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Split
Summer 2015

History in spades

Ten reasons to dig Croatian
archeology

Step out of Split for
that quick getaway

Makarska Riviera, Dalmatian
Zagora, Kaštela

N°8 - complimentary copy
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Summer 2015

1

Foreword

2 Split In Your Pocket

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Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

A rapid round-up and summer editorial

Arrival & Getting Around

6

From tour guides and rentals to busses and fairies

City Basics 14
What you ought to know

Culture & Events

15

Festival flair, musical treats

Archaeological Treasury

21

Ten Croatian archeologial destinations

Split Pulse

25

When in Split, do as the Splićani do

Restaurants 27
Nothing fishy about this

Local Flavour

Sveti Petar, photo by Rikardo Skorlic
Explore the beauty of Makarska! Swim in one of Croatia’s most
beautiful beaches. See page 70.

38

Mediterranean herbs and spices to spruce

Sightseeing

Coffee & Cakes

Snap, camera, action

42

Dalmatian Zagora 61

Sweet tooth pit stops

Nightlife
When you just gotta boogie

45

43

Run to the hills

Split Surroundings

63
Step away from the masses for some perfect getaways

Makarska Riviera

72

Beaches and bars

Leisure
83
For those wanting to chill and for those seeking a thrill
Shopping

84

Take home the best memoires and souvenirs

Hotels

89

Where to stay

Maps
City centre map
City map
County map

55
56-58
59

Dalmatian delicacies to awaken the senses. See page 36.

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Summer 2015

3

Foreword
Split is a summer hit with thousands of tourists flocking to
this Adriatic seaside city. In recent years, the awakening of
newly opened restaurants, wine bars, new events, exhibits,
concerts and open air festivals have reinvigorated these
ancient city walls. Speaking of open air festivals, ‘Ultra’ is
set to break all records with world class DJs hallowing electronic stages. Browse through our guide and within the
Split Pulse discover what ‘Splićani’ (locals) value as they give
away city secrets that only they know. The Restaurants section takes you on a culinary journey of top notch places to
wine and dine. Learn about the practice of marenda, a type
of brunch and how it is essential to every Dalmatian man.
We’ve prepared a special article on archaeological tourism
for all history buffs. A notable mention goes to Split’s surroundings which include Dalmatian Zagora, the Makarska
Riviera and the breath-taking islands that ought to win you
over with their untouched natural beauty and traditions.
Without further due, the IYP crew wishes you a sensational
summer sizzler!

Publisher
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
ISSN 1846-856X
Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
Split In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
[email protected], www.inyourpocket.com
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Lana
Kovačić
Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić
Assistant Eli Gajinov
Design Petar Mudnić
Photography Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
Cover © Phil Newman, At the Helm
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić
[email protected]

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Copyright notice
Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

About IYP
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4 Split In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of
months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also
been applying the finishing touches
to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.com. Radically redesigned and
restructured to place the visitor at the
heart of the cities we cover, our new
website puts you in total control of our
content on whatever desktop, laptop or
mobile device you are using. Give it a
go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward
we have ever taken and entrenches our
position as a game-changing publisher
in all formats.
To keep up with all that’s new at In Your
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.
com/inyourpocket).
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Arrival & Getting Around
Jadrolinija
Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or
catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line RijekaSplit-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local
catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance
(maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.
QD-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, ag.split@
jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30 - 24:00.
July, August Open 00:00 - 24:00.
Kapetan Luka, Krilo
Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via
Milna, Hvar, Korčula.QGat Sv Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54
76, [email protected], www.krilo.hr. Open 07:30 18:30, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 16:00, Fri 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:30
- 20:00.
MSC Krstarenja
SNAV agent runs the Split-Ancona ferry line.QD-3, Gat
Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja.
com, www.msckrstarenja.com. Open 08:00 - 20:15.
Split Tourist Board Archives

By boat
Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition
from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to
see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those
are just the customs officers that work at the office located
in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates
around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least
four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the
building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during
their working hours. Calling home: There are two public
phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased
from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around
town. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the
street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and
you’ll reach the old town in about five minutes. Given its
location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main
hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač,
Šolta and Vis. For domestic travel, prices vary according to
which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown
is something like this: 33 - 60kn per person and 160 - 530kn
for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles
38 - 62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and
we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute
little life vest. The journey from Split to Šolta takes about
half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about two and a half
hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy
some snacks and a drink or two.
6 Split In Your Pocket

Split Tours
Blue Line International agent with Split-Ancona and HvarAncona ferry lines. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva).QD3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. (+385-21) 35 25
33, [email protected], www.splittours.hr. Open
08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 15:30 - 20:30. A

By bus
Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you
need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open
00:00 - 24:00) 4kn can be found inside the station, along
with the domestic and international ticket windows and
an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers
a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00. The international ticket office
operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the
window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage
point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn
left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate
of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you
pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the
street, the directions for getting around are the same as for
the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the
Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old
town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call
centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away
directly in front of the bus station.

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Arrival & Getting Around
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre
QD-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9,
tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, [email protected], www.
visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information Centre
QJ-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, touristinfo@
visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor
Split)
If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination,
make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as
return tickets usually require you to travel with the same
company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be
travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus
will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can
affect the length of your trip.QJ-3, Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 80,
[email protected], www.ak-split.hr.

By car
From Zagreb
So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the
easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The
fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to
use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on
international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route
on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres
long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving
you of 174 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know
you’re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and
that’s that!
From Slovenia
Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to
do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and
keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.
From Italy
Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions,
nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway
to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and
route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia

and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which
will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65
(local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the
A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit
labeled Dugopolje.

BY PLANE
Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but
quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any
questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people
at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00.
Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find
a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also
be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an
exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the
main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling
home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand
(open according to flight times). There are public phones
in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet
point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second,
upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and
women’s toilets.
Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a
number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall.
Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Plesoprijevoz
airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport
and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus
No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute
intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn one-way; cross the street
and wait at the stop there. Plesoprijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main
bus station, just next to the old town for 30kn.
Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka
Split-Kaštela)
QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel.
(+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, informacije@
split-airport.hr, www.split-airport.hr.
Brač Airport
Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the
biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter
flights organized only during the summer. The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers
or fewer.QVeško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21) 55
97 11, [email protected], www.airport-brac.hr. Open
08:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. September
Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00.

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Arrival & Getting Around
QRiva 1/a, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air.
eu, www.ec-air.eu
In addition to the above, starting from July, there will be
seaside airport: Split downtown, Lastovo, Vela Luka, Mali
Lošinj, Novalja and Cres. FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the
airports in Resnik, Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have
a dock. The Outdoor Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at
the airports in Resnik, Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will
soon be opening at the other locations. Souvenir shops
are located at all of the airports. At the souvenir shops you
can buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs
and useful beach products. Passengers at the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split Airport,
have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside
Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute
drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the
addresses mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport,
where they will also have a ticket office. And, of course,
online at www.ec-air.eu. Working Hours for the Ticket &
Check-in Offices, Put Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić:
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island of Hvar) Lučice Street
Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer months the Ticket
Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can
be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are
available at the docks.
Split Tourist Board Archives

european coastal
airlines seaports
Now it’s easier than ever to get from the mainland to the
islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily
hydroplane transfers from Split, Jelsa (Hvar), Pula and Rab.
With these multiple flight connections throughout the
Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded
islands along the coastline.
At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up
and running:​
Seaside Airport Resnik
QPut Divulja 17, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 89 50
10, [email protected], www.ec-air.eu.
Seaside Airport Jelsa
Q
​ Mala Banda bb Jelsa, tel. (+385-21) 76 20 24, jelsa@
ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu
Seaside Airport Rab
QIvana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87,
[email protected], www.ec-air.eu
Seaside Airport Pula

By train
The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the
station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. Getting to
town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for
getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn
will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right
turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones,
ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis
wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.
Main train station
Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to
a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes
about eight hours. If you happen to be leaving on a night
train from Zagreb at 23:05 or a night train from Split at
22:06, there’s one more really handy service offered at the
train station. If you have a car and don’t feel like driving at
night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect
it at your destination for a fee of 101,00kn, plus the price
of a passenger ticket.QJ-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel.
(+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, informacije@
hzpp.hr, www.hzpp.hr.PUBLIC TRANSPORT

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses. There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run
from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40)
running Fridays and Saturdays only. Maps and schedules for
each line can be found at their respective stops.
10 Split In Your Pocket

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Arrival & Getting Around

For
a day
your
way

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Arrival
& Getting Around
City
Basics

Split Tourist Board Archives

Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11kn or from
Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9kn. If you’re
trying to beat the system and chance it without a ticket,
the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be,
buddy!) is 70kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is
good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is
the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir,
Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split.
Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00 on
weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Saturdays, and is closed on
Sunday. To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21)
48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services
call (+385-21) 40 79 99.
Promet SplitQE-1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21)
40 78 88, [email protected], www.promet-split.hr.

Taxi
The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you
own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If you’re
with Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is
12 Split In Your Pocket

18kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 2.5kn added
per each piece of luggage and 50kn per hour for waiting.
There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis
wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near
the Riva.

PARKING
There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 - 5kn/
hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking
is payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 - 21:30, Sat 06:30 - 14:00
and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Sat
07:00 - 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the
same price. However, be aware of the time, since if you
are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have
one you might catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone
2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4). Aside from zoned street parking,
another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas,
which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on
your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the
Riva, you can bet on a maximum 10kn charge for the first
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Arrival & Getting
CityAround
Basics
hour and 15kn per hour thereafter. Most of the lots operate
around the clock.
Promet Split
QD-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, parking@
promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.
SMS PARKING
There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 70
8211), zone 2 (blue - 70 8212), zone 3 (green - 70 8213)
and zone 4 (yellow - 70 8214). You get a ticket at the box
under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by
sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to
the number shown on the box (remember to include the
international dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile).
A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out,
you’ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of
the space or move your car.

Towed away
As evidenced by the empty parking spot that your car
previously occupied and that equally empty feeling you
have down in the pit of your stomach, you obviously didn’t
heed our request to respect the parking laws of Split. Your
ride has been towed away by what we refer to in English as
the, ahem, tow-truck; or, in Croatian, pauk (literally: spider)
to the car impound at Pujanke bb (F-2), so you’ll need to
shell out 750 - 1350kn to retrieve it. Cash or credit cards
are accepted and the office is open around the clock. Tel.
(+385-21) 37 68 48.

TRAVEL Agencies
Adriatic Travel
QD-3, Jadranska 6, tel. (+385-21) 49 01 30/(+385-21)
49 01 29, [email protected], www.adriatic-travel.
hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A

We connect
Croatia
European Coastal Airlines redefines
your journey in the air by providing
fast daily scheduled connections to
the most magnificent islands in the
Adriatic. You are invited to explore
stunning coastlines and the beautifully
preserved centuries old harbour towns
Croatia has to offer from an entirely
new perspective. Whether traveling for
business or pleasure, ECA will provide
an experience worth remembering.

www.ec-air.eu

F-tours putovanja
QD-2, Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice 3, tel. (+385-21)
34 48 42, [email protected], www.f-tours.hr. Open 08:30
- 18:30, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Galileo
QJ-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. (+385-21) 54 22 33, info@
galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A
Split Walking Tour
QJ-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81 41, info@
splitwalkingtour.com, www.splitwalkingtour.com.
Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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City
CityBasics
Basics
CUSTOMS

VISAS

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1st 2013, there are no
longer custom limits between member states or tax return.
For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Since Croatia has become a new member of the European
Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully
compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does
that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter
other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia
also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/
embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.
In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit
other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain
a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing
through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border
without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to
enter Croatia.

DISABLED TRAVELERS
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is
still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car
parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at
least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new
buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can
expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to
most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your
arrival as accessible as possible.

ELECTRICITY
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY
There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in
the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the
amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

WATER
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly
lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep
your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER
or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in
case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you
will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER
is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva 1 (E-3) where
everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for
accidents on the sea call 195.

PUBLIC TOILETS
When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public
toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good condition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the
Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuška little bay area (H3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street
(J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are
around 4kn or 0.50€.

ROADS
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in
urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/
ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As
they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.
14 Split In Your Pocket

Photo by Marša Gajinov

split.inyourpocket.com

City
Culture
City
& Basics
Events
Basics

Othello - Splitsko ljeto Archives

EXHIBITIONS
05.05 Tuesday - 31.08 Monday
Lloyd pictographs
This exhibition presents cruise trips made by two Lloyd
Steamships which took place in the 1930s along the Mediterranean. Photo negatives are presented on LED displays
which reflect on the staggering pictures of luxurious
early 20th century cruise ships where attention was paid
to every detail.QK-2, Croatian Maritime Museum Split,
Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), [email protected], www.
hpms.hr.
09.05 Saturday - 20.09 Sunday
Rodin’s Meditation in Split
What started a long time ago has finally been realised now.
Auguste Rodin’s Meditation is one of the most well-known
sculpts of all time, in fact it inspired Croatia’s very own Ivan
Meštrović in making his Psyche, in 1927. Meštrović even
requested Rodin to send him the plaster cast but due to
war and Rodin’s death, it was not meant to be, till now.
QB-3, Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and
the Crikvine - Kaštilac, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39,
[email protected], www.mestrovic.hr.
JUNE
Muzikalije – Exhibition, from the collection of the Split City Museum
Few can argue that Split is Croatia’s music capital with its
long and rich culture. The exhibited music collection presents material on Split’s musical life from the period between the 18th and 20th century with manuscripts, early
publications and world rarities on hand. This is why Split
is a hit!QJ-2, Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, [email protected], www.mgst.net.
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

JUNE - AUGUST
Significant artists from the Jarak Collection of the Varaždin City Museum
The exhibition will present an extraordinary selection of
works by the most prominent Croatian artists such as Ivo
Dulčić, Vasilije Jordan and Edo Murtić which were donated
to the Varaždin City Museum by the priest and Ph. D. Božo
Vjeko Jarak which includes paintings, drawings, prints and
sculptures. Landscapes, still lives and religious themes
are of prominence here.QJ-2, Emanuel Vidović Gallery,
Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, [email protected],
www.galerija-vidovic.com.
10.06 Wednesday - 10.07 Friday
Dubravka Rakoci - June in Split
She is the artist of colour and light; Rakoci plays with
variations of coloured light in any given space by using
a monochrome circle and in turn using the perimeter of
the gallery as a fluid surface. Natural light also beams onto
exhibited gallery panels giving viewers an aura of colours
and an experience of spatial reality.QJ-2, Kula Gallery,
Kralja Tomislava 10, [email protected], www.
galerija-kula.hr.
16.06 Tuesday - 30.06 Tuesday
Andrea Musa
A truly wonderful exhibition by the award winning
German-born Croatian artist Andrea Musa will include
her amazing, colourful and vivid paintings. She has held
numerous solo exhibitions and has represented Croatia at Biennials and more. Her art work represents a true
celebration of life and is greatly influenced by her human
Summer 2015

15

Culture & Events
experiences, nature, travel, a sense of longing, as well as
film, literature and philosophy.QI-2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm.
17.07 Friday - 31.07 Friday
Friends of the Sea – Nineteen Hundred
and Something
Take a glimpse into the world of our forefathers and see
the beauty of Croatia captured as never before! This one
extraordinary photo exhibition from the ‘Friends of the
Sea’ cycle and selected by the ‘Rovinj-Photodays’ expert
team will be held with 62 large format documentary
photographs taken at the beginning of the 20th century
showcasing the life and heritage of the Croatian Adriatic.
Qwww.prijateljimora.com.

Split Film Festival
12.09 Saturday - 19.09 Saturday
SPLIT FILM FESTIVAL - International
Festival of New Film
The jubilee 20th edition of the oldest international
annual film event in Croatia starts in May with the
marking of this important anniversary! Nineteen
weeks before this year’s festival, the most significant
films from the festivals past editions will be screened
each Wednesday and Thursday at 20:00, at the Beton
Cinema (Dom mladih, Ulica slobode 28). This will
present a culmination of two decades of the festival
and also give an overview of the most important
developments on the international film scene due
to the fact that since its very beginning, the festival
has been open to all new, innovative, experimental
and radical works of all lengths and genres. Dare
we say, some have even become cult films! Among
them is Kim Longinotto’s Shinjuku Boys which opens
the celebration cycle on May 7, at 20:00 and it this
screening that was shown at the first Split Film Festival in 1996. By the way, did someone say free entry
to all screenings? Yes indeed! Further information of
schedules and screenings can be found on the festival’s Facebook page and web page. And after counting down throughout the summer months this year’s
jubilee 20th edition starts from September 12 and
runs until September 19. As always, an attractive and
uncompromising program waits, accompanied by a
number of scintillating side events to twinkle every
film buffs [email protected], www.
splitfilmfestival.hr.

16 Split In Your Pocket

30.07 Thursday - 13.08 Thursday
Yasna Skorup Krneta (Installations,
objects, photos)
Winner of many awards and having held numerous exhibitions of her art work at home and abroad, Krneta has
always held Istria as a source of inspiration, which is especially noted in several of her cycles (Histria Poetica, Saga of
Istria etc.) Last year she made headlines with her monumental installation ‘Chair Kravat’ at the entry of Opatija’s
Villa Angiolina.QI-2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3,
www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm.
18.08 Tuesday - 01.09 Tuesday
Sandra Radić Parać
At this exhibition Parać presents her dreamlike paintings in
which the blueness of the sky and the sea almost merge
together, exploring the transition from reality into imaginary, conscious to subconscious, as if creating the imagery
of a human soul with the stroke of a paint brush. Her paintings can easily be described as the big blue, almost fairytale-like.QI-2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.
hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm.
28.08 Friday - 28.09 Monday
Robert Šimrak - AI (Artificial Intelligence)
AI refers to ‘Artificial Intelligence’ and the virtual world we
live in has given Šimrak the stimulus for using sequences
and patterns as created via 3D graphic programs for the
creation of his paintings. Generating such virtual images in
a large format has a powerful psychological effect on observers, driving them to adapt to the perception of a simulated environment.QJ-2, Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava
10, [email protected], www.galerija-kula.hr.
03.09 Thursday - 17.09 Thursday
Marc Riboud
A photo exhibition by the renowned and award winning
French photographer Marc Riboud. In 1953, Riboud made
a breakthrough on the international scene with his photo
of the Eiffel Tower that was published in ‘Life’ magazine. In
his works, he documented world events during the 1950s
and 1960s, from the Middle East, Soviet Union, and Algeria, and happened to be one of few photographers who
managed to get into Vietnam.QI-2, Galić Art Salon, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split.hr/str/galic.htm.
01.10 Thursday - 01.11 Sunday
Tadej Pogačar
A contemporary Slovenian artist, curator and educator
whose conceptual artwork is critical of institutions and
raises social and political issues. He is especially famous
for being the founder of the virtual organisation, ‘The
P.A.R.A.S.I.T.E’ where his artistic concept of parasitism is in
the natural environment and coincides with the transgressive form of the existence of culture.QJ-2, Kula Gallery,
Kralja Tomislava 10, [email protected], www.
galerija-kula.hr.
split.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Pokraj nje - FMFS Archives

SPECIAL EVENTS
05.06 Friday - 13.06 Saturday
Split Mediterranean Film Festival
For eight year straight, this festival of full-length and short
film from the Mediterranean region has established itself as one of the best events on the Adriatic. When you
consider that screenings take place on the beach with
the summer breeze blowing amongst centuries-old pine
trees, how could it not? Bring a blanket!QBačvice Summer Cinema (Preradovićevo šetalište 6), Kinoteka Zlatna vrata (Dioklecijanova 7) and Split Gallery of Fine Arts
(Ulica kralja Tomislava 15), [email protected], www.fmfs.hr.
15.06 Monday - 19.06 Friday
IKS Festival
The fourth edition of this highly regarded international
festival of contemporary theatre will see an abundance
of performances by a number of well-known European
artists and authors. The festival opens with the fascinating Austrian theatre show ‘Talking Heads’, followed by an
interactive French new media show ‘Hakanai’ and the Croatian-Italian coproduction ‘Troia Discount’ written by the
provocative Italian duo Ricci/Forte. DJ Massimo Passante
Max has the honour of closing the event. Stay tuned for
line up details!Qwww.iksfestival.eu.
01.07 Wednesday - 02.07 Thursday
A Sustipan Night’s Dream
Sustipan Park will for the fourth year in a row be the location
for this exclusive event. Organisers literally go all out to recreate
and evoke the atmosphere of Shakespeare’s ‘Midnight Summer Dream’. Dance under the stars in two nights of hedonism
with retro/pop group Jinx and Amira Medunjanin.QC-3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com.
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

03.07 Friday - 05.07 Sunday
The Split festival
Many say that this is the San Remo Music Festival of Croatia as it always attracts the biggest names on the Croatian
music scene. Despite the glory days of the 70’s and 80’s
long gone, the event has had some changes over the years
but things are on the improve. For the very best in Croatian music, then this is a highlight as it continues to attract
the biggest names and draws the most attention.QI-2,
Prokurative (Trg Republike), www.splitskifestival.hr.
14.07 Tuesday - 14.08 Friday
The 61st Split Summer Festival
A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and
music will be held in venues throughout historical centre
of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian
National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance performances from Croatia and
abroad.QVarious locations across Split, www.splitskoljeto.hr.
27.08 Thursday - 06.09 Sunday
MAGfestival
For the 6th year in a row, as organized by the Young Academic Musicians Association, a chamber music festival will
be held at the beautiful venue of the Gothic Hall of the
Split City Museum. By purchasing a ticket, visitors will not
only be able to participate in the concert but will also be
able to visit the Split City Museum and see the permanent
display of the Emanuel Vidović Gallery.QJ-2, Split City
Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.udrugamag.com.

www.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2015

17

Culture & Events
CINEMAS
Central
QI-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 38 13,
www.ekran.hr.
Cineplexx City Center one Split
QF-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 65 11 11,
[email protected], www.cineplexx.hr. Open 15:00
- 22:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:30.
CineStar
QD-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel. (+385-)
060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr.
Karaman
QI-2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58 33, www.
ekran.hr.
Kinoteka Zlatna vrata
QJ-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 36 13 35,
[email protected], www.zlatnavrata.hr.
Open Cinema Bačvice (Ljetno kino
Bačvice)
QD-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34
86 76, www.ekran.hr. Open July, August.

