Olive Magazine - June 2016
Content
JUNE 2016
The
O
Y
ayo
ina Gh
r
b
a
S
f ro m
Moderrn British classics get
thee O treatment
get spicy m idwe ek
Best-ever
INSTANT
(
(AND
HEALTHY!)
ICE CREAM
P inn g C o o m b e s
o n Ma lays ia
erbocker
boozy knick
5
glory page
ur
Welcome to
w afe r
769;9(0;! 46>0, 2(@*6=,97/6;6.9(7/!(5;+<5*(5:;@305.!090:)9644,;
june
The days of bemoaning British cuisine are long gone. We’re no
longer the laughable rosbifs but pioneers of inspired international
cooking. From the farmers and producers grafting to create the best
ingredients, to the top chefs magicking them into world-class cuisine.
So it seems only right that we celebrate Liz, HRH the Queen’s,
second birthday this year (her real birthday was back in April) with
an almighty street party outside the palace gates with picnic
hampers of the best British food and drink. We felt suitably inspired
and have tips for hosting your own picnic if the weather holds out.
And if it doesn’t? Well we’ll be heading indoors for one of the
16 great afternoon tea suggestions we have across the country.
I’m rather partial to a savoury selection but whether you like cake,
dim sum or gin (yes, really – and P. S. I’ve been known to enjoy a
drop of the latter, too), there’s a bunch of tiered treats just for you.
So what does British food mean to you? Could it be the boozy
knickerbocker glory on our front cover? (Check out its components
opposite – just wow.) Or maybe it’s Sabrina Ghayour’s interpretation
of Middle Eastern cookery: we’ve got recipes from her new book
Sirocco that make entertaining easy. Pork pie take your fancy?
We’ve got the team behind London’s first pork pie trolley revealing
their recipe for the ultimate picnic. Or perhaps a jaffa cake
is more your thing? Make your own with the best of the season’s
strawberry crop, why don’t you?
Whatever you decide to cook from this issue, you’ll be better
informed than ever before. For the first time we’re listing all of our
gluten-free recipes, as well as the usual veggie/vegan/freezable/
low-cal numbers, on our index page (page 7). And, remember,
we’ve got exclusive extra content on our app, podcast and at
Omagazine.com if you can’t wait until next issue (we’re going all
out for BBQ season!). We also want to know your favourite way to
interact with us at O – is that reading the magazine, commenting
on our Facebook page, or listening to the podcast on the way to
work? Let us know – and be in with a chance of winning a one day
course, for two, at River Cottage HQ, with an overnight stay at Old
Park Hall – by entering our quick and easy survey (see page 19).
hin
ma ras c
cherry
o
va nil la
wh ipp ed
crea m
f re s h
b e r r ie s
blu e b e r r y
a n d s lo e
g in s a u c e
ra sp b e r r y
r ipp le ic e
c re a m
Until next time…
y a nd
st ra w b e r r
y
P im m’s je ll
Laura Rowe, Editor
@Omagazine
@lauraroweeats
SO WHAT IS O ?
We’ve the industry’s most passionate team of food and drink experts, gorgeous photography and inspired tried-and-tested (three
times!) recipes. Whether you’re cooking at home, eating out, or travelling with mealtimes in mind, O is the place to start.
1\UL Omagazine.com
3
EDITORIAL
EDITOR Laura Rowe
FOOD EDITOR Janine Ratcliffe
ART DIRECTOR Gillian McNeill
WEB & COMMISSIONING EDITOR Charly Morgan
TRAVEL EDITOR Rhiannon Batten
CHIEF SUB, PRODUCTION EDITOR & WRITER Gregor Shepherd
PICTURE EDITOR Gabby Harrington
COOKERY WRITER Anna Glover
SUB EDITOR & DRINKS WRITER Sarah Kingsbury
SENIOR DESIGNER Nicki Smith
JUNIOR DESIGNER Guy Goodwin
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT & DIGITAL WRITER Alex Crossley
To email us, please use fi[email protected]
RECIPE, RESTAURANT AND TRAVEL ENQUIRIES
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4 Omagazine.com 1\UL
40
CONTENTS
Need
to know
7 Recipe index
9
22
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17 Just sayin’ ;VU` 5H`SVY SH\UJOLZ OPZ
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116 The lowdown ,]LY`[OPUN `V\ ULLK
[VRUV^HIV\[[OLNPUYL]VS\[PVU
50
52
cook
22 In season
,SKLYMSV^LY HY[PJOVRLZ
H\ILYNPULZ JV\YNL[[LZMLUULSHUK
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30 Made in Britain -HTPSPHY )YP[PZO
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59
61
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HU OV\Y PUJS\KPUN SHTI HWYPJV[ HUK
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Healthy choices 3V^JHSVYPL SV^MH[
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4VYVJJHU ]LN HUK JOPJRWLH [HNPUL
aH»H[HY H\ILYNPUL HUK IHUHUHPJLJYLHT
118 Strawberry jaffa cake
*6=,9 9,*07,! 1(505, 9(;*30-, 7/6;6.9(7/! (5; +<5*(5
:;@30:;!090:)964,;-66+:;@30:;!:(9(/*662
GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR Julie Harris
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Dominic Murray
SENIOR MANAGEMENT ACCOUNTANT Len Bright
MANAGEMENT ACCOUNTANT Noma Pele
Boozy
knickerbocker
glory
30 MINUTES + SETTING
TIME | MAKES 4 | EASY
Dip the wafer in icing or melted chocolate, then
in sprinkles, if you like. Leave to set before eating.
strawberries N O\SSLK
raspberries N
icing sugar
lemon juice H ZX\LLaL
whipping cream TS
vanilla extract [ZW
Cornish clotted cream ice cream ZJVVWZ
raspberry ripple ice cream ZJVVWZ
fan-shaped ice-cream wafers
maraschino cherries with stalks
:;9(>),99@ (5+ 7044»: 1,33@
strawberry jelly _ NWHJRL[
Pimm’s TS
)3<,),99@ (5+ :36,.05*6476;,
blueberries N
caster sugar [IZW
sloe gin[IZW
Cover
recipe
For more
recipes visit
118
O
30
magazine.
com
Don’t miss these
98
eat
72 Afternoon delight
81
86
88
90
92
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19 O prize draw – win a day
cooking at River Cottage
78 Reader offer – save on
an ice-cream maker
79 Subscribe to O – save
over 20% on the cover price
85 Reader offer – save £200
on a stay at The Samling
115 Next month’s O
explore
98 On the road: Lake district
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^VYRPUN [OLPY THNPJ VU ]LUPZVU:VS^H`
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100 Cook like a local: Malaysia
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105 Weekender: Budapest +PZJV]LY
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MPSS \W VU IVHY ^P[O X\PUJLJ\YKJOLLZL
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PER SERVING 871 KCALS | FAT 42.7G | SATURATES 26.5G
CARBS 82.5G | SUGAR 80.6G | FIBRE 4G
PROTEIN 7.8G | SALT 0.1G
1\UL Omagazine.com
5
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SEASONAL RECIPE INDEX
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1\UL Omagazine.com
7
BURSTING
WITH
NAPOLINA
PASSION
SINCE 1965
Pulses have long been a staple part of the Italian diet
and ours are treated with real love, care and attention.
They are carefully selected then rigorously checked to
ensure that only the best of the crop are chosen.
This attention to detail means that every soup, salad,
casserole or sauce you prepare with our pulses will be
bursting with wholesome flavour.
The heart of Italian cooking
www.napolina.com
NAPOLINA SUPPORTS
INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES
Here
now
&
How to use kefir,
packing the perfect
picnic, and a speedy
meal for one
HERE & NOW
Cod cheeks,
pickled cucumber
and kefirW
PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLING: ANNA GLOVER.
WORDS: ALEX CROSSLEY, ANNA GLOVER, JANINE RATCLIFFE, LAURA ROWE
Compiled by
GREGOR SHEPHERD
TRENDSPOTTER
Each month, the O team tracks
down a hot new chef and reveals one
of their top trends for the year. This
time, Dean Parker of The Manor in
Clapham, reveals how to use kefir
in home cooking
»
June 2016 Omagazine.com
9
You might need an
epicurean dictionary
to decipher the ultraseasonal menu at The Manor in Clapham,
London, but thanks to chef and keen urban
gardener Dean Parker, this erudition also
means there’s always a new ingredient to try.
One such is kefir.
“Similar to drinkable yogurt in consistency
and flavour, kefir is fermented milk containing
beneficial yeast and probiotic bacteria. We
use kefir as seasoning; it adds acidity,
preserves milk and, of course, it adds
nutrition, such as living bacteria. We make
it ourselves using double cream, whole milk,
and kefir spores, which you can buy online,”
says Dean, who worked at The Ledbury,
Sauterelle, and Tom Aiken’s before becoming
head chef at The Manor, sister restaurant
to The Dairy.
Here Dean uses it with cod cheeks and
pickled cucumbers for a fresh, summery
taste. [OLTHUVYJSHWOHTJV\R
Cod cheeks,
pickled cucumber
and kefir
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS
A STARTER | EASY
)\` JVK JOLLRZ MYVT H MPZOTVUNLY Q\Z[ HZR
[OLT [V YLTV]L [OL ZRPU HUK I\` RLMPY MYVT
ocado.com VY wholefoodsmarket.com
cod cheeks 4 skinless, patted dry
with kitchen paper
vegetable oil for frying
lemon ¼, zested and juiced
dill ½ a bunch, chopped
gherkin 1, chopped
fresh horseradish root grated to
make 1 tsp
PICKLE
mint 10 leaves, chopped
bay leaves 2
black peppercorns 12
golden caster sugar 15g
salt 6g
sauternes wine 50ml
10 Omagazine.com June 2016
cucumber ½, thinly sliced with a veg peeler
KEFIR
kefir 150ml
crème fraîche 50g
SPLIT DRESSING
gherkin brine 50ml (from the jar)
chervil or parsley a small handful of leaves
sorrel or rocket ½ a handful
olive oil 50ml
CRUMB
olive oil for frying
panko breadcrumbs 4 tbsp
• To make the pickle, put everything except
the cucumber into a small pan with 200ml
of water, and bring to a boil to dissolve the
sugar. Pour over the cucumber, leave
to cool, then cover in clingfilm and chill.
• Mix the kefir and crème fraîche and
season. Cover and chill.
• To make the split dressing, put all the
ingredients into a small blender and whizz
until it forms a purée. Season and chill.
• Remove the cod from the fridge 30
minutes before cooking to bring up
to room temperature.
• For the crumb, heat a drizzle of oil in
a frying pan, then add the breadcrumbs
and fry until lightly golden. Scoop out,
drain on kitchen paper, and season.
• Lightly season the cod cheeks with salt
and pepper. Heat a frying pan to very hot,
and add 1 tbsp vegetable oil. Put the cod
cheeks into the pan, and once golden (about
a minute), turn them over, take the pan off
the hob and leave the cheeks in the pan for
5 minutes, to cook in the residual heat. Put
the cheeks in a small bowl. Squeeze the
lemon juice into the pan, put back on the
heat, and deglaze it. Pour over the cod
cheeks. Add the dill, gherkins, lemon zest
and grated horseradish, and toss gently
with the cod.
• Spoon the kefir across half the bases of
4 small, shallow bowls, drizzle the dressing
over and marble with a spoon.
• Put 2 pickled cucumber pieces on the
uncovered side of plate. Spoon the cod
cheeks on and lightly sprinkle the crumb over.
PER SERVING 394 KCALS | FAT 23.2G | SATURATES 6.2G
CARBS 14G | SUGARS 3.1G | FIBRE 1.5G
PROTEIN 30.7G | SALT 2.2G
Quick
BITES
Products we’ve tried
and liked this month
This time, Sandra Ziles, head of product
development at M&S, has helped the O
team to select the best products to pack in
a picnic. All of these, which are made across the UK, are
available from M&S stores.
“A summer picnic hamper
isn’t complete without an
assortment of sandwiches
on the menu, and this
Patron’s Lunch Best of
British Sandwich Selection fits the bill perfectly.
It’s a classic combination of Northern Irish roast beef,
Scottish smoked trout, applewood smoked Wiltshire
ham and Welsh mature cheddar cheese with Windsor
apple chutney. £3.30
Ship’s Biscuits from the Pembrokeshire
Beach Food compny make great savoury
picnic snacks. Captain Cat’s Môr Seasoning
gives the fish-shaped biscuits notes of
paprika, citrus and seaweed. £3/70g
Ditty Irish smoked oatcakes don’t
hold back on the smokiness but have
a great sweetness, too, making them
ideal with tangy hard cheese.
£3/150g
Piccalilli-topped mini pork pies
from Melton Mowbray combine
two British foods in one mouthful.
£2.50/200g
M&S’s 3-year-old vintage
Cornish cruncher cheddar
packs an umami punch.
Cut it into chunks
and enjoy it with slices of apple. £5/300g
We love this moreish vanilla fudge from
family-run Matt & Ben’s Proper Fudge
in Wales. The ideal sweet treat to finish
a picnic. £4/150g
PHOTOGRAPH OF DEAN PARKER: JT PHOTOGRAPHER
Dean Parker’s
trend
HERE & NOW
FOOD EDITOR’S SHOPPING BASKET
Janine Ratcliffe’s favourite new products
Beef labelled ‘Scotch beef’ is unique in that it holds a PGI status (protected
geographical indication). This means that the beef has been sourced from
selected Scottish farms with the best possible animal welfare and natural
production methods, and is fully traceable back to its source. This careful
handling produces superior meat, which is rightly championed by chefs
such as Tom Kitchin who serves it in his Michelin-starred Edinburgh restaurant, The Kitchin.
Look for the Scotch beef PGI label in butchers and supermarkets. ZJV[JOILLMHUKSHTIJVT
Feather steaks with
chimichurri and sweet
potato fries
30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
:JV[JO ILLM OHZ H KLLW YPJO MSH]V\Y HUK
PZ NYLH[ ^P[O H W\UJO` ZH\JL Z\JO HZ
(YNLU[PUPHU JOPTPJO\YYP -LH[OLY Z[LHRZ HYL
HZOV\SKLYJ\[HUKHYLIYPSSPHU[MVYMSHZOMY`PUN
sweet potato 1 large, peeled and cut
into thin fries
olive oil
feather steaks 2
CHIMICHURRI
flat-leaf parsley ½ a small bunch,
finely chopped
oregano leaves a small handful, chopped
red chilli 1, small finely chopped
garlic ½ clove, chopped
smoked paprika 1 tsp
olive oil 3 tbsp
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp
• Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5.
Toss the fries with olive oil and season. Spread
out on a tray and cook until golden and crisp,
about 20-25 minutes.
• Mix together the chimichurri ingredients
and season.
• Heat a griddle or heavy frying pan to high. Oil
and season the steak then cook for 2 minutes
on each side. Leave to rest for 5 minutes.
Serve the steak with the fries and chimichurri.
PER SERVING 622 KCALS | FAT 35.6G | SATURATES 9G
CARBS 29.8G | SUGAR 15.7G | FIBRE 6G | PROTEIN 42.7G
SALT 0.4G
June 2016 Omagazine.com
11
ANNA’S QUICK FIXES
O’s cookery writer, Anna Glover,
serves up a speedy brunch for one
Summer eggs florentine
15 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
olive oil
garlic 1 clove, halved
spinach, chard or cabbage 200g
Dijon mustard 1 tsp
lemon juice 1 tsp
dill or tarragon chopped to make 1 tbsp
English muffin 1, halved and lightly toasted
vine tomato 1, sliced
eggs 2, poached to serve
• Heat a drizzle of olive oil in a pan, add one
of the garlic pieces and the greens. Fry for
a few minutes until wilted and the stalks are
tender, but still have a little bite. Fish out
the garlic and discard. Season the greens.
• Whisk the Dijon, lemon juice, herbs
and 2 tbsp olive oil. Add a pinch of sugar
and some seasoning.
• Rub the cut sides of the toasted muffin
with the other piece of garlic, put onto a
plate. Top with the wilted greens, tomato
slices, poached eggs and drizzle over the
vinaigrette. Add a few more herbs to serve.
PER SERVING 572 KCALS | FAT 37.9G | SATURATES 6.9G
CARBS 29.2G | SUGAR 6G | FIBRE 4.6G
PROTEIN 26.1G | SALT 1.7G
Psst..
HAVE YOU SEEN THIS?
If you’re in London this month and
want to cram as much eating into
your trip as you can (we don’t blame
you) you should head to Taste of
London in Regent’s Park on 15-19
June. More than 40 of the
capital’s top restaurants, along
with chefs from across the
UK, will be cooking
throughout the park during
the five days. Some 200
different signature dishes will
be available to taste created by the
12 Omagazine.com June 2016
chefs including Dan Doherty
(pictured left), José Pizarro, Ben
Tish, Monica Galetti, Pierre Koffmann
and Nathan Outlaw. New for this
year is a dedicated dessert hour
each day, plus there’ll be
opportunities to learn some new
skills for free (from champagne and
food pairing to sausage making), try
some of the UK’s finest craft beer,
and more. Tickets start at £16,
[HZ[LVMSVUKVUJV\R
HERE & NOW
Avocuddle
Cards/stationery
Say it with food. A range of cards and
stationery taking inspiration from the
edible. Personalised options available.
From £3.50, WHWPLYJVT
Ringleader
4 Ferm Living brass napkin rings
Danish design in action. Time to
up your table dressing game.
£44, IVYV\NORP[JOLUJVT
Kitchen craver
Because you can never have
too much kitchen stuff…
Ppppick up a..
Penguin cocktail shaker and ice bucket
Just add ice. And booze. Definitely booze.
£35 & £55,NYHOHTHUKNYLLUJV\R
Morning fix
Large mug
We like those kinds of
odds. For whenever you
need a fix: coffee, tea,
whatever. £10,[`WVJVT
Tray tray
Katie Alice pretty retro
birchwood tray
A summery drinks tray from
British designer Katie Alice,
inspired by trips to Stockholm.
£17, LUNSPZO[HISLJVT
Chop chop
Wild and Wolf mini
modern wooden
chopping board
This chopping board
is handmade from
eco-friendly raw materials
and, even better, it’s
handsome enough to leave
out on the kitchen counter, too.
£27.95, TPUPTVKLYUZJVT
Tasty slice
MUJI pop-up toaster
Deliciously minimal.
£59.95, T\QPL\
Blank canvas
Denby natural canvas
textured large mug
Hey good lookin’. Still as
stylish now as the iconic
’60s design it was
inspired by. £14,
stockists at KLUI`JV\R
Tea total
Moroccan tealeidoscope iced
green teapot Make tea time a
ritual again with this colourful pot,
complete with a loose-leaf strainer
inside. £50, [[LHJVT
»
June 2016 Omagazine.com
13
HERE & NOW
FRIDGE
RAIDER
Ever wondered what your favourite foodie has
lurking in their fridge? We ask blogger and
food nutrition student Izy Hossack
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14 Omagazine.com June 2016
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FOLLOW
Izy’s blog
topwithcinnamon.com
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
TAKE A SWIM ON
THE WILD SIDE
Combine swimming, walking and beautiful
British scenery for a wild swimming weekend
F
or the latest in this wild swimming series, New Covent Garden
Soup has teamed up with SwimTrek for tips on how to combine
wild swimming with walking and picturesque scenery, for an
exhilarating weekend away. Swimming between sights means you’ll
cover more ground, as well as see areas of beautiful British scenery
off the beaten tourist track.
O
EXPERT EYE: PACKING A PICNIC
PHOTOGRAPH: LARA HOLMES
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[YHUZMVYTLK PU[V HU HSTPNO[` Z[YLL[ WHY[` ^P[O WPJUPJ OHTWLYZ
[V JLSLIYH[L [OL 8\LLU»Z VMMPJPHS [O IPY[OKH` :HUKYH APSLZ
OLHK VM WYVK\J[ KL]LSVWTLU[ H[ 4
: ^OPJO PZ JH[LYPUN MVY
[OL 7H[YVU»Z 3\UJONP]LZ\ZOLY[VW[PWZVUL_LJ\[PUN[OL
WLYMLJ[WPJUPJ
To help keep your picnic fresh it’s worth investing in
a good-quality cool bag. Keep the food in the fridge right
up until the last minute, and if you’re planning a longer
journey, add a couple of freezer blocks to the bag to help
keep things cool.
Don’t forget the crockery and cutlery! Plastic or wooden
cutlery is light to carry and reusable, but you can take your
own crockery and cutlery from home. Just remember to
wrap it up well – you don’t want to damage any fragile items.
You can be as creative as you like with the food
– as long as you can eat it cold anything goes! To help
avoid the dreaded soggy sandwich, mix the salad filling with
mayonnaise to stop the juices leaking into the bread. Or, as
a picnic is all about sharing anyway, take the individual
sandwich ingredients along with a couple of freshly baked
baguettes and let everyone make their own.
Crudités and dips travel well and are great to nibble on
while you unpack the picnic.
Freeze juices to keep the drinks and food cool (as they’ll
double up as a cool block). This summer we’re seeing
a trend for South American inspired soft drinks, like
our watermelon and lime agua fresca from Mexico
(£2.20/750ml).
Beers and pre-mixed cocktails are perfect for picnics,
too: we’ve got a new American coconut IPA this year, made
with real coconut. Just remember to chill them before you
set off (£1.85/330ml).
Cater for the right amount of guests so that you don’t
end up with unwanted food and always take a bin liner and
wet wipes for the clean-up! THYRZHUKZWLUJLYJVT
TRAVEL LIGHT Lightweight clothing you can layer won’t
only lessen your load, but will also keep you warmer as it traps
heat. A lightweight, quick dry towel is also essential.
O
CONVENIENT CARRYALLS Keep valuables safe and make
easy work of swimming and exploring by investing in a waterproof bag.
O
WHERE SHOULD I HEAD? Heading south? Visit UNESCO
World Heritage site Durdle Door. In the North, take on the Lake
District, home to more than 80 lakes.
After your swim, keep warm and re-fuel. With nourishing ingredients
WIN!
For your chance to win
a SwimTrek UK day trip*, visit
New Covent Garden Soup at
facebook.com/ncgsoup
or on Twitter
@NewCoventGarden
For more information and inspiration, visit
newcoventgardensoup.com and swimtrek.com
*
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: CLOSING DATE FOR ENTRIES IS 11.59PM ON 30 JUNE 2016. COMPETITION OPEN
TO UK RESIDENTS AGED 18+ ONLY. FOR FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS VISIT FACEBOOK.COM/NCGSOUP
ENJOY THE SECRET OF
AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS.
It’s no secret that Cauldron has been making
delicious food for over 30 years. From veggie
sausages, organic tofu and Great Taste Award
^PUUPUN MHSHMLSZ H ^VYSK VM ÅH]V\YZ H^HP[Z `V\
So start your Cauldron adventure today at
www.cauldronfoods.co.uk
OPINION
;VU`
5H`SVY
Just saying
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769;9(0;! +(=0+ *6;:>69;/
W
e’ve all been there.
You’re sitting in a
rather la-di-dah
restaurant – the sort
of place where staff
glide around as if on
casters, discreetly
refilling wine glasses with an almost balletic grace.
All is calm, all is serene. That is, until you open
the menu and realise, with a giddy, rising panic,
that you don’t know what half of it means.
You stare at the ‘menu degustation’ (a tasting
menu, to you and me), as your party whispers backand-forth: “What the hell is ‘cromesqui?’ How do
you make milk from hay? Wasn’t Penny Wort in
The Avengers? How do you pronounce ‘spaetzle?’”.
There’s hurried debate and much guesswork,
falling back on half-remembered episodes of Rick
Stein’s French Odyssey. The waiter approaches,
palms get clammy, voices become tight and, finally,
as the order pad is produced you just blurt out,
pointing: “I’ll have that one!”
There are several reasons why restaurant menus
are often littered with obscure foreign words and
perplexing concepts, but the main one is that,
basically, chefs are a bit weird. Most of them have
been in kitchens 18 hours a day since the age of
16. They rarely see daylight. They read cookbooks
to relax. They seldom talk to anyone outside the
food world. It’s like the army (or prison) and,
consequently, they have developed their own
private language of historic French cooking jargon
and portmanteau slang for dishes, techniques and
ingredients. What they forget is that we civilians
find this baffling.
Occasionally, that is their devious aim. There’s
nothing like a dash of continental kitchen
terminology – a pane carasau here, a ballotine
there – to make a pedestrian menu sound
exotic. It justifies at least another £20 a head.
Similarly, some chefs are simply show-offs. They
flaunt their knowledge, not least to intimidate
customers. The message is: “I am an expert who
knows what is best for you. Do not question my
food. Do not complain”.
It’s a conceit that food snobs perpetuate. These
self-proclaimed ‘connoisseurs’ think that being
able to pronounce Noilly Prat correctly is evidence
of their superior taste and discrimination. Rubbish.
They may rudely correct you if you order broo-shetta instead of broo-sketta, but their palates are no
more refined than yours.
For those new to good food, for Brits terrible with
foreign languages, for those who think that veneur
plays for Arsenal (it’s a game sauce), all of this
makes eating out far more stressful than it should
be. Which is why, in O’s British issue, I’m
launching the Campaign For Real Restaurant
English. The idea is to provide clarity where there
is culinary confusion, in the following key ways:
Clear pronunciation There are words
(nocellara; chorizo; quinoa), which we all struggle
with. I know one senior British food journalist who,
such is the temptation to bring a Gallic flourish to
all things food, used to pronounce turbot, “turbo”.
And let’s not kid ourselves that waiting staff are
infallible here, either. In a bar, I recently ordered
a hefeweizen in perfectly accented German, only
for the server to stare at me blankly. After an
awkward explanation, she clicked. “Ah, you mean
the wheat beer!” This was a double-bind. The
menu needlessly listed it as hefeweizen and I was
foiled by its own pretentiousness. This is crazy. In
any venue, the aim should be that people feel
comfortable and are able to communicate what
they would like clearly. Therefore, if there are
points of potential confusion on a menu, remove
them. There’s no shame in changing banh mi to
Vietnamese baguette or bao to steamed bun.
No-one wants to order a “bo” and then feel that
squirming embarrassment as the waiter corrects
their pronunciation: “Yes, sir, ‘the bough’.”
Fanciful French Blame Britain’s historic
culinary inferiority complex, or chefs having been
trained in classical French kitchens, but menus are
often a minefield of opaque French terms such as
mi-cuit (part-cooked), boudin noir (black pudding),
en gelée (jellied), Viennoiserie (pastries), all of
which have perfectly good and readily understood
English equivalents. You may quibble that there’s
no direct translation of pithivier, but who will
complain if you call it a pasty or pie?
Technical showboating This attempt by
restaurants to communicate their highbrow
credentials in a kind of code takes many forms, all
needlessly inscrutable. For instance, ‘ribeye, 45’
does not accurately explain that it is a 45-day-aged
steak, just as ‘duck egg 62°’ is an unnecessarily
hip, mysterious way of saying soft-boiled egg.
Likewise, foam is foam. It does not need sexy spin.
Calling it an espuma is gobbledygook and a
cappuccino is something else entirely.
Mystery ingredient list Call me old-fashioned,
but unless I implicitly trust the chef, I can’t abide
minimalist dish descriptions in the vein of ‘pork,
shallots, carrots, arrogance’ or ‘beef, smoked hops,
hope’. I want a clear outline of how those
components will be rendered on the plate.
Occasionally, chefs get too wrapped-up in their
own shorthand. They forget we diners are here.
Muntjac is not instantly recognisable as venison,
just as very few people know that skrei is a trendy
type of wild Norwegian cod (except for avid readers
of April’s issue of O, of course). “Nosotto”,
a diced vegetable, rice-free risotto, is definitely one
that would require explanation from the waiter. But
will we ask? Often not. Because, to put it bluntly,
in language we all understand, when eating-out,
no-one wants to be made to feel stupid.
@naylor-tony
1\UL Omagazine.com
17
Find Heinz 50%
less sugar Beanz in
Promotion valid on 4x415g Heinz 50% less sugar Beanz from
May 16th to June 12th in all Morrisons stores. Subject to availability.
Now on
promotion
at £2.00
PRIZE DRAW
WIN
A RIVER COTTAGE COOKERY
COURSE & B&B BREAK
IN DEVON FOR TWO!
*VTWSL[L O»Z VUSPUL Z\Y]L` HUK `V\ HUK H MYPLUK JV\SK
LUQV` H VULKH` JVVRLY` JV\YZL H[ 9P]LY *V[[HNL/8
WS\ZHZ[H`H[6SK7HYR/HSSI
IPU+L]VU
D
ear readers,
we need you!
We care about
what you think
here at O, so
discovering what you love
and what you don’t is
important to us. And
so we’re asking you to fill out a quick survey
to enter our prize draw. And, as a big thank
you, we’ve teamed up with River Cottage HQ
in Devon to offer a day course for you and a
friend with the expert team, plus an
overnight stay in a super-stylish suite at
nearby Old Park Hall, a prize worth £680!
Laura Rowe, Editor
To celebrate River Cottage HQ’s 10th
anniversary, one very lucky winner and a friend
will be going on a culinary adventure to its centre
of food excellence in Devon with an overnight
stay with its near neighbour, the quintessential
country pile, Old Park Hall.
The exclusive prize starts with a full day in
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s award-winning
cookery school at River Cottage HQ, an organic
smallholding in the beautiful countryside that
surrounds the Jurassic coastline. The one-day
course, led by a team of experts, is a fun,
informal introduction to River Cottage’s
nose-to-tail, plot-to-plate food, full of techniques
and ideas to inspire you to get cooking at home,
in line with its famous reputation for seasonal,
ethical produce.
After your rewarding work, you’ll get to eat the
fruits of your labour. And, what better way to
relax further and balance the quality of your
hands-on learning than with an overnight stay in
one of the luxurious suites of Old Park Hall.
Enjoy good old-fashioned hospitality in this
magnificent, cosy, transformed Scottish baronial
manor. Kick off your shoes, sink into comfy
armchairs and take in the ever-changing
landscape of the Devon hills from this discreet
bolthole that has everything covered for a truly
relaxing retreat. It’s the perfect place to reflect on
all your culinary achievements. rivercottage.net
VISIT immediate.co.uk/Oreadersurvey BY 1 JULY 2016 FOR A CHANCE TO WIN
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1\UL Omagazine.com
19
For more
recipes visit
O
magazine.
com
June
COOK
7/6;6.9(7/!(5;+<5*(5:;@305.!090:)964,;
,]LY` YLJPWL `V\»SS ULLK [OPZ
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LU[LY[HPUPUN KPZOLZ HUK SV[Z VM
X\PJROLHS[O`L]LY`KH`TLHSZ
Ham hock and pea croquettes | Bakewell tart
Salami and taleggio pizza | Thai coconut courgetti soup
Beef rib with bone marrow butter | Cinnamon gooseberry crumbles
1\UL Omagazine.com
21
Make the most of elderflower, artichokes, aubergines,
courgettes, fennel and broad beans this month
Recipes ANNA GLOVER Photographs MOWIE KAY
Charred artichokes
with preserved
lemon aïoli W
BUY IT NOW
Globe artichokes
are early in their
season, so there
are more tender
leaves around their
chokes and fewer
tough outer leaves.
The hairy part of
the choke and the
outermost leaves
aren’t edible, but
the fleshy part of the
inner leaves are, and
most of the tougher
leaves can be drawn
through your teeth
to get the edible
flesh. Eat them as
soon as possible
after buying!
22 Omagazine.com June 2016
COOK
STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE. FOOD STYLING: CHLOE RIDE
Thai coconut
courgetti soup W
Psst...
low calorie!
June 2016 Omagazine.com
23
salt, and sear
on both sides until
smoky and they take
on char lines.
• Serve with small pots
of the aïoli, lemon wedges to
squeeze over, and some crusty bread.
PER SERVING 455 KCALS | FAT 44.4G
SATURATES 6.6G | CARBS 4.1G | SUGARS 1.3G
FIBRE 10.4G | PROTEIN 4.6G | SALT 0.9G
Thai coconut courgetti soup
40 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
Charred artichokes with
preserved lemon aïoli
1 HOUR | SERVES 6 AS A STARTER | EASY | VEGETARIAN
egg yolks 2
lemon 1, juiced, plus wedges to serve
garlic 1 clove, crushed
olive oil
preserved lemons 2 small (from a jar),
well drained
globe artichokes 6
crusty bread to serve
• To make the aïoli, put the egg yolks, 2 tbsp
of the lemon juice, garlic and some seasoning
in a small blender and blitz until smooth (or
put in a jug and whizz with a stick blender).
Slowly drizzle in 250ml olive oil while still
blending, until it emulsifies and thickens.
• Cut the preserved lemons in half, scrape
out the seeds and flesh, and discard, leaving
just the peel. Chop very finely, and stir into
the aïoli. Cover and chill.
• Cut the top 1/3 off the globes with a sharp
knife, then trim the tips of the leaves with
scissors. Put them in a large pan, cover
with water and add the remaining lemon
juice, plus the squeezed lemon halves.
Bring to a boil, weighing down the artichokes
with an upturned plate if they’re bobbing
around too much. Simmer for 20-40
minutes, depending on the size, until
you can easily pull out a leaf from a globe.
• Strain the artichokes, and leave to cool
while you heat a griddle pan to very hot.
Cut the artichokes in half and remove the
hairy chokes with a teaspoon. Rub the
artichokes with a little olive oil, season with
24 Omagazine.com June 2016
:[HY[PUN ^P[O YVVT [LTWLYH[\YL JV\YNL[[LZ
TLHUZ [OL ZV\W ^VU»[ JVVS KV^U T\JO
^OLU `V\ WV\Y P[ PU[V [OL IV^SZ HUK
[OL JV\YNL[[P ^VU»[ NV ^H[LY` I` ILPUN
ZPTTLYLK PU [OL ZV\W ;OL YLZPK\HS OLH[ VM
[OL ZV\W Q\Z[ SPNO[S` JVVRZ [OL JV\YNL[[L
SLH]PUN `V\ ^P[O WLYMLJ[S` HS KLU[L UVVKSLZ
*V]LY HUK JOPSS [OL YLTHPUPUN WHZ[L HUK RLLW
MVYH^LLRVY[^V[VTHRLH;OHPJ\YY`^P[O
courgettes 4 larger or 6 medium,
at room temperature
coconut oil
coconut milk 2 x 400g tins
vegetable or chicken stock 700ml
palm sugar 1 tbsp
lime 1, juiced, plus wedges to serve
fish sauce 1-2 tbsp
coconut cream to serve
THAI RED CURRY PASTE
shallots 4, chopped
red chillies 6 (seeded if you like)
lemongrass 2 stalks, outer layer removed
and finely chopped
garlic 6 cloves, peeled
galangal or ginger a thumb-sized piece,
peeled and sliced
coriander a bunch, leaves and
stems separated
shrimp paste 2 tsp
kaffir lime leaves 6, finely shredded
ground cumin 1 tsp
ground coriander 1 tsp
• To make the curry paste, bash the shallots,
chillies, lemongrass, garlic, galangal and
coriander stems in a large mortar with a
pestle until it forms a paste (or you can whizz
in a blender instead, if you like). Add the
shrimp paste, lime leaves, spices and 1 tsp
salt and bash or whizz again until smooth.
• Top and tail the courgettes, then use
a spiralizer to cut the courgettes, or very
thinly slice into noodles.
• Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil in a large pan and
fry 6 tbsp of the curry paste until fragrant,
about 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk, stock
and palm sugar and simmer for 10 minutes.
Divide the courgetti between 6 warmed
bowls. Season the soup with the lime juice
and fish sauce, and pour over the courgetti.
Scatter with coriander leaves, a drizzle of
coconut cream and serve with lime wedges.
PER SERVING 321 KCALS | FAT 26.9G | SATURATES 22.9G
CARBS 10.4G | SUGARS 7.6G | FIBRE 2.8G
PROTEIN 8G | SALT 1.8G
Thyme, elderflower
& lemon ice lollies
30 MINUTES + STEEPING OVERNIGHT + FREEZING
MAKES 10 | EASY | VEGAN
@V\ JHU THRL [OPZ PU[V H JVYKPHS [VV Q\Z[
YLK\JL [OL ^H[LY [V TS HUK Z[YHPU PU[V
Z[LYPSPZLK QHYZ 0[ ^PSS RLLW MVY \W [V H TVU[O PU
[OL MYPKNL 0M `V\ JHU»[ MPUK LSKLYMSV^LY OLHKZ
\ZL KPS\[LK JVYKPHS HUK Z[LLW ^P[O [OL SLTVU
HUK[O`TLPU[OLMYPKNLV]LYUPNO[
golden caster sugar 500g
elderflower heads 4, washed
lemons 2
thyme a small bunch
• Put the caster sugar and 1 litre of water in
a pan and bring to a simmer. Make sure the
sugar has dissolved. Wash the elderflower
heads gently under cold water. Peel the rind
from 1 lemon into strips with a peeler.
• Remove the sugar syrup from the heat. Add
the elderflower heads, lemon strips, the juice
from the peeled lemon and most of the thyme
(leave 5 sprigs for decoration). Leave to cool,
cover, and steep overnight.
• Strain the liquid through a piece of muslin
or clean tea towel into a jug. Taste the liquid
and if it’s too sweet for you, dilute with water
and add more lemon juice. It should be a bit
sweeter than you like it, as the freezing
process will take the sweetness down a little.
• Slice the remaining lemon, put 1 slice each
in 10 ice-lolly moulds, and a small sprig of
thyme. Pour the elderflower liquid into the
moulds, add a lolly stick and freeze overnight.
PER SERVING 205 KCALS | FAT 0.1G | SATURATES 0G
CARBS 50.7G | SUGARS 50.1G | FIBRE 0.5G
PROTEIN 0.1G | SALT 0G
COOK
Th ym
er
e rf lo w
d
l
e
,
e
& le mo n i
c e l o l lie s
BUY IT NOW
Elderflowers, from
elder trees, are in
season from the
end of May to the
beginning of June.
You can usually find
them on the sides
of canals or in parks
(just make sure you
know what you’re
picking!). If you can’t
find any locally, try
greensofdevon.com
to buy online.
June 2016 Omagazine.com
25
Broad bean fritters with
herby whipped goat’s
cheese and bacon crumbs
30 MINUTES | SERVES 3 | EASY
:LY]L HU` ^OPWWLK NVH[»Z JOLLZL
SLM[V]LY ^P[O JOLLZL JYHJRLYZ
JYPZWIYLHKZVYVUJYVZ[PUPHZHJHUHWt
soft goat’s cheese 200g
soft cheese 100g
olive oil
mint leaves chopped to make 1 tbsp
chives a small bunch, chopped
smoked streaky bacon 4 rashers
plain flour 125g
baking powder ½ tsp
egg 1, beaten
milk 150ml
lemon 1, zested
broad beans 250g, weighed after being
double-podded
• Whisk the goat’s cheese, soft cheese,
1 tbsp oil and a pinch of salt in a bowl
with an electric whisk until light and fluffy.
Fold in the mint and 1 tbsp chopped chives.
Cover and chill. Grill the bacon until crisp.
• Tip the flour and baking powder into a bowl
with ½ tsp salt. Make a well and whisk in the
egg and milk until you have a smooth batter.
Fold in the lemon zest, broad beans and
most of the remaining chives.
• Heat a non-stick frying pan with a drizzle
of oil. Add spoonfuls of the batter to the
pan to make 8cm wide fritters. When they
start to set, and bubbles come to the
surface in the batter, flip, and cook for a few
more minutes until lightly golden on both
sides. Keep warm under foil while you
make the rest.
• Serve the fritters with spoonfuls
(make quenelles by moulding
the cheese between 2 spoons,
if you like) of the whipped goat’s
cheese on top. Crumble over
the bacon, and sprinkle with
chives to serve.
PER SERVING 682 KCALS
FAT 40.8G | SATURATES 21.7G
CARBS 40.7G | SUGARS 4.8G
FIBRE 7.7G | PROTEIN 34.2G
SALT 3.8G
26 Omagazine.com June 2016
COOK
Baba ganoush with
cumin crispbreads
1¼ HOURS + RESTING | SERVES 4 AS A SNACK
EASY | VEGAN
:LY]L HZ H TLaL Z[HY[LY ^P[O O\TT\Z
VSP]LZ SHTI RVM[L VY MHSHMLS @V\ JHU RLLW
[OL JYPZWIYLHKZ PU HUHPY[PNO[JVU[HPULYMVY
\W[V[OYLLKH`Z
aubergines 2
garlic 2 cloves, crushed
tahini 2 tbsp
lemon 1/2, juiced
cayenne pepper ¼-½ tsp
extra-virgin olive oil
flat-leaf parsley ½ a small bunch,
finely chopped
CRISPBREADS
strong white bread flour 200g, plus
more for dusting
golden caster sugar 1 tsp
cumin seeds 1 tbsp, toasted
• Heat the oven to 170C/fan 150C/gas 3½.
Put the flour, 1 tsp salt, sugar and cumin
seeds into a bowl. Add 125ml warm water
and knead to make a dough. Tip onto a
floured worksurface and keep kneading until
very smooth. Transfer to a clean bowl and
rest for 30 minutes. Divide into 2 pieces, and
roll the dough out as thin as you can on the
floured surface, it should be about 2mm thick.
• Carefully transfer the breads to 2 baking
paper-lined trays and bake for 30-35 until
crisp and golden. Allow to cool on a cooling
rack, then break into shards.
• Heat the grill to high. Pierce the skins of the
aubergines all over with a skewer. Put on a
baking tray and grill for 20-25 minutes, turning
halfway through. The skin should be charred
and the flesh soft all the way through when
you press it. Leave to cool for a few minutes.
• Cut the grilled aubergines in half
lengthways, and scoop out the flesh with
a spoon, discarding the skin. Put the flesh into
a blender with ½ tbsp salt, a good grinding
of pepper, the garlic, tahini, lemon juice,
cayenne and 3 tbsp oil. Blitz to a smooth
paste. Stir in the parsley, and drizzle with
more oil. Serve with the crispbreads.
PER SERVING 395 KCALS | FAT 16.4G | SATURATES 2.4G
CARBS 45G | SUGARS 6.7G | FIBRE 10.7G
PROTEIN 11.5G | SALT 3.1G
June 2016 Omagazine.com
27
COOK
Quick confit salmon
with pickled fennel
40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
salmon fillets 2 skin on, about 150g each
thyme 2 sprigs
garlic 2 cloves, bashed
bay leaf 1
black peppercorns 6
olive oil 200ml-400ml
chopped dill to serve (optional)
PICKLED FENNEL
white wine vinegar 200ml
golden caster sugar 100g
black peppercorns 4
fennel 1 medium bulb
28 Omagazine.com June 2016
• Heat the white wine vinegar and the sugar
with a pinch of salt and the peppercorns until
the sugar has dissolved, then leave to cool.
Remove any green fronds from the top of the
fennel and keep them for later. Trim the base,
and finely slice the fennel on a mandoline or
with a sharp knife. Toss in the pickling liquid,
cover and chill.
• Put the salmon fillets into a pan they fit
snugly, but leave a little gap between them
so the oil will coat them. Add the thyme,
garlic, bay leaf and peppercorns. Cover with
olive oil until completely submerged (the
amount you need will depend on the size
of the pan) and put on a low heat. Cook
for 10-15 minutes until the fish is cooked
and looks translucent, or the internal temp
at the thickest part is 45C.
• Gently remove the fish from the oil to stop
it cooking, and pat with kitchen paper.
Season with salt and pepper. Drain the
fennel from the pickle liquid and divide
between 2 plates. Add the salmon fillet, and
top with the fennel fronds, or some
dill if you don’t have any.
PER SERVING 517 KCALS | FAT 37.5G | SATURATES 6.3G
CARBS 8G | SUGARS 7.1G | FIBRE 4.4G
PROTEIN 34.7G | SALT 0.2G
SCULPT
A LOPSIDED MEDITERRANEAN MASTERPIECE
OUR REDUCED FAT SPREADABLE
MADE WITH OLIVE OIL
Made in
BRITAIN
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30 Omagazine.com1\UL
OF BE
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p32
BUTTER
W
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MARRO
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FOOD STYLING: SAL HENLEY. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON
COOK
ITH BO
1\UL Omagazine.com
31
Brown butter ice cream
35 MINUTES + FREEZING | MAKES 1.5 LITRES
A LITTLE EFFORT
)YV^U I\[[LY HKKZ H U\[[` JHYHTLSPZLK
MSH]V\Y[VJYLHT`]HUPSSHPJLJYLHT
unsalted butter N
whole milk TS
vanilla pod ZWSP[ HUK ZLLKZZJYHWLKV\[
demerara sugar N
egg yolks
double cream TSJVSK
7\[ [OL I\[[LY PU H ZTHSS WHU *VVR VU
H TLKP\T OLH[ HUK ^OPZR \U[PS [OL I\[[LY
OHZ [\YULK H KHYRNVSKLUIYV^UHUKZTLSSZ
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7\[ [OL TPSR ]HUPSSH ZLLKZ HUK Z\NHY PU
H WHU ^P[O H WPUJO VM ZHS[ HUK IYPUN Q\Z[ [V
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)LH[ [OL LNN `VSRZ ^P[O HU LSLJ[YPJ ^OPZR
NYHK\HSS` HKKPUN [OL IYV^U I\[[LY 9LOLH[ [OL
TPSR [OLU WV\Y V]LY [OL LNNZ ^OPZRPUN HZ `V\
NV 7V\Y [OL TP_ IHJR PU[V H JSLHU WHU V]LY
H SV^ OLH[ HUK Z[PY \U[PS [OL J\Z[HYK PZ [OPJR
LUV\NO [V JVH[ [OL IHJR VM [OL ZWVVU 2LLW
Z[PYYPUN HUK KVU»[ SL[ P[ V]LYOLH[ VY `V\»SS LUK
\W ^P[O ZJYHTISLK LNNZ ;OL ^OVSL WYVJLZZ
ZOV\SK [HRL HYV\UK TPU\[LZ
7V\Y [OYV\NO H ZPL]L PU[V H IV^S [OLU Z[PY
PU [OL JYLHT 7V\Y PU[V HU PJLJYLHT THRLY
HUK JO\YU \U[PS [OPJR VY WV\Y PU[V H MYLLaLY
IV_ HUK MYLLaL Z[PYYPUN L]LY` OV\Y VY ZV \U[PS
MYVaLU -YLLaL P[ PU P[Z IV_ \U[PS `V\ ULLK P[
)LMVYL ZLY]PUN W\[ [OL PJL JYLHT PU [OL
MYPKNL MVY TPU\[LZZV[OH[P[PZLHZ`
[VZJVVW
PER SERVING 254 KCALS | FAT 23.4G | SATURATES 14G
CARBS 8.9G | SUGARS 8.9G | FIBRE 0G
PROTEIN 1.8G | SALT 0.1G
COOK’S NOTES
Whisking the butter while it cooks guarantees
a deep, even colour as this prevents the milk
solids collecting on the bottom of the pan
and burning. Freeze the leftover egg whites
to make meringues another time. They will
keep for 12 months.
