acquainted with
Elbow
Alex Clare
18 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 19 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
JULY 19
PICNIC AFISHA
Held every year since 2004, Picnic Afisha has turned into “a
little city within a big city”. Last year, over 50,000 people
attended this mecca for a second to none program of
music and arts, leisure and lifestyle activities, including a
designers market and a gastronomic area, special lectures
and workshops, cinema and crafts and a full spectrum of
amusements and sports. Attendees gather in the scenic
area of Kolomenskoe (a former royal estate, which now is
a historical, architectural and nature reserve museum) to
enjoy the engaging and versatile surroundings for differ-
ent audiences, either for individuals or families. Although
music plays an enormous role at this festival, its not the
primary aim of the event.
The festival is organized by the Afisha Magazine, a major
entertainment and listings biweekly. Over the years, Afisha
Picnic has seen performances from Blur, Hole and Courtney
Love, Kaiser Chiefs, Marina and the Diamonds, Janelle Mo-
nae, Editors, Black Lips, Glass Candy, The Teenagers, These
New Puritans, Mumiy Troll, Zemfira, Leningrad, Megapolis to
name just a few among more than 500 music acts that have
performed at the festival since its debut in 2004.
So what can we expect this year music-wise? Well, boys
and girls, get ready to put on your fanciest dancing shoes
because the kings of British funk and acid jazz Jamiroquai,
whose performances are marked by frontman Jay Kay’s
signature dancing and flying across the stage, are going
to make you party like it’s 1999! And that’s only the cherry
on top of the icing. A soul-warming and mind-blowing
mix of psychedlic rock/synthpop/indietronica will be de-
livered to you as only the American band MGMT knows
how to. Alternative rock legends Suede, who helped foster
Britpop as a musical genre with their earlier works, will be
pleasing the crowd with full-on, non-stop barrage of hits,
bursting with energy. And last but certainly not least, our
Slavic brothers from Belorussia Lyapis Trubetskoy will de-
liver their own special brand of ska-punk and reggae with
tongue-in-cheek lyrical undertones that never fail to get
the crowd riled up and skanking (a form of dancing prac-
ticed in the ska, ska punk, hardcore punk, reggae music
scenes). So this year Moscow’s most happening music and
lifestyle festival is going to about the same as last year’s
but only better! Q Kolomenskoye Museum Estate, Pr.
Andropova 39, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 644 22
22, www.picnic.afsha.ru
The coolest thing (aside from the line-up, of course) is
the setting. Who wouldn’t want to jump, dance, rave,
sing and mosh in such a historic place like the All-Russia
Exhibition Center, an architectural masterpiece with
fountains, amusement park rides and the huge space
rocket “Vostok” in the center of it all? So don’t miss
the chance to let yourself go and have a truly fantastic
time to some truly fantastic bands in the peak heat of
Moscow’s summer. Q All Russian Exhibition Centre
(VVTs), Prospekt Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 660
60 42, www.parklive.pro.
JULY 5
SUBBOTNIK
Another newcomer, Subbotnik’s first edition rocked Mos-
cow’s Gorky Park for the first time only last year, yet already
many await it as eagerly as the Brits await Glastonbury. An
amazing line-up and truly European vibes have made ev-
eryone believe that the festival industry in Russia is finally
catching up with the countries that have been in this busi-
ness since the 1970s.
In 2013, Subbotnik’s organizers got none other than Arc-
tic Monkeys to come and headline (for the band it was
their first ever gig in Russia), along with other not so trivial
names in the world of rock and electronica, such as Hurts,
Foals, Jessie Ware, Savages and Motorama.
This year doesn’t look too disappointing either! On July
5th Gorky Park will be welcoming British alt rock heavy-
weights and a favorite among Russia’s crowd Placebo,
the authors of hits such as “Every You, Every Me”, “Song
to Say Goodbye”, “Pure Morning”, “Special K”, “Meds” and
“The Bitter End” that have defined a generation, along
with their compatriots Kasabian that boast a number
of awards (Brit Awards, NME Awards, Q Awards, Mojo
Awards and others) and whose albums have gone multi
platinum.
It seems as though Subbotnik has a British theme this
year because the other announced acts are Metronomy,
Miles Kane (ex-The Rascals) and the talented young singer/
songwriter Jamie Woon. Q B-5, Gorky Park, Ul. Krymsky
Val 9, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.sub-
botnikfestival.com.
various national cuisines: Indian and Serbian, Finnish and
Spanish, Ukrainian and Uzbek. The unique Green Age ter-
ritory - a place of joy and harmony of body and soul – was
created for those who aim to discover something new on
their way to knowledge, self-development and creativ-
ity. Workshops, trainings, meetings with craftsmen and
healers, open lessons and master classes in yoga, qi gong,
meditation, massage, dances, tantra, mehendi and many
other events are held there. Q Etnomir, Borovsky dis-
trict, Kaluzhkaya oblast, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.
mintmusic.ru.
JUNE 14-15
USADBA JAZZ
The largest outdoor jazz
funk, world music, acid-
jazz, lounge, jazz-rock and
blues festival in Russia to-
day is Usadba Jazz, which
welcomes more than
40,000 visitors eager to
soak in the performances
of the best local and inter-
national artists. Although
musical performances are
a key ingredient, many
people are attracted to this
festival thanks to its rich cultural and leisure program with
activities ranging from volleyball to board games and, of
course, the huge beautiful park with its breath-taking ar-
chitecture and surrounding nature, clean air and the relax-
ing summer vibe.
Usadba Jazz has introduced a myriad of world-class artists
to the Russian audience and has given it the chance to en-
joy a musical niche marked by masterful compositions and
highly skillful performances. Over the years, the festival
has proudly hosted names such as Marcus Miller, Avishai
Cohen Trio, Branford Marsalis Quartet, Charlie Hunter Trio,
The Brand New Heavies, Yusef Lateef & Belmondo Quintet
– and this is just a tiny fraction of the virtuosos hailing from
all parts of the world!
This year there will be five stages. The biggest one of
them is Parter, where the biggest names of the world’s
jazz and funk scene perform. Just so all our jazz-loving
fans know that this is no joke, this year the likes of Bugge
‘n’ Friends, Marcia Castro and Balkan Beat Box will get
their swing, funk and groove on. A separate stage has
been designated to the hottest names of the New Or-
leans scene, such as Donald Harrison (including the
Mardi Gras Indian suits), Les Getrex ‘n’ Creole Cookin’ and
Tara Alexander.
Caprise stage is the territory of good ol’ rock n’ roll and
rockabilly and will have the pleasure of welcoming Ian Sie-
gal from the UK and The Betty Boop Lovers from Mother
Russia. And then there’s the Jazz Club stage, which prom-
ises to be a real hit because this is where young musicians
will get to organize jam sessions with world famous artists.
As we move down to the river, DJ’s will be spinning the fin-
est in contemporary electronica at the final stage.
This festival has gained such popularity that in 2011 the
organizers began a Saint Petersburg edition and this
year they’ll be taking it on the road. So don’t sweat it if
you’re not in Moscow to catch Usad’ba Jazz – there are
show dates for Voronezh (June 28th), Ekaterinburg (July
5th) and Saint Petersburg (July 19th). Or just use it as a
great excuse to do some traveling around Russia!Q State
Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse,
MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22, www.usadba-
jazz.ru.
JUNE 27 - 29
PARK LIVE FESTIVAL
Come on down to the All-Russia Exhibition Center from
June 27th-29th and rock out at Park Live Festival, “a big
festival for a big country”. This festival was held for the
first time last year yet it is now an event that simply
cannot be missed, an event that demonstrates that it
is possible to hold a grandiose three-day festival within
the boundaries of a big city. Lets just have a look at the
monsters of rock and electronica it brought to Russia
last year: Limp Bizkit, Poets of the Fall, NOFX, Justice,
Ladytron, Pendulum, DJ Fresh, iamamiwhoami and
Trentemøller.
This year, get ready another wave of awesomeness. The
first day will be headlined by no other than the king of
darkness and brutality himself, Marilyn Manson along with
Skillet, a mega successful Christian rock band from the
States (don’t worry, we are aware of the slight irony of put-
ting these two on the same day and the same stage!). Ex-
pect no ease up of the heaviness on the second day, when
Britain’s legendary rave/hardcore/industrial/breakbeat
group The Prodigy as well as Enter Shikari and Hollywood
Undead make an appearance on the Cosmos Stage, while
the Chemical Stage will be taken over by South Africa’s
rap-rave band Die Antwoord and Norway’s EDM talent
Savant.
Day 3 will see an epic finish to an epic line-up. Along
with Deftones, a highly distinguished alt metal band
and California’s finest, who will be headlining the Cos-
mos Stage, Wolfmother and Mastodon will make sure
you mosh your hearts out, as a more melodic and sen-
sual Lykke Li will be in charge of the Chemical Stage
with the help of Moderat giving the audience the best
of Berlin’s electronica.
Marcia Castro Die Antwoord
Kasabian
Jamiroquai
20 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 21 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Culture & Events Sport
Elysee, where his partners include nine-time World Rally
Champion Sebastien Loeb. There’s also a round of the lead-
ing European competition for young drivers, the Renault
World Series, which takes place on June 28-29.
SPARTAK’S NEW HOME
July 24 is set to be a big date for fans of Spartak Moscow,
and anyone interested in how Russia’s 2018 World Cup
might look. It’s due to be the grand opening of the new
Spartak Stadium – called the Otkrytiye Arena following a
sponsorship deal with a local bank – and will be the first
time the 40,000-seater venue at Tushino is open to the
public.
However, the grand opening has already been thrown into
confusion. Plans to kick off with an exhibition game be-
tween Spartak and Dinamo Kiev, long-standing rivals from
the days of the Soviet Championship, were scuppered by
the political tensions between Russia and Ukraine. At the
time of writing a new opponent has not been announced,
although Spartak fans are keen to welcome Red Star Bel-
grade in honor of the long-standing friendship between
supporters of the two clubs.
Late July is also likely to bring the start of the Russian
Premier League season, which will feature Spartak and
Moscow rivals Lokomotiv, Dynamo and CSKA. Games
are usually shared between the Lokomotiv Stadium at
Cherkizovskaya and Arena Khimki in a suburb on the way
to Sheremetyevo Airport.
By Andy Potts
GET INVOLVED!
Summer is the perfect time to head to Moscow’s parks
and get some exercise. Gorky Park has long been the
favorite, and its beach volleyball courts tend to be
booked up fast. But it’s also a great spot to cycle or roll-
erblade, and the popular free table tennis is back again
this summer.
For the more energetic the Panda Park outdoor assault
courses are also back in business. These hair-raising
ropewalks through the trees can be found in sev-
eral different parks, including Tsaritsyno, Sokolniki and
Gorky. Different routes cater for different ages and fit-
ness levels, and it’s just the thing for adventurous kids.
ful eye, pictures from the ephemera of the mass media
are collected, scanned and reworked into enduring art-
works. Each piece in the ‘Biosphere’ cycle, for example,
took about three months to complete. The end result is far
removed from traditional understandings of collage; it’s a
fully integrated work in its own right.
Shangin, who was born in 1983, has been developing his
style since the mid-2000s. Earlier this year he completed
his more recent series, Nightlife, which explores the mys-
terious dreamworld of life after dark. His work perhaps falls
most neatly under the post-realism banner thanks to the
way it takes a heavily stylized, often hyper-realist view of
the world and then refashions this artificial magazine re-
ality into an almost surrealist juxtaposition of diverse ele-
ments and symbols.
His works explore different environments – especially the
nocturnal world, where Shangin believes people are free
to let their minds race towards the lives they wish to lead
– or the timeless clash of materialist and emotional val-
ues, as seen in the series ‘Need to be Loved’. But it’s not all
high-brow concepts and forehead-furrowing philosophy.
These ultra-modern works of art represent perfect, dis-
tinctive accompaniments to the apartments and offices of
contemporary Moscow. The attraction, largely, stems from
the bright color and intricate detail – something the artist
says can help banish depression by distracting the mind
from negative thoughts.
For more details, and contact information, see www.
pavel-shangin.ru
REVVING UP AT THE
RACEWAY
Petrolheads are gearing up for the summer action at the
Moscow Raceway. This year sees three big race meetings
– including a chance to see Russia’s first F1 driver Vitaly
Petrov in DTC action – as well as the annual City Racing
event around the Kremlin Walls.
The city center event has become a fixture of the sum-
mer calendar in Moscow and this year’s event on June 21
sticks to a tried and trusted formula. Starting and finishing
next to St. Basil’s Cathedral, drivers show off their skills on
a course which runs along the riverside before turning up
Ulitsa Mokhovka and pulling a sharp U-turn at the end of
Tverskaya and returning to the start line (the cobbles on
Red Square itself make it impossible for these vehicles to
attempt a full circuit). Formula One cars and KamAZ racing
trucks take pride of place in a downtown festival of speed
and power.
For those who prefer competitive events, though, the Mos-
cow Raceway is the place to go. It’s a little way out of town,
near Volokolamsk, but the recently-opened track is steadily
establishing itself on the circuit for various racing contests.
This year’s highlight is probably the return of the DTM
(Deutsche Tourenwagen Masters, or German Touring Car
Championship) for a second visit to Russia. Vitaly Petrov,
the Vyborg Rocket, is the local contender and he’s hoping
for plenty of support on his home track.
However, the Russian racer only confirmed his first season
in this competition in mid-April, and admitted he was in
for a baptism of fire. “DTM cars are very particular,” he said,
“and the level of competition is possibly even greater than
in Formula One. In qualifying there are only a few seconds
between the fastest and slowest drivers.”That intense com-
petition, reinforced by the similarities between the vehicles
from different manufacturers, makes this event far more of
a test of driving – as opposed to design – skills. The DTM
event is on July 11-13.
Earlier the Raceway hosts a stage of the FIA World Tour-
ing Car Championship on June 7-8. Russia’s Lada Sport is
represented here and includes 2012 Champion Robert Huff
among its drivers as well as Russia’s Mikhail Kozlovsky. Last
year’s champion Yvan Muller is in a new car, the Citroen C-
PAVEL SHANGIN
From the cover of a magazine
A fantasy of illuminated trees and rockets racing to the
skies; a crazy Technicolor aquarium; a collection of made-
up faces interspersed with cosmetics; a spring forest
blooming on another planet: welcome to the imaginative
world of Russian artist Pavel Shangin.
This Volgograd-born creator of sumptuous collages has
earned increasing fame on the local art scene for his will-
ingness to plunder the glossy illustrations of magazines.
Having harvested the images he likes, he then reinvents
them into elaborate, colorful prints with a lifespan far be-
yond their initial week on the shelves. This is more than
just a parade of glamor and fashion; among Shangin’s
favorite sources of inspiration is the National Geographic-
style journal Vokrug Sveta (Around the World), with its
eye-catching array of flora, fauna and folk culture from all
corners of the globe. The impact of this is immediately evi-
dent in his ‘Biosphere’ series, which explores and subverts
our natural world.
Don’t be fooled by the word ‘collage’: this is no primary
school game with pots of glue and last season’s football
stickers. First there are months of scouring magazines for
the most suitable images. Then, under Shangin’s watch-
June - July 2014 23 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Features
«Дом Гоголя» — государственное учреждение
культуры многофункционального типа объединяющее
«Дом Гоголя» государственное учреждение «Дом Гоголя» государственное учреждение
мемориальный музей писателя, научную библиотеку,
культуры многофункционального типа, объединяющее культуры многофункционального типа, объединяющее
исследовательский центр и выставочный зал Первый и
мемориальный музей писателя, научную библиотеку, мемориальный музей писателя, научную библиотеку,
единственный в России мемориальный музей Н.В.
исследовательский центр и выставочный зал. Первый и исследовательский центр и выставочный зал. Первый и
Гоголя расположен в историческом здании старинной
единственный в России мемориальный музей Н.В. единственный в России мемориальный музей Н.В.
городской усадьбы XVIII – XIX вв в самом центре
Гоголя расположен в историческом здании старинной Гоголя расположен в историческом здании старинной
Москвы, на Никитском бульваре. В этом особняке
городской усадьбы XVIII XIX вв. в самом центре городской усадьбы XVIII XIX вв. в самом центре
провёл писатель последние годысвоей жизни: здесь он
Москвы, на Никитском бульваре. В этом особняке Москвы, на Никитском бульваре. В этом особняке
работал над вторым томом поэмы «Мёртвые души»
провёл писатель последние годы своей жизни: здесь он провёл писатель последние годы своей жизни: здесь он
духовной прозой, готовил к изданию собрание
работал над вторым томом поэмы «Мёртвые души», работал над вторым томом поэмы «Мёртвые души»,
сочинений и перед кончиной сжёг почти все свои
духовной прозой, готовил к изданию собрание духовной прозой, готовил к изданию собрание
бумаги. Во дворе усадьбы установлен памятник Гоголю
сочинений и перед кончиной сжёг почти все свои сочинений и перед кончиной сжёг почти все свои
работы Н А Андреева созданный скульптором к 100
бумаги. Во дворе усадьбы установлен памятник Гоголю бумаги. Во дворе усадьбы установлен памятник Гоголю
летию со дня рождения писателя и имеющий свою
работы Н.А. Андреева, созданный скульптором к 100 работы Н.А. Андреева, созданный скульптором к 100
непростую, очень интересную и драматическую
д р д щ д р д щ
историю Экспозиция в которой гармонично сочетают-
непростую, очень интересную и драматическую непростую, очень интересную и драматическую
ся традиционные музейные приёмы и использование
историю. Экспозиция, в которой гармонично сочетают историю. Экспозиция, в которой гармонично сочетают
современных аудиовизуальных и мультимедийных
ся традиционные музейные приёмы и использование ся традиционные музейные приёмы и использование
средств, включает в себя шесть залов, объединенных
современных аудиовизуальных и мультимедийных современных аудиовизуальных и мультимедийных
темой «Гоголь — загадка третьего тысячелетия. Жизнен-
средств, включает в себя шесть залов, объединенных средств, включает в себя шесть залов, объединенных
ный и творческий путь писателя». Коллекция музея
темой «Гоголь загадка третьего тысячелетия. Жизнен темой «Гоголь загадка третьего тысячелетия. Жизнен
насчитывает несколько тысяч экспонатов: книги,
р у ц у р у ц у
предметы дворянского быта, гравюры, литографии
насчитывает несколько тысяч экспонатов: книги, насчитывает несколько тысяч экспонатов: книги,
предметы дворянского быта, гравюры, литографии еты дворянского быта, гравюры, ли
Memorial museum and science library
Moscow, Nikitsky bul. 7a, +7 (495) 690-58-81
www.domgogolya.ru
Gogol House
ARBAT STREET, ONE OF THE OLDEST STREETS
IN THE CITY AND MAIN ARTERIES OF MOSCOW,
IS NOT JUST A STREET. IT IS PART
OF THE RUSSIAN CULTURAL PSYCHE
AND HAS BEEN THE HEART OF MANY KEY
RUSSIAN EVENTS THROUGHOUT HISTORY.
IT IS SAID AMONGST RUSSIANS THAT
ONLY THOSE BORN ON ARBAT ARE TRUE
MUSCOVITES.
Old and New Arbat
HISTORY OF OLD ARBAT
Arbat has a diverse and rich residential history, ranging
from merchants and craftsmen, to aristocrats, to housing
the headquarters of the Tsar’s bodyguards, to becoming
the favourite haunt of Moscow’s intelligentsia (artists, au-
thors and academics etc), to Soviet officials. The Arbat we
can see today has retained and protected it’s legacy as well
as keeping up with the times; statues have been erected
in memory of its famous inhabitants; several museums
are dotted along the street – including the very flat that
Pushkin used to live in; as well as concert halls and theatres,
street artists, souvenir shops and shops, restaurants, cafés
and bars.
HISTORY OF NEW ARBAT
When Nikita Krushchev was premier of the Soviet Un-
ion, his admiration of United States was reflected in
several of his antics, including his desire to make New
Arbat into a replica of both Broadway and Las Vegas,
complete with casinos, bright lights, colours and sky
