Moscow In Your Pocket Oct/Nov 2014

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Moscow
October - November 2014
N°35
inyourpocket.com
Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
A Cultural Feast
Going out but staying
indoors
Get Out of Town
Autumn jewels outside
the MKAD
More than
10 years
in Russia!
October - November 2014 3 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Contents
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
Where to stay 45
Interview with concierge 46
Shopping 50
Russian souvenirs 51
Bookshops 52
Business directory 53
Expat & Lifestyle 54
The Expat Experience 56
Maps & Index
Metro map 59
City map 60
Street index 64
St. Petersburg 65
Foreword 4
In the News 5
Arrival & Getting Around 6
Public transport
City Basics 8
Language 9
Culture & Events 10
Concerts and exhibitions 10
Sport news 17
Gogol House 18
Features
Moscow Theatre life 19
Chelyabinsk 44
Where to eat 22
Russian cuisine 23
Interview with the chef 26
Outside the city 31
Nightlife 32
Dance and drink the night away
What to see 38
The Kremlin 38
River cruises 39
Churches and museums 40
Artistic places 42
Parks and gardens 43
www.facebook.com/MoscowYourPocket
Russian Matryoshkas
read the listing on page 50
4 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 5 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Foreword
RAY OF LIGHT
The annual ‘Krug Sveta’ festival, a dazzling son-et-lumiere
show that transforms Moscow’s historic buildings into
stunning stages for animated art, is back for its fourth year
in October – and organizers promise this edition will be
the biggest and best yet. The big switch-on is set for Octo-
ber 10 and for five nights the city’s most famous buildings
will become the backdrop for colorful video installations.
Prime sites include the Bolshoi Theater, Manezh Square
– which this year boasts a ‘media cube’ – and a chain of
displays linking VDNKh and Ostankino. The park at Tsarit-
syno is also a host this time. The theme of this year’s event
is ‘journeys’, and travelers on the city’s streets can enjoy
the spectacle free of charge as soon as the sun goes down
between October 10 and 14. www.lightfest.ru
HAPPY UNITY DAY
November 04 is Russia’s Day of Popular Unity. This na-
tional holiday is a new old holiday having been cel-
ebrated for the first time in 1649 and commemorates the
victorious uprising in 1612 by Minin and Pozharsky which
ejected the Polish forces from Moscow. Celebrated every
year from 1612 up until 1917, the holiday was resurrected
in 2005. It is viewed by most observers as a replacement
holiday for the now-abolished holiday of November
7 which commemorated the Revolution. Creating the
confusion of how to you congratulate someone on this
holiday…Happy Unity Day!
WINTER IS COMING
The times they are a-changing in Russia. After three years
when the clocks were set to summer time all year round,
the hour is set to go back on October 26. And, according to
new legislation approached earlier this year, this switch will
be permanent – meaning no further alterations in subse-
quent years. It means that time differences between Russia
and the rest of the world will not change in the fall – Russia
will remain two hours ahead of Central European Time, three
hours ahead of the UK and Ireland, and eight hours ahead of
Eastern Time in the US and Canada. Next summer, those time
differences will be reduced by one hour as a result of daylight
saving time changes elsewhere in the world.
Moscow In Your Pocket
founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket.
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A.
tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,
General Director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected]
[email protected], russia.inyourpocket.com
General Manager Chris Gilbert, [email protected]
Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, [email protected]
Researcher Wabke Waaijer, [email protected]
Design Malvina Markina, [email protected]
Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, [email protected]
Contributors Andy Potts, Maria Stambler
Customer Service Manager
Tanya Kharitonova, [email protected]
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written
permission fromthe publisher and copyright owner. The brand name
InYour Pocket is used under license fromUAB InYour Pocket.
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from
paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and sug-
gestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
informationat thetimeof goingtopress andassumenoresponsibility
for changes and errors.
© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
© Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl
Published 6 times per year with supplements,
N
o
35, 01.10.2014, 60 000 copies.
For children aged 16 years and over.
LEGENDARY HOTEL TO OPEN
The world-famous Moskva hotel, as famously seen on the
Stolichnaya vodka label, is set to reopen its doors as the
‘Four Seasons Hotel Moscow’. The fully renovated building,
transformed from a Soviet classic of the 1930s into a con-
temporary space that blends historical integrity with mod-
ern comfort and convenience, is taking bookings from Oc-
tober 30. The hotel, ideally placed overlooking Red Square,
has 180 room and suites with picture-postcard views of
downtown Moscow – taking in the towers of the Kremlin,
the domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral and the Bolshoi Theater.
The new opening also boasts two world-class restaurants
under the guidance of chef David Hemmerle. Quadrum of-
fers an Italian mene, while Bystro has a Russian menu with
a Scandinavian accent. Like the recently-opened Four Sea-
sons Hotel in St. Petersburg, the renewed Moscow residence
is out to bring contemporary sophistication in contact with
Russia’s rich and distinctive history, and add another name
to the city’s famous assortment of top-notch places to stay.
www.fourseasons.com/moscow
FREE ENTRY TO MUSEUMS
Moscow has a bewildering array of museums, from grand
aristocratic estates to cozy apartments of famous people.
Getting to visit them all can be a time-consuming – and ex-
pensive – business. But help is at hand; on the third Sunday of
every month the city authorities throw open the doors free
of charge. About 50 venues operated by Moscow’s Depart-
ment of Culture are included in the big event, which runs on
October 19 and November 16. Highlights include the Multi-
media Museum, which attracts some of the city’s best photo
exhibitions, the hugely impressive Cosmonautics Museum at
VDNKh and the historic buildings of some of Moscow’s best-
loved parks at Tsaritsyno, Izamailovo and Kolomenskoye. Pri-
vately-owned museums and galleries, and state-run venues
like the Tretyakov or the Historical Museum on Red Square do
not take part in this regular open doors program.
In his painting “Golden Autumn 1985”, Isaac Levitan cap-
tured the essence of the spectacular life and color of Rus-
sia’s nature before the coming of winter. Levitan aside,
autumn gave and continues giving many great Russian
artists and poets the impulse to create their most emo-
tional and memorable art. After all, this is the season that
was most beloved by Russia’s greatest poet Alexander
Pushkin.
This is why it’s such a common misconception that this is
the season for staying inside in the warmth and comfort.
Sure, any visitor to Moscow simply cannot miss out on
a visit to the city’s great theaters and museums such as
the Bolshoi and the Tretyakov Gallery. But just imagine the
beauty and the astounding kaleidoscope of colors you
can behold by getting dressed warm, getting outdoors
to one of Moscow’s many beautiful parks (see page 43)
with a hot beverage in hand. The hip and trendy Gorky
Park or the historical Arkhangelskoe Estate are just a few
of our favorites.
Staying in Russia a bit longer and want a real Russian expe-
rience? Excellent! A trip to Chelyabinsk (see page 44), our
chosen city for this issue, is highly recommended. Even that
meteorite knew where to catch a glimpse of some of Rus-
sia’s most beautiful nature!
Autumn is also the time when cultural life starts waking up
and getting back into full swing after a hot and hazy sum-
mer. No matter what you’re into - concerts, art exhibitions,
opera or ballet, drama, comedy performances or some
good old healthy sport - Moscow’s got it all in autumn.
You can find out all about the coolest events and more on
pages 10-21. All this action is bound to make you work up
an appetite so, as always, we’ve chosen the best places in
town where you can grab a bit and quench your thirst.
However you choose to enjoy the vibrant colors of the
falling autumn leaves or the sparkle of the first frost in the
countryside you do in Moscow this autumn, we want to
know how all this beauty inspires you at www.facebook.
com/MoscowInYourPocket. Have fun!
Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket.
COVER STORY
Flotilla Radisson Moscow. Designed for year-round
navigation, these stately vessels ply their way between
the Radisson Royal Ukraina Hotel and the Novospassky
Bridge on a cruise that takes you past landmarks includ-
ing the Kremlin and Gorky Park. Read more on page 39.
Мoсква В Твоем Кармане
Учредитель и издатель
ООО «Красная Шапка»
Адрес редакции и издателя:
Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург
Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.
тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65
факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64
Главный редактор
Бонни ван дер Велде
Цена свободная.
Для детей старше 16 лет.
Отпечатано ООО“Келла Принт”,
191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул.
Тележная, д. 17.
Заказ N
o
26829
Свидетельство о регистрации
средства массовой информации
Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03
выдано Северо-Западным
региональным управлением
комитета РФ по печати.
Тираж 60 000 экз. N
o
35.
01.10.2014
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
In the News
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ABOUT IYP
We have come a long way in the 22 years since we
published the first InYour Pocket guide - to Vilnius
in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the
largest publisher of locally-produced city guides
in the world. The publication earlier this year of
guides to Johannesburg and to the islands of
the Dutch Caribbean - our first guides in the
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6 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 7 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around
TAXIS
Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other
Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company,
you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey.
Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com
English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s pre-
mier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300
drivers in Moscow.
New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmos-
cowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru
TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru
Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru
XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru
It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and
negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To
indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm
down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it
is advisable to take caution by traveling with a compan-
ion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are
notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the
city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree
to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses,
slam the door and move on to the next Lada.
Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and
its excellent public transport system. Although it is home
to over 12 million people, Moscow’s public transportation
has been hailed as being amongst the best and most ef-
ficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground,
trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the
prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe
weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in
service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick
out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis with-
in seconds. You will never find yourself without a method
of getting from A to B in Moscow!
ARRIVING BY PLANE
Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located
in the north, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnu-
kovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far
the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre,
dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35
- 45 minutes.
Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between
00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so
it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save your-
self being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when
taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 -
2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimi-
date you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is
reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware
that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers
can not be depended on to have change, if you want to
avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change
in the terminal beforehand.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience wheth-
er you are coming from east or west, Moscow’s many
train stations are always bustling with travelers about
to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early
in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya
ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usu-
ally hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St.
Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than
wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dan-
gerous at night.
BELORUSSKY STATION
Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and
Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Sheremetyevo Air-
port via the Aeroexpress train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava
pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www.
belorusskiy.railclient.ru.
KAZANSKY STATION
Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Sa-
mara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.
2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.
kazanskiy.railclient.ru.
KIEVSKY STATION
As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bu-
charest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Vnukovo
Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo
Vokzala 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.
kievskiy.railclient.ru.
KURSKY STATION
Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station.
QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
266 53 10, www.kursky-vokzal.ru.
LENINGRADSKY STATION
Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Peters-
burg.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.leningradskiy.railclient.ru.
PAVELETSKY STATION
This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the
Aeroexpress train.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, MPavelets-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.railclient.ru.
RIZHSKY STATION
You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in
Latvia.QD-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495
631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.
YAROSLAVSKY STATION
The starting point for Trans-Siberian adventures, trains go
to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Ir-
kutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination
Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomol-
skaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the
metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between
each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the
beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket
is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine,
or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 40Rbl,
although buying in bulk is cheaper (11 for 300Rbl). On the
more modern trains, there is an electonicr sign in each car-
rige, announcing which station the train is approaching.
However in the older carriages, it is simply a voice over,
which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so for those who
aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to
count the number of stops you need to go.
Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as
the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy
to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the
metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward,
with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows
and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the
next stop inside,
Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take
some getting used to for a new comer to Moscow. What can
look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate
form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the
driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere
along the route to let them out. The average cost is 30Rbl
- be sure to have some small change on you when taking a
marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!
CAR RENTAL
AVIS RUSSIA CAR RENTAL
AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports,
as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobrynin-
sky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel.
(+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
HERTZ
Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an out-
let at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo air-
ports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect
a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges.
Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A
AEROEXPRESS TRAINS
The most reliable way of travelling to and from air-
ports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains
run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sherem-
etyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnu-
kovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and
Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is con-
nected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress
ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail ter-
minals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel
agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow,
or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of
sales outlets can be found on the company’s website,
where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.
aeroexpress.ru.
Download their free mobile app and you will be able to
purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone
with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at
the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly
from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card Pay-
Pass or VISA PayWave hold-
er, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).
Odin bilet - One ticket
Dva bileta - Two tickets
8 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 9 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
City Basics
REGISTRATION
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holi-
days). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to miss-
ing your flight while officials interrogate you.
MONEY
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations,
banks and large hotels.
FOREIGNER PRICES
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
CUSTOMS
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the
GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to
complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’
upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands
of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are
over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you
are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s
report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7,
bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travel-
ling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and
2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as
Estonia, the allowance is less.
MOBILE PHONES
You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.
To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.
You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register
your new sim card.
ALCOHOL
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what
is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scien-
tist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.
Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to
choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight
as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the
most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye
shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party
drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that
is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.
POST
Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If
you need to get something in or out of the country in
a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or
Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these
offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post
office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post
box around the city.
CLIMATE
Russia in the autumn - rain, wind and then a little flurry
of snow. In October Russia’s beautiful ‘golden autumn’ is
usually fully underway as the trees start to turn beautiful
shades of red, orange and yellow. By the time November
arrives though snow will probably already be falling, mixed
with the odd bit of icy rain, so stick to wearing layers, wa-
terproof shoes and of course don’t forget your umbrella.
BE ON GUARD!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if
you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or
Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, par-
ticularly at night.
Moscow Tourist Helpline (English)
(+7) 800 220 00 02.
Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (
o
C)
T
e
m
p
a
r
a
t
u
re
, o
C
R
a
in
fa
ll, m
m
Average temperature (
o
C)
Lowest recorded temperature (
o
C)
Language
POCKET DICTIONARY:
OBMYVAT
Whether you’ve just bought a new car or an apartment,
maybe a very expensive fridge or fancy new camera, in Rus-
sia after buying this thing you need to obmyvat or ‘wash’ it,
to ensure that it will not bring you bad luck. Wash it with
what you ask? With alcohol of course! For example, if you’ve
got a new flat, invite your friends over, dip the new keys
into your vodka shots and drink away. Alternatively you can
also obmyvat getting a new job, finishing your military ser-
vice or getting your diploma, by for example dipping the
corner of your contract or certificate into the vodka shot
and then gulping down the shot. Cheers!
USEFUL PHRASES
Basic frases
No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да
Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте
Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания
Thank you Spasibo Спасибо
Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините
Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста
I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю
I don't speak
Russian
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Я не говорю
по-русски
Do you speak
English?
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Вы говорите
по-английски?
Help! Pomogitye! Помогите!
I need some
help
Mne nuzhna
pomoshch
Мне нужна
помошь
I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу
I (don't) like it
Mnye (ne)
nravitsa
Мне (не)
нравится
May I? Mozhno? Можно?
Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...?
I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю
How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит?
It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого!
Large/small
Bolshoy/
malenky
Большой/
маленкий
Good/bad
Khorosho/
plokho
Хорошо/
плохо
It hurts! Bolno! Больно!
Today Sevodnya Сегодня
Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра
Could you write
it down?
Zapishite
pazhalusta
Запишите,
пожалуйста
Toilets Tualet Туалет
Stop here please
Ostanavite
pazhalusta
Остановите,
пожалуйста
When? At what
time?
Kogda? Vo
skolko?
Когда? Во
сколько?
What time is it? Katory chas? Который час?
Who? Kto? Кто?
How do you say
that in Russian?
Kak skazat eto
pa-russky?
Как сказать
это по-русски?
No problem Bez problem Без проблем
Of course Koneshno Конечно
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником!
Password Parol Пароль
ALPHABET
А A З Z П P Ч CH
Б B И I Р R Ш SH
В V Й Y С S Щ SHCH
Г G К K Т T Ы Y
Д D Л L У U Э E
Е E М M Ф F Ю YU
Ё YO Н N Х KH Я YA
Ж ZH О O Ц TS Ъ, Ь no sound
10 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 11 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
04.10 SATURDAY - 02.11 SUNDAY
19:00 CHOSEN FOR THE CHOSEN ONES
Belcanto Foundation is delighted to announce the inter-
national arts festival “Chosen for the Chosen Ones” that is
fittingly set to take place in one of the most luxurious man-
sions on Moscow’s most extravagant street every week-
end of October and the first Sunday of November. Guests
of Mokhovaya street 11 will witness firsthand genuine art
and refinement as Russian and foreign musicians bring
pleasure to the ears.
The theme of the first performance on October 4th is
“The Oscars” - ladies are required to look absolutely
fabulous in their best red carpet attire to enjoy classical
cinema music. Red is the color of the night on October
11th because it will be about the “Passion of Argentinian
Tango”!
On the evening of October 18th, ladies will once again
wear beautiful red outfits for the “Seasons of the Year”
performance by the Mobilis ensemble of solists. October
26th will be the night of Flamenco, so ladies will need to
look mysterious and seductive in black.
The final performance on November 2nd will take the
audience to a faraway city - Astor Piazzolla’s lively tango
shows the audience what “Autumn in Buenos Aires” looks
like. Ladies in red, please!
QС-3, Concert hall on Mokhovaya, Mokhovaya ul.
11, bldg. 11, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 965 312 53 71,
www.belcantofund.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Tickets
600 - 2,200Rbl.
ORGAN CONCERTS
The Evangelical-Lutheran Stt. Peter-and-Paul’s Cathedral
has full organs and makes good use of them by staging
regular organ recitals as well as performances of choral
and sacral music. “Night in a Cathedral” brings brilliant vid-
eo installations and breath-taking classical music perfor-
mances to the cathedral every Friday at 22:00. The concept
of video art, which has become so common these days,
receives a very new artistic meaning with this project. A
symbiosis of sounds and visual images, composers and
artists, cultural and genre spirituality - this event is a ka-
leidoscope of bright visual and auditory depictions. Every
Saturday at 16:00 they also have special performances for
kids, called “Fairy tales with the organ”.QD-3, Evangeli-
cal-Lutheran Stt. Peter-and-Paul’s cathedral, Staro-
sadsky per. 7/10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 965 312 53
71, www.nochvsobore.com. Tickets 600 and 1,200Rbl.
“Fairy tales with the organ” 600Rbl, for children 300Rbl.
SOVREMENNIK THEATRE
QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19А,, MChistye Prudy, tel.
(+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru.
STANISLAVSKY AND NEMIROVICH-DANCHEN-
KO MOSCOW MUSIC THEATRE
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru.
TAGANKA THEATRE
QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.
OCTOBER EVENTS
03.10 FRIDAY
20:00 AZNAVOUR
Not for the first time, Charles
Aznavour is on a farewell
tour - but at the age of 90 he’s
more than earned the right
to sign off from the stage.
Renowned as ‘The Frank
Sinatra of France’, and one of
the few European singers to
duet with Ole Blue Eyes him-
self, Aznavour’s fame in this part of the world also stems from
his Armenian roots and his fluency in Russian. The affection is
mutual: Aznavour, aside from his diplomatic work in support
of Armenian, has been a regular performer in Russia and the
rest of the former USSR and even launched his 2007 album
Colore ma Vie here in Moscow. So it promises to be an emo-
tional event for the maestro and his fans alike.QCrocus City
Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.charlesaznavour.com. Tickets 2,500 - 25,000Rbl.
04.10 SATURDAY - 26.10 SUNDAY
17:00 ORGAN PLUS
This year’s Organ Plus festival at Tsaritsyno is dedicated to the
great German composers. Starting with an evening of Bach -
whose music is a recurring motif throughout the month - it
also takes in Mendelssohn’s grand ‘Hymn of Praise’ Cantata
and an evening inspired by Goethe’s masterpiece, Faust. Great
music is delivered by great performers including the German
organist Gunther Rost and the unique male soprano Robert
Crowe, while the renowned Russian cellist Alexander Knyazev
performs Bach’s timeless suites for solo ‘cello. Full details of
the festival can be found on the www.tsaritsyno.net website.
QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 499 725
72 87, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Tickets 500 - 1,100Rbl.
Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovs-
ky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they
all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic
place. Live music from local and international performers
is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and
on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the run-
ning of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar
competitions and other curious events.
CONCERT HALLS AND CLUBS
CROCUS CITY HALL
QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.crocus-hall.ru.
LUZHNIKI STADIUM
QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62,
www.luzhniki.ru.
MOSCOW CONSERVATORY, THE GREAT HALL
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru.
MOSCOW PHILARMONIC SOCIETY
QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
RAY JUST ARENA
QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495
940 67 55, www.rayjustarena.ru.
SK OLIMPISKY
QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33
33, www.olimpik.ru.
STADIUM LIVE
QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495
540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru.
STATE KREMLIN PALACE
QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel.
(+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.
THEATRES
BOLSHOI THEATRE
QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455
55 55, www.bolshoi.ru.
HELIKON-OPERA
QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
695 65 84, www.helikon.ru.
MALY THEATRE
QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK
MAYAKOVSKY THEATRE
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru.
MOON THEATRE
QD-5, Ul. Malaya Ordynka 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 953 13 17, www.lunatheatre.ru.
MOSCOW ENGLISH THEATRE
Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Diferent perfor-
mance venues, check the website for details.
THEATRE PRAKTICA
QB-2, Bol. Kozikhinsky per. 30, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 55 65, www.praktikatheatre.ru
12 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 13 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
27.11 THURSDAY
20:00 DIMA BILAN
The cheeky chappy of Rus-
sian pop is back in action.
Bilan’s greatest interna-
tional fame comes from
his two Eurovision per-
formances: a runners-up
finish after an odd show
featuring a dancer climb-
ing out of his piano and
a triumphant win in 2008
accompanied by Olympic
figure skating champ Evgeny Plushchenko. Since then he’s
not been so prominent for his music, attempting instead
to develop an acting career and appearing as a judge on
the Russian version of ‘The Voice’. But he remains perhaps
the country’s ideal son-in-law, and a good-natured eve-
ning is in prospect here.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-
66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.
bilandima.ru. Tickets 600 - 12,000Rbl.
27.11 THURSDAY
20:00 KEN HENSLEY
There could hardly be a
greater contrast between
Bilan and the other big
gig tonight. Ken Hensley,
famed frontman of British
metal legends Uriah Heep,
is widely acclaimed as one
of the founding fathers of
hard rock. When bands
like Metallica, Guns’n’Roses
and RHCP cite your work as
an influence, it’s fair to assume rock immortality is assured.
Adept on guitar and keys, blessed with a strong back cat-
alogue of his own hits, Hensley is one of the key figures
in the relentless march of music that ‘goes to 11’.QClub
Teatr, Staraya Basmannaya ul. 20, bldg. 1, MKurskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 228 20 80, www.ken-hensley.com. Tickets
1,300 - 3,000Rbl.
21.11 FRIDAY
20:00 GORAN BREGOVICH
The riotous world of Bal-
kan brass has picked up
a host of fans in Russia,
combining as it does the
raucous frenzy of a vil-
lage revelry with a whiff
of that distinctive Slavic
melancholy. Bosnia’s
Goran Bregovic and his
Weddings and Funerals
Orchestra is one of the
leading exponents of the art, and his on-going tour in
support of the latest album ‘Champagne for Gypsies’ has
been a huge success. Bregovic’s fame has attracted some
unlikely collaborations - Iggy Pop and Cesare Evoria are
among those who have recorded with him - but fans
mostly revel in the wild and energetic music-making
of his live shows.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11,
MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.
goranbregovic.rs. Tickets 1,500 - 6,000Rbl.
