Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
The coast’s best-kept secrets
Dry Stone Wall
Centuries old stone walls
N°10 - complimentary copy
And Its Outskirts
Golden oldies caught on cam
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
A zesty editorial to unfold
Arrival & Getting Around
Discover what we 've uncovered
SOS! Have no fear, SIYP is here
Dalmatian Zagora 46
Run to the hills
City Basics 10
Dry Stone Wall 48
Keepn it real
Traditional form of construction
Croatia’s Secret Islands
Escape the crowds
Culture & Events
A pick 'n' list to brighten your stay
Treasure some leisure
We give you the bread 'n' butter of where to eat
Treat yourself or be treated
Priceless places and buys
The true meaning of “do not disturb”
City centre map
“How's that sweet tooth?”
All in a day
Piping hot tips
Coffee & Cakes
The top getaways
Are you ready to party?
Be introduced to some traditional ways of life from Dalmatian Zagora, see page 46, Photo by Dusina Ante Barbir, Vrgorac Tourist Board Archives
Split is a summer hit with thousands of tourists flocking to
this Adriatic seaside city.@InYourPocket
In recent years, the awakening of
newly opened restaurants, wine bars, events, exhibits, concerts and open air festivals have reinvigorated these ancient
city walls. Speaking of open air festivals, ‘Ultra’ is set to smash
all records with world class DJs hallowing electronic stages
for an entire week. Browse through our guide and within
Split Pulse discover what ‘Splićani’(locals) value as they give
away city secrets that only they know. The Restaurants section takes you on a culinary journey of top notch places
to wine and dine. You’ll see black and white photos that
reminisce to a different time and we’ve prepared a special
on ancient stone walls and traditional dry-wall construction
which dominates Mediterranean architecture today. See our
interview with Croatian
writer Olja Savičević Ivančević and
of course don’t forget the Shopping category with artistic
gifts for you and your family. Affordable Art too! A notable
mention goes to Split’s surroundings and the breath-taking
islands that ought
to win you over with their untouched
natural beauty. We wish you a super sizzler summer!
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
Maps Events Restaurants
Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing
Bačvice between two World Wars, by
Julije Mosettig. The photographs were
taken during the summertime between
Wars. The photos show
spent their time on Split’s
most famous beach Bačvice enjoying
life, friendships and love, more than
eighty years ago.
N°10 - complimentary copy
Dry Stone Wall
Centuries old stone walls
Vintage Split And
Golden oldies caught
Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić What’s going on?
Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja
Where’s the party?
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Roman Simić Bodrožić
Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Design Bojan - Haron Markičević
Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
Cover © Julije Mosettig, Bačvice
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić, Eli Gajinov
notice more reviews online:
Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps cop??city??.inyourpocket.com
yright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the
purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.
In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius,
212 29 76). Split
is not responsible for any information which might change after
Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.
4 Split In Your Pocket
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smartphone app: In Your Pocket City
Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked
venues and sights alongside essential
travel information, these city guides
have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places
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Arrival & Getting Around
The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and
the trip to Vis takes about two and a half hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a
drink or two.
Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the
islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take
cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line
Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online.
For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in
advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to
travelling.QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33,
, www.jadrolinija.hr. June 3rd July 1st Open 04:15 - 23:59. July 2nd - September 5th
Open 00:00 - 24:00.
Kapetan Luka, Krilo
Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via
Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet. Check sailing schedule here.
QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, ivana.tomic@
krilo.hr, www.krilo.hr. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Tue, Thu
06:00 - 16:00, Fri 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:30 - 20:00. J
Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition
from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to
see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those
are just the customs officers that work at the office located
in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates
around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least
four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the
building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during
their working hours. Calling home: There are two public
phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased
from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around
town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find
the information you need. Make a left out of the port and
a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you’ll reach the old town in about five
Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as
the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like
Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis.
For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island
you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something
like this: 33 - 60kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn.
Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also
strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little
6 Split In Your Pocket
SNAV agent runs the Split-Ancona ferry line.QD‑3, Gat
Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja.
com, www.msckrstarenja.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Blue Line International agent with Split-Ancona and HvarAncona ferry lines. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva).
QD‑3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. (+385-21) 35
25 33, [email protected]
, www.splittours.hr. Open
08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. A
Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you
need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open
00:00 - 24:00) 4kn can be found inside the station, along
with the domestic and international ticket windows and
an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers
a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office
operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the
window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage
point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn
left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate
of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you
pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the
street, the directions for getting around are the same as for
the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the
Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old
town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call
centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away
directly in front of the bus station.
Arrival & Getting Around
Main bus station
(Autobusni kolodvor Split)
If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination,
make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as
return tickets usually require you to travel with the same
company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be
travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus
will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can
affect the length of your trip.QJ‑3, Obala kneza Doma‑
goja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 80,
So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the
easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The
fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to
use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on
international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route
on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres
long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving
you of 174 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know
you’re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and
Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to
do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and
keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.
Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but
quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any
questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people
at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00.
Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find
a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also
be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an
exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the
main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling
home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand
(open according to flight times). There are public phones
in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet
point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second,
8 Split In Your Pocket
upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and
Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a
number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall.
Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Pleso prijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from
the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the
trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at
twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute
intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn oneway; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Pleso
prijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights
and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old
town for 30kn.
Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka
QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić,
tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22,
Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar,
the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round,
with charter flights organized only during the summer.
The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of
100 passengers or fewer.QVeško Polje, Gornji Humac,
tel. (+385-21) 55 97 11, [email protected]
airport-brac.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 20:00.
The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during
the station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The
lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As
it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn
will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a
right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the
way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of
the train station.
Main train station
Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect
to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb
takes about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on
a night train from Zagreb at 23:05 or a night train from
Split at 21:43, there’s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car and don’t feel
like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the
train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 101kn,
plus the price of a passenger ticket.QJ‑3, Obala kneza
Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85
25, [email protected]
Tourist Information Centre
QD‑3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9,
tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, [email protected]
www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00
Tourist Information Centre
QJ‑2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06,
Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses.
There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from
05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running
Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for each
line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be
purchased on the bus for 11kn or from Promet Split kiosks
near each bus stop for 9kn. If you’re trying to beat the system
and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and
you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered
by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the
city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you
can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates
from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Saturdays, and is closed on Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska
station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information
regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 99.
QE‑1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, info@
catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn
(Zone 4). Aside from zoned street parking, another option for
parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price
per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the
centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a
maximum 10kn charge for the first hour and 15kn per hour
thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock.
QD‑2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, parking@
There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 70 8211),
zone 2 (blue - 70 8212), zone 3 (green - 70 8213) and zone
4 (yellow - 70 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the
parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an
SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number
shown on the box (remember to include the international
dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes
before your hour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease or move your car.
As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you have
down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn’t heed
our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your ride has
been towed away by what we refer to in English as the, ahem,
tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider) to the car
impound at Pujanke bb (F-2), so you’ll need to shell out 750
- 1350kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards are accepted and
the office is open around the clock.Qtel. (+385-21) 37 68 48.
Fishermen from Milna
The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you
own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If you’re with
Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 20kn,
with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 3kn added per each
piece of luggage and 100kn per hour for waiting. There is no
additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of
most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry
port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.
There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 - 5kn/
hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is
payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 - 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 and
in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price.
However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have one you might
Bathers on the beach Banj in Supetar
The foundation “ISLAND BRAČ - somewhere between the sea and the stars” Archives
Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions,
nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway
to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and
route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia
and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which
will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65
(local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the
A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit
Arrival & Getting Around
Croatia’s Secret Islands
As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, 2013 there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For
other non-member states we recommend you to follow
info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.
Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café
culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits
or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces
including restaurants where it has never been easy to find
a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is
still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car
parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at
least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new
buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can
expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to
most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your
arrival as accessible as possible.
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.
There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in
the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the
amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public
toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good condition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the
Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuška little bay area (H3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street
(J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are
around 4kn or 0.50€.
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in
urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/
ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As
they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
10 Split In Your Pocket
Since Croatia has become a new member of the European
Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully
compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does
that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also.
Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other
cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa
for multiple entries because of the border crossing through
Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the
aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
When things go wrong
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly
lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep
your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER
or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in
case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you
will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER
is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva 1 (E-3) where
everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for
accidents on the sea call 195.
This QR code contains the website address,
split for Split In Your Pocket: and a user having a camera phone equipped with the
correct reader software can scan this image of the QR Code causing the phone’s
browser to launch and redirect to the programmed URL. Save
the image and print it out any way you want.
Photo by Marša Gajinov
Despite the popularity of Croatia’s coast with tourists there
are still plenty of places which have remained sheltered
from the tides of tourists. Here is a selection of island hideaways where you can find your own personal paradise.
Tiny Susak makes up for it slack of size with personality. The
local dialect is a curious mix of archaic Croatian blended
with vocabulary from Italian, French and German. Not even
visitors from other parts of Croatia can decipher it.
In 1912 an Austrian doctor deemed Susak ideal for convalescing children. A hotel was designed by a Viennese
architect and built in the Bok bay, but with the First
World War tourism halted and never really picked up
again. Which means that the island remains utterly unspoilt.
Susak is unusual among Croatian islands in being covered with sand which is held firmly in place by reeds
planted by farmers to prevent erosion. There are no
roads, only sandy paths – you can pretty much go barefoot! The island is surprisingly fertile and was once well
known for its wine, an industry which is slowly being
revived. With no cars and those shallow sandy bays it’s
a paradise for families with small children. There are no
hotels, but you can rent a room or private apartment.
Come summer you’ll find yourself joined by a host of
Americans, returning emigrants and their offspring.
Pensioners returning to live out their days on the island
are lending a curious Transatlantic touch to the architecture. Other visitors include women who come to bury
themselves in the sand at Bok and Spiaza bays, reputed
to restore fertility.
Susak island culture includes possibly the only folk costume to feature a colourful mini ra-ra skirt. Definitely
one of the more intriguing Croatian islands!
With no cars and just one settlement, Silba is enjoyed
by escapists whoneed a little culture along with their
days of relaxation. Silba features six lovely churches and
chapels, and romantic villas built by wealthy sea captains and ship owners. Since the island was vulnerable
to pirate attacks you’ll find a 16th century castle, while
a hexagonal watchtower, the Toreta, a slender edifice
with a spiral staircase tracing round the outside, testifies to the enduring love of a roving sailor for his love
Since the hedonistic 1970s Silba has had a loyal base
of visitors from Croatia’s alternative cultural scene, so
you’ll happen across cute boutiques and low-key performances. There’s a gallery of sculpture by Marija UjevićGaletović, a contemporary artist who does fantastic
things with the human form.
Silba’s pristine beaches recall the island’s silvery name
with shimmering shingle beaches and shallow coves
ideal for children. The waters are an unusually vivid turquoise colour set off by the dark green vegetation.
Prvić is perfectly placed for exploring Šibenik, the Kornati National Park, neighbouring islands such as Zlarin
and Kaprije and the Krka and Plitvice National Parks inland.
Prvić is small and perfectly formed, with two settlements and no cars. Prvić Luka’s pretty waterfront features a striking onion-domed church. There are lovely
bathing spots with views over the surrounding islands
and the mountains on the coast. Among the children
who have been lucky to spend their summers here was
Faust Vrančić, known as the Croatian Leonardo da Vinci.
A linguist, historian, mathematician and physicist, he
was the inventor of the parachute and creator of the first
Croatian dictionary. You can see models of his inventions
in the local museum.
Just opposite the port of Split, Šolta is super easy to
get to, but for some unfathomable reason it has been
almost completely overlooked by tourists. All the better for people looking for an authentic Dalmatian refuge from the passage of time. Legend has it that Illyrian
Queen Teuta built her palace on the hillside at Senjska
cove on the south side of the island. Roman Emperor Diocletian of Split chose Nečujam to build fish farms. More
Croatia’s Secret Islands
recently, oligarchs and millionaires have been seeking
refuge in a 16th century waterside castle at Maslinica
that has been transformed into a breathtakingly beautiful hotel, the Martinis Marchi, with its own beautiful
little marina (www.martinis-marchi.com).
Wine lovers should try Šolta’s local variety Dobričić,
thought to be a forebear of Zinfandel and rated highly
by experts. Don’t neglect to visit the villages in the interior - the narrow stone streets basking in the sun are
full of atmosphere. In Grohote you’ll find a gallery with
a permanent exhibition of work by famous artists that
were born in Šolta.
The Elafiti Islands
The Elafiti islands are a short boat trip away from Dubrovnik, meaning you can easily enjoy the delights of
island life and hop over to the city when you fancy. Each
island is a little treasure. Wealthy Dubrovnik families of
times past had their summer homes here, lending the
islands echoes of the Renaissance.
The ferry’s first port of call is a popular spot for day trippers from Dubrovnik and as such is rather busier than its
neighbours. Two hamlets, Gornje Čelo and Donje Čelo
each have sandy beaches. The island is very green, with
abundant olives, oranges and figs. Lazing on the beaches
in Porat and Saplun in the evening you have a free ticket
to open air concerts in Dubrovnik just over the water!
For a tiny island Lopud has a wealth of churches, monasteries and villas. A lovely spot to linger is Mayneri park
right on the waterfront, somewhat unkempt but boasting fine views, planting and statuary. Nearby you’ll find
the Thyssen-Bornemisza art pavilion where the installation Your Black Horizon by Olafur Eliasson and David
Adjaye is housed. Architecture buffs might like to explore (with caution) the disused modernist Grand Hotel. Lopud has one of the best sandy beaches in Croatia
at Sunj bay. A handful of lovely stone villas have been
turned into small hotels with excellent accommodation
and good restaurants.
Croatia’s Secret Islands
Gifts for Hungry
One of the pleasures of Croatia is natural, tasty food. So
what better gift for those back home than something to
Ground Wild Fennel
The rocky plains of Dalmatia are covered in the grey stems
and yellow blooms of wild fennel. Mrs Marica Marasović
from the island of Vis sells dried and ground fennel for
flavouring soups, salads, stews and dressings. Contact
(+385-) 91 588 84 09, [email protected]
A tasty twist on Italian grissini, these ones from the island
of Silba are enriched with pumpkin, sunflower and sesame
seeds, with chilli, caraway, truffle or anchovy. Perfect with
a nice cold beer or cocktail. Pick them up in Zadar from
Ivan Motušić, tel. (+385-) 99 771 69 98.
Olive Leaf Tea
Olive leaf tea is believed to be rich in antioxidants, thus
supporting a healthy heart and immune system. It’s a
traditional drink from the Croatian islands which you can
pick up in Paška sirana cheese shops around the country or
on the island of Pag in Vrtovi Lunjskih maslina, Lunj. Open
Mon - Fri 08:00 - 15:00.
The Captain’s Cookies
Unique almond cookies have been made for centuries on
the Peljesac peninsula, baked to see off sea captains on
their voyages. You can pick up a gift-wrapped package at
the Croccantino cake shop at Obala pomoraca 30, Orebić
(Open 07:00 - 24:00), and in local Antunović bakeries.
Contact: [email protected]
, tel. (+385-) 98 165
07 77 Marija Antunović.
Pag and Brač Island Cheese
Pag island is synonymous with good cheese in Croatia,
with two factories supplying great cheese to the whole
country. Look out for the Paška sirarna and Gligora
Brač island cheese is exclusively sold locally. It’s not easy
to get hold of a round of cheese as it’s a natural seasonal
product made in small quantities. But it is well worth the
effort. Try the Kuzmanić family, Put Varoša 18, Supetar,
Brač, [email protected]
, tel. (+385-21) 63 04 98,
(+385-) 91 594 52 79.
The most distant of the three populated Elafiti Islands,
you can wander Šipan’s shoreline and hardly meet a
soul. Šipan boasts 36 churches and chapels and 42 historic summer villas. With two settlements this island has
a bus service! Suđurađ is where the ferry arrives, while
Šipanska Luka (Port of Šipan), in a pleasing twist, has no
ferry service. Apart from stumbling over fascinating old
buildings, the pleasures of an island walk include taking
in olive and fig, carob and vine… The island has a scattering
of pleasant smaller hotels and decent restaurants.
Lumblija is a sweet from Korčula island made from wine
must, olive oil, almonds, dried fruit and spices. It was apparently the recipe of a French soldier who presented
a cake to his island beloved on his departure with the
words “n’oubliez” (“don’t forget!”). This was Croatianised
as lumblija, and the recipe has lived on ever since. You can
order a cake from Mrs Vlašić, Obala 2, Vela Luka, Korčula,
, tel. (+385-) 98 182 84 07.
12 Split In Your Pocket
Krk Island Pršut
To make great cured ham you need a brisk north wind
laced with plenty of salt and herbs, which is why generations of Krk islanders have prepared their own pršut. This is
a product that varies depending on the environment and
the recipe, so it’s different wherever you go. Try Krk pršut
at the Žužić butcher’s shop, Zagrebačka bb, Krk, tel. (+38551) 22 21 38 (Open Jun/Sep 07:00 - 20:00, Jul-Aug 07:00
- 21:00) or at Kuća krčkog pršuta at Bok od Brozića 40, Vrh,
Krk, tel. (+385-51) 68 60 98 (Open Jun/Sep 12:00 - 22:00,
Jul-Aug 12:00 - 23:00).
Real foodies these days choose from a selection of salts as
they cook. A new one to try is cvijet soli (fleur de sel) from
Nin’s Roman salt pans. Fleur de sel is made of soft, moist
flakes harvested gently from the water’s surface. Delicious
sprinkled on fine foods, the crystals are rich in minerals
and created in an ecologically pristine environment. Pick
up a box in at the Solane Nin museum shop, Ilirska cesta 7,
Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 40 21 (Open 07:00 - 20:00) or selected
shops nationwide. www.solananin.hr
One of the best comfort foods from Croatian island cuisine
is goulash served with home-made pasta such as makaruni
na iglu, pasta wrapped around a skewer to produce an slender tube. Pick up some in the Mahulja bakery, Gundulićeva
4, Novalja, Pag island (Open 06:00 - 12:00), tel. (+385-53) 66
36 57, or during the summer at mobile bakeries in Novalja,
Mandra and Stara Novalja (Open 07:00 - 19:00).
Deck Your Home With
Wool Slippers from Cres Island
Natural felted wool slippers make a practical and tasteful
gift from Cres, where the bleating of sheep hangs in the
herb-scented air. Each pair of slippers crafted by the Ruta
Society is unique: muted or zanily colourful, the choice is
yours. Your purchase helps promote local crafts and environmental protection. Contact Udruga Ruta, Zazid 4a,
Cres, tel. (+385-) 098 313 029, [email protected]
Pag, Lepoglava and hvar Lace
The islands of Pag and Hvar and the inland town of Lepoglava north of Zagreb each have their own tradition of
lacemaking. Pag lace is made with needles alone. A certain
visual austerity and geometricism lends an unexpected
modernity – a framed piece of lace makes an authentic
yet chic decoration. Lepoglava and Hvar lace is made on
bobbins, Hvar lace from thread derived from local agave
plants. Pick up Pag lace at the Pag Lace Gallery, Trg Petra
Krešimira IV, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 60 08 30, grad[email protected]
, www.pag.hr. Open: Until June 20th 09:30 - 12:00
and by request. June 20th - September 20th Open 09:30
- 12:00, 20:00 - 22:30.
Heritage hotel - Restaurant - Marina - Yacht charter
A sustainable souvenir with a provenance is a rug made
using traditional island techniques from remnants of fabric from manufacturing folk costumes. These rugs can be
used to protect your table or can be scattered on the floor.
Contact the Lipa folk costume workshop on Prvić island
at Ulica IX – 3, Prvić Šepurine, tel. (+385-) 098 964 65 84,
. Alternatively, if you’re in Šibenik
visit the Croatian Island Products Shop at Medulićev trg, or
the souvenir shop at the Barone fortress.
Stone Pestle and Mortar
Cool, white and reassuringly heavy in your hand, there’s a
timeless elegance to Brač stone. What better choice for a
piece to take home than a pestle and mortar? They look
good, and they’re handy for crushing herbs and grinding spices. You can find them in the Dražen Jakšić’s L&D
workshop at Put varoša 3, Supetar, Brač, tel. (+385-) 098
907 04 68, [email protected]
, also in Split in the
basement of Diocletian’s palace or at a stall in the centre
of Korčula town.