scrapers. Built in 1968 and originally called Kalinin
Prospekt, New Arbat (Novy Arbat) used to be heralded
as an archetype of Soviet urban planning, but today is
more famous for being a bright and loud strip of eater-
ies, clubs and high end department stores such as the
brand made famous for designing the Russian Olympic
team’s outfits, Bosco.
New Arbat regained its name in the 90s after the fall of
communism and has since expanded and grown to be-
come a modern thoroughfare in downtown Moscow.
Aside from this, New Arbat is a typical example of a Mos-
cow street, with the towering, Stalinist skyscrapers, juxta-
posing the beautiful, classical Russian Orthodox Church of
St Simeon Stolpnik. This church was turned into an animal
and bird exhibition during the Soviet era, but was restored
to its original purpose in the 90s.
THE BOULEVARD RING
With a circumference of 9km, the Boulevard Ring circles the
centre of Moscow. Taking approximately two hours to walk
the full circle, it is the perfect opportunity for visitors to the
city to take a leisurely stroll through the city and see various
sights, whilst still enjoying some leafy greenery.
Amongst the attractions include monuments to several of
Russia’s cultural forefathers such as Gogol, the playwright
Griboedev and Soviet bard Vladimir Vysotsky. The ‘swim-
ming horses’ monument near Kropotkinskaya metro dedi-
cated to Mikhail Sholokhov, author of ‘Quiet Flows the Don’
is fantastically beautiful.
Planned out in the years after Moscow was almost entirely
burnt to the ground during the Napoleonic wars , the ring
replaced the original medieval walls that protected the
White City. As with much of Russia’s love of all things Euro-
pean, it was inspired by the boulevards of Paris and Austria.
Open air exhibitions are regularly held at different points
along the length of the boulevard.
THE GOGOL HOUSE
In the very center of Moscow near the Arbat Square, with
its stone arcades and balconies may seem like your aver-
age 18th century merchant mansion but there is a lot more
to it than meets the eye. This house has a very rich history
dating back to the early 17th century and had belonged
to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, govern-
ment officials, army generals and even the members of
the Tolstoy family. However, the most famous resident to
have ever inhabited this manor was none other than Niko-
lai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the most preeminent figures
of the natural school of Russian literary realism and author
of such classics as “The Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The
Government Inspector” and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Wel-
come to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Li-
brary! Although he had only spent the last four years of his
life here, this is the place where the writer worked on the
second volume of Dead Souls. Here, he burnt the manu-
scripts of the poem. And in this very house, on February
21, 1852 the writer died. The Gogol House is the only place
in Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive
by combining a research library of over 250.000 volumes,
a research centre, an exhibition hall and a memorial muse-
um. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
695 92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00,
Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue
and last day of the month. Admission 20 - 100Rbl.
4
24 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 25 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Features Features
cafe & bar
MAYAKOVSKY THEATRE
The Mayakovsky theatre
has a long history dating
back to 1920. Its stage
saw world-famous actors
such as Sarah Bernardt,
Eleonare Duse and Ernst
von Possart, and be-
cause of their presence
it was also known as the
“International” theatre.
Another person connected to the theatre was Vsevolod
Meyerhold, who had a huge influence on modern thea-
tre in Russia, but - as many modernizers those days - died
in 1940 during Stalin’s purges. The theatre remains one
of Moscow’s favorite ones and its actors are among the
most famous in Moscow and Russia for that matter. The
Mayakovsky theatre stages classical pieces from Gogol,
Dostoevsky and Chekhov. One of the best plays, Talents
and Admirers, is a 19th century comedy by Russian play-
wright Alexander Ostrovsky, who was largely responsible
for reforming Russian theatre in the late 19th century. The
play is a humorous take on the nature of artistic talent, the
theatre, success and failure. In this performance the stage
is practically devoid of decoration and the audience be-
comes so involved in the lively performance of the actors
that you barely notice the absence of it. The only item on
the stage is a Russian samovar, symbolizing Russian daily
life. QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru. 3
dreds of hand-painted tiles, all expounding on the theme of
international friendship; Victor Tsoi’s Wall, a unique place of
pilgrimage for fans of the cult Soviet rock musician who died
aged 28. Just after turning onto Nikitsky boulevard, from
Arbatskaya Ploschad, on the right hand side of the street, is
an antique shop, which holds fascinating trinkets, that wink
at passers by from the window displays beckoning them in.
THEATRES
AND CONCERT HALLS
In order to perform the many masterpieces of all Russia’s fa-
mous writers and musicians, there are many concert halls and
theatres throughout Moscow, and The Arbat area is no ex-
ception. Old Arbat itself is home to the well known Vakhtan-
gov Theatre, easily recognised by the gold statue of Princess
Turandot outside. The Vakhtangov Theatre, was originally the
studio of Chekhov’s close friend and mentor, Yevgeny Bagra-
tionovich Vakhtangov, and was named in honour of him four
years after his death. It is celebrated for it’s artists impecca-
ble skills and first rate performances, which are a broad mix
of both Russian and foreign classical and modern plays. For
music lovers, about 150m down from the Greater Church of
the Ascension on the right hand side of Bolshaya Nikitskaya
Street, is The Grand Hall of the Moscow Conservatory. It is one
of the most famous concert venues in the world, known not
just for the beautifully decorated interior, but also for it’s or-
gan: The Organ Cavaille-Coll, which was regarded as one of
the best in the world during the Paris exhibition of 1900.
CURRENT DAY ARBAT
Today in 2014, the cobbles of Old Arbat may remain the same,
but the craftsmen and authors have moved on. In their place
Arbat boasts an impressive array of cafes, restaurants and bars.
Walking down the street, visitors are presented with a carni-
val of portrait artists, caricaturists, living statues, circus acts or
musicians and street vendors. Although visitors beware! Whilst
the souvenirs may look beautiful, the prices are much higher
than those at other markets like Izmailovo, so be prepared to
bargain and haggle your way to a price you deem reasonable.
STATUES
There are many statues along Arbat and the surrounding
area, with the poet Pushkin being one of the most popular
subjects. Outside the Pushkin Memorial Apartment, stands
a happy statue of the married Pushkin and his wife Natalya.
One statue almost impossible to miss, is the gold fountain
monument to Princess Turandot outside the Vahtangov The-
atre. Moscow’s favourite bard, Bulat Okudzhava, who wrote
many poems and odes dedicated to the street, is also im-
mortalised in bronze on the corner of Krivoarbatsky Pereulok
and Arbat. Gogol’s statue is located on Nikitsky Boulevard,
with the names of his characters engraved on the pedestal.
THINGS TO DO
As well as multiple restaurants and bars, there are several other
attractions in the Arbat area, such as Moscow’s White House
on New Arbat, the home of Moscow’s government and down
the little side street of Malaya Molchanovka, is the Lermontov
House Museum, the house where the “Hero of Our Time”nov-
elist spent some of his last years before he died of septicaemia,
and one of the few surviving wooden buildings in Moscow.
The “October” cinema, which was built to mark the 50th an-
niversary of the October Revolution can also be found on
New Arbat, and across the river, over the Novoarbatsky Bridge,
stands the Hotel Ukraina, one of Stalin’s forbiddingly beautiful
and impressive Seven Sisters, skyscrapers which were built in
1947 to commemorate Moscow’s 800th anniversary. (Another
one of the Seven Sisters, housing the ministry of Foreign Affairs
is located at the end of Arbat, on Smolenskaya.)
Following the Pushkin trail, walking about 200 metres up Ni-
kitsky Boulevard visitors will come across the Greater Church
of the Ascension, where Pushkin married his young wife,
Natalya Goncharova. A pleasant walk up the rest of Tverskoy
Boulevard, about 1.5km, will then bring you to Pushkinskaya,
where yet another statue of the Moscow’s beloved writer sits
and looks over the square. Looking for some holiday reading?
Dom Knigi, (House of Books) on New Arbat, is the biggest
and most famous book store in Moscow. It has three floors of
books for sale in multiple languages, including several teach
yourself Russian books for those wanting to get further ac-
quainted with the Russian language.
To find slightly tamer, but no less interesting attractions,
starting at building No 1 of Old Arbat, walk about 100m
and on the right hand side is the Wall of Peace, a moving
and modern addition to the historic area, covered with hun-
M
A
L
. G
R
U
Z
I N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
V
A
L
U
L
.
STO
LYARN
Y PER.
A
L
E
X
A
N
D
R
A
N
E
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
B
O
L
. G
R
U
Z
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. K
O
Z
IK
H
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. S
A
D
O
V
A
Y
A
U
L
.
1
-Y
A
B
R
E
S
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2
-Y
A
B
R
E
S
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
C
H
A
Y
A
N
O
V
A
U
L
.
D
O
L
G
O
R
U
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
F
A
D
E
E
V
A
U
L
.
K
R
A
S
IN
A
U
L
.
K
R
A
S
IN
A
U
L
.
L
E
S
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
. D
M
I
T
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
M
IU
S
S
K
A
Y
A
P
L
.
S
Y
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
TRIUMFALNAYAPL.
T
R
Y
O
K
H
P
R
U
D
N
Y
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
A
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2
-Y
A
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
3
-Y
A
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
V
A
S
IL
Y
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
Z
O
O
L
O
G
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. B
R
O
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
.P
A
T
R
IA
R
S
H
Y
P
E
R
.
M
A
L
. B
R
O
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L
. S
A
D
O
V
A
Y
A
-
K
U
D
R
I
N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
P
IR
ID
O
N
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
A
R
B
A
T
U
L
.
BOL. MOLCHANOVKA UL.
F
I
L
I
P
P
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
GRANATNY PER.
K
A
L
A
S
H
N
Y
P
E
R
. K
H
LE
B
N
Y
P
E
R
.
KOMPOZITORSKAYA UL.
M
AL. NIKITSKAYA UL.
BOL. NIKITSKAYA UL.
B
O
L. N
IK
ITSK
A
YA
U
L.
M
A
L
. Z
N
A
M
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
E
R
Z
L
Y
A
K
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
I
K
I
T
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
N
O
V
I
N
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
NOVY ARBAT UL.
PL. NIKITSKIE VOROTA P
O
V
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
SKA
TERTN
Y PER.
S
P
IR
ID
O
N
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
T
R
U
B
N
I
K
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
V
S
P
O
L
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
.
A
F
A
N
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. V
L
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Z
N
A
M
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
E
N
E
Z
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
P
L
O
T
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
SIVTSEV VRAZHEK PER.
S
T
A
R
O
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
E
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L. LE
V
S
H
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
U
T
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
CH
ISTY PER.
E
R
O
P
K
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
GAGARINSKY PER.
GLAZOVSKY PER.
G
O
G
O
L
E
V
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
K
H
IL
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
K
O
R
O
B
E
Y
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
K
R
O
P
O
T
K
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
U
R
S
O
V
O
Y
P
E
R
.
MOLOCHNY PER.
2
-Y
O
B
Y
D
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
O
S
T
O
Z
H
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
P
O
M
E
R
A
N
T
S
E
V
P
E
R
.
P
O
Z
H
A
R
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
PRECHISTENSKY PER.
S
M
O
L
E
N
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
S
O
Y
M
O
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
K
R
Y
M
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
N
O
V
O
K
R
Y
M
S
K
Y
P
R
.
K
R
YM
SK
Y P
R
O
E
ZD
P
U
S
H
K
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
K
R
YM
SK
Y V
A
L.
B
O
L
. D
M
IT
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. L
U
B
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
I
L
Y
U
T
I
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
E
G
L
I
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
E
T
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
R
O
Z
H
D
E
S
T
V
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
STO
LESH
N
IKO
V
PER.
B
A
L
C
H
U
G
U
L
.
G
A
Z
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
ILIN
KA
U
L.
IP
A
T
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
R
A
S
N
A
Y
A
P
L
. (R
E
D
S
Q
U
A
R
E
)
KREMLEVSKAYA NAB.
KUZNETSKY MOST UL.
M
A
N
E
Z
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
O
H
O
V
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
IK
IT
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
IK
O
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
I
K
O
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
A
Y
A
P
L
.
O
K
H
O
T
N
Y
R
Y
A
D
U
L
.
PUSHECHNAYA UL.
R
O
M
A
N
O
V
P
E
R
.
R
Y
B
N
Y
P
E
R
.
S
T
A
R
A
Y
A
P
L
.
TEATRALNY PROEZD
VARVARKAUL.
VASILYEVSKY
SPUSKPL.
SOFIYSKAYA NAB.
V
O
L
H
O
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
E
R
S
E
N
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
L
. S
T
A
R
O
M
O
N
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Y
A
K
I
M
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
O
T
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
L
O
T
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
L
O
T
N
A
Y
A
P
L
.
1
-Y
G
O
L
U
T
V
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
A
D
A
SH
E
V
SK
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
1
-Y
K
A
D
A
S
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
L
A
V
R
U
S
H
I
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
A
L
. Y
A
K
I
M
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
PYZHEVSKY PER.
S
T
A
R
O
M
O
N
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
Y
A
K
IM
A
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
Y
A
K
I
M
A
N
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
B
O
L
.
O
R
D
Y
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. P
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
. O
R
D
Y
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
.P
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
APAKOVA PR.
1
-Y
D
O
B
R
Y
N
I
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KAZACHY PER.
2
- Y
K
A
Z
A
C
H
Y
P
E
R
.
K
A
Z
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KHVOSTOV PER.
KOROVY VAL UL.
L
E
N
IN
S
K
Y
P
R
.
L
Y
U
S
I
N
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
R
O
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
Y
T
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
POGORELSKY PER.
1-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
ZHITNAYA UL.
NOVORYAZANSKAYAUL.
VERKHNYAYA SYROM
YATNICHESKAYA UL.
N
IKO
LO
YAM
SKAYA UL.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
TETERINSKY PER.
A
K
A
D
E
M
IK
A
S
A
K
H
A
R
O
V
A
P
R
.
BOL. BALKANSKY PER.
BO
L. KH
ARITO
N
YEVSKY PER.
B
O
L
. K
O
Z
L
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. SPASSKAYA UL.
D
O
K
U
C
H
A
E
V
P
E
R
.
F
U
R
M
A
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
G
U
S
Y
A
T
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
K
A
L
A
N
C
H
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KOMSOMOLSKAYAPL.
K
R
A
S
N
O
P
R
U
D
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
S
H
K
O
V
A
U
L
.
NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL.
S
A
D
O
V
A
Y
A
-S
P
A
S
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L.
V
E
R
K
H
N
Y
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
S
E
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
C
H
IS
T
O
P
R
U
D
N
Y
B
U
L
.
K
A
ZA
K
O
V
A
U
L.
POKROVKA UL.
P
O
K
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
Z
H
U
K
O
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
C
H
A
P
LY
G
IN
A
U
L
.
Z
E
M
L
Y
A
N
O
Y
V
A
L
U
L
.
A
R
M
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BERNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
BOL. KAZENNY PER.
D
U
RA
SO
V
SKY PER.
K
A
ZA
RM
EN
Y PER. K
O
L
P
A
C
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
S
M
O
D
A
M
IA
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
L
Y
A
L
I
N
P
E
R
.
PODKOLOKOLNY PER.
P
O
D
S
O
S
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
P
O
K
R
O
V
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
P
E
V
C
H
E
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
SEREBRYANICHESKAYA NAB.
S
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
R
O
S
A
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
S
T
Y
IN
S
K
Y
P
R
.
VORONTSOVO POLE Y
A
U
Z
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
P
O
T
A
P
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
T
E
L
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
V
E
R
K
H
N
Y
A
Y
A
R
A
D
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
BOL. TATARSKY PER.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
2
-Y
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
O
ZERKO
VSKY PER.
RU
N
O
VSKY PER.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
STARY TO
LM
ACH
EVSKY PER.
B
A
K
H
R
U
S
H
I
N
A
U
L
.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
K
H
O
L
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
O
V
O
K
U
Z
N
E
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
T
R
O
C
H
E
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
U
B
I
N
I
N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
3
-Y
M
O
N
E
T
C
H
I
K
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
5-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
PAVELETSKAYAPL.
STREMYANNY PER.
VALOVAYA UL.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
S
E
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
R
A
Y
A
B
A
S
M
A
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
A
LEXAN
D
RA SO
LZH
EN
ITSIN
A U
L.
M
A
R
K
S
IS
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
N
IS
L
A
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
V
O
R
O
N
T
S
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
3-Y KRU
TITSKY PER.
K
R
U
T
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
N
O
V
O
S
P
A
S
S
K
Y
P
R
.
B
O
B
R
O
V
P
E
R
.
GROKHOLSKY PER.
M
Y
A
S
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
L
U
B
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
MAROSEYKA UL.
MOSKVORETSKAYA NAB.
RAUSHSKAYA NAB.
K
R
IV
O
K
O
L
E
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
SAD
O
VN
ICH
ESKAYA U
L.
KLIMENTOVSKY PER.
OVCHINNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
P
Y
A
T
N
I
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
Y
A
T
N
I
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
E
R
P
U
K
H
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. KISELNY PER.
BO
L. SU
KH
A
REV
KA
YA
PL.
BOL. SUKHAREVSKY PER.
BOL. GOLOVIN PER.
KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER.
PUSHKAREV PER.
LUKOV PER. ASHCHEULOV PER.
SELIVERSTOV PER.
PROSVIRIN PER.
DAEV PER.
SRETENSKY TUPIK
D
E
L
E
G
A
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
DUROVA UL.
G
I
L
Y
A
R
O
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
K
O
P
T
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
. (
1
Y
)
K
O
S
T
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
Z
IT
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
LAVRSKY PER.
MAL. KARETNY PER.
MAL. SUKHAREVSKAYA PL.
O
L
Y
M
P
IY
S
K
Y
P
R
.
PETROVSKY BUL.
P
E
T
R
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
POSLEDNY PER.
P
R
O
S
P
E
K
T
M
I
R
A
SADOVAYA-KARETNAYA UL.
S
A
M
O
T
Y
O
C
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
H
C
H
E
P
K
I
N
A
U
L
.
S
R
E
T
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
SRETENSKY BUL.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
S
V
E
T
N
O
Y
B
U
L
.
VARSONOFYEVSKY PER.
B
O
L
. P
A
L
A
S
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
A
L
. KOZIKHINSKY P
E
R
.
B
O
G
O
Y
A
V
L
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BRODNIKOV P
E
R
.
MANEZHNAYA
PL.
G
O
L
I
K
O
V
S
K
Y