32 Omagazine.com1\UL
Rib of beef with bone
marrow butter
1 HOUR | SERVES 4 | EASY
*VVRPUN H O\NL YPI YVHZ[ JHU IL X\P[L
KH\U[PUN ZV ^L SV]L [OPZ ZPTWSPMPLK TL[OVK
HUK [OL IVUL THYYV^ I\[[LY [HRLZ P[ [V
[OL UL_[ SL]LS (ZR `V\YI\[JOLY[VZWSP[
[OLIVULZMVY`V\
rib of beef HIV\[ RN ZVTL[PTLZJHSSLK
J[L KL IVL\M-YLUJO[YPTTLK
olive oil
cracked black pepper
sea salt flakes
watercress KYLZZLK ^P[O lemon juice
HUK olive oil [V ZLY]L
)65, 4(996> )<;;,9
marrow bones ZWSP[SLUN[O^H`Z
soft butter N
shallots MPULS` JOVWWLK
flat-leaf parsleyHOHUKM\SJOVWWLK
COOK’S NOTES
Using a digital Thermapen or meat thermometer
will help you cook meat exactly as you like it.
For medium beef you’ll need a reading of 60C.
Ham hock and pea croquettes
45 MINUTES + CHILLING | MAKES ABOUT 40
A LITTLE EFFORT
;Y` [V \ZL H ^OVSL OHT OVJR MVY [OPZ ZV
[OH[ `V\ JHU RLLW [OL WPLJLZ YLHSS` JO\UR`
)\[JOLYZ HUK SHYNLY Z\WLYTHYRL[ZZLSS
[OLTYLHK`JVVRLK
butter N
plain flour N
whole milk TS
mature cheddar N NYH[LK
cooked ham hockNZOYLKKLK
PU[V JO\URZ
frozen peas N KLMYVZ[LK
flat-leaf parsley HOHUKM\SMPULS`JOVWWLK
eggs ILH[LU
dried breadcrumbs N
groundnut oil MVY KLLW MY`PUN
English mustard[VZLY]L
;V THRL [OL IVUL THYYV^ I\[[LY OLH[ [OL
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PU JSPUNMPST HUK RLLW PU [OL MYPKNL
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TPU\[LZ ILMVYL `V\ ^HU[ [V JVVR P[ 9\I
VSP]L VPS HSS V]LY [OL TLH[ [OLU ZLHZVU OLH]PS`
^P[O JYHJRLK ISHJR WLWWLY HUK ZLH ZHS[
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[V ]LY` OV[ HUK ZLHY [OL ILLM ¶ Z[HY[PUN ^P[O
[OL MH[ ZPKL ZV [OL MH[ YLUKLYZ PU[V [OL WHU
:LHY [OL ILLM VU LHJO ZPKL \U[PS UPJLS`
IYV^ULK ¶ HIV\[ TPU\[LZ ¶ [OLU SPM[ PU[V
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MVY TPU\[LZ MVY TLKP\T [\YUPUN
OHSM^H` >OLU [OL ILLM PZ KVUL SL[ P[ YLZ[ MVY
TPU\[LZ :LY]L VU H IVHYK ^P[O ZSPJLZ
VM[OLI\[[LYHUKKYLZZLK^H[LYJYLZZ
4LS[ [OL I\[[LY PU H WHU HUK [OLU Z[PY PU [OL
MSV\Y [V THRL H [OPJR WHZ[L .YHK\HSS` Z[PY PU
[OL TPSR \U[PS `V\ OH]L H ZTVV[O ZH\JL
:PTTLY V]LY H SV^ OLH[ MVY TPU\[LZ
(KK [OL JOLLZL HUK Z[PY \U[PS TLS[LK [OLU
HKK [OL OHT WLHZ HUK WHYZSL` HUK ZLHZVU
:JVVW PU[V H [YH` VY KPZO JVVS [OLU JOPSS
JVTWSL[LS` PU [OL MYPKNL ;OPZ JHU [HRL
OV\YZ VY `V\ JV\SK THRL P[ [OL KH`
ILMVYL :JVVW V\[ SHYNL [HISLZWVVUZ VM [OL
TP_ HUK YVSS LHJO PU[V ZTHSS SVNZHYV\UK
JT SVUN HUK JT [OPJR
7\[ [OL ILH[LU LNN VU VUL WSH[L HUK
IYLHKJY\TIZ VU HUV[OLY 9VSS [OL JYVX\L[[LZ
PU [OL LNN [OLU [OL JY\TIZ 9LWLH[ ZV `V\
OH]L [^V SH`LYZ VM LNN HUK IYLHKJY\TIZ
-PSS H WHU UV TVYL [OHU M\SS ^P[O VPS HUK
OLH[ [V * VY \U[PS H J\IL VM IYLHK
IYV^UZ PU HYV\UK ZLJVUKZ [OLU KLLW MY`
[OL JYVX\L[[LZ PU IH[JOLZ MVY TPU\[LZ
\U[PS JYPZW HUK NVSKLU :JVVW V\[ HUK KYHPU
VU RP[JOLU WHWLY `V\ JHU RLLW [OL JVVRLK
JYVX\L[[LZ ^HYT PU H ]LY`SV^V]LU:LY]L
^P[O,UNSPZOT\Z[HYK
PER SERVING 415 KCALS | FAT 33.4G | SATURATES 13.9G
CARBS 0.7G | SUGARS 0.5G | FIBRE 0.3G
PROTEIN 27.8G | SALT 0.4G
PER SERVING 88 KCALS | FAT 6.1G | SATURATES 2.4G
CARBS 5.1G | SUGARS 0.9G | FIBRE 0.2G
PROTEIN 3.2G | SALT 0.3G
PEA
C
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M
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QUETT
HO C K
RO
A
COOK
1\UL Omagazine.com
33
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PUDDIN
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34 Omagazine.com1\UL
K RA R
UC
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MINI
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EB
B
COOK
p36
1\UL Omagazine.com
35
7\[ [OL WHU V]LY H SV^ OLH[ HUK IYPUN [OL
TPSR ZSV^S` [V [OL IVPS 9LK\JL [OL OLH[ HUK
ZPTTLY ]LY` NLU[S` MVY HIV\[ TPU\[LZ \U[PS
[OL YPJL PZ [LUKLY Z[PYYPUN VJJHZPVUHSS`
9LTV]L [OL ]HUPSSH WVK MYVT [OL YPJL HUK
SLH]L [V JVVS [V YVVT [LTWLYH[\YL
:[PY PU [OL JYLHT HUK I\[[LYTPSR HUK KP]PKL
IL[^LLU ZTHSS IV^SZ *OPSS MVY H JV\WSL
VM OV\YZ VY \U[PS `V\ ^HU[ [V LH[
;V ZLY]L ZWYPURSL ^P[O H SH`LY VM JHZ[LY
Z\NHY HUK JHYHTLSPZL \ZPUN H ISV^[VYJO VY
I` WSHJPUN \UKLY H OV[ NYPSS*OPSSMVYHUV[OLY
TPUZILMVYLZLY]PUN
PER SERVING 372 KCALS | FAT 21.3G | SATURATES 13.2G
CARBS 38.7G | SUGARS 18.4G | FIBRE 0.2G
PROTEIN 6G | SALT 0.2G
Mini buck rarebits
30 MINUTES | MAKES 12 | EASY
( >LSZO YHYLIP[ [VWWLK ^P[O HU LNN PZ
JHSSLK H I\JR YHYLIP[ ;OPZ]LYZPVUPZ
ILH\[PM\SS`IP[LZPaLK
Buttermilk burnt
rice pudding
35 MINUTES + COOLING | SERVES 6 | EASY
;OPZ PZ H THZO\W VM [^V JSHZZPJ )YP[
KLZZLY[Z" YPJL W\KKPUN HUK I\YU[ *HTIYPKNL
JYLHT @V\ KVU»[ OH]L [V JHYHTLSPZL[OL[VW
I\[P[HKKZHSV]LS`JY\UJO
pudding rice N
vanilla pod VY vanilla bean paste[ZW
whole milk TS
golden caster sugar NWS\ZL_[YH
[V MPUPZO
double cream TS
buttermilk TS
7\[ [OL YPJL PU H ZH\JLWHU HKK TS
^H[LY HUK IYPUN [V [OL IVPS 9LK\JL [OL OLH[
HUK ZPTTLY ]LY` NLU[S` MVY TPU\[LZ +YHPU
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]HUPSSH WVK PU OHSM ZJYHWL V\[ [OL ZLLKZ HUK
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36 Omagazine.com1\UL
mature cheddar N NYH[LK
English mustard[ZW
egg yolk
Worcestershire sauce H NVVKKHZO
brown VY red ale [IZW
sourdough VY country breadSVUNZSPJLZ
quail eggs
vegetable oil MVY MY`PUN
cayenne pepper
7\[ [OL JOLLZL T\Z[HYK LNN `VSR HUK
>VYJLZ[LYZOPYL ZH\JL PU H ZTHSS MVVK
WYVJLZZVY HUK ^OPaa HKKPUN LUV\NO HSL [V
THRL H WHZ[L ;VHZ[ [OL IYLHK [OLU [OPJRS`
ZWYLHK VU [OL YHYLIP[ -Y` [OL X\HPS LNNZ PU
]LNL[HISL VPS .YPSS [OL YHYLIP[ \U[PS NVSKLU HUK
I\IISPUN *\[ PU[V MPUNLYZ HUK [VW LHJO ^P[O
HMYPLKLNN:WYPURSL^P[OJH`LUUL[VMPUPZO
PER SERVING 157 KCALS | FAT 9.5G | SATURATES 5.1G
CARBS 8.9G | SUGARS 0.6G | FIBRE 0.4G
PROTEIN 8.9G | SALT 0.6G
Crab and Berkswell tarts
1 HOUR | MAKES 6 | EASY
)LYRZ^LSS PZ H OHYK L^L»Z TPSR JOLLZL ^P[O
H ZSPNO[ [HUN [OH[ NVLZ YLHSS` ^LSS PU JYLHT`
NYH[PUZ HUK [HY[Z0[»ZHWLYMLJ[WHY[ULYMVY
*VYUPZOJYHI
all-butter shortcrust pastry N
brown crabmeat N
eggs SHYNL ILH[LU
double cream TS
Berkswell VY pecorino N NYH[LK
tarragon JOVWWLK [V THRL[IZW
white crabmeat N
salad cress[VZLY]L
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
9VSS V\[ [OL WHZ[Y` [V [OL [OPJRULZZ VM H W
JVPU [OLU \ZL [V SPUL _ JT PUKP]PK\HS [HY[
[PUZ SL[[PUN [OL L_JLZZ V]LYOHUNPUN -PSS ^P[O
IHRPUN WHWLY HUK IHRPUN ILHUZ [OLU ISPUK
IHRL MVY TPU\[LZ ;HRL V\[ [OL WHWLY
HUK ILHUZ HUK JVVR MVY HUV[OLY TPU\[LZ
*VVS [OLU [YPT [OL L_JLZZ WHZ[Y` )YLHR
[OL IYV^U JYHI TLH[ \W PU H IV^S [OLU ILH[
PU [OL LNNZ JYLHT HUK JOLLZL :LHZVU
^P[O WLWWLY HUK H SP[[SLZHS[[OLUZ[PY
PU [OL [HYYHNVU
+P]PKL [OL ^OP[L JYHI IL[^LLU [OL [HY[
JHZLZ [OLU WV\Y V]LY [OL LNN TP_ 7\[ IHJR
PU [OL V]LU MVY TPU\[LZ \U[PS Q\Z[ ZL[
:LY]L^HYTZJH[[LYLK^P[O[OLJYLZZ
PER SERVING 608 KCALS | FAT 48.3G | SATURATES 27.4G
CARBS 24.3G | SUGARS 1.9G | FIBRE 1G
PROTEIN 18.6G | SALT 0.8G
COOK’S NOTES
Find a recipe for shortcrust pastry at
Omagazine.com.
COOK
B AND
RA
C
R KS W
L T A RT S
EL
BE
1\UL Omagazine.com
37
Eastern
promise
:HIYPUH .OH`V\Y»Z KLI\[ 7LYZPHUH ^HZ H ILZ[ZLSSLY MVY H YLHZVU
/LYL ZOL ZOHYLZ ZVTL IYPSSPHU[ 4PKKSL ,HZ[LYUZ[`SL YLJPWLZ
HSS YLHK` PU \UKLY HU OV\Y MYVT OLY UL^ IVVR :PYVJJV
9LJPWLZ :()905( ./(@6<9 7OV[VNYHWOZ /((9(3( /(403;65
Parsee duck-egg scramble
25 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
+\JR LNNZ OH]L H YPJO HUK JYLHT` JOHYHJ[LY [OH[
HSSV^Z [OLT [V OVSK [OLPY V^U HNHPUZ[ ZWPJLZ ¶ L]LU
TVYL ZV [OHU OLUZ» LNNZ ;OPZ PZ H NYLH[ IYLHRMHZ[
VY IY\UJO KPZO I\[ PU T` J\S[\YL P[»Z ]LY` JVTTVU
[V LH[ LNNZ MVY H SPNO[ I\[ [V[HSS` MHI\SV\Z L]LUPUN TLHS
cumin seeds [ZW
coriander seeds [ZW
vegetable oil MVY MY`PUN
fresh curry leaves
red chilli SVUN MPULS` JOVWWLK ZLLKLK PM `V\ SPRL
garlic JSV]L JY\ZOLK
ground turmeric ñ [ZW
spring onions H I\UJO [OPUS` ZSPJLK
salted butter N
duck eggs ILH[LU
lime aLZ[LK
coriander ñ H ZTHSS I\UJO MPULS` JOVWWLK
flatbreads ^HYTLK [V ZLY]L
40 Omagazine.com 1\UL
/LH[ H SHYNL MY`PUN WHU V]LY H TLKP\TOPNO OLH[
HUK [VHZ[ [OL J\TPU HUK JVYPHUKLY ZLLKZ MVY H ML^
TPU\[LZ Z[PYYPUN [V WYL]LU[ I\YUPUN 9LTV]L [OL
[VHZ[LK ZLLKZ MYVT [OL WHU HUK NYPUK [OLT [V H
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SLH]LZ HUK VUJL [OL` Z[HY[ [V THRL WVWWPUN UVPZLZ
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JVYPHUKLY WV^KLY HUK [OL [\YTLYPJ :[PY ^LSS (KK [OL
ZWYPUN VUPVUZ HUK I\[[LY Z^PM[S` MVSSV^LK I` [OL
ILH[LU K\JR LNNZ <ZPUN H ^VVKLU ZWVVU ZJYHTISL
[OL K\JR LNNZ I` Z[PYYPUN [OLT X\PJRS` [V WYL]LU[
Z[PJRPUN (KK H NLULYV\Z WPUJO VM ZHS[ HUK WLWWLY
[OL SPTL aLZ[ HUK JVYPHUKLY [OLU YLTV]L MYVT [OL
OLH[ PTTLKPH[LS` :[PY HUK ZLY]L PKLHSS` ^P[O ^HYT
MSH[IYLHKZ VY ZPTWSL [VY[PSSH ^YHWZ 0 SV]L JOPSSP ZH\JL
VY THUNV JO\[UL` ZLY]LK ^P[O [OPZ KPZO
COOK
1\UL Omagazine.com
41
Spiced beetroot yogurt
20 MINUTES | SERVES 6 AS A SNACK
EASY | VEGETARIAN
;OL Z^LL[ULZZ VM [OL ILL[YVV[ ^VYRZ
ILH\[PM\SS` ^P[O [OL JYLHT` ZOHYWULZZ
VM [OL `VN\Y[ 0M `V\Y KPW SVVRZ H IP[ WHSL
ISLUK PU H JV\WSL VM L_[YHILL[YVV[[V
IYPNO[LU[OLJVSV\Y
cooked beetroot N UV[ PU]PULNHY
ground coriander [IZW
mint H I\UJO SLH]LZ WPJRLK
HUK MPULS` JOVWWLK
Greek yogurt N
nigella seeds [ZW
olive oilMVYKYPaaSPUN
+YHPU [OL L_JLZZ Q\PJL MYVT [OL ILL[YVV[
YV\NOS` JOVW [OLU ISP[a PU H IV^S \ZPUN
H Z[PJR ISLUKLY VY PU H ZTHSS ISLUKLY \U[PS
[OL`»YL IYVRLU KV^U [V H JVHYZL[L_[\YLK
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ZLLKZ [OL YLZLY]LK JOVWWLKTPU[HUK
HKYPaaSLVMVSP]LVPS
42 Omagazine.com1\UL
COOK
Lamb, apricot and
fennel seed lollipops
W
1\UL Omagazine.com
43
Lamb, apricot and
fennel seed lollipops
50 MINUTES | MAKES 18-20 | EASY
*HSS [OLT SVSSPWVWZ RVM[H VY TLH[IHSSZ ^OPJO
PZ [LJOUPJHSS` ^OH[ [OL` HYL [OL` THRL
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WYLMLYHTPSKLYMSH]V\Y\ZLML^LYZLLKZ
26-;(
lamb mince N
ready-to-eat dried apricots N
MPULS` JOVWWLK
fennel seeds N [VHZ[LK
HUK MPULS` NYV\UK
eggs
onion MPULS` JOVWWLK
ground turmeric OLHWLK [ZW
dill ZTHSS I\UJO MPULS`JOVWWLK
WS\Z L_[YH [V NHYUPZO
sea salt flakes [ZW
vegetable oil MVYMY`PUN
;6 :,9=,
Greek yogurt N
olive oil VY lemon juice VW[PVUHS
sweet tamarind paste
nigella seedsHZTHSSOHUKM\S
/LH[ H SHYNL MY`PUN WHU V]LY H TLKP\T
OLH[ 0M [OL MY`PUN WHU PZU»[ SHYNL LUV\NO
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TP_[\YL [OVYV\NOS` \ZPUN `V\Y OHUKZ 9LHSS`
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+YPaaSL Q\Z[ LUV\NO VPS PU[V [OL OV[ MY`PUN
WHU[VJVH[[OLIHZLHUKHSSV^P[[VOLH[\W
44 Omagazine.com1\UL
4LHU^OPSL ILNPU YVSSPUN [OL RVM[H I` [HRPUN
H ZTHSS HTV\U[ VM [OL TLH[ TP_[\YL HIV\[
[OL ZPaL VM H WPUN WVUN IHSS HUK YVSS P[ PU[V
H ZTVV[O IHSS [OLU W\[ P[ PU [OL MY`PUN WHU
HUK MY` MVY HIV\[ TPU\[LZ VU LHJO
ZPKL VY \U[PS UPJLS` IYV^ULK HUK JVVRLK
[OYV\NO 2LLW HKKPUN TVYL HUK TVYL IHSSZ
HZ `V\ THRL [OLT JVVRPUN PU IH[JOLZ
PM ULJLZZHY` 2LLW [OL JVVRLK RVM[H ^HYT
PU [OL V]LU VU H IHRPUN [YH`^OPSL`V\MY`
Z\IZLX\LU[ IH[JOLZ
:LHZVU [OL `VN\Y[ ^P[O ZHS[ HUK WLWWLY
0M [OL `VN\Y[ PZ [VV [OPJR MVY KYPaaSPUN [OPU P[
KV^U \ZPUN H SP[[SL VSP]L VPSHUK[HISLZWVVU
^H[LY VY SLTVU Q\PJL
(YYHUNL [OL RVM[H VU H SHYNL WSH[[LY HUK
WV\Y V]LY H NLULYV\Z KYPaaSL VM [OL ZLHZVULK
`VN\Y[ MVSSV^LK I` H KYPaaSL VM Z^LL[
[HTHYPUK WHZ[L SL[ P[ KV^U ^P[O H SP[[SL ^H[LY
PM ULLKLK HUK H ZWYPURSPUN VM UPNLSSH ZLLKZ
0UZLY[ H ^VVKLUZRL^LYPU[VLHJOTLH[IHSS
HUKZLY]L
COOK’S NOTES
Have a bowl of water next to you when rolling
the kofta and keep your hands moist. This will
stop the mix from sticking to your hands and
keep the koftas nicely formed and smooth.
Marinated scallops with lime,
chilli and shallot dressing
20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
0M `V\ I\` YLHSS` MYLZO ZJHSSVWZ [OLYL
PZ UV ULLK [V JVVR [OLT ;OLPY KLSPJH[L
Z^LL[ MSLZO PZ KLSPJPV\Z YH^ HUK ^P[O
H ZPTWSL KYLZZPUN [OL` JHU JHYY`ZVTL
WYL[[`L_WSVZP]LMSH]V\YZ
scallops SHYNL HUK ]LY`MYLZO
JVYHSZYVL YLTV]LK
+9,::05.
sumac [ZW
lime aLZ[LKHUKQ\PJLK
olive oil
dill ZWYPNZ MYVUKZHUKZ[LTZ
MPULS` JOVWWLK
shallots YV\UK MPULS` KPJLK
red chilli SVUN ZLLKLKHUKMPULS`KPJLK
caster sugar[ZW
<ZPUN H ZOHYW RUPML J\[ LHJO ZJHSSVW [OPUS`
PU[V ZSPJLZ HUK W\[ [OLT PU H IV^S ;V
THRL [OL KYLZZPUN TP_ [OL Z\THJ ^P[O [OL
SPTL aLZ[ HUK Q\PJL HUK [IZW VPS PU H ZTHSS
IV^S (KK [OL KPSS ZOHSSV[Z JOPSSP HUK Z\NHY
HUK Z[PY ]PNVYV\ZS` \U[PS [OL Z\NHY KPZZVS]LZ
7V\Y [OL KYLZZPUN V]LY [OL ZJHSSVWZ JVH[PUN
LHJO ZSPJL ^LSS (YYHUNL VU H WSH[[LY WV\Y
V]LYHU`YLTHPUPUNKYLZZPUNHUKZLY]L
COOK
marinated scallops
with lime chilli and
shallot dressing W
1\UL Omagazine.com
45
Chargrilled squid with
grapefruit, herbs and
pomegranate seeds W
46 Omagazine.com1\UL
COOK
Orange, thyme and
spice chicken wings
W
1\UL Omagazine.com
47
COOK
Chargrilled squid with
grapefruit, herbs and
pomegranate seeds
Orange, thyme and
spice chicken wings
30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
0 YLHSS` SPRL [OPZ MY\P[` THYPUHKL ^OPJO OHZ
H SP[[SL ZWPJL HUK [O`TL [V OLSW YV\UK VMM [OL
MSH]V\Y ;OL SVUNLY `V\ THYPUH[L [OL JOPJRLU
^PUNZ [OL IL[[LY [OL` ^PSS [HZ[L 0M `V\ HYL
HU`[OPUN SPRL TL `V\»SS KV\ISL [OL IH[JO
HUKJVU[PU\LLH[PUN[OLT[OLUL_[KH`
baby squid NJSLHULKHUKZSPJLKPU[V
JT YPUNZ
olive oil MVY KYPaaSPUN
pul biber ;\YRPZO JOPSSP MSHRLZ[ZWVYQ\Z[
\ZL YLN\SHY JOPSSP MSHRLZ
ruby red grapefruit SHYNL
mint H I\UJO SLH]LZ YV\NOS` JOVWWLK
chives H I\UJO ZUPWWLK PU[V JT Z[YPWZ
chervil VY corianderHI\UJOSLH]LZ
YV\NOS` JOVWWLK
pomegranate seeds N
/LH[ H NYPKKSL WHU VY OLH]`IHZLK MY`PUN
WHU V]LY H TLKP\TOPNO OLH[ 7\[ [OL ZX\PK
PU H IV^S KYPaaSL NLULYV\ZS` ^P[O VSP]L VPS
HKK [OL JOPSSP MSHRLZ HUK H ]LY` NLULYV\Z
ZLHZVUPUN VM ISHJR WLWWLY HUK TP_ ^LSS
@V\»SS ULLK H ZOHYW RUPML [V WLLS [OL
NYHWLMY\P[ *\[ VMM [OL [VW HUK IHZL VM [OL
NYHWLMY\P[ [OLU J\[ H^H` [OL YLTHPUPUN WLLS
HUK WP[O PU Z[YPWZ \U[PS [OL LU[PYL NYHWLMY\P[
PZ WLLSLK *\[ IL[^LLU [OL TLTIYHULZ
V]LY H IV^S [V YLSLHZL [OL ZLNTLU[Z[OLU
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H WSH[L HUK SLH]L [V JVVS MVY H ML^ TPU\[LZ
7\[ [OL JVVSLK ZX\PK PU[V [OL IV^S ^P[O [OL
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ZHS[ HKK H KYPaaSL VM VSP]L VPS HUK TP_ [V JVH[
(KK [OL MYLZO OLYIZ HUK WVTLNYHUH[L
ZLLKZTP_^LSSHUKZLY]LPTTLKPH[LS`
9LJPWLZ MYVT :PYVJJV
I` :HIYPUH .OH`V\Y
4P[JOLSS)LHaSL`
48 Omagazine.com1\UL
1 HOUR + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASY
chicken wingsRN
4(905(+,
fresh orange juice TS
marmalade [IZW
dried thyme OLHWLK [ZW
ground cinnamon OLHWLK [ZW
ground turmeric OLHWLK[ZW
cayenne pepper [ZW
garlic MH[ JSV]LZJY\ZOLK
olive oil[IZW
7\[ [OL JOPJRLU ^PUNZ PU H SHYNL IV^S 4P_
[OL THYPUHKL PUNYLKPLU[Z PU H ZTHSS IV^S
ZLHZVU ^LSS [OLU WV\Y [OL TP_[\YL V]LY [OL
JOPJRLU ^PUNZ <ZPUN `V\Y OHUKZ THZZHNL
[OL THYPUHKL PU[V [OL JOPJRLU ^PUNZ [OLU
JV]LY [OL IV^S ^P[O JSPUNMPST HUK JOPSS MVY
H[ SLHZ[ OV\YZ VY L]LU IL[[LY V]LYUPNO[
>OLU `V\»YL YLHK` [V JVVR IYPUN [OL
JOPJRLU ^PUNZ [V YVVT [LTWLYH[\YL /LH[
[OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ 3PUL
H SHYNL IHRPUN [YH` ^P[O IHRPUN WHWLY
7\[ [OL JOPJRLU ^PUNZ VU [OL WYLWHYLK
IHRPUN [YH` YLZLY]L [OL L_JLZZ THYPUHKL
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TPU\[LZ ;\YU V]LY [OL JOPJRLU ^PUNZ
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¶ PM P[ ILJVTLZ [VV [OPJR SL[ P[ KV^U ^P[O
HSP[[SL^H[LYHUKZLY]LP[VU[OLZPKL
Make your own
Bakewell
tart
Create a classic British
bake with step-by-step
help from O’s
test kitchen
Recipe ANNA GLOVER
Photographs TONY BRISCOE
1½ HOURS + CHILLING | SERVES 8 | A LITTLE EFFORT
7YPJRPUN [OL WHZ[Y` IHZL ^P[O H MVYR HSVUN ^P[O
\ZPUN IHRPUN ILHUZ LUZ\YLZ [OL WHZ[Y` KVLZU»[
KVTL ^OLU ISPUKIHRPUN )Y\ZOPUN ^P[O LNN
^OP[L ZLHSZ [OL QHT PU ZV `V\ ^VU»[ OH]L SLHRZ
;Y` [OPZ YLJPWL ^P[O V[OLY ZLHZVUHS MY\P[Z Z\JO
HZZ[YH^ILYYPLZVYJOLYYPLZPM`V\SPRL
flaked almonds 2-4 tbsp
icing sugar to serve
PASTRY
plain flour 275g, plus more for dusting
unsalted butter 150g, cold and cubed
golden caster sugar 75g
egg 1, lightly beaten plus 1 egg white
lemon ½, zested
FRANGIPANE
unsalted butter 125g, softened
golden caster sugar 125g
almond extract 5 drops
eggs 2, lightly beaten
ground almonds 150g
plain flour 50g
milk 1 tbsp
FRESH RASPBERRY JAM
raspberries 150g
caster sugar 50g
lemon juice 1 tbsp
1. To make the pastry, sift the flour into a bowl,
add a pinch of salt and the cubed butter, and
rub together with your fingertips until it
resembles crumbs.
50 Omagazine.com June 2016
Psst....
Share your photo on
Twitter, our Facebook
page or Instagram
#Omagrecipes
– we’d love to see
your results
2. Add the sugar, whole egg and
lemon zest. Mix everything together with
a knife, and then get your hands involved.
Knead everything together quickly until it
forms a ball. (Alternatively you can pulse in
a food processor.) Wrap in clingflim and leave
to chill for 1 hour.
3. To make the jam, put the raspberries, sugar
and lemon juice in a small pan. Bring to a
simmer, and keep bubbling until the
raspberries lose their shape and turn into
a sticky jam, about 8 minutes. Stir frequently
with a wooden spoon. Strain through a sieve,
discarding the seeds, then leave to cool.
4. Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.
Roll the chilled pastry out on a lightly floured
surface to about 3mm thick. Use to line a
22cm fluted tart tin about 3cm deep. Roll the
rolling pin over the top of the tart to trim the
pastry crust. Prick the base all over with a fork.
5. Line the pastry with a scrunched up piece
of baking paper, then fill with baking beans or
uncooked rice. Blind bake for 15 minutes.
Remove the beans and paper and bake for
another 5 minutes until the pastry looks dry
and lightly golden. Brush with the egg white
while still hot, and allow to cool. To make the
frangipane, beat the butter, sugar and almond
extract together. Add one egg, and beat again.
Add a spoonful of ground almonds to help
the egg bind, then add the remaining egg
with another tbsp of almonds and beat until
incorporated. Mix in the remaining ground
almonds and flour. If the mix is a little stiff,
add the milk and whisk again.
6. Spread the jam in an even layer over the
pastry case with the back of a spoon or
spatula. If the jam has stiffened a little while
cooled, mix vigorously to loosen.
7. Spoon the frangipane over the jam,
spreading it out evenly. Bake for 20 minutes.
8. Scatter with the flaked almonds and bake
for another 5-10 minutes until the frangipane
is risen and golden. A skewer poked into
the frangipane should come out clean.
9. Cool, dust with a little icing sugar and serve
with cream or custard.
PER SERVING 707 KCALS | FAT 43.2G | SATURATES 19.6G
CARBS 65.2G | SUGARS 33.6G | FIBRE 2.3G
PROTEIN 13.1G | SALT 0.1G
STYLING: JENNY IGGLEDEN. FOOD STYLING: ANNA GLOVER
Bakewell tart
1
COOK
2
3
4
6
5
9
7 8
June 2016 Omagazine.com
51
Cook everyday
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LKP[VY YLZJ\L `V\ MYVT `V\Y YLJPWL
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9LJPWLZ 1(505, 9(;*30--,
7OV[VNYHWOZ;65@)90:*6,
52 Omagazine.com1\UL
COOK
Posh fish finger sandwiches
20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
haddock VY cod goujons N WHJR
brioche-style buns[VHZ[LK
rocket N
;(9;(9, :(<*,
shallot KPJLK
capers [IZW JOVWWLK
cornichons MPULS` KPJLK
Dijon mustard ë [ZW
mayonnaise [IZW
lemon ñ
;V THRL [OL [HY[HYL ZH\JL TP_ L]LY`[OPUN
^P[O H ZX\LLaL VM SLTVU HUK ZLHZVU ^LSS
.YPSS VY IHRL [OL NV\QVUZ MVSSV^PUN [OL WHJR
PUZ[Y\J[PVUZ :WYLHK [OL IV[[VT VM [OL I\UZ
^P[O OHSM [OL ZH\JL [OLU HKK [OL YVJRL[ 7PSL
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[HY[HYLZH\JLHUK[OLI\U[VWZ
:;@305.!1,55@0..3,+,5-66+:;@305.!2(;@.9,,5>66+
PER SERVING 698 KCALS | FAT 55G | SATURATES 7G
CARBS 26.9G | SUGARS 9.5G | FIBRE 1.7G
PROTEIN 23G | SALT 1.4G
Brick chicken with
herb butter
40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
;OPZ PZ \Z\HSS` KVUL ^P[O H ZWH[JOJVJRLK
JOPJRLU I\[ P[ ^VYRZ ^LSS ^P[O JOPJRLU SLNZ
[VV >LPNO[PUN [OL JOPJRLU KV^U ^OPSL
JVVRPUN JYPZWZ \W[OLZRPUHUKJVVRZ
P[T\JOMHZ[LY
whole chicken legs
olive oil
garlicJSV]LZ\UWLLSLK
thyme ZWYPNZ
butter N
tarragon H ZTHSS OHUKM\S JOVWWLK
flat-leaf parsleyHZTHSSOHUKM\SJOVWWLK
:HS[ [OL JOPJRLU SLNZ /LH[ H OLH]`
V]LUWYVVM MY`PUN WHU ^P[O H SP[[SL VPS [OLU W\[
[OL SLNZ PU ZRPUZPKL KV^U (KK [OL NHYSPJ
HUK [O`TL ZWYPNZ :SPW V]LY H ZOLL[ VM MVPS
[OLU W\[ HUV[OLY OLH]` WHU VU [VW ZV P[
JV]LYZ HUK ^LPNOZ KV^U [OL JOPJRLU (KK
ZVTL^LPNO[[V[OL[VWHIYPJR^YHWWLKPU
MVPS PZ WLYMLJ[ V[OLY^PZL \ZL [PU JHUZ
;\YU [OL OLH[ KV^UHUKRLLWJVVRPUNMVY
TPU\[LZ
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
;HRL VMM [OL IYPJR [VW WHU HUK MVPS ;\YU
[OL JOPJRLU [OLU W\[ PU [OL V]LU MVY HUV[OLY
TPU\[LZ 4HZO [OL I\[[LY HUK OLYIZ HUK
HKK[V[OLWHUMVY[OLSHZ[ TPU\[LZ
PER SERVING 658 KCALS | FAT 54.3G | SATURATES 22G
CARBS 1.6G | SUGARS 0.3G | FIBRE 0.6G
PROTEIN 40.6G | SALT 0.G
1\UL Omagazine.com
53
Salami, garlic greens
and taleggio pizza
40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
ciabatta bread mix N
olive oil
onion ZTHSS MPULS` ZSPJLK
garlic JSV]LZ JY\ZOLK
kale N [OPJR Z[HSRZ KPZJHYKLK
plain flour MVY K\Z[PUN
mascarpone [IZW
taleggio N ZSPJLK
salami WHJRHIV\[ N
54 Omagazine.com1\UL
4HRL \W [OL JPHIH[[H IYLHK TP_ MVSSV^PUN
WHJR PUZ[Y\J[PVUZ HKKPUN [IZW VSP]L VPS
HUK ñ [ZW ZHS[ *V]LY HUKSLH]LPUH^HYT
WSHJL MVY TPU\[LZ
4LHU^OPSL MY` [OL VUPVU HUK NHYSPJ NLU[S`
PU [IZW VPS 9V\NOS` JOVW [OL RHSL [OLU Z[PY
PU[V [OL VUPVU ^P[O H ZWSHZO VM ^H[LY HUK
JVVR \U[PS [OL RHSL PZ^PS[LKHUK[OL^H[LY
OHZ L]HWVYH[LK
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
9VSS [OL KV\NO V\[ VU H MSV\YLK Z\YMHJL 3PM[
VU[V H IHRPUN ZOLL[ K\Z[LK ^P[O H SP[[SL MSV\Y
:WYLHK[OLTHZJHYWVULV]LY[OLKV\NO
:WVVU V]LY [OL RHSL TP_[\YL [OLU ZJH[[LY
^P[O [OL [HSLNNPV HUK MPUPZO ^P[O [OL ZHSHTP
:LHZVU HUK IHRL MVY TPU\[LZVY\U[PS
[OLWPaaHIHZLPZJYPZW
PER SERVING 732 KCALS | FAT 50.8G | SATURATES 22.7G
CARBS 38.4G | SUGARS 4G | FIBRE 2.3G
PROTEIN 29.1G | SALT 5.3G
COOK
Bacon, egg and
new potato caesar
20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
baby new potatoes N
streaky bacon ZSPJLZ
romaine lettuce ZTHSS OLHKJOVWWLK
eggs WVHJOLK [V ZLY]L
chives H OHUKM\SJOVWWLK
+9,::05.
half-fat crème fraîche [IZW
Dijon mustard [ZW
Worcestershire sauce [ZW
garlic JSV]L JY\ZOLK
parmesan N MPULS`NYH[LK
lemon Q\PJLK
*VVR [OL UL^ WV[H[VLZ PU IVPSPUN ZHS[LK
^H[LY \U[PS [LUKLY HIV\[ TPU\[LZ [OLU
KYHPU HUK JVVS .YPSS [OL IHJVU \U[PS JYPZW
4P_ [OL JYuTL MYHzJOL +PQVU T\Z[HYK
>VYJLZ[LYZOPYL ZH\JL NHYSPJ HUK WHYTLZHU
^P[O H ZX\LLaL VM SLTVU Q\PJLHUKHZWSHZO
VM ^H[LY [OLU ZLHZVU
;VZZ [OL WV[H[VLZ HUK SL[[\JL ^P[O [OL
KYLZZPUN HUK KP]PKL IL[^LLU WSH[LZ ;VW
^P[O [OL IHJVU IYVRLU PU[V WPLJLZHULNN
HUKHZWYPURSPUNVMJOP]LZ
PER SERVING 473 KCALS | FAT 32.4G | SATURATES 16.5G
CARBS 17.1G | SUGARS 5.9G | FIBRE 5.1G
PROTEIN 24.8G | SALT 3.2G
1\UL Omagazine.com
55
Apple som tum
20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
;YHKP[PVUHSS` [OPZ MSH]V\YWHJRLK SV^JHS ;OHP
ZHSHK \ZLZ NYLLU WHWH`H I\[ P[ JHU IL OHYK
[VMPUK:^HW^P[OHWWSLSPRLOLYLPUZ[LHK
green-skinned apples
lime Q\PJLK
green beans N[YPTTLKHUKJ\[PU[V
ZOVY[ SLUN[OZ
coriander leaves H OHUKM\S
roasted peanuts [IZWYV\NOS`JOVWWLK
+9,::05.
garlic ñ JSV]L JY\ZOLK
red chilli MPULS` JOVWWLK
fish sauce ñ [IZW
light muscovado sugar [IZW
lime Q\PJLK
*VYL HUK ZSPJL [OL HWWSLZ [OPUS` [OLU
[VZZ ^P[O [OL SPTL Q\PJL :[PY[OLKYLZZPUN
PUNYLKPLU[Z [VNL[OLY
+YVW [OL ILHUZ PU[V H WHU VM IVPSPUN ^H[LY HUK
JVVR MVY TPU\[LZ KYHPU HUK YPUZL \UKLY JVSK
^H[LY +YHPU ^LSS HUK J\[ PU OHSM SLUN[O^H`Z
;PW [OL ILHUZ HUK KYLZZPUN VU[V [OL
HWWSLZ ;VZZ ^P[O [OL JVYPHUKLYHUKZLY]L
ZJH[[LYLK^P[O[OLWLHU\[Z
PER SERVING 263 KCALS | FAT 11.9G | SATURATES 2.2G
CARBS 26.4G | SUGARS 23.6G | FIBRE 5.1GG
PROTEIN 10G | SALT 2.7G
Potted shrimp on toast
with pickled cucumber
20 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY
white wine vinegar [IZW
caster sugar [IZW
cucumber OHS]LK SLUN[O^H`Z
ZLLKLK WLLSLK HUK ZSPJLK
sourdough ZSPJLZ
potted shrimp [\I
baby watercress H OHUKM\S
cayenneHWPUJO
56 Omagazine.com1\UL
7\[ [OL ]PULNHY HUK Z\NHY PU H ZTHSS
WHU :PTTLY NLU[S` MVY H ML^ TPU\[LZ \U[PS
[OL Z\NHY KPZZVS]LZ*VVS[OLU[VZZ^P[O
[OL J\J\TILY
;VHZ[ [OL IYLHK >HYT [OL ZOYPTW ZV [OL
I\[[LY TLS[Z 7PSL [OL ZOYPTW VU[V [OL [VHZ[
^P[O [OL ^H[LYJYLZZ (KK H WPUJO VM JH`LUUL
HUKZLY]L[OLJ\J\TILYVU[OLZPKL
PER SERVING 670 KCALS | FAT 19.7G | SATURATES 9.6G
CARBS 97.7G | SUGARS 44.5G | FIBRE 4.3G
PROTEIN 23.2G | SALT 2.4G
COOK
made ea
i
a
h
T
sy!
1\UL Omagazine.com
57
COOK
Cheat’s lasagne
40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
garlic JSV]LJY\ZOLK
olive oil
chopped tomatoes N [PU
basil H ZTHSS OHUKM\S JOVWWLK
beef and red wine ravioliWHJR
HIV\[ N
mascarpone [IZW
parmesan [IZWNYH[LKWS\ZL_[YH
MVY [OL [VW
mozzarella HZTHSSIHSSZSPJLK
*VVR [OL NHYSPJ PU [IZW VSP]L VPS MVY
H JV\WSL VM TPU\[LZ [OLU [PW PU [OL
[VTH[VLZ :PTTLY MVY TPU\[LZ \U[PS
[OPJRLULK:LHZVUHUKZ[PYPU[OLIHZPS
58 Omagazine.com1\UL
*VVR [OL YH]PVSP PU IVPSPUN ^H[LY \U[PS HSTVZ[
[LUKLY I\[ KYHPU ILMVYL P[»Z KVUL HZ P[ ^PSS
RLLW JVVRPUN PU [OL V]LU 4P_ [OL
THZJHYWVUL HUK WHYTLZHU
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
6PS H ZTHSS IHRPUN KPZO :WVVU H SP[[SL [VTH[V
ZH\JL PU [OL IV[[VT HKK H SH`LY VM YH]PVSP
[OLU KVSSVW V]LY OHSM [OL THZJHYWVUL TP_
(KK TVYL [VTH[V ZH\JL [OL YLZ[ VM [OL
YH]PVSP [OLU [VW ^P[O [OL YLTHPUPUN [VTH[V
ZH\JL HUK THZJHYWVUL 3H` TVaaHYLSSH VU
HUK ZWYPURSL V]LY H IP[ TVYL WHYTLZHU )HRL
MVYTPU\[LZ\U[PSNVSKLUHUKI\IISPUN
PER SERVING 751 KCALS | FAT 47.8G
SATURATES 25.2G | CARBS 49.3G | SUGARS 11.1G
FIBRE 4.7G | PROTEIN 28.5G | SALT 1.8G
COOK
4HRL H IH[JO VM V\Y TPUP
JY\TISLZ ^OPJO `V\ JHU
JVVR Z[YHPNO[ MYVT[OLMYLLaLY
9LJPWL (55( .36=,9
7OV[VNYHWO46>0,2(@
Cinnamon gooseberry crumbles
1 HOUR + FREEZING | SERVES 6 | EASY
:;@305.!630=0(>(9+3,-66+:;@305.!*/36,90+,
gooseberries N Z[HSRZYLTV]LK
mixed spice H WPUJO
soft light brown sugar N
vanilla ice cream[VZLY]L
*9<4)3,
plain flour N
rolled oats N
baking powder [ZW
ground cinnamon [ZW
ground ginger [ZW
butter N ZVM[LULK
demerara sugar N
7\[ [OL NVVZLILYYPLZ TP_LK ZWPJL HUK Z\NHY
PU H WHU HUK JVVR NLU[S` \U[PS [OL NVVZLILYYPLZ
Z[HY[ [V I\YZ[ HUK ZVM[LU HIV\[ TPU\[LZ
9LTV]L MYVT [OL OLH[
-VY [OL JY\TISL [PW [OL MSV\Y HUK VH[Z PU[V
H SHYNL TP_PUN IV^S (KK [OL IHRPUN WV^KLY
JPUUHTVU NPUNLY HUK I\[[LY HUK SPNO[S` Y\I
[OL I\[[LY PU[V [OL TP_ ^P[O `V\Y
MPUNLY[PWZ \U[PS P[ SVVRZ SPRL
IYLHKJY\TIZ (KK [OL
KLTLYHYH Z\NHY HUK TP_
:WVVU [OL NVVZLILYYPLZ
PU[V V]LUWYVVM YHTLRPUZ
:WYPURSL V]LY [OL JY\TISL
>YHW PUKP]PK\HSS` PU JSPUNMSPT
HUK MYLLaL ;OL` ^PSS RLLW PU
[OL MYLLaLY MVY \W [V TVU[OZ
;V JVVR OLH[ [OL V]LU [V *
MHU *NHZ 9LTV]L [OL JSPUNMPST HUK
JVVR [OL JY\TISLZ MVY TPU\[LZ MYVT
MYVaLU VY TPU\[LZ MYVT [OH^LK \U[PS
WPWPUN OV[ \ZL H TL[HS ZRL^LY [V JOLJR HUK
[OLJY\TISLPZNVSKLU:LY]L^P[OPJLJYLHT
PER SERVING 396 KCALS | FAT 13.5G | SATURATES 7.8G
CARBS 61.3G | SUGARS 37.1G | FIBRE 5.3G
PROTEIN 4.6G | SALT 0.5G
1\UL Omagazine.com
59
Feeling
Tired?
With busy lives,more of us are looking to
support energy release and vitality,with an
iron supplement that is easy on the stomach
and tastes great too.
Feroglobin® Liquid – a delicious honey and orange
flavour liquid with gentle iron which contributes
to normal formation of red blood cells and
haemoglobin and normal energy release.
Feroglobin® Capsules - a gentle iron supplement,
in capsule form with zinc and vitamin B12,
formulated to deliver an ideal amount of iron to
the body while remaining gentle on the stomach.
With iron, folate, vit.B12
which support the reduction of
tiredness & fatigue
DELICIOUS LIQUID
CAPSULES
ADFERCONP 04-05-16E
From
supermarkets,pharmacies,health stores
and www.vitabiotics.com
*Source: Nielsen GB ScanTrack Total Coverage Unit Sales 52 w/e 26th March 2016.
