Moscow In Your Pocket June/July'15

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Moscow
June - July 2015

More than
11 years
in Russia!

inyourpocket.com

N°38

Moscow meets
summer

Relax, enjoy the sun and
soak up some local culture

Zamoskvorechye
and Pokrovka

The best walking routes
in the capital

Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

In the News

5

Arrival & Getting Around

6

Public transport

City Basics

8

Language

9

Culture & Events 10
Concerts 10
Summer festivals
12
Exhibitions 14

Features

What to see
36
Pokrovka & Zamoskvorechye 16
The Kremlin
36
110th anniversary of Metropol Hotel 20
River cruises
37
The Russian beer revolution 32
Churches
and
monasteries
38
Hidden museums 46
Modern art centres
38
Travel feature: Oryol 60
Museums 39
Russian history in short 61
Russian icons
40
Where to eat
22
Parks and gardens
42
Russian summer menu
23
Writer’s museums
43
Food from former republics
24
Gorky Park & Vorobyevy Gory
44
Summer terraces
31
Where to stay
48
Nightlife
33
Shopping
50
Dance and drink the night away
Russian souvenirs
50
Shopping centres
51
Business directory

53

Expat & Lifestyle 54
The Expat Experience
Column: Trolls and trademarks
Column: S lyogkim parom!

54
56
57

St. Petersburg

58

Visit the Northern capital

Maps & Index
City map
Street index
Metro map
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

62
66
67
June - July 2015

3

Foreword

In the News

Count yourself lucky if you happen to be in Moscow during
the summer months. Moscow winters are long and cold
therefore the whole city flourishes as soon as temperatures
begin to climb. Into late evening young and old can be seen
ambling in the parks and walking along the romantic boulevards in downtown Moscow. The city that never sleeps, as
the famous saying goes, may not have the sea, but a scenic
river. Through the years the Moscow River embankment has
become an extremely popular and glamorous place to pass
a warm summers day. Along the embankment of Gorky park,
you will find many places to sit and read a book, sunbathe
or hire a bike (read more on page 44). Walkers should head
along the southern bank of the Moscow River and explore
the historical Zamoskovrechy district (page 18) and those
who want to know what is beyond Red Square can read our
Pokrovka feature (page 17), a vibrant area not far from the
Kremlin. Summer days can be hot and long in Moscow and
therefore it is essential to know areas to chill out. Over the
years Moscow has been enriched by many attractive summer terraces, which are the perfect place to cool off. For beer
lovers we have good news - the beer feature on page 32 tells
you where to try the fruits of Russia’s craft beer revolution.
There is also much more on offer in Moscow deserving of
your attention. In recent years Moscow’s festival culture has
developed rapidly and nowadays many famous and promising international and local artists find their way to the Russian capital. Open up page 12 and learn more about the best
(music) festivals to be held in Moscow and its surrounding
areas. For those who want to see more of Russia and want to
travel by train our travel feature (page 60) is dedicated to the
birthplace of famous writer Ivan Turgenev. Although summers are typically warm and dry, at times Moscow will experience a surprise bout of heavy rain or ‘levin’ as the Russians
call it. Such days are perfect for a museum excursion. As well
as information about the numerous interesting exhibitions,
we have also included a list of ‘hidden museums’, though less
famous, they are no less interesting. Time to enjoy a wonderful summertime in Moscow!
Wabke Waaijer, Russia In Your Pocket.

Moscow Marathon
E S S E N TI A L

Moscow In Your Pocket
C I TY G U I D E S
founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket.
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A.
tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,
[email protected], russia.inyourpocket.com
General Director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected]
Editor-in-Chief Ksenia Elzes, [email protected]
Researcher Wabke Waaijer, [email protected]
Design Malvina Markina, [email protected]
Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, [email protected]
Contributors Andy Potts, Maria Stambler, Luc Jones, Bauke van der Meer
Customer Service Manager
Tanya Kharitonova, [email protected]
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name
In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from
paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
© Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl
Published 5 times per year with supplements,
No 38, 01.06.2015, 60 000 copies.
For children aged 16 years and over.

Cover story
Gorky Park is Moscow’s biggest playground for kids and
adults. There’s so much to do but so little time - let our
in-depth guide help you make the most of your day
there! Go to page 44 to learn more!

The third annual Moscow
Marathon, the city’s largest sporting event, will take
place on September 20th.
As a warm-up to the event,
the first 5km race debuted
in April, followed by the
Moscow half marathon for
both 21.1km and 10km in
May. The Night Race (July
18) and the Colorful Race
(June 21) promise to add
an extra fun factor to this
otherwise challenging endeavor. This year the Marathon
will also be accompanied by the largest sports exhibition
in Russia, where the world’s leading sports gear companies
will present their latest equipment, gadgets and sportswear.
It’s still not too late to catch up on your resolutions for 2015!
www.moscowmarathon.org

“Children’s World” (Detsky Mir) is a legendary Soviet-era
shopping mall in the heart of Moscow, beloved by children
and adults alike. In 2008, the building was closed its doors
for renovation, but is now finally back in full swing to delight the youngsters with toys, fairytales and joy. The new
and improved children’s department store boasts a vaulted
ceiling topped with a glass dome featuring pictures from
Russian fairy tales. A sea of toys and attractions, life-size
cartoon characters available for photo ops along with a
railroad and a miniature version of Moscow’s famous Kremlin and Bolshoi Theater make this for a fantastic day out for
the kids – even if you’re not planning on buying anything.
www.cdm-moscow.ru

About IYP
RUSSIA

LATVIA
LITHUANIA
BELARUS
NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM

POLAND
UKRAINE

GERMANY
CZECH
REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND
ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE

DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH
AFRICA

4 Moscow In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of months.
Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan,
Italy, we have also been applying the finishing touches to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.
com. Radically redesigned and restructured to place the visitor at the heart of the cities we cover, our
new website puts you in total control of our content
on whatever desktop, laptop or mobile device you
are using. Give it a go: it‘s the biggest digital leap
forward we have ever taken and entrenches our position as a game-changing publisher in all formats.
To keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket,
follow us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Geeky is the new cool and Geek Picnic (June 13-14 in Moscow and June 20-21 in Saint Petersburg) is proof of that. An
independent Russian project created severals years ago by
enthusiasts who believe that the future is here and now, this
year’s Geek Picnic is set to be bigger than ever and aims to
explore the theme of global cyborgization. Ethical, technological and scientific questions will be discussed and the
highlight of the event will be Russia’s first ever gathering of
people who have prosthetic limbs to share their knowledge
and experience! Other big names such as Victoria Modesta,
Neil Harbisson, Jens Naumann and Jason Barnes are set to
take to the stage. www.msk.geek-picnic.ru

Paradise for kids

ESTONIA

NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND

Technology, science
and the arts

Food in the city
Food, glorious food - and all
in one place! We’re talking
about “Oda! Eda!”, Eastern
Europe’s largest gastronomical festival that is taking place in Moscow (June
27-28) and St. Petersburg
(July 25-26). Last year more
than 50,000 people enjoyed
all kinds of noms from over
200 different gastronomical
projects and restaurants. This year the theme is “Russian Gastronomical Traditions” but that doesn’t mean it’s going to be
all borsch: exquisite Russian food from the days of Pushkin,
Tolstoy and Dostoevsky will be re-interpreted according to
contemporary tastes and techniques. Also check out some
master-classes, lectures and a series of battles: restaurateurs vs critics and professional chefs vs babushkas! www.
одаеда.рф, www.facebook.com/odaedablog

Russia day
Мoсква В Твоем Кармане
Учредитель и издатель
ООО «Красная Шапка»
Адрес редакции и издателя:
Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург
Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.
тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65
факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64
Главный редактор
Ксения Элзес
Цена свободная.
Для детей старше 16 лет.

Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”,
191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул.
Тележная, д. 17.
Заказ No26829
Свидетельство о регистрации
средства массовой информации
Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03
выдано Северо-Западным
региональным управлением
комитета РФ по печати.
Тираж 60 000 экз. No38.
01.06.2015

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June 12 is another opportunity to relax and enjoy the Russian lifestyle. The day officially celebrates the Russian Federation declaring independence from the Soviet Union back in
1990 but most Russians seem to agree that this is more a
pretext for enjoying summer rather bearing a deeper, political meaning. Concerts and fireworks are the order of the
day, accompanied by good friends and the obligatory toasts.
Government awards are also given out on this day as Russians celebrate what it means to be Russian.
June - July 2015

5

Arriving & Getting Around
Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its
excellent public transport system. Home to over 12 million
people, Moscow has a public transportation that has been
hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the
world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus,
marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are
cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather
that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service.
And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your
arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow!

Aeroexpress Trains
All international airports in Moscow have a fast train
connection to the capital’s city centre. All? Yes, all!
Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal
and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal
and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket
counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals,
through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies,
and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed
almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets
can be found on the company’s website where you can
purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You
can buy an electronic ticket from the official website
www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view
train timetables. Download their free mobile app and
you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using
your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket:
the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s
QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).

6 Moscow In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around
Arriving by plane
Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located
in the north west, Domodedovo in the south east and
Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the
far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city
centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in
just 35 - 45 minutes.
Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between
00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so
it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when
taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is
reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware
that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers
can not be depended on to have change, if you want to
avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change
in the terminal beforehand.

Arriving by train
Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and
whether you are coming from east or west, north or
south, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling
with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those
arriving very early in the morning to the stations around
Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and
Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia,
the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a
taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area
can be rather dangerous at night.
Belorussky Station
Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress
train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.
Kazansky Station
Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.
2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.
kazanskiy.railclient.ru.
Kievsky Station
Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru.
Kursky Station
For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy
Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.
kursky-vokzal.ru.
Leningradsky Station
Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya
pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.
leningradskiy.railclient.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Paveletsky Station
For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.
railclient.ru.
Rizhsky Station
Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5,
Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88,
www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.
Yaroslavsky Station
The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains
go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as
Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.

Public Transport
The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the
metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between
each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the
beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket
is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or
multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 50Rbl. On
the more modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each
carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages,
however, it is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to
hear in rush hour, so if you aren’t familiar with Moscow’s
many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you
need to go.
Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as
the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy
to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the
metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward,
with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows
and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the
next stop inside,
Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take
some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can
look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate
form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the
driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere
along the route to let them out. The average cost is 50Rbl
- be sure to have some small change on you when taking a
marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!

Car Rental
Avis Russia Car Rental
AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports,
as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel.
(+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Hertz
Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect
a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges.
Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Taxis
Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other
Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company,
you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey.
Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com
English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300
drivers in Moscow.
New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru
TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru
Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru
XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru
It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and
negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To
indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm
down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it
is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are
notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the
city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree
to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses,
slam the door and move on to the next Lada.

Buying train tickets
Buying train tickets at the station
For the full blooded Russian experience, line up to buy a
train ticket at one of the kassi (Ticket offices) at any train
station. You can buy tickets for any train out of Moscow at
any train station. If you are buying tickets to a destination
outside of Russia, you need to look for the mezhdunarodnaya kassa (international desk). If you don’t speak Russian, it
is a good idea to find out the number and time of the train
you want to catch beforehand and write it down to help
you along, as most assistants do not speak English. Look
for a big LCD board in the station showing the timetable.
Don’t forget they also require your passport to sell you a
ticket, this is so that your passport details can be printed on
your ticket. If you lose your ticket, it is possible to get a new
one printed for a small fee by taking your passport to the
special lost tickets desk. You will be required to show your
passport when you enter the train (to prove the ticket and
reservation belongs to you).
Buying train tickets online
Using the website of the Russian railways eng.rzd.ru comes
in very handy. There you can view the timetables and buy
tickets online with a credit card and then just pick it up from
the station! Other options are to buy through a ticket agency or travel agency in Moscow or try and make a booking
through online retailers such as www.poezda.net, www.
tutu.ru, www.trainsrussia.com and www.poezdmegapolis.ru but you might need a login and a password.

Odin bilet - One ticket
Dva bileta - Two tickets
June - July 2015

7

City Basics

Language
Be on guard!

useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if
you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or
Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.

Basic phrases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
I don't speak
Russian
Do you speak
English?
Help!
I need some
help
I don't want

Moscow Tourist Helpline (English)
(+7) 800 220 00 02.

Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro
stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Climate

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

In June and July Moscow hits its stride with balmy temperatures ranging from the mid 20s to the low 30s. Hay fever suffers may struggle with the dusty air and high pollen
count which the summer weather brings with it. Sudden
storms and temperature drops at night mean that it’s best
to be prepared - think layers, an umbrella and a folding paper fan. And of course don’t forget your sunglasses.

Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (oC)

8 Moscow In Your Pocket

Average temperature (oC)
Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the
GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to
complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’
upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands
of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are
over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you
are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s
report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7,
bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and
2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as
Estonia, the allowance is less.

Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.
To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.
You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register
your new sim card.

Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what
is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.
Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to
choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight
as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the
most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye
shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party
drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that
is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.

Post
Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If
you need to get something in or out of the country in
a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or
Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these
offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post
office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post
box around the city.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye!
Mne nuzhna
pomoshch
Ya ne khachu
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est…?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
It's expensive!
Eta dorogo!
Bolshoy/
Large/small
malenky
Khorosho/
Good/bad
plokho
It hurts!
Bolno!
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Could you write Zapishite
it down?
pazhalusta
Toilets
Tualet
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When? At what Kogda? Vo
time?
skolko?
What time is it? Katory chas?
Who?
Kto?
How do you say Kak skazat eto
that in Russian? pa-russky?
No problem
Bez problem
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!
Password
Parol

Нет/Да
Здравствуйте
До свидания
Спасибо
Извините
Пожалуйста
Я не понимаю
Я не говорю
по-русски
Вы говорите
по-английски?
Помогите!
Мне нужна
помошь
Я не хочу
Мне (не)
нравится
Можно?
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www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

pocket dictionary: Kvas
Kvas – the taste of Russian summer.
Once the hot months arrive you’ll notice
big yellow barrels full of this fermented
rye bread soft drink appear on the
streets – yes, a drink made from bread!
Bit like a non-alcoholic ale, it’s an acquired taste to say the
least… Marketed as an authentic Slavic alternative to cola,
this ancient, traditionally homemade drink is now sold in
supermarkets across the land under brand names such as
‘Klassik’ and ‘Nikola’ (not cola, gettit?). Kvas can also sometimes find its way into your food too - okroshka is a cold
soup consisting of raw vegetables, ham, boiled eggs and
lots of kvas. Those crazy Russian chefs!

alphabet
А
Б
В
Г
Д
Е
Ё
Ж

A
B
V
G
D
E
YO
ZH

З
И
Й
К
Л
М
Н
О

Z
I
Y
K
L
M
N
O

П
Р
С
Т
У
Ф
Х
Ц

P
R
S
T
U
F
KH
TS

Ч
Ш
Щ
Ы
Э
Ю
Я
Ъ, Ь

CH
SH
SHCH
Y
E
YU
YA
no sound

June - July 2015

9

Culture & Events

Culture & Events
Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they
all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic
place. Live music from local and international performers
is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and
on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar
competitions and other curious events.

concert halls and clubs
Crocus City Hall
QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.crocus-hall.ru.
Luzhniki Stadium
QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62,
www.luzhniki.ru.
Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru.
Moscow Philarmonic Society
QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
RAY JUST Arena
QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495
940 67 55, www.rayjustarena.ru.
SK Olimpisky
QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33
33, www.olimpik.ru.
Stadium Live
QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495
540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru.
State Kremlin Palace
QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel.
(+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.

theatres
Bolshoi Theatre
QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455
55 55, www.bolshoi.ru.
electroTheater stanislavsky
QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699
72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru.
Helikon-Opera
QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
695 65 84, www.helikon.ru.
Maly Theatre
QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK
Mayakovsky Theatre
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru.
Moscow English Theatre
Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Different performance venues, check the website for details.
Natalia Sats children’s Music Theatre
QPr. Vernadskogo 5, MUniversitet, tel. (+7) 495 930 70
21, (+7) 965 302 27 80, www.teatr-sats.ru.
10 Moscow In Your Pocket

Sovremennik Theatre
QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19А,, MChistye Prudy, tel.
(+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru.
Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko
Moscow Music Theatre
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru.
Taganka Theatre
QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.

june and july events
05.06 Friday
10:00 5’nizza
Ten years later, the masterminds behind one of Russia’s most iconic duos of the
2000’s decided to get back
together for two shows in
Moscow (June 5th) and St.
Petersburg (June 6th). With
nothing but their voices and
a guitar, Andrey “Sana” Zaporozhets and Sergei Babkin
saw their formation’s popularity spread like wildfire thanks to their fans’ loyalty and
word-of-mouth. During the recording of 5’nizza’s 3rd studio
album Sana and Babkin went their separate artistic ways.
But 5’nizza’s absence was sorely missed. After all, each fan
has their own special connection to their lyrics, which touch
upon the heaviest topics and deepest emotions. So it’s time
to rejoice and see this joyous reunion with your own eyes
and feel it with your heart.QStadium Live, Leningradsky
pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.
stadium-live.ru. Tickets 3,000 - 15,000Rbl.
05.06 Friday
10:00 Blind Guardian
Ladies and gentlemen, please stand and get your tickets
- the legends are coming
back to town! Blind Guardian, straight from Germany,
are coming back to town
after a 4 year break. Kings
of symphonic power metal,
they have managed to create a whole world in which
you’re immersed into a
medieval world with undertones of Tolkien’s phantasy
lands.They deserve massive respect not only for their mix
of powerful speed metal and light melodies, contrast of
aggression and true beauty but also for their determination to stay true to themselves and their genre, without
the typical rock star scandals and catchy self-advertising.
QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.blind-guardian.com.
Tickets 2,400 - 8,000Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

12.06 Friday
10:00 Children of Bodom
Are you ready to get your
moshing shoes out and
head bang like you’re 15
again? Then Ray Just Arena
on June 12th is the place to
be because the strapping
Finnish legends from Children of Bodom are coming
back to town! The ability to
combine melody, extreme
brutality and drive has won
them a loyal fan following on both sides of the pond as
well as several gold and platinum albums. What makes
this show so special and unlike any of the others? This time
around, Russian fans get to vote for the songs they want
to hear live!QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg.
4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.cobhc.com.
Tickets 3,200 - 8,000Rbl.
28.06 Sunday
10:00 Papa Roach
To Russia, with love. And
rock. Papa Roach, one of
everyone’s favorite first rock
bands, which needs little introduction, is coming back
to the Motherland to present their new album F.E.A.R.
(Face Everything and Rise).
Papa Roach came into being during a very interesting
time music-wise, when NuMetal met Rapcore. Over the years the band’s initial fans
grew and matured and the band did so with them, turning their sound more towards alternative metal. This tour
is not only a presentation of their new album, but a retrospective of their more than 20 year long career throughout
which the boys brought their energetic and dynamic live
shows to perfection.QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr.
31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.
paparoach.com. Tickets 2,300 - 4,500Rbl.
29.06 Monday
11:00 Rise against
Party like it’s 1999 with Rise
Against on June 29th in Ray
Just Arena. Formed back in
1999 in Chicago by friends
Tim McIlrath and Joe Principe, Rise Against is not your
average punk rock band:
it’s a rare blend of aggressive yet melodic punk and
brutal hardcore with lyrics
laden with deep, thoughtprovoking meaning.The boys like to keep busy - this year
saw the release of their 7th studio with a grim title “The
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Black Market”. And what better reason to hit the road and
yet again, together with their fans, rise against all kinds of
social injustices while having fun?QRay just arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665
99 99, www.riseagainst.com. Tickets 2,200 - 10,000Rbl.
15.07 Wednesday
10:00 Kasabian
Back to Moscow again only after one year, we needn’t further proof that Russia loves Kasabian and Kasabian loves
Russia. If last year’s performance at “Subbotnik” festival
is anything to go by, this British band’s show is not going
to nothing short of grandiose, epic and mind-blowing undeniable proof that rock ‘n’ roll is alive and kicking.
Kasabian is worth seeing this summer because they’re one
of those few rock bands that never stop developing and
surprising. Their last album is a true ode to the genre that
takes in and gives back the finest traditions of rock music
throughout the decades.QStadium Live, Leningradsky
pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.
stadium-live.ru. Tickets 3,000 - 1,200Rbl.