PER.
V
A
S
N
E
T
S
O
V
A
PER.
ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL.
KH
O
KH
LO
V
SKY
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
A
B
O
R
O
D
I
N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
K
R
A
SN
A
YA
P
R
E
SN
YA
U
L.
K
U
T
U
Z
O
V
S
K
Y
P
R
.
T
A
R
A
S
A
S
H
E
V
C
H
E
N
K
O
N
A
B
.
BOL. DOROGOM
ILOVSKAYA UL.
BURDENKO UL.
KIEV
SKAYA U
L.
P
L
Y
U
S
H
C
H
I
K
H
A
U
L
.
SMOLENSKAYA UL.
KRASNOPRESNEN
SK
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
2-YA BO
RO
DIN
S
KAYA UL.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
LE
N
IN
G
R
A
D
SK
Y
P
R
.
K
R
A
S
N
O
P
R
O
L
E
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
U
S
H
K
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
P
L
.
SADOVAYA-TRIUM
FALNAYA UL.
ST
R
A
ST
N
O
Y
B
U
L.
B
O
L
. K
I
S
L
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
L
E
O
N
T
IE
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
VOZDVIZHENKA UL.
V
O
Z
N
E
S
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
ZN
A
M
E
N
K
A
U
L.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
1
9
0
5
G
O
D
A
U
L
.
BOL. TISHINSKY PER.
E
R
M
O
L
A
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
G
O
R
O
KHOVSKY PER.
2-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
SREDNY TISHINSKY PER.
U
L
. Y
U
L
IU
S
A
F
U
C
H
IK
A
U
L
. G
A
S
H
E
K
A
O
RU
ZH
EIN
Y PER.
M
A
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
R
Y
U
S
O
V
P
E
R
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
M
A
L
. G
N
E
Z
D
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
KA
M
ER
G
ER
SKY PER
.
G
E
O
R
G
IE
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
V
E
T
O
S
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. C
H
E
R
K
A
S
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
USPENSKY PER.
1-Y KOLOBOVSKY PER
RAKHMANOVSKY PER.
BOL. SERGIEVSKY PER.
PER. PECHATNIKOV
SREDNY KARETNY PER.
TROITSKAYA UL.
M
E
S
H
C
H
A
N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
MAL. GOLOVIN PER.
RYBNIKOV PER.
U
L
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
YA
S
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
U
L.
M
A
L
. K
H
A
R
IT
O
N
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
L
T
S
O
P
ER
. O
G
O
R
O
D
N
A
YA
SLO
B
O
D
A
U
L
. M
A
L
. L
U
B
Y
A
N
K
A
S
V
E
R
C
H
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Z
L
A
T
O
U
S
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
IT
A
Y
G
O
R
O
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
O
R
L
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
L
IK
H
O
V
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.
U
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
R
Y
A
D
1-Y SAMOTECHNY PER.
4
-Y
A
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
UL. KLIM
ASHKINA
RASTO
RGUEV PER.
V
O
L
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
O
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
L. Z
A
M
O
R
E
N
O
V
A
B
O
L. P
R
E
D
T
E
C
H
E
N
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
KA
R
M
A
N
ITSKY PER
.
RUZHEINY PER.
S
E
C
H
E
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
U
L
. B
O
L
. P
O
LY
A
N
K
A
UL. ZATSEPA
V
ISH
N
YA
KO
V
SKY PER
.
SH
LYU
ZO
V
A
YA
N
A
B
.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
U
L
.
Y
A
U
Z
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KO
M
ISSA
R
IATSKY PER
.
N
O
VO
SPASSKY PER.
U
L
. G
V
O
Z
D
E
V
A
N
A
R
O
D
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
5-Y KOTELN
ICHESKY PER.
TA
G
A
N
SKAYA
U
L.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
L
T
S
O
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
L
T
S
O
U
L
. B
O
L
S
H
IE
K
A
M
E
N
S
H
C
H
IK
I
KO
ZH
EVN
ICH
ESKAYA
U
L.
1
-Y
Z
A
C
H
A
T
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
F
R
U
N
Z
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
ROCHDELSKAYA UL.
S
T
A
R
O
P
IM
E
N
O
V
SKY PER.
D
E
G
T
YA
R
N
Y PER.
N
A
S
T
A
S
Y
IN
S
K
Y PER.
1-Y VO
LKONSKY PER.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
A
S
M
A
N
N
Y
PER
.
A
R
K
H
A
N
G
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
O
G
L
IN
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
SKO
R
N
YA
Z
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
PROTOCHNY PER.
BOL. TOLMACHEVSKY PER.
M
A
L
. V
L
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
N
E
O
PA
LIM
O
V
SKY PER.
2-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
2
8
2
3
4
0
2
0
1
4
8
1
6
1
2
6
6
1
2
26
2
16
20
28
31
8
2
7
1
1
0
2
0
1
4
4
4
23 21
25
4
8
38
28
39
30
28
2
8
2
7
1
9
1
3
1
3
1
3
9
2
2
10
4
22
22
15
9
8
4
1
0
9
22 4
1
0
1 1
5
1
2
1
1
3
4
1
2
1
5
1
2
8
1
5
1
3
1
1
4
9
1
1
1
5
3
1
3
1
0
4
7
2
1
2
9
1
1
4
4
0
4
9
3
7
2
7
2
5
1
7
4
8
5
3
1
1
6
3
5 3
8
2
8
1
8
1
2 3
4
8
7
2
6
-8
2
5
10-12
22
11
1
5
3
3
2
9
4
1
2
4
1
6
2
5
1
0
17 11
2
2
3 2
2
32
36
22
4
7
7
7
19
1
9
9
1
9
2
2
22
3
6
8
1
2
3
3
2
0
3
9
2
3
2
4
6
1
9
2
2
52
43
9
4
4
7
7
1
4
8
1
1
5
5
10
4
1
6
1
0
32
5
4
9
6
3
2
2
7
5
4
36
6
5
18 10
10
14
10
8
1
4
1
3
2
9
6
1
2
2
2
1
1
8
9
2
0
3
5
4
4
1
4
2
1
2
9
2
0
3
0 3
9
4
2
1
7
1
9
1
4 1
7
3
1
3
0
3
7
7
5
7
1
7
1
3
8
3
4
3
7
4
7
2
4
3
7
6
2
5 2
0
2
2
2
4
2
83
54
6
3
0
2
7
3
5
1
5
4
2
4
5
3
3
1
1
1
2
8
9
8
6
5
4
15
12
23
25
13
11
20
16
18
11
10
1
5
10
19
35
43
30
10
5
5
2
5
2
8
3
6
5
4
6
7
7
1
4
8
4
9
6
5
3
4
4
1
5
3
6
3
5
8
5
6
3
3
1
3
6
2
2
2
6
4
2
4
16
14
4
3
5
7
3
2
6
16
4
16
19
10
4
6
4
7
2
5
4
4
1
2
4
6
6
3
2
3
9
4
3
2
9
2
4
2
5
5
5
6
6
4
2
8
2
3
9
13
16
9
1
1
2
2
21
19
13
8
4
5
1
8
1
2
5
9
1
5
10
18
30
3
3
36
10
5
6
16
13
2
7
2
6
18
13
6
3
1
8
1
4
15
3
1
3
14
24
37
16
24
1
2
8
44
2
6
4
2
12
4
2
7
1
8
3
5
5 15
10
1
0
2
8
3
8
9
1
7
1
9
7
1
3
3
3
3
1
1
3
3
2
2
9
2
1
1
0
5
2
8
1
4
2
6
2
5
2
8
2
4
24
26
1
6
12
2
3
2
6
6
5
5
5
5
7
5
3
3
3
2
1
2
3
3
3
9
9
5
5
5
5
9
5
4
5
15
1
5
1
4
27
5
9
15
5
5
5
7
3
5
3
5
3
2
4
0
4
1
4
7
13
5
6
4
2
13
2
8
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
11
13
8
1
8
1
1
1
3
6
6
1
2
12
12
1
4
1
0
1
0
13
7
2
4
2
4
1
3
2
1
0
2
8
8
6
6
6
6
10
4
4
4
4
8
6
6
2
3
6
4
4
6
6
1
2 7
4
4
4
8
4
4
12
24
15
11
1
1
1
4
8
3
3
7
3
2
4
8
10
1
0
1
4
1
0
4
1
8
1
1 3
3
17
7
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
8
3
3
2
4
2
2
2
8
4
6
5
0
2
16
3
33
11
2
14
1
5
3
1
2
1
7
2
5
2
3
2
6
3
5
3
3
3
3
9
6
5
2
2
5
7
1
3
1
2 8
1
4
1
5
4
7
17
16
18
1
3
2
9
6
7
9
1
9
9
8
6
6
1
5
7
1
8
2
2
4
1
4
24
9
3
7
4
3
13
4
9 1
0
8
3
6
3
0
1
4
1
1
6
12
18
11
32
44
39
5
3
6
9
13
18
3
2
2
5
0
5
2
7
2
7
3
1
3
6
5
2
9 19
11
4
3
1
0
8
2
20
16 1
9
1
1
2
7
1
9
2
8
2
0
9
9
1
7
2
3
6
4
4
1
2
1
2
4
10
43 1
20 12
24
3
2 8
1
2
9
5
5
2
0
3
3
3
9
9
3
3
3
3
1
2
1
3
13
48
4
6
3
5
2
3
PLOSHCHAD
REVOLUTSII
OKHOTNY
RYAD
ALEXANDROVSKY
SAD
BIBLIOTEKA
IMENI LENINA
BOROVITSKAYA
ARBATSKAYA
KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA
ULITSA
1905 GODA
BARRIKADNAYA
KROPOTKINSKAYA
POLYANKA
TRETYAKOVSKAYA
NOVOKUZNETSKAYA
TAGANSKAYA MARKSISTSKAYA
MARKSISTSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA DOBRYNINSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PARK KULTURY
SMOLENSKAYA
KIEVSKAYA
TEATRALNAYA
LUBYANKA
KITAY GOROD
CHKALOVSKAYA
KURSKAYA
KOMSOMOLSKAYA
KRASNYE
VOROTA
SUKHAREVSKAYA
TURGENEVSKAYA
SRETENSKY
BULVAR
CHISTYE PRUDY
PROSPEKT MIRA
PUSHKINSKAYA
TVERSKAYA
CHEKHOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
NOVOSLOBODSKAYA
TSVETNOY
BULVAR
TRUBNAYA
KITAY GOROD
LUBYANKA
KUZNETSKY MOST
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
LENINGRADSKY
VOKZAL
YAROSLAVSKY
VOKZAL
KAZANSKY VOKZAL
KURSKIY
VOKZAL
PAVELETSKY
VOKZAL
KIEVSKY
VOKZAL
BELORUSSKY VOKZAL
GORKY
PARK
PIER
UKRAINA
HOTEL
PIER
NOVOARBATSKY
MOST
BORODINSKY
MOST
KRYMSKY
MOST
PATRIARSHY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KAMENNY
MOST
MALY
KAMENNY
MOST
LUZHKOV
MOST
BOLSHOY
ZAMOSKVORETSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
USTYINSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KRASNOKHOLMSKY
MOST
NOVOSPASSKY
MOST
1
2
3
4
5
A B C D E
ARBAT DINING
There are many cafés and restaurants on Arbat and the
surrounding area. Below we listed a few of our partners
that we’ve tried and reviewed.
DETI RAIKA
The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting
to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this
their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki or Children of Para-
dise is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner’s
favourite film. The varied menu offers anything from
pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some tasty
fish dishes. QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEW
TARANTINO
Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American
cuisine at its best with a spectacular view over the glitzy
Novy Arbat. The portions are generous, the interior is
homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal
with friends or family. Menu specialties: grilled meat and
seafood and a wide assortment of traditional Italian piz-
zas and pastas.QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open
12:00 - 00:00, Thu - Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PAW
1
1
2
4
2
3
26 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 27 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Features
Features
ZAMOSKVORECHYE
Zamoskvorechye, a neighbourhood in the centre of Moscow,
spans multiple centuries: here one may be just as likely to
find 18th century wooden structures fighting for real estate
on the same street as a glittering 21st century business cen-
tre or hotel. The contrast is undoubtedly one of this district’s
charms, as is the collection of churches and museums, with-
out the tourist hordes one could find across the river. Indeed,
the name of the neighbourhood means ‘across the river,’ liter-
ally, on the right or southern bank from the Kremlin.
This area was first settled in the 14th century. In its early
days the district was the home to various communities,
enclaves, and professional quarters. Ul. Bolshaya Ordynka
is a testament to this neighbourhood’s Tatar past as “Orda”
refers to the Golden Horde. Royal garden attendants and
mint workers, tanners, soldiers of the streltsy (armed Rus-
sian guard units from the 16th-18th centuries), as well as
court translators all made their homes in the area. In the
time of Peter the Great, much of the court was transferred
to St. Petersburg and Zamoskvorechye experienced signifi-
cant depopulation, with the area being resettled by farmers
and merchants. Many wealthy businessmen moved in be-
ginning in the 18th century (they were particularly concen-
trated on Pyatnitskaya Ul. and Ordynka Ul.) and they made
their imprint by building churches, such as the 1755 Church
of the Saviour on Bolvany.
CHURCHES
CHURCH OF THE RESURRECTION IN KADASHI
Once the tallest building in Zamoskvorechye, this church
is in need of quite a bit of restoration, but then again the
last few centuries have been a bit of a bumpy ride. Since
its construction in 1687 in the Moscow Baroque style, it has
been robbed, vandalized, and used as a stable by Napo-
leonic troops, a KGB archive and a recreational club for a
nearby sausage factory. Its bell, which supposedly weighed
over six tonnes, is rumoured to be kept in the Bolshoy Thea-
tre and used for productions of Boris Godunov. Attempts in
recent years to knock down historical buildings surround-
ing the church and replace them with a luxury apartments
and offices were met with complaints from locals. The
threat of being surrounded by apartment blocks still looms,
but inside, the church’s icons and friezes are as quiet as if
none of this history had ever happened.
ST. CLEMENT’S CHURCH
Contrary to what the name might suggest this is actually a
Russian Orthodox church, one of two in the city named for
a Roman pope and the main church of Zamoskvorechye.
Nowadays the church’s five domes and two stories are
bright and gleaming, its baroque exterior an iconic pinkish
red. But like many other such historical buildings, it found
itself hanging on by the skin of its teeth during the Soviet
years when authorities had it earmarked for demolition and
transformation into a kindergarten. After escaping that fate
it was then used to store books for the Lenin State Library
and only in 2008 did it return to the Orthodox Church. The
church’s glittering exterior is matched by its renowned and
beautifully decorated interior that contains a number of
icons and an especially good example of an iconostasis.
MUSEUMS
OSTROVSKY MUSEUM
Some have called him the
‘Russian Shakespeare,’ and
his output and national im-
portance are indeed compa-
rable, writing an impressive
forty-seven plays, still the
bread and butter of Russian
repertoire. Yet Alexander
Ostrovsky (1823-1886) still remains overlooked abroad. This
modest wooden house is where the playwright was born
and the surrounding area inspired the young Ostrovsky, who
made his literary debut with sketches about Zamoskvorechye
merchant life. Like many writers of his time, he found that
making a literary career was a case of exasperating conflict
and compromise with the censors, who would often take
years to approve a play, only to return it in a state that was
hardly recognisable. If already well versed in Ostrovsky’s works
you will appreciate the thorough documentation of perfor-
mances of his plays in photographs. Even the uninitiated can
enjoy the numerous set design sketches on display. As one of
Russia’s most performed playwrights, Ostrovsky’s plays have
taken on many guises over the years and the plans for back-
drops and scenery are works of art in themselves.
FOREST MUSEUM
An atmospheric museum about one of Russia’s greatest assets
and passions. Forests have been at the heart of the Rus peo-
ple since before anyone had considered building the Kremlin
and to this day they remain vast and unexplored to quite an
extent. Part of the museum is concerned with this last point
and the worry that in actual fact the forests might not be as
permanent as we would like. Other displays include miniature
models of traditional wooden buildings, some slightly baffled-
looking stuffed forest wildlife and plenty on forest science, ac-
companied by a soothing soundtrack of birdsong and trickling
brooks. Effort has obviously gone into the appearance of the
place and it’s quite an attractive museum.
CONSENSUAL THERAPY
Funky Lab ‘invents’ all of its meals so that they make
great combinations with wines. For example, white
asparagus salad and chips with jerk beef sommelier
should be combined with a pink Californian Zinfan-
del or New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Pulp mutton
ham, whole baked in the oven with mashed sweet
potatoes are offered with a light Tempranillo (Muga)
or Gamay Burgundy. Three phase gazpacho is laid out
in layers. The bar serves it own smoothies “Lab is”, in-
spired by the chewing gum “Love is”.
FUNKY LAB
QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPoly-
anka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylab-bar.
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€.
PASW See full review on page 31.
RESTAURANTS AND CLUBS
TOWN HOUSE
QD-6, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul.
Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720
53 01, www.mercure.com. Open 06:00 - 23:00. €€€.
PTASW See full review on page 36.
CLUB GARAGE
QС-4/5, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7)
499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. Open 24hrs.
PAESW See full review on page 42.
M
A
L . G
R
U
Z
I N
S
K
A
Y A
U
L .
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
V
A
L U
L.
STOLYARNY PER.
ALEXANDRA NEVSKOGO UL.
B
O
L. G
R
U
ZIN
SK
A
Y
A
U
L.
B
O
L. K
O
ZIK
H
IN
SK
Y P
E
R
.
B
O
L. SA
D
O
V
A
YA
U
L.
1-YA BRESTSKAYA U
L.
2-YA BRESTSKAYA U
L.
CH
A
YA
N
O
V
A
U
L.
D
O
LG
O
R
U
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L.
FADEEVA UL.
KRASIN
A U
L.
KRA
SIN
A
U
L.
LESN
A
YA
U
L.
M
A
L. D
M
IT
R
O
V
K
A
U
L.
M
IU
SSKA
YA
PL.
SYTIN
SKY PER.
TRIUMFALNAYAPL.
TRYO
KH
PRU
D
N
Y PER.
1-YA TVERSKAYA-YAM
SKAYA U
L.
2-YA TVERSKAYA-YAM
SKAYA U
L.
TV
ERSKA
YA
U
L.
TVERSKAYA U
L.
3-YA TVERSKAYA-YAM
SKAYA U
L.
V
ASILYEV
SKAYA U
L.
ZO
O
LO
G
IC
H
E
SK
A
YA
U
L.
BO
L. BRO
N
N
A
YA
U
L.
BO
L.PATRIARSHY PER.
M
A
L. B
R
O
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L. S
A
D
O
V
A
Y
A
-K
U
D
R
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
SPIRIDO
NYEVSKY PER.
ARBAT UL.
BOL. MOLCHANOVKA UL.
F
IL
IP
P
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
GRANATNY PER.
K
A
LA
SH
N
Y
P
E
R
. KHLEBNY PER.
KOMPOZITORSKAYA UL.
MAL. NIKITSKAYA UL.
BOL. NIKITSKAYA UL.
BOL. NIKITSKAYA UL.
M
A
L. ZN
A
M
E
N
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
M
E
R
ZLY
A
K
O
V
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
N
IK
IT
SK
Y
B
U
L.
N
O
V
IN
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
NOVY ARBAT UL.
PL. NIKITSKIE VOROTA POVARSKAYA UL.
SKATERTNY PER.
SPIRID
O
N
O
V
KA U
L.
T
R
U
B
N
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
V
S
P
O
L
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. A
F
A
N
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. V
L
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L. Z
N
A
M
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
E
N
E
Z
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
P
LO
T
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
SIVTSEV VRAZHEK PER.
S
T
A
R
O
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
E
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. LEVSHINSKY PER.
B
U
TIK
O
V
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
CHISTY PER.
ERO
PKIN
SKY PER.
GAGARINSKY PER.
GLAZOVSKY PER.
G
O
G
O
L
E
V
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
KH
ILKO
V PER.
KO
RO
BEYN
IKO
V PER.
KRO
PO
TKIN
SKY PER.
K
U
R
S
O
V
O
Y
P
E
R
.
MOLOCHNY PER.
2-Y OBYDENSKY PER.
O
STO
ZH
EN
KA U
L.
PRECHISTENKA UL.
POM
ERANTSEV PER.
POZHARSKY PER.
PRECHISTENSKY PER.
S
M
O
L
E
N
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
SOYM
ONOVSKY PROEZD
KRYM
SKAYA N
AB.
N
O
VO
KRYM
SKY PR.
KRYM
SKY PROEZD
P
U
SH
K
IN
SK
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
KRYMSKY VAL.
B
O
L. D
M
ITR
O
V
K
A
U
L.
B
O
L. LU
B
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L.
M
IL
Y
U
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
E
G
L
IN
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
E
T
R
O
V
K
A
U
L.
R
O
Z
H
D
E
S
T
V
E
N
K
A
U
L
. STOLESHNIKOV PER.
B
A
L
C
H
U
G
U
L
.
G
A
ZETN
Y PER
.
ILINKA UL.
IP
A
T
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
KRASN
AYA PL. (RED
SQ
U
ARE)
KREMLEVSKAYA NAB.
KUZNETSKY MOST UL.
M
A
N
E
Z
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
O
H
O
V
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
IK
ITSK
Y PER.
N
IKO
LSKA
YA
U
L.
N
IK
O
LS
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
A
YA
PL.
O
KH
O
TN
Y RYAD
U
L.
PUSHECHNAYA UL.
R
O
M
A
N
O
V
P
E
R
.
R
YB
N
Y P
E
R
.
STA
RA
YA
PL.
TEATRALNY PROEZD
VARVARKAUL.
VASILYEVSKY
SPUSKPL.
SOFIYSKAYA NAB.
V
O
LH
O
N
K
A
U
L.
B
E
R
S
E
N
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
L. S
T
A
R
O
M
O
N
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L. Y
A
K
IM
A
N
K
A
U
L.
BOLOTNAYA NAB.
B
O
LO
TN
A
YA
N
A
B
.
BOLOTNAYA PL.
1-Y G
O
LU
TV
IN
SK
Y P
ER
.
KADASHEVSKAYA NAB.
1
-Y
K
A
D
A
S
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
LA
V
R
U
SH
IN
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
M
A
L. Y
A
K
IM
A
N
K
A
U
L.
PYZHEVSKY PER.
ST
A
R
O
M
O
N
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
YA
KIM
A
N
SKA
YA
N
A
B
.
YA
K
IM
A
N
SK
Y
P
R
O
E
ZD
B
O
L
. O
R
D
Y
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
L. P
O
LY
A
N
K
A
U
L.
M
A
L
. O
R
D
Y
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
.P
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
APAKOVA PR.
1
-Y
D
O
B
R
Y
N
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KAZACHY PER.
2
- Y
K
A
Z
A
C
H
Y
P
E
R
.
K
A
Z
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KHVOSTOV PER.
KOROVY VAL UL.
LEN
IN
SKY PR.
LY
U
S
IN
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
R
O
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
Y
T
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
POGORELSKY PER.
1-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
ZHITNAYA UL.
NOVORYAZANSKAYAUL.
VERKHNYAYA SYROMYATNICHESKAYA UL.
NIKOLOYAMSKAYA UL.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
U
L.
TETERINSKY PER.
A
KA
D
EM
IKA
SA
KH
A
RO
V
A
PR.
BOL. BALKANSKY PER.
BOL. KHARITONYEVSKY PER.
B
O
L. K
O
ZLO
V
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. SPASSKAYA UL.
DOKUCHAEV PER.
FURM
ANNY PER.
GUSYATNIKO
V PER.
K
A
L
A
N
C
H
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KOMSOMOLSKAYAPL.
KRASN
O
PRU
DN
AYA U
L.
M
ASH
KO
VA U
L.
NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL.
SADOVAYA-SPASSKAYA UL.
VERKH
N
YAYA KRASN
O
SELSKAYA U
L.
CH
ISTO
PRU
D
N
Y BU
L.
KAZAKOVA UL.
POKROVKA UL.
PO
KRO
VKA U
L.
ZH
U
KO
V
SKO
G
O
U
L.
CH
A
PLYG
IN
A
U
L.
Z
E
M
L
Y
A
N
O
Y
V
A
L
U
L
.
A
RM
YAN
SKY PER.
BERNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
BOL. KAZENNY PER.
DURASOVSKY PER.
KAZARMENY PER. K
O
LP
A
C
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
SM
O
D
A
M
IA
N
SK
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
LY
A
LIN
P
E
R
.
PODKOLOKOLNY PER.
PO
D
SO
SEN
SKY PER.
P
O
K
R
O
V
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
PEV
CH
ESKY PER.
SEREBRYANICHESKAYA NAB.
SO
LYA
N
KA
U
L.
S
T
A
R
O
S
A
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
ST
Y
IN
SK
Y
P
R
.
VORONTSOVO POLE Y
A
U
Z
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
PO
TA
P
O
V
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
TE
LN
IC
H
E
SK
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
VERKHNYAYA RADISHCHEVSKAYA UL.
B
O
L. TA
T
A
R
SK
A
Y
A
U
L.
BOL. TATARSKY PER.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
2
-Y
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
OZERKOVSKY PER.
RUNOVSKY PER.
SA
D
O
V
N
ICH
ESKY PRO
EZD
STARY TOLMACHEVSKY PER.
B
A
K
H
R
U
S
H
IN
A
U
L
.
N
IZH
N
AYA KRASN
O
KH
O
LM
SKAYA U
L.
N
O
V
O
K
U
Z
N
E
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
T
R
O
C
H
E
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
U
B
I N
I N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
3
-Y
M
O
N
E
T
C
H
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
5-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
PAVELETSKAYAPL.
STREMYANNY PER.
VALOVAYA UL.
N
IZH
N
AYA KRASN
O
SELSKAYA U
L.
STARAYA BASM
ANNAYA UL.
ALEXANDRA SOLZHENITSINA UL.
M
A
RKSISTSKA
YA
U
L.
STAN
ISLAV
SKO
G
O
U
L.
V
O
R
O
N
T
SO
V
SK
A
Y
A
U
L.
3-Y KRUTITSKY PER.
K
R
U
TITSK
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
N
O
V
O
S
P
A
S
S
K
Y
P
R
.
BOBROV PER.
GROKHOLSKY PER.
M
YASN
ITSKAYA U
L.
LU
BYA
N
SKY PRO
EZD
MAROSEYKA UL.
MOSKVORETSKAYA NAB.
RAUSHSKAYA NAB.
KRIVO
KO
LEN
N
Y PER.
SADOVNICHESKAYA UL.
KLIMENTOVSKY PER.
OVCHINNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
E
R
P
U
K
H
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. KISELNY PER.
BOL. SUKHAREVKAYA PL.
BOL. SUKHAREVSKY PER.
BOL. GOLOVIN PER.
KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER.
PUSHKAREV PER.
LUKOV PER. ASHCHEULOV PER.
SELIVERSTOV PER.
PROSVIRIN PER.
DAEV PER.
SRETENSKY TUPIK
DELEG
ATSKAYA U
L.
DUROVA UL.
G
IL
Y
A
R
O
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
K
O
P
T
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
. (1
Y
)
K
O
S
T
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
KOZITSKY PER.
LAVRSKY PER.
MAL. KARETNY PER.
MAL. SUKHAREVSKAYA PL.
O
L
Y
M
P
IY
S
K
Y
P
R
.
PETROVSKY BUL.
PETROVSKY PER.
POSLEDNY PER.
P
R
O
S
P
E
K
T
M
IR
A
SADOVAYA-KARETNAYA UL.
S
A
M
O
T
Y
O
C
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
H
C
H
E
P
K
IN
A
U
L
.
S
R
E
T
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
SRETENSKY BUL.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
S
V
E
T
N
O
Y
B
U
L
.
VARSONOFYEVSKY PER.
BOL. PALASHEVSKY PER.
M
AL. KOZIKHINSKY PER.
BO
GO
YAVLEN
SKY PER.
BRODNIKOV PER.
MANEZHNAYA
PL.
G
O
L
I K
O
V
S
K
Y