3CHERRIES
WAYS WITH
COOK
;\YU L]LY`KH` PUNYLKPLU[Z
PU[V ZVTL[OPUN ZWLJPHS
^P[O [OLZL JSL]LY YLJPWLZ
9LJPWLZ :(9(/ *662
7OV[VNYHWOZ:;<(9;>,:;
Goat’s curd, pickled
cherry and pecan toasts
25 MINUTES + DRAINING | MAKES 4 | EASY
VEGETARIAN
:;@305.!16/(990:-66+:;@305.!(55(.36=,9
full-fat goat’s milk yogurt TS
red wine vinegar TS
golden caster sugar N
pink peppercorns ñ [ZW
caraway seeds[ZW
bay leaf
runny honey [IZW
cherries N WP[[LK
pumpernickel VY rye sourdough bread
[OPJR ZSPJLZ
pecans NIYVRLUPU[VWPLJLZ
;OL UPNO[ ILMVYL `V\ ^HU[ [V LH[ W\[
H ZPL]L V]LY H IV^S HUK SPUL ^P[O VUL ZOLL[
VM T\ZSPU VY H JSLHU 1JSV[O :WVVU PU [OL
`VN\Y[ HUK ZP[ P[ PU [OL MYPKNL V]LYUPNO[ VY MVY
\W [V OV\YZ ;OL L_JLZZ ^H[LY ^PSS KYHPU
V\[ HUK [OL TP_ ^PSS [OPJRLU [V THRL H J\YK
7\[ [OL ]PULNHY HUK Z\NHY PU H ZTHSS
WHU ^P[O TS VM ^H[LY )HZO [OL
WLWWLYJVYUZ H ML^ [PTLZ [V JY\ZO SPNO[S`
HUK HKK [OLZL [V [OL WHU ^P[O [OL
JHYH^H` ZLLKZ HUK IH` SLHM *VVR V]LY
H SV^ OLH[ [OLU VUJL [OL Z\NHY PZ
KPZZVS]LK IYPUN [V H NLU[SL ZPTTLY HUK
I\IISL MVY TPU\[LZ \U[PS YLK\JLK I` OHSM
:[PY PU [OL OVUL` HUK JOLYYPLZ [OLU WV\Y
PU[V H QHY ZV [OL JOLYYPLZ HYL HSS M\SS` JV]LYLK
PU [OL WPJRSPUN SPX\PK HUK SLH]L [V JVVS
;OL UL_[ KH` KPZJHYK [OL SPX\PK [OH[ OHZ
KYHPULK MYVT [OL `VN\Y[HUKZLHZVU[OL
[OPJRLULK `VN\Y[
+YHPU [OL JOLYYPLZ PM `V\ SPRL `V\ JHU
YLK\JL ZVTL VM [OL WPJRSPUNSPX\VYHUK
\ZL [OPZ MVY KYPaaSPUN
;VHZ[ [OL IYLHK JVVS MVY H TPU\[L [OLU
ZWYLHK [OPJRS` ^P[O [OL NVH[»Z J\YK :WYPURSL
V]LY [OL WPJRSLK JOLYYPLZHUKWLJHUZHUK
LH[PTTLKPH[LS`
PER SERVING 348 KCALS | FAT 14.3G | SATURATES 3.7G
CARBS 42.2G | SUGARS 21.1G | FIBRE 4.8G
PROTEIN 10.2G | SALT 0.8G
1\UL Omagazine.com
61
Upside-down cherry-rose
cake with clotted cream
milk [IZW
clotted cream VY crème fraîche[VZLY]L
1 HOUR 15 MINUTES + COOLING | SERVES 8-10 | EASY
butter N ZVM[LULK
cherry jam N
cherries N WP[[LK
golden caster sugar N
medium eggs
plain flour N
baking powder [ZW
ground almonds N
rose water [ZW
lemonaLZ[LKWS\Z[IZWQ\PJL
62 Omagazine.com1\UL
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
:WYLHK N VM [OL ZVM[LULK I\[[LY V]LY [OL
IHZL VM H JT ZWYPUNMVYT JHRL [PU [OLU
ZWYLHK [OL QHT VU [VW (YYHUNL [OL JOLYYPLZ
PU H ZPUNSL SH`LY ZV [OL`»YL [PNO[S` WHJRLK
-VY [OL IH[[LY W\[ [OL YLTHPUPUN N VM
I\[[LY PU H IPN TP_PUN IV^S ^P[O [OL Z\NHY
HUK ILH[ ^P[O HU LSLJ[YPJ ^OPZR \U[PS WHSL
HUK MS\MM` )LH[ PU [OL LNNZ VUL H[ H [PTL
[OLU [PW PU [OL MSV\Y IHRPUN WV^KLY HSTVUKZ
YVZL^H[LYSLTVUaLZ[HUKQ\PJLHUKTPSR
:[PY \U[PS ZTVV[O [OLU NLU[S` ZWVVU V]LY [OL
JOLYYPLZ )HRL MVY OV\Y VY \U[PS H ZRL^LY
WVRLK PU[V [OL JLU[YL JVTLZ V\[ JSLHU
3L[ [OL JHRL JVVS MVY TPU\[LZ PU [OL [PU
[OLU ZP[ H ZLY]PUN WSH[L VU [VW HUK PU]LY[ [V
[\YU V\[ [OL JHRL ,H[ ^HYT VY JVSK J\[ PU[V
^LKNLZ HUK ZLY]LK ^P[OJSV[[LKJYLHT
VYJYuTLMYHzJOL
PER SERVING (10) 490 KCALS | FAT 28.3G
SATURATES 14.1G | CARBS 50.3G | SUGARS 34.6G
FIBRE 1.5G | PROTEIN 7.8G | SALT 0.7G
COOK
Overnight bircher
muesli with cherries,
peach and coconut
15 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 3 | EASY | VEGAN
rolled oats N
desiccated coconut NWS\ZHZWYPURSL
L_[YH [V ZLY]L
coconut water TS
apple, peach HUK pear juice TS
VY H ZPTPSHY Q\PJL ^P[O ZVTL WLHJO PU P[
dairy-free coconut yogurt N
agave syrup [IZW WS\ZHUL_[YHKYPaaSL
[V ZLY]L PM `V\ SPRL
chia seeds [IZW
pumpkin seeds [IZW
cherries N OHS]LK HUK WP[[LK
ripe peach VY nectarine Z[VULKHUK
JO\URPS`KPJLK
4P_ [VNL[OLY [OL VH[Z JVJVU\[ JVJVU\[
^H[LY Q\PJL `VN\Y[ HNH]L HUK JOPH ZLLKZ
3LH]L V]LYUPNO[ VY MVY H[ SLHZ[ OV\Y
;V LH[ Z[PY [OYV\NO TVZ[ VM [OL W\TWRPU
ZLLKZ HUK OHSM [OL JOLYYPLZ WS\Z H ZWSHZO
TVYL Q\PJL PM `V\ SPRL P[ JYLHTPLY +P]PKL
IL[^LLU [OYLL IV^SZ [OLU ZJH[[LY [OL
YLTHPUPUN JOLYYPLZ WLHJO HUK W\TWRPU
ZLLKZ VU [VW ^P[O H WPUJO TVYL JVJVU\[
HUKKYPaaSLVMHNH]LPM`V\SPRL
PER SERVING 456 KCALS | FAT 23.1G
SATURATES 14.3G | CARBS 44.2G
SUGARS 16.5G | FIBRE 9.2G
PROTEIN 13.3G | SALT 0.1G
1\UL Omagazine.com
63
TS
ET
ABLE PL A
N
L
VE
G
E 5 LIT
R
E
G
AR
Already
producing
fruit!
Peppers, Aubergines and Tomatoes
All available as large 5 litre plants
Unsurprisingly
Suttons...
As seed purveyors since 1806 it’s no surprise we have all the gardener’s
favourite seeds, together with a 5 litre potted plant range that will allow you
to create an ’instant’ veg garden with plants already starting to produce fruit ideal for small space urban growing!
BY APPOINTMENT TO
HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN
SEEDSMEN
SUTTONS CONSUMER
PRODUCTS LIMITED, DEVON
Also available at B&Q and Waitrose stores
www.suttons.co.uk 0844 326 2200
COOK
:;@305.!1,55@0..3,+,5-66+:;@305.!(55(.36=,9
9LJPWLZ (55( .36=,9
7OV[VNYHWOZ;65@)90:*6,
No-churn banana
ice cream W
HEALTHY choices
O»Z JVVRLY`
^YP[LY (UUH
.SV]LY ZOHYLZ
OLY HWWYVHJO
[V OLHS[O` SP]PUN
^P[O SV^JHSVYPL
SV^MH[ HUK
NS\[LUMYLL
YLJPWLZ PUJS\KPUN
[HUKVVYP SHTI
Z[LHRZ HUK
H JOPJRLU JHZOL^
ZHSHK MVY VUL
1\UL Omagazine.com
65
Healthy
trend
No-churn banana ice cream
15 MINUTES + FREEZING | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGAN
+HPY`MYLL UVJO\YU UVLMMVY[ PJL JYLHT
7S\ZP[»ZOLHS[O`>OH[»ZUV[[VSV]L&
ripe bananas
almond VY coconut milk HZWSHZOVW[PVUHS
;6 :,9=, VW[PVUHS
maple syrup ground cinnamon toasted
pecans banana slices
7LLS HUK ZSPJL [OL IHUHUHZ :WYLHK VU[V
H IHRPUN WHWLY SPULK [YH` HUK MYLLaL MVY
OV\YZ VY \U[PS ZVSPK ;PW PU[V H MVVK
WYVJLZZVY VY SPX\PKPZLY HUK W\SZL MVY H ML^
ZLJVUKZ 0M P[ KVLZU»[ TP_ [V H ZTVV[O PJL
JYLHT HKK HSTVUK TPSR [IZW H[ H [PTL [V
MVYT PJL JYLHT @V\ TPNO[ UV[ ULLK [V \ZL
HU` TPSR KLWLUKPUN VU OV^ ZVM[ [OL
IHUHUHZ HYL :JVVW PU[V IV^SZHUK[VW
^P[O^OH[L]LY`V\SPRL
PER SERVING 171 KCALS | FAT 0.2G | SATURATES 0.1G
CARBS 38.7G | SUGARS 34.5G | FIBRE 2.8G
PROTEIN 2.2G | SALT 0G
COOK’S NOTES
Once you’re confident with the process, try
experimenting with different flavours – add
a handful of frozen berries, 2 tbsp peanut butter
or 2 tbsp raw cacao powder to the processor
before blending to get the flavours shown
in our picture above.
66 Omagazine.com 1\UL
Trout and broad bean filo tart
40 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
spray olive oil
5:2 diet
filo pastry ZOLL[Z
friendly
eggs ILH[LU
fat-free quark N
hot smoked trout N MSHRLK
broad beans N^LPNOLKHM[LY
KV\ISLWVKKPUN
dill VY chives JOVWWLK [VTHRL[IZW
pea shoots [V ZLY]L
mint leaves[VZLY]L
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ ñ
:WYH` H JT [HY[ [PU ^P[O VPS [OLU SH`LY PU
[OL MPSV ZOLL[Z ^P[O H ZWYH` VM VPS PU IL[^LLU
:JY\UJO \W [OL WHZ[Y` V]LYOHUNPUN [OL ZPKLZ
[V THRL H IVYKLY 4P_ [OL LNNZ HUK X\HYR
^P[O WSLU[` VM ZLHZVUPUN -VSK PU [OL [YV\[
IYVHK ILHUZ HUK KPSS 7V\Y PU[V [OL WHZ[Y`
JHZL HUK IHRL MVY TPU\[LZ \U[PS [OL
[HY[ PZ ZL[ I\[ Z[PSS OHZ H SP[[SL ^VIISL 3LH]L
[V JVVS [OLU ZJH[[LY V]LY H ML^WLHZOVV[Z
HUKTPU[SLH]LZ[VZLY]L
PER SERVING 184 KCALS | FAT 4.8G | SATURATES 1.1G
CARBS 19G | SUGARS 1.6G | FIBRE 3G
PROTEIN 14.5G | SALT 0.8G
COOK
Moroccan veg and
chickpea tagine
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGAN
red onion JOVWWLK
garlic JSV]LZ JOVWWLK
Low
fat
spray olive oil
ground cumin ñ [ZW
ground coriander ñ [ZW
ground cinnamon ñ [ZW
red pepper ZLLKLK HUKJOVWWLK
courgetteJOVWWLK
aubergine JOVWWLK
vine tomatoes JOVWWLK
chickpeas N [PU YPUZLK HUKKYHPULK
vegetable stock TS
harissa [IZW
prunes WP[[LK HUK ZSPJLK
flat-leaf parsley JOVWWLK [V ZLY]L
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PROTEIN 8.2G | SALT 0.3G
1\UL Omagazine.com
67
Chicken and cashew salad
15 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY
Za’atar aubergine steaks
with sesame dressing
and pomegranate
30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
olive oil [IZW
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68 Omagazine.com 1\UL
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PROTEIN 9.1G | SALT 0.7G
cooked skinless chicken
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PER SERVING 491 KCALS | FAT 23.9G | SATURATES 5G
CARBS 21.8G | SUGARS 14G | FIBRE 10.5G
PROTEIN 41.8G | SALT 1G
COOK
Tandoori lamb steaks
with chilli-spiked slaw
30 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASY
Ticks all
the boxes
√
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√
√
√
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Low fat
Low sugar
Low salt
High protein
garlic JSV]L JY\ZOLK
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PER SERVING 241 KCALS | FAT 8.8G | SATURATES 3G
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PROTEIN 25.6G | SALT 0.4G
1\UL Omagazine.com
69
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
A seriously
B
good summer
It’s sunny and warm – what more excuse do you
need for a barbecue or picnic? Take them to the next
level with new Heinz [Seriously] Good Mayonnaise
rits don’t need much encouragement when
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But why not shake things up a bit this year and
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Try Heinz [Seriously] Good Mayonnaise with this
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a premium condiment like this at the heart of your
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lease of life with a [Seriously] Good twist.
Quick hot-smoked
salmon wrap
10 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
Heinz [Seriously] Good Mayonnaise 4 tbsp
lemon juice 1 tbsp
fresh chives 10g, finely chopped
flour tortillas 4 medium
honey roast hot smoked salmon 200g
baby leaf spinach 40g
ripe avocados 2 small, sliced
cucumber 120g, cut into fingers
s Mix the Heinz [Seriously] Good Mayonnaise
with the lemon juice and chives and season.
s Spread the lemon mayonnaise over the tortilas
and divide the salmon, baby leaf spinach,
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It’s rich and creamy,
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Stephanie, East Yorkshire
For more information, visit heinz.co.uk
June
EAT
7/6;6.9(7/@6-*(:(40(!16/5)3(*2>,33
(M[LYUVVU [LH PZ IPNNLY HUK IL[[LY [OHU
L]LY MPUK V\[ ^OLYL [V NL[ P[ THZ[LY
[OL WLYMLJ[ WVYR WPL KPZJV]LY[OLQV`Z
VM,UNSPZO^PULZHUKTVYL
Our verdict on Hang Fire Southern Kitchen, Barry
Make your own summer cup | Noble Rot’s ultimate summer menu
1\UL Omagazine.com
71
Afternoon delight
0U [OPZ O»Z )YP[PZO PZZ\L ^L HYL JLSLIYH[PUN [OH[ NYLH[
UH[PVUHS PUZ[P[\[PVU ¶ HM[LYUVVU [LH /LYL HYL ZVTL VM [OL
ILZ[ WSHJLZ HJYVZZ [OL <2 [V LUQV` NYLH[ JHRLZ ZJVULZ
HUK H IYL^ HUKHZP[[\YUZV\[T\JOT\JOTVYL¯
>VYKZ;65@5(@369
72 Omagazine.com1\UL
EAT
em
g
n
e
The hidd
Oh Me Oh My, Liverpool
Liverpudlians will know LEAF, the hip Bold
Street café and arts venue. Less well known
is that it also runs a weekday grand café
in a Grade-II former bank opposite the Liver
Building. A bright, airy space of high-ceilings
and enormous windows, nattily decked-out
in vintage and modern furniture, Oh Me Oh My
is a relaxing setting in which to enjoy head baker
Matthew Rhodes’ sandwiches (the mini brioche
croque monsieur is a favourite), scones and
mini-desserts, which usually include his classy
crème brûlée. Teas are presented at the table so
guests can touch and smell them first. Try Tea
Desire’s champagne cassis, a white tea flavoured
with lemongrass and redcurrants. From
£15.95pp; ohmeohmyliverpool.co.uk
7/6;6.9(7/:!4(0+(=0+:650(5)6@:
SAVOUR
THE
MOMENT
The Royal
Crescent, Bath
Not only does The
Royal Crescent
define the term
‘Georgian splendour’,
but its afternoon tea
menus – taken in
the Dower House
Son
of a
bun
Fitzbillies, Cambridge
For nearly a century, this tearoom and bakery
– identified by its gorgeous, art deco wooden
façade – has kept Cambridge in sticky pastries.
Its squidgy Chelsea buns are legendary. In recent
years, Fitzbillies has been given a spruce
makeover by food writer Tim Hayward and his
wife Alison Wright who, while retaining key
talents (head baker Gill Abbs has been here
for 40 years), have expanded its cake selection
to include friands, florentines and the lesserspotted Japonaise – a praline meringue sandwich
(a bit like an XL macaron). Either drop in for
cake and coffee or go for the full afternoon tea,
which now features Fitzbillies’ own ceylon and
earl grey blends. Bakery from £1.80, afternoon
tea £18pp; fitzbillies.com
restaurant or its handsome gardens – offer
unusual flexibility. O editor Laura’s favourite
is the Duke of York which eases back on the
sweet treats and goes big on awesome savoury
bites, including Bath chaps beignet; mushroom
croquette with mushroom ketchup and aged
parmesan; and hay-smoked salmon, horseradish
yogurt and caviar. The smoked Chinese tea
is a good earthy partner for such rich and meaty
morsels. £34pp; royalcrescent.co.uk
»
1\UL Omagazine.com
73
Gentlemen’s
RELISH
The Spiced Pear,
Holmfirth, Yorkshire
Like its ingredients, this retro-modern
tearoom has good provenance. It’s owned by
accomplished chef Tim Bilton and run by
his wife, Adele. We have Tim to thank for
The Spiced Pear’s gentleman’s afternoon tea,
a kind of Yorkshire tapas which, alongside
the usual home-baked scones and pastries,
comes with bread ‘n’ dripping, Yorkshire
pudding filled with beef and gravy, a pork
pie and scotch egg. “All the sins,” laughs
Adele. While admiring the views over the
West Yorkshire moors, you can sip a pot
of Yorkshire Tea or a pint of Acorn’s
Yorkshire Pride ale (£3.60). £16.95pp;
thespicedpearhepworth.co.uk
The Black Swan,
Helmsley,
North Yorkshire
ULTIMATE RURAL A cluster of buildings,
THE
One Square, Edinburgh
Not only does the
Sheraton Hotel’s
bar-restaurant have a vast
collection of gins – including
the eponymous One Square,
created in Edinburgh by artisan gin-maker
Pickering’s – but, in summer, its afternoon tea
menu is given a distinct juniper twist. Pastry
chef Colin Hall uses gin-infused ingredients in
his creations and designs them to pair with the
74 Omagazine.com1\UL
botanicals in that season’s gin – this summer,
it’s No.3. A No.3 cocktail (using cardamom
and seville orange syrup, pink grapefruit
‘mist’ and coriander bitters) will be served
with afternoon tea. You can also book
a tutored tasting of four premium gins on
the side (£25pp). Designated drivers have
a choice of 13 loose-leaf teas prepared
in Russian samovars. £27pp;
onesquareedinburgh.co.uk
TEAROOM
7/6;6.9(7/! +(=0+ */(34,9:
FOR
GIN LOVERS
which date back to the
Elizabethan era, this
hotel also contains a
tearoom where manager,
Alison Souter, shares her
love of, say, Ying Zhen
Silver Needle white tea
or the Cygnet blends she
helped to develop. These are accompanied by
chef Alan O’Kane’s sandwiches and patisserie.
On sunny days, take tea in the gardens. From
£19.95pp; blackswan-helmsley.co.uk
EAT
FOR ALL
Grand Hotel, York
The polished, modish
Grand will suit all ages.
Its tea menus range from
a Hendrick’s gin special
(including a teapot of gin
‘n’ tonic) to a kids’ tea
menu that includes jam
sandwiches and jelly
(£17). Talking of the
ankle-biters, the Grand
hosts monthly Charlie &
The Chocolate Factory-inspired and Mad Hatter
tea parties. From £24.50pp; thegrandyork.co.uk
Cherwell Boathouse, Oxford
THE
FAMILY
QUINTESSENTIAL
ENGLIS
H AFTERNOON
On a fine day, this restaurant on the River
Cherwell is positively idyllic. Afternoon tea
must be booked in advance. Larger parties
(eight plus) eat in the pretty tea hut in the leafy
grounds, and individual guests can take tea in
the conservatory or on the lower boathouse
terrace (3.30pm-5.30pm). Afterwards, hire
a punt (from £16/hour) and gently work off
some of those calories navigating down the
Cherwell towards to its confluence with the
Thames. £12.50pp; cherwellboathouse.co.uk
7/6;6.9(7/!:0465+,>/<9:;
BREW
WITH A
VIEW
Cloud 23,
Manchester
The 23rd-storey view out to the
Cheshire Plain is only one attraction
of this plush cocktail lounge. Guests
can take a glass of fizz with afternoon tea
or, indeed, a four seasons tasting flight of
Pommery champagnes. Alternatively, pair your
candied pineapple scones with one of Cloud 23’s
signature cocktails. The Japanese-influenced
Mission To Manchester sees Hendrick’s gin
combined with sake, genmaicha tea syrup, yuzu
and rose water. Cream tea from £12;
cloud23bar.com
»
1\UL Omagazine.com
75
C
SSI
A
L
C
THE TIMELESS
Claridge’s, London
Afternoon tea has been a ritual here for almost
150 years and this luxurious redoubt for the rich
and royal (no flip-flops, no intrusive photography),
has turned it into an art form. In the stunning
art deco lobby, guests are treated to a parade
of perfectly rectilinear finger sandwiches, warm
scones and beautiful, tweezer-precise cakes,
delivered to linen-clad tables by staff who operate
as smoothly as a Swiss timepiece. Every detail
is exquisite. Corn-fed chicken on rye comes with
truffled mayonnaise. Chocolate choux are made
with fine Valrhona chocolate. Claridge’s even
stresses the heritage of the cucumbers (English,
organic) which, dressed with chamomile-infused
buttermilk, go into its version of that summer
classic: cucumber sandwiches. Rare Tea
Company expert Henrietta Lovell curates
Claridge’s menu of loose-leaf infusions.
From £58pp; claridges.co.uk
FOR
CADDY
CONNOISSEURS
Waterloo
Gardens
Teahouse, Cardiff
Love tea? You will be
in heaven at Waterloo.
It carries over 50, some
from farms so tiny they
only produce 100kg of
that tea each year. The
menu moves fluidly
with the seasons, but
76 Omagazine.com1\UL
FOR THE
FASHIONISTA
Balthazar, London
Not unexpectedly, when Balthazar – a New
York-take on a classic Parisian brasserie –
does afternoon tea, it brings the glamour. This
its staff are as enthusiastic about the classics,
such as jasmine pearl, as they are the freshest,
most refined white teas (created from young
leaves dried before they oxidise). Waterloo even
purifies its water and brews at four different
temperatures in its quest for perfection. Its food
is similarly fastidious. Afternoon tea is served
with homemade truffles and seasonal fruits, and
includes scones and interesting sandwiches
(green harissa chicken, Welsh cheddar and plum
chutney), which are all made to order. Excellent
cakes, too. £15pp; waterlootea.com
summer, in a very Ab Fab collab with cosmetics
brand Bobbi Brown, its patisserie has been
restyled by its pastry chef, Regis Beauregard, to
mimic BB’s best-known products. BB’s shimmer
bricks are represented as champagne-infused
rhubarb with orange and ginger cream. Its skin
foundation stick is now shortbread with passion
fruit consommé topped with a chocolate-encased
praline mousse. You can also add a Bobbi Brown
cocktail (tequila, lemon and lime, finished with
gingerbread liqueur and soda), or pick-up
a 25th anniversary Bobbi Brown lipstick, Vintage
Red (£20). From £25pp; balthazarlondon.com
EAT
The last
WORD IN LUXURY
Yauatcha, London
British afternoon tea only
dates to 1840 (its invention is
credited to a peckish Anna, the
Seventh Duchess of Bedford), but
the Chinese have been eating bitesize
dim sum with tea for thousands of years.
Soho’s slick Yauatcha offers a bang up-to-date
interpretation of dim sum. One where dishes
such as BBQ venison puffs (think: posh sausage
roll) and its long prawn and bean curd cheung
sun rolls are followed by vividly artistic
patisserie laid-out like jewellery in display
cases. Do not miss the raspberry delice,
‘chocolate pebbles’ or Yauatcha’s seasonal
macarons. The tea menu starts in the relatively
familiar foothills of jasmine green and camomile
but ascends in complexity to rare, partiallyoxidised blue teas, such as the Oriental Beauty.
Dim sum from £4.20; yauatcha.com
DIVERTING
DIM SUM
The Merchant Hotel, Belfast
A dazzling display of gilding, plasterwork
and chandeliers, dominated by its soaring
Victorian glass cupola, the Merchant Hotel’s
BEER
GEEKS’
DELIGHT
The Modern
Pantry, London
Ancestrally Danish,
born in Canada and
raised in New
Zealand, Anna
Hansen’s fusion
cooking has
a naturally panglobal scope. That
spirit of adventure
is also evident in the
Great Room restaurant serves an afternoon tea
that is similarly hi-spec. Warm scones arrive
wrapped in linen and you get a box designed
by local artist, Mark Reihill, to take home any
yuzu crèmeux choux or honey pain d’épices
macarons you cannot finish. At weekends,
classical musicians serenade diners. For
the ultimate blow-out, the hotel serves an
afternoon tea that includes beluga caviar and
a bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée, a champagne
in which multiple grapes, harvests and
vintages are blended to create what the Krug
family has dubbed its ‘symphony’. From
£22.50; themerchanthotel.com
afternoon tea at her swanky Finsbury Square
restaurant in The City. Its savoury and sweet
items glitter with unusual ingredients (lemon and
ajowan scone with clotted cream and gooseberry
jam; a Kashmiri vegetable hash with poached
quail egg, moromi miso and yuzu hollandaise)
and, in a novel twist, these can be paired with
craft beers from London brewers such as
Wildcard and Partizan. Tea is treasured here, too.
Small-batch selections from Lalani & Co. (for
instance, hand-rolled Himalayan jun chiyabari)
are infused at 42°C - 80°C to best capture their
flavours. From £25pp; themodernpantry.co.uk
Ellenborough Park,
Cheltenham
With views
across Cheltenham
racecourse and
beyond, this
15th-century manor
house turned luxury hotel
and spa knows how to throw
a good afternoon tea. And, throughout June,
it’s hosting a Royal Afternoon Tea in
celebration of HRH’s official birthday this
month. The three-tiered serving will include
meringue swans filled with fresh
strawberries, the Queen’s favourite
chocolate cake, freshly baked fruit scones,
smoked salmon, and egg mayonnaise and
cress sandwiches. Add a glass of
Champagne Billecart-Salmon for £12.
£25pp; ellenboroughpark.com
FOR
HRH
1\UL Omagazine.com
77
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reate restaurant-standard ice cream, sorbet and frozen yogurt at home
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79
EAT
u
o
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e
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O
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B
loomsbury in London acquired a quiet overachiever back
in November – the eponymous restaurant and wine bar from wine
journal, Noble Rot. Finding its home on the pretty, independent-rich
Lamb’s Conduit Street – a place that feels as London did before selfies ever
existed or a social media site’s algorithms could cause digital uproar – the
restaurant opened to strong reviews before falling into a confident rhythm.
Owned by Mark Andrew and Dan Keeling, three years after launching
their London-based magazine, Noble Rot has a short, ingredient-led menu
that has been put together with the help of Stephen Harris (chef patron
of the acclaimed Sportsman in Whitstable) and head chef Paul Weaver.
The wine is great, obviously, with a wine list that has as much attitude
Chargrilled
asparagus,
fried duck egg
and morels
25 MINUTES | SERVES 6 AS A STARTER | EASY
VEGETARIAN
asparagus spears
groundnut oil
butter
duck eggs H[ YVVT [LTWLYH[\YL
morels VY chanterelles N JSLHULK
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PER SERVING 279 KCALS | FAT 23.7G | SATURATES 10.7G
CARBS 2.1G | SUGARS 1.8G | FIBRE 2.6G
PROTEIN 13G | SALT 0.5G
82 Omagazine.com 1\UL
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as the journal itself, breaking with convention and picking bottles on merit
rather than fashion or mass appeal.
Head to the the restaurant proper, or compete for a first-come-first-served
table at the front, with its dedicated fans (actor Rupert Everett and O
friend Marina O’Loughlin were both patrons on our last visit), and peoplewatch. The slip sole and smoked butter, and wobbly warm chocolate mousse,
have become firm favourites, as has the head chef’s habit of braising in an
oxidised rare wine – but look out for plates celebrating the seasons, too.
Head chef Paul has shared this classic, easy menu, celebrating the best
of the UK’s early summer larder, especially for our British issue. Let the
lamb slow-cook while you prepare the rest of the meal. noblerot.co.uk
COOK’S NOTES
Buy morels from farmers’ markets, local
greengrocers or buy dried morels from
souschef.co.uk. You’ll need 40g dried morels
for this recipe, and to rehydrate in boiling water.
Keep the mushroom stock for a soup or risotto.
Slow-cooked
shoulder of spring
lamb, peas, broad
beans and mint
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butter N
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PER SERVING 925 KCALS | FAT 62.4G | SATURATES 28.6G
CARBS 25.6G | SUGARS 9.3G | FIBRE 8.6G
PROTEIN 51.9G | SALT 0.8G
EAT
For wine
pairing
ideas visit
O
magazine.
com
1\UL Omagazine.com
83
EAT
Strawberry tart
1½ HOURS + CHILLING | SERVES 6-8 | EASY
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84 Omagazine.com 1\UL
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PER SERVING (8) 492 KCALS | FAT 25.8G
SATURATES 14.6G CARBS 55.1G | SUGARS 30.9G
FIBRE 3.5G | PROTEIN 7.3G | SALT 0.4G
O
OFFERS
Supavtoe
£200
T
Star of Windermere
Stay at award-winning hotel and Michelin-starred restaurant, The Samling
he Samling Hotel has stunning views over Lake Windermere. Named
‘Best Hotel in the UK, Runner-Up’ in The Sunday Times Travel Awards,
and the proud holder of a Michelin Star, it’s a truly special place.
With 67 acres of land, The Samling Hotel has 11 rooms and is perfect for
a spontaneous night away, or for a celebration. Guests can pick cosy rooms
in the main house or the spacious cottage suites.
Pushing boundaries with inventive, exciting dishes, new head chef Nick
Edgar (formerly of Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons) is taking the hotel’s
restaurant to a whole new level. Past guests at The Samling are rumoured
to have included Tom Cruise, Brad Pitt and the Beckhams – this is a truly
outstanding 11-bedroom hotel. The hotel is expanding its restaurant
throughout 2016 – the hotel aims to keep disturbance to a minimum.
As a special offer, O readers can save up to £200 on the normal
tariff and will also enjoy a complimentary upgrade to the hotel’s fantastic
new tasting menu (worth £80 per head). Rates start at just £300 per
night including dinner, bed and breakfast for two if booked before
15 July 2016.*
£300
£350
£395
£440
–
–
–
–
Standard Double (£500 normal tariff)
Luxury Double (£550 normal tariff)
Junior Suite (£630 normal tariff)
Suite (£690 normal tariff)
FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO BOOK, CALL 01539 431922 QUOTING O.
Terms & conditions: *This offer is subject to availability Sunday-Thursday until 30 September 2016. Not valid in conjunction with any other offer.
Bookings must be made by 15 July 2016 to benefit from this offer. O readers will receive the early booking tariff rates. Prices include VAT.
Data Protection: Immediate Media Company Limited (publisher of O) would love to keep you informed by post, telephone, or email of its
special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking if you do not wish to receive these.
June 2016 Omagazine.com
85
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GYOZA BAR, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON
A small, minimalistic space, Gyoza Bar in Covent Garden is deliberately un-fussy
and informal. Despite its name, the restaurant offers far more than dumplings – there
are also ramen, small plates (including edamame and pork samosas) and bao buns,
everything being served when it’s ready.
The ramen wasn’t as rich or complex as you can get elsewhere in the capital, but
it was nourishing, fresh and earthy. Noodles were satisfyingly slippery and there
were generous amounts of spring onion, stem broccoli and beansprouts. Crispy
Japanese ‘chips’ came as thin slices of creamy lotus root, deep-fried and served
alongside fiery mayonnaise. Bao buns were pillowy-soft and milky, as they should
be, and ours came stuffed with prawn tempura and salad.
You can have the gyozas steamed, deep-fried or pan-fried, with a vegetable,
chicken, pork, salmon or ebi dangojiru filling. The salmon gyoza were especially
good, paired with a citrussy yuzu and coconut chilli-oil sauce. Steamed gyoza,
however, soon turned flimsy – we had to resort to spoons instead of chopsticks.
It’s a heavy dessert menu, but then again it’s a pretty heavy menu overall.
No bad thing – just come hungry. gyozabar.uk (Words by Charlotte Morgan)
THE GALLERY, BARRY, SOUTH WALES
The Gallery was recently named Welsh Sustainable Restaurant of the Year for the
time in a row. And it’s little wonder when most of the produce on the weekly
ing menu comes from within a 50-mile radius.
our visit, the stand-out starter was almond-crusted cured trout with crunchy
glazed bacon, orange, and a fragrant nettle pesto (which was also baked into some
bread). A meaty portion of pan-roasted hake with olive oil mash, mussels, and
e blanc arrived topped with a striking squid ink wafer along with seasonal veg
e table; while a duo of rabbit was served with crispy pancetta, glazed apples and
earthy, braised puy lentils. For dessert, guests with bigger appetites than ours could
e from dishes like bitter chocolate tart with Seville orange marmalade ice cream; or a local cheeseboard with homemade chutneys.
lful and creative cooking coupled with great service and a passionate commitment to sustainability makes The Gallery a must-visit.
the-gallery-restaurant.co.uk (Words by Jane Cook, hungrycityhippie.co.uk)
86 Omagazine.com 1\UL
After 30 years of service, and numerous awards and accolades, the French owners of
The Great House, a 15th-century Suffolk restaurant with rooms, know how to look after
their guests. The staff, too, many of whom have been here for nearly as many years
(Enrique, the head chef, for 26; Thierry, the GM, for 16) are equally well versed.
In tune with the luxe décor, the menu is a contemporary take on French cuisine using
a selection of top local produce and choice items direct from the famous Rungis market
in Paris. Foie gras coated in almond, with dehydrated pear and a warm brioche was a
luxurious start, but a garden pea soup that sang of early summer showed how the kitchen
can handle humbler ingredients. Classics, such as dover sole meunière, with a dill beurre
noir, lemon, caper berries and a chive and lime mash, are executed masterfully, but it was the
wild halibut fillet, with a warm rhubarb gel, baby spinach fondue, and citrus and vanilla milk
foam that wowed us the most. Desserts taste as good as they look – the earl grey cloud is
seriously grown-up – but save room for the cheese trolley which deserves its own fanfare
as it arrives. greathouse.co.uk (Words by Laura Rowe)
7/6;6.9(7/@*(:(40(!16/5)3(*2>,33
THE GREAT HOUSE, LAVENHAM, SUFFOLK
EAT
PADELLA, BOROUGH MARKET, LONDON
Recently opened in London’s busy Borough Market, Padella features
eight handmade, fresh pasta dishes on its short menu, inspired by
the greatest hits that have made its sister restaurant, Trullo in
Highbury, one of the most accomplished and respected
neighbourhood restaurants in London. Tim Siadatan, who was one
of the first people to graduate from Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen scheme,
heads up the kitchen, and from the window you can see the pasta
being rolled out just hours before service.
Designed as a pasta bar, Padella is split over two levels. Counter
seating runs the entire length of the restaurant and aromas of rich,
slow-cooked sauces follow you downstairs to the intimate, low-lit
dining room. Traditional Italian flavours are at the heart of the menu,
from Dexter beef carpaccio to bruschetta with baked borlotti beans,
while burrata is drizzled with Tuscan Chiarentana Estate olive oil.
The simplest of dishes are done right: for the pici cacio e pepe the
pasta is made without egg, for a slightly doughier texture, which acts
as a magnet to the sauce of parmesan, lemon and black pepper. The
signature dish of pappardelle with eight-hour Dexter beef shin ragù
was rich and succulent, while squid ink tagliarini with Essex
mussels, wild oregano and chilli transformed local ingredients into
an irresistibly fresh main. Finish off with an espresso, the only coffee
Padella serves, or add a shot of grappa or sambuca for a caffe
corretto in true Italian style. padella.co (Words by Nicki Smith)
BUFFALO AND RYE, BIRMINGHAM
A small spot, with a relaxed speakeasy feel, Buffalo and Rye offers what it calls a “taste of
Americana” with its gourmet dogs, dirty burgers and pit-smoked meats. It’s stripped-back
and fun with timber-cladding, superhero figures along the walls, and Persian rugs underfoot,
but you can’t book, so expect a potential wait at busier times.
The majority of the meat is sourced from local, award-winning, butchers Aubrey Allen – the
St Louis ribs served with pickled vegetables and cajun fries was the star of the show on our
visit, particularly with the house slaw as a side. There’s also a small selection of nourishing
salad bowls and a simple all-day brunch menu featuring a handful of breakfast staples
including French toast and pancakes.
It’s worth setting time aside to try some of the 25 bourbons on offer (which the Buffalo and Rye team can match
to your chosen dish), the US-imported beers, or try one of the hard shakes, which give traditional milkshakes an alcoholic
twist. buffaloandrye.co.uk (Words by Charlotte Philpotts, amuchprettierpuzzle.com)
CASAMIA, BRISTOL
Casamia moved from its suburban home of 16 years in Westbury-on-Trym to the
new General development on Bristol’s waterfront back in January, and it feels like
a natural evolution for the Michelin-starred restaurant.
We opted for the 16-course spring tasting-menu (the menu changes quarterly, with
the seasons), which at £68 is still one of the best-value tasting menus in the country.
Each course is served with massive smiles by the chefs, including chef patron Peter
Sanchez-Iglesias (pictured left).
It’s a playful menu. A bespoke ceramic egg made by a Bristol artist housed
a slow-cooked yolk, tiny button mushrooms, confit tomatoes, and an egg mousse,
with fried croutons and crisp shards of Parma ham. ‘Blood orange’, one of five sweets,
proved Peter understands how to perfectly balance flavours and textures with a gel,
fresh segments, granita, the lightest rosemary mousse, and freeze-dried segments. It’s
one of the most exciting and fulfilling dining experiences I’ve had in years. The West
Country should be seriously proud. casamiarestaurant.co.uk (Words by Laura Rowe)
Restaurant
radar
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Park Regis Hotel,
Birmingham
After a £50m renovation, this
luxury, 16-floor hotel finally
opened in the spring, complete
with two restaurants – the
izakaya-style Rofuto, serving
modern Japanese with a 360°
view of the city skyline, and
1565, with classics from the
grill – and a cocktail bar
specialising in sake. It’s the first
Park Regis to open in the UK.
parkregisbirmingham.co.uk
Margot,
Covent Garden
This glamorous 100-seater
Italian is set to open this
summer with a focus on
top-notch service and the
lighter side of Italian cooking.
twitter.com/MargotLDN
Six, Cambridge
Housed just below the roof
garden of luxury boutique
Varsity hotel & spa, Six opened
a few weeks ago. Expect
wood-fired pizzas, rotisserie
chicken and globally inspired
cocktails. sixcambridge.co.uk
STREET FOOD SPOT:
THE LAFFA GU
YS
Middle-Eastern
marinated Eastern Mediterranean
Broadgate Circle and Rupert Street
Market, London. laffafood.com
pro vs punter
Hang Fire
Southern Kitchen, Barry
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For Hang Fire Southern Kitchen’s
sustainability score,
visit Omagazine.com
88 Omagazine.com1\UL
EAT
Our pro says...
Our punter says...
Southern Kitchen has a warm, easy-going vibe and
its staff – dressed in plaid shirts and jeans – are
relaxed, chatty and well-drilled (*I was recognised).
I was given time to browse the excellent drinks
menu of small-batch gins and craft beers (including
Hang Fire’s own creditable pale, Rocky Top,
created with The Waen Brewery), and my questions
about the meats’ provenance were fielded capably.
If the service is fine, however, the food could be
sharper. It’s a huge leap from street food to feeding
people in a restaurant, and Hang Fire’s learning
curve has been steep – and busy. Perhaps it’s time
for the team to concentrate solely on the food here,
because I found it steadfastly okay – not bad, nice
enough, but conspicuously lacking in fireworks.
The majority of items on the mixed Pit boss plate
were adequate. The pulled pork was shredded with
pieces of the ‘bark’ (its seasoned crust) correctly
mixed into the meat, but its flavours (fruity BBQ
sauce, hazy spiciness) were meek. The brisket
had a sound beefy flavour and peppery edge but
it didn’t go beyond that. Serving this, in parts quite
dry, meat on toasted bread is odd.
Both the Pit boss and burger came with so-so
skin-on fries and forgettable slaw. The burger patty,
a seven ounce mix of chuck, brisket and hanger,
was flavourful but not as moist as it could have
been. That lack of lubrication was compounded
by its peculiarly bready brioche bun and the use
of a tangy but – in this context rather dense –
putty-ish hard cheese. It was a decent burger,
but no irresistibly juicy beef bomb.
The sensational eight-hour-smoked St. Louis ribs,
made from acorn-fed Spanish pork, was the one
dish that dazzled. It hit that sweet spot, where heat,
smoke, salt and a clever glaze combine to produce a
long smooth glide of complementary flavours. You
bite through their dark, treacly exterior into
lustrously fatty meat. An assiduously spiced beef
chilli on the Pit boss plate was a similar testament
to the kitchen’s latent ability, if less exhilarating.
Hang Fire Southern Kitchen is all about the
home-style barbecue cooking of the Deep South,
and the service also has an American-style warmth,
albeit with a Barry accent. Our waiter gladly
provided tap water when asked and happily talked
us through the impressive range of homemade
sauces. Co-owner Shauna also made a point of
checking in with each table at least once.
The menu is a carnivore’s dream. There are
locally sourced rib-eye and flat iron steaks, several
burger options with barbecue add-ons and the
obligatory southern fried chicken. Vegetarians have
less choice with just a handful of aubergine and
halloumi dishes.
For starters I went for frickles. The sweet and sour
deep-fried pickles came in a satisfyingly crunchy
batter, with a drizzle of tangy mustard sauce. For
mains I ordered the Pit boss plate, a collection
of Hangfire’s greatest hits: tender, sticky-sweet ribs,
smoky pulled pork and juicy brisket served with
a host of sides. There were barbecue beans (which
were really a rich meaty stew); pickles with an
unexpected punchy hit of fennel; a serving of crisp
coleslaw; and a slice of Texas toast – basically
garlic bread, cowboy-style.
The brisket was the highlight – covered in savoury
jet-black bark from the restaurant’s smoker, and
so tender that it fells apart on the fork. It really
comes to life paired with the treacly smokiness
of the espresso barbecue sauce.
Lil Devil is the house draft IPA from Cardiff’s
Crafty Devil brewing. It’s satisfyingly citrussy
and refreshing, and cuts through the rich
barbecue sauces well.
Hang Fire is fun and affordable, but if it wants to
compete with Britain’s best – say Pitt Cue’s BBQ
or Patty Smith’s burgers – it has work to do.
Total for one, excluding service: £37.15
FOOD: 6/10
SERVICE: 7/10
VIBE: 7/10
FOOD: 9/10
SERVICE: 8/10
VIBE: 8/10
TOTAL
20/30
IL O»Z UL_[
-VY H JOHUJL [V
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THE BOTTOM LINE
Hang Fire Southern Kitchen had a lot to live up
to, thanks to the hype built up by its previous
pop-up incarnation. Fortunately, the food is as
good as its ever been, and even better in the case
of the brisket.
The décor – New Orleans with industrial touches
to reflect the restaurant’s location – is tastefully
done. Combined with the friendly, relaxed
atmosphere and wood smoke in the air, it really
adds to the experience. We’ll definitely be back.
Total for two, excluding service: £52.75
THE BOTTOM LINE
Psst...
Want to review
a restaurant?
TOTAL
25/30
1\UL Omagazine.com
89
DO TRY THIS at home
Pork pie with
vegetables à la grecque
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9LJPWL7/03*(940*/(,37OV[VNYHWOZ+(=0+*6;:>69;/
B
erners Tavern is a beautiful
space in the Edition Hotel
in London’s Fitzrovia. With
every inch of wall space
covered by artworks, vast
high ceilings and bronze
chandeliers it’s one of the most
glamorous dining rooms in London. Chef-owner
Jason Atherton’s long-time colleague Phil
Carmichael has been heading up the kitchen since
the opening, and is responsible for bringing
the latest iconic British touch to the starter
menu – the pork pie trolley.
Made by carpenter Andrew Clarke, who crafts
90 Omagazine.com 1\UL
Berners’ steak boards and napkin holders from
British oak, elm and cedar, the trolley is a way
of marrying the elegance of Berners Tavern with
British tradition.
Each magnificent pie takes two days to make
as Phil leaves the pork mince filling to develop
flavour with a mixture of herbs and spices
including mace, garlic and sage. A classic hot
water crust pastry gives the pie a strong crust
with classic texture.
When ordered, the whole pie is wheeled out
and slices are carved tableside, to be served with
pickled baby veg, homemade piccalilli
and mustard. bernerstavern.com
EAT
Pork pie with vegetables
à la grecque
2 HOURS + CHILLING | SERVES 8-10 AS A STARTER
TRICKY BUT WORTH IT
(ZRHI\[JOLY[VWYLWHYL[OLTLH[ZMVY`V\
egg ILH[LU [V NSHaL
gelatine ZOLL[Z
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70, -03305.
pork shoulder N MPULS` TPUJLK
pork shoulder N JVHYZLS` TPUJLK
smoked pork belly N MPULS` TPUJLK
smoked pork belly N JVHYZLS` TPUJLK
pork loin N JVHYZLS` TPUJLK
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piccalilli
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PER SERVING (10) 609 KCALS | FAT 38.8G
SATURATES 14.4G | CARBS 43.1G | SUGAR 0.7G
FIBRE 2.4G PROTEIN 20.7G | SALT 0.8G
COOK’S NOTES
Fry a small amount of the pork pie filling mix in
a frying pan to check the seasoning before
making the pie.