21.11 FRIDAY
20:00 ROXETTE
When Roxette played in
Moscow in 1995 the con-
cert was the subject of an
hour-long TV documen-
tary combining on-stage
footage with reportage
of the band’s arrival in the
Russian capital. Back then,
visiting Western acts were
still headline news for posi-
tive reasons, rather than a
cause for moral outrage among publicity-seeking politi-
cos. This show won’t get anything like the same reaction,
although the most recent appearance here a couple of
years back promises a crowd-pleasing evening of pop-
rock hits from the authors of Joyride and It Must Have
Been Love.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMya-
kinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.roxette.se. Tickets
2,000 - 15,000Rbl.
25.11 TUESDAY
20:00 ALEXANDER GRADSKY
In the USSR rock music wasn’t exactly popular. Stuffed-
shirt apparatchiks watched with horror as the ill-disci-
plined frenzy of guitars steadily infiltrated from the west.
But for Alexander Gradsky the new music was a ticket to
fame. His duet with Polish band Tarakany in 1963 is be-
lieved to be the first ever rock performance by a Russian;
his subsequent career cemented his place as the father
of Russian rock. Now celebrating 50 years in the business
(and his 65th birthday), this gala show promises a feast of
nostalgia.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMya-
kinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru.
Tickets 3,000 - 8,000Rbl.
17.10 FRIDAY
20:00 THEORY OF A DEADMAN
Hot on the heels of their best album to date, Canadian
post-grunge rockers Theory of a Deadman are about to
make their Russian debut. What kept them, and what
have we been missing? Well, they shot to prominence
back in 2002 after working with Nickelback’s Chad
Krueger, but we won’t hold that against them. Subse-
quently they’ve carved out a niche as one of the heavi-
est acts of the past decade or so. This year’s album,
‘SaVages’, has been likened to a musical apocalypse
and taps into the disturbing vibe of the band’s earliest
releases. Let the darkness descend …QRay Just Arena,
Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495
665 99 99, www.theoryofadeadman.com. Tickets
1,590 - 8,000Rbl.
22.10 WEDNESDAY
20:00 LENNY KRAVITZ
Some people take the concept of a one-man band
more literally than others. For Lenny Kravitz, produc-
ing a recording where he supplies lead vocals, back-
ing vocals and all instrumentals is not uncommon. But
since he blazed into the public eye back in 1993 with
‘Are you gonna go my way?’ he’s been a reliably distinc-
tive voice in the rock choir. Backing his latest album,
‘Strut’, Kravitz is kicking off his latest world tour here in
Moscow and taking the opportunity to recap a 25-year
career with a new batch of songs that, he says, allowed
him to recapture his High School musical passions.
QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino,
tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.lennykravitz.com. Tick-
ets 2,500 - 15,000Rbl.
23.10 THURSDAY
20:00 ANI LORAK
Ukrainian-born Ani Lorak is one of the brightest pop stars
of the former USSR, and her current show, ‘Carolina’, has
thrilled audiences from Kiev to Baku. Part musical, part
pop concert, ‘Carolina’ channels the spirit of smash-hit
stage shows like ‘Mamma Mia’ to tell Lorak’s own story of
her journey to fame. Like any musical, it’s a bit schmaltz-y
in places, but slick production values make it an intriguing
look at current popular tastes in Russian mass entertain-
ment.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyaki-
nino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.anilorak.ua. Tickets
800 - 18,000Rbl.
NOVEMBER EVENTS
03.11 MONDAY
19:00 ARASH
There’s more to perky pop hitmaker Arash than might im-
mediately meet the eye. In Russia he’s best known for his
collaborations with trash-pop pin-up Anna Semonovich
or representing Azerbaijan at Eurovision, but this Tehran-
born musician has a wider audience and a wider range of
interests. An exponent of Euro-pop for a new Europe, the
best of his music blends the Persian rhythms of his up-
bringing with the slick production values of his adopted
Swedish home. It makes for a strangely infectious cock-
tail of east and west and has stretched his fame across a
cultural divide between continents. Relatively unknown in
the Anglo-sphere, he could be an intriguing discovery -
check out his Crocus City gig and see for yourself.QCrocus
City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499
550 00 55, www.arash.com. Tickets 1,800 - 4,500Rbl.
BUYING CONCERT TICKETS
Tickets for most events can be bought at ticket offices
and kiosks (teatralnaya kassa), of which there are many in
the city centre – they are usually very easy to spot as they
tend to be plastered in posters for concerts and shows.
Kassir.ru The only comprehensive website that offers
their event listings in English. Payment options include
cash (when picking up the tickets or if delivered) or
credit card (MC/V).
Bileter.ru This site has the most comprehensive list-
ings available, but is only in Russian. Payment options
include cash (when picking up the tickets or if deliv-
ered) or credit card (MC/V).
For all the latest concert, event and
exhibition news follow us on facebook at
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
14 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 15 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
THROUGH 16.11 SUNDAY
OSCAR WILDE
Feel like you’re not get-
ting enough Britishness in
your life? The State Pushkin
Museum might have a so-
lution for you. For the first
time ever, lovers of British
art will get a comprehen-
sive examination of Aubrey
Beardsley’s work, thanks to
loans from British institu-
tions including the Victoria
and Albert Museum, the British Museum and Tate. “Oscar
Wilde. Aubrey Beardsley. A Russian Perspective” covers the
iconography of Wilde and Beardsley during their lifetimes,
and will be accompanied by a special education program,
which includes film screenings and lectures from and talks
by the exhibition’s curators, literary critics and art histo-
rians.QC-3, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts,
Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609
95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 150 - 300Rbl.
16.10 THURSDAY - 18.11 TUESDAY
ART IN MOTION
Soviet art wasn’t exclusively devoted to heroic socialist re-
alism - it maintained a strong experimental streak that ex-
ploded into life whenever the screws of state control were
relaxed. The 1960s cultural thaw inspired the ‘Dvizheniya’
(Movement) group of artists. Taking their cue from the
Constructivists who were prominent in the early years
of Soviet art, they moved away from the long-favored
state style and returned to the early 20th century pre-
occupation with creating a unified - and unifying - artistic
language. Despite sailing close to the winds of acceptable
cultural expression, the group was even able to exhibit
beyond the Iron Curtain. This year marks the 50th anniver-
sary of Dvizheniya’s debut show, and the Art Story gallery
is celebrating with a collection of 150 works by 13 lead-
ing members of the movement.QB-1, ArtStory, Staropi-
menovsky per. 14, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650
13 43, www.art-story.com. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Entrance free.
EXHIBITIONS
THROUGH 26.10 SUNDAY
THE ART OF TRAVELLING
Sketches from around Europe are on display at the Institute
of Russian Realist Art as part of an engaging exhibition of
work by Anatoly Kokorin. Despite the difficulties of travel
during the Soviet era, Kokorin was able to explore much of
Europe - and captured his impressions in a series of elegant
sketches. His works, whether they plunge into the crowds
on the London Underground or soar above the tiled roofs of
Tallinn, are far more than tourist snaps: Kokorin had a knack
of identifying the pulse of a city’s life rather than merely re-
producing familiar views of famous sights. The exhibition
also includes examples of Kokorin’s illustrations for chil-
dren’s books, including his interpretations of the fairy tales
of Hans Christian Andersen.QInstitute of Russian Realist
Art, Novospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Der-
benevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12
12, www.rusrealart.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 50 -150Rbl. Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.
THROUGH 10.10 FRIDAY
YUSUPOV
“The Yusupov Album” is an
exhibition of old photo-
graphs from the end of the
19th century and begin-
ning of the 20th century
taken from the archives of
the Yusupovs and exhibit-
ed in an open-air setting in
the berceau gallery at the
Arkhangelskoe Estate. One
of the first people to rent
out the estate in the 1860s was a Swiss man by the name
of Emile Pricam and at that time many Russian masters of
photography were working there. There are also some
amateur photos, which, perhaps, were taken by members
of the Yusupov family.QState Museum-Estate Arkhan-
gelskoe, 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7)
498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon
- Fri 10:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 21:00. Ad-
mission park (150Rbl).
THROUGH 19.10 SUNDAY
HONEY, I REORGANIZED THE COLLECTION
Art lover Philip Cohen never assumed his personal collec-
tion of the great names of contemporary art would ever
be shown to the public - the neo-conceptualism he favors
is not always something ideally suited to a gallery environ-
ment. Yet part of the very nature of his preferred artists
- the likes of Warhol, McCarthy, Broodthaers and others - is
the desire to build artistic relationships with viewers, to
move the creative center away from the artist and make
it a shared endeavor involving audiences as well. Cohen
began his collection in 1993 with Allan McCollum ‘Five
Perfect Vehicles’- one of the works on display at the Multi-
media Art Museum in Moscow. But the underlying theme
of every work in the show is a determination to see the
continued evolution of art in all its forms.QB-4, MAMM
(Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka
16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.
mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
mission 50 - 400Rbl.
CIRQUE ÉLOIZE
10.10 FRIDAY - 12.10 SUNDAY
CIRQUE ÉLOIZE
Visits from the world-famous Cirque de Soleil are ea-
gerly awaiting - notwithstanding Russia’s own mastery
of the Big Top, the international troupe from Canada
never fails to deliver a show-stopping event in its own
right. In 2014, meanwhile, audiences are being treated
to a new spectacle. Cirque Éloize, a spin-off founded
in 1994, has long earned a great reputation for push-
ing the boundaries of circus art and has already thrilled
Moscow audiences with its ‘Rain’ show.
This time we get Cirque Éloize iD, a modern-day Romeo
& Juliet from the heart of the urban jungle. A cutting-
edge contemporary soundtrack and a dazzling stage
show bring together a fresh new take on an eternal love
story. Combining the grace of ballet with the breathtak-
ing showmanship of a top acrobat, the production is set
to wow audiences in Russia just as it has in dozens of
cities around the world. October brings just five Mos-
cow dates - book early!QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-
66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.
cirque-eloize.com. Tickets 1,600 - 3,800Rbl.
RUSSIAN MOTIVES
THROUGH 30.11 SUNDAY
TREASURES FROM THE SOUTH
The ancient Samatians, a nomadic tribe which wandered
from the Volga to the Danube - used their exquisite gold
as a means of communicating with the gods. That’s why
their prize ornaments and weapons were often buried
with their chiefs, leaving a breathtaking legacy of beauti-
ful works of art dating back to the fifth century BC. This
collection was assembled by the Museum of Astrakhan
during the late 20th century after extensive excavations
of burial mounds in the region. Works include many
items in the ‘animal style’ also seen among the neighbor-
ing Scythian tribes: deer, panthers, horses and sheep are
intertwined in staggering detail.
THROUGH 16.05 SATURDAY
TRADITIONAL CRAFT
FROM PAST TO PRESENT
Painted lacquer snuffboxes became hugely fashion-
able in the late 18th century, and quickly evolved into
a celebration of traditional Russian cultural themes.
The dark backgrounds gave rise to a host of brightly-
colored fairytale scenes, some inspired by folk tales,
others by literary classics. It’s a snapshot of the Russian
landscape, its dense forests, mighty rivers and mythi-
cal lost cities, and it’s a tradition which survived the
Soviet era without being pressed into propaganda ser-
vice. Russian masters of lacquer painting have shaped
the development of this medium all over the world. To
celebrate this rich tradition, the All-Russian Decorative
Art Museum is staging a special exhibition. More than
300 works by masters from Palekh, Fedoskino, Mstyora
and Kholui form the basis of the display, which in-
cludes several items never seen before by the general
public. An important part of the show focuses on con-
temporary lacquerwork, showing how this tradition
continues to thrive and develop in the 21st century.
QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegats-
kaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01
46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 -
21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue
and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl.
16 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 17 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Culture & Events Culture & Events
TOUGH TASK FOR CSKA
This year’s Champions League draw has left CSKA Moscow
fans with a strong sense of deja-vu – the Army Men are set to
play German champions Bayern Munich and English Premier
League winners Manchester City once again, just as they did
a year ago. Italy’s AS Roma makes up the quartet in Group
E. Last season both Bayern and City picked up maximum
points against the Russian team, which failed to progress in
the tournament after managing a solitary win at home to
Viktoria Plzen of the Czech Republic. This time round Leonid
Slutsky’s team begins the campaign at home to Bayern on
September 30 in a game due to be played behind closed
doors as a result of fans misbehaving at Champions League
games last season. The next match is on October 21 at home
to Manchester City – ironically one of the teams which com-
plained about racist abuse when visiting Russia last season.
Roma visit on November 25 to complete the group stages
games at Arena Khimki. For ticket information check out
www.pfc-cska.com closer to the game days.
There’s also Europa League action in Moscow this fall, with
Dynamo Moscow making it to the group stage of the com-
petition for the first time. The Blue-and-Whites face PSV
Eindhoven on October 2, Estoril of Portugal on November 6
and Greece’s Panathinaikos on November 27. All games are
due to kick off at 8pm at Arena Khimki and ticket informa-
tion will appear on www.fcdynamo.ru.
Getting to Arena Khimki is easiest by suburban train from
Moscow’s Leningradsky Vokzal, or from the rail station next
to Petrovsko-Razumovskaya metro station. Trains from the
city to Khimki station take about 30 minutes, and a one-
way ticket is 53 rubles. Bus 345 for Rechnoi Vokzal metro
station also runs close to the stadium, but traffic in the
evening rush hour can be very heavy.
SLAM STARS GO TO MOSCOW
The Kremlin Cup is Moscow’s biggest tennis event and this
year it has attracted a decent field in both the men’s and
women’s competitions, with two US Open winners signed
up to play. Local interest is likely to focus on the ladies,
where recent US Open Women’s Doubles winner Ekaterina
Makarova will compete. The World number 18 is the top-
ranked Russian in a strong draw that also includes Petra
Kvitova (world number 4) Anjelika Kerber of Germany and
US Open runner-up Carolina Wozniacki. In the men’s com-
petition Milos Raonic is the top seed but recent US Open
Champion Marin Cilic of Serbia is likely to be the star at-
traction. Russia’s hopes rest on Mikhail Yuzhny and Dmitry
Tursu. The competition, which celebrates its 25th anniver-
sary, will be played at Olimpiisky from October 11-19.
By Andy Potts
What’s going on?
facebook.com/
inyourpocket
HOCKEY TESTS AHEAD
The KHL season continues with Dynamo looking to pick up
after an uncertain start and CSKA hoping to maintain its
good form from the early games. The pick of the games this
fall includes CSKA’s home game against Ak Bars Kazan on
October 21: Ak Bars is now coached once again by Zinetula
Bilyaletdinov, former team Russia chief, and the Tatars will
hope he can add to his trophy laden CV by leading the
team to the Gagarin Cup for the third time. On October 25
the Army Men host Mike Keenan’s Metallurg Magnitogorsk,
last season’s champion, and will have to find a way of stop-
ping free-scoring forward Sergei Mozyakin. November 12
sees CSKA take on Lokomotiv Yaroslavl, Western Confer-
ence finalists last time around.
Loko also plays in Moscow on October 7 against Dynamo,
and Luzhniki will also get a visit from SKA St. Petersburg
– Ilya Kovalchuk, Viktor Tikhonov and all – on October 31.
November 2 sees league newcomer Jokerit Helsinki travel
to Dynamo under the guidance of Erkka Westerlund, the
coach who led Finland to Olympic bronze in Sochi. No-
vember 29 is the date of the next local derby of the season.
CSKA hosts, Dynamo hopes to improve on September’s 1-4
reverse on home ice.
BANDY-ING TOGETHER
Russia’s love of ice hockey is well known, but fewer people
have seen a game of so-called ‘Russian Hockey’, or bandy.
This sport, apparently first played on frozen rivers by monks
in the Golden Ring, is perhaps best described as field
hockey on ice. The playing surface is similar to a football
field, and teams are 11-a-side, rather than six in ice hockey.
Players chase a ball rather than a puck and it’s supposedly
a non-contact sport.
Two teams play in or near Moscow: Dynamo Moscow,
historically the country’s strongest team, plays indoors at
an impressive modern arena a short bus-ride Krylatskoye
metro station. After losing out to Yenisei Krasnoyarsk in last
season’s grand final the Blue-and-Whites will look to go
one better this time. However, a more traditional bandy ex-
perience can be had in Krasnogorsk (suburban trains from
Rizhsky Vokzal) where local heroes Zorki still play in an out-
door arena. The season will start on November 8, fixture in-
formation for both clubs can be found at www.rusbandy.
ru. Evening games start at 7 pm, weekends at 1 pm.
20.10 MONDAY - 14.12 SUNDAY
VIEWS OF OLD MOSCOW
Few major European cities
underwent a transition as
rapid and overwhelming
as the one that trans-
formed Moscow in the
early 20th century. For-
tunately, the archives of
Yury Eremin, one of the
leading photographers of
the early 1900s, include
extensive records of old
Moscow, a favorite theme
of the artist. From 1919 onwards he worked with the So-
ciety for the Protection of Ancient Monuments, chroni-
cling old buildings in Moscow, Leningrad and beyond.
Those works form the basis of the exhibition at Moscow’s
Multimedia Art Museum from Oct. 20 to Dec. 14.QB-4,
MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Os-
tozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637
11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl.
12.11 WEDNESDAY - 01.01 SUNDAY
FROM ONE PALACE TO ANOTHER
For many visitors to Moscow the name Sheremetyev is as-
sociated more with the city’s airport, but the name comes
from one of Russia’s wealthiest aristocratic families. Their
country estate at Ostankino, now swallowed by the sub-
urbs, was one of the most elegant in Tsarist Russia, and
their artistic collection was unsurpassed. Now some of
that art has found a temporary home in Tsaritsyno while
Ostankino is restored, including a collection of sculptures
assembled by Count Nikolai Sheremetyev in the late 18th
century. It’s a fine exploration of classical themes, reflect-
ing his wish to turn Ostankino into a ‘pantheon of art’ and
appears as part of the celebrations of Tsaritsyno’s 30th an-
niversary.QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel.
(+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park
open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Ad-
mission park free. Museums 30 - 300Rbl.
18.11 TUESDAY - 01.02 SUNDAY
SNAPSHOTS OF THE PAST
Julia Cameron was a late
starter and an unlikely hero-
ine of 19th-century pho-
tography. A chance gift for
her 48th birthday triggered
her interest in photos, and
she quickly developed a
distinctive approach to
capturing the world on film.
Much of her work sought
to emulate the large-scale
allegorical paintings so popular at that time, while her un-
conventional technique - often deliberately blurring the
focus of her works - attracted both praise and criticism at
a time when photographers typically prized pin-sharp real-
ism above any other artistic consideration. This exhibition,
celebrating her bicentenary, comes from London’s V&A
museum, which staged the only display of Cameron’s work
in her lifetime back in 1865.QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art
Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open
12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl.
THROUGH 08.03 SUNDAY
CLASSICAL FRENCH ART AT ARKHANGELSKOE
Imperial Russia’s love affair with all things French is well-
known: time was when fashion dictated even princely
underwear should be sent to France to be laundered.
But the legacy of that entente cordiale offers more than
mere Parisian pampering, as a blockbuster new art show
at Arkhangelskoe is out to prove. The aristocratic estate to
the north-west of the capital was home to the Yusupov
family, and Prince Nikolay was one of the most enthusias-
tic collectors of French art. His legacy includes a collection
of more than 100 works from the late 18th and early 19th
centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of Paris saw him
become the first man to introduce the works of Horace
Vernet and Marguerite Gerard to Russian audiences. Those
works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoe show,
which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries.
QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5km Ilinskoe
Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.
arhangelskoe.su. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the
month. Park always open. Admission park 150Rbl, exhi-
bition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. AUW
18 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 19 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Features
Culture & Events
THE ART OF MOSCOW
THROUGH 26.10 SUNDAY
Following on from September’s City Day celebrations,
the Gogol Museum hosts ‘Moscow Saga’, a display of
work by 12 different artists inspired by Russia’s capital.
The exhibition presents a diverse view of the many
facets of Moscow life, ranging from Vladimir Bryanin’s
nostalgic reflections on the post-war years to Konstan-
tin Batynkov’s landscape fantasies. Other artists take a
deliberately naive view of the city, but all are united
by the enduring love and fascination with the ever-
changing canvas of Europe’s biggest city.
STANISLAVSKY’S PREMIERE
Dating back to 1918-1919 the Stanislavsky and Nemi-
rovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is one of
the biggest and most successful theatres of Russia. The
opera and ballet performances are well known to the
Moscow audience and attract more and more interna-
tional visitors.
The theatre takes part in many international projects
and gets yearly nominated for the national theatre
premium Golden Mask. In 2013 it was nominated in
London for the Oscar amongst the opera’s; the first
international opera award for best opera theatre. The
Stanislavsky theatre itself is beautifully decorated, with
wide open spaces and a lovely museum showing the
history of the theatre, costumes used for performances
and lovely stage models.

The Stanislavsky Theatre is no stranger to collaborating
with other leading musical theatres from Europe and
further afar. This year, together with John Neumeier’s
Hamburg Ballet, the Stanislavsky is putting on a co-
production of Pushkin’s classic of Russian literature Eu-
gene Onegin. In choreographic episodes, combining
dream, memory, premonition and reality John the bal-
let “Tatiana” brings to life the story of Tatiana, a young
girl brought up in the Russian countryside and her first
great love. She communicates her passion spontane-
ously in a letter to Onegin – an impressive yet eccen-
tric young man from the city, who clearly rejects her
unconditional love. Years later, in mirror symmetry, Ta-
tiana, already married, rejects Onegin’s sudden ardent
love. Having been pronounced an enormous success
in Hamburg in June of this year, this co-production of
“Tatiana” is coming to the Stanislavsky on November
7th to bring a balance of heartfelt emotions with ra-
tionality that the heroine of this verse novel so clearly
perpetuates.
STANISLAVSKY AND NEMIROVICH-
DANCHENKO MOSCOW MUSIC THEATRE
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru.
MOSCOW THEATER LIFE
To say that Moscow has a rich and multivarious theater life
would be a huge understatement. Theater in Russia dates
all the way back to pagan shows with dramatic recitations
of fables, tales and proverbs, and singing and dances, per-
formed by skomorokhi, or traveling minstrels.
Moscow’s first theater opened its doors in 1672 at the court of
Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. Though lagging behind the opening
of London’s first public playhouse by almost 100 years, Mos-
cow made up the difference quickly, becoming one of the
centers of theatrical life by the 19th century. This is when the
Maly (Small) Theatre was founded (1824) and the Bolshoi
(Big) Theatre replaced the Peter’s Theatre in 1825.
The turn of the 20th century marked an outburst of the-
atrical activities and a search for new styles. What marked
the biggest change in Moscow theater was the foundation
of the Moscow Art Theatre of Konstantin Stanislavsky
and Vladimir Nemirovich-Danchenko in 1898. In fact,
Russian drama theater as we know it today is in many ways
rooted in the school of those genius stage directors.
Today, the Russian capital has over 150 theaters of all
sizes and styles! Not only classical but also non-repertory
theaters present a wealthy palette of classical and avant-
garde plays, unique acting and unexpected stage de-
signs. The so-called “open showcases” combining the best
traditions of repertory theater with experimental settings
by youthful creative teams have become a new direction
to take note of.
So which ones should be
on everyone’s to-do list
whether just visiting Mos-
cow or settling down in the
capital for good? If you’re
new to Russia and your
knowledge of the Russian
language is rusty to say
the least - good news! A
bit over a year ago Royal
Shakespeare Company
alum Jonathan Bex realized
he had little hope of acting
in any of the city’s many
theaters. Instead of despairing, however, he came up with a
creative solution: he started the first ever theater company
that would offer exclusively English-language productions
to Moscow’s audiences. Moscow English Theater brings
professional actors from Britain to stage contemporary
British and American drama in Moscow. The new season
productions include “The Only Way is Downtown”, a parody
on the globally popular TV series “Downton Abbey”, and
“Bond”, a parody on the world renowned British spy per-
formed by international touring star Gavin Robertson.