PER.
V
A
S
N
E
T
S
O
V
A
PER.
ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL.
KHOKHLOVSKY
P
E
R
.
1
-YA
B
O
R
O
D
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KRASNAYA PRESNYA UL.
KUTUZOVSKY PR.
T
A
R
A
S
A
S
H
E
V
C
H
E
N
K
O
N
A
B
.
BOL. DOROGOMILOVSKAYA UL.
BURDENKO UL.
KIEVSKAYA UL.
P
L
Y
U
S
H
C
H
IK
H
A
U
L
.
SMOLENSKAYA UL.
KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA NAB.
2-YA BORODINS KAYA UL.
TV
E
R
SK
O
Y
B
U
L.
LENINGRADSKY PR.
K
R
A
SN
O
P
R
O
LE
T
A
R
SK
A
Y
A
U
L.
PUSHKINSKAYA PL.
SADOVAYA-TRIUMFALNAYA UL.
STRASTNOY BUL.
B
O
L
. K
IS
L
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
LEO
N
TIEV
SKY PER.
VOZDVIZHENKA UL.
V
O
Z
N
E
S
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
ZNAM
ENKA UL.
P
R
E
C
H
ISTE
N
SK
A
YA
N
A
B
.
1905 G
O
D
A
U
L.
BOL. TISHINSKY PER.
ERM
O
LA
E
V
SK Y PER.
G
O
ROKHOVSKY PER.
2-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
SREDNY TISHINSKY PER.
U
L. YU
LIU
SA FU
CH
IKA
U
L. G
A
SH
EKA
ORUZHEINY PER.
M
A
L. R
ZH
E
V
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
B
R
YU
SO
V
PER
.
T
V
E
R
SKO
Y
B
U
L.
M
A
L. G
N
EZD
IKO
V
SKY PER.
KAMERGERSKY PER.
GEORGIEVSKY PER.
VETO
SH
N
Y PER.
B
O
L. C
H
ER
K
A
SSK
Y P
ER
.
USPENSKY PER.
1-Y KOLOBOVSKY PER
RAKHMANOVSKY PER.
BOL. SERGIEVSKY PER.
PER. PECHATNIKOV
SREDNY KARETNY PER.
TROITSKAYA UL.
M
E
S
H
C
H
A
N
S
K
A
YA
U
L.
MAL. GOLOVIN PER.
RYBNIKOV PER.
U
LA
N
SKY PER.
M
YASNITSKAY UL.
M
A
L. K
H
A
R
ITO
N
YEV
SK
Y P
ER
.
SA
D
O
VO
E KO
LTSO
PER. OGORODNAYA SLOBODA
U
L. M
A
L. LU
B
YA
N
K
A
SVERCH
KO
V PER.
B
O
L. ZLA
TO
U
STIN
SK
Y P
ER
.
K
ITA
Y
G
O
R
O
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
O
R
LIKO
V
PER
.
LIK
H
O
V
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.
U
L. K
A
R
ETN
Y R
YA
D
1-Y SAMOTECHNY PER.
4-YA TVERSKAYA-YAM
SKAYA U
L.
UL. KLIMASHKINA
RASTORGUEV PER.
V
O
LK
O
V
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
O
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
UL. ZAM
ORENOVA
BOL. PREDTECHENSKY PER.
KARMANITSKY PER.
RUZHEINY PER.
SECHENOVSKY PER.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
U
L. BO
L. PO
LYAN
KA
UL. ZATSEPA
VISHNYAKOVSKY PER.
SHLYUZOVAYA NAB.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
U
L.
YA
U
ZSK
A
YA
U
L.
KOMISSARIATSKY PER.
NOVOSPASSKY PER.
U
L. G
VO
ZDEVA
N
A
R
O
D
N
A
YA
U
L.
5-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
TAGANSKAYA UL.
SA
D
O
V
O
E KO
LTSO
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
LT
S
O
U
L. B
O
LSH
IE
K
A
M
E
N
SH
C
H
IK
I
KOZHEVNICHESKAYA UL.
1-Y ZACH
ATYEVSKY PER.
FR
U
N
ZEN
SK
AYA
N
A
B
.
PRECHISTEN
SKAYA N
AB.
ROCHDELSKAYA UL.
STARO
PIM
ENOVSKY PER.
DEGTYARNY PER.
N
ASTASYINSKY PER.
1-Y VOLKONSKY PER.
B
O
L. SPA
SSK
A
YA
U
L.
B
A
SM
A
N
NY PER.
A
R
K
H
A
N
G
E
LSK
Y P
ER
.
B
O
L. SPA
SO
G
LIN
IS
H
C
H
E
V
SK
Y PER
.
SKORNYAZHNY PER.
PROTOCHNY PER.
BOL. TOLMACHEVSKY PER.
M
A
L. V
L A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BO
L. R
ZH
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y NEOPALIM
OVSKY PER.
2-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
28
2
3
4
0
20
1
4
8
16
12
6
6
12
26
2
16
20
28
31
8
2
7
1
1
0
2
0
1
4 4
4
23 21
25
48
38
28
39
30
28
2
8
2
7
1
9
1
3
1
3
1
3
9
2
2
10
4
22
22
15
9
8
4
10
9
22 4
10
1 1
5
12 11
3
4
12
15
12
8
1
5
13
1
1
4
9
11
1
5
3
13
10
4
7
21
29
11
4
4
0
4
9
3
7
27
25
17
4
8
5
3
11
6
35 38
28
18
12 3
4
8
7
2
6-8
25
10-12
22
11
1
5
3
3
2
9
4
1
2
4
16
25
1
0
17 11
2
2
3 2
2
32
36
22
4
7
7 7
19
19
9
19
22
22
36
8
1
2
3
3
20
3
9
2
3
2
4
6
1
9
2
2
52
43
9
4
4
7
7
14
8
1
1
5
5
10
4
1
6
10
32
5
4
9
6
3
2
2
7
5
4
36
6
5
18 10
10 14
10
8
1
4
1
3
2
9
6
1
2
2
2
1
1 8
9
2
0
3
5
4
4
1
4
2
1
2
9
2
0
3
0 3
9
4
2
1
7
1
9
1
4 1
7
3
1
3
0
3
7
7
5
7
1
7
1
3
8
3
4
37
4
7
2
4
3
7
6
2
5 2
0 2
2
2
4
2
83
54
6
3
0
2
7
3
5
1
5
4
2
4
5
3
3
1
1
1
2
8
9
8
6
5 4
15
12
23
25
13
11
20
16
18
11
10
1
5
10
19
35
43
30
10 5
5
2
5
2
8
3
6
5
4
6
7
7
1
4
8
4
9
6
5
3
4
4
1
53
63
58
56
3
3
1
3
6
2
2
2
6
4
2
4 16
14
4
3 5
7
3
2
6
16
4
16
19
10
4 6
4
7
2
5
4
4
1
2
4
6
6
3
2
3
9
4
3
2
9
2
4
2
5
5
5
6
6
4
2
8
2
3
9
13
16
9
1
1
22
21
19
13
8
4
5
1
8
1
2
5
9
15
10
18
30
3
3
36
10
5
6
16
13
27
26
18
13
6
3
1
8
1
4
15
3
13
14 24
37
16
24
12
8
44
26
42
12
4
27
1
8
3
5
5 15
10
10
2
8
3
8
9
1
7
19
7
1
3
3
3
3
1
1
3
3
2
2
9
2
1
10
5
2
8
1
4
2
6
2
5
2
8
2
4
24
26
1
6
12
2
3
2
6
6
5
5
5
5
7
5
3
3
3
2
1
23
3
3
9
9
5
5
5
5
9
5
4
5
15
15
14
27
5
9
15
5
5
5
7
35
35
32
40
41
47
13
5
6
4
2
13
28
12
11
11
1
1
11
13
8
1
8
11
13
6
6
12
12
12
14
1
0
1
0
13
7
2
4
2
4
13
2
10
2
8
8
6
6
6
6
10
4
4
4
4
8
6
6
2
3
6
4
4
6
6
12 7
4
4
4
8
4
4
12
24
15
11
11
14
8
3
37
32
48
10
10
1
4
1
0
4
18
1
1 3
3
17
7
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
8
3
3
2
4
22
2
8
4
6
5
0
2
16
3
33
11
2
14
15
3
12
17
2
5
2
3
2
6
3
5
3
3
3
3
9
6
5
2
2
5
7
1
3 1
2 8
1
4
1
5 4
7
17
16
18
1
3
2
9
6
7
9
1
9
9
8
6
6
1
5
7
1
8
22
4
14
24
9
3
7
4
3
13
4
9 10
8
3
6
3
0
14
1
1
6
12
18
11
32
44
39
5
3
6
9
13
18
3
2
2
5
0
5
2
7
2
7
3
1
3
6
5
2
9 19
11
4
3
1
0
8
2
20
16 1
9
1
1
27
19
2
8
2
0
9
9
1
7
2
3
6
4
4
12
12
4
10
43 1
20 12 24
3
2 8
12
9
5
5
20
3
3
3
9
9
3
3
3
3
12
13
13
48
46
35
23
PLOSHCHAD
REVOLUTSII
OKHOTNY
RYAD
ALEXANDROVSKY
SAD
BIBLIOTEKA
IMENI LENINA
BOROVITSKAYA
ARBATSKAYA
KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA
ULITSA
1905 GODA
BARRIKADNAYA
KROPOTKINSKAYA
POLYANKA
TRETYAKOVSKAYA
NOVOKUZNETSKAYA
TAGANSKAYA MARKSISTSKAYA
MARKSISTSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA DOBRYNINSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PARK KULTURY
SMOLENSKAYA
KIEVSKAYA
TEATRALNAYA
LUBYANKA
KITAY GOROD
CHKALOVSKAYA
KURSKAYA
KOMSOMOLSKAYA
KRASNYE
VOROTA
SUKHAREVSKAYA
TURGENEVSKAYA
SRETENSKY
BULVAR
CHISTYE PRUDY
PROSPEKT MIRA
PUSHKINSKAYA
TVERSKAYA
CHEKHOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
NOVOSLOBODSKAYA
TSVETNOY
BULVAR
TRUBNAYA
KITAY GOROD
LUBYANKA
KUZNETSKY MOST
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
LENINGRADSKY
VOKZAL
YAROSLAVSKY
VOKZAL
KAZANSKY VOKZAL
KURSKIY
VOKZAL
PAVELETSKY
VOKZAL
KIEVSKY
VOKZAL
BELORUSSKY VOKZAL
GORKY
PARK
PIER
UKRAINA
HOTEL
PIER
NOVOARBATSKY
MOST
BORODINSKY
MOST
KRYMSKY
MOST
PATRIARSHY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KAMENNY
MOST
MALY
KAMENNY
MOST
LUZHKOV
MOST
BOLSHOY
ZAMOSKVORETSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
USTYINSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KRASNOKHOLMSKY
MOST
NOVOSPASSKY
MOST
1
2
3
4
5
A B C D E
The area was wracked by floods in the late 1700s and the be-
ginning of the 1800s, and as a result, land here was among the
most affordable in Moscow. After the construction of a dam in
the 1830s the threat was reduced and industry started to settle
in. After the reforms of 1861 that led to the freeing of the serfs,
the area became a working class stronghold. The largest col-
lection of Russian art in the world and Moscow’s most popular
museum is located in Zamoskvorechye. Founded by merchant
Pavel Tretyakov in the 1850s, today approximately one million
visitors walk through the doors of the Tretyakov Gallery annu-
ally. Containing more than 130,000 works the gallery is located
on Lavrushinsky Pereulok adjacent to the Church of St. Nicho-
las in Tolmachi. A separate exhibit on Russian art of the 20th
century is located in a different building on ul. Krymsky Val.
Here you can find 18th century wood-
en structures fighting for real estate
on the same street as a glittering 21st
century business centre or hotel.
One particular building of interest in Zamoskvorechye is The
House on the Embankment, an enormous apartment build-
ing in downtown that faces Bersenevskaya Embankment
on one side and ul. Serafimovicha on the other. It was built
from 1927 - 1931 as a residence for the Soviet elite. Writer Yuri
Trifonov, who lived in the building from 1931 - 1939, wrote
an eponymous novel that details the lives of the residents in
the complex in the 1930s, many of whom were killed during
Stalin’s purges. During Soviet times it was notable for hav-
ing separate telephone connections, a laundry, and a club
for residents. The building currently has 505 apartments and
offices, a theatre, a cinema, restaurants, and stores.
Shortly after the Revolution the Bolsheviks closed and
looted many of Zamoskvorechye’s churches, although 17
managed to survive the wrecking ball. The socialist love of
concrete finally came to the neighbourhood and highrise
blocks have started appearing in the last two decades.
1
3
1
2
3
2
28 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 29 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack
vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend
to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to
book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph
into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so
make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet.
Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making
their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent
is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
€ - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl
€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
RUSSIAN AND UKRAINIAN
CAFE CHEKHOV
Sitting next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here has
been inspired by the great playwright’s era. The dining
room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nou-
veau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses
wear Edwardian costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new
Russian cuisine’, although in our book there’s nothing Rus-
sian about pasta and ruccola. Their version of borsch with
apples in it is however a welcome innovation. Service can
be frustratingly slow at times so don’t be shy with the staff.
QKamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629
06 16, www.cafe-chekhov.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
PAS
CAFE PUSHKIN
This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and
popular with local business men and passing tourists.
Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now
frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only up-
per class restaurant where you could eat European stan-
dard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the
roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine
recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophis-
ticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library
Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2,
Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33,
www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The frst foor open 24hrs, the
second foor 12:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PAESW
CLUB PETROVICH
Step back into the Soviet 50s and 60s. This club is high
on the nostalgia factor with everything from traditional
home made drinks like the tart berry mors, to thick Rus-
sian bliny, big soups, meatballs and shashlik. Real Stalin-era
cutlery, bowls and lamps litter the place which is crammed
with authentic Soviet memorabilia. Petrovich is officially a
‘members only’ club, so the best way to guarantee you get
in is to make a table reservation in advance.QD-2, Myas-
nitskaya ul. 24, bldg. 3, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 00 82, www.petrovich.ru. Open 12:00 - 05:00, Sat,
Sun 14:00 - 05:00. After 17:00 entrance only with a club
card or prior reservation. €€. PAESW
DACHA NA POKROVKE
The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for
simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings.
Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval man-
sion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and
pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of
the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has a
special kind of charm. In the summer months a barbeque
grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent
shashlik. Live music most evenings.QЕ-3, Pokrovsky bul.
16-18 bldg. 4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.
ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW
ASIAN AND INDIAN
AROMASS
This Indian restaurant, which features a number of dishes
from the Kerala region on its menu, gets reviews so good
online that something almost seems amiss. Indeed, I knew
one long-term expat who travelled at least once a month
fully across the city to eat here. Located in the south of
the city along the orange line, the food, the service and
the ambience do not disappoint. There is an excellent se-
lection of vegetarian options, Kingfisher beer, and plenty
of seafood options which is no surprise considering that
Kerala straddles the Arabian and Laccadive Seas. QUl.
Krzhizhanovskogo 20/30, bldg. 1, MProfsouznaya,
tel. (+7) 917 562 93 85, www.aromass.ru. Open 12:00 -
24:00. €€. PAESW
KITAISKY KVARTAL
The menu at ‘Chinese Quarter’ features plenty of dim sum,
noodle dishes and some less well-known Chinese op-
tions, and vegetarians will find there’s a good selection.
Business lunches cater to the very hungry - though they
cost 350Rbl, that’ll get you unlimited amounts of the tasty
oriental salad bar and from selected hot dishes as well. We
recommend the refreshing homemade jasmine iced tea,
which you may want several glasses of if you pick an espe-
cially well salted dish. The bamboo décor and unintrusive
music mean this is a relaxing sort of place, even at their res-
taurant on the busy Taganskaya Pl. Also at Pr. Mira 1 (metro
Sukharevskaya).QE-4, Vorontsovskaya ul. 2/10, MTa-
ganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 32 02, www.chinachain.ru.
Open 24hrs. €. PASW
MAHARAJA
Genuine Indian hospitality. From the moment you reach
the door, you’ll receive service worthy of a Maharaja in
this well-established Indian restaurant, which is popular
with the local Indian community. The menu is huge and
has all the favourites such as Madras, Rogan josh and tikka
masala and believe us their curries are the real deal. If you
want spice, you’ll get spice - the vindaloo will have even
the hardest nuts crying into their naan breads. Worth ev-
ery penny.QD-2, Starosadsky 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7)
495 621 98 44, www.maharaja.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
€€. PASW
MENZA
Japanese noodles for those on a budget. Order your
meal by ticking the boxes on the order forms and then
handing them into the waiter. Disco tunes play, and
your food arrives in minutes. It doesn’t feel like a fast
food joint (you don’t get hot towels at McDonald’s for
instance) but our meal came in around ten minutes.
Warehouse loft location, friendly service and Japanese
beer which is light on the fizz and the roubles makes
this place even more democratic. Also at ul. Rusakovs-
kaya 22 (metro Sokolniki).QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 32,
bldg.1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 32 40,
www.menza-lapsha.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat
11:00 - 06:00. €. PASW
TAN
It can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, not
just in Moscow, but in many cities. However Tan, just off Tri-
umphalnaya Square, defies this. The menu boasts a huge
range of choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japa-
nese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations
and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable,
the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisti-
cated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the house
pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of
friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate
a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as
possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 51 88, www.restorantan.ru. Open
24hrs. €€. PAESW
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
V Home delivery W Wifi
RUSSIAN SUMMER MENU
The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty
warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get
through the bitterly cold winter months, but come
summer some special warm weather dishes also make
their way on to the Russian menu.
Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include
kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern
European drink that only ever usually appears in sum-
mer. Made from fermented rye bread, this soft drink
has a very distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not
and yes, you can really taste the bread in there too.
As summer is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink
served very cold is also very popular in summer as are
other sweeter berry juice based drinks known as kom-
pot, which can be made from practically any berry that
you may find.
Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and
many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may
often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tast-
ing brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made
from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July.
Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer
as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a sum-
mer’s day fishing on the country’s lakes or river. The
ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okros-
hka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled veg-
etables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers
and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different
meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then
the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or
sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is
as it sounds, quite an acquired taste…
The main course. Salads are universally popular year
round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest
staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real
powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish
kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then
grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is
the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actu-
ally originates from the south it is often accompanied
with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy
ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen
(green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a
piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As
it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants
usually serve up the best shashliks.
30 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 31 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
WATCHING THE WORLD CUP
Football fans might regret being in Russia and not Brazil
this June, but if you want to watch the latest on field ac-
tion, here are some great sports bars where to meet up
with your mates and watch your favourite teams play-
ing the best in the world.
CHELSEA GASTRO PUB
QB-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 12/27, MTverskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 629 66 88, www.chelsea-pub.ru. Open
24hrs. €€. PASW
GLAVPIVTREST
QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 46/2, MKrasnie Vorota, tel.
(+7) 495 625 97 97, www.pivtrest.com. Open 09:00 -
24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEW
PUNCH AND JUDY PUB
QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 6/1, MNovokuznetskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 953 39 92, www.pjpub.ru. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW
SALLY O’BRIEN’S
QC-4, Ul. bol. Polyanka 1/3, MPolyanka, tel. (+7)
495 959 01 75, www.sallyobriens.ru. Open 12:00 -
01:00. €€. PENSW
SCOTLAND YARD PUB
QC-1, Ul. Petrovka 34, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 609 02 10, www.scotlandyardpub.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW
SILVERS
QC-2, Nikitsky per. 5/6, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 690 42 22, www.silverspub.com. Open 08:00 -
24:00, Fri 08:00 until last guest, Sat 10:00 until last
guest, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PNW
STIRLITZ
QB-1, 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 2, MMayakovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 617 61 03, www.stirlitz.su. Open
24hrs. €. PASW
ST.PETERS AND ST.ANTON PUB
QC-2, Nikitinsky per. 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 626 68 01, www.realpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
€€€. PAW
THE HUDSON BAR
QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)
495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 until
last guest, Fri and Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW
U-ME
U-Me means “dream” in Japanese. Sitting in pan-Asian
furniture with kabuki characters on the walls, you soon
realise that this is no ordinary restaurant. Japanese rice as
it should be, typical side dishes, fresh ingredients, authen-
tic flavours. If it’s good enough to keep the Japanese in
Moscow satisfied, it’s good enough for me. Their extensive
business lunch menu, including takeaway bento boxes, is
matched by the wide selection of sashimi and sushi. Res-
ervations essential in the evenings and weekends; they
even deliver.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 38A, MKurskaya, tel.
(+7) 795 621 78 40, www.u-me.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAVSW
CAUCASIAN
GEORGE
The restaurant’s name - George - sounds like the country
it’s devoted to - Georgia. Nino Chanturiya, co-owner of
legendary Seiji and Ginkgo restaurants, has set a goal to
create a premium Georgian restaurant in Moscow combin-
ing professionalism in work and love for her motherland.
Chef Lali Gadeliya was invited to Moscow for this project
to fulfil the main task of the restaurant - keeping the tra-
ditions of national cuisine, by using a recipe-book dating
back to 1962. The interior impresses as well: hand-embroi-
dered table-clothes, vintage candelabrums, unique lamp-
shades, original paintings, fireplace, grand piano, ancient
furniture, and carpets on the floor - you cannot but enjoy
this.QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 6 (Entrance from
nab. Tarasa Shevchenko), MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495
785 08 05, www.georgerest.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PALESW
KHACHA-PURI
An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist inte-
rior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music
in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The
khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite
OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian
cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always
get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes ac-
companied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed
down nicely with homemade fruit drinks.The tables are
all cramped together giving the place a noisy diner feel-
ing, complimented by a particularly eclectic clientele. Also
at Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro Kievskaya).QB-2, Bol. Gnezd-
nikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56,
www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 -
23:00. €. PAESW
KISH MISH
This kitsch and friendly restaurant takes you straight to
Tashkent - apparently everything from the cushions to the
waiters’ traditional garb is all imported from Uzbekistan’s
capital. It gets particularly packed at lunchtime when
the business lunch set menu (advertised on the tables in
Russian) is running. The plov (meat and pilau rice) or the
manti (large meat dumplings) are excellent choices, as is
the warm and satisfying kifta-shurpa (a light soup with
vegetables and meatballs) although you may well also be
tempted by the smell of the sizzling shashliks or the exten-
sive salad bar.QA-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 28, MSmolenskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 690 07 03, www.novikovgroup.ru. Open
11:00 - 24:00. €. PAS
MADAME GALIFE
If you are lucky enough to get your way, you will enjoy
an enchanting, close-up view of one of Moscow’s smaller
botanical gardens and the quirky homemade surround-
ings of Madame’s parlour room. Many of the items on the
Georgian menu are prepared expertly on the rustic char-
coal grill that sizzles to the left of the dining room entrance
and the giant khachapuri is irresistible. But if you show up
unannounced (and yes, you must ring a buzzer to be let
in) and without a reservation, then you will be shown to
the basement room, tucked in a corner somewhere and
deprived of all that makes this magical restaurant so fun
to dine in.QD-1, Pr. Mira 26/1 (entrance on Grokholsky
per.), MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 775 26 01, www.
madamgalife.ru. Open 12:00 - 05:00. €€. AESW
EUROPEAN
CAFE TCHAIKOVSKY
A sprawling café and restaurant understandably popular
with theatre and classical music enthusiasts as it is located
right in the centre of Moscow theatre land and literally un-
derneath the Moscow Conservatory. Dark lighting, leather
and mahogany furniture and elegantly dressed waiters create
a pleasantly grand atmosphere although a bit more classical
music on the stereo would perhaps better suit the surround-
ings. Regardless the menu is packed with well-made Russian
classics and a wide selection of pizza, pasta, grilled fish and
the like meaning there’s something for everyone. Tchaikovsky
also has an extensive selection of great cakes, pastries and
other desserts to sample if you decide just to pop in for a cof-
fee and a snack.QB-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 4/31, MMayakovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 14, novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/
chaykovskiy/. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW
FUNKY LAB
Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange
combo, but not at Funky Lab. What’s really in a name? This
restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of atten-
tion being placed on how it is presented to you. Why read
from a menu when there is a tablet available with pictures
of all dishes? Don’t be surprised when you pick out a dish
here just because of the way it looks. But the best thing
about Funky is that while presenting it all in a beautiful
and funny way, the food is just plain good, with a relaxed
atmosphere, friendly service and with very reasonable
prices in a down-to-earth location. Is all this even possible
in Moscow? It sure is, this restaurant deserves its visitors.
QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylab-bar.com. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW
32 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 33 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
HEDIARD
Welcome to a small corner of Paris in Moscow. The shop
downstairs is packed with all kinds of foodie delights from
beautifully decorated cakes and handmade chocolates,
to Camemberts and bries, to all kinds of pates and chut-
nies. The cafe upstairs is delightfully sophisticated, if not
a little small. However what it lacks in seating space, it
certainly makes up for with a menu over 44 pages long!
For those with a sweet tooth, head straight to the patis-
serie section where you will be faced with the virtually
impossible task of choosing.QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 23,
bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 32 88, www.
hediard.ru. Open 09:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW
JEROME&PATRICе
Those of you who have had the pleasure to enjoy din-
ning at one of the Ginza Project’s numerous restaurants
will be pleased to discover yet another restaurant to treat
your taste buds. Jerome&Patrice takes a new look at au-
thentic French provincial cooking. The head chefs Jerome
Coustillas and Patrice Terejoles have taken care to preserve
French traditions while taking the best out of modern
trends in international cuisine. The restaurant has also
tried to keep up with modern demands for healthy eat-
ing and natural food. The establishment has magnificent
views onto the square and comfortable seating and lovely
lighting. QD-3, Slavyanskaya pl. 2, MKitay Gorod, tel.
(+7) 495 784 69 69, www.ginzaproject.ru. Open 12:00 -
24:00. €€€. PASW
LUCIEN
Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the
Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The
story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted
by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous
Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine
white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu you are met
by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t
miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish…
the mouthwatering list goes on. If you are in a large group try
out the Samovar option - tea from a real Russian samovar with
all the traditional accompaniments.QC-1, Ul. Gilyarovskogo
65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.
lucienrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW
SCANDINAVIA
An icon amongst Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has
been providing smiley service for almost twenty years now.
This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such
as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything
is from the north, as their bar menu also has a hefty and
popular burger. The central location and calm international
atmosphere means there are more than a few suits and ties
dropping in after work and especially on Fridays service can
get slow.QB-1, Maly Palashevsky per. 7 (enter from Tver-
skaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.
scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAS
YORNIK
Meaning something like joker in Russian, the general de-
sign and atmosphere goes against the name and is won-
derfully calming, rather than wise-cracking and outland-
ish. Art deco design features on the tables and walls give
Yornik an eye-catching and elegant 1930s New York hotel
bar look and service remains discreet but professional
making it a great place for private business discussions
or intimate meetings. The menu takes a new approach to
Russian staple ingredients resulting in new creations such
as risotto made from buckwheat as well as some classics
such as excellent handmade pelmeni, borsch and other in-
ternational winners.QB-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 69, MBe-
lorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 92 50, www.ernik.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW
INTERNATIONAL
ART CLUMBA
Right at the hub of this art and design complex, Art Clumba
is a restaurant-café-concert space which sets everything
at the right level. The soundtrack is their own carefully
selected mix, the menu covers a wide range of cuisines
and manages to serve them up with a simple twist that
lets the well-sourced ingredients shine. The whole layout
itself is a gently subdued blonde-beige combo highlight-
ing the building’s unique architectural features. QArtPlay
na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10,
MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.artclumba.
ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW
DANDY CAFE
There’s a place in central Moscow where you can go for
breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails, dancing and then
brunch, so basically you never have to even leave! Dandy
cafe on Novy Arbat is a favorite among hipsters, expats,
businessmen and trendy cosmopolites alike. The food and
drinks are superb yet prices don’t pinch, the low-key am-
bience allows guests to unwind, relax and be themselves
and fun events take place almost on a nightly basis.QA-3,
Ul. Novy Arbat 28, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05
38, www.dandytimes.ru. Open 24hrs. €€.
KALINA CAFE
The sister establishment of the famous Kalina Bar, this styl-
ish restaurant-bar really puts a focus on the food with an
adventurous menu led by the creations of the young Ital-
ian head chef Michele Lanzani. New inventions are always
finding their way into the menu but mouth-watering dish-
es such as the tatar of langoustines with wasabi foam or
the tagliatta of beef with grappa are permanent features
of the menu by popular demand. The wine list is exten-
sive and cocktails here are expert. QС-4, Prechistens-
kaya nab. 17, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 16 39,
www.kalinacafe.ru. Open 11:30 - 06:00. €€€. PEW
KOBE
Ever had the pleasure of sinking your teeth into an au-
thentic, tender and well-marbled Kobe beef steak and
have been craving it ever since? Or would you simply
like to finally find out what the hype is all about? There’s
only one place in Moscow that can serve you the real deal
and that place is the very aptly named Kobe Steak House
on Kutuzovsky Prospekt. Here, chef Seiji-San whips up a
wide range of exclusive steaks such as Kobe Rebuy, Ishi-
yaki, Striploin Ishiyaki, Tenderloin Ishiyaki, and fish steaks.
Staying true to tradition, the elite Wagyu beef is served on
heated stones with three sauces. The minimalistic Japa-
nese interior creates an atmosphere of purity and quiet-
ness, making Kobe an ideal place for a romantic outing or
an impressive business meeting.QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr.
2/1 bldg. 6 (Entrance from nab. Tarasa Shevchenko),
MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 785 08 05, www.kobesteak.
ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€.
PALESW
INTERVIEW WITH THE CHEF
Please tell us some-
thing about yourself.
My name is Aleksei Lyalin
and I am the head chef
of the Marriot Moscow
Tverskaya Hotel. I began
my professional career
as a chef in 1998 in the
restaurant of the Holiday
Inn Vinogradovo and in
the course of the last 16
years I have worked with some of Europe’s leading chefs
including Paul Bocuse and Pierre Troisgros, acquiring ex-
perience in different restaurants around Moscow as well
as further afield. At the Marriot Moscow Tverskaya Hotel
I will be responsible Grazzi restaurant and for the Lobby
Bar and am developing new menus for our guests.
What new dishes are you going to offer guests of
the Marriott Moscow Tverskaya Hotel? I have gone
over the menu for the Marriot Mosow Tverskaya and
will be adding some delicious new dishes for our pa-
trons. For those who want a truly Russian delicacy, we
will have ukha – which is a Russian soup. We will also
have a Russian style burger. In terms of salads, patrons
can enjoy our fennel avocado salad with grapefruit
segment, and to finish it all off they can try our straw-
berry with sabayon sauce
What specific Russian dish would you recommend
to foreign visitors of Russia? When it comes to really
nice Russian cuisine I have always loved Beef Stroga-
noff which first appeared in Russia in the mid 19th
century and has become one of Russia’s most popular
‘exports’. Grichka or buckwheat with mushrooms and
onions is another standard Russian favourite which
seems to be practically unknown elsewhere and is
particularly good as it is gluten free and has a deli-
cious earthy taste. Ukha fish soup is also a favourite
Russian soup and is less well known than borsch –
which is Ukrainian anyway! And of course strawber-
ries with sabayon sauce make for the perfect dessert.
36 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 37 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
KON-TIKI
The younger sister of the Tiki Bar (the first Hawaiian bar in
Moscow), although Kon-Tiki is more of a restaurant than a bar,
it is still definitely one of the more exotic places in Moscow.
So if you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit of fun, look no
further than Kon-Tiki and it’s island grill. Guests are surround-
ed by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an impressive
aquarium that runs the length of the wall - this is truly Hawaii
in Moscow. The authentic Hawaiian style cocktails are moder-
ately priced, so forget your worries and enjoy the rhythm of a
salsa or rumba, whilst sipping on the Aztec Surfboard or Gin-
ger Mango Punch, delicious!QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7,
bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 20, www.
kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAESW
SKY LOUNGE
Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience
the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze
over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters
skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge re-
ally has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The
menu meets up to the general experience by being filled
with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines ex-
pertly. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions
are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else.
QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd foor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel.
(+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00,
Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PSW
TOWN HOUSE
A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and
a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every
continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and
locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for every-
thing grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply can-
not be missed! An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be
best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights,
extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the
upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions
and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band
performances.QD-6, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya
Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.mercure.com. Open 06:00 - 23:00. €€€.
PTASW
ITALIAN
MAMMA GIOVANNA
This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t make
the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks in vistas
it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate atmosphere.
The crispy pizzas here are particularly delectable and fortu-
nately the place is laidback enough that you can go to town
on them with your hands. The mains such as the excellent
grilled tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly
be filling, although desserts are markedly dull in compari-
son.QC-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26,
MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 87 20, www.mamma-
giovanna.ru. Open 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PASW
SUMMER TERRACES
Summer is finally here and what a wonderful time it is
to be living it up on the city’s many summer terraces
and beer gardens. In Moscow you’ve a whole range
of places that you can perch up at and enjoy the sun.
From May until September Moscow is filled with al fres-
co drinking and dining options - from the cafes lined up
along Moscow’s main walking streets Stary Arbat and
Kamergersky pereulok, to the open roofs and balconies
of old factories and swanky high rise shopping centres
and on into the secluded gardens and courtyards of
the city’s back streets. Moscow In Your Pocket picks out
some of the best places to eat and drink in the open air:
ART CLUMBA
QArt Clumba na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatniches-
kaya 5/7, bldg. 10, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 499
678 02 25, www.artclumba.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
DACHA NA POKROVKE
QЕ-3, Pokrovsky bul.18/15 bldg. 2 (entrance on
Podkolokolny per.), MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 499
764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.ru. Open 12:00
- 06:00. €€. PAESW
DETI RAIKA
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEW
GOGOL
QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg. 1, MChekhovska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Open
12:00 - 05:00. Fri, Sat 24hrs. €. PAESW
LE PAIN QUOTIDIEN
QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 989 45 60, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 00:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 00:00. €. PASW
MADAME BOULANGER
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 19 01, www.madame-boulanger.ru. Open
08:00 - 22:00. €. PASW
€€. PASW
SCANDINAVIA
QB-2, Mal. Palashevsky per. 7, MPushkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open
12:00 - 01:00. €€. PASW
SKY LOUNGE
QLeninsky pr. 32a, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7)
495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 until
last guest. €€€. PASW
MOMO
This Italian restaurant perhaps defines itself a little too nar-
rowly - although specialising in pizza and homemade fresh
pasta, it has a strong selection of fish and meat too, served
in a style that wouldn’t be out of place in an upmarket British
restaurant. Be careful though - the massive choice of seafood
comes priced by the 100g, and it’s difficult not to get carried
away! The wine list prides itself on its selection of French and
Italian vintages, but its fresh juices look equally appetising.
Its business-class clientele are dispersed across three rooms,
with its most spacious resembling a summer terrace, com-
plete with wicker chairs. QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 66, bldg. 2,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest.
ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW
SORRISO OSTERIA AND PIZZERIA
The real winner here is the pizza - it’s long and incredibly
thin and arrives at your table straight after being cooked to
a crispy delight in a stone wood-fired oven. There are also
other Italian favourites on offer, but we are always tempted
by the pizza. The smart staff and a soundtrack that for once
does not include songs by Eros Ramazotti adds yet more
fresh air to the usual formula.QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 7, MOk-
hotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 506 24 44, www.pizzasorriso.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW
STEAK HOUSES
FUNNY CABANY
Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congre-
gate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet
modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive
barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from
homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender
steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non
meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous
portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident
micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a res-
taurant to miss out on. In the summer their large rooftop
terrace is a great addition, with 2 bars, a grill, barbecue par-
ties, brunches and lots of parties.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka
5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www.
funnycabany.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW
GOODBEEF
This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their meat
fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to
the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet mingon and
some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good),
tell them how you want it made up and it arrives at your table
within minutes. The prices are low, but as the concept is from
down under, you can be sure the meat is a healthy slab of Aus-
tralian goodness. QC-2, Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1,
MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASWOutside the city
Sukhoe - Dry
Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet
Sladkoe - Sweet
38 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 39 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
BOGDARNYA
Do you need a break from constant meetings, traffic,
calls, emails, car alarms going off, drilling and everything
else that big city life entails? Are you tired of all the GMO
and chemical-pumped produce that all the supermar-
kets seem to be selling? If your answer is yes, why not
get back to nature, breathe some fresh country air and
try a taste of agritourism! Interested? Then a great place
to do this is at the Bogdarnya Agricultural and Touristic
Complex.
This 400-hectare riverside property is located in the pic-
turesque countryside and forest about 120 kilometres
east of Moscow (in Vladimir region, near the town Pe-
tushki), providing the chance to experience life on a real,
working farm that supplies meat to its own farm shop
in Moscow. Here you can learn all about meat produc-
tion from paddock to plate, watch cheese making, milk
the cows, pet the goats, feed Boris the boar and engage
yourself in other forms of educational “agritainment”.
Bogdarnya also provides a wide range of recreational
activities, including horse riding, quad biking, fishing,
canoeing, hiking, paintball and more.