COUNTY EVENTS
04.07 Saturday - 25.07 Saturday
Festival Dalmatian Klapa Omiš
Established in 1966, this musical extravaganza featuring
Croatian a cappella music is held annually in Omiš. Don’t
miss out on the 49th Festival featuring all men or all women vocal groups, as well as mixed groups. These beautiful
voices will leave you breathless!QOmiš, www.fdk.hr.
14.07 Tuesday - 18.07 Saturday
Supetar Super Film Festival
A festival of contemporary European documentary film
with a programme of accompanying events, including
concerts by leading Croatian bands and exhibitions and
art workshops on themes related to the programme of
films. The festival takes place five days.QSupetar, Brač.

18.07 Saturday
S.A.R.S. – Sinj Amateur Rock Meetup
The old town of Sinj in the Dalmatian hinterland is the setting for an annual festival of alternative culture and promotes amateur rock bands from entire Croatia. Due to its
popularity, it has grown into something much bigger with
popular mainstream Croatian acts also performing. Side
sparkles include book nights, film screenings and workshops that accompany the festival. Stay tuned for line up
details.QSinj, www.visitsinj.com.
18.07 Saturday - 19.07 Sunday
World Music Festival Ethnoambient
Salona
The spirit of this event is global whilst it firmly remains local. This yearly gathering truly defines how diverse world
music really is. It presents musicians who get their inspiration in combining traditional and contemporary music
from their countries of origin. Hear sounds from around
the globe with this musical celebration of cultural differences! Hear the sounds of Kries (Croatia), Domo Emigrantes (Italy), Dunja Knebl (Croatia), Kazan (Croatia), Jamo Jamo
(Senegal, UK)...QGradina, Solin, ethnoambient@gmail.
com, www.ethnoambient.net.
19.07 Sunday - 26.07 Sunday
Vanka Regule
A festival of outdoor adventure sports plus a film festival
dedicated to adventure themes equals, with a sprinkling
of photography equals fun for just about everyone. Sports
featured include climbing, free ride biking, indo board,
windsurfing, sailing, sea kayaking, slacklining, trail running
and stand up paddling (which we didn’t think sounded
very difficult until we saw the pictures).QSutivan, Brač,
[email protected], www.vankaregule.com.
25.07 Saturday - 31.07 Friday
The Legend of Miljenko and Dobrila
A tale of forbidden love! Croatia’s true and tragic counterpart to Romeo and Juliet is reinvigorated in the town of
Kaštela, home to Miljenko and Dobrila. The entire town
and its people transport back into the 17th century, see
re-enactments of the legendary tale where family dispute
stands in the way of love, ending in death.QKaštela.
07.08 Friday
2Cellos
They are Croatia’s sensation, a double bass duo who after uploading their version of Michael Jackson’s Smooth
Criminal on You Tube have had over eleven million clicks.
QPjaca, Jelsa, Hvar island. Tickets 160 - 320kn.
09.08 Sunday
Sinjska Alka
The Sinjska Alka is a famous equestrian competition held
in Sinj every first Sunday in the month of August. Since
1715, it has been held to commemorate the victory over
the Ottoman Turks. The horseman must aim their lances at
a hanging metal ring, called an alka, at full gallop. Interest-

18 Split In Your Pocket

split.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events

Luciano

Ultra Europe Archives

Papaya

ingly, only men who were born in the Sinjska Krajina, the
city of Sinj or one of the surrounding villages, can take part
in the Alka competition. Proudly, in 2010, it was written in
UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list.QSinj, www.
visitsinj.com.
18.08 Tuesday
The Pirate Battle of Omiš
The Pirate Battle of Omiš is a unique and fascinating event
that reconstructs a battle that took place in the 13th century and as a result, marked Omiš as the “City of Pirates.” The
role-playing battle describes the fight between the Venetian fleet, commanded by Akoncije with pirates from Omiš,
led by Malduk. The battle took place in the harbour in Omiš
and ended with the Venetians having to pay a fee in gold
coins to pass through the Brač channel. The victory lead to
a roaring applause from the local citizens, as they chanted
the name of Malduk in celebration.QCity port, Omiš.
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Tiesto

SUMMER BEATS
So you are on these pages because you’re in a festival frenzy and you were looking for a guide to lead you
through the labyrinth. Well buckle up and hold on tight.
We’ll lead you through the adventurous days and nights
of the summer accompanied by a soundtrack of techno,
house, trance, bass, tech-house (or no soundtrack at all if
you prefer)... We’ll attempt to give you a clear and concise
run through of the best festivals this beautiful country has
to offer from north to south and will make sure you know
the place, the date, and the headliners.
As for the festivals themselves, as an institution in the
past they served the purpose of strengthening the bonds
among the community in the era before mass media. That
time has passed but the need to be a part of something
bigger than yourself, a part of the community, is still very
much alive. This is the summer you’ll get everything you
Summer 2015

19

Culture & Events
ever wanted so no matter what happens just keep on
dancing and living!
ZAGREB
Our most northern destination and also the only continental location is the capital, Zagreb, but the party is just too
good to leave out. If the capital of the country calls, you
answer. Welcome to Zagreb Calling with the event of the
season and a grand gig by the large electronic duo Faithless on Jul 14th. So if you are planning to go deeper into
the continent, plan your visit to coincide with this bomb.
ISTRIA & KVARNER
We move on to the Istria and Kvarner region and settle in
Pula. There’s actually not much in the way of settling, as
Pula will be bursting with life with its own festival madness. Seasplash festival (reggae) will splash you with
sound from Jul 16th to 19th and portals to a fresher and
more enjoyable view on life will be opened during Dimensions festival from Aug 26th to 30th with world class
names from house to techno such as Four Tet Live, Ben
Klock, John Talabot, and Surgeon. Finally, September will
be greeted by bass music Outlook festival from Sept 2nd
to 6th with SBTRKT Live, Roni Size Reprazent, and Goldie.
NORTHERN DALMATIA
So we take our journey a bit more south and arrive at Zrće
beach on the Island of Pag, the most famous party destination in Croatia often dubbed The Second Ibiza.
From Jun 28th to Jul 2nd you’ll be able to enjoy The Hideout festival and find your own shelter from the world with
names such as Duke Dumont, Jamie Jones, Nina Kraviz,
Sigma, and Loco Dice.
From Jul 25th to Aug 1st prepare your ears for seven days
of love and joy at the Loveweek festival with the sounds
of artists like Robin Schulz, Showtek, Oliver Koletzki, and
Felix Krocher.
Aug 8th to Aug 15th is reserved for the 4th edition of Barrakud festival with huge headliners such as Maceo Plex,
Sven Väth, Dennis Ferrer, and Ellen Allien, while Aug 16th
through 20th is designated for Sonus festival, where you
will be greeted by the beats of Dixon, Jamie Jones, Marco
Carola, Richie Hawtin, and Seth Troxler.
Then it’s time to move a few miles inland, where you’ll be
able to find all that was lost at the Lost Theory festival at
Deringaj, in amazing ambience near the river Otuča, dancing and swinging amongst the trees deep in the forest
from 12th to 17th of Aug with psychedelic and goa trance
DJs, live acts, and performers. A tad further south we find
ourselves in Zadar, which invites you to come and dance
in open spaces at the new Viva Riva festival on Aug 7th and
8th.
From Zadar we move on to Tisno, an enchantingly wonderful location that is one of the fastest growing and most
sought after festival destinations in Croatia. For some
mindless senseless fun Tisno opens the season with The
Garden festival. Jul 1st through the 8th is going to be your
last chance ever to visit The Garden festival at its final 10th
edition, called “Going Out with a Bang”, with the farewell
20 Split In Your Pocket

soundtrack provided by Seth Troxler, Bonobo, and Craig
Richards, while just a day after we say goodbye to The Garden we see its replacement. Jul 9th to Jul 13th will be a
time to notice the huge Electric Elephant in the room when
disco music will be celebrated by the likes of A Guy Called
Gerald live, Derrick Carter, and Bicep. Soon it will be time
to stop being practical and join the crowds at Stop Making
Sense festival lasting from Jul 16th to Jul 19th. For these
few days this will become home for all house, disco, techno, electro, soul, and funk lovers with musicians such as
Anja Schneider, Anthony Naples, and The Black Madonna.
After the madness it will be time for the sleeker, sexier
sound of SuncéBeat Festival with its sultry soulful house
from Jul 22nd to 29th and the soul will be brought by artists such as Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega, and Dimitri from
Paris. Finally Soundwave festival will be reverberating over
the water surface Aug 6th through 10th with the sounds of
Mr. Scruff, LTJ Bukem, and Slum Village.
Our last stop in the Northern Dalmatia region is Šibenik
where you will be free to lend your ear to the SuperUHO
festival from Aug 6th to Aug 8th with Einstürzende Neubauten, King Khan and The Shrines, and Rosetta.
CENTRAL DALMATIA
Central Dalmatia will blow you away with the promises
of unforgettable nights. We start at Trogir which will be
dancing under the Moondance festival flag on Aug 2nd
with greats such as Dave Clarke and Kink. Than we slide
over to Split. This is where you want to be because from
Jul 9th to 15th it’s time for the massive Ultra Europe with
global headliners like The Chemical Brothers (LIVE!!), Carl
Cox, Armin Van Buuren, Hardwell, and from Aug 6th to Aug
8th you are invited to EDM fantasy of Split Beach Festival
with Fedde Le Grand.
Supetar at Brač will become a safe haven for the Voi`sa
festival. Artists like Breach/Ben Westbeech, Greg Wilson,
and Joey Negro play from Jul 30th to Aug 1st, and then a
little more down the longitudes is the oh so sunny island
of Hvar which welcomes you to the 3rd edition of FOR festival held from Sep 4th – 6th .
SOUTHERN DALMATIA
And finally we are off to the most southern of festivals from
which you can choose. First stop is Korkyralis on Korčula
which is an amazing five week long relaxing festival experience where you can chill on the farms and yachts nearby
and dance your heart out with Tube & Berger, Tiefschwarz,
Subb-an and Noir from Jul 25th – Aug 29th, and maybe in
the meantime slide to Velika Duba Bay near Živogošće. For
all of those who cannot help but dance under the stars in
the untouched nature, we present the Adriatic Perception
festival on Aug 14th and 15th when we will be joined by
Christian Smith, Silicone Soul, and Ramon Tapia.
Dance, love, enjoy, and live!

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Culture & Events

Utakmica Delmata i Rimljana - Photo by Branko Covic (Sinj Tourist Board Archives)

Archaeological Treasury
A PRACTICAL GUIDE OF THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL
DESTINATIONS by jonathan bousfield

facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

Summer 2015

21

Archaeological
Culture
& EventsTreasury
three-legged ceramic vessel currently displayed at Zagreb’s Archeological Museum. The Dove was unearthed
at the riverside locality of Vučedol, just downstream from
Vukovar, a major centre of Eneolithic archeological discovery that has given its name to the Vučedol Culture – a
copper-smelting civilization that stretched from the Adriatic to the Pannonian Plain. This summer will finally see the
long-awaited opening of the Museum of Vučedol Culture
(www.turizamvukovar.hr), which will attempt to bring
these European ancestors to life with recreations of their
dwellings, audiovisual displays and a wealth of artefacts.

Days of Diocletian Archives

Visitors to Croatia are keenly aware that it is a country of
great heritage, with significant lumps of past civilizations
lying around in its major cities. Pula’s amphitheatre, Split’s
Roman palace, Trogir’s cathedral and Dubrovnik’s walls are
just four of the most obvious examples. What is perhaps
less well known is the sheer multitude of archeological
sites in the country, and the significant number of past cultures that have been discovered thanks to digs on Croatian
soil. Sites such as Vela Spila in Korčula or Vučedol near Vukovar have greatly added to our knowledge of European
prehistory; Vinkovci is considered to be one of the oldest
continually-settled towns on the continent.
What follows is a list of archeological destinations that
are both significant places of discovery and also rewarding places to visit. No list is ever complete – very often
one historical site will lead you on to the discovery of an
equally interesting one somewhere else – but hopefully it
will provide a spur to further exploration.

Zagreb and inland
Croatia
Krapina
The Zagorje market town of Krapina north of Zagreb has
been closely associated with Neanderthals ever since Dragutin Gorjanović Krambeger first trowelled up their bones
in 1899. These original finds are so unique that they are
permanently locked up in a secure vault in Zagreb, but this
doesn’t mean that you should Krapina Neanderthal Museum a miss. On the contrary, it’s arguably the finest scientific-historic day out that Croatia has to offer; a state-of-theart museum that deploys film shows, multimedia displays
and supremely lifelike Neanderthal waxworks to tell the
story – not just of the Neanderthals themselves – but of
human evolution in general. Although Neanderthals became extinct about 40,000 years ago, recent research has
revealed that they lived alongside Homo sapiens for a long
time and interbred with them too; which means that all of
us probably still carry the odd thread of Neanderthal DNA.
Vukovar
One of the most iconic objects in the Croatian cultural
canon is the so-called Vučedol Dove, a 3000-year-old,
22 Split In Your Pocket

Andautonia
So near to Zagreb and yet so frequently overlooked, the
Andautonija Archeological Park (www.andautonia.com)
displays the excavated remains of a Roman-era town in
the middle of the village of Ščitarjevo, 20km southeast
of the capital. Although lacking in the drama of amphitheatres or well-preserved temples, everything else you
would expect from a Roman town is here, including
remnants of shopping streets, bathhouse complexes and
scraps of mosaic. The Archeological Museum in Zagreb
organizes a string of summer events at the park which are
aimed at families and children, with displays of ancient
crafts, a change to sample Roman-era recipes, and a lot of
dressing up in togas.
Vinkovci
The eastern Croatian town of Vinkovci has been claimed
to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe,
although similar things have been said about Plovdiv in
Bulgaria, so it’s always worth treating these headlinegrabbing statements with a pinch of salt. What’s known is
that it played host to a distinctive Neolithic group belonging to the so-called Starčevo Culture from at least before
6000BC. The inhabitants lived in metre-deep dug-outs
covered with awnings, and heated themselves with ceramic ovens. You can see the evidence in Vinkovci Museum
(www.muzejvk.hr), which includes a recreation of one of
the dwellings. Just outside Vinkovci in the village of Sopot,
a dig investigating a quite separate hut-dwelling culture
dating back to around 5000BC is now the location of the
Sopot Archeological Park, where a handful of dwellings
has been reconstructed.

Zadar region
Asseria
Occupying a ridge overlooking the fertile fields of the
Ravni kotari, Asseria was inhabited from bronze age times,
becoming an important administrative and trading centre
under the Liburnians and the Romans before being abandoned some time during the Avar and Slav migrations.
It’s a compelling site, surrounded by extensive defensive
walls, with a ruined medieval church occupying what used
to be the forum. Located near Podgrađe, 5km from Benkovac, Asseria is earmarked for future tourist development,
with the construction of a visitors’ centre and a ‘dormitorium’ inspired by Roman-era residential quarters.
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Archaeological
Culture &Treasury
Events

A lot of artefacts uncovered in Asseria are on display in the
Zadar Archeological Museum (www.amzd.hr), particularly
the pine-cone shaped gravestones known as cippi, a form
typical of the area inhabited by the LIburnians. The first
floor of the Archeological Museum, newly reopened after extensive renovation, is the place to learn more about
Roman-era northern Dalmatia.

Šibenik region
Burnum
North of Šibenik, just outside western boundary of the
Krka National Park, the road from Kistanje to Knin passes
the site of Burnum (www.npkrka.hr), the 1st-century Roman military camp that is thought to have accommodated
two entire legions. What’s left of the site is dramatic indeed, its pale stones emerging from the arid, maquis-covered karst. On the western side of the road lie the remains
of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post.
Many of the finds from Burnum, together with an attractive interpretative display, can be admired at Puljane, a National Park-operated visitors’ centre located on a plateau
high above the Krka gorge.

Split region

Salona - Photo by Nives Kocijan

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Salona
Arguably the grandest of Croatia’s ancient cities is Salona, former capital of Roman dalmatia and reckoned to
be the fourth largest city in the empire at its height, and
now poking up unassumingly from the fields that stretch
west of Solin, just inland from Split. Salona has been intensively excavated at several times over the last 125 years,
most notably by Don Frane Bulić (1846-1934), the doyen of
Croatian archeology who is buried in a Late Roman-style
sarcophagus at the entrance to the site. However 90% of
Salona remains untouched by archeologists, hidden beSummer 2015

23

Archaeological
Culture
& EventsTreasury
fact the pattern of field divisions - and many of the stones
that make up the partitions - date back to the fourth century BC, when Stari Grad was colonized by Greeks from
Vis. Known in Greek as the Hora, this intensively farmed
plain has changed little in the intervening centuries, and
was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008
in recognition of its historical importance. Remains of a
Greek tower have been found on Maslinovik hill, and the
remnants of Roman-era country villas are scattered across
the plain. You might not spot any of these as you pass, but
the timeless landscape of agricultural toil is enough to give
you a strong impression of Mediterranean culture and its
centuries-long continuity.

Dubrovnik region

Days of Diocletian Archives

Narona Museum Archives

neath privately-owned vegetable plots and olive groves.
It’s still a pretty amazing place, however, with the remains
of a 17,000-seater amphitheatre, plenty of exposed city
walls and gates, and one of the biggest collections of
early-Christian basilicas ever excavated. Standing near the
centre of the site is the Tusculum, a house built by Bulić
to serve as a base for excavations and a venue for lavish
dinners based on Roman feasts – Bulić himself turned up
in a toga. Most of the things unearthed at Salona are on
display at the Split Archeological Museum (www.mdc.hr/
split-arheoloski/index.html), whose outdoor lapidarium
contains one of the best collections of stone-carved sarcophagi anywhere in Europe.
Stari Grad
Riding a bike across the fertile plain between Stari Grad
and Jelsa on the island of Hvar you might be forgiven for
thinking that the local vineyards, olive plantations and
dry-stone walls represent a typical Adriatic landscape of
great beauty but not necessarily any great significance. In

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24 Split In Your Pocket

Narona
Surrounded by the reeds and waterways of the Neretva
Delta, the Narona Archeological Museum (www.a-m-narona.hr) just west of Metković is an outstanding example of
how to display a historically significant archeological site
while at the same time making it an entertaining place to
bring the family. Key to its success is the building, a grey
shell built right on top of an excavations sit that can be
viewed through a glass floor. Metal stairways lead to upper levels of the museum where display cases contain
coins and ceramics, and eventually lead out onto the museum’s roof, which offers excellent views of the surrounding landscape. Narona was an important trading post on
the Roman road from Dalmatia into the Balkan interior. A
temple complex thought to have honoured the Emperor
Augustus is very much the museum’s centerpiece: Augustus and his household are represented by a group of
fourteen statues, although all of them are now headless
making identification somewhat difficult. One of the missing heads, thought to represent Augustus’s wife Livia, was
purchased from locals by British archeologist Arthur Evans
in the 1870s, and can currently be seen in the Ashmolean
Museum in Oxford.
Vela Spila, Vela Luka
Once you get past the Neanderthals of Krapina, the oldest
inhabitant of Croatia so far excavated is probably ‘Stanko’,
the 9000-year-old skeleton pulled out of an archeological trench in Vela Spila (www.velaspila.hr), a partially-collapsed cave on the hillside just above the Korčulan port of
Vela Luka. The site is of huge importance to students of
Mediterranean prehistory, having played host to successive human cultures from Stanko’s time onwards. The recent discovery of 17,500-year-old ceramic objects thought
to represent cult figures and animals sent waves of excitement through the global archeological community – although it will take some time before these extraordinarily
early ceramics are fully evaluated and put on display. The
cave itself doesn’t hold an archeological display as such,
but it’s a wonderfully evocative spot in which to ponder
the lifestyles of your distant ancestors. Many of the older
finds from Vela Spila are on show at the Vela Luka Cultural
Centre (www.czkvl.hr).
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Culture
Events
Split& Pulse

Vedrana Ilić

We asked locals - who live or work in Split to give us a few tips on how to enrich your
stay in this city and make it that bit more
interesting.

with local ingredients and very affordable prices. You can't
go wrong with anything you choose. Also, "DeBelly" has a
very interesting seafood menu, for example the rolled sea
bass fillet with prosciutto and chickpeas in sherry sauce,
mmmm.

dr.art. Dina Jakšić

dr. sc. Ana Peraica

Jakšić Gallery

Art historian, Atelier Peraica

SIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Dina: For a nightclub, certainly Judino Drvo, a very interesting space that offers an interesting and quality program.

SIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Ana: Since I live and work inside Diocletian's Palace, which
becomes overly hectic and crowded during the summer, I
take every chance I can to get away from the city center. So
my favorite places are bars located near the coast. I prefer
the Western side for coffee and the Eastern side during the
evenings, so that at every point I am turned to the sun.

SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?
Dina: First Vidilica, it's a magical place!
SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Dina: The Palace is the most valuable place to see in Split,
so a walk through the city is the best way to discover the
city with a recommendation not to forget to look up more
often.
SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend as a souvenir from Split?
Dina: In this case, I would recommend our gallery because
we offer original designs made using materials that surrounds us. Certainly supporting local producers who offer
high-quality products in Split.
SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?
Dina: One of the better restaurants in Split is "Mattoni"
restaurant on Bačvice, they have a very interesting menu
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SIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Split?
Ana: To me, Marjan hill is the most relaxing place in the
city, since it offers a nice shadow.
SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Ana: Walking around. You cannot get lost as every road
leading downwards takes you back to the center and to
the sea.
SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend as a souvenir from Split?
Ana: Well, Split is not yet the most brilliant place for shopping, although if I were a tourist, I would go to the secondhand market located near the City Park Đardin, just a
bit north of the large sculpture. There are many antiquities and vintage items from the area sold at modest prices
compared to other parts of Europe.
Summer 2015

25

Split Pulse
Culture
& Events
SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?
Ana: There are not that many specialties in Dalmatia. Recipes are more or less similar to other Mediterranean countries. Still, food production, especially from family ranches,
and fish, are of remarkable quality. So, just have a look at
the market and fish market.

Luka BokavŠek
Manager of Bokeria
SIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Luka: Coffee - Lvxor, the pjaca, the waterfront (coffee to
go and sitting by the sea), the West Coast (F de Mar) Nightlife, Gaga summer
SIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Split?
Luka: Vidilica, Hotel Marshal's terrace, all of the places by
the sea (ACI, Zenta, Ovčice).
SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Luka: A walk through the center (geto, the cellars, pazar
(the market), peškarija (the fish market) , along the West
Coast and climbing the stairs to Vidilica). A boat ride
around the harbor and a little further out in order to see a
wider image of the city from a distance.
SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend as a souvenir from Split?
Luka: Shopping at the malls, such as City Centre one, and
souvenirs around the town. The most beautiful souvenirs
are the wines, which you can buy at wine bars and kiosks/
shops/souvenir stores. Since wine adornes Dalmatia, and
tourist souvenirs are not much different from a single city
in the world, and we have nothing original.
SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?
Luka: Black risotto, grilled fish, pašticada, gregade, homemade wine (quality!), brandy and fruit liqueurs, olive oil
(usually virgin and flavored).

Vedrana Ilić
Graduated stylist, fashion designer and blogger:
mu-cephei.blogspot.com
SIYP: Where is your favourite place to drink coffee or
go out on the town at night?
Vedrana: My favourite places to sip on fresh juice or eat
a light breakfast are: Cafe Gallery, Cafe Fro, Café Perivoj
and the Bistro No Stress. When the sun sets and evening
comes, I prefer the restaurants Bokeria, Uje, Mazzgoon and
26 Split In Your Pocket

the newly opened Corto Maltese. All are located in the city
centre! The tavern-restaurant Nikola is definitely the best
fish restaurant nearby, and is located in Stobreč, a 10-minute drive from Split!
SIYP: Where is your favourite place to relax in Split?
Vedrana: In terms of wellness centres and spa programs,
the best places to unwind are the Radisson and the Filomena Lifestyle Club. I personally take time out when going
for a two-hour walk through the dense pine forest on the
Marjan, close to the sea! Also, I highly recommend boat
trips to nearby islands and beaches where you can literally
anchor on the waterfront.
SIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Vedrana: The best way to discover Split is by meeting
the locals and taking the time to wander and discover
the lovely and charming streets where you will find everything you need! If you are more of the unadventurous
type, then you have no choice but to venture into one of
the many travel agencies for more information.
SIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend as a souvenir from Split?
Vedrana: For my part, I am more a fan of edible souvenirs;
oils, wines, cookies, and authentic homemade local products like soaps, salves and natural cosmetics where their
fragrance and aroma remind me of my visit and stay. And
the city centre really has some great offers especially in the
stores Uje and Delicije. What I love most is chocolate with
Nin salt and flowers, spread figs, carob and rum, soaps
with olive oil, fig cake with pine nuts, preserved sea fennel, the liquor ‘Hrvatski San’ or better still ‘Croatian dream,’
and some of the indispensable Dalmatian premium wines
such as Barrique Tomić and the white wine Čara. If you do
wish for a souvenir that is a little more expensive, then I
do suggest the gold coin of the Emperor Diocletian in the
jewellery store B Vama. For our shopaholics some of the
tip top places include the ID concept store, Karla Stores
for shoes and handbags, M Optics for glasses, the concept
stores Get Get Get and Krug, and finally the Arterija Gallery.
SIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a ‘must-try’ for visitors?
Vedrana: When speaking of gastronomic specialties in
Split, I would definitely recommend; saur (traditionally
marinated fish), sipu s bobom (cuttlefish with broad beans),
slane srdele (anchovies), pašticada s njokima (beef stewed
in red wine and prunes with gnocchi), soparnik (savoury
pie with a filling of Swiss chard, onions and parsley), brujet (a seafood stew), gregada (fish stew) and rožata (crème
caramel) for dessert. Go to Luke’s for the best ice-cream
in town!

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Culture
& Events
Restaurants

Zinfandel’s Archives

One of the best things in life for many are the places where
you can drink and eat well. Diocletian's City has finally woken up in gastronomy. All those who favor Food & Beverages
(iće & piće) have the opportunity to try some fine dining
restaurants, brasseries and bistros, as well as traditional Dalmatian taverns.

EDITOR’S PICKS
Paradigma
This modern restaurant, which features Mediterranean
dishes, offers contemporary Dalmatian cuisine made with
a flair. By using local flavours mixed with fresh ingredients
inspired from Greece, Southern Italy, Provence and Spain,
they have revolutionized gastronomy in Split. They offer
exquisitely presented seashells, fish and meat with seasonal vegetables. Sip from a bottle of local or international
wine from a Connoisseur's List of the finest high-quality
old and new world wines while overlooking the crystal
blue waters and savouring a delicious meal from their private rooftop created in the shape of a cruise ship's bow. A
simple and calm environment decorated in soft blue tones
creates a relaxing atmosphere to dine in. They are striving for a Michelin star and are a proud member of Jeunes
Restaurateurs d'Europe.QI-2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 3,
tel. (+385-21) 64 51 03, [email protected], www.
restoranparadigma.hr. Open 08:00 - 00:00. (90 - 350kn).
PTJAGBXW
Pikulece
For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas
bar and restaurant, where you can savour excellent flavours in a variety of meat and fish dishes, such as mussels,
octopus ispod peke, as well as tasty bruschetta and quiche.
The cozy wooden atmosphere and beautifully presented
food will leave you with a satisfied gastronomic experience.QJ-2, Dominisova 6, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08,
[email protected], www.uje.hr. Open 18:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 150kn). PTJA6GBXW
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Zrno soli
This restaurant has class written all over it. It is stylish both
in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has lovely
views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean, the
service is second to none and if you do not mind forking
out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what you pay
for. Quality all-round!QC-2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21)
39 93 33/(+385-) 091 561 22 84, zrnosoli.split@gmail.
com, www.zrnosoli.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:30. (80 - 100kn).
PA6GBXW

CROATIAN
bajamonti
Located in the Prokurative Square, Bajamonti is named
after one of Split’s former mayors who built a theater in
1859, which was the most modern in Dalmatia at the time.
Today, it is a restaurant-cafe that offers traditional Mediterranean meat and fish dishes. You can even pick a lobster
of your choice from the fish tank! Flowers always decorate
each of the tables based on the season and they also hold
various concerts, wine tastings and exhibitions.QC-3, Trg
Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 33, bajamonti.split@
gmail.com, www.restoran-bajamonti.hr. Open Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun
09:00 - 00:00. (75 - 350kn). PTJAGBXW
Dvor
Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot
for a delicious meal. Offering delectable Mediterranean
dishes, as well as delicious desserts such as tiramisu and
maraskina, made with cream chocolate and maraschino
cherry liqueur.QE-3, Put Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57
15 13, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. (50 - 180kn).
PTA6LGBXW
Grego Levante
Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an original stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside,
Summer 2015

27

Restaurants
Culture
& Events
the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of freshness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish
or shrimp.QD-3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22,
[email protected]. Open 12:00 - 23:30. (60 130kn). PJ6NGBXW
Ma:toni
This beautifully decorated restaurant is located in an
arched room, adorned in warm cream tones with dark
wooden tables. Metal doors and chandeliers give a Middle
Ages feel to the place. They offer traditional Mediterranean food, using fresh seasonal ingredients, created with
a contemporary twist.QD-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel.
(+385-21) 27 84 57, [email protected], www.matoni.com. Open 12:30 - 23:30. Closed Mon. (60 - 120kn).
PTA6GBXW
Tratorria Tinel
Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among the
stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and credenza
that give a homey feel to this restaurant. It’s a great place
to eat when you’re not sure what you’re in the mood
for since the menu has a large variety of choices to satisfy everyone’s cravings. Chicken, mixed vegetable or
calamari salads, with a side of fish or cream of shrimp soup
can be enjoyed for starters. Tortellini with four cheeses,
homemade gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, green
pasta with salmon or veal steak served Viennese style
are great choices for a main course.QH-2, Tomića Stine
1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97, [email protected], www.
trattoria-tinel.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).
PA6GBXW
Uje Oil Bar
Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first
Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining
with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh
ingredients coming through. The one thing that doesn’t
change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly amazing culinary experience.QJ-2, Dominisova 3, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, [email protected].
Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 200kn).
PJA6GBW

SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

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28 Split In Your Pocket

Villa Spiza
Located by Diocletian’s palace, Villa Spizza offers fresh
homemade food that is prepared right in front of you. This
small and cozy restaurant offers a simple, yet varied menu,
with vegetable soup, risotto and pasta dishes, such as pasta with prawns or risotto with sea shells, as well as rump
steak and lamb chops. They offer a daily selection of new
traditional Dalmatian dishes made using only seasonal
fresh ingredients.QI-2, Kružićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 091 152
12 49, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
Closed Sun. (60 - 130kn). PTJ6NGBXW

international
Aci Grašo
With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the
Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any
of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine
with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free.QC-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+38521) 39 85 60, [email protected], www.
adriaticgraso.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 125kn).
PAGBW
Adriana
It’s a prime location for people watching and the food is
top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or
fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes
on weekdays come summer time. Fairly priced!QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34
00 00, [email protected], www.hotel-adriana.hr. Open
07:00 - 24:00. (75 - 160kn).
PJAGBW
Apetit
Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a
modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the
first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green
colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian
classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just
a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian
choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass.QI-2,
Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-) 098 173 07
36, [email protected], www.apetit-split.hr. Open
11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 120kn). PJA6GW
Bistro Toć
Curl up among the greenery and stone walls of this cozy
little terrace, decorated with sailboat pictures and hanging
plants. Offers a vegetarian menu, such as grilled tofu salad,
grilled cheese with soy sauce and zucchini spaghetti with
salsa. For meat lovers, chicken spaghetti, gulaš and sarma,
is also available. For dessert, a snickers or jaffa cookie cake
are like tasting heaven in a bowl.QJ-3/K-3, Šegvića 1, tel.
(+385-21) 48 84 09, [email protected]. Open 07:00 23:30. (50 - 150kn). PAGBXW

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Culture & Events

Contemporary
Mediterranean
Rooftop Dining
Dine on the deck in the heart of
Split and indulge in Mediterranean
fare with flair, inspired by Croatia,
Greece, Southern Italy, Provence
and Spain.

Ulica Bana Jelačića 3, Split
T: +385 (0)21 645 103
www.restoranparadigma.hr

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Summer 2015

29

Restaurants
Zagreb
Pulse

Boban
The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful
settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared with
traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the
best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This
place does it all, and does it well.QE-3, Hektorovićeva 49,
tel. (+385-21) 54 33 00, [email protected],
www.restaurant-boban.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 120kn). PA6GBXW
Bokeria Kitchen & Wine
Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was inspired by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The modern and classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls,
which are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a
mosaic tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A
massive chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the
middle of the room and extends over two floors. The restaurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu
is decided based on the season and the vegetables available. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that
the ingredients are always fresh.QI-2, Domaldova 8,
tel. (+385-21) 35 55 77, [email protected]. Open 08:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (75 - 250kn).
PTJA6GBXW
Brasserie on 7
Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking
the Adriatic Sea, French gastronomy is combined with
Croatian cuisine to create these delicious dishes. Spinach
30 Split In Your Pocket

and octopus salad, mussels, cheese platters, as well as
tuna steak and the Catch of the Day fish are just some of
the appetizing Mediterranean meals available.QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82
33, [email protected], www.brasserieon7.com.
Open 08:00 - 01:00. (60 - 180kn). PTJA6Gi
BXW
Cardo
A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed
by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine
that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a
wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the
wallet and is sure to please.QJ-1, Domovinskog rata 49a
(Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotelatrium.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). PAGi
BXW
Kadena
Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine
Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze
across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena
is just one of the many delights on offer.QE-3, Ivana pl.
Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94 00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85,
[email protected], www.restorankadena.com.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (60 - 130kn).
PA6GBXW
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Restaurants
Zagreb
Pulse
Le Monde
Dine with a touch of class as this slightly hidden restaurant
boasts a trim interior and a choice of terraces. Dalmatian
fish and meat specialties are on the menu along with local wine. It’s tucked away in the busy Varoš district but
worth the visit.QH-1, Plinarska 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 22
65. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn).
PA6GBXW
Marshal
Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and picturesque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all
rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice,
such as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast, to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner,
they offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as
well as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes. For a perfect end to any meal, try a delicious slice of cheesecake
or rožata.QI-2, Zadarska 13 (Hotel Marmont), tel. (+38521) 30 80 60, [email protected], www.
marmonthotel.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (90 - 150kn).
PABW
NoStress Bistro
Located on the famous, Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is
decorated with an abundance of flower pots, adorning the
terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. A great
spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion
trends walking by the square, while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian
region, such as wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp
on truffle cream cheese or beef fillet steak with creamy
saffron sauce. During the summer season, it’s open until
02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night.
QI-2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88. Open
07:30 - 24:00. (80 - 220kn). iJA6BXW

TAVERN

WINE BA R

OLIVE OIL TASTING

Zinfandel’s food & wine bar
According to the owners, they wanted the interior to be
both industrial and rustic looking and it truly looks exquisite. Importantly, they’ve also managed to capture the
hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine
and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines
and impeccable service. It is tucked away in a quiet little
alley close to the Diocletian’s Palace.QJ-2, Marulićeva
2, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 35, [email protected].
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (65 - 130kn).
PJA6GBXW

seafood
Mistral
Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience
with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks.
The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments
of every sort imaginable. If you’re peckish, Mistral serves
up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other
delicacies.QF-3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort,
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Summer 2015

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Restaurants
Zagreb
Pulse
ethnic
Biser Orijenta
Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The location is a little odd since the restaruant is situated on
the fifth floor of one of the bussines buildings in Split,
but the interior is perfecto and the view makes up for
all that. A mere 10 minute walk from the Đardin Park.
QD-2, Bihaćka 2a/V, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 76, www.
biser-orijenta.com. Open 11:30 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn).
PABW
Bistro Samurai
Conveniently situated in the city centre and just
across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast
range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior,
one can expect the complete Japanese experience in
food, dining and culture.QI-2, Bana Josipa Jelačića
1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, [email protected],
www.sushibarsplit.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
17:00 - 23:00. (22 - 75kn). PAGW
Kebap & Meze bar Istah
East meets west with a tasty selection of meze, Turkish delicacies and kebabs to be had - Halal certified!
Food is not the only attraction with authentic Turkish tea and coffee on the menu. Positioned outside
of the city centre and near the Poljud pools, this bar
has a relaxed and cosy atmosphere as well as a mini
terrace.QC-1, Put Supavla 1, tel. (+385-21) 38 06 40,
[email protected], www.istah.hr. Open 12:00 - 20:00,
Fri 14:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20 - 49kn).
PNGBXW
Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, info.split@radissonblu.
com, www.radissonblu.com/resort-split. Open 12:00 18:00. (80 - 200kn). TA6LBXW
Noštromo
Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of
seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo
is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area
and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the
ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.
QI-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, info@
restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restoran-nostromo.hr.
Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). P6NGBW
Posejdon
Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an
assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer.
It’s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace,
when you pass ‘Ispod ure’ (under the clock tower) simply
turn right.QI-2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49. Open
10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 200kn). PJA6GBW
32 Split In Your Pocket

Stellon
Stelon’s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean cuisine.
The restaurant overlooks the beach and has a pleasingly
contemporary ambience, creating relaxed surroundings
for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve your seat
during the summer!QD-3, Uvala Bačvice bb, tel. (+38521) 48 92 00, [email protected], www.restaurantstellon.com. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:30.
(45 - 145kn). PA6GBXW

pizza
Galija
The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near
the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the
bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide
selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive
portionsQI-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79
32. Open 09:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (43 - 150kn).
PA6GBXW
Gušt
You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it’s
right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right.
After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again.
There you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.QJ-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+38521) 48 63 33. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (32 - 55kn).
PA6GW
Lučica
Dining in Lučica is quite fine. The prices are fair, the pizza
ain’t bad, actually it’s quite good. It’s located at the Spinut
Marina, on the northern side of Mt Marjan.QC-2, Lučica 7,
tel. (+385-21) 38 67 63. Open 08:00 - 23:30. (50 - 100kn).
PALGBXW
Maslina
A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest
you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service
is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled
with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak
rolled in pancetta.QI-2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49
88, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 120kn). PJA6GBW
Velo misto No 1
Located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent
wood-fire pizza. Velo Misto by the way, was the name of
a popular TV series with performances by top Split theatre
thespians.QH-1, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38 47 77.
Open 09:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (32 - 140kn).
PAGBW

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fast food

Restaurants
Zagreb
Pulse

Bepa
Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming fast food restaurant is the perfect spot to stop by for
a quick meal. They serve all kinds of dishes, such as fish
& chips, sandwiches, fish burgers, salads and omelets.
To satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a warm croissants or a
delicious piece of pie.QI-2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21)
35 55 46, [email protected], www.bepa.hr. Open
07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. (30 - 100kn). PTi
JA6GBXW
Kantun Paulina
Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi,
namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little
stand on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street
and watch the night-time drama unfold.QI-2, Matošića 1,
tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. B
Rizzo
Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis,
Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly
baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack.QI-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/
(+385-) 091 574 07 64, www.rizzo.com.hr. Open 08:00
- 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (8 - 20kn). NBW

street food
The street food restaurant’s priority is that the food tastes
good and some dishes are made using local products. They
offer everything from meat, soup, seafood and vegetables
to smaller authentic Dalmatian cuisine. Last but not least,
you can eat a meal that is not that expensive.
Corto Maltese Freestyle Food
Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal in this great vintage
chic atmosphere. Brick walls and a wooden bar create an
Americani-like environment, juxtaposing the Mediterranean food made with a creative twist. You can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad to fish and sandwiches.
Their versatile menu will satisfy everyone.QI-2, Obrov
7, tel. (+385-21) 58 72 01/(+385-) 092 160 10 00, info@
cortomaltese.rocks, www.cortomaltese.rocks. Open
08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (50 - 120kn).
PTJA6GBXW
La Regina del Formaggio
A beautifully decorated deli store and snack bar located in
the heart of Split where you can savour Italian and Croatian delicacies, such as high-quality wines and cheeses,
as well as Italian craft beer, exotic salads and sandwiches.
QI-2, Ulica bana J. Jelačića 21, tel. (+385-) 091 558 40
12, [email protected], www.reginadelformaggio.
com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (30 - 80kn).
PTJAGBXW
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Summer 2015