A kunjska spara is a decorative circular cushion with a hole
in the middle. Intriguing, you might say. Indeed! They
were used to cushion the loads that women used to (and
still do) carry on their heads on their return home from
the fields. You can find them on Pašman island, contact
Marija Grdaš, Put studenca 27 Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 53 45,
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
at times points out the absurdity of today; and as for the
viewer, a chance to compare and reflect.QI‑2, Galić Art
Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr.
amenities made for man; a highly debated issue in our
world today.QI/J‑3, The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace,
20.06 Monday - 01.07 Friday
Tihomir Matijević - Transheroica
or Sculptor Seeks a Hero
Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No it’s a group of Croatian politicians adorned in superhero like outfits ready to always
save the nation from eventual threat.
Matijević created these 4 impressive statues up to 6 metres high and won an award at the 11th Croatian Sculpture Triennial, 2012. Head to the Diocletian Palace’s Cellars for some superhero irony and action!QI/J‑3, The
cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, www.hulu-split.hr.
14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday
Đuro Seder - Retrospective exhibition
Six decades of commitment to art and to painting in
particular, Seder is known for his brush dynamism and
energy colours. He used expressionism and symbolism
with both extraordinary freedom and clarity, utilising his
experience that went beyond the limitations of the medium. Split also has the right and obligation to learn more
about his exceptional art work.QD‑3, The Institute for
Scientific and Artistic Work in Split, Palača Milesi, Trg
braće Radić 7, www.galerija-kula.hr.
JULY - SEPTEMBER
Artists at Meštrović - Kažimir Hraste
The cycle of artists at the Meštrović Gallery continues
with sculptor Kažimir Hraste. He is one of the founders
of the Art Academy in Split and has taken part in over
100 exhibitions. Hraste is the author of numerous public monuments, busts and sculptures around Croatia
and has received several national awards.
Inspired by the call to be exhibited alongside Meštrović’s
works, see this special part of his opus, worth every
notice!QB‑3, Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović
Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac, Šetalište Ivana
Meštrovića 46/39, www.mestrovic.hr.
Boris Bućan (Croatian Academic photographer, painter and graphic designer), 29th Split Summer Festival, HNK Split, 1983, Screen print, MSU Archives
26.04 Tuesday - 26.09 Monday
The Iron People on Wooden Ships
This exhibition was opened on the 150th anniversary
of the Battle of Vis, marking one of the most significant
battles in the Adriatic Sea and is deeply etched in the
memory of Croats. In July 1866, an Italian fleet led by Admiral Carlo Pellion attacked Vis, hoping to win this important strategic point; the heroism of the then Austrian fleet
mostly filled with Croats defeated their better armed opponents. The exhibit details the true heroes of the battle,
how it reawakened a sense of Croatian identity, original
artefacts and more.QIssa Archaeological Collection,
Viški boj 12, Vis; Croatian Maritime Museum Split,
Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), www.hpms.hr.
05.05 Thursday - 31.08 Wednesday
Ship logbooks and
documents from the holdings
of the Croatian Maritime Museum
Set sail and see valuable marine documentary material
and original printed ship manuscripts; log books and diaries which are among the Museum’s oldest manuscripts,
and ship documents - lists of crews, books of supplies,
14 Split In Your Pocket
privileges, certificates and more. The contents will vary
(paintings, books, charts, ship models, marine items, uniforms...) and date from the 18th to 20th century.QK‑2,
Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe
01.07 Friday - 10.08 Wednesday
Dan Pjerovschi - The Split Drawing
This Romanian artist gathers inspiration on site by
touring a city, interviewing its people, exploring mainstream media, city buildings, installations, and combines these to form the core of his artwork. Work that
he deems as intellectual graffiti, almost cartoonish /
art-brut, yet drawings with an artistic message and tendency for humour.QJ‑2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava
17.05 Tuesday - 17.06 Friday
Julião Sarmento - As Good As It Gets
A much sought after artist who will present his works at
three venues and all at the same time. Sarmento deliberates his themes via different media in the form of fine art,
sculpture, video and photos, fusing literature and cinema.
The clichéd title of the exhibit is in direct contrast to the
visual elements shown on screen with the ‘body’ used as
a primary subject.QKula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10;
The Institute for Scientific and Artistic Work in Split,
Palača Milesi, Trg braće Radić 7; Museum of Fine Arts,
Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, www.galerija-kula.hr.
04.07 Monday - 18.07 Monday
Halbart Vilim - Flying Boats
Halbart presents a cycle of surreal sculptures with a
focus on ship building, a once known golden treasure
in Croatia and now viewed as a dying trade, a tradition
that capitalism has scrunched and thrown into the sea,
an identity once proud, now fallen.
Most evident in his work is the recycling, transformation and reinterpretation of discarded materials from
shipyards.QI‑2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3,
16.06 Thursday - 01.07 Friday
Vedran Ivanković –
Pillars of Croatian Society
Take a look at Croatian society from the perspective of
Vedran Ivanković with his humour and cynicism. He critiques and questions, he outlines distorted values and
04.07 Monday - 15.07 Friday
Nicolo Sertorio - Once We Were Here
An international exhibition by this American artist and
photographer set in the Diocletian Cellars. Sertorio,
who is of Italian origin, reveals his photographs which
speak of the relationship of man with nature and urban
SPLIT FILM FESTIVAL
10.09 Saturday - 18.09 Sunday
Split Film Festival - International
Festival of New Film 2016
Film for avid fans, film with high demands! This
festival promotes new, creative, personal, experimental, radical and subversive works, styles and
genres, commonly produced outside the commercialised mainstream, but of excellent standard and
achievement. It highly promotes Croatian film but
also gives strong regard to international feature
and short film, paying attention to directors who
explore the aesthetic potential of film.
According to track record, several producers and
directors who have appeared here in the past and
were lesser known have gone onto bigger and
brighter things. A stepping stone to glory! Two international juries will be given the arduous task of
choosing the winners.
Retrospectives, workshops, lectures, latest features
in newmedia and presentations by leading experts
always add value and a new dimension to visitors
and presenters alike. 2016 is the 21st edition of
the event, the oldest international film and media
manifestation in Croatia as such. It’s a great meeting
point to network with people in the industry and to
form future projects and relations. The event will be
held across three city venues.QKaraman Cinema,
Ilićev prolaz 3; Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, Dioklecijan‑
ova 7; Bačvice Cinema, Preradovićevo šetalište 6,
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
01.08 Monday - 12.08 Friday
HDLU Osijek - The Edge of Painting or
In August 2016, HDLU Osijek will introduce to the Split
audience their multimedia project in which their artists
explore the concept of experimental art and thus abolish the conventional boundaries between painting and
new media through installations, objects, paintings and
various forms of new media itself.QI/J‑3, The cellars of
Diocletian’s Palace, www.hulu-split.hr.
Esma Redžepova, A Sustipan Night’s Dream Archives
Ultra Europe Archives
03.06 Friday - 11.06 Saturday
Split Mediterranean Film Festival
For nine year straight, this festival of full-length and short
film from the Mediterranean region has established itself as
one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you consider
that screenings take place on the beach with the summer
breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine trees, how
could it not? Bring a blanket!QBačvice Summer Cinema
(Preradovićevo šetalište 6), Kinoteka Zlatna vrata (Diok‑
lecijanova 7) and Split Art Gallery (Ulica kralja Tomislava
17.06 Friday - 17.07 Sunday
Revija Urbane Kulture – Evo Ruke!
During the peak season and for one entire month, head
to Đardin at the Strossmayerov perivoj for a sense of urban music and culture. From pop and hip-hop to jazz and
other genres, a plethora of top Croatian musicians and performers will deliver their melancholy / hypnotic / bumpy
/groovy sounds and feel to the streets.QJ‑2, Đardin Strossmayer Park, www.revija-urbane-kulture.com.
Starts at 21:00 daily.
20.07 Wednesday - 02.08 Tuesday
Vanja Pagar - Noveslike
Academic painter Vanja Pagar will present his project
‘Noveslike’. In this cycle, the artist’s view of easel painting can be seen, this time in the form of abstract expressionism. Pagar investigates and nullifies the boundaries
of classical fine art and new media through multimedia
installations, objects and actions.QI‑2, Galić Art Salon,
Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr.
05.07 Tuesday - 06.07 Wednesday
A Sustipan Night’s Dream
Sustipan Park will for the fifth year in a row be the location for this exclusive event. Organisers literally go all out
to recreate and evoke the atmosphere of Shakespeare’s
‘Midnight Summer Dream’. Dance under the stars in two
nights of hedonism with Esma Redžepova and The Frajle.
QC‑3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com. Concerts
start at 21:30.
22.07 Friday - 05.08 Friday
Friends of the Sea – The Blue Hour
For the seventh year running this moving exhibition is
destined for 12 Croatian cities and is intended to attract
over one million visitors this summer. It’s a compilation of 60 large-format photographs taken during the
‘blue hour’ i.e. early evening after sunset or early in the
morning, just before dawn. Breath-taking scenes of the
Adriatic are set to inspire, admire, and unearth a desire
of love and respect for one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world. The works have been selected by the
expert team of the festival ‘Rovinj-Photodays’.Qwww.
14.07 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday
The 62nd Split Summer Festival
A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and
music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of
Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical,
theatre and dance performances from Croatia and abroad.
QVarious locations across Split, www.splitsko-ljeto.hr.
16 Split In Your Pocket
14.07 Thursday - 20.07 Wednesday
Ultra Europe Festival
Ohh yeah! The mighty summer dance spectacle just gets
bigger and bigger with a week of music to party to all night
long. It actually starts on the 14th with the Opening Party
and of course the three day main event is at Split’s Poljud
Stadium, things don’t stop there with after party events.
Yep, it’s island hopping with the ‘Ultra Regatta’ on the
island of Brač on the 18th, then the ‘Ultra Beach Party’ on
the island of Hvar on the 19th, and the ‘Ultra Resistance
Closing Party’ on the island of Vis on the 20th.QC‑1/2,
Giraffe Palm Beach House, Poljud Stadium (Resis‑
tance Opening Party and 3 days of Festival); Zlatni
Rat Beach, Bol, Brač (Ultra Regatta); Hotel Amfora
Grand Beach Resort, Hvar (Ultra Beach); Fort George,
Vis (Resistance Closing Party), www.ultraeurope.com.
Tickets 225 - 1500kn.
21.07 Thursday - 23.07 Saturday
Split Blues Festival
Who’s got the blues! Split of course, ooze to the sound
of blues in one of the largest regional festivals of this
genre. As always, the event has a high level of production and attracts some of the best Croatian and international musicians. Free admission!QD‑3, Riva, www.
Iron Maiden – The Book of Souls
Metal mania hits Split again this summer with one of the
legends of British Metal appearing in Croatia for the umpteenth time. Their legion of fans will always be in good
voice as the mighty Bruce Dickinson pounds out hits from
their new album and of course classics. A surprise is prepared for visual effects, only 11,000 tickets available and
will be snapped up ASAP!QC‑1, Spaladium Arena, Zrins‑
ko Frankopanska 211, www.spaladiumarena.hr. Concert
starts at 19:30. Tickets 290 - 430kn.
04.08 Thursday - 06.08 Saturday
Split Beach Festival
If last year’s edition is anything to go by, than this is one
bop till you drop spectacular music event. Organisers
have announced new even better musical surprises of
electronic music and related genres for 2016, and when
the sun dawns and the starry sky above Split’s Bačvice
Beach begins to shine, everyone is sure to find their ideal
act to watch and party to.QD‑3, Bačvice Beach, www.
23.06 Thursday - 25.06 Saturday
Cultural Festival Imena/Bol
If on the island of Brač and in the town of Bol in particular, pronounced as ‘bawl’, then become a true ‘Bročanin
or Bročanka’ by attending ‘brunch’ or bolska marenda
Trudna Teća followed by literary promotions, exhibitions, debates and concerts. A driving force of the event
is the success of the book ‘Bračka marenda’ which is a
gastro-cultural guide of the island written in both Croatian and English.QBol, Brač island, www.facebook.com/
6th Ethno Festival
The town of Marina is 11km from Trogir, and in its
northern village of Blizna Donja the townsfolk put on a
show of ethno culture, music and heritage.
See the beauty of local costume that trace back to old
times in which people still wear today on special occasions, folklore songs and dances, and ojkanje which
is an ancient form of singing which now placed on
the UNESCO heritage list. It isn’t yodelling, but men
who repeat specific sounds...QBlizna Donja, Marina,
22.07 Friday - 24.07 Sunday
Brand new to the summer calendar, welcome to Šolta,
an island known for its ‘owl’ species which fittingly
titles the festival! Only 30 min by catamaran from Split,
this 3 day event is a combo of electronic underground
house music and natural island beauty. It’s in a bay
called Stomorska and includes beach bar Africa and
party boat St. Damian (120 capacity). Transportation
and accommodation is all organised for you!QŠolta,
www.owlfestivalcro.com. Tickets 90 - 350kn.
22.07 Friday - 23.07 Saturday
S.A.R.S. – Sinj Amateur Rock Meetup
The old town of Sinj in the Dalmatian hinterland is the
setting for an annual festival of alternative culture and
promotes amateur rock bands from entire Croatia.
Due to its popularity, it has grown into something much
bigger with popular mainstream Croatian acts also performing. Side sparkles include book nights, film screenings and workshops that accompany the festival. Stay
tuned for line up details.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.
Kinoteka Zlatna vrata
04.07 Monday - 30.07 Saturday
This isn’t your everyday cinema; ‘Zlatna vrata’ or
‘Golden Door’ is one of the most beautiful cinemas in
Croatia which is housed in the heart of the historical
core of Split. The month of July offers guests a deeper
insight into Croatian film with some of the best productions made over the last few years that have had
both national and international success. All films have
English subtitles and the exact schedule can be found
at web site.
The Priest’s Children, 2013, Vinko Brešan, 93 min
The High Sun, 2015, Dalibor Matanić, 123 min
What is a Man without a Moustache? 2005, Hrvoje
Hribar, 109 min
These Are the Rules, 2014, Ognjen Sviličić, 72 min
Gangster of Love, 2013, Nebojša Slijepčević, 75 minQJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 36 15 24,
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
The Sinjska Alka is a famous equestrian competition held in
Sinj every first Sunday in the month of August. Since 1715, it
has been held to commemorate the victory over the Ottoman Turks. The horseman must aim their lances at a hanging metal ring, called an alka, at full gallop. Interestingly,
only men who were born in the Sinjska Krajina, the city of
Sinj or one of the surrounding villages, can take part in the
competition. Proudly, in 2010, it was written in UNESCO’s
Intangible Cultural Heritage list.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.
07.08 Sunday - 11.08 Thursday
The Legend of Miljenko and Dobrila
A tale of forbidden love! Croatia’s true and tragic counterpart to Romeo and Juliet is reinvigorated in the town of
Kaštela, home to Miljenko and Dobrila. The entire town
and its people transport back into the 17th century, see
re-enactments of the legendary tale where family dispute
stands in the way of love, ending in death.QKaštela, www.
Beaa de Visser Blowup, Split Film Festival Archives
22.07 Friday - 23.07 Saturday
World Music Festival Ethnoambient
The spirit of this event is global whilst it firmly remains local.
This yearly gathering truly defines how diverse world music
really is. It presents musicians who get their inspiration in
combining traditional and contemporary music from their
countries of origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with
this musical celebration of cultural differences! Hear the
sounds of Pučki pivači Gospe od Otoka, Lidija Bajuk Quartet, Seckou Keita, Cinkuši, Dunja Knebl and Kololira, Tamara
Obrovac Transhistria Ensemble and Kries.QGradina, Solin,
Delmates vs Romans Football Match
The idea of a football match between the Delmates (Illyrians) and the Romans is based on historical facts related to
the tombstone of Gaius Laberius. It promotes the theory
about the origins of football in this area and is in fact a theatrical performance of comic character, played by invented
rules which are inspired by the spirit of ancient times. QSinj,
04.08 Thursday - 06.08 Saturday
‘Get down, get down and move it all around’ to some soul,
boogie, and hip hop music. Featuring DJ Vadim accompanied by DJ The Reflex, Eddy Ramich, Tomo Ricov, Jakir’s, Banana Zvuk and many more this party should not be missed.
QSupetar, Brač, www.voisafestival.com. Afternoon
programme 15:00 - 21:00, evening programme 22:00 05:00. Tickets 60 - 160kn.
18 Split In Your Pocket
09.08 Tuesday - 14.08 Sunday
We can only speak in superlatives when it comes to Jeličić’s
love for his birthplace Split; so much so that his paintings,
drawing, graphics, photography and mosaics are almost entirely inspired by the Mediterranean and distinctive coastal
vistas of cities including Trogir and Dubrovnik. His works
have won awards and are permanent in some public spaces.
QAtrium of Trogir City Museum, Gradska vrata 4, Trogir,
10.08 Wednesday - 11.08 Thursday
Named after a famous rock in the town of Brela and pronounced as ‘shakan’, the festival is a magnet for lovers of
music with local and international artists performing close
to the sea in an idyllic setting. So far the repertoire includes
the Lovely Quinces, Sara Renar, JR August, Igor Duraković,
Giant Sand, Mort, Spiridon, Cloud 68 and there’s more to
come.QPlateau in front of Hotel Soline, Brela.
11.08 Thursday - 13.08 Saturday
Brač Film Festival
As soon as you jump off the ferry and onto the beautiful
island of Brač, you’re in Supetar, home to this international
film festival which consists of a main and side programme.
The main programme displays feature-length and short
films with an award given to the latter as voted by the public.
11.08 Thursday - 13.08 Saturday
Reach to the sky, see the sea, the starry night and dance under the moonlight. Welcome to the 4th edition of this grand
electronic music festival, headliners include Jeff Mills, Josh
Wink, John Heckle and The Story Tellers.QKamerlengo
Fortress, Trogir, www.moondancefest.com.
Olja Savičević Ivančević, Photo by Andrija Zelmanovic
Split’s literature scene
An interview with Olja Savičević Ivančević
by Roman Simić Bodrožić
The world of literature has always had its fair share of greats
both present and past and in this modern age, there has
never been more of a need for great literature and material that grasps the reader. IYP proudly introduces you to
a star, and we aren’t talking show biz, but rather a star in
literature. Olja Savičević Ivančević (OSI) is a shining light
in contemporary Croatian literature at present, and judging by articles published in the Irish Times, the Guardian or
DieZeitu... her books have been noted not only in Croatia
but by the international literary audience. This lady from
Split (born 1974), an award-winning poet and novelist, who
with her novel ‘Adios, Cowboy’, which is an offset spaghetti Western perched in the wild and set around Split’s
surroundings, has won both recognition and awards with
this powerful story of Dalmatia that many are not aware of
(and could certainly not learn of whilst being on holiday).
Roman: For starters, in your first novel, you freed Dalmatia of a fair portion of its general landmarks; some
would even say that you freed it of something that
people love most about Split and why they would
even visit it at all. What was it like to wrestle the truth
of so many songs, tourist guides and so many stereotypes, some of which, as usual, are accurate?
Olja: I hope that I somewhat evoked that beauty that
truly exists, yet I also described the hidden side of the
story. I believe that there are enough people from foreign countries around who are interested in learning
how people live here.
Roman: Why a Western, and in particular why a spaghetti Western? True, the path has been paved by the
cameramen of the already mythical German series
about Winnetou which was recorded decades ago,
but you have shown that a Western style life has always existed in Dalmatia and is very much still alive
Olja: In fact, the wild south-east does exist here, and Westerns as a genre have imposed themselves quite naturally
on their own. Spaghetti westerns or Italo-westerns are a
Mediterranean product with films that were mostly recorded in Spain and primarily by Italians. There is also a
sub-genre of the classic spaghetti Western which is called
the Eastern, and they were recorded in countries of Eastern Europe. They were an important part of my childhood
and I played around following the rules of the genre whilst
writing a contemporary story of Dalmatia, a story primarily
about women and about lost childhood heroes.
Roman: The place where your novel is set is located
only twenty kilometres from Split yet appears to
be thousands of light years away from the city, as if
it were an island. But what of the real islands? You
wrote about them also, as in the recently awarded
piece for children - you are happy whilst dwelling on
them, exploring them. They are some kind of periphSummer 2016
Culture & Events
erals where life is totally different and far from the
idyllic life when they are not right before our eyes?