GOGOL HOUSE
Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A,
in the very center of
Moscow near the Arbat
Square, with its stone ar-
cades and balconies may
seem like your average
18th century merchant
mansion but there is a lot
more to it than meets the
eye. This house has a very
rich history dating back
to the early 17th century
and had belonged to fam-
ilies of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government
officials, army generals and even the members of the
Tolstoy family.
However, the most famous resident to have ever inhabited
this manor was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol,
one of the most preeminent figures of the natural school of
Russian literary realism and author of such classics as “The
Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The Government Inspector”
and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Welcome to the Gogol House
Memorial Museum Science Library!
Although he had only spent the last four years of his life
here, this is the place where the writer worked on the
second volume of Dead Souls. Here, he burnt the manu-
scripts of the poem. And in this very house, on February 21,
1852 the writer died. The Gogol House is the only place in
Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive by
combining a research library of over 250 000 volumes, a re-
search centre, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum.
The museum itself is located on the first floor, which Gogol
occupied, and is broken up into several rooms. Gogol’s cab-
inet was a special room where he could enjoy some peace
and quiet while he put his words down on paper.
The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where
the author entertained his guests. The “Government In-
spector” room tells visitors about Russian theater of the
1830s and 1840s, as well as Gogol’s Theater and plays based
on his works. The Room of Remembrance is where Gogol
stayed when he began feeling ill in 1852 because it was
warmer than the other rooms.
Although special attention is given to the works of N.V.
Gogol and other material regarding his life, visitors also
have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psy-
chology, art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The
library also has a hall devoted specifically to music, where
anyone from professionals to novices can examine litera-
ture relating to music and even use the electric piano with
special headphones to better hear how they sound.
The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging
from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to
Gogol’s and other prominent Russian authors’ works.
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92
56, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 -
21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last day of
the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl.
Dva bileta pozhalusta –
two tickets, please
20 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 21 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Features Features
A true genius of theater art, Konstantin Stanislavsky, made
an innovative contribution to modern European and
American realistic acting which has remained at the core
of mainstream western performance training for much of
the last century. For this reason, the world famous Stan-
islavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music
Theatre is most certainly worth a visit. Today the com-
pany’s repertoire includes operas (Betrothal in a Monastery,
Bizet’s Carmen, Onegin, La Bohème, La forza del destino,
La traviata, Madama Butterfly, Pique Dame, The Tale of Tsar
Saltan and Tosca among many others), ballet (traditional
Russian repertoire and experimental works such as John
Neumeier’s water ballet The Little Mermaid) and of course
some great premiers (Aida, Manon, Don Giovanni, Il Matri-
monio segreto and Tatiana). Read more on page 19.
We all know how beautiful and enchanting classical opera is.
Verdi’s most performed “La Traviata”contains all the elements
we’re used to getting to feed our operatic addiction: a beauti-
ful, consumptive, fallen-woman heroine, grand Parisian party
scenes, the travails of love, a troubled father and a deathbed
scene. Bizet’s “Carmen”, a long but action-filled tale with
infectious music about the Gypsy dancer at the cigarette
factory who breaks hearts and meets her doom outside the
bullring is the perfect formula for an opera. But if you know
the classics inside and out and are looking for a new take on
your favorite art form, then the Moscow-based Helikon-Op-
era company is worth a visit or two. Specializing in uncon-
ventional productions, the company was founded by Dmitry
Bertman and gave its first performance, Stravinsky’s Mavra,
on April 10, 1990 and nowadays it gives 200 performances a
year, primarily in Moscow but also abroad.
So in this review we’ve managed to cover only 11 of the
150+ theaters currently bringing smiles, tears, joy and
laughter to Muscovites and guests of the capital. Once you
cover this list of “essentials”, you will surely find out about
all the smaller and more niche outlets and companies that
have duly brought Moscow the title of one of the world’s
theater capitals. Happy viewings!
Next, of course, is the iconic Bolshoi Theater which is
literally translated as the “Big Theater”. Not only does it
stage truly breathtaking ballet and opera performances,
but the building, designed by architect Joseph Bové, is
an impressive sight in itself which attracts tourists and lo-
cals alike to marvel at its architectural splendor. Although
the Bolshoi was officially opened on 20 October 1856, on
Tsar Alexander II’s coronation day, it traces its history back
to 28 March (17 according to the old style) 1776 when
Catherine II granted the prosecutor, Prince Pyotr Urusov,
the “privilege” of “maintaining” theatre performances of
all kinds, including masquerades, balls and other forms
of entertainment. By now, the Bolshoi Ballet and Bolshoi
Opera are amongst the oldest and most renowned bal-
let and opera companies in the world as well as being
by far the world’s biggest ballet company, having more
than 200 dancers. The theater underwent reconstruction
which lasted from l July 2005 to 28 October 2011, as a
result of which, many lost features of the historic building
were reinstated and, at the same time, it has joined the
ranks of most technically equipped theater buildings in
the world.
The Bolshoi’s little relative is the Maly Theater, or the very
aptly named “Small Theater”. Established in 1806 right
next door to the Bolshoi, the Maly traces its history to the
Moscow University drama company, established in 1756.
Already in the 19th century, the Maly was universally rec-
ognized in Russia as the leading dramatic theatre of the
century. In modern days it’s a traditional drama theatre that
produces classical heritage plays.
The first “international” theater in Moscow was the theater
“At Nikitsky” thanks to performances of world-famous ac-
tors such as Sarah Bernardt, Eleonare Duse and Ernst von
Possart. Today this is yet another one of the must-visit
theaters now known as the Mayakovsky Theater. The
theater remains one of the capital’s favorite ones and its ac-
tors are among the most famous in all of Russia. The Maya-
kovsky theatre stages classical pieces from literary masters
such as Gogol, Dostoevsky and Chekhov.
Making the Art Nouveau building on Taganka Square its
home, the Taganka Theater is most famous for the con-
troversies in its repertoire and leadership as well the incred-
ible talents that performed there at the beginning. Found-
ed in 1964 by Yuri Lyubimov, the theatre rose to popularity
in Moscow with Vladimir Vysotsky and Alla Demidova as
the leading actors. However its repertoire was so daring
and controversial that it got into deep trouble with Soviet
authorities, who banned many of Lyubimov’s productions.
By 1984 the director was stripped of his Soviet citizenship
and exiled to the West. Nowadays it’s a favorite among Rus-
sian intelligentsia for its attempts to create principally new
non-standard performances.
For contact information on theatres
check page 10
Established in the post-Stalin
years which sought to de-
stroy the cult of personality,
the Sovremennik Theater
(translating into “Contem-
porary Theater”) was the
first theater founded by a
free creative group of like-
minded talents who were
able to prove themselves as
a wholesome and worthy
artistic collective. Among the
founders, all of whom graduated from Moscow Art Theatre
School-Studio, were such respected actors as Oleg Yefremov,
Galina Volchek, Igor Kvasha, Liliya Tolmachyova, Yevgeniy Yevs-
tigneyev and Oleg Tabakov. Like any theater it’s seen ups and
downs throughout its relatively long history but no matter
what, its fans always showed support and enthusiasm for what
it does and this is why today it’s as strong as ever.
Paris has a Sun Theater,
Prague has a Night Theater,
Japan has a Fog Theater and
Moscow has a Moon Theat-
er (Theatre Luny). From its
romantic beginnings in a
small basement in 1992, the
Luny Theater now occupies a
gorgeous mansion in central
Moscow and regularly tours
not only Russia, but also
countries like the USA, Israel,
Germany, Holland, Bulgaria,
Mexico and others. The brilliant Sergey Prokhanov founded
the theater and remains its art director until this very day. Most
plays are also written by him and stand out for their poetry,
unique directing style and refined musical accompaniment.
Prolific modern Russian actors like Chulpan Khamatova, Irina
Metlitskaya, Anatoliy Romashin and many others have at least
once appeared on the Luny’s stage.
Although quite young by
theater standards in Mos-
cow, Praktika has come
to be known as a charming
little place that feels more
like a gathering of close
friends (thanks to its simple
interior and small capacity)
rather than a full theater ex-
perience. The plays staged
there are often daring and
controversial so it appeals
more to the younger crowd
of theater-goers on an intellectual, emotional and spiritual
search. A new generation of playwrights and and directors
has been using this space since 2005 to explore topics like
personality and power, ethnos and urbanism, war and reli-
gion, ethics and immoralism.
22 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 23 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack
vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend
to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to
book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph
into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so
make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet.
Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making
their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent
is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
€ - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl
€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
RUSSIAN AND UKRAINIAN
CAFE CHEKHOV
Sitting next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here has
been inspired by the great playwright’s era. The dining
room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nou-
veau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses
wear Edwardian costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new
Russian cuisine’, although in our book there’s nothing Rus-
sian about pasta and ruccola. Their version of borsch with
apples in it is however a welcome innovation. Service can
be frustratingly slow at times so don’t be shy with the staff.
QKamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629
06 16, www.cafe-chekhov.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
PAGSW
CAFE PUSHKIN
This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and
popular with local business men and passing tourists.
Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now
frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only up-
per class restaurant where you could eat European stan-
dard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the
roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine
recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophis-
ticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library
Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2,
Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33,
www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The frst foor open 24hrs, the
second foor 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PAVEGW
DACHA NA POKROVKE
The Dacha on Pokrovka is the place if you are looking for
simple Russian fare in original and quirky surroundings.
Spread over the upper floor of a crumbling medieval
mansion this café/restaurant with its collection of Soviet
and pre-Soviet armoires, radios, telephones and crockery
of the type you’d usually find at a flea market, certainly
has a special kind of charm. The menu focuses on simple
Russian classics while in the summer months a barbeque
grill kicks off in the leafy garden out front with succulent
shashlik. Live music most evenings.QЕ-3, Pokrovsky bul.
16-18 bldg. 4 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.
ru. Open 12:00 - 04:30. €€. PAESW
ODESSA MAMA
Odessa Mama offers a taste of every Russian’s idealized
childhood cuisine. Drawing inspiration from the slightly
raffish Ukrainian port that launched a thousand sum-
mer holiday memories, it presents a range of childhood
favorites in an atmosphere that has had crowds flocking
to the large dining hall near Chistiye Prudy. Meanwhile, a
nod to Odessa’s Jewish heritage brings a couple of items
that you won’t find in your staff canteen - the hummus,
currently Moscow’s most fashionable dish, is worth a
look. If you grew up in the USSR, this is like going back
to your carefree childhood; if you didn’t it’s maybe a bit
difficult to see what the fuss is about. The restaurant is
run by the team behind the Khachupuri Georgian chain,
which has a branch in the same building.QD-2, Krivoko-
lenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 964
647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€.
PTAVGSW
SHCHISLIVA
Only a short walk away from the Kremlin, although not
swamped with tourists, this light friendly café deserves a
lot of credit for serving Russian food with a modern and
healthy twist. The light, minimal decoration with tradi-
tional samovars gives the place an airy feel, and a whole
page of menu is devoted to different tea infusions offering
different remedies.QС-4, Ul. Volkhonka 9, MKropotkin-
skaya, tel. (+7) 499 393 39 61, www.volhonka9.ru/. Open
08:00 - 24:00. €. PTAGSW
ASIAN AND INDIAN
DARBARS
Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is
not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the
trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of
the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional
southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following of
faithful Indian expats. It is tastefully decorated in a mini-
mal style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa
they also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door.
QHotel Sputnik, Leninsky pr. 38, 16th foor, MLenin-
sky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www.darbar.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVSW
KHAJURAHO INDIAN RESTAURANT
Take deep-fried starters like pakora, samosa, and onion
bhaji, add caramel-coloured sweet masala chai, Bolly-
wood film music and Kama Sutra sculptures; and what do
you get? A modest Indian restaurant named Khajuraho
with a uniquely Indian romantic ambience. Fresh, fragrant,
richly spiced Indian food on an above-average budget. Of-
fering a wide selection of vegetarian options, I can hear
the collective vegetarian sigh of relief, as well as traditional
meat dishes and British-Indian classics. Impressive bread
selection including roti, naan, parata and kulcha, atten-
tive service, and well-sized portions apart from the rice.
A strong contender within Moscow’s curry-eating com-
munity for best Indian restaurant.QShmitovsky proezd
14, MUlitsa 1905 Goda, tel. (+7) 499 256 81 36, www.
khajuraho.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PAVS
KITAISKY KVARTAL
The menu at ‘Chinese Quarter’ features plenty of dim sum,
noodle dishes and some less well-known Chinese op-
tions, and vegetarians will find there’s a good selection.
Business lunches cater to the very hungry - though they
cost 350Rbl, that’ll get you unlimited amounts of the tasty
oriental salad bar and from selected hot dishes as well.
We recommend the refreshing homemade jasmine iced
tea, which you may want several glasses of if you pick an
especially well salted dish. The bamboo décor and unin-
trusive music mean this is a relaxing sort of place, even at
their restaurant on the busy Taganskaya Pl. Also at Pr. Mira
1 (metro Sukharevskaya).QE-4, Vorontsovskaya ul. 2/10,
bldg. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911 32 02, www.
chinachain.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PAVSW
ZENQ
Well hidden in the bottom left end of the upscale Nikolskaya
shopping centre, ZenQ is a perfectly accomplished little Japa-
nese joint. As well as the usual popular rolls and sashimi, they
have a wide selection of huge soups, some of which are very
spicy. There’s also an abundance of good traditional meat and
rice options to choose from. The business lunch here is great
value for the area and Japanese embassy staff can often be
spotted tucking in to meals.QC-2, Tretyakov Plaza shopping
galleries (1st foor), Nikolskaya ul. 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7)
495 641 32 02. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAVSW
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
V Home delivery W Wifi
RUSSIAN CUISINE
Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-
fare with a dash of French inspired creamy sauces and
other scrumptious flavours. If you are wondering what
that green grass stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop) and it usually
finds its way into everything.
BLINY AND SNACKS
Snacks (zakuski) are very popular and include all
manner of pickled things as well as small open sand-
wiches (buterbrod). Pancakes (bliny) are very popu-
lar and may come with savoury fillings such as ham
(vetchina), caviar (ikra), cheese (syr), mushrooms (gri-
by) or sour cream (smetana) or with sweet filling such
as honey (myod) or condensed milk (sgushchonka).
SOUPS AND SALADS
Russians are big on soup and there are literally hun-
dreds of different kinds. The quintessential Russian
soup is of course the beetroot and beef based borsch.
Ukha a fish soup often made with salmon or trout is
another favourite as is the heavy meaty ‘hunters’ soup
Solyanka.
Russian salads invariably have mayonnaise in them
and are a permanent feature on any menu. The classic
Russian salad is Olivye - boiled potatoes, carrots, peas
and eggs, pickled Cucumbers with either cheap spam
ham or something luxurious like lobster, sturgeon or
crayfish. Selyodka pod shuboy which translates as
‘herring under a fur coat’ is another popular salad con-
sisting of layers of pickled herring, boiled potatoes and
beetroot.
MAIN DISHES
Pelmeni - boiled dumplings stuffed with meat and
served with sour cream. Varenki are the same but
stuffed with vegetables or sweet fillings. Uzbek ver-
sions (manty) are slightly bigger and often steamed,
while the Georgian versions (khinkali) are huge and
eaten with the hands.
Beef stroganoff - a Russian classic, famous across the
world. Kotlety - little meat patties usually made with
minced beef (govyadina) or pork (svinina). Frikadelki
are meatballs and similar in taste but made with rice
and meat and usually served with a sauce.
24 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 25 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
there are already multiple screens for sports viewing. Be
sure to check the restaurant’s Facebook page for updates.
QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 71/5, bldg. 2, MDobrynins-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 67 80, www.coin-hall.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGW
FOOD EMBASSY
Everything about Food Embassy screams hip. From their
trendy music indoors to the Miami vibe outdoors, you’ll only
find the coolest cats here. As appearances go their décor is
faultless, and this is mirrored by their presentation of food,
which too was perfect. Though there’s a clear emphasis on
quality over quantity, you won’t hear any complaints from
us about that!QD-1, Prospekt Mira 26, bldg. 8, MPros-
pekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 256 04 03, www.foodembassy.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGW
FUNKY LAB
Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange
combo, but not at Funky Lab. What’s really in a name? This
restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of attention
being placed on how it is presented to you. Why read from
a menu when there is a tablet available with pictures of all
dishes? Don’t be surprised when you pick out a dish here just
because of the way it looks. But the best thing about Funky is
that the food is just plain good.QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka
7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.
funkylab-bar.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat
14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PAEGSW
BEER RESTAURANTS
KOSLOVICA
Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub
from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden
furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech
food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied
by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky
Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 de-
grees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour.
QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru/moscow. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAVSW
PILSNER PAVELETSKAYA
Already seeing almost three million people through its
doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold a
staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef, Rob-
ert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech cuisine
straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate
the menu, although a fine choice of other specialties and
large salads are on offer as well.QD-5, Ozerkovskaya nab.
56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.pilsner.
ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW
CAFES AND BAKERIES
COFFEE PYU
One half beauty salon, one half café - for manicures turn
left and for coffee turn right. In addition to the aromatic
coffee brews there’s also a wide range of teas as well as
delicious cakes and homemade main meals to enjoy. In a
confident move ‘I drink coffee’ has an open kitchen, which
is so low and open you could almost pull up a stool and
sit at the counter and start pestering the chef - in fact
the place is so laidback, you almost get the feeling they
wouldn’t even mind if you did. As you can see the chefs
are working on simple light lunch meals such as salads,
homemade pastas and pizzas, which can be ordered in
large portions for sharing as well as individual servings.
Occasional live acoustic concerts add to the soothing
and tranquil refuge.QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 9 bldg.1,
MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 29 83, www.cofee-
piu.com. Cafe 08:00 - 23:00. Sat. and Sun. 10:00 - 23:00.
Beauty Salon 10:00 - 22:00. €. PAGW
JEFFREY’S COFFEE
In Jeffrey’s you pay for the time you are at this American
coffee bar. Their professional barista prepares great drinks
and during the day you can sit and relax and perhaps
get a little work done. In the evening this bar becomes
jazzy, with live music and a homey atmosphere. You can
buy a guest card for 350 rubles and spend the whole
day enjoying coffee, tea, cold drinks, sweets and snacks.
What generosity in Moscow these days!QD-2, Ul. Ma-
roseyka 15, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 495 623 87 77, www.
jefreyscofee.ru. Open 08:00 - 23.00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
23:00. €. PAGW
KHLEB AND CO AT MALAYA BRONNAYA
This chic Parisian patisserie makes for an effortlessly styl-
ish environment to enjoy a quick coffee, and the heaps of
carefully baked goods seek to underline the cultural im-
portance of bread in Russia as in France. All sorts of breads
and pastries, both French and Russian style, will fill a cor-
ner as you pop in to or from work.QB-2, Malaya Bron-
naya 21/13, bldg. 2, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 86
94, www.eatout.ru/cafe/hleb.html. Open 08:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:00 - 22:00. €€. PAGW
MADAME BOULANGER
This quaint little French-style bakery and cake shop sells
all manner of fresh baked breads and savoury snacks such
as quiches, sandwiches, salads and pies. On the sweet
side there’s plenty to tickle your fancy with the classic
French éclairs, handmade chocolates, macaroons and of
course obvious favourites croissants. If you choose to eat
in you’ll have the extra delight of dining from gorgeous
mismatched antique fine china crockery and admire the
charming interior, or opt to sit out on the summer terrace
with views of the boulevard, and musicians are welcome
to serenade the other guests on their piano. Drinks are also
available to go; cakes and other tasty treats can be made
to order and delivered to your door.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12,
MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01, www.madame-
boulanger.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. PASW
CAUCASIAN
KHACHAPURI
An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior
that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in fa-
vour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khacha-
puri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and
in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese
bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big
thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied
by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely
with homemade fruit drinks.The tables are all cramped to-
gether giving the place a noisy diner feeling, complimented
by a particularly eclectic clientele. Also at Krivokolenny per.
10, bldg. 5 (metro Chistye Prudy) and Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro
Kievskaya).QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00
- 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €. PAVEGSW
NOEV KOVCHEG
The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and even
a pond of tropical fish just inside the entrance define Noev
Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow’s finest. Appropriately
named, the venue was in fact opened on the 17th of the 7th
month – the day when Noah’s ark ran aground on Mount
Ararat in the bible story, and the hulking building looming
on the hill immediately puts you in mind of an ark, feeling
mysteriously Tardis like with its many interlinking chambers
and floors. The food explores all of Armenian cuisine, with
many classic marinated shish kebab dishes from fresh meat
delivered daily, and the classy bar will provide you with a
plethora of fine wines.QD-3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKi-
tai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAVGSW
SAKHLI
Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old
Georgian family recipes, a very warm and inviting country
home style interior. Of particular note are the excellent lo-
bio kakhetinsky (kidney beans with onions and spices), the
irresistible cheese khinkali (giant cheese filled dumplings)
and the grilled meats. A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick
Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet
peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely
displayed to help you make up your mind about how to fin-
ish up an excellent meal.QС-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, bldg.1,
MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sahli.
ru/en. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW
SULIKO ON PATRIARSHIE
Suliko is a place to eat and eat very well. Famous in Moscow
for its khinkali, the giant meat-filled dumplings here do not
disappoint. With the perfect blend of herbs and spices, they
are rightly said to be some of the best outside of Georgia.
Service is low key but spotless and a word of warning; or-
der carefully, in traditional style, the portions here are really
big.QB-2, Ermolaevsky per. 7, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 650 41 89, www.suliko.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. PAGSW
EUROPEAN
BRIX
If it is fine wine you seek, look no further. There are few bet-
ter bars where you can sip a good wine in good company
than at Brix 2. Whilst the bar’s chic character may match
its classy customers - neither reflect its modest prices.
With wines so well-selected and well-priced, what’s the
catch? We still haven’t found one!QB-2, Maly Kozykhin-
sky pereulok 10/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 95 94,
www.brix-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAW
COIN
Despite its name, this former printhouse offers a very rea-
sonably priced varied menu of fantastic European food
and boasts a drinks menu for any occasion. Owner Alexan-
der Shikin has plans to introduce concerts and exhibitions
to this vast, stylishly renovated industrial space where
26 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 27 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident
micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a res-
taurant to miss out on. In the summer their large rooftop
terrace is a great addition, with 2 bars, a grill, barbecue
parties, brunches and lots of parties.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmi-
trovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25
02, www.funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri and Sat until last guest. €€. PTAEGW
IZIA GRILL
What started as a hipster craze seems to be going main-
stream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi and Izia
Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the
trend. It’s a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site
of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new décor
is hardly revolutionary the change in cuisine is striking.
Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get
a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions,
but usually have snack-sized price tags attached. It’s sit-
down street food rather than fine dining, but it works
well as a neighborhood café.QD-2, Bol. Lublyanka ul.
24, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 623 08 48, www.izia-
grill.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €.
PAEGSW
KON-TIKI
The younger sister of the Tiki Bar (the first Hawaiian bar in
Moscow), although Kon-Tiki is more of a restaurant than a
bar, it is still definitely one of the more exotic places in Mos-
cow. So if you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit of fun,
look no further than Kon-Tiki and it’s island grill. Guests are
surrounded by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an
impressive aquarium that runs the length of the wall - this is
truly Hawaii in Moscow. During the weekend the restaurant
is always buzzing with the music and energy from Caribbe-
an and Latino themed parties. The authentic Hawaiian style
cocktails are moderately priced, so forget your worries and
enjoy the rhythm of a salsa or rumba, whilst sipping on the
Aztec Surfboard or Ginger Mango Punch, delicious!QC-2,
Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7, bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel.
