specimen of a modiste's bill
in existence
has recently been
found
a
on
chalk
tablet at Nippur, in Chaldea.
The
hieroglyphicsrecord ninety-two robes and
tunics : fourteen
of these
were
perfumed
with myrrh, aloes and
cassia.
The
date of
this curious antique cannot
be less than two
thousand
Christian
remembered
these
ctre
written.
been
essential
latitudes.
eight hundred
In
era.
years
times
ancient
before
the
it must
be
sation
principalseats of civiliwere
Assyria and Egypt, and upon
countries
Western
nations depended
for many
derived
that the
of the
their
luxuries
fine
of
fabrics
life.
The
Jews
from
the
latter
progenitorswas chiefly
simplicity;and,
gather, no difference in
of
costume
our
for its extreme
remarkable
as
have
never
are
table
sphere
covering,like that
extremes
this been
Had
enter
skins
the earliest
condemned
beings
xx
1897.
a.d.
fibres,while furs and
of Quinborough."
Mayor
594"
articles of dress in Northern
;
you
the same,
get the name."
ones
'^
b.c.
new
than
more
used
Aliddleton's
\
called
now
are
worn
FASHION
we
as
can
between
made
design was
leaves entwined
birds, the
by
few
A
sexes.
of trees,
of
roughly dressed
skins of animals
were
probably regarded by
belles of the Adamite
beaux
and
period as
beautiful and appropriateadornments
for the
and
followed
made
were
by
body,
garments
from
doubtless
was
plaited grass, which
which
is
the origin of weaving, a process
than the mechanical
plaiting
nothing more
of
bark
the
the stalks,the feathers
or
hair, wool, flax, "c.
districts these
as,
for
annual
example,
in
Madras,
remote
many
still prevail,
where,
at
low
caste
period their
leaves.
In the
usual
attire for
Brazilian
an
apron
forests the
shirt tree," is to be found, from
the people roll off the bark in short
after
making
a
of
lecythis,
"
which
or
and,
an
it is customary
natives to exchange for
religious
ceremony,
for the
short
In
primitivefashions
lengths,
it pliable
in water, cut two
and
for the neck,
one
slits for the arm-holes
when
their
use.
The
dress
North
is
complete
American
and
Indian
ready for
employs
feathers for purposes
of the toilet,
and
many
African tribes are noted for their deftly-woven
fabrics
composed
of
grass
and
other
vege-
EARLY
KGVrriAN.
1:
2
THE
p"lace,which
in
or
brought
was
that it was
which
only
was
devised
between
of
Owing
forbade
Romans
used
with
complete robes of
being reserved for women.
silk
It is numbered
the
men,
Heliogabalus that
the
who
first man
silken
wool
of
ground
the
refused,on
show
that
Egyptians, owing
warmth
were
a
their
of
to
those
of
shades
climate,
In
this feature of
dye
obtained
murex,
the
under
of
name
livingon
which
general
be
purple,could
of both
in the costume
seen
sexes.
When
temperature,
trimming.
of the
the
passed
was
clothing of similar
design, but of wool, with
of the same
heavy fringes
a
later
a
from
395)
wore
cases
the
Republic,though
the
istence
ex-
of the Tigris,
who
subjected to greater
extremes
were
to
the
the banks
were
up
been
to garments of
partial
character,
semi-transparent
while
chiton.
employed
linen
or
respects
ready
date, as has alstated,silk was
imported. Colour, under
the Emperors, was
largely
used, and at least thirteen
at
to possess.
still in
Monuments
and
end of the
its extravagant cost, a silk
his
which
dress
consort
desired
earnestly
robe
the Greek
fabrics
The
teenth
nine-
the
for
in many
and
resembled
of
Aurelian,who
the Emperor
the Roman
was
century
gown,
spun,
home-
of course,
of leather.
stola
The
a
is well known
anecdote
chiton was,
equivalent
the
and
garment,
GREEK,
was
wore
thin metal
Among
plateswere applied.
the
working classes the
of
he
glass
cases,
and
ornaments
horses ;
and
some
or
among
luxuries
extravagant
chariots
and, in
by
for the entire dress
mings
trim-
embroidery,
diapers,
figurebands
woven
the
price,
its being
itshigh
to
length
The
of
were
silk.
entire
of
female
and
skirt.
the
of
rewoven
was
cloth
into
as
male
dress consisted in the
plan was
unravellingthe
stuff,which
tent
ex-
thirtyinches
body.
it is said the
and
the
to
the vital organs of the
The great distinction
over
in cloth,
half silk ;
manufactured
West
un-
manner
a
double
of about
product
the
to
If
feet.
waistbelt in such
in the dress of the Persians.
stance
circumIt is a remarkable
that this animal
the
to
itwould trailon the
girdled,
itwas
ground; but generally
drawn
or
through the zone
used
been
have
to
out
early Greek dress,
a
chiton, was
very
ing
simple contrivance, reach-
the
illustration will
known
stands
other
horizontal direction.
a
The
accompanying
give some
and
idea.
Medes
lonians,
Baby?V-of the highestclass,
partially
arrayedthemselves
which cost itsweight
in silk,
in gold,and about the time
of Ezekiel (b.c,594) it is
which
pendent,
one
rows,
while the
for nificent
magembroideries, of
in
is shown
costume
double
its linen
and
manufactures
FASHION.
rian
larly
particu-
was
for
noted
OF
EVOLUTION
a
to have
the
Roman
dismembered
dress
styleof
to
ROMAN.
that
(a.d.
seems
portant
flourished in the imterranean,
of the Meditowns
which
some
Assy-
pire
Em-
worn
was
similar
in mediaeval
THE
and which
times in Britain,
EVOLUTION
broidered
specimens
statuary adorning tombs of
of
thirteenth
the twelfth and
dress
and
have
been
sleeves
edged
with
the
the
of
loose
told
are
in
chequerwise
blue.
and
a
tions
descrip-
tunic
in
bare.
this
Over
was
yellowhair
Her
her
which
rested
secured
A
by
torque,
breastplatesas
the
from
her
with
covered
The
arms
of the
ladies
consisted
the
and
a
modern
and
linen
the
Anglo-
little black
used
women
at
this
were
colours.
and
white
period.
renowned
and
jewels
in
other
dress
and
the
to appear
ancient
sources,
MSS,
have
we
proofof this. St. Jerome
"
women
the
of
One
is to
philoscomon"
the
with
manage
root
their
out
St,
his
on
with
of the
stones
for
Bernard
sister
greater candour
arraied
women
curiosity
ornaments
body."
admonished
difificult
most
for clothes and
coat,
petti-
than
with
ness
polite-
him, well
visiting
riche clothinge,
and
precious
pedes
her
with
"
:
Such
pride to adorne
a
pompe
carion
Thinke
body.
and
as
is
not
ye
pore people, that be
deyen for hunger and colde;
and that for the sixth parte of
youre
of the
green
Very
were
persons
gay arraye, forty
might be clothed, refreshed,
and kepte from the colde?"
Saxon
youre
for
their skill with the needle,and
used largequantities
of gold
thread
of
in the eyes of all
increased in like proportion.
pointsto
favourite
red, blue, yellow,and
the fashionable
love
"
a
clothing, and
for
materials
traces
that is to say, lovers of finery,
writer states:
another
and
day. Cloth, silk,
were
the
calls
gunna,
gown,
Out of doors a
characteristic feature
evident
are
as
ample
lets.
brace-
in
figure.
civilisation advanced
that
BYZANTINE.
covered
dress of the
fastened
was
From
head rail,
formed
or
coverchief,
a
the
and
and
the upper portion
of the body, and with the
mantle
ground.
importantchange
and
surcoat
tight
beholders
or
with sleeves.
the
next
beautiful
was
bronze
of
lengththat
a
desire of the fair sex
sherie,or camise,of linen next
the
kirtle, which
skin, a
resembled
so
by
and
necessary to knot
that they should
not
There
were
ringsand
costume
Saxon
them,
cloths
sleeves
such
front to fitthe
upon
arrows,
fingersand
found
protection
a
Roman
the
tain
cer-
used
were
and
bodice,which
arms
necklet,
pair of
a
were
it was
was
a
the
ample cloak,
fibula (brooch).
or
also worn;
trains
The
an
a
sexes,
flowed
shoulders,
over
both
purple,red,
coloured
richest furs
trail upon
woven
shorter garment open
on
bosom, and leaving the
of
tions.
modifica-
and
Fine
of
wore
women
costume
additions
Boadicea,
the Queen of the Iceni,whom
we
the
was
dress
after the
years
Conquest,
Anglo-Saxon period,with
and
female
is that
Britain
some
retained
border.
a
of the earliest
One
For
broidered,
elaborately em-
and
of
coronation
herhusband, Edward
Norman
to
appear
the
of
the Confessor.
turies.
cen-
plain material
mantle
mantle
undersemi-tight
The
FASHION.
may
in the
be examined
OF
The
increased
facilities for
travellingoffered
their
work.
Among other instances
Editha
emquoted, Queen
engaged
the necessary
.\NGLO-SAXON.
to
those
Crusades, and
intercourse with
in the
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
quantities 200 marks were permittedto wear silver cloth,
other nations,caused considerable
lished;
"c., reasonably embelwith ribands, girdles,
land
of foreignmaterials to be imported to Engcloth
more
not
also
woollen
costing
had
during the Middle Ages: and this
the piece.
marks
six
than
of
the
costume
e
ffect
a corresponding
upon
in common
The tightforms of dress now
incentive
to tight
an
were
women
use
among
lacing,an
descendants
"
Clad
in
With
another
and
beaten
gold
purplepall,
gentyllbody and
middle
had
a
waist which
not
was
emeralds
with
embellished
was
small,"
splendidgirdleof
damsel, whose
the
from
rubies,evidently,
and
their
from which
injuriouspractice,
suffer. A lady is described
the
description,
size intended
Nature.
by
During
and
the union
by
Wars
the
made
costume
of the
the
of the
Roses
both
little progress, and
Houses
and
of York
marriage
of
Henry
VII.
trade
after
caster
Lanwith
Queen, Elizabeth, their attention was
in filling
their impoverished
chieflyconcerned
his
CENTURY.
I2TH
period,which
the
its richness
materials
the
for
was
chieflyremarkable
of form.
eccentricity
Among
and
in
use
be
may
mentioned
in Flanders,
for its rich dress stuffs;tartan, called
diaper cloth
famous
from
Ypres, a
town
tyretaine,"
meaning teint,or
Tyre (scarletbeing indifferently
used
for purple by ancient
writers, and
includingall the gradationsof colour formed
by a mixture of blue and red, from indigo
woollen
was
a fine white
to crimson). There
by
"
the French
colour
of
cloth called Blanket, named
after its inventor.
Sarcenet, also from its Saracenic
origin,and
which
gauze
Ermine
was
made
at
Gaza
in
Palestine.
the
to
use
strictlyconfined
the
of
nobles, and
Royal Family and
cloth of gold,and habits embroidered
with
lined
with
minever
other
or
or
jewellery,
expensivefur,could only be worn
by knights
and
per
was
ladies with incomes
annum.
Those
who
exceeding400
had not
more
marks
than
14TH
coffers,which
promoting new
VIII.
afforded
CENTURY.
little opportunityfor
left them
fashions
ample
of the trade in dress
in
dress.
Henry
facilitiesfor the revival
goods,and there
is little
THE
in tracing female
difficulty
sixteenth
the
six
century when
of
costume
remember
we
thirty-eight
years
of
course
EVOLUTION
the
that in
married
he
painted times
wives, besides having them
FASHIOA.
OF
"She
robed
was
'
'
with
lined
in
cloth
(petticoat)of
saya
crimson
of
gold, with
brocade, the
satin and
a
sleeves
trimmed
with
Her
train was
piled crimson velvet.
Articles of
than
two
yards long"
often bequeathed by will.
In
were
three
more
dress
the
[4th of August, 1540,
of Waterbeche,
To
mother
leaves
my
7ny holyday gowne.'"
Nicholas, Dyer of Feversham, 29th October,
made
one
William
on
Cherington,yeoman,
"
"To
sister,Alice Bichendyke,
1540,
my
thirteen shillingsand
ninepence 7vhkh she
owed
and
me,
John Holder,
leaves
with
lined
A
I
without
6th
Portrait
number
holland."
"
my
in
clothe
cypress." These
Ely Registry.
1544
frock
entries
attached
(so
the
as
of both
in the costume
distinct
sleeves
was
to
Fro7n
satin
of
Gamlingay,
Greene
peculiarfeature
sexes
but
of
wills in the
from
are
Jane
to
kerchiefs
two
rector
to
waistcoat.
be
from
the
changed
Among the
gown,
at
sure)
pleainven-
century.
of Mary
by
Queen of Scots,
all the
artists of
popular
the
day.
J. R. Planch^
in his
Costume," says: "The
and
magnificent,
were
"
of
History
British
of the nobility
gowns
at this period were
in front to the waist,showing the kirtle,
open
inner garment, as Avhat
or
then termed."
was
petticoat
who
found
so
worn
rich
of cloth
and
in
item:
damask
rme
Parr
of
gold
reign appears
yards
gold for a
Arragon."
of
"
a
round,
made
of the
account
"Seven
is thus
of
train, after the Dutch
of this Bluebeard's
call the
of Cleves,
in Henry's eyes, is
their first interview
at
wardrobe
a
should
Anne
littlefavour
said to have
gowne
without any
we
fashion;"
eighthyear
the
purple
ing
followcloth
of
kirtle for Queen
CatheThe
dress of Catherine
described
by Pedro
Spanish Duke
secretary to the
visited Henry
who
VHI.
in
de
de
Gante,
Najera,
1543-1544:
17TH
CENTURY.
pairs of purple satin
pairof linen sleeves
the arm,
quiltedwith
paned with gold over
with
one
black silk and
flowers;
wrought
tories
sleeves
find three
we
for
women,
one
EVOLUTION
THE
8
pair of
purple gold tissue damask
agletsof gold ; one
of
sleeves
wire, each
tied with
one
pair of crimson satin sleeves, four
of gold being set
on
each, and
button nine pearls.
We
with
familiar
all
are
adorned
middle
every
enormous
virginform
the
buttons
in
distended
the
and
skirts,jewelled stomachers
ruffs which
OF
of
Good
her
reign
body was imprisoned in whalebone, and
the fardingale,
the prototype of the modern
be
not
to
introduced, as it was
hoop, was
supposed
that a lady
Queen
the
In
Bess.
of
the
of Britain
costume
the middle
picturesquethan
more
of the
have
century, and
its great delineators
to
naturallyturn
and
Dyck, Rembrandt,
Velasquez, Van
Rubens, who delightedin givingus such fine
Women
had grown
examples of their work
tired of the unwieldy fardingale,
and changed
it for gracefulgowns
with flowing skirts and
low
bodices, finished with deep vandyked
we
or
embroidery.
an
elegantdeshabille
negligence,
collars of lace
studied
A
prevailed in
the
Court, particularly
Stuart
after the
three
and
Court
would
remain
dress
The
society.
portrait
of
Mary Queen
matters
been
had
to
it
which
in
the
s-
this
of
period
sary.
unneces-
is
wake
I9TH
BALL
fair type
gentlewoman of
skirt appears
of
that
fall in
CENTURY,
DRESS,
what
period.
was
The
I
1809,
worn
full
8th
COSTUME.
substantial character
machers
Sto-
Mary,
sleeves
fabrics
of
tight
were
a
once
rich
employed
were
the
William
and
favour, and
in
more
in
century.
WALKING
have
to
of
and
tume
cos-
it may
a
fashions
Dutch
appear
followed
cousin
her
he considered
a
i1 1 u
special
Court
Elizabeth,and
by
make
residence
the PYench
of
in
seen
trations
given. There is a
subtlety and charm
wanting
satin,
printseller's
window
apparel
is
about
be
every
cultivated
during her
at
voluminous
may
high degree
a
with
background.
and
Engravings
which
drawings
for
taste
of
elegance
of rich
in the
Scots,
authority on
of the toilet,
whose
and
whose
gowns
trains,are piledup
of
considered
was
an
and
longer
no
veiled,and
love
permeated
all classes of
who
necks
are
arms
grandmother;
Elizabeth's
us
whose
snowy
her
of
show
women
faithful to the fashions
and
the pictures
Hampton
in
in her wardrobe
of
beauties
of
tired,
similarlyat-
are
""%
sand
thoudresses
tion.
Restora-
Charles II. "s
bevy
left
in
seventeenth
is said
who
to
FASHION.
in
and
ference
pre-
of silk, which
to the softer makes
folds, and the
basqued bodice, with tightsleeves,is closely lent itself so well to the soft flowing hnes of
to
easy
moulded
to the figureand
surmounted
by an
ruff of muslin
elaborately-constructed
and
the
lace.
Fashion
To
the
great regret of
wardrobes
kept
at
James
of
the
our
ancient
Tower,
I. distributed.
were
At
previousera.
writer
intelligent
An
from
such
kings, formerly
by the order of
tradition,nor
no
periodwas
the
of
"
remarked
George
I. has
that
been
varyinggoddess that neither history,
paintinghas been able to preserve
the
antiquarians,
a
the time
has
all
her
in the
struggling
mimic
arms
forms;
like
of Telemachus,
Proteus
on
th^
EVOLUTION
THE
coast, she passed from
shape to
the rapidity of thought." In
Phanaic
shape with
the
1745
diminished
and
increased
had
hoop
at
in front, and
sides
the
pamphlet
a
FASHION.
OF
again
wide
to
and
bodice
but in
terminated
some
cases
different
of
next
super
"
the
of, and
at
a
"
the top.
with a
The
belt;
Garibaldi,or loose bodice
substituted.
was
which
polonaise,"
constructed
froc
proportionately
to
waist
the
texture, was
be noted
to
change
garment
"
the fore, skirts were
generallyflounced
on
similar
of the Middle
with
years Englishladies,
for the appropriate,wore
a
The
hideous
that
was
a
revival
lines to, the
Ages.
supreme
For
many
disregard
this with
a
skirt
entirelydifferent costume.
with these
But at last people got nauseated
abominations, and under the gentlesway and
influence of
Our Princess
a prettier,
more
rational costume
useful
and
appeared. In
dress, which
1876 the graceful Princess
accentuated
good point in the figure,
every
was
generallyworn ; and though this costume
in the latter part of its career
was
fiercely
Mrs.
abused
and
matron
by the rotund
belonging
to
an
"
"
CENTURY.