19.07 Sunday
10:00 Yann Tiersen
A French genius beloved by Russians, whose musical career has spanned almost 20 years, Yann Tiersen’s style is
so cinematographic that people often mistake him for a
sound track composer. And this confusion is easily understood, after all his earlier tracks feature on the cult classic “Amelie” soundtrack! And the multi-instrumentalist
composer is on his way back to Moscow to bring the local
crowd a delightfully unique mix of classical minimalism,
post-rock, folktronica and indie rock. Monsieur Tiersen
will be, in part, presenting his latest album “Infinity” which
means that this time around his show will be more vocaland guitar-heavy.QYotaspace (Glavclub), ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30,
www.yanntiersen.bzh. Tickets 2,000 - 5,000Rbl.

June - July 2015

11

Culture & Events
summer festivals
Hoorah, festival season is upon us!
Everyone’s happy that summer is finally here in Moscow!
But now this is especially true for music lovers of all musical
persuasions. Why? Well, in recent years the European festival
culture has finally caught up in Moscow. A testament to that
is last year’s summer, which saw titans such as The Prodigy,
Placebo, Marilyn Manson, Jamiroquai, Enter Shikari, MGMT,
Bombay Bicycle Club, Lykke Li, Metronomy and Miles Kane
just to name a few. This year, with the economy not at its
best, some of last year’s festivals will either not be taking
place or will be held on a smaller scale. But we’re all optimists who see the glass half full because this means you
don’t need to make any difficult decisions and can go to all
of them! So, sunglasses? Check. Sunscreen? Check. Comfortable footwear? Check. Friends? Check. Good vibes? Check.
Alright, lets see what this summer has got in store!
12.06 Friday
Sensation White
After being hosted so generously by St. Petersburg for
7 straight years, the world’s
most famous electronic music festival is coming to Russia’s capital city! Moscow will
host a white fairytale world
with a focus on a journey
of emotional discovery. This
year’s show features some
of the best global DJ’s, taking the night to the next level with their driving bass lines,
enchanting melodies and highly charged drops. Join the ride
of a life time and let the following DJ’s be your guide. The best
way to kick off a wild night has a name, and it’s Mr White. Sensation’s resident superstar DJ has been rocking dance floors all
over the globe for years and has come to embody the highenergy dance experience that is Sensation. Then Mark Knight
- a rare and wonderful breed of integral house heavyweight
- is set to take to the decks. Also on the bill this year is DJ Feel
(the leader of Russian dance club music), Fedde le Grand (a
veteran Sensation super DJ that is known to bring the crowd
what it wants), Chuckie (one of the industry’s true pioneers,
who created a sound ahead of the time blending elements
of hip hop and House music) and Bourgeous (a newcomer
who’s quickly making waves in the scene as a music producer
and DJ).QC-1, SK Olimpisky (SKO), Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr.
Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Tickets
4,500 - 100,000Rbl.
19.06 Friday
17:00 Park Live
Tailored more to the rock and metal crowd, this festival hit
the scene with a bang back in 2013. In its first two years acts
such as Limp Bizkit, Poets of the Fall, NOFX, Justice, Ladytron, Pendulum, DJ Fresh, The Prodigy, Marilyn Manson and
Deftones tore the roof off. Well not exactly roof because
it always took place under the open sky at the All-Russia
12 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events
Exhibition Center, an architectural masterpiece with
fountains, amusement park
rides and the huge space
rocket “Vostok” in the center of it all. The venue and
format will be a little different this year but certainly
no less rocking. Park Live
decided to spread its wings
and take the show to the new Otkrytie Arena where British rock legends Muse will play a headlining show. Fellow
rockers from the American band Incubus are also on the bill
for the 19th. Unlike last year, there will be an official after
party on the following day in Moscow’s gorgeous and lush
Gorky Park. As if that’s not exciting enough, one of Norway’s
finest outfits will make you move and groove like no other.
So don’t miss the chance to let yourself go and have a truly
fantastic time to some truly fantastic bands in the peak heat
of Moscow’s summer.QOtkrytie Arena, Volokolamskoye
Shosse 69, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 37, www.
parklive.pro. Tickets 2,500 - 6,000Rbl.
20.06 Saturday - 21.06 Sunday
Usadba Jazz
The largest outdoor jazz funk, world music, acid-jazz, lounge,
jazz-rock and blues festival
in Russia today is Usad’ba
Jazz, which welcomes more
than 40,000 visitors eager to
soak in the performances
of the best local and international artists. Although
musical performances are a
key ingredient, many people
are attracted to this festival
thanks to its rich cultural
and leisure program with activities ranging from volleyball to
board games and, of course, the huge beautiful park with its
breath-taking architecture and surrounding nature, clean air
and the relaxing summer vibe. Over the years, the festival has
proudly hosted names such as Marcus Miller, Avishai Cohen
Trio, Branford Marsalis Quartet, Charlie Hunter Trio, The Brand
New Heavies, Yusef Lateef & Belmondo Quintet - and this is
just a tiny fraction of the virtuosos hailing from all parts of the
world! Ever since its debut in 2004, the beauty and splendor of
the Arkhangelskoe Estate, a true masterpiece of Russian architecture of the 18th century, played venue to the festival. This
year the venue will be changing to the no less impressive or
atmospheric Tsaritsyno Estate closer to the city center. Spread
over 6 stages, local artists as well world famous names will
deliver performances across a wide range of genres, from pop
rock to mainstream jazz to ethnic music to electronica. Don’t
sweat it if you’re not in Moscow to catch Usad’ba Jazz - there
are show dates for Voronezh (July 4th), Ekaterinburg (July
25th) and St. Petersburg (July 11th). Or just use it as a great
excuse to do some traveling around Russia!QTsaritsyno,
Dolskaya ul. 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.
usadba-jazz.ru. Tickets 2,500 - 7,000Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

26.06 Friday - 28.06 Sunday
Dikaya Myata (Wild Mint)
Wild Mint is the largest
world music festival in Russia. Ever since 2008 it was
held in the cultural ethnographic complex Etnomir
but this year it’s moving to
a little village called Bunyrevo in Tula Region (about
150km from Moscow). Over
the years it has attracted
the most salient artists from all corners of the world: Balkan rollicking tunes and Celtic rhythms, lingering Russian
melodies and laconic afrobeat, noble ethno-jazz and sunny
ragga, Georgian polyphony and Portuguese tunes, the
songs of independent Spanish pop music and fancy FinnoUgric lamentation songs. This year you can expect to see
Akvarium, Nino Katamdze, Zdob si Zdub, Pirre Edel, Sun Tailor, N.O.H.A. and many other Russian and foreign artists. The
vibrant musical program and a rich cultural/entertainment
come together to provide visitors with a truly unforgettable
trip around our breathtaking planet - all within a short train
ride from Moscow! QBunyrevo, Tulskaya Oblast, tel. (+7)
495 644 22 22, www.mintmusic.ru. Tickets 2,500Rbl and
children 1,250Rbl. Getting there: By train from Moscow
Kursky Railway station (metro Kurskaya) to Tarusskaya
railway station (1,37hour). From Tarusskaya railway station further by festival buses.
25.07 Saturday
12:00 Picnic Afisha
Held every year since 2004,
Picnic Afisha has turned into
“a little city within a big city”.
Last year, almost 54,000 people attended this mecca for a
second to none program of
music and arts, leisure and
lifestyle activities, including a designers market and
a gastronomic area, special
lectures and workshops, cinema and crafts and a full spectrum
of amusements and sports. Attendees gather in the scenic area
of Kolomenskoe (a former royal estate, which now is a historical,
architectural and nature reserve museum) to enjoy the engaging and versatile surroundings for different audiences, either for
individuals or families. So what can we expect this year musicwise? Well, boys and girls, get ready to put on your fanciest
dancing shoes because Britain’s kings of electronica from Hot
Chip, together with Russia’s queen of rock Zemfira are guaranteed to make you jump around all day! And that’s only the
cherry on top of the icing. The ever-changing and ever-evolving British band The Horrors, Russia’s veteran romantic rocker
Naik Borzov, Ivan Dorn (Russia’s answer to Pharell Williams) and
one of the coolest Russian indie bands “SBPCh” are also on the
bill for this year’s edition.QKolomenskoe Museum Estate, Pr.
Andropova 39, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 644 22 22,
www.picnic.afisha.ru. Tickets 2,200Rbl.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Electrotheater
Stanislavsky
The new and improved Stanislavsky
Theater, which opened
its doors on Moscow’s
central
Tverskaya
Street at the start of
the year, now goes
by the name “Electrotheater”. It is simply
homage to one of the
Photo by Andrey Bezukladnikov first pre-revolutionary
Russian movie theaters “Electrotheater Ars” that occupied the same building in 1915. The best traditions of a
fashionable movie theater, a dramatic opera studio and
the influence of the famous Russian director Konstantin
Stanislavsky – all these factors intertwine to make this
theater truly unique in the capital’s cultural scene. The
theater’s current art director Boris Yukhananov is also
determined to combine truly avantgarde traditions
with classical Russian theater art. Despite this drive for
innovation and transformation, Electrotheater Stanislavksy carefully sticks to the traditions of Russia’s dramatic theater. Here is a brief breakdown of what guests
can expect to enjoy this summer.
The Drillalians, director Boris Yukhananov
The main premiere of the summer is the opera series
“The Drillalians” (with English subtitles) which will be
presented over 5 evenings! This one is not to be missed
as it will beautifully introduce the theater’s new direction
and the art directors vision for the future of this cultural
establishment. June 8, 9, 15, 16, 22, 23, 29, 30; July 6, 7.
Blue Bird, director Boris Yukhananov
Spread over 3 evenings, this moving trilogy has barely any
singing but plenty of speech. The theater’s and indeed the
entire country’s history will be portrayed in a Broadway-like
manner but with the same depth of multi-volume philosophical fairytale for adults. July 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31.
The Human Use of Human Beings, director Romeo
Castellucci
Romeo Castellucci’s short play based on Giotto’s fresco
“The Resurrection of Lazarus” employs the language
of Generallissimo and symbols that will keep viewers
on the edge of their seats. Watch a giant wheel move
around the theater, followed by a smell of ammonia
and the singing of Alexey Tegin, the start of post-perestroika’s underground. July 18, 19, 20.
The Bacchae, director Theodoros Tersopulos
A theatrical masterpiece by Theodoros Terzopoulos, “The
Bacchae” tells the ancient myth about a ruler who decided to equate himself to God and ended up being torn
apart by bacchae in the mountains. July 11, 12, 13.
QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 699 72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru. Tickets 300 3,000Rbl. See the full schedule online.
June - July 2015

13

Culture & Events

Culture & Events

kostroma show

through 28.06 Sunday
Metro and War

Bored of Russian history
museums with lots of dry
non-compelling texts?
Looking for history that
would be fun and accessible to the whole family?
If yes, make sure to check
out the National Show of
Russia “Kostroma”! For
more than 10 years this spectacle has been transcending space and time to show viewers the vastness of
this incredible multi-cultural country. Through brilliant
stage performances we are shown the beginning of
Christianity in Russia, the Tsarist epoch and pre-revolutionary Russia, the flight of the first man into space and
the famous Russian ballet. A variety of landscapes are
covered, ranging from the Caucaus mountains to Asian
steppes, the Northern Ocean to the Black Sea, the beautiful Volga river to the mighty Yenisei. As the scenery
changes, so do the people along with their traditions
and culture. QBKZ “Kosmos”, pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh,
tel. (+7) 495 234 63 73, www.nationalrussianshow.ru.
The show takes place every day from the 17th of June
until the 15th of September (except Thursdays).

Did you know that the Moscow Metro played a very
important role in the city’s
life during the years of the
Great Patriotic War? A new
exhibition at the Moscow’s
All-Russian Decorative Art
Museum titled “Metro and
War” is a new multimedia
project that aims to show
that the metro was more
than just a means of transportation during the toughest
years of Soviet history - it was the place of struggle, war
and, ultimately, victory. Unique photo and video material
borrowed from the State Archive of the Russian Federation,
the National Library of Russia and other reputable establishments will take you on a journey that begins on June 22,
1941 and continues for nearly four long years under heavy
bombardment, rations, losses, invasions and finishes triumphantly on May 9, 1945 .QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art
Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7)
495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
Children till 7 years old entrance free.

Exhibitions
01.06 monday - 28.06 sunday
Children of the World Depict War.
But is it War they Dream about…?
Children see the world
and the things that happen around us through
a different perspective.
And while no child should
ever witness war, unfortunately, it has happened all
too often throughout history. Moscow’s All-Russian
Decorative Art Museum
presents a special exhibition in honor of the 70th anniversary of the victory in
World War II and Children’s Day on June 1 with an exhibition called “Children of the World Depict War. But is it
War they Dream about…?”. It brings together more than
100 graphic works created by children from Russia, Spain,
China, Germany, the USA, the UK, France and Japan in the
1930s and 1940s. The sheer geographic scope of such a
project has no equals and allows visitors to see the scale
of the humanitarian tragedy of WW2 through the eyes
of children.QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum,
Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609
01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue
and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
Children till 7 years old entrance free.
14 Moscow In Your Pocket

through 19.07 Sunday
Georgy Yakulov
If you’re in town between
April 22 and July 19 there’s
an extra reason to visit the
State Tretyakov Gallery: the
works of one of the most
original and colorful artists
of the 20th century, “an artist and an intellectual”, “the
last Mohican of bohemian
life” - Georgy Bogdanovich
Yakulov (1884-1928). An
ethnic Armenian who was born and raised in Tiflis (now
Tbilisi), formed his artistic identity in Moscow and had close
ties to the Parisian art scene, Yakulov ambitiously strived to
combine the best of Eastern and Western traditions in his
works. Color was especially dear to him: his theory of “multicolored suns” aimed to explain the connection between nature and culture. Visitors have the pleasure of seeing more
than 130 of his works and rediscover the contribution this
avant-gardist made to the world of art.QB-5, Tretyakov
Gallery at Krymsky Val, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury,
tel. (+7) 499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open
10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.

For all the latest concert, event and
exhibition news follow us on facebook at
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com

through 19.07 Sunday
Robert Capa
Together with the Hungarian National Museum and the
Hungarian Cultural Center, MAMM celebrates the year of
Hungary in Russia by presenting a retrospective of the celebrated Hungarian war photographer and photo journalist
Robert Capa. The exhibition includes 120 works, shot in 5
different military conflicts from Spain to Indochina, as well
as from his time spent in the USSR in 1947 together with
John Steinbeck. The latter works were subsequently included in their book “The Russian Journal”, which, ironically, was
never translated into Russian.QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia
Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en.
Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl.
through 23.08 Sunday
Around Munkachi
As part of the Year of Hungary in Russia, the Pushkin
Museum has carefully put
together an exhibition
titled “Around Munkachi”,
dedicated to the life and
work of the famous Hungarian painter Mikhai Munkachi (1844-1900). More than
50 of his works have been
brought over from the Hungarian National Gallery and the
collection of Imre Pakh and are complemented by the Pushkin Museum’s and Tretyakov Gallery’s selected works by Russian and European masters of the XIX century. The exhibition
is spread across 6 halls and brings the viewer closer to the various creative directions Munkachi went down during his artistic career and juxtaposes it with the European and Russian
schools of art of the second half of the XIX century. There is
also a special educational and concert program to go with the
exhibition.QC-3, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts,
Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609
95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 150 - 550Rbl.
through 06.09 Sunday
Soviet Photography
“Soviet Photography” was the country’s largest and most
respected magazine specializing in the art of photography.
During its existence from 1926 until 1997, all of our vast
country’s titans of photography featured on its pages and
despite strict Soviet censorship, it still got to enjoy a degree
of freedom to become the primary platform for discussion
about photography among leading professionals and critics. The exhibition invites the viewer to engage with Soviet
photography across several decades (1920s-1990s) and be
immersed in the world of aesthetical and thematic variety
that appeared on the pages of the magazine during this
period.QC-4, The Lumier Brothers Center for Photography, Bolotnaya nab. 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 228 98 78, www.lumiere.ru. Open 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 430Rbl.
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arkhangelskoe
through 01.06.2016 Wednesday
In a carriage and horseback
Wondering what activity would be perfect for the
whole family this May? You
don’t need to look much
further than just outside the
MKAD (Moscow’s outer ring
road) for some good old
educational outdoors fun!
Head on down to the 18th-century estate, sometimes
also referred to as Russia’s Versailles, on May 16th for
the yearly grand re-opening of the complex that will be
marked by the exhibition “In a carriage and horseback”
dedicated to royal horse-drawn carriages that belonged
to the respected Yusupov family. The two carriages that
will be presented have been fully restored and are ready
to amaze history lovers and those just looking for something different. One of the carriages was made in Germany in the 1720s and the other belonged to empress
Catherine II. To fully immerse you in the fascinating
world of Russia’s royalty and elite, the exhibition will be
accompanied by a fascinating demonstration of rarities
like harnesses and other equestrian objects.
through 01.05.2016 Sunday
French Art at Arkhangelskoe
Visitors are invited to marvel
at the “French Art at Arkhangelskoe” exhibition. The
name is quite self-explanatory but here’s a bit more as to
what you can expect to find.
This exhibition is the fruit of
the collaboration of three
Moscow museums: apart from pieces from Arkhangelskoe’s collection (one of the country’s best collections of late
XVII and early XIX century French art), five pieces from the
Pushkin museums and several items from the Ostankino
estate museum were contributed to the exhibition.The
Arkhangelskoye collection, acquired mostly by Prince Yusupov in the late XVII - early XIX century, boasts some impressive French landscapes including those by Claude Joseph Vernet and Pierre Jacques Volaire. Other masters you
will be able to marvel at include Charles Alphonse du Fresnoy, Francois Boucher and Louise Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun.
QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60,
www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon - Fri 10:00 21:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 19:00. Museum open
Wed - Fri 10:30 - 17:00, Sat and Sun and holidays
10:30 - 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed
of the month. Admission park 50 - 150Rbl, exhibition
100 - 350Rbl, all inclusive ticket 500Rbl.
June - July 2015

15

Culture & Events

Features
Walking tour Pokrovka

POKROVKA &
ZAMOSKVORECHYE
There’s no better time than summer to
discover Russia’s beautiful capital by foot
and there are no better areas than Pokrovka
and Zamoskvorechye to soak in all the
history, culture and beauty that Moscow is
so famous for! Here’s what there is to see,
do and taste in these two places.
16 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Basmanny district is one of Moscow’s most beautiful and
historically significant areas, closely associated with Peter I of Russia, Matvey Kazakov and Alexander Pushkin.
It extends northeast from Kitay-gorod, within the radial
boundaries of Yauza River, contains historical areas of Khitrovka, Clean Ponds, Red Gates, the German Quarter and
Basmannaya Sloboda and boasts memorial buildings of
Petrine Baroque, Neoclassicism and Art Nouveau periods.
It is indeed a glimpse into the Moscow of days past and
no street better represents the history, culture and life of
then and now than Pokrovka Street. It is mentioned in Griboedov’s “Woe from Wit”, Alexey Tolstoy’s “Peter the First”
and its perfect embodiment of historical Moscow made it
extremely popular among Russia’s cinematographers. For
example, a famous Soviet cult classic comedy film “The
Pokrovsky Gate” (directed by Mikhail Kozakov) is set in the
area around Pokrovsky Gate, which is a square situated
roughly midway down Pokrovka.
Lets begin with a little background of the origins of Pokrovka. This street got its name from the Church of the Intercession first mentioned all the way back in 1488. In 1778
the church was demolished but Pokrovka remained.
As with anything that bore any kind of religious connotation, the Soviets renamed Pokrovka to something more socialist sounding. The new name - Chernyshevskogo Street
- was an homage to Nikolay Chernyshevsky, a Russian
democrat and utopian socialist who was widely regarded
as the chief inspiration for Russia’s revolutionary movement
in the 19th century. To immortalize his actions and deeds,
a statue was erected in his honor in 1988 and remains on
Pokrovka 16 until this day.
And as with many central streets that were renamed by the
Soviets, Pokrovka got its original name back after the fall of
the USSR and, ironically, embraced capitalism as luxurious
hotels and apartments, modern business centers and posh
restaurants started popping up.
That is not to say that Pokrovka has lost its classic Moscow
feel. For example house number 1/13/6 is a residential
house designed in 1871, which is now a cultural heritage
site. Several beautiful churches, cathedrals and other religious places line the street making it a highly important
area in Moscow for spirituality and Russian Orthodox Christianity. Mansions that belonged to Moscow’s merchants
of the 19th century are beautiful site to behold, especially
now that many of them have undergone much-needed reconstruction. One of these mansions (house number 22/1)