(+7) 495 767 87 20, www.kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs. €€.
PTAEGSW
HEDIARD
Welcome to a small corner of Paris in Moscow. Hediard
is the equivalent of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate factory for
French cuisine. The shop downstairs is packed with all
kinds of foodie delights from beautifully decorated cakes
and handmade chocolates, to Camemberts and bries, to
all kinds of pates and chutnies. The cafe upstairs is de-
lightfully sophisticated, if not a little small. However what
it lacks in seating space, it certainly makes up for with a
menu over 44 pages long!QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 23,
bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 32 88, www.
hediard.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. €€. PAGSW
LUCIEN
The story starts as soon as you enter the door and are
greeted by elegantly dressed waiters who lead you into a
gorgeous Victorian style parlour scattered with palm trees
and pristine white table-clothed tables. Opening the menu
you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired
cuisine. Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with
smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail,
duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stro-
ganoff… the mouthwatering list goes on. All the mains
are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the
dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or Russian pancakes
stuffed with porcini mushrooms.QUl. Gilyarovskogo
65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.
lucienrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGW
SCANDINAVIA
An icon amongst Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has
been providing smiley service for almost twenty years
now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish
goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs.
Not everything is from the north, as their bar menu also
has a hefty and popular burger. The central location and
calm international atmosphere means there are more than
a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially
on Fridays service can get slow.QB-2, Maly Palashevsky
per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 -
24:00. €€. PTAGSW
YORNIK
Meaning something like joker in Russian, the general de-
sign and atmosphere goes against the name and is won-
derfully calming, rather than wise-cracking and outland-
ish. Art deco design features on the tables and walls give
Yornik an eye-catching and elegant 1930s New York hotel
bar look and service remains discreet but professional
making it a great place for private business discussions
or intimate meetings. The menu takes a new approach to
Russian staple ingredients resulting in new creations such
as risotto made from buckwheat as well as some classics
such as excellent handmade pelmeni, borsch and other in-
ternational winners.QA-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 69, MBe-
lorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 92 50, www.ernik.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGSW
INTERNATIONAL
ART CLUMBA
Right at the hub of this art and design complex, Art
Clumba is a restaurant-café-concert space which sets
everything at the right level. The soundtrack is their own
carefully selected mix, the menu covers a wide range of
cuisines and manages to serve them up with a simple
twist that lets the well-sourced ingredients shine. The
whole layout itself is a gently subdued blonde-beige
combo highlighting the building’s unique architectural
features. Patrons are a laidback mix of in-the-know graph-
ic designers, office workers and design school students.
QArtPlay na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7,
bldg. 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.art-
clumba.ru/. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
€€. PTAEGSW
DELICATESSEN
In Moscow it’s often the impossible to find places that turn
out to be the best and Delicatessen definitely falls into
this category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of
building 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you
will find a colourful entrance way announcing ‘thank you
for finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its
gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an ar-
ray of the chef’s favourite things. Ceviche, chocolate pud-
dings, homemade pasta and more - the whole menu is a
success. Some say the pizzas are the best in town, others
say it’s the nicoise salad. For us feeling you’ve been let in
on a great little secret is the real winning element. Res-
ervations recommended.QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.
20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52,
www.newdeli.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
€€. PAEGW
DETI RAIKA
It’s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to
the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior
with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, ac-
tors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout.
Deti Raiki or Children of Paradise is a French film directed
in 1945 and the owner’s favourite film. The varied menu
offers anything from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads
as well as some tasty fish dishes. With live music in the
weekends, ranging from jazz to lounge and even French
chansons this place comes recommended.QB-3, Nikitsky
bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.
detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
€€. PTAEW
FUNNY CABANY
Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congre-
gate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet
modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive
barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from
homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender
steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non
meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous
INTERVIEW WITH THE CHEF
Please tell us something
about yourself.
My name is Dragan Mi-
losavlevich. I was born
on March 29th, 1970. I’ve
been a chef since 1989
and have been work-
ing for the Porto Maltese
chain of restaurants since
2004. My specialty, of
course, is fish and seafood.
What makes Moscow a special place for you?
As a chef I really appreciate all the gastronomical op-
portunities in this city. I enjoy dining in the restaurants
of my friends, like “Porto Pomodoro” for example. Vis-
iting culinary expos and forums is another activity I
enjoy doing in this city. Here I’m also becoming better
acquainted with art in places like the Pushkin Museum
and going for long walks in Park Gorkogo or Poklon-
naya Hill.
Why should people visit Porto Maltese?
We just recently opened up a new restaurant in Vegas
Crocus City shopping center and we’ve stayed true to
our style: maritime decorations, symbols of Malta and
other recognizable features of our chain. If I may say
so myself, this particular restaurant may even be a bit
cozier than the others thanks to the comfy couches. It’s
also possible to hold banquets for up to 80 people or
slightly more intimate gatherings of up to 24 people.
In terms of food Porto Maltese needs no introduction.
Time and time again we’ve won prestigious awards like
“Best seafood restaurant” and have gathered a great
many positive reviews from guests, many of whom
have become regulars. So what’s our secret? First of all,
we use only the freshest seafood and fish – they are
on the ice display right in the main hall so guests can
choose which product they want and discuss with the
chef how they’d like it prepared. And here we have sev-
en different ways to choose from! Grill, sauté, braising in
cream sauce, baking in parchment paper and salt, fry-
ing with potatoes and vegetables and also in the form
of white or red buzzara – and these are only a few of
the variations!
Fish lovers will also be delighted with our wide range of
delicious seafood pastas and risottos. Although we’re
a seafood restaurant, our meat dishes and delicacies
from Spain and Italy are also exceptional. All of our
sauces are exclusively our very own homemade blend
and can really add an extra something to any dish. As
for our desserts, well, lets just say we really know how
to spoil our guests’ taste buds!
28 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 29 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
it made up and it arrives at your table within minutes.
With fussy service and overstyled interiors not part of
the game here, the prices are low, but as the concept
is from down under, you can be sure the meat is a
healthy slab of Australian goodness. The business lunch
is particularly good value for money.QD-2, Bol. Cher-
kassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495
220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€.
PAEGSW
POLO CLUB
The refined and sophisticated Polo Club’s defining dish is
its outrageously delicious slow roasted prime beef fillet. It
needs to be ordered a day in advance, as to reach its most
incredible tenderness it is achingly slowly roasted for 12
hours. If you can’t think that far ahead the Angus, Prime
and Kobe steaks on offer are also outstanding. Make sure
you save some appetite for the starters too. The menu has
been completely revamped, taking on Asian influences
which manifest themselves in dishes such as an authen-
tic (and very spicy!) tom yam soup and a mouthwatering
Asian salmon teriyaki.QC-2, Marriott Royal Aurora, ul.
Petrovka 11, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 24,
www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.com. Open 18:00 -
24:00. €€€. PAGSW
MECHTA
Mechta’s secret lies not so much in a creative menu as the
ability to make relatively simple dishes well. Forget about
mousses and reductions - how do you make a piece of
toast taste so good? A place serving an all day breakfast
with plush armchairs can’t help but be chilled out. Yet it
also feels like a proper grown-up dining experience and
bar, with a selection of appetising cocktails of cheering
proportions. Then there’s the attentive staff and pleasant
decor: this place pretty much ticks all the boxes.QE-5,
Sadovnicheskaya ul. 84, bldg. 3/7, MPaveletskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 633 58 88, www.mechta-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs.
€€. PTAGSW
NESKUCHNY SAD
This restaurant is in a truly stunning location-set atop a
renovated barge at Frunzenskaya Naberezhnaya opposite
Gorky Park, the rooftop veranda has views of the parks on
the other side of the river and down to the Kremlin. The
cool river breeze and cane armchairs add to the air of be-
ing on a luxury cruise. Neskuchny Sad serves classic dishes
as well as Italian cuisine, with large pizzas. The cocktail
menu is artisan and extensive- we tried the Lychee Mar-
tini and the Mango and Rosemary Cointreau Fizz. If you do
indulge in the cocktails, please note that the boat sways
slightly on the water, so it’s not just you. Neskuchny Sad
is gaining in popularity with a smart clientele, so do book
ahead.QB-5, Frunzenskaya nab. 18D, MPark Kultury,
tel. (+7) 495 363 64 64, www.nesad.ru. Open 12:00 -
06:00. €€€. PAESW
SKY LOUNGE
Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experi-
ence the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you
can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic
seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance.
Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind
panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience
by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide
range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly
delightful and the portions are more generous than you
will see almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and
filled with all kinds of treasures. The White Room is avail-
able to hire for private parties.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd
foor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75,
www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00
- 01:00. €€€. PAEGSW
TOWNHOUSE
A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and
a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every
continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests
and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for ev-
erything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply
cannot be missed! The warm octopus salad is the most
delightful starter for any meal. An après lunch or dinner
coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its
dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and
a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suit-
able for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from
book readings to jazz band performances.QD-5, Mer-
cure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW
ITALIAN
FLOTILLA RADISSON RESTAURANT
One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to
know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radis-
son Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable
vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian accent
as it plies a route along the Moskva River, taking in a series
of key city sights. Having invited many guests to Moscow
to join us on the route, it’s regularly got the thumbs-up,
and with winter fast approaching it’s already time to start
thinking about breaking the ice - literally and figuratively
- over a tasty risotto on the water.QA-3, Flotilla Radisson
Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina
pier, MKievskaya; Pushkinskaya Embankment, Gorky
Park Pier, MOktyabrskaya, www.radisson-cruise.ru.
€€€. PAEGW
MAMMA GIOVANNA
This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t
make the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks
in vistas it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate
atmosphere. The crispy pizzas here are particularly delec-
table and fortunately the place is laidback enough that
you can go to town on them with your hands. The mains
such as the excellent grilled tuna are also worth plump-
ing for and will certainly be filling, although desserts are
markedly dull in comparison.QC-4, Kadashevskaya ho-
tel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 87 20, www.mamma-giovanna.ru. Open 07:30
- 23:00. €€. PTAGSW
MOMO
Named as an amalgamation of mozzarella and Montasia
in Northern Italy, Momo proudly promises the best of Ital-
ian food, offering many meat and fish dishes alongside
the classic pizza and pasta, and a selection of French and
Italian vintage wines. Its business class clientele are spread
across three main rooms, the largest of which resembles
a summer conservatory complete with cushioned wicker
chairs.QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 66, bldg. 2, MPavelets-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest.ru. Open
11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGSW
PALAZZO DUCALE
Pallazo Ducale is about as close as you may ever come to
dining in a palace, the kind of majestic, luxurious setting
that perhaps only royalty are accustomed to. Though the
price is well above average the restaurant has a legitimate
case to suggest it merely reflects its quality. The restaurant
is renowned for its table service in both breakfast room
and main restaurant, both meeting the highest expecta-
tions.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 3, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
978 71 73, www.palazzodukale.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAEGSW
TARANTINO
Looking for an unpretentious place where it’s all about the
food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant
offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best with a
spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street but with-
out the extortionate prices characteristic of other Moscow
eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is homey
which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal with friends
or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there’s an ex-
tensive “mozzarella bar” where you can choose what you’d
like on your plate or in a doggy bag. Menu specialties: grilled
meat and seafood and a wide assortment of traditional Italian
pizzas and pastas.QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEGW
STEAK HOUSES
BUTCHERY BAR AND GRILL
A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks
and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection
leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurant’s culinary focus.
The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the
feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete
with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to
happily relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1,
MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom.
ru/page-butchery. Open 06:30 - 4:00. €€. PAGW
GOODBEEF
This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want
their meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here,
you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye,
sirloin or fillet mingon and some garnishes (the baked
potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want
RESERVE A TABLE
Have you ever wished you
could reserve a table at
popular Moscow restau-
rants more easily and conveniently? Moscow In Your
Pocket and company Leclick have made the perfect
solution for you. You can now make restaurant reserva-
tions direct from our website. Click on the blue “Reserve
a table”button when you open up a restaurant page for
Moscow In Your Pocket and quickly fill out the form. It
only takes a few seconds to click a couple of buttons
and send the reservation through. The booking system
will then reserve the table for you (if available) and send
you confirmation of the reservation via an SMS text
message in English!
30 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 31 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to eat Where to eat
SUNDAY BRUNCH
AZIMUT MOSCOW OLYMPIC HOTEL
Looking for a brunch place in Moscow? Look no further!
Azimut Moscow Olympic Hotel on Olimpiyskiy Prospekt
is continuing this wonderful tradition throughout the
autumn. Every Sunday guests can lounge around and so-
cialize with family and friends between 12:30 and 16:00
while enjoying a late breakfast. The menu changes every
week so you’ll never get bored of the selection of tradi-
tional Russian dishes at the generous buffet table, which
consists of cold starters and salads, a caviar station with
blini, a wide assortment of French and Spanish cheeses,
meat and fish dishes, delightful desserts and fresh fruit.
The price of the buffet also includes alcoholic and non-
alcoholic beverages. To get a 20% discount, book 72
hours in advance!QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt
Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com.
Sunday 12:30 - 16:00. Brunch 3,200Rbl and 2,600Rbl
in case of booking 72 hours in advance. Children till
6 years free of charge and children from 6 till 12 years
receive 50% discount.
MARRIOTT ROYAL AURORA
The royal brunch at the Aurora features a broad spread
of Russian and international cuisine with over 40 dif-
ferent dishes to be sampled. Italian snacks, blinis with
caviar, sushi and sashimi, salads, hot cooking stations,
homemade cakes, fruits, ice-cream and a chocolate
fountain and more are all there to be devoured. And
of course as usual there’s live music, special enter-
tainment for the kids and the drinks are free-flowing.
Marriott Grand Hotel offers an Oktoberfest brunch
(October 5th) and a Seafood brunch (November 16th).
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7)
495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.
com. Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Adults 3,300Rbl (no alcohol),
Royal brunch 4,200Rbl (includes Australian and Ital-
ian wines, prosecco, champagne cocktails, vodka,
mineral water, soft drinks and juices). Children un-
der 6 years free, up till 12 years 1,300Rbl. Reservation
required. PT
BOGDARNYA
Summer may be over but that doesn’t mean that it’s time
to bid farewell to fun, wholesome and revitalizing outdoor
activities! If you think you need a break from constant meet-
ings, traffic, calls, emails, car alarms going off, drilling and
everything else that big city life entails regardless of the
season then maybe it’s time to consider a little trip about
120km east of Moscow. There you will find Bogdarnya, a
beautiful and welcoming agricultural and tourist complex
that lets big city dwellers get back to nature, breathe some
fresh country air and try a taste of agritourism.
This 400-hectare riverside property - founded by an
Englishman, John Kopiski, and his Russian wife Nina - is
located in the picturesque countryside and forest. The
Kopiski’s are devoted Orthodox Christians with a mis-
sion to promote a healthy lifestyle. Here, everyone and
anyone can experience life on a real, working farm that
supplies meat to its own farm shop in Moscow. Here,
everyone and anyone can learn all about meat produc-
tion from paddock to plate, watch cheese making, milk
the cows, pet the goats, feed Boris the boar and engage
themselves in other forms of educational “agritainment”.
Here, everyone and anyone is made to feel welcome in
the true traditions of Russian hospitality.
Eating, drinking and relaxing are not the only things
guests can do during their stay at Bogdarnya. Plenty of ac-
tivities to suit just about anyone’s taste can be organized
no matter what time of year you plan your visit. As au-
tumn approaches nearer and nearer and the temperature
starts getting cooler and cooler, some recreational activi-
ties can actually keep you warm while you’re having fun!
Forest rides on horse back are a wonderful way to see
the nature and be one with yourself and your thoughts.
If you’ve never ridden a horse but would like to learn,
why not take a lesson? Don’t feel like being at the reins
but still fancy a romantic ride through nature? No prob-
lem! The experienced and friendly staff at Bogdarnya is
always delighted to take guests around in horse-drawn
carriages or sleds. When the horses get tired Bogda-
rnya also has a nice selection of quads and jeeps for
adrenaline-filled forest exploration – all with a possibil-
ity of overnight camping somewhere tranquil and far
removed from civilization.
Thrill-seeking aside, the complex also hosts children’s
camps, career guidance programs for school students,
plus corporate events and banquets for up to 150
people, training and seminars. Russian holidays are cel-
ebrated in fairytale folksy fashion with traditional cos-
tumes, music, dancing and much good old-fashioned
merriment - samovar, gluxvin and shashlik being at the
heart of many such festivities. A 19-room on-site hotel
is available for those who just don’t want to leave (and
rightfully so!). All rooms have a private WC and shower.
A visit to Bogdarnya is an entirely wholesome retreat
that benefits both body and soul.
QVladimir Oblast, Petushki, Krutovo Village 22B
(121km from Moscow), tel. (+7) 903 961 58 80, www.
bogdarnya.ru. Getting there: take a train from Kursky
railway station to Petushki. From Petushki take a taxi
to Bogdarnya.
PORTO MALTESE
Ceilings covered with sale cloth that looks like it's
moving in the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls
adorned with paintings of maritime settings – all this
creates an “at sea” mood once you step into the newly
opened Porto Maltese restaurant at Vegas Crocus City
shopping mall. This is the fifth Moscow restaurant by
the worldwide Mediterranean cuisine network and is a
perfect place to wind down after a long day of shop-
ping with family or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood
are laid out on a cushion of ice next to the kitchen for
guests to pick out what they want to eat. Exceptional
service, an original and exclusive approach to seafood
and a lengthy wine list are sure to impress even the
most experienced haute cuisine connoisseurs. QVe-
gas Crocus City, MKAD 65-66 km, MMyakinino, tel.
(+7) 495 236 10 15, www.portomaltese.ru. Open
10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. TNW
FOOD FROM FORMER
REPUBLICS
One of the unquestionable pluses of Russia’s Soviet
past is the popularity of restaurants serving cuisine
from former Soviet republics. Of these the most popu-
lar both with locals and visitors is probably Georgian,
but there are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri and Ka-
zakh places, as well as generalised ‘Caucasian’ cuisine
which appears all over the place. Although generally
quite meat-heavy - a staple of Caucasian cuisine is the
fabulous shashliky (grilled kebabs) which appear on
every menu - food from this part of the world is also
a good option for vegetarian visitors, making use of
the vegetables and pulses native to that part of the
world. Particularly popular dishes include Georgian
khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread), satsivi (chicken
in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-filled dump-
lings) and lobio (red bean stew with spices, herbs and
pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb) and
lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian
dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).
32 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 33 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
MYBAR
This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow
cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to cre-
ate a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking
for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well
and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and lo-
cal office workers looking for a post-work drink and some
fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s
glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection
varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with
some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the week-
end. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from
rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner
and relaxed opening hours (stay as long as you like!) have
made it a hit with both locals and stars such as the Crazy
Horse cabaret, and Wes Borland of Limp Bizkit fame with
his band Black Light Burns. Be prepared to queue a little to
get in later on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and
the crowd gets lively.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su.
Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAEG
Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under
those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite
nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control pol-
icy to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy
dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole
up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disap-
pointed.
LIVE MUSIC CLUBS
B2 CLUB
One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live
jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors
holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000
people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of
music imaginable in just one night - if you can manage
to figure your way around the labyrinthine interior that is.
Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear
some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices.
As well as the jazz club, disco club, latino music, lounge,
rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke,
billiards, sushi, a cinema and a courtyard - a veritable one
stop shop for a busy night out.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul.
8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www.
b2club.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEG
Nightlife Nightlife
DEFAQTO
This third venue in the FAQ chain of alternative bars is a bit
of jumble of styles and ideas. Like a strange cross between
English pub and American bar, with a stage that would suit
stand-up comedy well, you get the feeling that something
is about to happen here, although it never actually does.
The music is similarly confused, although the food is reliable
and the booth seating in particular is nice for smaller groups.
Apparently people dance here sometimes too, although we
still haven’t figured out how and where it’s possible.QD-2,
Ul. Bol. Lubyanka 30/2, bldg. 1, MTurgenevskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 624 44 97, www.defaqto.ru. Open Mon - Thu
12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 24hrs. PAEGW
DUMA
This place is not only literally underground it’s also through
a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down
in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to
a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some de-
cent live bands also often drop in to crank up the tempo.
The interior oozes groovy 1970’s Soviet chic - old sewing
machines, samovars and radios abound whilst classic art
films and Soviet retro clips are projected on to the walls.
In the summer the cellar bar empties as the large court-
yard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place
to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg. 3V (entrance from
Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11
19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. AEW
KITAISKY LYOTCHIK JAO DA
Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club,
attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large
numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you’ll inevi-
tably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast;
it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit
the spot so don’t worry about that hunger craving after a
few drinks, they have the perfect cure!QD-3, Lubyansky
proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56
11, msk.jao-da.ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -
08:00. PAEW
KRISIS ZHANRA
Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never
ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch
specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner,
before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described
as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where the
“crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format mul-
tiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its
location. On the recent night that we went, we were luck-
ily able to get a table and were treated to service and food
that usually costs a whole lot more in a location like this. The
soups, steaks and seafood dishes our table enjoyed were all of
great value and the alcohol selection was fairly priced. When
feeling unsure about what you want to enjoy this is a safe bet:
just make sure to come early or book a table in advance.QE-2,
Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat
11:30 - 06:00. PENGW
MASTERSKAYA
Masterskaya is a hippy inhabited ex-banya that looks part
Viennese coffee house and part bohemian artist’s studio.
There’s live concerts most evenings and dancing later
on, while during the day dreadlocked student types sit
and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled
room from their seclusion of their laptops. On the ground
floor you will also find their sister establishment Lady Jane
which serves excellent international food early in the eve-
nings and incredibly loud house music later on. To find it
go down the alley between Neglinaya ul. and ul. Rozh-
destvenka and head up to the first floor.QС-2, Teatralny
proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36,
www.mstrsk.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW
BARS
BAR STRELKA
The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this
bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become
a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since
it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup
where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting
you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro
mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically
pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills
or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs.
QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevs-
kaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PTALEGW
KVARTIRA 44
The main draw of this branch of the popular french style
cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace,
which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that
in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap
bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow,
and there’s no piano, but despite that it’s still one of the
nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm
and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in.QC-4, Ul. Mal.
Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34,
www.kv44.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAEW
MAYAK
Located on top of the Mayakovsky Theater, no wonder it is
known for attracting the Moscow intelligentsia. Frequented
by journalists, actors and writers, it’s the type of place where
‘just a quiet’ drink can go on for hours and include numer-
ous vodka shots and the occasional sing-along. Tables are
filled almost every night of the week lending it an energetic
crowded coffee house buzz, but luckily the service is not
affected by the large clientele volume. Sometimes profes-
sional musicians passing through for a drink on a weekend
tinkle the ivories of the ancient piano, but otherwise there’s
no background music only lively chatter.QB-3, Bol. Nikits-
kaya ul. 19, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 74 49, www.
clubmayak.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW
To read about even more
clubs and bars in Moscow
check out our website
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Dva Mohito pazhalusta! –
Two Mojitos please!