Olja: The place that I described is partly invented, and partly inspired by Kašteli, Vranjice... these are places in the vicinity of Split, which in some way, at least in their old towns,
are still reminiscent of the island towns.
I fell in love with the islands through sailing as I have sailed
from a young age, sailing has been my doorway to seeing
most of the bays in the Adriatic Sea. A desire to return again
and again to these places and discover the new ones is one
of my most enduring and powerful emotional experiences,
whilst in winter I dream about sailing. I have a small boat
that is also my home and adventure at sea.
Roman: Which one of our islands do you feel to be
yours and why?
Olja: Korčula is my island as I know it very well and I am
connected to Korčula through my family ties. It is there that
I spend my summers, but I also visit in winter and I know
the harsher side of the island, its solitude and isolation. That
is what I wrote about.
Roman: Your new novel which is coming out soon
touches on your central topic, the city of Split. What
kind of a city is Split? How would you describe it to a
Olja: The new novel ‘Singer in the Night’ describes one
specific part of Split, the settlement of large buildings and
skyscrapers that were built in socialism. It was an attempt
to make urban city planning tailored to fit the people, to
respect public space that nowadays no longer exists. That
part of Split has not yet been touched by the raging transitional capitalism that poses as a threat to them. I think
districts such as Split 3, Trstenik, Mertojak, Spinut and others in today’s time are urban centres of the city. I am not
saying this because I feel some nostalgia, I was not raised in
those districts, but one must learn from such kind of urban
planning for it shows concern and love for the city, which is
opposite to the grapples that prevail today.
Photo Club Split
When a picture says a thousand words, when a photographer catches a moment in time that leaves a lasting memory, this is the entire purpose of Split’s Photo
Club. People passionate about photography, playing
with it, manipulating, exploring… Opened in 1911 and
has since stood the test of time. This summer will bring
together several well-known Croatian photographer’s
on a monthly basis; In June, Fjodor Klarić presents his
exhibit ‘Hajduk Supporters – The twelfth player’, July
sees Stephan Lupino exemplify his all-round passion
for photography whilst Goran Leš gives us a birds eye
view of Split and the Adriatic.QI‑2, Marmontova 5,
tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, [email protected]
fotoklubsplit.hr. Open 10:30 - 12:30 and 18:30 - 22:00,
Sat 10:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
20 Split In Your Pocket
Cineplexx City Center one Split
QF‑2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 65 11 11, www.
QD‑2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel. (+385-)
060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr.
We asked locals - who live or work in Split
- to give us a few tips on how to enrich
your stay in this city and make it that bit
QI‑2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58 33, www.
Open Cinema Bačvice (Ljetno kino
QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34
86 76, www.ekran.hr. Open July, August.
Roman: My impression as an occasional visitor to
Split is that it has greatly changed in recent years,
even more so than other Dalmatian towns. You live in
Split: is this observation true? And if so, what it is like
now? What are the pros and cons?
Olja: Split has become a favoured tourist destination. On
the plus side the city is much more stylish and neater.
The minus is that because of the building of new apartments, the old parts of the city are dying and the true
appeal of Split lies exactly in the authenticity of everyday
life. This is a city of common folk and by losing the traces
of its ordinary life, it will lose its best part and that is what
makes it more interesting to tourists than other cities.
Roman: Which three places in Split mean the most
to Olja, the writer?
Olja: Marjan and Spinut where I live - my boat is also in
the small Spinut harbour; it’s the folk, the fishermen’s
‘old districts’ of Matejuška and Varoš since I used to pass
through them every day for fifteen years and they remind me of all those small towns that people like; the
market and fish market - the tastes, the smell, the loudness, the bustle, the dynamics of it all.
Roman: I know you love to travel, but how do you
travel? Which means of transportation do you use,
which books do you read, with whom and where do
Olja: I like to travel by boat or car, so I have freedom of
movement whenever needed and in whatever direction
I choose to go.
Most often I travel with my family or other writers (when
we go to festivals). I also love big cities and as I am getting older, I am becoming increasingly attracted to exploring nature, drifting away from the large residential
areas. It is interesting that whilst at home I more often
read poetry and short fiction, whereas whilst traveling
and especially on board, I love to read big novels, and
Financial Manager at Affidea Company
SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Daniel: Recently it’s been “Dvor”. It’s a newly opened
cafe-restaurant at a beautiful location in Firule bay. It’s a
great place to have fun drinking a cup of coffee or enjoying any traditional specialties. I prefer drinking my coffee
before noon when during the calming morning you can
feel the relaxed atmosphere of the Mediterranean.
SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?
Daniel: Definitely the southern side of Marjan. Near St. Jerome’s church built in the second half of the 15th century
is a hermitage cave where St. Jerome is supposed to have
stayed. It’s peaceful, quiet, it has a view of the entire Brač
channel, and along with plenty of fragrant mediterranean
plants, you get the feeling you’re in a secluded little paradise and not merely one kilometre from the bustle of the
SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Daniel: Split is a city of contrasts and extremes — it’s a
city where everything is allowed and everything is possible. Here, the streets and squares have retained their
true purpose and people loudly and openly show their
true feelings. Split is a Mediterranean city as it should be:
noisy, direct, witty, sardonic, lilt and playful. The city is best
acquainted through its people. A walk filled with curiosity
and openness starting from the early morning vegetable
market on the Riva, then along to Marmont street and up
to the fish market, gives you an image of Split like it really is. Also, you should definitely go see a football match
played by the local club, “Hajduk”. The club represents the
city so much more than any foreigner can imagine. Locals
don’t cheer for the club, they live for the club.
A walk through Marjan or any number of activities you can
do in the sea: water polo, swimming, sailing…
SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop?
Daniel: I’m not the kind of guy who likes shopping. I buy
things when necessary from a shopping mall where you
have everything in one place. City Centar One? Sure.
SIYP: What do you recommend as a souvenir from
Daniel: There are three things that Split is known for:
Diocletian’s palace with St. Duje’s cathedral, Marjan, and
Hajduk. You can’t go wrong if you get something representing one of the three things I just mentioned.
SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?
Daniel: Grilled fish seasoned with olive oil. After that…
Dalmatian pašticada which is a silverside of beef covered
in various spices and prepared in red wine. It’s clearly
one of the best meat dishes available in Split. Dalmatian
prosciutto and cheese is also a must. Fritters made from
homemade dough, brandy, raisins, and cooked in hot
oil. Also, paradižet a desert made with biscuits and egg
whites. Soparnik a local specialty from the Omiš hinterland, made from pastry, swiss chard and garlic.
Team 4coffee soul food
Dado Rimac, Vojko Markić, Joni Ulla
and Nikola Besednik
NoStress Bistro Archives
SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee
or go out at night?
Team 4coffee soul food: We are not very objective
when it comes to that question, because we are very
much tied to our specialty coffees which we roast ourselves. Therefore, we prefer to make some coffee with
our chemex filter and drink it somewhere in nature.
And as far as going out at night, the starting point is
Academia club Ghetto. They have an excellent evening
program featuring local DJ’s and a hypnotizing interior.
The people who go there always have good vibes and
SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?
Team 4coffee soul food: We love active holidays and
activities that bring us together with nature. For that, I
must mention the Turkish tower park, which recently got
a new look thanks to volunteers from Split.
There’s lots to do there for those who like being active.
Also Šantine is great for free-climbing. Sustipan is an excellent place for a picnic, especially if you’re there with
the members of KAM HRAM, who do acrobatic performances on silk ropes as well as juggling.
Soparnik, Dugi Rat Tourist Board Archives
Senior Assistant at the Split Academy of Art
(UMAS) in the Film department, author of the
exhibition ‘Forgotten Faces of Komiža’, for more
see page 58
SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Dinko: Coffee at Vjeko’s on the Riva and Judino Drvo for
S IYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?
SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend as a souvenir from Split?
Dinko: Diocletian’s palace cellars - handmade fish made
out of wood or metal by Ivan Bogdanović Goli.
SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?
Dinko: Various local chocolates from Nadalina.
22 Split In Your Pocket
SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city?
Which activities do you recommend?
Team 4coffee soul food: Along with the growth of
tourism, the number of tourist agencies that offer topquality tours of the city of Split has also grown. We would
gladly entrust anyone in their capable hands, because as
locals we had the opportunity to take a tour of the city
with a guide and we were surprised with all the new information and history that we had missed.
SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What
do you recommend as a souvenir from Split for
someone to take home?
Team 4coffee soul food: If you’re going to spend your
money, spend it wisely. The small specialized shops inside Diocletian’s palace sell unique handmade products
by talented artists and craftsmen.
They spread love and positive energy by keeping quality
and customer satisfaction in first place!
SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a “must-try” for visitors?
Team 4coffee soul food: The always fresh selection of
fish at Konoba Matejuška, and Barba beer at Split’s craft
Konoba Ma:Toni Archives
One of the best things in life for many are the places where
you can drink and eat well. Diocletian’s City has finally woken up in gastronomy. All those who favor iće & piće have
the opportunity to try some fine dining restaurants, brasseries and bistros, as well as traditional Dalmatian taverns.
Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named
after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in
1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time.
Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediterranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster
of your choice from the fish tank! Flowers always decorate
each of the tables based on the season and they also hold
various concerts, wine tastings and exhibitions.QC‑3, Trg
Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, bajamonti.split@
gmail.com, www.restoran-bajamonti.hr. Open 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (75 350kn). Pi TJAGBXW
Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot
for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls
and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and
purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place.
Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as delicious desserts such as tiramisu and maraskina, made with
cream chocolate and maraschino cherry liqueur.QE‑3, Put
Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15 13, [email protected]
Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn).
Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an original stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside,
the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of freshness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish
or shrimp. Candlelit tables give it spark and the service
is A+.QD‑3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22,
. Open 12:00 - 23:30. (60
- 130kn). PJ6NGBW
This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an
arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark
wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle
Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with
a contemporary twist.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel.
(+385-21) 27 84 57, [email protected]
com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (60 - 150kn). PTA6
For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas
bar and restaurant, where you can savour excellent flavours in a variety of meat and fish dishes, such as musSummer 2016
sels, octopus ispod peke, as well as tasty bruschetta and
quiche. The cozy wooden atmosphere and beautifully
presented food will leave you with a satisfied gastronomic experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 6, tel. (+385-)
095 200 80 08, [email protected]
Open 18:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PT J A 6 G
Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among
the stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and credenza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. It’s a
great place to eat when you’re not sure what you’re
in the mood for since the menu has a large variety of
choices to satisfy everyone’s cravings. Chicken, mixed
vegetable or calamari salads, with a side of fish or
cream of shrimp soup can be enjoyed for starters. Tortellini with four cheeses, homemade gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, green pasta with salmon or veal
steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main
course.QH‑2, Tomića Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97,
, www.trattoria-tinel.com. Open
08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). P i A 6 G B X W
Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The
location is a little odd since the restaruant is situated on the fifth floor of one of the bussines buildings in Split, but the interior is perfecto and the view
makes up for all that. A mere 10 minute walk from the
Đardin Park.QD‑2, Bihaćka 2a, tel. (+385-21) 48 67
76, www.biser-orijenta.com. Open 11:30- 24:00.
(25 - 125kn). PA6BXW
Conveniently situated in the city centre and just
across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast
range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior,
one can expect the complete Japanese experience in
food, dining and culture.QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelačića
1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, [email protected]
www.sushibarsplit.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
17:00 - 23:00. (22 - 75kn). PAGW
Kebap & Meze bar Istah
East meets west with a tasty selection of meze, Turkish delicacies and kebabs to be had - Halal certified!
Food is not the only attraction with authentic Turkish tea and coffee on the menu. Positioned outside
of the city centre and near the Poljud pools, this bar
has a relaxed and cosy atmosphere as well as a mini
terrace.QC‑1, Put Supavla 1, tel. (+385-21) 38 06 40,
, www.istah.hr. Open 12:00 - 20:00,
Fri 14:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 20:00. (26 - 59kn). PNGBXW
24 Split In Your Pocket
Uje Oil Bar
Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining with a
menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingredients coming through. The one thing that doesn’t change
is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly
amazing culinary experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 3, tel.
(+385-) 095 200 80 08, [email protected]
uje.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (60 120kn). Pi J A 6 G BW
Located by Diocletian’s palace, Villa Spizza offers fresh
homemade food that is prepared right in front of you.
This small and cozy restaurant offers a simple, yet varied
menu, with vegetable soup, risotto and pasta dishes, such
as pasta with prawns or risotto with sea shells, as well as
rump steak and lamb chops. They offer a daily selection
of new traditional Dalmatian dishes made using only seasonal fresh ingredients.QI‑2, Kružićeva 3, tel. (+385-)
091 152 12 49, [email protected]
. Open 09:00
- 24:00. Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PTJ 6N G
With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the
ACI Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try
any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos.
Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit
the cigar bar. Parking is free.QC‑3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel.
(+385-21) 39 85 60, [email protected]
www.adriaticgraso.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (60 250kn). PA G BW
This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a
crowd. Why? It’s a prime location for people watching
and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any
grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends
and sometimes on weekdays during summer time. Fairly
priced!QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8,
tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, [email protected]
, www.hoteladriana.com/restaurant/. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (75 160kn). Pi J A G BW
Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a
modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the
first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green
colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian
classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just
a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian
choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass.QI‑2,
Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-) 098 173 07
36, [email protected]
, www.apetit-split.hr. Open
11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). PJ A 6 G X W
SEA FOOD | CROATIAN WINES | MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE
Trg Republike 1, Split
Hidden in a beautiful courtyard inside the Diocletian’s Palace, the ethos behind this restaurant is creative flair with
seasonal ingredients. Pasta is always popular as is seafood
and steak. Care is taken with service and presentation. On
top of all that, the interior has an elegant blend of ancient
roman ruins decked with modern furniture.QJ‑2, Diokleci‑
janova 1, tel. (+385-) 099 323 96 71, [email protected]
Open 10:00 - 24:00. (110 - 260kn).
Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the
outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery and
fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and calming atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes are offered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried tomatoes,
as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your mouth
water.QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 987 77 80,
. Open 08:00 - 01:00. (80 - 150kn).
Curl up among the greenery and stone walls of this cozy
little terrace, decorated with sailboat pictures and hanging plants. Offers a vegetarian menu, such as grilled tofu
salad, grilled cheese with soy sauce and zucchini spaghetti
with salsa. For meat lovers, chicken spaghetti, gulaš and
sarma, is also available. To quench your thirst, sip on a fruit
smoothie or fresh juice. For dessert, a snickers or jaffa cookie
cake are like tasting heaven in a bowl.QJ‑3/K‑3, Šegvića
1, tel. (+385-21) 48 84 09, [email protected]
bistrotoc.com. Open 07:00 - 23:30. (50 - 130kn). Pi
The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful
settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared with
traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best
with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place
does it all, and does it well.QE‑3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel.
(+385-21) 54 33 00, [email protected]
restaurant-boban.com. Open 13:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn).
Bokeria Kitchen & Wine
Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was inspired
by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The modern and
classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls, which
are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a mosaic
tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A massive
chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the middle of
the room and extends over two floors. The restaurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu is decided
based on the season and the vegetables available. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that the ingredients
are always fresh.QI‑2, Domaldova 8, tel. (+385-21) 35 55
77, [email protected]
. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 02:00. (100 - 200kn). Pi TJA6GBXW
Brasserie on 7
Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking
the Adriatic Sea, French gastronomy is combined with
Croatian cuisine to create some delicious dishes throughout the day. Breakfast includes French toast, eggs benedict, croissants, omelette, your typical English style breakfast, and muesli with apple and yoghurt. Early birds can
waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch and dinner specialties
include spinach and octopus salad, mussels, cheese platters, tuna steak and the Catch of the Day are just some of
the appetising Mediterranean meals available.QI‑2, Obala
hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82
33, [email protected]
Open 08:00 - 01:00. (40 - 200kn). Pi TJA6
A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed
by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine
that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a
wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the
wallet and is sure to please.QJ‑1, Domovinskog rata 49a
(Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotelatrium.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). Pi A
This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre - Koteks. It’s a classic family eatery with a
predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines.
QD‑2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81 00, mail@
restoranduje.hr, www.restoranduje.hr. Open 10:00 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PALEGBXW
Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine
Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze
across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena
is just one of the many delights on offer.QE‑3, Ivana pl.
Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94 00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85,
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (120 - 170kn).
Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and picturesque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all
rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice,
such as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast, to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner,
they offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as
well as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes. For a perfect end to any meal, try a delicious slice of cheesecake
or rožata.QI‑2, Zadarska 13 (Hotel Marmont), tel. (+38521) 30 80 60, [email protected]
marmonthotel.com/restoran. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (100
- 150kn). Pi A6LGBXW
26 Split In Your Pocket
Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots that
adorn the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic
feel. It’s a great spot to chat with some friends or view
the latest fashion trends walking by the square while
nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region. For your first meal of
the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 - 11:30) consists of
omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot cappuccino.
Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef fillet steak
with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer season,
it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a
cocktail at night.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-)
099 498 18 88, [email protected]
bistro-nostress.com/. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. (80 - 220kn). iJ
A6 E B X W
This modern restaurant, which features Mediterranean
dishes, offers contemporary Dalmatian cuisine made with
a flair. By using local flavours mixed with fresh ingredients
inspired from Greece, Southern Italy, Provence and Spain,
they have revolutionized gastronomy in Split. They offer
exquisitely presented seashells, fish and meat with seasonal vegetables. Sip from a bottle of local or international
wine from a Connoisseur’s List of the finest high-quality
old and new world wines while overlooking the crystal
blue waters and savouring a delicious meal from their private rooftop created in the shape of a cruise ship’s bow. A
simple and calm environment decorated in soft blue tones
creates a relaxing atmosphere to dine in. They are striving for a Michelin star and are a proud member of Jeunes
Restaurateurs d’Europe.QI‑2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 3,
tel. (+385-21) 64 51 03, [email protected]
restoranparadigma.hr. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (95 - 220kn).
Looking for a little oasis inside a very busy city, then Restaurant Perivoj is a great escape and even has a fountain
and garden to treasure. Their desserts are city famous and
the range of entrees and mains are well thought out; beef,
lamb, octopus, Dalmatian paella, brioche with anchovies
and more. The wine selection is vast with friendly service to
top it off. Enjoy Perivoj! QD-2, Slavićeva 44, tel.(+385-21)
78 58 75, [email protected]
. Open 08:00 - 23:00
(68 - 160kn) Pi A E GB XW
Zinfandel’s food & wine bar
According to the owners, they wanted the interior to be
both industrial and rustic looking and it truly looks exquisite. Importantly, they’ve also managed to capture the
hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine
and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines
and impeccable service. It is tucked away in a quiet little alley close to the Diocletian’s Palace.QJ‑2, Marulićeva 2, tel.
(+385-21) 35 51 35, [email protected]
zinfandelfoodandwinebar.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (120 - 160kn). Pi JA6EG
This restaurant has class written all over it. It is stylish
both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has
lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean,
the service is second to none and if you do not mind
forking out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what
you pay for. Quality all-round!QC‑2, Uvala baluni 8, tel.
(+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 561 22 84, zrnosoli.
, www.zrnosoli.eu. Open 08:00 01:00. (80-120kn). Pi A 6 G B X W
Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over
two decks. The bar is literally on the beach and packs
refreshments of every sort imaginable. If you’re peckish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood and meat on
the grill, plus other delicacies.QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19
(Radisson Blu Resort, Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30,
resort-split. Open 12:00 - 18:00. (80 - 200kn). TA
6L B X W
Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of
seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo
is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area
and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the
ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.
QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, info@
Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). P6NGBW
Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer. It’s
located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace,
Are you picky about bread? Then just above the
fish market sits a bread shop which serves baked
bread without additives. They are also famous for
replicating a type of Roman bread made of wheat,
goat cheese and honey.QI‑2, Obrov 6, tel. (+385-)
099 261 23 45, [email protected]
. Open 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. JN
when you pass ‘Ispod ure’ (under the clock tower) simply turn right.QI‑2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49,
www.restoranposejdon.com. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (50 200kn). Pi JA6GBW
selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive
portionsQI‑2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79
32. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (43 - 150kn).
PA 6 G B XW
Stellon’s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean cuisine.