I9TH
publishedin
was
is." Ten
now
discernible
in
1830.
DRESS,
that year entitled "The
enorof the hoop petticoat,
as the
mousabomination
fashion
TEA
"
years later it is
and in
figures,
extending right and left
the
of
manner
George
are
ladies' dresses
dress
court
For
III.
we
some
indebted
strosity
mon-
George IV., and
to
rushed
then
reign of
abolition of this
the
Steel and
the
of
scarcely
1757 reappears,
after the
to
whalebone
the
other
dispensed
with, and narrow
draperiesdisplayedthe form
they were
supposed to conceal, and were
girdledjustbelow the shoulders.
extreme.
These
were
in time
was
followed
by
the
bell-
accession of Her
at the
shaped skirts worn
during whose reign
Majesty Queen Victoria,
fashion
has indeed
of the
sewing machine
appearance
run
of frillsand
riot.
was
the
The
19TH
CENTURY.
"
THE
POLONAISE,
1872.
invention
signalfor
furbelows, and
the
tricious
mere-
of every kind.
In
ornament
iTiiddle of the present century crinolines
the
were
clingingtoo closelyto the lines
distinctlyan
form, it was
advance
as
regardshealth and beauty on the
styleswhich precededit,
varying
Grundy,
of
the
for
human
The
cesthetic movement
influence
marked
but
more
last few
on
has
had
also
a
especiallyin the
though
years; and
the
the
of
costume
picturesque
twenty-fiveyears
which
may
almost
livery;and
to
hours
of
the
the
lilymay
the tailor-made
"
regarded as
we
good
to
seive
costume
moulded
adapted
to
our
cachet to the
dress,
national
that reposeful garment
in our
turn
affectionately
How
ease.
a
well each
the purpose
in its way
for which
designed,the simple cloth, tweed,
is
a
be
the tea gown,
which
calculated
garb of
of
canons
dominant
Two
notes, however, have been
struck in the harmonies
of costume
during the
last
TAILOR-MADE
the
fitness, beauty, and
in all directions, taste.
taste
our
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
lO
to
the
lines of
or
the
is
it
serge
figure,
changeful climate, and giving
not
always found in
wearer,
DRESS,
worshippersof
the
sunflower
and
be
and
adapted to the wear
tear of this workaday world, it is beautiful in
form
and
design, incapable of undue
sure;
presfor children
and
and
girlsit
young
be difficult to imagine a more
would
ing,
charmnot
and
artistic,
Once
more
becoming costume.
we
of
lovely women,
despair. The
which
a
few
with favour
which
plain ones
and
delicate
to
tints
since
been
were
regarded
superseded by garish
shades
and
bright colours, which
quarrel with everything in Nature
Unfortunately, we
classical
caricatures
makes
drives
and
subdued
seasons
have
eschewing
are
lines for grotesque
English
are
to
seem
and
Art.
to
prone
and
extremes,
possess the imitative rather
than the creative faculty. Consequently,our
national
costume
combination
our
to
of
Continental
is seldom
some
of
but
distinctive,
the
worst
neighbours,who
garb themselves
with
so
a
styles of
would
scorn
little regardfor
TEA
much
more
in the best
costlyapparel,a
sense
of all ages
women
to
1897.
GOWN,
themselves
of the
rational costume
word, and
may
assume
and
to
those
one
with
with
which
tion
satisfacwhom
EVOLUTION
THE
in contact.
they come
The
tea
gown,
the
on
other
hand, drapes the figurelooselyso as to
fallin graceful
folds,and may be regarded as a
distinct economy,
as it so often takes the place
expensive dress. Beauty, which is
of Heaven's
is usebest gifts
one
to women,
less
unless appropriately
framed, and a wellknown
cally,
exponent on the art of d ressingartisti-
of
a
has laid down
are
we
turn
source
of
Nature
to
we
inspiration.The
than
shelf
calmly allow
some
those
their
cases
without
be
to
a
placed on
murmur,
and
their junior,and in
slightly
senior, to appropriate the
adapted
to
to
our
look
our
contrasts.
unfailing
set
foliagetints,sun-
have
an
the animal and mineral
effects,
of colour, which can
old
decrepitude,submit
social
the
that harmonies
the axiom
successful
more
offer schemes
And
dress of
more
of colour
If
FASHION.
OF
and
persons
best and, above
is a duty which
gracefully,
worlds
all
be
readily
surroundings.
all,to
every
grow
daughter
MODERN
DRESS.
EVENING
good thingsof life,and to monopolise the
in their
attention of all and sundry. Mothers
be perallow anyone
who can
prime willingly
suaded
do
to
to
chaperone their
so,
daughters,and to pilotthem through the
social eddies and
quicksands of their first
fail to
and through sheer indolence
season,
AN
After
of Eve
ARTISTIC
a
painting by
DRESS,
Sir Jos him
1
897.
exercise the lawful
and responsibility
authority
/Reynolds.
which
maternity
entails.
woman,
conscious
The
in
humanity.
manner
which so many
women
give way early in life
is simplyappalling. While
stillin the bloom
of womanhood
the habits and
they assume
owes
to
that
maturity,takes
corners,
and
and
middle-
assumes
unmarried
The
is
no
longer
indifferent to the
her firstyouth, and
of
she
to
in
charms
socks in obscure
knitting
air of self-repression
an
agednesswhich
takes
apparently
EVOLUTION
THE
ten
conveys
old
the
to
the
passed
time
civilisation
the
later
display
coiffure
comfort
that
in
pearl
the
bloom
of
the
strictly
nevertheless
aged
could
will
woman
claim
velvet,
by
others
brocade,
she
drapes
other
A
her
rich
a
the
education
and
within
the
of
there
prevailing
requirements;
teach
which
who
to
middlemore
person
fabrics
and
if
is
one
to
women
other.
each
out
for
form,
rich
in
daily
needs
large
number
which
ofifend
exact
and
life,
the
eye
adapted
startling
in
would
various
only
beautiful
should
we
the
be
cannot
opposites
person
raiment
to
ment
senti-
reasoning
who
texture,
of
guide
style
each
own
ought
particular
are
our
our
other
every
to
at
the
of
prevent
to
sense
herself
of
classes
to
ignore
If
think
a
training
art
all
common
supposed
that
leaves,
green
fashions
we
jewels,
ornament
no
nothing
is
(even
us
appropriate
are
grasp
modifying
columns
than
beauty.
and
community
like
its
in
youth
of
arms,
need
to
shoulders
brighter
locks
suited
belong
necks
are
eyes
nestling
rose
emblem
present
and
luxuriant
who
which
be
and
their
creatures)
that
those
herself
and
but
Their
they
past
dimpled
whiteness,
ivory.
plexion.
com-
points
concealed.
respect
from
people
beauty,
good
while
if
and
rouge
combine
of
race
to
many
be
and
healthy
and
a
accentuated,
pleasing
respected
in
world
have
be
might
lay
light
young,
snowy
in
materials,
Gossamers
their
dignity,
herself
similar
since
long
style.
with
With
conviction
circumstances
of
fit
whose
distinguishable
youthful
variety
into
cannot
less
a
save
rooms
ball-
the
her
decking
and
net,
particular
and
pensations.
com-
nature,
the
shaded
of
attenuated
than
art
hardly
are
their
crowded
or
with
carefully
a
powder
bring
to
more
entirely
beholders,
all
themselves
A
to
gaze
owes
who
of
in
of
they
redundant
their
the
to
because
benefit?
in
persists
give
and
folds,
stately
she
crepon,
the
who
in
fall
if
muslin,
enjoyments
have
in
who
which
her
those
that
life
of
stages
sink
FASHION.
than
dowdyism
are
youth
to
Women
forms
their
deprecated
desperately
so
forget
be
to
the
for
provided
and
women
of
from
off
has
youth
slough
a
and
she
between
these
into
has
Equally
cling
line
themselves
cut
that
onlooker,
should
Why
their
existence,
of
span
casual
boundary
age.
before
and
her
from
years
OF
be
in
to
the
spared
incongruities
directions.
a
II.
Chapter
HEADGEAR.
CURIOUS
HEADGEAR.
CURIOUS
painterplaysthe spider,and hath
golden mesh to entrap the hearts of
The
A
Merchant
The
Writ
HOLY
the
to
that
that
at
allusions
of
there
early period
an
head
was
is
in the
the
to
a
fair
the
East, and
awakened
well-tired
a
console
Venice.
of
tresses
the
of
historywomen
world's
not
clever husband,
a
men
with
simply teems
luxurious
daughters
little doubt
herself for the loss of such
woven
gnats in cobwebs."
than
Faster
could
that Artemisia
surprising
in her hair
Here
IS
II.
Chapter
"
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
fact
potent
very
recognised market
were
particularly
in this respect, and
famed
employed female
barbers,who, with the aid of crispingpins,
horns, and towers, prepared their clients for
These
jewelled horns were
rally
geneconquest.
made
of the precious metals, and the
had
attraction, and
the condition
denoted
position
married
A
side
a
Jewish women
value.
of the
she who
head,
the
was
thrown
Over
crown.
on
the
on
wearer.
the
right
left,and
unappropriated blessing
stillan
was
on
widow
a
of the
it fixed
had
woman
the
horn
the
as in the illustration.
coquettishly,
delighted in long ringlets,
of
by a band
Assyrianwomen
confined
the
metal, and
not
above
the weakness
plaiting
gold wire
in
anecdote
solus. King
turned
his
of
in
stored
wigs
in
made
the
agents
cover
their denuded
delighted to buy
at
wore
of
preserved
British
the
Museum.
multitude
a
of
dark
with
tresses
or
The
HEAD-DRESS
was
and
went
the
perukes destined to
polls,which they were
It is not
price
any
"
vegetable,and
which
and
it
was
elsewhere
adorned.
have
brilliant
fillet
a
with
JEWISH
with their
contrasted
efiect \
ANCIENT
animals,
other
and
which
the
monarch's
still
plaitsand jewelled
resemblingpeahead-pieces
cocks
he
them
round, offering
also
some
small
and
houses,
royal warepublished an
edict compelling all his
subjectsto have their heads
A few days after,
shaved.
wigs,
are
Ladies
requiredreplenishing.
Having first had a quantity
of
of
one
of the world.
Egyptianswere
which
to
his memory
to
counted
partialto
quer
exche-
his
ill-gotten
building such a
the wonders
The
ashes
of her
some
lord's
in
monument
of Caria, who
ness
people's fond-
when
account
spent
that it was
of Mau-
flowinglocks
for
wine, she
lamented
"
curious
drinkinghis
satisfied with
revenue
Rimmel, in The
of Perfumes," relates
Book
"
that,not
dissolved
with their
beards.
a
and
were
men
HEAD-DRESS.
EGYPTIAN
veil
a
coiffure of
a
remarkable
princess
for its size
the abundance
mineral
In
been
mented
orna-
lotus bud.
treasures
Egyptian
discovered
mal,
of aniwith
tombs
small
resembling the
combs
wooden
comb,
shape
same
mirrors
metal
and
in
those
as
preciselythe
the present
at
use
Berenice, the wife
getes.
It is related
his
expedition
well
toilet
ances.
appli-
his
hair
Grecian
of
in
sculpture affords
studyingthe different
that
the nity
opportuin favour
and
When
to
vow
a
her husband
if he
in
ancient
spread
their charms.
the form
was
of
a
favourite
a
Cauls
mitres
of different
simple
and
sometimes
flowers, all
different
designs,
of
confined,
at
periods,the
locks of the
of ancient
the
and
was
heathen
among
riant
luxu-
Helens,
to
consecrate
as
was
in
well
as
either
consumed
temples,
or
HEAD-DRESS
OF
hung
on
THE
Coma
Berenices
of
instance
is that
set
with
hair when
cut
the head, and
the
trees.
it
jewels,and
to
Jupiter
hair of the head
and
CENTURY.
beard
off,
it
the altar,deposited
upon
hair
stellation,
con-
Capitolinus.
The
13TH
gods the
growing on
which
old writer tells
consecrated
to
their
that
constellation
a
Berenice) to
Another
day.
present
gold
custom
nations
into
was
been
Nero, who, according to
Suetonius, cut off his first
beard, put it in a casket of
Xantippes
common
ing,
miss-
of
times.
a
Cyprus.
had
heavens,
remarkable
ENGLISH
It
hair
report
it
that
is called
us,
her
her
afterwards
a
her.
to
kept
of
temple
an
(the
chaplets,
Penelopes, and
in the
metal
bands,
offered
was
turned
fashion.
network,
of
she
when
loose
A
the
This
by a clasp in
grasshopper,
knot, fastened
returned
back
came
her
its fineness
for
word, and
for enhancing
king went
solicitous for
consecrate
remarkable
astonishingto find what a
were
variety of methods
adopted by the belles of
Greece
the
is
Ever-
ROMAN.
beauty)to Venus,
it is
and
country,
us
modes
safety,made
(which was
of hair
Ptolemy
Syria,she,
ANCIENT
other
numerous
as
of
that when
to
GRECIAN.
ANCIENT
of the consecration
that of
on
day, as
instance
famous
tooth-
modern
of
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
\6
A
appears
to
have
been
in great respect by most
nations, and
hair
perhaps we may trace the use of human
in spells and
incantations
this fact.
to
Orientals especially
falls
the hair which
treat
held
THE
EVOLUTION
EASHIOK.
OE
had
17
them
unkindly. Ovid
acquaintance in the
havingdestroyedher hair.
treated
dered,
rebukes
lady
a
plainestterms
"
I not
tell you
to leave off dyeing
hair?
hair left to
Now
have
no
you
and
:
locks
:
and
were
so
comb
them.
the
of
cause
handsomer
yet nothing was
your
the
for
his
Did
yoar
dye
of
down
they came
to
fine that
you
Your
hand
own
loss you
deplore:
HORNED
HEAD-DRESS
Effigy of
supply
your
many
Ger-
vanquished
How
ornament.
CENTURY.
OF
15TH
of Arundel
Countess
will
Now
a
the
poured
you
poison
nation
been
has
"
troin
afraid to
were
head.
on
your own
will send you slaves' hair
than
knees,
your
in
Arundel
Church,
from
them
it,so that
with
no
Roman
wigs and
shall
ebon
own
dye
use
and
it to their
bury
prejudice.
preferredblonde
generally
matrons
hair to their
o
superstitious
care,
one
when
tresses, and
Nature,
as
resorted
they consi-
vor"
\
EARLY
TUDOR
HEAD-DRESS.
times, when
you hear people praising
beauty of your hair,you will blush and
It is bought ornament
:
to
say to yourself
which
I owe
beauty, and I know not
my
what Sicambrian
virginthey are admiring in
many
the
'
yet there
And
me.
deserved
It would
or
brother
was
a
time
when
I
"
compliments.'
puzzleany Jin de siecle husband
his displeasure
in more
to express
all these
words
appropriate
than
those chosen
by
the
poet.
STEEPLE
HEAD-DRESS
OF
15TH
CENTURY.
The Britons,before they mixed with other
fair-haired race, and early
a
nations, were
c
THE
the
reddish
with
with lime
boiled
in water
which
locks
the
after
shoulders;but
is described
Boadicea
colour.
flowing
a
varietyof shapes,of
increase
to
FASHION.
OF
washingtheir auburn
writers referred to their
tresses
EVOLUTION
written
her
fell upon
Invasion
Roman
During the
adopted either
the accompanying
better idea than any
which
givea
description.
will
sketches
sixteenth
matrons
century
pointed hood, composed of
velvet or other rich fabric,often edged with
coif,or the French cap to
fur,a close-fitting
of the unhappy Mary
in the portraits
be seen
a
Those
Stuart.
their
hair
with
knots
Nature's
maiden
of
most
"
had
unmarried
were
embellished
and
braided
of pearls,or
ribbon, strings
beautiful
sweet-scented
auburn
The
who
simply
tresses
for the
adornment
flowers.
of
Gracious
Her
bien
Majesty Queen
various
her
from
if
we
judge
coiffee,
may
portraits.She scorned the hoods, lace caps,
and
by her contempopointed coifs,worn
raries,
miniature
or
crown
and
a
adopted
of
hat
elaboratelyjewelled.
velvet,
jaunty
fair complexion and
Her
light hair were
into relief by rufiles of lace,and this
thrown
always
Elizabeth, were
HEAD-DRESS
HORNED
OF
EDWARD
's
IV.
REIGN.
the hair
both
of
the fashion
Planch^'s
From
Costume,"
a
the
have
been
"
all classes of
long piece
round
followed
women
"History
learn that
we
among
was
and
men
of the conquerors.
head
a
was
dispensed with
was
then
dress
head-
the
Anglo-Saxons
silk wrapped
or
neck."
It appears
to
or
head-rail,
wimple, but
in the house, as the hair
cherished
as
British
female
linen
of
and
called
of
the
an
ornament
as
at
the
by Adhelm,
present day. A wife described
in the
Bishop of Sherborne, who
wrote
twisted
eighthcentury, is said to have had
curled by the iron ;
and in
locks, delicately
of
the poem
Judith the heroine is called
"
"
"
"
"the
maid
Two
were
long plaits
and
were
of the
probably adopted by
countrywomen
During
the
after the
Middle
underwent
many
and
linen
bands
hair
and
chin,
shaped
Creator,with twisted locks."
worn
by Norman
ladies,
erections
changes.
Golden
closelypinned
were
and
our
Conquest.
Ages feminine
followed
horned
round
own
gear
headnets,
the
ELIZABETHAN
delicate
fabric
was
stretched
fine wire
over
frames, which met at the back, and remotely
suggested the fragile
wings of the butterfly,
the nimbus
of a saint,neither of which
or
ornaments
was
particularly
appropriateto
by steeple- lady in question.
head-dresses in
HEAD-DRESS.
over
a
cushion, or
The
front hair
dressed
was
the
turned
in stiff sausage-
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
19
left to the sterner sex for some
like curls,pinned close to the head, and was
years after the
of
the House
of Stuart, and
of flashing restoration
with stringsand
stars
satisfied with
well -brushed
were
women
the forehead.
on
gems and a pendant resting
That ^splendid
ringletsescaping from a bandeau of pearls,
historian,Stubbs, who has
adorned
left us
such
of
particulars
minute
the fashions
or
was
hair
beautified
by a singleflower. The
arranged in small, flat curls on
often
the
forehead, as in the sketch of a Beauty of the
Court of Charles H.; and this fashion had a
softeningeffect on the face,and was known
as
the
"
Dutch
Court
is
Sevigne style."
fashions naturally
prevailedin
of William
and
represented
with
Mary, and
the
this queen
muslin
cap,
high
upright frills,
edged
with lace, and
long lappetsfallingon the
Love
shoulders.