33

Restaurants
Zagreb
Pulse
tian wines, authentic souvenirs and gift packages! The
bar is set in a traditional stone building, perfect for wine
and only minutes from the Riva. The owner is quite the
connoisseur, he does offer wine tastings accompanied
with various local delicacies.QK-3, Kuzmanićeva 13, tel.
(+385-) 091 380 39 66, [email protected].
Open 10:00 - 22:00. NGBW
Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar
This wine and cheese bar has ‘Dalmatia’ written all over it
with over 100 wines. Representing the diversity and quality of wines in this region, 50 wines are available to try by
the glass. As well, they offer about 20 artisan cheeses that
are primarily produced locally. You can pick and choose
whatever suits your taste buds as you relax in their cozy interior space with stonewalls set against elm and oak furniture. They have an extremely friendly staff, many of which
hold wine qualifications. They also have been mentioned
in numerous national and international publications for
their high-quality products and service.QI-1, Poljana
Tina Ujevića 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 58 54, paradox.bar@
paradox.hr, www.paradox.hr/bar. Open 09:00 - 24:00,
Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PJAGBXW

out of town

vegetarian
Makrovega
If you’re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg…
you’ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed
fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown
or organic.QI-2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40,
[email protected], www.makrovega.hr. Open
09:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. From September 15 Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 60kn).
PNGBXW
Up Café
An ultra-modern, chic oasis of healthy food and natural
beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. This healthy cuisine, offers a
huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, sushi, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes
with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert,
such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, taste great along with a Bazara arabic
coffee, bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD-2, Domovinskog
rata 29a, www.upcafe.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00
- 21:30. From September 15 Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sun
08:00 - 15:00. (15 - 45kn). PNGBXW

wine bars
Klub gurmana i hedonista
A fancy schmancy interior that houses traditional Dalma34 Split In Your Pocket

Baletna škola
Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from
the sea, it’s located 15min from the center of Split by car.
Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which
was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now
renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalmatian
specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or meat,
which can be savoured while listening to traditional klapa music.QDon Frane Bege 2, Kaštel Kambelovac, tel.
(+385-21) 22 02 08, [email protected],
www.restoran-baletnaskola.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 100kn). PALGBXW
Konoba Nikola
A family-run restaurant, founded in 2000, they have created a comfortable and homey environment, adorned
with nautical knickknacks and photographs, to enjoy a
delicious Mediterranean meal in. They offer meals combining traditional local cuisine with contemporary twists,
using predominantly fresh fish and shellfish. Reservations
are recommended.QIvankova 42, tel. (+385-21) 32 62
35, [email protected]. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (60 - 300kn). PTA6Li
GXW

marenda & bevanda
If your travels take you to the coast, to the Dalmatian towns
and cities, to Split especially. If you end up at some tavern
and if you see that at one of the tables sits a group that
at the same moment are talking loudly and are chewing a
mouthful of delicious food, do not be afraid - they are only
eating marenda (brunch)!
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“Pr
o
TRG kur
REP ati
UBL ve

IKE

Restaurants
Zagreb
Pulse

“Riv
a”

fish restaurant
SEA FOOD | CROATIAN WINES | MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE

Trg Republike 1, Split
[email protected]
www.restoran-bajamonti.hr
Marenda is not, what it may seem at first, just satisfying a
person’s need for food. It is a whole lot more, a populations
habit, which you need to see through a window. Because,
when a group of friends gather together, in the early morning, and sit down at a table with a full plate, it is difficult
to discern whether they have gathered for the delicacies,
or if they made their way around the delicacies in order to
make their conversation more comfortable and friendlier,
so that they can return back to their jobs easier, which they
fled, for marenda, for a moment. However, the modern age
has changed everything, and we fear that brunch will be
put to an end.
Marenda to Dalmatians is what five o’clock tea is to the
English. The time you spend waiting for marenda you’re
like a locked and loaded gun, whether you’re a first grader
who likes to eat, or a mature man. Marenda time could pay
tribute to the modern world in which we live. Marenda has
always taken place somewhere between ten o’clock in the
morning and noon. By ten, let alone by noon, the working
class would have starved a hundred times, and when this
hunger is combined with Mediterranean casualness, then
you can enjoy. You can still eat everything at this mealfrom tripe and pašta fažol (Dalmatian beans with pasta), to
polpeta u šugu (meatballs and sauce) and manistra usuvo
(spaghetti and meat sauce), to boiled meat and fried sardines and even veal shank. Modern times, however, have
moved the time of marenda. Today, there are less and less
workers, the employed individual eats later and often eats
alone, and there are less taverns and more restaurants.
Delicacies are, however, the same, and tripe and fažol, and
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polpete u šugu and minestrone usuvo, and boiled meat and
fried sardines, as well as veal shanks. Is marenda threatened
to become extinct, when it is not protected as an intangible
UNESCO good!?
Darko Barteić, eater and hedonist, overall connoisseur of
food and wine, the author of “Plavuše bez kostiju” and a
blue fish cook, which is largely eaten at marenda, is still not
fearful even if everything is changing. Because, he says, the
time to have marenda is important, but the marenda spirit
is even more important! Marenda is not only about eating,
marenda is about socializing. It’s a group that binds a lot
more than just food. The group is held together in a wondrous, intimate, and almost conspiratorial way, a group that
has a sense of humor, the same joke, and with all that also
loves rustic and homemade food. And if that is the case,
then Baretić is right when he says that marenda can occur
in spite of everything and at any hour, at the crack of dawn,
as well as at midnight.
- The marenda spirit implies openness, socializing goodness. If you’re not a good person, people will not have
brunch with you. Only a good person can have marenda
- says Baretić.
And that’s the truth, and the most important thing you
need to know about marenda. Only a good person can
and knows how to have brunch. If you are this type do not
hesitate when you see in a tavern a group which is enjoying
their meal. In fact, they themselves will recognize in you
that goodness and openness and good food, and will embrace you as their own. So that there is tripe and pašta fažol,
polpeta u šugu and manistra usuvo, boiled meat and fried
Summer 2015

35

Restaurants
sardines, and even veal shank.
And when you’ve already left for marenda, it is quite possible, if not mandatory, that along with your meal you will
drink a bevanda. Yes, maybe some will think that mixing
wine and water is blasphemy and a sin, but it is an ancient
custom for farmers to dilute wine to quench their thirst.
Today individuals know much more about good wine and
they try not to dilute it as much. But, after marenda if you
want to explore the cities and towns of Dalmatia, in the sun,
it is not wise to drink strong Dalmation wine. Drink bevanda
and everything will seem different, better. Since, bevanda is
also a part of Dalmatian “five o’clock tea.” However, here we
simply call it - marenda! By Siniša Pavić
Fife
Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional
Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular
meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and
actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish
stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served
with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed
paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist
guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much
in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.QH-3, Trumbićeva obala
11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23, [email protected]. Open
06:00 - 24:00. (35 - 65kn). P6NGBXW
Hvaranin
To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once
spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception
as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made
rakija.QH-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 099 667
58 91. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 300kn).
PAGBXW
Kod Joze
Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely
delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from
Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with
rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and
the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with
shells is a knock out.QJ-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21)
34 73 97. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 140kn). PA6GBW
Konoba Leut
This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it offers
good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dalmatian
cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with gnocchi. A
local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant on the
menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - clams. Plate salads are
also on the menu for a lighter bite.QH-2/3, Siriščevića 1,
tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn).
PA6GBW
36 Split In Your Pocket

Konoba Nevera
Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in
a nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman
statue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and
gorgeous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A
great place for when you’re in the mood for Mediterranean
seafood cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus
salad and grilled fish. QE-3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38
87 36/(+385-) 099 501 74 85, www.konoba-nevera.com.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn). PAGBXW
Konoba Varoš
It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street
with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu
may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your
taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from
the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s
a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is
endless.QH-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38,
[email protected]. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
(30 - 150kn). PAGBW
Oštarija u Viđakovi
With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach,
this is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best
traditional fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as
tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out
an extensive menu, although you can opt for fancy fish
and lobster dishes if you’re in the mood to splash out. The
intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the roomy basement provides the space
you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils and black-and-white photos of old
Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit.
QD-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/
(+385-) 091 565 46 27. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 360kn).
PA6GBXW
Pimpinella
A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house. The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada,
roast lamb with vegetables and much more.QE-3,
Spinčićeva 2a, tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091
121 30 14, [email protected], www.pimpinella.
hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (45 - 70kn).
PA6EGBXW
Šperun
A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city
near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings.
The daily special is often a good bet.QH-2, Šperun 3, tel.
(+385-21) 34 69 99, [email protected]. Open
09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 130kn). PJAGBW

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Summer 2015

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Restaurants
Local Flavour

food markets
When it comes to food the people of Dalmatia like to have
theirs simple, fresh and grown locally. There are no exotic
spices or complex preparations, just natural flavours. And
boy, do they taste great. In Split there is no shortage of
fantastic ingredients, and there is no better place to get
them than the local farmers’ market and fish market, or as
Splićani call them, Pazar (Pah-zar) and the Peškarija (pesh
kah ria). Now, in the mind of a foreigner it would be logical to keep these two close, but they are at exactly the opposite ends of the Riva, the main thoroughfare that runs
along the quayside. This is mainly due to the fact that the
peškarija is close to the former fishing port of Matejuška,
while Pazar is near to one of the main roads since most
of the veg is grown inland. The good thing is that Pazar is
very close to the bus station and the ferry port, so if you
can spare a few minutes before leaving for your favourite
island you can stock up on veg since it’s at least three times
more expensive on the islands. Aside from its practical uses,
Pazar is one of those places where the local population and
pleasure-seeking tourists tend to mix without prejudice. It’s
a gathering place for people from islands like Brač, Hvar and
Šolta, for the mountain people of Dalmatinska Zagora and
for people from smaller local towns like the seven Kaštelas.
All of them bring their produce to the concrete benches in
the shade of the eastern wall of Diocletian’s palace. Here
you can find everything that grows under the sun, from
strawberries, fresh or dried figs, lemons, grapes and pomegranates to wild asparagus, sun-ripened and sweet-smelling tomatoes, plus all kinds of green leafy veg like spinach
and chard, aubergines, carrots, courgettes, goats’ and
sheep’s cheeses, homemade jams and preserves, liqueurs
and brandies, cured meats and fresh poultry. It’s a veritable
cornucopia of flavours and colours, garnished with the lively banter of the sales people who are hoping to persuade
you to taste their goods and buy their products.
Some of these market sellers have been feeding the
38 Split In Your Pocket

Splićani for generations. Depending on the time of day you
arrive, Pazar can be quite an overwhelming experience, so
it’s sometimes wise to buy a cold beer at a nearby kiosk
and join the locals in the shade waiting for the prices to
go down towards the end of the day. Now you’ve got all of
your meat and veg and some wine and brandy, it’s time to
pick out a nice piece of fish at the fish market. The peškarija
is located smack bang in the middle of Marmontova, the
nice marble-paved street at the western end of the Riva.
You must have seen it or at least smelled it out. No worries,
due to the sulphur wells that brought Diocletian here, the
air here keeps the fish hygienic as there are no flies. The
fish market opens early, with the morning catch coming
in even before 07:00, so set an alarm clock if you want the
best pieces to end up on your grill. Dalmatian people do
not eat expensive fish like dentex, john dory or the other
prize catches. These all go to restaurants or tourists. Locals
prefer cheaper, smaller fish like sardines, anchovies, bonito,
squid, seabream, mackerel and red mullet. These fish are
not only easy on the pocket, they’re tasty and healthy too
- the benefits of oily fish like sardine and mackerel are renowned. Feeling a bit nervous about buying fresh fish? Just
look for shiny scales, clear eyes and firm flesh. Check the
gills too, which should be bright red. Now you bought it,
you will have to gut it. Gross? Ask the person behind the
counter, if they’re not too busy they might oblige. If not,
best stick to the restaurants.

local dishes
Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from various parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple
tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste
them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tasting all this if you don’t have the good fortune of being invited to someone’s house where mama will surprise your
taste buds? One option is to go exploring among the many
konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars
where you could slice some pršut and cheese or eat salted
anchovies after a hard day’s work). You’ll find these kinds of
restaurants scattered around the old city and the market.
Another option is to schedule your visit around the many
gastronomic events happening all summer around Split,
most of them based on a certain dish or ingredient. See
our guide to food festivals in the Split region. What sort of
dishes should you look out for? It depends on the season.
Local people tend to stick very much to what’s around at
a given time of year rather than relying on greenhousegrown produce or imports. So, in the spring, look out for
dishes made with artichokes or for young broad beans prepared in a million different ways, for example with lamb,
with squid ink… Mmm, it makes us hungry just thinking
about it. Also watch out for divlje zelje, greens picked in
the wild. Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish
simply grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes;
a black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or
the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet
or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. In cooler
seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with
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Local
Flavour
Restaurants
vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići a
speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These are
little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats.
These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special
occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a sharp eye
you might come across a pogača hailing from the island
of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of
salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs
depending on the version. Or from inland, look out for
soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and spring onions,
scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive
oil. These are specialities you might find on sale at Pazar
market. On a sweeter note, look out for compressed cakes
of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly made at home and
truly delicious. A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski
medenjak, a biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though
you’ll probably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica
patisserie in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir,
look out for rafiole. These are little half-moons made from
almonds and maraschino liqueur. Legend has it they were
invented by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in
the Kamerlengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came
to rescue her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of
her days as a mark of her gratitude.

HUNGRY TRAVELLERS
Tips for hungry travellers around the coastline
Baškotin
A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of
St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they’ve
been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which
is the signature special monastery recipe. At 60kn per kilogramme, we’ll toast to that!
Benkovačka vara
Looking for some original food from the Zadar region,
then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer
months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans
and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive oil. One
of the places to find it is at the Pet bunara in Zadar.
Cheese to please!
Devotees to cheese on the fine pallet ought to try cheese
made with sage, or rosemary immortelle as well as cheese
aged in walnut leaves. The Magriž Cheese Factory is family
run in Kornić, on the island of Krk, and can be found on
Ulica 17. travnja 13, where they sell their products at their
very doorstep.
Have you ever eaten dormice?
Roman emperors ate dormice (or puh in Croatian) which
were popular appetisers in their day. The tradition continues in the tiny village of Dol, on the island of Brač. Konoba
Toni is a tavern where they prepare dormice on a spit or if
you find yourself in Fužine, Gorski Kotar around September, dormice goulash is the thumbs up.
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If in the village Vid…
A revelation in the Neretva County is the audaciously
spiced fish stew made of frogs and eels which you can find
at the restaurant named Mate and Đuđe, in Vid. Bring the
mints!
Povitica Cheesecake
A typical cheesecake cake from the Vrbnik region weighing 2kg whole! Here it is all in the process with the freshest
local ingredients used which includes sheep milk cheese
from the Krk Island. This one of a kind dessert can be found
at the restaurant called ‘Nada’ (Vrbnik).
Rab or Lošinj
If you are staying on the islands of Rab or Lošinj then why
not try their ala natural delicacy - dried octopus. You can
even have it with scrambled eggs for breakfast, kid you
not!
Show us some mussels
Ok seafood lovers, particularly those who love mussels!
Drive to a place called Poljica, near Marina (the road to
Split) and you can buy mussels per kg in shell farms, and
then roast them on the grill which is finger lickn good!
The island of Ist, ist good!
Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for
an authentic special called majolino!
Try Pipi
When in Split or parts of Dalmatia, look for the gassy fresh
drink Pipi, a bubbly drink that you can only find in these
parts and is mega popular. It is a fuse between Fanta and
Miranda but original to Split. Lots of cafes sell it so bug the
waiters and request a Pipi, it is perfect on a blistering hot
summer day! If you can’t find it, look up Dalmacijavino in
our Shopping category!
Vis or Komiža bread?
A dilemma that’s been debated for centuries is best to be
solved on the island of Vis.
What’s so salty…?
When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce
salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin
Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of
salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you
bread up!
What to have for breakfast…
Pujina with sugar of course! Pujina is the whey that is left
after cheese production. It differs from standard cheese
with its ingredients of fat and protein, and is consumed
fresh. Ask around the islands of Pag or Brač on where to
buy fresh pujina for a hearty breakfast.

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Summer 2015

39

Local Flavour
Restaurants
END OF JULY / BEGINNING OF AUGUST
The Soparnik Festival
Pie to try! Head to the Dalmatian town of Dugi Rat between Split and Omiš for the 11th edition of this mouthwatering experience. This pie made of mangold, spring onions and parsley which are portioned between two layers
of the simplest dough. Dating since the Turkish invasions
in Croatia, this is such a popular dish that it has earned its
own festival.QDugi Rat, www.tz-dugirat.hr.
16.08 SUNDAY
Hrapačuša Night
The village of Dol has its very own living legend - a lady
named Barica who is proud holder of the title of World
Champion in the making of Hrapačuša cake. Some may
point out that Hrapačuša is only made on Brač and in
particular in Dol and that this is therefore no achievement
at all, but we defy anyone to taste the cake of Barica and
tell us that she is not among the greats of this planet, or
even neighbouring galaxies, in the art of making cake. Her
Hrapačuša is a crescendo of nuts, lemon, caramelised sugar and egg yolk, a calorific atom bomb. Try Barica’s awardwinning cake in Konoba Toni or at island gastronomy festival Hrapačuša Night.QDol, Brač island.
28.08 FRIDAY
The Salsa and Šalša Festival
What better way to spice up the hot summer days on the
coastal town of Kaštel Štafilić than with a touch of hot passionate salsa dancing, combined with spicy salsa sauce,
(šalša in Croatian) that is the epitome of every Mediterranean cuisine. Lively Cuban dance rhythm will accompany
contestants who will compete in preparing original meals
made of salsa tomato sauce, so make sure you join the
locals and their guests for this wonderful event.QKaštel
Štafilić, www.kastela-info.hr.
28.08 FRIDAY - 29.08 SATURDAY
Wine Fair in Jelsa
Fancy a glass or two! The gorgeous and always sunny island of Hvar is famous for its exceptional wines and the
idyllic town of Jelsa is home to the island’s best wines and
local specialties. The streets of Jelsa turn into a summer
stage with dance, music and singing by popular klape
vocals who foster traditional Dalmatian sound with their
amazing a cappella singing.QJelsa, Hvar, www.tzjelsa.hr.

FOODIE’S GUIDE
01.06 MONDAY - 30.09 WEDNESDAY
Kopačina Lamb Festival
Every Thursday, starting from around 19:00, you can try
about 15 different specialities made from lamb, including
lamb’s liver pate, lamb with broad beans and a host of different specialities. Be sure to reserve your table - it’s very
busy.QKonoba Kopačina, Donji Humac, Brač island.

40 Split In Your Pocket

05.09 SATURDAY
Iz Solinskog lonca
The gastronomic happening “From Solin’s Pot” sees
people compete in preparing dishes based on local flour
ground at a local watermill - the mlinica. Dishes include
home-made pasta in meat sauces, breads and cakes. Carbs
galore!QGašpina mlinica , Solin, www.solin-info.com.

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Local
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Restaurants

11.09 FRIDAY - 13.09 SUNDAY
Days of Carob
The magical and breath-taking island of Vis is the perfect
setting for a tasting exhibition of numerous products
made of carob, from rakija and cakes to souvenirs and various beverages. A demonstration of processing carob and
the making of rakija will also be held.QKomiža, Vis, www.
tz-komiza.hr.
OCTOBER
Days of Varenik
An unusual ingredient called Varenik is thought to have
been made on Brač for 2000 years - it was mentioned during Roman times. It’s made by boiling red wine down to a
concentrate, which is then stored in bottles and added to
all sorts of foods, sweet and savoury, to impart a unique
and rich flavour. During the time of the Varenik festival
dishes are prepared showcasing the use of this ingredient,
and the island’s restaurants have a range of specials on the
menu.QBrač island.
OCTOBER
Dani bikle i Biklijada
This inland town is home to a special dish, bikla, a combination of goats’ milk and young local wine. This is served
along with other local specialties like frogs in parsley and
snails. All kinds of old crafts and culture are exhibited and
homemade produce is sold.QVrgorac, www.tzvrgorac.
hr.
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Become a wine
connoisseur
A sommelier's Jelena recommendations of which
wines to tickle your taste buds!
Jako vino, Brač: Stina Pošip Majstor
A white wine with a fuller body, exquisitely fruity in
aroma. Very nice, well-balanced and kept in wooden
barrels. An extract wine of exceptional elegance and a
fine addition in general and in particular with seafood.
Tomić Bastijana, Hvar: Belec, Pošip & Bogdanuša
A white wine in the blend of indigenous variety, very
lovable to those with an aroma for flora. Very light thus
fit for daily consummation. Mineral, slightly acidic and
light in body. A great summer refreshment.
Skaramuča, Pelješac
Dingač Skaramuča, top quality wine, medium-bodied,
aged in wood, nicely rounded, extremely rich and
fruity. Finely acidic and expressively harmonious. A
strong and mature wine tendered well with venison
or ham.