The restaurant overlooks the beach and has a pleasingly
contemporary ambience, creating relaxed surroundings
for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve your seat during the summer!QD‑3, Uvala Bačvice bb, tel. (+385-21)
48 92 00, [email protected]
. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (70 - 120kn). Pi A6LGBW
You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it’s
right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again. There
you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable
wood-fire oven pizzas.QJ‑1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+385-21)
48 63 33, [email protected]
, www.pizzeriagust.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 57kn).
PA 6 GW
The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near
the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the
bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide
Dining in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza
ain’t bad, actually it’s quite good. It’s located at the Spinut
Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan.QB‑2, Lučica
7, tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63, fax (+385-21) 38 67 59, info@
restoranlucica.com, www.restoranlucica.com. Open
08:00 - 23:30. (50 - 100kn). Pi A 6 L G B
A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest
you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service
is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled
with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak
rolled in pancetta.QI‑2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49
88, [email protected]
hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 150kn). PJ A 6 G BW
Velo misto No 1
Located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent
wood-fire pizza. Velo Misto by the way, was the name
of a popular TV series with performances by top Split
theatre thespians.QC‑2, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38
47 77, [email protected]
. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). Pi A 6 V
GB X W
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
28 Split In Your Pocket
If you end up at some tavern and if you see that at one of
the tables sits a group that at the same moment are talking loudly and are chewing a mouthful of delicious food,
do not be afraid - they are only eating marenda! Marenda
has always taken place somewhere between ten o’clock
in the morning and noon. By 10:00 - 12:00, the working
class would have starved a hundred times, and when this
hunger is combined with Mediterranean casualness, then
you can enjoy. You can still eat everything at this meal from tripe and pašta fažol (Dalmatian beans with pasta),
to polpeta u šugu (meatballs and sauce) and manistra
usuvo (spaghetti and meat sauce), to boiled meat and
fried sardines and even veal shank.
Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional
Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular
meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and
actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of
fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and
served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish
and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised
the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.
QH‑3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23,
. Open 06:00 - 24:00. (45 - 65kn).
Pi 6 N G B X W
To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once
spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception
as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white
risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home
made rakija.QH‑2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099
667 58 91. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (100 150kn). PA G B X W
Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to
your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with
magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in
the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making
the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant.QC‑3, Uvala Bal‑
uni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00, restoran.jugo@gmail.
com, www.restoranjugo.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 120kn). Pi A 6 L E G
Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to
make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian
woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is
done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and
chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green
pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ‑2, Sredmanuška 4,
tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97/(+385-21) 34 82 54. Open 10:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 130kn). PA 6
This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it
offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dalmatian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with
gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual
variant on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad
beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite.
QH‑2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. Open
09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 120kn). Pi A 6 G B W
Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a
nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman statue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and gorgeous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great
place for when you’re in the mood for Mediterranean seafood cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad
and grilled fish.QE‑3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 36/
(+385-) 099 501 74 85. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn).
It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with
an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem
ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck
into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or
try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular
with locals and the wine list is endless.QH‑2, Ban Mladeno‑
va 9, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.
com, www.konobavaros.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (60 120kn). PAGBW
Oštarija u Viđakovi
With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this
is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional
fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced
meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive
menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes if you’re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs
room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the
roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger
gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils
and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things
cosy wherever you choose to sit.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliter‑
na 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27, www.
ostarijauvidjakovi.eu. Open 08:30 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).
A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family
house. The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast
lamb with vegetables and much more.QE‑3, Spinčićeva 2a,
Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi,
namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and
this little stand on the corner serves them up right.
There’s no seating available but you can park it on a
bench at the street and watch the night-time drama
unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (18 - 35kn).
Another player in the local snack game along with
Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made
on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a
mid-day or midnight snack.QI‑2, Tončićeva 4, tel.
(+385-21) 34 83 49/(+385-) 091 574 07 64, www.
rizzo.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 24:00. (8 - 20kn). NBW
tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, catering@
pimpinella.hr, www.pimpinella.hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (48 - 70kn). Pi A6GBXW
A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the
city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers
refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the
interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet.QH‑2, Šperun
3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99/(+385-) 091 555 42 62,
. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (35 180kn). Pi J A G B X W
Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and
savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and
camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije
8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open
06:00 - 22:00. (35 - 60kn). PN G W
The street food restaurant’s priority is that the food tastes
good and some dishes are made using local products.
They offer everything from meat, soup, seafood and vegetables to smaller authentic Dalmatian cuisine. Last but
not least, you can eat a meal that is not that expensive.
NoStress Bistro Archives
30 Split In Your Pocket
Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming
fast food restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick meal with
omelettes, top notch English breakfast, croissants served
with sweet side dishes, and various burgers and sandwiches to choose from between 07:00 - 11:30 in the mornsplit.inyourpocket.com
ing. Thereafter, they serve all kinds of dishes, such as fish &
chips, sandwiches, fish burgers, salads and omelettes. To
satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a warm croissants or a delicious piece of pie. The green wooden tables and chairs,
surrounded by small potted trees decorating the outdoor
terrace, give an earthy green peace feel to the place.QI‑2,
Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46, bepasplit1@gmail.
com, www.bepa.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. (40 - 200kn). Pi TJA6GBW
Corto Maltese Freestyle Food
Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick walls
and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like setting
thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on offer. You
can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and
sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy everyone’s
taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day (08:00 - 12:00)
there are a variety of scrambled eggs and omelettes, as
well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese and freshly
squeezed juice.QI‑2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21) 58 72 01/
(+385-) 092 160 10 00, [email protected]
cortomaltese.rocks. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn).
La Regina del Formaggio
A beautifully decorated deli store and snack bar located in
the heart of Split where you can savour Italian and Croatian delicacies, such as high-quality wines and cheeses,
as well as Italian craft beer, exotic salads and sandwiches.
QI‑2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 21, tel. (+385-) 091 558 40
12, [email protected]
com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (30 - 80kn). Pi TJA
Toto’s Burger Bar
A buzz for burgers ranging from classic types to original
and innovative sorts can be had; the meat and veggies are
exclusively purchased from local family farms. Spaghetti,
soups, juices and salads are also on the menu! Their breakfast and dessert offer has just been released, lots of oatmeal/muesli & yoghurt cups, truffles as well as sugar and
gluten free cakes.QH‑2/3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+38521) 31 40 40, [email protected]
. Open 07:30
- 24:00. (12 - 57kn). Pi 6NSW
Venture into this relatively new restaurant with a growing
reputation for its vegetarian and vegan offer that is based
on seitan and tofu dishes as well as fruit and veggies which
are all purchased directly from local farmers. Healthy meals
at top deals! The menu is seasonal and adapted to what
is fresh. Other meals are typically Dalmatian and onus is
placed on scrumptious desserts. Cosy with a splash of retro
interior, small terrace too.QJ‑2, Vuškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-)
099 939 54 18, [email protected]
. Open 08:00
- 24:00. (70 - 220kn). Pi A6GBW
If you’re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg…
you’ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed
fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown
or organic.QI‑2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40,
Open 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (15 60kn). Pi 6 V N G B X W
An ultra-modern chic oasis of healthy food and natural
beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. Rise and shine for breakfast
which includes freshly squeezed juice, burritos, cakes,
pies, buckwheat porridge, and oatmeal. This healthy
cuisine offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such
as tofu burritos, sushi, miso soup, hemp burgers and
baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets
to munch on for dessert such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, these
taste great along with Bazara arabic coffee, bio-fruit juice
or organic tea.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.
upcafe.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
(15 - 45kn). Pi 6 V N G B X W
Out of town
Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from
the sea, it’s located 15min from the center of Split by car.
Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which
was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now
renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalmatian specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or
meat, which can be savoured while listening to traditional klapa music.QDon Frane Bege 2, Kaštel Kam‑
belovac, tel. (+385-21) 22 02 08, fax (+385-21) 22 04
14, [email protected]
, www.restoranbaletnaskola.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn).
PA L G B X W
Located in the village Staro selo Jesenice, the restaurant
is only 15 minutes away from Omiš, and they also offer
local pick up for guests. Upon arrival, you’ll be dazzled
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
U Facilities for the disabled
B Outside seating
L Guarded parking
S Take away
J Old town location
32 Split In Your Pocket
Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar
This wine and cheese bar has ‘Dalmatia’ written all over it with over 100 wines. Representing
the diversity and quality of wines in this region,
50 wines are available to try by the glass. As well,
they offer about 20 artisan cheeses that are primarily produced locally. You can pick and choose
whatever suits your taste buds as you relax in their
cozy interior space with stonewalls set against elm
and oak furniture. They have an extremely friendly
staff, many of which hold wine qualifications. They
also have been mentioned in numerous national
and international publications for their highquality products and service.QI‑1, Poljana Tina
Ujevića 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 58 54, paradox.bar@
paradox.hr, www.paradox.hr/bar. Open 09:00 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (75 - 110kn). PJ A
6E G B X W
by the large terrace and breathtaking views of nearby islands. All dishes are based on traditional recipes, handed
down generation to generation, and served with the
best wines from local Dalmatian wine cellars.
Service is warm and you don’t feel like another number, but rather as a valued customer.QStaro selo Je‑
senice 11, tel. (+385-) 095 574 66 00, antetomas57@
gmail.com, www.bajso.com. Open 15:00 - 23:00. (70
- 250kn). AL B W
A family-run restaurant, founded in 2000, they have created a comfortable and homey environment, adorned
with nautical knickknacks and photographs, to enjoy
a delicious Mediterranean meal in. They offer meals
combining traditional local cuisine with contemporary
twists, using predominantly fresh fish and shellfish. Reservations are recommended.QIvankova 42, tel. (+38521) 32 62 35, [email protected]
. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (60 - 300kn). PT
A6 L G X W
R E STAU R A N T
Healthy Mediterranean cuisine
presented in a modern way
Restaurant & Wine bar Matrioška
Service and advice all at the right price! This restaurant
and wine bar edges its competition by far with outstanding Croatian and international dishes including sea food,
meat and pasta on the menu; and all prepared with flair
and precision. As for wine, the staff is knowledgeable
and the wine list is per se excellence! The entire dining
experience is sure to be remembered…QObala Sv.
Nikole 91, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 60 45 97, info@
hoteli-baskavoda.hr, www.hoteli-baskavoda.hr. Open
11:30 - 23:00. (65 - 550kn). AL B W
Free transfer from the city
to the restaurant
Uvala Baluni 8 (ACI marine), Split
T + 385 21 399 333
M +385 91 434 30 50
E-mail: [email protected]
Instagram: zrnosoli, be_julija
delicacies No.1 by Julija
Walking distance Old City - Zrno Soli:
Summer 2016 33
Bolska marenda or brunch in Bol, Brač Island. Trudna Teća Archives, for more see page 17.
When it comes to food the people of Dalmatia like to have
theirs simple, fresh and grown locally. There are no exotic
spices or complex preparations, just natural flavours. And
boy, do they taste great. In Split there is no shortage of fantastic ingredients, and there is no better place to get them
than the local farmers’ market and fish market, or as Splićani
call them, Pazar (Pah-zar) and the Peškarija (Pesh kah ria).
Now, in the mind of a foreigner it would be logical to keep
these two close, but they are at exactly the opposite ends of
the Riva, the main thoroughfare that runs along the quayside. This is mainly due to the fact that the peškarija is close
to the former fishing port of Matejuška, while Pazar is near
to one of the main roads since most of the veg is grown
inland. The good thing is that Pazar is very close to the bus
station and the ferry port, so if you can spare a few minutes
before leaving for your favourite island you can stock up on
veg since it’s at least three times more expensive on the
islands. Aside from its practical uses, Pazar is one of those
places where the local population and pleasure-seeking
tourists tend to mix without prejudice. It’s a gathering place
for people from islands like Brač, Hvar and Šolta, for the
mountain people of Dalmatinska Zagora and for people
from smaller local towns like the seven Kaštelas. All of them
bring their produce to the concrete benches in the shade
of the eastern wall of Diocletian’s palace. Here you can find
everything that grows under the sun, from strawberries,
fresh or dried figs, lemons, grapes and pomegranates to
wild asparagus, sun-ripened and sweet-smelling tomatoes,
plus all kinds of green leafy veg like spinach and chard, aubergines, carrots, courgettes, goats’ and sheep’s cheeses,
34 Split In Your Pocket
homemade jams and preserves, liqueurs and brandies,
cured meats and fresh poultry. It’s a veritable cornucopia of
flavours and colours, garnished with the lively banter of the
sales people who are hoping to persuade you to taste their
goods and buy their products. Some of these market sellers
have been feeding the Splićani for generations. Depending on the time of day you arrive, Pazar can be quite an
overwhelming experience, so it’s sometimes wise to buy a
cold beer at a nearby kiosk and join the locals in the shade
waiting for the prices to go down towards the end of the
day. Now you’ve got all of your meat and veg and some
wine and brandy, it’s time to pick out a nice piece of fish
at the fish market. The peškarija is located smack bang in
the middle of Marmontova, the nice marble-paved street
at the western end of the Riva. You must have seen it or at
least smelled it out. No worries, due to the sulphur wells
that brought Diocletian here, the air here keeps the fish
hygienic as there are no flies. The fish market opens early,
with the morning catch coming in even before 07:00, so
set an alarm clock if you want the best pieces to end up on
your grill. Dalmatian people do not eat expensive fish like
dentex, john dory or the other prize catches. These all go
to restaurants or tourists. Locals prefer cheaper, smaller fish
like sardines, anchovies, bonito, squid, seabream, mackerel
and red mullet. These fish are not only easy on the pocket,
they’re tasty and healthy too - the benefits of oily fish like
sardine and mackerel are renowned. Feeling a bit nervous
about buying fresh fish? Just look for shiny scales, clear eyes
and firm flesh. Check the gills too, which should be bright
red. Now you bought it, you will have to gut it. Gross? Ask
the person behind the counter, if they’re not too busy they
might oblige. If not, best stick to the restaurants.
Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from various parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple
tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste
them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tasting all this if you don’t have the good fortune of being
invited to someone’s house where mama will surprise
your taste buds? One option is to go exploring among
the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be
wine cellars where you could slice some pršut and cheese
or eat salted anchovies after a hard day’s work). You’ll find
these kinds of restaurants scattered around the old city
and the market. Another option is to schedule your visit
around the many gastronomic events happening all summer around Split, most of them based on a certain dish
or ingredient. See our guide to food festivals in the Split
What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends
on the season. Local people tend to stick very much to
what’s around at a given time of year rather than relying on greenhouse-grown produce or imports. So, in the
spring, look out for dishes made with artichokes or for
young broad beans prepared in a million different ways,
for example with lamb, with squid ink… Mmm, it makes
us hungry just thinking about it. Also watch out for divlje
zelje, greens picked in the wild.
Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish simply
grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a
black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or
the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet
or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. In cooler
seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with
vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići
a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These
are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and
sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried
meats. These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every
special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a
sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from
the island of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing
a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version. Or from inland,
look out for soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and
spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive oil. These are specialities you might find
on sale at Pazar market. On a sweeter note, look out for
compressed cakes of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly
made at home and truly delicious.
A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski medenjak, a
biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though you’ll probably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica patisserie
in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir, look out
for rafiole. These are little half-moons made from almonds
and maraschino liqueur. Legend has it they were invented
by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in the Kamerlengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came to rescue
her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of her days
as a mark of her gratitude.
Lamb, Photo by Višnja Arambašić
The Foodie’s Guide
01.06 WEDNESDAY - 30.09 FRIDAY
Kopačina Lamb Festival
Every Thursday, starting from around 19:00, you can
try about 15 different specialities made from lamb,
including lamb’s liver pate, lamb with broad beans
and a host of different specialities. Be sure to reserve
your table - it’s very busy.QKonoba Kopačina, Donji
Humac, Brač island, www.konoba-kopacina.com.
END OF JULY
The Soparnik Festival
Pie to try! Head to the Dalmatian town of Dugi Rat
between Split and Omiš for the 12th edition of this
mouthwatering experience. This pie made of mangold, spring onions and parsley which are portioned
between two layers of the simplest dough. Dating
since the Turkish invasions in Croatia, this is such a
popular dish that it has earned its own festival, and
has been registered Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) recently.QDugi Rat, www.tz-dugirat.hr.
The village of Dol has its very own living legend - a
lady named Barica who is proud holder of the title of
World Champion in the making of Hrapačuša cake.
Some may point out that Hrapačuša is only made on
Brač and in particular in Dol and that this is therefore
no achievement at all, but we defy anyone to taste
the cake of Barica and tell us that she is not among
the greats of this planet, or even neighbouring galaxies, in the art of making cake. Her Hrapačuša is a
crescendo of nuts, lemon, caramelised sugar and egg
yolk, a calorific atom bomb that induces an intense
sugar rush and has been named “Dol Viagra” with
good reason. Try Barica’s award-winning cake in Konoba Toni or at island gastronomy festival Hrapačuša
Night.QDol, Brač island.
Coffee & Cakes
Coffee & Cakes
the fine range of beers, spirits, liqueurs, and cocktails
on offer and don’t forget peruse the café interior with
its renaissance like frescoes in what is a gorgeous setting.QD‑3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6,
tel. (+385-21) 78 23 38, www.kavana-cakula.hr. Open
07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 02:00. PJ A
A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here’s a great
opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café
along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they’d state
its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it’s
not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it.
It’s name is Italian for fairytale and we must absurdly
state that the female toilet is unusually narrow!QI‑2,
Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21) 34 48 48,
konoba-favola.com/o-nama/. Open 08:00 - 24:00.
PJ A G B X W
FRO (ISPRID BANKE)
Can’t miss this Café on the Riva! Large exterior, small interior, large range of drinks, small wait for service! Fro is all
about kicking up the heels, enjoying the scenic view of
the harbour and watching people go by. Cocktails, coffees,
fresh OJ, beers and wine are all standard.QI‑2/3, Obala
Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 11. Open 07:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 07:00-02:00.B W
4coffee soul food Archives
4coffee soul food
The name says it all, heartfelt ownership and staff that
make every effort to ensure your experience is soulful!
Though tiny inside, the coffee experience is why locals
reverberate here as the beans that are used and served
send a scent of freshness and in the air will have your nose
twinkling.QJ‑2, Hrvojeva 9, tel. (+385-) 091 523 94 65,
. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 14:00. W
With its super equipped interior, modern design and relaxed atmosphere, this cafe bar is a place not to be missed
when visiting Split. Besides offering Lavazza coffee, they
also prepare different types of pastries and breakfast
throughout summer. Large LCD screens provide the perfect backdrop for World Cup mania!QD‑3, Mile Gojsalića
1, tel. (+385-) 095 818 88 88. Open 07:00 - 24:00. i6
Right on the Riva, the sea breeze gently blows whilst you
order your beverages from sunrise till dawn. Choose from
36 Split In Your Pocket
Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range
of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes,
strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those
pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cocktails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep
you jostling!QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-)
095 197 16 56, [email protected]
08:00 - 24:00. PJ 6N G B XW
HOK Kavana and Gallery
Café meets bar meets mini nightclub in the later hours is
how best to describe this kavana. Lots of events are held
here especially with artists who often have their work showcased and launched to an audience. Musical theme nights
are also a catch with rock to pop to retro among the most
popular. Come by day or night, you’re bound to catch a cool
drink and a good vibe.QD‑2, Kavanjinova 11, tel. (+385-)
092 236 03 24. Open 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. BW
If you wish to take a stroll outside of the old town, a good
choice is to Zenta bay, where the afternoon hours are perfect for lazying around with a coffee and friendly company. With a view of the bay and boats and the smell of
the sea, it’s a real treat. Be sure to take a stroll around the
whole picturesque bay all the way to the popular Bačvice
beach.QE‑3, Cvjetna 1, tel. (+385-21) 57 13 09/(+38521) 38 91 01, kalafatic.fullbusiness.com. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P6 GB XW
Right from the Voćni trg, in the narrow passage you’ll
find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful
chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to
its industrially fitted interior.