The Bogdarnya “Vladimir Track” festival is a traditional
village celebration with sleigh rides in winter and coach
rides in summer. The festival is dedicated to Russia’s
main road the Vladimir (or Siberian) Track.
Bogdarnya also has two stables mostly with Russian
breeds of horses including Vyatki, Donchaki, Orlov trot-
ters and Vladimir Heavy Draft which were all used on the
track in former times either for riding or harness work.
Visitors can enjoy any type of equestrian activity from
short 30 minute rides for beginners with a trainer to lon-
ger three hour rides, as well as coach rides, sledge rides.
The facility can also support classical equestrian sport
with three parade fields.
The complex also hosts children’s camps, career guid-
ance programs for school students, plus corporate
events, training and seminars. Russian holidays are cel-
ebrated in fairytale folksy fashion with traditional cos-
tumes, music, dancing and much good old-fashioned
merriment. On a more romantic note, one can also ar-
range a ride in the forest using one of their horse drawn
carriages, or sleighs in winter and have a picnic around
a fire with samovar, gluxvin and shashlik. A 22-room on-
site hotel is soon to reopen in a recently renovated and
extended building on the property.

The complex was founded by an Englishman, John Ko-
piski, and his Russian wife Nina. The Kopiskis are devoted
Orthodox Christians with a mission to promote a healthy
lifestyle, so a visit to Bogdarnya is an entirely wholesome
retreat that benefits both body and soul!
QVladimir Oblast, Petushki, Krutovo Village 22B
(121km from Moscow), tel. (+7) 903 961 58 80, www.
bogdarnya.ru. Getting there: take a train from Kursky
railway station to Petushki. From Petushki take a taxi
to Bogdarnya.
Every foreigner coming to Moscow will almost always
have the following stereotype: Russia is the coldest coun-
try in the world, where winter lasts for four to five months
throughout the larger part of its territory. And true as it
may be, the stereotype forgets to mention how beautiful,
blooming and hot our summers can be!
Typically, our summers don’t last more than three months
so when it finally arrives we just love to do everything out-
doors: cyclists, rollers and skateboarders cut through the
city streets, a huge number of cafes set up their own sum-
mer terraces on the streets and locals spend time walking
along the river, which is one of the best places to marvel at
the beautiful sunset.
Many Muscovites respond to the summer heat by spend-
ing as much time out of the city as possible, either on
holiday or at the dacha. Not everyone is lucky enough to
have a dacha, however. So we’ve decided to compile a little
list of really cool and cooling restaurants outside the city,
in the nature, to make the most of your Russian summer
experience.
ERMAK
A tranquil setting in the beautiful Russian nature, a lively
little stream flowing from the lush forest, traditional Rus-
sian huts and wells reminding us of the olden days and
a serene river providing a nice fresh breeze…sounds like
a place far far away, doesn’t it? Well, it’s not! Welcome to
Ermak restaurant, located just a short distance away from
Moscow’s Krylatskoe metro station. The interior has an
authentic medieval Russian feel to it while the summer
veranda - under the soft shade of the trees - overlooks the
river and the gently rolling hills. The menu is full of hearty
Russian delicacies such as soups, pies, pickled vegetables,
pelmeni and meats/fish prepared over hot burning coal.
QUl. Nizhnie Mnevniki 41/1, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499
728 20 03, www.restoran-ermak.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Getting there: from the metro go to the bus station (5
min) and take bus 271. €€€€. PAW
FISH POINT
Gone are the days when man would go out into the nature
to get his food himself…or are they? Fish Point, located in
the Zolotoi Fazan fishing complex about 10km northwest
of Moscow’s city edges, offers guests a chance to get their
hands on some fishing rods and try their luck at catching
roughly 15 different types of freshwater fish. From its spa-
cious and country style terrace, the restaurant overlooks
the lovely Lipka river and the luscious forest surrounding
it. Fresher fish is probably impossible to come by any-
where in the Moscow area and the chefs have their own
unique way of preparing all sorts of delicacies from various
seas and lakes. QNovorizhskoe Shosse, 29km, MVolo-
kolamskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 36 65, www.fshpointrest.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Getting there: from the metro
take marshrutka 209 or 151. €€. PAW
FLORENTINI COUNTRY CAFÉ
Authentic Italian food, a peaceful forest setting and a
lovely summer veranda - what more could you wish for on
a scenic summer day? Thankfully, Florentini has all this! Lo-
cated just outside Moscow’s main ring road to the south,
Florentini has that relaxing atmosphere that you some-
times desperately need after the hustle bustle of the city.
And make sure to arrive very hungry because the pizza is
authentic, the risottos and pasta plentiful, the meats and
fish simply to die for, the salads fresh and the desserts
scrumptious!QKaluzhkoe Shosse, Dubrovka, Sosno-
vaya ul. 3B, MTeply Stan, tel. (+7) 495 225 36 86, www.
forentinicafe.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. Getting there: from the metro take marshrutka
398 or 531 to Dubrovka. PAW
SHOREHOUSE
Perhaps it’s not quite the marina of Monaco, but Shore-
House restaurant by the yacht club at Crocus City is the
only place just within Moscow’s city limits that can come
close. During the summer months this restaurant/pool-
side terrace is the ideal place to catch some sun, take a dip
in the pool with you refreshing drink of choice, enjoy the
view of yachts gently rocking on the waves, feel the fresh
breeze from the river and, of course, savor some fantas-
tic dishes ranging from fresh seafood to sushi, and from
traditional Russian dishes to Central Asian specialties. This
is also an ideal place for all kinds of events, corporate or
private.QCrocus City Mall, MKAD 65 - 66 Km, MMya-
kinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 78, www.sh-crocus.ru/ru/
restaurant. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. PALW
40 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 41 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Nightlife
at a Viennese café. The food isn’t bad at all, although
the quail in a mushroom jus was more of a snack than
a meal, despite the price tag; the Viennese ambience
will take a bit longer to develop.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmi-
trovka 7/5, bldg. 5, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692
03 09. 24hrs. AW
MYBAR
This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow
cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to
create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are
looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff.
MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with
expats and local office workers looking for a post-work
drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back
alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife
scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a
good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock
classics to dance to at the weekend. Live music nights on
Thursdays with free concerts from rock and blues bands.
The happy hours, charismatic owner and relaxed open-
ing hours (stay as long as you like!) have made it a hit
with both locals and stars such as the Crazy Horse caba-
ret, and Wes Borland of Limp Bizkit fame with his band
Black Light Burns. Be prepared to queue a little to get in
later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the
crowd gets lively.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.
su. Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAE
Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under
those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite
nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy
to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or
a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the
wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed.
ALTERNATIVE AND LIVE MUSIC
B2 CLUB
One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live
jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors
holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000
people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of
music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage
to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is.
Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear
some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices.
As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge,
rock concerts, a summer courtyard - a veritable one stop
shop for a busy night out.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 8/1,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.
ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEW
CULT CLUB
This is one for the cool kids who are into their funk and
deep soul music and can keep dancing to it until the sun
rises. At first glance it seems like a small underground place,
but there is in fact a whole other huge café/restaurant area
Nightlife Nightlife
hidden round the back which really fills up when a popular
DJ is playing - the place can get pretty sweaty and the air-
con works marginally better back there. The music here
hovers around the funk, jazz, reggae, ska genres and you
can regularly catch local break-dancers having a battle
here.QE-3, Yauzkaya ul. 5, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495
917 57 06, www.cultmoscow.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PENW
DOM
Every city needs a music venue like this. Dom will rarely
host an act you’ve heard of, and will often talk about a
genre you’re not entirely sure about, but it’s run by people
who know and love their music. Therefore you can be sure
that whoever is on stage will be doing their thing - from
experiment electronica to Tibetan ritual percussion - with
impressive expertise and professionalism. You can also
be confident that the audience is there to see the band,
not look at each other. Tasty Timmermans Kriek is on tap,
and there’s a fully no-smoking policy. Open your ears, and
give it a try.QD-4, Bol. Ovchinnikovsky per. 24, MNo-
vokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 72 36, www.dom.com.
ru/eng. Open Wed - Sun from 19:00. PENGW
DUMA
This place is not only literally underground it’s also
through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an al-
ley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk
music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff.
Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up
the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic
- old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound
whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected
on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as
the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table be-
comes the place to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg.
3V (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00
- 06:00. AEW
KRISIS ZHANRA
Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never
ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch
specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for din-
ner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best
described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This
is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes
its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly
affordable for its location. On the recent night that we
went, we were luckily able to get a table and were treated
to service and food that usually costs a whole lot more in
a location like this. The soups, steaks and seafood dishes
our table enjoyed were all of great value and the alcohol
selection was fairly priced. When feeling unsure about
what you want to enjoy this is a safe bet: just make sure to
come early or book a table in advance.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka
16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94,
www.kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 -
05:00. PENW
BARS
BAR STRELKA
The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this
bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become
a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since
it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup
where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting
you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro
mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically
pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills
or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs.
QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevs-
kaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PAULW
DARLING, I’LL CALL YOU LATER
Half way between pub and bar this curiously named
drinking den is a good place for those with a big crowd
of friends who actually want to chat with each other. Mu-
sic is background indie-rock stuff, bar snacks are plenty,
there are a few TVs for those needing to keep up with the
sport and plenty of large tables. Yet more encouraging is
the chance to bring in board games or cards to play with
your mates. By mixing a more upscale drinks menu with
a downbeat interior and vibe it draws in both wealthier
students and professionals alike.QB-1, 2-ya Tverskaya
-Yamskaya ul.10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 926 520
77 80, www.darlingbars.ru. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun
12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00.
PAGW
DIDU
For some stylistic reason everywhere from the doors to
the toilet walls have been attacked by plastisine shapes
crafted by idle hands into people, flowers, logos, names
and other more suggestive shapes - perhaps its a hint to-
wards the age of the average guest here, or at least their
attention span. On quieter evenings it can be a nice venue
for drinks with friends, albeit a little too young for some.
Come weekends there’s a much more Europop vibe as the
air pumps with the latest party tunes and a young sparkly
crowd come to flirt and down cocktails under neon lights.
QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 24, bldg.2, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 624 13 20, www.cafe-didu.ru. Open 12:00-
06:00. PAW
MOLOKO
Until recently this was a Soviet-style dairy store, sell-
ing farm-fresh milk from the churn and looking in-
creasingly incongruous among the smart shops of
this downtown district. Now, though, tea and cock-
tails have replaced tvorog and kefir, and the utilitar-
ian tiled counters have been swept away in favour of
dark-wood fittings and a light jazz soundtrack. Thus,
Moloko neatly illustrates how Moscow has changed,
with socialist practicality replaced by a local attempt
42 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 43 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Nightlife Nightlife
CLUB ROXBURY
In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-suc-
cessful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury
and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests
sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most
beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. In-
ternational DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and
sensory overdrive.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open
22:00 - 06:00. PAEW
SOLYANKA
Not quite sure what it is really, Solyanka is part club, part
restaurant, part someone else’s lounge room when that
someone else owns a mansion. Suitably cool and unaf-
fected, a lot of Russians sit around chilling out and ignor-
ing each other while lounging on or dancing over the mis-
matched furniture. Just arrive early enough so you don’t
have to wait in line. Don’t forget to carefully put together
your hipster uniform to ensure you pass the cooler-than-
thou dress code control - even if you were eating here
earlier in the day, they will still force you through the or-
deal later on. QD-3, Ul. Solyanka 11/6, bldg. 1, MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 221 75 57, www.s-11.ru. Open 10:00
- 06:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 07:00. PAEW
COCKTAIL BARS
DREAM BAR
The name Dream Bar may create an image of a very chic,
strictly face controlled cocktail bar, however the reality is
close to a cosy, jolly pub, despite billing themselves as a
cocktail bar, a pint seems to be an equally popular poison
of choice. Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the
prices are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inven-
tive and tasty. A popular hangout at the end of the day
for the after-work crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and
the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes
come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance mu-
sic, indicates it’s time to take off the ties and let your hair
down.QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye
prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68, www.dreambar.ru. Open
24hrs. PASW
SECRET BAR
Who would guess that a discreet door down an alley of
one of Moscow’s fanciest shopping streets hides one of
Moscow’s most popular cocktail bars? They would be
even more surprised by the democratic door policy and
cheap prices! These factors may help explain why Secret
Bar (hence the name) is packed with a hip and fun-loving
crowd on the weekends, and those looking to savour a
well-crafted cocktail or hookah during the weeknights.
On the busy nights it can take a while to get a drink, but
the cocktails are worth the wait, and with these prices,
you can order a few at a time!QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 6,
bldg. 3 (down alley behind Jean Jacques), MTverskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 921 07 50, www.secretbar.ru. Open 18:00 -
06:00. PAEW
THE HUDSON BAR
This smart American bar brings some much needed atten-
tion to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White
Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held
back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elit-
ism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriv-
ing alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise
one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code.
A myriad of sports channels (including US ones) and happy
hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for
inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always
work.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)
495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 until last
guest, Fri and Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW
TIKI-BAR
In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow
Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspira-
tion for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan
furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken di-
rectly from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the
Americas at the beginning of the 20th century. For those
who want a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices
of rum as well as an exotic choice of cocktails - definitely
a tropical menu! Tiki is a good party place, especially for
those who love to dance, hosting many Latin American
themed parties along with masterclasses in Latin Ameri-
can, Brazilian and salsa dancing.QA-2, Sadovaya-Kudrin-
skaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 02,
www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAEW
CLUBS
PROPAGANDA
A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a chilled
out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is attentive and
swift so for better or worse you’re never long without a tipple.
The food is reasonably priced portion-wise and the lounge-
house sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an
evening, different djs sets kick in. Also one of the oldest clubs
around in Moscow, they’ve already notched up 11 years and
still invite foreign djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sun-
day nights.QD-2, Bol. Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.propagandamoscow.com.
Open 11:30 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. PENW
CLUB GARAGE
One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998),
Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday /
Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open
24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage
has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be
young and Russian (although some of the fashion tastes can
be a little extreme), but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed
“face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t
want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs.
Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October.
QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70
75, www.garageclub.ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW
44 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 45 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
What to see What to see
THE KREMLIN
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively
ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking
the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In
the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin,
the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient
city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of
the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red
walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architec-
tural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical,
through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet
modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, be-
ing part of the Government and Presidential estate, there
are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the
citadel an essential conquest.
Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took
Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are
a number of ticket booths, the most important being lo-
cated in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Krem-
lin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having
bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom
located near the ticket office, under the gate.
A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself,
along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient
buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the spar-
kly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a
separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which
will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be
purchased before you enter the Kremlin.
Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s
Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for
which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibi-
tions can usually be bought at the entrance to the build-
ings in which they are held, although it is advisable to
check before you enter the Kremlin.
Inside the Kremlin
Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative young-
ster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected
in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to
Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it
with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework.
Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral,
where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was
built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are
considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow
given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey
Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and
Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.
Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its
name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes
are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now
Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a cor-
ner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church
notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine
icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the
15th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the
Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest
and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristo-
tle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned
Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s
horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers
now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes.
The cossacks brought them back after they caught up
with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter
service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.
NEXT TO RED SQUARE
ALEXANDROVSKY GARDENS
The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to
take a stroll and get down to some serious people watch-
ing as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of
the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight
of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to
the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change
ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal
flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
KREMLIN ARMOURY
You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th
Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s
gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and impe-
rial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are
the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely
glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Ar-
moury tickets can only be used after the time printed on
them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin.
QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49,
www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The
Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30,
16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be pur-
chased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket
ofce in Alexandrovsky sad.
LENIN MAUSOLEUM
On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the
founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-non-
sense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you
forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No
bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure
you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead
but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 -
13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.
ST. BASIL’S CATHEDRAL (POKROVSKY SOBOR)
Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Ba-
sil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was
built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat
of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s
position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from
outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also
worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces
of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a
stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated
with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one
direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes
above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simul-
taneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit
inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the impor-
tance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red
Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.
saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl.
RIVER CRUISES
FLOTILLA RADISSON ROYAL MOSCOW
A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best
ways to see the city from its very centre, with unpar-
alleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off,
we leave behind the Moscow International Business
centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the sec-
ond tallest of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’. Across the river
is the ‘other White House’, the house of the Russian
government. A few minutes’ sailing takes us to the
Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoy’s Kitty
and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in re-
ality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and
Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque
walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite
bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park.
The silhouette of a hammer and sickle peeks out
above the treetops, a glimpse of the gargantuan struc-
ture of Moscow State University, the world’s tallest
educational building and the ‘big sister’ of the seven.
Passing Luzhniki Stadium, we reach the green banks of
fashionable Gorky Park.
At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny
Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great
marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its
creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed
the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour
opposite. Looking at its imposing domes, it’s hard to
believe that this was once a gigantic outdoor pool.
On Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-co-
loured arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas
church, is the House on the Embankment, built to
house the Soviet elite.
From the river we’ve got perfect views of the Kremlin and
the churches huddled inside it as we arrive at the heart of
Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a mil-
lennia St Basil’s idiosyncratic domes are still breathtaking;
legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them
making something so beautiful ever again.
QA-2, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier,
MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radisson-
cruise.ru. It is advisable to book tickets well in ad-
vance (tickets can also be bought online). Boats
leave every day between 13:00 - 21:00. Boats are
sometimes hired out for private parties so check the
departure times in advance. Boats are sometimes
hired out for private parties so check the departure
times in advance. Tickets for adults 900Rbl, children
650Rbl, frst class 2,000Rbl. AUKW
46 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 47 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
What to see What to see
CHURCHES AND
MONASTERIES
CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST THE SAVIOUR
This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to
look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many
blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the
thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly
restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000
and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church
at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century
cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon.
The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the his-
tory of the site where you can see pictures of the giant
swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin
topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During
excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathe-
dral, museum and the view from the collonade. QB-3, Ul.
Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28
47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00.
Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for
up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call
(+7) 495 637 28 47).
NOVODEVICHY CEMETERY
This is the Who’s Who of
Russia. Anyone who was
anyone is here. Given the
Russian adoration for stat-
ues and immense monu-
ments, it is a fascinating
place and hunting around
for the famous graves is
almost as much fun as ac-
tually finding them. Chek-
hov’s simple and modest
memorial is in stark contrast to the many Soviet mega-
plinths. Notable graves include Stalin’s wife, Mayakovsky,
Gogol, Eisenstein, Khrushchev and Yeltsin.QLuzhnetsky
proezd 2, MSportivnaya, novodevichye.com. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Admission free.
NOVODEVICHY MONASTERY
Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific
place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by
the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a for-
tress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion
globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524.
It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned
his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the
Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful
cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look
at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here
and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the
walls.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7)
499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
POKROVSKY MONASTERY
This humble 17th Century monastery, which was exten-
sively reconstructed during the 19th Century, derives most
of its fame from Matryona of Moscow, the local saint who is
buried here. Born in 1885, Matryona, although born blind
was blessed from an early age with remarkable prophecy
and healing powers. During the communist years she was
an important figure in the clandestine Christian movement
and is said to have performed many miracles. In 1952 she
predicted her own death and died soon after. Her final
wishes were that all who needed her should come to visit
her even when she was gone and she would strive even in
death to offer solace to those in need. QE-3, Ul. Tagans-
kaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 49 20, www.
pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
VYSOKO-PETROVSKY MONASTERY
Founded in the 1380s, in the same century as Moscow
itself, this early medieval monastery was part of the origi-
nal fortifications of the city. Today, the several churches
inside have marvellous paintings and icons inside yet the
exterior is really quite rundown. Today there is a friendly
colony of cats, fed by the monastery faithful.QС-2, Ul.
Petrovka 28/2, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 17
78, www.obitelpetrova.ru. Open 08:30 - 20:00. Admis-
sion free.
MUSEUMS
ALL-RUSSIAN DECORATIVE ART MUSEUM
Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than
200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Rus-
sia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates
and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary
Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are
some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood bas-
kets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings
are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum
also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from
the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to
20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excur-
sions in English are also available. QC-1, Delegatskaya
ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.
vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon
of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl.
GREAT PATRIOTIC WAR MUSEUM 1941-1945
Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it is
known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the
50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses
a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with
excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately
as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Stair-
case leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space.
Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about
the different battles and parties involved.QUl. Bratyev Fon-
chenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www.
poklonnayagora.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon, last Thu of the month. Admission 100Rbl.
INSTITUTE OF RUSSIAN REALIST ART
If you are a fan of realist art and haven’t yet exhausted your
interest with a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery, then it is well
worth making the trek down here to see Russia’s single
largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former
cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four
floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic
Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of
the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by
Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and de-
cay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism.
QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, Derbenevskaya
nab. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.
rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.
MODERN ART CENTRES
MOSCOW MULTIMEDIA ART MUSEUM
This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on
photography and video art and regularly hosts great
exhibitions many of which make particularly good use
of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The
central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Mos-
cow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely
reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. A
great addition to Moscow’s burgeoning contemporary
art scene.QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en.
Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl.
MOSCOW MUSEUM OF MODERN ART
Based in three locations, this building is the main hub
of the MMOMA and its great garden of witty sculp-
tures by Tsereteli offers an impressive introduction to
the contemporary Moscow art scene on the way in.
The museum’s aim is to preserve Russia’s avant-garde
tradition and they are constantly adding to their col-
lection of Malevichs, Filonovs and the like. Moving
closer to the present day the permanent collection
also carries much non-conformist art from the late
Soviet period, as well as new stars of the Russian art
scene. QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00
- 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the
month. Admission from 150Rbl.
RED OCTOBER CHOCOLATE FACTORY
One of Moscow’s most beloved manufacturers - the
Red October Chocolate Factory, moved to a site fur-
ther out of the city centre a few years ago and as the
old building’s conversion into a luxury residential com-
plex slowed down, the artists moved in. The current
residents includes the Lumiere brothers photography
centre that regularly stages great retrospectives of in-
ternational and local photographers from the modern
age all the way back in to the early 20th Century. The
Art Strelka design college is also located here and reg-
ularly has lectures and workshops as well as concerts
on their outdoor stage. QC-4, Bersenevskaya nab. 6,
MKropotkinskaya, www.redok.ru.
WINZAVOD
A hub of contemporary galleries and other artistic inspi-
rations on an industrial factory lot that used to be a wine
factory. There are over ten galleries with exhibitions
varying from Russian photography to American and
British works. There are also artists studios, an alterna-
tive clothes shop and an excellent cafe. The location and
industrial surroundings gives the feeling of being on the
movie studio back lot.Q4-y Siromyatnichesky per.1,
bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46,
www.winzavod.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
MOSCOW FREE TOURS
Moscow Free Tours offer a great way to see the city on
a budget whilst finding out interesting facts and anec-
dotes about Moscow and its history. The tour guides are
passionate and personal and are really good at engag-
ing with those doing the tours. They really want you
to have a good time because then you’re more likely
to tip! The website is clearly set up and the booking
process simple. The tours cover many of the main at-
tractions of Moscow, and did I mention it’s absolutely
free?! Just don’t forget to book beforehand. Moscow
Free Tours also offers paid tours: a Kremlin, a Commu-
nist and a Moscow Metro tour.QC-3, Nikolskaya ul. 4/5,
MPloschad Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495 222 34 66, www.
moscowfreetour.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Free tours
start every day at 10:45 (2 hrs). The Kremlin tour is not
possible at Thursdays, but instead you can make the
Arbat Promenade Tour. Kremlin tour 1,900Rbl, Metro
tour 1,200Rbl, and Communist tour 1,200Rbl (2 hrs).
48 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 49 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
What to see What to see
NIKOLAY ROERICH MUSEUM
Nikolay Roerich and his family are possibly some of the
most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100
years. Travelling all over Asia for years on end in the early
20th Century, Nikolay and his clan recorded the beliefs, life
and art of various different nationalities hoping to preserve
their way of life, describe it to the world and also learn from
it. This fantastic museum is dedicated not only to Nikolay’s
priceless paintings, but also the people he met during his
many years of tough travel. Music, lights and themed exhib-
its add great atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks
and artifacts from the Roerich family, whilst extensive Eng-
lish descriptions add depth to the work on display. A must
see.QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 220Rbl.
STATE CENTRAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY
RUSSIAN HISTORY
Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole cen-
tury of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented
history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s man-
sion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this
grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution.
Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, cov-
ering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are
sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the
experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary
phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race
starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedi-
cated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles.QB-2, Tverskaya
ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl.
THE PUSHKIN STATE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily
intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fash-
ion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s art in the form
of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and
representatives of various European schools of painting. In
1924 the museum saw the first addition of a picture gallery,
to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from
the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure
to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit
side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old
plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate
wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The
temperamental audio guides provide the only English
available. Watch out for long queues at the weekends
when locals pour in to admire the latest exhibitions.QC-3,
Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609
95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Ad-
mission may vary according to the exhibition.
TRETYAKOV GALLERY
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the fa-
mous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to
start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and col-
lector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city
in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian
art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century
icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of
Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is
a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes
of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are
labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size
laminated information sheets found throughout the mu-
seum; there is always at least one English version hidden
amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include
the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a
separate site a kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per.
10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.
tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00
- 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English
audio guide 250Rbl. PU
TRETYAKOV GALLERY AT KRYMSKY VAL
Dedicated to Russian art of the 20th Century, this is the
extension part of the Tretyakov project. And a worthy ad-
dition it is. Stunningly presented, each work contributes to
the chronological project. Head up to the fourth floor to
begin with the Moscow modernists. Not only is this venue,
in terms of English, one of the friendliest, it is also very well
presented. Everything is explained in English and as well
as the canvas texts there are several multimedia and video
representations providing a historical and political frame-
work to understanding the pieces. Most impressive is the
video of the destruction of the Cathedral, right near to a
full screen window from where you can see the site today.
A visit here is a real history lesson and allows the visitor
to see the Soviet era as the long and complex process it
was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes and ideas and
stages.QB-5, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7)
499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00
- 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English
audio guide 250Rbl. PU
high obelisk covered in representations of scenes from the
war. Behind the obelisk there’s also a war memorial mu-
seum and further on down the hill an exhibition of tanks,
war planes and other heavy weaponry. Beyond that the
park stretches on into forest and down towards a tributary
of the Moscow river.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 7, Poklon-
naya gora, MPark Pobedy. Open 24hrs.
TSARITSYNO
Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town
palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow
estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the
Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main
architect, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the
ensuing years it became a fashionable country estate and a
particular favourite place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst
the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing
renovations and the gothic style palace at its heart is now
looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than at
possibly any other time during its history. The huge gardens,
meadows and woods surrounding the palace are a tranquil
and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo,
tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park
open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 -
20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
mission park free. Museums 30 - 300Rbl. UK
VOROBYEVY GORY (SPARROW HILLS)
Stand and survey over 1000 years of history. It might be hard
to imagine the footprints of Napoleon when you are sur-
rounded by kiosks and fast food vendors, not to mention
the souvenir touts. Still, you can get an idea of the length and
breadth of the capital from here, as well as seeing which of
Stalin’s Seven Sisters skyscrapers you can make out or play at
counting the golden onion globes. Turn around for a glimpse
of the great promise of education for the people; Moscow
State University (MGU) directly behind you. This building is
grand, the rest behind it are frightfully unspectacular.QMich-
urinsky pr. 13, MVorobyevy Gory, tel. (+7) 499 739 27 07,
www.vorobyovy-gory.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
PARKS AND GARDENS
STATE MUSEUM-ESTATE ARKHANGELSKOE
The aristocratic estate to the north-west of the capital was
home to the Yusupov family, and Prince Nikolai was one of
the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy
includes a collection of more than 100 works from the late
18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of
Paris saw him become the first man to introduce the works of
Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gérard to Russian audiences.
Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoye
show, which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries.
The exhibition runs until March 8, 2015.QGETTING THERE:
From MTushinskaya, MRizhskaya, MDmitrovskaya.
5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, Krasnogorsky District. Tel. (+7) 498
653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Admission park 150Rbl,
exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. Exhibition open
10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and
last Wed of the month. Park always open.
GORKY PARK
The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover in
2011 and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters as the
park has gone back to being a wholesome place to picnic or
jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are available for rent near
the entrance, there are pedalos on the ponds, picnic areas
are scattered throughout and near the Andreyevsky bridge
where salsa classes gather in warm weather, there’s even an
artificial beach. In addition to all that you’ll find regular open-
air concerts and cinema, flea markets, yoga classes, great
places to eat and drink, ping pong tables and the contempo-
rary art space Garage CCC.QB-5, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark
Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 237 35 24, www.park-gorkogo.com.
Open 24hrs. Free wi f available throughout the park.
PARK POBEDY
Constructed in honour of Russia’s victory in the Great
Patriotic War (World War II), park pobedy (victory) offers
powerful reminders of Russia’s suffering during the war as
well as providing views over the skyscrapers of Moscow.
The entrance to the park is marked by a long promenade
surrounded by fountains, which leads up to a 142 metre
Tsaritsyno
50 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 51 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to stay Where to stay
4 STARS
ADAGIO MOSCOW PAVELETSKAYA
QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,100Rbl).
BEST WESTERN VEGA HOTEL & CONVENTION
CENTER
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms
(Room prices start at 3,600Rbl).
COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT MOSCOW CITY
CENTER HOTEL
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,000Rbl).
HOLIDAY INN LESNAYA
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 15, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783
65 00, www.moscow-hi.ru. 301 rooms (Room prices
start at 16,000Rbl).
MARCO POLO PRESNJA
QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 70 rooms (Room
prices start at 14,500Rbl).
MARRIOTT MOSCOW TVERSKAYA
QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya.
com. 162 rooms (Room prices start at 11,500Rbl).
MERCURE MOSCOW PAVELETSKAYA
QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,391Rbl).
NOVOTEL MOSCOW CITY HOTEL
QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7)
495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
RADISSON BLU BELORUSSKAYA HOTEL
QA-1, Ul. 3-ego Yamskogo Polya 26, bldg. A, MBe-
lorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 49 00, www.radissonblu.
com/belorusskayahotel-moscow. 264 rooms (Room
prices start at 6,200Rbl).
RENAISSANCE MOSCOW HOTEL
QOlimpsky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931
90 00, www.renaissancemoscow.ru. 485 rooms (Room
prices start at 9,000Rbl).
3 STARS
AZIMUT MOSCOW TULSKAYA HOTEL
QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22
22, www.azimuthotels.com. (Room prices start at 4,700Rbl).
IBIS MOSCOW CENTRE BAKHRUSHINA
QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms
(Room prices start at 3,990Rbl).
WARSAW
QLeninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499 238
41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room prices
start at 5,100Rbl).
Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month,
you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you
to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of
hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique
mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where
these hotels are located and what market they cater for.
The traveller who is looking to stretch their budget will
appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories
just as much as the high flying business executive who is
looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of
negotiations and cultural programmes.
5 STARS
ARARAT PARK HYATT
QC-2, Ul. Neglinnaya 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783
12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room
prices start at 14,000Rbl).
CROWNE PLAZA MOSCOW WTC
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room
prices start at 8,000Rbl).
HILTON MOSCOW LENINGRADSKAYA
QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota,
tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
HOTEL BALTSCHUG KEMPINSKI MOSCOW
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. 230
rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl).
HOTEL NATIONAL
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 201 rooms
(Room prices start at 15,200Rbl).
LOTTE HOTEL MOSCOW
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms
(Room prices start at 15,000Rbl).
MARRIOTT MOSCOW GRAND HOTEL
QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 00 00, www.marriottmoscowgrand.com. 386
rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl).
METROPOL
QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms
(Room prices start at 10,000Rbl).
NIKOL’SKAYA MOSCOW
QC-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967
77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 211 rooms (Prices
start at 16,000Rbl).
RADISSON ROYAL HOTEL
QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7)
495 221 55 55, www.radisson.ru/royalhotel-moscow.
497 rooms (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl).
SHERATON MOSCOW SHEREMETYEVO
AIRPORT HOTEL
QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanerna-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.
com. 225 rooms (Room prices start at 7,434Rbl).
ASK THE CONCIERGE
Interview with Ilia Pismen-
ny, Concierge at the Ararat
Park Hyatt Moscow
Tell us something about
yourself. From early age I was
an ice skater and juggler for an
American Ice Show for many
years. Later I graduated from
the International School of Ho-
tel Management, Neuchâtel, Switzerland in 2002. Since
then I have worked in hotels in different front office posi-
tions. I became a hotel concierge in 2010 with the opening
of a luxury 5 star hotel in Moscow. At the end of 2012, I
joined the prestigious U.I.C.H. Les clefs d’Or association and
now being 38 years old I love this profession even more.
Summer is upon us, what should we visit? In Mos-
cow’s summer heat I always recommend getting closer
to nature by taking a tour of the Moscow suburbs like
Kolomenskoe (an estate which used to be the summer
residence of tsars) and Tsaritsyno (a magnificent coun-
try estate with a park spread over an area of a about 250
acres built for Empress Catherine the Great). For those
that prefer to stay within the city centre I recommend
visiting the cosy Hermitage Gardens with its three thea-
tres, several playgrounds and cafes. This is where Leo
Tolstoy used to stroll. Another place which you must
see is located on the banks of the Moskva River, Gorky
Park. This famous location of nearly 300 acres was once
a Soviet amusement park and is now a modern cultural
space. Take a Radisson cruise boat directly from the park.
What are the biggest challenges for you as a con-
cierge during the summer? Summer is the season for
tourism. The biggest challenge, I would say, is getting our
guests into Armoury Chamber museum and Kremlin ca-
thedrals with private guides. Many guests start writing to
concierge well in advance of their arrival in order to plan
their stay and want everything to be confirmed. Krem-
lin rules, being very strict, unfortunately do not always
allow us to confirm visits ahead of time. Another chal-
lenge is securing a table on summer terraces at trendy
restaurants as many of them do not take bookings but
seat guests upon arrival. In both cases this is where a
concierge’s contacts can be useful.
The Ararat Park Hyatt hotel has quite a few dining
options, which one would you recommend? At Ara-
rat Park Hyatt we have our famous rooftop Conservatory
Lounge and Bar with Kremlin and Bolshoi theatre view,
a modern minimalist sushi bar, Enoki, breakfast restau-
rant The Park and our signature restaurant Café Ararat.
I definitely recommend Café Ararat which combines
traditional Armenian with contemporary cultures. Its
authentic dishes are prepared using ingredients freshly
delivered direct from Armenia.
52 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 53 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Shopping Shopping
SHOPPING CENTRES
EVROPEYSKY SHOPPING CENTRE
QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495
921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 23:00. AK
GUM
QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43
43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
METROPOLIS SHOPPING CENTER
QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru.
Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
OKHOTNY RYAD
QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AULKW
TSVETNOY CENTRAL MARKET
QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 -
22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW
RAKETA WATCHES
Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the
only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it
is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only
others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own
movements; including the hair spring and escapement.
It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by
Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal
family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of
1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch fac-
tory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with
equipment. The factory also provided the stones of
Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which
you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers.
The factory began producing watches in 1949 under
the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961,
Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer
space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket)
to commemorate this. www.raketa.com.
PODIUM CONCEPT STOR
QC-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, MKuznetsky most,
tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www.podiumfashion.com.
Open 12:00 – 23:00.
TSUM
Q4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatralnaya, (+7)
495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. Open 10:00 – 22:00,
Sun 11:00 – 22:00.
TSVETNOY CENTRAL MARKET
Q4th Floor , C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bul-
var, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open
10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00.
GIFTS AND SOUVENIRS
ART LEBEDEV
You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here
but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook,
situated just off Tverskaya ul., is full of trendy design gifts
with a hint of the traditional thrown into the mix. QC-2,
Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 772 96 84, www.store.artlebedev.ru/ofine/psm/.
Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW
DULYOVSKY FARFOR
The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice
crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets
designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to
1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright
wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20,
MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.
ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
GALLERY MIKHAILOV
For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with
the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit
to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate
jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick
holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the
finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitro-
vka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www.
vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
PROSTO TAK
They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look
of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with
these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and
toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They
also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and
bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499
755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
RUSSIAN GIFTS
This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything
you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhlo-
ma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite
jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl.
Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984
71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. ALK
SHALTAI - BOLTAY
The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the
quaint fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky
Passazh, the shop features all manner of designer and
handmade goodies for the modern sophisticate or con-
temporary rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets
and more for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home
or on the body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping
center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7
(495) 768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 -
22:00. AL
RUSSIAN SOUVENIRS
Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just
talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are
looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we
recommend you consider buying some of the following:

Platok
A perfect present for any female friend or relative.
These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can
either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being
worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma
look even cuter than usual by being worn around the
head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable
type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The
real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so
delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled
through a woman’s wedding ring.
Birch wood crafts
The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the fur-
ther in to the countryside you get, the more you notice
that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It
then comes as no surprise that Russians have been
experts at producing items carved out of the bark of
their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly
popular as they are said to be very good for your hair.
Khokhloma
This traditional red, black and gold Russian design gen-
erally painted onto wooden household items dates
back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in
your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you
have space for more you can find almost anything with
khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco
sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic
team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing.
Vodka and Caviar
They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and
crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands
come out under the Russky standart label although lado-
ga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch
look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black be-
luga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the
planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100
if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street
touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.
ART SALON ON
STAROSADSKY
This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of
semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcraft-
ed into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative
items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to
take away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than
another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then
look no further than these cabinets filled with items
made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper,
the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious
stones. For something even more exotic they’re also
selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that
fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that
made the headlines in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk.
In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be
found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, pottery, tradition-
al scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica
crafts created by two famous Russian artists Natalya
Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev.QD-3, Starosadsky per.
10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.art-
gemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
SPASEEBO
At work, in the car, at home,
on holiday, in the club, be-
hind the wheel, in front
of the computer - what is
the one accessory that is
a must for all these activi-
ties and occasions? Why,
sunglasses of course! And
where do we get them? Why, Spaseebo of course! Here
you can choose from the largest range of shades: Rus-
sian wooden shades Woodsun, Woodwedo, Woodeez,
as well as rare European brands like Alain Mikli, Triwa,
Thierry Mugler, Oscar Magnuson and the classical Ray
Bans and Vannis. Oh and lets not forget about the snazzy
Matsudas from Japan. You can order them all online.
Spaseebo’s show room is centrally located near Chistye
Prudy metro station and is open from 10:00 until 20:00.
Visa and Mastercard accepted.QD-2, Krivokolenny per.
12, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 499 372 02 17,
www.spaseebo.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A
54 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 55 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Business directory Business directory
ACCOUNTANTS
AND CONSULTANTS
BAUKE VAN DER MEER TAX & LEGAL SERVICES
QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, of. 203b, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl.
DELOITTE
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787
06 00, www.deloitte.com.
ERNST AND YOUNG
QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPavelets-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na nabere-
jnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
LOWLANDS
QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7)
495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru.
PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS
QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val.
10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru.
SHR CONSULTING
QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel.
(+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com.
BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS
ASSOCIATION OF EUROPEAN BUSINESSES
QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8,
MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@
aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru.
FINNISH-RUSSIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.
HOSPITALITY IDEAS AND TRENDS CLUB
QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 59 46, [email protected], www.club-hit.ru.
RUSSIAN-GERMAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234
49 50, www.vdw.ru.
THE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th foor, MMayakovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.
THE BRITISH BUSINESS CLUB
Qwww.britishclub.ru.
THE RUSSO-BRITISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QС-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
RECRUITMENT
ANTAL RUSSIA
QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, of. 104, MTver-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com.
G-NIUS RUSSIA
QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru.
DO‘S AND DON‘TS
Behavioural differences faced by Expats – some
do’s & don’ts of doing business in Russia
Don’t schedule early morning appointments unless it
with other foreigners. Moscow might be a 24 hour city
but Russians simply don’t do mornings. If you suggest
meeting at eight, chances are that a Russian will assume
you mean eight in the evening, not morning!
Do re-confirm any appointments that you previously set
up weeks before, or (even better) on the day of the meet-
ing itself. Given the ad hoc nature of Russian business,
it’s quite normal for meetings to be moved even at the
last minute. This is known as a ‘kontrol’ny zvonok’, or a
confirmation call and is also a useful way of ensuring that
a pass has been ordered for you to enter the building –
and DO remember to bring photo ID with you!
Don’t send a Russian an e-mail asking if you can tel-
ephone them in several days’ time (unless of course if it is
a lengthy conference call or a telephone interview), just
call them. If they are busy, they will tell you and you can
quickly agree a time that works for both of you. Interrupt-
ing people isn’t really an issue on the phone – worst case,
they won’t answer or their mobile will be switched off.
Then you can e-mail them!!
Do bring a large stack of business cards with you (prefer-
ably printed in Russian on the reverse side), several times
more than you think you’ll need. Invariably you will be
introduced to additional people than those you were
expecting to meet, such as other colleagues, partners or
customers – be liberal when handing them out.
Do take advice from people who have ‘been there and
done it’, rather than people who think they have. “Yeah,
I know all about Russia, I met this Polish guy once who
told me about it” is similar to thinking you can become
an astronaut after watching a few episodes or Star Trek!
Don’t believe everything that you read in the interna-
tional media about Russia – come and find out for your-
self. Chat to some Expats who’ve been in town for a while
as they’ll give you more realistic insights into what’s go-
ing on than you’ll see on CNN!
Do come out with an open mind, a healthy dose of
patience and a sense of humour, then explain to your
head office that they need to learn to be comfortable
with ambiguity!
Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc
Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com
ON TWO WHEELS
Especially in weekends, you can see hundreds of bicycles
flocking the parks of Moscow. Last year, following the ex-
ample of other world cities like London, Paris and Vienna,
Russia introduced its own city bikes which can be rented
from various bicycle stations throughout the city. From a
legal perspective, a cyclist was a pedestrian with some kind
of steel device between his legs. A recent change in the
Правила Дорожного Движения Российской Федерации
(Rules of Road Traffic of the Russian Federation) has intro-
duced the велосипедист (cyclist) as a fully entitled partici-
pant of road traffic. Government Regulation № 221 of 22
March 2014, which entered into force on 8 April 2014 has
made the bicycle a real means of transport with all rights
and obligations. The most important change for cyclists is
probably that a driver who turns right or left must render
priority to a cyclist going straight. This was not written
clearly before. The new rules forbid cars to use sidewalks
and shoulders and obliges cyclists to use cycle paths, cyc-
lo-pedestrian paths or cycle lanes, IF they are there. In cen-
tral Moscow, you can indeed observe this novelty of cycle
paths painted in fresh green. But where there are no such
special roads for cyclists, cyclist of 14 years of age and older
may use the roads. This has not really trickled down to the
streets yet. Many cyclists are still using the pavement to the
dismay of pedestrians because of their growing numbers.
After all, a bicycle has wheels and this means “higher in the
pecking order” in the law of the asphalt jungle. The sound
of rubber on the street causes a jump-to-the-side reflex
with many pedestrians. For the cyclist who has the cour-
age to hit the open road, the opportunities are boundless.
Drivers are surprisingly tolerant towards cyclists, especially
when you are very clear about when you are going. Use
hand signals to change lanes and thank the driver who lets
you pass with a hand slightly raised from the handle bar.
Making eye contact dramatically increases your safety. The
hybrid nature of the bicycle makes it possible to use the
best of both worlds. As soon as you get off your bike, you
are a pedestrian. For example, you can use the переход
(underpass) to quickly get to the other side of a large road
(usually called a шоссе or a проспект). And especially dur-
ing working days, the bus lanes are a relative oasis. But look
out for jeeps and девятки (the hatchback Lada Samara,
called simply “number 9” in Russian)! Despite the novelty
of moving on two wheels, the Moscow cycling scene is re-
freshingly diverse. Mountain bikes are the most common,
but also low riders, city bicycles, racing and audax bikes
and even fixies can be spotted. It is common for cyclists
to greet each other, with a raised hand or simply a nod.
And if you are within hearing distance, you may use the
traditional Russian greeting for sportsmen amongst each
other : «физкульт привет»!
Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal
Services. For legal advice visit their website www.
bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.
U vas est visitka? –
Do you have a business card?
56 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 57 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Expat & Lifestyle Expat & Lifestyle
CULTURAL & EDUCATIONAL
CENTRES
THE AMERICAN CENTER IN MOSCOW
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat
11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.
BRITISH COUNCIL
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open
13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
CANADIAN CENTRE
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd foor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
GOETHE INSTITUTE
QLeninsky pr. 95a, MLeninsky Prospect, tel. (+7) 495
936 24 57, www.goethe.de.
LE CENTRE CULTUREL FRANCAIS
QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MKurskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 915 37 78, www.ccf-moscou.ru. Open 09:30 -
20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00.
NESO RUSSIA
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTagans-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org.
Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
EXPAT CONTACTS
AIESEC
Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org.
ALLIANZ ROSNO EXPAT FOOTBALL LEAGUE
Qwww.moscowfootball.com.
AMERICAN WOMEN’S ORGANISATION
Qwww.awomoscow.org.
AUSTRALIAN AND NEW ZEALAND SOCIAL
GROUP (AUSKI)
Qwww.gdaymoscow.com.
BRITISH WOMEN’S CLUB
Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk.
EXPATINRUSSIA
Q www.expatinrussia.com.
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S CLUB
Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru.
INTERNATIONS
Qwww.internations.org/expats/home/russia/moscow.
MOSCOU ACCUEIL (FRENCH WOMEN’S CLUB)
Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org.
NEDERLANDSE CLUB MOSKOU (DE TULPEN)
Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl.
SWEA (SWEDISH WOMEN’S EDUCATIONAL
ASSOCIATION)
Qwww.swea.org/moskva.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
ATLANTIC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QUl. Festivalnaya 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499
745 62 61, www.atlanticschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
ATLANTIC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, SKOLKOVO
QUl. Festivalnaya 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499
745 62 61, www.atlanticschool.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QUl. Bol. Akademicheskaya 24, MVoykovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. Open 09:00
- 18:00.
MONTESSORI SCHOOL
QStarovolynskaya Ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 971 86 26, www.mosmontessori.ru. Open
08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
THE ANGLO-AMERICAN SCHOOL OF MOSCOW
QUl. Beregovaya 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88,
[email protected], www.aas.ru. School hours 08:30 -
15:30.
THE ENGLISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QZeleny pr. 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 726 31
46, www.englishedmoscow.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
THE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF MOSCOW
QUl. Krylatskaya 12, bldg. 5, 6, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7)
499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.
INTERNATIONAL
WOMEN‘S CLUB
Professional Women’s
Evening
Summer has finally ar-
rived in Moscow! In
June, the International
Women’s Club of Mos-
cow’s 35th anniversary
season draws to a close.
What a wonderful year
it has been for them and their members with lots
of special events and treats! For those staying in
the city over the summer break they have a great
offer to enjoy the hot and sunny months in Mos-
cow without getting bored: the IWC summer trips.
Happening during June to August they will take you
to interesting, worthwhile cultural and historical
sights in and around the city. Last year, for instance,
they went to famous composer Tchaikovsky’s and
well-known writers Tolstoy’s and Tchekhov’s hous-
es, to name just two highlights. Learn all about the
upcoming trips by checking the website www.iwc-
moscow.ru or Facebook page www.facebook.com/
IWCMoscow in due time!
Contact: iwcgeneraloffi[email protected]
THE EXPAT EXPERIENCE
Please tell us something
about yourself. My name
is Jonathan Bex. I trained as
an actor in London and the
US and worked profession-
al for many years, mainly in
the UK, but now spend a
lot of my time in Moscow -
the theatre company keeps
me very busy here. I have a
young family here as well
now and I am slowly learning Russian with my daughter
- so far I’ve learnt, “she sleeps”, “she eats”, “she cries”.
What were your first ever impressions of Russia?
You always believe Russia is going to be cold. Not just
the climate but people’s attitudes. That’s the impression
you’re given. I was in my mid 40s before I first came here
so that impression had been stamped on me for a num-
ber of years. I was pleasantly surprised. OK - my first visit
here was in May so the weather was warm but so were
the people.
What do you enjoy most about living in Moscow?
It’s an exciting city. There is so much going on. Yes, thea-
tre is my first love and Moscow is teeming with it. Of
course it’s in Russian but you read the play before hand
you can still have a really enjoyable experience. But
then there is dance and music so culturally there’s a lot
to do and see. The city is blessed with parks as well so
there’s always green spaces to find for relaxation. I also
love walking through the city and straying off the main
routes - there is some delightful architecture and inter-
esting places to find.
What can you tell us about the difference between
theatre in Russia and in England? An actor’s life seems
to be changing in Russia and starting to resemble that of
the actor’s life in the UK more. In the UK actors are freelanc-
ers going from job to job - tv, theatre, radio and touring.
They may work for a theatre company on more than one
occasion but it’s not a permanent job. Many, actually still
most, actors in Moscow have permanent residences in
companies. A friend of mine works at the Maly Theater.
He’s been there for thirty years since he left drama school!
That just doesn’t happen in the UK. It has advantages and
disadvantages but I think most UK actors would love the
chance to have such a full and reliable career. Content
wise, generally, Russian theatre still seems to present more
classical works than you would see, say, in London.
Moscow is one of the most popular and rewarding expat
destinations. If you would like your expat group to be featured here,
just drop us a line at [email protected]
58 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 59 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Maps Expat & Lifestyle
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL OF THE IMMACULATE
CONCEPTION
QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopres-
nenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru.
EVANGELICAL-LUTHERAN ST. PETER-AND-
PAUL’S CATHEDRAL
QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru.
HISTORICAL MOSCOW MOSQUE
QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznets-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open
12:00 - 00:30.
INTERNATIONAL CHRISTIAN FELLOWSHIP
QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd foor (Library of For-
eign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48
01, www.icfmoscow.org.
MOSCOW BUDDHIST CENTRE
QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k),
MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/
en. Open 18:00 - 23:00.
MOSCOW CHORAL SYNAGOGUE
QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay
Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru.
MOSCOW CONGREGATION FOR PROGRESSIVE
JUDAISM
QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7)
495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru.
MOSCOW INTERNATIONAL SEVENTH-DAY
ADVENTIST CHURCH
QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7)
499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru.
ST. ANDREW’S ANGLICAN CHURCH
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org.
ST. ELISABETHGEMEINDE
QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadna-
ya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de.
SYNAGOGUE NA BOLSHOY BRONNOY
QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru.
© Студия Артемия Лебедева
US DENTAL CARE
Well-established and long-
respected American Board-
certified dentists and hygienists.
They speak English and Russian,
have a full range of general, spe-
cialised and children’s services,
extensive cosmetic services and
emergency care. The clinic is
spotless, high-tech and very cen-
trally located. Direct billing and
Corporate membership avail-
able. They have depth of a full service clinic and atmos-
phere of a small family practice. Q C-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka
7/5, bld. 2, MTeatralnaya, Okhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
933 86 86, www.usdentalcare.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PAW
INTERNATIONS
InterNations is the biggest global networking site for
expats of various nationalities and their family members
with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide.
By becoming a member you gain access to the online
social network were you can connect with other expats,
browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats
and interact with people who may have the same inter-
ests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host
monthly get-togethers. www.internations.org.
RUSSIAN FOR EXPATS
Ничего – Ничего means, at its most basic, “noth-
ing”. You can use it in any context in its most literal
sense but there’s more to it than just that. If your
girlfriend asks you what you think of her dress, you
can reply with ничего, not meaning that you don’t
think anything of it, but that you feel positively to-
wards it. If you want to tell your girlfriend not to
worry, because obviously she looks lovely, you can
say ничего ничего, to mean “don’t worry.” You can
also use ничего when someone steps on your foot
in the metro; if they apologise and you want to say
“that’s ok”, simply reply with ничего. If you want to
be very English and reply to “как дела” with “fine”,
just use your new favourite word: ничего.
LIDEN & DENZ
QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181,
MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www.
lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-and-Paul’s cathedral
60 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 61 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Maps Maps
M
A
L
. G
R
U
Z
I N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
V
A
L
U
L
.
STOLYARNY PER.
A
LE
X
A
N
D
R
A
N
E
V
SK
O
G
O
U
L.
B
O
L
. G
R
U
Z
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. K
O
Z
IK
H
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. S
A
D
O
V
A
Y
A
U
L
.
1
-YA
B
R
E
S
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2
-YA
B
R
E
S
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
C
H
A
Y
A
N
O
V
A
U
L
.
D
O
L
G
O
R
U
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
FA
D
E
E
V
A
U
L.
K
R
A
S
IN
A
U
L
.
K
R
A
S
IN
A
U
L
.
L
E
S
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
. D
M
IT
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
M
IU
S
S
K
A
Y
A
P
L
.
S
Y
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
TRIUMFALNAYAPL.
T
R
Y
O
K
H
P
R
U
D
N
Y
P
E
R
.
1
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L.
3
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
V
A
S
IL
Y
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
Z
O
O
L
O
G
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. B
R
O
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
.P
A
T
R
IA
R
S
H
Y
P
E
R
.
M
A
L
. B
R
O
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L
. S
A
D
O
V
A
Y
A
-
K
U
D
R
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
P
IR
ID
O
N
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
A
R
B
A
T U
L.
BOL. MOLCHANOVKA UL.
F
IL
IP
P
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
GRANATNY PER.
K
A
L
A
S
H
N
Y
P
E
R
. KH
LEBN
Y PER.
KOMPOZITORSKAYA UL.
MAL. NIKITSKAYA UL.
BOL. NIKITSKAYA UL.
BO
L. N
IKITSKAYA U
L.
M
A
L
. Z
N
A
M
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
E
R
Z
L
Y
A
K
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
IK
IT
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
N
O
V
IN
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
NOVY ARBAT UL.
PL. NIKITSKIE VOROTA P
O
V
A
R
SK
A
Y
A
U
L.
SKATERTN
Y PER.
S
P
IR
ID
O
N
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
T
R
U
B
N
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
V
S
P
O
L
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. A
F
A
N
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. V
L
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Z
N
A
M
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
E
N
E
Z
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
P
L
O
T
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
SIVTSEV VRAZHEK PER.
S
T
A
R
O
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
E
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L. LEV
SH
IN
SK
Y PER
.
B
U
T
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
CHISTY PER.
E
R
O
P
K
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
GAGARINSKY PER.
GLAZOVSKY PER.
G
O
G
O
L
E
V
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
K
H
IL
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
K
O
R
O
B
E
Y
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
K
R
O
P
O
T
K
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
U
R
S
O
V
O
Y
P
E
R
.
MOLOCHNY PER.
2
-Y O
B
Y
D
E
N
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
O
S
T
O
Z
H
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
P
R
E
C
H
IST
E
N
K
A
U
L.
P
O
M
E
R
A
N
TSE
V
P
E
R
.
P
O
Z
H
A
R
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
PRECHISTENSKY PER.
S
M
O
L
E
N
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
SO
YM
O
N
O
V
SK
Y P
R
O
EZD
K
R
Y
M
S
K
A
YA
N
A
B
.
N
O
V
O
K
R
Y
M
S
K
Y
P
R
.
KRYM
SKY PRO
EZD
P
U
S
H
K
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
KRYM
SKY V
AL.
B
O
L
. D
M
IT
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. L
U
B
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
IL
Y
U
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
E
G
L
IN
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
E
T
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
R
O
Z
H
D
E
S
T
V
E
N
K
A
U
L
. STO
LESHN
IKO
V PER.
B
A
L
C
H
U
G
U
L
.
G
A
Z
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
ILIN
KA U
L.
IP
A
T
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
R
A
S
N
A
Y
A
P
L
. (R
E
D
S
Q
U
A
R
E
)
KREMLEVSKAYA NAB.
KUZNETSKY MOST UL.
M
A
N
E
Z
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
O
H
O
V
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
IK
IT
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
IK
O
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
IK
O
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
A
Y
A
P
L
.
O
K
H
O
T
N
Y
R
Y
A
D
U
L
.
PUSHECHNAYA UL.
R
O
M
A
N
O
V
P
E
R
.
R
Y
B
N
Y
P
E
R
.
S
T
A
R
A
Y
A
P
L
.
TEATRALNY PROEZD
VARVARKAUL.
VASILYEVSKY
SPUSKPL.
SOFIYSKAYA NAB.
V
O
L
H
O
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
E
R
S
E
N
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
L
. S
T
A
R
O
M
O
N
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Y
A
K
IM
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
LO
TN
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
L
O
T
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
LO
T
N
A
Y
A
P
L.
1
-Y
G
O
L
U
T
V
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
KA
D
A
SH
EV
SKA
YA
N
A
B.
1
-Y
K
A
D
A
S
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
L
A
V
R
U
S
H
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
A
L
. Y
A
K
IM
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
PYZHEVSKY PER.
S
T
A
R
O
M
O
N
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
Y
A
K
IM
A
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
Y
A
K
IM
A
N
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
B
O
L
. O
R
D
Y
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. P
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
. O
R
D
Y
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
.P
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
APAKOVA PR.
1
-Y
D
O
B
R
Y
N
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KAZACHY PER.
2
- Y
K
A
Z
A
C
H
Y
P
E
R
.
K
A
Z
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KHVOSTOV PER.
KOROVY VAL UL.
LE
N
IN
S
K
Y
P
R
.
L
Y
U
S
IN
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
R
O
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
Y
T
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
POGORELSKY PER.
1-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
ZHITNAYA UL.
NOVORYAZANSKAYAUL.
VERKHNYAYA SYROMYATNICHESKAYA UL.
NIKOLOYAM
SKAYA UL.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
TETERINSKY PER.
A
K
A
D
E
M
IK
A
S
A
K
H
A
R
O
V
A
P
R
.
BOL. BALKANSKY PER.
BOL. KHARITONYEVSKY PER.
B
O
L
. K
O
Z
L
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. SPASSKAYA UL.
D
O
K
U
C
H
A
E
V
P
E
R
.
FU
R
M
A
N
N
Y P
E
R
.
G
U
S
Y
A
T
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
K
A
L
A
N
C
H
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KOMSOMOLSKAYAPL.
K
R
A
S
N
O
P
R
U
D
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
S
H
K
O
V
A
U
L
.
NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL.
SA
D
O
V
A
YA
-SPA
SSKA
YA
U
L.
V
E
R
K
H
N
Y
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
S
E
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
C
H
IS
T
O
P
R
U
D
N
Y
B
U
L
.
KAZAKO
V
A U
L.
POKROVKA UL.
P
O
K
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
Z
H
U
K
O
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
C
H
A
P
LY
G
IN
A
U
L
.
Z
E
M
L
Y
A
N
O
Y
V
A
L
U
L
.
A
R
M
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BERNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
BOL. KAZENNY PER.
DU
RASO
VSKY PER.
KAZARM
EN
Y PER. K
O
L
P
A
C
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
S
M
O
D
A
M
IA
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
L
Y
A
L
IN
P
E
R
.
PODKOLOKOLNY PER.
P
O
D
S
O
S
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
P
O
K
R
O
V
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
P
E
V
C
H
E
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
SEREBRYANICHESKAYA NAB.
S
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
R
O
S
A
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
S
T
Y
IN
S
K
Y
P
R
.
VORONTSOVO POLE Y
A
U
Z
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
P
O
T
A
P
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
T
E
L
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
V
E
R
K
H
N
Y
A
Y
A
R
A
D
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L.
B
O
L
. T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
BOL. TATARSKY PER.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
2
-Y
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
OZERKOVSKY PER.
RUNOVSKY PER.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
STARY TOLM
ACHEVSKY PER.
B
A
K
H
R
U
S
H
IN
A
U
L
.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
K
H
O
L
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
O
V
O
K
U
Z
N
E
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
T
R
O
C
H
E
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
U
B
I N
I N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
3
-Y
M
O
N
E
T
C
H
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
5-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
PAVELETSKAYAPL.
STREMYANNY PER.
VALOVAYA UL.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
S
E
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
ST
A
R
A
Y
A
B
A
SM
A
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L.
ALEXANDRA SO
LZHENITSINA UL.
M
A
R
K
S
IS
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
N
IS
L
A
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
V
O
R
O
N
T
S
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
3-Y KRU
TITSKY PER.
K
R
U
T
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
N
O
V
O
S
P
A
S
S
K
Y
P
R
.
B
O
B
RO
V
PER.
GROKHOLSKY PER.
M
Y
A
S
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
L
U
B
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
MAROSEYKA UL.
MOSKVORETSKAYA NAB.
RAUSHSKAYA NAB.
K
R
IV
O
K
O
L
E
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
SADOVNICHESKAYA UL.
KLIMENTOVSKY PER.
OVCHINNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
E
R
P
U
K
H
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. KISELNY PER.
BO
L. SU
KHAREVKAYA PL.
BOL. SUKHAREVSKY PER.
BOL. GOLOVIN PER.
KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER.
PUSHKAREV PER.
LUKOV PER. ASHCHEULOV PER.
SELIVERSTOV PER.
PROSVIRIN PER.
DAEV PER.
SRETENSKY TUPIK
D
E
L
E
G
A
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
DUROVA UL.
G
IL
Y
A
R
O
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
K
O
P
T
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
. (
1
Y
)
K
O
S
T
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
ZITSK
Y P
E
R
.
LAVRSKY PER.
MAL. KARETNY PER.
MAL. SUKHAREVSKAYA PL.
O
L
Y
M
P
IY
S
K
Y
P
R
.
PETROVSKY BUL.
P
E
TR
O
V
SK
Y P
E
R
.
POSLEDNY PER.
P
R
O
S
P
E
K
T
M
IR
A
SADOVAYA-KARETNAYA UL.
S
A
M
O
T
Y
O
C
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
H
C
H
E
P
K
IN
A
U
L
.
S
R
E
T
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
SRETENSKY BUL.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
S
V
E
T
N
O
Y
B
U
L
.
VARSONOFYEVSKY PER.
B
O
L. P
A
LA
SH
E
V
S
K
Y
PE
R
.
M
A
L. KOZIKHINSKY P
E
R
.
B
O
G
O
Y
A
V
L
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BRODNIKOV PER.
MANEZHNAYA
PL.
G
O
L
I K
O
V
S
K
Y