Farquhar, in his comedy
and
the Bottle," alludes to the
high topknots,"
and
Swift,to the
pinners edged
with
adorned
a
a
series of
"
"
"
with colberteen,"as
the lace streamers
this period the hair was
called.
About
againrolled
some
BEAUTY
of his
the
THE
OF
be
the
Court.
and
borders
it should
"
states
underpropped
with
with
ornamented
Such
wrought.
Then
tearms,
French
a
the
upon
stately
turrets, stand
:
or
gewgaws,
found
necessary
make
to
ear
It
:
in
out
to
the
be
down, must
and weirs, and
forkes
gold
in woman's
recount.
one
fall
it was
cases
the coiffure of
He
from
other, and lest
the face,and assumed
much
so, that in
II.
CHARLES
curled, frizzled,
crisped,laid
wreaths
and
OF
describes
time,quaintly
ladies of
must
COURT
from
dimensions, so
enormous
A
back
were
once
silver
which
I
curiously
skilful
being un-
easily
cannot
toppes
their other
of
their
ments
capitalorna-
hood, hatte,cappe, kircher
be of velvet,
some
suchlike,whereof
some
of
Cauls
made
this
silver,or
sometimes
fashion
and
some
of
that.
of
netwire,that the cloth of gold,
their hair was
tinsel,with which
covered, might be seen
through ;
lattice caps with three horns or corners,
like the forked caps of popish priests."The
Harleian
MSS., No. 1776, written in the
middle of Elizabeth's reign,refers to an ordinance
and
for the
reformation
of
gentlewomen's
and
head-dress,
ermine
or
"
None
shall wear
says :
lattice bonnet
unless
she
be
an
END
This
gentlewoman born, having Arms."
phrase, we
conclude, refers to
may
armorial
not
to
bearings,
physicaldevelopment.
latter
The
wearingof
false hair and
periwigswas
OF
17TH
CENTJRY.
a
doorways broader
and
higher than they had
fashionably-dressed
ladies to pass through without displacing
the
elaborate
erections
they carried. Stuffed
with horsehair, clotted with
pomade and
hitherto
been,
to
allow
c
2
decked
powder, and
with
every
from
miniature
a
ornament,
full sail,to a cooing
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
20
Varied, indeed, have
conceivable
in
man-of-war
FASHION.
the
19th century,
been
wings,
outspread
presumably
its nest,
sittingon
a
basket
of
wreathed
in,
called
form
hair
dressed
and
not
was
cleanliness
as
book
costume
on
hairdresser
a
coiffure
compensated
by the
her
COIFFURE
FASHIONABLE
LALY
ELDERLY
AN
"
THE
I
8th
century.
well
deliver
began
it now,
be a
to
hazarde."
make
nature
was
of
us
it
used
were
little
and
matter
on
British
informs
that
this
feel
wind.
it
bon
ribthe
this
In
witching
be-
costume
of
were
mothers
grand-
our
and
wooed
by suitors
evidently,from
impassioned love
his
tume,
Cos-
who
the
ters
let-
stillin existence,
us
believed
FASHIONABLE
HEAD-DRESSES
IN
THE
TIMES
OF
them
to
be
of loveliness.
perfecttypes
was
by Her
Majesty Queen Charlotte,Consort
III.,and
and
gauze
floated
in
tained
powder mainits ground till
when
^793)
discarded
sion,
profu-
won
Planch"^, in
work
in
bows
stringsof
ancestors.
our
of
feathers
and
secondaryimportance
to
Garlands
personalhygiene
a
or
bunches
flowers
Various
anecdotes
that
materials.
and
to
as
stretched
was
gathered silk, satin,
aerophane, or similar
in
proper
wide
had
curiously-shaped
which
brims, over
fore,
"and, thereit was
with
These
and
Nine
go
bonnets
generally worn
it.
he
mildly
suggested that that
was
as
long as a head
summer,
and
hats
weeks,"
could
size of the
enormous
IN
been
replying,
was
for
OF
opened
repaired. On
and
this
of
of his customers
how
since her
long it was
hair had
The
simplicity
asking one
as
was
a
scribed
de-
is
head,
front
shell side-combs.
manded,
dein
for
the
the
generallyin bands or
short
ringlets,held
in place by tortoise-
frequently
so
of
crown
of expense
for other reasons,
the
1830
distinguishedby
of
upstanding bows
plainor plaitedhair,
the
on
arranged
score
and
other.
of
was
imagine,on
may
greatest
to each
belle
The
incapable of
and
constructing
manipulating such a
of tangledlocks.
mass
the
the
contrast
was
were
We
Only
styles
the
will be selected which
bons.
rib-
ladies
as
of
be
can
adopted
touched
briefly
upon,
those
and, naturally,
or
the
Naturally,
aid of the barber
few
a
flowers
with
is fast
approaching.
"*
with
dove
of
the fashions
the close of which
the Princesses."
THE
GEORGES.
T
of
George
middle
was
of
dressed
Queen
in
a
Victoria's
o
war
d
s
reign,the
simple knot,
and
the
hair
the front
THE
arranged
the
married
and
in
chest
for
which
ringlets,
and
shoulders.
EVOLUTIOA
OF
fell gracefully
on
Even
youthful
ladies,in the privacyof their homes
morning dress, were
expected, by
FASHION
The
child's
21
labours
of
one
of those
fickle
caps,
chignon,
be
mere
to
i8S5i
1872.
potent but unwritten
PRESENT
laws of the
muslin
goddess Fashion, to wear
with
lace borders, embellished
ribbons.
would
giving a faithful
of the chameleon-like
record
changes which
have affected that kaleidoscope,
pubhc taste,
1830.
bird's-nest
Hercules
play compared
or
net
with
DAY,
1
894.
during the last fortyyears, and a very limited
subjectat once constudy of this fascinating
vinces
ajipcar,
us
that, whatever
they
are
certain
peculiarities
may
to
be
revivals
or
THE
23
modifications
less
or
of
the
8th
the
its
bonnets
hats
for
la
a
winter
wear,
firmly
on
with
the
nothing
with
warmer,
when
and
caught
attach
snug
a
and
string
immortalised
facsimiles
hats,
his
the
all
named
leghorn,
was
flapped
styles
and
the
those
of
them
well
adapted
and
hats
on
of
their
made
satin,
and
fully
that
has
the
forehead
hair
the
but
be
may
the
arranging
by
forehead,
and
by
which
adds
to
sides,
the
it
is
Pope
not
the
left
on
in
it
soft
its
of
And
tresses
beauty
man's
record
style
:
draws
imperial
us
by
race
a
single
ensnare,
hair."
at
width
admirers,
of
Fair
curls
slightly
apparent
have
to
sure
with
generally
whatever
But
countenance.
fashion,
hair
face
back
is
waving
safe
a
and
drawn
face
long
a
head,
as
low
a
is
panying
accom-
taken
is
us
which
the
by
be
may
Another
English
average
to
that
by
given
hair,
the
explained
It
the
advantage,
in
Langtry
by
worn
when
"
lace,
is
sketch.
the
indigestible
and
the
to
which
handle
has
dressing
of
varying
bun."
"
the
at
latterly
fashion
of
waist.
rolls
door
a
and
the
wheel
mode
simple
improved
has
of
monstrosity,
the
of
the
to
knots,
loaf,
cottage
a
down
reaching
gigantic
Grecian
skull,
dimensions
hideous
small,
to
Leech
but
Rousby,
from
rule,
most,
upper-
keep
to
of
curls
head
by
wedges
half-way
of
the
of
like
plaited
hump
followed
tbe
back
in
cascade
a
crown
were
and
necessary
as
the
These
in
of
could
dressed
was
pendant
a
or
these,
Turbans
delicious
crinoline,
their
which
it
sketches.
;
keep
keel
edge,
after
namesakes
foot-
mop
back,
beneath
heart
fashion
of
illustrated,
like
flowing
the
hair
The
the
or
woman
and
shape
every
devise,
could
exacting
frizzy
the
of
tissue,
gold
fancy
most
turn
fox
Besides
hats
Gainsborough,
respective
straw,
;
in
of
pork-pie,
the
such
fixed
bling
resem-
temperature
turned
till
to
taut
now
mushrooms,
wind
the
the
airing.
flexible
were
and
proper
canoes
while
head
as
a
an
pinched
were
or
ladies
at
enjoying
there
and
which
by
;
the
from
rounded
sur-
feathers
wearer,
much
extremities
pedal
the
of
so
plates
animal's
an
brow
that
replaced
fur
of
almost
were
shallow
others
tilted
were
hair
of
were
like
Chinois,
introduced,
they
These
the
edifice,
curl,
mountains
them.
and
that
desire.
blance
resem-
of
monstrous
that
the
faint
a
Alexandra
minute
so
in
ghastly
coiffures
this
Upon
seductive
invisible
bore
which
exaggerated
century.
with
silver
more
our
that
us
upon
chignon,
to
1
by
FASHION.
size
loomed
1872
horror
favoured
styles
OF
ancestors.
remote
In
EVOLUTION
is
for
III.
Chapter
GLOVES.
FASHION.
OE
EVOLUTION
THE
25
III.
Chapter
GLOVES.
"
Gloves
"
See
sweet
as
how
O, that I
That
I
as
damask
leans her
she
were
upon
that
glove upon
a
might
roses."
cheek
touch
an
as
which
have
been
and
Koineo
recently
Juliet.
in
discovered
is
Switzerland, there
its existence,
Probably
the
old
the
"
to
the
laws
OF
gloves
above
reach
formed
were
needles, and
instance
an
skins,
of
of
their
more
seventh
of Ethelred
the
we
an
century known
according
Unready,
five
remained
in force till 1826.
the
sewn
to
HAWKINS
Persians,gives
effeminacy "that
the
-(SLove
not
that the coldness
hands
not
the
of Beowulf," and
Poem
which
their
head
and
only covered
from
cold
feet, but guarded their hands
by thick gloves." Homer, describingLaertes
with
in his garden, represents him
at work
his
them
hands
to
from
on
gloves
protect
thorns.
Pliny the younger, in speaking of
his uncle's visit to Vesuvius, states that his
anything
secretary sat by ready to write down
his
that was
remarkable, and had gloves on
they
devour
pairs of gloves formed part of the duty paid
merchants.
to that Prince
by certain German
In Planchi's
"History of British Costume,"
an
Anglo-Saxon lady appears to be wearing
a
glove with a separate division for the
but
without
thumb
exactly
fingers,and
resembling an infant's glove of the present
In
IV.
forbade
the
1462 Edward
day.
of
to
importation
foreigngloves
England, a
the elbow.
Xenophon, speaking of
as
\\
long enough
were
hot and
Anglo-Saxons wore
gloves
their being mentioned
in
of
as
while
present.
earlyChristian Church glovesplayed
In
magne
Charlean
a.d.
important part.
790
unlimited
ing
huntof
an
right
granted
and monks
of Sithin,so
to the Abbot
that the skins of the deer they killed could
be
in the
used
of
manufacture
gloves,
and covers
of books.
In some
cases
girdles,
it was
commanded
that the
clergy should
(sLove
with bone
the
romance
In
H"NRY
meat
others
gather from
law
first
the
the
That
times,
pre-historic
of
France, Belgium, and
ample proof of
hand,
article of dress is of great
the fossils of the
among
cave-dwellers
handle
than
her hand.
that cheek."
"
glove
THE antiquity,
and
Shakespeare.
"
his
impede
work.
weather
Varro,
an
need
ancient
gathered with the
naked
hand are
preferableto those plucked
in gloves;"and Atheneus
speaks of a glutton
who
wore
gloves at table so that he might
writer
says:
"
"Olives
of the
H6NRY
Nil)
the Sacrament,
gloves in administering
writer in the "Antiquary" states:
It was
for
always looked upon as decorous
the laityto take off their gloves in church
ecclesiastics alone might wear
them.
where
It was
perhaps regarded as a proof of cleaq
wear
and
"
a
"
26
EVOLUTION
THE
hands, for
law
gloves."
this
to
courts
the
In
for the
was
Those
day persons
compelled to
are
of
the Church,
William
a
glove.
our
chivalry it
ing
bless-
usual
was
in
success
with
for
in
gloves
of
also meet
we
COARY
to
sum
those
QueeNofScoT^
the
servants
who
gloves as
Shakespeare often
assert
that
he
was
the
knights
their
In
term
for
old
turies
cen-
days
to
helmets,
of
wear
as
a
records
"
glove money,"
they were
their livery,
and
with which
of
the
attended
funerals with
some
in
arms.
paid
to provide this portion
till quite recentlyit was
Of
it has
d'amour
gage
esteemed, and
their ladies'
talisman
a
(SLOVe
un
vice
Ser-
gloves they wore.
preserved
Wykeham
of
As
been
the
on
FASHION.
their
Consecration
ancient
Bishops of
invoked
in
sworn
remove
OF
custom
to
weddings
present
and
souvenir.
a
mentions
the
gloves, and
a
glover.
of
son
belonged to the dramatist is
They are of brown leather,
with a stamped pattern, and are
ornamented
edged with gold fringe. They were
presented
poration
by the actor Garrick to the Mayor and CorA
pair which
stillpreserved.
of Stratford-on-Avon
commemoration
at
New
the
College, Oxford,
sacred
ecclesiastical
with
adorned
are
in
monogram
red
at
the Shakespearian
in 1789.
with
silk, and
often
gloveswere
rated
lavishlydecojewels,and were
embroidery and
bequeathed by will with other valuables.
forbidden
to wear
Formerly judges were
gloveswhen engaged in their official duties,
but are no longer bound
by this restriction,
and
receive
as
a
memorial
of
(thatis,when there are
tried)a pair of white
kid
duringthe
time
and
sheriff,
their
duration
glove outside
was
the
no
a
maiden
assize
prisonersto
gloves from
fairs
marked
were
be
the
held
by hanging
a
long as it
remained
in the place were
there all persons
from
arrest, but
directly it was
exempt
it was
removed
the signal for closingthe
end.
at an
was
fair,and the privilege
Throwing down a glove was
regarded as a
challenge to combat, and this curious old
in the
is still retained
custom
English
coronation
also
were
Kings
ceremony.
invested with authority
by the deliveryof a
town
hall.
As
OLOve
OF
QueeweuzABeTN.
Many royal gloveshave found a place in
privatecollections. Henry VI.'s glove has a
of tanned
and is
leather,
gauntlet,is made
the hawking glove
lined with deer-skin,and
of Henry VIII. is another interesting
relic pf
THE
bygone age. The
Charing Cross, and
in
after this monarch's
death
King kept
a
his hawks
the inventories
we
read
of
at
taken
"
three
gloves,with two lined with
payre of hawkes'
velvet ;" and again at Hampton
Court
there
"seven
hawkes'
gloves embroidered."
hawking glove,of which an illustration
is given, may
be seen
in the Ashmolean
Museum.
It is of a simple
tended
character, evidently inwere
The
for
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
27
is every
sometimes
there
romance,
that^they have
sinister motives,
not
were
worn
after the
during
the
but
sixteenth
and
centuries
their
gradually extended
the middle
classes.
Elizabeth's
may
Library, Oxford,
believed
have
to
and
been
white
leather
Anne,
worn
and
cuff is lined with drab
Mary
glove
of
Queen
the
in
Walden
silver wire
different
lined
and
colours.
crimson
with
lace enriched
is connected
with
Scots'
of
(""LOVG
silk of
jAroesi.
is
bands
of
Suede
-
satin
hand,
decorated
kid, with
on
the
three
loops
of rose-coloured
ribbon, to
be slipped
allow them
to
the hands.
over
They are
further enriched
with gold
lace and
embroidery, A
Court
yellow Suede
glove
of George IV. gives the
impression that the first
gentleman of Europe had
satin,edged with gold
sequins,and the opening
with
of
gauntlet,and
the
It
other
highly
gloves
lightbuff leather,wrought
with
scaffold
raised silken flowers
silk.
is
the
cream-coloured'
the
on
wore
Saffron
Museum
on
ered
gauntletembroidsilver and
edged
silver fringe. Queen
with
is
worked
gold thread,
I.
of
with
the visit of the Virgin
Queen to the Universityin
1566. It is fringed with
gold,and is nearly half a
yard in length; it is made
with
a
silk.
kid, the
at
of
Charles
is made
be
Bodleian
the
at
to
Queen
glove
satin, with
red
They
finished
with
are
gold
and have three loops
fringe,
A
the side.
at
glove of
chaste
worn
by
design,
generally
till
by women
Reformation;
seventeenth
seen
crimson
lining of
Gloves
with
used
a
on
ornament.
use
been
largetrade was done at
time
in
one
poisoned gloves, delicately
perfumed, to conceal their deadly purpose.
the property of
Some
gloves which were
James I. are of brown leather lined with white,
with silk and gold
and
the seams
sewn
are
thread.
The
embroidery
is in gold and silver thread
as
rather than
use
believe
to
reason
finished
Queen
Victoria
gloves, except
white
glac^
fist
a
of
tremendous
proportions.Her Majesty
kid
black
generallywears
for
kid
Court
gloves
functions,when
are
invariably
with lace insertion.
This glove was
presented used.
Her Royal Highness the Princess of Wales
morning of her execution to a member
with tapering
of the Dayrell family,who
in attendance
hand
was
has a delicately-formed
Her
In
at
her size is six and a-half.
and
Fotheringay Castle.
happier days
fingers,
embroidered
Queen Mary gave an exquisitely
Royal Highness adapts her gloves to the
is always bten
and
pair of gloves,with a design in which angels' occasion
toilette,and
on
the
heads
and
flowers appear
her own
Lord
Darnley ; and
"
her husband.
the
generallyof
than
ornate
on
the
were,
those which
of
eve
in most
Though
Tudor
the
the
work
the
"
to
gloves
more
period were
adorn beauty'shands
nineteenth
century,
and
wrought with the needle.
of
historyof gloves savours
cases,
gante.
impetus to
Napoleon gave an
of industry by insistingon
gentlemen wearing gloves on State occasions
the fashion
festive gatherings,and
and
at
spread through the countries of Europe with
The
this
first
branch
rapidity.
astonishing
Chapter
IV.