34 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 35 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Nightlife
36 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 37 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Nightlife Nightlife
ICON CLUB
The extravagant and glamorous Icon club, opened in Sep-
tember 2013, can accommodate 2000 over its main dance
floor, separate bar and dance floor, VIP areas and a roof ter-
race with superb views of Moscow at dawn. Though men
will have to pay to enter, it is worth it for top DJs taking
their lead from the most recent trends in Ibiza, Berlin and
New York.QC-4, Bolotnaya nab. 9, MKropotkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 364 09 09, www.iconclub.ru. Open closed,
Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
PALEGW
PROPAGANDA
A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a
chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is
attentive and swift so for better or worse you’re never long
without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portion-
wise and the lounge-house sounds put everyone into
their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick
in. Also one of the oldest clubs around in Moscow, they’ve
already notched up 11 years and still invite foreign djs reg-
ularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights.QD-2, Bol.
Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57
32, www.propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. PENGW
COCKTAIL BARS
DREAM BAR
The name Dream Bar may create an image of a very chic,
strictly face controlled cocktail bar, however the reality is
close to a cosy, jolly pub, despite billing themselves as a
cocktail bar, a pint seems to be an equally popular poison
of choice. Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the
prices are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inven-
tive and tasty. A popular hangout at the end of the day
for the after-work crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and
the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes
come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance mu-
sic, indicates it’s time to take off the ties and let your hair
down.QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye
prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68, www.dreambar.ru. Open
24hrs. PAW
SECRET BAR
Who would guess that a discreet door down an alley of
one of Moscow’s fanciest shopping streets hides one of
Moscow’s most popular cocktail bars? They would be
even more surprised by the democratic door policy and
cheap prices! These factors may help explain why Secret
Bar (hence the name) is packed with a hip and fun-loving
crowd on the weekends, and those looking to savour a
well-crafted cocktail or hookah during the weeknights.
On the busy nights it can take a while to get a drink, but
the cocktails are worth the wait, and with these prices,
you can order a few at a time!QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 6,
bldg. 3 (down alley behind Jean Jacques), MTverskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 921 07 50, www.secretbar.ru. Open 18:00 -
06:00. PAEW
THE HUDSON BAR
This smart American bar brings some much needed at-
tention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money
White Square business centre. The expat owner has thank-
fully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to
instill some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s
great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or
with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of
their budget and dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach
spurs great results. The crowd is mixed and friendly and
the hostess is there to help not hinder. A myriad of sports
channels (including US ones) and happy hour deals are
yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for inexplica-
ble reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work.
QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)
495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00.
PAEGW
TIKI-BAR
In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow
Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspira-
tion for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan
furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken di-
rectly from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the
Americas at the beginning of the 20th century. For those
who want a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices
of rum as well as an exotic choice of cocktails - definitely
a tropical menu! Tiki is a good party place, especially for
those who love to dance, hosting many Latin American
themed parties along with masterclasses in Latin Ameri-
can, Brazilian and salsa dancing.QA-2, Sadovaya-Kudrin-
skaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 02,
www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PGW
CLUBS
CLUB GARAGE
One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998),
Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday
/ Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties.
Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah
menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The
crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of
the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly
atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night
out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of
Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from
the end of April until October.QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8,
MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.
ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW
CLUB ROXBURY
In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-suc-
cessful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury
and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests
sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most
beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. In-
ternational DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and
sensory overdrive.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open
22:00 - 07:00. PAW
GOGOL CLUB
Something is surely going to happen here, any minute
now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got
that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus
tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and
the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor
festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of
time, be it long or short, day or night. The music is bo-
hemian European stuff you probably won’t remember
the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here.QC-2,
Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PENGW
Tyomnoe – Dark
Svetloe – Light (for beer)
38 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 39 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
What to see What to see
THE KREMLIN
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively
ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking
the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In
the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin,
the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient
city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of
the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red
walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architec-
tural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical,
through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet
modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, be-
ing part of the Government and Presidential estate, there
are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the
citadel an essential conquest.
Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took
Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are
a number of ticket booths, the most important being lo-
cated in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Krem-
lin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having
bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom
located near the ticket office, under the gate.
A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself,
along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient
buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the spar-
kly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a
separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which
will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be
purchased before you enter the Kremlin.
Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s
Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for
which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibi-
tions can usually be bought at the entrance to the build-
ings in which they are held, although it is advisable to
check before you enter the Kremlin.
Inside the Kremlin
Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative young-
ster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected
in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to
Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it
with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework.
Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral,
where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was
built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are
considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow
given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey
Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and
Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.
Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its
name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes
are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now
Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a cor-
ner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church
notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine
icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the
15th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the
Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest
and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristo-
tle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned
Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s
horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers
now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes.
The cossacks brought them back after they caught up
with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter
service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.
NEXT TO RED SQUARE
ALEXANDROVSKY GARDENS
The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to
take a stroll and get down to some serious people watch-
ing as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of
the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight
of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to
the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change
ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal
flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
KREMLIN ARMOURY
You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th
Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s
gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and impe-
rial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are
the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely
glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Ar-
moury tickets can only be used after the time printed on
them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin.
QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49,
www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The
Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30,
16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be pur-
chased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket
ofce in Alexandrovsky sad.
LENIN MAUSOLEUM
On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the
founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-non-
sense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you
forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No
bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure
you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead
but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 -
13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.
ST. BASIL’S CATHEDRAL (POKROVSKY SOBOR)
Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Ba-
sil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was
built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat
of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s
position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from
outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also
worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces
of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a
stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated
with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one
direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes
above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simul-
taneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit
inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the impor-
tance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red
Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.
saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl.
RIVER CRUISES
FLOTILLA RADISSON ROYAL MOSCOW
A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best
ways to see the city from its very centre, with unpar-
alleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off,
we leave behind the Moscow International Business
centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the sec-
ond tallest of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’. Across the river
is the ‘other White House’, the house of the Russian
government. A few minutes’ sailing takes us to the
Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoy’s Kitty
and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in re-
ality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and
Yeltsin and many others.
The silhouette of a hammer and sickle peeks out
above the treetops, a glimpse of the gargantuan struc-
ture of Moscow State University, the world’s tallest
educational building and the ‘big sister’ of the seven.
At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny
Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great
marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its
creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed
the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour
opposite.
On Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-co-
loured arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas
church, is the House on the Embankment, built to
house the Soviet elite.
From the river we’ve got perfect views of the Kremlin and
the churches huddled inside it as we arrive at the heart of
Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a mil-
lennia St Basil’s idiosyncratic domes are still breathtaking;
legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them
making something so beautiful ever again.
QA-2, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier,
MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radisson-
cruise.ru. From hotel Ukraina boats leave Mon - Fri
at 13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 20:00, 21:00, Sat - Sun 13:00,
15:00, 17:00, 19:00, 21:00 (trip lasts 2,5 hrs). From
Gorky Park boats leave Mon - Wed 13:30, 16:30,
19:30 (1,5 hrs) and 15:00 and 20:00 (2,5 hrs), Thu - Fri
13:30, 16:30, 19:30 (1,5 hrs) and 15:00, 17:00, 20:00,
21:00 (2,5 hrs), Sat - Sun 13:30. 16:30, 19:30 (1,5 hrs),
13:00, 15:00, 17:00, 19:00 and 21:00 (2,5 hrs). It is ad-
visable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can
also be bought online). Tickets for adults 900Rbl,
children 650Rbl, frst class 2,000Rbl. AUKW
40 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 41 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
What to see What to see
THE CENTRAL MUSEUM OF MUSICAL CULTURE
The Central Museum of
Music’s permanent ex-
hibition is an impressive
journey through musical
instruments of the past
and from all corners of the
world in all their weird and
wonderful diversity. Take a
trip through Russian musi-
cal history from giant bala-
laikas to the famous and eerie theremin, passing on the
way hefty early record players and novelty music boxes.
The global collection includes crazy-looking instruments
from Cuba to Korea - who knew you could make guitars
from armadillos? We recommend going for a guided tour
as they’re equipped with recordings from many of the
strange inhabitants of the exhibition, which makes the
experience a lot richer. As well as the permanent exhibi-
tion there’s always another temporary one on a subject of
Russian or international music, and a whole host of events
throughout the year which you can find out about on their
website.QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Open 11:00 -
19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 175 - 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50 -
250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free.
TRETYAKOV GALLERY
For visitors anxious to un-
cover the mysteries of the
famous ‘Russian soul’, the
Tretyakov Gallery is the
place to start. Founded in
1856 by influential mer-
chant and collector Pavel
Tretyakov and presented as
a gift to the city in 1892, it
is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging
from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the po-
litically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite
realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and reveal-
ing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffer-
ing yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English.
Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information
sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at
least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones.
The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century
collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away.
QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 -
18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100
- 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.
CHURCHES AND
MONASTERIES
CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST THE SAVIOUR
This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look
like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks
of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the
first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored ex-
ample came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny
beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a
close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built in
honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathe-
dral houses a museum on the history of the site where you
can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets
built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had
originally planned for. QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropot-
kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours
in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl.
DONSKOY MONASTERY
The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept
monastery, originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The sur-
rounding brick walls include twelve towers with the main
entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you enter.
Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox Church
until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded by pleas-
ant parklands and a hub of religious activity very popular with
pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century miracle working
icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside the monastery
grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour of the Church’s ef-
forts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw
of course is the stunning 16th Century churches. QDonska-
ya pl. 1, MShabolovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 02 63, www.
donskoi.org. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
NOVODEVICHY MONASTERY
Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific
place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by
the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a for-
tress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion
globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524.
It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned
his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the
Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful
cloister with an impressive icon collection.QNovodevichy
proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open
09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
MUSEUMS
ALL-RUSSIAN DECORATIVE ART MUSEUM
Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than
200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Rus-
sia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates
and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary
Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are
some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood bas-
kets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings
are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum
also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from
the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to
20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excur-
sions in English are also available. QC-1, Delegatskaya
ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.
vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon
of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl.
GREAT PATRIOTIC WAR MUSEUM 1941-1945
Dedicated to the Great Pa-
triotic War or World War II as
it is known in the west, this
museum opened in 1995 on
the 50th anniversary of the
Great Victory. The museum
houses a set of evocative
battle dioramas on the
ground floor, with excellent
explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you
enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase
leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space.
Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about
the different battles and parties involved.QUl. Bratyev Fon-
chenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www.
poklonnayagora.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon, last Thu of the month. Admission 100Rbl.
INSTITUTE OF RUSSIAN REALIST ART
If you are a fan of realist art
and haven’t yet exhausted
your interest with a visit to
the Tretyakov Gallery, then
it is well worth making the
trek down here to see Rus-
sia’s single largest private
collection of realist art.
Located in a former cotton
print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors.
There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet
realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the
genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by
Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and de-
cay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism.
QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, Derbenevskaya
nab. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.
rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.
MOSCOW MULTIMEDIA ART MUSEUM
This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on
photography and video art and regularly hosts great ex-
hibitions many of which make particularly good use of
the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central
hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with
its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent
of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA.QB-4, Ul. Os-
tozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11
00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 300Rbl.
STATE CENTRAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY
RUSSIAN HISTORY
Start early in the day with
this one. There’s a whole
century of the most tur-
bulent, convoluted, well
documented history to
be seen and absorbed.
Housed in a 1780s mansion
and former premises of
the Moscow English Club,
this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolu-
tion. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum,
covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts
are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the
experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary
phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race
starts.QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00
- 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
100 - 250Rbl. Children till 6 years old free.
STATE MUSEUM-ESTATE ARKHANGELSKOE
This sprawling 18th Cen-
tury countryside estate
once belonged to the
exceptionally rich Prince
Yusupov and is one of the
quietest stately parks with-
in a reasonable distance
of the city. The buildings
themselves usually house
historical and contemporary exhibitions from the local
scene. In the winter it‘s a romantic setting for that quintes-
sential Russian troika (sleigh) ride and there’s also plenty
of stall selling hot drinks. The formal gardens, which of-
fer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside,
are dotted with neo-classical sculptures, hidden summer
pavilions, while the forested area leading to the small river
is lovely for a lazy stroll.Q5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTush-
inskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su.
Park open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 21:00.
Museum open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat and Sun and holidays
10:00 - 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed of
the month. Admission park 150Rbl. Ticket for park and
museum 400 Rbl. For temporary exhibitions you need
to pay seperately.
Take note that most museum ticket offices close
one hour before the official closing time.
Also remember most museums ask you
to buy an extra photography ticket if you would
like to take photos or videos
42 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 43 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
What to see What to see
NIKOLAY ROERICH MUSEUM
Nikolay Roerich and his family are possibly some of the
most important Russian anthropologists of the past 100
years. Travelling all over Asia for years on end in the early
20th Century, Nikolay and his clan recorded the beliefs,
life and art of various different nationalities hoping to
preserve their way of life, describe it to the world and also
learn from it. This fantastic museum is dedicated not only
to Nikolay’s priceless paintings, but also the people he
met during his many years of tough travel. Music, lights
and themed exhibits add great atmosphere to the huge
collection of artworks and artifacts from the Roerich fam-
ily, whilst extensive English descriptions add depth to the
work on display. Above all it is Nikolay Roerich’s magical
and mystical imagination and painterly skills that shine
through - the most impressive works depicting the re-
mote and romantic beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas
and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your mem-
ory long after leaving. A must see.QB-3, Maly Znamen-
sky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17,
www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
100 - 220Rbl.
SKRYABIN MUSEUM
This tiny but well-preserved museum is a must-see for
amateurs of the eccentric composer Alexander Scryabin
(1872-1915). Most of the original furnishings have been
retained and each seems to have a story to tell. By far the
most interesting of these is an unusual device made by the
man himself. As a synaesthete, Scryabin associated differ-
ent musical tonalities with different colours. This led him
to construct some unusual contraptions which allowed
him to compose pieces for piano and coloured lights, one
of which can be seen in the museum. For the early days of
Russian electricity this was pretty futuristic, but Scryabin
had grander plans: he dreamt of a spectacular multi-me-
dia concert in the Himalayas which he imagined would be
used in a new age. The popularity he had enjoyed during
his life suddenly vanished upon his death, but in recent
years his music has enjoyed something of a revival and he
is known today as a highly original and compelling com-
poser.QB-3, Bol. Nikolopeskovsky per. 11, MSmolens-
kaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 19 01, www.anscriabin.ru. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue and
last Fri of the month. Admission 200Rbl.
ARTISTIC PLACES
BULGAKOV HOUSE MUSEUM - THEATRE
Steeped in popular Moscow legend, this is where Bulga-
kov, the author of Master and Margarita lived and wrote his
famous novel. Today it is an artist’s gathering place with
exhibitions of contemporary Russian artists and a histori-
cal exhibition dedicated to the house’s most famous in-
habitant. The resident feline Behemoth is more than fat, he
is adorable and there’s even a cute cafe serving tea, coffee
and pies.QB-1, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 970 06 19, www.dombulgakova.ru. Open
13:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Admission free.
LEV TOLSTOY MEMORIAL ESTATE
IN KHAMOVNIKI
The house where Tolstoy and his family lived after leaving his
family estate and moving to Moscow in the 1881 has been
kept in pristine condition. You almost expect them to come
inside and sit down to dinner or Sofia Tolstoya to serve tea
from the samovar or to see Leo stomping up the staircase to
his study to write a few more pages of War and Peace. This
place makes clear how the family spent their time, including
displays and exhibits of the shoes that Tolstoy made himself.
QB-5, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499
246 94 44. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. Chil-
dren till 7 years free of charge.
LEV TOLSTOY MUSEUM
Dedicated to the life of
the man behind War and
Peace and Anna Karenina,
this is a reverential place
packed with personal and
literary material. A complex
and conflicted individual,
the exhibits trace his life
from childhood to death
and the emergence of his
major works. Easy to fol-
low due to some great carded English translations, this is
a good introduction to Tolstoy.QB-4, Ul. Prechistenka 11,
MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 74 10. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the
month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
ALL RUSSIAN EXHIBITION CENTRE (VDNKH)
This massive complex of pavilions buildings whose glory
is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a
throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so
pavilions built to house displays of progress of the great
collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of com-
mercial enterprises and some are not that different to
what is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship
Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated
to a Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex sur-
rounded by various pavilions in different designs which
each represent a Soviet republic and its achievements.
Some weekends it is crawling with families and sports
enthusiasts. Space fans should look out for the soaring
monument to space flight and the cosmonautics museum
in its base. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they
mean this place or the metro station opposite that goes by
the same name.QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495
544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Park open 09:00 - 21:00.
Museums 11:00 - 19:00. Mon closed. Entrance park free.
Museums 0 - 300Rbl.
GORKY PARK
The immortal Gorky Park has had a complete makeover
in 2011 and gone are the garish rides and rollercoasters
as the park has gone back to being a wholesome place
to picnic or jog and enjoy an ice-cream. Bikes are avail-
able for rent near the entrance, there are pedalos on the
ponds, picnic areas are scattered throughout and near
the Andreyevsky bridge where salsa classes gather in
warm weather, there’s even an artificial beach. In addi-
tion to all that you’ll find regular open-air concerts and
cinema, flea markets, yoga classes, great places to eat
and drink, ping pong tables and the contemporary art
space Garage CCC. There’s usually something special
happening every weekend, with many events especially
marketed at kids.QB-5, Ul. Krymsky Val 9, MPark Kul-
tury, tel. (+7) 499 237 35 24, www.park-gorkogo.com.
Open 24hrs. W
TSARITSYNO
Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town
palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Mos-
cow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet
with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing
the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins.
Over the ensuing years it became a fashionable country
estate and a particular favourite place for locals to enjoy
picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has
been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace
at its heart is now looking brighter and more elaborately
decorated than at possibly any other time during its his-
tory. The huge gardens, meadows and woods surrounding
the palace are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDols-
kaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.
tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Muse-
ums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Muse-
ums 30 - 300Rbl. UK
PARKS AND GARDENS
Moscow is known as one of the greenest capitals for good
reason - with over 100 parks, gardens, and squares; there
is always somewhere to provide fresh air, exercise, and an
escape from the city’s busy streets. They are also varied
enough to provide something for everyone.
The Moscow Zoo, despite its location in a busy city, feels
large, and peaceful, and is great for children. Here you can
see a huge range of animals, including dolphins, polar
bears, wolves, lions, giraffes, and a Siberian tiger.
If you’d like to escape the summer heat, one of Moscow’s
oldest parks, Sokolniki, is a great destination. There are
amusement rides, including a ferris wheel, bike rental, ten-
nis courts, football pitches, volleyball areas, an open-air
theatre with free summer concerts, and an open-air pool.
Moscow is home to many estates with beautiful grounds,
including Kuskovo Park, one of the oldest country estates
in Moscow, which features a palace, a lake, and many small
pavilions, one of which houses the ceramics museum. Oth-
er such estates include the Kolomenskoye Museum Estate,
and the Arkhangelskoye Estate, a quiet stately park once
owned by Prince Yusopov.
Both Izmailovo and Gorky Park have undergone recent
makeovers. Gorky Park is now a wholesome place to picnic
or jog, with many attractions, such as bike hire, pedalos on
the ponds, flea markets, and an art gallery. Izmailovo Park
now has modern tennis courts and a pavilion for curling,
together with its many other attractions.
Other interesting parks include the apothecary garden,
which was founded by Peter the Great in 1706, the Muzeon
Sculpture Park, which is the ‘dumping ground’ for statues
from the Soviet Union that lost their places in other parks,
and Vorobyevy Gory (Sparrow Hills), which affords great
views of the city.
44 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 45 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to stay What to see
Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month, you
want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get
the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels rang-
ing from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled
with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located
and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking
to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located
hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying busi-
ness executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind
after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.
5 STARS
ARARAT PARK HYATT
QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783
12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room
prices start at 16,000Rbl).
CROWNE PLAZA MOSCOW WTC
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room
prices start at 6,200Rbl).
HILTON MOSCOW LENINGRADSKAYA
QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota,
tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
HOTEL BALTSCHUG KEMPINSKI MOSCOW
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).
HOTEL NATIONAL
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,500Rbl).
HOTEL SAVOY MOSCOW
QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms
(Room prices start at 37,760Rbl).
LOTTE HOTEL MOSCOW
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms
(Room prices start at 15,000Rbl).
MARRIOTT MOSCOW GRAND HOTEL
QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,000Rbl).
MARRIOTT MOSCOW ROYAL AURORA
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7)
495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru.
231 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl).
METROPOL
QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,400Rbl).
RADISSON ROYAL HOTEL MOSCOW
QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru.
497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at
19,000Rbl).
Hot in summer, Chelyabinsk is bitterly cold in the winter
months, although the temperature ‘rose’ to -26C during
the day, and the Miass river was frozen solid. Wandering
the streets for more than fifteen minutes – even when
fully wrapped up against the elements is likely to turn you
into a block of ice rather quickly. Nonetheless, the pedes-
trianised Ul. Kirova just over the river and ending with a
statue of Lenin on Revolution Square (surrounded by ice
sculptures) is where the action is; even in winter, locals
venture out; there’s no point in waiting for winter to pass
here as you’d lose six months each year.
On 15th February 2013, Chelyabinsk – not normally used
to making front page news even in Russia, briefly hit the
international headlines when a massive meteorite entered
the earth’s atmosphere and crashed in the Chelyabinsk
region. Over a thousand people were injured enough to
require medical treatment, most from shards of glass and
panic ensued as the object had previously been undetect-
ed. Given the harsh winter weather a welcome side-step is
the city’s museum, conveniently located by the crossroads
of Truda & Kirova, overlooking the river.
Granted most Russian regional museums are pretty dull
affairs, but this one has got its act together, and pride of
place is a beach ball sized rock, which is that largest in-
tact piece of the meteorite and there is accompanying
information on the events of that day, plus about foreign
objects in general.
Entry to the museum is 180Rbl and there’s a sign warning
that no alcohol is to be consumed on the premises (We
enquired “do people normally come to hang out & drink
in a museum”; the response from the cashier was that it’s
become a regular feature for wedding parties to pile in &
take photographs, and they try to slip in a bottle of cham-
pagne, or three)!
Granted, Chelyabinsk will never rival Moscow in tourist
numbers, but if you do find yourself here, there’s a little
more to be discovered than you may have thought – and
you don’t even need a camel to get here!
GETTING THERE
Flights take just under two hours from Moscow to Che-
lyabinsk, Aeroflot, S7, URAL & YUTAir all fly daily. Trains
take over a day, so bring a good book with you (or a large
bottle of vodka)!
CHELYABINSK –
A SILK ROAD SECRET!
The Silk Road throws up images of camels trekking from
China through Central Asia to the Middle East carrying
precious cargo, centuries of trade before Europeans built
boats large enough to explore further than their own con-
tinent. The actual name ‘The Silk Road’ is misleading as it
was in fact a serious of overland routes from East to West
(& back), and the name itself was coined by outsiders at
a later date.
Ships of the desert (aka camels) are usually associated with
the heat; their ability to survive weeks without drinking
water has made them invaluable to travelers for centuries,
so arriving in Chelyabinsk in -29C temperatures one could
be forgiven for questioning why on earth the city coat of
arms has a large camel on it!