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41

Local Flavour
Coffee
& Cakes
Fly-in Café Bar
European Coastal Airlines - FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the
airports Resnik, Rab, Jelsa. Everyone and not only passengers, are welcomed at the café to enjoy the beautiful surroundings, which will offer not only drinks, but snacks as
well, such as sandwiches.Qwww.ec-air.eu.
Galerija
Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole
range of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut
cakes, strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those pursuing something stronger have numerous
fruit cocktails, local/international beers, wines and liquors
to keep you jostling!QJ-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15,
[email protected]. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJ6NGBXW
Žbirac
It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice
for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has
a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach.
Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during
the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the
judge!QD-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b, akrapante@
gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 02:00. PGBXW

Ćakula
Right on the Riva, the sea breeze gently blows whilst you
order your beverages from sunrise till dawn. Choose from
the fine range of beers, spirits, liqueurs, and cocktails on
offer and don’t forget peruse the café interior with its
renaissance like frescoes in what is a gorgeous setting.
QD-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, tel.
(+385-21) 78 23 38, www.kavana-cakula.hr. Open 07:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PJABXW
Favola
A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here’s a great
opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café along
Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they’d state its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it’s not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it. It’s name is
Italian for fairytale and we must absurdly state that the
female toilet is unusually narrow!QI-2, Trg braće Radić 1
(Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21) 34 48 48. Open 08:00 - 24:00.
PJAGBXW
42 Split In Your Pocket

Crème de la Crème
Crème de la Crème is a patisserie which offers exquisite
French-inspired desserts. They offer fantastic cakes, colourful macarons, delicious pastries and tarts, as well as
cheesecake and tiramisu served with coffee, liqueurs and
juices. They use only high-quality and fresh ingredients
to make their desserts. Its minimalistic interior includes
some trendy retro details and everything looks simple and
refreshing. Located opposite the movie theatre Karaman,
they also have a terrace for some outdoor peace and quiet.
As well, their master barista makes the best speciality coffee in town. QI-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 23,
www.cremedelacreme.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. October
Open 08:00 - 22:00. PJAGBXW
Kuća kolača
Love your cakes and want to try the traditional home recipes of the region, look no further as the staff here serves
homemade cakes, sweets and salty pastries. There is no
seating so it is all take out and on the go. Not bad if you
would like a nibble on the beach!QF-3, Ruđera Boškovića
bb, tel. (+385-) 098 930 07 54/(+385-) 095 926 40 30.
Open 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. NGW
Tradicija
This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand
old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits,
cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition - just as the name itself!QI-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+38521) 36 10 70. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30.
Closed Sun. NS
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Local
Flavour
Nightlife

The nightlife in Split is booming this time of year with
Matejuška the favourite for young people ready for a night
out; this is an area on the beachfront where crowds gather,
chat and mingle along the stone walls whilst having a
drink or two with friends. It's a typical ritual before hitting
the town and venturing out to famous city bars, pubs and
nightclubs. Just so you know, the party atmosphere never
ends in the streets behind the Pjaca, the Geto or in Bačvice.

bars
Clo bar
Located away from central Split, on the main road leading
towards Solin, this urban and modern bar is a great place
for a night out. With neon lights vibrating throughout the
place, they offer many exciting DJ filled nights with International artists. As well, it's a great place to sip a relaxing
cup of coffee during the day.QF-2, Domovinskog rata
104b, tel. (+385-) 099 211 02 03, [email protected], www.clo.
hr. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 07:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 02:00. PA6GBXW
Gaga
In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main
square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily
coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song
chatter of the interesting local folk.QI-2, Iza Lože 5, tel.
(+385-21) 34 82 57. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. PNBXW
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Ghetto
Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco
soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky
feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and
bees. Symbolic? You decide.QJ-2, Dosud 10. Open 09:00
- 02:00. PJ6ENBXW
Library Bar Marcvs Marvlvs
A beautiful wine and whiskey bar set in one of the city's
most important landmarks, the birthplace of the father of
Croatian literature, the 15th century poet Marko Marulić.
It's located right in front of the City Museum and only a
minute away from Peristil. During summer, its offer also includes small tapas meals as well as entertainment theme
nights such as tango nights or poetry evenings. Includes
a terrace and separate smoking area.QD-3, Papalićeva 4,
[email protected], www.marcvsmarvlvs.com. Open
09:00 - 01:00. PJBXW
Merita & Dino
Merita & Dino squeezes a great deal into a small space,
with spiral staircases linking an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched furnishings and bright interior colours. There's plenty of loungey furniture to slump
into, and a popular terrace outside. Serves draught Guinness.QJ-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 02:00. P6NBXW

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Local
Flavour
Nightlife
clubs
Hedonist
Exclusivity is the key and this café by day slash nightclub
by night has an ultramodern interior with an amazing
light show under the stars. Tis a local hot spot and does
attract some famous inhabitants. DJ’s play varied music
genres so prepare to dance the night away.QE-3, Put
Firula 53, tel. (+385-) 091 901 09 63, z_plenkovic40@
yahoo.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.
PABXW
Hemingway
Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact
your plimsoles won’t even make it past the door. This is
Split’s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe)
where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise
in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai.QC-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 211 99 93, [email protected],
www.hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
- 04:00. PAGBXW

Voi’Sa Archives

Na kantunu
Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge
Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at
least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you've
picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your
arrival in the city. Na Kantunu's real advantage however
is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small
square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few
Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed
Lobkowicz, it's also an outstanding place for a beer.QJ2, Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 91. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P6BXW
Split Circus
A very popular bar set at two locations depending on the
season. During summer it is open at Dosud Street 6 and
maintains a melancholy tone for chilling out and having
a drink or two. Whilst the rest of the year it is located at
Jadranska Street 1 where there is rockabilly, funk n jazz
nights and live concerts on Tuesdays and Thursdays.QJ-2,
Dosud 6, tel. (+385-) 097 782 43 27, split.circus2@gmail.
com. Open 20:00 - 01:00. JW
ST Riva
Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located
along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot
summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views
you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places
to chill whilst sipping beverages.QI-2, Obala hrvatskog
narodnog preporoda 18, [email protected], www.
st-riva.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.
PJGBW
44 Split In Your Pocket

Judino Drvo
Newly opened at the former Croatian Railway warehouse
this is the perfect place for a new club, as it’s located away
from residential areas. Neon noose lights hang from the
ceiling giving an eerie and artsy vibe to the dark and dingy
space.QE-1, Kopilica 24, [email protected],
www.judinodrvo.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00.
PJAULEGXW
O’Hara
Small groups of Split’s young hell-raisers mark the way to
their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with club
hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If you’re in the mood for a
quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere. QE-3,
Uvala Zenta 3, [email protected], www.ohara.hr.
Open 08:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 05:00. ABXW
Vanilla
Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent
this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town.QC-2,
Mediteranskih igara 21, tel. (+385-) 098 163 62 72,
www.vanilla.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 05:00. PAGBXW

casino platinum
Located within 5* hotel "Atrium", very close to city
center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside
underground garage, money exchange office, bar
lounge.QD-2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+38521) 27 48 00, www.casinoplatinum.hr. Open 00:00
- 24:00. PGXW
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Local
Flavour
Sightseeing
through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan
peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon
of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started
just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica,
which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several
points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century
Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th
and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to
Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and,
on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island
of Vis.QA/B-2/3.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

essential split
Diocletian's Palace (Dioklecijanova
palača)
A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from
the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why
practically any emperor would be more than happy to
locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from
all around the region, including white stone shipped from
the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from
Egypt. Diocletian's palace has become the quintessential
"living museum", as modern shops and citizens reside
within the walls of the ancient palace complex. The part
of the palace known as "the basement" was built during
the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed
above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up
with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it's
been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors
the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit
to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of
the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient
palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of
the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can
be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of
the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee,
surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.
QI/J-2.
Marjan Peninsula (Marjan)
When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia's
second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk
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Riva
If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog
narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical
looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure
to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad
street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the
old town and hugs the palace on its south side. It's the de
facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split
to engage in some of the activities that have been honed
to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and
people-watching. Split's Riva continues westwards and is
as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog
preporoda.
The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St
Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma)
Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who
took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but
the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original
designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor's tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used
in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants
of Diocletian's rule do remain, in the form of portraits of
the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of
the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars
to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr
who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early
Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian's victims, the
first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of
the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ-2.
Veli Varoš
Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is
characteristic of Dalmatia. It's well worth taking a stroll
around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of
what daily life is like around Split.QH-2.

Summer 2015

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Sightseeing
Local
Flavour
museums
Archaeological Museum (Arheološki
muzej)
Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s
archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The
museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly
from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured
are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along
with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal
and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC-2, Zrinsko
- Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, info@armus.
hr, www.armus.hr. Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. Admission 15 - 30kn.
Croatian Maritime Museum Split (Hrvatski pomorski muzej Split)
Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll
miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which
the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located
inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the
sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model
ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to
twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all
manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and
naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the
Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka.

AQUARIUM split
The largest aquarium in Croatia is located in Split!
With over 130 different fish species, including freshwater fish, turtles and crocodiles, it’s a treat to visit
with your family or friends. They have a total of 22
aquariums containing various characteristic fish species from the Adriatic Sea, such as sharks, lobsters,
muraena and many more.QObala pomoraca, Vranjic, tel. (+385-21) 24 71 15, info@aquariumsplit.
com, www.aquariumsplit.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Tickets 50-75kn. Children under 4 free.

46 Split In Your Pocket

To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of
beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a
colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress.
QK-2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34
73 46, [email protected], www.hpms.hr. June - July 31st
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun by prior arrangement. August May 31st Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sun by prior arrangement.
Admission 10 - 20kn.
Ethnographic Museum Split (Etnografski muzej Split)
If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s
cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast,
then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was
founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional
Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years.
QJ-3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, [email protected], www.etnografski-muzej-split.
hr. June - September 15th Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. September 16th - May 31st Open 09:00
- 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Sun by prior arrangement.
Admission 10 - 15kn.
Ivan Meštrović Museums - Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac
Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of
telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences
ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek
sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual
style. The display includes an impressive selection of his
large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works
and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was
also famous for the huge works he produced for public
spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split
(see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović
emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South
Bend, Indiana in 1962. A five-minute walk further west
along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a
16th-century summer house bought by Meštrović in 1939
and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably
the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden
reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’
work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.QB-3, Šetalište
Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34 08 00, mim@
mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. May - September 30
Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and hoildays. October - April 30 Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00,
Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission
15kn Children, 30kn Adults, 50kn Family.
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Sightseeing
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& Cakes

Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih
arheoloških spomenika)
Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian
archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian
Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently,
sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and
sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to
the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give
you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece
collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items
spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+38521) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 05, [email protected],
www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita)
The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century
and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s
most respected families, built a small palace to serve as
their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the
City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced
back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and
monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has
grown in subsequent years to include various paintings
and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in
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Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that
help tell the historical story of Split.QJ-2, Papalićeva 1, tel.
(+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada-st@
st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net. April - October 31st Open
09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.
Split Gallery of Fine Arts (Galerija umjetnina Split)
Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most
absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by
an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview
of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes
in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel
Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić
and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s
temporary exhibitions blending local and international
artists, site-specific audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art & Wine workshops open for applications,
all add to the highly interesting and enriching experience.
QJ-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 12,
[email protected], www.galum.hr. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat and Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
June 15th - September 15th Open 10:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10 - 50kn.

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one day escape cruises
The perfect package for tourists who are craving to see
the best of the Adriatic Sea in one day! The highly recommended boat route encompasses Split - the Blue Cave - the
Green Cave - Budikovac - Palmižana - Hvar - Split. One boat
departs daily between May 10 until October 10 from the
Split waterfront, leaving at 08:30 am. On the way to the island of Biševo dolphins often swim alongside the boat and
if you happen to be lucky, have your camera ready! Once
on the island, guests can visit and swim in the Blue Cave or
Blue Grotto with its iridescent blue reflections, whilst Budikovac is a little (islet) near the island of Vis and it is there that
visitors can find a sandy cove for swimming. Near to this
is the island of Ravnik with its Green Cave, approximately
50 meters long with a 7 meter high entrance so that boats
can enter. And just when you thought that this was all a
dream, then comes Palmižana, a little village on the Pakleni
islands where there are various specific restaurants and
bars and here guests can use their free time for lunch and
a swim. This is followed by a visit to the sunniest Croatian
island of Hvar, upon returning to Split. The price is 115 Euros per person which includes: the crew, fuel, tickets to the
Blue Cave, water and soft drinks on board, snorkelling gear
(diving equipment), safety gear, and insurance. It should
be emphasised that this is a long (100 nautical miles) trip
and that the boat is large (13 meters) and equipped with
both indoor and outdoor areas for passengers, inclduing
toilet facilities which is very important as there is no toilet
anywhere else, except in Palmižana. The return to Split is
at around 19:00 - 19:30 pm. See the best that Croatia and
Dalmatia have to offer in this glorious day trip, sure to be
filled with picturesque memories. Info: Water Express
daily cruises, tel.(+385-) 099 209 30 64, [email protected], www.waterexpresstours.com

galleries
Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija
Emanuel Vidović)
Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifullyrestored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to
the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953).
Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia
providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good
cross-section of Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there
is a fascinating re-creation of the artist’s former studio including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of
wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A
Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen
on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the
groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ-2,
Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55, info@
galerija-vidovic.com, www.galerija-vidovic.com. June October 31st Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00
- 16:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.
48 Split In Your Pocket

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The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
splitske katedrale)
The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and
church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from
1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th
century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century.
QJ-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5.

church
Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery
(Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika)
Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint
Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it
acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened
at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved
baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by
Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as
the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00,
08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between
July and September there will be no 11 0’clock mass.QJ2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30.

www.inyourpocket.com
50 Split In Your Pocket

GRGUR NINSKI
In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called
together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of
the then current church system. The Great Assembly took
place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope
Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with
the only accepted language for Mass and official Church
business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of
debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the
middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side
of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as
Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the
cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero
and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see
the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by
another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north
gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for
good luck).QJ-2.

BOOK PANORAMIC FLIGHTS
The European Coastal Airlines offer the possibility of organizing a panoramic flight and charter flight on request.
Requests can be sent to [email protected]. However, every
regular European Coastal Air flight is panoramic as they fly
at 500 - 800 meters and wherever you travel you’ll enjoy
the view.
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Sightseeing
Nightlife
diocletian
From emperor to enigma

a –
m–
e –
w–

Bribirska 10, 21000 Split
+385 98 701 903
[email protected]
www.galerijajaksic.com

By Jonathan Bousfield
Few people are so central to the history of Split as the
third-century Roman Emperor Diocletian (245-311). And
yet it is surprising how little we know about the man. The
narratives routinely trotted out by tourist publications are
frequently based on a consensus of suppositions rather
than hard facts. With new interpretations emerging in the
wake of every archeological discovery, however, the sands
of historical record are constantly shifting.
Diocletian’s status as founder of the city is celebrated every year in the Days of Diocletian (this year falling on August
16-19), when locals dressed as Diocletian and his retinue
arrive by chariot to greet the crowds. Putting this threeday toga-party aside, however, there’s a surprising lack of a
commercialized Diocletian cult in Split. If you’re looking for
a Diocletian T-shirt, an imperial signet ring, or even a decent biography of Diocletian written in plain language and
with nice pictures, you’ll be going home empty-handed.
Diocletian is thought to have born to humble parents in
or near the city of Salona (next to present-day Solin just
inland from Split), rising through the ranks of the army
before being proclaimed Roman Emperor in 284. He reformed the Roman Empire by establishing the Tetrarchy
(basically ‘rule by four’ – a system of divided sovereignty in
which there were two emperors and two vice-emperors),
then abdicated in 305, returning to the land of his birth.
The retirement palace he built on the Adriatic shore became the founding structure of present-day Split, its
walled precincts re-used, adapted or plundered for their
stone by subsequent generations, creating the core of the
modern city.
We know a lot about Diocletian’s military victories and
governmental reforms because they are described in detail by near-contemporary sources. The personal biography of the man is a much mistier affair – we can’t say with
any certainty where he was born, why he retired, or precisely how big his palace settlement actually was. Wandering around the palace precinct today, Diocletian’s heritage
is ever present, but the man remains elusive.
The fact that the former palace area now forms the heart
of a living city means that it is not a traditional archeological site with everything labeled for the visitor, making it
difficult to extrapolate much about how Diocletian lived.
Things are compounded by the fact that none of Split’s
museums provide a detailed picture of Diocletian’s era,
and the visitor really has to tour the palace area, visit the
City Museum and then trek out to the Archeological Museum in an attempt to piece together a picture of what
third- and fourth-century Split was actually like.
It’s because the palace precinct remains a residential area
that it’s unlikely that archeologists will ever be able to examine it in its entirety. The best opportunity to discover
more about Diocletian’s life and times came in the 1950s
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with the clearing of the palace basement, a substructure in
the southern part of the palace precinct which is thought
to mirror exactly the floor plan of the imperial apartments
that once stood above. The reason why a basement exists
beneath this part of the palace is believed to be because
the ground beneath Diocletian’s planned living quarters
dropped sharply towards the sea, so a set of foundations
had to be built in order to raise the level of the ground
floor.
The basement has since served as a film set for several
scenes of the HBO series Game of Thrones; what it was
used for during Diocletian’s time remains the subject of
much conjecture. It was almost certainly used as a living
space by the squatters who too over the palace following
the fall of Salona in the seventh century. Once they moved
up to ground level and started building their own dwellings from the palace masonry, the basement became
a huge waste bin and shit hole, fed by the primitive toilets and inadequate drainage channels of the tenements
above. When the petrified shit of medieval Split was finally
cleared out of the basement by post-war archeologists,
several tantalizing leftovers of the Diocletian era were
revealed. A fragment of a porphyry sarcophagus, possibly
Diocletian’s own, is nowadays on display in the lapidarium
of the Archeology Museum. The City Museum displays a
large menza or marble food table from which the emperor
himself may once have eaten.
The popular view that Diocletian was a true-born Dalmatian who came home is plausible, if not exactly watertight.
Diocletian’s original name, Diokles, is Greek, so he could
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have been born anywhere with a bit of Hellenic heritage:
multiracial, multilingual Salona certainly can’t be ruled
out. Contemporary writer Lactantius, who was a civil servant under Diocletian, tells us that the emperor, upon his
abdication, left the imperial capital Nicomedia like an old
soldier ‘dismissed into his own country’, suggesting that
the old man was going back to where he was born.
However there were many other reasons why Diocletian
may have chosen to build his palace here – access to sulphurous springs, proximity to a big city like Salona, and
most crucially, good maritime links and ease of seaborne
escape. Construction on the palace began at least ten
years before Diocletian’s abdication, which may indicate
that it was initially envisaged as the seat of a ruling emperor rather than the retirement villa of a homesick pensioner.
Diocletian didn’t just reform the administration of the empire, he also reformed the ceremonial that surrounded the
imperial court. The Emperor was henceforth considered
a god from the moment of is accession, and people had
to abase themselves when introduced into his presence.
The desire to build fabulous palaces was an outgrowth of
this new culture of adoration, and the palace at Split was
by no means the only one that Diocletian built. Diocletian
wanted his imperial capital at Nicomedia to rival Rome,
and large parts of the city were demolished to make way
for his official residence. He also built a fortified palace in
Antioch which, although no longer in existence, is thought
to have resembled the one in Split.
It’s also an open question whether Diocletian’s palace really was just a palace, or part of an already existing settlement. The name Split derives from the Latin Spalatum,
which in turn is a corruption of the Greek Aspalathos
(which literally means hairy broom, the wiry, yellowflowered plant that covers this stretch of coast), and it is
assumed that the Greeks got here before Diocletian did.
Stone fragments of a well found at the entrance to the palace basement predate Diocletian’s time by several centuries. The recent renovation of the Split waterfront revealed
wooden beams confirmed the existence of a port here in
the pre-Roman era. It’s entirely possible that Diocletian demolished parts of an existing settlement in order to make
room for his palace, much in the same manner as Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceausescu, who cleared large parts
of downtown Bucharest to make way for the brand-new
Centru Civic in the 1980s.
Although we know a great deal about the shape and
function of Diocletian’s palace (imperial apartments in
the south, accommodation for guards and servants in the
north), the question of what lay immediately outside the
palace walls remains the subject of much fervent debate.
Recent excavations have suggested the existence of a hippodrome just outside the palace, and an amphitheatre (or
at the very least a theatre) just inland. This might mean
that the palace was not just an imperial retirement home
but a much bigger settlement comprising entertainment
facilities: ‘some kind of Roman-era Las Vegas’, the Croatian
magazine Globus suggested in April 2014. The idea that
Diocletian’s Split was a resort seems to be a backward
52 Split In Your Pocket

projection of our present-day preoccupation with the
travel and entertainment industries. However it’s certainly
plausible that Diocletian’s settlement was more than just
a palace and served a wider purpose. It is possible that the
retired empire was still an important player on the imperial
chessboard, making his palace a political centre of some
importance rather than a residence designed to keep the
old man out of
the way.
Ultimately there’s a huge amount of ambiguity about Diocletian’s role as local hero or imperial villain. Sure, he built
a palace here, but he also presided over the last, greatest
persecution of Christians in the annals of imperial Rome.
And in a solidly Catholic city like Split, Diocletian’s heritage
can never be regarded as something entirely positive. The
patron saint of the city is after all St Domnius (Sveti Dujam),
the third-century bishop of Salona who was decapitated
in the city’s amphitheatre on Diocletian’s orders in 304 AD.
St Domnius’s feast day is marked on May 7th with church
processions and a city-wide fair – an annual celebration
of the fact that Diocletian did not end up on the winning
side.
In a very real sense central Split is both a monument to
Diocletian and also a solemn shrine to those he had executed. The early-medieval Christian civilization that took
over Diocletian’s palace engaged in a deliberate attempt
to demonstrate its mastery over the emperor’s pagan
heritage. Diocletian’s mausoleum became the Cathedral
of St Domnius. One of the cathedral’s most famous altars
(carved by Croatian Renaissance master Juraj Dalmatinac)
altar honours St Anastasius the Fuller, a Salona Christian
who was thrown into the sea with a stone around his neck.
The crypt of the cathedral, formerly a shrine to Mithras,
was rededicated to another of Diocletian’s martyrs, St
Lucy. Diocletian’s sarcophagus, which once rested in the
mausoleum, is assumed to have been thrown into the
growing shit pile in the palace basement.
Diocletian shares the fate of many Roman emperors in the
sense that there are so few reliable likenesses of him that
we can’t really be sure what he looked like. Busts of Diocletian may well have been destroyed because of his status as
a persecutor of Christians, and the only surviving likeness
we can be sure of is a head of Diocletian belonging to the
Istanbul Archeological Museum. It shows a bearded, rugged, resolute man, and rather like the images of emperors
that appear on coins, it may well be a stock representation
of imperial power rather than genuine portrait. Ultimately
the most iconically recognizable character to emerge
from Diocletian’s palace is not the emperor himself but
the granite sphinx that crouches on the balustrade beside
the cathedral. One of several that Diocletian had imported
from Egypt, this is the only sphinx that survives in its complete form. Early Christians beheaded all of the others, as if
the best way to get at the dead emperor was by decapitating his stone pets. For an emperor like Diocletian, a historical riddle that remains unanswered, maybe the sphinx is
the most appropriate symbol of all.
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MANOJLOVAČKI SLAP