CURIOUS
FOOT-GEAR.
FOOT-GEAR.
CURIOUS
A
tasteful
slipperis
soul's
my
WELL-SHAPED
A
foot
from
has
the earhest
kindest
Nature's
''^
Fazio,"
been
times
gifts,and
the sway of Cupid),
fallen under
had
energeticlady engaged the services of a
neighbouring friar,and cut the gordian knot
by marrying her faithful adorer.
first conceived
the
When
primitiveman
who
delight."
Mil man's
"
31
IV.
Chapter
"
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
this
sidered
conone
of
sober
have combined
to give
interesting
particularsrespecting
many
this portionof the human
The
anatomy.
historyand fairylore
idea
us
defend
the
producing
of
himself
from
sand
heated
of
contrivance
some
to
cold, sharp stones, or
the desert,his first effort
of his feet soles
sexes
to fasten to the bottom
similarityof the foot-gear of both
was
it impossible to
makes
the
treat
matter
were
of bark, wood,
raw
or
hide, which
the subject is practically followed, in due course,
and
as
by more
elaborately
separately,
of
leather.
These
tanned
sandals
inexhaustible,I propose
made
only to illustrate the
curious and notable examples.
fastened in various ways, but generally
most
were
One of the finest collection of shoes in the
the instep,
round
by two leathern straps, one
is that at the Cluny Museum,
the first and
world
Paris, while the other passed between
formed by the eminent French engraver, the late
second
times
sometoes.
Egyptian sandals were
sionally
JulesJacquemart. This was enlarged by the
prolonged to a sharp point,and occamade
of papyrus,
or
some
were
purchase of the collection of Baron Schvitter.
kinds
The
Queen of Italyhas also acquireda large flexible material ; but the commoner
of historical
number
to
Mr.
Joseph
collector, I
boots
indebted
am
shoes ; and
and
enthusiastic
another
Box,
for
some
of the
this article.
drawings used for illustrating
A
book,
quaint story is told in a rare
entitled
"The
Delightful,Princely, and
EntertainingHistory of the Gentle Craft of
Crispin,the Patron Saint of Shoe Makers,
and
his Brother
Crispianus," According to
this authority,
the two sons
of the
they were
King of Logia (Kent),and lived in the city
of Durovenum,
otherwise Canterbury, or the
Court
of
the
Kentish
men.
Having
embraced
during the Roman
Christianity,
in considerable
invasion, they were
danger,
and
their
at
their
mother's
to conceal
instigation,
identity,
adopted
devoted
themselves
shoemaking,
at
themselves
under
to
the
Faversham,
for
seven
to
humble
the
attire,and
modest
craft
of
maker
auspices of a shoewhom
they bound
years.
This
industrious
citizen appears to have received the appointment
of shoemaker
of Maxito the Court
were,
as
they
had
rule,of wood
a
who
was
thus
Owing
to
their
habits
customs
and
shoe
a
shoes
classes, while
compelled
will
It
sandals
work
to
be
boots
gold
soldiers
similar
wore
iron
manner
to
to
as
give the
scalingwalls
An
with
Christians.
iron
foot.
bare-
sketches
that
they
of
ally
eventu-
dress,
leg with lacings,and
the top
of
senators
a
crest
of
the foot ; and
shoes, heavilyspiked,in a
used for cricket,
now
those
wearers
a
better hold
when
in the attack of fortified
boot
As
was
an
also
used
instance
for
of the
places.
torturing
luxury so
of the age, it is stated that
soldiers often had the spikeson their
characteristic
Roman
on
upper
those
the
of
silver
or
and
that
went
The
in different ways.
black
leather,with
ornamented
had
foot
by
article of
elaborate
an
the
to
the
to
slaves
shoes
sandal
a
used
from
Roman
and
The
concluded
were
and
;
seen
and
became
bound
both
been
probably confined
were
Grecian
proximity,the
Egyptians
denotes
it has
and
;
the
respects similar.
were
same
so
of
in many
Hebrew
word
Jews
and
enemy,
Often
effigyof the
trodden
literally
the
underfoot.
wearer's
minus, whose
daughter Ursula fell in love
Crispin. After removing the usual
obstacles (which,even
in those remote
times,
obstructed
to have
the paths of those
seem
leather.
or
them
painted upon
THE
shoes
made
of
F. VOLUTION
gold. According to
JuliusCaesar wore
OF
FASHION.
the day improved
prevailingmode
by stufKingtheir
the precious metal, a fashion emulated
shoes, and twistingthem into the shape of a
by
Cardinal
ram's horn ; the point of which was
attached
Wolsey many centuries after ; and
Severus was
fond of covering his with jewels, to
The
the
knee
common
by a chain.
to attract
the attention of the people as he
the
permitted by law to wear
people were
walked
The
rich
their
shoon"
through the streets.
Emperor
pykes on
half-a-foot,
of Seneca,
the testimony
for
shoes
upon
of
we
find the courtiers of
the
"
Aurelian
citizens
forbade
while
red,
yellow, white, or
shoes, reserving
green
to
men
wear
for
itwas
shapes were
precribed by legal
to
wear
of
ferent
dif-
colours,and
for the easy
worn
usual
shoes
two
be
to
feet
long.
the
During
Plantagenetperiod
men
wo-
enactments
theirs
two-and-a-half
ent
differ-
and
;
and
princeshad
these
colours
foot,
a
nobles
they
often
were
distinguishmentof
slashed
various trades and
upper
surface,
professions. In
the reignof Domi-
show
the
tian, the stalls of
These
shoemakers
hose
were
so
as
numerous
beneath.
by
padded
gored
to
to
bright
were
in the
publicstreets
the
on
seded
super-
large,
a
shoe,
the
over
necessitate
an
foot with coloured
edict
moval.
re-
material,a fashion
for their
Our
own
imported
Italy, and
tors,
ances-
the
Anglo-
from
gerated
exag-
much
as
shoes
Saxons, wore
of raw
cow-hide,
the
as
shoe
pointed
had
been.
to
the
Buskins
were
ankles ; and
hair turned
the
boots,
made
reaching
Those
were
a
kind
while
Middle
of
round
instep.
had
during
of
bands
leather
The
half
man
worn
by the
nobilityand gentry
fastened
with
-
of
of
a
worn
by
the
later of
more
were
in fashion
these
were
that the
pliable
Crusaders
plate
OF
armour.
of the
dignitaries
Those
of chain, and
Very
during the
carried to such
material.
were
DIFFERENT
pointed toes
Middle
Ages, and
a ridiculous length
Church
considered
PERIODS
knee, and were
low shoe,
or
emblem
One
was
the
the
of
of
sions
occa-
State.
also
They were
largelyadopted by
playersof tragedy.
the
They covered
Nor-j
boots
FOOT-GEAR
the
Ages,
generallyon
the
soles of wood,
the uppers
were
of
tissue,
and
used
ecclesiastics
sandal
splendid
ward.
out-
b y
high
tied
on
just below.
the
other
The
hand,
was
sock,
the
comedy.
the greatest follies ever
introduced
sort of stiltwhich
increased
chopine,a
height of
the
wearer.
These
were
first
it necessary to preach against the practice. used in Persia,but appeared in Venice
about
was
However, this did not result in its abolition, the Sixteenth
Century, and their use
THE
EVOLUTION
in the
encouraged by jealoushusbands
keeping their wives at home.
This
of
out
as
hitherto.
than
support
Chopines
hope
desire,
not
realised,as the ladies
was
usual, and
required rather
however,
OF
an
FASHION.
abbot.
It
the Parish
Absalom,
very
the rank
the length determined
ornate, and
of the wearer,
the noblest dames
having them
he makes
inclines
one
say:
^-^^^
Richard
Lion
than when
saw
of
a
He
alludes
general use
ANGLO-SAXON
shoes
for
left and
right foot, when
NORMAN
speaks
he
of
chequered
square
Court
:
"
"
Standing in slipperswhich his nimble haste
Mad
thrust upon
falsely
contrary feet."
The
exercise
GREEK
making
was
monastic
revenues
Abbot
of
priestsof
tanners
in his
of
AND
the
gentle craft
ROMAN
of
era
with
had
enriched
a
lion.
shoes
crimson
of
in
the
Richard
III.
tissue cloth
first
and
with
of whom,
bishopor
is described
which
as
In
his boots
and
the
of
The
were
were
gold
Henry
every
splendid
III.,the royalshoes
MEDIAEVAL
themselves
associating
a
with
of Edward
SHOES.
and shoemakers, not
one
opinion,ought to be made
golden lines,
elaborately embroidered.
shoe-
for a long time carried on
increased
and
institutions,
of the clergy. Richard, the
St. Albans,objected to canons
his
in circles.
SHOES,
AND
in.
of
man
de
his
of
brother John
spotted with
chopine.'"
the
a
Cceur
had his boots
those
altitude
also
the
to
of
stripedwith gold ;
last
you
the
have
shoes.
royal
heaven
I
various
we
descriptions
ladyship is nearer
by
carved
believe in their
to
sources,
"Your
"
tells us,
were
From
-^"2^*^
Hamlet
descriptionof
priestly
origin.
when
them
maker
shoe-
a
of St. Paul's Cathedral,"
half-a-yard high.
fers
reShakespeare
to
Pope
of
Clerk, Chaucer
the windows
which
that
son
leathers of his shoes
the upper
to resemble
"
were
is said, however,
the
elected in 1316, was
in the
at Cahors
; and
John,
went
more
33
were
coronation
covered
gold. Henry
with
VIII.
SHOES.
wearing square-toed shoes,
slashed
with coloured
and
silk,
exposed a portion of the foot. Some worn
by his daughter.Queen Elizabeth,of brocaded
silk,are remarkably clumsy in appearance,
and have lappetswhich
fasten over
the
instep. They form a strikingcontrast
to
were
EVOLUTION
THE
34
those used
the
of Scots
in the
by
(now
William
with
Mary Queen
possessionof Sir James
which
ELIZABETH
QUEEN
are
toes
BOOTS.
S
hay-bands
of kid, embroidered
silks ; the
coloured
OF
OF
somewhat
In
squarer, but
those in fashion
speakingof
covering
must
A.
be
of
the
curious
leg
;
B, BUSKIN
D,
TUDOR
other
other sandal-wisc,as
districts of
some
MARY
CHARLES
L
semble
respects re-
pedal
;
extremities
Ancient
to.
C, PEAKED
works
SHOE
;
BOOTS
MILITARY
SHOE.
articles
cross-bands
for
costume
Russia
and
material
twisted to
a
little
his
sister
Cloth
gold,
dress
AT
USED
THE
NASEBY.
OF
Spain.
with
of
SPURS
AND
BATTLE
and
of the
worn
now
SCOTS.
frequentlymention
hose, socks,
made
of woollen
stockings,which were
cloth,leather,or linen,and held in place by
on
BY
WORN
SHOE
QUEEN
they are
in
Europe, particularly
the present day.
the under
foot-gear,
and
referred
briefly
CHOPINE
in
at
each
in
are
SHOE
the knee, either in close rolls,like the
ostler,or crossing
of the modern
below
unfortunate
Drummond),
FASHION.
OF
are
ordered
Isabel ;
and
broidered
stockings,em-
among
the
by Henry
III.
of
a
woman
THE
in the
mentioned
said
:
**
hosen
Hire
"
EVOLUTION
CanterburyTales," it is
weren
of
fine
scarlet
streite yteyed (tied),and shoon
(supple)and newe."
clocks
In
the reign of Henry VH.
on
cernible;
stockingsare disful
redde,
full moist
Poet
and
the
Laureate
of
OF
FASHION.
made
stockings,
time
she
wore
35
in
England
the
the
and
the invention,in 1599,
of
how
trade, which
an
St.
been
ed
clean-
were
hobbles
as
goes,
With
her
ever
since,
in the
particularly
Midland
blanket
of
shoone
ed
smear-
tallowy
with
counties
England.
Spurs can
traced
is
It
supposed
that hose
of silk
quite
this
A
Spanish
of
hose
father
with
silk
point like
those
cloth.
of
good
of
of
crewel, or
finest
or
were
cloth,
worn
all
of
colours,"cunning-
ly knit and curi- ancient
ously indented in
g,
every point, with
querks,clocks, openseams,
else
shoes"
h, greek;
a, b, c, d, e, Egyptian
i, j, k, l, Phrygian
Majesty
and
everything
states, in the
of Elizabeth,Mistress
Montague,
with
j f, Persian
and
dacian.
;
silk-woman, presented
a
pair of black silk
and
military
gear,
at
of
From
a
spur
the Battle
Naseby, in
as
considerable
paid to this portion of the
indeed,it was more elaborate
was
progress
in armour
attention
now
knit
period spurs
was
soldier's outfit ;
in designthan is
considered
Her
the
reignof Charles I.,
it will
be seen
that,'
made
accordingly."Planche
third year
the
Queen's
sketch
a
the
els
row-
formidable
dimensions.
yarn,
of
a
being fastened
silk, jarnsey,
thread,
and
to
on
shoe,instead
neck, and
spikesof the
were
stockings
worsted
the
screwed
with straps. They
were
long in the
Bess, nether socks
or
15 th
were
of
reign
Queen
the
century spurs
steel
In the
goad,
leathers.
Early in
but
simple
a
fastened
were
with
ing
hav-
any
made
els,
row-
made
a
and
his
never
worn
no
were
pair
ward
Ed-
to
VL,
of
but
Sir Thomas
by
Gresham
enough
purpose.
had
They
ed
present-
was
far
this
for
of the i6th
century.
period,
is
which
country before the
middle
be
the
to
Anglo-Saxon
were
in
unknown
back
ings
stock-
or
on
considerable
success
she
hose,
Her
has
carried
with
:
"'She
weaving
a
cation
indi-
of
boots
of
frame, by William
of
Lee, Master
Arts, and Fellow
lege,
John's ColCambridge,
gave a great impe
tus to the stocking
of
hostess
laudable
desire to encourage
their home
manufacture
her own
example. The Queen's patronage,
of
dress
inn, gives an
that
from
by
ing
king,describ-
this
and
;
others, in the
no
From
a very early
necessary.
have been used by both sexes.
I)
2
36
EVOLUTION
THE
curious
A
beginning
make
custom
of the
their
was
inaugurated by
particularlydeft
set
of
was
with
shoemaker's
tools, mounted
with
strewn
but, like
the
passed
served
as
doors.
A
of
this
protection
a
similar
;
silk,which
period clogs
were
inspire
shoes
to
and
wood,
of
out
contrivance, with
the
ring,leather strap and toe-cap,
is still sometimes
worn
by farm servants, and
is called
form
of clog,
Another
a
patten.
consistingof a laced leather boot with wooden
sole, is extensively used
by the working
in the
of
classes
North
England, and the
gear
sabot, a wooden
shoe, is the ordinary footof peasants on
is well known
It
high
rank
them
in such
almost
the
impossible
walk
to
interesting description
of
women
by compressing
it is afterwards
that
manner
in
and
;
Davis'
of
Empire
China, he relates that whenever
a
judge of
unusual
integrityresigns his post, the people
accompany
of the
with
him
city,where
In
Japan
may
are
the
and
supply
a
pair.
of
even
in
shoes
new
Here
the
our
off
afterwards
are
for
the
served
pre-
his
on
in
one
back,
case
of
only
cost
never
feet
so
own
country.
in
A
so
is
also
are
journey
that
he
need.
finds
common
toe,
great
slippers
a
starting on
rights,and
lefts and
gates
drawn
are
Straw
traveller
a
strap
the
to
of
use.
have
boots
compartment
and
home
Justice.
peculiar wooden
sandal, having
common
worn,
will
Hall
a
separate
in
his
great ceremony,
in the
a
his
from
a
They
halfpenny
those
mities
defor-
China, and
graceful
age
carri-
the shoes
depends so much
worn.
upon
and
stiff ones
to
Heavy
oblige the wearer
If the
plant the foot solidlyat every step.
toes
are
pointed it is at the sacrifice of
very
if the
heels
and
too
elasticity,
are
high the
muscles
in the
ball of the
foot
are
and
little used.
trouble
;
while
with
their
such
conduct
to
enter
in
women
the
in
of
the
in
prayed
followed
Vesta
of Diana,
that
;
ism
heathen-
The
usage.
go barefoot
to
the
of
Temple
;
out
with-
temple
a
rule
same
Crete
at
selves
them-
to
irreverence
of
this
of
for
on.
apartment
classical
obliged
were
Temple
existed
or
things
than
shoes
insult
their
to
Even
instances
affords
Roman
Few
with
mosque,
them.
embroidered
height
the
church,
a
removing
feet
single sole,
disgust
an
pollution
a
the
for
a
rooms
a
out
with-
off.
greater
enter
are
by
replaced
or
morocco
easilythrown
it is considered
and
those
; and
Jupiter
also
this custom.
of the
public removal
giving it to another,
accompanied
words, signifiesa
by certain
of authority or relinquishing possestransfer
sion.
In
East, the
shoe, and
the
sandal
the
of
think
who
Chinese
their feet
deform
a
Continent.
that
to
They
be
slippers,with
are
them
anyone
tion
addi-
not
coloured
of
made
hats.
surmounted
are
could
loose
soon
iron
an
which
have
when
their
remove
and
covered,
fads, it
of
would
considerable
they
were
their craft
of
made
were
head-dress
silver,
boudoirs
feminine
About
away.
used.
These
also
in
implements
other
many
in
all occasions
on
so
being generally shaven,
heads,
always
plained
bitterlycom-
Tradesmen
tables
work
Their
by uncovering
reverence
do
nations
beautiful
a
indicate
feet, and
Western
who
Charlotte,
handling
their
to
fashion
This
Queen
ivory handles.
that
shoes.
in
ladies
for
Orientals
the
at
vogue
century
indoor
own
in
was
present
FASHION.
OF
or
We
told
are
when
her
marry
her, in favour
drew
he
slipper;
shoes
gave up
her second
his
husband,
the
Among
permits
divorces
and
right to
his cousin
his
to
runaway
"
She
was
my
says,
her off."
Again, when
generally
cast
left at the
they denote
engaged, and
venture
or
Ruth
of
case
shoe."
man
a
I have
are
of
his
off
Bedouins, when
another,
marry
spouse,
in the
kinsman
Boaz,
"he
the
into
even
a
of
door
the
that
wife's
master
a
an
apartment,
or
mistress
husband
room
while
does
he
is
not
sees
idea
threshold.