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was even frequented by Alexander Pushkin and Olga Pushkina for dance lessons. House number 38A was the main
city residence of nobles families like the Shuvalovs and
later Golitsyns (duchess Natalia Petrovna Golitsyna was the
inspiration for Pushkin’s “Queen of Spades”) and is one of
the most significant buildings in Moscow embodying the
period of early classicism.
Apart from soaking in history, Pokrovka is a street wellknown for culture, art and entertainment. For example, at
the very end of the street (house number 47/24) you will
find 35mm, Moscow’s premiere cinema for foreign language movies, art house films and festivals. Children and
adults alike would certainly enjoy a trip to the Museum of

Unique Dolls (house 13/2), where the art of doll making in
Russia, Germany and England over the last two centuries
receives special attention: glass cabinets are packed with
more than 6,000 wax, plastic and cloth figures as well as
English doll houses.
No one can ever go hungry or thirsty here, either. If you’re
looking for simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings, go to Dacha na Pokrovke (house 18/15), a
café/restaurant spread over the upper floor of a crumbling
medieval mansion with its collection of Soviet and preSoviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of the
type you’d usually find at a flea market. The menu focuses
on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a
barbeque grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with
succulent shashlik.
For a quick tasty breakfast pastry or lunchtime snack, pop
into Bulka (house 19) where everything laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it looks. To sink your teeth
into contemporary Georgian goodness in contemporary
surroundings – and at very reasonable prices – Saperavi
would be our pick on Pokrovka (house 5). The menu does
hold good classics like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri (stuffed
cheese bread), but also adds its own twists on things, as
for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri - add in
thirst-quenching homemade lemonades and reasonably
priced wines and you are on to a winner! Nearby, you can
also find Dolma (house 16) in case you want a broader
selection of various Caucasian cuisines. It doesn’t have the
fake foliage and costumed waiters so typical of Caucasian
restaurants until recently, but rather the laidback comfort of
a stylish armchair and an exposed brick urban vibe.
June - July 2015

17

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(house 15/16) Already seeing almost three million people
BELORUSSKY VOKZAL
through its doors since its founding in 2005, the
chain has
sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Although
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Contrary
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merchant life.
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Like
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lection
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Obviously, there are plenty more cafes, restaurants, bars and looted many of Zamoskvorechye’s churches,
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decades.
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Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 40 - 60Rbl.
25
PER.
SKY

9

19

Features

Features
unique atmosphere. Each room tells its own story, as well
as the history of Moscow: Metropol windows offer a view
of the historic center of the capital – Teatralnaya Square and
Manezhnaya Square, Bolshoi Theatre, Teatralny Proezd, Lubyanskaya Square, and the legendary Kremlin towers.
The unique Grand Suites of the Metropol Hotel combine
the luxury of the old times with modern technological solutions, ensuring the highest level of comfort. The beautiful
and spacious Grand Suites give a feeling of royal relaxation.
Guests who opt for these rooms can be absolutely sure to
have chosen the capital’s chic at its best. The Grand Suite
consists of several rooms, separate bedrooms, comfortable
hallway. The windows open on the Manezhnaya Square,
Revolution Square and Teatralny Proezd. Antique furniture,
ancient sculptures and paintings emphasize the grandeur
of the apartments.

110th anniversary
of METROPOL
“We’ve had important businessmen and heads of state.
The presidents of France and Canada have stayed here. The
leader of North Korea stayed here in 2001. We’ve also had
the honor of receiving royalty. For example, the Queen of
Spain, the Queen of the Netherlands, and the Duke of Luxembourg. The list is impressive.”
Only a handful of hotels in Europe can boast such an impressive guest list but Moscow’s iconic Metropol Hotel, one
of the Russian capital’s main attractions, can proudly do so.
This year, Metropol - one of the best hotels in the world
as confirmed by its famous guests, the likes of Arnold
Schwarzenegger, Sharon Stone, Michael Jackson and many
others – is celebrating its 110th anniversary.

In its more than century-long history,
the Metropol has always been at the
center of events in Russia’s social and
cultural life.

the hotel: Sergey Yesenin confessed his love to Isadora
Duncan; Soviet leader Joseph Stalin shook Chinese leader
Mao Tse Tung’s hand.
In 1918, soon after the Bolshevik Revolution, Metropol was
turned into the Second Home of the Soviets and housed
living quarters and offices of growing Soviet bureaucracy.
But this did not last very long and in the 1930’s it was converted to its original hotel function. In 1986-1991 the hotel
went through a major restoration.
As perfectly as it embodies Russia’s past, the Metropol also
continues to play an important life in Russia’s present. Today, the building of the Metropol hotel looks like a magnificent Art Nouveau era production. Interiors preserved from
the 19th century allow the hotel’s guests to better feel and
understand that history, as well as the history and culture
of Russia as a whole.
Aside from its impressive history, the Metropol can rightfully be called a bastion of comfort and luxury with all the
modern necessities for business and leisure. The hotel offers a selection of 388 rooms (including 69 suites), each
with its own character: while all apartments differ in layout
and design, decoration details and accessories emphasize
their individuality. Carefully restored moldings, wall and
ceiling paintings, gorgeous antiques from the early of the
20th century – all of these features contribute to creating a

Built in 1905 at the initiative of the famous Russian merchant Savva Mamontov, the construction process involved
many the finest talents of the end of the XIX-beginning
of the XX centuries in the sphere of architecture, art and
sculpture. The most notable artistic contributions were
made by Mikhail Vrubel (the Princess of Dreams mosaic
panel) Alexander Golovin (the smaller ceramic panels) and
sculptor Nikolay Andreyev (the plaster friezes).
During the Silver Age, the Metropol was extremely popular among the creme de la creme of Russian cultural life.
The likes of the opera singer Fyodor Shalyapin, the famous ballerina Anna Pavlova and the poet Valery Bryusov
frequented the hotel during their stays in Moscow. In the
Soviet times several important events took place inside
20 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

And finally: the hotel has only two Presidential Suites because luxury can’t be replicated. Luxury ceiling moldings,
bay windows with stained glass decorations, antique furniture, walls upholstered in silk – the Presidential Suite is
spectacular. The spacious living room is fitted with furniture made of precious wood with carved lions and fauns,
a French mantel clock, a piano and a Venetian armchair. It
features a collection of artworks from the last three centuries and each item fits so perfectly that it’s impossible to
imagine it in any other surroundings. From these windows
the most famous people of the 20th century looked out at
the Teatralny Proezd, Tretyakovsky Proezd and Lubyanskaya
Square – the almost 100sq meter Presidential Suites welcomed heads of foreign states, members of royal families,
film stars, and people of art. The Presidential Suites are even
equipped with saunas.
One does not have to be a guest at the Metropol Hotel to
enjoy this unique atmosphere and get immersed in history.
The legendary hotel in the heart of Moscow is also known
for the finest traditions of Russia’s cuisine enjoyed by locals
and visitors alike in one of its restaurants or bars.
Breakfast at the Metropol is rightfully considered most
exquisite and diverse in terms of the menu served in the
memorable entourage of Metropol Hall to the sounds of
the harp and fountain. Caviar and salmon pancakes, exotic fruits, porridges of several kinds, natural diary products,
poached eggs with smoked salmon and spinach, seasonal
berries, meats and a range of cheeses, bakery and many
other delights are among the treats served daily from 07:00
until 11:00.
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The historical interiors of the early 20th century with the
first-class service of the Shaliapin Bar can impress even
the most discerning visitors as the perfect place to enjoy a
drink. The professional barmen can make a cocktail to satisfy any taste. The special and unique manner of servicing
drinks in tandem with the extraordinary coupled historical
interiors of the bar with its marble columns, will ceiling
moldings and Art Nouveau chandeliers, will plunge you
into the early 20th century atmosphere.
And finally, there’s Restaurant Savva, which owes its
name to the founder of Metropol Savva Mamontov,
the well-known manufacturer and patron of arts. The
Metropol’s reputation as the place to find “New Russian”
cuisine would not have come to be without its brand-chef
mastermind Andrey Shmakov.
“A chef must experiment and put their knowledge to practice, perfecting their skills. Simply copying someone else’s
recipe – well, that’s not interesting”, thinks Andrey Shmakov. And this is the motto he lives by, which is deliciously
reflected in the Metropol’s menus.
Throughout his career which has taken him around the
world on a German shipping company, to various Italian
and French restaurants in his native Tallinn and Michelin
star establishments around Europe, Mr. Shmakov has always stayed true to this principle of experimentation.
The Metropol’s new menu therefore combines the thoroughness of Scandinavia’s cuisine, the vivacity of Italy’s,
the refinement of France’s and the originality of Russia. In
addition, Mr. Shmakov firmly believes in using the freshest
local produce and finishing off every dish with a pinch of
good mood. If you like what you have tasted, Mr. Shmakov’s
recipe book is available for purchase!
Metropol
QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499
501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru.

June - July 2015

21

Where to eat

Where to eat
Asian and Indian
Bely Zhuravl
Possibly the best Korean food in Moscow is served up at this
simple restaurant and the portions are huge! Plenty of complimentary Korean pickled delights (including kimchi) are
provided to tide you over until the main dishes arrive. The
idea here is to bring a group of friends and share things out
between you as the soups, noodles and meat dishes come
by the kilo. Unfortunately the lack of English menu can
make it difficult to order if you are not familiar with Korean
cuisine, although there are at least pictures. Buzzers on the
tables also ensure dedicated service.QFrunzenskaya nab.
14, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 775 06 56, www.beliyjuravl.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAVSW

Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans.
Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill
up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book
in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars
and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one
Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for
good service only - around ten percent is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
€ - 0 - 400Rbl
€€ 400 - 800Rbl
€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl
€€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian
Cafe Pushkin
This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and
popular with local business men and passing tourists.
Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now
frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the
roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine
recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophis-

SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

22 Moscow In Your Pocket

ticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library
Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2,
Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33,
www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the
second floor 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PAVEGW
Dacha na Pokrovke
The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for
simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings.
Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet and
pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery of
the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly has
a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque grill
kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent shashlik. Live music most evenings.QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15
(entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel.
(+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. Open
11:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEGSW
Odessa Mama
Odessa Mama offers a taste of every Russian’s idealized
childhood cuisine. Drawing inspiration from the slightly
raffish Ukrainian port that launched a thousand summer
holiday memories, it presents a range of childhood favorites in an atmosphere that has had crowds flocking to the
large dining hall near Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a nod to
Odessa’s Jewish heritage brings a couple of items that you
won’t find in your staff canteen - the hummus, currently
Moscow’s most fashionable dish, is worth a look. If you
grew up in the USSR, this is like going back to your carefree
childhood; if you didn’t it’s maybe a bit difficult to see what
the fuss is about. The restaurant is run by the team behind
the Khachupuri Georgian chain, which has a branch in the
same building. Also at Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro Kievskaya).
QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.ru. Open 11:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PAVEGSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Darbars
Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is
not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the
trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of
the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional
southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following of
faithful Indian expats. It is tastefully decorated in a minimal
style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they
also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. Also
at Starosadsky per. 1 (metro Kitay Gorod).QHotel Sputnik,
Leninsky pr. 38, 16th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel.
(+7) 495 930 29 25, www.darbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
€€. PAVSW
Tan
It can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, not
just in Moscow, but in many cities. However Tan, just off Triumphalnaya Square, defies this. The menu boasts a huge
range of choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations
and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable,
the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the house
pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of
friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate
a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as
possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 251 08 77, www.restorantan.ru. Open
24hrs. €€. PAGSW

Beer Restaurants
Kozlovica
Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub
from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden
furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech
food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied
by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky
Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour.
QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAVSW
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Russian summer menu

The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty
warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get
through the bitterly cold winter months, but come
summer some special warm weather dishes also make
their way on to the Russian menu.
Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include
kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern
European drink that only ever usually appears in summer. Made from fermented rye bread, this soft drink
has a very distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not
and yes, you can really taste the bread in there too.
As summer is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink
served very cold is also very popular in summer as are
other sweeter berry juice based drinks known as kompot, which can be made from practically any berry that
you may find.
Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and
many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may
often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tasting brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made
from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July.
Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer
as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a summer’s day fishing on the country’s lakes or river. The
ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okroshka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers
and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different
meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then
the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or
sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is
as it sounds, quite an acquired taste…
The main course. Salads are universally popular year
round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest
staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real
powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish
kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then
grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is
the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actually originates from the south it is often accompanied
with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy
ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen
(green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a
piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As
it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants
usually serve up the best shashliks.
June - July 2015

23

Where to eat
Pilsner Paveletskaya
Already seeing almost three million people through its
doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold
a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef,
Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech
cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of other
specialties and large salads are on offer as well. Also at
Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya
ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (Polyanka),
Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD-5, Ozerkovskaya
nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.
pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW

Cafes and Bakeries
Bulka
Although the staff are smiling away and the interior is a
fashionable minimalist leather and brown, full glass frontage affair, you may prefer just to pop in here and take
something to go, given that with the ovens and glass surround it has the potential to get very stuffy. If it isn’t too
hot though, by all means settle in and enjoy a fantastic
range of pastries - their fruit pies are incredibly rich and
tartly sweet creations and the fresh bread that goes into
the sandwiches cannot be faulted. In fact everything
laid out in the endless display counter is as good as it
looks. Also at Bol. Gruzinskaya 69 (metro Belorusskaya),
Sokolniki park (metro Sokolniki) and Otrada shopping
mall (Pyatnitskoe shosse, 7km from metro Mitino).QE-2,
Ul. Pokrovka 19, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 95
57, www.bulkabakery.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. €. PASW
Coffee Pyu
One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn
left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic
coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as
delicious cakes and homemade main meals to enjoy. In a
confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which
is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and
sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact
the place is so laidback, you almost get the feeling they
wouldn’t even mind if you did. As you can see the chefs
are working on simple light lunch meals such as salads,
homemade pastas and pizzas, which can be ordered in
large portions for sharing as well as individual servings.
Occasional live acoustic concerts add to the soothing
and tranquil refuge.QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 9 bldg.1,
MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83, www.coffeepiu.com. Cafe 08:00 - 23:00. Sat. and Sun. 10:00 - 23:00.
Beauty Salon 10:00 - 22:00. €. PAGW
Le Pain Quotidien
This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its
rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long
wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls perfect for
dipping your croissant in, Belgian tartines (open-face sandwiches), salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many lo24 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat
cations have excellent street terraces including this one just
a short distance from Red Square, and all the ‘LPQ’ (as they
are affectionately nicknamed by locals) also run great value
lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations across
the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), Pyatnitskaya ul. 6/1, bldg.
1 (metro Novokuznetskaya) and Lesnaya ul. 5 (metro Belorusskaya).QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 984 90 94, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW
Shtolle
Stolle does pies. Traditional old school Russian pies from old
recipes that are unlike any others found in the city. And they
do them well. Pies with chicken and fish fillings are scrumptious, in particular the herring (selyodka) one is amazing.
It’s the one shaped like a fish. They also do a range of berry
filled pies and a small selection of salads and soups but the
pies receive top billing. Their takeaway service is almost as
popular as their sit down cafe. Also at Ul. Pokrovka 1 (metro
Kitay Gorod).QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 3/4, bldg. 1, 2nd floor,
MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 499 922 16 07, www.stolle.
ru. Open 08.00 - 22:00. €. PNGSW

food from former
republics

One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet
past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine
from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian,
but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Kazakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine
which appears all over the place. Although generally
quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the
fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on
every menu - food from this part of the world is also
a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of
the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the
world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian
khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken
in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and
pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and
lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian
dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Caucasian
Barashka
You fancy eating something other than European cuisine?
Try restaurant Barashka, where they serve excellent Azerbaijani food. The atmosphere is cozy, the staffs are friendly
and the dishes are undoubtedly of high quality. Traditional
dishes include grilled meat, fish and vegetables, and also
delicious starters such as qutab; thinly rolled dough filled
with either greens, pumpkin, meat or cheese. The restaurant is often busy and attracts both Russians as well as
people with roots in Azerbaijan.QA-3, Novy Arbat 21,
bldg. 1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 37 30, www.
novikovgroup.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAW
Gayane’s
An informal restaurant serving real Armenian home food.
Great examples of the region’s specialities can all be tasted here, like for example the flat stuffed breads zhingalov
khats and the delicious lamadjo as well as filling spiced
minced meatballs (kyufta). Matsoni (a kind of fermented
yoghurt sauce) is an essential accompaniment. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back
and relaxing with fine cognac is a sure sign of Gayane’s
authenticity. Adventurous diners may want to test themselves on the unusual khash soup made from various cow
bits and said to be the ‘food of heroes’. The street is located directly across the Garden ring from Smolenskaya (dark
blue line) metro station.QA-3, 2-y Smolensky per. 1/4,
MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 11 60, www.gayanes.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAVSW
Khachapuri
An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior
that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and
in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese
bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big
thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied
by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely
with homemade fruit drinks.The tables are all cramped together giving the place a noisy diner feeling, complimented
by a particularly eclectic clientele. Also at Krivokolenny per.
10, bldg. 5 (metro Chistye Prudy) and Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro
Kievskaya).QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00
- 01:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAVEGSW
Noev Kovcheg
The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and
even a pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow’s finest. The venue was opened on the
17th of the 7th month - the day when Noah’s ark is said
to have ran aground. The menu offers many classic shish
kebab dishes, backed up by a plethora of fine wines.QD-3,
Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917
07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
PAVGSW
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June - July 2015

25

Where to eat

Looking for

expats,
tourists &
businesspeople?