PER.
V
A
S
N
E
T
S
O
V
A
PER.
ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL.
KHO
KHLO
VSKY
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
A
B
O
R
O
D
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KRASN
AYA PRESN
YA U
L.
K
U
TU
ZO
V
SK
Y
P
R
.
T
A
R
A
S
A
S
H
E
V
C
H
E
N
K
O
N
A
B
.
BOL. DOROGOM
ILOVSKAYA UL.
BURDENKO UL.
KIEVSKAYA UL.
P
L
Y
U
S
H
C
H
IK
H
A
U
L
.
SMOLENSKAYA UL.
KRASNOPRESNENSKA
YA
N
A
B
.
2-YA BORODINS
KAYA UL.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
LEN
IN
G
RA
D
SKY PR.
K
R
A
S
N
O
P
R
O
L
E
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
U
SH
K
IN
SK
A
Y
A
P
L.
SADOVAYA-TRIUM
FALNAYA UL.
STRA
STN
O
Y BU
L.
B
O
L
. K
IS
L
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
L
E
O
N
T
IE
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
VOZDVIZHENKA UL.
V
O
Z
N
E
S
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
ZN
AM
EN
KA U
L.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
1
9
0
5
G
O
D
A
U
L
.
BOL. TISHINSKY PER.
E
R
M
O
L
A
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
G
O
R
O
KHOVSKY PER.
2-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
SREDNY TISHINSKY PER.
U
L
. Y
U
L
IU
S
A
F
U
C
H
IK
A
U
L
. G
A
S
H
E
K
A
ORUZHEINY PER.
M
A
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
R
Y
U
S
O
V
P
E
R
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
M
A
L
. G
N
E
Z
D
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
KAM
ERG
ERSKY PER.
G
EO
R
G
IEV
SK
Y P
ER
.
V
E
T
O
S
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. C
H
E
R
K
A
S
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
USPENSKY PER.
1-Y KOLOBOVSKY PER
RAKHMANOVSKY PER.
BOL. SERGIEVSKY PER.
PER. PECHATNIKOV
SREDNY KARETNY PER.
TROITSKAYA UL.
M
E
S
H
C
H
A
N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
MAL. GOLOVIN PER.
RYBNIKOV PER.
U
L
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
YA
SN
ITSK
A
Y U
L.
M
A
L
. K
H
A
R
IT
O
N
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
LT
S
O
PER. O
G
O
RO
D
N
AYA
SLO
BO
D
A
U
L
. M
A
L
. L
U
B
Y
A
N
K
A
S
V
E
R
C
H
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Z
L
A
T
O
U
S
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
IT
A
Y
G
O
R
O
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
O
R
L
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
L
IK
H
O
V
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.
U
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
R
Y
A
D
1-Y SAMOTECHNY PER.
4
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
YA
-YA
M
S
K
A
YA
U
L.
UL. KLIMASHKINA
RASTORGUEV PER.
V
O
L
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
O
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
L. ZA
M
O
R
E
N
O
V
A
B
O
L. PR
ED
TECH
EN
SKY PER
.
KARM
AN
ITSKY PER.
RUZHEINY PER.
SE
C
H
E
N
O
V
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
U
L
. B
O
L
. P
O
LY
A
N
K
A
UL. ZATSEPA
VISH
N
YAKO
VSKY PER.
SH
LYU
ZO
VAYA
N
A
B.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
U
L
.
Y
A
U
Z
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KO
M
ISSARIATSKY PER.
NOVOSPASSKY PER.
U
L. G
V
O
Z
D
E
V
A
N
A
R
O
D
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
5-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
TAGANSKAYA UL.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
LT
S
O
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
L
T
S
O
U
L
. B
O
L
S
H
IE
K
A
M
E
N
S
H
C
H
IK
I
KOZHEVNICHESKAYA UL.
1
-Y
Z
A
C
H
A
T
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
F
R
U
N
Z
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
YA
N
A
B
.
ROCHDELSKAYA UL.
S
TA
R
O
P
IM
E
N
O
VSKY PER.
D
E
G
T
YA
RNY PER.
N
A
S
TA
SY
IN
SKY PER.
1-Y VOLKONSKY PER.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
A
S
M
A
N
N
Y PER
.
A
R
K
H
A
N
G
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
O
G
L
IN
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
SKO
R
N
YA
ZH
N
Y
P
E
R
.
PROTOCHNY PER.
BOL. TOLMACHEVSKY PER.
M
A
L
. V
L
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
N
EO
PA
LIM
O
VSKY PER.
2-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
2
8
2
3
4
0
2
0
1
4
8
1
6
1
2
6
6
12
26
2
16
20
28
31
8
2
7
1
1
0
2
0
1
4
4
4
23 21
25
48
38
28
39
30
28
2
8
2
7
1
9
1
3
1
3
1
3
9
2
2
10
4
22
22
15
9
8
4
10
9
22 4
10
1 1
5
1
2 1
1
3
4
1
2
1
5
1
2
8
1
5
1
3
1
1
4
9
1
1
1
5
3
1
3
1
0
4
7
2
1
2
9
1
1
4
4
0
4
9
3
7
2
7
2
5
1
7
4
8
5
3
1
1
6
3
5 3
8
2
8
1
8
1
2 3
4
8
7
2
6
-8
2
5
10-12
22
11
1
5
3
3
2
9
4
1
2
4
1
6
2
5
1
0
17 11
2
2
3 2
2
32
36
22
4
7
7
7
19
1
9
9
1
9
2
2
22
3
6
8
1
2
3
3
2
0
3
9
2
3
2
4
6
1
9
2
2
52
43
9
4
4
7
7
14
8
1
1
5
5
10
4
1
6
1
0
32
5
4
9
6
3
2
2
7
5
4
36
6
5
18 10
10 14
10
8
1
4
1
3
2
9
6
1
2
2
2
1
1
8
9
2
0
3
5
4
4
1
4
2
1
2
9
2
0
3
0 3
9
4
2
1
7
1
9
1
4 1
7
3
1
3
0
3
7
7
5
7
1
7
1
3
8
3
4
3
7
4
7
2
4
3
7
6
2
5 2
0 2
2
2
4
2
83
54
6
3
0
2
7
3
5
1
5
4
2
4
5
3
3
1
1
1
2
8
9
8
6
5
4
15
12
23
25
13
11
20
16
18
11
10
1
5
10
19
35
43
30
10 5
5
2
5
2
8
3
6
5
4
6
7
7
1
4
8
4
9
6
5
3
4
4
1
5
3
6
3
5
8
5
6
3
3
1
3
6
2
2
2
6
4
2
4 16
14
4
3 5
7
3
2
6
16
4
16
19
10
4
6
4
7
2
5
4
4
1
2
4
6
6
3
2
3
9
4
3
2
9
2
4
2
5
5
5
6
6
4
2
8
2
3
9
13
16
9
1
1
2
2
21
19
13
8
4
5
1
8
1
2
5
9
1
5
10
18
30
3
3
36
10
5
6
16
13
27
26
18
13
6
3
1
8
1
4
15
3
13
14 24
37
16
24
1
2
8
44
2
6
4
2
12
4
2
7
1
8
3
5
5 15
10
1
0
2
8
3
8
9
1
7
1
9
7
1
3
3
3
3
1
1
3
3
2
2
9
2
1
1
0
5
2
8
1
4
2
6
2
5
2
8
2
4
24
26
1
6
12
2
3
2
6
6
5
5
5
5
7
5
3
3
3
2
1
2
3
3
3
9
9
5
5
5
5
9
5
4
5
15
1
5
1
4
27
5
9
15
5
5
5
7
3
5
3
5
3
2
4
0
4
1
4
7
13
5
6
4
2
13
2
8
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
11
13
8
1
8
1
1
1
3
6
6
1
2
12
12
1
4
1
0
1
0
13
7
2
4
2
4
1
3
2
1
0
2
8
8
6
6
6
6
10
4
4
4
4
8
6
6
2
3
6
4
4
6
6
1
2 7
4
4
4
8
4
4
12
24
15
11
1
1
1
4
8
3
3
7
3
2
4
8
10
1
0
1
4
1
0
4
1
8
1
1 3
3
17
7
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
8
3
3
2
4
2
2
2
8
4
6
5
0
2
16
3
33
11
2
14
1
5
3
1
2
1
7
2
5
2
3
2
6
3
5
3
3
3
3
9
6
5
2
2
5
7
1
3 1
2 8
1
4
1
5 4
7
17
16
18
1
3
2
9
6
7
9
1
9
9
8
6
6
1
5
7
1
8
2
2
4
1
4
24
9
3
7
4
3
13
4
9 1
0
8
3
6
3
0
1
4
1
1
6
12
18
11
32
44
39
5
3
6
9
13
18
3
2
2
5
0
5
2
7
2
7
3
1
3
6
5
2
9 19
11
4
3
1
0
8
2
20
16 1
9
1
1
2
7
1
9
2
8
2
0
9
9
1
7
2
3
6
4
4
12
12
4
10
43 1
20 12 24
3
2 8
12
9
5
5
2
0
3
3
3
9
9
3
3
3
3
12
1
3
13
48
4
6
3
5
2
3
PLOSHCHAD
REVOLUTSII
OKHOTNY
RYAD
ALEXANDROVSKY
SAD
BIBLIOTEKA
IMENI LENINA
BOROVITSKAYA
ARBATSKAYA
KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA
ULITSA
1905 GODA
BARRIKADNAYA
KROPOTKINSKAYA
POLYANKA
TRETYAKOVSKAYA
NOVOKUZNETSKAYA
TAGANSKAYA MARKSISTSKAYA
MARKSISTSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA DOBRYNINSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PARK KULTURY
SMOLENSKAYA
KIEVSKAYA
TEATRALNAYA
LUBYANKA
KITAY GOROD
CHKALOVSKAYA
KURSKAYA
KOMSOMOLSKAYA
KRASNYE
VOROTA
SUKHAREVSKAYA
TURGENEVSKAYA
SRETENSKY
BULVAR
CHISTYE PRUDY
PROSPEKT MIRA
PUSHKINSKAYA
TVERSKAYA
CHEKHOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
NOVOSLOBODSKAYA
TSVETNOY
BULVAR
TRUBNAYA
KITAY GOROD
LUBYANKA
KUZNETSKY MOST
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
LENINGRADSKY
VOKZAL
YAROSLAVSKY
VOKZAL
KAZANSKY VOKZAL
KURSKIY
VOKZAL
PAVELETSKY
VOKZAL
KIEVSKY
VOKZAL
BELORUSSKY VOKZAL
GORKY
PARK
PIER
UKRAINA
HOTEL
PIER
NOVOARBATSKY
MOST
BORODINSKY
MOST
KRYMSKY
MOST
PATRIARSHY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KAMENNY
MOST
MALY
KAMENNY
MOST
LUZHKOV
MOST
BOLSHOY
ZAMOSKVORETSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
USTYINSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KRASNOKHOLMSKY
MOST
NOVOSPASSKY
MOST
1
2
3
4
5
A B C D E
B
B
3 3
2 2
1
1
C
C
D
D
E
E
62 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 63 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Maps Maps
M
A
L
. G
R
U
Z
I N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
V
A
L
U
L
.
STOLYARNY PER.
A
LE
X
A
N
D
R
A
N
E
V
SK
O
G
O
U
L.
B
O
L
. G
R
U
Z
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. K
O
Z
IK
H
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. S
A
D
O
V
A
Y
A
U
L
.
1
-YA
B
R
E
S
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2
-YA
B
R
E
S
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
C
H
A
Y
A
N
O
V
A
U
L
.
D
O
L
G
O
R
U
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
FA
D
E
E
V
A
U
L.
K
R
A
S
IN
A
U
L
.
K
R
A
S
IN
A
U
L
.
L
E
S
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
. D
M
IT
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
M
IU
S
S
K
A
Y
A
P
L
.
S
Y
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
TRIUMFALNAYAPL.
T
R
Y
O
K
H
P
R
U
D
N
Y
P
E
R
.
1
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L.
3
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
Y
A
-Y
A
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
V
A
S
IL
Y
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
Z
O
O
L
O
G
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. B
R
O
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
.P
A
T
R
IA
R
S
H
Y
P
E
R
.
M
A
L
. B
R
O
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L
. S
A
D
O
V
A
Y
A
-
K
U
D
R
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
P
IR
ID
O
N
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
A
R
B
A
T U
L.
BOL. MOLCHANOVKA UL.
F
IL
IP
P
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
GRANATNY PER.
K
A
L
A
S
H
N
Y
P
E
R
. KH
LEBN
Y PER.
KOMPOZITORSKAYA UL.
MAL. NIKITSKAYA UL.
BOL. NIKITSKAYA UL.
BO
L. N
IKITSKAYA U
L.
M
A
L
. Z
N
A
M
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
E
R
Z
L
Y
A
K
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
IK
IT
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
N
O
V
IN
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
NOVY ARBAT UL.
PL. NIKITSKIE VOROTA P
O
V
A
R
SK
A
Y
A
U
L.
SKATERTN
Y PER.
S
P
IR
ID
O
N
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
T
R
U
B
N
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
V
S
P
O
L
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. A
F
A
N
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. V
L
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Z
N
A
M
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
E
N
E
Z
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
P
L
O
T
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
SIVTSEV VRAZHEK PER.
S
T
A
R
O
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
E
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L. LEV
SH
IN
SK
Y PER
.
B
U
T
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
CHISTY PER.
E
R
O
P
K
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
GAGARINSKY PER.
GLAZOVSKY PER.
G
O
G
O
L
E
V
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
K
H
IL
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
K
O
R
O
B
E
Y
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
K
R
O
P
O
T
K
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
U
R
S
O
V
O
Y
P
E
R
.
MOLOCHNY PER.
2
-Y O
B
Y
D
E
N
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
O
S
T
O
Z
H
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
P
R
E
C
H
IST
E
N
K
A
U
L.
P
O
M
E
R
A
N
TSE
V
P
E
R
.
P
O
Z
H
A
R
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
PRECHISTENSKY PER.
S
M
O
L
E
N
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
SO
YM
O
N
O
V
SK
Y P
R
O
EZD
K
R
Y
M
S
K
A
YA
N
A
B
.
N
O
V
O
K
R
Y
M
S
K
Y
P
R
.
KRYM
SKY PRO
EZD
P
U
S
H
K
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
KRYM
SKY V
AL.
B
O
L
. D
M
IT
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. L
U
B
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
IL
Y
U
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
E
G
L
IN
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
E
T
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
R
O
Z
H
D
E
S
T
V
E
N
K
A
U
L
. STO
LESHN
IKO
V PER.
B
A
L
C
H
U
G
U
L
.
G
A
Z
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
ILIN
KA U
L.
IP
A
T
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
R
A
S
N
A
Y
A
P
L
. (R
E
D
S
Q
U
A
R
E
)
KREMLEVSKAYA NAB.
KUZNETSKY MOST UL.
M
A
N
E
Z
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
O
H
O
V
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
IK
IT
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
IK
O
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
IK
O
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
A
Y
A
P
L
.
O
K
H
O
T
N
Y
R
Y
A
D
U
L
.
PUSHECHNAYA UL.
R
O
M
A
N
O
V
P
E
R
.
R
Y
B
N
Y
P
E
R
.
S
T
A
R
A
Y
A
P
L
.
TEATRALNY PROEZD
VARVARKAUL.
VASILYEVSKY
SPUSKPL.
SOFIYSKAYA NAB.
V
O
L
H
O
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
E
R
S
E
N
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
L
. S
T
A
R
O
M
O
N
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Y
A
K
IM
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
LO
TN
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
L
O
T
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
B
O
LO
T
N
A
Y
A
P
L.
1
-Y
G
O
L
U
T
V
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
KA
D
A
SH
EV
SKA
YA
N
A
B.
1
-Y
K
A
D
A
S
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
L
A
V
R
U
S
H
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
A
L
. Y
A
K
IM
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
PYZHEVSKY PER.
S
T
A
R
O
M
O
N
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
Y
A
K
IM
A
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
Y
A
K
IM
A
N
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
B
O
L
. O
R
D
Y
N
K
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. P
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
. O
R
D
Y
N
K
A
U
L
.
M
A
L
.P
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
APAKOVA PR.
1
-Y
D
O
B
R
Y
N
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KAZACHY PER.
2
- Y
K
A
Z
A
C
H
Y
P
E
R
.
K
A
Z
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KHVOSTOV PER.
KOROVY VAL UL.
LE
N
IN
S
K
Y
P
R
.
L
Y
U
S
IN
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
R
O
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
Y
T
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
POGORELSKY PER.
1-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
ZHITNAYA UL.
NOVORYAZANSKAYAUL.
VERKHNYAYA SYROMYATNICHESKAYA UL.
NIKOLOYAM
SKAYA UL.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
TETERINSKY PER.
A
K
A
D
E
M
IK
A
S
A
K
H
A
R
O
V
A
P
R
.
BOL. BALKANSKY PER.
BOL. KHARITONYEVSKY PER.
B
O
L
. K
O
Z
L
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. SPASSKAYA UL.
D
O
K
U
C
H
A
E
V
P
E
R
.
FU
R
M
A
N
N
Y P
E
R
.
G
U
S
Y
A
T
N
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
K
A
L
A
N
C
H
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KOMSOMOLSKAYAPL.
K
R
A
S
N
O
P
R
U
D
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
M
A
S
H
K
O
V
A
U
L
.
NOVAYA BASMANNAYA UL.
SA
D
O
V
A
YA
-SPA
SSKA
YA
U
L.
V
E
R
K
H
N
Y
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
S
E
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
C
H
IS
T
O
P
R
U
D
N
Y
B
U
L
.
KAZAKO
V
A U
L.
POKROVKA UL.
P
O
K
R
O
V
K
A
U
L
.
Z
H
U
K
O
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
C
H
A
P
LY
G
IN
A
U
L
.
Z
E
M
L
Y
A
N
O
Y
V
A
L
U
L
.
A
R
M
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BERNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
BOL. KAZENNY PER.
DU
RASO
VSKY PER.
KAZARM
EN
Y PER. K
O
L
P
A
C
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
S
M
O
D
A
M
IA
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
L
Y
A
L
IN
P
E
R
.
PODKOLOKOLNY PER.
P
O
D
S
O
S
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
P
O
K
R
O
V
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
P
E
V
C
H
E
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
SEREBRYANICHESKAYA NAB.
S
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
R
O
S
A
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
S
T
Y
IN
S
K
Y
P
R
.
VORONTSOVO POLE Y
A
U
Z
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
P
O
T
A
P
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
T
E
L
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
V
E
R
K
H
N
Y
A
Y
A
R
A
D
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L.
B
O
L
. T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
BOL. TATARSKY PER.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
2
-Y
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
OZERKOVSKY PER.
RUNOVSKY PER.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
STARY TOLM
ACHEVSKY PER.
B
A
K
H
R
U
S
H
IN
A
U
L
.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
K
H
O
L
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
O
V
O
K
U
Z
N
E
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
T
R
O
C
H
E
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
U
B
I N
I N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
3
-Y
M
O
N
E
T
C
H
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
5-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
PAVELETSKAYAPL.
STREMYANNY PER.
VALOVAYA UL.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
S
E
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
ST
A
R
A
Y
A
B
A
SM
A
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L.
ALEXANDRA SO
LZHENITSINA UL.
M
A
R
K
S
IS
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
N
IS
L
A
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
V
O
R
O
N
T
S
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
3-Y KRU
TITSKY PER.
K
R
U
T
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
N
O
V
O
S
P
A
S
S
K
Y
P
R
.
B
O
B
RO
V
PER.
GROKHOLSKY PER.
M
Y
A
S
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
L
U
B
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
MAROSEYKA UL.
MOSKVORETSKAYA NAB.
RAUSHSKAYA NAB.
K
R
IV
O
K
O
L
E
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
SADOVNICHESKAYA UL.
KLIMENTOVSKY PER.
OVCHINNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
E
R
P
U
K
H
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. KISELNY PER.
BO
L. SU
KHAREVKAYA PL.
BOL. SUKHAREVSKY PER.
BOL. GOLOVIN PER.
KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER.
PUSHKAREV PER.
LUKOV PER. ASHCHEULOV PER.
SELIVERSTOV PER.
PROSVIRIN PER.
DAEV PER.
SRETENSKY TUPIK
D
E
L
E
G
A
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
DUROVA UL.
G
IL
Y
A
R
O
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
K
O
P
T
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
. (
1
Y
)
K
O
S
T
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
ZITSK
Y P
E
R
.
LAVRSKY PER.
MAL. KARETNY PER.
MAL. SUKHAREVSKAYA PL.
O
L
Y
M
P
IY
S
K
Y
P
R
.
PETROVSKY BUL.
P
E
TR
O
V
SK
Y P
E
R
.
POSLEDNY PER.
P
R
O
S
P
E
K
T
M
IR
A
SADOVAYA-KARETNAYA UL.
S
A
M
O
T
Y
O
C
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
H
C
H
E
P
K
IN
A
U
L
.
S
R
E
T
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
SRETENSKY BUL.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
S
V
E
T
N
O
Y
B
U
L
.
VARSONOFYEVSKY PER.
B
O
L. P
A
LA
SH
E
V
S
K
Y
PE
R
.
M
A
L. KOZIKHINSKY P
E
R
.
B
O
G
O
Y
A
V
L
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BRODNIKOV PER.
MANEZHNAYA
PL.
G
O
L
I K
O
V
S
K
Y