SKRADINSKI BUK

MILJACKA SLAP

VISOVAC

MANASTIR KRKA

BURNUM

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[email protected] • www.np-krka.hr

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Exits to:
Omiš
Makarska

58 Split In Your Pocket

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KAMIK

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Trogir

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Komiža

Marina

pl

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ka

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V

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Gradac

Vrgorac

MEĐUG

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A N S
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a

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Airlines

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Dalmatian
Shopping
Zagora
When people think of Dalmatia they usually think of the
Adriatic coast, complete with its beaches, islands and swaying palm trees. What is often forgotten is that Dalmatia also
has a huge tract of inland territory, much of which is just as
exotic and just as interesting as the seaside but much less
visited, making it more than ripe for discovery.
Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian
Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind the hills', a reference to the mountains that run along
a good deal of the coast. Indeed much of the Zagora is a
mountainous, arid place, known for the scrub-covered hills
and rocky wastes known as kamenjar (‘stone fields') - but
also for its neat towns of stone houses and intensively cultivated islands of agriculture.
The Zagora may be a blind spot as far as tourists are
concerned but it has never been so to the Dalmatians
themselves, who have a high regard for its resourceful,
hard-working inhabitants. The inhabitants of the Zagora
are frequently termed vlaji by their coastal neighbours (a
mocking reference to the Vlachs, the semi-nomadic sheeprearers who roamed the Balkan interior in centuries past),
although the term conveys a positive sense of hardy selfreliance as well as country-bumpkin simplicity. The populations of the coastal towns have always been fed by immigration from the interior, and settlements such as Zadar,
Šibenik and Split have always faced two ways, serving as
seafaring Mediterranean cities as well as ‘capitals' of their
extensive hinterland.
Much of the Zagora's haunting beauty comes from its
extensive areas of arid, maquis-covered plateau. However
it's also an area of much geological drama, with canyons
and waterfalls around the Krka National Park and the Cetina Gorge, deep mysterious lakes at Imotski, and tortured
limestone features almost everywhere. Roman remains at
Burnum, and medieval fortress at Drniš, Knin and Sinj, provide a sense of historical depth.
The gastronomy of the Zagora is also distinctive, placing
more emphasis on sheep, cattle and freshwater fish than
the coastal parts of Dalmatia. The practice of roasting
meats in a lidded metal vessel covered in glowing embers
is a Zagora speciality, and is found almost everywhere
inland. You also come across numerous regional specialities: freshwater fish inland from Omiš, slow-cooked veal
risottos around Skradin, delicious home-cured pršut ham
from Drniš, and frogs' legs from Trilj. As far as local drink
is concerned, Bibich, with vineyards in the hills above Skradin, produces boutique wines that are highly soughtafter. There's also a growing wine industry around Imotski,
whose blended reds and indigenous Kujundžuša whites
are increasingly highly rated - indeed Imotski winemaker
Grabovac has opened a wine bar in the coastal resort of
Makarska to promote the local tipple.
What follows is our list of ten places you should visit in order to get an authentic flavour of the Dalmatian Zagora.

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Ten must-visit places
The Cetina Gorge
Coastal Omiš is the place to take boat trips into the lower
reaches of the Cetina Gorge, where riverside restaurants
serve trout and other local delicacies. Travel agents in
Omiš also organize rafting trips on the higher, white-water
sections of the Cetina. If you have a car, head for the inland
town of Zadvarje, where a lookout point above the upper parts of the gorge offers dramatic views of waterfalls.
Qwww.tz-omis.hr.
Drniš
A pleasant market town midway between Šibenik and
Knin, Drniš is famous for its crag-hugging medieval fortress, and the nearby village of Otavice, site of the Chapel
of the Holy Redeemer built by sculptor Ivan Meštrović to
serve as his family burial chapel.Qwww.tz-drnis.hr.
Imotski
If there is one place in the Zagora you absolutely must visit
then it’s Imotski, an old Venetian town on the Hercegovinian border that is renowned for the two natural wonders
on the edge of town, the Blue Lake (Modro jezero) and the
Red Lake (Crveno jezero). Both of them are dramatically
deep depressions formed by the collapse of limestone
caves, and filled with water - the level of which rises and
falls depending on seepage and seasonal conditions. Extraordinarily beautiful in real life, but difficult to convey in
two dimensions, the Imotski lakes are really something
you have to go and see yourself.Qwww.tz-imotski.hr.
Knin
A strategic railway-junction town lying in a bowl between
mountains, Knin is famous for the huge fortress, built in
the time of Croatian King Zvonimir, that hovers above
town from its suitably dramatic rock. With much of its
walls intact, it’s an extensive site, and comes with fantastic views of the surrounding Zagora landscape.Qwww.
tz-knin.hr.
Krka National Park
With wooden walkways leading past lakes and waterfalls,
and boat trips to monastic islands and haunting canyons,
Krka National Park is quite simply breathtaking, and can
easily fill well over a day of holiday time - especially if you
have your own transport, in which case you can visit the
Roman ruins of Burnum and the wild, little-visited, northeastern reaches of the park.Qwww.npkrka.hr.
Sinj
A handsome old town lying half an hour’s drive inland
from Split, Sinj is home to a famously alluring, miracleworking icon of the Virgin that hangs to the left of the
main altar in the main parish church. There’s also an old
fortress that’s well worth visiting on the hill above. On the
first Sunday of every August crowds from all over Dalmatia
descend on Sinj to witness the Alka, an age-old tournament in which horsemen gallop downhill with lances in
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their hands, hoping to spear a ring that hangs above the
end of the course. The riders wear traditional costume,
and the whole occasion is one of festive pageant.Qwww.
visitsinj.com.
Skradin
Located on the shores of Prokljansko Lake, just inland from
Šibenik, Skradin is both the gateway to the Krka National
Park and an attraction in itself - a typical Mediterranean
town made up of stone-paved streets and arched alleyways. There’s a lakeside marine full of yachts, and a
handful of superb restaurants serving traditional Skradin
cuisine.Qwww.skradin.hr.
Vrgorac
Birthplace of the famously bohemian Croatian poet Tin
Ujević (1891-1955), Vrgorac is another small town that
sits beneath a medieval fort. The place is famous for the
number of surviving towers built by wealthy families and
military captains (Vrgorac was on the border between the
Venetian and Ottoman Empires) to serve as both living
space and fortified refuge. The nearby village of Kokorići,
full of traditional stone houses and dry stone walls, is being developed as an ethno-village complete with accommodation, traditional inn and a display of handicrafts.
Qwww.tzvrgorac.hr.
Vrlika
Situated on the Vrličko polje plateau 66km inland from
Split, Vrlika is a typical Zagora market town sprawling
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around the base of a fortress-capped hill. Vrlika is famous
above all for the Vrličko kolo, an energetic circle dance
that’s considered to be one of Croatia’s natural cultural
treasures and features on the repertoire of many a folklore
group. The dance also features in the Gotovac/Begović
opera “Ero the Joker”, part of which is set beside the Vrlika Fountain or Vrlička Česma, located in the town park.
The pre-Romanesque Church of Holy Salvation, one of
the most iconic early-medieval buildings in the whole
country, is in the village of Cetina, 8km northwest of Vrlika.
Qwww.visitvrlika.com.
Zagvozd
Nestling on the sleepy side of Mount Biokovo, the massif
that rises just inland from the Makarska Riviera, Zagvozd
is home to one of the oddest but longest-running of
Croatia’s cultural festivals, Actors in Zagvozd (Glumci u
Zagvozdu; July-August; www.glumciuzagvozdu.hr), when
the cream of the country’s thespian talent converges on
this small country town to perform plays and give recitals,
often in the open-air, and frequently to huge audiences.
Drinking and feasting usually follows; Zagvozd is well
worth a visit during the festival whether you’re following
the plot or not.

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North of Split
Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me' of Split, it's a fine
pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medieval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. Our
tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has grand views for
taking photos. For another step back in time the town of
Solin, which is an ancient Roman settlement and happens
to be the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian still has its well
preserved amphitheatre, town gate, fortress and other historical buildings.

Marina
Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is located in the center of Dalmatia. It's situated exactly halfway
in between the UNESCO protected cities Split and Šibenik
and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is surrounded by picturesque fortifications, such as the quadrangular tower the
bishops of Trogir built in the 15th century, Drid hill containing remnants of old stone houses scattered throughout the
former Dridske county, as well as the St. Philip and Jacob's
Cave, famous for having been visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The Marina Riviera consists of three
small picturesque Dalmatian towns: Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook the crystal clear blue waters and sandy
beaches. In the surrounding Zagora region, original Dalmatian traditions and customs, folklore costumes and local
gastronomy are still preserved. This area is rich in ancient
olive groves and is widely known for producing olive oil.

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Marina Tourist Board
QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15, [email protected], www.tz-marina.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
08:00 - 12:00.

Trogir
Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away,
Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which
have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir's old
town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and
Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with
modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating
amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.
Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the
island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until
well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal
Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming
under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.
While the former rulers of the region were interested in
Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are
interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the
city's old town. Of particular importance are the churches
and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke's pal-

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ace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most
impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the
Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240.
The cultural and historical significance of the town and
its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the
United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage
sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir's history.
While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and
fishing, this new era of the city's development will almost
definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia's coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from
around the world.

both places are distributed along a circular bay. The numerous bays and beaches have made this area one of the most
popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with beautiful
spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting activities are
offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving, water skiing,
paragliding, as well as fitness centers and tennis courts.
After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine, there are
numerous restaurants and bars along the coast, with great
music, for a fun night out.

Trogir Tourist Board
QTrg Ivana Pavla II / 1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, [email protected], www.tztrogir.hr. Open 08:0020:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Kaštela

Čiovo
Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends
eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns
and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slatina, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is connected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center
of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is
made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name
of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since
64 Split In Your Pocket

Okrug Tourist Board
QBana Josipa Jelačića 15, Okrug Gornji, tel. (+385-21)
88 73 11, [email protected], www.tzo-okrug.hr.
Open 07:00 - 20:00.

Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as ‘Kaštela'
(Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along
route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing
to (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Novi,
Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Štafilć). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would take the better part of a
day to check out their interesting architectural features. Of
particular interest is the newly built Marina Kaštela which
accommodates private and charter boats. In Kaštel Sućurac,
sits the oldest defensive fortress which was built in 1392
by the Archbishop of Split A. Gvaldo. In Kaštel Gomilica in
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front of the church, there is an oak tree over 700 years old,
under which, according to the legend, Croatian king Zvonimir rested. And that's just the beginning. All are accessible
by car.
KAŠTELA Tourist INFORMATION CENTRE
QObala kralja Zvonimira 14, tel, Kaštel Stari (+385-21)
23 20 44, [email protected], www.kastela-info.
hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00,
Sun 08:00 - 12:00

Solin
Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres
outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and
the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its
primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace
of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now,
erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days
there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity's early
history. According to the Bible, Paul's student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with
Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have
attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the
town's role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the
title of "Croatia's Pompeii". Until recently, Solin depended
on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town.

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Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and
Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost.
In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient
ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to
this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The
River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with
loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as
well, especially if you're not thrilled by the idea of exploring
ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip
from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history
ready to be explored there, just might be one of the bestkept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the
beaten path.
Solin Tourist Board
QKralja Zvonimira 69, tel. (+385-21) 21 00 48, [email protected], www.solin-info.com. Open 07:30 - 15:30.
Closed Sat, Sun.

Klis
One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on
sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view
of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with
the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor
museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It
will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and

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soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café
right below the fortress.
Klis has had a long and colorful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century.
In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress.The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but
only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted
the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see
why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the
fortress could control passage through the rather narrow
mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.
Klis Tourist Board
QMegdan 57, tel. (+385-21) 24 05 78, [email protected], www.tzo-klis.htnet.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

South of Split
Ahoy matey! Welcome to the city of pirates in Omiš, yet
another bastion of ancient pride. Choose from adrenaline
to serenity. Omiš is home to the river Cetina which hosts
action packed adventure thrills with zip lines, canoeing,
white water rafting, abseiling, cliff jumping, waterfalls and
more. Pulsating! Then strolling through the old town one
embarks on age old churches, squares and the odd seagull
ducking for shade. Beaches close by are clean as a whistle
and face some of the islands.

Podstrana
Podstrana is a small tourist town located 8km from Split. It’s
well-known for its beautiful beaches, which stretch along
a 9km coastline making it an attractive location to visit.
Along with its sandy and pebble beaches, olive orchards,
vineyards and numerous peach trees create a beautiful
Mediterranean town. The first settlements in this area can
be traced back to the ancient Roman settlement Pituntium. The turbulent history of this area, of the Greek, Roman and Turkish invasions, can be seen from the numerous
archaeological excavations and the remains of buildings
and monuments from the different time periods. Historical
monuments, such as the Church of St. George, the Castle
of Cindro and the Statue of St. Anthony of Padua from the
18th century, are still standing today in between the various hotels and apartments.
Podstrana Tourist Board
QDavora Jurasa 2, tel. (+385-21) 33 38 44, info@
tz-podstrana.hr, www.tz-podstrana.hr. Open 07:30 21:00, Sun 07:30 - 13:00.

Omiš
Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous
course through the countryside until it finally empties into
the Adriatic. The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a
66 Split In Your Pocket

quiet and picturesque town that is the center of what has
become known as "the Omiš Riviera." However, things were
not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because
of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš,
that patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called
"arrows", so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river. While it's true that
today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters
of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fast-traveling pirate
ships, there's still plenty of adventure to be had in Omiš.
The mountainous areas around the town make for great
hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue and
the history of the town can be explored in the remnants of
fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used
to defend the town against attacks from Turkish invaders),
churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th
century. In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are
located within the old city walls and include the church of
St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost and the church
of St. Rocco. The remaining churches are located outside
of the old city walls and include the church of St. Peter, the
church of St. Luke and the church of St. Mary, located at the
old Omiš cemetery. The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at
the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the church of
St. John in Borak. The Fortress (tvrđava) is located on top of
Dinara mountain and offers an enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon of the Cetina River to the islands
of Brač, Hvar and Šolta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica.
And when you're finished exploring the natural beauty of
Omiš and it's history, the town's central location makes it a
perfect starting point for the rest of your Dalmatian coast
adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorizing the
seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.
Omiš Tourist Board
QTrg kneza Miroslava b.b., tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50,
[email protected], www.tz-omis.hr. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

Islands
Island hopping has been a craze of late with tour agencies
offering daily to weekly trips. Though they may all look the
same, each island is characterised by a rich cultural and historical heritage, tradition and cuisine. Olive groves, wineries, church towers and stone piers are part of the charm
they hold. Each has their own dialect and story to tell. The
beaches are second to none with Brač, Hvar and Šolta just
some of the pristine islands to visit, and with a different
story to tell.

Šolta
Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to
have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis
courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from
Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special
places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life
has been largely maintained to the present day. This means
that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys
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are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in
the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace
of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia,
which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal
environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island,
not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish.
The island's fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning
and returning with the day's catch, which is then prepared
for the evening's meal and accompanied by some excellent
homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you
to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does
not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little
adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as
well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play
perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the
olive groves and vineyards that supply the island's other
principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmos-

BOOK DAILY TRIP
The European Coastal Airline offers daily trips. All you
need to do is send your request to [email protected].
Since they have more or less a couple of flights a day
to all their locations, passengers can go by a regularly
scheduled line to Jelsa, stay all day on the island of
Hvar, and return the same evening.
68 Split In Your Pocket

phere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day
trip or as a short stay.
Tourist Information Centre
QObala sv. Tereze 3, Rogač, Šolta, tel. (+385-21) 65 46 57,
[email protected], www.visitsolta.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Brač
Brač, the Croatian Adriatic's third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of
any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/
passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the
southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which
is on the northwest.
If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia's most
famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It's a point jutting
out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of
the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It's also a
popular spot for windsurfing. If you'd prefer a less frenetic
bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina
Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač's
north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains
from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above
the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach,
you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located
on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač.
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Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia
are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and
mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip's Museum of Brač contains many ancient
artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules.
Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač,
you could extend your activities from what's listed above
to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its
museum has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and
Child dating from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage
of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon
about half way between the sea and the summit of Brač's
highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place
to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that
begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or
down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the
flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on
that track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova
Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don't have an SUV
you run the risk of ruining your vehicle's suspension. Both
trails are well marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow
several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of
water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca's
ascetic architecture and splendid isolation.
Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of
Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island,
2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive
there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off
on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća.
If you are going to be on Brač for a week there's much more
you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend
several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should
prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća,
Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska,
Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north side; and Selca
and Sumartin on the east. Olive tree orchards and wild
olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are
many small-scale olive oil producers. Brač white marble has
been exported all over the world. It's claimed that Brač
marble was even used in the construction of the American
White House. And of course, it was used in the building of
many local houses. There are two caves worth exploring on
Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They're located
between Supetar and Donji Humac.
Supetar Tourist Information Centre
QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, [email protected],
www.supetar.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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vranjača cave
The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The
first, the existence of which was already known in the
19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903 by Stipe Punda, who was the owner
of this plot of land. This part consists of a system of
nine smaller chambers in colours ranging from green
through blue, some of which shimmer due to the
presence of crystals. The cave is about 360m long and
is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round.
Vranjača is suitable for visits by tourists, with steps,
rope handrails, walkways and lighting. It is supervised
and has a car park. The cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature lovers from all over.
The cave, Vranjača, is located in the foothills of the
central part of Mosor, on the northern side. If you are
coming from Split then take the paved road through
Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the hamlet
Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m path to
the entrance of the cave.
The cave is open from 15th March to 1st November,
09:00 - 20:00 (June, July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May,
September), 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior
arrangement (November - March). Guided tours, which
last about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost
40kn for adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385)
098 74 90 00 for more information.