Where to eat
Saperavi
Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings - no plastic grape vines and water
features here - instead its bright colours, stylish lighting,
comfy chairs and a little light house music. The menu does
hold good classics like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri (stuffed
cheese bread), but also adds its own twists on things, as
for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They
do an excellent job of explaining the ins and outs of all the
exciting dishes on offer and how best to accompany them
and if your here at a weekday lunch time the bounteous
meal deals are a steal. Add in thirst-quenching homemade
lemonades and reasonably priced wines and you are on
to a winner. They also have a restaurant on Pokrovka ul.
5, bldg. 5.QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 623 89 93, www.saperavicafe.
com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. €.
PAVGSW

European
Björn
As soon as the doors of Björn were opened to the Moscow
public the word spread very quickly. In the evenings this
laconic, nature-inspired and utterly Scandinavian place
has very few free tables. The secret to Björn’s success is, of
course, the typical contemporary Scandinavian approach
to gastronomy: an abundance of rich, imaginative flavors
harmonic with nature without any pretentiousness. The
head chef - straight from Denmark - ensures that everything guests taste is in complete accordance with the best
northern cuisines have to offer. Scandinavian specialties
such as venison, salmon, herring and cod taste even better with a friendly staff and a delightful northern drinks
menu!QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 3, MNovokuznetskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 953 90 59, www.bjrn.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€. PAGW
Extra Virgin
The simple and chic interior of this Italian-style restaurant
attracts many Muscovites and expats during the day. A
complimentary olive plate is served with—you guessed
its - extra virgin olive oil and the olives taste as if they came
straight from the tree. The friendly staff serves up delicious
pizzas, pastas and risottos as well as fresh, tender fish and
meat from the grill. This vibrant restaurant satisfies every
occasion, whether you want to have a quick business
lunch or a cosy dinner with friends.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka
17, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 967 102 71 97, www.
evgrill.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €.
PAGW

Call
26 Moscow In Your Pocket

Food Embassy
Everything about Food Embassy screams hip. From their
trendy music indoors to the Miami vibe outdoors, you’ll
only find the coolest cats here. As appearances go their
décor is faultless, and this is mirrored by their presentation of food, which too was perfect. Though there’s a clear
moscow.inyourpocket.com

emphasis on quality over quantity, you won’t hear any
complaints from us about that!QD-1, Prospekt Mira 26,
bldg. 8, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 256 04 03, www.
foodembassy.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. €€. PTAEGW
Lucien
Lucien recreates the style, sophistication and tastes of the
Russian nobility in the 19th and early 20th Century. The
story starts as soon as you enter the door and are greeted
by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a gorgeous
Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees and pristine white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu you
are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired
cuisine. Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with
smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail,
duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list goes on. All the
mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending
on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or Russian
pancakes stuffed with porcini mushrooms. If you are in a
large group try out the Samovar option - tea from a real
Russian samovar with all the traditional accompaniments.
QUl. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7)
495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
€€€. PTAGW
Molon Lave
A new Greek restaurant is now serving Moscow’s discerning foodies and gourmands. The brainchild of a “Sovietproduced Greek”, Alexey Karolidis, Molon Lave serves
up the most authentic tzatziki, horiatiki, moussaka and
kolokithokeftedes that the capital has to offer. And it’s no
wonder, after all the head chef Stamatis Tsilias was invited
to Russia especially for this delicious project. Those who
really know their Greek specialties will be delighted to find
real, traditional retsina (white/rosé resinated wine), as well
as other wines from Greece and further afar, Greek ouzo
and metaxa.QA-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 39, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 272 00 47. €€. AEGSW
Scandinavia
An icon amongst Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has
been providing smiley service for almost twenty years
now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish
goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs.
Not everything is from the north, as their bar menu also
has a hefty and popular burger. The central location and
calm international atmosphere means there are more than
a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially
on Fridays service can get slow.QB-2, Maly Palashevsky
per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. €€. PTAGSW

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in Moscow and find out about all the latest gigs
check out our website moscow.inyourpocket.com
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International
Beer & Brut
Something for the gentlemen (beer) and for the ladies
(brut) - that’s the concept behind Beer & Brut. Situated in an
old mansion, B&B creates a pleasant atmosphere for serious
people who don’t take themselves too seriously thanks to its
eclectic interior with a mural consisting of a random assortment of protruding objects. The menu boasts a refreshing
price to quality ratio, with a wide range of dishes to perfectly
complement both beer and wine. Beer comes in all forms commercial and craft - and the wine is divided into simple,
understandable options for all budgets. The summer terrace is perfect for kicking back and relaxing!QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 26, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 965 250 26 26. Open
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTASW

Delicatessen
Delicatessen definitely falls into the category of hidden
treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the
coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colourful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down
in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar,
enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite
things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta
and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say the
pizzas are the best in town, others say it’s the nicoise salad.
For us feeling you’ve been let in on a great little secret is
the real winning element. Reservations recommended.
QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy
Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PAEGW
Deti Raika
It’s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to
the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with
a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and
journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki
or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and
the owner’s favourite film. The varied menu offers anything
from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some
tasty fish dishes. With live music in the weekends, ranging
from jazz to lounge and even French chansons this place
comes recommended.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PTAEW
June - July 2015

27

Where to eat
Filial
If you are young or- more importantly - young at heart and
looking for a memorable, atmospheric place to have dinner, then stop by at Filial. This grand café-style restaurant
features a dark wood and green accented interior and is
always filled with the warm chatter of Moscow’s dynamic
young population. Though this place is worth a visit just
for a glass of wine, you really should have lunch or dinner
and try one of the revitalizing salads or the tasty noodle
plates. In terms of quality, the food certainly stands out
from what you get in Moscow’s mainstream restaurants.
QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 3, bldg. 1, MChistye prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 621 21 43, www.filialmoscow.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAG
Funny Cabany
Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congregate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet
modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive
barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from
homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender
steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non
meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous
portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident
micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on. In the summer their large rooftop
terrace is a great addition, with 2 bars, a grill, barbecue
parties, brunches and lots of parties.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25
02, www.funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri and Sat until last guest. €€. PTAEGW
Holy Fox
Thanks to Holy Fox enjoying sophisticated food only a few
minutes from Red Square is now a real possibility. The minimalist interiors were designed by one of the owners, an architect who oversaw the renovation of Moscow’s beloved
Krymskaya Embankment. The lovely and original dishes are
courtesy of the chef, who learned the secrets of his cooking in Asia, which are noticeable in almost every dish. This
creative approach to food is also apparent when it comes
to the drinks menu. A wide range of homemade alcoholic
drinks can be tried at the bar.QD-3, Bol. Cherkassky per.
15-17, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 111 08 08, www.
holyfoxcafe.com. Tue - Fri 12:00 - 16:00 and 18:00 - 24:00.
Sat and Sun 14:00 - 24:00. Mon closed. €€. GW

28 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat
Izia Grill
What started as a hipster craze seems to be going mainstream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi and Izia
Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the
trend. It’s a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site
of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new décor
is hardly revolutionary the change in cuisine is striking.
Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get
a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions,
but usually have snack-sized price tags attached. It’s sitdown street food rather than fine dining, but it works well
as a neighborhood café. Also at Ul. Lva Tolstogo 16 (metro
Park Kultury).QD-2, Bol. Lublyanka ul. 24, MLubyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 623 08 48, www.izia-grill.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €. PAEGSW
Ragout
A smart-casual ‘city-cafe’ atmosphere is well complemented by an equally simple and well-thought out menu. Despite the relatively restricted choice, it’s still impossible to
choose, but fear not, standards are high across the board.
Vegetarians will also be delighted to see there are lots of
exciting things for them to eat too. Breakfasts here are
also great and Sunday is an excellent time to visit when
they have their informal family roast Sunday lunch. Also
at Olimpisky pr. 16 bldg. 5 (metro Prospekt Mira).QA-1,
Ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya 69 (entrance from 2-ya Brestskaya), MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 662 64 58, www.
caferagout.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PSW
Saxon + Parole
This high-end American restaurant is an excellent replica
of the one in New York. Situated in the romantic neighborhood of Patriarshy Prudy, with the possibility of sitting near
an open window in the summer, and cozy indoor seating,
it is the perfect place to hang out at the end of the day or
to host a business lunch. The menu offers a wide range of
meat and fish dishes as well as delicious starters, which are
all prepared with fresh and largely local ingredients.QB-2,
Spiridonevsky per. 12/9, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 903 755
03 43, www.saxonandparole.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. GSW
Sky Lounge
Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you
can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic
seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance.
Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind
panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience
by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide
range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly
delightful and the portions are more generous than you
will see almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and
filled with all kinds of treasures.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd
floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75,
www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00
- 01:00. €€€. PAEGSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Townhouse
A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and
a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every
continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests
and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply
cannot be missed! The warm octopus salad is the most
delightful starter for any meal. An après lunch or dinner
coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its
dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and
a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from
book readings to jazz band performances.QD-5, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 03, www.mercure.
com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW

White Rabbit
Yes, it’s cliché to say, but finding your way up to this magical
place really does feel a bit like Alice chasing that rabbit down
the hole. First make sure you enter the Passage building from
the right side entrance (next to the massive building site). This is
the only way to find the lift. You then have to get in two separate lifts before you finally pop out at the atrium at the top with
a glorious view over the city centre and its various skyscrapers.
Upscale White Rabbit does serve some truly outstanding and
memorable food and the kitchen is not likely to disappoint.
The menu is imaginative and filled with treasures too long to
list here, so just take your pick and enjoy.QA-3, Smolenskaya
pl. 3 (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. Open
12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PAW

Italian
Florentini City Cafe
This is a great place to plop down on one of the couches
after a long day spent walking in the city. The cosy-chic
natural wood interior and the open kitchen with woodburning stove and fresh fish waiting to be prepared make
you want to order everything on the menu. In fact all
dishes are truly tasty and made from fresh ingredients,
however their huge selection of thin-crust pizza is what
this place is known for and why they classify themselves as
an Italian restaurant.QE-2, Staraya Basmannaya ul. 9/1,
MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 608 03 50. Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEW
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Flotilla Radisson restaurant
One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to
know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian
accent as it plies a route along the Moskva River, taking
in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests
to Moscow to join us on the route, it’s regularly got the
thumbs-up, and with winter fast approaching it’s already
time to start thinking about breaking the ice - literally and
figuratively - over a tasty risotto on the water.QA-3, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab.,
Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, www.radisson-cruise.
ru. €€€. PTAESW
Jamie’s Italian
Mamma mia, it’s finally here! Fans of affordable, no-frills
authentic Italian can now find a safe haven in Jamie’s Italian right across from Moscow’s Kremlin. Since its founding in Oxford in 2007, Jamie’s Italian has spread to over 30
cities worldwide but remained true to Jamie’s passion for
the Italian way of life: “good food for everyone, no matter
what”. The menu offers everything you would expect to
find in a restaurant aspiring to the rustic Italian feel - food
and beverage-wise - without breaking the bank!QC2,
Okhotny Ryad 2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 968 544 92
35, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€. PTASW
Osteria della Piazza Bianca
A relaxed Italian atmosphere combined with European
comfort makes the Osteria della Piazza Bianca a special
place in Moscow. The panoramic views and open kitchen
- where Italian chefs prepare your meal right in front of
you - create an inviting ambience. Choosing between the
various fresh Italian dishes can be hard enough, but luckily
the sommelier will be on hand in case you hesitate about
the wine. Located just across from Belorusskaya metro, the
Osteria is perfect for an end-of-the-working-day dinner or
a stylish business lunch.QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5a, MBelorusskaya, tel. +7 495 508 25 17, www.osteriabianca.ru.
24hrs. €€. PAVGW
Tarantino
Looking for an unpretentious place where it’s all about the
food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best
with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street
but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other
Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is
homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal
with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there’s an extensive “mozzarella bar” where you can
choose what you’d like on your plate or in a doggy bag.
Menu specialties: grilled meat and seafood and a wide assortment of traditional Italian pizzas and pastas.QB-3, Ul.
Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35,
www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 06:00. €€. PAEGW
June - July 2015

29

Where to eat
Seafood
Gastronomica-Fish
If you love fish, once you’ve stepped off chaotic Leninsky
prospekt and passed through the door of cool, calming
Gastronomica you will be delighted you made the effort.
This is definitely one of the best fish restaurants in Moscow. On the main menu there’s things like Chilean sea
bass, turbot and sole to choose from, as well as the closer
to home trout and salmon, all of which can be cooked any
number of ways from baked in a coal stove to steamed
with wine - delicious! There’s also a good range of seafood
based salads, soups, pastas and risottos - we particularly
liked the sterlet consomme - as well as mouthwatering
mussels to start. As it is quite some way from the metro,
it may be wise to come here by car. In summer terrace is
open.QLeninsky pr. 57, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7)
495 641 11 43, www.gastronomicafish.ru. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. €€€. PAVGSW
Porto Maltese in Vegas Crocus City
Ceilings covered with sale cloth that looks like it’s moving
in the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls adorned
with paintings of maritime settings - all this creates an “at
sea” mood once you step into the newly opened Porto
Maltese restaurant at Vegas Crocus City shopping mall.
This is the fifth Moscow restaurant by the worldwide
Mediterranean cuisine network and is a perfect place
to wind down after a long day of shopping with family
or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood are laid out on a
cushion of ice next to the kitchen for guests to pick out
what they want to eat. Exceptional service, an original
and exclusive approach to seafood and a lengthy wine
list are sure to impress even the most experienced haute
cuisine connoisseurs.QVegas Crocus City, MKAD 65-66
km, 4th floor, MMyakino, tel. (+7) 495 236 10 15, www.
portomaltese.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 24:00. €€. TNGW

Steak Houses
Butchery Bar and Grill
A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks
and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection
leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurant’s culinary focus.
The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the
feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete
with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to
happily relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1,
MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom.
ru/page-butchery. 24hrs. €€. PAGW
Chicago Prime Steakhouse
Everyone may tell you it’s the best, and we are going to
too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with no
doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece
of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large
salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just
as accomplished and the portions are huge. If you can’t af30 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat
ford to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at
the bar. A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the
winning combination.QC-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 17 17, www.chicagoprime.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€€.
PAGSW
GOODBEEF
This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their
meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet
mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it
arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and
overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices
are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be
sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The
business lunch is particularly good value for money.QD-2,
Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7)
495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
€€. PAEGSW

Vegetarian
Avocado
Vegetarian cafes are always empty, right? Not this one. Come
meal time it can be hard to get a table here. Cheery fruit and
vegetable pictures on the wall suffice for décor. There is an
extensive range of teas on the menu, and the food is delicious. Tofu, spinach and mushrooms feature prominently.
The evening live music includes a rather hip harp player, but
there is also guitar for those looking for something more
conventional. Try not to get too annoyed with the staff who
have a tendency to be a bit dippy. Also at ul. Tverskaya 5/6.
QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12/2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7)
495 621 77 19, www.avocadocafe.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €. PASW
Fresh
This Canadian restaurant and juice bar is on a mission to
prove that vegetarian dining can be filling, exciting and
varied and does not necessarily need to involve stereotypical joss sticks, Indian tapestries and variations on the lentil.
Interior-wise it’s as fresh as they come, all clean minimalist
lines, favouring industrial materials and rough edges over
cuddly pictures of ethnic tribes. On the food front Fresh gets
full marks for providing an experience that both vegetarians
and meat eaters can salivate over - huge wraps bursting
with scrumptious goodies and noodles bowls brimming
with both delicate and fiery Asian flavours are just some
of the long list of hits. Also at Ermolaevsky per. 10/7 (metro
Tverskaya).QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 11, MTeatralnaya,
tel. (+7) 965 278 90 89, www.freshrestaurant.ru. Open
11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGSW

Ya vegetarianets – I am a vegetarian
Bez myasa – without meat
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Summer Terraces

Summer is finally here and what a wonderful time it is to
be living it up on the city’s many summer terraces and
beer gardens. In Moscow you’ve a whole range of places
that you can perch up at and enjoy the sun. From May until September Moscow is filled with al fresco drinking and
dining options - from the cafes lined up along Moscow’s
main walking streets Stary Arbat and Kamergersky pereulok, to the open roofs and balconies of old factories and
swanky high rise shopping centres and on into the secluded gardens and courtyards of the city’s back streets.
Aist
QB-2, Mal. Bronnaya ul. 8/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
499 940 70 40, www.aistcafe.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
€€. PAEGW
Bar Strelka
QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PTALEGW
Dacha na Pokrovke
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 18/15 (entrance from Podkolokolny per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95,
www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€.
PAEGSW
Domozhilov
QArtPlay, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 10, bldg. 10,
MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.domogilov.
ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€.
PAEGSW
Food Embassy
QD-1, Prospekt Mira 26, bldg. 8, MProspekt Mira,
tel. (+7) 495 256 04 03, www.foodembassy.ru.
Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
PTAEGW
Gogol Club
QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya,
tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclub.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEGW
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Khachapuri
QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €. PAVEGSW
Le Pain Quotidien
QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
495 984 90 94, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW
Odessa Mama
QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.
ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. €€.
PAVEGSW
Osteria della Piazza Bianca
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5a, MBelorusskaya, tel. +7
495 508 25 17, www.osteriabianca.ru. 24hrs. €€.
PAVGW
Paul
QA-3, Ul. Arbat 54/2, bldg. 1 (entrance on Garden
Ring), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 16 38; Romanov per. 2/6, bldg. 7, MAleksandrovsky Sad, tel.
(+7) 905 792 39 05; ul. Lesnaya 7, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 903 138 01 05, www.paul-russia.ru. Open 07:30 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. €. PASW
Scandinavia
QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56
30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
PTAGSW
Sky Lounge
QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru.
Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€.
PAEGSW
The Hudson Bar
QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)
495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 06:00. PAEGW
VICOLO (Marriott Royal Aurora)
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7)
495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.
com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. €€€. PTAGW

June - July 2015

31

Features
Where to eat
The Russian beer
revolution
For decades Soviet Russia could only manage two sorts of
beer – ‘Pivo est’ (we have beer) or ‘Pivа nеt’ (we have no
beer). In a land where vodka was the tipple of choice, mastery of malt and hop was not a big priority, and while postSoviet years brought an explosion in the quantity of brews
on offer the quality of most Russian-made beer was almost
as painful as the resultant hangover.
Happily, however, things are changing. The craft beer
revolution that has swept through North America and
Europe has arrived here and a clutch of small-scale breweries is popping up to produce some interesting and distinctive offerings.

A shot from the famous Soviet comedy
“Kidnapping, Caucasian Style”, directed by Leonid Gaidai, 1967

What to drink
The Pale Ale, derived from a British beer prepared for export to India, is perhaps the most popular offering. This
light, hoppy, spicy brew comes in several forms from different breweries, including India Pale Ale, American Pale
Ale and the somewhat contradictory Dark Pale Ale. Ones to
look out for include Red Machine and Black Sails, both by
Moscow’s Victory Arts brewery.
Stouts and porters have a long pedigree in Russia, with the
traditional Imperial Stout first being brewed for the royal
court in St. Petersburg. It’s back on the menu in a big way
today: Jaws Oatmeal Stout is a rich, tasty beer from the Ural
town of Zarechny, near Yekaterinburg; Tula’s Salden’s Brewery offers an Extra Stout worth looking out for. For a slightly
different taste, the Coffee Stout made by Petersburg’s Vasiliostrov Brewery is also worth checking out.
Aside from the companies mentioned above, St. Petersburg’s AF Brewery (the name stands for ‘Anti-Factory) also
has a burgeoning reputation.