The cool exterior and décor is adjoined by the varied
offer of light meals, from classical breakfast and salads
to pasta and fish, and all at value for money. As the day
goes by, you will be able to choose one of the cocktails and enjoy this place and its complete offer which
is available at any time of the day, until late night.QI‑2,
Buvinina 1, tel. (+385-21) 27 44 91, linda.vladislavic@
gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJ A 6 G B
A superb place for reading the daily paper and sipping
a coffee with an outlook toward the Kaštela towns and
the Kozjak mountain. In lovely weather, there’s nothing
better than sitting here and watching the passing sailboats and rowboats.QC‑2, Špinutska 67, tel. (+385-21)
38 43 23, [email protected]
, www.procaffe.hr. Open
07:00 - 01:00. PA 6 G B X W
‘Libar’ in local dialect means ‘a book’ and though this
isn’t a library the café interior is chock-full of handmade
themed items. Cosy ambiance indoors and terrace
views that say WOW. Watch sporting events live, respectable choice of beers and wines at reasonable prices.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3. Open 07:00 - 24:00,
Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PJ A 6 B X W
A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded
the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor’s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the
location. There’s wireless Internet, magazines and daily
newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu
that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer
months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style.
QJ‑2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82, lvxor@
lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PJ A G B X W
The seven axes embedded in pieces of wood lining the
back wall are what initially attracted our interest, but,
alas, they remained a mystery. Perhaps you can corner
a server and make them spill the beans regarding their
origins. Axes notwithstanding, the bar’s large outdoor
seating area and small but stylish interior make for a
pleasant enough place to have a coffee and check out
the passersby.QI‑1, Poljana Tina Ujevića bb, nina.
. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sun 08:00
- 24:00. PB X W
Yep, the interior is all done up in teak and lined on one
side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor
seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings.QJ‑2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 78 20
10, [email protected]
. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00.
P6 N G B X W
It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice
for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has
a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach.
Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during
the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the
judge!QD‑3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b, akrapante@
gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. Open 07:30- 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:30 - 02:00. PNGBXW
Small Plates &
Got a sweet tooth? Want something light’n’fresh?
Goluzarije is a funky little patisserie/cake and coffee
shop that prides itself exclusively on traditional cakes
made according to traditional recipes.QI/D‑2, Ulica
Zrinsko Frankopanska 1, tel. (+385-21) 41 24 12.
Love your cakes and want to try the traditional home recipes of the region, look no further as the staff here serves
homemade cakes, sweets and salty pastries. There is
no seating so it is all take out and on the go. Not bad
if you would like a nibble on the beach!QF‑3, Ruđera
Boškovića bb, tel. (+385-) 098 930 07 54/(+385-) 095
926 40 30, kuc[email protected]
. Open 08:00 20:30. Closed Sun. NG W
Luka Ice-cream & Cakes
Known as one of the best places for ice cream in Split,
these delicious homemade ice cream flavours will have
you coming back over and over again for more. Every
day they produce new flavours made with fresh ingredients, so you’ll never get bored trying all the flavours. As
well, they also serve tasty pie, cheesecake and smoothies.QI‑1, Petra Svačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 594 95 52,
. Open 09:00 - 01:00,
Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PJ 6 N G B W
This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand
old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to
tradition - just as the name itself!QI‑2, Bosanska 2, tel.
(+385-21) 36 10 70, [email protected]
. Open 08:00
- 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. PN S
During the summer months the nightlife in Split is not only
rich and vibrant on the weekends but throughout the week
as well. It must be said that due to the countless open-air
concerts, festivals, bars and restaurants, spending time with
friends and hanging out in the city is done mostly outdoors.
A night out typically begins with a drink on the Riva — the
main seaside promenade in front of the old town — or at
one of the many popular wine bars which have opened up
in recent years. A popular meeting and drinking place for the
younger boisterous crowd is at Matejuška — a stone pier jutting out into the sea located less than half way from the old
palace walls to the city marina. The night moves on from here
and people begin to gravitate towards the many bars tucked
inside the walls of the old Roman palace among the tiny
labyrinthine streets. Truth be told, the majority of the bars are
often very small; with space inside at a premium, crowds prefer to gather in front of the bars themselves. Accommodating bar owners often place benches or cushions outside for
people to sit on. This phenomenon is most prevalent along
the narrow streets of Get, located less than 100 meters from
the seaside promenade, where bars are stacked one next to
another up a zigzagging staircase. With people sitting and
mingling on the stairs, the flow of people — though not
unpleasantly — slows to a crawl. This is the ideal place to
truly experience the laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere
that’s typical of Split and its people. If, after all this you’re still
in the mood for exploring, the early morning hours is when
the nightclubs located outside the palace walls come to life.
Caffe bar Fluid
Get ready to take in some fluids at the café with the same
name, for one thing the cocktails and rakija (grappa) are
pretty darn good & cheap with lots of flavours to choose
from. The café is quite small and there are tables and seats
along the steps outside. Live DJs at weekends!QI‑2, Dosud
1, tel. (+385-) 095 670 00 02. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 01:00.
Fabrique - FUN & BBQ Pub
Welcome to Split’s ‘new kid on the block’, a sensational new
pub that is a gem upon entry. Located centrally in the historical palace, the sheer interior oozes all that is old ’n’ new and
the lighting really sets the tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or
so international beers and top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique
has DJs spinning tunes on weekends and you can stay all
night or drop in for some warm up drinks before a night
out.QI‑2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175
12 71, [email protected]
. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main
square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily
coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song
chatter of the interesting local folk.QI‑2, Iza Lože 5, tel.
(+385-21) 34 82 57. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. PNBXW
38 Split In Your Pocket
Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco
soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky
feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and
bees. Symbolic? You decide.QJ‑2, Dosud 10, koracat@
gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJ6ENB
La Bodega Split
With chills and thrills, La Bodega is a stunning wine bar that
is comfortable enough to sit and relax, and when the numbers increase, people can choose to stay in or drink outside.
A cosmopolitan/mature crowd gather with live bands performing on certain nights. Tops for warm up drinks or park
yourself and stay the entire night.QI‑2, Mihovilova širina
1, tel. (+385-) 099 462 94 44, [email protected]
www.labodega.hr. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PAEG
Having opened last year, Moon Bar has become a hit
amongst ‘Spličani’ with lots of theme nights, DJs and live
bands performing throughout the year. There is always action aplenty and the modern and futuristic interior adds
to the ambience. Lighting is effective with laser like rays
spreading across the venue, you might be packed like a sardine at times but that’s what creates the atmosphere.QE‑3,
Matice hrvatske 1, tel. (+385-) 095 595 37 99, [email protected]
. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PA
Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located
along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot
summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you
have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill
whilst sipping beverages.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narod‑
nog preporoda 18, [email protected]
com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJ
To Je To
Located in Old Town Split, come on in and rave like a Roman
at the bar with one of the largest selections of Croatian Craft
Beers as well as homemade rakija (local grappa) on offer.
Hand roasted coffee available too. Live music is often on the
agenda and there is seating available outside for those scintillating hot nights. Btw ‘To je To’ means ‘That is That’ in English, and that’s that!QI‑2, Nigerova ulica 2, tojetocaffe@
gmail.com, www.tojetosplit.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri
08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. P6
Exclusivity is the key and this café by day slash nightclub
by night has an ultramodern interior with an amazing light
show under the stars. Tis a local hot spot and does attract
some famous inhabitants. DJ’s play varied music genres so
prepare to dance the night away.QE‑3, Put Firula 53, tel.
(+385-) 091 901 09 63, [email protected]
07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PABXW
Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact
your plimsolls won’t even make it past the door. This is Split’s
most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where
bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in
Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai.QC‑2, VIII. Mediteranskih
igara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 211 99 93, [email protected]
hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00.
Newly opened at the former Croatian Railway warehouse
this is the perfect place for a new club, as it’s located
away from residential areas. Neon noose lights hang from
the ceiling giving an eerie and artsy vibe to the dark and
dingy space. Their program offers music nights, filled with
performances by a variety of singers, as well as theatre and
film nights.QE‑1, Kopilica 24, antonia.kuzmanic@gmail.
com, www.judinodrvo.com. Open Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00.
Small groups of Split’s young hell-raisers mark the way
to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with
club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially
hangover-inducing drink specials. If you’re in the mood
for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere.
A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from
the club crush.QE‑3, Uvala Zenta 3, info.ohara@gmail.
com, www.ohara.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 05:00. Closed Sun. PABXW
Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent
this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You’ll find
two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes
on the speakers and a hip decor.QC‑2, Mediteranskih
igara 21, tel. (+385-) 098 169 00 00, sandro.jelavic@
hotmail.com, www.vanilla.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 05:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. PAGBXW
Located within 5* hotel “Atrium”, very close to city
center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker
tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside
underground garage, money exchange office, bar
lounge.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+38521) 27 48 00, www.casinoplatinum.hr. Open 00:00
- 24:00. PGXW
Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable
for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An
afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should
be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café
Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is
home to several points of interest, including the remains
of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set
of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and
Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can
see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B‑2/3.
Photo by Marša Gajinov
A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from
the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why
practically any emperor would be more than happy to
locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his
retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was
completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone
shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported
all the way from Egypt. Diocletian’s palace has become
the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops
and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex - The part of the palace known as “the
basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to
support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956,
was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of
thousands of years of history. Now, it’s been cleaned
and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor
plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the
basement can help visitors envision the layout of the
palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient
palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of
the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can
be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard
of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central
meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping
coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural
Marjan Peninsula (Marjan)
When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s
second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute
walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the
40 Split In Your Pocket
If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog
narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian
National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone
is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a
broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length
of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side.
It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the
people of Split to engage in some of the activities that
have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over
a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split’s Riva continues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect
for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI‑3,
Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.
The Peristyle and The Cathedral of
St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv.
Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally
guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians
who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of
the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The
former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the
form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can
be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently
on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the
latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign
of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In
grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to
one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona.
After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb
the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding
area and the nearby port.QJ‑2.
Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is
characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll
around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of
what daily life is like around Split.QH‑2.
Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s
archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The
museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly
from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured
are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along
with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal
and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC‑2, Zrin‑
sko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, info@
armus.hr, www.armus.hr. Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 15 - 30kn.
Croatian Maritime Museum Split
(Hrvatski pomorski muzej Split)
Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and
you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights,
of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s
located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians
in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay,
and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian
Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from
Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also
lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit
is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes
developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around
an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded
by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on
the east side of the fortress.QK‑2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe
Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46, [email protected]
www.hpms.hr. June - August Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
by prior arrangement. September - May 31st Open
09:00 - 15:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission
10 - 20kn.
Ethnographic Museum Split
(Etnografski muzej Split)
If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian
Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum
was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits
detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving
and pottery, that have been practised in the region over
the years.QJ‑3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61,
, www.etnografskimuzej-split.hr. June - September 15th Open 09:30 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. September 16th - May 31st
Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Sun by prior ar‑
rangement. Admission 10 - 15kn.
Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović
Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac
Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of
telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences
ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek
sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual
style. The display includes an impressive selection of his
large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works
and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was
also famous for the huge works he produced for public
spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split
(see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović
emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South
Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west
along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a
Known to locals as Poljudska ljepotica or the “Poljud
beauty”, Poljud is the second largest stadium in
Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has
a capacity of 35,000 people. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government
as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean
Games and was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito,
who was an avowed fan of the team who play their
home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split. By far the
most important and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a dedicated fan base around the world has followed Hajduk throughout the team’s history. In the
former Yugoslavia, Hajduk was one of the few teams
to attract fans from different regions and ethnicities,
particularly with Albanians in Kosovo. And there are
numerous anecdotes about Hajduk never playing
a game without at least some of their loyal fans in
the stands, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian football
supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the
1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‘to cheer’),
the Torcida are one of the most dedicated football
supporters groups in Europe. The Torcida generally call Hajduk players as bili, which in local dialect
is the plural form of bijeli, or white, in reference to
the white shirts that, along with blue shorts, comprise the Hajduk uniform. Along with the team’s rich
history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality
football players, with several going on to illustrious
careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that
when the Croatian national team placed third in the
1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players. In 2015, the Poljud Stadium was
declared as a protected cultural monument of the
Republic of Croatia.
42 Split In Your Pocket
16th-century summer house bought by Meštrović in 1939
and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably
the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden
reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’
work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.QB‑3, Šetalište
Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34 08 00, mim@
mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. May - September 30
Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and hoil‑
days. October - April 30 Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission
20kn Children, 40kn Adults, 60kn Family.
Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih
Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian
archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian
Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently,
sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and
sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to
the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give
you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece
collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items
spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA‑3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+38521) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 09, [email protected]
www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Museum of Fine Arts
Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most
absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by
an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview
of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes
in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel
Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić
and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s
temporary exhibitions blending local and international
artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications,
all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience.
Current information on all the upcoming events can be
viewed at the museum’s website.QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomis‑
lava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 12, galerija-umjetnina@
galum.hr, www.galum.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, June 15th - September 15th
Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn
Children, 40 - 60kn Adults.
Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita)
The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century
and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s
most respected families, built a small palace to serve as
Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery
(Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika)
Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint
Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the
beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque
altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by Jacopo
Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as the gothic
crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00,
10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between July and September there will be no mass at 11:00 .QJ‑2/3, Hrvojeva 2,
tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 - 12:00, 17:30 - 19:00.
Bačvice beach 1936, Photo by Julije Mosettig
their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the
City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced
back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and
monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has
grown in subsequent years to include various paintings
and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in
Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that
help tell the historical story of Split.QJ‑2, Papalićeva 1, tel.
(+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada-
A MASTER OF LIGHTNING
This year marks the 160th anniversary of the birth
of Nikola Tesla. Born July 10th, 1856 in the village of
Smiljan, Gospić, in what was then the Austrian Empire. His affinity for mathematics as well as an eidetic
memory led him to flourish in school. Although he
failed to graduate from university, Tesla eventually
moved to New York City in 1884 and was hired by
Thomas Edison, a relationship which could provide
tomes of anecdotes by itself. This summer, the first
ever Tesla Film Festival will be celebrating the life
and contributions of Nikola Tesla. The festival will
feature film and other works inspired by the inventor and will be presented in cities around the globe.
The Tesla Science Foundation will be present as well,
awarding the best in show films or other works made
about Tesla. The Festival will travel throughout the
United States and Europe. With a name now immortalised by his contribution to the world, Nikola Tesla
will certainly be remembered as one of the greatest
scientists the human race has ever seen.
44 Split In Your Pocket
, www.mgst.net. June - September 30th
Open 08:30 - 22:00. October Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sun
09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.
Emanuel Vidović Gallery
(Galerija Emanuel Vidović)
Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to
the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953).
Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia
providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good
cross-section of Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there
is a fascinating re-creation of the artist’s former studio including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of
wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A
Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen
on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the
groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ‑2,
Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55, info@
galerija-vidovic.com, www.galerija-vidovic.com. June
- September 30th Open 08:30 - 22:00. October Open
08:30 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and
church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from
1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the
8th century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century
and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th
century.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5.
The Franciscan Church and Monastery
of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin
Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan
Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije)
On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you’ll find the Franciscan Monastery on
Poljud. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of
the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude). The Franciscan
church and monastery is the most valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The oldest object is a gothic drawer
for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance
crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull
by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those
who, on the Virgin’s feast days and on the first Sundays of
the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations
for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun
09:00, 10:00, 11:30 and 19:00. June 21st - August 30th Mass
Sun: 08:30, 10:00, 19:00.QC‑1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel.
(+385-21) 38 13 77, [email protected]
samostan-poljud.com. Open by prior arrangement.
In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called
together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of
the then current church system. The Great Assembly took
The largest aquarium in Croatia is located in Split!
With over 130 different fish species, including freshwater fish, turtles and crocodiles, it’s a treat to visit
with your family or friends. They have a total of 22
aquariums containing various characteristic fish species from the Adriatic Sea, such as sharks, lobsters,
muraena and many more.QObala pomoraca, Vran‑
jic, tel. (+385-21) 24 71 15, info@aquariumsplit.
com, www.aquariumsplit.com. Open 10:00 22:00, June and September Open 10:00 - 20:00.
Tickets 50 - 75kn. Children under 4 free.
Bribirska 10, 21000 Split
+385 98 701 903
place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope
Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with
the only accepted language for Mass and official Church
business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of
debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the
middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side
of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as
Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the
cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero
and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see
the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by
another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north
gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for
Prokurative (Trg Republike)
Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neoRenaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the
southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the
harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during
the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision
of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by
the architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes
alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the
most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of
Split.QI‑2, Trg Republike.
vineyards in the hills above Skradin, produces boutique wines
that are highly sought-after. There’s also a growing wine industry around Imotski, whose blended reds and indigenous
Kujundžuša whites are increasingly highly rated - indeed
Imotski winemaker Grabovac has opened a wine bar in the
coastal resort of Makarska to promote the local tipple. What
follows is our list of ten places you should visit in order to get
an authentic flavour of the Dalmatian Zagora.
Ten must-visit places
The annual carnival processions Mačkara,
Photo by Boris Filipovic Grcic, Sinj Tourist Board Archives
When people think of Dalmatia they usually think of the
Adriatic coast, complete with its beaches, islands and swaying palm trees. What is often forgotten is that Dalmatia also
has a huge tract of inland territory, much of which is just as
exotic and just as interesting as the seaside but much less
visited, making it more than ripe for discovery.
Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian
Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind
the hills’, a reference to the mountains that run along a good
deal of the coast. Indeed much of the Zagora is a mountainous, arid place, known for the scrub-covered hills and rocky
wastes known as kamenjar (‘stone fields’) - but also for its
neat towns of stone houses and intensively cultivated islands
of agriculture. The Zagora may be a blind spot as far as tourists are concerned but it has never been so to the Dalmatians themselves, who have a high regard for its resourceful,
hard-working inhabitants. The inhabitants of the Zagora are
frequently termed vlaji by their coastal neighbours (a mocking reference to the Vlachs, the semi-nomadic sheep-rearers
who roamed the Balkan interior in centuries past), although
the term conveys a positive sense of hardy self-reliance as well
as country-bumpkin simplicity. The populations of the coastal
towns have always been fed by immigration from the interior,
and settlements such as Zadar, Šibenik and Split have always
faced two ways, serving as seafaring Mediterranean cities as
well as ‘capitals’ of their extensive hinterland.
Much of the Zagora’s haunting beauty comes from its extensive areas of arid, maquis-covered plateau. However it’s also
an area of much geological drama, with canyons and waterfalls around the Krka National Park and the Cetina Gorge, deep
mysterious lakes at Imotski, and tortured limestone features
almost everywhere. Roman remains at Burnum, and medieval
fortress at Drniš, Knin and Sinj, provide a sense of historical
depth. The gastronomy of the Zagora is also distinctive, placing more emphasis on sheep, cattle and freshwater fish than
the coastal parts of Dalmatia. The practice of roasting meats in
a lidded metal vessel covered in glowing embers is a Zagora
speciality, and is found almost everywhere inland. You also
come across numerous regional specialities: freshwater fish
inland from Omiš, slow-cooked veal risottos around Skradin, delicious home-cured pršut ham from Drniš, and frogs’
legs from Trilj. As far as local drink is concerned, Bibich, with
46 Split In Your Pocket
A pleasant market town midway between Šibenik and Knin,
Drniš is famous for its crag-hugging medieval fortress, and
the nearby village of Otavice, site of the Chapel of the Holy
Redeemer built by sculptor Ivan Meštrović to serve as his
family burial chapel.Qwww.tz-drnis.hr.
If there is one place in the Zagora you absolutely must visit
then it’s Imotski, an old Venetian town on the Hercegovinian
border that is renowned for the two natural wonders on the
edge of town, the Blue Lake (Modro jezero) and the Red Lake
(Crveno jezero). Both of them are dramatically deep depressions formed by the collapse of limestone caves, and filled
with water - the level of which rises and falls depending on
seepage and seasonal conditions. Extraordinarily beautiful in
real life, but difficult to convey in two dimensions, the Imotski
lakes are really something you have to go and see yourself.
riders wear traditional costume, and the whole occasion is
one of festive pageant.Qwww.visitsinj.com.
Located on the shores of Prokljansko Lake, just inland from
Šibenik, Skradin is both the gateway to the Krka National
Park and an attraction in itself - a typical Mediterranean
town made up of stone-paved streets and arched alleyways. There’s a lakeside marine full of yachts, and a handful of superb restaurants serving traditional Skradin cuisine.