Hvar
You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari
Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and
Hvar city. If you're a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar
if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This
ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you're coming
from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a
line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city.
See getting around section.
Things to see and do:
Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands
in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and
on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of
small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are
only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.
Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar
city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.
The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting
name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and
small towns. Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed
travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and
Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offer70 Split In Your Pocket

ing a splendid view of below. The Benedictine monastery
in Hvar is well known for it's craftsmanship of unique lace
made from agave fibres. The scent within Hvar is difficult to
miss with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage
which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The
mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the
island. Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today's ferry port. Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar
where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two
highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on
the east, Hum. Only 7km east of Jelsa, you'll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat
fur and stone and they're completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva
cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic
era, 5000-4000 B.C. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is
hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet
in the centre. They call Vrboska ''Little Venice'' due to it's
small bridges with which it is connected. On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna
Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the
beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja.
To head to the southern side of the island you must pass
through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside
a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac.
You'll come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro,
Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. When you pass the tunnel you'll get to the southern
side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards
grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali' (Small Blue) grape,
located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern side
of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić
beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and
Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje
and Vela Lučica beaches. On island's eastern side lies the
small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of
the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line). Hvar and
the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas,
the history of which stretches back far into the past. Hvar
possesses a number of local grape varieties ‘Bogdanuša'
and ‘Drenkuša' which can not be found anywhere else. The
southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali' due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its
high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković,
whose cellars provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac' (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you
can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique
2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović
and P.Z Svirče estates.
Stari Grad Tourist Board
QObala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-21) 76 57 63,
[email protected], www.stari-grad-faros.hr.
Open 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00,
17:00 - 21:00.
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Split Surroundings
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Vis
The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden
zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has
largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded
by seas of indescribable beauty. The most attractive is the
archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around
the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti
Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac. The only way
to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go
via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and
15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the
kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased
at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island,
Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main
bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the
exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only
valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off
the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis
tied in with the ferry departures for Split. Things to see
and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it
with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the
gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge
around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva
(the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from
the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav.
Also, don't miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito's cave above Podšpilja or the
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ruins of the ancient city. Vis is one of the most valuable
Hellenistic sites in Croatia. One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here
in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa
can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the
necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from
Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located
in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija' (Our Lady's Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and
more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis. The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the
churches of St Cyprian (Sv.Ciprijana) and the Holy Spirit, the
Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the
sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja. Komiža is
a fishing village located at the southern end of the island
which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also
houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža,
the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village
offering a spectacular view of below. The interior areas of
Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid
(complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute
walk from Komiža. Without the diving and swimming in
the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the
Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis
wouldn't be the marvel that it is.
Vis Tourist Board
QŠetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, tzg-visa@
st.t-com.hr, www.tz-vis.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 21:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.
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Makarska Tourist Board Archives

Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like
leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great
long stretch of pure hedonism. If you take the scenic route,
the coast road hugs white pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting sun-worshippers like bees
to sugar water. You'll pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a delightful old town where the
River Cetina plunges through a spectacular canyon into
the sea. Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some
old, some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at
Brela a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the
Makarska Riviera, and this is where you'll find some of the
most photographed, most famous and most prized beach
resorts on the Adriatic. This coastline basks on average in
2750 hours of sunshine per year. The sea is incredibly clear
and inviting, with an average year-round temperature of
20˚C reaching summertime peaks of 23-27˚C. Apart from
the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood, chard,
tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you can enjoy the
luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other times sweets
and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus fruits and cherries. And of course, there's plenty of local wine. In recent
times the realisation has dawned as to what was lost when
those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a treasure
trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular mountain settings, they have great architectural and ethnological
value. The village way of life was synonymous with music
and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention agriculture
and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns) are now
open offering great hospitality and authentic Dalmatian
cuisine.
Baška Voda
Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska
Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants,
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in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town.
With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in
hotels, campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is
popular with young people and families with children.
There's plenty to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars
that transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertainment laid on. Baška Voda's ancient core, known as
Gradina, lies on a mound just uphill from the waterfront.
The names on ancient gravestones testify that the site has
been inhabited since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC.
The Greeks traded here and the Romans settled here - the
latter named the town Aronia.
Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this
coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the
bastions still standing today. This is the site of important
archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery
and glass, which you can see in the town museum. There's
also a museum of shells - the Malacological Museum.
The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by
fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje,
where today there's a large camp site. However, there are
still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine
direct from the barrel - just bring your own container!
When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aronia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside
villages of Bast and Topići - themselves largely depopulated since the 1962 quake. Nowadays, the architectural
and cultural value of these villages has been recognised:
Topići has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heritage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to
stay. Both will charm you with their folk architecture and
delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some
authentic Dalmatian cuisine in old-fashioned taverns.
They're also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak
(1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path
that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna,
Bratuš and Krvavica.
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Makarska Riviera
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Baška Voda Tourist Board, Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel.
(+385-21) 62 07 13, [email protected], www.baskavoda.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. June, July, August Open
08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00
- 13:00. Closed Sun.
Brela
A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly
close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling
effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump
in and enjoy them is irresistible. This rock is the famous
motif of the resort of Brela. It stands for the reasons why
we love this coast: clean, deep waters great for swimming;
azure seas and skies, the restorative scent and welcome
shade of the pine forests. The beaches here have won
numerous international accolades. Thanks to 6km of
wonderful white pebble beaches with fabulous views,
the ancient hillside settlement of Brela developed into a
handsome resort. Beautiful beachside homes line the long
promenade, and a handful of good hotels are hidden in
thick pine woods. Steep paths head up the mountainside
towards the older parts of the settlement. A local society
is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the culture of
old Brela: it's well worth taking a trip up the mountain to
Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre where
you can find out about the old churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted around.
Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring
the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic
species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges.
You'll find maps and information at the information centre
that's also located there.
Brela Tourist Board, Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel.
(+385-21) 61 84 55, [email protected], www.brela.hr.
Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Drvenik
29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with
the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is
dotted with coves and sandy bays. It's peaceful, friendly
and the scenery is gorgeous - it's a great place for a peaceful holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you
can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island - it's best if you have
some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by
a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St George in
the old hillside settlement.
Drvenik Tourist Board, Donja Vala 241, tel. (+385-21)
62 82 00, [email protected], www.drvenik.hr. Open
08:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Gradac
When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we've
come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again,
several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well
as Gradac itself there's Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and
Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back resort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to
choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies
in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric
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mounds you'll find a 16th century defensive tower in Čista
and the old chapel of St Pascal on Plana hill. A point of
significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monastery of St Mary. The monk and poet Andrija Kačić Miošić
lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very
popular book of folk verse which both served as a historical document and helped develop the modern Croatian
language.
Gradac Tourist Board, [email protected], www.gradac.hr. Gradac Tourist Information Centre Trg Soline
11, tel. (+385-21) 69 73 75. Open 08:00 - 22:30.
Makarska
As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Makarska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Makarska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around
a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants. Sailors
and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll
lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the formidable Biokovo mountains above.
There's a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sunshine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the
houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the
coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by
refreshing breezes, it's not hard to see why tourists started
to arrive at the turn of the 20th century.
The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the
period following the Second World War. Sometimes large
but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine forests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and
the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a
healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their
holidays. Today in high summer the beaches and hotels
are packed to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars and clubs. But escapists can still find tranquil
corners and experiences off the mass tourist radar.
There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun.
The city's roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when
it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the
Cretans. The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave
their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The
Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD.
The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the
Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccurum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality,
which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed
long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French
and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the
territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix
of historic buildings you see today.
Perhaps the most important historic building in the town
is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a
Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some
spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The
Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The
town's main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St Mark,
an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront
you'll find the town museum and the Church of St Philip.
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Arriving on the
Makarska Riviera
The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away.
The airport is served by domestic and international
scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer.
For timetable information, see www.split-airport.hr.
To get to Makarska you'll need to take a bus or hire a
car. For more information about travelling to and from
Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split.
By car: if you take the A1 motorway , take the
Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in one
direction for a car from Split, 171kn from Zagreb. From
Split, there is also the Adriatic highway. Take a detour
inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš if you're travelling
at the weekend during peak season.
By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Split
and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mostar
(Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and
Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor.
com.
By train: Makarska is not served by the railway network. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then
transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: www.
hznet.hr.
By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on
Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj
on Hvar island. For information see www.jadrolinija.
hr.
Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports
From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you
need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi transfers to
and from the ferry ports, check out www.connectotaxi.com.
Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk
On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry
tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, tel.
(+385-21) 67 95 15, www.jadrolinija.hr. They open
one hour (two in July, August) before the ferry departures.
Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor Makarska)
There is one desk for information and tickets, open
daily 05:00 - 22:30. The manned left luggage facility
(no lockers) has the same working hours as the ticket
office, price 5kn per day per item.QAnte Starčevića
30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33.

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The church of St Peter resides on a green headland in a delightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about
the sights.
What's more, it's well worth exploring the mountainside
villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and
Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for
centuries from invaders approaching from the sea. You'll
come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used
by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at
Kotišina. It was founded by Father Jure Radić, the Franciscan monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum

Brela Tourist Board Archives

of Shells. Father Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo
which is just one option for a spectacular hike. Although
largely depopulated following a strong earthquake in
1962, in recent years efforts have been made to renovate
and revive the original customs and culture of the upland
villages. With amazing views over the coast and islands,
these are wonderful places to enjoy some peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences.
Makarska Tourist Board, Obala kralja Tomislava 16,
tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, [email protected],
www.makarska-info.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.
Podgora
Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic
peaks, it's not hard to see how Podgora got its name,
which means under the mountain. With a long history
as a fishing village and a tourist tradition dating back to
the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place of 1,500 souls which
swells more than fivefold in the summer - it's second only
to Makarska when it comes to tourist numbers. It's not
hard to see why: the combination of white shingle, green
pine and rocky grey mountain are a tourist's holy trinity.
This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly performances from mid-June to the end of August: classical
music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock and folk
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Makarska Riviera
Hotels
dance performances bring drama and culture to warm
evenings. As elsewhere, Podgora's inhabitants for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection and sustenance.
The attractive old inland settlement of Gornja Podgora is
worth looking round and serves as an entrance point to
the Biokovo Nature Park.
Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the following places also fall within the Podgora district:
Drašnice - a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300
souls here. There's a choice of pebbly coves, and with a
little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the
coves there's a cave named Medvidina where a local fisherman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal - a
critically endangered species.
Igrane - barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant
little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely
long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the
Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between the
Venetians and the Turks. There's a picturesque waterfront
and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive and kicking.
Živogošće - Now we're 20 km away from Split, heading
south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five tiny
hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava. Newer
homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the water; the
older settlements are on the upper side of the coast road.
Podgora Tourist Board, Andrije Kačića Miošića 2, tel.
(+385-21) 67 89 42, [email protected], www.
tz-podgora.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
Tučepi
A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime
enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera - a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling
easy access into the dazzling blue water.
Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera - the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after
the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of
invasion. You'll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers
and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman
armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone
buildings. In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy
locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The
best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is
today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911
became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers' Collective,
founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father
Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him
and the association that Tučepi's olive oil is rumoured to
be the best on this stretch of coast. Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century.
Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta
rooftops, there's a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A
summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St Anthony's day (Tučepi's patron saint), while the ka Kultura
festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići
and Podstup. Tučepi Tourist Board, Donji ratac bb, tel.
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(+385-21) 62 31 00, [email protected], www.tucepi.com. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.
June, September Open 08:00 - 21:00.

What to see
Museums
Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca)
A private museum in a traditional family home in Gradac,
a village in the far south of the Makarska Riviera. The idea
of setting up a museum has been alive for generations in
the Andrijašević family, and collecting and displaying the
material has been a labour of love, aided by donations of
items from helpful neighbours. Mainly consisting of everyday objects testifying to the way of life in the 19th and
20th centuries, there are five collections: fishing, cooking,
carpentry, sailing and music. There are also a fragments
from a Roman villa rustica. There's a lovely collection of
folk costumes, and everything is displayed in authentic
surroundings.QUz Kuk 6, Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75
61, [email protected], www.museum-gradac.
com. June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission 10kn.
Makarska Town Museum (Gradski muzej
Makarska)
Makarska's town museum is a great place to find out about
the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and summertime hedonism. It covers the history of the region
from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth
of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the
customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli
Palace, is a historic treasure in itself.QObala kralja Tomislava 17/1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, [email protected], www.mdc.hr/makarska/
index.htm. Open 09:00 -13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed
Sun. Admission 10kn.

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brate fossils. There's also a collection on the flora of the
Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection
of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the
Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world.
So, whether you're a budding biologist or a curious passerby, there's sure to be something that will take your breath
away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 12
56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.
The Museum of Fish, Crustaceans and
Molluscs (Muzej riba, rakova i školjki)
A little different in scope to the Malacological Museum,
this institution collects only local specimens and collects
fish and crustaceans (e.g. crabs, lobsters and prawns) as
well as molluscs. The collection includes some 200 specimens including some incredibly rare and interesting beasties.QUlica fra Filipa Grabovca bb (Listun), Makarska,
tel. (+385-) 091 596 88 98. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 22:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.
Makarska Adriatic Photo Service Archives

The Archaeological Museum Collection
(Arheološka muzejska zbirka)
Traces of human habitation on the Makarska Riviera coast
date back to the Neolithic age. This museum covers the
period from these prehistoric beginnings up to the 7th
century AD. The nations that settled and passed through
here during that time include the Illyrians, the Greeks, the
Romans and the Slavs. This makes for an interesting mix of
artefacts in this pleasant little museum, with some highly
attractive pieces on display.QBlato 12, Baška Voda, tel.
(+385-21) 62 06 95, [email protected]. Open 10:00 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Admission 8kn.
The Malacological Museum
(Malakološki muzej)
Baška Voda's Malacological Museum, like that in Makarska,
has a collection of molluscs not only from the depths of
the Adriatic but also from other seas around the world.
QSrida 3, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 02 61. Open
10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3 5kn.
The Malacological Museum
(Malakološki muzej Makarska)
Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk
Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific
detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty
in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar
Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the
country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs - a large branch of the animal kingdom that
includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and
squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about
3000 shells in the collection and a collection of inverte76 Split In Your Pocket

Gallery
The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska
galerija Antuna Gojaka)
The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by
Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother
Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska's Van
Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life
itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska's first town
gallery in the building of the former grammar school.
Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to
the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year,
the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska's
cultural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, galerija.agojak@makarska.
hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. Admission free.

Churches
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary
(Crkva Gospe od Ružarija)
The slender bell tower of Our Lady is a startlingly pretty
sight perched on a hill above this coastal village. The
church dates back to 1752 but was significantly extended
in the 20th century. The bell tower was built between 1923
and 1925: a wedding-cake-like construction with four layers of columns encasing an open staircase. It's not unlike
the famous campanile of St Duje in Split. Apart from a collection of furniture and implements dating from the 18th
century, the church has stained glass windows added in
2001 created according to the designs of two contemporary Croatian artists. QIgrane, nr. Podgora.
Church of St Anthony of Padova (Crkva
sv. Anutna Padovanskog)
The hillside hamlet of Srida sela has a large and impressive parish church built between 1898 and 1901 to serve
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all the hamlets that make up Gornji Tučepi. Even though
the hamlets were largely depopulated following the 1962
quake, this is still the parish church of the Tučepi area. It's
built in quite a different style to most Dalmatian churches:
it has a pale lemon façade with a neo-Classical doorway,
plaster mouldings and a large semicircular window in
the frontage. The church's ceiling is painted with images
of the Assumption and of St Anthony of Padova, and all
windows are in stained glass. A statue of Friar Ante Gilić,
who constructed the church, stands at the bottom of the
nave.QSrida sela, Gornji Tučepi, tel. (+385-21) 62 32 51.
Church of St Philip Neri (Crkva sv. Filipa
Nerija)
You'll find this little church and its belltower seemingly interspersed between two houses right on the waterfront.
Its construction was initiated in the 18th century by Bishop
Stjepan Blašković, originally as part of the complex of the
Monastery of the Sacred Oratory which was later burned
down. Bishop Blašković is buried by the main altar here,
as is his nephew, Bishop Fabijan Blašković. A local legend
has it that one night the sound of the organ playing softly
was heard emanating from the locked church. The townspeople interpreted this as a sign from Bishop Stjepan that
he'd like to be moved. They opened his grave and to their
surprise they found his body perfectly preserved. They interpreted this as a miracle, although a likely explanation is
the action of sea salt. Whichever way, the grave was closed
and the eerie organ music was never heard again.QObala
kralja Tomislava (50m from Hotel Biokovo), Makarska.

Church of St Stephen the Martyr (Crkva
sv. Stjepana prvomučenika)
At the end of the 19th century, a growing population
along the seashore at Brela was in need of a church, so the
Church of St Stephen was built in 1889 on the site of an
older church. Standing in a thicket of pine, it's a pleasant
stone building with a pure white belltower added in the
1950s. The interior is beautifully airy, its light walls spangled with colour from colourful stained-glass windows.
The main altar was carved in marble in 1897 by a stonemason from Split. An altarpiece depicting St Stephen, St
George, St John and St Paul dates back to 1890 and is the
work of an Italian painter. An altar to Our Lady was bought
in Venice in 1825. Mass: 07:30, Fri 19:00, Sun 11:00.QDonje
Selo, Brela, tel. (+385-21) 61 86 18.
St Mark's Church (Crkva sv. Marka)
Viewed from a distance, the terracotta-tipped belfry of St
Mark's Church marks Makarska's central square, the heart
of the town. It is sometimes referred to as Makarska's cathedral, since right up to 1828 Makarska had its own bishop who had his seat here. Since 1828 Makarska has part of
the Archdiocese of Split-Makarska. The bishop has his seat
in Split, so nowadays St Mark's has the status of a co-cathedral or collegiate church: a church with no bishop but
otherwise similar in importance to a cathedral. Its interior
is certainly impressive. Construction of the church started
in 1700 and it was consecrated in 1756 although never
completely finished. The Makarska bishops began creating a religious treasury befitting the status of the diocese,
resulting in a wonderful collection of religious artworks
and liturgical items created by craftsmen from Venice, Italy
and Austria as well as local masters. In common with the
architectural treasures of the town, much of the religious
collection reflects the Baroque spirit prevalent at the time
of its creation. The treasury is an important chronicle not
only the development of the Catholic Church during that
era but also of trade relations and cultural exchange.QTrg
fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61
13 65.
St Nicholas' Church (Crkva sv. Nikole)
This church consecrated to the patron saint of Baška Voda
sits at the top of an elegant sweep of stairs in the centre
of town. It was built in 1889 in a neo-Romantic style. Two
small bells sit atop the church frontage, while the belltower to the right was added in 1991. In 1987 colourful stained
glass windows by contemporary painter Josip Botteri Dini
were installed, and a year later modern paintings of the
Stations of the Cross painted by Josip Bifel.QObala sv.
Nikole 73, Baška Voda.

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The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
(Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na
nebo uznesene)
The pretty and unspoilt shoreline at Zaostrog is graced
with the harmonious form of a large monastery with considerable historical and cultural significance. It was home
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to Andrija Kačić-Miošić, the friar, philosopher, teacher and
poet from nearby Brist for most of his life - he is buried in
the church here. The monastery in Zaostrog was originally
founded in the 13th century by a community of Hermits
of St Augustine who left in the face of Turkish invasions.
A Franciscan community, itself displaced from Bosnia, settled in the abandoned building in 1468 and are still there
today (not the same ones, of course). They worked hard to
expand and rebuild their monastery when fate deemed
it necessary, building a library that now has over 20,000
volumes, and running schools and a seminary for over five
centuries. Today there is an excellent museum here, which,
apart from the library, holds ethnographic and liturgical
collections, an archive that includes valuable Turkish documentation, and a gallery of works by local artist Mladen
Veža.QObala hrvatskih rodoljuba 36, Zaostrog (nr.
Gradac), tel. (+385-21) 62 92 00, branko.brnas@gmail.
com, www.samostan-zaostrog.com. Open by prior arrangement.
The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
(Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na
nebo uznesene)
The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were
frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely
monastery you see today came into being. The old monastery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone
wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served
as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of
the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied
natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which
today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals,
manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr Jure
Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today
and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum,
one of Makarska's top attractions, is a respected institution
with good links with similar museums around the world.
The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the
Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevci-split.hr.

Landmarks
Kalalarga (Široka ulica)
Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga – a
Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning
Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern
standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the
town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to
each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque
buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green
wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned
lanterns.QMakarska.
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Kostanić's Grave (Kostanića grob)
The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered
with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced
“stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding
these stones, which date from the period between the
11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at
the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own
legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac
and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with
the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from
Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of
Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief
on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr.
Drvenik.
Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik
turistu)
Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue
was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary
of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola
Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along
the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the
female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes,
it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good
luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists
the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.
Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip
don Mihovila Pavlinovića)
For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.
And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don
Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who
became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival,
a political movement campaigning for the right to selfdetermination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of
Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after
him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an
unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful
style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.
Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole)
Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the
town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know
that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s
grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches
sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in
1999.QBaška Voda.
Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra)
Watching protectively over Makarska’s waterfront from a
forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle.
In case you’re wondering, that key he’s holding in his hand
there is to Heaven’s gate, so you might like to be on your
best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by
Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated
as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave
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him meant “the Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He
went on to become the founder of the Church and the first
pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful
spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a
walk.QSt Peter's Peninsula, Makarska.
Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac
(Kameni stup za zastavu)
Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column
bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for
a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows
that the post was built during times of peace.QIn front of
the Tonoli Palace, Makarska.
Stone Tower (Kamena kula)
During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than
200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived
in constant fear of raids. It's not unusual, driving around
the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built
to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings,
creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.
QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac.
The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument
(Spomenik fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću)
Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the Croatian language pretty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, it's
no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of
place on Makarska's central square. His statue's plinth has
a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a
recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić, the monument's
creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one
of Croatia's greatest sculptors. The coats-of-arms you see
featured on the mosaic are of all the countries mentioned
by the poet in his famous songbook, "Pleasant Conversation of the Slavic Peoples". This expression of national consciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these lands, but
it didn't go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy
of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally
added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected.
Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south
of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and
a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the
development of the modern Croatian language. All in all,
a smashing bloke, you could say!QTrg fra Andrije KačićaMiošića, Makarska.
The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin)
Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were
founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most
prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making
tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of
millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi.

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fountain - this is where people came to get their supplies
for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a little juicy
gossip along the way. Today the splash of the water refreshes the square on the hottest summer day.QTrg fra
Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska.