32 Moscow In Your Pocket

Nightlife
Where to drink it
Most Moscow bars tend to offer a limited range of the
usual suspects – mass market, mass produced lagers
with little to distinguish them, perhaps joined by a few
eye-wateringly expensive imported brews. Happily a few
places have sprung up to serve more specialized beers
and local craft brews that often undercut big-name imported brands.
Entuziast
Tucked away in the back of a courtyard behind one of
Moscow’s plushest shopping streets this place is part biker
café, part beer Mecca. There’s a good selection of draught
brews on offer and a well-stocked fridge full of interesting
bottles, plus a small selection of merchandise from the old
Entuziast motorcycle brand that used to zip around the
USSR. Sandwiches and bar snacks are available, and so is
tea and coffee if you come on your bike.QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 7/5, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 340 78 52.
Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Craft Republic
Over the road from the Chelsea gastropub, this underground watering hole has a no-frills vibe more suited to a
ryumashka than a bar. But it also has a range of around 20
beers on tap and a huge selection of bottled beverages.
The clientele is young and hipsterish, but not oppressively
so, and the absence of TV screens is a rare blessing for
guests who want a quiet pint and a good conversation.
The only thing missing is a food menu.QС-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 9, bldg. 7, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 89 84. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00.
PAW
One more pub
Next to the shiny office blocks of Belaya Ploshchad,
One More Pub is a fairly regular bar that has decided
to take a chance on offering a few interesting beers.
The draught menu usually has a couple of local craft
beers available and there’s often an interesting imported ale or two to be found as well. Best of all, on
Sundays there’s a special offer, perfect for a lazy afternoon of beer and televized football.QUl. Butyrsky Val
5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 99 80, www.
onemorepub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 03:00. PAGW
Vse tvoi druzya (All your friends)
This little street is the epicenter of Moscow’s craft revolution; while Craft Republic is the no-frills approach to bar
management, Druzya is tucked behind a quirky gift shop
and combines good beer with TV sports and weekend DJ
sets. A different vibe - instead of seats, just grab a barrel
and a cushion - makes for a different audience, but the
commitment to unearthing interesting brews is just as
strong.QC-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per 12/27, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 925 562 89 90. Open 11:00 - 06:00.
AGW
moscow.inyourpocket.com

The original city that doesn’t sleep, Moscow has everything
going on under those bright neon signs. Whether you’re after
an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control
policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingey
dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole
up til the wee small hours, you won’t be disappointed.

live music CLUBS
ArteFAQ
By day it’s an ideal place for a coffee and a book, come the
evening it becomes a reasonable venue for a restaurant
or cocktail date and at night all kinds of live music kicks
off in the basement. Colourfully decorated and with little
mezzanine areas jutting out here and there it’s all a bit of
a maze full of snug corners and bustling dining areas. FAQ
manages to stay on the right side of bohemian cool - mismatched furniture, exposed brick walls and bookshelves
put the art in the name, without falling into the over-thetop trap and the whole atmosphere is complimented by
a jazz-funk soundtrack. The menu can be disappointing
in terms of the price to quality ratio, but most people find
the atmosphere makes up for any such disappointments.
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 32, bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 650 39 71, www.artefaq.ru. Open 12:00 06:00. PAEW
B2 Club
One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers
live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five
floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of
2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every
kind of music imaginable in just one night - if you can
manage to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike flock to the
place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands
play at low prices. As well as the jazz club, disco club,
latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a
summer courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy
night out.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.b2club.ru. Open
12:00 - 06:00. PEG

Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da
Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club, attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large numbers.
With live music and drinks flowing, you’ll inevitably stumble
across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast; it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit the spot so don’t worry
about that hunger craving after a few drinks, they have the
perfect cure!QD-3, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jao-da.ru. Open 11:00 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 08:00. PAEW

Bars
Bar Strelka
The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this
bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become
a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since
it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup
where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting
you in. The small dance floor fills or completely empties
depending on the weekend DJs. In the summer the delightful roof terrace with an incredible view is the place
to see and be seen at any hour of the day or night and
is a lovely place to relax with a drink and a plate of their
delicious nibbles.QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory,
Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00
- 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. PTALEGW

Duma
This place is not only literally underground it’s also
through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk
music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff.
Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up
the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic
- old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound
whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected
on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as
the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg.
3V (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00
- 06:00. AEW
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June - July 2015

33

Nightlife
Darling, I’ll call you later
Half way between pub and bar this curiously named
drinking den is a good place for those with a big crowd of
friends who actually want to chat with each other. Music
is background indie-rock stuff, bar snacks are plenty, there
are a few TVs for those needing to keep up with the sport
and plenty of large tables. By mixing a more upscale drinks
menu with a downbeat interior and vibe it draws in both
wealthier students and professionals alike.QB-1, 2-ya
Tverskaya -Yamskaya ul.10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
926 520 77 80, www.darlingbars.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEGW
Kvartira 44
The main draw of this branch of the popular french style
cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace,
which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that
in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap
bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow,
and there’s no piano, but despite that it’s still one of the
nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm
and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in.QC-4, Ul. Mal.
Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34,
www.kv44.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAEW
La Bottega Wine Bar and Cafe
Located in amongst the big banks and consultants of the
White Square skyscraper cluster, the market for this upscale wine bar is obvious. The wine selection is extensive,

Nightlife
albeit mostly European in focus and prices cross the whole
gamut from 1,500 a bottle to 15,000 for the most exclusive
vintages from the cellar. The lighting is dim and the combination of floor-to-ceiling windows, aged leather sofas and
bare brick walls certainly add the right kind of understated
atmosphere to those sophisticated deal-breaking drinks.
La Bottega also serves various French and Italian snacks to
accompany the wine.QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 213 30 88, www.labottega.ru. Open
09:00 - 24:00, Thur, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PAGW

Club Roxbury
In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury
and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests
sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most
beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overdrive.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 22:00 07:00. PAW

MyBar
This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow
cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking
for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well
and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local
office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it
offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies
vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some
great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend.
Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from rock
and blues bands. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later
on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd
gets lively.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su. Open 18:00
until 06:00. PAEG

Gogol Club
Something is surely going to happen here, any minute
now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got
that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus
tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and
the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor
festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of
time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane and there are plenty of quiet nooks to escape to if things get too hectic near the dancefloor. The
music is bohemian European stuff you probably won’t remember the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here.
QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclub.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEGW

The Hudson Bar
This smart American bar brings some much needed attention
to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square
business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back
from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and
instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving alone
to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the
booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and
friendly and the hostess is there to help not hinder. In summer
they open their beautiful terrace.QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10,
MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.
ru. 12:00 until last guest. PAGW

Clubs
Club Garage
One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998),
Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday
/ Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties.
Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah
menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The
crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of
the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly
atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night
out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of
Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from
the end of April until October.QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8,
MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.
ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW
34 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Icon Club
The extravagant and glamorous Icon club, opened in September 2013, can accommodate 2000 over its main dance
floor, separate bar and dance floor, VIP areas and a roof terrace with superb views of Moscow at dawn. Though men
will have to pay to enter, it is worth it for top DJs taking
their lead from the most recent trends in Ibiza, Berlin and
New York.QC-4, Bolotnaya nab. 9, MKropotkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 364 09 09, www.iconclub.ru. Open closed,
Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
PALEGW
Propaganda
A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a
chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is
attentive and swift so for better or worse you’re never long
without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portionwise and the lounge-house sounds put everyone into
their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick
in. Also one of the oldest clubs around in Moscow, they’ve
already notched up 11 years and still invite foreign djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights.QD-2, Bol.
Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57
32, www.propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. PENGW

To read about even more
clubs and bars in Moscow
check out our website
moscow.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Cocktail Bars
All Time Bar
Dmitri Sokolov, Moscow’s new tsar of the cheap cocktail bar
has opened yet another open all hours joint for those who like
imaginative cocktails but hate the pretention and high prices
that often come with them. Service can get a little slow when
it’s busy, so try order at the bar and be prepared for the music
to dramatically increase in volume after midnight.QC-2, Ul.
Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
629 08 11, www.alltimebar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW

City Space
The view is heavenly. There are no other words for it when
you are on the 34th floor looking out at all of Moscow beneath you. Then the waitress brings you your personally
mixed cocktail. Here they know the classic cocktails from
the Bloody Mary to the Martini backwards. Regular guest
mixologists are constantly bringing fresh ideas to the menu,
while their own favourite creations such as the incredible
Trans-Siberian make great use of local flavours.QSwissotel
Krasnye Holmy, Kosmodamianskaya nab. 52, bldg. 6,
34th floor, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 53 57, www.
cityspacebar.com. Open 17:00 - 03:00. PALE
Dream Bar
Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the prices are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inventive and tasty.
A popular hangout at the end of the day for the after-work
crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient
and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend,
when the loud pumping dance music, indicates it’s time to
take off the ties and let your hair down.QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68,
www.dreambar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW
Time Out Bar
An unassuming cocktail bar in historic surroundings, which
lets the view do the talking. The menu offers different styles
of cocktails for different times of day, for example champagne based ‘breakfast’ drinks or a samovar filled with one
of many ice-cold tea-based cocktails for ‘5 o’clock tea’. The
early evening jazz soundtrack is a nice addition as is the
huge open-air terrace and original period features such as
the Soviet realist mural on the ceiling.QB-1, Bol. Sadovaya
ul. 5/1 (Hotel Peking, 13th floor), MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 229 01 80, timeoutbar.ru. Open 17:00 - 24:00,
Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PAEW
June - July 2015

35

What to see

What to see
NEXT TO RED SQUARE
Alexandrovsky Gardens
The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to
take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of
the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight
of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to
the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change
ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal
flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.

The Kremlin

Inside the Kremlin

The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively
ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking
the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In
the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin,
the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient
city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of
the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red
walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical,
through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet
modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there
are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the
citadel an essential conquest.
Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took
Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are
a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having
bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom
located near the ticket office, under the gate.
A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself,
along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient
buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a
separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which
will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be
purchased before you enter the Kremlin.
Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s
Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for
which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to
check before you enter the Kremlin.

Cathedral of the Archangel Michael
A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian
rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian
renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets
and white stonework.

36 Moscow In Your Pocket

Annunciation Cathedral
This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482.
The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most
valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time
including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes
the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.
Church of the Deposition of the Robes
Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s
robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople
(now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled
in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this
church notably has stained glass windows. Along with
some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption
The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption
Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable
for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with
the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing
over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they
caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the
last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.
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Kremlin Armoury
You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th
Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s
gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are
the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely
glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on
them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin.
QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49,
www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The
Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30,
16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket
office in Alexandrovsky sad.
Lenin Mausoleum
On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the
founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you
forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No
bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure
you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead
but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.
St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor)
Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was
built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat
of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s
position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from
outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also
worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces
of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a
stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated
with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one
direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes
above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit
inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red
Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.
saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl.
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river cruises
A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best
ways to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off,
we leave behind the Moscow International Business
centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’. Across the river
is the ‘other White House’, the house of the Russian
government. A few minutes’ sailing takes us to the
Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoy’s Kitty
and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and
Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque
walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite
bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park. The silhouette of
a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a
glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State
University, the world’s tallest educational building and
the ‘big sister’ of the seven. Passing Luzhniki Stadium,
we reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky Park.
At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great
marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its
creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed
the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour
opposite. Looking at its imposing domes, it’s hard to
believe that this was once a gigantic outdoor pool. On
Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-coloured
arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas church,
is the House on the Embankment, built to house the
Soviet elite. From the river we’ve got perfect views of
the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it as we
arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a millennia St Basil’s idiosyncratic
domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something
so beautiful ever again.
QA-3, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina
pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.
radisson-cruise.ru. From Pier Ukraina and from
pier Gorky Park boats leave every day starting from
13:00. It is advisable to book tickets well in advance
(tickets can also be bought online). Check the full
schedule and prices online. PAUKW

June - July 2015

37

What to see
Churches
and Monasteries
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to
look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many
blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the
thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly
restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000
and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church
at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century
cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon.
The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant
swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin
topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During
excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view from the collonade. As it is a
working place of worship women are expected to cover
their heads and everyone should dress conservatively.
No cameras or mobile phones should be used.QB-4, Ul.
Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28
47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00.
Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for
up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call
(+7) 495 637 28 47).

Novodevichy Monastery
Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded
by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a
fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic fouronion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back
to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters
from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and
peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be
sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while
you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque
pond beyond the walls.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Admission 300Rbl.
38 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see
Novospassky Monastery
Situated on the river and
surrounded by gardens,
the walls of this working
monastery date from the
1640s. A quiet place, the
brooding
five-domed
Cathedral of the Saviour
was built in 1645 and attracts a healthy crowd of
observers in the evening
and has lovely frescoes. Women need to cover their
heads and if wearing trousers or jeans they need to don
a wrap around skirt as well.QE-5, Krestyanskaya pl.10,
MKrestyanskaya Zastava, tel. (+7) 495 676 77 13, www.
novospasskiymon.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Admission
free. Guided tours by prior arrangement.

Modern Art Centres
ArtPlay
Thanks to the large building on site housing the
British Design School in
Moscow, this former tea
factory has now become
a hub of artistic activity. In amongst the various converted red brick
factory buildings you will
find numerous design studios and shops selling bespoke interior design works, as
well as large temporary exhibition spaces and small private galleries. Furthermore Artplay also has its fair share of
cool places to eat and drink such as the Art Clumba cafe/
restaurant and the quirky little roof bar Volna. One of the
largest roofs of the complex also has a great cafe-bar with
super views over the surrounding area.QUl. Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 620 08
82, www.artplay.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow)
This new contemporary
space focuses exclusively
on photography and video
art and regularly hosts
great exhibitions many of
which make particularly
good use of the cleverly
designed video exhibition
rooms. The central hallway
and stairwell is one of a
kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases,
vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the
MOMA. A great addition to Moscow’s burgeoning contemporary art scene.QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.
ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50
- 400Rbl. TAW
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Red October Chocolate Factory
One of Moscow’s most beloved manufacturers - the Red
October Chocolate Factory, moved to a site further out
of the city centre a few years ago and as the old building’s conversion into a luxury residential complex slowed
down, the artists moved in. The current residents includes
the Lumiere brothers photography centre that regularly
stages great retrospectives of international and local photographers from the modern age all the way back in to the
early 20th Century. The Art Strelka design college is also
located here and regularly has lectures and workshops as
well as concerts on their outdoor stage. On the food/drink
side, this place is very happening and at the weekend the
area really fills up with party animals heading to one of the
factory’s many clubs.QC-4, Bersenevskaya nab. 6, MKropotkinskaya, www.redok.ru.

Museums
All-Russian Decorative Art Museum
Hidden in a courtyard,
this museum maintains
more than 200 000 pieces
of decorative and folk art
from all over Russia. There
are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and
figurines - the porcelain
from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are
some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings
are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum
also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from
the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to
20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. The museum’s frequent
temporary exhibitions are also worth checking out.QC-1,
Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609
01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue
and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
Children till 7 years old free entrance. NK
Cosmonautics Museum
Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s
race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of
all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original
space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of
part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin
and plenty of artworks relating to man’s obsession with
conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in
space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods
that they flew around the earth in. There’s also a café serving space food and some 3-D shows (for which you have
to pay extra).QPr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 683
79 68, www.kosmo-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 200Rbl.
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Art Deco museum
Art Deco is the art style that
spanned the boom of the roaring
1920s and the bust of the Depression-ridden 1930s. All aspects of
life were influenced by it: design,
fine art, decorative arts, fashion,
film, photography, transport and
product design. Finally, there is a museum in Moscow
dedicated to this impactful art movement. The Art
Deco Museum boasts an impressive collection of more
than 900 sculptures, items of furniture and decorative
art pieces that will take you right back to the 1920s! The
museum is not exactly centrally located but it is situated
on the breath-taking Luzhnetsky Embankment - just an
extremely pleasant 10-minute stroll from the Vorobyovy Gory metro station.QF-6, Luzhnetskaya nab. 2/4,
bldg. 4, MVorobyovy Gory, tel. (+7) 495 639 94 84,
www.artdecomuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 50 - 200Rbl. Children up to 6 years of
age free of charge. PUNW

Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945
Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it
is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on
the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum
houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground
floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English.
Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall
and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition
hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties
involved.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy,
tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www.poklonnayagora.ru. Open
10:00 - 19:30. Thursday 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and
last Thu of the month. Admission 200 - 250Rbl. N

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39

What to see
Icons

No Russian church is complete without its icons –
but what do these ancient images mean, and why
are they there? The tradition came to Kievan Rus following the conversion to Christianity in 988. Little is
known about the artists who painted them – with
a few notable exceptions, such as the great Andrei
Rublev, these were considered works to glorify God,
not celebrate the talent of their makers. At a time
when literacy was unusual, strong visual images
played a vital role in the ritual. These painted icons,
following from Byzantine tradition, were introduced
as a focal point for prayer. Even today, believers continue to address prayers to specific icons, choosing
an image that matches the problem they wish to
share with God. That’s why, for example, icons depicting Prince Pyotr and his peasant bride Fevronia
are associated with prayers concerning family life.
Some of Russia’s most venerated icons have legends
attached to them: they accompanied great armies
into battle and are credited with inspiring victories
and defending the Orthodox faith of the Russian
people. The icon of the Mother of God of Vladimir is
believed to have spared Moscow from invasion on no
less than three occasions. The monastery on Sretenka
was built on the site where, in 1395, Prince Vasily of
Moscow spent the night praying over the icon after it
arrived from the ancient city of Vladimir. The next day
the Mongol Armies of Tamerlane retreated from the
city. Learn more about Russian icons in the Andrey
Rublyev Museum of Ancient Russian Culture and Art
or in the Tretatyakov Gallery.

Take note that most museum ticket offices
close one hour before the official closing time.
Also remember most museums ask you to buy
an extra photography ticket if you would like
to take photos or videos
40 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see
Jewish Museum and Tolerance Center
This large and engaging museum dedicated to the complex
history of Russian Jewry, is thoroughly modern in approach,
favouring personal testimony, archival video footage and
interactive displays - all translated into Russian and English.
The exhibitions are divided chronologically, helping visitors to understand the life of Jewish communities as they
travelled across medieval Europe, settling in shtetls before
moving to the cities. The role of Russian Jewry in public life
in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries is particularly well
presented as is the fate of Soviet Jews and the role of Jewish soldiers during World War II. Visitors of Russian-Jewish
origins will no doubt be particularly interested in hearing
about what it meant to be a ‘Soviet Jew’ and finding out
how and why so many left the USSR. Those expecting to
find just a stark representation of pogroms, holocaust,
hardships and suffering will be pleasantly surprised to find
Russian Jewish history presented as something much more
complex, filled with both struggles and achievements. The
museum can also be reached by taking tram no.19 from
metro Novoslobodskaya.QUl. Obraztsova 11, bldg. 1А,
MMarina Roscha, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 50, www.jewishmuseum.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 400Rbl.

State Central Museum of Contemporary
History of Russia
Start early in the day with
this one. There’s a whole
century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well
documented history to
be seen and absorbed.
Housed in a 1780s mansion
and former premises of
the Moscow English Club,
this grand dame was also
the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has
moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated
in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger
too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired
by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the
great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the
Beatles.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free. N
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State Historical Museum

Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice
ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The
first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great,
and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each
individual hall complements its in-house exhibition, such
as the Novgorod and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. The atmosphere is conducive to both wandering
and musing as the museum guides are, lets say, a little less
protective than usual. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical tit bits. Like
the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn
to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the Great’s
day, and a great portrait gallery to set you straight on who
exactly was who in the Russian aristocracy. The elegant side
of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms
toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There are English
leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter
that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the second.
There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost
of 300Rbl. The small café serves basic Russian snack food,
inexpensive tea and coffee and butterbrodi (Russian open
sandwiches).QC-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl. U
The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts
Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily
intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s art in the form
of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and
representatives of various European schools of painting. In
1924 the museum saw the first addition of a picture gallery,
to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from
the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure
to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit
side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old
plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate
wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The
temperamental audio guides provide the only English
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available. Watch out for long queues at the weekends
when locals pour in to admire the latest exhibitions.QC-3,
Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609
95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 550Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition.
Tretyakov Gallery
For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous
‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start.
Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector
Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892,
it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to
the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s
favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich
and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this
long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled
in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated
information sheets found throughout the museum; there
is always at least one English version hidden amongst the
Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s
20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a
kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 250 - 400Rbl. PU
Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val
Dedicated to Russian art of the 20th Century, this is the
extension part of the Tretyakov project. And a worthy addition it is. Stunningly presented, each work contributes to
the chronological project. Head up to the fourth floor to
begin with the Moscow modernists. Not only is this venue,
in terms of English, one of the friendliest, it is also very well
presented. Everything is explained in English and as well
as the canvas texts there are several multimedia and video
representations providing a historical and political framework to understanding the pieces. Most impressive is the
video of the destruction of the Cathedral, right near to a
full screen window from where you can see the site today.
A visit here is a real history lesson and allows the visitor
to see the Soviet era as the long and complex process it
was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes and ideas and
stages.QB-5, Krymsky Val 10, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7)
499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00
- 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English
audio guide 250Rbl. PU

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41

What to see
Parks and Gardens
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VDNKh)
This massive complex of pavilions buildings whose glory
is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a
throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so
pavilions built to house displays of progress of the great
collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what
is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a
Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex surrounded
by various pavilions in different designs which each represent a Soviet republic and its achievements. Some weekends it is crawling with families and sports enthusiasts.
Space fans should look out for the soaring monument to
space flight and the cosmonautics museum in its base.
If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they mean this
place or the metro station opposite that goes by the same
name.QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00,
www.vvcentre.ru. Park open 09:00 - 23:00. Please see
the website for opening hours of the museums. Mon
closed. Entrance park free. Please see the website for
admission of the museums.
Kolomenskoe Museum Estate
Sprawling and green
Kolomenskoye is a favourite with kids, mums
and dads, old grandmothers and young hipsters alike. The gentle
sloping hills covered
with cherry trees in the
warmer months, the
abundance of seating
and the wafting aroma
of sizzling shaslik from afar put visitors in a cheerful mood.
Remnants of this estate’s past life as a Royal Estate can
be identified in the scattering of different museums like
the beekeeping house and the many churches. It’s also
UNESCO listed. Got Tsar fever? Take a troika ride. Just don’t
bring any beer bought from shops outside of the park or
you could end up getting friendly with the police and
making a deposit to their own beer fund.QPr. Andropova
39, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 615 27 68, www.
mgomz.com. Park open every day 08:00 - 24:00. Museums open 10:00 - 18:00 and closed Mon. Admission to
park is free. Admission museums 30-100Rbl. N
State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe
This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is
one of the quietest stately parks within a reasonable distance of the city. The buildings themselves usually house
historical and contemporary exhibitions from the local
scene. In the winter it‘s a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride and there’s also plenty
of stall selling hot drinks. The formal gardens, which of42 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see
fer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside,
are dotted with neo-classical sculptures, hidden summer
pavilions, while the forested area leading to the small
river is lovely for a lazy stroll. GETTING THERE: From metro
Tushinskaya, Rizhskaya, Dmitrovskaya.Q5 km Ilinskoe
Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.
arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
and Sun from 10:00 - 19:00. Museums and exhibitions
open Wed - Fri 10:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun and holidays10:30
- 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed of the
month. Admission park 50 - 150Rbl, museums 100 350Rbl, all inclusive ticket 500Rbl. UNK