The Cetina Gorge
Coastal Omiš is the place to take boat trips into the lower
reaches of the Cetina Gorge, where riverside restaurants
serve trout and other local delicacies. Travel agents in Omiš
also organize rafting trips on the higher, white-water sections of the Cetina. If you have a car, head for the inland town
of Zadvarje, where a lookout point above the upper parts
of the gorge offers dramatic views of waterfalls.Qwww.tzomis.hr.
Birthplace of the famously bohemian Croatian poet Tin
Ujević (1891-1955), Vrgorac is another small town that
sits beneath a medieval fort. The place is famous for the
number of surviving towers built by wealthy families and
military captains to serve as both living space and fortified
refuge. The nearby village of Kokorići, full of traditional stone
houses and dry stone walls, is being developed as an ethnovillage complete with accommodation, traditional inn and a
display of handicrafts.Qwww.tzvrgorac.hr.
Situated on the Vrličko polje plateau 66km inland from Split,
Vrlika is a typical Zagora market town sprawling around the
base of a fortress-capped hill. Vrlika is famous above all for
the Vrličko kolo, an energetic circle dance that’s considered
to be one of Croatia’s natural cultural treasures and features
on the repertoire of many a folklore group. The dance also
features in the Gotovac/Begović opera “Ero the Joker”, part
of which is set beside the Vrlika Fountain or Vrlička Česma,
located in the town park. The pre-Romanesque Church of
Holy Salvation, one of the most iconic early-medieval buildings in the whole country, is in the village of Cetina, 8km
northwest of Vrlika.Qwww.visitvrlika.com.
Nestling on the sleepy side of Mount Biokovo, the massif
that rises just inland from the Makarska Riviera, Zagvozd is
home to one of the oddest but longest-running of Croatia’s
cultural festivals, Actors in Zagvozd (Glumci u Zagvozdu;
July-August; www.glumciuzagvozdu.hr), when the cream
of the country’s thespian talent converges on this small
country town to perform plays and give recitals, often in the
open-air, and frequently to huge audiences. Drinking and
feasting usually follows; Zagvozd is well worth a visit during
the festival whether you’re following the plot or not.
A strategic railway-junction town lying in a bowl between
mountains, Knin is famous for the huge fortress, built in the
time of Croatian King Zvonimir, that hovers above town
from its suitably dramatic rock. With much of its walls intact,
it’s an extensive site, and comes with fantastic views of the
surrounding Zagora landscape.Qwww.tz-knin.hr.
Krka National Park
With wooden walkways leading past lakes and waterfalls,
and boat trips to monastic islands and haunting canyons,
Krka National Park is quite simply breathtaking, and can easily fill well over a day of holiday time - especially if you have
your own transport, in which case you can visit the Roman
ruins of Burnum and the wild, little-visited, northeastern
reaches of the park.Qwww.npkrka.hr.
A handsome old town lying half an hour’s drive inland from
Split, Sinj is home to a famously alluring, miracle-working
icon of the Virgin that hangs to the left of the main altar in
the main parish church. There’s also an old fortress that’s
well worth visiting on the hill above. On the first Sunday of
every August crowds from all over Dalmatia descend on Sinj
to witness the Alka, an age-old tournament in which horsemen gallop downhill with lances in their hands, hoping to
spear a ring that hangs above the end of the course. The
Dry Stone Wall
North of Split
Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me’ of Split, it’s a
fine pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with
its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and
squares. Our tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has
grand views for taking photos. For another step back in
time the town of Solin, which is an ancient Roman settlement and happens to be the birthplace of Emperor
Diocletian still has its well preserved amphitheatre, town
gate, fortress and other historical buildings.
Bavljenac - The whole island is covered in dry stone walls, Photo by Boris Kačan
A dry stone wall, fence or suhozid is a structure made of
natural stone without the use of a binding material such
as mortar. The construction of dry stone walls, and other
structures made without mortar, demand special skills and
traditions handed down over generations. They are a significant part of the cultural heritage of the greater Mediterranean area stretching back to ancient times.
In prehistoric times when neolithic farming took hold in the
European hinterland, former cave-dwelling people built
their homes, fences and animal shelters using wood. Meanwhile, in southern Europe and along the Mediterranean,
wood was in large part difficult to find, and due to frequent
droughts and resulting wildfires, wooden structures were
also impractical. Different building techniques developed
in these areas which took advantage of the plentiful stone
harvested from the rocky terrain. It was in this way that
dry stone construction began to shape Dalmatia and the
structures which dominate the area even today. In addition
to walls, the technique was used to build small dwellings;
fences encircling vineyards, arable land and pastures; and
in the construction of wells. The Premužić trail, a 57 kilometre-long path cutting through the highest peaks of northern and central Velebit, is yet another famous example of
mortarless architecture. Further advantages of this type of
construction is that they protect against soil erosion and
serve as shelter for various plants and animals; including,
lizards, snakes, frogs, bees and insects. Dry wall construction is a reflection of the diligent and often hard life of the
locals who collected the stones from the environment to
use in the myriad structures. But by doing so, agricultural
land and living space for animals would be cleaned of cumbersome stone. When building any dry stone structure, it
is of extreme importance to select the proper stones and
48 Split In Your Pocket
have them interlock accordingly to ensure durability and
When we talk about dry stone constructed shelters in Croatia, our attention must be turned to the kažun in Istria, the
komarda in the Kvarner region, bunja in Dalmatia and trim
on the island of Hvar. These circular-shaped huts and their
conical or stepped roofs were originally used as dwellings
for people, but later shifted their purpose to house agricultural tools, farm equipment, and ultimately as emergency
shelters for shepherds to take refuge from a passing storm.
If you wish to see examples of dry stone walls in the city of
Split, look no further than Marjan park. The city’s forested
park is intertwined with a network of mortarless walls and
fences that cover nearly the entire surface of the park. It
is also possible to run into examples of the circular field
houses typical of Dalmatia mentioned earlier.
In order to preserve and maintain this traditional form of
construction, the Dragodid project was launched. Dry
stone workshops are organized whereby participants can
learn traditional building techniques. If anyone is interested
in participating in one of the workshops, information can
be found on their website or FB page: www.dragodid.org.
The Dry Stone Workshop
The peak seasons for dry stone construction in Dalmatia are
the spring and fall. Construction subsides slighly during the
summer because the days are too hot. The dry stone workshop which is traditionally held on the first day of the Lav‑
ender Festival in Velo Grablje on the island of Hvar - this
year falls on Friday June 24th. For information regarding
the autumn workshops, please follow the Dragodid website and Facebook page.
Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is
located in the center of Dalmatia. It’s situated exactly
halfway in between the UNESCO protected cities Split
and Šibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is surrounded by picturesque fortifications, such as the quadrangular tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th century, Drid hill containing remnants of old stone houses
scattered throughout the former Dridske county, as well
as the St. Philip and Jacob’s Cave, famous for having been
visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The
Marina Riviera consists of three small picturesque Dalmatian towns: Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook
the crystal clear blue waters and sandy beaches. In the
surrounding Zagora region, original Dalmatian traditions
and customs, folklore costumes and local gastronomy are
still preserved. This area is rich in ancient olive groves and
is widely known for producing olive oil. As well, numerous
bike paths in this region allow for a great way to explore
this time-honoured area.
Novo mesto - Brač, Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Marina Tourist Board
QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15, [email protected]
, www.tz-marina.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
08:00 - 12:00.
Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away,
Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible
historical and architectural traditions, both of which have
been built upon by a progression of generations during the
past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one
encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance
architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores
and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation
of architectural styles from different eras. Founded in the 3rd
century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was
an important port in the region until well into the Roman
era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir
underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods
of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from
1420 to 1797. While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city
Orson Welles filmed “The Merchant of Venice” in Trogir in 1969.
Jean Marais during the filming of the
romantic-adventure film “Goubbiah, mon amour.”
More information about the film history of Trogir can be found at:
www.trogirtimetravel.blogspot.hr. Look under Trogir Time Travel Kamera! (atr) Akcija!
today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the
walls of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the
churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the
Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence
and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and
Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral
in 1240. The cultural and historical significance of the town
and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the
United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites,
marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history. While
traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing,
this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely
be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.
Trogir Tourist Board
QTrg Ivana Pavla II/1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, [email protected]
, www.tztrogir.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.
Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends
eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns
and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slatina, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is connected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center
of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is
made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name
of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since
both places are distributed along a circular bay. The numerous bays and beaches have made this area one of the most
popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with beautiful
spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting activities are
offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving, water skiing,
paragliding, as well as fitness centers and tennis courts.
After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine, there are
numerous restaurants and bars along the coast, with great
music, for a fun night out.
Okrug Tourist Board
QBana Josipa Jelačića 15, Okrug Gornji, tel. (+385-21)
88 73 11, [email protected]
Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 19:00.
Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as ‘Kaštela’
(Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along
route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing
to (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Novi,
Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Štafilć). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would take the better part of a
day to check out their interesting architectural features. Of
particular interest is the newly built Marina Kaštela which
accommodates private and charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac,
sits the oldest defensive fortress which was built in 1392
by the Archbishop of Split A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in
front of the church, there is an oak tree over 700 years old,
under which, according to the legend, Croatian king Zvonimir rested. And that’s just the beginning. All are accessible
Kaštela Tourist Information Centre
QObala kralja Tomislava 14, Kaštel Stari, tel. (+38521) 23 20 44/(+385-21) 22 79 33, [email protected]
www.kastela-info.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.
Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres
outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and
the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its
primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace
of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now,
erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days
there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early
history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with
Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have
attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the
town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the
title of “Croatia’s Pompeii”.
Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos
factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations
exposing the remains of the former Roman town located
nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town
a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the
possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two
thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism,
Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its
natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that
are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you’re
not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the
end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir
and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored
there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in
the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.
Solin Tourist Board
QKralja Zvonimira 69, tel. (+385-21) 21 00 48, [email protected]
, www.solin-info.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on
50 Split In Your Pocket
sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view
of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with
the A-1 motorway. Partially restored and now an outdoor
museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It
will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and
soak in the great views in every direction. There is a café
right below the fortress.
Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area
but never succeeding in taking the fortress. The Ottoman
Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you
visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely.
Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage
through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast
to the hinterland.
Klis Tourist Board
QMegdan 57, tel. (+385-21) 24 05 78, tz[email protected]
, www.tzo-klis.htnet.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
South of Split
Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omiš, yet
another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline
to serenity. Omiš is home to the river Cetina which hosts
action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing,
white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls
and more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town
one embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd
seagull ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a
whistle and face some of the islands.
Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split.
It’s well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch
along a 9km coastline making it an attractive location
to visit. Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive
orchards, vineyards and numerous peach trees create a
beautiful Mediterranean town.
The first settlements in this area can be traced back to
the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium. The turbulent
history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish invasions, can be seen from the numerous archaeological excavations and the remains of buildings and monuments
from the different time periods. Historical monuments,
such as the Church of St. George, the Castle of Cindro and
the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the 18th century,
are still standing today in between the various hotels and
podstrana Tourist Board
QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, info@
tz-podstrana.hr, www.tz-podstrana.hr. Open 07:00 21:00, Sun 08:00-14:00.
Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies
offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the
same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and historical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, wineries, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm
they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The
beaches are second to none with Brač, Hvar and Šolta just
some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different
story to tell.
Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to
have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis
courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from
Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special
places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life
has been largely maintained to the present day. This means
that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys
are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in
the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace
of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia,
which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal
environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island,
not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish.
The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning
and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared
52 Split In Your Pocket
The Vranjača cave
The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The
first, the existence of which was already known in the
19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903 by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this
plot of land. This part consists of a system of nine smaller
chambers in colours ranging from green through blue,
some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals.
The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round. Vranjača is suitable for
visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways
and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The
cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature
lovers from all over. The cave, Vranjača, is located in the
foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern
side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved
road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the
hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m
path to the entrance of the cave. The cave is open from
15th March to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June,
July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September),
10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrangement (November - March). Guided tours, which last
about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for
adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098
74 90 00 for more information.
for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent
homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to
sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not
survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well.
The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing,
and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive
groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere,
nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or
as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone.
Šolta Tourist Board
QObala sv. Tereze 3, Rogač, Šolta, tel. (+385-21) 65
46 57, [email protected]
, www.visitsolta.com. Open
07:00 - 21:00.
Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain
of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split,
retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town,
Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija
car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on
the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar,
which is on the northwest.
If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most
famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south
side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people.
It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a
less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach
at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the
middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the
mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a
medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for
Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač.
Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia
are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture
and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the
Middle Ages. Škrip’s Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules.
Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač,
you could extend your activities from what’s listed above
to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century
Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in
Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and
Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the
Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike,
is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in
1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a
steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and
54 Split In Your Pocket
the summit of Brač’s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca
indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village
of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that
starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach
the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1
km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol
road. If you don’t have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle’s suspension. Both trails are well marked,
which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the
round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca’s ascetic architecture
and splendid isolation. Hikers also might want to climb
to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest
mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked
trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted
road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol
road just east of the town of Nerežišća. The views from
the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent
equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend
a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the
Croatian Adriatic.If you are going to be on Brač for a week
there’s much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic
types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the
attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce
their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side
of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on
the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All
of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the
seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters;
medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates
and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes
and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree
orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of
Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers.
You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There
are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking; check with
a travel bureau about where that is possible. Brač white
marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed
that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the
American White House. And of course, it was used in the
building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible
- a tort lawyer’s dream.
There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva
(Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac. Even if you had more than a week
to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to
do. You could spend many more days just driving around
or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.
Supetar Tourist Information Centre
QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, [email protected]
www.supetar.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to
Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to
Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, you can
still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south
of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of
Hvar. If you’re coming from the north, you can also get to
Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik
which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section.
Things to see and do:
Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands
in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and
on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of
small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are
only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.
Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar
city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.
The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting
name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and
Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers
with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering
a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the
Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek
below, it’s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards
bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon
walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar, you’ll encounter historical charm
with the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local masters Karlić and Pomenić and the
centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form.
On the northern slope above the square are the partially
preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the
southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian
church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th
century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls
lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal
Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is
the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy
(1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside
this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the
most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main
altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331. Located
under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley.
On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612,
one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by
the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery
in Hvar is well known for it’s craftsmanship of unique lace
56 Split In Your Pocket
made from agave fibres.
Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one
of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within
Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender,
heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant
experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar
presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of
lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you
the opportunity for a thorough exploration.
Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on
a route which passes alongside the island and today’s ferry
port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in
Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here
is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early
Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).
Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first
hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points
of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum.
It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the
Fields which was formed around a square and its current
look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries.
The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa. If
you set out on a journey into the interior of the island not
far from Jelsa, you’ll come across the small villages of Pitve,
Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their appearance and peacefulness.
Only 7km east of Jelsa, you’ll find the abandoned village of
Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and
they’re completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital
prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C.
Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of
the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call
Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to it’s small bridges with which
it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is
worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the
Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide
art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano
Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and
the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini. On the northern part
of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach,
then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches
of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head
to the southern side of the island you must pass through
a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside a place
called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You’ll
come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro,
Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at
both ends. With a call you’d know if there was a car waiting
to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light
in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get
from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the
tunnel you’ll get to the southern side of the island which is
beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the
‘Plavac Mali’ (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja,
Franceska Zambarlin Cambarlinova (1900 – 1988),
Forgotten Faces of Komiža
“Forgotten Faces of Komiža”
For Easter 2010, Dinko Božanić organized an interactive exhibition of
40 selected photographs titled “Forgotten Faces of Komiža” at Komiža’s
public reading room. Next to each photo was a pencil and piece of
paper where the exhibition visitors wrote everything they knew about
the faces in the photographs. In addition to basic information, such
as name and surname, they could also write other facts: address,
profession, hobbies, anecdotes with which they remember them by…
Grohote old part, Šolta Tourist Board Archives
Zavala. On this southern side of the island you can bathe
on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated
between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On
island’s eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which
is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service
58 Split In Your Pocket
Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and
best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and
now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the
old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the
sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side.
The island’s mountains aren’t very high, however, with their
coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for
any hiker’s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain
hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving.
Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in
these areas, the history of which stretches back far into
the past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties
‘Bogdanuša’ and ‘Drenkuša’ which can not be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the
cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali’ due to its sunny hillsides which
give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality
wine ‘Zlatan Plavac’ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine
estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid
2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the
Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates.
Stari Grad Tourist Board
QObala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-21) 76 57 63,
Open 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00,
17:00 - 21:00.
The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas
in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for
foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely
remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of
The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets
of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in
the east, Sušac.
Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its
fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent
place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty,
or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.
The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car,
you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip
takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be
purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets
can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest
towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with
a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop,
on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the
bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For
those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus
connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split.
Things to see and do:
The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abansplit.inyourpocket.com
don and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the
marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest
sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of
Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t
miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the
Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia.
One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek
colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The
ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of
the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and
you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological
Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress
“Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s Battery) also known for
its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its
bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis.
The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the
churches of St Cyprian (Sv. Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit,
the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and
the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja.
Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end
of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress,
which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church
in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the
village offering a spectacular view of below.
The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the
township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone
huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which
has conserved its exceptional form.
Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina
(Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja
(Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the
marvel that it is.
And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and
enjoy a true marine experience!
It’s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”. It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele),
a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans
(brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina
na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas
(artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two
month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a
Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year
round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of
the grape and fennel spirits. And, let’s not forget the island’s
charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the
delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel.
Vis Tourist Board
QŠetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, tzg-visa@
st.t-com.hr, www.tz-vis.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 21:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croa- to defend the town against attacks from Turkish intia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River vaders), churches and other structures dating back
winds a tortuous course through the countryside as far as the 13th century.
until it finally empties into the Adriatic. The mouth In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are
of the river passes through an impressive gorge near located within the old city walls and include the
the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and pic- church of St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost
turesque town that is the center of what has become and the church of St. Rocco. The remaining churchknown as “the Omiš Riviera.” However, things were es are located outside of the old city walls and innot always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety clude the church of St. Peter, the church of St. Luke
because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or and the church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš
Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the cemetery. The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at
area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the
their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily church of St. John in Borak. The Fortress (Tvrđava)
into the mouth of the river.
is located on top of Dinara mountain and offers an
While it’s true that today yachts are more likely enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon
to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera of the Cetina River to the islands of Brač, Hvar and
than a group of fast-traveling pirate ships, there’s Šolta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica.
still plenty of adventure to be had
And when you’re finished exploring
in Omiš. The mountainous ar- OMIŠ Tourist Board the natural beauty of Omiš and it’s
eas around the town make for great
history, the town’s central location
Trg kneza Miroslava b.b.,
hiking spots, the water is an invitmakes it a perfect starting point for
tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50,
ing crystalline blue and the history
the rest of your Dalmatian coast
of the town can be explored in the
adventure, hopefully minus any
remnants of fortresses (like Mirabedreams of terrorizing the seas as a
la, which the Corsairs of Omiš used
modern-day Corsair of Omiš.
60 Split In Your Pocket
Makarska Tourist Board Archives
Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like
leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great
long stretch of pure hedonism.
If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white
pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. You’ll
pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges
through a spectacular canyon into the sea.
Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old,
some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela
a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the
looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makarska Riviera, and this is where you’ll find some of the most
photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic.
This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine
per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an average year-round temperature of 20˚C reaching summertime peaks of 23-27˚C.
Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy
and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood, chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you
can enjoy the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other
times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus
fruits and cherries. And of course, there’s plenty of local
Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly
old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since
the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under
threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built
their village on high ground under the protective shoulders
of the mountains.
After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these
ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a
new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The building of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of
the most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in
In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was
lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a
treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular
mountain settings, they have great architectural and ethnological value. The village way of life was synonymous
with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention
agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic
As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the resorts in this guide, from Makarska it’s an easy ride to some
larger places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd,
Imotski (with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous
for its seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well
as the well-preserved historical village of Kokorići.
Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of
heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle. Take a
trip inland and discover the age-old culture of the region.
Take a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Brač and
Hvar islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or indulge in a wealth of watersports. Summertime calls!
Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska
Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants,
in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town.
With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in hoSummer 2016
Arriving on the
The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km
away. The airport is served by domestic and international scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer. For timetable information, see www.
split-airport.hr. To get to Makarska you’ll need
to take a bus or hire a car. For more information
about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split.