PER.
V
A
S
N
E
T
S
O
V
A
PER.
ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL.
KHO
KHLO
VSKY
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
A
B
O
R
O
D
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KRASN
AYA PRESN
YA U
L.
K
U
TU
ZO
V
SK
Y
P
R
.
T
A
R
A
S
A
S
H
E
V
C
H
E
N
K
O
N
A
B
.
BOL. DOROGOM
ILOVSKAYA UL.
BURDENKO UL.
KIEVSKAYA UL.
P
L
Y
U
S
H
C
H
IK
H
A
U
L
.
SMOLENSKAYA UL.
KRASNOPRESNENSKA
YA
N
A
B
.
2-YA BORODINS
KAYA UL.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
LEN
IN
G
RA
D
SKY PR.
K
R
A
S
N
O
P
R
O
L
E
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
U
SH
K
IN
SK
A
Y
A
P
L.
SADOVAYA-TRIUM
FALNAYA UL.
STRA
STN
O
Y BU
L.
B
O
L
. K
IS
L
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
L
E
O
N
T
IE
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
VOZDVIZHENKA UL.
V
O
Z
N
E
S
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
ZN
AM
EN
KA U
L.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
1
9
0
5
G
O
D
A
U
L
.
BOL. TISHINSKY PER.
E
R
M
O
L
A
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
G
O
R
O
KHOVSKY PER.
2-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
SREDNY TISHINSKY PER.
U
L
. Y
U
L
IU
S
A
F
U
C
H
IK
A
U
L
. G
A
S
H
E
K
A
ORUZHEINY PER.
M
A
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
R
Y
U
S
O
V
P
E
R
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
M
A
L
. G
N
E
Z
D
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
KAM
ERG
ERSKY PER.
G
EO
R
G
IEV
SK
Y P
ER
.
V
E
T
O
S
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. C
H
E
R
K
A
S
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
USPENSKY PER.
1-Y KOLOBOVSKY PER
RAKHMANOVSKY PER.
BOL. SERGIEVSKY PER.
PER. PECHATNIKOV
SREDNY KARETNY PER.
TROITSKAYA UL.
M
E
S
H
C
H
A
N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
MAL. GOLOVIN PER.
RYBNIKOV PER.
U
L
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
YA
SN
ITSK
A
Y U
L.
M
A
L
. K
H
A
R
IT
O
N
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
LT
S
O
PER. O
G
O
RO
D
N
AYA
SLO
BO
D
A
U
L
. M
A
L
. L
U
B
Y
A
N
K
A
S
V
E
R
C
H
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Z
L
A
T
O
U
S
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
IT
A
Y
G
O
R
O
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
O
R
L
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
L
IK
H
O
V
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.
U
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
R
Y
A
D
1-Y SAMOTECHNY PER.
4
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
YA
-YA
M
S
K
A
YA
U
L.
UL. KLIMASHKINA
RASTORGUEV PER.
V
O
L
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
O
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
L. ZA
M
O
R
E
N
O
V
A
B
O
L. PR
ED
TECH
EN
SKY PER
.
KARM
AN
ITSKY PER.
RUZHEINY PER.
SE
C
H
E
N
O
V
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
U
L
. B
O
L
. P
O
LY
A
N
K
A
UL. ZATSEPA
VISH
N
YAKO
VSKY PER.
SH
LYU
ZO
VAYA
N
A
B.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
U
L
.
Y
A
U
Z
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KO
M
ISSARIATSKY PER.
NOVOSPASSKY PER.
U
L. G
V
O
Z
D
E
V
A
N
A
R
O
D
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
5-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
TAGANSKAYA UL.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
LT
S
O
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
L
T
S
O
U
L
. B
O
L
S
H
IE
K
A
M
E
N
S
H
C
H
IK
I
KOZHEVNICHESKAYA UL.
1
-Y
Z
A
C
H
A
T
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
F
R
U
N
Z
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
YA
N
A
B
.
ROCHDELSKAYA UL.
S
TA
R
O
P
IM
E
N
O
VSKY PER.
D
E
G
T
YA
RNY PER.
N
A
S
TA
SY
IN
SKY PER.
1-Y VOLKONSKY PER.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
A
S
M
A
N
N
Y PER
.
A
R
K
H
A
N
G
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
O
G
L
IN
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
SKO
R
N
YA
ZH
N
Y
P
E
R
.
PROTOCHNY PER.
BOL. TOLMACHEVSKY PER.
M
A
L
. V
L
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
N
EO
PA
LIM
O
VSKY PER.
2-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
2
8
2
3
4
0
2
0
1
4
8
1
6
1
2
6
6
12
26
2
16
20
28
31
8
2
7
1
1
0
2
0
1
4
4
4
23 21
25
48
38
28
39
30
28
2
8
2
7
1
9
1
3
1
3
1
3
9
2
2
10
4
22
22
15
9
8
4
10
9
22 4
10
1 1
5
1
2 1
1
3
4
1
2
1
5
1
2
8
1
5
1
3
1
1
4
9
1
1
1
5
3
1
3
1
0
4
7
2
1
2
9
1
1
4
4
0
4
9
3
7
2
7
2
5
1
7
4
8
5
3
1
1
6
3
5 3
8
2
8
1
8
1
2 3
4
8
7
2
6
-8
2
5
10-12
22
11
1
5
3
3
2
9
4
1
2
4
1
6
2
5
1
0
17 11
2
2
3 2
2
32
36
22
4
7
7
7
19
1
9
9
1
9
2
2
22
3
6
8
1
2
3
3
2
0
3
9
2
3
2
4
6
1
9
2
2
52
43
9
4
4
7
7
14
8
1
1
5
5
10
4
1
6
1
0
32
5
4
9
6
3
2
2
7
5
4
36
6
5
18 10
10 14
10
8
1
4
1
3
2
9
6
1
2
2
2
1
1
8
9
2
0
3
5
4
4
1
4
2
1
2
9
2
0
3
0 3
9
4
2
1
7
1
9
1
4 1
7
3
1
3
0
3
7
7
5
7
1
7
1
3
8
3
4
3
7
4
7
2
4
3
7
6
2
5 2
0 2
2
2
4
2
83
54
6
3
0
2
7
3
5
1
5
4
2
4
5
3
3
1
1
1
2
8
9
8
6
5
4
15
12
23
25
13
11
20
16
18
11
10
1
5
10
19
35
43
30
10 5
5
2
5
2
8
3
6
5
4
6
7
7
1
4
8
4
9
6
5
3
4
4
1
5
3
6
3
5
8
5
6
3
3
1
3
6
2
2
2
6
4
2
4 16
14
4
3 5
7
3
2
6
16
4
16
19
10
4
6
4
7
2
5
4
4
1
2
4
6
6
3
2
3
9
4
3
2
9
2
4
2
5
5
5
6
6
4
2
8
2
3
9
13
16
9
1
1
2
2
21
19
13
8
4
5
1
8
1
2
5
9
1
5
10
18
30
3
3
36
10
5
6
16
13
27
26
18
13
6
3
1
8
1
4
15
3
13
14 24
37
16
24
1
2
8
44
2
6
4
2
12
4
2
7
1
8
3
5
5 15
10
1
0
2
8
3
8
9
1
7
1
9
7
1
3
3
3
3
1
1
3
3
2
2
9
2
1
1
0
5
2
8
1
4
2
6
2
5
2
8
2
4
24
26
1
6
12
2
3
2
6
6
5
5
5
5
7
5
3
3
3
2
1
2
3
3
3
9
9
5
5
5
5
9
5
4
5
15
1
5
1
4
27
5
9
15
5
5
5
7
3
5
3
5
3
2
4
0
4
1
4
7
13
5
6
4
2
13
2
8
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
11
13
8
1
8
1
1
1
3
6
6
1
2
12
12
1
4
1
0
1
0
13
7
2
4
2
4
1
3
2
1
0
2
8
8
6
6
6
6
10
4
4
4
4
8
6
6
2
3
6
4
4
6
6
1
2 7
4
4
4
8
4
4
12
24
15
11
1
1
1
4
8
3
3
7
3
2
4
8
10
1
0
1
4
1
0
4
1
8
1
1 3
3
17
7
2
2
2
2
2
2
1
8
3
3
2
4
2
2
2
8
4
6
5
0
2
16
3
33
11
2
14
1
5
3
1
2
1
7
2
5
2
3
2
6
3
5
3
3
3
3
9
6
5
2
2
5
7
1
3 1
2 8
1
4
1
5 4
7
17
16
18
1
3
2
9
6
7
9
1
9
9
8
6
6
1
5
7
1
8
2
2
4
1
4
24
9
3
7
4
3
13
4
9 1
0
8
3
6
3
0
1
4
1
1
6
12
18
11
32
44
39
5
3
6
9
13
18
3
2
2
5
0
5
2
7
2
7
3
1
3
6
5
2
9 19
11
4
3
1
0
8
2
20
16 1
9
1
1
2
7
1
9
2
8
2
0
9
9
1
7
2
3
6
4
4
12
12
4
10
43 1
20 12 24
3
2 8
12
9
5
5
2
0
3
3
3
9
9
3
3
3
3
12
1
3
13
48
4
6
3
5
2
3
PLOSHCHAD
REVOLUTSII
OKHOTNY
RYAD
ALEXANDROVSKY
SAD
BIBLIOTEKA
IMENI LENINA
BOROVITSKAYA
ARBATSKAYA
KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA
ULITSA
1905 GODA
BARRIKADNAYA
KROPOTKINSKAYA
POLYANKA
TRETYAKOVSKAYA
NOVOKUZNETSKAYA
TAGANSKAYA MARKSISTSKAYA
MARKSISTSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA DOBRYNINSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PARK KULTURY
SMOLENSKAYA
KIEVSKAYA
TEATRALNAYA
LUBYANKA
KITAY GOROD
CHKALOVSKAYA
KURSKAYA
KOMSOMOLSKAYA
KRASNYE
VOROTA
SUKHAREVSKAYA
TURGENEVSKAYA
SRETENSKY
BULVAR
CHISTYE PRUDY
PROSPEKT MIRA
PUSHKINSKAYA
TVERSKAYA
CHEKHOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
NOVOSLOBODSKAYA
TSVETNOY
BULVAR
TRUBNAYA
KITAY GOROD
LUBYANKA
KUZNETSKY MOST
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
LENINGRADSKY
VOKZAL
YAROSLAVSKY
VOKZAL
KAZANSKY VOKZAL
KURSKIY
VOKZAL
PAVELETSKY
VOKZAL
KIEVSKY
VOKZAL
BELORUSSKY VOKZAL
GORKY
PARK
PIER
UKRAINA
HOTEL
PIER
NOVOARBATSKY
MOST
BORODINSKY
MOST
KRYMSKY
MOST
PATRIARSHY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KAMENNY
MOST
MALY
KAMENNY
MOST
LUZHKOV
MOST
BOLSHOY
ZAMOSKVORETSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
USTYINSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KRASNOKHOLMSKY
MOST
NOVOSPASSKY
MOST
1
2
3
4
5
A B C D E
B
B
5 5
4 4
3
3
C
C
D
D
E
E
64 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com June - July 2014 65 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Street register
RUSSIAN MUSEUM
QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admis-
sion 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
ST. ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL
QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second
Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business
and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few
days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window
on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for
a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and
beauty.
Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside
panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical ar-
chitecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than
enough to enjoy at any time of year.
SIGHTSEEING
ALEKSANDER NEVSKY MONASTERY
QF-3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra
Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru.
Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
CHURCH OF THE SAVIOUR ON THE SPILT
BLOOD
QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
CRUISER AVRORA
QE-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 230 84 40. Open 11:00 - 17:15. Closed Mon, Fri. Admis-
sion 50 - 300Rbl.
KAZAN CATHEDRAL
QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314
46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily
services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
KUNSTKAMERA
QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admis-
sion 50 - 250Rbl.
PETER AND PAUL FORTRESS
QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The for-
tress is open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free.
All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
St. Petersburg
LUXURY TRAINS
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private
train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Peters-
burg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel
experience. After being shown to your cabin you will
find your beds have already been made up with real
duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages
are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during
the trip you experience some problems you can call the
train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they
will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow
truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.
Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomol-
skaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00.
For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online
at www.megapolis-te.ru
1905 Goda ul. A-1/2 Golutvinsky per. (1y) C-4 Maronovsky per. C-5 Sadovnicheskaya ul. D-3/4
Akademika Sakharova pr. D-1/2 Goncharnaya nab. E-4 Maroseyka ul. D-2/3 Sadovnichesky proezd D-3
Alexandra Nevskogo ul. А/B-1 Goncharnaya ul. E-4 Mashkova ul. E-2 Samotyochnaya ul. C-1
Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. E-4 Goncharny per. (2y) E-4 Merzlyakovsky per. B-3 Serebryanicheskaya nab. E-3
Apakova pr. C-4 Gorokhovsky per. E-2 Milyutinsky per. D-2 Shchepkina ul. D-1
Arbat ul. B-3 Granatny per. B-2 Miusskaya pl. B-1 Sivtsev Vrazhek per. B-3
Armyansky per. D-2 Grokholsky per. D-1 Mohovaya ul. C-3 Skatertny per. B-2/3
Bakhrushina ul. D-5 Gusyatnikov per. D-2 Molochny per. B-4 Smolensky bul. A-4
Balchug ul. D-3/4 Ilinka ul. C-3 Monetchikovsky per. (2y) D-5 Smolenskaya ul. A-4
Bernikovskaya nab. E-3 Ipatyevsky per. D-3 Monetchikovsky per. (3y) D-5 Sofiyskaya nab. C-3
Bersenevskaya nab. C-4 Kadashevskaya nab. C-4 Monetchikovsky per. (5y) D-5 Soymonovsky proezd B-4
Bobrov per. D-2 Kadashevsky per. (1y) C-4 Monetchikovsky per. (6y) D-5 Solyanka ul. D-3
Bogoyavlensky per. C/D-3 Kalanchevskaya ul. E-1 Moskvoretskaya nab. D-3 Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y) C-5
Bol. Afanasyevsky per. B-3/4 Kalashny per. B-3 Myasnitskaya ul. D-2 Spiridonovka ul. B-2
Bol. Balkansky per. D-1 Kazachy per. (1y) C-5 Mytnaya ul. C-5 Spiridonyevsky per. B-2
Bol. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Kazachy per. (2y) C-5 Neglinnaya ul. C-2 Sretenka ul. D-1
Bol. Dmitrovka ul. C-2 Kazakova ul. E-2 Nikitsky bul. B-3 Sretensky bul. C-1
Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. A-4 Kazansky per. C-5 Nikitsky per. C-2/3 Stanislavskogo ul. C-2
Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. A-1/2 Kazarmeny per. E-3 Nikoloyamskaya ul. E-3/4 Staraya pl. C-3
Bol. Karetny per. C-1 Khilkov per. B-4 Nikolskaya ul. C-2/3 Starokonyushenny per. B-3/4
Bol. Kazenny per. E-2 Khlebny per. B-3 Nikolsky per. D-3 Staromonetny per. C-4
Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. E-2 Khokhlovsky per. D/E-3 N. Krasnokholmskaya ul. E-4/5 Starosadsky per. D-2/3
Bol. Kiselny per. C/D-2 Khvostov per. (1y) C-5 N. Krasnoselskaya ul. E-1 Stary Tolmachevsky per. D-4
Bol. Kislovsky per. C-3 Kievskaya ul. A-4 Novaya Basmannaya ul. E-1 Stoleshnikov per. C-2
Bol. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Klimentovsky per. D-4 Novaya pl. D-2 Stolyarny per. A-2
Bol. Kozlovsky per. E-2 Kolpachny per. D-2/3 Novinsky bul. A-2/3 Strastnoy bul. C-1/2
Bol. Levshinsky per. B-4 Kompozitorskaya ul. A/B-3 Novokrymsky pr. B-5 Sushchevskaya ul. B-1
Bol. Lubyanka ul. D-2 Komsomolskaya pl. E-1 Novokuznetskaya ul. D-4/5 Sytinsky per. B-2
Bol. Molchanovka ul. B-3 Komsomolsky pr. F-6 Novokuznetsky per. (1y) D-5 Tarasa Shevchenko nab. A-3
Bol. Nikitskaya ul. B/C-3 Konyushkovskaya ul. A-2/3 Novokuznetsky per. (2y) D-5 Tatarskaya ul. D-5
Bol. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Koptelsky per. (1y) D-1 Novoryazanskaya ul. E-1 Teatralny proezd C-2
Bol. Palashevsky per. B-2 Korobeynikov per. B-4 Novy Arbat ul. A/B-3 Teterinsky per. E-4
Bol. Patriarshy per. B-2 Korovy Val ul. C-5 Obydensky per. (2y) B-4 Triumfalnaya pl. B-1
Bol. Polyanka ul. C-4/5 Kosmodamianskaya nab. D/E-4 Okhotny ryad ul. C-2/3 Trubnaya ul. C-1
Bol. Sadovaya ul. B-1/2 Kostyansky per. D-1 Olimpiysky pr. C-1 Trubnikovsky per. A/B-3
Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. C/D-5 Kotelnicheskaya nab. D/E-4 Ostozhenka ul. B-4/5 Tryokhprudny per. B-2
Bol. Spasskaya ul. E-1 Kotelnichesky per. (1y) D-4 Ovchinnikovskaya nab. D-4 Tsvetnoy bul. C-1
Bol. Staromonetny per. C-4 Kozitsky per. C-2 Ozerkovskaya nab. D-4 Tverskaya ul. B-1/2
Bol. Strochenovsky per. D-5 Krasina ul. A/B-1, B-2 Ozerkovsky per. D-4 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. A/B-1
Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. D-1 Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) C-3 Paveletskaya pl. D-5 Tverskoy bul. B -2
Bol. Sukharevsky per. D-1 Krasnaya presnya ul. A-2 Petrovka ul. C-2 Usacheva ul. F-6
Bol. Tatarskaya ul. D-4/5 Krasnopresnenskaya nab. A-3 Petrovsky bul. C-1/2 Ustyinsky pr. D-3/4
Bol. Tatarsky per. D-5 Krasnoproletarskaya ul. B-1 Petrovsky per. C-2 Valovaya ul. D-5
Bol. Tishinsky per. A-1 Krasnoprudnaya ul. E-1 Pyzhevsky per. C-4 Varsonofyevsky per. C/D-2
Bol. Vlasyevsky per. B-4 Kremlevskaya nab. C-3 Pl. Nikitskie Vorota B-2 Varvarka ul. C-3
Bol. Yakimanka ul. C-5 Krivokolenny per. D-2 Plotnikov per. B-3 Vasilyevsky spusk pl. D-3
Bol. Znamensky per. B-3/4 Kropotkinsky per. B-4 Plyushchikha ul. A-4 Vasilyevskaya ul. A/B-1
Bolotnaya nab. C-4 Krutitsky per. (3y) E-5 Podkolokolny per. E-3 Vasnetsova per. C-1
Bolotnaya pl. C-4 Krutitskaya nab. E-5 Podsosensky per. E-3 V. Radishchevskaya ul. E-4
Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) A-3/4 Krymskay nab. B-5 Pogorelsky per. C-5 V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul. E-3
Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) A-3 Krymsky proezd B-5 Pokrovka ul. D/E-2 Volhonka ul. C-3/4
Brestskaya ul. (1ya) A/B-1 Krymsky Val. B/C-5 Pokrovsky bul. E-3 Vorontsovo pole E-3
Brestskaya ul. (2ya) A/B-1 Kursovoy per. B/C-4 Pomerantsev per. B-4 Vorontsovskaya ul. E-4/5
Brodnikov per. C-4/5 Kutuzovsky pr. A-3 Posledny per. D-1 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-3
Butikovsky per. B-4 Kuznetsky most ul. C/D-2 Potapovsky per. D-2 Voznesensky per. B-2
Chayanova ul. B-1 Lavrsky per. C-1 Povarskaya ul. B-2/3 Vspolny per. B-2
Chistoprudny bul. D/E-2 Lavrushinsky per. C-4 Pozharsky per. B-4 Yakimanskaya nab. C-4
Chisty per. B-4 Leninsky pr. F-6 Prechistenskaya nab. C-4 Yakimansky proezd C-4
Delegatskaya ul. C-1 Leontievsky per. B-2 Prechistensky per. B-4 Yauzsky bul. E-3
Dobryninsky per. (1y) C-5 Lesnaya ul. A-1 Presnensky val ul. A-1/2 Zemlyanoy Val ul. E-2/3/4
Dokuchaev per. D-1 Lubyansky proezd D-2 Prospekt Mira D-1 Zhitnaya ul. C-5
Dolgorukovskaya ul. B-1 Lyalin per. E-2/3 Pushechnaya ul. C/D-2 Zhukovskogo ul. E-2
Dubininskaya ul. D-5 Mal. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Pushkinskaya nab. B-5 Znamenka ul. B/C-3
Durasovsky per. E-3 Mal. Dmitrovka ul. B-1/2 Pushkinskaya pl. C-2 Zoologicheskaya ul. A-1/2
Durova ul. C-1 Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. A-2 Pyatnitskaya ul. D-4
Ermolaevsky per. B-2 Mal. Karetny per. C-1 Pevchesky per. D-3 Abbreviations
Eropkinsky per. B-4 Mal. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Raushskaya nab. D-3 Ul. - Ulitsa
Fadeeva ul. B-1 Mal. Nikitskaya ul. B-2 Romanov per. C-3 Per. - Pereulok
Filippovsky per. B-3 Mal. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Rozhdestvenka ul. C-2 Pr. - Prospekt
Furmanny per. E-2 Mal. Polyanka ul. C-5 Rozhdestvensky bul. C/D-2 Pl. - Ploschad
Gagarinsky per. B-4 Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. D-1 Runovsky per. D-4 Bul. - Bulvar
Gazetny per. C-2/3 Mal. Yakimanka ul. C-4 Rybny per. C-3 Nab. - Naberezhnaya
Gilyarovskogo ul. D-1 Mal. Znamensky per. B/C-3 Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. B/C-1 Bol. - Bolshaya
Glazovsky per. A/B-4 Manezhnaya pl. C-3 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. A/B-2 Mal. - Malaya
Gogolevsky bul. B-3/4 Manezhnaya ul. C-3 Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. E-1/2
Golikovsky per. D-4 Marksistskaya ul. E-4 Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul. B-1
66 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com
St. Petersburg
HOTELS
ANGLETERRE HOTEL
QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193
rooms. hhhhh
CORINTHIA HOTEL ST. PETERSBURG
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380
20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh
GRAND HOTEL EUROPE
QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
hhhhh
HOTEL ASTORIA
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
hhhhh
KEMPINSKI HOTEL MOIKA 22
QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg.
197 rooms. hhhhh
SOKOS HOTEL PALACE BRIDGE
QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms.
hhhhh
TALEON IMPERIAL HOTEL
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms.
hhhhh
W ST. PETERSBURG
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.
hhhhh
CROWNE PLAZA ST. PETERSBURG - LIGOVSKY
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195
rooms. hhhh
NOVOTEL ST. PETERSBURG CENTRE
QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.
hhhh
AZIMUT HOTEL SAINT PETERSBURG
QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms.
hhh
GETTING THERE
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day be-
tween Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them mod-
ern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 65), and
others more suitable for those on a small budget. In ad-
dition there are also many super-fast trains (called the
‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours
and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and
early evening. There are also of course frequent flight
connections between Moscow’s main airports and St.
Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.

Sponsor Documents

Or use your account on DocShare.tips

Hide

Forgot your password?

Or register your new account on DocShare.tips

Hide

Lost your password? Please enter your email address. You will receive a link to create a new password.

Back to log-in

Close