Tsaritsyno
Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town
palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet
with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing
the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins.
Over the ensuing years it became a fashionable country
estate and a particular favourite place for locals to enjoy
picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has
been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace
at its heart is now looking brighter and more elaborately
decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. The huge gardens, meadows and woods surrounding
the palace are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya ul. 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.
tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Museums 80 - 650Rbl. UK

On parks read more on pages 44 - 45
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Writer’s museums
Bulgakov House Museum - Theatre
Steeped in popular Moscow legend, this is where
Bulgakov, the author of
Master and Margarita lived
and wrote his famous
novel. Today it is an artist’s
gathering place with exhibitions of contemporary
Russian artists and a historical exhibition dedicated
to the house’s most famous inhabitant. The resident feline
Behemoth is more than fat, he is adorable and there’s
even a cute cafe serving tea, coffee and pies.QB-1, Bol.
Sadovaya ul. 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 970 06
19, www.dombulgakova.ru. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat
13:00 - 01:00. Admission free. PALW
Gorky Memorial Museum
Designed by one of Russia’s
most celebrated art nouveau architects - Fyodor
Schechtel - in 1900, the Ryabushinsky Mansion is most
famous as the former home
of writer Maxim Gorky. This
magical building is full of
beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble
‘wave’ staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is
worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive
written material available in each room giving insight into
Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes in décor and ornaments
and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writer’s Union, that list
includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy.QB-2, Mal.
Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35,
www.imli.ru. Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last
Thu of the month. Admission free. N
Lev Tolstoy Museum
Dedicated to the life of the
man behind War and Peace
and Anna Karenina, this is
a reverential place packed
with personal and literary
material. A complex and
conflicted individual, the
exhibits trace his life from
childhood to death and
the emergence of his major works. Easy to follow due to some great carded English
translations, this is a good introduction to Tolstoy.QB-4, Ul.
Prechistenka 11, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 74
10. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon
and last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. N
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Gogol House
Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A, in
the very centre of Moscow
near Arbat Square, with its
stone arcades and balconies,
may seem like your average
merchant’s mansion but
there is a lot more to it than
meets the eye. This house
has a very rich history dating
back to the early 17th century and had belonged to
families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government
officials, army generals and even the members of the Tolstoy family. However, the most famous resident to have
ever inhabited this manor was none other than Nikolai
Vasilievich Gogol, one of the most preeminent figures of
the natural school of Russian literary realism and author of
such classics as “The Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The Government Inspector” and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Welcome
to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library!
Although he had only spent the last four years of his life
here, this is the place where the writer worked on the
second volume of Dead Souls. It was here that he burnt
the manuscripts of the poem, and in this very house, on
February 21, 1852 that the writer died. The Gogol House
is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a research library of
over 250 000 volumes, an exhibition hall and a memorial
museum. The museum itself is located on the first floor,
which Gogol occupied, and is broken up into several
rooms. Gogol’s study was a special room where he could
enjoy some peace and quiet while he put his timeless
words down on paper. The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where the author entertained his
guests. The “Government Inspector” room tells visitors
about Russian theatre of the 1830s and 1840s, as well as
Gogol’s Theatre and plays based on his works. The Room
of Remembrance is where Gogol stayed when his health
began to fade in 1852, purely because it was warmer than
the other rooms. Although special attention is given to
the works of Gogol and other material relating to his life,
visitors also have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and
theology. The library also has a hall devoted specifically
to music, where anyone from novices to professionals
can browse through music books and even have a go on
the electric piano with special headphones to better hear
how they sound. The Gogol House also hosts a number
of events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to the works of Gogol and other prominent Russian authors.
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
690 58 81, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00,
Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue and last day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl.
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43

What to see

What to see
Rbl per hour thereafter (plus deposit). Roller blade rental is
200 Rbl for the first hour and 100 Rbl per hour thereafter,
but don’t forget to hire some protective gear! Another fun
activity would be hiring out a pedal boat, costing around
350 Rbl plus a deposit, although the lines can get pretty
long for this on weekends.
Word of advice and other useful info: bring cash with you
to Gorky Park as some of the activities may not be payable
by card. Wifi is available throughout the park as are plug
sockets. Hundreds of oversized pillows and beanbags are
dotted around for your leisure!

Gorky Park
In November 2011, when the last of the 100 rotting rollercoasters were demolished, Moscow finally cured itself of
its Soviet hangover. What remained was 2,000 square kilometers of potential: Gorky Park was transformed beyond
belief, quickly becoming Moscow’s hottest hangout. No
exaggeration intended, to cover every possible activity in
the park we would have to dedicate this entire magazine,
so instead as always, we have tried to pick out the absolute
must-do’s, so that you can get the most out of your time
at Gorky Park.
Food
Spending a day in Gorky Park, you are more than likely to
work up an appetite! But how to choose which of the many
cool, beautiful, hip or chilled out places to spend your hardearned rubles at? We’ve picked out our favorite food spots,
depending on what you’re craving. Of course this is just the
tip of the iceberg, so don’t be afraid to wonder into somewhere off the beaten track - you never know what gem you
might stumble upon.
1. For a caffeine and pastry fix look no further than Le Pain
Quotidien, or in Russian, Khleb Nasushchny, located by the
park entrance from Leninsky Avenue. Pueroport offers caffeine but in the form of 36 different types of teas. Alternatively, Coffee and the City is a slightly cheaper spot and Puff
Point has some of the most succulent profiteroles in town.
2. If it’s something traditional you’re after, consider trying
Pelman cafe, serving Russian boiled dumplings filled with
meat, fish or various vegetables.
3. If you only have time for a quick bite keep your eyes
peeled for Wokker - about as close as you’ll come to healthy
fast food, all made with the freshest oriental ingredients.
Glowsub (Russia’s answer to Subway) and What’s Up, Dog!
are scattered all around the park and are still pretty healthy
as far as fast food goes.
4. If dining in a beautiful setting is your main concern, we’d
recommend eating at Lebednoe Ozero (Swan Lake). Cafe
by day, bar and club by night, Ozero sits beautifully on the
edge of a picturesque lake, serving Thai and European food.
It is now conjoined by 8 Oz that shares the same lake view
and specializes in fresh oven-baked pizza. Olive Garden is
another favorite of ours. Located on the Moscow riverfront,
there is a totally holiday-feel atmosphere: snow-white mar44 Moscow In Your Pocket

quees, deck chairs, beach umbrellas and real olive trees. You
can come here during the day, bask in the sun and freshen
up with the finest lemonade.
For the ultimate Russian experience, keep an eye out for
one of the stalls selling corn on the cob. Another local
‘must-eat’ is ice cream - these snow white kiosks are near
impossible to miss and are sure to nostalgically bring you
back to your childhood.
Sport
The fitness fanatics amongst you will find yourselves at
home at Gorky Park. From racket sports to dance masterclasses, we cannot emphasize enough that there is truly
something for everyone here. You can play recreationally with friends and family, or if you want to improve your
game it’s possible hire a trainer. Again, we’ve tried to give
you an insight into what is available, but the sheer range of
possibilities is staggeringly impressive, leaving absolutely
nothing to be desired.
1. If dancing is your thing, there is an eclectic variety of
classes available, open to people of all ages and abilities
and run practically every day.
2. The joggers amongst you can find training sessions on
weekdays and weekends, gathering from Punshkinskaya
embankment. Of course if you wish to run on your own
there are a number of beautiful paths designed for joggers
with water fountains at regular intervals. Particularly for
men who are missing that intense body workout, Workout
24 in Neskuchni gardens will let you push yourself to the
limit!
3. There are also sports ranging from soccer pitches to tennis courts and anything in between, including a pingpong
club - 40 tables makes a stunning sight reminiscent of traditional Chinese Parks. Furthermore if you fancy some sand
between your toes, head to the beach sports centre where
any kind of beach court can be hired out.
4. Gorky Park has a number of arenas for skateboarding,
which if you’re not willing to risk trying makes a great spectator sport!
Gorky Park allows its visitors to rent a variety of services,
largely related either to sport or modes of transport. Renting a bicycle will cost you 350 Rbl for the first hour and 200
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But the fun and adventure don’t end here. A beautiful riverside pathway - lined with little benches perfect for taking a
breather and gazing at the river - will lead you to Vorobyevy
Gory (Sparrow Hills). Here, you can stand and survey over
1000 years of history.

The Andreevsky men’s monastery at Plennitsy was endowed in 1648 by Boyar Feodor Rtishchev in honour of the
victory of Russian troops in battle over Crimean Tatars at
a ford outside Moscow in 1591. After the secularisation of
land in 1764, the monastery was closed down and turned
into an almshouse. The monastery was returned to the Russian Orthodox church in 1991 and has since been open to
the public’s viewing pleasure.
The history behind the site of N. Ogarev’s and A. Herzen’s
oath dates back to 1827, when two young men named Alexander Herzen and Nikolay Ogarev, inspired by the events
of the Decembrist revolt. One and a half centuries later on
the high slope of Vorobyovy Gory, a stele was erected in
memory of the revolutionaries. The memorial was inaugurated on 11 December 1978. The obelisk comprises granite
blocks, walls clad in grey granite, a bronze scroll mounted
in the left section with a bás-relief portrait image of Herzen
and Ogarev facing each other.

vorobyevy Gory
It might be hard to imagine the footprints of Napoleon
when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors,
not to mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get an idea
of the length and breadth of the capital from here, as well
as seeing which of Stalin’s Seven Sisters skyscrapers you can
make out or play at counting the golden onion globes. Turn
around for a glimpse of the great promise of education for
the people; Moscow State University (MGU) directly behind
you. This building is grand, the rest behind it are frightfully
unspectacular. The walk up the hill is steep, although the
chairlift is occasionally open.
In summer the river embankment is a popular spot for picnics, sunbathing and cycling. The bicycle/roller blade rental
system is the same in the main part of Park Gorkogo and it
is very convenient in the sense that you can rent and drop
off your rental item at any rental point within the greater
Gorky Park area.

With this level of mobility, you’re ready to discover all the
gorgeous historical and cultural sites. Church of the LifeGiving Trinity relates to the mid-XV century. Then it was a
village church but over the course of centuries, the church
was re-built several times. Its current version was built in
1811−13. Here Mikhail Illarionovich Kutuzov prayed before
the Council of Fili. In Soviet times, the church was open and
even restored. Now it is a functioning church and unique
architectural and cultural monument.
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A new and, in our opinion, brilliant initiative is the Ecocenter, where school children are supported in developing independent projects on environmental themes and
inter-regional and international relations are fostered with
environmental non-government and state organizations.
Children are shown by way of example how to be environmentally efficient with household items. In order to lend
the learning process a playful and interesting form, a model
urban flat features in the exhibit, where displays familiar to
visitors from everyday life can be found, available for experimentation and eco-friendly comparison.
After trekking uphill, Andreevsky Ponds are a great place
to set camp and laze around as a light breeze passes and
the birds sing beautifully. And finally, as the sun begins
to go down head over to the observation point: what
can we say, a more splendid view over Moscow is yet
to be found.
Ultimately Gorky Park and Sparrow Hills can compete
with any of Europe’s and indeed the world’s finest parks.
We hope we’ve left you with enough inspiration here to
plan out a day at this wonderful place. If there is one small
caution to be heeded, refrain from cramming as many activities as possible into one day, as whichever way you go
about it, there will always be something more to be seen or
something else to be done. Instead - just go with the flow.
Appreciate the weather, the activities, the beauty and the
people, because that’s what makes this park so special! And
if needed, make a second trip here.
June - July 2015

45

Hidden museums

Moscow is a thriving cultural capital that has so much to
offer visitors and locals alike. Locals, however, will tell you
that there’s more to Moscow than Tretyakovskaya Gallery
or the Pushkin Museum. Sure, these are a must but there
are many other fascinating museums and galleries that
are definitely worth a visit but have remained somewhat
underrated.
Literature buffs will be especially pleased with how Moscow commemorates the Russia’s greats. A favorite of Joseph Stalin, Maxim Gorky was a writer and revolutionary
who was proclaimed the founder of the new, officially
sanctioned socialist realism after the Russian Revolution.
His former home, the Ryabushinsky Mansion (designed
by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau architects
Fyodor Schechtel in 1900), is open to visitors free of charge.
This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite
carved oak paneling and is worth visiting just for aesthetic
reasons. There is extensive written material available in
each room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his
tastes in décor and ornaments and there are some stories
about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked
about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the
head of the Writer’s Union, that list includes everyone from
Mayakovsky to Tolstoy.
The most famous resident of 7A Nikitskiy Boulevard was
none other than Nikolay Gogol. The Gogol House is the
only place in Moscow that keeps many momentous memories alive by combining a research library of over 250,000
volumes, a research center, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum. The museum is broken up into several rooms
(his cabinet, the living room, the “Government Inspector”
room and the “Room of Remembrance”). In the library,
visitors have access to a large selection of books dedicated
N.V. Gogol, psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies
and theology. The Gogol House also hosts a number of
events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts
dedicated to Gogol’s and other prominent Russian authors’
works. Read more on page 45.
The Chekhov house honors another titan of 19th century
Russian literature and sheds light on his life. The museum
opened here in 1953 and underwent a spring clean in
2003. The objects remain authentic, a little too authentic
when you see the tiny metal bed he slept on. It was from
this red castle-like house that he left to go on his epic jaunt
to Sakhalin, at that time the journey took around three
months. It was also here that the music lover received pa46 Moscow In Your Pocket

tients, continuing his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to
thank him for the personal dedication in his book Gloomy
People. Also upstairs there are exhibitions following the life
of the great writer, a surprising number of photos and a
display showing different dramatic productions of his plays
around the world.
Art and music aficionados will surely find the Central Museum of Musical Culture as well as the Institute of Russian
Realist Art to their liking. The Central Museum of Music’s
permanent exhibition is an impressive journey through
musical instruments of the past and from all corners of the
world in all their weird and wonderful diversity. Take a trip
through Russian musical history from giant balalaikas to
the famous and eerie theremin, passing on the way hefty
early record players and novelty music boxes. The global
collection includes crazy-looking instruments from Cuba to
Korea - who knew you could make guitars from armadillos?
As well as the permanent exhibition there’s always another
temporary one on a subject of Russian or international music and a whole host of events throughout the year which
you can find out about on their website.
The Institute of Russian Realist Art may be a little out of
the way but if you decide to make the trek then you will get
to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art.
Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of
the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes
of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika
and the fall of communism.
If history and anthropology are more your thing, then the
next couple of museums should go straight on your to-visit
list. The Nikolay Roerich Museum: Nikolay Roerich and
his family are possibly some of the most important Russian
anthropologists of the past 100 years. Travelling all over
Asia in the early 20th century, Nikolay and his clan recorded
the beliefs, life and art of various different nationalities hoping to preserve their way of life, describe it to the world and
also learn from it. This fantastic museum is dedicated not
only to Nikolay’s priceless paintings, but also the people he
met during his many years of tough travel. Music, lights and
themed exhibits add great atmosphere to the huge collection of artworks and artifacts from the Roerich family, whilst
extensive English descriptions add depth to the work on
display. Above all it is Nikolay Roerich’s magical and mystical imagination and painterly skills that shine through - the

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Hidden museums
most impressive works depicting the remote and romantic
beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your memory long after leaving.
Even if you aren’t a fan of stuffed animals and taxidermy,
the Darwin Museum is still an interesting place to check
out. It consists of three floors that fit into the theme of evolution. The first floor touches on the history of the Darwin
Museum and biological diversity. Although there are few
signs in English, the exhibitions are fairly straight-forward.
The first floor also showcases many of the world’s ecosystems and recreations of some extinct animals. The next two
floors deal with micro- and macroevolution, zoogeography
and the development of scientific thought. There are hundreds of stuffed animals set up in their natural habitat as
well as an interesting look at how humans evolved.

A slightly different kind of history, the Vodka History Museum (located inside the Izmailovo Kremlin) gives you the
detailed and fun history of vodka in Russia and tells you
about the role it plays in Russian society. The museum only
has one floor, and it’s not very big but you should still expect to spend about an hour and a half looking around.
You will learn that it has changed the course of history in
Russia on more than one occasion. The museum boasts
700 different small exhibits and the collection of different
vodka brands is quite impressive, plus with the regular tour
a complimentary shot is of course included! After the tour
you can also arrange to attend a vodka tasting session and
buy your favorite brands. All information and signs are in
Russian and English.
Thought provoking and contemplative, the Sakharov
Center should be on the list for those interested in the life
of Sakharov, Russia’s Nobel Peace Prize winning physicist
and human rights campaigner. The upstairs museum room
hosts five informative displays discussing the establishment of the Soviet regime, the beginning of dissent, the
repercussions, the results (GULAG) and the aftermath. The
displays are mainly photographic but there is some installation. While all information is original and therefore in
Russian, the museum provides extensive descriptions for
each display in English as well as an additional guidebook.
Downstairs is a library and reading room.
And last but by no means least, something slightly quirky:
the Lights of Moscow Museum - a museum about
street lamps! Sounds dull? Not when you are controlling
the lighting effects yourself! This small and eccentric little
place devoted to the history of Moscow street lighting is
as interactive as it is unusual. Using the nifty little remote
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control, you can see first hand just why people complained
about the first gas lamps, saying the moon shone brighter,
and experience how the discovery of the electric lamp was
such a world changing event. There’s also a big collection of
clocks in the end of the exhibition, which amounts to only
four rooms in all.
Go out, explore and enjoy!
Chekhov Museum
QB-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 6, MBarrikadnaya,
tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, www.goslitmuz.ru. Open 11:00 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last day of the
month. Admission 50 - 150Rbl. Fourth Fri of the month
entrance free. N
Darwin Museum
QUl. Vavilova 57, MAkademicheskaya, tel. (+7) 499
783 22 53, www.darwin.museum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the
month. Admission 100 - 300Rbl. PUK
Gorky Memorial Museum
QB-2, Mal. Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru. Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed
Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free. N
Institute of Russian Realist Art
QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276
12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.
Lights of Moscow
QD-2, Armyansky per. 3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7)
495 624 73 74, www.moscowlights.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 30 - 70Rbl. N
Nikolay Roerich Museum
QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 220Rbl. N
Sakharov Сenter
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 57/6, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
623 44 01, www.sakharov-center.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free.
The Central Museum of Musical Culture
QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495
739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 175 - 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50 - 250Rbl.
Children till 6 years old free. TNKW
The Gogol House
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695
92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Mon, Wed and Fri 12:00
- 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed on Tue and last working day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. NW
Vodka History Museum
QIzmailovskoe shosse 73 G, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7)
499 166 50 97, www.vodkamuseum.ru. Open 10:00
- 20:00. Admisson 100 - 180Rbl. Guided tours 240 300Rbl depending on amount of people. Excursion in
English should be booked in advance. AK
June - July 2015

47

Where to stay

Where to stay

Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month,
you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to
get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels
ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels
filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are
located and what market they cater for.