Vegetables à la grecque
30 MINUTES + INFUSING | SERVES 8 | EASY
70*23,
chicken stock TS
white wine TS
olive oil TS
lemon juice TS
shallot NKPJLK
salt N
black peppercorns
bay leaves
fennel seeds N
mustard seeds N
coriander seeds N
flat-leaf parsley stalksHZTHSSI\UJO
thyme H ML^ ZWYPNZ
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PER SERVING 43 KCALS | FAT 1.2G | SATURATES 0.1G
CARBS 4.9G | SUGAR 2.6G | FIBRE 3G
PROTEIN 1.1G | SALT 0.2G
1\UL Omagazine.com
91
Cocktail of the month
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HYV\UK^P[O[OLYH[PVZ[VMPUK^OH[`V\SPRLILZ[
O’s summer cup
10 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
London dry gin TS
sweet vermouth TS
Cointreau TS
lemonade [V ZLY]L
cucumber slices mint strawberries orange
slices HUK ice[VZLY]L
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I’ve never been a whisky fan. But driven by FOMO and a spate of cool whisky
bars opening (see Black Rock, page 95), I’m having a change of heart. If you’re
the same, try Peat from Elements of Islay, a blend of lightly peated Islay malts
that carries its cask-strength ABV (59.3%) well with baked fruit and caramel
flavours. Drink it on its own or over ice. £34.95/50cl, thewhiskyexchange.com
Wine…sort of
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92 Omagazine.com 1\UL
HOT TICKET!
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DRINK
Kat e Ha wkings on
english wine
Kate Hawkings is a food and drink writer and consultant with a special
interest in sniffing out wines from lesser-known regions and lesserknown grapes that give the most bang for your buck. She is also
a restaurateur and co-owner of Bellita in Bristol. @KateHawkings
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V
ines have been grown in England since
Roman times but our chilly climate,
more suited to grain and apples than to
grapes, mean beer and cider became the booze
of Britain and winemaking was left to our
cousins across the Channel. But things have
changed in recent years thanks to warmer
summers, improved winemaking techniques
and serious investment. There are now over
500 wineries in England and Wales, and some
of their wines are serious contenders.
The chalky soils of southern Britain are cut
from the same geological cloth as those of
Champagne, so it’s no surprise that sparkling
wine is where the English shine. Hambledon
Classic Cuvée NV (M&S and others, around
£28.50) and Nyetimber Classic Cuvée 2010
(widely available, around £25) scooped the top
two places at a blind tasting last year, knocking
into a cocked beret such hot-shot champagne
names as Pol Roger and Tattinger.
Still wines tend to be trickier as the high
acidity of grapes grown in cool climates can
be hard to balance with their lack of ripe fruit,
which is why whites and rosés generally fare
better than reds. But quality overall is
improving and, while low yields and high land
prices mean our wines will never be found on
the ‘two for a tenner’ shelves, you can find very
serviceable wines at reasonable prices.
As Brexit looms, cheap wine from Europe
may soon become an expensive luxury so we’ll
all be drinking vin d’angleterre. Yet more good
news for the UK wine industry, perhaps?
SEASONAL WINE
It pays to think ahead and stock up on
well-priced reliable wines so there’s
always something to hand for
impromptu summer drinking.
Dunleavy Vineyard’s Pinot Noir Rosé
2015 (£11.50, dunleavyvineyards.
co.uk) hits just the right balance
between fruit and acidity, while
Three Choirs Payford Bridge 2014
(£8.95, The Wine Society) bursts
with gooseberry and zippy citrus
freshness that will appeal to lovers
of sauvignon blanc.
Chapel Down Blanc de Blancs 2011
(£29.99, chapeldown.com) has
some classy bottle age which gives
it a rich and savoury complexity and
enough weight to drink with
food. Try it with the crab and
berkswell tarts on page 36.
HIGH STREET BOTTLE
Denbies Noble Harvest Ortega 2014
(£19.99, Waitrose) Waitrose is a big supporter
of English and Welsh wine and is the first
supermarket to stock an English sticky
(dessert wine). This is silky and aromatic;
honeyed but not heavy. Try it with the
buttermilk burnt rice pudding on page 36.
Where to buy
Although supermarkets are slowly
catching on to it, sourcing English
wine can be tricky. Check out the shelves
of your local independent wine merchant
or, better still, visit your nearest winery and
buy the wines direct. Most vineyards are open
to visitors and will let you taste before you buy,
and most do mail order. Find more information at
englishwineproducers.co.uk.
WINE BOOK
In The History of Wine in
100 Bottles, Oz Clarke romps
through 8,000 vinous years with
his usual infectious enthusiasm
and engaging style. 100 winebased stories entertain and
enlighten in equal measure and will appeal to wine
connoisseurs and novices alike. (£20, Pavilion Books)
1\UL Omagazine.com
93
A Royal celebration
To commemorate the Queen’s 90th birthday and celebrate Her Majesty’s
commitment to good causes, M&S is helping to host the UK’s largest-scale
street party – and you can join in the fun
CONTENTS NOT INCLUDED
U
nion Jack flag bunting, vintage
tea sets and a free-flowing supply
of bubbles; when you’re throwing
a classic British street party or
patriotic picnic, these are just a
few of the elements to get right. And on Sunday
12 June, the nation’s largest (and arguably finest)
street party will take place.
On this historic day, M&S is helping celebrate
The Queen’s patronage of more than 600 charities
and organisations. Taking place on Her Majesty’s
90th Birthday, The Patron’s Lunch, is set to be a
highlight of the British calendar this year and will
turn The Mall into the country’s largest ever street
party. And everyone’s invited.
Of course, the food is the absolute centrepiece,
bringing the whole celebration to culinary life.
And no one does classic British food better than
M&S. So it was a natural partner to provide a
luxurious hamper for all guests. And in true
patriotic spirit, M&S has also created a bespoke
picnic collection to help the rest of the nation
join in with the celebrations.
The official Patron’s Lunch Hamper, which
will be served on The Mall, showcases some of the
finest British seasonal produce and ingredients.
Inside is an exquisite lunch and afternoon tea
picnic carefully curated by M&S food and drink
experts to celebrate the occasion in style.
Even if you’ve not got a ticket to The Mall
celebrations, you can still join in. Pop into
your local M&S and shop the bespoke picnic
collection created especially for The Patron’s
Lunch. This delicious selection focuses on
products and ingredients from across the British
Isles. It includes picnic classics such as a Best
of British Sandwich Selection, Piccalilli Topped
Mini Pork Pies, Posh Raspberry Royale Desserts,
and dainty Butterfly Cakes.
If you’d like to make your own picnic, try
the Wiltshire Sliced Ham, Cornish Cove Mature
Cheddar and Sandringham Oak Smoked Salmon
to create your own quiches and sandwiches.
Patron’s Lunch Wicker Hamper
with Dark Blue Trim £20
This traditional hamper makes a
picnic extra special, and there’s
room inside for all your goodies.
“The Patron’s Lunch Hamper has been created by our food
experts who have put all their passion and creative know-how
into devising a special picnic for the celebration.”
Sandra Ziles, Head of M&S Product Development
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
2 Smoked Salmon Mousse £5.00
Made using the exclusive M&S
Scottish Lochmuir Salmon, which is slow
grown for superior taste. The salmon has
been slow smoked over wood chips from
oak trees grown on the Sandringham
Estate in Norfolk.
Pressed British
Windsor Apple
Juice £1.50
This refreshing pressed
juice is crafted from the
Windsor apple variety
that flourishes in the
Suffolk countryside.
These beautiful red
apples are known for
their distinct robust
flavour and aroma,
which has honey
flavoured undertones.
Best of British Sandwich
Selection £3.30
Four of the nation’s finest. Roasted
Northern Irish Beef, Scottish Smoked
Trout, Applewood Smoked Wiltshire Ham
and Welsh Mature Cheddar Cheese with
Windsor Apple Chutney.
9 Mini Butterfly Cakes £4.00
Exquisite little bites of sweet indulgence.
These cute butterfly cakes are the perfect
picnic size. Choose from chocolate,
strawberry or lemon frosting, or sample
them all. The dinky butterfly wings add
a pretty, decorative touch.
2 Tulameen Raspberry &
Strawberry Royale £4
Juicy and sweet Tulameen raspberries
are combined with strawberry jelly and
layered with gluten-free sponge and
clotted whipped cream for a delicious
dessert. Topped with a chocolate crown.
Piccalilli Topped Mini Pork Pies £2.40
The ultimate British pork pie with a spicy
and regal twist. Hot water crust pastry is
hand finished with piquant piccalilli and
a pastry crown. Slice up and serve with
salad or indulge in one simply on its own.
The Pembrokeshire
chicken salad
The free-range chicken,
reared by Justin Scales on
the Pembrokeshire coast is
the centrepiece of this salad.
It’s offset by earthy Wye
Valley asparagus, grown by
John Chinn (far right) and
sweet Cornish new potatoes.
Patron’s Picnic Bag £8.00
In royal blue, naturally, this handy tote
doubles up as a picnic and grocery
shopping holdall. With a cool lining,
it keeps all your picnic or shopping
essentials fresh, from the house to
the park or shop to your fridge.
Piccalilli pork pies
Hand-crafted by expert pie
makers who boast an
impressive baking heritage.
The original recipe was
created in 1824 and uses
100% British pork. The
piccalilli adds a subtle
tangy kick.
Sandringham
oak-smoked salmon
Slow-grown for superior taste
and texture, Sandringham
Lochmuir oak-smoked
salmon is an M&S exclusive.
The salmon is slow-smoked
over oak wood chips grown
on the Sandringham Estate
in Norfolk.
To find out more about The Patron’s Lunch, visit thepatronslunch.com
Visit marksandspencer.com for details on the hamper and in-store picnic collection
June
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10 great places to eat & drink in Budapest
A new gourmet bolthole in Fife | The hottest foodie travel news
Home-cured gravadlax on the Isle of Wight
1\UL Omagazine.com
97
ON THE ROAD:
THE LAKE
DISTRICT
ONE WAY
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I
t’s not good news for squirrels. The
most eagerly awaited hotel opening
in the Lakes might be called The
Forest Side (theforestside.com) but this
is no safe haven for the bushy-tailed.
Head chef Kevin Tickle is a man
on a mission, switching from forager
to vermin vigilante, hunter as well as gatherer.
His aim: to put grey squirrel on the menu and
save the native red. Squirrel Nutkin has a new
champion – although Beatrix Potter might turn
in her grave.
Kevin’s credentials are Lake District gold.
He spent nine years learning the ropes from Simon
Rogan at L’Enclume (lenclume.co.uk) on the
Lakes’ southern edge. Now he has his own
kingdom. The menu, on rough brown paper tied
with twine, a pen-and-ink drawing of the Lakeland
fells on the front, outlines his ethos: Inspired by
the Cumbrian Landscape. But, then, this bastion
of heart-stopping beauty has inspired more than
its share of creative genius over the centuries.
98 Omagazine.com 1\UL
The 10-course tasting menu (11 including
cheese) is called The Grand Un – and it is. From
the almost cloying richness (tempered by seaside
saltiness) of hen’s yolk, kohlrabi, sea lettuce
and marsh herbs, to the fresher-than-toothpaste
zing of frozen yogurt, celery, lemon thyme,
ingeniously paired with sparkling sake. The
scorched pear, malt, ginger beer dessert is
pungent and peppery, and is paired with
homemade ginger beer, a mouthful of thick,
dark, fiery sweetness.
Set back from the road on the edge of picture
postcard-pretty Grasmere, and surrounded by
sweeping grounds, Forest Side is grand, grey
and Victorian, and another filly for the Wildsmith
hotels stable, sister to Hipping Hall. Inside,
roaring fires flicker beside contemporary Cole
and Son wallpaper. Outside, the large kitchen
garden will soon bear fruit and veg. Seedling
to plate is another of Kevin’s passions.
Forest Side is an exciting addition to a culinary
landscape that has changed dramatically over the
last couple of decades. England’s largest national
park, the Lake District is home to the country’s
longest lake (Windermere), its deepest
(Wastwater), its highest waterfall (Scale Force)
and its highest peak (Scafell Pike) but, until
quite recently, the most innovative food to come
out of the region was a curly sausage (it now has
PGI status).
No longer. Pubs that once dished up chickenin-the-basket vie with restaurants, including
former Cumbria Tourism Pub of the Year, The
Wild Boar Inn, Grill and Smokehouse
(englishlakes.co.uk), near Windermere, which has
a micro-brewery and smokehouse stocking the
restaurant with smoked wild boar chops.
The Drunken Duck (drunkenduckinn.co.uk)
in Barnsgate also has a microbrewery, as well
as a handful of boutique hotel-style bedrooms.
Instead of basket meals, these days you can
enjoy cheddar and almond soufflé with onion
soubise and crispy sage, and pork collar with
celeriac, celery, truffle and crackling before your
7/6;6.9(7/:!16/5(9(5+/(9()3(*2>,33 .,;;@7/0390.)@*<4)90(30-,
>VYKZ3<*@.033469,
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Don’t miss!
Our exclusive reader
offer with The Samling
Hotel in The Lake
District
p87
SCENIC
ROUTE
jam roly poly. Thankfully the name hasn’t
changed; you can’t help loving a pub
with a legend involving
a leaking barrel of beer
and ducks half-plucked
by a landlady who thought
them dead, not dead drunk.
Another quirky place to
stay is the Rum Doodle
(rumdoodlewindermere.com)
in Windermere. This
stylish B&B is named after
the mountaineering spoof
novel The Ascent of Rum
Doodle, and serves
Cumbrian-sourced
breakfasts and a fine line
in home-baking to guests.
The region’s sweets are celebrated; from sugary
confection Kendal Mint Cake to Grasmere
Gingerbread and Cumberland Rum Nicky, a
rum-scented date pastry revived by the Appleby
Bakery (now owned by Bryson’s of Keswick).
Look out for the latter at Booths: the
community-minded
supermarket chain is an
institution here, with seven
branches in Cumbria, four
of them within the Lakes,
and it champions local
producers (booths.co.uk).
Another sweet treat,
sticky toffee pudding
(cartmelvillageshop.co.uk),
is also a Lake District
invention. Last autumn
it celebrated its 25th
anniversary and, while the
puddings are now made
in nearby Flookburgh, their original home, the
pretty village of Cartmel, is where you’ll find
a clutch of Simon Rogan’s restaurants.
L’enclume, the most celebrated, feels low-key
and local with its stone-flagged floor and slate
“You can’t help
loving a pub with a
legend involving a
barrel of beer and
ducks half-plucked
by a landlady who
thought them dead,
not dead drunk”
walls. But from the fragrant pink rhubarb cordial,
served in a long glass with a slice of sweet, dried
rhubarb, to the bread (freshly made sourdough
with a jar of rendered pork fat and apple) the
attention to detail is obvious.
Each dish is exquisite and clever. Broth of
artichoke, Westcombe, hen of the woods, teases
diners: the cheese ball is cheese-free. Cheeseinfused water is thickened and made into balls.
Valley venison, charcoal oil, mustard and fennel is
a house specialty. The delicately diced venison
from the Holker estate is peppered with tiny
sugary balls of gin infused with fennel and sugar
which explode in your mouth.
There are other starry places to eat in the
Lakes – Sharrow Bay, near Pooley Bridge
(sharrowbay.co.uk), Gilpin Lodge, outside
Windermere (thegilpin.co.uk), Lake Road
Kitchen, Ambleside, and The Samling
(thesamlinghotel.co.uk), near Ambleside, among
them; the latter has just bagged Nick Edgar from Le
Manoir aux Quat’Saisons as head chef – but
I have other cravings. In Ambleside outdoor
clothing shops vie for space with gourmet delis
as well as restaurants. At one of these, The Old
Stamp House (oldstamphouse.com), the signature
dish is hogget. The whitewashed walls of Ryan
Blackburn’s restaurant are hung with drawings of
native Herdwick sheep and the fell-fed hogget, from
John Watson’s Yew Tree Farm, is richly gamey.
Ryan highlights the native Cumbrian larder, from
an amuse-bouche of black pudding bonbons on
Cumberland sauce reduced to a curd, the sweetness
complementing the black pudding’s pungent
earthiness, to brown shrimps, cauliflower, pine nut,
curry and mead – his take on potted shrimp.
Staggering back outside, I waddle towards the
local bookshop in search of an Alfred Wainwright
fell-walking guide – relieved that I’ve packed my
walking boots. All foodie travellers making a
beeline for the Lake District take note. A tramp
in the hills is the only way to shift those calories.
HOW TO DO IT
Double rooms at The Forest Side cost from
£299, including dinner, bed and breakfast
(theforestside.com).
For more information see golakes.co.uk.
1\UL Omagazine.com
99
100 Omagazine.com 1\UL
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Cook like a local
MALAYSIA
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W
ith its lush
rainforests, white
sand beaches
and vibrant and
historical cities, it’s
little wonder that
tourists want to visit
Malaysia. Like its better-known neighbours,
Singapore and Thailand, food is another big draw
in this colourful Southeast Asian country.
The influences of Malaysia’s three major
cultures – Malay, Chinese and Indian – can be
clearly found in the country’s food, and many
visitors now arrive specifically hoping to
experience the enormous variety of its cuisine,
from classic dishes such as beef rendang and
charcoal-grilled satay to oyster omelettes, roti
canai (a Malaysian take on Indian paratha) and
gula melaka marquise, a modern twist on the
country’s palm sugar-based dessert served at
high-end restaurant Dewakan, in the capital,
Kuala Lumpur (dewakan.my).
Skyscraper-packed Kuala Lumpur is also home
to the iconic Petronas Twin Towers (at just under
452m high, they’re the tallest twin structures in
the world), and to a wide selection of fabulous
rooftop cocktail bars; enjoy one of the best views
of the city, paired with a dark & stormy made
with rum, homemade ginger beer and calamansi
limes at Fuego (troikaskydining.com/fuego).
For an earthier take on Malaysian eating and
drinking, head 200km north, to quieter Ipoh, and
try the region’s signature dish, gai see hor fun
(silky soft rice noodles in a rich prawn and
chicken stock). Ipoh is also known for its bean
sprouts; the area’s mineral-rich water and
limestone hills produce the juiciest in the world.
Or head south to the World Heritage city of
Malacca, and explore its rich architectural
heritage fuelled up on classic local dishes such
as satay celup (skewers of vegetables, meat and
seafood cooked in bubbling peanut sauce).
»
1\UL Omagazine.com
101
Nyonya curry laksa
1¼ HOURS | SERVES 4 | A LITTLE EFFORT
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of the best places to eat & drink
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COOK’S NOTES
Once you’ve made the
paste, you can keep it
in the fridge for up to
a month. You can buy
dried shrimps from Asian
supermarkets or
thai-food-online.co.uk
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7
Modern cooking Among a handful
of Michelin-starred options in the city,
Borkonyha (Wine Kitchen) is a mustvisit. The service is spot-on, and the modern
Hungarian menu changes regularly to highlight
what’s at the market. Be sure to finish your meal
with a glass of Tokaji aszú, Hungary’s iconic
dessert wine. borkonyha.hu
Comfort food Goulash may be the
country’s most famous dish but don’t
overlook pörkölt. At Gettó Gulyás, a new
home-style restaurant, you can try over a dozen
types of this paprika-laced stew as well as classic
Hungarian starters (bone marrow and toast) and
desserts (curd cheese dumplings and Somlói
galuska). facebook.com/gettogulyas
Drink up Ruin bars have become
a Budapest phenomenon. In the past they
popped up in random vacant buildings and
outdoor spaces, but these days they come in more
manicured forms. Mazel Tov, with its lovely
garden courtyard and a kitchen that turns out
Middle Eastern specialties, is a grown-up version
of the concept. mazeltov.hu
Pint-sized Budapest’s thriving
cocktail scene includes tiny Bar
Pharma, which can hold no more
than 10 people. The mixologists always have
an experiment bubbling behind the bar, but don’t
miss the boozy ice creams. Flavours include one
that is laced with Unicum. barpharma.hu
8
Weekender
BUDAPEST
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1
Private dining At Zoltán 18,
a supperclub-style restaurant, memorable
meals are served at a long, communal,
wooden table. Anatoli, the Canadian/Russian
chef, creates gorgeous fixed-menu dinners with
local wine pairings; typical menus include crab
and shrimp cake followed by boar with stewed
quince and hazelnuts. facebook.com/
Zoltan18Gastro
To market Most Budapest neighbourhoods
have market halls where locals rub
shoulders with chefs. The city’s three-level
Central Market is a must-visit, but smaller
newly refurbished food halls like the Klauzaltér
Market in the 7th district and the Hold utca
Market in the 5th district are also fine places
to browse and grab lunch. Vámház krt. 1-3
Out of town It’s a 40-minute drive to the
charming Etyek wine region. Have lunch
on the patio at Rókusfalvy Fogadó and
pair it with a bottle of the restaurant’s own wine
(its winery is just down the street). Other local
wineries include Hernyák, Kertész, and Etyeki
Kúria, and are worth visiting for fine pinot noirs
and sauvignon blancs. rokusfalvyfogado.hu
The classics Its modest exterior belies
the extraordinary menu at Rosenstein
Vendégl, the city’s landmark Jewish
restaurant. Owner/chef Tibor Rosensten and his
son Róbert serve excellent matzo ball soup and
sólet (slow-baked bean stew) as well as Jewish
egg salad. rosenstein.hu
Bittersweet Unicum is a herbal bitter
made from a secret recipe that includes
over 40 herbs. It’s one of the national
drinks, with a distinctive bomb-shaped bottle,
and has a fascinating back-story. Find out more,
and enjoy a tasting, at the Zwack Unicum
Museum. zwack.hu
Sugar sugar A pilgrimage to Daubner
Cukrászda is a weekend ritual for many
Budapest families. Don’t let the queues
deter you. Once you reach the counter, and its
pastry cases packed with Dobos torta, Esterházy
torta, krémes and other decadent pastries, you’ll
be glad you waited. daubnercukraszda.hu
4
2
5
3
6
9
10
HOW TO DO IT
Return flights from various UK airports cost
from around £80 (wizzair.com). Double rooms
at Brody House start from £55, room only
(brodyhouse.com). More info: gotohungary.com.
TRUST
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105
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EXPLORE
>69+:!*/(936;;,469.(5
ISLE OF WIGHT
Brits have been holidaying in the Isle of Wight’s
resorts since Victorian times and it’s partly that
traditional charm that attracts us today. On the
island’s southern tip you can stay in a hotel
(The Royal) that the Michelin Guide has
recommended every year since it was first
published in 1911. But skip over to Newport
or Cowes and you’ll find ambitious young
restaurateurs using island produce in
modern sleek recipes.
Sleep: Afternoon tea served on manicured lawns
and a lofty dining room that looks as if it once
doubled as a ballroom show that The Royal hasn’t
lost its Victorian feel. Bedrooms enjoy
the same ambience and most are painted sky
blue to complement the views of Ventnor Bay,
a five-minute walk away.
At the opposite end of the scale, The Little
Gloster, in Cowes, takes inspiration from co-owner
Ben Cooke’s Danish grandmother. Set against The
Solent, a stretch of water usually peppered with
sailboats, it looks like an unfussy little bungalow
from the outside, but inside, its clean, white
interiors are illuminated, Scandinavian-style, by
candlelight. The three suites here are minimal but
cosy; lounge on squashy cushions on your veranda
and watch the yachts.
Eat: The Royal’s traditional dining room belies the
kitchen’s clever, delicate cooking. Cheese soufflés
made from the island’s gallybagger cheese (similar
to cheddar) are so light that they evaporate
on the tongue; and pearly white lemon sole
has just the right level of bite. For a more
modern menu, head to Thompson’s in
Newport (robertthompson.co.uk). Chef
Robert Thompson’s first solo venture, you
can watch him in his tiny open-plan kitchen
producing dishes such as smoked wood
pigeon carpaccio – velvety soft and
dramatically presented under a smoky glass
globe – and skate wing served with rich,
porky black pudding balls.
Not surprisingly, The Little Gloster offers
a subtly Scandinavian-inspired menu
– try house-cured gravadlax with a shot
of homemade aquavit, or catch-of-the-day
with punchy pickled cockles and vegetal
seaweed mash.
Do: Take in the beauty of Tennyson Down
(the poet lived on the island for over a decade)
on a walk from The Needles to Freshwater
Bay, stopping off at Dimbola Lodge for fat
scones with jam and cream (dimbola.co.uk).
Double rooms at The Royal start from £190,
b&b (royalhoteliow.co.uk) and at The Little
Gloster from £120, b&b (thelittlegloster.com).
Return vehicle ferry crossings from Southampton
to East Cowes cost from £51 (redfunnel.co.uk).
More info: visitisleofwight.co.uk
»
1\UL Omagazine.com
107
BABBACOMBE
Double rooms at The Cary Arms start from
£195, b&b (caryarms.co.uk).
More info: visitdevon.co.uk
108 Omagazine.com1\UL
>69+:!*/(936;;,469.(5
Babbacombe is the kind of place Agatha Christie
might have sent a recuperating character to: there’s
Devon sunshine, blue seas, charming Oddicombe
beach (made private by the shelter of a steep,
tree-lined cliff) and even an art deco funicular
railway linking the beach to Babbacombe’s pretty
clifftop green. Standing sentinel over all of this
is the Cary Arms, squeezed inside the curve
of the bay directly above the beach.
Sleep: The Cary Arms dates back to the 1800s
and feels custom-designed to embrace the view.
Bedrooms (some dog-friendly) have a fresh,
coastal feel. If there are more of you than two, rent
one of the adjoining blue-and-white fisherman’s
cottages that come with log fires and fancy
bathrooms. Or, for a romantic weekend, book one
of the inn’s new beach huts. Inside these duplex
suites is a private sitting room and bathroom with
a mezzanine bedroom upstairs and nothing but the
sparkling English Channel in front.
Eat: This must be the most tranquil place for a
pint in Devon; the view stretches to Portland Bill
in Dorset and takes in the pink-soil cliffs of the
English Riviera and an old pier where both seals
and locals like to fish.
The panorama changes with where you sit –
tables inside the conservatory and the circular
‘captain’s table’ outside are particularly lovely.
Also outside is a series of terraces separated
by rock gardens while, inside, it’s all log fire
cosiness, with tables pointing seawards and
shiny nautical brassware.
For breakfast, try grilled kippers or the Devon
full English, for lunch a succulent local white
crab meat and lemon mayonnaise bloomer.
Dinner centres around fish – pick one of the
chef’s specials for the freshest catch, delicately
poached John Dory with basil pesto and seasonal
vegetables, perhaps, or Lyme Bay lobster.
The wine list is extensive and each week the
De Savary family (the inn’s owners) choose
a different house white and red.
Do: Walk along Oddicombe beach via a wooden
walkway to reach the funicular (look out for crabs
skirting the rock pools below) and catch your ride
up the cliffs.
EXPLORE
>69+:!:(9(/)(?;,9
NORTH NORFOLK
With its cinematic beaches and big skies, the
North Norfolk coast has long drawn walkers,
cocklers, twitchers and bucket-and-spaders.
But, increasingly, visitors are lured there by
food. Norfolk’s north-west is especially flavourintense. Thornham is home to the Orange
Tree (Norfolk Dining Pub of the Year 2016;
theorangetreethornham.co.uk), tiny Titchwell
has its award-winning Manor (more on that later).
At mast-clanking Brancaster Staithe, the freshest
mussels and local smoked fish are stuffed into
baguettes at the Crab Hut. And, amongst the
pretty flint-and-brick cottages of Burnham
Market, you can buy potted shrimp from
Gurneys Fishmonger (gurneysfishshop.co.uk)
and Norfolk pork pies from Humble Pie
Deli (humble-pie.com).
Sleep: Handsome redbrick Titchwell Manor
gazes across the marshes to The Wash. Formerly a
farmhouse, built by Oxford’s Magdalen College
in 1897, it’s now a smart 27-room hotel that marries
Victorian stateliness with bold, modern brio. The
manor guestrooms are a riot of statement wallpaper,
vintage pieces and acid colours. There are calmer
blue-white or neutral retreats in the converted
outbuildings, arranged around the herb garden;
best is The Potting Shed, a standalone hideaway
with log burner, veranda and roll-top bath.
Eat: Head chef Eric Snaith, whose family bought
Titchwell Manor when he was a boy, learned on
the job. Like its rooms, Titchwell’s kitchen caters
for all tastes. Robust bar staples in the hotel’s
Eating Rooms offer counterpoint to the
Conservatory’s inventive tasting menus (poached
cod, beer broth and inky squid crackers) and
monthly supper clubs – 15 June is Crab Shack
night. Snaith does foraging, too: sea purslane,
stonecrop, sea buckthorn to infuse vodka.
In nearby Thornham, Eric’s Fish & Chips
(ericsfishandchips.com), opened by Snaith
in 2015, elevates the old coastal faves:
sustainable fish in beer batter, pickled
quails’ eggs, homemade black garlic aïoli.
Do: Hire binoculars and explore Titchwell
Marsh RSPB Reserve – trails run alongside the
wetlands to the beach and state-of-the-art hides.
In summer, look for marsh harriers gliding over
the reeds and avocets on the lagoons.
Double rooms at Titchwell Manor start from £125,
b&b, or £185, dinner, b&b (titchwellmanor.com).
More info: visitnorthnorfolk.com
»
1\UL Omagazine.com
109
ELIE
110 Omagazine.com1\UL
vibe is accentuated by old wooden oars, rope
ladders and glass buoys. Contemporary comfort
comes from roll-top baths, monsoon showers,
flat-screen TVs, espresso machines
and free WiFi. From the window seat of the
top-floor ‘Admiral’ room you can gaze down
on dog-walkers weaving across the village’s
broad, sandy beach.
Eat: Famous for its fish and chips, the inn
champions Scottish seafood and local shellfish
(the crab, lobster and langoustine are landed at
nearby Pittenweem). You can tuck into pub grub,
bangers and mash-style, or opt for home-cured
salmon with samphire, confit fennel and saffron
dressing followed by seared sea bream with
cauliflower and samphire, tempura oyster and
crispy capers.
Do: Watch a game of cricket from the beer
garden. The inn is the only pub in Britain to
have a cricket team with a pitch on the beach;
this year’s cricket festival takes place from
12-14 August.
Double rooms at The Ship Inn start from £90,
including breakfast (shipinn.scot).
More info: foodfromfife.co.uk
>69+:!3<*@.033469,
Imagine Cornwall, only quieter. Much of
The Kingdom of Fife, just over the Forth Bridge
from Edinburgh, is neat farmland and its
coastline is peppered with sand and old stone
villages. Harbours team with fishing trawlers
unloading creels of langoustine and lobster,
and lanes are lined with fancy farm shops and
Italian ice-cream cafés (check out Jannettas
in St Andrews; jannettas.co.uk): in summer
Fife feels like a giant picnic hamper.
In the heart of it, in the village of Elie, is The
Ship Inn. A local institution, it’s recently been
taken over by Graham and Rachel Bucknall
and they’ve revamped it, opening an upstairs
restaurant and six contemporary bedrooms.
In the pub, dogs lie in front of a roaring fire,
seafaring photos hang on the walls and a beer
garden just above the beach is perfect for a
sundowner (try a local Eden Mill gin and tonic).
This is old-fashioned bucket-and-spade territory.
Go cockling on the shore, build sandcastles,
tuck into a pub barbecue or walk out along
Fife’s Coastal Path.
Sleep: The Ship’s new bedrooms are decked out
in fresh, coastal style with a smattering of
junk-shop finds. Bedside tables are made from
stacks of old suitcases. Walls are clad with
aquamarine tongue-and-groove and the seaside
EXPLORE
>69+:!9/0(5565)(;;,5
ABERDOVEY
Tell someone you’re going to Aberdovey and the
reply tends to be “Abu Dhabi? Lucky you!” It’s
not so much visitors in the Arabian Gulf who are
fortunate, however, but those who make a beeline
for this picturesque estuary village in Snowdonia,
on the west coast of Wales. Whether in bright
sunshine or under dishwater skies, the coastline
always seems picture-perfect.
For walkers and dog-owners there are miles
of wind-whipped sand and dunes to wander (often
deserted outside the peak summer months) and,
directly behind the village, rolling green hills
leading off towards the sky. You can try
your hand at all manner of watersports. And
Aberdovey itself is a creative little place, with
art galleries, cafés and a deli.
Sleep: For a mixed generation get-together, book
one of the handful of cottages at the Trefeddian
Hotel. A classic family-friendly retreat with a bit
of old-fashioned grandeur, it’s in a quiet position
just outside the village, separated from the sand
dunes by a golf course (visit off-season and you
can watch its greens being dutifully nibbled by
sheep). Cottage guests can use all the hotel
facilities, which include a great children’s games
room and swimming pool. There is a restaurant
but, if you’re staying in a cottage, you can eat
both in and (if you have babysitting-willing
grandparents in tow) out.
Eat: Aberdovey has a fish restaurant, pubs and
a decent fish and chip shop, but it’s worth
booking a table at the Salt Marsh Kitchen in
neighbouring Tywyn (saltmarshkitchen.co.uk).
This small bistro is particularly good on fish
and local meat; check the specials board for
adeptly-cooked scallops, hake or bouillabaisse.
Or, for fine dining, drive half an hour around
the coast to Michelin-starred Ynyshir Hall
for chef Gareth Ward’s elegant tasting menus
(ynyshirhall.co.uk). One of the Good Food
Guide’s top 50 restaurants in the UK this year,
expect stellar service and Japanese-influenced
cooking: lamb rib with mint and soy, or a
deconstructed tiramisu.
Do: It’s all about the shoreline here, whether you
want to paint it, sail it or walk it. If you really don’t
want to step outside, hunker down at the Trefeddian
with a Welsh afternoon tea: buttered bara brith,
homemade Welsh cakes and tea or coffee.
Cottage rental at the Trefeddian Hotel starts from
£285 for six people for a week (trefwales.com).
More info: visitsnowdonia.info
1\UL Omagazine.com
111
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EXPLORE
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EXPLORE
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magazine.
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7/6;6.9(7/!7/(0+65964(0590*(9+
TASTE
FOOT WORK
On sale
17
June
Born to
grill
Introducing the new heroes
of the summer barbecue –
avocadoes (they’re good for more
than just guac!), spring onions,
corn-on-the-cob and more
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THE SUM
MAGAZINE
SUPERMARKET AWARDS
WINNERS
REVEALE
D!
done
Plan a foodie
weekend in Reykjavik
Maple and bacon scones | Frozen peach margaritas
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1\UL Omagazine.com
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G
in was born in 1689,
when King William of
Orange dropped taxes
and licensing from distillation
to curtail French brandy
imports and use up grain
surpluses. Overnight, London began its
transformation into a city of distillers and within
116 Omagazine.com 1\UL
>,:;
decades you could find a working gin still in one
out of every four habitable structures.
Punch houses and gin palaces thrived. However,
not all of these early distilleries were selling safe
alcohol. Beginning in 1736, parliament stepped in
with a series of acts meant to place Madame
Geneva in her coffin. While these acts never
succeeded in quashing gin production, they did
Gin
curtail bad production and helped to shape gin
as we know it today.
Gin had humble beginnings. It was first distilled
with a single ingredient to flavour it: juniper,
specifically juniperus communis imported from
the northern Mediterranean. It was imported to
the UK for centuries before gin was born and was
in huge demand during the plague, when people
EXPERT
thought the deadly illness was spread by bad
odours and that juniper would ward these off
(unaware that juniper oil is a flea repellant).
However, after the birth of gin, distillers quickly
introduced other botanicals: citrus peels; angelica,
liquorice and orris roots; cinnamon and cassia;
coriander seeds and many other ingredients (see
p118). By the mid 19th century there were over
a dozen gin styles. Today we’re familiar with three:
London Dry, Plymouth, and Old Tom, but back
then, they also made table gin, cordial gin, fine
cordial gin, cream of the valley, plus others – all
long lost and forgotten.
In 1820, the last distillery opened in London.
Distilleries closed or relocated over the ensuing
years until London was left with only Beefeater in
Kennington and Thames Distilling in Southwark,
that is until 2009 when the first new license was
issued to Sipsmith Independent Spirits. A raft of
new micro-distilleries quickly followed. London is
distilling once again and gin is now produced up
and down the country.
MACERATION
A still is loaded with neutral spirit, water, and
botanicals. It’s briefly warmed, then allowed
to steep, releasing the flavours of the botanicals.
How long bontanicals are steeped varies
between gins.
:;@305.!16/(990:*6*2;(03:;@305.!:(9(/205.:)<9@
ONE-SHOT
Gin that is made without adding any neutral spirit
after distillation. Only a few gins today are made
this way, Sipsmith is one of them. The majority
Gin
Bramble
10 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY
0U]LU[LK I` [OL SH[L +PJR )YHKZLSS H[ -YLK»Z
*S\I :VOV PU [OL ’ Z HUK IHZLK VU [OL
:PUNHWVYL :SPUN [OPZ ^HZ JYLH[LK HZ H
X\PU[LZZLU[PHS )YP[PZO KYPUR 0[»Z UV^ H TVKLYU
JSHZZPJHUKPZLHZ`[VTHRLH[OVTL
London Dry gin TS
lemon juice TS
sugar syrup TS
crème de mure TS
lemon wedge [V ZLY]L VW[PVUHS
blackberries [VZLY]L
DISTILLING
TERMS
DISTILLATION
The temperature of a liquid is raised until it reaches
its boiling point (78.3°C for beverage alcohol).
The alcohol vapours rise up the still and are then
condensed back into liquid form. This separates
the beverage alcohol from other substances.
Cocktail
:OHRL [OL MPYZ[ [OYLL PUNYLKPLU[Z ^P[O PJL
HUK Z[YHPU PU[V H NSHZZ MPSSLK ^P[O JY\ZOLK PJL
+YPaaSL [OL JYuTL KL T\YL V]LY [OL PJL ZV
[OH[ P[ ISLLKZ [OYV\NO :LY]L ^P[O H SLTVU
^LKNLHUKISHJRILYYPLZPM`V\SPRL
of gins are made from gin concentrate where less
than 25ml of liquid of botanical distillate goes into
each bottle. The rest is neutral spirit and water.
COLD COMPOUNDED
Historically considered an inferior technique,
cold compounded gin is made by adding
flavourings to neutral spirit and bottling it
rather than adding flavours through distillation.
Popular gin styles
LONDON DRY
Characterised by soft pine and
citrus in the nose and on the
palate, nothing can be added
after distillation except water and neutral spirit.
Tanqueray, Sipsmith, Star of Bombay and The
Botanist are all London Drys.
OLD TOM
Made with exponentially more liquorice and no
savoury botanicals, it comes across as a
sweetened gin. The first commercial Old Tom
was sold in 1812. Cheap imitations were
sweetened with sugar after distillation. An 1823
British dictionary of slang explains that Old
Tom took its name from the vessel it was stored
in, a large barrel nicknamed Old Tom. There
are a few brands available, such as Hayman’s.
PLYMOUTH GIN
Until very recently, this was an appellation, and
could only come from Plymouth, UK. It has
more sweet citrus notes than London dry.
It’s both a type and brand in itself.
1\UL Omagazine.com
117
EXPERT
Botanicals
Strawberry
jaffa cakes
Some common botanicals used in gin include:
JUNIPER BERRIES
Not berries at all, they are the female seed
cones of the juniper bush. The scales are
fleshy and merged together giving them the
appearance of berries. The best come from the
Mediterranean as juniper needs that specific
soil and climate to produce the best flavour.
Orange peel
Rosemary
ORANGE AND LEMON PEELS
Harvested and dried in the Mediterranean,
these peels bring a range of flavours to the
foretaste of gin from marmalade and cream
to bright fresh citrus.
CORIANDER SEEDS
Making up equal volume to the juniper
in many gin formulas, coriander seeds
bring lemongrass and black pepper notes
(depending on the variety). These flavours
generally appear in the aftertaste.
Coriander
seeds
ORRIS
The root of the Florentine iris flower imparts
subtle violet notes.
CASSIA
Bolder than its close cousin cinnamon, it
highlights the warm spice notes of the juniper.
Cinnamon
Pink
peppercorns
Black
peppercorns
Cardamon
Juniper
berries
118 Omagazine.com 1\UL
CINNAMON
More complex than cassia, it adds rich, round,
warming spice notes.
ANGELICA
The seeds are common in Indian cuisine,
the candied stems are a lost English
confection, but it is the roots that are used
in gin. Angelica is considered a binding
agent, bringing balance to the other flavours.
It’s a very complex botanical: herbaceous,
sweet, savoury, and peppery with hints
of celery.
LIQUORICE
A kilo of sugar in the still wouldn’t effect the
flavour of the distillate as sugar stays behind
in distillation. A tiny bit of liquorice, however,
gives a distinct sensation of sweetness. An
old Yorkshire crop (think Pontefract cakes),
it’s now primarily grown in India and on the
Arabian peninsula. The bulk is sold to the
American tobacco industry to sweeten
their products.
Last bite
recipe
40 MINUTES + COOLING + SETTING
MAKES 12 | A LITTLE EFFORT
sunflower oil
strawberries N O\SSLK HUK YV\NOS`JOVWWLK
strawberry jelly cubes N WHJR
dark chocolate N IYVRLUPU[VJO\URZ
whipping cream [IZW
:765.,
eggs TLKP\T `VSRZ HUK ^OP[LZ
golden caster sugar N
plain flour N
ground almonds N
vanilla extract[ZW
)Y\ZO H JTZX\HYL [YH` ^P[O Z\UMSV^LY VPS [OLU SPUL
P[ ^P[O JSPUNMPST +PZZVS]L [OL QLSS` J\ILZ PU TS VM
IVPSPUN ^H[LY ¶ Z[PYYPUN \U[PS M\SS` KPZZVS]LK >OPaa [OL
Z[YH^ILYYPLZ [V H W\YtL [OLU WYLZZ [OYV\NO H ZPL]L [V
YLTV]L [OL ZLLKZ HUK KPZJHYK 4P_ [OL W\YtL ^P[O [OL
QLSS` WV\Y PU[V [OL WYLWHYLK [YH` HUK JOPSS \U[PS MPYTS` ZL[
;V THRL [OL ZWVUNLZ OLH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU
*NHZ HUK \ZL H SP[[SL VPS [V IY\ZO SHYNL T\MMPU
[PU OVSLZ [OLU SPUL [OL IHZLZ ^P[O JPYJSLZ VM IHRPUN
WHYJOTLU[ VY \ZL H ZPSPJVUL T\MMPU [YH` PM `V\ OH]L VUL
0U H IPN IV^S ILH[ [OL LNN `VSRZ ^P[O [OL Z\NHY \U[PS
WHSL HUK MYV[O` [OLU TP_ PU MSV\Y HSTVUKZ [IZW
Z\UMSV^LY VPS HUK ]HUPSSH L_[YHJ[ )LH[ [OL LNN ^OP[LZ PU
H ZLWHYH[L IV^S \U[PS Z[PMM WLHRZ MVYT 4P_ VUL[OPYK VM
[OL ^OP[LZ PU[V [OL `VSR TP_[\YL [V SVVZLU P[ [OLU NLU[S`
MVSK PU [OL YLZ[ ^P[O H IPN TL[HS ZWVVU VY ZWH[\SH :WVVU
IL[^LLU [OL T\MMPU OVSLZ [HW [OL [PU MPYTS` VUJL [V WVW
HU` IPN I\IISLZ [OLU IHRL MVYTPU\[LZ\U[PSYPZLU
HUK ZWYPUN` [V [OL [V\JO
9LSLHZL [OL JHRLZ HYV\UK [OL LKNLZ HUK JHYLM\SS`[\YU
V\[ VU[V H JVVSPUN YHJR [V JVVS JVTWSL[LS`
>OLU [OL JHRLZ HYL JVVS HUK [OL QLSS` ZL[ W\[ [OL
JOVJVSH[L HUK JYLHT PU H OLH[WYVVM IV^S HUK TLS[ NLU[S`
V]LY H WHU VM Z[LHTPUN ^H[LY 3LH]L [V JVVS ^OPSL `V\
HZZLTISL [OL IHZLZ OV[ JOVJVSH[L ^PSS TLS[ [OL QLSS`
-PUK H YV\UK J\[[LY H ZOHKL ZTHSSLY [OHU `V\Y JHRLZ
Z[HTW V\[ JPYJSLZ VM [OL QLSS` HUK ZP[ VUL VU LHJO
ZWVUNL :WVVU ZVTL JOVJVSH[LV]LYLHJOQLSS`HUK
SLH]L[VZL[ILMVYLLH[PUN
PER SERVING 244 KCALS | FAT 15.6G | SATURATES 7.3G
CARBS 20.2G | SUGARS 16.7G | FIBRE 2.4G
PROTEIN 4.2G | SALT 0G
COOK’S NOTES
Make a double batch of the sponges, ditch the chocolate, then
sandwich rounds of jelly with a little whipped cream between two
sponges. Dust with sugar for the cutest Victoria sponges ever.
3(:;)0;,7/6;6.9(7/@!(5;+<5*(5:;@305.!090:)964,;-66+:;@305.(5+9,*07,!:(9(/*662
Juniper
berries
LAST BITE
(/ *662
9LJPWL :(9
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(5;+<5*
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JAFFA CAKE
NEXT ISSUE ON SALE 17 JUNE: Osummer supermarket awards
Our best-ever veggie BBQ recipes | Show-off seafood
PLUS The best Mediterranean food trips and a weekend in Reykjavik
122 Omagazine.com1\UL
:;@305.!090:)964,;-66+:;@305.!:(9(/*662
p118
r
e
m
m
u
S
Exquisitely elegant and filled with
hints of fresh fruit and blossom,
this classic champagne exudes
style and finesse. Aged for a
minimum of three years, its
mouth-watering taste makes
it the perfect anytime aperitif.
Crafted with care. Best enjoyed the same way.
www.lansonchampagne.com
@champagnelanson
The
O
Y
ayo
ina Gh
r
b
a
S
f ro m
Moderrn British classics get
thee O treatment
get spicy m idwe ek
Best-ever
INSTANT
(
(AND
HEALTHY!)
ICE CREAM
P inn g C o o m b e s
o n Ma lays ia
erbocker
boozy knick
5
glory page
ur
Welcome to
w afe r
769;9(0;! 46>0, 2(@*6=,97/6;6.9(7/!(5;+<5*(5:;@305.!090:)9644,;
june
The days of bemoaning British cuisine are long gone. We’re no
longer the laughable rosbifs but pioneers of inspired international
cooking. From the farmers and producers grafting to create the best
ingredients, to the top chefs magicking them into world-class cuisine.
So it seems only right that we celebrate Liz, HRH the Queen’s,
second birthday this year (her real birthday was back in April) with
an almighty street party outside the palace gates with picnic
hampers of the best British food and drink. We felt suitably inspired
and have tips for hosting your own picnic if the weather holds out.
And if it doesn’t? Well we’ll be heading indoors for one of the
16 great afternoon tea suggestions we have across the country.
I’m rather partial to a savoury selection but whether you like cake,
dim sum or gin (yes, really – and P. S. I’ve been known to enjoy a
drop of the latter, too), there’s a bunch of tiered treats just for you.