Chelyabinsk takes its name from the fortress of Chelyaba
(named after a nearby Bashkir village), which itself was
built in the early 1770s to protect early trade routes, from
marauding Bashkirs – yes, surprisingly the Silk Road actu-
ally stretched this far north! It remained however a small,
provincial town until the late 19th Century when in 1892
the railway was built, linking Chelyabinsk to Moscow, and
four years later a branch line to Yekaterinburg & the Trans-
Siberian. The rapid growth that followed through both
trade & industry led the town to become known as “Chi-
cago behind the Urals”, and this increased further in the
1930s with Stalin’s programme of industrialization. During
the Second World War, Chelyabinsk’s strategic location
away from the advancing Nazis led to large-scale military
production for the war effort, and the city became infor-
mally known as Tankgrad as over 18,000 tanks were manu-
factured there. Today, Chelyabinsk’s population stands at
just over a million.
WHERE TO STAY
The Radisson Blu chain now have a hotel in Chelyabinsk
(www.radissonblu.com/hotel-chelyabinsk); otherwise
take your pick from a bunch of locally run places.
46 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 47 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to stay Where to stay
RENAISSANCE MOSCOW MONARCH CENTRE
HOTEL
QA-1, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel.
(+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.
com. 366 rooms (Room prices start at 8,024Rbl).
SHERATON MOSCOW SHEREMETYEVO
AIRPORT HOTEL
QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanerna-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport.
com. 342 rooms (Room prices start at 5,000Rbl).
SHERATON PALACE
QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms
(Room prices start at 5,500Rbl).
THE RITZ-CARLTON
QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room
prices start at 15,000Rbl).
THE ST. REGIS MOSCOW HOTEL NIKOL’SKAYA
QD-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967
77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 210 rooms (Prices
start at 11,000Rbl).
4 STARS
ADAGIO MOSCOW PAVELETSKAYA
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,100Rbl).
AZIMUT MOSCOW OLYMPIC HOTEL
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (5500
Room prices start ).
BEST WESTERN PLUS VEGA HOTEL & CONVEN-
TION CENTER
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms
(Room prices start at 3,600Rbl).
COURTYARD BY MARRIOTT MOSCOW CITY
CENTER HOTEL
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms
(Room prices start at 4,000Rbl).
HOLIDAY INN SUSCHEVSKY
QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225
82 82, www.holidayinn.com. 312 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,500Rbl).
MARCO POLO PRESNJA
QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 73 rooms
(Room prices start at 5,890Rbl).
ASK THE CONCIERGE
Interview with Marina
Kalinina, concierge at the
Hotel National.
Please tell us something
about yourself. I have been
working at the Hotel National
for more than 18 years. When
I set foot in this legendary hotel
in 1996 I immediately fell in love
with it forever. This hotel combines the rich history of Rus-
sia with the welcoming nature and openness of its people,
the best of the century old traditions of Russian hospitality.
I love my hotel, I love people, I love what I am doing and I
am very proud to be working in this historical place.
What makes you love Moscow? Everything! Moscow is
a country in a country with all its extremes. I love Moscow
for a multitude of reasons, because Moscow is always an
interesting city for me, where I can always find some new
things to do and see, it’s unique, exciting and fun. Because
it is beautiful at any time of the year! Because Moscow has
a great history of 868 years and I am proud of my city!
Can you tell us something about Hotel National? The
hotel’s building was built in 1902 by the famous Russian
architect Alexander Ivanov, who belonged to the old gen-
eration of architects specializing in Russian modern style.
The building combines classical architecture with modern
decorative elements. The hotel “Nationalnaya”was opened
in 1903 and became very popular because of its excellent
location, comfortable and luxury rooms and elegant inte-
rior. Members of royal families, famous writers, composers,
diplomats – they have all been guests of our hotel.
We heard that Vladimir Lenin himself stayed at the ho-
tel, is that true? In March 1918 members of the first Soviet
government headed by Vladimir Lenin stayed at our hotel.
Vladimir Lenin with Nadezhda Krupskaya stayed in room
107 on the 3rd floor, Yakov Sverdlov, Felix Dzerzhinsky, Lev
Trotsky and Iosif Stalin stayed here at the same time. History
comes alive in each corner of this legendary hotel.
What hidden gem in Moscow can you recommend
to our readers? Glinka State Central Museum of Musi-
cal Culture (Fadeeva ul., 2). It is an absolutely unique
museum complex. Its collection boasts very rare musical
instruments, rare music notes, literature, as well asauto-
graphs of famous composers. The rare collection of musi-
cal instruments includes masterpieces of Gvarneri’ s fam-
ily, Stradivari, Amati. World famous composers – Sergey
Rakhmaninov, Alexander Glazunov, Dmitry Shostakovich
and others - gave their manuscripts of musical master-
pieces to this museum. Visitors can see the original ver-
sions of them. Here you may also delight in seeing the
only organ in the world made the by the German master
Friedrich Ladegast that has been preserved since 1868.
Its sound is very soft, making it perfect for romantic mu-
sic. Another masterpiece that every music aficionado will
greatly appreciate is an organ made by Alexander Shuke
in 1979 (his very last instrument). This museum has its
own concert halls with beautiful musical programs.
Sometimes during a special event program the audience
may gently touch and feel these unique musical instru-
ments – an experience you will never forget.
Moscow has changed a lot over the last centu-
ries, what do you like best about this? What really
makes me happy is the fact that Moscow has recently
renovated a huge number of beautiful historic man-
sions and parks on its territory. It is a pleasure to get
away from the noise of the city, feel the calm of na-
ture and fresh air, for example in Vorontsovsky park
that has existed since the 18th century. If you make it
there, don’t forget to pass by a newly restored church
which was built in 1807. In the summer you may take
a boat trip here, gently passing white and pink lotuses
and century old oaks. In the winter there is plenty of
space for skiing, skating and tobogganing. I also love
Catherine’s Garden – a popular garden at the Saltyk-
ovy’s place that was created in the 18th century. The
Trubetskiye’s estate in Khamovniki district has been
around since the 17th century. There are lots of other
picturesque parks and gardens in Moscow. I have just
mentioned my favorite ones.
M A R R I O T T M O S C O W
R O YA L A U R O R A
11 Petrovka St.
+7 (495) 937 10 00
M A R R I O T T M O S C O W
G R A N D
26/1 Tverskaya St.
+7 (495) 937 00 00
M A R R I O T T M O S C O W
T V E R S K AYA
34 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya St.
+7 (495) 258 30 00
F O L L O W U S
A U T U MN
H A P P E N I N GS
Excellent cuisine, impeccable
service and friendly atmosphere are
waiting for your in Moscow Marriott
Hotels. Enjoy our Sunday brunches
and other restaurant special offers.
A
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t
i
s
i
n
g
Insta
For hundreds more reviews of hotels
across Russia and Europe
check out our website
www.inyourpocket.com
October - November 2014 49 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Where to stay
MARRIOTT MOSCOW TVERSKAYA
QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv.
162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
MERCURE MOSCOW PAVELETSKAYA
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,800Rbl).
NOVOTEL MOSCOW CENTRE
QNovoslobodskaya ul. 23, MMendeleevskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 780 40 00, www.accorhotels.com. 255 rooms
(Room prices start at 4,602Rbl).
NOVOTEL MOSCOW CITY HOTEL
QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7)
495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
3 STARS
AZIMUT MOSCOW TULSKAYA HOTEL
QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495
987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,500Rbl).
IBIS MOSCOW CENTRE BAKHRUSHINA
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,990Rbl).
IBIS PAVELETSKAYA
QUl. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
661 85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices
start at 3,900Rbl).
WARSAW
QC-5, Leninsky pr. 2/1, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 499
238 41 01, www.hotelwarsaw.ru. 135 rooms (Room
prices start at 4,600Rbl).
ZOLOTOY KOLOS
QYaroslavskaya ul. 15/3, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 617
63 56, www.zkolos.ru. 331 rooms (Room prices start at
2,400Rbl).
HOSTELS
GODZILLAS
QC-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7)
495 699 42 23, godzillashostel.com. 23 rooms (Room
prices start at 864Rbl).
IVAN HOSTEL
QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 9 rooms
(Prices per bed start from 700Rbl).
Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are
obliged to register within seven working days
(this excludes weekends and public holidays).
Remember your hotel is obliged to register you as
staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register
you make sure you complain – the registrations is
their responsibility, not yours!
50 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 51 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Shopping Shopping
MARKETS
DANILOVSKY
QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru.
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
DOROGOMILOVSKY
QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249
55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N
LENINGRADSKY RYNOK
QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71.
Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N
VERNISAZH IN IZMAILOVO
QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00.
RAKETA WATCHES
Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the
only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it
is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only
others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own
movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It
was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter
the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family.
After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what
had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reor-
ganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The
factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum,
and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the
Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in
1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory).
In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into
outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rock-
et) to commemorate this. www.raketa.com.
PODIUM CONCEPT STOR
QC-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, MKuznetsky most,
tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www.podiumfashion.com.
Open 12:00 – 23:00.
TSUM
Q4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatralnaya, (+7)
495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. Open 10:00 – 22:00,
Sun 11:00 – 22:00.
TSVETNOY CENTRAL MARKET
Q4th Floor , C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bul-
var, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open
10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00.
Skolko stoit? – How much is it?
GIFTS AND SOUVENIRS
ART LEBEDEV
You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here
but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook,
situated just off Tverskaya ul., is full of trendy design gifts
with a hint of the traditional thrown into the mix. QC-2,
Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 772 96 84, www.store.artlebedev.ru/ofine/psm/.
Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW
DULYOVSKY FARFOR
The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice
crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets
designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to
1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright
wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20,
MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.
ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A
GALLERY MIKHAILOV
For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with
the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit
to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate
jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick
holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the
finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitro-
vka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www.
vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
PROSTO TAK
They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look
of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with
these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and
toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They
also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and
bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499
755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
RUSSIAN GIFTS
This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything
you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhlo-
ma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite
jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl.
Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984
71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. ALK
SHALTAI - BOLTAY
The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the
quaint fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky
Passazh, the shop features all manner of designer and
handmade goodies for the modern sophisticate or con-
temporary rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets
and more for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home
or on the body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping
center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7
(495) 768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 -
22:00. AL
RUSSIAN SOUVENIRS
Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just
talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are
looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we
recommend you consider buying some of the following:

Platok
A perfect present for any female friend or relative.
These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can
either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being
worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma
look even cuter than usual by being worn around the
head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable
type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The
real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so
delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled
through a woman’s wedding ring.
Birch wood crafts
The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the fur-
ther in to the countryside you get, the more you notice
that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It
then comes as no surprise that Russians have been
experts at producing items carved out of the bark of
their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly
popular as they are said to be very good for your hair.
Khokhloma
This traditional red, black and gold Russian design gen-
erally painted onto wooden household items dates
back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in
your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you
have space for more you can find almost anything with
khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco
sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic
team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing.
Vodka and Caviar
They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and
crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands
come out under the Russky standart label although lado-
ga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch
look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black be-
luga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the
planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100
if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street
touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.
ART SALON ON
STAROSADSKY
This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of
semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcraft-
ed into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative
items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking
to take away an unique little piece of Russia, rather
than another item from the usual tourist conveyor
belt then look no further than these cabinets filled
with items made from gleaming Russian malachite,
agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lus-
trous precious stones. For something even more ex-
otic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin
meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of
the one that made the headlines in February 2013 in
Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of
paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes,
pottery, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some
exclusive majolica crafts created by two famous
Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev.
QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel.
(+7) 495 624 15 83, www.art-gemstones.ru. Open
11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
DON GIULIO
SALUMERIA FORMAGGERIA PRODOTTI
ITALIANI A MOSCA
This unusual little
shop marks out its
own Italian territory
in the unfamiliar Mos-
cow surroundings.
The combination of
the most traditional
Moscow architecture
in the centre of the city and the powerfully beat-
ing Italian heart inside makes this little shop a truly
inimitable environment. A wide array of Italy’s finest
authentic foodstuffs is on offer here, and the chef, Ro-
berto Bruno, will be there to point you in the right di-
rection of whatever taste of Italy you might desire. The
owner himself, Giulio Zompi, will be happy to use his
expertise of selling Italian wines to advise you on what
to drink with your fresh assortment of Italian goods.
They also opened a shop at Mal. Bronnaya ul. 22
(metro Tverskaya).QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 926 666 33 70. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
52 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 53 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Business directory Shopping
ACCOUNTANTS
AND CONSULTANTS
AWARA
QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, of. 12, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com.
BAUKE VAN DER MEER TAX & LEGAL SERVICES
QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, of. 203b, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl.
DELOITTE
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787
06 00, www.deloitte.com.
ERNST AND YOUNG
QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPavelets-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na nabere-
jnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
LOWLANDS
QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7)
495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru.
MEGA-INTEL
Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00.
PRICEWATERHOUSECOOPERS
QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val.
10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru.
SHR CONSULTING
QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel.
(+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com.
THE LIGHTHOUSE GROUP
QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, ofce 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
BUSINESS ASSOCIATIONS
ASSOCIATION OF EUROPEAN BUSINESSES
QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8,
MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@
aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru.
FINNISH-RUSSIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.
HOSPITALITY IDEAS AND TRENDS CLUB
QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 59 46, [email protected], www.club-hit.ru.
RUSSIAN-GERMAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234
49 50, www.vdw.ru.
THE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th foor, MMayakovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.
THE RUSSO-BRITISH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QС-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
EXHIBITION AND
CONFERENCE CENTRES
ALL RUSSIAN EXHIBITION CENTRE (VVTS)
QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544
34 00, www.vvcentre.ru.
CENTRAL EXHIBITION HALL MANEZH
QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums.
info/M419.
CROCUS EXPO (INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION
CENTRE)
Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino,
tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru.
EXPOCENTRE
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 -
18:00.
GOSTINY DVOR
QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7)
495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
SOKOLNIKI CULTURE & EXHIBITION CENTRE
(KVTS SOKOLNIKI)
Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7)
495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00.
WORLD TRADE CENTRE MOSCOW (WTC)
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.
LAWYERS AND NOTARIES
TIM SERVICES & TIM ADVISERS
QShluzovaya nab. 8, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 989 18 17, www.timservices.ru.
RECRUITMENT
ANTAL RUSSIA
QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, of. 104, MTver-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com.
G-NIUS RUSSIA - RECRUITMENT & EXECUTIVE
SEARCH
QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru.
BOOKSHOPS
BOOKHUNTER
QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 786 25 69, www.bookhunter.ru. Open 09:00 -
19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
BOOKSHOP MOSKVA
QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
BUSINESS-CENTRE BOOKBRIDGE
QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00.
DOM INOSTRANNOY KNIGI
QС-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel.
(+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 -
21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
RESPUBLIKA
QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovs-
kaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open
24hrs. AKW
TORGOVY DOM BIBLIO - GLOBUS
QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel.
(+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 -
22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW
SUPERMARKETS
AZBUKA VKUSA
Qwww.azbukavkusa.ru.
BAKHETLE
QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A
GLOBUS GOURMET
QD-2, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1 bldg. 1, MKitay-gorod, tel. (+7) 495
662 66 03, www.globusgurme.ru. Open 24 hrs. PA
GUM GASTRONOM №1
QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788
43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK
HEDIARD
QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkin-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open
08:00 - 23:00.
YELISEEVSKY
QС-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650
46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A
SHOPPING CENTRES
ATRIUM
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
DENIS SIMACHEV STORE
QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 12, bldg. 2, MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 629 57 02, www.denissimachev.com. Open
11:00 - 22:00. AW
EVROPEYSKY SHOPPING CENTRE
QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495
921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 23:00. AK
GUM
QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43
43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
LOTTE PLAZA
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495
641 25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
LKW
METROPOLIS SHOPPING CENTER
QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru.
Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
NOVINSKY
QNovinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 797
62 00, www.novinsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
OKHOTNY RYAD
QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AULKW
TSVETNOY CENTRAL MARKET
QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 -
22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW
SPASEEBO
At work, in the car, at home,
on holiday, in the club, be-
hind the wheel, in front
of the computer - what is
the one accessory that is
a must for all these activi-
ties and occasions? Why,
sunglasses of course! And
where do we get them? Why, Spaseebo of course! Here
you can choose from the largest range of shades: Rus-
sian wooden shades Woodsun, Woodwedo, Woodeez,
as well as rare European brands like Alain Mikli, Triwa,
Thierry Mugler, Oscar Magnuson and the classical Ray
Bans and Vannis. Oh and lets not forget about the snazzy
Matsudas from Japan. You can order them all online.
Spaseebo’s show room is centrally located near Chistye
Prudy metro station and is open from 10:00 until 20:00.
Visa and Mastercard accepted.QD-2, Krivokolenny per.
12, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 499 372 02 17,
www.spaseebo.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A
54 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 55 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Expat & Lifestyle Expat & Lifestyle
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
ATLANTIC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499
745 62 61.
QSkolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7) 968
651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru.
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com.
LITTLE ANGELS
QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, ofce 12, MProf-
soyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru.
MONTESSORI SCHOOL
QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A
P’TIT CREF
QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com.
THE ANGLO-AMERICAN SCHOOL OF MOSCOW
QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88,
www.aas.ru.
THE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF MOSCOW
QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499
922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.
CULTURAL & EDUCATIONAL
CENTRES
The foreign cultural and educational centres in Moscow are
organising many activities for Russians and foreigners. Just
check their websites for upcoming events. The epicentre
is the VGBIL building in the city centre, near Taganskaya
metro, the Library for Foreign Literature. Most of the inter-
national centres are located there.
BRITISH COUNCIL
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open
13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
CANADIAN CENTRE
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd foor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
GOETHE INSTITUTE/DAAD
QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7)
495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/
deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
INSTITUT FRANÇAIS
QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/
russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00.
NESO RUSSIA
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd foor, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open
14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
THE AMERICAN CENTER IN MOSCOW
QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat
11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.
EXPAT CONTACTS
AIESEC
Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org.
AMERICAN WOMEN’S ORGANISATION
Qwww.awomoscow.org.
ASSOCIAZIONE SIGNORE ITALIANE A MOSCA
(ITALIAN WOMEN’S CLUB)
[email protected]
AUSTRALIAN AND NEW ZEALAND SOCIAL
GROUP (AUSKI)
Qwww.gdaymoscow.com.
BRITISH WOMEN’S CLUB
Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk.
ENGLISH LANGUAGE EVENINGS (ELE)
Qwww.ELEMoscow.net.
EXPAT FOOTBALL LEAGUE
Qwww.moscowfootball.com.
EXPATINRUSSIA
Qwww.expatinrussia.com.
INTERNATIONAL WOMEN’S CLUB
Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru.
INTERNATIONS
Qwww.internations.org.
MOSCOU ACCUEIL (FRENCH WOMEN’S CLUB)
Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org.
MOSCOW HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
Qwww.moscowh3.com.
MOSCOW INTERNATIONAL CHOIR
Qwww.moscow-international-choir.com.
MOSKULTINFO (GERMAN-LANGUAGE COM-
MUNITY NEWSLETTER)
Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com.
NEDERLANDSE CLUB MOSKOU (DE TULPEN)
Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub.
ROTARY CLUB MOSCOW INTERNATIONAL
Qwww.rcmi.ru.
SWEA (SWEDISH WOMEN’S EDUCATIONAL
ASSOCIATION)
Qwww.swea.org/moskva.
LEARN RUSSIAN AT THE
LIDEN & DENZ
Dictionary for expats:
Семь пятниц на неделе – Sem pyatnits na nedele
In Russian, this translates literally as ‘seven Fridays in a
week’. “Seven Fridays?” you say, “that sounds perfect –
I never have to face another Monday morning!” How-
ever, if a Russian friend says to you, with a sigh, or a
roll of the eyes, “cемь пятниц на неделе”, they are not
wishing you a week of Friday nights! In fact, the phrase
is equivalent to the English idiom ‘rain at seven, fine at
eleven.’ When you hear this, you are being scolded for
changing your mind every five minutes, and generally
being as fickle as they come.
QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181,
MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www.
lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
THE ENGLISH
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL
English day school for kids aged 3 all the way up to 18.
They follow the English curriculum and offer IGCSEs and
A-levels and preparation for studying in the UK. The
main focus of the school is on languages, art, music, IT
and sport. The school works hard towards organising
engaging after-school activities too like drama clubs
and school trips. There is also a second primary school
(ages 3-12) located in west Moscow at Molodogvar-
deyskaya ul. 9, metro Kuntsevskaya and a third school
(ages 3-11) located at ul. Lobachevskogo 14, metro Pr.
Vernadskogo.QZeleny pr. 66a, MNovogireevo, tel.
(+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com.
INTERNATIONS
InterNations is the biggest global networking site for
expats of various nationalities and their family members
with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide.
By becoming a member you gain access to the online
social network were you can connect with other expats,
browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats
and interact with people who may have the same inter-
ests. www.internations.org.
U vas est visitka? –
Do you have a business card?
56 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 57 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Expat & Lifestyle Expat & Lifestyle
MOSCOW CHORAL SYNAGOGUE
QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay
Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru.
MOSCOW CONGREGATION FOR PROGRESSIVE
JUDAISM
QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7)
495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru.
SEVENTH-DAY ADVENTIST CHURCH
QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7)
499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru.
MOSCOW PROTESTANT CHAPLAINCY
QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8,
MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org.
ST. ANDREW’S ANGLICAN CHURCH
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org.
ST. ELISABETHGEMEINDE
QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadna-
ya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de.
SYNAGOGUE NA BOLSHOY BRONNOY
QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru.
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL OF THE IMMACULATE
CONCEPTION
QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopres-
nenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru.
EVANGELICAL-LUTHERAN ST. PETER-AND-
PAUL’S CATHEDRAL
QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru.
HISTORICAL MOSCOW MOSQUE
QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznets-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open
12:00 - 00:30.
INTERNATIONAL CHRISTIAN FELLOWSHIP
QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd foor (Library of For-
eign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48
01, www.icfmoscow.org.
MOSCOW BUDDHIST CENTRE
QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code
35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.
mantra.ru/en. Open 18:00 - 23:00.
ANNUAL WINTER BAZAAR
OF THE INTERNATIONAL
WOMEN´S CLUB
OF MOSCOW
The International
Women’s Club Mos-
cow cordially invites
you to join them
at one of their big
annual events, the
IWC Winter Bazaar!
Explore the diverse
stands and discover
some exotic holiday
gifts as well as nostalgic goodies from home. Expe-
rience the diversity of different cultures. Enjoy the
atmosphere of classy, multinational surroundings.
Take a stroll through the warm and fragrant lanes
of their bazaar and let yourself get carried away by
the awaiting program. For all these great opportuni-
ties the IWC Winter Bazaar is worth a visit! It will be
held on Saturday the 29th of November 2014 from
10am to 4pm at the Radisson Slavyanskaya Ho-
tel located on 2 Europe Square. (Metro: Kievskaya)
Entrance fee: 200Rbl. For further information go to:
www.iwcmoscow.ru.
THE EXPAT EXPERIENCE
Hello everybody, I’m Dominique Nicolas Godat! I was born
in Bern, Switzerland on September 18, 1958. Growing up,
my family was quite big: my Swiss German mother, my
French speaking father and my four siblings. Maybe it’s
a bit of cliché in Switzerland but nonetheless I attended
the Hotel School in Lausanne with practical training in the
kitchen, service and front office. After graduating I went
straight on to get some work experience back home in
Switzerland at the Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne. Then I
decided to try my skills out in other cities and countries
because lets face it, international experience is just so en-
riching! So far life has taken me to Dubai, New York (The
Pierre Hotel) and St. Moritz (Kulm Hotel as GM for 11 years).