5 stars
Ararat Park Hyatt
QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783
12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room
prices start at 16,000Rbl).
Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room
prices start at 6,200Rbl).
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya
QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota,
tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).
Hotel National
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,500Rbl).
Hotel Savoy Moscow
QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms
(Room prices start at 37,760Rbl).
48 Moscow In Your Pocket

Lotte Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms
(Room prices start at 15,000Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel
QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,000Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495
937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. 231
rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl).
Metropol
QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms
(Room prices start at 9,440Rbl).
Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru.
497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at
19,000Rbl).
Renaissance Moscow
Monarch Centre Hotel
QA-1, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel.
(+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.
com. 366 rooms (Room prices start at 8,024Rbl).
Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo
Airport Hotel
QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.
com. 342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl).
Sheraton Palace
QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms
(Room prices start at 5,500Rbl).
The Ritz-Carlton
QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room
prices start at 15,000Rbl).
The St. Regis Moscow Hotel Nikol’skaya
QD-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967
77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 210 rooms (Prices
start at 11,000Rbl).

Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City
Center Hotel
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms
(Room prices start at 4,000Rbl).
Holiday Inn Lesnaya
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 15, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783
65 00, www.moscow-hi.ru. 301 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,500Rbl).
Holiday Inn Suschevsky
QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225
82 82, www.holidayinn.com. 312 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,500Rbl).
Marco Polo Presnja
QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 73 rooms
(Room prices start at 5,890Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Tverskaya
QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv.
162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,800Rbl).
Novotel Moscow Centre
QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms
(Room prices start at 4,602Rbl).
Novotel Moscow City Hotel
QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7)
495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).

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Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel
QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495
987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,500Rbl).
Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,990Rbl).
Ibis Paveletskaya
QUl. Shchipok 22/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661
85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices start
at 3,900Rbl).
Warsaw
QC-5, Leninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499
238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room
prices start at 4,600Rbl).
Zolotoy Kolos
QYaroslavskaya ul. 15/3, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 617
63 56, www.zkolos.ru. 331 rooms (Room prices start at
2,400Rbl).

Hostels
Comrade Hostel
QD-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor, MKitay Gorod, tel.
(+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. 9 rooms
(Prices per bed start from 600Rbl).
Godzillas
QC-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7)
495 699 42 23, godzillashostel.com. 23 rooms (Room
prices start at 864Rbl).
iVan Hostel
QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 9 rooms
(Prices per bed start from 700Rbl).

4 stars
Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,100Rbl).
AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,500Rbl).
Best Western Plus Vega Hotel
& Convention Center
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms
(Room prices start at 3,600Rbl).

3 stars

Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven
working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays). Remember your hotel
is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you
make sure you complain – the registrations is their responsibility, not yours!
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June - July 2015

49

Shopping

Shopping
Russian Souvenirs
Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just
talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are
looking to take some extra special gifts home with you
we recommend you consider buying some of the following:
Platok
A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These
beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either
spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn
around the neck or serve to make your grandma look
even cuter than usual by being worn around the head.
Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of
scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand
spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and
silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a
woman’s wedding ring.

Birch wood crafts
The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further
in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that
the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then
comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at
producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite
tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they
are said to be very good for your hair.
Khokhloma
This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates
back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in
your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you
have space for more you can find almost anything with
khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco
sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic
team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing.

50 Moscow In Your Pocket

Caviar
Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods
on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than
$100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from
street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.

Shapka ushanka
If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible
during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back
home, then of course you’ll need to get a Russian fur hat
with ear flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with
red stars on it automatically earns you double spot-thetourist points. Most of the things you can get in markets
are made from fake fur, but, if you’re willing to make an
investment, real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm)
can also be found in fur shops all over the city.
Valenki
Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially
designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki
are very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If
you want to wear them about town you will need to buy
some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure
that they don’t get damaged. Made from sheep’s wool,
valenki are said to be so warm and well insulated that
you can wear them without socks. In fact wearing them
without socks is preferred, since the rough wool is said
to exfoliate your skin as you walk.

Anything pic kled
Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the
masters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian
spread almost always includes domashnie soleniа or
“homemade pickles”, usually in the form of assorted
pickled cucumbers, tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves
and beets. Since pickled vegetables are often eaten
as a chaser following a shot of vodka, a jar of delicious
homemade pickles makes a great substitute for caviar
and costs a fraction of the price.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

shop in the museum
Are you always at the lookout
for these Soviet souvenirs, but
want to make sure you find
the right ones, then this is your
place. Rare items from back
when the country was hidden
behind an Iron Curtain are on
sale here, including stamps,
postcards and posters with the
popular Soviet – we can do it –
slogans. Next to the fun items, such as fridge magnets,
tea spoons and calendars, there is a large collection with
scientific literature about Russian history and on the museum of Contemporary Russian History too, with which
it shares the entrance by the way. If you are a professional
collector, make sure to have a look at their extensive online shop!QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru.

Gifts and Souvenirs
Art Lebedev
You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here
but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook
is full of trendy design gifts with a hint of the traditional
thrown into the mix. QC-2, Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9,
MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 772 96 84, www.store.
artlebedev.ru/offline/psm/. Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW
Dulyovsky farfor
The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice
crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets
designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to
1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright
wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20,
MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.
ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
Gallery Mikhailov
For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with
the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit
to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate
jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick
holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the
finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www.
vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A

Russian gifts
This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything
you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite
jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl.
Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984
71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. ALK
Shaltai - Boltay
The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the quaint
fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh,
the shop features all manner of designer and handmade
goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary
rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more
for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the
body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78
50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AL

Markets
Danilovsky
QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru.
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Dorogomilovsky
QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249
55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N
Leningradsky Rynok
QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71.
Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N
Vernisazh in Izmailovo
QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Shopping Centres
Atrium
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Evropeysky Shopping Centre
QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495
921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 23:00. AK
GUM
QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43
43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK

Prosto Tak
They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look
of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with
these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and
toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They
also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and
bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499
755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2015

51

Shopping
Art salon on
starosadsky
This small gift shop is a veritable
Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious
stones, minerals and amber
handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative
items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take
away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than another
item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no
further than these cabinets filled with items made from
gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic
amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something
even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the
Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947
and of the one that made the headlines in February 2013
in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, traditional
scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts
created by two famous Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and
Evgeny Shepelev.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.art-gemstones.ru.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

RAKETA WATCHES
Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the
only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it
is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only
others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own
movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It
was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter
the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family.
After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what
had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The
factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum,
and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the
Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in
1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory).
In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into
outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. www.raketa.com.
Podium Concept Stor
QC-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, MKuznetsky most,
tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www.podiumfashion.com.
Open 12:00 – 23:00.
TSUM
Q4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatralnaya, (+7)
495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. Open 10:00 – 22:00.
Tsvetnoy Central Market
Q4th Floor , C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bulvar, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open
10:00 – 22:00.
52 Moscow In Your Pocket

Business directory
Lotte Plaza
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 641
25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. LKW
Metropolis shopping center
QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru.
Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
Novinsky
QNovinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 797
62 00, www.novinsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Okhotny Ryad
QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AULKW
Tsvetnoy Central Market
QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW

Bookshops
Bookshop Moskva
QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Business-Centre Bookbridge
QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00.
Dom Inostrannoy Knigi
QС-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel.
(+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
Respublika
QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open
24hrs. AKW
Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus
QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel.
(+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW

Supermarkets
Bakhetle
QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A
Gum Gastronom №1
QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788
43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK
Hediard
QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open
08:00 - 23:00.
Yeliseevsky
QС-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650
46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A

Skolko stoit? – How much is it?
moscow.inyourpocket.com

Accountants
and Consultants
Awara
QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com.
Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services
QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl.
Deloitte
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787
06 00, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst and Young
QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
LowLands
QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7)
495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru.
Mega-Intel
Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00.
PricewaterhouseCoopers
QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val.
10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru.
SHR Consulting
QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel.
(+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com.
The Lighthouse Group
QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, office 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business associations
Association of European Businesses
QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8,
MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@
aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru.
Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.
Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club
QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 59 46, [email protected], www.club-hit.ru.
Russian-German Chamber of Commerce
QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234
49 50, www.vdw.ru.
The American Chamber of Commerce
QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.
The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce
QС-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Exhibition and
conference centres
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs)
QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544
34 00, www.vvcentre.ru.
Central exhibition hall Manezh
QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums.
info/M419.
Crocus Expo (International Exhibition
Centre)
Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino,
tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru.
Expocentre
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 18:00.
Gostiny Dvor
QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7)
495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre
(KVTS Sokolniki)
Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7)
495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00.
World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC)
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.

Lawyers and notaries
TIM Services & TIM Advisers
QShluzovaya nab. 8, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 989 18 17, www.timservices.ru.

Recruitment
Antal Russia
QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com.
G-Nius Russia - Recruitment & Executive
search
QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru.
June - July 2015

53

Expat & Lifestyle

Expat & Lifestyle
The Expat Experience
Interview with Patrick
Naughter, Regional General Manager Moscow
Azimut Hotels.
I am Irish. I love travelling and I
look for fun in everything I do.
At the same time I’m quite a
serious person and I am passionate about doing things right. Music and exercise help
me to unwind, as does meeting new people and the occasional single malt. I am married to Irina and we have a 16
year old son Ciaran. My love of travelling has enabled me
to develop my career in different countries.
What makes Moscow special for you? Can you name
for us three things about living and working in Moscow that you enjoy the most? Moscow is truly dynamic
and international and what I like most about the city is its
improved cleanliness, it’s excellent theatre scene and its
constant development. The current city administration
is doing a good job in improving the city’s attractiveness
both for its residents and visitors. I first travelled to Moscow in October 1994 and I currently have the pleasure of
working here for a 3rd time. Decision making in business
is quicker than in the past, and Moscow is now a far more
family-friendly city than when I first visited. Just across the
road from my primary place of work is Ekaterininsky Park. It
is so carefully maintained with its children’s play areas, boat
pond and seating areas. Residents of the area including
myself find it to be an oasis during the summer months,
and indeed it is a delightful venue for picnics. So, three
things? Business vibe, entertainment, parks.
Can you compare Moscow with other big cities
you’ve been to/worked in? During the summer of
2014 whilst travelling on the Moscow metro I was delighted to find that my carriage doubled up as an art
exhibition. One entire side of the carriage displayed
paintings along the inner wall. On another occasion
the outside of a carriage was painted with typical Russian forest scene. Perhaps similar initiatives are also undertaken in other cities, however I’ve yet to experience
this. The Moscow metro is by far most efficient I ever
traveled, which is just as well considering how large the
city is and how congested the roads can be at times.
What are your favorite spots in or outside the city
to visit in summer? I lived in St. Petersburg for 7 years
before returning to Moscow. I have several friends there
therefore St. Petersburg features highly on my annual
summer “to do” list! Accepting friend’s invitations to
visit them at their dachas in the Moscow countryside
is also a fun way to relax and I recently rediscovered
the beauty and tranquility of the Arkhangelskoe Estate.
Sometimes it’s difficult to make a decision, because my
wife and I also enjoy exploring Moscow my foot.
54 Moscow In Your Pocket

Expat Contacts
American Women’s Organisation
Qwww.awomoscow.org.
Australian and New Zealand Social
Group (AUSKI)
Qwww.gdaymoscow.com.
British Women’s Club
Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk.
English Language Evenings (ELE)
Qwww.ELEMoscow.net.
Expat Football League
Qwww.moscowfootball.com.
EXPATinRUSSIA
Qwww.expatinrussia.com.
InterNations
Qwww.internations.org.
Moscou Accueil (French Women’s Club)
Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org.
MosKultInfo (German-Language
Community Newsletter)
Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com.
Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen)
Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub.
Rotary Club Moscow International
Qwww.rcmi.ru.
SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational
Association)
Qwww.swea.org/moskva.

The American Center in Moscow
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat
11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.

International Schools
Atlantic International School
QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499
745 62 61; Skolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7)
968 651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru.
British International School
QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com.
Little Angels
QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru.
Montessori School
QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A
P’tit Cref
QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com.
The Anglo-American School of Moscow
QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88,
www.aas.ru.
The International School of Moscow
QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499
922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.

IWC MOSCOW
Summer is the best time to get out and around Moscow
to explore the city and it’s a great time for getting together
and meeting new people! So why not seize the opportunity to check out the International Women’s Club of Moscow
and what they offer? Join one of their free Coffee Mornings
to meet fellow expat ladies, have interesting chats, get useful hints for life in Moscow and enjoy a hot beverage and
delicious pastry! Learn more about the upcoming dates
and events on their website: www.iwcmoscow.ru

The English
International School
School offering education based on the English
National Curriculum for 3 to 18 year olds with small
classes and English-native teaching staff. Facilities
include sophisticated ICT systems, interactive
materials, libraries, and computer rooms. School
bus service is offered for Moscow city and district.
The school has 3 campuses in Moscow: West
(Molodogvardeyskaya ul. 9, metro Molodezhnaya),
South-West (Ul. Lobachevskogo 14, metro Prospekt
Vernadskogo) and East (66A Zeleny Prospekt, metro
Novogireevo). QFor more information: tel. (+7) 495
984 59 92, www.englishedmoscow.com

Cultural & Educational
Centres
The foreign cultural and educational centres in Moscow
are organising many activities for Russians and foreigners.
The epicentre is the VGBIL building in the city centre, near
Taganskaya metro, the Library for Foreign Literature. Most
of the international centres are located there.
British Council
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open
13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Canadian Centre
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute/DAAD
QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7)
495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/
deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Institut Français
QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/
russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00.
Neso Russia
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open
14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

June - July 2015

55

Expat & Lifestyle
trolls and trademarks
Twenty five years or so ago, you would see only Soviet
and Russian brand names in the streets of Moscow, and
only a few of them. Now there are shops everywhere,
more billboards than trees and huge outdoor TV screens
scream to drivers in traffic jams: “Buy our product”. International brands have flooded the Russian market and
within Russia and the former Soviet Union more than a
fair share of local brands have developed. Developing a
good brand or trade mark takes a lot of effort. You need
a product, a snappy name and a recognizable image or
logo. You also need to deliver a product of consistent
quality and make sure it is there when consumers want
to buy it. And you need to advertise, big time. No wonder
that business people want to protect their trademarks
against copycats. Accordingly, if you are using someone
else’s trademark, you want to be sure you will be allowed
to use it for some considerable time. Compare it to financing an “European style renovation” in a rented apartment:
you want the rent to be really long term and get a good
compensation in case of early termination. This is especially important in Russia. Many international brands look
at Russia with mixed feelings of greed and fear and prefer
to license a trademark to a licensee, an independent local
party who will invest in production or sales capacity and,
of course, lots of sweat and tears. Once the brand is well
known on the Russian market, the owner may want to
step in himself, after all he owns the trademark. Without
a properly registered trade mark license agreement, the
licensee will see no compensation for years of hard work.
Unlike some EU states, Russia has not yet enacted legislation to protect independent distributors against international brand owners using local parties to break open
the Russian market without proper compensation for the
built up market value. The competent authority in Russia is for the registration of trademarks is Rospatent and
Russia is a member of the so called Madrid system. Under
the Madrid system, a trademark owner registers his brand
with the WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organisation).
It is often incorrectly assumed that a WIPO registration
“automatically” covers Russia. For most WIPO-countries,
licensees can be registered in the trademark registration
form. Russia is one of the exceptions: the actual trademark license agreement must be registered with Rospatent. Of course it must be in Russian and not too many
bells and whistles please. Another issue is the spelling of
a trademark in Cyrillic characters. To their demise, many
international companies have found out that the Russian
spelling of their trademark has already been taken. This
sometimes happens by accident (checking too many
boxes on the registration form), sometimes on purpose
in order to extract an out-of-court settlement fee. This last
category of ransom-seekers are called “trolls”.
Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal
Services. For legal advice visit their website www.
bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.
56 Moscow In Your Pocket

Expat & Lifestyle
Religious Services
Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate
Conception
QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru.
Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral
QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru.
Historical Moscow Mosque
QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open
12:00 - 00:30.
International Christian Fellowship
QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48
01, www.icfmoscow.org.
Moscow Buddhist Centre
QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k),
MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/
en. Open 18:00 - 23:00.
Moscow Choral Synagogue
QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay
Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru.

LEARN russian at the
liden & denz
Dictionary for expats:
“To look for a needle in a haystack”
If a Russian says this sentence to you, try not to be
discouraged! This phrase literally translates into, “to
search for wind in the field”, and has a similar meaning to the English phase, “to look for a needle in a
haystack” or “to go on a wild goose chase”. You can
use this phrase anytime that you know the assignment
will be challenging, yet you should continue to pursue it. Chekhov famously used the phrase in his poem
“Boots”, about someone trying to get a pair of boots
back to their rightful owner. Although the task at hand
may be difficult, as it was for the character in the poem
that had to search the town while wearing two left
shoes, remember that there is still hope.

QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181,
MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www.
lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Moving and Relocations

Moscow Choral Synagogue

Moscow Congregation for Progressive
Judaism
QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7)
495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru.
Seventh-Day Adventist Church
QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7)
499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru.
Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy
QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8,
MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org.
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org.
St. Elisabethgemeinde
QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de.
Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy
QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

AGS FROESCH Russia
QProyektiruyemy proezd 4062, bldg. 6, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 99 61, www.agsfroesch.com.
Allied Pickfords
QVarshavskoe shosse 127a, MYuzhnaya, tel. (+7) 495
796 93 25, www.alliedpickfords.ru.
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group
QOtkrytoye shosse 48a, 3rd floor, MUlitsa Podbelskogo, tel. +7 (495) 411 96 20, www.corstjens.com. Open
09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. N
Move One Relocation
QC-7, Ul. Krymsky val 3, bldg. 2, off. 503, MOktyabskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 01 64, www.moveoneinc.com.

Charities
Children’s Hospital Fund
QShmitovsky pr. 23, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 499 256 64 44,
www.childhospital.ru.
Marias Children Art Center
QC-2, Dmitrovsky per. 2/10, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 692 48 70, www.mariaschildren.ru.
Big Brothers, Big Sisters of Russia
QUl. Matrosskaya Tishina 23 bldg. 1, MPreobrazhenskaya Plozhchad, tel. (+7) 495 500 40 42, www.
bbbsrussia.org.
Nastenka Foundation
QInstitute of Pediatric Oncology RCRC RAMS,
Kashirskoye shosse 23, MKashirskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980
53 77, www.nastenka.ru.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

S Lyogkim Parom!
You can’t say that you’ve ‘done’ Russia unless you’ve
experienced a banya. It’s basically a bath house with
fun thrown in yet is also a ritual, although its origins
stretch back centuries to the days when bathing as we
know it didn’t exist. Nowadays it’s more of a pastime
yet it’s useful to familiarise yourself; essentially you
will enter a hot, steaming room, work up a sweat and
then wash it off with cold water, but there is much
more to it than just an old-fashioned way of keeping
yourself clean.
Banya’s range from a small, wooden shed to an ornate
building, such as the famous Sanduny (www.sanduny.
ru). Many wear a felt hat which helps to protect your
ears from the extreme heat – you will strip off completely and head into a room where the temperature
is close to 100C, so slipping on a pair of flip-flops is a
wise move. The longer you stay in, the sweatier you
become, although hardcore banya aficionados can be
seen beating each other with birch branches, called
‘veniki’ which improves the circulation, apparently.
Water will be poured onto the hot stones to create additional steam, and eucalyptus is occasionally added
for a more authentic smell.
Once your body cannot stand any more, you exit the
banya into a cold pool to wash off all the sweat. This
could be anything from an indoor swimming pool to
a pond in the garden, and if you really want to show
off in winter months, you can roll around in the snow
although this is best done after a few vodka shots.
On the subject of refreshments, you won’t be surprised to hear that there is often some alcohol involved after you’ve rinsed off sweat off yourself. Most
public banya’s will have a small café or shop selling
beer, soft drinks and snacks although the swankier
the venue, the better the fare (Sanduni boasts a large
menu, featuring Russian, Georgian and Uzbek cuisine,
plus an assortment of beverages from draught beer to
spirits. Then it’s back in for another round of banya, a
ritual which will be repeated several times until you’re
ready to keel over!
Unless you are lucky enough to visit someone who
has their own banya, or rich enough to rent out the
entire premises, it’s likely to be a same-sex affair but
it is all completely innocent. Do bring along some toiletries and a towel for showering at the end. Banya’s
are generally geared towards men but ladies can enjoy them too; Sanduny has a separate female section.
If you only learn one banya-related phrase, it has to
be ‘S lyogkim parom’ which very roughly translates as
‘I hope the steam goes easy on you’!
Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc
Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com
June - July 2015

57

St. Petersburg

St. Petersburg
Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for
a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s
Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are
looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with
history and beauty.
Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside
panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than
enough to enjoy at any time of year.

sightseeing

getting there
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 66), and
others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the
‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours
and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and
early evening. There are also of course frequent flight
connections between Moscow’s main airports and St.
Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.