The
the
slippers on
is not
selves,
ouraltogether unknown
among
it is expressed in the
as
homely
man's
in another
shoes ;"
proverb, to stand
into
when
of
or
a
we
coming
speak
inheritance
dead
future
as
stepping into a
man's
Also
in flinging the
shoe."
slipper
after
a
departing bride, signifying that
the
his
the
father
transfers
authority to
the
"
"
husband.
V.
Chapter
BRIDAL
COSTUME.
THE
EVOLUTION
OF
curious
CERTAIN
with
associated
Marriage from
a
dower
of
some
tribes ; the providingof husbands
and wives
for a familyaccording to seniority
(so that
had to
members
younger
souls in patiencetill the elder
the
the
of);
the
her
paying
services
bride's
of
an
possess
ones
were
on
their
posed
dis-
for
equivalent
of divorce.
case
complete outfit
always included
semi- barbaric
or
in
Rich
shawls,fine
dresses, personal ornaments,
very earlyperiod,and
mentioned
the union
may
relations in barbaric
among
of near
been
Ordinance
the
be
others
COSTUME.
have
customs
39
V.
Chapter
BRIDAL
FASHION.
of the
such
and
a
money,
domestic
utensils are
of
in
such
gift. Among
a
tribes the dower
Arab
occasions, and
called
received
the
"five
consists of a carpet, a silver nose
articles,"
and
ring,a silver neck chain, silver bracelets,
camel
a
overtures
are
bag. Matrimonial
generallymade
by the parents of the con-
to
in money
or
festivities
and
father
kind
;
several
over
lasting
often
celebrate
days
nuptials. The
to
acquaint
fact
with
us
that
the
Rabbins
feastingwas
the
days'
seven
pensable
indis-
an
obligationon
married
all
that
the
consigned to
until
band
and
men,
bride
was
not
her
husthe
after
days of feastinghad
were
expired, They
generally spent in the
house
of
the
woman's
father, after which
in
conducted
was
state
to
home.
her
When
was
in the
husband's
the bride
vities
widow, the festi-
a
three
she
great
only lasted for
days. Customs
East are perpetuatedfrom
to
another, and
inhabitants
we
of the Orient
MARRIAGE
one
tion
generafind among
the
the same
mode
of
now
life as
PROCESSION
OF
been
concluded,
LEBANON.
IN
the
after all has
bride-elect
has
nally
nomi-
the power, though itis seldom
exercised,
tion
of expressingher dissent before the connecits final sanction.
receives
Among
many
Genesis, differs in few respects from
suffered
that of
BRIDE
partiesin Persia, but
tracting
was
adopted by the patriarchsof old.
descriptionof the wooing of Isaac and
Rebekah, for example, so graphicallytold in
The
A
Bedouin
to
know
tribes
the
until
the
woman
is
not
monies
betrothing cere-
it to her who is to be her
rank
in the
announce
couple of the same
it is too late to negative
then
Handsome
and
husband,
present day.
presents, consisting
of jewels,apparel,"c., are presented to the
the contract, but she is permittedto withdraw
a
young
woman
and
her
"and
family,
form
part of her
from
her
husband's
tent
the
day
after her
marriage, and
which
to
return
to
her
father ; in
is
formallydivorced, and
On
regarded as a widow.
she
case
henceforward
is
the
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
40
Various
materials
employed in their
necessarilyrare, silver
less so, while others are composed of amber,
and beads.
coral,mother-of-pearl,
Rebekah
We
are
told, when
approached
manufacture
of the
different
religions
Syria,Persia,and India, the
bridegroom,in
in
some
a
near
the bride
person, bringshome
other countries this duty devolves on
and
relative,
receive the
lady on
but
sources,
to
EGYPTIAN
BRIDAL
circumstances.
bridegroom
COSTUME.
bride
of
value
her
Arab, as
the
ornaments
bases her claim
consideration
to
Eastern
;
and
bride
though
is
goes
gather
the
to
the
he
has
home
richly
honour
wife
arrived.
In
often
The
have
but
same
to
the
form
of
the
usual
un-
up
They
sole
are
for
not
special
is usual
as
nations,
Western
used
on
reaching
and
occasions,
among
but are
is not
woman's
treasured
own
several
wear
elbow.
wealth,
and
their
arm,
a
enings,
fast-
no
open
by
compress
elasticity.It
the
leg
bracelets
enormously
thick, and
to
his
and
and
ornaments
are
as
be reflected
may
himself
upon
circumstances.
as
part of
daily costume.
FESTIVITIES
AT
AN
EASTERN
in
Jews
when
MARRIAGE.
his
in procession
Western
procession usually walks,
possible,that
as
the
Mosque
a
his
decks
to
various
indications
that
returns
rule,cares
little for his own
dress,
the
home
at
From
these methods, according
Again, in Egypt the
expected,and
after she
Asia
remains
from
particularly
Scripture,we
may
employed either of
ANCIENT
he
her arrival.
:
if
the
bride's future house
the
covered
partially
and
Eastern
mounted
a
great distance
no
in
she is often
cases
and in Central
a canopy,
it is the rule for her to be
by
Asia
on
is at
In such
town.
same
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
mule,
mare
ass,
camel,
or
and
FASHION.
here
find
we
described
41
as
the
Egyptianbride's
gloriouswithin
"all
and
dress
wrought
of needlework."
Both
gold, a raiment
dress, and
expressions refer to the same
embroidered
was
imply that the garment
with figures worked
with threads
of gold.
The
famous
for
their
Egyptians were
of
embroideries, and
mummies
some
have
been
mented
wrapped up in clothing
curiouslyornawith gold lace.
At the present day,
both in Egypt and
Western
Asia, it is usual
for ladies of the highestrank to employ much
of their time in working with the needle linen
and cotton
tissues in gold and
silver thread
found
and
silk of different colours.
The
were
is of great antiquity.
of nuptialcrowns
Among the Greeks and Romans
they
chapletsof flowers and leaves,and the
use
modern
A
GREEK
a
of course, depends on
Music
those married.
and
often
palanquin. Much,
the social
attends
dancing;
the former, and
some
also,at least,in the time of
In
Halhed's
marrying
usage
When,
to
be
translation
in Mr.
Roberts's
reference
is made
the
of
position
such
the
had
Laws, and
employing
BRIDESMAID.
she is carried in
unless
retain this custom,
Greeks
sions,
proces-
Jews certainly
think
the
latter
Saviour.
our
of
the
Gentoo
Oriental
"
to
trations,"
Illus-
the custom
ot
sister first,
and the same
with regard to the brothers.
elder
is observed
in India, the elder daughter happens
blind, deaf, dumb, or deformed, this
formalityis dispensed with ; and there have
been cases
when
a
wishing to obtain a
man,
in
daughter,has used every means
younger
his power
to
promote
future sister-in-law,
so
the settlement
as
nuptials. Fathers, too,
their powers
to compass
elder daughter, when
offer is made
to
of his
his
will sometimes
own
exert
marriage of the
advantageous
very
the
a
for the younger
It is
forward
one.
generally believed that Psalm
xlv.,
The Song of Loves,"
as
commonly known
was
composed on the occasion of Solomon's
marriage probably to Pharaoh's daughter;
"
"
MODERN
GREEK
BRIDAL
COSTUME.
with
ribbons
lace.
chaplets,decorated
Modern
Jews do
their
marriage ceremonies, and
such
us
since
that
the
they
last
been
have
siege
not
of
use
crowns
and
in
they inform
discontinued
Jerusalem by the
information
The
Romans.
which
the
Gemara
WEDDING
bride's
the
that
metals.
GERMAN,
i6tH
RING,
VENETIAN,
D,
century;
crown
was
is also
There
RING,
of the
precious
mention
of
a
by the
crystal,
made
of salt and sulphur,worn
bridegroom, the salt transparent as
the figuresbeing represented
in sulphur. Crowns
thereon
an
important
play
part in the
of
the
nuptial ceremonies
Church
also
Greek
; they are
still used
by Scandinavian
crown
B,
E,
CENTURY;
MODERN
ENGLISH,
white
enamel
modern
is of
fingerssupport
Italian
other
given,with
mark
intention
the
solemn
it is
which
both
of
a
was
from
which
term
wedding.
have
a
that the
law
as
The
which
nuptialring
size and
but
were
elaborate
now
the
ring.
to
has
a
to
the
at
and
man
so
solid
one
woman
upper
and
the
witness
lower
the
the
ring. When
marriage took
place these
were
joined togetherand used
at the ceremony.
During the
the
the
sixteenth and
it
shall be
of
not
gift.
AN
EASTERN
BRIDE,
ship,
workman-
ordinary plain gold hoop
Shakespearianera
of Lucretia holdingthe dagger,
portrait
wedding ring
be closed
intermediate
of
large
three
customary
and
ones,
Jews
of
a
springor
asunder
betrothal,the
the
of
a
like
these
taking
to
could
appear
It was
break
is used.
A
to
proclaims
of certain value, and must
be obtained
by credit or
Formerly they
as
"wed,"
derive
we
has
also
consisted
pivot,and
parties to
it, a
D
inscription.
The
gimmal betrothal ring
formerlya favourite pattern,
circlets attached
symbol
pledge,or,
called
Saxons
handsome
a
Hebrew
the
covenant
is
A
ark, and
the
the
signifies
eternity,and
keep
is a
Its form
of
diamond.
rose
in raised
bosses, while C is of
F, bearing initials on
vezet, is of
bronze.
was
presents,
completion
the
contract.
of
but
a
peasant wedding-ring B
Jewish wedding-ring,bearing
days
prominent
not
14TH
BRONZE
gold
silver ;
former
the
occupy
does
it
position
now,
did
C, ITALIAN,
ENGLISH
F,
and
in
ring
1706, where
dated
ITALIAN;
1706;
brides.
The
by
a
CENTURY.
17TH
The
beingformed
is
very common
in the illustration of the
Englishwedding-ringE,
BETROTHAL
some
This
two
CENTURY;
17TH
side of the circle
reverse
clasped hands.
shape, and is shown
gives on this subjectis brieflythat the crown
of gold and silver,or
of the bridegroom was
and
else a chapletof roses, myrtle,or olives,
A, JEWISH
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
42
was
common
turies
cen-
tice
prac-
these emblems
to engrave
affection with some
priate
approIt was
motto.
from
Pagan
Rome
nations
ring, as they were
long before there
seventeenth
a
that
derive
the
in their
used
is any
trace
European
weddingbetrothals
of them
where.
else-
of the
In
describing the
bridal
costumes
of
EVOLUTION
THE
nations, it
different
in mind
borne
that
be
distinctly
largemajorityof the
should
a
with which
we
occasions
such
classes wear
on
upper
traditional white satin
the
blossoms
and
orange
ever,
all familiar.
Many, how-
are
preferthe picturesquenational costume
with the land of their birth,and it
has been my principal
object,in selectingthe
make
them
as
to
illustrations,
typical as
possible.
The
Greek
marriage service is full of
the
sketch
gives a
symbol, and
good
associated
idea
bridal
the
of
with
of bride and
in
and
symbol
the
skirt of
crimson
fez
the
"
the
and
forwards,
which
do
dowry
and
the
to
pose and dress at once
and free. Formerly
garment
down
and
given
in
mother
such
an
the
soft
robe, lined
enriched
with
with
Tiny
shades
of red,
industryand
robes, however,
Greece
since the
more
to
the
FORMERLY
BY
GREEK
worker.
been
not
of
BRIDES.
in
of the
home
than
little
her trousseau,
is
veil
curious
fire
lighted
wears,
and
or
by throwingupon
itscented
of
flour,
husband
of
their
on
by sprinkling
couple is consecrated
a
handful
a
saffron,mixed
with
presents his wife with
them
entered
The
hood
girl-
house-
A
missionarythus
rice
Finally, the
a littlegolden
shoulders.
image called talee^ a substitute for
by Indian women
wedding ring,and worn
their symbol of matrimony.
of her
sels.
tas-
marriagesthe
oman
(which is
ample enough, as a rule,to
woman's
a
satisfyeven
passion for dress.
The nuptialstake place in the evening,and
the bride is garbed in virginwhite robes,
figured with a lozenge design. These
ments
garthe giftof the bridegroom, and in
are
she passes from the home
that of her husband.
to
tume,
cos-
composed
oils,sandalwood, incense, and other aromatic
perfumes) is a prominent feature,and the
and
lily
usuallytakes
bride
the native
to
In Hindu
renewed
constantly
canopy
and
of gold beads
strings
)
sacred
the seventeenth
beautiful land
a
Kensington Museum
These
used
WORN
ceremony
species of
a
in addition
beginningof
her husband's
which
India
broidery.
em-
skill of the
the bride
referred to,
it is customary
and
union
Japan, the
chrysanthemum,
in
under
GARMENT
nations
Oriental
perform
to
century.
In
soul.
marriage processions
richlyornamented
by lamps. The
cate
deli-
of two
alreadybeen
and
blue,and
have
and
other
have
by black lines {From South
green, divided
the designand proclaim
form
the
are
The
of
in
stars
to
as
placed together,
graceful
elaborate
side, so
symbolize the joiningof
body
passed
daughter,
example is
yellow silk
the
is thrown
candles
a
to
of
sweets
Rice
the wicks
wedding
white
henceforward
mingle,and
to
often
was
from
a
years.
either
from
as
is
band
hus-
partakeequallyof
coming
paniment
accom-
trimming,it
to
the bitters and
she
service
double
a
butterflyfills the
signifiesthat
they are
coins,
jingling
of the
At
vase.
and afterwards
drinking first,
This draught
the wife.
backwards
gracefully sways
is
ceremony
the other offers it to
and
usual
As
ceremony.
this country are
The
most
felicity.
kneelingcouple,the
the
head-gear of a Greek maiden.
is depicted scattering
She
ancient
rite always
an
corn,
the
conclusion
at
performed
of
in
two-mouthed
vase,
a
holds
colouringrival these
one
signal,
jacket, a
brilliant colouring,
and
it also
conjugal
the marriage
the
of
scene
and
large
a
specialattendants
called butterflies,
two
dress and
part of
solemn
The
insects,which
of
stands
Eve, and the mystic
bridegroom are
their
beautiful
flowers
cedar;
and
stork.
turtle and
the
dwarf
a
Japanese Adam
assembled
are
with
offerings.Near
table, with
the
families
altar decked
an
covered
both
of
gods
embroidered
gold
the
hold
before
43
costume.
is attired in
bridesmaid
The
FASHION.
OF
describes
a
the
as
Buddhist
bride, loaded with jewellery,
richly attired,
accompanied by women
marriage :
"
the
bridegroom
"
The
and
room,
on
the
sat
floor.
down
A
with
number
the
of
THE
44
EVOLUTION
OF
FASHION.
member
then lighted,
and the company
of the family who
can
contract
a
understand
as
we
congratulatedthe happy couple, marriagein the legal sense
and expressed their kind wishes
by blowing it,but all his brothers are accepted by the
husbands.
smoke
towards
them, while a band of string wife as inferior or subordinate
music.
instruments
discoursed
Two
sweet
they are kept well under the
By this means
cushions
were
they
placed before the bridegroom, control of the superior husband, whom
which
sword
was
laid,and food was
on
a
Big Father," and, as a matter
regard as the
candles
were
saluted
and
"
also
them.
near
bound
were
other
with
silken
the
are
hands
the
the
brings the
betel
declared
twain, but
Cherokee
form
simple.
running stream,
most
their
future
should
flow
of
The
emblematic
in
the
and
no
flesh.
The
marriage is perhaps
two
over
join hands
of the wish
the
a
that
aspirations,
channel.
same
A
is the putting
of the Lascars
peculiarcustom
of a ring on
the great toe when
they marry.
Mrs.
has explored Tibet and
Bishop, who
studied the habits and customs
of the people,
informs us that polyandry is favoured
by the
of
women
land
and
that
eldest
country.
son
The
appears
heir
to
of
be the
have
never
their
born
be
may
are
attached
family are
the
to
in concord, and
the
the satisfaction of knowing that
to
work
of
course
average
become
always be
an
they
longer
are
lives, hopes, and
on
bride
of
one
;
seem
who
him.
the whole
women
in the
children
any
soil,and
bridegroom's
after which
contact,
and wife,and
man
as
of the
nut
form,
Thus
was
of incanta-
sort
heads
in close
regarded
accepted by
act
Each
HINDU
are
of
Brief,
ceremony."
marriage indulged
by the people of Borneo.
a
contractingpartieschews
mutters
some
elderlywoman
bridegroom
each
each
of
in
tion, and
to
relative present,
nearest
forms
of
two
This
threads.
performed by the
and
completed
indeed,
the
Next
together,then
widows,
to
someone
"
offspring.
Nature
and
that
work
for
It is the custom
they
can
there
will
them
and
for the
men
PROCESSION.
and
and
of
women
bride
for each
a
her
enters
villageto
of them
to
assemble
with
home
when
a
husbands,
her
present her with three
Tibetan
wife,far from spending
gifts on
personal adornment, looks
ahead, contemplating possiblecontingencies,
and immediately hires a field,the produce of
The
rupees.
these
which
is her
own,
and
The
from
accumulates
that she may
not
year
year,
should she desire a divorce."
to
so
be
less
portion-
of course,
differ materially
tribes,
marriage customs, but some
exchange for the services of the
African
in their
form
woman
the
shape
only
father.
of
are
of
a
On
insisted
on,
present
of
the
West
and
often
cattle to
take
the
the bride's
Coast, in the
neigh-
THE
bourhood
Gaboon,
of
where
EVOLUTION
OF
is
slavedom
recognised,there is an
understanding that
be purchased for a slave bundle,
a wife may
valued
and
at about
^^6 in English money,
FASHION.
45
toilet of
of the
amusing account
bridegroom: "Outside
the mother
to
discovered
the
of
the
his toilet at
a
a
Fernandian
hut, belonging
small
bride expectant, I
soon
happy bridegroom undergoing
the
hands
of his future
wife's
profusionof Tshibbu stringsbeing
round
his body, as well as his legs
fastened
and arms, the anointing lady,having a short
black
pipe in her mouth, proceeded to rub
He
with Tola
seemed
him
over
pomade.
the
of
at
not
anticipation
altogetherjoyous
his approachinghappiness,but turned a sulky
which
then on a piece of yam
and
gaze now
he held in his hand, and which had a parrot's
sister.