To top it all off, I am now working at the Metropol Moscow
with the unique challenge of renovating this landmark
building and historic jewel of Russia.
What makes the Metropol Hotel unique in the world?
For one thing it’s a monument to Russian history, it’s some
truly authentic for Russia. The architecture and interior de-
sign are done in the Art Nouveau style so typical of pre-
Revolutionary Moscow, when the capital of the Tsarist Em-
pire had been transferred to Saint Petersburg. The people
working here right now and the vision of the owner aim to
reconstruct that romantic atmosphere from the turn of the
century when a wealthy middle-class was seeking its own
cultural expression that was different to the traditional ec-
lectic historicism at the time.
How do you spend your free time in Moscow and
what is your favorite place to go on the weekend? I
love Gorky Park because every day there’s something dif-
ferent – this park just doesn’t want to stand still! There’s
truly something for everyone there, ranging from fine art
master classes to samba sessions that get the whole park
dancing and twirling. And then right across the Krymsky
Bridge there’s Sculpture Park in Muzeon, where lots of relics
from the Communist times have been transported so I feel
like I’m traveling in time each time I’m there. I also really like
the classy restaurants in the of Bolshoi Theatre area as well
as the more funky and youthful ones in the winding alleys
just off Tverskaya street.
What do you like best about working in Russia? In
short: the opportunities which are still open to explore
and conquer as it’s such a young and blossoming city in
many ways (let’s not forget that Russia as a country only
started opening up to new thoughts and ideas just two
decades ago). And if slightly longer: this openness to new
ideas brings with itself a certain thirst for life and to catch
up with the West. So when a trend finally reaches Moscow,
the young and increasingly sophisticated educated ur-
banites like to take that trend, add a Russian twist to it and
take it further than anyone has ever done. Moscow doesn’t
want to be on the back seat of world culture anymore, it
wants to start driving it.
Is proud to present
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MOVING AND RELOCATIONS
AGS FROESCH RUSSIA
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skaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 99 61, www.agsfroesch.com.
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796 93 25, www.alliedpickfords.ru.
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QOtkrytoye shosse 48a, 3rd foor, MUlitsa Podbelsk-
ogo, tel. +7 (495) 411 96 20, www.corstjens.com. Open
09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. N
EOLIA
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relocation.ru. Open 9:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
MOVE ONE RELOCATION
QC-7, Ul. Krymsky val 3, bldg. 2, of. 503, MOktyab-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 01 64, www.moveoneinc.com.
Moscow is one of the most popular
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If you would like your expat group to
be featured here, just drop us a line at
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58 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 59 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Maps Expat & Lifestyle
© Студия Артемия Лебедева
DECIPHERING RUSSIAN
NAMES
Ever wondered how Natalia and Natasha can be the same
person, yet Alexander and Alexey are not? Is Valery really
a man’s name? Which way around do Russians write their
name and what on earth is a patronymic anyway! To make
life a little easier, here’s a brief guide to Russian names. In
western countries, we have a first name and a surname
(with perhaps one or more middle names). Russians have
a first name, a patronymic name and a surname. Fortu-
nately for newcomers, there are around thirty first names
(called ‘imya’ in Russian) each for males and females which
account for approximately eighty percent of the popula-
tion in Russia. A list of the most common ones – as well
as the shortened versions – is given below. A patronymic
name (called ‘otchestvo’ in Russian) is basically the person’s
father’s first name with ‘ovich’ (or sometimes ‘evich’) added
for males, and ‘ovna’ (or sometimes ‘evna’) for females.
Therefore Anton, whose father is called Konstantin would
be Anton Konstantinovich, and Tatiana whose father is An-
drey would be Tatiana Andreyevna. The patronymic name
is used in formal documents, as well as when addressing
older/more senior people. However, younger people (es-
pecially those who consider themselves more interna-
tional) often omit the patronymic in everyday situations,
such as on business cards. Many surnames (called ‘familiya’
in Russian) in Russia end in ‘ov’ or ‘skiy’ or ‘in’ for men, and
‘ova’ or ‘skaya’ or ‘ina’ for women – also common is ‘ich’, ‘ko’
and ‘iuk’, especially for people originally of Ukrainian and
Belarusian descent. Names of Armenian origin tend to end
in ‘yan’ and Georgian in either ‘vili’ or adze’ (for either sex). In
formal documents such as passports, Russians will begin
with their surname, followed by their first name and then
patronymic. However, on business cards or CVs they usual-
ly state their first name and then their surname in this order
– but not always! Do be aware that there is no perfect way
to transliterate Cyrillic into Latin, so often you will come
across several spellings of the same name, such as Sergei
or Sergey, Ludmila or Lioudmila and Evgeny or Yevgeniy.
You will sometimes find that a few Russians have ‘western-
ised’ their names, especially if they have lived and worked
abroad. Examples include Helen for Elena, Julia for Yulia
and Eugene for Evgeniy. Both Alexander and Alexey often
shorten to just Alex. Some pronunciation tips: The letter ‘e’
in Russian is generally pronounced as ‘yeh’, so that Elena is
in fact pronounced Yelyena and Evgeniy is Yevgeniy. Also,
Unstressed ‘o’ is pronounced as ‘a’ (especially in Moscow) so
Oleg would called himself ‘Ah-lyeg’. Here are some of the
most common first names and (where relevant) the more
familiar version that you may encounter - our advice would
be to stick to the full form unless introduced, or otherwise
asked to use the more familiar form (as you would do in
English)!
Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc
Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com
MALE
Full Shortened
Alexander Sasha, Shura, Sanya
Artyom Tyoma
Boris Borya
Dmitriy Dima/Mitya
Evgeniy Zhenya
Fyodor Fedya
Gennady Gena
Georgiy/Igor Gosha
Ivan Vanya
Konstantin Kostya
Leonid Leonya
Pavel Pasha
Piotr Petya
Vasily Vasya
Stanislav Stas
Valentin Valya
Vitaly Vitya
Vladimir Volodya, Vova
Yuri Yura
FEMALE
Full Shortened
Alexandra Sasha
Anastasia Nastia
Daria Dasha
Ekaterina Katya
Elizaveta Liza
Galina Galya
Irina Ira
Kseniya Ksyusha
Ludmila Lyuda/Mila
Lyubov Lyuba
Margarita Rita
Maria Masha
Nadezhda Nadya
Polina Polya
Sofiya Sonya
Tamara Toma
Tatiana Tania
Valentina Valya
Viktoria Vika
60 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 61 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Maps Maps
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K
Y
P
E
R
.
SEREBRYANICHESKAYA NAB.
S
O
L
Y
A
N
K
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
R
O
S
A
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
S
T
Y
IN
S
K
Y
P
R
.
VORONTSOVO POLE Y
A
U
Z
S
K
Y
B
U
L
.
P
O
T
A
P
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
T
E
L
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
V
E
R
K
H
N
Y
A
Y
A
R
A
D
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L.
B
O
L
. T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
BOL. TATARSKY PER.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
2
-Y
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
OZERKOVSKY PER.
RUNOVSKY PER.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
STARY TOLM
ACHEVSKY PER.
B
A
K
H
R
U
S
H
IN
A
U
L
.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
K
H
O
L
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
O
V
O
K
U
Z
N
E
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
T
R
O
C
H
E
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
U
B
I N
I N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
3
-Y
M
O
N
E
T
C
H
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
5-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
PAVELETSKAYAPL.
STREMYANNY PER.
VALOVAYA UL.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
S
E
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
ST
A
R
A
Y
A
B
A
SM
A
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L.
ALEXANDRA SO
LZHENITSINA UL.
M
A
R
K
S
IS
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
N
IS
L
A
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
V
O
R
O
N
T
S
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
3-Y KRU
TITSKY PER.
K
R
U
T
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
N
O
V
O
S
P
A
S
S
K
Y
P
R
.
B
O
B
RO
V
PER.
GROKHOLSKY PER.
M
Y
A
S
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
L
U
B
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
MAROSEYKA UL.
MOSKVORETSKAYA NAB.
RAUSHSKAYA NAB.
K
R
IV
O
K
O
L
E
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
SADOVNICHESKAYA UL.
KLIMENTOVSKY PER.
OVCHINNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
E
R
P
U
K
H
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. KISELNY PER.
BO
L. SU
KHAREVKAYA PL.
BOL. SUKHAREVSKY PER.
BOL. GOLOVIN PER.
KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER.
PUSHKAREV PER.
LUKOV PER. ASHCHEULOV PER.
SELIVERSTOV PER.
PROSVIRIN PER.
DAEV PER.
SRETENSKY TUPIK
D
E
L
E
G
A
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
DUROVA UL.
G
IL
Y
A
R
O
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
K
O
P
T
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
. (
1
Y
)
K
O
S
T
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
ZITSK
Y P
E
R
.
LAVRSKY PER.
MAL. KARETNY PER.
MAL. SUKHAREVSKAYA PL.
O
L
Y
M
P
IY
S
K
Y
P
R
.
PETROVSKY BUL.
P
E
TR
O
V
SK
Y P
E
R
.
POSLEDNY PER.
P
R
O
S
P
E
K
T
M
IR
A
SADOVAYA-KARETNAYA UL.
S
A
M
O
T
Y
O
C
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
H
C
H
E
P
K
IN
A
U
L
.
S
R
E
T
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
SRETENSKY BUL.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
S
V
E
T
N
O
Y
B
U
L
.
VARSONOFYEVSKY PER.
B
O
L. P
A
LA
SH
E
V
S
K
Y
PE
R
.
M
A
L. KOZIKHINSKY P
E
R
.
B
O
G
O
Y
A
V
L
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BRODNIKOV PER.
MANEZHNAYA
PL.
G
O
L
I K
O
V
S
K
Y

PER.
V
A
S
N
E
T
S
O
V
A
PER.
ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL.
KHO
KHLO
VSKY
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
A
B
O
R
O
D
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KRASN
AYA PRESN
YA U
L.
K
U
TU
ZO
V
SK
Y
P
R
.
T
A
R
A
S
A
S
H
E
V
C
H
E
N
K
O
N
A
B
.
BOL. DOROGOM
ILOVSKAYA UL.
BURDENKO UL.
KIEVSKAYA UL.
P
L
Y
U
S
H
C
H
IK
H
A
U
L
.
SMOLENSKAYA UL.
KRASNOPRESNENSKA
YA
N
A
B
.
2-YA BORODINS
KAYA UL.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
LEN
IN
G
RA
D
SKY PR.
K
R
A
S
N
O
P
R
O
L
E
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
U
SH
K
IN
SK
A
Y
A
P
L.
SADOVAYA-TRIUM
FALNAYA UL.
STRA
STN
O
Y BU
L.
B
O
L
. K
IS
L
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
L
E
O
N
T
IE
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
VOZDVIZHENKA UL.
V
O
Z
N
E
S
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
ZN
AM
EN
KA U
L.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
1
9
0
5
G
O
D
A
U
L
.
BOL. TISHINSKY PER.
E
R
M
O
L
A
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
G
O
R
O
KHOVSKY PER.
2-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
SREDNY TISHINSKY PER.
U
L
. Y
U
L
IU
S
A
F
U
C
H
IK
A
U
L
. G
A
S
H
E
K
A
ORUZHEINY PER.
M
A
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
R
Y
U
S
O
V
P
E
R
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
M
A
L
. G
N
E
Z
D
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
KAM
ERG
ERSKY PER.
G
EO
R
G
IEV
SK
Y P
ER
.
V
E
T
O
S
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. C
H
E
R
K
A
S
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
USPENSKY PER.
1-Y KOLOBOVSKY PER
RAKHMANOVSKY PER.
BOL. SERGIEVSKY PER.
PER. PECHATNIKOV
SREDNY KARETNY PER.
TROITSKAYA UL.
M
E
S
H
C
H
A
N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
MAL. GOLOVIN PER.
RYBNIKOV PER.
U
L
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
YA
SN
ITSK
A
Y U
L.
M
A
L
. K
H
A
R
IT
O
N
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
LT
S
O
PER. O
G
O
RO
D
N
AYA
SLO
BO
D
A
U
L
. M
A
L
. L
U
B
Y
A
N
K
A
S
V
E
R
C
H
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Z
L
A
T
O
U
S
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
IT
A
Y
G
O
R
O
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
O
R
L
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
L
IK
H
O
V
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.
U
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
R
Y
A
D
1-Y SAMOTECHNY PER.
4
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
YA
-YA
M
S
K
A
YA
U
L.
UL. KLIMASHKINA
RASTORGUEV PER.
V
O
L
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
O
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
L. ZA
M
O
R
E
N
O
V
A
B
O
L. PR
ED
TECH
EN
SKY PER
.
KARM
AN
ITSKY PER.
RUZHEINY PER.
SE
C
H
E
N
O
V
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
U
L
. B
O
L
. P
O
LY
A
N
K
A
UL. ZATSEPA
VISH
N
YAKO
VSKY PER.
SH
LYU
ZO
VAYA
N
A
B.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
U
L
.
Y
A
U
Z
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KO
M
ISSARIATSKY PER.
NOVOSPASSKY PER.
U
L. G
V
O
Z
D
E
V
A
N
A
R
O
D
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
5-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
TAGANSKAYA UL.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
LT
S
O
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
L
T
S
O
U
L
. B
O
L
S
H
IE
K
A
M
E
N
S
H
C
H
IK
I
KOZHEVNICHESKAYA UL.
1
-Y
Z
A
C
H
A
T
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
F
R
U
N
Z
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
YA
N
A
B
.
ROCHDELSKAYA UL.
S
TA
R
O
P
IM
E
N
O
VSKY PER.
D
E
G
T
YA
RNY PER.
N
A
S
TA
SY
IN
SKY PER.
1-Y VOLKONSKY PER.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
A
S
M
A
N
N
Y PER
.
A
R
K
H
A
N
G
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
O
G
L
IN
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
SKO
R
N
YA
ZH
N
Y
P
E
R
.
PROTOCHNY PER.
BOL. TOLMACHEVSKY PER.
M
A
L
. V
L
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
N
EO
PA
LIM
O
VSKY PER.
2-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
2
8
2
3
4
0
2
0
1
4
8
1
6
1
2
6
6
12
26
2
16
20
28
31
8
2
7
1
1
0
2
0
1
4
4
4
23 21
25
48
38
28
39
30
28
2
8
2
7
1
9
1
3
1
3
1
3
9
2
2
10
4
22
22
15
9
8
4
10
9
22 4
10
1 1
5
1
2 1
1
3
4
1
2
1
5
1
2
8
1
5
1
3
1
1
4
9
1
1
1
5
3
1
3
1
0
4
7
2
1
2
9
1
1
4
4
0
4
9
3
7
2
7
2
5
1
7
4
8
5
3
1
1
6
3
5 3
8
2
8
1
8
1
2 3
4
8
7
2
6
-8
2
5
10-12
22
11
1
5
3
3
2
9
4
1
2
4
1
6
2
5
1
0
17 11
2
2
3 2
2
32
36
22
4
7
7
7
19
1
9
9
1
9
2
2
22
3
6
8
1
2
3
3
2
0
3
9
2
3
2
4
6
1
9
2
2
52
43
9
4
4
7
7
14
8
1
1
5
5
10
4
1
6
1
0
32
5
4
9
6
3
2
2
7
5
4
36
6
5
18 10
10 14
10
8
1
4
1
3
2
9
6
1
2
2
2
1
1
8
9
2
0
3
5
4
4
1
4
2
1
2
9
2
0
3
0 3
9
4
2
1
7
1
9
1
4 1
7
3
1
3
0
3
7
7
5
7
1
7
1
3
8
3
4
3
7
4
7
2
4
3
7
6
2
5 2
0 2
2
2
4
2
83
54
6
3
0
2
7
3
5
1
5
4
2
4
5
3
3
1
1
1
2
8
9
8
6
5
4
15
12
23
25
13
11
20
16
18
11
10
1
5
10
19
35
43
30
10 5
5
2
5
2
8
3
6
5
4
6
7
7
1
4
8
4
9
6
5
3
4
4
1
5
3
6
3
5
8
5
6
3
3
1
3
6
2
2
2
6
4
2
4 16
14
4
3 5
7
3
2
6
16
4
16
19
10
4
6
4
7
2
5
4
4
1
2
4
6
6
3
2
3
9
4
3
2
9
2
4
2
5
5
5
6
6
4
2
8
2
3
9
13
16
9
1
1
2
2
21
19
13
8
4
5
1
8
1
2
5
9
1
5
10
18
30
3
3
36
10
5
6
16
13
27
26
18
13
6
3
1
8
1
4
15
3
13
14 24
37
16
24
1
2
8
44
2
6
4
2
12
4
2
7
1
8
3
5
5 15
10
1
0
2
8
3
8
9
1
7
1
9
7
1
3
3
3
3
1
1
3
3
2
2
9
2
1
1
0
5
2
8
1
4
2
6
2
5
2
8
2
4
24
26
1
6
12
2
3
2
6
6
5
5
5
5
7
5
3
3
3
2
1
2
3
3
3
9
9
5
5
5
5
9
5
4
5
15
1
5
1
4
27
5
9
15
5
5
5
7
3
5
3
5
3
2
4
0
4
1
4
7
13
5
6
4
2
13
2
8
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
11
13
8
1
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O
T
E
L
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
V
E
R
K
H
N
Y
A
Y
A
R
A
D
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L.
B
O
L
. T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
BOL. TATARSKY PER.
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
2
-Y
G
O
N
C
H
A
R
N
Y
P
E
R
.
1-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
OZERKOVSKY PER.
RUNOVSKY PER.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
STARY TOLM
ACHEVSKY PER.
B
A
K
H
R
U
S
H
IN
A
U
L
.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
K
H
O
L
M
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
N
O
V
O
K
U
Z
N
E
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
O
Z
E
R
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
T
A
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
T
R
O
C
H
E
N
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
D
U
B
I N
I N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
2-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
3
-Y
M
O
N
E
T
C
H
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
5-Y MONETCHIKOVSKY PER.
1-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
PAVELETSKAYAPL.
STREMYANNY PER.
VALOVAYA UL.
N
IZ
H
N
A
Y
A
K
R
A
S
N
O
S
E
L
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
ST
A
R
A
Y
A
B
A
SM
A
N
N
A
Y
A
U
L.
ALEXANDRA SO
LZHENITSINA UL.
M
A
R
K
S
IS
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
T
A
N
IS
L
A
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
V
O
R
O
N
T
S
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
3-Y KRU
TITSKY PER.
K
R
U
T
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
N
O
V
O
S
P
A
S
S
K
Y
P
R
.
B
O
B
RO
V
PER.
GROKHOLSKY PER.
M
Y
A
S
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
L
U
B
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
R
O
E
Z
D
MAROSEYKA UL.
MOSKVORETSKAYA NAB.
RAUSHSKAYA NAB.
K
R
IV
O
K
O
L
E
N
N
Y
P
E
R
.
SADOVNICHESKAYA UL.
KLIMENTOVSKY PER.
OVCHINNIKOVSKAYA NAB.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
Y
A
T
N
IT
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. S
E
R
P
U
K
H
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
O
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
P
E
R
.
BOL. KISELNY PER.
BO
L. SU
KHAREVKAYA PL.
BOL. SUKHAREVSKY PER.
BOL. GOLOVIN PER.
KOLOKOLYNIKOV PER.
PUSHKAREV PER.
LUKOV PER. ASHCHEULOV PER.
SELIVERSTOV PER.
PROSVIRIN PER.
DAEV PER.
SRETENSKY TUPIK
D
E
L
E
G
A
T
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
DUROVA UL.
G
IL
Y
A
R
O
V
S
K
O
G
O
U
L
.
K
O
P
T
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
. (
1
Y
)
K
O
S
T
Y
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
O
ZITSK
Y P
E
R
.
LAVRSKY PER.
MAL. KARETNY PER.
MAL. SUKHAREVSKAYA PL.
O
L
Y
M
P
IY
S
K
Y
P
R
.
PETROVSKY BUL.
P
E
TR
O
V
SK
Y P
E
R
.
POSLEDNY PER.
P
R
O
S
P
E
K
T
M
IR
A
SADOVAYA-KARETNAYA UL.
S
A
M
O
T
Y
O
C
H
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
S
H
C
H
E
P
K
IN
A
U
L
.
S
R
E
T
E
N
K
A
U
L
.
SRETENSKY BUL.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
R
U
B
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
T
S
V
E
T
N
O
Y
B
U
L
.
VARSONOFYEVSKY PER.
B
O
L. P
A
LA
SH
E
V
S
K
Y
PE
R
.
M
A
L. KOZIKHINSKY P
E
R
.
B
O
G
O
Y
A
V
L
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
BRODNIKOV PER.
MANEZHNAYA
PL.
G
O
L
I K
O
V
S
K
Y

PER.
V
A
S
N
E
T
S
O
V
A
PER.
ROZHDESTVENSKY BUL.
KHO
KHLO
VSKY
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
A
B
O
R
O
D
IN
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
K
O
N
Y
U
S
H
K
O
V
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KRASN
AYA PRESN
YA U
L.
K
U
TU
ZO
V
SK
Y
P
R
.
T
A
R
A
S
A
S
H
E
V
C
H
E
N
K
O
N
A
B
.
BOL. DOROGOM
ILOVSKAYA UL.
BURDENKO UL.
KIEVSKAYA UL.
P
L
Y
U
S
H
C
H
IK
H
A
U
L
.
SMOLENSKAYA UL.
KRASNOPRESNENSKA
YA
N
A
B
.
2-YA BORODINS
KAYA UL.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
LEN
IN
G
RA
D
SKY PR.
K
R
A
S
N
O
P
R
O
L
E
T
A
R
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
P
U
SH
K
IN
SK
A
Y
A
P
L.
SADOVAYA-TRIUM
FALNAYA UL.
STRA
STN
O
Y BU
L.
B
O
L
. K
IS
L
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
L
E
O
N
T
IE
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
VOZDVIZHENKA UL.
V
O
Z
N
E
S
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
ZN
AM
EN
KA U
L.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
1
9
0
5
G
O
D
A
U
L
.
BOL. TISHINSKY PER.
E
R
M
O
L
A
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
G
O
R
O
KHOVSKY PER.
2-Y NOVOKUZNETSKY PER.
SREDNY TISHINSKY PER.
U
L
. Y
U
L
IU
S
A
F
U
C
H
IK
A
U
L
. G
A
S
H
E
K
A
ORUZHEINY PER.
M
A
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
R
Y
U
S
O
V
P
E
R
.
T
V
E
R
S
K
O
Y
B
U
L
.
M
A
L
. G
N
E
Z
D
IK
O
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
KAM
ERG
ERSKY PER.
G
EO
R
G
IEV
SK
Y P
ER
.
V
E
T
O
S
H
N
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. C
H
E
R
K
A
S
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
USPENSKY PER.
1-Y KOLOBOVSKY PER
RAKHMANOVSKY PER.
BOL. SERGIEVSKY PER.
PER. PECHATNIKOV
SREDNY KARETNY PER.
TROITSKAYA UL.
M
E
S
H
C
H
A
N
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
MAL. GOLOVIN PER.
RYBNIKOV PER.
U
L
A
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
M
YA
SN
ITSK
A
Y U
L.
M
A
L
. K
H
A
R
IT
O
N
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
LT
S
O
PER. O
G
O
RO
D
N
AYA
SLO
BO
D
A
U
L
. M
A
L
. L
U
B
Y
A
N
K
A
S
V
E
R
C
H
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. Z
L
A
T
O
U
S
T
IN
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
K
IT
A
Y
G
O
R
O
D
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
O
R
L
IK
O
V
P
E
R
.