Luxury Trains
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private
train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel
experience. After being shown to your cabin you will
find your beds have already been made up with real
duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages
are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during
the trip you experience some problems you can call the
train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they
will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow
truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.
Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 08:53.
For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online
at www.megapolis-te.ru

58 Moscow In Your Pocket

Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
QNab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Kazan Cathedral
QKazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63,
www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services
10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
Kunstkamera
QUniversitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
Peter and Paul Fortress
QPetropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is
open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
Russian Museum
QInzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595
42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon
10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission
150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
St. Isaac’s Cathedral
QIsaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315
97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed.
Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of
the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.

HOTELS
Angleterre Hotel
QMal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.
hhhhh
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QNevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20
01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
St. Petersburg
QVoznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183
rooms. hhhhh
Grand Hotel Europe
QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
hhhhh
Hotel Astoria
QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
hhhhh
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22
QNab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197
rooms. hhhhh
Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge
QBirzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh

Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Center West Pushkin Hotel
QNab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya
ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.
courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. hhhh
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky
QLigovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00
01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. hhhh

shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QNevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08,
www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
DLT Department store
QBol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral­teiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AKW
GALERIA QLigovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7)
812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
ALK
Nevsky Centre
QNevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
AKW
Passage
QNevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57,
www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00. AK

modern art centres
Anna Nova Art Gallery
QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7
(812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru.
Erarta
QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com.
Marina Gisich Gallery
QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com.
Novy musey
QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru.
ROSPHOTO
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org.
moscow.inyourpocket.com

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June - July 2015

59

Oryol

Oryol
Outside Oryol
Worth a half-day trip is Spasskoe-Lutovinovo, the family
estate of the famous Russian writer Ivan Turgenev, situated 65km north of Oryol, just outside the town of Mtsensk
which is an hour away by bus (60Rbl), plus ten minutes in
a cab (250Rbl). Although Turgenev himself lived mostly in
St. Petersburg, Moscow and abroad, he visited SpasskoeLutovinovo regularly and considered it to be his home.
Much of the estate was built in the 1850s but the main
house was restored in the 1970s and still contains some
of the original furniture, books and Turgenev’s personal
items, such as a chess board. There are numerous other
buildings scattered across the estate, such as a church
and stables, plus a recently-constructed museum and gift
shop although the grounds themselves make for a pleasant stroll.

Oryol

Parks

An easy weekend away for those who have ‘done’ the
Golden Ring and want to get slightly off the beaten track
but without really leaving their comfort zone. Oryol is
sometimes written ‘Orel’ but is always pronounced ‘Aaryol’ and means ‘eagle’ in Russian. Why? Well, legend has
it that an eagle landed on a fortress in the settlement
which existed many centuries ago where the Oka and
Orlik rivers meet, and coined the name. Later, in 1566
Ivan the Terrible instructed a new, larger fortress to be
built to protect the southern parts of his empire, and
the city reached its peak during the 19th century when
it attracted a surprisingly large number of the gentry.
Nowadays, Oryol is a middle-status provisional capital
of slightly over 300,000 people, and much of what you
will see has been built fairly recently since the city was
trashed during WW2 as it was occupied between 19411943, but the centre is surprisingly pretty and well kept,
allowing for plenty of sightseeing, so long as your expectations aren’t excessive. Moscow this ain’t, but then
again the only ‘tourists’ are likely to be other locals wandering about!

Oryol has plenty of parks, the main one being the City
park of Culture and Rest, which features the impressive
Catherine’s Cathedral, and literary buffs may want to pay
a visit to the Turgenev museum which not surprisingly is
on ul. Turgeneva 11.

Where to stay

Nightlife
While most cities in eastern Europe now boast an Irish
pub, Oryol goes one better with an extremely up-market
British pub called Chester (Komsomolskaya ul. 36), although if you’re looking for something a little more original, drop into Pint House (Pokrovskaya ul. 3) which used
to be a public toilet, but has been converted into a nononsense bar, with several house beers on tap, reasonably
priced Russian-bar food, and live bands in the evenings.
Also worth a mention is the quirky 3 Etazh café (ul. Pushkina 6) with artistic designs adorning the walls, and the
pizza was pretty good too.

Getting There
Oryol doesn’t have a functioning commercial airport,
so it’s the train, bus or car. Trains leave from Moscow’s
Kursky Vokzal (metro – Kurskaya) and take 4-5 hours.
Since Oryol is one of the main stops en route to many
of Ukraine’s major cities, there are at least a dozen fast
trains every day, although it’s advisable to book well
in advance as these can fill up fast. Busses are slower,
taking around eight hours.
60 Moscow In Your Pocket

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Déjà vu on Moskovskaya ul. 24, (3,600Rbl for a double
room), including breakfast (and lunch, if you want to
stick around – we did on one day, but it was very mediocre), the rooms were fine and the hotel is centrally
located and they didn’t charge us more for a late-afternoon check-out.

Getting around
It’s a good half an hour walk from the train or bus station into the centre, although cabs wait at both. There is
a huge eagle sculpture immediately opposite the train
station; don’t expect many photo opportunities around
the bus station. If arriving by train, walk right out of the
station and down Moskovskaya ul. and you will eventually come to the tank memorial on Ploschad Mira (Peace
Square), featuring an original tank which helped to liberate the city.
Every town worth its salt has a memorial to those who
perished during the Second World War, and Oryol is no
exception; from there it’s a short walk to the bridge over
the Oka river. Heading right after crossing Duchy Park is
the confluence, or meeting point of the large Oka, and
smaller Orlik (which incidentally means ‘small eagle’ in
Russian) rivers, and where a monument was recently
built to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the city’s
founding.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

russian history in short
9th Century: Slavic people from Ukraine and Belarus migrate into Russia, founding Veliky Novgorod,
converting to Christianity, and adopting the Cyrillic
alphabet.
10th – 15th Centuries: Golden Age of Kievan Rus
continues until the Mongol descendants of Ghenghis
Khan invade. Ivan the Great comes to power in 1462.
17th Century: Times of Troubles 1603-1613: the
Swedes and Poles invade. Russia acquires new Siberian
territory. First Romanov is elected Tsar.
1703: Peter the Great founds St. Petersburg, which
becomes the new Russian capital in 1712
1762 – 1796: German princess Catherine the Great
marries her way into the Russian royal family and
launches a program of legislative and educational
reform.
1812: Alexander I defeats Napoleon on Russian soil.
1861: Alexander II emancipates Russia’s serfs.
1914: WWI begins; there are enormous losses, food
shortages and widespread unrest. St. Petersburg is
quickly renamed Petrograd to sound less German.
1917 – 1924: Following the February and October
Revolutions of 1917, Lenin’s Bolshevik Party takes control
of Russia. Tsar Nicholas II and his family are murdered
in 1918. Moscow becomes the capital again. Russia
is plunged into a bloody civil war. St. Petersburg is renamed Petrograd and after Lenin dies in 1924, Leningrad.
1934: The worst period of Stalin’s terror begins; it lasts
until 1941.
1941 – 1945: Germany attacks Russia on June 22 and
the Great Patriotic War begins. After sustaining heavy
losses, Russia begins to push German-forces back in
1943. Germany surrenders in 1945.
1953: Stalin dies. It’s estimated that 20 million people
died as a result of his purges, camps and forced famines. In 1954, Krushchev succeeds him.
1961: Yuri Gagarin becomes the first man in space.
1979: The Soviets invade Afghanistan, and in opposition, 64 countries boycott the 1980 Moscow Summer
Olympics.
1985: Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the
Communist Party and calls for reforms including perestroika (restructuring) and glasnost (openness).
1991 – 1999: Yeltsin becomes the first elected president of the Russian Federation in June. Economic crisis and instability ensues with rampant inflation and
privatization shaking the country.
1999 – 2008: Native Petersburger, Vladimir Putin
becomes President in March 2000. Russia becomes
more stable and prosperous, thanks to gas and oil
exports.
2008 – present: Medevdev becomes the third President of the Russian Federation in May, but after 4 years
Vladimir Putin once more takes the Presidential seat.
June - July 2015

61

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Bol. Balkansky per.
Bol. Bronnaya ul.
Bol. Dmitrovka ul.
Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul.
Bol. Gruzinskaya ul.
Bol. Karetny per.
Bol. Kazenny per.
Bol. Kharitonyevsky per.
Bol. Kiselny per.
Bol. Kislovsky per.
Bol. Kozikhinsky per.
Bol. Kozlovsky per.
Bol. Levshinsky per.
Bol. Lubyanka ul.
Bol. Molchanovka ul.
Bol. Nikitskaya ul.
Bol. Ordynka ul.
Bol. Palashevsky per.
Bol. Patriarshy per.
Bol. Polyanka ul.
Bol. Sadovaya ul.
Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul.
Bol. Spasskaya ul.
Bol. Staromonetny per.
Bol. Strochenovsky per.
Bol. Sukharevkaya pl.
Bol. Sukharevsky per.
Bol. Tatarskaya ul.
Bol. Tatarsky per.
Bol. Tishinsky per.
Bol. Vlasyevsky per.
Bol. Yakimanka ul.
Bol. Znamensky per.
Bolotnaya nab.
Bolotnaya pl.
Borodinskaya ul. (1ya)
Borodinskaya ul. (2ya)
Brestskaya ul. (1ya)
Brestskaya ul. (2ya)
Brodnikov per.
Butikovsky per.
Chayanova ul.
Chistoprudny bul.
Chisty per.
Delegatskaya ul.
Dobryninsky per. (1y)
Dokuchaev per.
Dolgorukovskaya ul.
Dubininskaya ul.
Durasovsky per.
Durova ul.
Ermolaevsky per.
Eropkinsky per.
Fadeeva ul.
Filippovsky per.
Furmanny per.
Gagarinsky per.
Gazetny per.
Gilyarovskogo ul.
Glazovsky per.
Gogolevsky bul.
Golikovsky per.

A-1/2
D-1/2
А/B-1
E-4
C-4
B-3
D-2
D-5
D-3/4
E-3
C-4
D-2
C/D-3
B-3/4
D-1
B-2
C-2
A-4
A-1/2
C-1
E-2
E-2
C/D-2
C-3
B-2
E-2
B-4
D-2
B-3
B/C-3
D-4/5
B-2
B-2
C-4/5
B-1/2
C/D-5
E-1
C-4
D-5
D-1
D-1
D-4/5
D-5
A-1
B-4
C-5
B-3/4
C-4
C-4
A-3/4
A-3
A/B-1
A/B-1
C-4/5
B-4
B-1
D/E-2
B-4
C-1
C-5
D-1
B-1
D-5
E-3
C-1
B-2
B-4
B-1
B-3
E-2
B-4
C-2/3
D-1
A/B-4
B-3/4
D-4

66 Moscow In Your Pocket

Golutvinsky per. (1y)
Goncharnaya nab.
Goncharnaya ul.
Goncharny per. (2y)
Gorokhovsky per.
Granatny per.
Grokholsky per.
Gusyatnikov per.
Ilinka ul.
Ipatyevsky per.
Kadashevskaya nab.
Kadashevsky per. (1y)
Kalanchevskaya ul.
Kalashny per.
Kazachy per. (1y)
Kazachy per. (2y)
Kazakova ul.
Kazansky per.
Kazarmeny per.
Khilkov per.
Khlebny per.
Khokhlovsky per.
Khvostov per. (1y)
Kievskaya ul.
Klimentovsky per.
Kolpachny per.
Kompozitorskaya ul.
Komsomolskaya pl.
Komsomolsky pr.
Konyushkovskaya ul.
Koptelsky per. (1y)
Korobeynikov per.
Korovy Val ul.
Kosmodamianskaya nab.
Kostyansky per.
Kotelnicheskaya nab.
Kotelnichesky per. (1y)
Kozitsky per.
Krasina ul.
Krasnaya pl. (Red Square)
Krasnaya presnya ul.
Krasnopresnenskaya nab.
Krasnoproletarskaya ul.
Krasnoprudnaya ul.
Kremlevskaya nab.
Krivokolenny per.
Kropotkinsky per.
Krutitsky per. (3y)
Krutitskaya nab.
Krymskay nab.
Krymsky proezd
Krymsky Val.
Kursovoy per.
Kutuzovsky pr.
Kuznetsky most ul.
Lavrsky per.
Lavrushinsky per.
Leninsky pr.
Leontievsky per.
Lesnaya ul.
Lubyansky proezd
Lyalin per.
Mal. Bronnaya ul.
Mal. Dmitrovka ul.
Mal. Gruzinskaya ul.
Mal. Karetny per.
Mal. Kozikhinsky per.
Mal. Nikitskaya ul.
Mal. Ordynka ul.
Mal. Polyanka ul.
Mal. Sukharevskaya pl.
Mal. Yakimanka ul.
Mal. Znamensky per.
Manezhnaya pl.
Manezhnaya ul.
Marksistskaya ul.

C-4
E-4
E-4
E-4
E-2
B-2
D-1
D-2
C-3
D-3
C-4
C-4
E-1
B-3
C-5
C-5
E-2
C-5
E-3
B-4
B-3
D/E-3
C-5
A-4
D-4
D-2/3
A/B-3
E-1
F-6
A-2/3
D-1
B-4
C-5
D/E-4
D-1
D/E-4
D-4
C-2
A/B-1, B-2
C-3
A-2
A-3
B-1
E-1
C-3
D-2
B-4
E-5
E-5
B-5
B-5
B/C-5
B/C-4
A-3
C/D-2
C-1
C-4
F-6
B-2
A-1
D-2
E-2/3
B-2
B-1/2
A-2
C-1
B-2
B-2
D-4/5
C-5
D-1
C-4
B/C-3
C-3
C-3
E-4

Maronovsky per.
Maroseyka ul.
Mashkova ul.
Merzlyakovsky per.
Milyutinsky per.
Miusskaya pl.
Mohovaya ul.
Molochny per.
Monetchikovsky per. (2y)
Monetchikovsky per. (3y)
Monetchikovsky per. (5y)
Monetchikovsky per. (6y)
Moskvoretskaya nab.
Myasnitskaya ul.
Mytnaya ul.
Neglinnaya ul.
Nikitsky bul.
Nikitsky per.
Nikoloyamskaya ul.
Nikolskaya ul.
Nikolsky per.
N. Krasnokholmskaya ul.
N. Krasnoselskaya ul.
Novaya Basmannaya ul.
Novaya pl.
Novinsky bul.
Novokrymsky pr.
Novokuznetskaya ul.
Novokuznetsky per. (1y)
Novokuznetsky per. (2y)
Novoryazanskaya ul.
Novy Arbat ul.
Obydensky per. (2y)
Okhotny ryad ul.
Olimpiysky pr.
Ostozhenka ul.
Ovchinnikovskaya nab.
Ozerkovskaya nab.
Ozerkovsky per.
Paveletskaya pl.
Petrovka ul.
Petrovsky bul.
Petrovsky per.
Pyzhevsky per.
Pl. Nikitskie Vorota
Plotnikov per.
Plyushchikha ul.
Podkolokolny per.
Podsosensky per.
Pogorelsky per.
Pokrovka ul.
Pokrovsky bul.
Pomerantsev per.
Posledny per.
Potapovsky per.
Povarskaya ul.
Pozharsky per.
Prechistenskaya nab.
Prechistensky per.
Presnensky val ul.
Prospekt Mira
Pushechnaya ul.
Pushkinskaya nab.
Pushkinskaya pl.
Pyatnitskaya ul.
Pevchesky per.
Raushskaya nab.
Romanov per.
Rozhdestvenka ul.
Rozhdestvensky bul.
Runovsky per.
Rybny per.
Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.
Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.

C-5
D-2/3
E-2
B-3
D-2
B-1
C-3
B-4
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-3
D-2
C-5
C-2
B-3
C-2/3
E-3/4
C-2/3
D-3
E-4/5
E-1
E-1
D-2
A-2/3
B-5
D-4/5
D-5
D-5
E-1
A/B-3
B-4
C-2/3
C-1
B-4/5
D-4
D-4
D-4
D-5
C-2
C-1/2
C-2
C-4
B-2
B-3
A-4
E-3
E-3
C-5
D/E-2
E-3
B-4
D-1
D-2
B-2/3
B-4
C-4
B-4
A-1/2
D-1
C/D-2
B-5
C-2
D-4
D-3
D-3
C-3
C-2
C/D-2
D-4
C-3
B/C-1
A/B-2
E-1/2
B-1

Sadovnicheskaya ul.
Sadovnichesky proezd
Samotyochnaya ul.
Serebryanicheskaya nab.
Shchepkina ul.
Sivtsev Vrazhek per.
Skatertny per.
Smolensky bul.
Smolenskaya ul.
Sofiyskaya nab.
Soymonovsky proezd
Solyanka ul.
Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y)
Spiridonovka ul.
Spiridonyevsky per.
Sretenka ul.
Sretensky bul.
Stanislavskogo ul.
Staraya pl.
Starokonyushenny per.
Staromonetny per.
Starosadsky per.
Stary Tolmachevsky per.
Stoleshnikov per.
Stolyarny per.
Strastnoy bul.
Sushchevskaya ul.
Sytinsky per.
Tarasa Shevchenko nab.
Tatarskaya ul.
Teatralny proezd
Teterinsky per.
Triumfalnaya pl.
Trubnaya ul.
Trubnikovsky per.
Tryokhprudny per.
Tsvetnoy bul.
Tverskaya ul.
Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul.
Tverskoy bul.
Usacheva ul.
Ustyinsky pr.
Valovaya ul.
Varsonofyevsky per.
Varvarka ul.
Vasilyevsky spusk pl.
Vasilyevskaya ul.
Vasnetsova per.
V. Radishchevskaya ul.
V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul.
Volhonka ul.
Vorontsovo pole
Vorontsovskaya ul.
Vozdvizhenka ul.
Voznesensky per.
Vspolny per.
Yakimanskaya nab.
Yakimansky proezd
Yauzsky bul.
Zemlyanoy Val ul.
Zhitnaya ul.
Zhukovskogo ul.
Znamenka ul.
Zoologicheskaya ul.

D-3/4
D-3
C-1
E-3
D-1
B-3
B-2/3
A-4
A-4
C-3
B-4
D-3
C-5
B-2
B-2
D-1
C-1
C-2
C-3
B-3/4
C-4
D-2/3
D-4
C-2
A-2
C-1/2
B-1
B-2
A-3
D-5
C-2
E-4
B-1
C-1
A/B-3
B-2
C-1
B-1/2
A/B-1
B -2
F-6
D-3/4
D-5
C/D-2
C-3
D-3
A/B-1
C-1
E-4
E-3
C-3/4
E-3
E-4/5
B/C-3
B-2
B-2
C-4
C-4
E-3
E-2/3/4

C-5
E-2
B/C-3
A-1/2

Abbreviations
Ul. - Ulitsa
Per. - Pereulok
Pr. - Prospekt
Pl. - Ploschad
Bul. - Bulvar
Nab. - Naberezhnaya
Bol. - Bolshaya
Mal. - Malaya

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© Студия Артемия Лебедева

Bulvar
Rokossovskogo

Troparyovo

Designer Stepan Lukyanov. Photo by Andrey Bezukladnikov

THE DRILLALIANS

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