By car: if you take the A1 motorway, take the
Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in
one direction for a car from Split, 171kn from Zagreb. From Split, there is also the Adriatic highway.
Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš
if you’re travelling at the weekend during peak
By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb,
Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from
Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor.com.
By train: Makarska is not served by the railway
network. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče,
then transfer by bus. Rail timetable information:
By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin
on Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from
Sućuraj on Hvar island. For information see www.
Main Bus Station
(Autobusni kolodvor Makarska)
There is one desk for information and tickets, open
daily 05:00 - 22:30. The manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the same working hours as the
ticket office, price 5kn per hour per item.QAnte
Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33.
Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk
On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry
tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska,
tel. (+385-21) 67 95 15, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open
07:00 - 21:00.
Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports
From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the
island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj)
you need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi
transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out
62 Split In Your Pocket
tels, campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is popular with young people and families with children. There’s
plenty to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that
transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertainment laid on.
Baška Voda’s ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a
mound just uphill from the waterfront. The names on ancient gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited
since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks traded here and the Romans settled here - the latter named
the town Aronia.
Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this
coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the
bastions still standing today. This is the site of important
archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery
and glass, which you can see in the town museum. There’s
also a museum of shells - the Malacological Museum.
The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by
fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje,
where today there’s a large camp site. However, there are
still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine
direct from the barrel - just bring your own container!
When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aronia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside
villages of Bast and Topići - themselves largely depopulated since the 1962 quake. Nowadays, the architectural
and cultural value of these villages has been recognised:
Topići has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heritage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to
stay. Both will charm you with their folk architecture and
delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some
authentic Dalmatian cuisine in old-fashioned taverns.
They’re also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak
(1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path
that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna,
Bratuš and Krvavica.
QBaška Voda Tourist Board, Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel.
(+385-21) 62 07 13, [email protected]
, www.baskavoda.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. From September 15
Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly
close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling
effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump
in and enjoy them is irresistible.
This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands
for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters
great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative
scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches
here have won numerous international accolades.
Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with
fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela
developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside
homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good
hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head
up the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement. A local society is dedicated to preserving and
showcasing the culture of old Brela: it’s well worth taking
a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into
their visitor centre where you can find out about the old
churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted
around. Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point
for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure
sports challenges. You’ll find maps and information at the
information centre that’s also located there.
QBrela Tourist Board, Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel.
(+385-21) 61 84 55, [email protected]
Open 08:00 - 21:00.
29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with
the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is
dotted with coves and sandy bays. It’s peaceful, friendly
and the scenery is gorgeous - it’s a great place for a peaceful holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you
can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island - it’s best if you have
some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by
a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St. George in
the old hillside settlement.
QDrvenik Tourist Board, Donja Vala 241, tel. (+38521) 62 82 00, [email protected]
Open 08:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.
When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we’ve
come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again,
several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well
as Gradac itself there’s Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and
Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back resort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to
choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies
in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric
mounds you’ll find a 16th century defensive tower in Čista
and the old chapel of St. Pascal on Plana hill. A point of
significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monastery of St. Mary. The monk and poet Andrija Kačić Miošić
lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very
popular book of folk verse which both served as a historical document and helped develop the modern Croatian
QGradac Tourist Information Centre, Trg Soline 11,
tel. (+385-21) 69 73 75. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Gradac
Tourist Board, [email protected]
As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Makarska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Makarska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around
a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants. Sailors
and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll
lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the formidable Biokovo mountains above.
There’s a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sunshine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the
houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the
coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by
Squid, Photo by Višnja Arambašić
refreshing breezes, it’s not hard to see why tourists started
to arrive at the turn of the 20th century.
The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the
period following the Second World War. Sometimes large
but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine forests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and
the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a
healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their
Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed
to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying
the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars
and clubs. But escapists can still find tranquil corners and
experiences off the mass tourist radar.
There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun.
The city’s roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when
it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the
Cretans. The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave
their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The
Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD.
The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the
Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccurum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality,
which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed
long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French
and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the
territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix
of historic buildings you see today.
Perhaps the most important historic building in the town
is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a
Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some
spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The
Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The
town’s main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St. Mark,
an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront
you’ll find the town museum and the Church of St. Philip.
The church of St. Peter resides on a green headland in a delightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about
What’s more, it’s well worth exploring the mountainside
villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and
Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for
centuries from invaders approaching from the sea. You’ll
come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used
by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at
Kotišina. It was founded by Father Jure Radić, the Franciscan monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum
of Shells. Father Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo
which is just one option for a spectacular hike.
Although largely depopulated following a strong earthquake in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to
renovate and revive the original customs and culture of
the upland villages. With amazing views over the coast
and islands, these are wonderful places to enjoy some
peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences.
QMakarska Tourist Board, Obala kralja Tomislava
16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, [email protected]
hr, www.makarska-info.hr. Open 07:30 - 22:00.
Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic
peaks, it’s not hard to see how Podgora got its name,
which means under the mountain.
With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradition dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place
of 1,500 souls which swells more than fivefold in the
summer - it’s second only to Makarska when it comes to
tourist numbers. It’s not hard to see why: the combination of white shingle, green pine and rocky grey mountain are a tourist’s holy trinity.
This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly
performances from mid-June to the end of August: classical music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock
and folk dance performances bring drama and culture
to warm evenings. As elsewhere, Podgora’s inhabitants
for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection
and sustenance. The attractive old inland settlement of
Gornja Podgora is worth looking round and serves as an
entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park.
Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the following places also fall within the Podgora district:
Drašnice - a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300
souls here. There’s a choice of pebbly coves, and with a
little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the
coves there’s a cave named Medvidina where a local fisherman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal - a
critically endangered species.
Igrane - barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant
little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely
long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the
Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between
the Venetians and the Turks. There’s a picturesque waterfront and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive
64 Split In Your Pocket
With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area is
an unbeatable playground for adventure sports. Cycling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks
to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite
its allure, you might rather avoid the narrow, bendy,
often overcrowded Adriatic coastal highway: accidents are all to frequent. Better pick a route through
the old hillside villages - details in the nearest tourist
board office. In the Biokovo mountains a tarmac road
runs 23km from the park entrance to the Sveti Jure
peak (again, watch out for traffic; helmets are mandatory). There’s also an 8km gravel track from Staza to
Saranač, as well as belts cleared of trees to prevent
the spread of fires around the edge of the Nature
Park. A 5km coastal path from Makarska to Tučepi is
perfect for a gentler ride. Still on dry land, there are
scenic and interesting hiking trails in the Biokovo
Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock climbers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omiš. There are also
climbing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska
and on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above
the earth, there are two paragliding take-off points
at Miletin bor and Pržinovac in the Biokovo Nature
Park. Water babies will love a refreshing ride on a
raft along the fast-flowing Cetina river. And then,
of course, there’s the sea. You can sail (or learn to),
or surf, or windsurf. You can ride a jet ski, or launch
yourself in the air behind one on a paraglider. You
can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy a spot of sea
fishing. Whichever you choose, we assure you the
experience will be unforgettable.
Živogošće - Now we’re 20 km away from Split, heading
south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five
tiny hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava.
Newer homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the
water; the older settlements are on the upper side of the
QPodgora Tourist Board, Andrije Kačića Miošića 2,
tel. (+385-21) 67 89 42, [email protected]
tz-podgora.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime
enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera - a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling
easy access into the dazzling blue water.
Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera - the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after
the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of
invasion. You’ll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers
and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman
armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone
buildings. In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy
locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The
best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is
today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911
became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers’ Collective,
founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father
Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him
and the association that Tučepi’s olive oil is rumoured to
be the best on this stretch of coast. Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century.
Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta
rooftops, there’s a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A
summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St. Anthony’s day (Tučepi’s patron saint), while the ka Kultura
festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići
QTučepi Tourist Board, Donji ratac bb, tel. (+385-21)
62 31 00, [email protected]
July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00. June, September
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca)
A private museum in a traditional family home in Gradac,
a village in the far south of the Makarska Riviera. The idea
of setting up a museum has been alive for generations in
the Andrijašević family, and collecting and displaying the
material has been a labour of love, aided by donations of
items from helpful neighbours. Mainly consisting of everyday objects testifying to the way of life in the 19th and
20th centuries, there are five collections: fishing, cooking,
carpentry, sailing and music. There are also fragments
from a Roman villa rustica. There’s a lovely collection of
folk costumes, and everything is displayed in authentic
surroundings.QUz Kuk 6, Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75
61, [email protected]
com. June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - Au‑
gust 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission free.
Makarska Town Museum
(Gradski muzej Makarska)
Makarska’s town museum is a great place to find out about
the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and summertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region
from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth
of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the
customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli
Palace, is a historic treasure in itself.QObala kralja Tomis‑
lava 17/1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, [email protected]
index.htm. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed
Sun. Admission 10kn.
The Archaeological Museum Collection
(Arheološka muzejska zbirka)
Traces of human habitation on the Makarska Riviera coast
date back to the Neolithic age. This museum covers the
Marineta - Mala obala 16
tel./fax: +385 (0)21 616 924
Photo by Ivo Pervan (PPB Archives)
period from these prehistoric beginnings up to the 7th
century AD. The nations that settled and passed through
here during that time include the Illyrians, the Greeks, the
Romans and the Slavs. This makes for an interesting mix of
artefacts in this pleasant little museum, with some highly
attractive pieces on display.QBlato 12, Baška Voda, tel.
(+385-21) 62 06 95, toni.[email protected]
. Open 09:00 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Admission free.
The Malacological Museum
(Malakološki muzej Makarska)
Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the
Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and
monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in
the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to
scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden
beauty in the world around us (including under the sea),
Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind
in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that
studies molluscs - a large branch of the animal kingdom
that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus
and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are
about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of
There’s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo
mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of
shells includes some spectacular specimens from the
Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the
world. So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a curious passer-by, there’s sure to be something that will
take your breath away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska,
tel. (+385-21) 61 12 56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open
10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admis‑
sion 10 - 15kn.
The Malacological Museum
Baška Voda’s Malacological Museum, like that in Makarska,
has a collection of molluscs not only from the depths of the
Adriatic but also from other seas around the world.QSrida
3, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 02 61. Open 10:00 - 12:00,
18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3 - 5kn.
The Museum of Fish, Crustaceans and
Molluscs (Muzej riba, rakova i školjki)
A little different in scope to the Malacological Museum,
this institution collects only local specimens and collects
fish and crustaceans (e.g. crabs, lobsters and prawns) as
well as molluscs. The collection includes some 200 specimens including some incredibly rare and interesting
beasties.QUlica fra Filipa Grabovca bb (Listun), Ma‑
karska, tel. (+385-) 091 596 88 98. Open 09:00 - 13:00,
17:00 - 22:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.
The Antun Gojak Town Gallery
(Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka)
The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by
66 Split In Your Pocket
Biokovo is pretty much the mother lode of culture
and general fabulousness in this part of Dalmatia.
Nature park covers most of the mountain range and
has a number of information centres and educational
trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to
buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarska - Vrgorac road. You can drive up there, but the best way to
explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple
of precautions: the terrain is rugged - wear strong
shoes or hiking boots. The summer heat and sun can
be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat,
sun protection and plenty of water. Outside of the
summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast:
the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force.
Presentation centre: tel.(+385-21) 62 51 36.
Gornja Brela Presentation Centre
Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park, open
to visitors by prior arrangement.
Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother
Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van
Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life
itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town
gallery in the building of the former grammar school.
Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the
collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the
Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s
cultural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makar‑
ska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, [email protected]
www.galerija-antun-gojak.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary
(Crkva Gospe od Ružarija)
The slender bell tower of Our Lady is a startlingly pretty
sight perched on a hill above this coastal village. The
church dates back to 1752 but was significantly extended
in the 20th century. The bell tower was built between 1923
and 1925: a wedding-cake-like construction with four layers of columns encasing an open staircase. It’s not unlike
the famous campanile of St Duje in Split. Apart from a collection of furniture and implements dating from the 18th
century, the church has stained glass windows added in
2001 created according to the designs of two contemporary Croatian artists.QIgrane, nr. Podgora.
Church of St Anthony of Padua
(Crkva sv. Anutna Padovanskog)
The hillside hamlet of Srida sela has a large and impressive parish church built between 1898 and 1901 to serve
all the hamlets that make up Gornji Tučepi. Even though
the hamlets were largely depopulated following the 1962
quake, this is still the parish church of the Tučepi area.
It’s built in quite a different style to most Dalmatian churches: it has a pale lemon façade with a neo-Classical doorway,
plaster mouldings and a large semicircular window in the
frontage. The church’s ceiling is painted with images of
the Assumption and of St Anthony of Padua, and all windows are in stained glass. A statue of Friar Ante Gilić, who
constructed the church, stands at the bottom of the nave.
QSrida sela, Gornji Tučepi, tel. (+385-21) 62 32 51.
Church of St Philip Neri
(Crkva sv. Filipa Nerija)
You’ll find this little church and its bell tower seemingly
interspersed between two houses right on the waterfront.
Its construction was initiated in the 18th century by Bishop
Stjepan Blašković, originally as part of the complex of the
Monastery of the Sacred Oratory which was later burned
down. Bishop Blašković is buried by the main altar here,
as is his nephew, Bishop Fabijan Blašković. A local legend
has it that one night the sound of the organ playing softly
was heard emanating from the locked church. The townspeople interpreted this as a sign from Bishop Stjepan that
he’d like to be moved. They opened his grave and to their
surprise they found his body perfectly preserved. They interpreted this as a miracle, although a likely explanation is
the action of sea salt. Whichever way, the grave was closed
and the eerie organ music was never heard again.QObala
kralja Tomislava (50m from Hotel Biokovo), Makarska.
Church of St Stephen the Martyr
(Crkva sv. Stjepana prvomučenika)
At the end of the 19th century, a growing population
along the seashore at Brela was in need of a church, so the
Church of St Stephen was built in 1889 on the site of an
older church. Standing in a thicket of pine, it’s a pleasant
stone building with a pure white belltower added in the
1950s. The interior is beautifully airy, its light walls spangled with colour from colourful stained-glass windows.
The main altar was carved in marble in 1897 by a stonemason from Split. An altarpiece depicting St Stephen, St
George, St John and St Paul dates back to 1890 and is the
work of an Italian painter. An altar to Our Lady was bought
in Venice in 1825. Mass: 08:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00, 20:00.
QDonje Selo, Brela, tel. (+385-21) 61 86 18. Open 08:00
- 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.
St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka)
Viewed from a distance, the terracotta-tipped belfry of St
Mark’s Church marks Makarska’s central square, the heart
of the town. It is sometimes referred to as Makarska’s cathedral, since right up to 1828 Makarska had its own bishop who had his seat here. Since 1828 Makarska has part of
the Archdiocese of Split-Makarska. The bishop has his seat
in Split, so nowadays St Mark’s has the status of a co-cathedral or collegiate church: a church with no bishop but
otherwise similar in importance to a cathedral. Its interior
is certainly impressive. Construction of the church started
in 1700 and it was consecrated in 1756 although never
completely finished. The Makarska bishops began creating a religious treasury befitting the status of the diocese,
resulting in a wonderful collection of religious artworks
and liturgical items created by craftsmen from Venice, Italy
and Austria as well as local masters. In common with the architectural treasures of the town, much of the religious collection reflects the Baroque spirit prevalent at the time of its
creation. The treasury is an important chronicle not only the
development of the Catholic Church during that era but also
of trade relations and cultural exchange.QTrg fra Andrije
Kačića-Miošića, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 13 65.
St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole)
This church consecrated to the patron saint of Baška Voda
sits at the top of an elegant sweep of stairs in the centre
of town. It was built in 1889 in a neo-Romantic style. Two
small bells sit atop the church frontage, while the bell tower to the right was added in 1991. In 1987 colourful stained
glass windows by contemporary painter Josip Botteri Dini
were installed, and a year later modern paintings of the
Stations of the Cross painted by Josip Bifel.QObala sv.
Nikole 73, Baška Voda.
The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
(Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na
The pretty and unspoilt shoreline at Zaostrog is graced
with the harmonious form of a large monastery with considerable historical and cultural significance. It was home
to Andrija Kačić-Miošić, the friar, philosopher, teacher and
poet from nearby Brist for most of his life - he is buried in
the church here. The monastery in Zaostrog was originally
founded in the 13th century by a community of Hermits
of St. Augustine who left in the face of Turkish invasions.
A Franciscan community, itself displaced from Bosnia, settled in the abandoned building in 1468 and are still there
today (not the same ones, of course). They worked hard to
expand and rebuild their monastery when fate deemed
it necessary, building a library that now has over 20,000
volumes, and running schools and a seminary for over five
centuries. Today there is an excellent museum here, which,
apart from the library, holds ethnographic and liturgical
collections, an archive that includes valuable Turkish documentation, and a gallery of works by local artist Mladen
Veža.QObala hrvatskih rodoljuba 36, Zaostrog (nr.
Gradac), tel. (+385-21) 62 92 00, branko.brnas@gmail.
com, www.samostan-zaostrog.com. Open by prior ar‑
The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
(Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na
The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were
frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely
monastery you see today came into being. The old monasSummer 2016
tian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron
railings and old-fashioned lanterns.QMakarska.
Brela, village Medici, from the private collection Duje Medic
Tučepi, Photo by Višnja Arambašić
tery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone
wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served
as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of
the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which
today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals,
manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr.
Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation
of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still
active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions,
is a respected institution with good links with similar
museums around the world. The Institute also has a
herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic
regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21)
61 22 59, www.franjevci-split.hr.
Kalalarga (Široka ulica)
Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga
– a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by
modern standards, but back in the day this was the very
core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town,
the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome
shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalma68 Split In Your Pocket
Kostanić’s Grave (Kostanića grob)
The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery
surrounding these stones, which date from the period
between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from
Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter
of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel
which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who
loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news.
This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr. Drvenik.
Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik
Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue
was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary
of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola
Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along
the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the
female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes,
it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good
luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists
the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.
Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip
don Mihovila Pavlinovića)
For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.
And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don
Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who
became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival,
a political movement campaigning for the right to selfdetermination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of
Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after
him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an
unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful
style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.
Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole)
Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the
town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know
that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s
grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches
sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in
Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra)
Watching protectively over Makarska’s waterfront from a
forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle.
In case you’re wondering, that key he’s holding in his hand
there is to Heaven’s gate, so you might like to be on your
best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by
Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated
as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave
him meant “the Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He
went on to become the founder of the Church and the first
pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful
spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a
walk.QSt Peter’s Peninsula, Makarska.
Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac
(Kameni stup za zastavu))
Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column
bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for
a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows
that the post was built during times of peace.QIn front of
the Tonoli Palace, Makarska.
Stone Tower (Kamena kula)
During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than
200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived
in constant fear of raids. It’s not unusual, driving around
the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built
to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings,
creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.
QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac.
The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument
(Spomenik fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću)
Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the Croatian language pretty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, it’s
no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of
place on Makarska’s central square. His statue’s plinth has
a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a
recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić, the monument’s
creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one
of Croatia’s greatest sculptors. The coats-of-arms you see
featured on the mosaic are of all the countries mentioned
by the poet in his famous songbook, “Pleasant Conversation of the Slavic Peoples”. This expression of national consciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these lands, but
it didn’t go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy
of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally
added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected.
Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south
of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and
a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the
development of the modern Croatian language. All in all,
a smashing bloke, you could say!QTrg fra Andrije KačićaMiošića, Makarska.
The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin)
Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were
founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most
prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making
tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of
millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi.
The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela)
A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s
gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the
natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey
rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they
melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual
that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity. The
rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing
please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.
The Seagull’s Wing Monument
(Spomenik Galebova krila)
On a hillside high above Podgora’s harbour is a striking
piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagull’s Wing
monument. During the Second World War, Podgora became the headquarters of the Partisans’ flotilla, which
helped defeat the Axis forces in what became Yugoslavia. This monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the
20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created
by sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the bird in flight
symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its
bent right wing represents those who fell in battle. The
monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives
fighting against fascism.QPodgora.