A
feather
red
fixed
called
was
its
on
side.
convex
is
Ntshoba,' and
'
This
regarded
a
as
the
protection against evil influences on
borne down
important day. The bride was
and
by the weight of rings and wreaths
Tola pomatum
girdlesof Tshibbu.
gave her
of
the appearance
face, which
her
VEIL
OF
HINDU
BRIDE.
of
excess
reported
there
to
appears
be
youth, beauty, form,
contains specimens of
keeper.
storegeneral
The
slidingscale
no
or
degree.
A
to
as
bundle
every article sold
by
smeared
of
a
exhumed
an
all
was
with
over
What
white
a
a
the classical wreath
from
are
being
paste, the emblem
hideous
of
save
from
race
negro
blue, but
blush
purity."
the
for
modesty,
to
mummy,
white ; not
orange
substitute
for
blossoms, and
most
important features
of
slave bundle
a
Neptune,
a
are
brass
for
making
which
is
article
salt,
current
a
of
merce,
com-
and
a
native
of
or
used
pan
piece
cloth,
manufactured
by
these
for
people
dress
purposes,
from
a
speciesof
palm which
on
grows
the river banks
in
ance.
luxuri-
great
Both
anoint
with
greater
greasy
and
Mr.
stances,
sub-
HINDU
can
be
paid to
an
African
say she looks "fat and shining."
Hutchinson, in his interestingwork,
to
Years
CEREMONY.
MARRIAGE
no
compliment
belle than
"Ten
oil and
palm
other
sexes
themselves
in
Ethiopia,"gives a quaint and
what
a
contrast
cosmetic
skin
upon
peels
which
According
to
must
offered
be
off and
when
displaysthe
the
dusky
it is laid !
Russian
law,
no
man
can
EVOLUTION
THE
46
OF
before he is
marry
eighteenyears of age, or a
she is sixteen ; nor
after he is
she is sixty. Priests are permitted
before
woman
eighty,and
to
marriages without
Secret
once.
marry
witnesses
regarded
are
and
invalid,
as
both
FASHION.
handkerchief,and
the
on
three distinct
are
Norwegian
a
a
wife, she
bringup
Greco
-
ancient
Russian
a
children
any
Russian
the
custom
marriage.
family,and
The
consists
linen, and
silver,
kinds.
dress.
During girlhood, up
is much
of
the
in
a
the
marriage
coiled
tied
time
of
for which
girlsdo
preparatory training,
from
home
to
work,
or
earn
baptized
have
may
of
in the
furniture
unm.arried
an
in
Russia
single plait hanging
shoulders,
braids
cap
the
to
occasion
an
According to
bridegroom presents his
and jewelleryworn
at
from
her
dowry comes
of a complete wardrobe,
peasant class
After
a
usuallygo
solemn
for
foreigner
in writingto
a
herself
she
household
hair
The
has
faith.
bride with the costume
the
be
must
takes
bind
must
the life
one
BRIDE.
bridegroom
If
each
characteristics,
as
particularly
regards
not
and
an
marked
there
persons.
periodsin
and
woman,
confirmation,a
bride
considered
is
symbol of marriage. Marriages
of the
are
performed after banns, and much
fineryused by the lower classes is hired for
the occasion; and
in the
the crowns
used
Russian
are
generallythe property
ceremony
of the Church.
worn
Formerly they were
tinued.
for a week, but this practicehas been disconThere
RUSSIAN
littlelappetof linen rests
inevitable
of
A
a
forehead, and
tied
and
it
round
behind, or
is
the
of all
woman
is dressed
loose
with
arranged
upon
ribbon.
in
head, covered
with
a
cotton
two
with
or
silk
NORWEGIAN
their
this
PEASANT
own
living.Among
their
takes
AND
the
BRIDEGROOM.
poorer
classes
place when
they are
Their petticoats
short and
are
hair is arranged in two
long plaits.
confirmation
they are supposed to
ceremony
about fifteen.
After
BRIDE
THE
regard life
from
to
themselves
engage
according
of
its more
is married
course,
various
stated
nor
that
neither
the
holy
they can
by
contract
bring
show
can
evidence
household.
is
The
ORNAMENT
SWEDISH
PEASANT
BRIDE.
apparel,which
and
wedding day.
bride
At
the
wears
brass
portionis of
Such
the
wear
is
of
plainskirt
with
snowy
linen, a
green,
ornamented
buckles, and
with
is
worn
is
band
and
depending
beaten
its
wears
a
fastened
from
cloth coat
red
three
it
"
in the
of
ages.
It would
therefore
appear
that
and
brides.
bosses,
are
small
ing
bear-
the
too,
He
fashion.
cut
short
buttons,and
black
The
tion
illustra-
heirloom
and
waistcoat
a
and
loose
with embroidered
small
connection
Norway
days, and
trumpets
and
clothes
show
advantage a well-shapedleg,and
the feet are
low
shoes.
Usually
in
as
to
medallion
in
ornamented
festivitiesin
them
trimmed
to
wedding
rim
a
bands
initials I.H.S.
with brass
The
revers.
a
shape
red
used
breast
silver-gilt
probably an
was
from
of
apron
A
hat
bridegroom's
Levites
rial,
mate-
by Swedish
wrought with
sacred
and
a
full sleeves of
with
discs, and
the
the
a
occasion
an
woollen
and
embroidery.
ornament
such
some
white
The
water
for the head.
corselet
a
race,
for all the
on
of
bodice
a
has
centuries
adornment
usual dress
very
a
nomadic
a
fire,air,earth, and
upper
gold,sometimes
family for
same
"
years
performed
as
a sign of
the
uncommon
one
becomes
as
elements
two
is
precious stones.
generallyheirlooms,
are
it is not
brides
A
with
crowns
and
head, and
silver and
embellished
wife
when
It
crown.
fit the
to
a
Jews when
taking of Jericho; and modern
ceremony,
the young
the ceremony
couple go to
they confess their sins announce
the church, accompanied
In ancient
by blowing a ram's horn.
change
by their friends,and exEgypt and other parts of Africa, Jupiter
Ammon
was
worshipped under the figureof
ringsof plaingold
and presents of jewellery a ram, and to this deityone
of these animals
be worn
sacrificed annually. It seems
the
must
to have
on
was
her marriage the peasant
of power
from the remotest
been an emblem
WORN
BY
a
preceded by
among
prominent position. The horn is the
and is often made
use
symbol of authority,
rams' horns
of in Scripture. So much
were
esteemed
by the Israelites that their priests
age
marri-
betrothal
a
take
sufficient
of
becomes
marriage ceremony
priestwearing a ram's horn
office,and,
four
ample
provide for
to
means
merrymaking
bridegroom.
The
later.
tion,
proof of their confirmaand
feasting and
the friends of bride and
fourteen, and
men
enter
can
47
Gipsies are, as a rule,married at a very
earlyage. A girl is generallybetrothed at
it should
women
upon
unless
is much
duties,
third stage,
be
The
life,and
FASHION.
OF
aspect, and
serious
with
their station.
to
EVOLUTION
are
with
a
kept
during the
on
the
peasant
up
time
for
there
A
bridegroom's
toilet
at
FERNANDO
PC.
the
48
EVOLUTION
THE
practice of the gipsy priest wearing a ram's
from
his
a
suspended
string round
neck
from
the
at
marriage is derived
a
undoubtedly points to
highest antiquity, and
the Oriental
origin of the gipsy race.
Various
expedients have been resorted to by
different rulers of sparsely
to
populated kingdoms
horn
ancient
of
not
were
have
to
certain
fixed
of
they
rods
I
at
OS.;
commoners
to
taxed
lower
to
in
and
age.
Bridesmaids
day
only
present
who
married
have
modern
BRIDE.
is
speak,
"
smaller
a
state
a
Dukes,
:
sum,
if
of
and
study
comfort
single
a
encouraged
lottery,and
very
tender
if
out
made
not
they
also, especially those
at
has
of this vital matter
those
marriage
of
quarter
per
Anglo-Saxon times attended
the bride, and
on
performed specified duties,
particularly in the festivities which
usually
followed
such
occasions.
Even
on
during
mean
and
of
1894,95,366
ten
the
by
same
years.
facts, so
assailed
the
the
"Darkest
marriage
that
during
first three
1893, and
for
our
bitter
however,
months
cent,
cry
Spinsterdom."
first
no
of
the
of
the
over
for the
are
need
going
the
increase
an
quarter
of
wonder
is
joined
were
per
9
Figures
ears
to
in
Islands,
who
us
It may,
persons
British
over
year,
rate
know
to
in the
cent,
?
to
woman
complete
beginning
are
giving
fashion,
together
18
who
what
among
and
exhaustive
an
occasion
no
for
is there
rates
marriage
England
in
there
ENGLISH
AN
been
before.
customs
previous
in
the
is considered
women
shilling each,
betrothed
ployed
em-
appropriate to the virgin,
is absolutely dispensed
with
by those
in
in
were
this purpose;
and
of
peers
is
of
accounts
silks
at
white
Of
Widows
were
spiced
brides
of
From
for
high degree and fortune, were
dip again in the matrimonial
children
of kine
for
golden tissues,and
following
remain
blush
coloured
Mary,
the
of lilies not
in bygone
gowns
find rich brocades,
times, we
As
one
blessedness.
of
posset shall be
bridal
sound
reign
were
England
elected
the
and
widowers
prayer
fashion
one.
altars,
songs.
the
as
"
shall
wearing spotless white
a
comparatively modern
beaten
were
to
William
;^i2
The
the
the
to
scornful
late
maiden
right to
the
had
them
with
cream
And
sions,
occa-
then
and
where
the
now
With
festivals, except
women
sweet
said,
excluded
were
lead
Hesperides:"
"
short
be
nor
participation
on
moon
honey-
to
prepare
posset," which
in
A
"
mitted
per-
they occupy
any
or
military post.
public
Herrick
part in
a
government,
from
duty
wine."
the
They
by
to
pany
accom-
their
"benediction
the
present
is referred
century
to
one
on
her
also
was
And
might
civil
it
legacy
Sparta,
Lycur-
any
in
rule
they
gus,
and
couple
bachelor
a
and
the
under
; and
present
for
custom
bridal
the
the
of
portion
common
a
law
the
inherit
whatever,
was
made
that
should
it
In
state.
Rome
forbade
earlier
the
enter
to
men
encourage
married
the
FASHION.
OF
ceding
pre-
vertible
incontro-
longer
be
Chapter
MOURNING.
VI.
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
51
VI.
Chapter
MOURNING
air is full of farewells
"The
And
mourning
the
to
for the dead."
dying
Lougfellcmj.
"
signs of mourning in ancient times
the
confined
to
by no means
apparel. Fasting, laceration of the
flesh,throwing dust on the head, and shaving
THE
were
ANCIENT
outward
and visible signs of
hair,were
accompanied by piercingcries of the
grief,
also
most
heartrendingdescription.It was
rend
abstain
to
the
from
learn that the
to
ornaments,
black
as
to
followed
by
had
the
robes
The
Romans.
of
black
East, made
of
hair,which
has
a
as
A year was
the
usual periodfor
ther,
wife, famother,
ther
brosister,or
was
a
female
;
the
Roman
been
The
LAVING
OUT
MOURNING
AND
THE
another
mourners,
manifestation
by
and
the
the
of
hoods
sorrow
worn
a
"
by
flowinghat-bands
not
accorded
but
tions
rela-
who
had
outlawed,
imprisoned, or
bankrupt,were
DEAD.
the
practiceindicated
band,
hus-
mourninga
ial
coveringof
were
compelled
to
adopt the
symbols of woe.
not
was
it ent
pen
dress
by
head
by
dispensation,
young
for this purpose
Church.
wise
same
but
children
the
upon
skin, and
veils
the
shade;
fect
efirritating
early
of
women
cloth, with
of
put
fabric was, and
is still in the
adopted
chose
fashion
"
This
an
Greeks
cloth.
sack-
of
for
colour
appropriate a
most
filthygarments
on
the
The
garments.
the
ing,
cloth-
and
three thousand
PROCESSION.
mourning
Rome
Egyptians,over
yellowas
selected
ago,
years
FUNERAL
JEWISH
the
customary
for men,
at funerals a few years
so
common
"
In
A
History of ISIourning,"by
ago.
Richard
interesting
Davey, from which many
facts on
this subject may
be gathered,we
this mark
published
certain
mDurners,
includingone
laws
of respect. Numa
the guidance of
for
forbiddingwomen
E
2
THE
52
to
scratch
their
faces,or
EVOLUTION
make
to
an
OF
tional
excep-
display of grief at funerals. The
Emperor Justinian(a.d.537) also turned his
attention to this subject,
and
regulatedthe
funeral ceremonies, so
at
to
as
expenses
those
secure
who
of
calamity
remained
the double
from
losingtheir friends
and,
the
at
FASHION.
were
expected to abstain from going to
and placesof amusement
;
publicceremonies
sexes
and
record
their lords
that
their
to
and
burying
each person free
of cost, and for
before
sunrise,
so
to
avoid
ing
Mourn-
THE
tions.
extor-
MODE
OF
THE
ENFOLDING
DEAD
and
accompanied
the
appropriated for
the purpose.
in the same
those
buried
who
desired
of
purpose
conducted
were
appointed for
be
do
to
by
ments,
inter-
the chief
those
grave, on the
This custom,
All persons
manner;
so
were
though
could, at their
but this
cost, indulge in certain display,
additional
On
limited.
state
was
expense
East, was
and
occasions,as,
for
the
example, on
death
THE
Emperor
nation
or
a
great
the
assumed
defeat, the
sufficient
of
could
be
return
of
a
Private
all
sidered
con-
for
the
prisonertaken
a
in
by
a
son
child,or the
war.
Both
a
were
sent
not
domestic
habit
well
feast
as
was
countries.
consisted
and
derived
was
from
a
of
The
funerals.
common
practice
kept
was
in various
period,
Cup
of
lightrefreshments
tion
Consola-
prepared
by the friends of mourners,
supposed to busy themselves
in
affairs at
such
gives a good
adopted by the
deceased.
of the dead,
Caves
as
well
were
as
of which
sepulchres,
a
idea
the
Jewish,Roman,
in Greek
comparativelyrecent
European
ing
mourn-
the Romans
among
birth of
the
as
events,
daughter,the marriage of
CONSOLATION.
The
broken
certain domestic
or
importance
of this custom.
OF
Catalina,
which
classical ancients,and
the
up to
days followinginterment.
usual feature in
a
among
in her visits to the
mourner
seven
funeral
of
whole
mourning garb.
defeat of Cannae, the conspiracyof
and the death of JuliusCaesar,were
observance
CUP
female
Egyptian,as
The
own
an
took
part in the procession,
from
which
to
as
tation.
osten-
women
Funds
were
their
dead
protectingthe
various
Greeks
The
buried
made
survivors
applied
masters
vision
Prowas
tilla
marry
conduct.
own
their
on
account.
for
to
elapsed from the husband's death,
year
without
the
special permission of the
not
History, however, does
Emperor.
had
bilities
this rule
time, incurringheavy pecuniarylia-
same
allowed
not
were
women
time.
The
who
with
tration
illus-
mourning
immediate
familyof the
used
for the disposal
constructed
elaborately
many
of the
remain
to
this
EVOLUTION
THE
day.
Earth
burial
cremation
carried
One
we
it to
a
to.
to
owe
favour
war
great
the
with
of
state
53
processionswere
magnificent. When
king quittedthis mortal sphere,the temples
for seventy-two days, and there
closed
were
funeral
some
pestilence
The practiceof
Egyptians, who
or
a
sacrifices,solemnities, or
no
were
Companies
perfection.
earliest embalmments
of the
is that
of
resorted
was
embalming
in
was
in time
nations, but
FASHION.
OF
of two
or
three hundred
feasts.
and
men
record
on
Joseph, whose
of
body accompanied
journey through the
He
Wilderness.
was
placed in a cofifin,a
distinction in the East only accorded
to those
of the highest rank, the usual
mode
being
the
to
simply swathe
closely in
corpse
and
bandages, thus retaining the
wrappers
form.
of
human
the
The Jews largely
shape
used
ployed
emspices and perfumes, which were
the
Israelites
both
on
for
their
and
anointing
for
wrappingup
PRIEST
TO
in
women,
WITH
EDGED
DALMATIC
READY
the
paraded
attire
A
FUR,
MASS.
REQUIEM
SAY
mean
WEARING
CENTURY,
lOTH
THE
OF
BLACK
streets,
and
reciting the
singing plaintivesongs
virtues of him
they had lost. They ate
dressed
food
by fire, and
or
no
meat,
omitted
their
Every
favourite
a
mourned
ANGLO-SAXON
the
WIDOW.
to
of the
the
body
very necessary
The
Egyptians,on
climates.
relative
precautionin
a
"
or
sacred
attired
instance),
and
shaved
animal
themselves
off their
the death
(the
in
cat,
Burial
hot
of
a
for
yellow garments
eyebrows. Their
by
clubs
those
member.
and
on
The
the
of
in
day
ful
wonder-
Egyptian monarchs, are
and
industryof
civilization
of
state
high
common
were
heavy
did not
who
the
their works.
Anglo-Saxons, and
on
spent
reverence
nation, whose
is attested to
ings.
anoint-
and
for the death
Pyramids,those
The
monuments
AN
as
child, and
lamentations.
memorials
baths
customary
one
corpse
body
was
attend
was
the
among
fines
were
inflicted
the funeral of
placed on
laid the book
a
of
a
bier,
the
THE
54
EVOLUTION
Gospels,a code of belief and
symbol of hope. A silken or
a
cross
linen
OF
as
mourning
a
pallwas
were
used, according
to
the
the
rank
dead
as
a
rule,though purpleand brown
occasionallysubstituted.