L
IK
H
O
V
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
SADOVO-SAMOTECHNAYA UL.
U
L
. K
A
R
E
T
N
Y
R
Y
A
D
1-Y SAMOTECHNY PER.
4
-YA
T
V
E
R
S
K
A
YA
-YA
M
S
K
A
YA
U
L.
UL. KLIMASHKINA
RASTORGUEV PER.
V
O
L
K
O
V
P
E
R
.
N
O
V
O
P
R
E
S
N
E
N
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
U
L. ZA
M
O
R
E
N
O
V
A
B
O
L. PR
ED
TECH
EN
SKY PER
.
KARM
AN
ITSKY PER.
RUZHEINY PER.
SE
C
H
E
N
O
V
SK
Y
P
E
R
.
SADOVOE KOLTSO
U
L
. B
O
L
. P
O
LY
A
N
K
A
UL. ZATSEPA
VISH
N
YAKO
VSKY PER.
SH
LYU
ZO
VAYA
N
A
B.
S
A
D
O
V
N
IC
H
E
S
K
A
Y
U
L
.
Y
A
U
Z
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
KO
M
ISSARIATSKY PER.
NOVOSPASSKY PER.
U
L. G
V
O
Z
D
E
V
A
N
A
R
O
D
N
A
Y
A
U
L
.
5-Y KOTELNICHESKY PER.
TAGANSKAYA UL.
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
LT
S
O
S
A
D
O
V
O
E
K
O
L
T
S
O
U
L
. B
O
L
S
H
IE
K
A
M
E
N
S
H
C
H
IK
I
KOZHEVNICHESKAYA UL.
1
-Y
Z
A
C
H
A
T
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
F
R
U
N
Z
E
N
S
K
A
Y
A
N
A
B
.
P
R
E
C
H
IS
T
E
N
S
K
A
YA
N
A
B
.
ROCHDELSKAYA UL.
S
TA
R
O
P
IM
E
N
O
VSKY PER.
D
E
G
T
YA
RNY PER.
N
A
S
TA
SY
IN
SKY PER.
1-Y VOLKONSKY PER.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
S
K
A
Y
A
U
L
.
B
A
S
M
A
N
N
Y PER
.
A
R
K
H
A
N
G
E
L
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. S
P
A
S
O
G
L
IN
IS
H
C
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
SKO
R
N
YA
ZH
N
Y
P
E
R
.
PROTOCHNY PER.
BOL. TOLMACHEVSKY PER.
M
A
L
. V
L
A
S
Y
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
B
O
L
. R
Z
H
E
V
S
K
Y
P
E
R
.
1
-Y
N
EO
PA
LIM
O
VSKY PER.
2-Y SPASONALIVKOVSKY PER.
2
8
2
3
4
0
2
0
1
4
8
1
6
1
2
6
6
12
26
2
16
20
28
31
8
2
7
1
1
0
2
0
1
4
4
4
23 21
25
48
38
28
39
30
28
2
8
2
7
1
9
1
3
1
3
1
3
9
2
2
10
4
22
22
15
9
8
4
10
9
22 4
10
1 1
5
1
2 1
1
3
4
1
2
1
5
1
2
8
1
5
1
3
1
1
4
9
1
1
1
5
3
1
3
1
0
4
7
2
1
2
9
1
1
4
4
0
4
9
3
7
2
7
2
5
1
7
4
8
5
3
1
1
6
3
5 3
8
2
8
1
8
1
2 3
4
8
7
2
6
-8
2
5
10-12
22
11
1
5
3
3
2
9
4
1
2
4
1
6
2
5
1
0
17 11
2
2
3 2
2
32
36
22
4
7
7
7
19
1
9
9
1
9
2
2
22
3
6
8
1
2
3
3
2
0
3
9
2
3
2
4
6
1
9
2
2
52
43
9
4
4
7
7
14
8
1
1
5
5
10
4
1
6
1
0
32
5
4
9
6
3
2
2
7
5
4
36
6
5
18 10
10 14
10
8
1
4
1
3
2
9
6
1
2
2
2
1
1
8
9
2
0
3
5
4
4
1
4
2
1
2
9
2
0
3
0 3
9
4
2
1
7
1
9
1
4 1
7
3
1
3
0
3
7
7
5
7
1
7
1
3
8
3
4
3
7
4
7
2
4
3
7
6
2
5 2
0 2
2
2
4
2
83
54
6
3
0
2
7
3
5
1
5
4
2
4
5
3
3
1
1
1
2
8
9
8
6
5
4
15
12
23
25
13
11
20
16
18
11
10
1
5
10
19
35
43
30
10 5
5
2
5
2
8
3
6
5
4
6
7
7
1
4
8
4
9
6
5
3
4
4
1
5
3
6
3
5
8
5
6
3
3
1
3
6
2
2
2
6
4
2
4 16
14
4
3 5
7
3
2
6
16
4
16
19
10
4
6
4
7
2
5
4
4
1
2
4
6
6
3
2
3
9
4
3
2
9
2
4
2
5
5
5
6
6
4
2
8
2
3
9
13
16
9
1
1
2
2
21
19
13
8
4
5
1
8
1
2
5
9
1
5
10
18
30
3
3
36
10
5
6
16
13
27
26
18
13
6
3
1
8
1
4
15
3
13
14 24
37
16
24
1
2
8
44
2
6
4
2
12
4
2
7
1
8
3
5
5 15
10
1
0
2
8
3
8
9
1
7
1
9
7
1
3
3
3
3
1
1
3
3
2
2
9
2
1
1
0
5
2
8
1
4
2
6
2
5
2
8
2
4
24
26
1
6
12
2
3
2
6
6
5
5
5
5
7
5
3
3
3
2
1
2
3
3
3
9
9
5
5
5
5
9
5
4
5
15
1
5
1
4
27
5
9
15
5
5
5
7
3
5
3
5
3
2
4
0
4
1
4
7
13
5
6
4
2
13
2
8
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
11
13
8
1
8
1
1
1
3
6
6
1
2
12
12
1
4
1
0
1
0
13
7
2
4
2
4
1
3
2
1
0
2
8
8
6
6
6
6
10
4
4
4
4
8
6
6
2
3
6
4
4
6
6
1
2 7
4
4
4
8
4
4
12
24
15
11
1
1
1
4
8
3
3
7
3
2
4
8
10
1
0
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PLOSHCHAD
REVOLUTSII
OKHOTNY
RYAD
ALEXANDROVSKY
SAD
BIBLIOTEKA
IMENI LENINA
BOROVITSKAYA
ARBATSKAYA
KRASNOPRESNENSKAYA
ULITSA
1905 GODA
BARRIKADNAYA
KROPOTKINSKAYA
POLYANKA
TRETYAKOVSKAYA
NOVOKUZNETSKAYA
TAGANSKAYA MARKSISTSKAYA
MARKSISTSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA
OKTYABRSKAYA DOBRYNINSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PAVELETSKAYA
PARK KULTURY
SMOLENSKAYA
KIEVSKAYA
TEATRALNAYA
LUBYANKA
KITAY GOROD
CHKALOVSKAYA
KURSKAYA
KOMSOMOLSKAYA
KRASNYE
VOROTA
SUKHAREVSKAYA
TURGENEVSKAYA
SRETENSKY
BULVAR
CHISTYE PRUDY
PROSPEKT MIRA
PUSHKINSKAYA
TVERSKAYA
CHEKHOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
MAYAKOVSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
BELORUSSKAYA
NOVOSLOBODSKAYA
TSVETNOY
BULVAR
TRUBNAYA
KITAY GOROD
LUBYANKA
KUZNETSKY MOST
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
R
M
O
S
C
O
W

R
I
V
E
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C
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W

R
I
V
E
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LENINGRADSKY
VOKZAL
YAROSLAVSKY
VOKZAL
KAZANSKY VOKZAL
KURSKIY
VOKZAL
PAVELETSKY
VOKZAL
KIEVSKY
VOKZAL
BELORUSSKY VOKZAL
GORKY
PARK
PIER
UKRAINA
HOTEL
PIER
NOVOARBATSKY
MOST
BORODINSKY
MOST
KRYMSKY
MOST
PATRIARSHY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KAMENNY
MOST
MALY
KAMENNY
MOST
LUZHKOV
MOST
BOLSHOY
ZAMOSKVORETSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
USTYINSKY
MOST
BOLSHOY
KRASNOKHOLMSKY
MOST
NOVOSPASSKY
MOST
1
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64 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com October - November 2014 65 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Street register
ST. ISAAC’S CATHEDRAL
QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second
Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
YUSUPOV PALACE
QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314
98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group
tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812 314
88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide 500Rbl.
Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business
and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few
days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window
on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city
easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty.
Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside
panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical ar-
chitecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than
enough to enjoy at any time of year.
SIGHTSEEING
ALEKSANDER NEVSKY MONASTERY
QF-3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra
Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru.
Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
CHURCH OF THE SAVIOUR ON THE SPILT
BLOOD
QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
KAZAN CATHEDRAL
QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314
46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily
services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
KUNSTKAMERA
QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admis-
sion 50 - 250Rbl.
PETER AND PAUL FORTRESS
QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The for-
tress is open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free.
All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
RUSSIAN MUSEUM
QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admis-
sion 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
St. Petersburg
LUXURY TRAINS
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private
train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Peters-
burg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel
experience. After being shown to your cabin you will
find your beds have already been made up with real
duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages
are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during
the trip you experience some problems you can call the
train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they
will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow
truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money.
Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomol-
skaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00.
For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online
at www.megapolis-te.ru
1905 Goda ul. A-1/2 Golutvinsky per. (1y) C-4 Maronovsky per. C-5 Sadovnicheskaya ul. D-3/4
Akademika Sakharova pr. D-1/2 Goncharnaya nab. E-4 Maroseyka ul. D-2/3 Sadovnichesky proezd D-3
Alexandra Nevskogo ul. А/B-1 Goncharnaya ul. E-4 Mashkova ul. E-2 Samotyochnaya ul. C-1
Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. E-4 Goncharny per. (2y) E-4 Merzlyakovsky per. B-3 Serebryanicheskaya nab. E-3
Apakova pr. C-4 Gorokhovsky per. E-2 Milyutinsky per. D-2 Shchepkina ul. D-1
Arbat ul. B-3 Granatny per. B-2 Miusskaya pl. B-1 Sivtsev Vrazhek per. B-3
Armyansky per. D-2 Grokholsky per. D-1 Mohovaya ul. C-3 Skatertny per. B-2/3
Bakhrushina ul. D-5 Gusyatnikov per. D-2 Molochny per. B-4 Smolensky bul. A-4
Balchug ul. D-3/4 Ilinka ul. C-3 Monetchikovsky per. (2y) D-5 Smolenskaya ul. A-4
Bernikovskaya nab. E-3 Ipatyevsky per. D-3 Monetchikovsky per. (3y) D-5 Sofiyskaya nab. C-3
Bersenevskaya nab. C-4 Kadashevskaya nab. C-4 Monetchikovsky per. (5y) D-5 Soymonovsky proezd B-4
Bobrov per. D-2 Kadashevsky per. (1y) C-4 Monetchikovsky per. (6y) D-5 Solyanka ul. D-3
Bogoyavlensky per. C/D-3 Kalanchevskaya ul. E-1 Moskvoretskaya nab. D-3 Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y) C-5
Bol. Afanasyevsky per. B-3/4 Kalashny per. B-3 Myasnitskaya ul. D-2 Spiridonovka ul. B-2
Bol. Balkansky per. D-1 Kazachy per. (1y) C-5 Mytnaya ul. C-5 Spiridonyevsky per. B-2
Bol. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Kazachy per. (2y) C-5 Neglinnaya ul. C-2 Sretenka ul. D-1
Bol. Dmitrovka ul. C-2 Kazakova ul. E-2 Nikitsky bul. B-3 Sretensky bul. C-1
Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. A-4 Kazansky per. C-5 Nikitsky per. C-2/3 Stanislavskogo ul. C-2
Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. A-1/2 Kazarmeny per. E-3 Nikoloyamskaya ul. E-3/4 Staraya pl. C-3
Bol. Karetny per. C-1 Khilkov per. B-4 Nikolskaya ul. C-2/3 Starokonyushenny per. B-3/4
Bol. Kazenny per. E-2 Khlebny per. B-3 Nikolsky per. D-3 Staromonetny per. C-4
Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. E-2 Khokhlovsky per. D/E-3 N. Krasnokholmskaya ul. E-4/5 Starosadsky per. D-2/3
Bol. Kiselny per. C/D-2 Khvostov per. (1y) C-5 N. Krasnoselskaya ul. E-1 Stary Tolmachevsky per. D-4
Bol. Kislovsky per. C-3 Kievskaya ul. A-4 Novaya Basmannaya ul. E-1 Stoleshnikov per. C-2
Bol. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Klimentovsky per. D-4 Novaya pl. D-2 Stolyarny per. A-2
Bol. Kozlovsky per. E-2 Kolpachny per. D-2/3 Novinsky bul. A-2/3 Strastnoy bul. C-1/2
Bol. Levshinsky per. B-4 Kompozitorskaya ul. A/B-3 Novokrymsky pr. B-5 Sushchevskaya ul. B-1
Bol. Lubyanka ul. D-2 Komsomolskaya pl. E-1 Novokuznetskaya ul. D-4/5 Sytinsky per. B-2
Bol. Molchanovka ul. B-3 Komsomolsky pr. F-6 Novokuznetsky per. (1y) D-5 Tarasa Shevchenko nab. A-3
Bol. Nikitskaya ul. B/C-3 Konyushkovskaya ul. A-2/3 Novokuznetsky per. (2y) D-5 Tatarskaya ul. D-5
Bol. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Koptelsky per. (1y) D-1 Novoryazanskaya ul. E-1 Teatralny proezd C-2
Bol. Palashevsky per. B-2 Korobeynikov per. B-4 Novy Arbat ul. A/B-3 Teterinsky per. E-4
Bol. Patriarshy per. B-2 Korovy Val ul. C-5 Obydensky per. (2y) B-4 Triumfalnaya pl. B-1
Bol. Polyanka ul. C-4/5 Kosmodamianskaya nab. D/E-4 Okhotny ryad ul. C-2/3 Trubnaya ul. C-1
Bol. Sadovaya ul. B-1/2 Kostyansky per. D-1 Olimpiysky pr. C-1 Trubnikovsky per. A/B-3
Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. C/D-5 Kotelnicheskaya nab. D/E-4 Ostozhenka ul. B-4/5 Tryokhprudny per. B-2
Bol. Spasskaya ul. E-1 Kotelnichesky per. (1y) D-4 Ovchinnikovskaya nab. D-4 Tsvetnoy bul. C-1
Bol. Staromonetny per. C-4 Kozitsky per. C-2 Ozerkovskaya nab. D-4 Tverskaya ul. B-1/2
Bol. Strochenovsky per. D-5 Krasina ul. A/B-1, B-2 Ozerkovsky per. D-4 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. A/B-1
Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. D-1 Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) C-3 Paveletskaya pl. D-5 Tverskoy bul. B -2
Bol. Sukharevsky per. D-1 Krasnaya presnya ul. A-2 Petrovka ul. C-2 Usacheva ul. F-6
Bol. Tatarskaya ul. D-4/5 Krasnopresnenskaya nab. A-3 Petrovsky bul. C-1/2 Ustyinsky pr. D-3/4
Bol. Tatarsky per. D-5 Krasnoproletarskaya ul. B-1 Petrovsky per. C-2 Valovaya ul. D-5
Bol. Tishinsky per. A-1 Krasnoprudnaya ul. E-1 Pyzhevsky per. C-4 Varsonofyevsky per. C/D-2
Bol. Vlasyevsky per. B-4 Kremlevskaya nab. C-3 Pl. Nikitskie Vorota B-2 Varvarka ul. C-3
Bol. Yakimanka ul. C-5 Krivokolenny per. D-2 Plotnikov per. B-3 Vasilyevsky spusk pl. D-3
Bol. Znamensky per. B-3/4 Kropotkinsky per. B-4 Plyushchikha ul. A-4 Vasilyevskaya ul. A/B-1
Bolotnaya nab. C-4 Krutitsky per. (3y) E-5 Podkolokolny per. E-3 Vasnetsova per. C-1
Bolotnaya pl. C-4 Krutitskaya nab. E-5 Podsosensky per. E-3 V. Radishchevskaya ul. E-4
Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) A-3/4 Krymskay nab. B-5 Pogorelsky per. C-5 V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul. E-3
Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) A-3 Krymsky proezd B-5 Pokrovka ul. D/E-2 Volhonka ul. C-3/4
Brestskaya ul. (1ya) A/B-1 Krymsky Val. B/C-5 Pokrovsky bul. E-3 Vorontsovo pole E-3
Brestskaya ul. (2ya) A/B-1 Kursovoy per. B/C-4 Pomerantsev per. B-4 Vorontsovskaya ul. E-4/5
Brodnikov per. C-4/5 Kutuzovsky pr. A-3 Posledny per. D-1 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-3
Butikovsky per. B-4 Kuznetsky most ul. C/D-2 Potapovsky per. D-2 Voznesensky per. B-2
Chayanova ul. B-1 Lavrsky per. C-1 Povarskaya ul. B-2/3 Vspolny per. B-2
Chistoprudny bul. D/E-2 Lavrushinsky per. C-4 Pozharsky per. B-4 Yakimanskaya nab. C-4
Chisty per. B-4 Leninsky pr. F-6 Prechistenskaya nab. C-4 Yakimansky proezd C-4
Delegatskaya ul. C-1 Leontievsky per. B-2 Prechistensky per. B-4 Yauzsky bul. E-3
Dobryninsky per. (1y) C-5 Lesnaya ul. A-1 Presnensky val ul. A-1/2 Zemlyanoy Val ul. E-2/3/4
Dokuchaev per. D-1 Lubyansky proezd D-2 Prospekt Mira D-1 Zhitnaya ul. C-5
Dolgorukovskaya ul. B-1 Lyalin per. E-2/3 Pushechnaya ul. C/D-2 Zhukovskogo ul. E-2
Dubininskaya ul. D-5 Mal. Bronnaya ul. B-2 Pushkinskaya nab. B-5 Znamenka ul. B/C-3
Durasovsky per. E-3 Mal. Dmitrovka ul. B-1/2 Pushkinskaya pl. C-2 Zoologicheskaya ul. A-1/2
Durova ul. C-1 Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. A-2 Pyatnitskaya ul. D-4
Ermolaevsky per. B-2 Mal. Karetny per. C-1 Pevchesky per. D-3 Abbreviations
Eropkinsky per. B-4 Mal. Kozikhinsky per. B-2 Raushskaya nab. D-3 Ul. - Ulitsa
Fadeeva ul. B-1 Mal. Nikitskaya ul. B-2 Romanov per. C-3 Per. - Pereulok
Filippovsky per. B-3 Mal. Ordynka ul. D-4/5 Rozhdestvenka ul. C-2 Pr. - Prospekt
Furmanny per. E-2 Mal. Polyanka ul. C-5 Rozhdestvensky bul. C/D-2 Pl. - Ploschad
Gagarinsky per. B-4 Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. D-1 Runovsky per. D-4 Bul. - Bulvar
Gazetny per. C-2/3 Mal. Yakimanka ul. C-4 Rybny per. C-3 Nab. - Naberezhnaya
Gilyarovskogo ul. D-1 Mal. Znamensky per. B/C-3 Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. B/C-1 Bol. - Bolshaya
Glazovsky per. A/B-4 Manezhnaya pl. C-3 Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. A/B-2 Mal. - Malaya
Gogolevsky bul. B-3/4 Manezhnaya ul. C-3 Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. E-1/2
Golikovsky per. D-4 Marksistskaya ul. E-4 Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul. B-1
66 Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com
St. Petersburg

HOTELS
ANGLETERRE HOTEL
QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193
rooms. hhhhh
CORINTHIA HOTEL ST. PETERSBURG
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380
20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh
GRAND HOTEL EUROPE
QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
hhhhh
HOTEL ASTORIA
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
hhhhh
KEMPINSKI HOTEL MOIKA 22
QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg.
197 rooms. hhhhh
SOKOS HOTEL PALACE BRIDGE
QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms.
hhhhh
TALEON IMPERIAL HOTEL
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms.
hhhhh
W ST. PETERSBURG
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.
hhhhh
CROWNE PLAZA ST. PETERSBURG - LIGOVSKY
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195
rooms. hhhh
NOVOTEL ST. PETERSBURG CENTRE
QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.
hhhh
AZIMUT HOTEL SAINT PETERSBURG
QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms.
hhh
GETTING THERE
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day be-
tween Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them mod-
ern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 65), and
others more suitable for those on a small budget. In ad-
dition there are also many super-fast trains (called the
‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours
and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and
early evening. There are also of course frequent flight
connections between Moscow’s main airports and St.
Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport.
Countryside estate
Arkhangelskoe
+7 495 797 54 09, +7 495 363 13 75
www.arhangelskoe.su
Classical French art
from the 18th and 19th
centuries
Moscow’s aristocracy
and the art of France
Exhibition Exhibition
This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate
once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince
Yusupov and is a wonderful monument of Russian
culture from the end of the XVIII to the beginning
of the XIX century.
The buildings around the estate are perfect
representatives of neoclassical architecture with
sweeping terraces and ionic-pillared arcades. The
gardens and terraces are bedecked with
architectural décor and marble sculptures, the
Caprice miniature palace, the Temple to Catherine II
and pavilions. On the Eastern part you will fnd the
Church of Archangel Michael, the Holy Gate as well
as other striking constructions. Visitors can cast
their eyes upon a splendid collection of paintings,
drawings, sculptures and pieces of applied art.
Works of such brilliant painters as Giovanni Battista
Tiepolo, Antoon van Dyck, François Boucher, Robert
Hue, Pietro Antonio Rotari - just to name a few –
are a pure delight for any art afcionado. But
perhaps the most prized possession of the estate is
its superb collection of rare books, which consists
of more than 16,000 volumes of Russian and
Western European pieces of the XVI-XIX centuries.
Spring or summer, winter or autumn –
Arkhangelskoe is breathtaking in any season. On a
sunny winter day it‘s a romantic setting for that
quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride through
the fresh crispy snow. But you don’t have to worry
about getting cold as there’s plenty of stalls selling
hot drinks and food. In the summer, the blooming
formal gardens ofer excellent views towards the
surrounding countryside and are dotted with
neo-classical sculptures and hidden summer
pavilions perfect for any amorous getaway. The
forested area leading to the small river is where
Pushkin, Gertsen and Karamzin once enjoyed
going for a lazy stroll.
Just like back in the olden days of Russian emperors
and nobility, now, once again, music can be heard
all throughout the estate. Classical music concerts
“Autumn Divertimento in Arkhangelskoe” are held
here and the arrival of summer means that it’s time
for the open air jazz music festival Usadba Jazz. It
may not be the easiest place to get to but if you’re
in Moscow and you’ve seen all there is to see in the
or are tired of the overcrowded city parks, Arkhan-
gelskoe Museum Estate is defnitely worth a visit!
Getting there: buses 549, 541 run from the
Tushinskaya metro station to the Arkhangelskoye
stop, minibuses 151 runs to the Sanatorium stop;
bus 524 or minibus 24 run to the Sanatorium stop.
Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with
excursion 200Rbl. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last
Wed of the month. Park always open.

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