The Venetian Water Fountain
A spectacular stone structure in front of St Mark’s Church
featuring three lions’ heads spouting water from their
mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the
fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occupied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible
for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts
of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public
water fountain - this is where people came to get their
supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a
little juicy gossip along the way. Today the splash of the
water refreshes the square on the hottest summer day.
QTrg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska.
The Ivanišević Family Palace
(Barokna palača obitelji Ivanišević)
Of all the Baroque buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević
Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest
citizens used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs,
the palace has a galleried courtyard at its centre. It’s
privately-owned and not open to the public.QLištun,
The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli)
The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Venetian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it
houses Makarska’s Town Museum, and you’ll also find the
Tourist Association office here. Again, it’s in the local Baroque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and a
romantic balcony at the front.QObala kralja Tomislava
PLAN YOUR ACTIVITIES
WITH OUR PREVIEW
Split and its surrounding area is known for its pristine
and beautiful beaches, from sandy beaches in the city
that are suitable for families with children, to almost untouched open pebbled beaches suitable for adventure
and nature lovers. In Split itself, under the Marjan, the
beaches are named Bene, Kašjuni and Kaštelet; locals
will tell you that without doubt the most famous beach
is Bačvice, where you can play the traditional home
game picigin. The islands within the Split archipelago
are home to some sublime beaches; you can swim and
have fun on the scenic beach Zlatni rat in Bol, on the
island of Brač. This picturesque beach has been declared
the most beautiful beach in Croatia and it is unique in
that it changes its shape and position, depending from
where the wind blows. The island of Biševo on the south
side hides the Porat Bay which is remotely visited as it
can only be reached by boat. The bays around the little island Proizd, near Korčula, bare the unusual sight
of white rocks, a turquoise sea and fresh salty aroma in
On the way to Makarska, visitors will come across a series of charming beaches, we simply have to highlight
Punta Beach or the so-called Velika plaža in Omiš,
Punta Rata in Brela, and Nikolina Beach in Baška Voda.
For those craving some Full Monty, a nudist beach we
definitely recommend is the Nugal Beach on the Osejava peninsula.
Heading inland and away from the coastline, adrenaline
aficionados will find it tough to choose in what to do
first with the abundant range of adventure activities on
offer. The Omiš area (Biokiovo, Mosor) and Cetina canyon is known for rafting, cannoning, canoe safari,
trekking, paragliding, free climbing and the audacious adrenaline zip line right over the river. If you crave
something on wheels, then there is ATV or Quad safari
on the islands of Čiovo near Split. It is here that the new
discipline of Deep Water Soloing can be attempted also.
The islands are best known for cycling tours, diving,
and kayaking at sea. Bol on Brač is particularly known
as a destination for kite and wind surfing. The thrill is
real we tell you!
Last but not least, for something more tranquil there
are wellness centres with vast services including (massage, sauna, swimming pools, jacuzzi and spas) which
can be found within the five star hotels and resorts
which are in the vicinity of Split.
So there’s plenty to do from leisure to adventure, pick ,n,
choose and enjoy the cruise!
70 Split In Your Pocket
Paintings and sculptures by the Split-born academic painter
Neno Mikulić whose distinctive artistic style and sculptures
of ladies, sailors and ships can never go unnoticed.QC‑2,
Teslina 14b, tel. (+385-) 091 515 25 75, nenomikulic@
gmail.com. Open by prior arrangement. N
The owner and father, Dražen, is a known stonemasonry,
the mother Ida Stipčić Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son
Lovre, an academic sculptor and their daughter Dina has
a doctoral degree in arts. Their ancestors created the first
stonemasonry workshop 112 years ago in 1903. Their gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculptures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by
Dina.QD‑2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-21) 64 77 10/(+38521) 64 78 57, [email protected]
. Open 09:00 13:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A
Split artist Danijel Jaman’s original, vibrant and colourful
paintings representing scenes of the Mediterranean, sailing boats, world city landmarks, and more. Eye-catching
artwork!QI‑2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-)
098 32 27 19, [email protected]
, www.jamanart.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A
A small yet very lovely gallery that offers a great selection
of paintings by Croatian academic painters. A true insight
into Croatian fine art!QJ‑1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51
31/(+385-) 091 515 73 57, [email protected]
www.galerijamoric.com/en. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
& street art
Art market @ Prokurative
Head to the Prokurative and you’re bound to bump
into the city’s creative individuals and organisations. Lots of goodies to buy, events and performances to see, themed art exhibits and oenological
tastings!QI‑2, Prokurative (Trg Republike). Thu, Fri,
Sat, Sun Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Strossmayer Park (Đardin)
You never know what you can find but by attending
this flea market it gives visitors a real atmosphere of
Split’s inhabitants and how they breathe and sleep.
See from old objects, coins, ornaments, books, magazines and other rare things that are up for sale. The
fair becomes especially popular and lively during the
summer months, when the city is flooded with tourists from all over the world.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Yet another charming art gallery where all art lovers can
find something to catch the eye, from paintings to lamps
to small boat models…all decorated and created with a
lot of love and taste.QJ‑2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21)
78 54 21, galerijapapar[email protected]
. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Local graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been at
it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting
exhibits by Croatian and international artists and participating in the local art scene.QJ‑2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel.
(+385-21) 34 41 18, [email protected]
www.studionaranca.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed
Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Style, appeal, and much to reveal! Arterija is a fashion design store that has become one of the cult-like boutiques
when it comes to clothing, jewellery and accessories in
Split. Owner Gorana Gulišija updates her collection regularly and she also promotes the works of some of Croatia’s best designers. Modern yet avant-garde, pop in for a
visit as you just might find a surprise or two. Fashion with
passion!QI‑2, Morpurgova poljana 1, tel. (+385-) 091
547 71 41. Open 10:00-21:00.
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a
store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves,
and more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts
several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be
that much more special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and
Split also contain a Shop Museum, a display intended
to showcase local heritage. Also at Mihovilova širina 7
(Voćni trg).QJ‑2, Krešimirova 11 (Peristil), tel. (+38521) 58 25 28, www.croata.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun
09:00 - 14:00. A
Get get get
One store that has ‘made in Croatia’ written all over it! It is
a small designer shop in the heart of town run by a group
of artists aiming to create, exhibit and sell their products.
The works of academic painters, photographers, architects and others are presented.QJ‑2, Dominisova 16,
tel. (+385-21) 34 10 15, [email protected]
getgetget.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00
- 18:00. A
The Zoričić family create, design and produce beautiful
and timeless male and female first-class leather bags, wallets, purses and belts. All materials are natural and some of
the products are made on the classic ‘Singer sewing machine’ and without electricity. It doesn’t get much more
authentic than that!QI‑2, Zadarska ulica 6, tel. (+385-)
099 253 14 69, [email protected]
. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. A
Shoe boutique with exquisite, attention to detail handmade Croatian design high-heeled shoes proven to be
the winning formula for that special occasion.QD‑2/I‑1,
Kačićeva 7, tel. (+358-21) 48 67 53/(+385-) 091 444 43
05, [email protected]
, www.ledenko.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
CIty Center one
QVukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 51 01 30, info-st@
citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. Open
09:00 - 21:00. June 01 - August 31 Open 09:00 22:00.
QD‑1/2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09/
(+385-21) 39 69 10, [email protected]
joker.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
MALL OF SPLIT
QD‑1/2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09/
(+385-21) 39 69 10, [email protected]
joker.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
72 Split In Your Pocket
One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and
where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes
and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at
its best! Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 08:30 - 22:00.QI‑2,
Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26, thinkpinksplit@
gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 22:30. JA
Wine, olive oil, brandy and rakija (grappa) from the Blato
1902 company derive from the island of Korčula.QD‑2,
Domovinskog rata 31, [email protected]
blato1902.hr. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Titled ‘good morning’, this bakery is chock block with customers thanks to its tasty fresh bread, local pastries and
cakes such as sirnica, kroštule and more. They also have
fresh goats milk.QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 31, tel. (+38521) 38 22 45, [email protected]
. Open 06:00 21:00, Sun 06:30 - 13:30.
A little piece of the Mediterranean with quality international and Croatian wines such as Pošip or Plavac mali,
champagnes, rakija (grappa) and other Dalmatian gastronomic delicacies.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel.
(+385-21) 31 48 00, [email protected]
vinoteka.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30.
Closed Sun. A
Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It
produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QD‑3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+385-21) 27 42
59, [email protected]
, www.gligora.com. Open
07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A
Judita - gourmet & wine shop
Set in the heart of historical Split, the stone walls of the
ancient city create the perfect setting for top class Dalmatian wines and the finest virgin olive oil.QJ‑2, Marulićeva
1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 47, [email protected]
09:00 - 22:00. A
Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award
winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and
Griotte!QI‑2, Narodni trg 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 61 38,
, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Original Croatian chocolate spreads, pralines and chocolate
with extras flavours and nuts such as cinnamon, lavender
or almonds are what makes these so special. And delicious,
may we add!QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) 35 53
84/(+385-) 091 210 88 89, [email protected]
nadalina.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A
Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils,
jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all
about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’.
Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 21:00. QJ‑2, Marulićeva
1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, [email protected]
, www.uje.hr. Open
09:00 - 21:00. June - August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
A little Dalmatian sensation located away from the main
road, but don’t let that discourage you! Authentic prosciutto and cheese from the Šibenik and Zadar County which
can be bought in whole pieces or sliced.QD‑2, Domovin‑
skog rata 27a, tel. (+385-21) 31 55 00. Open 08:00 - 12:00,
16:30-19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe
this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked
its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long
history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi
has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia,
and especially the Dalmatian region.QD‑2, P.I.Čajkovskog
1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 62, [email protected]
www.dalmacijavino.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00. A
Split Tea House
Tea lovers choose from over 240 different world teas
weather for health, diet, beauty, or complexion. There is
green tea, yellow tea, white and black tea, oolong tea etc.
Tea pots and products are available and all at affordable
prices.QI‑2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58,
, www.kucacaja-split.hr. Open
08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A
Located in the heart of Split, this wine store won’t
leave you disappointed. Here you will be able to find
and sample a wide range of superb wines that will
surely deepen your love for vino!QD‑2, Ulica Ivana
Gundulića 36, tel. (+385-21) 48 01 13, [email protected]
, www.vinoteka-viola.com. Open 08:00 20:00. Closed Sun. A
Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here,
amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split
nostalgic and modern. There’s also a wonderful collection
of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace.QJ‑2, Peris‑
til bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@atelierperajica.
com, www.atelierperajica.com. Open 10:00 - 15:00,
17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
74 Split In Your Pocket
Dancing Bear is an exclusive record company in Croatia that
represents numerous artists, such as Zinedine Zidane, Cold
Snap, Đani Stipaničev, Meri Cetinić, Tutti Frutti and many
more. Their stores offer many records featuring local and
international artists.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+38521) 34 43 09, [email protected]
dancingbear.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. A
Enter the oldest book store in the world and take in its history. At the age of 20, Vid Morpurgo, a Jewish immigrant
opened this store 150 years ago on Split’s National Square;
in its jubilee, the city commemorates this milestone and
this man’s willingness to promote Croatian literature, and
find a meeting place for the cultured.QI‑2, Narodni trg
16, tel. (+385-21) 34 68 43, [email protected]
08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
clothing design, as well as product design followed by
ceramics in 2003. The acknowledgment of her work has
helped her gain a reputation as one of the astute Croatian artists in the field of ceramics.
Jewellery by Ida Stipčić Jakšić
One of the jewels of the Croatian Designer scene is Ida
Stipčić Jakšić who has over the last decade engaged
herself in jewellery. Through use of semi-precious stones
and silver which she gathers from her husband’s family
tradition of stone processing, each copy is unique and
hand-processed down to the last detail. Her artistic quality has been recognised by Croatian art institutions and
last year Jakšić had a major exhibition at the Mimara
Museum in Zagreb. You can find her gems at the Jakšić
Gallery, Bribirska 10.
Sheik antique! Wonderful decorative items from cushions,
greeting cards, bags, ceramics and hundreds of other
products all made as a result of an individual approach
to each. Antea and Jovana take vintage household items
only to restore and redesign them, giving them a new life
and context.QJ‑2, Dominisova 2, tel. (+385-) 099 194
92 48, [email protected]
Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
Havana Cigar Shop
Cigars, from Cuba and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up,
dudes.QI‑2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, split@
Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Bowls, Cups and Plates by
If you would like to include a unique bowl, cup or plate
in your home collection, then visit the GetGetGet
Concept Store at Dominisova 16. After completing a
degree in Applied Arts, Boševski worked in textile and
The Borovo Company is the
best-known shoe manufacturer in
Croatia, having the longest tradition, heritage and love towards
shoes. Founded in 1931, with
headquarters located in Vukovar,
during the past 85 years, Borovo
has built its identity not only in
Croatia but in the entire region by
producing stylish, urban, casual
and sports footwear.
Materials used in production
are all of the natural origins such
as leather, 100% cotton canvas
and natural rubber made from
Startas Pink unicorn
has been featured in
fashion magazine Vogue.
BOROVO STORES IN SPLIT
Ruđera Boškovića 15
caoutchouc that is also produced
in the factory. Following the idea
of unique quality shoes, Borovo
designers create simple yet modern cozy footwear that is crafted
with special care and love by at
least 20 caring hands.
The Big Blue
Brands like Startas, Borosana,
Boromina, Rubber, My Ballerinas and
The Big Blue are modern and stylish
shoes for different generations and
Startas sneakers are entirely
handmade, vegan, with coolest
Wooden sculptures by Neno Mikulić
Atelier Mikulić Teslina 14b, is home to multitudes of
wooden sculptures made by the artist himself. They evoke
a sense of Dalmatia as many natural surroundings and city
folk can be seen as his driving force and inspiration, along
with some Mediterranean humour. From sailors, boats and
fish to Franciscan monks, old ladies and seagulls; these are
just some of the motives Mikulić carves and polishes!
76 Split In Your Pocket
H Conference facilities
U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
J Old town location
C Swimming pool
B Outside seating
QD‑2, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00,
fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, [email protected]
hotel-atrium.hr. doubles 1650kn. PZ i OHA
QD‑2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02, fax
(+385-21) 30 23 00, [email protected]
hr. doubles €135 - 170. Pi HARUFLGB
Monograph of Matko Trebotić
A lavish edition of Summa Mediterranea (with around
300 reproductions of the author’ works of art in colour,
graphics, drawing and photography) as dedicated to the
artwork of painter Matko Trebotić, one of the most influential and important Croatian artists. This monograph can
be found in the museum shop of the Split Gallery of Fine
Arts, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, and is written by art historian Viktor Žmegač.
Replicas of wooden sculptures and
reproductions of works on wood by
Head to the Vasko Lipovac Atelier on Vukovarska 8a for
this Croatian / Montenegrins opus. Lipovac worked relentlessly from 1990 - 2006 at this very location which holds
over 1000 sculptures, many of which were made from
wood. His studio was his mecca, his haven and by taking
one step inside, Lipovac’s passion for the Mediterranean
becomes evidently clear. In many ways, his works are a
small but significant part of Split’s artistic history and offer.
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
QI‑2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/(+385) 091 129
01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel.
com, www.marmonthotel.com. doubles €340. Pi
Wooden Sculptures by Neno Mikulić, Atelier Mikulić Archives
Radisson Blu Resort
QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19, tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax (+385-21)
30 30 31, [email protected]
com/resort-split. doubles €175 - 325. Pi THA
QJ‑2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 29, fax
(+385-21) 32 93 33, [email protected]
vestibulpalace.com. doubles €395. PZ i TJA
Necklace silver and citrine by Ida Stipčić Jakšić, Jakšić Gallery Archives
QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel.
(+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, [email protected]
, www.hotel-adriana.hr. doubles 614 - 1214kn.
Pi JA6GBKXW hhh
QE‑1, Kopilica 8a, tel. (+385-21) 36 61 00, fax (+38521) 36 61 11, [email protected]
, www.hotelassplit.com. doubles 800kn. P i A R L G B K
QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 74 99,
fax (+385-21) 36 23 86, [email protected]
, www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr. doubles €83 107. P i A 6 L B K X W hhh
QD‑2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30, fax
(+385-21) 34 01 33, [email protected]
hotel-consul.net. doubles €120. P i H A 6 L
GB K W hhh
QE‑2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25, fax
(+385-21) 27 30 81, [email protected]
hoteldujam.com. doubles €84 - 94. P i H A U
LG K W hhh
QJ‑2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32 90
70, fax (+385-21) 32 90 88, booking@hotelperistil.
com, www.hotelperistil.com. doubles €135 - 162.
P i A 6 G B K X W hhh
QI‑2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. (+385-21) 51 09
99, [email protected]
, www.gollybossy.com. 87
dorm beds, 27 - 33€ per person. PJ H A G B
QD‑3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28 57/(+385-)
099 282 38 44, [email protected]
silvergatehostel.com. 4 Total rooms 26 dorm beds,
17 - 25€ per person. PJ R N G W
Split Hostel Booze and Snooze
QI‑2, Narodni trg 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@
splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. 16 dorm
beds, 17 - 27€ per person. PN G W
QI‑2, Poljana stare gimnazije 1, tel. (+385-) 091 291
21 27, [email protected]
. 18 dorm beds, 15 - 30€ per
person. PJ N G W
QD‑2, Ulica Petra Iliča Čajkovskog 4, tel./fax (+38521) 31 71 24 tel. (+385-) 099 195 04 44, info@t-hostel.
com, www.t-hostel.com. 20 dorm beds, 15 - 25€ per
person. PJ A G W
Ulica Bleiburških ž
rzo v dola
U lica Kralja Zvon
Obala k n
te P tra Prerado vi
Uli ca Kneza Višeslava
Ul. Franje Račko
Ul. Gat Sv. Duje
Zlod rina p
i tr g
Sv. Ma rije
š ka ul
Špe run ul.
Ulica Dujma Mik
Ma tošića ul.
Ulica Milana Bego
Crkva Sv. Križa
Šetalište Ivana Meštrović
Put Me j
Ulica Frana Sup
Ul. A. M
So lurat ua ul.
lica Antuna M iha
Pal min a u
e njs ka ulica
Šetalište Ivana Meštr
Ul. Pod kos
Ul. P od k osom
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o še tališ
I v an
od sedam žalosti
Marjan ki put
Ulica A. H
Ulica Ivana Gundulića
n i put
Ul. Jerolima Kavanji
Ulica Antuna Gustava
V at rogasni pu
Ul. fra Bonina
arina Tatagl ije
ališ te M
in a Tat
a Antuna Gustava Matoša
Šetalište Marina Tataglij
Šetalište Marina Tataglije
Ulica Hrvatske morna
Ulica M ik e
Split Map Legend
muzej Se v
Z ada rska
o girs ka u
un i c
Ul. kneza Mislava
Glago ljaška ul.
s ka u
Sredmanu ška ul.
Ul. Filipa ukasov
Glagoljaška u l.
Ul. Petra Zor
Ul. Miroslava K
Split Map Legend
Ul. Franje Račko
Pu t Sje
Ć iril Metodova ul.
vana Pavla II.
Is tarska ul.
Brač ka ul .
Pu t R
Ul. Uval a Z
Ul . L
na Pavla II.
vla Š u
Put F irula
Ulica an a
Put iza nov
Kuzm ova ul.
Blatin e u
Ul. Nikole Tavelića
a ri n a
s ka ul.
Uli ca Antun
Ka štela n
Pe voj Ane Roje
Ul. Drag e Ivanišev
. I. Gorana
Ulica Julija Klović
c a ul.
fra Grge Martića
U l. Pavla Rittera
Ulica Matice Hrvatsk
Uli ce Grge Novaka
Ulica Matije Iva
ek oslava Pa
Mosećka u l.
Vele Ul. Vj
Va ra ž
Ši benska ul.
ć ka ul.
Ulica Domovinskog rata
Ulica Domovinskog rata
Herceg vačka ul.
ov ićeva ul.
Kop a ul
M O R E
a n a
Stari Grad Vrboska
r s k Bol
A N S
D. Okrug G.
Šestanovac Prološko blato
TR DRVENIK VELI
B r a
č k i
a n a
IJE Maslinica Grohote
H v a
J A K Klis
K O Z779
ZA IJE RE
DA KA B
Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1
21000 Split, Croatia
tel/fax: +385 (0) 21
490 032, 490 033, 490 036
84 Split In Your Pocket