Chaucer, in
The
Knight's
Tale," speaks
"
of
of
son.
perclergy
The
bore
FASHION.
black
lighted
all
ped
drop-
with tears,"
and
tapers
clothes
"
and, again,
of
chanted
the
"
psalter,
the
habit of samite
was
mass
liberal
made
for
in
of
defines
of
widow's
HIRED
The
gown
is
evidently of
with black and
cloth,trimmed
fur; and a gauze veil of the same
present
day are a symbol.
mourning adopted by Katherine
Valois, wife of Henry V., the hero of
Agincourt,who
The
of
tint
From
the
envelops the head.
a
drawing of an Anglo-Saxon
of his wearing a
priestis given,on account
black dalmatic, edged with fur,a vestment
a
was
requiem mass
only adopted when
formed.
per-
died
source
Ages
black
was
used
Vin-
at
in 1422,
cennes
be
may
regarded
cal
typi-
the
as
widow's
dress
Middle
a
weeds
the
MOURNERS
woollen
the
to
year
the nun's dress,
which
the
the
mourning habit
of that period.
a
when
convent,
she
assumed
National
In
of
husband,
the wife retired
Library, Paris,
is givena sketch
which
clearly
same
death
her
9th
a
the
sombre
s
on
cases,
the
the
century MS.
black
c
w
In
many
offering
poor.
From
white
o
brown."
formed,
perand
a
to
id d
w
for
that
of
period. It
sisted
con-
of
black
a
brocade
hardi,
cote
with
edged
white
fur, and
embel-
further
with
glass
which
widow's
MOURNING
IN
SACKCLOTH.
dk
dress
valois,
of
in
queen
the
katherine
year
1
42
2
THE
for
ornamenting
the
Her
black
gown
Some
woollen
of white
fur.
COSTUMES
head
winged
BY
WORN
OF
EVOLUTION
dress.
Planche
tells
allowed
sixteen
KING
a
PHILIP
II.
OF
OF
Westminster
They
represented in
are
are
(or mourning
Liber
fourteen;
with
furred
a
viscount, twelve;
and
Hoods
of his son,
his
for
himself
funeral
the
of
the
At
Earl
others
attired
and
present
of
for
clothed
of
mourninge."
shall have
with
France,
of
himself
the
century, it was
considered
necessary
to
pass
mourning
owing
to
of
the
the
to
"
behynde,
of
They
and
with
The
a
is
queen
surcotte, with
the traynes
as
aforesaid,
playne hoode, and
a
tippet at the hoode
good length
lying a
tuary
sump-
laws,
in
nobility
men
wo-
and
in
gance
extrava-
wear
of
tyme
their surcottes
mantles
their
the
of
the
trayne before and
traynes.
end
fifteenth
England
a
another
Cyprus
in black
mourning.
At
the
in
"
apparell
estates
great
were
;
gowns
death
of
the
on
the
for
of
reformation
in black
John, King
the
King
ordinance
an
Flanders, all the nobles
and
mitted
per-
above
King Henry
the
VII., issued, in
eighth year of his reign,
hold
house-
in black.
those
of
mother
clothed
his
and
only
were
Richmond,
of
close
and
shaved,
same
duke.
a
degree of esquireof
king'shousehold.
Margaret, Countess
hearing
was
the
to
the
the death
baron, eight;
a
had
the
Gaston, sent
barber, ana
FUNERAL
privilege as
ermine.
Foix, on
earl,
an
all inferior persons,
two
archyards only; but an bishop
Earl
of
THE
AT
Froissart relates that the
of
marquises were
sloppes
their gowns,
and mantles;
cassocks)
knight,six ;
fabrics in the vailing
prefashion,and are
black
and
yards for
FATHER.
HIS
a
dukes
us
ATTENDANTS
HIS
AND
SPAIN
a
splendid
Regalis,"stillpreservedin
Abbey.
composed of
"
55
ing
deep bordermourning habits of
has
PROCESSION
this period
manuscript
FASHION.
gentleman's
MOURNING
HENRY
"
VII.
TIME
upon
the
trayne of the
mantell,being in breadth
inche.
the superfluous usage of
a
nayle and an
the
hood
to
of
cloth and
a
other items at funerals.
After the firstquarter
Habits
year,
with
furred
and liveries were
limited to certain quantities. be lined with black satin, or
ermine
a
all ladies down
; and
baroness, are
and
EVOLUTION
THE
56
to
be barbed
to
the chin."
at
barbe, and
trayne, hood,
with
to
similar
wear
OF
the
time
lasted for three days, by which
the
degree of
for a simple interment
were
niourninge, arrangements
Thesurcotte,
ently
completed, and the body was
placed reverin the ground. The obsequiesof kings
tippet,are
visible in the sketch
of
century, taken
Pietro Vercellio's famous
work
cloth and
of
the
all classes,and
royal rank.
over
a
a
waxen
funeral customs,
may
Crier, the lying-instate
the
of
effigies
waxen
Before
Crier, armed
for the Death
a
carried
were
ing
gentleman'smourn-
newspapers
published obituarynotices,it was
in
however,
queens,
protracted period, consequently
Death
of
attired
and
fur,is reproduced from
the obsolete
be mentioned
those
the sixteenth
MS.
contemporary
Among
lady of
a
The
costume.
on
of black
a
from
FASfffON.
black
with
with
customary
a
livery,painted
skulls
and
bell and
or
broidered
em-
cross-bones,
to
townspeople,and inhabitants
that another had gone
of surroundingvillages,
the majority. This functionarywas
to
over
announce
to
the
widow's
GERMAN
DRESS
figure was
prepared, which
regal robes, and substituted
soon
decomposition
as
in
was
Mary,
vogue
and
in
useful
as
till the
set
TO-DAY.
OF
the
in.
time
in
dressed
was
for
This
body
fashion
William
of
as
snd
Westminster
Abbey there is a
collection of waxen
which
be
effigies,
may
viewed
As likenesses
by permission of the Dean.
and
they are interesting,
they are also
Of
has
for the
FRENCH
LADY
OF
widow's
i6th
CENTURY
the
sex,
black
present
religiousemblems.
takes
insolvent,his
who
often
hat-band
widow
a
man
may
selves
them-
content
and
of dark-coloured
law, whether
employ of the Corporation,or civil
and on the death of a member
authorities,
of
the Royal Family,he was
usuallyaccompanied
by the Guild of Holy Souls, who walked in
procession,bearing lightedtapers and other
Lying-in-state
usually
a
the left sleeve
Scotch
in
male
with
IN
weeds.
studies.
costume
late years, in this country, mourning
been considerablymodified, particularly
another
on
clothes.
dies
claim
By
solvent
out
of
or
his
estate, sufficient for mourning suitable to
her rank, and the same
privilege
appliesto
each of her children,
who are old enough to be
at
their father's funeral.
precedence over
This
any debts the dead
right
man
THE
have
may
is
and
contracted,
accorded
not
English,
to
EVOLUTION
OF
distinction
a
Welsh,
widows.
In
colour
for
of
parts
the
mourning
globe
THE
brown,
and
custom
the
These
shades
following
reasons
gloom
have
which
are
of
in
yellow,
red,
have
prescribed
one
is
and
are
white
nearest
express
and
dearest
sorrow
are
mixed
body
for
the
symbolical
when
is
WIDOW
taken.
with
of
the
royal
the
forms
typical
of
the
earth
the
to
royal colour,
a
OF
TO-DAY.
mourning
the
for
for
used
DRESS
S
high dignitaries
also
Violet,
of
spirit
the
is
the
follows
tint
the
brown
and
returns.
used
which
hoped
Yellow
leaf,
generally
and
of
Church.
kings
Scarlet
ally.*
occasion-
mourning
of
those
*
who
the
it ii
flight.
autumn
which
light
Blue,
which
to
taken
dead
the
mourning.
ENGLISH
selected
is
"
surrounds
the
death.
been
Black
is
though
57
alone
of
CRIER.
garments
emblem
:
;
white,
DEATH
blue
even
as
black
countries
European
most
different
the
night
heavens,
accepted
by
white
and
Irish
or
FASHION.
Black
hope,
from
to
For
permission
Davey's
Messrs.
"
Jay,
to
History
Regent
some
reproduce
of Mourning,"
Street,
London.
of
I
the
drawings
am
indebted
Chapter
VII.
FXCENTRICITIES
OF
MASCULINE
COSTUME.
VII.
Chapter
"
fashion
The
out
wears
"
tattered
Through
small
gowns
hide
thy
'ANITY,
^v
clothes
furred
and
Robes
vain
as
how
by
few
of them
whether
the nobles
at
less
defence-
our
to
sider
con-
from
altogetherfree
that
from
exempt
or
of
love
dress
which
they
stronglycondemn
so
this
and
the
lime.
Their
respect,
sketches
the
trating
illus-
this chapter
only give a
what
becoming
manly form
In
epochs.
Celtes,"
toire des
BRITON
IN
CLAD
SKINS.
"the
ancient
inhabitants
toilet of
Britain,somewhat
of
that of the
North
body,
intended
used
means
for it
which
were
no
doubt
the
sembled
re-
Indian
American
of the present day, and consisted of
of elaborate paintingsover
the whole
of the
that
learn
we
a
surface
originally
mencies
skin, from the incleafterwards
of the weather, but were
as
of
was
forbidden
mode
a
embellishment
of
the
distinguishing
reserved
to
slaves.
and
of
and
they
armed
were
impleof
ents
bone
and
flint.
The
Tyrian tra
ders
taught
to
how
construct
various
weapons
from
war
of
a
composition
a
different classes,
copper
tm, and
their
flat
and
briton
at
the
of
time
roman
the
invasion.
wicker
shields
were
superseded by
with
the
Conquest
Roman
of
those
of metal
circles.
concentric
ornamented
After
Britain, the
laid aside for
skin
tunics and
dyed
garments were
the tunic was
Over
freemen, and strictly close trousers.
named
The lower classes conshort cloak, so
or
sagum,
to
the
the tone
of
series
protect the
to
charms
other
irresistible to
killed
them
His-
"
Pelautier's
remote
in the chase,
m
different
at
their
Our
ing
clothwas
with
sidered
con-
ate
appropriand
to
word,
ancient
mals
skins of ani-
of
the
an
by deepening
period),
naturallyruddy locks, by washing
their
of
with
for
to
from
doubtless
some
been
added
also
were
remark
Britain,were
painted.
signifies
in
faint idea of
of
decorations,hence
pictorial
derived
boiled
chosen
has
name,
water
purpose
will
their
them
anomalies
in
their
costume
reveal
curious
for
as
upon
Picts,who
The
belles of that
requirea deep
tory
study of the histo
the north
able
(which
looked
be
this may
family arms."
inhabited
ancestors
not
of
a
with
picti^which
It does
in others.
at
other; but
each
from
the
had
persons
and
costume,
the originof
yet
:
moment
a
"As
masters
designs drawn
small
to
distance
privilegeof ornamenting
large figures,chiefly of
their
to
animals, subsequently transferred
shields, after they adopted a less scanty
their
similar
and
and
for
are
weakness
this human
appear,
King Lear.
woman,"
is
hurled
pause
considerable
"
woman,"
they
Nothing.
vices do
teachers
our
about
all."
name
a
are
epithets,
heads
Ado
Mtuh
fined themselves
the man."
apparel than
more
"
COSTUME.
MASCULINE
OF
ECCENTRICITIES
6i
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
worn
by
a
the
THE
62
from
Romans
which
head
saicya word
skin
signifieda
it
covered
was
British
or
Celtic
of
hide.
with
was
EVOLUTION
a
origin, tomb
When
the
from
cap,
FAS
OF
HID
.
and
golden apples
pearls." From
with
the
"embroidered
Ironside,was
of Edmund
with the likeness of
this,we
see
mented
orna-
that
its circular
the needle
hut, which, from
played an important part in the
and to it we
of clothing,
also
resembled, for the dwelling- ornamentation
shape,it somewhat
cab,
a
the splendid Bayeux tapestry, worked
the Conqueror.
by Matilda, wife of William
able
This
pricelesscuriosityis not only remarkas
a magnificentpiece of workmanship,
but affords a good idea of the dress of that
period the nth century. A tunic reaching
the ankle, leg bandages and
to
shoes, a
the chief
flowing mantle and flat cap, were
placeswere
composed of wattles firmlyfixed
in the ground and
fastened
togetherat the
owe
"
of the civil dress
characteristics
succeeding reigns.
of this and
Normans,
however,
clean-shaven.
were
During
in
Handsome
several
Men
the Middle
both
furs
Ages extravagance
female
vailed
pre-
male
and
were
in great request, and
costume.
times
wore
dress, the
laws
were
passed.
sumptuary
eight indispensable articles of
shirt,breeches, stockings,shoes,
coat, surcoat
dress.
The
or
with
was
The
cotehardie,mantle, and
coat
the tunic
entirelyhidden,
under-dress
or
of
the
with
the
head
sponded
corre-
ancients,and
exceptionof
CANUTE.
top.
A
curious
horn-like
cap
children.
hair
The
flowing.
allowed
of this fashion is the
remnant
still made
of rushes
of rank
Men
the
by Welsh
usually long and
was
moustache
shaved
to
the chin
to
grow
and
ordinary
extra-
an
length.
The
and
Saxons
Danes
spoken of as
fine linen,"
and the latter combed
their hair once
a day,
bathed
once
a week, and
frequentlychanged
their clothing. By these means
they found
wearers
favour
"
of
are
scarlet,purple,and
in the
eyes
wives
the
of
the
and
and
women,
daughters
of
lighted
dethe
nobility. In a curious MS., written in the
is reprereignof King Canute, the monarch
sented
in
with
cords
tunic
a
and
stockings are
and
The
embroidered,
he
ordered
to
be
NORMAN,
FROM
BAYEUX
TAPESTRY.
tops
but
of
he
his
wears
the sleeves,by the surcoat.
There
two
were
kinds of mantles, one
open in the front,the
sides connected
two
by a strap restingon the
A vestment
simple leather shoes.
presented
to
of silk, chest,the
by Canute
Croyland Abbey was
with golden eagles,and the rich
embroidered
and
had
pallwhich
THE
embellished
mantle
tassels.
WILLIAM
laid
over
the
shoulder.
other
one
Head
was
end
on
open
thrown
the
over
coveringswere
rightside
the
left
of various
THE
descriptions
; but
long points,which
to
the belt when
adopted
many
used
were
to
hoods
with
them
attach
The assembling
use.
II.
reign of Richard
and
lay, spiritual,
legal peers in
gives the
in
not
of Parhament
in
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
the
which
by
all classes.
them
as
the
be
could
folds.
Some
usual
costumes,
is reproduced from
"
Planche's
History of
feet,others
slits. Hose
British Costume."
these
Bishops
coifs
Westmorland
in front.
Duke
the
of
in
graphic
apparel of
his
dyer,
and
are
tapestry
worker,
the
wealthy burghers
seated
the
City
of
II.,
clothed
which
lasted
over
(1377
to
attire.
The
shoes, chained
not
knee, were
deep, wide
the
temporaries.
con-
of
London,
in
and
all
of the
were
and
livery,
a
twenty
the
1399),
knives, pouches, and
ornamented
were
girdles
with silver. The clergy
curious
many
in
masculine
were
fashions
GENTLEMAN
peaked
more
sleeves
14TH
OF
THE
were
CENTURY.
handles
not
the
to
other
bury
Canter-
haberdasher, carpenter,
reign
years
there
"
"The
opposite
judges.
During
Richard
the
manner
weaver,
peers
and
mottoes
wrote
towards
Hereford, in high cap, is
to the left of the throne,
and
Exeter, Salisbury,
other
also in favour, and
the edges
were
Richard's
of
reign, describes
most
full of
they were
of different colours.
with
"
Tales
stand
The
suits
Chaucer, who
end
the
and
Northumberland
often
were
frequentlyscallopedat
devices.
Earls
in their
away
reached
to the
and
the knee, and
to
were
and
robes, the
furred
hidden
wide
embroidered
and
cowls
a
bagpipe and were
Many writers refer to
whatever
as
receptacles,
was
were
Parti-coloured
throne, the
in
judges
of
in
are
the
devil's
stolen
and
The
like
shaped
were
worn
their
near
63
of
to
be
from
ridiculous
commonly
than
called
the
and rode
laity,
pokeys, gold,in gowns
on
their
A
CAPUCHON
HOOD,
OR
TIME
tinguished
dis-
OF
EDWARD
the
II.
with
horseback, glittering
of scarlet and
cut
green, fine with
work.
Their
mitres embellished
with pearlslike the
head of a queen,
and
staffs of
cious
pre-
metals
with
set
jewels."
the
parish
Even
clerk is said to be
"
and
spruce
pish
fop-
in his dress."
The
author
of
called
an
work
anonymous
the
"
Eulo-
gium,"of this date,
says
"The
:
"
moners
com-
sotted
be-
were
in
Some
apparel.
in
wide
reaching
loins, some
PARLIAMENT
ASSEMBLED
IN
THE
REIGN
OF
RICHARP
IL
garment
of
excess
surcoats
to
their
in
a
reaching
THE
64
to
their heels,closed
at
the sides, so
men
hke
seem
before
that at
name
and
Their
the end
Towards
hoods
chins.
the
pipes (tippets)pass round
before,reach
hanging down
heels."
dress ; in fact,our
and
feminine
modern
certain
extent
times.
Then,
men
now,
those
during
worn
to
were
the
modern
frock coat
was
a
is the
of
sort
jacket
of
Yeomen
the
Guard
stationed
a
mediaeval
of
as
sovereign.
with
the dress
Bluecoat
at
that
back,
the
and
and
The
blue
paid
tention
at-
of
adornment
their
for
responsible
gent
strin-
The
calculated
of
our
COSTUME
OF
REIGN
THE
Felt
manufacturers.
oldest industries
hat-making
"
to
OF
from
one
"
into
introduced
was
"
A
Spain and Holland.
given to this branch of
passed in 157 1 which enjoined
country from
great impetus was
trade
every
wear
by
a
law
person
on
above
Sundays
wool, knit made,
England by
coats
were
HENRY
use.
badges
the age
or
of
thickened, and
of
the
forfeiture of
seven
holidays a
trade
years
of
cap
dressed
of
in
cappers,
farthingsfor
this
placed
instead
breast
on
of
of
time; they were
the
firemen
made
sleeve,in the
being embroidered
on
jackets
of
VII
in
were
and
date
of metal
i6th
on
and
century,
the back
or
the garment as they had been
viously.
preRetainers in the households
of the
wealthy, were
provided
with
surcoats
and
of their patron's
year,
favourite colour, and
this was
called the
tribute.
to dislivree,from a French word signifying
mantles
twice
a
of the
Trade
guilds and members
also adopted a distinct
day's neglect." In 1603 the felt learned professions,
became
makers
a
Corporation with grants styleof costume.
nally
origiLawyers, who were
the
of
the tonsure; but
and
course
wore
privileges.
priests,
Throughout
many
the
Middle
Ages the upper classes frequently when
clergy ceased to interfere with
secular
affairs the lay lawyer continued
this
engaged in commerce.