So what does British food mean to you? Could it be the boozy
knickerbocker glory on our front cover? (Check out its components
opposite – just wow.) Or maybe it’s Sabrina Ghayour’s interpretation
of Middle Eastern cookery: we’ve got recipes from her new book
Sirocco that make entertaining easy. Pork pie take your fancy?
We’ve got the team behind London’s first pork pie trolley revealing
their recipe for the ultimate picnic. Or perhaps a jaffa cake
is more your thing? Make your own with the best of the season’s
strawberry crop, why don’t you?
Whatever you decide to cook from this issue, you’ll be better
informed than ever before. For the first time we’re listing all of our
gluten-free recipes, as well as the usual veggie/vegan/freezable/
low-cal numbers, on our index page (page 7). And, remember,
we’ve got exclusive extra content on our app, podcast and at
Omagazine.com if you can’t wait until next issue (we’re going all
out for BBQ season!). We also want to know your favourite way to
interact with us at O – is that reading the magazine, commenting
on our Facebook page, or listening to the podcast on the way to
work? Let us know – and be in with a chance of winning a one day
course, for two, at River Cottage HQ, with an overnight stay at Old
Park Hall – by entering our quick and easy survey (see page 19).
hin
ma ras c
cherry
o
va nil la
wh ipp ed
crea m
f re s h
b e r r ie s
blu e b e r r y
a n d s lo e
g in s a u c e
ra sp b e r r y
r ipp le ic e
c re a m
Until next time…
y a nd
st ra w b e r r
y
P im m’s je ll
Laura Rowe, Editor
@Omagazine
@lauraroweeats
SO WHAT IS O ?
We’ve the industry’s most passionate team of food and drink experts, gorgeous photography and inspired tried-and-tested (three
times!) recipes. Whether you’re cooking at home, eating out, or travelling with mealtimes in mind, O is the place to start.
1\UL Omagazine.com
3
EDITORIAL
EDITOR Laura Rowe
FOOD EDITOR Janine Ratcliffe
ART DIRECTOR Gillian McNeill
WEB & COMMISSIONING EDITOR Charly Morgan
TRAVEL EDITOR Rhiannon Batten
CHIEF SUB, PRODUCTION EDITOR & WRITER Gregor Shepherd
PICTURE EDITOR Gabby Harrington
COOKERY WRITER Anna Glover
SUB EDITOR & DRINKS WRITER Sarah Kingsbury
SENIOR DESIGNER Nicki Smith
JUNIOR DESIGNER Guy Goodwin
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT & DIGITAL WRITER Alex Crossley
To email us, please use fi[email protected]
RECIPE, RESTAURANT AND TRAVEL ENQUIRIES
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100
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O is owned and published by Immediate Media Company London
Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT. ISSN 1742/115.
Printed by Wyndeham Roche Ltd. Copyright Immediate Media Company
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Europe/Eire £65, rest of the world £85.
4 Omagazine.com 1\UL
40
CONTENTS
Need
to know
7 Recipe index
9
22
40 Eastern promise )YPSSPHU[ 4PKKSL
Here & now /V^ [V \ZL RLMPY WHJRPUN
[OL WLYMLJ[ WPJUPJ H ZWLLK` TLHS
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17 Just sayin’ ;VU` 5H`SVY SH\UJOLZ OPZ
*HTWHPNU -VY 9LHS 9LZ[H\YHU[ ,UNSPZO
116 The lowdown ,]LY`[OPUN `V\ ULLK
[VRUV^HIV\[[OLNPUYL]VS\[PVU
50
52
cook
22 In season
,SKLYMSV^LY HY[PJOVRLZ
H\ILYNPULZ JV\YNL[[LZMLUULSHUK
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59
61
65
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HU OV\Y PUJS\KPUN SHTI HWYPJV[ HUK
MLUULS ZLLK SVSSPWVWZ ZJHSSVWZ ^P[O SPTL
JOPSSP HUK ZOHSSV[ KYLZZPUN JOHYNYPSSLK
ZX\PK ^P[O NYHWLMY\P[ HUK WVTLNYHUH[L
HUK VYHUNL JOPJRLU ^PUNZ
Bakewell tart :[LWI`Z[LWOLSW
MYVT O»Z [LZ[ RP[JOLU
Cook everyday 8\PJR HUK LHZ`
TPK^LLR TLHSZ PUJS\KPUN IYPJR JOPJRLU
^P[O OLYI I\[[LY ZHSHTP NHYSPJ NYLLUZ
HUK [HSLNNPV WPaaH HWWSLZVT[\T
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Freezer fillers .VVZLILYY` JY\TISLZ
Cherries ;OYLL ^H`Z [V\ZL[OPZ
PUZLHZVU PUNYLKPLU[
Healthy choices 3V^JHSVYPL SV^MH[
HUK NS\[LUMYLL TLHSZ PUJS\KPUN
4VYVJJHU ]LN HUK JOPJRWLH [HNPUL
aH»H[HY H\ILYNPUL HUK IHUHUHPJLJYLHT
118 Strawberry jaffa cake
*6=,9 9,*07,! 1(505, 9(;*30-, 7/6;6.9(7/! (5; +<5*(5
:;@30:;!090:)964,;-66+:;@30:;!:(9(/*662
GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR Julie Harris
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Dominic Murray
SENIOR MANAGEMENT ACCOUNTANT Len Bright
MANAGEMENT ACCOUNTANT Noma Pele
Boozy
knickerbocker
glory
30 MINUTES + SETTING
TIME | MAKES 4 | EASY
Dip the wafer in icing or melted chocolate, then
in sprinkles, if you like. Leave to set before eating.
strawberries N O\SSLK
raspberries N
icing sugar
lemon juice H ZX\LLaL
whipping cream TS
vanilla extract [ZW
Cornish clotted cream ice cream ZJVVWZ
raspberry ripple ice cream ZJVVWZ
fan-shaped ice-cream wafers
maraschino cherries with stalks
:;9(>),99@ (5+ 7044»: 1,33@
strawberry jelly _ NWHJRL[
Pimm’s TS
)3<,),99@ (5+ :36,.05*6476;,
blueberries N
caster sugar [IZW
sloe gin[IZW
Cover
recipe
For more
recipes visit
118
O
30
magazine.
com
Don’t miss these
98
eat
72 Afternoon delight
81
86
88
90
92
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Menu of the month ( JSHZZPJLHZ`
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Table hopping 6\Y UL^LZ[ YLZ[H\YHU[
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19 O prize draw – win a day
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100 Cook like a local: Malaysia
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105 Weekender: Budapest +PZJV]LY
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PER SERVING 871 KCALS | FAT 42.7G | SATURATES 26.5G
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PROTEIN 7.8G | SALT 0.1G
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BURSTING
WITH
NAPOLINA
PASSION
SINCE 1965
Pulses have long been a staple part of the Italian diet
and ours are treated with real love, care and attention.
They are carefully selected then rigorously checked to
ensure that only the best of the crop are chosen.
This attention to detail means that every soup, salad,
casserole or sauce you prepare with our pulses will be
bursting with wholesome flavour.
The heart of Italian cooking
www.napolina.com
NAPOLINA SUPPORTS
INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF PULSES
Here
now
&
How to use kefir,
packing the perfect
picnic, and a speedy
meal for one
HERE & NOW
Cod cheeks,
pickled cucumber
and kefirW
PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLING: ANNA GLOVER.
WORDS: ALEX CROSSLEY, ANNA GLOVER, JANINE RATCLIFFE, LAURA ROWE
Compiled by
GREGOR SHEPHERD
TRENDSPOTTER
Each month, the O team tracks
down a hot new chef and reveals one
of their top trends for the year. This
time, Dean Parker of The Manor in
Clapham, reveals how to use kefir
in home cooking
»
June 2016 Omagazine.com
9
You might need an
epicurean dictionary
to decipher the ultraseasonal menu at The Manor in Clapham,
London, but thanks to chef and keen urban
gardener Dean Parker, this erudition also
means there’s always a new ingredient to try.
One such is kefir.
“Similar to drinkable yogurt in consistency
and flavour, kefir is fermented milk containing
beneficial yeast and probiotic bacteria. We
use kefir as seasoning; it adds acidity,
preserves milk and, of course, it adds
nutrition, such as living bacteria. We make
it ourselves using double cream, whole milk,
and kefir spores, which you can buy online,”
says Dean, who worked at The Ledbury,
Sauterelle, and Tom Aiken’s before becoming
head chef at The Manor, sister restaurant
to The Dairy.
Here Dean uses it with cod cheeks and
pickled cucumbers for a fresh, summery
taste. [OLTHUVYJSHWOHTJV\R
Cod cheeks,
pickled cucumber
and kefir
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS
A STARTER | EASY
)\` JVK JOLLRZ MYVT H MPZOTVUNLY Q\Z[ HZR
[OLT [V YLTV]L [OL ZRPU HUK I\` RLMPY MYVT
ocado.com VY wholefoodsmarket.com
cod cheeks 4 skinless, patted dry
with kitchen paper
vegetable oil for frying
lemon ¼, zested and juiced
dill ½ a bunch, chopped
gherkin 1, chopped
fresh horseradish root grated to
make 1 tsp
PICKLE
mint 10 leaves, chopped
bay leaves 2
black peppercorns 12
golden caster sugar 15g
salt 6g
sauternes wine 50ml
10 Omagazine.com June 2016
cucumber ½, thinly sliced with a veg peeler
KEFIR
kefir 150ml
crème fraîche 50g
SPLIT DRESSING
gherkin brine 50ml (from the jar)
chervil or parsley a small handful of leaves
sorrel or rocket ½ a handful
olive oil 50ml
CRUMB
olive oil for frying
panko breadcrumbs 4 tbsp
• To make the pickle, put everything except
the cucumber into a small pan with 200ml
of water, and bring to a boil to dissolve the
sugar. Pour over the cucumber, leave
to cool, then cover in clingfilm and chill.
• Mix the kefir and crème fraîche and
season. Cover and chill.
• To make the split dressing, put all the
ingredients into a small blender and whizz
until it forms a purée. Season and chill.
• Remove the cod from the fridge 30
minutes before cooking to bring up
to room temperature.
• For the crumb, heat a drizzle of oil in
a frying pan, then add the breadcrumbs
and fry until lightly golden. Scoop out,
drain on kitchen paper, and season.
• Lightly season the cod cheeks with salt
and pepper. Heat a frying pan to very hot,
and add 1 tbsp vegetable oil. Put the cod
cheeks into the pan, and once golden (about
a minute), turn them over, take the pan off
the hob and leave the cheeks in the pan for
5 minutes, to cook in the residual heat. Put
the cheeks in a small bowl. Squeeze the
lemon juice into the pan, put back on the
heat, and deglaze it. Pour over the cod
cheeks. Add the dill, gherkins, lemon zest
and grated horseradish, and toss gently
with the cod.
• Spoon the kefir across half the bases of
4 small, shallow bowls, drizzle the dressing
over and marble with a spoon.
• Put 2 pickled cucumber pieces on the
uncovered side of plate. Spoon the cod
cheeks on and lightly sprinkle the crumb over.
PER SERVING 394 KCALS | FAT 23.2G | SATURATES 6.2G
CARBS 14G | SUGARS 3.1G | FIBRE 1.5G
PROTEIN 30.7G | SALT 2.2G
Quick
BITES
Products we’ve tried
and liked this month
This time, Sandra Ziles, head of product
development at M&S, has helped the O
team to select the best products to pack in
a picnic. All of these, which are made across the UK, are
available from M&S stores.
“A summer picnic hamper
isn’t complete without an
assortment of sandwiches
on the menu, and this
Patron’s Lunch Best of
British Sandwich Selection fits the bill perfectly.
It’s a classic combination of Northern Irish roast beef,
Scottish smoked trout, applewood smoked Wiltshire
ham and Welsh mature cheddar cheese with Windsor
apple chutney. £3.30
Ship’s Biscuits from the Pembrokeshire
Beach Food compny make great savoury
picnic snacks. Captain Cat’s Môr Seasoning
gives the fish-shaped biscuits notes of
paprika, citrus and seaweed. £3/70g
Ditty Irish smoked oatcakes don’t
hold back on the smokiness but have
a great sweetness, too, making them
ideal with tangy hard cheese.
£3/150g
Piccalilli-topped mini pork pies
from Melton Mowbray combine
two British foods in one mouthful.
£2.50/200g
M&S’s 3-year-old vintage
Cornish cruncher cheddar
packs an umami punch.
Cut it into chunks
and enjoy it with slices of apple. £5/300g
We love this moreish vanilla fudge from
family-run Matt & Ben’s Proper Fudge
in Wales. The ideal sweet treat to finish
a picnic. £4/150g
PHOTOGRAPH OF DEAN PARKER: JT PHOTOGRAPHER
Dean Parker’s
trend
HERE & NOW
FOOD EDITOR’S SHOPPING BASKET
Janine Ratcliffe’s favourite new products
Beef labelled ‘Scotch beef’ is unique in that it holds a PGI status (protected
geographical indication). This means that the beef has been sourced from
selected Scottish farms with the best possible animal welfare and natural
production methods, and is fully traceable back to its source. This careful
handling produces superior meat, which is rightly championed by chefs
such as Tom Kitchin who serves it in his Michelin-starred Edinburgh restaurant, The Kitchin.
Look for the Scotch beef PGI label in butchers and supermarkets. ZJV[JOILLMHUKSHTIJVT
Feather steaks with
chimichurri and sweet
potato fries
30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
:JV[JO ILLM OHZ H KLLW YPJO MSH]V\Y HUK
PZ NYLH[ ^P[O H W\UJO` ZH\JL Z\JO HZ
(YNLU[PUPHU JOPTPJO\YYP -LH[OLY Z[LHRZ HYL
HZOV\SKLYJ\[HUKHYLIYPSSPHU[MVYMSHZOMY`PUN
sweet potato 1 large, peeled and cut
into thin fries
olive oil
feather steaks 2
CHIMICHURRI
flat-leaf parsley ½ a small bunch,
finely chopped
oregano leaves a small handful, chopped
red chilli 1, small finely chopped
garlic ½ clove, chopped
smoked paprika 1 tsp
olive oil 3 tbsp
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp
• Heat the oven to 190C/fan 170C/gas 5.
Toss the fries with olive oil and season. Spread
out on a tray and cook until golden and crisp,
about 20-25 minutes.
• Mix together the chimichurri ingredients
and season.
• Heat a griddle or heavy frying pan to high. Oil
and season the steak then cook for 2 minutes
on each side. Leave to rest for 5 minutes.
Serve the steak with the fries and chimichurri.
PER SERVING 622 KCALS | FAT 35.6G | SATURATES 9G
CARBS 29.8G | SUGAR 15.7G | FIBRE 6G | PROTEIN 42.7G
SALT 0.4G
June 2016 Omagazine.com
11
ANNA’S QUICK FIXES
O’s cookery writer, Anna Glover,
serves up a speedy brunch for one
Summer eggs florentine
15 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
olive oil
garlic 1 clove, halved
spinach, chard or cabbage 200g
Dijon mustard 1 tsp
lemon juice 1 tsp
dill or tarragon chopped to make 1 tbsp
English muffin 1, halved and lightly toasted
vine tomato 1, sliced
eggs 2, poached to serve
• Heat a drizzle of olive oil in a pan, add one
of the garlic pieces and the greens. Fry for
a few minutes until wilted and the stalks are
tender, but still have a little bite. Fish out
the garlic and discard. Season the greens.
• Whisk the Dijon, lemon juice, herbs
and 2 tbsp olive oil. Add a pinch of sugar
and some seasoning.
• Rub the cut sides of the toasted muffin
with the other piece of garlic, put onto a
plate. Top with the wilted greens, tomato
slices, poached eggs and drizzle over the
vinaigrette. Add a few more herbs to serve.
PER SERVING 572 KCALS | FAT 37.9G | SATURATES 6.9G
CARBS 29.2G | SUGAR 6G | FIBRE 4.6G
PROTEIN 26.1G | SALT 1.7G
Psst..
HAVE YOU SEEN THIS?
If you’re in London this month and
want to cram as much eating into
your trip as you can (we don’t blame
you) you should head to Taste of
London in Regent’s Park on 15-19
June. More than 40 of the
capital’s top restaurants, along
with chefs from across the
UK, will be cooking
throughout the park during
the five days. Some 200
different signature dishes will
be available to taste created by the
12 Omagazine.com June 2016
chefs including Dan Doherty
(pictured left), José Pizarro, Ben
Tish, Monica Galetti, Pierre Koffmann
and Nathan Outlaw. New for this
year is a dedicated dessert hour
each day, plus there’ll be
opportunities to learn some new
skills for free (from champagne and
food pairing to sausage making), try
some of the UK’s finest craft beer,
and more. Tickets start at £16,
[HZ[LVMSVUKVUJV\R
HERE & NOW
Avocuddle
Cards/stationery
Say it with food. A range of cards and
stationery taking inspiration from the
edible. Personalised options available.
From £3.50, WHWPLYJVT
Ringleader
4 Ferm Living brass napkin rings
Danish design in action. Time to
up your table dressing game.
£44, IVYV\NORP[JOLUJVT
Kitchen craver
Because you can never have
too much kitchen stuff…
Ppppick up a..
Penguin cocktail shaker and ice bucket
Just add ice. And booze. Definitely booze.
£35 & £55,NYHOHTHUKNYLLUJV\R
Morning fix
Large mug
We like those kinds of
odds. For whenever you
need a fix: coffee, tea,
whatever. £10,[`WVJVT
Tray tray
Katie Alice pretty retro
birchwood tray
A summery drinks tray from
British designer Katie Alice,
inspired by trips to Stockholm.
£17, LUNSPZO[HISLJVT
Chop chop
Wild and Wolf mini
modern wooden
chopping board
This chopping board
is handmade from
eco-friendly raw materials
and, even better, it’s
handsome enough to leave
out on the kitchen counter, too.
£27.95, TPUPTVKLYUZJVT
Tasty slice
MUJI pop-up toaster
Deliciously minimal.
£59.95, T\QPL\
Blank canvas
Denby natural canvas
textured large mug
Hey good lookin’. Still as
stylish now as the iconic
’60s design it was
inspired by. £14,
stockists at KLUI`JV\R
Tea total
Moroccan tealeidoscope iced
green teapot Make tea time a
ritual again with this colourful pot,
complete with a loose-leaf strainer
inside. £50, [[LHJVT
»
June 2016 Omagazine.com
13
HERE & NOW
FRIDGE
RAIDER
Ever wondered what your favourite foodie has
lurking in their fridge? We ask blogger and
food nutrition student Izy Hossack
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14 Omagazine.com June 2016
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FOLLOW
Izy’s blog
topwithcinnamon.com
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O
EXPERT EYE: PACKING A PICNIC
PHOTOGRAPH: LARA HOLMES
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[YHUZMVYTLK PU[V HU HSTPNO[` Z[YLL[ WHY[` ^P[O WPJUPJ OHTWLYZ
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To help keep your picnic fresh it’s worth investing in
a good-quality cool bag. Keep the food in the fridge right
up until the last minute, and if you’re planning a longer
journey, add a couple of freezer blocks to the bag to help
keep things cool.
Don’t forget the crockery and cutlery! Plastic or wooden
cutlery is light to carry and reusable, but you can take your
own crockery and cutlery from home. Just remember to
wrap it up well – you don’t want to damage any fragile items.
You can be as creative as you like with the food
– as long as you can eat it cold anything goes! To help
avoid the dreaded soggy sandwich, mix the salad filling with
mayonnaise to stop the juices leaking into the bread. Or, as
a picnic is all about sharing anyway, take the individual
sandwich ingredients along with a couple of freshly baked
baguettes and let everyone make their own.
Crudités and dips travel well and are great to nibble on
while you unpack the picnic.
Freeze juices to keep the drinks and food cool (as they’ll
double up as a cool block). This summer we’re seeing
a trend for South American inspired soft drinks, like
our watermelon and lime agua fresca from Mexico
(£2.20/750ml).
Beers and pre-mixed cocktails are perfect for picnics,
too: we’ve got a new American coconut IPA this year, made
with real coconut. Just remember to chill them before you
set off (£1.85/330ml).
Cater for the right amount of guests so that you don’t
end up with unwanted food and always take a bin liner and
wet wipes for the clean-up! THYRZHUKZWLUJLYJVT
TRAVEL LIGHT Lightweight clothing you can layer won’t
only lessen your load, but will also keep you warmer as it traps
heat. A lightweight, quick dry towel is also essential.
O
CONVENIENT CARRYALLS Keep valuables safe and make
easy work of swimming and exploring by investing in a waterproof bag.
O
WHERE SHOULD I HEAD? Heading south? Visit UNESCO
World Heritage site Durdle Door. In the North, take on the Lake
District, home to more than 80 lakes.
After your swim, keep warm and re-fuel. With nourishing ingredients
WIN!
For your chance to win
a SwimTrek UK day trip*, visit
New Covent Garden Soup at
facebook.com/ncgsoup
or on Twitter
@NewCoventGarden
For more information and inspiration, visit
newcoventgardensoup.com and swimtrek.com
*
TERMS AND CONDITIONS: CLOSING DATE FOR ENTRIES IS 11.59PM ON 30 JUNE 2016. COMPETITION OPEN
TO UK RESIDENTS AGED 18+ ONLY. FOR FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS VISIT FACEBOOK.COM/NCGSOUP
ENJOY THE SECRET OF
AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS.
It’s no secret that Cauldron has been making
delicious food for over 30 years. From veggie
sausages, organic tofu and Great Taste Award
^PUUPUN MHSHMLSZ H ^VYSK VM ÅH]V\YZ H^HP[Z `V\
So start your Cauldron adventure today at
www.cauldronfoods.co.uk
OPINION
;VU`
5H`SVY
Just saying
,]LY VYKLYLK MYVT H TLU\ VUS` [V IL WYLZLU[LK ^P[O
ZVTL[OPUN HS[VNL[OLY \UL_WLJ[LK& ;VU` 5H`SVY MLLSZ
`V\Y WHPU HUK PU H IPK [V YLTV]L TLU\ NVIISLKLNVVR
OL»ZSH\UJOPUNOPZ*HTWHPNU-VY9LHS9LZ[H\YHU[,UNSPZO
769;9(0;! +(=0+ *6;:>69;/
W
e’ve all been there.
You’re sitting in a
rather la-di-dah
restaurant – the sort
of place where staff
glide around as if on
casters, discreetly
refilling wine glasses with an almost balletic grace.
All is calm, all is serene. That is, until you open
the menu and realise, with a giddy, rising panic,
that you don’t know what half of it means.
You stare at the ‘menu degustation’ (a tasting
menu, to you and me), as your party whispers backand-forth: “What the hell is ‘cromesqui?’ How do
you make milk from hay? Wasn’t Penny Wort in
The Avengers? How do you pronounce ‘spaetzle?’”.
There’s hurried debate and much guesswork,
falling back on half-remembered episodes of Rick
Stein’s French Odyssey. The waiter approaches,
palms get clammy, voices become tight and, finally,
as the order pad is produced you just blurt out,
pointing: “I’ll have that one!”
There are several reasons why restaurant menus
are often littered with obscure foreign words and
perplexing concepts, but the main one is that,
basically, chefs are a bit weird. Most of them have
been in kitchens 18 hours a day since the age of
16. They rarely see daylight. They read cookbooks
to relax. They seldom talk to anyone outside the
food world. It’s like the army (or prison) and,
consequently, they have developed their own
private language of historic French cooking jargon
and portmanteau slang for dishes, techniques and
ingredients. What they forget is that we civilians
find this baffling.
Occasionally, that is their devious aim. There’s
nothing like a dash of continental kitchen
terminology – a pane carasau here, a ballotine
there – to make a pedestrian menu sound
exotic. It justifies at least another £20 a head.
Similarly, some chefs are simply show-offs. They
flaunt their knowledge, not least to intimidate
customers. The message is: “I am an expert who
knows what is best for you. Do not question my
food. Do not complain”.
It’s a conceit that food snobs perpetuate. These
self-proclaimed ‘connoisseurs’ think that being
able to pronounce Noilly Prat correctly is evidence
of their superior taste and discrimination. Rubbish.
They may rudely correct you if you order broo-shetta instead of broo-sketta, but their palates are no
more refined than yours.
For those new to good food, for Brits terrible with
foreign languages, for those who think that veneur
plays for Arsenal (it’s a game sauce), all of this
makes eating out far more stressful than it should
be. Which is why, in O’s British issue, I’m
launching the Campaign For Real Restaurant
English. The idea is to provide clarity where there
is culinary confusion, in the following key ways:
Clear pronunciation There are words
(nocellara; chorizo; quinoa), which we all struggle
with. I know one senior British food journalist who,
such is the temptation to bring a Gallic flourish to
all things food, used to pronounce turbot, “turbo”.
And let’s not kid ourselves that waiting staff are
infallible here, either. In a bar, I recently ordered
a hefeweizen in perfectly accented German, only
for the server to stare at me blankly. After an
awkward explanation, she clicked. “Ah, you mean
the wheat beer!” This was a double-bind. The
menu needlessly listed it as hefeweizen and I was
foiled by its own pretentiousness. This is crazy. In
any venue, the aim should be that people feel
comfortable and are able to communicate what
they would like clearly. Therefore, if there are
points of potential confusion on a menu, remove
them. There’s no shame in changing banh mi to
Vietnamese baguette or bao to steamed bun.
No-one wants to order a “bo” and then feel that
squirming embarrassment as the waiter corrects
their pronunciation: “Yes, sir, ‘the bough’.”
Fanciful French Blame Britain’s historic
culinary inferiority complex, or chefs having been
trained in classical French kitchens, but menus are
often a minefield of opaque French terms such as
mi-cuit (part-cooked), boudin noir (black pudding),
en gelée (jellied), Viennoiserie (pastries), all of
which have perfectly good and readily understood
English equivalents. You may quibble that there’s
no direct translation of pithivier, but who will
complain if you call it a pasty or pie?
Technical showboating This attempt by
restaurants to communicate their highbrow
credentials in a kind of code takes many forms, all
needlessly inscrutable. For instance, ‘ribeye, 45’
does not accurately explain that it is a 45-day-aged
steak, just as ‘duck egg 62°’ is an unnecessarily
hip, mysterious way of saying soft-boiled egg.
Likewise, foam is foam. It does not need sexy spin.
Calling it an espuma is gobbledygook and a
cappuccino is something else entirely.
Mystery ingredient list Call me old-fashioned,
but unless I implicitly trust the chef, I can’t abide
minimalist dish descriptions in the vein of ‘pork,
shallots, carrots, arrogance’ or ‘beef, smoked hops,
hope’. I want a clear outline of how those
components will be rendered on the plate.
Occasionally, chefs get too wrapped-up in their
own shorthand. They forget we diners are here.
Muntjac is not instantly recognisable as venison,
just as very few people know that skrei is a trendy
type of wild Norwegian cod (except for avid readers
of April’s issue of O, of course). “Nosotto”,
a diced vegetable, rice-free risotto, is definitely one
that would require explanation from the waiter. But
will we ask? Often not. Because, to put it bluntly,
in language we all understand, when eating-out,
no-one wants to be made to feel stupid.
@naylor-tony
1\UL Omagazine.com
17
Find Heinz 50%
less sugar Beanz in
Promotion valid on 4x415g Heinz 50% less sugar Beanz from
May 16th to June 12th in all Morrisons stores. Subject to availability.
Now on
promotion
at £2.00
PRIZE DRAW
WIN
A RIVER COTTAGE COOKERY
COURSE & B&B BREAK
IN DEVON FOR TWO!
*VTWSL[L O»Z VUSPUL Z\Y]L` HUK `V\ HUK H MYPLUK JV\SK
LUQV` H VULKH` JVVRLY` JV\YZL H[ 9P]LY *V[[HNL/8
WS\ZHZ[H`H[6SK7HYR/HSSI
IPU+L]VU
D
ear readers,
we need you!
We care about
what you think
here at O, so
discovering what you love
and what you don’t is
important to us. And
so we’re asking you to fill out a quick survey
to enter our prize draw. And, as a big thank
you, we’ve teamed up with River Cottage HQ
in Devon to offer a day course for you and a
friend with the expert team, plus an
overnight stay in a super-stylish suite at
nearby Old Park Hall, a prize worth £680!
Laura Rowe, Editor
To celebrate River Cottage HQ’s 10th
anniversary, one very lucky winner and a friend
will be going on a culinary adventure to its centre
of food excellence in Devon with an overnight
stay with its near neighbour, the quintessential
country pile, Old Park Hall.
The exclusive prize starts with a full day in
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s award-winning
cookery school at River Cottage HQ, an organic
smallholding in the beautiful countryside that
surrounds the Jurassic coastline. The one-day
course, led by a team of experts, is a fun,
informal introduction to River Cottage’s
nose-to-tail, plot-to-plate food, full of techniques
and ideas to inspire you to get cooking at home,
in line with its famous reputation for seasonal,
ethical produce.
After your rewarding work, you’ll get to eat the
fruits of your labour. And, what better way to
relax further and balance the quality of your
hands-on learning than with an overnight stay in
one of the luxurious suites of Old Park Hall.
Enjoy good old-fashioned hospitality in this
magnificent, cosy, transformed Scottish baronial
manor. Kick off your shoes, sink into comfy
armchairs and take in the ever-changing
landscape of the Devon hills from this discreet
bolthole that has everything covered for a truly
relaxing retreat. It’s the perfect place to reflect on
all your culinary achievements. rivercottage.net
VISIT immediate.co.uk/Oreadersurvey BY 1 JULY 2016 FOR A CHANCE TO WIN
Terms & conditions: ;OL WYVTV[LY VM [OPZ JVTWL[P[PVU PZ 0TTLKPH[L 4LKPH *VTWHU` 3VUKVU 3PTP[LK ;OL WYPaL PUJS\KLZ! [^V [PJRL[Z [V H VULKH` JV\YZL H[ 9P]LY /8 JV\YZL WS\Z HU V]LYUPNO[ Z[H` PU H Z\P[L
H[ 6SK 7HYR /HSS *VTWL[P[PVU JSVZLZ 1\S` ;OL YLZLY]H[PVU T\Z[ IL [HRLU I` +LJLTILY ,_JS\KLZ :H[\YKH` HYYP]HSZ ;OL WYPaL T\Z[ IL IVVRLK ^P[OPU VUL TVU[O VM [OL LUK VM [OL JVTWL[P[PVU
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^OLH[PU[VSLYHUJLZ -VYM\SS[LYTZHUKJVUKP[PVUZ]PZP[PTTLKPH[LJV\RO[LYTZHUKJVUKP[PVUZ
1\UL Omagazine.com
19
For more
recipes visit
O
magazine.
com
June
COOK
7/6;6.9(7/!(5;+<5*(5:;@305.!090:)964,;
,]LY` YLJPWL `V\»SS ULLK [OPZ
TVU[O PUJS\KPUN \WKH[LK
)YP[PZO JSHZZPJZ 4PKKSL ,HZ[LYU
LU[LY[HPUPUN KPZOLZ HUK SV[Z VM
X\PJROLHS[O`L]LY`KH`TLHSZ
Ham hock and pea croquettes | Bakewell tart
Salami and taleggio pizza | Thai coconut courgetti soup
Beef rib with bone marrow butter | Cinnamon gooseberry crumbles
1\UL Omagazine.com
21
Make the most of elderflower, artichokes, aubergines,
courgettes, fennel and broad beans this month
Recipes ANNA GLOVER Photographs MOWIE KAY
Charred artichokes
with preserved
lemon aïoli W
BUY IT NOW
Globe artichokes
are early in their
season, so there
are more tender
leaves around their
chokes and fewer
tough outer leaves.
The hairy part of
the choke and the
outermost leaves
aren’t edible, but
the fleshy part of the
inner leaves are, and
most of the tougher
leaves can be drawn
through your teeth
to get the edible
flesh. Eat them as
soon as possible
after buying!
22 Omagazine.com June 2016
COOK
STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE. FOOD STYLING: CHLOE RIDE
Thai coconut
courgetti soup W
Psst...
low calorie!
June 2016 Omagazine.com
23
salt, and sear
on both sides until
smoky and they take
on char lines.
• Serve with small pots
of the aïoli, lemon wedges to
squeeze over, and some crusty bread.
PER SERVING 455 KCALS | FAT 44.4G
SATURATES 6.6G | CARBS 4.1G | SUGARS 1.3G
FIBRE 10.4G | PROTEIN 4.6G | SALT 0.9G
Thai coconut courgetti soup
40 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
Charred artichokes with
preserved lemon aïoli
1 HOUR | SERVES 6 AS A STARTER | EASY | VEGETARIAN
egg yolks 2
lemon 1, juiced, plus wedges to serve
garlic 1 clove, crushed
olive oil
preserved lemons 2 small (from a jar),
well drained
globe artichokes 6
crusty bread to serve
• To make the aïoli, put the egg yolks, 2 tbsp
of the lemon juice, garlic and some seasoning
in a small blender and blitz until smooth (or
put in a jug and whizz with a stick blender).
Slowly drizzle in 250ml olive oil while still
blending, until it emulsifies and thickens.
• Cut the preserved lemons in half, scrape
out the seeds and flesh, and discard, leaving
just the peel. Chop very finely, and stir into
the aïoli. Cover and chill.
• Cut the top 1/3 off the globes with a sharp
knife, then trim the tips of the leaves with
scissors. Put them in a large pan, cover
with water and add the remaining lemon
juice, plus the squeezed lemon halves.
Bring to a boil, weighing down the artichokes
with an upturned plate if they’re bobbing
around too much. Simmer for 20-40
minutes, depending on the size, until
you can easily pull out a leaf from a globe.
• Strain the artichokes, and leave to cool
while you heat a griddle pan to very hot.
Cut the artichokes in half and remove the
hairy chokes with a teaspoon. Rub the
artichokes with a little olive oil, season with
24 Omagazine.com June 2016
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TLHUZ [OL ZV\W ^VU»[ JVVS KV^U T\JO
^OLU `V\ WV\Y P[ PU[V [OL IV^SZ HUK
[OL JV\YNL[[P ^VU»[ NV ^H[LY` I` ILPUN
ZPTTLYLK PU [OL ZV\W ;OL YLZPK\HS OLH[ VM
[OL ZV\W Q\Z[ SPNO[S` JVVRZ [OL JV\YNL[[L
SLH]PUN `V\ ^P[O WLYMLJ[S` HS KLU[L UVVKSLZ
*V]LY HUK JOPSS [OL YLTHPUPUN WHZ[L HUK RLLW
MVYH^LLRVY[^V[VTHRLH;OHPJ\YY`^P[O
courgettes 4 larger or 6 medium,
at room temperature
coconut oil
coconut milk 2 x 400g tins
vegetable or chicken stock 700ml
palm sugar 1 tbsp
lime 1, juiced, plus wedges to serve
fish sauce 1-2 tbsp
coconut cream to serve
THAI RED CURRY PASTE
shallots 4, chopped
red chillies 6 (seeded if you like)
lemongrass 2 stalks, outer layer removed
and finely chopped
garlic 6 cloves, peeled
galangal or ginger a thumb-sized piece,
peeled and sliced
coriander a bunch, leaves and
stems separated
shrimp paste 2 tsp
kaffir lime leaves 6, finely shredded
ground cumin 1 tsp
ground coriander 1 tsp
• To make the curry paste, bash the shallots,
chillies, lemongrass, garlic, galangal and
coriander stems in a large mortar with a
pestle until it forms a paste (or you can whizz
in a blender instead, if you like). Add the
shrimp paste, lime leaves, spices and 1 tsp
salt and bash or whizz again until smooth.
• Top and tail the courgettes, then use
a spiralizer to cut the courgettes, or very
thinly slice into noodles.
• Heat 2 tbsp coconut oil in a large pan and
fry 6 tbsp of the curry paste until fragrant,
about 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk, stock
and palm sugar and simmer for 10 minutes.
Divide the courgetti between 6 warmed
bowls. Season the soup with the lime juice
and fish sauce, and pour over the courgetti.
Scatter with coriander leaves, a drizzle of
coconut cream and serve with lime wedges.
PER SERVING 321 KCALS | FAT 26.9G | SATURATES 22.9G
CARBS 10.4G | SUGARS 7.6G | FIBRE 2.8G
PROTEIN 8G | SALT 1.8G
Thyme, elderflower
& lemon ice lollies
30 MINUTES + STEEPING OVERNIGHT + FREEZING
MAKES 10 | EASY | VEGAN
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YLK\JL [OL ^H[LY [V TS HUK Z[YHPU PU[V
Z[LYPSPZLK QHYZ 0[ ^PSS RLLW MVY \W [V H TVU[O PU
[OL MYPKNL 0M `V\ JHU»[ MPUK LSKLYMSV^LY OLHKZ
\ZL KPS\[LK JVYKPHS HUK Z[LLW ^P[O [OL SLTVU
HUK[O`TLPU[OLMYPKNLV]LYUPNO[
golden caster sugar 500g
elderflower heads 4, washed
lemons 2
thyme a small bunch
• Put the caster sugar and 1 litre of water in
a pan and bring to a simmer. Make sure the
sugar has dissolved. Wash the elderflower
heads gently under cold water. Peel the rind
from 1 lemon into strips with a peeler.
• Remove the sugar syrup from the heat. Add
the elderflower heads, lemon strips, the juice
from the peeled lemon and most of the thyme
(leave 5 sprigs for decoration). Leave to cool,
cover, and steep overnight.
• Strain the liquid through a piece of muslin
or clean tea towel into a jug. Taste the liquid
and if it’s too sweet for you, dilute with water
and add more lemon juice. It should be a bit
sweeter than you like it, as the freezing
process will take the sweetness down a little.
• Slice the remaining lemon, put 1 slice each
in 10 ice-lolly moulds, and a small sprig of
thyme. Pour the elderflower liquid into the
moulds, add a lolly stick and freeze overnight.
PER SERVING 205 KCALS | FAT 0.1G | SATURATES 0G
CARBS 50.7G | SUGARS 50.1G | FIBRE 0.5G
PROTEIN 0.1G | SALT 0G
COOK
Th ym
er
e rf lo w
d
l
e
,
e
& le mo n i
c e l o l lie s
BUY IT NOW
Elderflowers, from
elder trees, are in
season from the
end of May to the
beginning of June.
You can usually find
them on the sides
of canals or in parks
(just make sure you
know what you’re
picking!). If you can’t
find any locally, try
greensofdevon.com
to buy online.
June 2016 Omagazine.com
25
Broad bean fritters with
herby whipped goat’s
cheese and bacon crumbs
30 MINUTES | SERVES 3 | EASY
:LY]L HU` ^OPWWLK NVH[»Z JOLLZL
SLM[V]LY ^P[O JOLLZL JYHJRLYZ
JYPZWIYLHKZVYVUJYVZ[PUPHZHJHUHWt
soft goat’s cheese 200g
soft cheese 100g
olive oil
mint leaves chopped to make 1 tbsp
chives a small bunch, chopped
smoked streaky bacon 4 rashers
plain flour 125g
baking powder ½ tsp
egg 1, beaten
milk 150ml
lemon 1, zested
broad beans 250g, weighed after being
double-podded
• Whisk the goat’s cheese, soft cheese,
1 tbsp oil and a pinch of salt in a bowl
with an electric whisk until light and fluffy.
Fold in the mint and 1 tbsp chopped chives.
Cover and chill. Grill the bacon until crisp.
• Tip the flour and baking powder into a bowl
with ½ tsp salt. Make a well and whisk in the
egg and milk until you have a smooth batter.
Fold in the lemon zest, broad beans and
most of the remaining chives.
• Heat a non-stick frying pan with a drizzle
of oil. Add spoonfuls of the batter to the
pan to make 8cm wide fritters. When they
start to set, and bubbles come to the
surface in the batter, flip, and cook for a few
more minutes until lightly golden on both
sides. Keep warm under foil while you
make the rest.
• Serve the fritters with spoonfuls
(make quenelles by moulding
the cheese between 2 spoons,
if you like) of the whipped goat’s
cheese on top. Crumble over
the bacon, and sprinkle with
chives to serve.
PER SERVING 682 KCALS
FAT 40.8G | SATURATES 21.7G
CARBS 40.7G | SUGARS 4.8G
FIBRE 7.7G | PROTEIN 34.2G
SALT 3.8G
26 Omagazine.com June 2016
COOK
Baba ganoush with
cumin crispbreads
1¼ HOURS + RESTING | SERVES 4 AS A SNACK
EASY | VEGAN
:LY]L HZ H TLaL Z[HY[LY ^P[O O\TT\Z
VSP]LZ SHTI RVM[L VY MHSHMLS @V\ JHU RLLW
[OL JYPZWIYLHKZ PU HUHPY[PNO[JVU[HPULYMVY
\W[V[OYLLKH`Z
aubergines 2
garlic 2 cloves, crushed
tahini 2 tbsp
lemon 1/2, juiced
cayenne pepper ¼-½ tsp
extra-virgin olive oil
flat-leaf parsley ½ a small bunch,
finely chopped
CRISPBREADS
strong white bread flour 200g, plus
more for dusting
golden caster sugar 1 tsp
cumin seeds 1 tbsp, toasted
• Heat the oven to 170C/fan 150C/gas 3½.
Put the flour, 1 tsp salt, sugar and cumin
seeds into a bowl. Add 125ml warm water
and knead to make a dough. Tip onto a
floured worksurface and keep kneading until
very smooth. Transfer to a clean bowl and
rest for 30 minutes. Divide into 2 pieces, and
roll the dough out as thin as you can on the
floured surface, it should be about 2mm thick.
• Carefully transfer the breads to 2 baking
paper-lined trays and bake for 30-35 until
crisp and golden. Allow to cool on a cooling
rack, then break into shards.
• Heat the grill to high. Pierce the skins of the
aubergines all over with a skewer. Put on a
baking tray and grill for 20-25 minutes, turning
halfway through. The skin should be charred
and the flesh soft all the way through when
you press it. Leave to cool for a few minutes.
• Cut the grilled aubergines in half
lengthways, and scoop out the flesh with
a spoon, discarding the skin. Put the flesh into
a blender with ½ tbsp salt, a good grinding
of pepper, the garlic, tahini, lemon juice,
cayenne and 3 tbsp oil. Blitz to a smooth
paste. Stir in the parsley, and drizzle with
more oil. Serve with the crispbreads.
PER SERVING 395 KCALS | FAT 16.4G | SATURATES 2.4G
CARBS 45G | SUGARS 6.7G | FIBRE 10.7G
PROTEIN 11.5G | SALT 3.1G
June 2016 Omagazine.com
27
COOK
Quick confit salmon
with pickled fennel
40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
salmon fillets 2 skin on, about 150g each
thyme 2 sprigs
garlic 2 cloves, bashed
bay leaf 1
black peppercorns 6
olive oil 200ml-400ml
chopped dill to serve (optional)
PICKLED FENNEL
white wine vinegar 200ml
golden caster sugar 100g
black peppercorns 4
fennel 1 medium bulb
28 Omagazine.com June 2016
• Heat the white wine vinegar and the sugar
with a pinch of salt and the peppercorns until
the sugar has dissolved, then leave to cool.
Remove any green fronds from the top of the
fennel and keep them for later. Trim the base,
and finely slice the fennel on a mandoline or
with a sharp knife. Toss in the pickling liquid,
cover and chill.
• Put the salmon fillets into a pan they fit
snugly, but leave a little gap between them
so the oil will coat them. Add the thyme,
garlic, bay leaf and peppercorns. Cover with
olive oil until completely submerged (the
amount you need will depend on the size
of the pan) and put on a low heat. Cook
for 10-15 minutes until the fish is cooked
and looks translucent, or the internal temp
at the thickest part is 45C.
• Gently remove the fish from the oil to stop
it cooking, and pat with kitchen paper.
Season with salt and pepper. Drain the
fennel from the pickle liquid and divide
between 2 plates. Add the salmon fillet, and
top with the fennel fronds, or some
dill if you don’t have any.
PER SERVING 517 KCALS | FAT 37.5G | SATURATES 6.3G
CARBS 8G | SUGARS 7.1G | FIBRE 4.4G
PROTEIN 34.7G | SALT 0.2G
SCULPT
A LOPSIDED MEDITERRANEAN MASTERPIECE
OUR REDUCED FAT SPREADABLE
MADE WITH OLIVE OIL
Made in
BRITAIN
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p32
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30 Omagazine.com1\UL
OF BE
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p32
BUTTER
W
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FOOD STYLING: SAL HENLEY. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON
COOK
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1\UL Omagazine.com
31
Brown butter ice cream
35 MINUTES + FREEZING | MAKES 1.5 LITRES
A LITTLE EFFORT
)YV^U I\[[LY HKKZ H U\[[` JHYHTLSPZLK
MSH]V\Y[VJYLHT`]HUPSSHPJLJYLHT
unsalted butter N
whole milk TS
vanilla pod ZWSP[ HUK ZLLKZZJYHWLKV\[
demerara sugar N
egg yolks
double cream TSJVSK
7\[ [OL I\[[LY PU H ZTHSS WHU *VVR VU
H TLKP\T OLH[ HUK ^OPZR \U[PS [OL I\[[LY
OHZ [\YULK H KHYRNVSKLUIYV^UHUKZTLSSZ
U\[[` *VVS
7\[ [OL TPSR ]HUPSSH ZLLKZ HUK Z\NHY PU
H WHU ^P[O H WPUJO VM ZHS[ HUK IYPUN Q\Z[ [V
[OL IVPS Z[PYYPUN \U[PS [OL Z\NHY OHZ KPZZVS]LK
)LH[ [OL LNN `VSRZ ^P[O HU LSLJ[YPJ ^OPZR
NYHK\HSS` HKKPUN [OL IYV^U I\[[LY 9LOLH[ [OL
TPSR [OLU WV\Y V]LY [OL LNNZ ^OPZRPUN HZ `V\
NV 7V\Y [OL TP_ IHJR PU[V H JSLHU WHU V]LY
H SV^ OLH[ HUK Z[PY \U[PS [OL J\Z[HYK PZ [OPJR
LUV\NO [V JVH[ [OL IHJR VM [OL ZWVVU 2LLW
Z[PYYPUN HUK KVU»[ SL[ P[ V]LYOLH[ VY `V\»SS LUK
\W ^P[O ZJYHTISLK LNNZ ;OL ^OVSL WYVJLZZ
ZOV\SK [HRL HYV\UK TPU\[LZ
7V\Y [OYV\NO H ZPL]L PU[V H IV^S [OLU Z[PY
PU [OL JYLHT 7V\Y PU[V HU PJLJYLHT THRLY
HUK JO\YU \U[PS [OPJR VY WV\Y PU[V H MYLLaLY
IV_ HUK MYLLaL Z[PYYPUN L]LY` OV\Y VY ZV \U[PS
MYVaLU -YLLaL P[ PU P[Z IV_ \U[PS `V\ ULLK P[
)LMVYL ZLY]PUN W\[ [OL PJL JYLHT PU [OL
MYPKNL MVY TPU\[LZZV[OH[P[PZLHZ`
[VZJVVW
PER SERVING 254 KCALS | FAT 23.4G | SATURATES 14G
CARBS 8.9G | SUGARS 8.9G | FIBRE 0G
PROTEIN 1.8G | SALT 0.1G
COOK’S NOTES
Whisking the butter while it cooks guarantees
a deep, even colour as this prevents the milk
solids collecting on the bottom of the pan
and burning. Freeze the leftover egg whites
to make meringues another time. They will
keep for 12 months.