Palaces
The Ivanišević Family Palace (Barokna
palača obitelji Ivanišević)
Of all the Baroque buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević
Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest citizens
used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs, the palace
has a galleried courtyard at its centre. It's privately-owned
and not open to the public.QLištun, Makarska.
The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli)
The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Venetian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it
houses Makarska's Town Museum, and you'll also find the
Tourist Association office here. Again, it's in the local Baroque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and
a romantic balcony at the front.QObala kralja Tomislava
16, Makarska.
The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela)
A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s
gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of
the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning:
grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue
they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic
visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity.
The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing
please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.
The Seagull's Wing Monument (Spomenik
Galebova krila)
On a hillside high above Podgora’s harbour is a striking
piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagull’s Wing
monument. During the Second World War, Podgora became the headquarters of the Partisans’ flotilla, which
helped defeat the Axis forces in what became Yugoslavia. This monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the
20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created by
sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the bird in flight symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its bent
right wing represents those who fell in battle. The monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives fighting
against fascism.QPodgora.
The Venetian Water Fountain (Gradska
česma)
A spectacular stone structure in front of St Mark's Church
featuring three lions' heads spouting water from their
mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the
fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occupied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible
for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts of
Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public water
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Sport
With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area is an unbeatable playground for adventure sports. Cycling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite its allure, you might
rather avoid the narrow, bendy, often overcrowded Adriatic
coastal highway: accidents are all to frequent. Better pick a
route through the old hillside villages - details in the nearest tourist board office. In the Biokovo mountains a tarmac
road runs 23km from the park entrance to the Sveti Jure
peak (again, watch out for traffic; helmets are mandatory).
There's also an 8 km gravel track from Staza to Saranač, as
well as belts cleared of trees to prevent the spread of fires
around the edge of the Nature Park. A 5km coastal path
from Makarska to Tučepi is perfect for a gentler ride. Still
on dry land, there are scenic and interesting hiking trails
in the Biokovo Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock
climbers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omiš. There are also
climbing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska and
on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above the earth,
there are two paragliding take-off points at Miletin bor
and Pržinovac in the Biokovo Nature Park. Water babies
will love a refreshing ride on a raft along the fast-flowing
Cetina river. And then, of course, there's the sea. You can
sail (or learn to), or surf, or windsurf. You can ride a jet ski,
or launch yourself in the air behind one on a paraglider. You
can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy a spot of sea fishing.
Whichever you choose, we assure you the experience will
be unforgettable.

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Makarska Riviera
Beaches
The Makarska Riviera is famous for its wonderful beaches,
some of which are several kilometres long. The beaches
are usually shingle or pebble smoothed by the sea into
rounded shapes which are comfortable to lie and walk on.
The white beaches fringed by thick pine forests and the
refreshing crystal clear waters are among the main attractions of the Makarska Riviera. Here are some of the best of
the beaches.
Dugi rat Beach (ex Punta Rata Beach), Brela - This
beach is regularly nominated as one of the loveliest in Europe, if not the world. Its white shingle turns into coarse
sand at the water's edge, making it ideal for children. It's
backed by pine trees which provide welcome shade when
the sun is at its strongest, a perfect spot for an afternoon
nap. This is the beach where you'll find the Rock of Brela
sitting just off the shore, covered in ancient crooked pines.
As the beach is in the centre of the pleasant resort of Brela,
there are plenty of restaurants and cafés along the waterfront as well as sports equipment for hire.
Živogošće Beach, Živogošće - Olive trees and pine forests grow alongside the lovely shingle beach at Živogošće,
so this beach is a great place to keep your cool and take a
refreshing dip on even the hottest day. Nearby Hotel Nimfa
is a good place to find something to eat and drink, and has
tennis courts, an open-air swimming pool and other leisure
facilities.
Nugal Beach, Tučepi - Nugal Beach is a famous naturist
beach on the Makarska Riviera. It's located east of Makarska, not far from Tučepi. It's hidden by steep cliffs; to get
to it you need to take a stroll through a lovely pine forest.
This is a piece of heaven for those who enjoy the freedom
of sunbathing and bathing in the clean sea just as nature
intended.
Mala Duba Beach, Živogošće - This beach made of small
white pebbles stretches through the whole village of Mala
Duba at Živogošće. Part of it is reserved for naturists. This
is a spectacular spot where the mountains plunge right
into the sea on the idyllic, pine-fringed shoreline. It's a
great place to enjoy an evening stroll and watch the sun
go down. Hotel Nimfa has entertainment on summer evenings. There's a small market where you can stock up on
delicious, locally-grown fruit and vegetables.
Berulija Beach, Brela - This beach, 400m long, is made
up of three little coves, perfect for those who prefer more
intimate beaches to long stretches of shingle. The beach is
well equipped with toilets and showers, there's a lifeguard
on duty and wheelchair access. Plenty of shade is available
in the pine forest behind the beach.
Gornja Vala Beach, Gradac - Gradac is a lively little resort with a number of hotels with discos and bars open all
night. The harbour here provides perfect shelter for small
vessels in bad weather. Gornja Vala beach is the longest
beach on the Croatian Adriatic and one of the most famous
of the Makarska Riviera's shingle beaches. It's located just
south of the little harbour. This is a scenic spot at the foot
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of the mountains. Pine and olive provide shade, and there
are plenty of sports facilities. There's a small naturist beach
a short distance away.

The Biokovo Mountain
Without those great grey mountains rising steeply from the
coast, the experience of being on the Makarska shoreline
would be much less of a thrill. That view is just so spectacular: in some places the cliff rising above the little seaside resorts is almost vertical and so close it feels like the
shoulder of a protective parent. In many senses, the mountain has protected and sustained humans for millennia,
so Biokovo is pretty much the mother lode of culture and
general fabulousness in this part of Dalmatia. Biokovo is not
a single mountain but a range of mountains that stretches
from just above Brela almost to Igrane in the south, about
25km, about half of the Makarska Riviera. It's part of a larger
system of mountains called the Dinaric Alps, a 645 km long
range that stretches along the Adriatic from Slovenia in
the north to Albania in the south. The Dinaric Alps, as you
might guess, are which is itself part of that famous range so
beloved of chocoholics. The mountains are made of limestone deposited at the time when this was a flat sea, before
tectonic movements sent the earth skywards. Limestone is
a soft rock that is easily moulded by water. This kind of landscape is known as karst and is well known for having fascinating formations including caves and sinkholes where
rivers dive underground. The highest peak of Biokovo, Sveti
Jure, is 1762m high, the third highest peak in Croatia. Due
to its geomorphological, biological and cultural diversity,
almost all of the Biokovo range has been declared a Nature Park. It is home to a wild variety of wildlife, including
endemic and endangered species. The best known is the

Wind Surfing - Photo by RikardoSkorlic

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If you come across rafioli in Makarska or Baška, they are a sweet treat
consisting of light, crumbly pastry with a sweet walnut filling.
Silvery Dwarf Harebell Edraianthzs pumilio. For centuries
the slopes of Biokovo provided a home to people seeking
shelter from enemy attacks - hardly anyone lived by the sea.
In the 20th century, the area became depopulated, meaning that modern life has hardly touched it. Therefore, this is
a historical and cultural treasure trove. Lovers of architecture will be enchanted by the ancient stone villages and
defences against Turkish attacks. Food buffs will find the
smells wafting from traditional-style taverns hard to resist.
So, while you're on the Makarska Riviera we beseech you,
don't be lulled into laziness by the sedutive sea. Take a trip
into the Biokovo mountains - you'll be astonished by how
much there is to see there. Apart from anything else, the
views over the coast and islands are astonishing.
The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain
range and has a number of information centres and educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required
to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarsa - Vrgorac
road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it
is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions:
the terrain is rugged - wear strong shoes or hiking boots.
The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at
sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water.
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Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is
forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force.
Presentation centres: phone (+385-21) 62 51 36.
Gornja Brela Presentation Centre
Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park, open to
visitors by prior arrangement.
Marin Kovačević Memorial House in the village of
Kotišina
Information on the Kotišina Botanical Gardens. Open by
prior arrangement.
The Kotišina Botanical Garden
This Botanical Garden, like the Malacological Museum in
Makarska, was founded by biologist Friar Jure Radić (19201990), and is part of an educational trail he also created.
Set in 16.5 hectares, the Garden is a reserve for local plant
species as well as an archive of exotic plants. It has some
interesting rock formations such as caves, cliffs and the Proslap waterfall which bursts through a narrow canyon after a
heavy fall of rain. There's a 17th century fortress, a protected
monument, and a chapel, St Anthony's (20th C). Just 3km
from Makarska and at an altitude of 350-500m above sea
level, this is a suitable destination for a good but not overly
demanding walk.
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Shopping
Leisure
Hotels
plan your activities with
our preview
The problem with holidaying on the Adriatic coast isn’t so
much as finding things to do, but rather with finding the
time in which to do everything. Whether you’re enjoying
a morning špica on Split’s Riva while watching the boats
coming and going, or wandering the narrow streets of
Diocletian’s city in search of afternoon repast, there’s always
something else that you’re hoping to squeeze into your
already-packed schedule. Restaurants, festivals, sailing and
diving, beaches, and all of these before you even turn your
attentions inland!
Split and its surrounding area is known for its pristine and
beautiful beaches, from sandy beaches in the city that are
suitable for families with children, to almost untouched
open pebbled beaches suitable for adventure and nature
lovers. In Split itself, under the Marjan, the beaches are
named Bene, Kašjuni and Kaštelet; locals will tell you
that without doubt the most famous beach is Bačvice,
where you can play the traditional home game picigin. The
islands within the Split archipelago are home to some sublime beaches; you can swim and have fun on the scenic
beach Zlatni rat in Bol, on the island of Brač. This picturesque beach has been declared the most beautiful beach
in Croatia and it is unique in that it changes its shape and
position, depending from where the wind blows. The island
of Biševo on the south side hides the Porat Bay which is
remotely visited as it can only be reached by boat. The
bays around the little island Proizd, near Korčula, bare
the unusual sight of white rocks, a turquoise sea and fresh
salty aroma in the air! On the way to Makarska, visitors will
come across a series of charming beaches, we simply have
to highlight Punta Beach or the so-called Velika plaža in
Omiš, Punta Rata in Brela, and Nikolina Beach in Baška
Voda. For those craving some Full Monty, a nudist beach
we definitely recommend is the Nugal Beach on the Osejava peninsula. Heading inland and away from the coastline, adrenaline aficionados will find it tough to choose in
what to do first with the abundant range of adventure activities on offer. The Omiš area (Biokiovo, Mosor) and Cetina
canyon is known for rafting, cannoning, canoe safari,
trekking, paragliding, free climbing and the audacious
adrenaline zip line right over the river. If you crave something on wheels, then there is ATV or Quad safari on the
islands of Čiovo near Split. It is here that the new discipline
of Deep Water Soloing can be attempted also. The islands
are best known for cycling tours, diving, and kayaking
at sea. Bol on Brač is particularly known as a destination for
kite and wind surfing.
The thrill is real we tell you!
Last but not least, for something more tranquil there are
wellness centres with vast services including (massage,
sauna, swimming pools, jacuzzi and spas) which can be
found within the five star hotels and resorts which are in
the vicinity of Split. So there's plenty to do from leisure to
adventure, pick n choose and enjoy the cruise!
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SHOPPING CENTRES &
MALLS
City Center one
QF-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 51 01 30, info-st@
citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. Open 09:00
- 21:00. June 01 - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00.
Joker Centre
QD-2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09,
[email protected], www.joker.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

ART GALLERIES
Atelier Mikulić
Paintings and sculptures by the Split-born academic
painter Neno Mikulić whose distinctive artistic style and
sculptures of ladies, sailors and ships can never go unnoticed.QE-3, Šimićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 091 515 25 75,
[email protected], www.gallerymikulic.net.
Open by prior arrangement. N
Jaman
Young Split artist Danijel Jaman’s original, vibrant and colourful paintings representing scenes of the Mediterranean,
sailing boats, world city landmarks, and more. Eye-catching
artwork!QI-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-)
098 32 27 19, [email protected], www.jaman-art.
com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A
84 Split In Your Pocket

Morić
A small yet very lovely gallery that offers a great selection
of paintings by Croatian academic painters. A true insight
into Croatian fine art!QJ-1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34
51 31/(+385-) 091 515 73 57, [email protected].
hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00.
Closed Sun. A
Paparella
Yet another charming art gallery where all art lovers can
find something to catch the eye, from paintings to lamps
to small boat models…all decorated and created with a
lot of love and taste.QJ-2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21)
78 54 21, [email protected]. Open 09:00 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Studio Naranča
Local graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been
at it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork,
hosting exhibits by Croatian and international artists
and participating in the local art scene. Stop by their
small, but impressive, gallery and show them some love.
QJ-2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 18, pavo.
[email protected]. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed
Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

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JAkšić Gallery
The gallery is run by the Jakšić family, from Donji Humac, a
village located on the island of Brač. The owner and father,
Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, the mother Ida Stipčić
Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son Lovre, an academic
sculptor and their daughter Dina has a doctoral degree in
arts. Their ancestors created the first stonemasonry workshop 112 years ago in 1903. The family trade was passed on
from generation to generation and in 2008, this extraordinary family turned the ancient workshop into an art gallery, which includes both workshops and studios. Six years
later they opened up a gallery in the center of Split. Their
gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculptures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by
Dina.QD-2, Bribirska 10, [email protected], www.
galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00 - 13:30, 16:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun.

CROATIAN DESIGN
Get get get
One store that has ‘made in Croatia’ written all over it! It is
a small designer shop in the heart of town run by a group
of artists aiming to create, exhibit and sell their products.
The works of academic painters, photographers, architects and others are presented.QJ-2, Dominisova 16,
tel. (+385-21) 34 10 15, [email protected], www.
getgetget.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Think Pink
One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and
where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes
and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at
its best! Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 08:30 - 22:00.QI2, Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26, thinkpinksplit@
gmail.com, www.thinkpink.hr. Open 08:30 - 21:00.
JA

DELICATESSEN
Blato 1902
Wine, olive oil, brandy and rakija (grappa) from the Blato
1902 company derive from the island of Korčula.QE-2,
Domovinskog rata 31, [email protected], www.
blato1902.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

delicacies.QD-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+385-21)
31 48 00, [email protected], www.vinoteka.hr.
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A
Gligora
Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag.
It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised
cheeses.QD-3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+38521) 27 42 59, [email protected], www.gligora.hr. Open
07:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. A
Judita - gourmet & wine shop
Set in the heart of historical Split, the stone walls of the
ancient city create the perfect setting for top class Dalmatian wines and the finest virgin olive oil.QJ-2, Marulićeva
1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 47, [email protected]. Open
09:00 - 22:00. A
Oleoteka Uje
Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils,
jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s
all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it,
‘olive oil’. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 21:00.
QJ-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, info@uje.
hr, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July 15 - August 15
Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Orao
A little Dalmatian sensation located away from the main
road, but don’t let that discourage you! Authentic proscioutto and cheese from the Šibenik and Zadar County
which can be bought in whole pieces or have sliced.QD2, Domovinskog rata 27a, tel. (+385-21) 31 55 00. Open
08:00 - 12:00, 16:30-19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
A
Pipi
Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe
this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked
its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long
history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi
has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia,
and especially the Dalmatian region.QD-2, P.I.Čajkovskog
1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 62, www.dalmacijavino.hr.
Open 08:00 - 01:00.

Dobro jutro
Titled ‘good morning’, this bakery is chock block with customers thanks to its tasty fresh bread, local pastries and
cakes such as sirnica, kroštule and more. They also have
fresh goats milk.QD-2, Domovinskog rata 1, tel. (+38521) 38 22 45, [email protected]. Open 06:00 21:00, Sun 06:30 - 13:30.

Split Tea House
Tea lovers choose from over 240 different world teas
weather for health, diet, beauty, or complexion. There is
green tea, yellow tea, white and black tea, oolong tea etc.
Tea pots and products are available and all at affordable
prices.QI-2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58,
[email protected], www.kucacaja-split.hr. Open
08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Enoteka Terra
A little piece of the Mediterranean with quality international and Croatian wines such as Pošip or Plavac mali, champagnes, rakija (grappa) and other Dalmatian gastronomic

Vinoteka Viola
Located in the heart of Split, this wine store won’t leave
you disappointed. Here you will be able to find and sample
a wide range of superb wines that will surely deepen your

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Hotels
love for vino!QD-2, Ulica Ivana Gundulića 36, tel. (+38521) 48 01 13, [email protected], www.vinotekaviola.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sun. A

SOUVENIRS
Atelier Perajica
This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get lost
in your thoughts or to pick up something unique as a gift.
Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here,
amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split
nostalgic and modern. The current owner, art theorist and
critic Dr Ana Perajica, has some unusual creations including photos printed on canvas and fringed with handmade
lace: voilà! Drinks mats! A functional keepsake that’s cool.
There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of
Croatian artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave
lace made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring
treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and
coral.QJ-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@
atelierperajica.com, www.atelierperajica.com. Open
10:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Sun. A
Dancing Bear
Dancing Bear is an exclusive record company in Croatia
that represents numerous artists, such as Zinedine Zidane,
Cold Snap, Đani Stipaničev, Meri Cetinić, Tutti Frutti and
many more. Their stores offer many records featuring local and international artists.QJ-2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel.
(+385-21) 34 43 09, [email protected],
www.dancingbear.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sun 09:00 14:00. A
Morpurgo
Enter the oldest book store in the world and take in its history. At the age of 20, Vid Morpurgo, a Jewish immigrant
opened this store 150 years ago on Split’s National Square;
in its jubilee, the city commemorates this milestone and
this man’s willingness to promote Croatian literature, and
find a meeting place for the cultured.QI-2, Narodni trg
16, tel. (+385-21) 34 68 43, [email protected]. Open
08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

specialty
Havana Cigar Shop
Cigars, from Cuba and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up,
dudes.QI-2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, split@
havana-cigar-shop.com, www.camelot.hr. Open 09:00
- 21:00. Closed Sun. A

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Hotels
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

5 stars
Atrium
QJ-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00,
fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, [email protected], www.
hotel-atrium.hr. 128 rooms (124 doubles €165 - 225, 4
suites €500). PZOHAR6UFLGKi
DCW hhhhh

4 stars
BEST WESTERN Art Hotel
QD-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02, fax
(+385-21) 30 23 00, [email protected], www.arthotel.
hr. 36 rooms (36 singles €99 - 125, 36 doubles €125 165). PHARUFLGBKDW hhhh
Marmont
QI-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/(+385) 091 129
01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel.
com, www.marmonthotel.com. 22 rooms (21 doubles
€340, 1 Presidential Suite €1050). PiARLGi
BKXW hhhh
Radisson Blu Resort
QF-3, Put Trstenika 19, tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax
(+385-21) 30 30 31, [email protected], www.
radissonblu.com/resort-split. 250 rooms (16 singles
€155 - 215, 204 doubles €175 - 325, 17 Junior Suites €325
- 515, 8 Senior Suites €555 - 615, 3 Family Rooms €315
- 375, 2 Penthouse Suites €2000 - 2500). PTHAi
R6UFLGBKDCwW hhhh
Vestibul Palace
QJ-2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 29, fax
(+385-21) 32 93 33, [email protected], www.
vestibulpalace.com. 7 rooms (5 doubles €395 - 495, 1
suite €840, 1 Junior Suite €650). PZTJALi
GBKW hhhh
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3 stars
Adriana
QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel.
(+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, [email protected], www.hotel-adriana.hr. 15 rooms (2 singles
€75 - 102, 11 doubles €102 - 142, 1 triple €123 - 163, 1
apartment €122 - 189). PJA6GBKXW
hhh
Bellevue
QI-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 44, fax
(+385-21) 36 23 83, [email protected],
www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr. 48 rooms (39 singles 470
- 600kn, 39 doubles 620 - 800kn, 6 triples 720 - 950kn,
3 apartments 820 - 1100kn). PALBKXW
hhh
Consul
QD-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30, fax (+38521) 34 01 33, [email protected], www.hotelconsul.net. 19 rooms (4 singles 620kn, 9 doubles 850kn,
2 triples 990kn, 4 apartments 1200kn). PHALi
GBKW hhh
Dujam
QE-2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25, fax (+38521) 27 30 81, [email protected], www.hoteldujam.
com. 35 rooms (4 singles €61 - 68, 29 doubles €84 - 94, 2
apartments €100 - 113). PHALGKW hhh
Kastel
QI-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax (+385-21) 34 39 12,
tel. (+385-) 091 120 03 48, [email protected], www.
kastelsplit.com. 10 rooms (1 single €115 - 125, 3 doubles
€125 - 135, 1 triple €170 - 180, 2 apartments €210 - 220,
1 Studio Apartment €125 - 135, 2 Twin Rooms €125 135). PJAGW hhh

HOSTLEs
Golly&Bossy
QI-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. (+385-21) 51 09 99,
[email protected], www.gollybossy.com. 87 dorm
beds, 27 - 33€ per person. PJHAGBKW
Silver Gate
QD-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28 57/(+385-)
099 282 38 44, [email protected], www.
silvergatehostel.com. 26 dorm beds, 10 - 25€ per person. PJNGW
Split Hostel Booze and Snooze
QI-2, Narodni trg 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@
splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. 16 dorm beds,
17 - 25€ per person. PNGW

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