32 Omagazine.com1\UL
Rib of beef with bone
marrow butter
1 HOUR | SERVES 4 | EASY
*VVRPUN H O\NL YPI YVHZ[ JHU IL X\P[L
KH\U[PUN ZV ^L SV]L [OPZ ZPTWSPMPLK TL[OVK
HUK [OL IVUL THYYV^ I\[[LY [HRLZ P[ [V
[OL UL_[ SL]LS (ZR `V\YI\[JOLY[VZWSP[
[OLIVULZMVY`V\
rib of beef HIV\[ RN ZVTL[PTLZJHSSLK
J[L KL IVL\M-YLUJO[YPTTLK
olive oil
cracked black pepper
sea salt flakes
watercress KYLZZLK ^P[O lemon juice
HUK olive oil [V ZLY]L
)65, 4(996> )<;;,9
marrow bones ZWSP[SLUN[O^H`Z
soft butter N
shallots MPULS` JOVWWLK
flat-leaf parsleyHOHUKM\SJOVWWLK
COOK’S NOTES
Using a digital Thermapen or meat thermometer
will help you cook meat exactly as you like it.
For medium beef you’ll need a reading of 60C.
Ham hock and pea croquettes
45 MINUTES + CHILLING | MAKES ABOUT 40
A LITTLE EFFORT
;Y` [V \ZL H ^OVSL OHT OVJR MVY [OPZ ZV
[OH[ `V\ JHU RLLW [OL WPLJLZ YLHSS` JO\UR`
)\[JOLYZ HUK SHYNLY Z\WLYTHYRL[ZZLSS
[OLTYLHK`JVVRLK
butter N
plain flour N
whole milk TS
mature cheddar N NYH[LK
cooked ham hockNZOYLKKLK
PU[V JO\URZ
frozen peas N KLMYVZ[LK
flat-leaf parsley HOHUKM\SMPULS`JOVWWLK
eggs ILH[LU
dried breadcrumbs N
groundnut oil MVY KLLW MY`PUN
English mustard[VZLY]L
;V THRL [OL IVUL THYYV^ I\[[LY OLH[ [OL
V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ 7\[ [OL
IVULZ VU H IHRPUN [YH` HUK JVVR PU [OL
V]LU MVY TPU\[LZ 6UJL JVVS LUV\NO
[V OHUKSL ZJYHWL [OL THYYV^MYVT[OL
IVULZ PU[V H IV^S
/LH[ H ZTHSS RUVI VM [OL ZVM[ I\[[LY PU
H WHU [OLU NLU[S` JVVR [OL ZOHSSV[Z ^P[O
H WPUJO VM ZHS[ \U[PS ]LY` ZVM[ *VVS [OLU [PW
[OL ZOHSSV[ THYYV^ [OL YLZ[ VM [OL I\[[LY HUK
WHYZSL` PU[V H IV^S :LHZVU ^LSS [OLU ILH[
L]LY`[OPUN ^P[O HU LSLJ[YPJ ^OPZR \U[PS
^OPWWLK HUK WHSL PU JVSV\Y >YHW PU[VHSVN
PU JSPUNMPST HUK RLLW PU [OL MYPKNL
;HRL [OL YPI V\[ VM [OL MYPKNL HIV\[
TPU\[LZ ILMVYL `V\ ^HU[ [V JVVR P[ 9\I
VSP]L VPS HSS V]LY [OL TLH[ [OLU ZLHZVU OLH]PS`
^P[O JYHJRLK ISHJR WLWWLY HUK ZLH ZHS[
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
/LH[ H NYPKKSL VY OLH]`IV[[VTLK MY`PUN WHU
[V ]LY` OV[ HUK ZLHY [OL ILLM ¶ Z[HY[PUN ^P[O
[OL MH[ ZPKL ZV [OL MH[ YLUKLYZ PU[V [OL WHU
:LHY [OL ILLM VU LHJO ZPKL \U[PS UPJLS`
IYV^ULK ¶ HIV\[ TPU\[LZ ¶ [OLU SPM[ PU[V
H YVHZ[PUN [PU HUK MPUPZO JVVRPUN PU [OL V]LU
MVY TPU\[LZ MVY TLKP\T [\YUPUN
OHSM^H` >OLU [OL ILLM PZ KVUL SL[ P[ YLZ[ MVY
TPU\[LZ :LY]L VU H IVHYK ^P[O ZSPJLZ
VM[OLI\[[LYHUKKYLZZLK^H[LYJYLZZ
4LS[ [OL I\[[LY PU H WHU HUK [OLU Z[PY PU [OL
MSV\Y [V THRL H [OPJR WHZ[L .YHK\HSS` Z[PY PU
[OL TPSR \U[PS `V\ OH]L H ZTVV[O ZH\JL
:PTTLY V]LY H SV^ OLH[ MVY TPU\[LZ
(KK [OL JOLLZL HUK Z[PY \U[PS TLS[LK [OLU
HKK [OL OHT WLHZ HUK WHYZSL` HUK ZLHZVU
:JVVW PU[V H [YH` VY KPZO JVVS [OLU JOPSS
JVTWSL[LS` PU [OL MYPKNL ;OPZ JHU [HRL
OV\YZ VY `V\ JV\SK THRL P[ [OL KH`
ILMVYL :JVVW V\[ SHYNL [HISLZWVVUZ VM [OL
TP_ HUK YVSS LHJO PU[V ZTHSS SVNZHYV\UK
JT SVUN HUK JT [OPJR
7\[ [OL ILH[LU LNN VU VUL WSH[L HUK
IYLHKJY\TIZ VU HUV[OLY 9VSS [OL JYVX\L[[LZ
PU [OL LNN [OLU [OL JY\TIZ 9LWLH[ ZV `V\
OH]L [^V SH`LYZ VM LNN HUK IYLHKJY\TIZ
-PSS H WHU UV TVYL [OHU M\SS ^P[O VPS HUK
OLH[ [V * VY \U[PS H J\IL VM IYLHK
IYV^UZ PU HYV\UK ZLJVUKZ [OLU KLLW MY`
[OL JYVX\L[[LZ PU IH[JOLZ MVY TPU\[LZ
\U[PS JYPZW HUK NVSKLU :JVVW V\[ HUK KYHPU
VU RP[JOLU WHWLY `V\ JHU RLLW [OL JVVRLK
JYVX\L[[LZ ^HYT PU H ]LY`SV^V]LU:LY]L
^P[O,UNSPZOT\Z[HYK
PER SERVING 415 KCALS | FAT 33.4G | SATURATES 13.9G
CARBS 0.7G | SUGARS 0.5G | FIBRE 0.3G
PROTEIN 27.8G | SALT 0.4G
PER SERVING 88 KCALS | FAT 6.1G | SATURATES 2.4G
CARBS 5.1G | SUGARS 0.9G | FIBRE 0.2G
PROTEIN 3.2G | SALT 0.3G
PEA
C
ND
ES
M
A
QUETT
HO C K
RO
A
COOK
1\UL Omagazine.com
33
H
TERMILK
UT
G
p36
PUDDIN
CE
RNT R
I
BU
B
34 Omagazine.com1\UL
K RA R
UC
S
MINI
IT
EB
B
COOK
p36
1\UL Omagazine.com
35
7\[ [OL WHU V]LY H SV^ OLH[ HUK IYPUN [OL
TPSR ZSV^S` [V [OL IVPS 9LK\JL [OL OLH[ HUK
ZPTTLY ]LY` NLU[S` MVY HIV\[ TPU\[LZ \U[PS
[OL YPJL PZ [LUKLY Z[PYYPUN VJJHZPVUHSS`
9LTV]L [OL ]HUPSSH WVK MYVT [OL YPJL HUK
SLH]L [V JVVS [V YVVT [LTWLYH[\YL
:[PY PU [OL JYLHT HUK I\[[LYTPSR HUK KP]PKL
IL[^LLU ZTHSS IV^SZ *OPSS MVY H JV\WSL
VM OV\YZ VY \U[PS `V\ ^HU[ [V LH[
;V ZLY]L ZWYPURSL ^P[O H SH`LY VM JHZ[LY
Z\NHY HUK JHYHTLSPZL \ZPUN H ISV^[VYJO VY
I` WSHJPUN \UKLY H OV[ NYPSS*OPSSMVYHUV[OLY
TPUZILMVYLZLY]PUN
PER SERVING 372 KCALS | FAT 21.3G | SATURATES 13.2G
CARBS 38.7G | SUGARS 18.4G | FIBRE 0.2G
PROTEIN 6G | SALT 0.2G
Mini buck rarebits
30 MINUTES | MAKES 12 | EASY
( >LSZO YHYLIP[ [VWWLK ^P[O HU LNN PZ
JHSSLK H I\JR YHYLIP[ ;OPZ]LYZPVUPZ
ILH\[PM\SS`IP[LZPaLK
Buttermilk burnt
rice pudding
35 MINUTES + COOLING | SERVES 6 | EASY
;OPZ PZ H THZO\W VM [^V JSHZZPJ )YP[
KLZZLY[Z" YPJL W\KKPUN HUK I\YU[ *HTIYPKNL
JYLHT @V\ KVU»[ OH]L [V JHYHTLSPZL[OL[VW
I\[P[HKKZHSV]LS`JY\UJO
pudding rice N
vanilla pod VY vanilla bean paste[ZW
whole milk TS
golden caster sugar NWS\ZL_[YH
[V MPUPZO
double cream TS
buttermilk TS
7\[ [OL YPJL PU H ZH\JLWHU HKK TS
^H[LY HUK IYPUN [V [OL IVPS 9LK\JL [OL OLH[
HUK ZPTTLY ]LY` NLU[S` MVY TPU\[LZ +YHPU
[OL YPJL HUK YL[\YU P[ [V [OL WHU :WSP[ [OL
]HUPSSH WVK PU OHSM ZJYHWL V\[ [OL ZLLKZ HUK
HKK [OL ZLLKZ HUK WVK [V [OLYPJLHSVUN
^P[O[OLTPSRHUKZ\NHY
36 Omagazine.com1\UL
mature cheddar N NYH[LK
English mustard[ZW
egg yolk
Worcestershire sauce H NVVKKHZO
brown VY red ale [IZW
sourdough VY country breadSVUNZSPJLZ
quail eggs
vegetable oil MVY MY`PUN
cayenne pepper
7\[ [OL JOLLZL T\Z[HYK LNN `VSR HUK
>VYJLZ[LYZOPYL ZH\JL PU H ZTHSS MVVK
WYVJLZZVY HUK ^OPaa HKKPUN LUV\NO HSL [V
THRL H WHZ[L ;VHZ[ [OL IYLHK [OLU [OPJRS`
ZWYLHK VU [OL YHYLIP[ -Y` [OL X\HPS LNNZ PU
]LNL[HISL VPS .YPSS [OL YHYLIP[ \U[PS NVSKLU HUK
I\IISPUN *\[ PU[V MPUNLYZ HUK [VW LHJO ^P[O
HMYPLKLNN:WYPURSL^P[OJH`LUUL[VMPUPZO
PER SERVING 157 KCALS | FAT 9.5G | SATURATES 5.1G
CARBS 8.9G | SUGARS 0.6G | FIBRE 0.4G
PROTEIN 8.9G | SALT 0.6G
Crab and Berkswell tarts
1 HOUR | MAKES 6 | EASY
)LYRZ^LSS PZ H OHYK L^L»Z TPSR JOLLZL ^P[O
H ZSPNO[ [HUN [OH[ NVLZ YLHSS` ^LSS PU JYLHT`
NYH[PUZ HUK [HY[Z0[»ZHWLYMLJ[WHY[ULYMVY
*VYUPZOJYHI
all-butter shortcrust pastry N
brown crabmeat N
eggs SHYNL ILH[LU
double cream TS
Berkswell VY pecorino N NYH[LK
tarragon JOVWWLK [V THRL[IZW
white crabmeat N
salad cress[VZLY]L
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
9VSS V\[ [OL WHZ[Y` [V [OL [OPJRULZZ VM H W
JVPU [OLU \ZL [V SPUL _ JT PUKP]PK\HS [HY[
[PUZ SL[[PUN [OL L_JLZZ V]LYOHUNPUN -PSS ^P[O
IHRPUN WHWLY HUK IHRPUN ILHUZ [OLU ISPUK
IHRL MVY TPU\[LZ ;HRL V\[ [OL WHWLY
HUK ILHUZ HUK JVVR MVY HUV[OLY TPU\[LZ
*VVS [OLU [YPT [OL L_JLZZ WHZ[Y` )YLHR
[OL IYV^U JYHI TLH[ \W PU H IV^S [OLU ILH[
PU [OL LNNZ JYLHT HUK JOLLZL :LHZVU
^P[O WLWWLY HUK H SP[[SLZHS[[OLUZ[PY
PU [OL [HYYHNVU
+P]PKL [OL ^OP[L JYHI IL[^LLU [OL [HY[
JHZLZ [OLU WV\Y V]LY [OL LNN TP_ 7\[ IHJR
PU [OL V]LU MVY TPU\[LZ \U[PS Q\Z[ ZL[
:LY]L^HYTZJH[[LYLK^P[O[OLJYLZZ
PER SERVING 608 KCALS | FAT 48.3G | SATURATES 27.4G
CARBS 24.3G | SUGARS 1.9G | FIBRE 1G
PROTEIN 18.6G | SALT 0.8G
COOK’S NOTES
Find a recipe for shortcrust pastry at
Omagazine.com.
COOK
B AND
RA
C
R KS W
L T A RT S
EL
BE
1\UL Omagazine.com
37
Eastern
promise
:HIYPUH .OH`V\Y»Z KLI\[ 7LYZPHUH ^HZ H ILZ[ZLSSLY MVY H YLHZVU
/LYL ZOL ZOHYLZ ZVTL IYPSSPHU[ 4PKKSL ,HZ[LYUZ[`SL YLJPWLZ
HSS YLHK` PU \UKLY HU OV\Y MYVT OLY UL^ IVVR :PYVJJV
9LJPWLZ :()905( ./(@6<9 7OV[VNYHWOZ /((9(3( /(403;65
Parsee duck-egg scramble
25 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
+\JR LNNZ OH]L H YPJO HUK JYLHT` JOHYHJ[LY [OH[
HSSV^Z [OLT [V OVSK [OLPY V^U HNHPUZ[ ZWPJLZ ¶ L]LU
TVYL ZV [OHU OLUZ» LNNZ ;OPZ PZ H NYLH[ IYLHRMHZ[
VY IY\UJO KPZO I\[ PU T` J\S[\YL P[»Z ]LY` JVTTVU
[V LH[ LNNZ MVY H SPNO[ I\[ [V[HSS` MHI\SV\Z L]LUPUN TLHS
cumin seeds [ZW
coriander seeds [ZW
vegetable oil MVY MY`PUN
fresh curry leaves
red chilli SVUN MPULS` JOVWWLK ZLLKLK PM `V\ SPRL
garlic JSV]L JY\ZOLK
ground turmeric ñ [ZW
spring onions H I\UJO [OPUS` ZSPJLK
salted butter N
duck eggs ILH[LU
lime aLZ[LK
coriander ñ H ZTHSS I\UJO MPULS` JOVWWLK
flatbreads ^HYTLK [V ZLY]L
40 Omagazine.com 1\UL
/LH[ H SHYNL MY`PUN WHU V]LY H TLKP\TOPNO OLH[
HUK [VHZ[ [OL J\TPU HUK JVYPHUKLY ZLLKZ MVY H ML^
TPU\[LZ Z[PYYPUN [V WYL]LU[ I\YUPUN 9LTV]L [OL
[VHZ[LK ZLLKZ MYVT [OL WHU HUK NYPUK [OLT [V H
WV^KLY \ZPUN H WLZ[SL HUK TVY[HY VY H ZWPJL NYPUKLY
+YPaaSL ZVTL VPS PU[V [OL ZHTL WHU HKK [OL J\YY`
SLH]LZ HUK VUJL [OL` Z[HY[ [V THRL WVWWPUN UVPZLZ
HKK [OL JOPSSP HUK NHYSPJ MVSSV^LK I` [OL J\TPU HUK
JVYPHUKLY WV^KLY HUK [OL [\YTLYPJ :[PY ^LSS (KK [OL
ZWYPUN VUPVUZ HUK I\[[LY Z^PM[S` MVSSV^LK I` [OL
ILH[LU K\JR LNNZ <ZPUN H ^VVKLU ZWVVU ZJYHTISL
[OL K\JR LNNZ I` Z[PYYPUN [OLT X\PJRS` [V WYL]LU[
Z[PJRPUN (KK H NLULYV\Z WPUJO VM ZHS[ HUK WLWWLY
[OL SPTL aLZ[ HUK JVYPHUKLY [OLU YLTV]L MYVT [OL
OLH[ PTTLKPH[LS` :[PY HUK ZLY]L PKLHSS` ^P[O ^HYT
MSH[IYLHKZ VY ZPTWSL [VY[PSSH ^YHWZ 0 SV]L JOPSSP ZH\JL
VY THUNV JO\[UL` ZLY]LK ^P[O [OPZ KPZO
COOK
1\UL Omagazine.com
41
Spiced beetroot yogurt
20 MINUTES | SERVES 6 AS A SNACK
EASY | VEGETARIAN
;OL Z^LL[ULZZ VM [OL ILL[YVV[ ^VYRZ
ILH\[PM\SS` ^P[O [OL JYLHT` ZOHYWULZZ
VM [OL `VN\Y[ 0M `V\Y KPW SVVRZ H IP[ WHSL
ISLUK PU H JV\WSL VM L_[YHILL[YVV[[V
IYPNO[LU[OLJVSV\Y
cooked beetroot N UV[ PU]PULNHY
ground coriander [IZW
mint H I\UJO SLH]LZ WPJRLK
HUK MPULS` JOVWWLK
Greek yogurt N
nigella seeds [ZW
olive oilMVYKYPaaSPUN
+YHPU [OL L_JLZZ Q\PJL MYVT [OL ILL[YVV[
YV\NOS` JOVW [OLU ISP[a PU H IV^S \ZPUN
H Z[PJR ISLUKLY VY PU H ZTHSS ISLUKLY \U[PS
[OL`»YL IYVRLU KV^U [V H JVHYZL[L_[\YLK
W\YtL (KK [OL NYV\UK JVYPHUKLY ZVTL
ZLHZVUPUN HUK [OL JOVWWLK TPU[ YLZLY]PUN
H NLULYV\Z WPUJO VM TPU[ MVY NHYUPZO HUK
TP_ ^LSS :[PY PU [OL .YLLR `VN\Y[
;HZ[L HUK HKK TVYL ZLHZVUPUN PM
ULJLZZHY` :LY]L ^P[O H ZWYPURSPUN VM UPNLSSH
ZLLKZ [OL YLZLY]LK JOVWWLKTPU[HUK
HKYPaaSLVMVSP]LVPS
42 Omagazine.com1\UL
COOK
Lamb, apricot and
fennel seed lollipops
W
1\UL Omagazine.com
43
Lamb, apricot and
fennel seed lollipops
50 MINUTES | MAKES 18-20 | EASY
*HSS [OLT SVSSPWVWZ RVM[H VY TLH[IHSSZ ^OPJO
PZ [LJOUPJHSS` ^OH[ [OL` HYL [OL` THRL
X\P[L H Z[H[LTLU[ 0 SPRL [V \ZL ZWPJLZ IVSKS`
ZV [OPZ TPNO[ ZLLT H SV[ VM MLUULS ZLLKZ
I\[ P[»Z IHSHUJLK V\[ PU [OL YLJPWL 0M `V\
WYLMLYHTPSKLYMSH]V\Y\ZLML^LYZLLKZ
26-;(
lamb mince N
ready-to-eat dried apricots N
MPULS` JOVWWLK
fennel seeds N [VHZ[LK
HUK MPULS` NYV\UK
eggs
onion MPULS` JOVWWLK
ground turmeric OLHWLK [ZW
dill ZTHSS I\UJO MPULS`JOVWWLK
WS\Z L_[YH [V NHYUPZO
sea salt flakes [ZW
vegetable oil MVYMY`PUN
;6 :,9=,
Greek yogurt N
olive oil VY lemon juice VW[PVUHS
sweet tamarind paste
nigella seedsHZTHSSOHUKM\S
/LH[ H SHYNL MY`PUN WHU V]LY H TLKP\T
OLH[ 0M [OL MY`PUN WHU PZU»[ SHYNL LUV\NO
[V JVVR RVM[H H[ VUJL ^P[OV\[
V]LYJYV^KPUN [OL WHU OLH[ [OL V]LU [V
*MHU *NHZMVYRLLWPUNJVVRLK
IH[JOLZ ^HYT
7\[ HSS [OL RVM[H PUNYLKPLU[Z L_JLW[ [OL
VPS PU[V H SHYNL TP_PUN IV^S HUK ^VYR [OL
TP_[\YL [OVYV\NOS` \ZPUN `V\Y OHUKZ 9LHSS`
W\TTLS [OL TLH[ TP_[\YL HUK LUZ\YL[OL
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+YPaaSL Q\Z[ LUV\NO VPS PU[V [OL OV[ MY`PUN
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44 Omagazine.com1\UL
4LHU^OPSL ILNPU YVSSPUN [OL RVM[H I` [HRPUN
H ZTHSS HTV\U[ VM [OL TLH[ TP_[\YL HIV\[
[OL ZPaL VM H WPUN WVUN IHSS HUK YVSS P[ PU[V
H ZTVV[O IHSS [OLU W\[ P[ PU [OL MY`PUN WHU
HUK MY` MVY HIV\[ TPU\[LZ VU LHJO
ZPKL VY \U[PS UPJLS` IYV^ULK HUK JVVRLK
[OYV\NO 2LLW HKKPUN TVYL HUK TVYL IHSSZ
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PM ULJLZZHY` 2LLW [OL JVVRLK RVM[H ^HYT
PU [OL V]LU VU H IHRPUN [YH`^OPSL`V\MY`
Z\IZLX\LU[ IH[JOLZ
:LHZVU [OL `VN\Y[ ^P[O ZHS[ HUK WLWWLY
0M [OL `VN\Y[ PZ [VV [OPJR MVY KYPaaSPUN [OPU P[
KV^U \ZPUN H SP[[SL VSP]L VPSHUK[HISLZWVVU
^H[LY VY SLTVU Q\PJL
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0UZLY[ H ^VVKLUZRL^LYPU[VLHJOTLH[IHSS
HUKZLY]L
COOK’S NOTES
Have a bowl of water next to you when rolling
the kofta and keep your hands moist. This will
stop the mix from sticking to your hands and
keep the koftas nicely formed and smooth.
Marinated scallops with lime,
chilli and shallot dressing
20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
0M `V\ I\` YLHSS` MYLZO ZJHSSVWZ [OLYL
PZ UV ULLK [V JVVR [OLT ;OLPY KLSPJH[L
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+9,::05.
sumac [ZW
lime aLZ[LKHUKQ\PJLK
olive oil
dill ZWYPNZ MYVUKZHUKZ[LTZ
MPULS` JOVWWLK
shallots YV\UK MPULS` KPJLK
red chilli SVUN ZLLKLKHUKMPULS`KPJLK
caster sugar[ZW
<ZPUN H ZOHYW RUPML J\[ LHJO ZJHSSVW [OPUS`
PU[V ZSPJLZ HUK W\[ [OLT PU H IV^S ;V
THRL [OL KYLZZPUN TP_ [OL Z\THJ ^P[O [OL
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V]LYHU`YLTHPUPUNKYLZZPUNHUKZLY]L
COOK
marinated scallops
with lime chilli and
shallot dressing W
1\UL Omagazine.com
45
Chargrilled squid with
grapefruit, herbs and
pomegranate seeds W
46 Omagazine.com1\UL
COOK
Orange, thyme and
spice chicken wings
W
1\UL Omagazine.com
47
COOK
Chargrilled squid with
grapefruit, herbs and
pomegranate seeds
Orange, thyme and
spice chicken wings
30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
0 YLHSS` SPRL [OPZ MY\P[` THYPUHKL ^OPJO OHZ
H SP[[SL ZWPJL HUK [O`TL [V OLSW YV\UK VMM [OL
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\ZL YLN\SHY JOPSSP MSHRLZ
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chives H I\UJO ZUPWWLK PU[V JT Z[YPWZ
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pomegranate seeds N
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48 Omagazine.com1\UL
1 HOUR + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASY
chicken wingsRN
4(905(+,
fresh orange juice TS
marmalade [IZW
dried thyme OLHWLK [ZW
ground cinnamon OLHWLK [ZW
ground turmeric OLHWLK[ZW
cayenne pepper [ZW
garlic MH[ JSV]LZJY\ZOLK
olive oil[IZW
7\[ [OL JOPJRLU ^PUNZ PU H SHYNL IV^S 4P_
[OL THYPUHKL PUNYLKPLU[Z PU H ZTHSS IV^S
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JOPJRLU ^PUNZ <ZPUN `V\Y OHUKZ THZZHNL
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¶ PM P[ ILJVTLZ [VV [OPJR SL[ P[ KV^U ^P[O
HSP[[SL^H[LYHUKZLY]LP[VU[OLZPKL
Make your own
Bakewell
tart
Create a classic British
bake with step-by-step
help from O’s
test kitchen
Recipe ANNA GLOVER
Photographs TONY BRISCOE
1½ HOURS + CHILLING | SERVES 8 | A LITTLE EFFORT
7YPJRPUN [OL WHZ[Y` IHZL ^P[O H MVYR HSVUN ^P[O
\ZPUN IHRPUN ILHUZ LUZ\YLZ [OL WHZ[Y` KVLZU»[
KVTL ^OLU ISPUKIHRPUN )Y\ZOPUN ^P[O LNN
^OP[L ZLHSZ [OL QHT PU ZV `V\ ^VU»[ OH]L SLHRZ
;Y` [OPZ YLJPWL ^P[O V[OLY ZLHZVUHS MY\P[Z Z\JO
HZZ[YH^ILYYPLZVYJOLYYPLZPM`V\SPRL
flaked almonds 2-4 tbsp
icing sugar to serve
PASTRY
plain flour 275g, plus more for dusting
unsalted butter 150g, cold and cubed
golden caster sugar 75g
egg 1, lightly beaten plus 1 egg white
lemon ½, zested
FRANGIPANE
unsalted butter 125g, softened
golden caster sugar 125g
almond extract 5 drops
eggs 2, lightly beaten
ground almonds 150g
plain flour 50g
milk 1 tbsp
FRESH RASPBERRY JAM
raspberries 150g
caster sugar 50g
lemon juice 1 tbsp
1. To make the pastry, sift the flour into a bowl,
add a pinch of salt and the cubed butter, and
rub together with your fingertips until it
resembles crumbs.
50 Omagazine.com June 2016
Psst....
Share your photo on
Twitter, our Facebook
page or Instagram
#Omagrecipes
– we’d love to see
your results
2. Add the sugar, whole egg and
lemon zest. Mix everything together with
a knife, and then get your hands involved.
Knead everything together quickly until it
forms a ball. (Alternatively you can pulse in
a food processor.) Wrap in clingflim and leave
to chill for 1 hour.
3. To make the jam, put the raspberries, sugar
and lemon juice in a small pan. Bring to a
simmer, and keep bubbling until the
raspberries lose their shape and turn into
a sticky jam, about 8 minutes. Stir frequently
with a wooden spoon. Strain through a sieve,
discarding the seeds, then leave to cool.
4. Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.
Roll the chilled pastry out on a lightly floured
surface to about 3mm thick. Use to line a
22cm fluted tart tin about 3cm deep. Roll the
rolling pin over the top of the tart to trim the
pastry crust. Prick the base all over with a fork.
5. Line the pastry with a scrunched up piece
of baking paper, then fill with baking beans or
uncooked rice. Blind bake for 15 minutes.
Remove the beans and paper and bake for
another 5 minutes until the pastry looks dry
and lightly golden. Brush with the egg white
while still hot, and allow to cool. To make the
frangipane, beat the butter, sugar and almond
extract together. Add one egg, and beat again.
Add a spoonful of ground almonds to help
the egg bind, then add the remaining egg
with another tbsp of almonds and beat until
incorporated. Mix in the remaining ground
almonds and flour. If the mix is a little stiff,
add the milk and whisk again.
6. Spread the jam in an even layer over the
pastry case with the back of a spoon or
spatula. If the jam has stiffened a little while
cooled, mix vigorously to loosen.
7. Spoon the frangipane over the jam,
spreading it out evenly. Bake for 20 minutes.
8. Scatter with the flaked almonds and bake
for another 5-10 minutes until the frangipane
is risen and golden. A skewer poked into
the frangipane should come out clean.
9. Cool, dust with a little icing sugar and serve
with cream or custard.
PER SERVING 707 KCALS | FAT 43.2G | SATURATES 19.6G
CARBS 65.2G | SUGARS 33.6G | FIBRE 2.3G
PROTEIN 13.1G | SALT 0.1G
STYLING: JENNY IGGLEDEN. FOOD STYLING: ANNA GLOVER
Bakewell tart
1
COOK
2
3
4
6
5
9
7 8
June 2016 Omagazine.com
51
Cook everyday
3L[ 1HUPUL 9H[JSPMML O»Z MVVK
LKP[VY YLZJ\L `V\ MYVT `V\Y YLJPWL
Y\[ ^P[O [OLZL X\PJRHUKLHZ`
TPK^LLR PKLHZ
9LJPWLZ 1(505, 9(;*30--,
7OV[VNYHWOZ;65@)90:*6,
52 Omagazine.com1\UL
COOK
Posh fish finger sandwiches
20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
haddock VY cod goujons N WHJR
brioche-style buns[VHZ[LK
rocket N
;(9;(9, :(<*,
shallot KPJLK
capers [IZW JOVWWLK
cornichons MPULS` KPJLK
Dijon mustard ë [ZW
mayonnaise [IZW
lemon ñ
;V THRL [OL [HY[HYL ZH\JL TP_ L]LY`[OPUN
^P[O H ZX\LLaL VM SLTVU HUK ZLHZVU ^LSS
.YPSS VY IHRL [OL NV\QVUZ MVSSV^PUN [OL WHJR
PUZ[Y\J[PVUZ :WYLHK [OL IV[[VT VM [OL I\UZ
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[HY[HYLZH\JLHUK[OLI\U[VWZ
:;@305.!1,55@0..3,+,5-66+:;@305.!2(;@.9,,5>66+
PER SERVING 698 KCALS | FAT 55G | SATURATES 7G
CARBS 26.9G | SUGARS 9.5G | FIBRE 1.7G
PROTEIN 23G | SALT 1.4G
Brick chicken with
herb butter
40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
;OPZ PZ \Z\HSS` KVUL ^P[O H ZWH[JOJVJRLK
JOPJRLU I\[ P[ ^VYRZ ^LSS ^P[O JOPJRLU SLNZ
[VV >LPNO[PUN [OL JOPJRLU KV^U ^OPSL
JVVRPUN JYPZWZ \W[OLZRPUHUKJVVRZ
P[T\JOMHZ[LY
whole chicken legs
olive oil
garlicJSV]LZ\UWLLSLK
thyme ZWYPNZ
butter N
tarragon H ZTHSS OHUKM\S JOVWWLK
flat-leaf parsleyHZTHSSOHUKM\SJOVWWLK
:HS[ [OL JOPJRLU SLNZ /LH[ H OLH]`
V]LUWYVVM MY`PUN WHU ^P[O H SP[[SL VPS [OLU W\[
[OL SLNZ PU ZRPUZPKL KV^U (KK [OL NHYSPJ
HUK [O`TL ZWYPNZ :SPW V]LY H ZOLL[ VM MVPS
[OLU W\[ HUV[OLY OLH]` WHU VU [VW ZV P[
JV]LYZ HUK ^LPNOZ KV^U [OL JOPJRLU (KK
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MVPS PZ WLYMLJ[ V[OLY^PZL \ZL [PU JHUZ
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TPU\[LZ
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
;HRL VMM [OL IYPJR [VW WHU HUK MVPS ;\YU
[OL JOPJRLU [OLU W\[ PU [OL V]LU MVY HUV[OLY
TPU\[LZ 4HZO [OL I\[[LY HUK OLYIZ HUK
HKK[V[OLWHUMVY[OLSHZ[ TPU\[LZ
PER SERVING 658 KCALS | FAT 54.3G | SATURATES 22G
CARBS 1.6G | SUGARS 0.3G | FIBRE 0.6G
PROTEIN 40.6G | SALT 0.G
1\UL Omagazine.com
53
Salami, garlic greens
and taleggio pizza
40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
ciabatta bread mix N
olive oil
onion ZTHSS MPULS` ZSPJLK
garlic JSV]LZ JY\ZOLK
kale N [OPJR Z[HSRZ KPZJHYKLK
plain flour MVY K\Z[PUN
mascarpone [IZW
taleggio N ZSPJLK
salami WHJRHIV\[ N
54 Omagazine.com1\UL
4HRL \W [OL JPHIH[[H IYLHK TP_ MVSSV^PUN
WHJR PUZ[Y\J[PVUZ HKKPUN [IZW VSP]L VPS
HUK ñ [ZW ZHS[ *V]LY HUKSLH]LPUH^HYT
WSHJL MVY TPU\[LZ
4LHU^OPSL MY` [OL VUPVU HUK NHYSPJ NLU[S`
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PU[V [OL VUPVU ^P[O H ZWSHZO VM ^H[LY HUK
JVVR \U[PS [OL RHSL PZ^PS[LKHUK[OL^H[LY
OHZ L]HWVYH[LK
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
9VSS [OL KV\NO V\[ VU H MSV\YLK Z\YMHJL 3PM[
VU[V H IHRPUN ZOLL[ K\Z[LK ^P[O H SP[[SL MSV\Y
:WYLHK[OLTHZJHYWVULV]LY[OLKV\NO
:WVVU V]LY [OL RHSL TP_[\YL [OLU ZJH[[LY
^P[O [OL [HSLNNPV HUK MPUPZO ^P[O [OL ZHSHTP
:LHZVU HUK IHRL MVY TPU\[LZVY\U[PS
[OLWPaaHIHZLPZJYPZW
PER SERVING 732 KCALS | FAT 50.8G | SATURATES 22.7G
CARBS 38.4G | SUGARS 4G | FIBRE 2.3G
PROTEIN 29.1G | SALT 5.3G
COOK
Bacon, egg and
new potato caesar
20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
baby new potatoes N
streaky bacon ZSPJLZ
romaine lettuce ZTHSS OLHKJOVWWLK
eggs WVHJOLK [V ZLY]L
chives H OHUKM\SJOVWWLK
+9,::05.
half-fat crème fraîche [IZW
Dijon mustard [ZW
Worcestershire sauce [ZW
garlic JSV]L JY\ZOLK
parmesan N MPULS`NYH[LK
lemon Q\PJLK
*VVR [OL UL^ WV[H[VLZ PU IVPSPUN ZHS[LK
^H[LY \U[PS [LUKLY HIV\[ TPU\[LZ [OLU
KYHPU HUK JVVS .YPSS [OL IHJVU \U[PS JYPZW
4P_ [OL JYuTL MYHzJOL +PQVU T\Z[HYK
>VYJLZ[LYZOPYL ZH\JL NHYSPJ HUK WHYTLZHU
^P[O H ZX\LLaL VM SLTVU Q\PJLHUKHZWSHZO
VM ^H[LY [OLU ZLHZVU
;VZZ [OL WV[H[VLZ HUK SL[[\JL ^P[O [OL
KYLZZPUN HUK KP]PKL IL[^LLU WSH[LZ ;VW
^P[O [OL IHJVU IYVRLU PU[V WPLJLZHULNN
HUKHZWYPURSPUNVMJOP]LZ
PER SERVING 473 KCALS | FAT 32.4G | SATURATES 16.5G
CARBS 17.1G | SUGARS 5.9G | FIBRE 5.1G
PROTEIN 24.8G | SALT 3.2G
1\UL Omagazine.com
55
Apple som tum
20 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
;YHKP[PVUHSS` [OPZ MSH]V\YWHJRLK SV^JHS ;OHP
ZHSHK \ZLZ NYLLU WHWH`H I\[ P[ JHU IL OHYK
[VMPUK:^HW^P[OHWWSLSPRLOLYLPUZ[LHK
green-skinned apples
lime Q\PJLK
green beans N[YPTTLKHUKJ\[PU[V
ZOVY[ SLUN[OZ
coriander leaves H OHUKM\S
roasted peanuts [IZWYV\NOS`JOVWWLK
+9,::05.
garlic ñ JSV]L JY\ZOLK
red chilli MPULS` JOVWWLK
fish sauce ñ [IZW
light muscovado sugar [IZW
lime Q\PJLK
*VYL HUK ZSPJL [OL HWWSLZ [OPUS` [OLU
[VZZ ^P[O [OL SPTL Q\PJL :[PY[OLKYLZZPUN
PUNYLKPLU[Z [VNL[OLY
+YVW [OL ILHUZ PU[V H WHU VM IVPSPUN ^H[LY HUK
JVVR MVY TPU\[LZ KYHPU HUK YPUZL \UKLY JVSK
^H[LY +YHPU ^LSS HUK J\[ PU OHSM SLUN[O^H`Z
;PW [OL ILHUZ HUK KYLZZPUN VU[V [OL
HWWSLZ ;VZZ ^P[O [OL JVYPHUKLYHUKZLY]L
ZJH[[LYLK^P[O[OLWLHU\[Z
PER SERVING 263 KCALS | FAT 11.9G | SATURATES 2.2G
CARBS 26.4G | SUGARS 23.6G | FIBRE 5.1GG
PROTEIN 10G | SALT 2.7G
Potted shrimp on toast
with pickled cucumber
20 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY
white wine vinegar [IZW
caster sugar [IZW
cucumber OHS]LK SLUN[O^H`Z
ZLLKLK WLLSLK HUK ZSPJLK
sourdough ZSPJLZ
potted shrimp [\I
baby watercress H OHUKM\S
cayenneHWPUJO
56 Omagazine.com1\UL
7\[ [OL ]PULNHY HUK Z\NHY PU H ZTHSS
WHU :PTTLY NLU[S` MVY H ML^ TPU\[LZ \U[PS
[OL Z\NHY KPZZVS]LZ*VVS[OLU[VZZ^P[O
[OL J\J\TILY
;VHZ[ [OL IYLHK >HYT [OL ZOYPTW ZV [OL
I\[[LY TLS[Z 7PSL [OL ZOYPTW VU[V [OL [VHZ[
^P[O [OL ^H[LYJYLZZ (KK H WPUJO VM JH`LUUL
HUKZLY]L[OLJ\J\TILYVU[OLZPKL
PER SERVING 670 KCALS | FAT 19.7G | SATURATES 9.6G
CARBS 97.7G | SUGARS 44.5G | FIBRE 4.3G
PROTEIN 23.2G | SALT 2.4G
COOK
made ea
i
a
h
T
sy!
1\UL Omagazine.com
57
COOK
Cheat’s lasagne
40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
garlic JSV]LJY\ZOLK
olive oil
chopped tomatoes N [PU
basil H ZTHSS OHUKM\S JOVWWLK
beef and red wine ravioliWHJR
HIV\[ N
mascarpone [IZW
parmesan [IZWNYH[LKWS\ZL_[YH
MVY [OL [VW
mozzarella HZTHSSIHSSZSPJLK
*VVR [OL NHYSPJ PU [IZW VSP]L VPS MVY
H JV\WSL VM TPU\[LZ [OLU [PW PU [OL
[VTH[VLZ :PTTLY MVY TPU\[LZ \U[PS
[OPJRLULK:LHZVUHUKZ[PYPU[OLIHZPS
58 Omagazine.com1\UL
*VVR [OL YH]PVSP PU IVPSPUN ^H[LY \U[PS HSTVZ[
[LUKLY I\[ KYHPU ILMVYL P[»Z KVUL HZ P[ ^PSS
RLLW JVVRPUN PU [OL V]LU 4P_ [OL
THZJHYWVUL HUK WHYTLZHU
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
6PS H ZTHSS IHRPUN KPZO :WVVU H SP[[SL [VTH[V
ZH\JL PU [OL IV[[VT HKK H SH`LY VM YH]PVSP
[OLU KVSSVW V]LY OHSM [OL THZJHYWVUL TP_
(KK TVYL [VTH[V ZH\JL [OL YLZ[ VM [OL
YH]PVSP [OLU [VW ^P[O [OL YLTHPUPUN [VTH[V
ZH\JL HUK THZJHYWVUL 3H` TVaaHYLSSH VU
HUK ZWYPURSL V]LY H IP[ TVYL WHYTLZHU )HRL
MVYTPU\[LZ\U[PSNVSKLUHUKI\IISPUN
PER SERVING 751 KCALS | FAT 47.8G
SATURATES 25.2G | CARBS 49.3G | SUGARS 11.1G
FIBRE 4.7G | PROTEIN 28.5G | SALT 1.8G
COOK
4HRL H IH[JO VM V\Y TPUP
JY\TISLZ ^OPJO `V\ JHU
JVVR Z[YHPNO[ MYVT[OLMYLLaLY
9LJPWL (55( .36=,9
7OV[VNYHWO46>0,2(@
Cinnamon gooseberry crumbles
1 HOUR + FREEZING | SERVES 6 | EASY
:;@305.!630=0(>(9+3,-66+:;@305.!*/36,90+,
gooseberries N Z[HSRZYLTV]LK
mixed spice H WPUJO
soft light brown sugar N
vanilla ice cream[VZLY]L
*9<4)3,
plain flour N
rolled oats N
baking powder [ZW
ground cinnamon [ZW
ground ginger [ZW
butter N ZVM[LULK
demerara sugar N
7\[ [OL NVVZLILYYPLZ TP_LK ZWPJL HUK Z\NHY
PU H WHU HUK JVVR NLU[S` \U[PS [OL NVVZLILYYPLZ
Z[HY[ [V I\YZ[ HUK ZVM[LU HIV\[ TPU\[LZ
9LTV]L MYVT [OL OLH[
-VY [OL JY\TISL [PW [OL MSV\Y HUK VH[Z PU[V
H SHYNL TP_PUN IV^S (KK [OL IHRPUN WV^KLY
JPUUHTVU NPUNLY HUK I\[[LY HUK SPNO[S` Y\I
[OL I\[[LY PU[V [OL TP_ ^P[O `V\Y
MPUNLY[PWZ \U[PS P[ SVVRZ SPRL
IYLHKJY\TIZ (KK [OL
KLTLYHYH Z\NHY HUK TP_
:WVVU [OL NVVZLILYYPLZ
PU[V V]LUWYVVM YHTLRPUZ
:WYPURSL V]LY [OL JY\TISL
>YHW PUKP]PK\HSS` PU JSPUNMSPT
HUK MYLLaL ;OL` ^PSS RLLW PU
[OL MYLLaLY MVY \W [V TVU[OZ
;V JVVR OLH[ [OL V]LU [V *
MHU *NHZ 9LTV]L [OL JSPUNMPST HUK
JVVR [OL JY\TISLZ MVY TPU\[LZ MYVT
MYVaLU VY TPU\[LZ MYVT [OH^LK \U[PS
WPWPUN OV[ \ZL H TL[HS ZRL^LY [V JOLJR HUK
[OLJY\TISLPZNVSKLU:LY]L^P[OPJLJYLHT
PER SERVING 396 KCALS | FAT 13.5G | SATURATES 7.8G
CARBS 61.3G | SUGARS 37.1G | FIBRE 5.3G
PROTEIN 4.6G | SALT 0.5G
1\UL Omagazine.com
59
Feeling
Tired?
With busy lives,more of us are looking to
support energy release and vitality,with an
iron supplement that is easy on the stomach
and tastes great too.
Feroglobin® Liquid – a delicious honey and orange
flavour liquid with gentle iron which contributes
to normal formation of red blood cells and
haemoglobin and normal energy release.
Feroglobin® Capsules - a gentle iron supplement,
in capsule form with zinc and vitamin B12,
formulated to deliver an ideal amount of iron to
the body while remaining gentle on the stomach.
With iron, folate, vit.B12
which support the reduction of
tiredness & fatigue
DELICIOUS LIQUID
CAPSULES
ADFERCONP 04-05-16E
From
supermarkets,pharmacies,health stores
and www.vitabiotics.com
*Source: Nielsen GB ScanTrack Total Coverage Unit Sales 52 w/e 26th March 2016.
3CHERRIES
WAYS WITH
COOK
;\YU L]LY`KH` PUNYLKPLU[Z
PU[V ZVTL[OPUN ZWLJPHS
^P[O [OLZL JSL]LY YLJPWLZ
9LJPWLZ :(9(/ *662
7OV[VNYHWOZ:;<(9;>,:;
Goat’s curd, pickled
cherry and pecan toasts
25 MINUTES + DRAINING | MAKES 4 | EASY
VEGETARIAN
:;@305.!16/(990:-66+:;@305.!(55(.36=,9
full-fat goat’s milk yogurt TS
red wine vinegar TS
golden caster sugar N
pink peppercorns ñ [ZW
caraway seeds[ZW
bay leaf
runny honey [IZW
cherries N WP[[LK
pumpernickel VY rye sourdough bread
[OPJR ZSPJLZ
pecans NIYVRLUPU[VWPLJLZ
;OL UPNO[ ILMVYL `V\ ^HU[ [V LH[ W\[
H ZPL]L V]LY H IV^S HUK SPUL ^P[O VUL ZOLL[
VM T\ZSPU VY H JSLHU 1JSV[O :WVVU PU [OL
`VN\Y[ HUK ZP[ P[ PU [OL MYPKNL V]LYUPNO[ VY MVY
\W [V OV\YZ ;OL L_JLZZ ^H[LY ^PSS KYHPU
V\[ HUK [OL TP_ ^PSS [OPJRLU [V THRL H J\YK
7\[ [OL ]PULNHY HUK Z\NHY PU H ZTHSS
WHU ^P[O TS VM ^H[LY )HZO [OL
WLWWLYJVYUZ H ML^ [PTLZ [V JY\ZO SPNO[S`
HUK HKK [OLZL [V [OL WHU ^P[O [OL
JHYH^H` ZLLKZ HUK IH` SLHM *VVR V]LY
H SV^ OLH[ [OLU VUJL [OL Z\NHY PZ
KPZZVS]LK IYPUN [V H NLU[SL ZPTTLY HUK
I\IISL MVY TPU\[LZ \U[PS YLK\JLK I` OHSM
:[PY PU [OL OVUL` HUK JOLYYPLZ [OLU WV\Y
PU[V H QHY ZV [OL JOLYYPLZ HYL HSS M\SS` JV]LYLK
PU [OL WPJRSPUN SPX\PK HUK SLH]L [V JVVS
;OL UL_[ KH` KPZJHYK [OL SPX\PK [OH[ OHZ
KYHPULK MYVT [OL `VN\Y[HUKZLHZVU[OL
[OPJRLULK `VN\Y[
+YHPU [OL JOLYYPLZ PM `V\ SPRL `V\ JHU
YLK\JL ZVTL VM [OL WPJRSPUNSPX\VYHUK
\ZL [OPZ MVY KYPaaSPUN
;VHZ[ [OL IYLHK JVVS MVY H TPU\[L [OLU
ZWYLHK [OPJRS` ^P[O [OL NVH[»Z J\YK :WYPURSL
V]LY [OL WPJRSLK JOLYYPLZHUKWLJHUZHUK
LH[PTTLKPH[LS`
PER SERVING 348 KCALS | FAT 14.3G | SATURATES 3.7G
CARBS 42.2G | SUGARS 21.1G | FIBRE 4.8G
PROTEIN 10.2G | SALT 0.8G
1\UL Omagazine.com
61
Upside-down cherry-rose
cake with clotted cream
milk [IZW
clotted cream VY crème fraîche[VZLY]L
1 HOUR 15 MINUTES + COOLING | SERVES 8-10 | EASY
butter N ZVM[LULK
cherry jam N
cherries N WP[[LK
golden caster sugar N
medium eggs
plain flour N
baking powder [ZW
ground almonds N
rose water [ZW
lemonaLZ[LKWS\Z[IZWQ\PJL
62 Omagazine.com1\UL
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ
:WYLHK N VM [OL ZVM[LULK I\[[LY V]LY [OL
IHZL VM H JT ZWYPUNMVYT JHRL [PU [OLU
ZWYLHK [OL QHT VU [VW (YYHUNL [OL JOLYYPLZ
PU H ZPUNSL SH`LY ZV [OL`»YL [PNO[S` WHJRLK
-VY [OL IH[[LY W\[ [OL YLTHPUPUN N VM
I\[[LY PU H IPN TP_PUN IV^S ^P[O [OL Z\NHY
HUK ILH[ ^P[O HU LSLJ[YPJ ^OPZR \U[PS WHSL
HUK MS\MM` )LH[ PU [OL LNNZ VUL H[ H [PTL
[OLU [PW PU [OL MSV\Y IHRPUN WV^KLY HSTVUKZ
YVZL^H[LYSLTVUaLZ[HUKQ\PJLHUKTPSR
:[PY \U[PS ZTVV[O [OLU NLU[S` ZWVVU V]LY [OL
JOLYYPLZ )HRL MVY OV\Y VY \U[PS H ZRL^LY
WVRLK PU[V [OL JLU[YL JVTLZ V\[ JSLHU
3L[ [OL JHRL JVVS MVY TPU\[LZ PU [OL [PU
[OLU ZP[ H ZLY]PUN WSH[L VU [VW HUK PU]LY[ [V
[\YU V\[ [OL JHRL ,H[ ^HYT VY JVSK J\[ PU[V
^LKNLZ HUK ZLY]LK ^P[OJSV[[LKJYLHT
VYJYuTLMYHzJOL
PER SERVING (10) 490 KCALS | FAT 28.3G
SATURATES 14.1G | CARBS 50.3G | SUGARS 34.6G
FIBRE 1.5G | PROTEIN 7.8G | SALT 0.7G
COOK
Overnight bircher
muesli with cherries,
peach and coconut
15 MINUTES + CHILLING | SERVES 3 | EASY | VEGAN
rolled oats N
desiccated coconut NWS\ZHZWYPURSL
L_[YH [V ZLY]L
coconut water TS
apple, peach HUK pear juice TS
VY H ZPTPSHY Q\PJL ^P[O ZVTL WLHJO PU P[
dairy-free coconut yogurt N
agave syrup [IZW WS\ZHUL_[YHKYPaaSL
[V ZLY]L PM `V\ SPRL
chia seeds [IZW
pumpkin seeds [IZW
cherries N OHS]LK HUK WP[[LK
ripe peach VY nectarine Z[VULKHUK
JO\URPS`KPJLK
4P_ [VNL[OLY [OL VH[Z JVJVU\[ JVJVU\[
^H[LY Q\PJL `VN\Y[ HNH]L HUK JOPH ZLLKZ
3LH]L V]LYUPNO[ VY MVY H[ SLHZ[ OV\Y
;V LH[ Z[PY [OYV\NO TVZ[ VM [OL W\TWRPU
ZLLKZ HUK OHSM [OL JOLYYPLZ WS\Z H ZWSHZO
TVYL Q\PJL PM `V\ SPRL P[ JYLHTPLY +P]PKL
IL[^LLU [OYLL IV^SZ [OLU ZJH[[LY [OL
YLTHPUPUN JOLYYPLZ WLHJO HUK W\TWRPU
ZLLKZ VU [VW ^P[O H WPUJO TVYL JVJVU\[
HUKKYPaaSLVMHNH]LPM`V\SPRL
PER SERVING 456 KCALS | FAT 23.1G
SATURATES 14.3G | CARBS 44.2G
SUGARS 16.5G | FIBRE 9.2G
PROTEIN 13.3G | SALT 0.1G
1\UL Omagazine.com
63
TS
ET
ABLE PL A
N
L
VE
G
E 5 LIT
R
E
G
AR
Already
producing
fruit!
Peppers, Aubergines and Tomatoes
All available as large 5 litre plants
Unsurprisingly
Suttons...
As seed purveyors since 1806 it’s no surprise we have all the gardener’s
favourite seeds, together with a 5 litre potted plant range that will allow you
to create an ’instant’ veg garden with plants already starting to produce fruit ideal for small space urban growing!
BY APPOINTMENT TO
HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN
SEEDSMEN
SUTTONS CONSUMER
PRODUCTS LIMITED, DEVON
Also available at B&Q and Waitrose stores
www.suttons.co.uk 0844 326 2200
COOK
:;@305.!1,55@0..3,+,5-66+:;@305.!(55(.36=,9
9LJPWLZ (55( .36=,9
7OV[VNYHWOZ;65@)90:*6,
No-churn banana
ice cream W
HEALTHY choices
O»Z JVVRLY`
^YP[LY (UUH
.SV]LY ZOHYLZ
OLY HWWYVHJO
[V OLHS[O` SP]PUN
^P[O SV^JHSVYPL
SV^MH[ HUK
NS\[LUMYLL
YLJPWLZ PUJS\KPUN
[HUKVVYP SHTI
Z[LHRZ HUK
H JOPJRLU JHZOL^
ZHSHK MVY VUL
1\UL Omagazine.com
65
Healthy
trend
No-churn banana ice cream
15 MINUTES + FREEZING | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGAN
+HPY`MYLL UVJO\YU UVLMMVY[ PJL JYLHT
7S\ZP[»ZOLHS[O`>OH[»ZUV[[VSV]L&
ripe bananas
almond VY coconut milk HZWSHZOVW[PVUHS
;6 :,9=, VW[PVUHS
maple syrup ground cinnamon toasted
pecans banana slices
7LLS HUK ZSPJL [OL IHUHUHZ :WYLHK VU[V
H IHRPUN WHWLY SPULK [YH` HUK MYLLaL MVY
OV\YZ VY \U[PS ZVSPK ;PW PU[V H MVVK
WYVJLZZVY VY SPX\PKPZLY HUK W\SZL MVY H ML^
ZLJVUKZ 0M P[ KVLZU»[ TP_ [V H ZTVV[O PJL
JYLHT HKK HSTVUK TPSR [IZW H[ H [PTL [V
MVYT PJL JYLHT @V\ TPNO[ UV[ ULLK [V \ZL
HU` TPSR KLWLUKPUN VU OV^ ZVM[ [OL
IHUHUHZ HYL :JVVW PU[V IV^SZHUK[VW
^P[O^OH[L]LY`V\SPRL
PER SERVING 171 KCALS | FAT 0.2G | SATURATES 0.1G
CARBS 38.7G | SUGARS 34.5G | FIBRE 2.8G
PROTEIN 2.2G | SALT 0G
COOK’S NOTES
Once you’re confident with the process, try
experimenting with different flavours – add
a handful of frozen berries, 2 tbsp peanut butter
or 2 tbsp raw cacao powder to the processor
before blending to get the flavours shown
in our picture above.
66 Omagazine.com 1\UL
Trout and broad bean filo tart
40 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
spray olive oil
5:2 diet
filo pastry ZOLL[Z
friendly
eggs ILH[LU
fat-free quark N
hot smoked trout N MSHRLK
broad beans N^LPNOLKHM[LY
KV\ISLWVKKPUN
dill VY chives JOVWWLK [VTHRL[IZW
pea shoots [V ZLY]L
mint leaves[VZLY]L
/LH[ [OL V]LU [V *MHU *NHZ ñ
:WYH` H JT [HY[ [PU ^P[O VPS [OLU SH`LY PU
[OL MPSV ZOLL[Z ^P[O H ZWYH` VM VPS PU IL[^LLU
:JY\UJO \W [OL WHZ[Y` V]LYOHUNPUN [OL ZPKLZ
[V THRL H IVYKLY 4P_ [OL LNNZ HUK X\HYR
^P[O WSLU[` VM ZLHZVUPUN -VSK PU [OL [YV\[
IYVHK ILHUZ HUK KPSS 7V\Y PU[V [OL WHZ[Y`
JHZL HUK IHRL MVY TPU\[LZ \U[PS [OL
[HY[ PZ ZL[ I\[ Z[PSS OHZ H SP[[SL ^VIISL 3LH]L
[V JVVS [OLU ZJH[[LY V]LY H ML^WLHZOVV[Z
HUKTPU[SLH]LZ[VZLY]L
PER SERVING 184 KCALS | FAT 4.8G | SATURATES 1.1G
CARBS 19G | SUGARS 1.6G | FIBRE 3G
PROTEIN 14.5G | SALT 0.8G
COOK
Moroccan veg and
chickpea tagine
40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY | VEGAN
red onion JOVWWLK
garlic JSV]LZ JOVWWLK
Low
fat
spray olive oil
ground cumin ñ [ZW
ground coriander ñ [ZW
ground cinnamon ñ [ZW
red pepper ZLLKLK HUKJOVWWLK
courgetteJOVWWLK
aubergine JOVWWLK
vine tomatoes JOVWWLK
chickpeas N [PU YPUZLK HUKKYHPULK
vegetable stock TS
harissa [IZW
prunes WP[[LK HUK ZSPJLK
flat-leaf parsley JOVWWLK [V ZLY]L
steamed couscous [VZLY]LVW[PVUHS
-Y` [OL VUPVU HUK NHYSPJ PU H ZWYH` VM VSP]L VPS
MVY TPU\[LZ (KK [OL ZWPJLZ HUK MY` MVY H
TPU\[L\U[PSMYHNYHU[(KK[OL]LNHUKMY`MVY
TPU\[LZ \U[PS [OL`»YL JVH[LK PU [OL
ZWPJLZ HUK Z[HY[ [V [HRL VU ZVTL JVSV\Y
(KK [OL JOPJRWLHZ Z[VJR OHYPZZH HUK
WY\ULZ :LHZVU HUK ZPTTLY MVY
TPU\[LZ \U[PS [OL ]LNL[HISLZ HYL [LUKLY
:JH[[LY V]LY [OL WHYZSL` HUKZLY]L^P[O
JV\ZJV\ZPM`V\SPRL
PER SERVING 187 KCALS | FAT 3.6G | SATURATES 0.5G
CARBS 24.6G | SUGARS 14.1G | FIBRE 11.7G
PROTEIN 8.2G | SALT 0.3G
1\UL Omagazine.com
67
Chicken and cashew salad
15 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY
Za’atar aubergine steaks
with sesame dressing
and pomegranate
30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
olive oil [IZW
Gluten
za’atar [ZW
free
aubergine SHYNL J\[ PU[V
[OPJR ZSPJLZ SLUN[O^H`Z
tahini [ZW
fat-free yogurt [ZW
lemon ñ Q\PJLK
toasted sesame seeds [ZW
coriander H I\UJO SLH]LZ [VYU VMM
salad leaves H OHUKM\S[VZLY]L
lighter feta N
pomegranate molasses[IZW
/LH[ H NYPKKSL WHU VY ))8 [V OV[ 4P_ [OL
VSP]LVPSaH»H[HYHUKZVTLZLHZVUPUN)Y\ZO
68 Omagazine.com 1\UL
V]LY [OL H\ILYNPUL Z[LHRZ VU IV[O ZPKLZ
*OHY [OL H\ILYNPUL ZSPJLZ MVY TPU\[LZ VU
LHJO ZPKL \U[PS ZVM[ HSS [OL ^H` [OYV\NO [OL`
ZOV\SKU»[ IL ZWVUN` PM `V\ J\[ VUL ^P[O H
RUPML 2LLW [OL JVVRLK H\ILYNPUL JV]LYLK
^P[O MVPS [V Z[LHT HUK RLLW ^HYT^OPSL`V\
JVVR [OL YLTHPUPUN ZSPJLZ
>OPZR [OL [HOPUP `VN\Y[ SLTVU Q\PJL
HUK OHSM [OL ZLLKZ ^P[O H SP[[SL ^H[LY \U[PS
`V\ JHU KYPaaSL P[ ;VZZ[OLJVYPHUKLY^P[O
[OL ZHSHK SLH]LZ
3H` [OL aH»H[HY H\ILYNPUL Z[LHRZ VU[V
WSH[LZ JY\TISL V]LY [OL ML[H KYPaaSL V]LY [OL
ZLZHTL KYLZZPUN HUK WVTLNYHUH[L TVSHZZLZ
HUK ZJH[[LY V]LY [OL YLTHPUPUN ZLZHTL ZLLKZ
:LY]L^P[O[OLJVYPHUKLYZHSHKVU[OLZPKL
PER SERVING 240 KCALS | FAT 13.5G | SATURATES 3.8G
CARBS 14.9G | SUGARS 13G | FIBRE 11.2G
PROTEIN 9.1G | SALT 0.7G
cooked skinless chicken
breast ZTHSS ZOYLKKLK
carrot WLLSLK HUK ZOYLKKLK
green beans H ZTHSS OHUKM\S
[YPTTLK HUK ZSPJLK
white VY red cabbageëZTHSS
MPULS` ZOYLKKLK
shallot MPULS` ZSPJLK
watercress H OHUKM\S
cashew nuts [IZW [VHZ[LK
sesame seeds [ZW [VHZ[LK
*(:/,> +9,::05.
cashew nut butter [ZW
lime juice [ZW
soy sauce [ZW
chives JOVWWLK [V THRL [IZW
rice wine vinegar [ZW
High
protein
4P_ [OL KYLZZPUN PUNYLKPLU[Z [VNL[OLY ^P[O
ZVTL ZLHZVUPUN HUK SVVZLU ^P[O [ZW
^H[LY ;VZZ [OL JOPJRLU JHYYV[ NYLLU ILHUZ
JHIIHNL ZOHSSV[ HUK [OL KYLZZPUN PU H IV^S
1\Z[ ILMVYL ZLY]PUN HKK [OL ^H[LYJYLZZ
YV\NOS` JOVW [OL JHZOL^Z HUK HKK [V [OL
IV^S:WYPURSL^P[OZLZHTLZLLKZ[VZLY]L
PER SERVING 491 KCALS | FAT 23.9G | SATURATES 5G
CARBS 21.8G | SUGARS 14G | FIBRE 10.5G
PROTEIN 41.8G | SALT 1G
COOK
Tandoori lamb steaks
with chilli-spiked slaw
30 MINUTES + MARINATING | SERVES 4 | EASY
Ticks all
the boxes
√
√
√
√
√
Low calorie
Low fat
Low sugar
Low salt
High protein
garlic JSV]L JY\ZOLK
ginger [O\TIZPaLK WPLJL
WLLSLK HUK NYH[LK
tandoori masala spice mix[IZW
ground turmeric ñ [ZW
ground cumin ñ [ZW
fat-free yogurt N WS\Z [IZW
lemon Q\PJLK HUK aLZ[LK
lamb leg steaks HIV\[NLHJO
[YPTTLK VM HSS MH[
mint H OHUKM\S VM SLH]LZJOVWWLK
*/0330 :3(>
red pepper MPULS` ZSPJLK
carrots WLLSLK HUK ZOYLKKLK
red cabbage ë MPULS` ZSPJLK
spring onions ZOYLKKLK
red chilli ZLLKLK HUKMPULS`KPJLK
groundnut oil [ZW
4HRL [OL THYPUHKL MVY [OL SHTI I` TP_PUN
[OL NHYSPJ NPUNLY ZWPJLZ N `VN\Y[ OHSM
[OL SLTVU Q\PJL HUK ZVTL ZLHZVUPUN 7V\Y
V]LY [OL SHTI Z[LHRZ HUK Y\I PU ^LSS *V]LY
HUK JOPSS MVY OV\YZ VY V]LYUPNO[ PM `V\ JHU
;V THRL [OL ZSH^ [VZZ HSS [OL PUNYLKPLU[Z
[VNL[OLY ^P[O ZVTL ZLHZVUPUN HUK H NVVK
ZX\LLaL VM [OL YLTHPUPUN SLTVU 4P_ [OL
[IZW `VN\Y[ ^P[O [OLTPU[HSP[[SLSLTVU
aLZ[ HUK ZLHZVU
/LH[ H NYPKKSL WHU VY [OL ))8 [V OV[
9LTV]L [OL Z[LHRZ MYVT [OL THYPUHKL
SL[[PUN HU` L_JLZZ KYPW VMM *OHY [OL SHTI MVY
TPU\[LZ VU LHJO ZPKL VY SVUNLY PM `V\ SPRL
:LY]L^P[O[OLJOPSSPZSH^HUKTPU[`VN\Y[
PER SERVING 241 KCALS | FAT 8.8G | SATURATES 3G
CARBS 12.6G | SUGARS 11.7G | FIBRE 4.4G
PROTEIN 25.6G | SALT 0.4G
1\UL Omagazine.com
69
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
A seriously
B
good summer
It’s sunny and warm – what more excuse do you
need for a barbecue or picnic? Take them to the next
level with new Heinz [Seriously] Good Mayonnaise
rits don’t need much encouragement when
it comes to combining their two favourite
pastimes: making the most of the fleeting
sun and enjoying great food. That’s why
summer is made for garden parties and barbecues,
picnics and long al fresco lunches.
But why not shake things up a bit this year and
upgrade your summer menu with new Heinz
[Seriously] Good Mayonnaise? Made from quality
ingredients including free-range eggs, oil and
vinegar, with absolutely no artificial thickeners,
colours or flavours, you can taste how it got its name.
Try Heinz [Seriously] Good Mayonnaise with this
tasty picnic-perfect wrap. You can also add a big
dollop of it to burgers, use it as a dip for chicken
skewers, mix it into coleslaws and much more. With
a premium condiment like this at the heart of your
recipes, you can give any summer favourite a new
lease of life with a [Seriously] Good twist.
Quick hot-smoked
salmon wrap
10 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
Heinz [Seriously] Good Mayonnaise 4 tbsp
lemon juice 1 tbsp
fresh chives 10g, finely chopped
flour tortillas 4 medium
honey roast hot smoked salmon 200g
baby leaf spinach 40g
ripe avocados 2 small, sliced
cucumber 120g, cut into fingers
s Mix the Heinz [Seriously] Good Mayonnaise
with the lemon juice and chives and season.
s Spread the lemon mayonnaise over the tortilas
and divide the salmon, baby leaf spinach,
avocado and cucumber between them.
s Roll up and eat straight away, or place each
on a sheet of baking parchment and roll the
wraps up in the parchment, being careful that the
paper is on the outside only. Twist each of the
ends like a cracker and then cut in half to serve.
It’s rich and creamy,
and bursting with
taste (I love the
design of the jar too!)
Stephanie, East Yorkshire
For more information, visit heinz.co.uk
June
EAT
7/6;6.9(7/@6-*(:(40(!16/5)3(*2>,33
(M[LYUVVU [LH PZ IPNNLY HUK IL[[LY [OHU
L]LY MPUK V\[ ^OLYL [V NL[ P[ THZ[LY
[OL WLYMLJ[ WVYR WPL KPZJV]LY[OLQV`Z
VM,UNSPZO^PULZHUKTVYL
Our verdict on Hang Fire Southern Kitchen, Barry
Make your own summer cup | Noble Rot’s ultimate summer menu
1\UL Omagazine.com
71
Afternoon delight
0U [OPZ O»Z )YP[PZO PZZ\L ^L HYL JLSLIYH[PUN [OH[ NYLH[
UH[PVUHS PUZ[P[\[PVU ¶ HM[LYUVVU [LH /LYL HYL ZVTL VM [OL
ILZ[ WSHJLZ HJYVZZ [OL <2 [V LUQV` NYLH[ JHRLZ ZJVULZ
HUK H IYL^ HUKHZP[[\YUZV\[T\JOT\JOTVYL¯
>VYKZ;65@5(@369
72 Omagazine.com1\UL
EAT
em
g
n
e
The hidd
Oh Me Oh My, Liverpool
Liverpudlians will know LEAF, the hip Bold
Street café and arts venue. Less well known
is that it also runs a weekday grand café
in a Grade-II former bank opposite the Liver
Building. A bright, airy space of high-ceilings
and enormous windows, nattily decked-out
in vintage and modern furniture, Oh Me Oh My
is a relaxing setting in which to enjoy head baker
Matthew Rhodes’ sandwiches (the mini brioche
croque monsieur is a favourite), scones and
mini-desserts, which usually include his classy
crème brûlée. Teas are presented at the table so
guests can touch and smell them first. Try Tea
Desire’s champagne cassis, a white tea flavoured
with lemongrass and redcurrants. From
£15.95pp; ohmeohmyliverpool.co.uk
7/6;6.9(7/:!4(0+(=0+:650(5)6@:
SAVOUR
THE
MOMENT
The Royal
Crescent, Bath
Not only does The
Royal Crescent
define the term
‘Georgian splendour’,
but its afternoon tea
menus – taken in
the Dower House
Son
of a
bun
Fitzbillies, Cambridge
For nearly a century, this tearoom and bakery
– identified by its gorgeous, art deco wooden
façade – has kept Cambridge in sticky pastries.
Its squidgy Chelsea buns are legendary. In recent
years, Fitzbillies has been given a spruce
makeover by food writer Tim Hayward and his
wife Alison Wright who, while retaining key
talents (head baker Gill Abbs has been here
for 40 years), have expanded its cake selection
to include friands, florentines and the lesserspotted Japonaise – a praline meringue sandwich
(a bit like an XL macaron). Either drop in for
cake and coffee or go for the full afternoon tea,
which now features Fitzbillies’ own ceylon and
earl grey blends. Bakery from £1.80, afternoon
tea £18pp; fitzbillies.com
restaurant or its handsome gardens – offer
unusual flexibility. O editor Laura’s favourite
is the Duke of York which eases back on the
sweet treats and goes big on awesome savoury
bites, including Bath chaps beignet; mushroom
croquette with mushroom ketchup and aged
parmesan; and hay-smoked salmon, horseradish
yogurt and caviar. The smoked Chinese tea
is a good earthy partner for such rich and meaty
morsels. £34pp; royalcrescent.co.uk
»
1\UL Omagazine.com
73
Gentlemen’s
RELISH
The Spiced Pear,
Holmfirth, Yorkshire
Like its ingredients, this retro-modern
tearoom has good provenance. It’s owned by
accomplished chef Tim Bilton and run by
his wife, Adele. We have Tim to thank for
The Spiced Pear’s gentleman’s afternoon tea,
a kind of Yorkshire tapas which, alongside
the usual home-baked scones and pastries,
comes with bread ‘n’ dripping, Yorkshire
pudding filled with beef and gravy, a pork
pie and scotch egg. “All the sins,” laughs
Adele. While admiring the views over the
West Yorkshire moors, you can sip a pot
of Yorkshire Tea or a pint of Acorn’s
Yorkshire Pride ale (£3.60). £16.95pp;
thespicedpearhepworth.co.uk
The Black Swan,
Helmsley,
North Yorkshire
ULTIMATE RURAL A cluster of buildings,
THE
One Square, Edinburgh
Not only does the
Sheraton Hotel’s
bar-restaurant have a vast
collection of gins – including
the eponymous One Square,
created in Edinburgh by artisan gin-maker
Pickering’s – but, in summer, its afternoon tea
menu is given a distinct juniper twist. Pastry
chef Colin Hall uses gin-infused ingredients in
his creations and designs them to pair with the
74 Omagazine.com1\UL
botanicals in that season’s gin – this summer,
it’s No.3. A No.3 cocktail (using cardamom
and seville orange syrup, pink grapefruit
‘mist’ and coriander bitters) will be served
with afternoon tea. You can also book
a tutored tasting of four premium gins on
the side (£25pp). Designated drivers have
a choice of 13 loose-leaf teas prepared
in Russian samovars. £27pp;
onesquareedinburgh.co.uk
TEAROOM
7/6;6.9(7/! +(=0+ */(34,9:
FOR
GIN LOVERS
which date back to the
Elizabethan era, this
hotel also contains a
tearoom where manager,
Alison Souter, shares her
love of, say, Ying Zhen
Silver Needle white tea
or the Cygnet blends she
helped to develop. These are accompanied by
chef Alan O’Kane’s sandwiches and patisserie.
On sunny days, take tea in the gardens. From
£19.95pp; blackswan-helmsley.co.uk
EAT
FOR ALL
Grand Hotel, York
The polished, modish
Grand will suit all ages.
Its tea menus range from
a Hendrick’s gin special
(including a teapot of gin
‘n’ tonic) to a kids’ tea
menu that includes jam
sandwiches and jelly
(£17). Talking of the
ankle-biters, the Grand
hosts monthly Charlie &
The Chocolate Factory-inspired and Mad Hatter
tea parties. From £24.50pp; thegrandyork.co.uk
Cherwell Boathouse, Oxford
THE
FAMILY
QUINTESSENTIAL
ENGLIS
H AFTERNOON
On a fine day, this restaurant on the River
Cherwell is positively idyllic. Afternoon tea
must be booked in advance. Larger parties
(eight plus) eat in the pretty tea hut in the leafy
grounds, and individual guests can take tea in
the conservatory or on the lower boathouse
terrace (3.30pm-5.30pm). Afterwards, hire
a punt (from £16/hour) and gently work off
some of those calories navigating down the
Cherwell towards to its confluence with the
Thames. £12.50pp; cherwellboathouse.co.uk
7/6;6.9(7/!:0465+,>/<9:;
BREW
WITH A
VIEW
Cloud 23,
Manchester
The 23rd-storey view out to the
Cheshire Plain is only one attraction
of this plush cocktail lounge. Guests
can take a glass of fizz with afternoon tea
or, indeed, a four seasons tasting flight of
Pommery champagnes. Alternatively, pair your
candied pineapple scones with one of Cloud 23’s
signature cocktails. The Japanese-influenced
Mission To Manchester sees Hendrick’s gin
combined with sake, genmaicha tea syrup, yuzu
and rose water. Cream tea from £12;
cloud23bar.com
»
1\UL Omagazine.com
75
C
SSI
A
L
C
THE TIMELESS
Claridge’s, London
Afternoon tea has been a ritual here for almost
150 years and this luxurious redoubt for the rich
and royal (no flip-flops, no intrusive photography),
has turned it into an art form. In the stunning
art deco lobby, guests are treated to a parade
of perfectly rectilinear finger sandwiches, warm
scones and beautiful, tweezer-precise cakes,
delivered to linen-clad tables by staff who operate
as smoothly as a Swiss timepiece. Every detail
is exquisite. Corn-fed chicken on rye comes with
truffled mayonnaise. Chocolate choux are made
with fine Valrhona chocolate. Claridge’s even
stresses the heritage of the cucumbers (English,
organic) which, dressed with chamomile-infused
buttermilk, go into its version of that summer
classic: cucumber sandwiches. Rare Tea
Company expert Henrietta Lovell curates
Claridge’s menu of loose-leaf infusions.
From £58pp; claridges.co.uk
FOR
CADDY
CONNOISSEURS
Waterloo
Gardens
Teahouse, Cardiff
Love tea? You will be
in heaven at Waterloo.
It carries over 50, some
from farms so tiny they
only produce 100kg of
that tea each year. The
menu moves fluidly
with the seasons, but
76 Omagazine.com1\UL
FOR THE
FASHIONISTA
Balthazar, London
Not unexpectedly, when Balthazar – a New
York-take on a classic Parisian brasserie –
does afternoon tea, it brings the glamour. This
its staff are as enthusiastic about the classics,
such as jasmine pearl, as they are the freshest,
most refined white teas (created from young
leaves dried before they oxidise). Waterloo even
purifies its water and brews at four different
temperatures in its quest for perfection. Its food
is similarly fastidious. Afternoon tea is served
with homemade truffles and seasonal fruits, and
includes scones and interesting sandwiches
(green harissa chicken, Welsh cheddar and plum
chutney), which are all made to order. Excellent
cakes, too. £15pp; waterlootea.com
summer, in a very Ab Fab collab with cosmetics
brand Bobbi Brown, its patisserie has been
restyled by its pastry chef, Regis Beauregard, to
mimic BB’s best-known products. BB’s shimmer
bricks are represented as champagne-infused
rhubarb with orange and ginger cream. Its skin
foundation stick is now shortbread with passion
fruit consommé topped with a chocolate-encased
praline mousse. You can also add a Bobbi Brown
cocktail (tequila, lemon and lime, finished with
gingerbread liqueur and soda), or pick-up
a 25th anniversary Bobbi Brown lipstick, Vintage
Red (£20). From £25pp; balthazarlondon.com
EAT
The last
WORD IN LUXURY
Yauatcha, London
British afternoon tea only
dates to 1840 (its invention is
credited to a peckish Anna, the
Seventh Duchess of Bedford), but
the Chinese have been eating bitesize
dim sum with tea for thousands of years.
Soho’s slick Yauatcha offers a bang up-to-date
interpretation of dim sum. One where dishes
such as BBQ venison puffs (think: posh sausage
roll) and its long prawn and bean curd cheung
sun rolls are followed by vividly artistic
patisserie laid-out like jewellery in display
cases. Do not miss the raspberry delice,
‘chocolate pebbles’ or Yauatcha’s seasonal
macarons. The tea menu starts in the relatively
familiar foothills of jasmine green and camomile
but ascends in complexity to rare, partiallyoxidised blue teas, such as the Oriental Beauty.
Dim sum from £4.20; yauatcha.com
DIVERTING
DIM SUM
The Merchant Hotel, Belfast
A dazzling display of gilding, plasterwork
and chandeliers, dominated by its soaring
Victorian glass cupola, the Merchant Hotel’s
BEER
GEEKS’
DELIGHT
The Modern
Pantry, London
Ancestrally Danish,
born in Canada and
raised in New
Zealand, Anna
Hansen’s fusion
cooking has
a naturally panglobal scope. That
spirit of adventure
is also evident in the
Great Room restaurant serves an afternoon tea
that is similarly hi-spec. Warm scones arrive
wrapped in linen and you get a box designed
by local artist, Mark Reihill, to take home any
yuzu crèmeux choux or honey pain d’épices
macarons you cannot finish. At weekends,
classical musicians serenade diners. For
the ultimate blow-out, the hotel serves an
afternoon tea that includes beluga caviar and
a bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée, a champagne
in which multiple grapes, harvests and
vintages are blended to create what the Krug
family has dubbed its ‘symphony’. From
£22.50; themerchanthotel.com
afternoon tea at her swanky Finsbury Square
restaurant in The City. Its savoury and sweet
items glitter with unusual ingredients (lemon and
ajowan scone with clotted cream and gooseberry
jam; a Kashmiri vegetable hash with poached
quail egg, moromi miso and yuzu hollandaise)
and, in a novel twist, these can be paired with
craft beers from London brewers such as
Wildcard and Partizan. Tea is treasured here, too.
Small-batch selections from Lalani & Co. (for
instance, hand-rolled Himalayan jun chiyabari)
are infused at 42°C - 80°C to best capture their
flavours. From £25pp; themodernpantry.co.uk
Ellenborough Park,
Cheltenham
With views
across Cheltenham
racecourse and
beyond, this
15th-century manor
house turned luxury hotel
and spa knows how to throw
a good afternoon tea. And, throughout June,
it’s hosting a Royal Afternoon Tea in
celebration of HRH’s official birthday this
month. The three-tiered serving will include
meringue swans filled with fresh
strawberries, the Queen’s favourite
chocolate cake, freshly baked fruit scones,
smoked salmon, and egg mayonnaise and
cress sandwiches. Add a glass of
Champagne Billecart-Salmon for £12.
£25pp; ellenboroughpark.com
FOR
HRH
1\UL Omagazine.com
77
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79
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81
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B
loomsbury in London acquired a quiet overachiever back
in November – the eponymous restaurant and wine bar from wine
journal, Noble Rot. Finding its home on the pretty, independent-rich
Lamb’s Conduit Street – a place that feels as London did before selfies ever
existed or a social media site’s algorithms could cause digital uproar – the
restaurant opened to strong reviews before falling into a confident rhythm.
Owned by Mark Andrew and Dan Keeling, three years after launching
their London-based magazine, Noble Rot has a short, ingredient-led menu
that has been put together with the help of Stephen Harris (chef patron
of the acclaimed Sportsman in Whitstable) and head chef Paul Weaver.
The wine is great, obviously, with a wine list that has as much attitude
Chargrilled
asparagus,
fried duck egg
and morels
25 MINUTES | SERVES 6 AS A STARTER | EASY
VEGETARIAN
asparagus spears
groundnut oil
butter
duck eggs H[ YVVT [LTWLYH[\YL
morels VY chanterelles N JSLHULK
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PER SERVING 279 KCALS | FAT 23.7G | SATURATES 10.7G
CARBS 2.1G | SUGARS 1.8G | FIBRE 2.6G
PROTEIN 13G | SALT 0.5G
82 Omagazine.com 1\UL
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as the journal itself, breaking with convention and picking bottles on merit
rather than fashion or mass appeal.
Head to the the restaurant proper, or compete for a first-come-first-served
table at the front, with its dedicated fans (actor Rupert Everett and O
friend Marina O’Loughlin were both patrons on our last visit), and peoplewatch. The slip sole and smoked butter, and wobbly warm chocolate mousse,
have become firm favourites, as has the head chef’s habit of braising in an
oxidised rare wine – but look out for plates celebrating the seasons, too.
Head chef Paul has shared this classic, easy menu, celebrating the best
of the UK’s early summer larder, especially for our British issue. Let the
lamb slow-cook while you prepare the rest of the meal. noblerot.co.uk
COOK’S NOTES
Buy morels from farmers’ markets, local
greengrocers or buy dried morels from
souschef.co.uk. You’ll need 40g dried morels
for this recipe, and to rehydrate in boiling water.
Keep the mushroom stock for a soup or risotto.
Slow-cooked
shoulder of spring
lamb, peas, broad
beans and mint
5½ HOURS | SERVES 6 | EASY
lamb shoulder HYV\UKRN
olive oil TS
butter N
onions [OPUS` ZSPJLK
garlic JSV]LZ JY\ZOLK
red wine vinegar TS
dry white wine TS
light chicken stock TS
rosemary ZWYPNZ
bay leaves
peas N MYLZOS` WVKKLK
broad beans N KV\ISL WVKKLK
Jersey Royals N JVVRLK IVPS\U[PS
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PER SERVING 925 KCALS | FAT 62.4G | SATURATES 28.6G
CARBS 25.6G | SUGARS 9.3G | FIBRE 8.6G
PROTEIN 51.9G | SALT 0.8G
EAT
For wine
pairing
ideas visit
O
magazine.
com
1\UL Omagazine.com
83
EAT
Strawberry tart
1½ HOURS + CHILLING | SERVES 6-8 | EASY
strawberries N O\SSLK HUKOHS]LK
golden caster sugar N
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plain flour N WS\Z TVYL MVY K\Z[PUN
salted butter N J\ILK JVSK
golden caster sugar N
whole egg
egg yolk
7(:;9@ *9,(4
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golden caster sugar N
cornflour N
milk TS
vanilla pods ZWSP[ HUK ZLLKZZJYHWLKV\[
VY [ZW ]HUPSSH LZZLUJL
double cream TS
unsalted butter N
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84 Omagazine.com 1\UL
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PER SERVING (8) 492 KCALS | FAT 25.8G
SATURATES 14.6G CARBS 55.1G | SUGARS 30.9G
FIBRE 3.5G | PROTEIN 7.3G | SALT 0.4G
O
OFFERS
Supavtoe
£200
T
Star of Windermere
Stay at award-winning hotel and Michelin-starred restaurant, The Samling
he Samling Hotel has stunning views over Lake Windermere. Named
‘Best Hotel in the UK, Runner-Up’ in The Sunday Times Travel Awards,
and the proud holder of a Michelin Star, it’s a truly special place.
With 67 acres of land, The Samling Hotel has 11 rooms and is perfect for
a spontaneous night away, or for a celebration. Guests can pick cosy rooms
in the main house or the spacious cottage suites.
Pushing boundaries with inventive, exciting dishes, new head chef Nick
Edgar (formerly of Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons) is taking the hotel’s
restaurant to a whole new level. Past guests at The Samling are rumoured
to have included Tom Cruise, Brad Pitt and the Beckhams – this is a truly
outstanding 11-bedroom hotel. The hotel is expanding its restaurant
throughout 2016 – the hotel aims to keep disturbance to a minimum.
As a special offer, O readers can save up to £200 on the normal
tariff and will also enjoy a complimentary upgrade to the hotel’s fantastic
new tasting menu (worth £80 per head). Rates start at just £300 per
night including dinner, bed and breakfast for two if booked before
15 July 2016.*
£300
£350
£395
£440
–
–
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Standard Double (£500 normal tariff)
Luxury Double (£550 normal tariff)
Junior Suite (£630 normal tariff)
Suite (£690 normal tariff)
FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO BOOK, CALL 01539 431922 QUOTING O.
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June 2016 Omagazine.com
85
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GYOZA BAR, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON
A small, minimalistic space, Gyoza Bar in Covent Garden is deliberately un-fussy
and informal. Despite its name, the restaurant offers far more than dumplings – there
are also ramen, small plates (including edamame and pork samosas) and bao buns,
everything being served when it’s ready.
The ramen wasn’t as rich or complex as you can get elsewhere in the capital, but
it was nourishing, fresh and earthy. Noodles were satisfyingly slippery and there
were generous amounts of spring onion, stem broccoli and beansprouts. Crispy
Japanese ‘chips’ came as thin slices of creamy lotus root, deep-fried and served
alongside fiery mayonnaise. Bao buns were pillowy-soft and milky, as they should
be, and ours came stuffed with prawn tempura and salad.
You can have the gyozas steamed, deep-fried or pan-fried, with a vegetable,
chicken, pork, salmon or ebi dangojiru filling. The salmon gyoza were especially
good, paired with a citrussy yuzu and coconut chilli-oil sauce. Steamed gyoza,
however, soon turned flimsy – we had to resort to spoons instead of chopsticks.
It’s a heavy dessert menu, but then again it’s a pretty heavy menu overall.
No bad thing – just come hungry. gyozabar.uk (Words by Charlotte Morgan)
THE GALLERY, BARRY, SOUTH WALES
The Gallery was recently named Welsh Sustainable Restaurant of the Year for the
time in a row. And it’s little wonder when most of the produce on the weekly
ing menu comes from within a 50-mile radius.
our visit, the stand-out starter was almond-crusted cured trout with crunchy
glazed bacon, orange, and a fragrant nettle pesto (which was also baked into some
bread). A meaty portion of pan-roasted hake with olive oil mash, mussels, and
e blanc arrived topped with a striking squid ink wafer along with seasonal veg
e table; while a duo of rabbit was served with crispy pancetta, glazed apples and
earthy, braised puy lentils. For dessert, guests with bigger appetites than ours could
e from dishes like bitter chocolate tart with Seville orange marmalade ice cream; or a local cheeseboard with homemade chutneys.
lful and creative cooking coupled with great service and a passionate commitment to sustainability makes The Gallery a must-visit.
the-gallery-restaurant.co.uk (Words by Jane Cook, hungrycityhippie.co.uk)
86 Omagazine.com 1\UL
After 30 years of service, and numerous awards and accolades, the French owners of
The Great House, a 15th-century Suffolk restaurant with rooms, know how to look after
their guests. The staff, too, many of whom have been here for nearly as many years
(Enrique, the head chef, for 26; Thierry, the GM, for 16) are equally well versed.
In tune with the luxe décor, the menu is a contemporary take on French cuisine using
a selection of top local produce and choice items direct from the famous Rungis market
in Paris. Foie gras coated in almond, with dehydrated pear and a warm brioche was a
luxurious start, but a garden pea soup that sang of early summer showed how the kitchen
can handle humbler ingredients. Classics, such as dover sole meunière, with a dill beurre
noir, lemon, caper berries and a chive and lime mash, are executed masterfully, but it was the
wild halibut fillet, with a warm rhubarb gel, baby spinach fondue, and citrus and vanilla milk
foam that wowed us the most. Desserts taste as good as they look – the earl grey cloud is
seriously grown-up – but save room for the cheese trolley which deserves its own fanfare
as it arrives. greathouse.co.uk (Words by Laura Rowe)
7/6;6.9(7/@*(:(40(!16/5)3(*2>,33
THE GREAT HOUSE, LAVENHAM, SUFFOLK
EAT
PADELLA, BOROUGH MARKET, LONDON
Recently opened in London’s busy Borough Market, Padella features
eight handmade, fresh pasta dishes on its short menu, inspired by
the greatest hits that have made its sister restaurant, Trullo in
Highbury, one of the most accomplished and respected
neighbourhood restaurants in London. Tim Siadatan, who was one
of the first people to graduate from Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen scheme,
heads up the kitchen, and from the window you can see the pasta
being rolled out just hours before service.
Designed as a pasta bar, Padella is split over two levels. Counter
seating runs the entire length of the restaurant and aromas of rich,
slow-cooked sauces follow you downstairs to the intimate, low-lit
dining room. Traditional Italian flavours are at the heart of the menu,
from Dexter beef carpaccio to bruschetta with baked borlotti beans,
while burrata is drizzled with Tuscan Chiarentana Estate olive oil.
The simplest of dishes are done right: for the pici cacio e pepe the
pasta is made without egg, for a slightly doughier texture, which acts
as a magnet to the sauce of parmesan, lemon and black pepper. The
signature dish of pappardelle with eight-hour Dexter beef shin ragù
was rich and succulent, while squid ink tagliarini with Essex
mussels, wild oregano and chilli transformed local ingredients into
an irresistibly fresh main. Finish off with an espresso, the only coffee
Padella serves, or add a shot of grappa or sambuca for a caffe
corretto in true Italian style. padella.co (Words by Nicki Smith)
BUFFALO AND RYE, BIRMINGHAM
A small spot, with a relaxed speakeasy feel, Buffalo and Rye offers what it calls a “taste of
Americana” with its gourmet dogs, dirty burgers and pit-smoked meats. It’s stripped-back
and fun with timber-cladding, superhero figures along the walls, and Persian rugs underfoot,
but you can’t book, so expect a potential wait at busier times.
The majority of the meat is sourced from local, award-winning, butchers Aubrey Allen – the
St Louis ribs served with pickled vegetables and cajun fries was the star of the show on our
visit, particularly with the house slaw as a side. There’s also a small selection of nourishing
salad bowls and a simple all-day brunch menu featuring a handful of breakfast staples
including French toast and pancakes.
It’s worth setting time aside to try some of the 25 bourbons on offer (which the Buffalo and Rye team can match
to your chosen dish), the US-imported beers, or try one of the hard shakes, which give traditional milkshakes an alcoholic
twist. buffaloandrye.co.uk (Words by Charlotte Philpotts, amuchprettierpuzzle.com)
CASAMIA, BRISTOL
Casamia moved from its suburban home of 16 years in Westbury-on-Trym to the
new General development on Bristol’s waterfront back in January, and it feels like
a natural evolution for the Michelin-starred restaurant.
We opted for the 16-course spring tasting-menu (the menu changes quarterly, with
the seasons), which at £68 is still one of the best-value tasting menus in the country.
Each course is served with massive smiles by the chefs, including chef patron Peter
Sanchez-Iglesias (pictured left).
It’s a playful menu. A bespoke ceramic egg made by a Bristol artist housed
a slow-cooked yolk, tiny button mushrooms, confit tomatoes, and an egg mousse,
with fried croutons and crisp shards of Parma ham. ‘Blood orange’, one of five sweets,
proved Peter understands how to perfectly balance flavours and textures with a gel,
fresh segments, granita, the lightest rosemary mousse, and freeze-dried segments. It’s
one of the most exciting and fulfilling dining experiences I’ve had in years. The West
Country should be seriously proud. casamiarestaurant.co.uk (Words by Laura Rowe)
Restaurant
radar
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Park Regis Hotel,
Birmingham
After a £50m renovation, this
luxury, 16-floor hotel finally
opened in the spring, complete
with two restaurants – the
izakaya-style Rofuto, serving
modern Japanese with a 360°
view of the city skyline, and
1565, with classics from the
grill – and a cocktail bar
specialising in sake. It’s the first
Park Regis to open in the UK.
parkregisbirmingham.co.uk
Margot,
Covent Garden
This glamorous 100-seater
Italian is set to open this
summer with a focus on
top-notch service and the
lighter side of Italian cooking.
twitter.com/MargotLDN
Six, Cambridge
Housed just below the roof
garden of luxury boutique
Varsity hotel & spa, Six opened
a few weeks ago. Expect
wood-fired pizzas, rotisserie
chicken and globally inspired
cocktails. sixcambridge.co.uk
STREET FOOD SPOT:
THE LAFFA GU
YS
Middle-Eastern
marinated Eastern Mediterranean
Broadgate Circle and Rupert Street
Market, London. laffafood.com
pro vs punter
Hang Fire
Southern Kitchen, Barry
7/6;6.9(7/:!/<>16/57/6;6.9(7/@
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Tony Naylor PZ H
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For Hang Fire Southern Kitchen’s
sustainability score,
visit Omagazine.com
88 Omagazine.com1\UL
EAT
Our pro says...
Our punter says...
Southern Kitchen has a warm, easy-going vibe and
its staff – dressed in plaid shirts and jeans – are
relaxed, chatty and well-drilled (*I was recognised).
I was given time to browse the excellent drinks
menu of small-batch gins and craft beers (including
Hang Fire’s own creditable pale, Rocky Top,
created with The Waen Brewery), and my questions
about the meats’ provenance were fielded capably.
If the service is fine, however, the food could be
sharper. It’s a huge leap from street food to feeding
people in a restaurant, and Hang Fire’s learning
curve has been steep – and busy. Perhaps it’s time
for the team to concentrate solely on the food here,
because I found it steadfastly okay – not bad, nice
enough, but conspicuously lacking in fireworks.
The majority of items on the mixed Pit boss plate
were adequate. The pulled pork was shredded with
pieces of the ‘bark’ (its seasoned crust) correctly
mixed into the meat, but its flavours (fruity BBQ
sauce, hazy spiciness) were meek. The brisket
had a sound beefy flavour and peppery edge but
it didn’t go beyond that. Serving this, in parts quite
dry, meat on toasted bread is odd.
Both the Pit boss and burger came with so-so
skin-on fries and forgettable slaw. The burger patty,
a seven ounce mix of chuck, brisket and hanger,
was flavourful but not as moist as it could have
been. That lack of lubrication was compounded
by its peculiarly bready brioche bun and the use
of a tangy but – in this context rather dense –
putty-ish hard cheese. It was a decent burger,
but no irresistibly juicy beef bomb.
The sensational eight-hour-smoked St. Louis ribs,
made from acorn-fed Spanish pork, was the one
dish that dazzled. It hit that sweet spot, where heat,
smoke, salt and a clever glaze combine to produce a
long smooth glide of complementary flavours. You
bite through their dark, treacly exterior into
lustrously fatty meat. An assiduously spiced beef
chilli on the Pit boss plate was a similar testament
to the kitchen’s latent ability, if less exhilarating.
Hang Fire Southern Kitchen is all about the
home-style barbecue cooking of the Deep South,
and the service also has an American-style warmth,
albeit with a Barry accent. Our waiter gladly
provided tap water when asked and happily talked
us through the impressive range of homemade
sauces. Co-owner Shauna also made a point of
checking in with each table at least once.
The menu is a carnivore’s dream. There are
locally sourced rib-eye and flat iron steaks, several
burger options with barbecue add-ons and the
obligatory southern fried chicken. Vegetarians have
less choice with just a handful of aubergine and
halloumi dishes.
For starters I went for frickles. The sweet and sour
deep-fried pickles came in a satisfyingly crunchy
batter, with a drizzle of tangy mustard sauce. For
mains I ordered the Pit boss plate, a collection
of Hangfire’s greatest hits: tender, sticky-sweet ribs,
smoky pulled pork and juicy brisket served with
a host of sides. There were barbecue beans (which
were really a rich meaty stew); pickles with an
unexpected punchy hit of fennel; a serving of crisp
coleslaw; and a slice of Texas toast – basically
garlic bread, cowboy-style.
The brisket was the highlight – covered in savoury
jet-black bark from the restaurant’s smoker, and
so tender that it fells apart on the fork. It really
comes to life paired with the treacly smokiness
of the espresso barbecue sauce.
Lil Devil is the house draft IPA from Cardiff’s
Crafty Devil brewing. It’s satisfyingly citrussy
and refreshing, and cuts through the rich
barbecue sauces well.
Hang Fire is fun and affordable, but if it wants to
compete with Britain’s best – say Pitt Cue’s BBQ
or Patty Smith’s burgers – it has work to do.
Total for one, excluding service: £37.15
FOOD: 6/10
SERVICE: 7/10
VIBE: 7/10
FOOD: 9/10
SERVICE: 8/10
VIBE: 8/10
TOTAL
20/30
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THE BOTTOM LINE
Hang Fire Southern Kitchen had a lot to live up
to, thanks to the hype built up by its previous
pop-up incarnation. Fortunately, the food is as
good as its ever been, and even better in the case
of the brisket.
The décor – New Orleans with industrial touches
to reflect the restaurant’s location – is tastefully
done. Combined with the friendly, relaxed
atmosphere and wood smoke in the air, it really
adds to the experience. We’ll definitely be back.
Total for two, excluding service: £52.75
THE BOTTOM LINE
Psst...
Want to review
a restaurant?
TOTAL
25/30
1\UL Omagazine.com
89
DO TRY THIS at home
Pork pie with
vegetables à la grecque
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B
erners Tavern is a beautiful
space in the Edition Hotel
in London’s Fitzrovia. With
every inch of wall space
covered by artworks, vast
high ceilings and bronze
chandeliers it’s one of the most
glamorous dining rooms in London. Chef-owner
Jason Atherton’s long-time colleague Phil
Carmichael has been heading up the kitchen since
the opening, and is responsible for bringing
the latest iconic British touch to the starter
menu – the pork pie trolley.
Made by carpenter Andrew Clarke, who crafts
90 Omagazine.com 1\UL
Berners’ steak boards and napkin holders from
British oak, elm and cedar, the trolley is a way
of marrying the elegance of Berners Tavern with
British tradition.
Each magnificent pie takes two days to make
as Phil leaves the pork mince filling to develop
flavour with a mixture of herbs and spices
including mace, garlic and sage. A classic hot
water crust pastry gives the pie a strong crust
with classic texture.
When ordered, the whole pie is wheeled out
and slices are carved tableside, to be served with
pickled baby veg, homemade piccalilli
and mustard. bernerstavern.com
EAT
Pork pie with vegetables
à la grecque
2 HOURS + CHILLING | SERVES 8-10 AS A STARTER
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PER SERVING (10) 609 KCALS | FAT 38.8G
SATURATES 14.4G | CARBS 43.1G | SUGAR 0.7G
FIBRE 2.4G PROTEIN 20.7G | SALT 0.8G
COOK’S NOTES
Fry a small amount of the pork pie filling mix in
a frying pan to check the seasoning before
making the pie.
Vegetables à la grecque
30 MINUTES + INFUSING | SERVES 8 | EASY
70*23,
chicken stock TS
white wine TS
olive oil TS
lemon juice TS
shallot NKPJLK
salt N
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CARBS 4.9G | SUGAR 2.6G | FIBRE 3G
PROTEIN 1.1G | SALT 0.2G
1\UL Omagazine.com
91
Cocktail of the month
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10 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
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sweet vermouth TS
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lemonade [V ZLY]L
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I’ve never been a whisky fan. But driven by FOMO and a spate of cool whisky
bars opening (see Black Rock, page 95), I’m having a change of heart. If you’re
the same, try Peat from Elements of Islay, a blend of lightly peated Islay malts
that carries its cask-strength ABV (59.3%) well with baked fruit and caramel
flavours. Drink it on its own or over ice. £34.95/50cl, thewhiskyexchange.com
Wine…sort of
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92 Omagazine.com 1\UL
HOT TICKET!
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DRINK
Kat e Ha wkings on
english wine
Kate Hawkings is a food and drink writer and consultant with a special
interest in sniffing out wines from lesser-known regions and lesserknown grapes that give the most bang for your buck. She is also
a restaurateur and co-owner of Bellita in Bristol. @KateHawkings
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V
ines have been grown in England since
Roman times but our chilly climate,
more suited to grain and apples than to
grapes, mean beer and cider became the booze
of Britain and winemaking was left to our
cousins across the Channel. But things have
changed in recent years thanks to warmer
summers, improved winemaking techniques
and serious investment. There are now over
500 wineries in England and Wales, and some
of their wines are serious contenders.
The chalky soils of southern Britain are cut
from the same geological cloth as those of
Champagne, so it’s no surprise that sparkling
wine is where the English shine. Hambledon
Classic Cuvée NV (M&S and others, around
£28.50) and Nyetimber Classic Cuvée 2010
(widely available, around £25) scooped the top
two places at a blind tasting last year, knocking
into a cocked beret such hot-shot champagne
names as Pol Roger and Tattinger.
Still wines tend to be trickier as the high
acidity of grapes grown in cool climates can
be hard to balance with their lack of ripe fruit,
which is why whites and rosés generally fare
better than reds. But quality overall is
improving and, while low yields and high land
prices mean our wines will never be found on
the ‘two for a tenner’ shelves, you can find very
serviceable wines at reasonable prices.
As Brexit looms, cheap wine from Europe
may soon become an expensive luxury so we’ll
all be drinking vin d’angleterre. Yet more good
news for the UK wine industry, perhaps?
SEASONAL WINE
It pays to think ahead and stock up on
well-priced reliable wines so there’s
always something to hand for
impromptu summer drinking.
Dunleavy Vineyard’s Pinot Noir Rosé
2015 (£11.50, dunleavyvineyards.
co.uk) hits just the right balance
between fruit and acidity, while
Three Choirs Payford Bridge 2014
(£8.95, The Wine Society) bursts
with gooseberry and zippy citrus
freshness that will appeal to lovers
of sauvignon blanc.
Chapel Down Blanc de Blancs 2011
(£29.99, chapeldown.com) has
some classy bottle age which gives
it a rich and savoury complexity and
enough weight to drink with
food. Try it with the crab and
berkswell tarts on page 36.
HIGH STREET BOTTLE
Denbies Noble Harvest Ortega 2014
(£19.99, Waitrose) Waitrose is a big supporter
of English and Welsh wine and is the first
supermarket to stock an English sticky
(dessert wine). This is silky and aromatic;
honeyed but not heavy. Try it with the
buttermilk burnt rice pudding on page 36.
Where to buy
Although supermarkets are slowly
catching on to it, sourcing English
wine can be tricky. Check out the shelves
of your local independent wine merchant
or, better still, visit your nearest winery and
buy the wines direct. Most vineyards are open
to visitors and will let you taste before you buy,
and most do mail order. Find more information at
englishwineproducers.co.uk.
WINE BOOK
In The History of Wine in
100 Bottles, Oz Clarke romps
through 8,000 vinous years with
his usual infectious enthusiasm
and engaging style. 100 winebased stories entertain and
enlighten in equal measure and will appeal to wine
connoisseurs and novices alike. (£20, Pavilion Books)
1\UL Omagazine.com
93
A Royal celebration
To commemorate the Queen’s 90th birthday and celebrate Her Majesty’s
commitment to good causes, M&S is helping to host the UK’s largest-scale
street party – and you can join in the fun
CONTENTS NOT INCLUDED
U
nion Jack flag bunting, vintage
tea sets and a free-flowing supply
of bubbles; when you’re throwing
a classic British street party or
patriotic picnic, these are just a
few of the elements to get right. And on Sunday
12 June, the nation’s largest (and arguably finest)
street party will take place.
On this historic day, M&S is helping celebrate
The Queen’s patronage of more than 600 charities
and organisations. Taking place on Her Majesty’s
90th Birthday, The Patron’s Lunch, is set to be a
highlight of the British calendar this year and will
turn The Mall into the country’s largest ever street
party. And everyone’s invited.
Of course, the food is the absolute centrepiece,
bringing the whole celebration to culinary life.
And no one does classic British food better than
M&S. So it was a natural partner to provide a
luxurious hamper for all guests. And in true
patriotic spirit, M&S has also created a bespoke
picnic collection to help the rest of the nation
join in with the celebrations.
The official Patron’s Lunch Hamper, which
will be served on The Mall, showcases some of the
finest British seasonal produce and ingredients.
Inside is an exquisite lunch and afternoon tea
picnic carefully curated by M&S food and drink
experts to celebrate the occasion in style.
Even if you’ve not got a ticket to The Mall
celebrations, you can still join in. Pop into
your local M&S and shop the bespoke picnic
collection created especially for The Patron’s
Lunch. This delicious selection focuses on
products and ingredients from across the British
Isles. It includes picnic classics such as a Best
of British Sandwich Selection, Piccalilli Topped
Mini Pork Pies, Posh Raspberry Royale Desserts,
and dainty Butterfly Cakes.
If you’d like to make your own picnic, try
the Wiltshire Sliced Ham, Cornish Cove Mature
Cheddar and Sandringham Oak Smoked Salmon
to create your own quiches and sandwiches.
Patron’s Lunch Wicker Hamper
with Dark Blue Trim £20
This traditional hamper makes a
picnic extra special, and there’s
room inside for all your goodies.
“The Patron’s Lunch Hamper has been created by our food
experts who have put all their passion and creative know-how
into devising a special picnic for the celebration.”
Sandra Ziles, Head of M&S Product Development
ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
2 Smoked Salmon Mousse £5.00
Made using the exclusive M&S
Scottish Lochmuir Salmon, which is slow
grown for superior taste. The salmon has
been slow smoked over wood chips from
oak trees grown on the Sandringham
Estate in Norfolk.
Pressed British
Windsor Apple
Juice £1.50
This refreshing pressed
juice is crafted from the
Windsor apple variety
that flourishes in the
Suffolk countryside.
These beautiful red
apples are known for
their distinct robust
flavour and aroma,
which has honey
flavoured undertones.
Best of British Sandwich
Selection £3.30
Four of the nation’s finest. Roasted
Northern Irish Beef, Scottish Smoked
Trout, Applewood Smoked Wiltshire Ham
and Welsh Mature Cheddar Cheese with
Windsor Apple Chutney.
9 Mini Butterfly Cakes £4.00
Exquisite little bites of sweet indulgence.
These cute butterfly cakes are the perfect
picnic size. Choose from chocolate,
strawberry or lemon frosting, or sample
them all. The dinky butterfly wings add
a pretty, decorative touch.
2 Tulameen Raspberry &
Strawberry Royale £4
Juicy and sweet Tulameen raspberries
are combined with strawberry jelly and
layered with gluten-free sponge and
clotted whipped cream for a delicious
dessert. Topped with a chocolate crown.
Piccalilli Topped Mini Pork Pies £2.40
The ultimate British pork pie with a spicy
and regal twist. Hot water crust pastry is
hand finished with piquant piccalilli and
a pastry crown. Slice up and serve with
salad or indulge in one simply on its own.
The Pembrokeshire
chicken salad
The free-range chicken,
reared by Justin Scales on
the Pembrokeshire coast is
the centrepiece of this salad.
It’s offset by earthy Wye
Valley asparagus, grown by
John Chinn (far right) and
sweet Cornish new potatoes.
Patron’s Picnic Bag £8.00
In royal blue, naturally, this handy tote
doubles up as a picnic and grocery
shopping holdall. With a cool lining,
it keeps all your picnic or shopping
essentials fresh, from the house to
the park or shop to your fridge.
Piccalilli pork pies
Hand-crafted by expert pie
makers who boast an
impressive baking heritage.
The original recipe was
created in 1824 and uses
100% British pork. The
piccalilli adds a subtle
tangy kick.
Sandringham
oak-smoked salmon
Slow-grown for superior taste
and texture, Sandringham
Lochmuir oak-smoked
salmon is an M&S exclusive.
The salmon is slow-smoked
over oak wood chips grown
on the Sandringham Estate
in Norfolk.
To find out more about The Patron’s Lunch, visit thepatronslunch.com
Visit marksandspencer.com for details on the hamper and in-store picnic collection
June
7/6;6.9(7/!705.*664),:
EXPLORE
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10 great places to eat & drink in Budapest
A new gourmet bolthole in Fife | The hottest foodie travel news
Home-cured gravadlax on the Isle of Wight
1\UL Omagazine.com
97
ON THE ROAD:
THE LAKE
DISTRICT
ONE WAY
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I
t’s not good news for squirrels. The
most eagerly awaited hotel opening
in the Lakes might be called The
Forest Side (theforestside.com) but this
is no safe haven for the bushy-tailed.
Head chef Kevin Tickle is a man
on a mission, switching from forager
to vermin vigilante, hunter as well as gatherer.
His aim: to put grey squirrel on the menu and
save the native red. Squirrel Nutkin has a new
champion – although Beatrix Potter might turn
in her grave.
Kevin’s credentials are Lake District gold.
He spent nine years learning the ropes from Simon
Rogan at L’Enclume (lenclume.co.uk) on the
Lakes’ southern edge. Now he has his own
kingdom. The menu, on rough brown paper tied
with twine, a pen-and-ink drawing of the Lakeland
fells on the front, outlines his ethos: Inspired by
the Cumbrian Landscape. But, then, this bastion
of heart-stopping beauty has inspired more than
its share of creative genius over the centuries.
98 Omagazine.com 1\UL
The 10-course tasting menu (11 including
cheese) is called The Grand Un – and it is. From
the almost cloying richness (tempered by seaside
saltiness) of hen’s yolk, kohlrabi, sea lettuce
and marsh herbs, to the fresher-than-toothpaste
zing of frozen yogurt, celery, lemon thyme,
ingeniously paired with sparkling sake. The
scorched pear, malt, ginger beer dessert is
pungent and peppery, and is paired with
homemade ginger beer, a mouthful of thick,
dark, fiery sweetness.
Set back from the road on the edge of picture
postcard-pretty Grasmere, and surrounded by
sweeping grounds, Forest Side is grand, grey
and Victorian, and another filly for the Wildsmith
hotels stable, sister to Hipping Hall. Inside,
roaring fires flicker beside contemporary Cole
and Son wallpaper. Outside, the large kitchen
garden will soon bear fruit and veg. Seedling
to plate is another of Kevin’s passions.
Forest Side is an exciting addition to a culinary
landscape that has changed dramatically over the
last couple of decades. England’s largest national
park, the Lake District is home to the country’s
longest lake (Windermere), its deepest
(Wastwater), its highest waterfall (Scale Force)
and its highest peak (Scafell Pike) but, until
quite recently, the most innovative food to come
out of the region was a curly sausage (it now has
PGI status).
No longer. Pubs that once dished up chickenin-the-basket vie with restaurants, including
former Cumbria Tourism Pub of the Year, The
Wild Boar Inn, Grill and Smokehouse
(englishlakes.co.uk), near Windermere, which has
a micro-brewery and smokehouse stocking the
restaurant with smoked wild boar chops.
The Drunken Duck (drunkenduckinn.co.uk)
in Barnsgate also has a microbrewery, as well
as a handful of boutique hotel-style bedrooms.
Instead of basket meals, these days you can
enjoy cheddar and almond soufflé with onion
soubise and crispy sage, and pork collar with
celeriac, celery, truffle and crackling before your
7/6;6.9(7/:!16/5(9(5+/(9()3(*2>,33 .,;;@7/0390.)@*<4)90(30-,
>VYKZ3<*@.033469,
EXPLORE
Don’t miss!
Our exclusive reader
offer with The Samling
Hotel in The Lake
District
p87
SCENIC
ROUTE
jam roly poly. Thankfully the name hasn’t
changed; you can’t help loving a pub
with a legend involving
a leaking barrel of beer
and ducks half-plucked
by a landlady who thought
them dead, not dead drunk.
Another quirky place to
stay is the Rum Doodle
(rumdoodlewindermere.com)
in Windermere. This
stylish B&B is named after
the mountaineering spoof
novel The Ascent of Rum
Doodle, and serves
Cumbrian-sourced
breakfasts and a fine line
in home-baking to guests.
The region’s sweets are celebrated; from sugary
confection Kendal Mint Cake to Grasmere
Gingerbread and Cumberland Rum Nicky, a
rum-scented date pastry revived by the Appleby
Bakery (now owned by Bryson’s of Keswick).
Look out for the latter at Booths: the
community-minded
supermarket chain is an
institution here, with seven
branches in Cumbria, four
of them within the Lakes,
and it champions local
producers (booths.co.uk).
Another sweet treat,
sticky toffee pudding
(cartmelvillageshop.co.uk),
is also a Lake District
invention. Last autumn
it celebrated its 25th
anniversary and, while the
puddings are now made
in nearby Flookburgh, their original home, the
pretty village of Cartmel, is where you’ll find
a clutch of Simon Rogan’s restaurants.
L’enclume, the most celebrated, feels low-key
and local with its stone-flagged floor and slate
“You can’t help
loving a pub with a
legend involving a
barrel of beer and
ducks half-plucked
by a landlady who
thought them dead,
not dead drunk”
walls. But from the fragrant pink rhubarb cordial,
served in a long glass with a slice of sweet, dried
rhubarb, to the bread (freshly made sourdough
with a jar of rendered pork fat and apple) the
attention to detail is obvious.
Each dish is exquisite and clever. Broth of
artichoke, Westcombe, hen of the woods, teases
diners: the cheese ball is cheese-free. Cheeseinfused water is thickened and made into balls.
Valley venison, charcoal oil, mustard and fennel is
a house specialty. The delicately diced venison
from the Holker estate is peppered with tiny
sugary balls of gin infused with fennel and sugar
which explode in your mouth.
There are other starry places to eat in the
Lakes – Sharrow Bay, near Pooley Bridge
(sharrowbay.co.uk), Gilpin Lodge, outside
Windermere (thegilpin.co.uk), Lake Road
Kitchen, Ambleside, and The Samling
(thesamlinghotel.co.uk), near Ambleside, among
them; the latter has just bagged Nick Edgar from Le
Manoir aux Quat’Saisons as head chef – but
I have other cravings. In Ambleside outdoor
clothing shops vie for space with gourmet delis
as well as restaurants. At one of these, The Old
Stamp House (oldstamphouse.com), the signature
dish is hogget. The whitewashed walls of Ryan
Blackburn’s restaurant are hung with drawings of
native Herdwick sheep and the fell-fed hogget, from
John Watson’s Yew Tree Farm, is richly gamey.
Ryan highlights the native Cumbrian larder, from
an amuse-bouche of black pudding bonbons on
Cumberland sauce reduced to a curd, the sweetness
complementing the black pudding’s pungent
earthiness, to brown shrimps, cauliflower, pine nut,
curry and mead – his take on potted shrimp.
Staggering back outside, I waddle towards the
local bookshop in search of an Alfred Wainwright
fell-walking guide – relieved that I’ve packed my
walking boots. All foodie travellers making a
beeline for the Lake District take note. A tramp
in the hills is the only way to shift those calories.
HOW TO DO IT
Double rooms at The Forest Side cost from
£299, including dinner, bed and breakfast
(theforestside.com).
For more information see golakes.co.uk.
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EXPLORE
Cook like a local
MALAYSIA
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ith its lush
rainforests, white
sand beaches
and vibrant and
historical cities, it’s
little wonder that
tourists want to visit
Malaysia. Like its better-known neighbours,
Singapore and Thailand, food is another big draw
in this colourful Southeast Asian country.
The influences of Malaysia’s three major
cultures – Malay, Chinese and Indian – can be
clearly found in the country’s food, and many
visitors now arrive specifically hoping to
experience the enormous variety of its cuisine,
from classic dishes such as beef rendang and
charcoal-grilled satay to oyster omelettes, roti
canai (a Malaysian take on Indian paratha) and
gula melaka marquise, a modern twist on the
country’s palm sugar-based dessert served at
high-end restaurant Dewakan, in the capital,
Kuala Lumpur (dewakan.my).
Skyscraper-packed Kuala Lumpur is also home
to the iconic Petronas Twin Towers (at just under
452m high, they’re the tallest twin structures in
the world), and to a wide selection of fabulous
rooftop cocktail bars; enjoy one of the best views
of the city, paired with a dark & stormy made
with rum, homemade ginger beer and calamansi
limes at Fuego (troikaskydining.com/fuego).
For an earthier take on Malaysian eating and
drinking, head 200km north, to quieter Ipoh, and
try the region’s signature dish, gai see hor fun
(silky soft rice noodles in a rich prawn and
chicken stock). Ipoh is also known for its bean
sprouts; the area’s mineral-rich water and
limestone hills produce the juiciest in the world.
Or head south to the World Heritage city of
Malacca, and explore its rich architectural
heritage fuelled up on classic local dishes such
as satay celup (skewers of vegetables, meat and
seafood cooked in bubbling peanut sauce).
»
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102 Omagazine.com 1\UL
/<;65.7/6;6.9(7/!(3(4@
of the best places to eat & drink
EXPLORE
COOK’S NOTES
Once you’ve made the
paste, you can keep it
in the fridge for up to
a month. You can buy
dried shrimps from Asian
supermarkets or
thai-food-online.co.uk
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1\UL Omagazine.com
103
£10 OFF
YOUR FIRST WEB ORDER *
WHEN YOU SPEND £30
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EXPLORE
7
Modern cooking Among a handful
of Michelin-starred options in the city,
Borkonyha (Wine Kitchen) is a mustvisit. The service is spot-on, and the modern
Hungarian menu changes regularly to highlight
what’s at the market. Be sure to finish your meal
with a glass of Tokaji aszú, Hungary’s iconic
dessert wine. borkonyha.hu
Comfort food Goulash may be the
country’s most famous dish but don’t
overlook pörkölt. At Gettó Gulyás, a new
home-style restaurant, you can try over a dozen
types of this paprika-laced stew as well as classic
Hungarian starters (bone marrow and toast) and
desserts (curd cheese dumplings and Somlói
galuska). facebook.com/gettogulyas
Drink up Ruin bars have become
a Budapest phenomenon. In the past they
popped up in random vacant buildings and
outdoor spaces, but these days they come in more
manicured forms. Mazel Tov, with its lovely
garden courtyard and a kitchen that turns out
Middle Eastern specialties, is a grown-up version
of the concept. mazeltov.hu
Pint-sized Budapest’s thriving
cocktail scene includes tiny Bar
Pharma, which can hold no more
than 10 people. The mixologists always have
an experiment bubbling behind the bar, but don’t
miss the boozy ice creams. Flavours include one
that is laced with Unicum. barpharma.hu
8
Weekender
BUDAPEST
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Private dining At Zoltán 18,
a supperclub-style restaurant, memorable
meals are served at a long, communal,
wooden table. Anatoli, the Canadian/Russian
chef, creates gorgeous fixed-menu dinners with
local wine pairings; typical menus include crab
and shrimp cake followed by boar with stewed
quince and hazelnuts. facebook.com/
Zoltan18Gastro
To market Most Budapest neighbourhoods
have market halls where locals rub
shoulders with chefs. The city’s three-level
Central Market is a must-visit, but smaller
newly refurbished food halls like the Klauzaltér
Market in the 7th district and the Hold utca
Market in the 5th district are also fine places
to browse and grab lunch. Vámház krt. 1-3
Out of town It’s a 40-minute drive to the
charming Etyek wine region. Have lunch
on the patio at Rókusfalvy Fogadó and
pair it with a bottle of the restaurant’s own wine
(its winery is just down the street). Other local
wineries include Hernyák, Kertész, and Etyeki
Kúria, and are worth visiting for fine pinot noirs
and sauvignon blancs. rokusfalvyfogado.hu
The classics Its modest exterior belies
the extraordinary menu at Rosenstein
Vendégl, the city’s landmark Jewish
restaurant. Owner/chef Tibor Rosensten and his
son Róbert serve excellent matzo ball soup and
sólet (slow-baked bean stew) as well as Jewish
egg salad. rosenstein.hu
Bittersweet Unicum is a herbal bitter
made from a secret recipe that includes
over 40 herbs. It’s one of the national
drinks, with a distinctive bomb-shaped bottle,
and has a fascinating back-story. Find out more,
and enjoy a tasting, at the Zwack Unicum
Museum. zwack.hu
Sugar sugar A pilgrimage to Daubner
Cukrászda is a weekend ritual for many
Budapest families. Don’t let the queues
deter you. Once you reach the counter, and its
pastry cases packed with Dobos torta, Esterházy
torta, krémes and other decadent pastries, you’ll
be glad you waited. daubnercukraszda.hu
4
2
5
3
6
9
10
HOW TO DO IT
Return flights from various UK airports cost
from around £80 (wizzair.com). Double rooms
at Brody House start from £55, room only
(brodyhouse.com). More info: gotohungary.com.
TRUST
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Beside the
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EXPLORE
>69+:!*/(936;;,469.(5
ISLE OF WIGHT
Brits have been holidaying in the Isle of Wight’s
resorts since Victorian times and it’s partly that
traditional charm that attracts us today. On the
island’s southern tip you can stay in a hotel
(The Royal) that the Michelin Guide has
recommended every year since it was first
published in 1911. But skip over to Newport
or Cowes and you’ll find ambitious young
restaurateurs using island produce in
modern sleek recipes.
Sleep: Afternoon tea served on manicured lawns
and a lofty dining room that looks as if it once
doubled as a ballroom show that The Royal hasn’t
lost its Victorian feel. Bedrooms enjoy
the same ambience and most are painted sky
blue to complement the views of Ventnor Bay,
a five-minute walk away.
At the opposite end of the scale, The Little
Gloster, in Cowes, takes inspiration from co-owner
Ben Cooke’s Danish grandmother. Set against The
Solent, a stretch of water usually peppered with
sailboats, it looks like an unfussy little bungalow
from the outside, but inside, its clean, white
interiors are illuminated, Scandinavian-style, by
candlelight. The three suites here are minimal but
cosy; lounge on squashy cushions on your veranda
and watch the yachts.
Eat: The Royal’s traditional dining room belies the
kitchen’s clever, delicate cooking. Cheese soufflés
made from the island’s gallybagger cheese (similar
to cheddar) are so light that they evaporate
on the tongue; and pearly white lemon sole
has just the right level of bite. For a more
modern menu, head to Thompson’s in
Newport (robertthompson.co.uk). Chef
Robert Thompson’s first solo venture, you
can watch him in his tiny open-plan kitchen
producing dishes such as smoked wood
pigeon carpaccio – velvety soft and
dramatically presented under a smoky glass
globe – and skate wing served with rich,
porky black pudding balls.
Not surprisingly, The Little Gloster offers
a subtly Scandinavian-inspired menu
– try house-cured gravadlax with a shot
of homemade aquavit, or catch-of-the-day
with punchy pickled cockles and vegetal
seaweed mash.
Do: Take in the beauty of Tennyson Down
(the poet lived on the island for over a decade)
on a walk from The Needles to Freshwater
Bay, stopping off at Dimbola Lodge for fat
scones with jam and cream (dimbola.co.uk).
Double rooms at The Royal start from £190,
b&b (royalhoteliow.co.uk) and at The Little
Gloster from £120, b&b (thelittlegloster.com).
Return vehicle ferry crossings from Southampton
to East Cowes cost from £51 (redfunnel.co.uk).
More info: visitisleofwight.co.uk
»
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BABBACOMBE
Double rooms at The Cary Arms start from
£195, b&b (caryarms.co.uk).
More info: visitdevon.co.uk
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Babbacombe is the kind of place Agatha Christie
might have sent a recuperating character to: there’s
Devon sunshine, blue seas, charming Oddicombe
beach (made private by the shelter of a steep,
tree-lined cliff) and even an art deco funicular
railway linking the beach to Babbacombe’s pretty
clifftop green. Standing sentinel over all of this
is the Cary Arms, squeezed inside the curve
of the bay directly above the beach.
Sleep: The Cary Arms dates back to the 1800s
and feels custom-designed to embrace the view.
Bedrooms (some dog-friendly) have a fresh,
coastal feel. If there are more of you than two, rent
one of the adjoining blue-and-white fisherman’s
cottages that come with log fires and fancy
bathrooms. Or, for a romantic weekend, book one
of the inn’s new beach huts. Inside these duplex
suites is a private sitting room and bathroom with
a mezzanine bedroom upstairs and nothing but the
sparkling English Channel in front.
Eat: This must be the most tranquil place for a
pint in Devon; the view stretches to Portland Bill
in Dorset and takes in the pink-soil cliffs of the
English Riviera and an old pier where both seals
and locals like to fish.
The panorama changes with where you sit –
tables inside the conservatory and the circular
‘captain’s table’ outside are particularly lovely.
Also outside is a series of terraces separated
by rock gardens while, inside, it’s all log fire
cosiness, with tables pointing seawards and
shiny nautical brassware.
For breakfast, try grilled kippers or the Devon
full English, for lunch a succulent local white
crab meat and lemon mayonnaise bloomer.
Dinner centres around fish – pick one of the
chef’s specials for the freshest catch, delicately
poached John Dory with basil pesto and seasonal
vegetables, perhaps, or Lyme Bay lobster.
The wine list is extensive and each week the
De Savary family (the inn’s owners) choose
a different house white and red.
Do: Walk along Oddicombe beach via a wooden
walkway to reach the funicular (look out for crabs
skirting the rock pools below) and catch your ride
up the cliffs.
EXPLORE
>69+:!:(9(/)(?;,9
NORTH NORFOLK
With its cinematic beaches and big skies, the
North Norfolk coast has long drawn walkers,
cocklers, twitchers and bucket-and-spaders.
But, increasingly, visitors are lured there by
food. Norfolk’s north-west is especially flavourintense. Thornham is home to the Orange
Tree (Norfolk Dining Pub of the Year 2016;
theorangetreethornham.co.uk), tiny Titchwell
has its award-winning Manor (more on that later).
At mast-clanking Brancaster Staithe, the freshest
mussels and local smoked fish are stuffed into
baguettes at the Crab Hut. And, amongst the
pretty flint-and-brick cottages of Burnham
Market, you can buy potted shrimp from
Gurneys Fishmonger (gurneysfishshop.co.uk)
and Norfolk pork pies from Humble Pie
Deli (humble-pie.com).
Sleep: Handsome redbrick Titchwell Manor
gazes across the marshes to The Wash. Formerly a
farmhouse, built by Oxford’s Magdalen College
in 1897, it’s now a smart 27-room hotel that marries
Victorian stateliness with bold, modern brio. The
manor guestrooms are a riot of statement wallpaper,
vintage pieces and acid colours. There are calmer
blue-white or neutral retreats in the converted
outbuildings, arranged around the herb garden;
best is The Potting Shed, a standalone hideaway
with log burner, veranda and roll-top bath.
Eat: Head chef Eric Snaith, whose family bought
Titchwell Manor when he was a boy, learned on
the job. Like its rooms, Titchwell’s kitchen caters
for all tastes. Robust bar staples in the hotel’s
Eating Rooms offer counterpoint to the
Conservatory’s inventive tasting menus (poached
cod, beer broth and inky squid crackers) and
monthly supper clubs – 15 June is Crab Shack
night. Snaith does foraging, too: sea purslane,
stonecrop, sea buckthorn to infuse vodka.
In nearby Thornham, Eric’s Fish & Chips
(ericsfishandchips.com), opened by Snaith
in 2015, elevates the old coastal faves:
sustainable fish in beer batter, pickled
quails’ eggs, homemade black garlic aïoli.
Do: Hire binoculars and explore Titchwell
Marsh RSPB Reserve – trails run alongside the
wetlands to the beach and state-of-the-art hides.
In summer, look for marsh harriers gliding over
the reeds and avocets on the lagoons.
Double rooms at Titchwell Manor start from £125,
b&b, or £185, dinner, b&b (titchwellmanor.com).
More info: visitnorthnorfolk.com
»
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ELIE
110 Omagazine.com1\UL
vibe is accentuated by old wooden oars, rope
ladders and glass buoys. Contemporary comfort
comes from roll-top baths, monsoon showers,
flat-screen TVs, espresso machines
and free WiFi. From the window seat of the
top-floor ‘Admiral’ room you can gaze down
on dog-walkers weaving across the village’s
broad, sandy beach.
Eat: Famous for its fish and chips, the inn
champions Scottish seafood and local shellfish
(the crab, lobster and langoustine are landed at
nearby Pittenweem). You can tuck into pub grub,
bangers and mash-style, or opt for home-cured
salmon with samphire, confit fennel and saffron
dressing followed by seared sea bream with
cauliflower and samphire, tempura oyster and
crispy capers.
Do: Watch a game of cricket from the beer
garden. The inn is the only pub in Britain to
have a cricket team with a pitch on the beach;
this year’s cricket festival takes place from
12-14 August.
Double rooms at The Ship Inn start from £90,
including breakfast (shipinn.scot).
More info: foodfromfife.co.uk
>69+:!3<*@.033469,
Imagine Cornwall, only quieter. Much of
The Kingdom of Fife, just over the Forth Bridge
from Edinburgh, is neat farmland and its
coastline is peppered with sand and old stone
villages. Harbours team with fishing trawlers
unloading creels of langoustine and lobster,
and lanes are lined with fancy farm shops and
Italian ice-cream cafés (check out Jannettas
in St Andrews; jannettas.co.uk): in summer
Fife feels like a giant picnic hamper.
In the heart of it, in the village of Elie, is The
Ship Inn. A local institution, it’s recently been
taken over by Graham and Rachel Bucknall
and they’ve revamped it, opening an upstairs
restaurant and six contemporary bedrooms.
In the pub, dogs lie in front of a roaring fire,
seafaring photos hang on the walls and a beer
garden just above the beach is perfect for a
sundowner (try a local Eden Mill gin and tonic).
This is old-fashioned bucket-and-spade territory.
Go cockling on the shore, build sandcastles,
tuck into a pub barbecue or walk out along
Fife’s Coastal Path.
Sleep: The Ship’s new bedrooms are decked out
in fresh, coastal style with a smattering of
junk-shop finds. Bedside tables are made from
stacks of old suitcases. Walls are clad with
aquamarine tongue-and-groove and the seaside
EXPLORE
>69+:!9/0(5565)(;;,5
ABERDOVEY
Tell someone you’re going to Aberdovey and the
reply tends to be “Abu Dhabi? Lucky you!” It’s
not so much visitors in the Arabian Gulf who are
fortunate, however, but those who make a beeline
for this picturesque estuary village in Snowdonia,
on the west coast of Wales. Whether in bright
sunshine or under dishwater skies, the coastline
always seems picture-perfect.
For walkers and dog-owners there are miles
of wind-whipped sand and dunes to wander (often
deserted outside the peak summer months) and,
directly behind the village, rolling green hills
leading off towards the sky. You can try
your hand at all manner of watersports. And
Aberdovey itself is a creative little place, with
art galleries, cafés and a deli.
Sleep: For a mixed generation get-together, book
one of the handful of cottages at the Trefeddian
Hotel. A classic family-friendly retreat with a bit
of old-fashioned grandeur, it’s in a quiet position
just outside the village, separated from the sand
dunes by a golf course (visit off-season and you
can watch its greens being dutifully nibbled by
sheep). Cottage guests can use all the hotel
facilities, which include a great children’s games
room and swimming pool. There is a restaurant
but, if you’re staying in a cottage, you can eat
both in and (if you have babysitting-willing
grandparents in tow) out.
Eat: Aberdovey has a fish restaurant, pubs and
a decent fish and chip shop, but it’s worth
booking a table at the Salt Marsh Kitchen in
neighbouring Tywyn (saltmarshkitchen.co.uk).
This small bistro is particularly good on fish
and local meat; check the specials board for
adeptly-cooked scallops, hake or bouillabaisse.
Or, for fine dining, drive half an hour around
the coast to Michelin-starred Ynyshir Hall
for chef Gareth Ward’s elegant tasting menus
(ynyshirhall.co.uk). One of the Good Food
Guide’s top 50 restaurants in the UK this year,
expect stellar service and Japanese-influenced
cooking: lamb rib with mint and soy, or a
deconstructed tiramisu.
Do: It’s all about the shoreline here, whether you
want to paint it, sail it or walk it. If you really don’t
want to step outside, hunker down at the Trefeddian
with a Welsh afternoon tea: buttered bara brith,
homemade Welsh cakes and tea or coffee.
Cottage rental at the Trefeddian Hotel starts from
£285 for six people for a week (trefwales.com).
More info: visitsnowdonia.info
1\UL Omagazine.com
111
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which includes the Christmas double issue and a contribution towards postage.
EXPLORE
FOOD
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EXPLORE
SLEEP
Directions of travel
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7/6;6.9(7/!7/(0+65964(0590*(9+
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FOOT WORK
On sale
17
June
Born to
grill
Introducing the new heroes
of the summer barbecue –
avocadoes (they’re good for more
than just guac!), spring onions,
corn-on-the-cob and more
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Plan a foodie
weekend in Reykjavik
Maple and bacon scones | Frozen peach margaritas
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1\UL Omagazine.com
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G
in was born in 1689,
when King William of
Orange dropped taxes
and licensing from distillation
to curtail French brandy
imports and use up grain
surpluses. Overnight, London began its
transformation into a city of distillers and within
116 Omagazine.com 1\UL
>,:;
decades you could find a working gin still in one
out of every four habitable structures.
Punch houses and gin palaces thrived. However,
not all of these early distilleries were selling safe
alcohol. Beginning in 1736, parliament stepped in
with a series of acts meant to place Madame
Geneva in her coffin. While these acts never
succeeded in quashing gin production, they did
Gin
curtail bad production and helped to shape gin
as we know it today.
Gin had humble beginnings. It was first distilled
with a single ingredient to flavour it: juniper,
specifically juniperus communis imported from
the northern Mediterranean. It was imported to
the UK for centuries before gin was born and was
in huge demand during the plague, when people
EXPERT
thought the deadly illness was spread by bad
odours and that juniper would ward these off
(unaware that juniper oil is a flea repellant).
However, after the birth of gin, distillers quickly
introduced other botanicals: citrus peels; angelica,
liquorice and orris roots; cinnamon and cassia;
coriander seeds and many other ingredients (see
p118). By the mid 19th century there were over
a dozen gin styles. Today we’re familiar with three:
London Dry, Plymouth, and Old Tom, but back
then, they also made table gin, cordial gin, fine
cordial gin, cream of the valley, plus others – all
long lost and forgotten.
In 1820, the last distillery opened in London.
Distilleries closed or relocated over the ensuing
years until London was left with only Beefeater in
Kennington and Thames Distilling in Southwark,
that is until 2009 when the first new license was
issued to Sipsmith Independent Spirits. A raft of
new micro-distilleries quickly followed. London is
distilling once again and gin is now produced up
and down the country.
MACERATION
A still is loaded with neutral spirit, water, and
botanicals. It’s briefly warmed, then allowed
to steep, releasing the flavours of the botanicals.
How long bontanicals are steeped varies
between gins.
:;@305.!16/(990:*6*2;(03:;@305.!:(9(/205.:)<9@
ONE-SHOT
Gin that is made without adding any neutral spirit
after distillation. Only a few gins today are made
this way, Sipsmith is one of them. The majority
Gin
Bramble
10 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY
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London Dry gin TS
lemon juice TS
sugar syrup TS
crème de mure TS
lemon wedge [V ZLY]L VW[PVUHS
blackberries [VZLY]L
DISTILLING
TERMS
DISTILLATION
The temperature of a liquid is raised until it reaches
its boiling point (78.3°C for beverage alcohol).
The alcohol vapours rise up the still and are then
condensed back into liquid form. This separates
the beverage alcohol from other substances.
Cocktail
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of gins are made from gin concentrate where less
than 25ml of liquid of botanical distillate goes into
each bottle. The rest is neutral spirit and water.
COLD COMPOUNDED
Historically considered an inferior technique,
cold compounded gin is made by adding
flavourings to neutral spirit and bottling it
rather than adding flavours through distillation.
Popular gin styles
LONDON DRY
Characterised by soft pine and
citrus in the nose and on the
palate, nothing can be added
after distillation except water and neutral spirit.
Tanqueray, Sipsmith, Star of Bombay and The
Botanist are all London Drys.
OLD TOM
Made with exponentially more liquorice and no
savoury botanicals, it comes across as a
sweetened gin. The first commercial Old Tom
was sold in 1812. Cheap imitations were
sweetened with sugar after distillation. An 1823
British dictionary of slang explains that Old
Tom took its name from the vessel it was stored
in, a large barrel nicknamed Old Tom. There
are a few brands available, such as Hayman’s.
PLYMOUTH GIN
Until very recently, this was an appellation, and
could only come from Plymouth, UK. It has
more sweet citrus notes than London dry.
It’s both a type and brand in itself.
1\UL Omagazine.com
117
EXPERT
Botanicals
Strawberry
jaffa cakes
Some common botanicals used in gin include:
JUNIPER BERRIES
Not berries at all, they are the female seed
cones of the juniper bush. The scales are
fleshy and merged together giving them the
appearance of berries. The best come from the
Mediterranean as juniper needs that specific
soil and climate to produce the best flavour.
Orange peel
Rosemary
ORANGE AND LEMON PEELS
Harvested and dried in the Mediterranean,
these peels bring a range of flavours to the
foretaste of gin from marmalade and cream
to bright fresh citrus.
CORIANDER SEEDS
Making up equal volume to the juniper
in many gin formulas, coriander seeds
bring lemongrass and black pepper notes
(depending on the variety). These flavours
generally appear in the aftertaste.
Coriander
seeds
ORRIS
The root of the Florentine iris flower imparts
subtle violet notes.
CASSIA
Bolder than its close cousin cinnamon, it
highlights the warm spice notes of the juniper.
Cinnamon
Pink
peppercorns
Black
peppercorns
Cardamon
Juniper
berries
118 Omagazine.com 1\UL
CINNAMON
More complex than cassia, it adds rich, round,
warming spice notes.
ANGELICA
The seeds are common in Indian cuisine,
the candied stems are a lost English
confection, but it is the roots that are used
in gin. Angelica is considered a binding
agent, bringing balance to the other flavours.
It’s a very complex botanical: herbaceous,
sweet, savoury, and peppery with hints
of celery.
LIQUORICE
A kilo of sugar in the still wouldn’t effect the
flavour of the distillate as sugar stays behind
in distillation. A tiny bit of liquorice, however,
gives a distinct sensation of sweetness. An
old Yorkshire crop (think Pontefract cakes),
it’s now primarily grown in India and on the
Arabian peninsula. The bulk is sold to the
American tobacco industry to sweeten
their products.
Last bite
recipe
40 MINUTES + COOLING + SETTING
MAKES 12 | A LITTLE EFFORT
sunflower oil
strawberries N O\SSLK HUK YV\NOS`JOVWWLK
strawberry jelly cubes N WHJR
dark chocolate N IYVRLUPU[VJO\URZ
whipping cream [IZW
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eggs TLKP\T `VSRZ HUK ^OP[LZ
golden caster sugar N
plain flour N
ground almonds N
vanilla extract[ZW
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PER SERVING 244 KCALS | FAT 15.6G | SATURATES 7.3G
CARBS 20.2G | SUGARS 16.7G | FIBRE 2.4G
PROTEIN 4.2G | SALT 0G
COOK’S NOTES
Make a double batch of the sponges, ditch the chocolate, then
sandwich rounds of jelly with a little whipped cream between two
sponges. Dust with sugar for the cutest Victoria sponges ever.
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LAST BITE
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JAFFA CAKE
NEXT ISSUE ON SALE 17 JUNE: Osummer supermarket awards
Our best-ever veggie BBQ recipes | Show-off seafood
PLUS The best Mediterranean food trips and a weekend in Reykjavik
122 Omagazine.com1\UL
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p118
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Exquisitely elegant and filled with
hints of fresh fruit and blossom,
this classic champagne exudes
style and finesse. Aged for a
minimum of three years, its
mouth-watering taste makes
it the perfect anytime aperitif.
Crafted with care. Best enjoyed the same way.
www.lansonchampagne.com
@champagnelanson