Bishops,abbots, and
coif. Th^ir
and
also wore
a
nobles personallysuperintendedthe disposal signof office,
under
every
the
some
VI.
when
watermen
this
zens
citi-
Mary,
the
encourage
home
London
common
ments
legalenact-
to
of
also
persons,
were
the
habitually used
by
apprentices
and servingmen,
yellow stockings
the
to
and
and
Tudor
considerable
have
of
Edward
of
boots.
monarchs
pital
Hos-
during the reign
closely-fitting
shoes
In
the
Boys
we
skull cap,
slungbehind
the
of
Christ's
worn
a
and
the
at
gives us the military
of the Tudor
costume
period. It is the
oldest corps in her
Majesty's service,and
instituted by Henry VII. as the bodywas
guard
tight sleeves,
over
or
London,
of
Tower
felt hats also with
feathers,
of
rate
degene-
wore
overcoats
siderable
con-
with skirts,
a
occasionally
style
with Holbein's
associated especially,
portraits
and his contemporaries.
of Henry VHI,
uniform
The
at the present day by
worn
and
resemble
"
a
of
sons
younger
the leadingtraders of the
descendant,
present fashions
masculine
"
ancient
estates,and
the
jerkinmade
the 14th century men
clothes made
to fit the
between
of
15 th and 1 6th centuries.
The "frocke"
mentioned, and
frequently
which
of
difference
the
families
good
are
short
began to wear
so
body
closely that it often required the
assistance of two
them,
people to remove
it is from
this period we
and
can
distinctly the
trace
of their
produce
number
neck, and
the
to
of the
lirri-
Their
the
FASHION.
OF
stickingout
they make
they call by
this
gowne.
tied under
and
little,
and
back
the
women,
the ridiculous
EVOLUTION
three
THE
EVOLUTION
were
capacious and lined with
gowns
and the Justicesof the King's Bench
liveries
allowed
silk.
Budge,
miniver
by
the
of
cloth
fur:
and
trimming thereof,
reference
"
Nothing
was
the
green prevailed.
courtiers of Elizabeth
trunk
"
the
quiltedand
frock
hose, slashed
in the most
extravagant
these
were
e
cote"
stuffed doublets
and
for
and
other
close
known
they
became
of
to
construct
Parliament
in
allowed
TIME
SURREY,
OF
EARL
HENRY
VIII.
sary
neces-
the
of
Rouses
ordinary fixed
and
those
trimmed
which
referred
appear
the envy
had
they
era, and
waists which
excite
would
of the belles of the latter part of the
In fact, the gallantsof that
19th century.
day
were
their
love
in advance
even
of
fantastic
of the fair sex, in
costume
:
and
as
over
which
dress
was
Boot
of
Charles
I. and
embroidered
The
of both
shirt
sexes,
and
appliedto
and
the
the
the
half-
to
the
laced.
hose
made
to
were
with lace.
stomacher
necks
were
II.,
shirt
the
others
upright,
drawingsof
the
lace encircled
of the Elizabethan
their
the
ruffs of muslin
to have
now
lie flat upon
in
shoulders, as shown
under-garment
of dandies
and
those
"
that stood
of those wearing
seats, for the accommodation
this singulararticle of attire. Enormous
and
linen
of
rive
dethe modern
word bandbox.
There were
three kinds
some
such
swings in
place of the
made
by the clergy took
and
from which we
origin,
OF
size that it was
enormous
dress
is made
used
as
wool, bran, and other materials.
last
of
ruff,which is too well
need
description
; to
cambric, from which
though they
all of one
were
piece." Trunk
hose were
appropriately
named,
often
filled with
as
they were
At
articles
to
bafides
birds, beasts,
devices, "sewed
up
thereto
attire."
Reference
worn.
the
to
Below
with
and
period :
England
years
various
then
mented
orna-
broidered
stockingsem-
worn
few
the
and
quaint
manner.
in
since, behind
ancient panellingat Hadsome
don
covered
disHall, Derbyshire,was
a
washing bill (with
other
things appertaining to
the i6th and
17th centuries)
which
gives us a good idea of
long time
discarded
of the
constant
inconstancyof
A
have varied
to
appears
different reigns,but for a
The
Chro7iicle,
justlystates
fashions
more
than
colour
in
The
the
to
for the
and
65
in
Hollingshead,
in
were
lambskin, and
or
provided
were
King,
FASHION.
OF
were
variety
a
materials,and
occasionally
of
were
called
nether
stocks ; socks
sometimes
them
over
put
and
;
of Holland
tops were
linen
and
were
or
lace,
formed
the
liningof
the
full
hanging
boots
of
the Cavaliers.
During
Civil
dress
of
the
CHARLES
War
L
the
by the King'sadherents,consisted
worn
doublet
of silk or satin with loose sleeves,
the front; the collar was
generally
of point lace,and a short cloak rested carelessly
shoulder.
The hat was
on
one
a broada
slashed
COURTIER
IN
THE
REIGN
OF
ELIZABETH.
brimmed
up
beaver
with
a
plume
of feathers,
F
66
THE
trunk
hose
Roundheads
or
and
gave
to
way
breeches.
CHARLES
AND
II.
HIS
QUEEN
WILLIAM
FASHION.
mistresses."
The
Republican Party went
opposite extreme.
They cut their
the
OF
EVOLUTION
to
hair
III.
ways, but
Beaumont
(1694)
The
beard
close, avoided
and
Fletcher,in their
usual
GENTLEMAN
with
hat
a
and
suits of
somewhat
plain
jewels,had
a
or
grey
brown
resemblingthe
Corinth,"call
tint, moustache
Which
this
period
waistcoat, which
was
high at the neck, and
made
with
Brussels
sleeves.
cravats
and
Flanders
tied in
were
chin,
the
ends.
a
and
of
the
of
17 th
as
adorn
on
two-fold
doth
was
also
it was
dyed
of
often
face,and
of
to
by writing a letter
bridge
Universityof Camforbidding the
the
members
"
not
the
King's
proved
1830.
heed
ridiculed by
bitterly
"
I know
many
It
their
the
effect
had
censure
of
gear
colattendingthe leges,
to
the fashion
-
it is
that
and
perukes in public,
combs
in
was
read
History
head
the
but
DRESS,
or
relate what
does
students
WALKING
periwigs,
wear
sermons.
upon
old
satirical writers.
to
tobacco,
their
had
that
his disfavour
II. showed
smoke
gentlemen,"says Middleton, in one of
plays, who wear
longer hair than their
young
preposterous
so
former
were
tells us,
different
Everyone tried to rival
neighbour in the size
came
his peruke, till they be-
Charles
with
an
courtier."
the enamoured
express
Shakespeare
his
also
of
a
colours.
Patches
the
custom,
numerous
his
Roman
And
cut
political
significance
according
where
they were
placed
the
The
tume
cos-
end
were
fashion,a revival
to
the
square
II.
perukes
adopted, and
Roman
of
lace ruffles,
such
the nether limbs
Charles
of
hear
ot
beard, consisting
T
century consisted
and
i8tH
OF
"His
beard,
put i' the form of a T,
T ; your T beard is the fashion,
peculiar
breeches
petticoat
drooping
of
he
now
under
the
Queen
"
lace
masculine
towards
what
was
''
imperial:
of
knot
had
Another
feature
also
we
the
cloths
Neck-
and
LADY
AND
and
modern
chimney pot.
About
shape
CENTURY.
lace
cloth
or
in different
worn
most
(1662).
linen
was
the
his
for
absolutely
they paid no
latter
men
to
mands.
com-
comb
curiously-chased
carried
were
tortoise-shell,
pocket with the snuff-box, another
of bone
and
EVOLUTION
THE
appendage
indispensable
In
were
the
1
turned
8th
up
of
century the
at
broad
fine
man.
gentle-
hat
brims
sides,and, in the
"
racy
gallantcocked
his hat accordingto his fancy." Shoe buckles
became
generalin the reignof Queen Anne,
and
displaced the ribbon rosettes
formerly
Planche
worn.
accurately describes the
fashions of that day. "The
square-cut coat
vernacular
of the
the
a
OF
day,
each
FASHION.
67
have only to cast our
We
the
eyes down
vista of ages to find that British costume
has
been suited to the needs, habits,and customs
of the
people,and
Skins
worn.
the
hardy
periods at
of animals
cave
dwellers
which
it
was
approptiateto
were
who
inhabited
this
the world's
early period m
history. The
simple dress of the AngloSaxons
fulfilledthe requirementsof a primitive
country
race
at
;
an
and
the
furs
and
rich
fabrics
brought home by the Crusaders were
adapted
waistcoat with pockets almost
the long-flapped
of civilization which
to the higher state
vailed
prein the Middle
the stockings.There were
met
Ages. In the i6th
hangingcuffs
with lace ruffles,
(of art and culture)
square-toedshoes with red
century the Renaissance
heels, and hats laced with gold or silver was
speciallynoted for richness of attire.
galloon."
During the i8th century a mixture of styles
which
At the beginning of the 19th century many
had
found
favour
with
previous
the most
marked
feature in
important changes took place. Excepting generationswas
the costume
for Couit
substituted
of that period, and this equally
for
dress, cloth was
velvet and other rich fabrics. The coat was
appliesto the two firstdecades of the present
Masculine
attire at the present day,
elaborate
shirt-front, one.
displayingan
open,
stock and flowered waistcoat ; and the skirt, though simple and practical,
has few points
of
it.
beauty to recommend
though full,fell in natural folds. Trousers
Briefly,it
resolves
itself into a
series of
and held in place by a strap
woollen
were
very tight,
beneath the foot,and hats displayednarrow
cylinderswhich changeth not from generation
curved brims.
to generation.
was
stiffened with
wires
and
buckram,
and
Y
2
Chapter
VIII.
^
A
CHAT
ABOUT
CHILDREN
THEIR
AND
CLOTHING.
The
"
As
fashioned
was
by the
or
in
Saviour
or
from
the
by
which
we
girdedwith
a
vital organs
the
worn
in
tunic and
been
have
mented,
orna-
off,so
are
linen
or
givea
shoulders
habits
the
and
effect.
protected the feet.
Egyptian labouring classes
head
a
in
Hats
except by the poor
fold of the toga or
servingfor
covering,and
allowed
their children to be nude,
infants were
and
familiar
unwith
and
man
a
the
the
On
loose
with
the neck
her
reaching to
but in cold weather
girdle,
fastened
stringsat
mer,
sum-
simply
and
girl a
the
tunic
had
boy
loin cloth
and
swaddling
working
The
clothes.
to
people,it
probably the only
used
rounded
corners
sandals
of the
garment
the
Boys wore
supposed to
semicircular
confined
chmate
the
body.
the latter is
mantle
The
over
fabric covered
reaching
vest
chiton
of the
commonly worn,
on
a
journey,a
when
girdle
cord, at others of
a
oblong, with
to
as
not
were
of the
toga, and
ing
girdle. Consider-
a
was
less
or
it,
of
over
The
by drawingthe
thickness
double
and
rightarm
forearm.
consisted
bands, and
a
the
or
appears
close
a
loins,and
the
metal
country
"Samuel,"
clothes.
been
have
sometimes
rule,
CLOTHING.
under
left shoulder
have
enlightenus
the authorityof
On
infancywas wrapped
"
robe
lines to that
more
was
told, being a child,was
to
a
their station in life.
customs.
our
swaddhng
ephod,"
we
as
the
biblical references
two
Eastern
St. Luke,
times
of the
women
they lived,and
according to
One
to
similar
on
and
men
which
in
"
that their raiment
be concluded
it may
Milton.
day."
details,and,
singularlyfew
THEIR
body, passed
the man,
the
shows
children's dress in olden
OF
as
shows
childhood
morning
AND
CHILDREN
ABOUT
CHAT
71
VIII.
Chapter
A
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
other
children
hand,
the
of
and
feet.
supplemented, we
by the little
presume,
his mother
coat
bought
classes in Egypt were
of their elders
repetitions
him
from
on
when
she
was
year to year,
her husband
and
to
came
was
sex
are
and
Roman
OF
CHARLES
skirt
his
youth
child of his old
children
of
as
the
a
gentler
the chiton, or
with a shawl
times
this garment was
to
taught
carefully
put on
education.
of
The long end
as
a
girl's
part
firstthrown
the left shoulder.
The
was
over
the
folds
across
the
The
male
tume
cos-
loin cloth,and a full robe
with short sleeves,or a tunic,and both sexes
curled or plaited
had elaborately
wigs,as the
hair was
natural
only allowed to grow in
consisted
loose classical gown, combined
himation
or
weighted at the four corners, so
in adjustingit. How
to assist the wearer
as
arranged in
a
this
long sleeves.
robe with
mark
with
the shoulders, and
loose transparent
a
from
over
the
broidered
em-
colours
brightsash,or suspended
{After a painting by Vandyck.)
usuallyrepresentedin
front part was
L
Girls
scale.
linen
fastened
and
CHILDREN
also
presented to Joseph in
of Jacob's affection for
age.
Greek
a
in
at Shisacrifice,
loh, where Eli,the High
Priest,lived. A coat of
many
small
offer the
annual
colours
a
wore
upper
of
a
mourning.
occupationof
impress for a long periodon
of
The
Anglo-Saxon
banded
tunic
industrial
and
Britain
Roman
the
was
classes
The
race.
usual
through
leg bandagesand
cross
left its
of
the costume
the
long-sleeved
habit
Middle
of
the
Ages
preceded
gartering
THE
72
breeches.
boys
and
EVOLUTION
OF
FASHION.
the
Quite
young
this dress,
little girlsare seen
in
in
appear
ancient
in the
MSS.
country
kirtle
and
and
gunna, the equivalents
of the modern
and
petticoat
and
dress.
the
Their
was
often the
so
adult
the
in
ladies of
the
in
articles
Several
derived
were
into
The
art
of
tanning skins
with
the
wool
was
also
age
a
cradles
were
the
on,
first few
clothing was
in great request,
a
bandage.
ianship
guard-
husband's
usually
children,
used, and for
own
their
months
swathed
In
this
they
were
more
ly
easi-
carried,
though
a
cha-
racteristic
of
the
con-
strain
people.
The
to
which
most
skilful artificers
they
jected,
sub-
were
were
r
bably
pro-
in the
found
elig
vented
prethat
i ous
houses, but
under
free
deve-
lopme
of
each
"
landowner
the
serfs
which
were
trained
the
in
worn
mecha-
nical
tial
essen-
so
and
the
but
wealthy,
we
der
consi-
to
was
by
limbs,
now
arts.
Silk
with
pact
com-
form
lours
co-
natural
the
of age
the
rude
is
their
until the
Mothers
their
the
child.
of
the
nursed
sum
under
care, but
relations.
love of
gaudy
the
a
to
the
bereft
of
hose.
hair
of
subject to
were
practised, and
dyeingwas
a
or
receive
eldest child became
up his
shoes, ankle
leathern
for in
mother's
the
leathers,and
to
was
father,remained
dress
the
6s.
the second;
30s. for the third year;
afterward
the
foster
worked
who
tanner,
leather
of
from
allowed
12s.
appearance
Children
labours.
such
fosteringa foundling
varying according
pate
partici-
to
was
State
parent
were
law
repression.
For
and
spinning,
sewing, and
highest rank
disdain
not
regarded
a
its
for
as
Christianity
of
the
and
in
and
occurred, but
first year;
industry.
servants
women
employed
weaving,
did
rials
mate-
the produce
of household
The
passed
clothingwere
extent
great
a
Anglo-Saxons
increased, it was
a
crime, and
of
means
The
the
their pagan
ancestors
desertion
of children
as
as
with
case
females, by
head-rail.
used
to
concealed,
not
was
woollen.
the influence
dressed
naturally,or was
with
two
pendant plaits,
and
cotton, linen,
were
sometimes
fall
to
this
in
apparel
Among
ever,
hair, how-
allowed
was
materials for
common
wearing
health
beauty.
If very poor,
CHILDREN
S
COSTUME,
PRESENT
DAY,
the
father
EVOLUTION
THE
allowed
was
seven
to
sell his
providing
years,
child
was
could
give evidence.
into
consent
ten
one
Until
age, her
fifteen years of
slaveryfor
son
the
obtained, and
OF
side
the
the
years
old
girls niay be
could
marry
7?,
stockings,and
of
daughter was
a
father
FASHION.
in
effigies,
mothers,
small
a
of the
in
round
head.
found
full
various
on
which
cap
dress
The
they
placed on
little
of
monumental
their
like
appear
skirts,sometimes
distended
fardingale,the body imprisoned in
ruff encircUng
to the hips,a folded
the neck, and
their stockings(accordingto
of the finest yarn, silk,
thread,
Stubbs)were
cloth
that
could
or
possibly be had, of
changeable colours, cunningly knit, with
curiously indented
points,clocks, and open
by
a
whalebone
The
seams.
white
shoes
and
black, green,
of
were
yellow velvet,
of
or
leather
C^
pleased, but afterwards had no
A boy of fifteen could enter
so.
power
life if so disposed,and a girlat
the monastic
later period. Monasteries
offered
a somewhat
then
the best education
procurable,and the
directed
teach
to
clergy were
youth with
her
he
as
to
do
"
and
care,
to
draw
Schoolboys appear
order, by the dread
of
to
have
to
some
been
craft."
kept
in
personalchastisement,
great respect and
and
by
them
reverence
was
exacted
their elders.
In
the
dress
stitched with silk and
of
the
(Christ'sHospital),we
Blue-coat
School
the
see
ordinary
boys of the Tudor
period. It
consisted of a long coat reachingto the heels
and
knee-breeches, a striped vest, yellow
costume
of
and
silver all
The
before
embroidered
with
gold
the foot."
of Vandyck bringgraphically
paintings
us
the
of the Stuart
and
over
picturesqueelements
era.
refinement
There
about
the
of the dress
is an
air of richness
long
skirted
silken
THE
74
frocks
embellished
universallyworn,
which, by
remodelled
At
were
no
the
a
with
beaver
collars,and
turn
OF
EVOLUTION
pointed
feathers
trailing
quaint lace caps,
lace, the
hats with
and
the
been
of fashion's wheel, have
for the children
period in
stylesso
the
to-day.
history of costume
to
those
leathern
belts,show to greater advantage.
Queen Victoria inaugurateda new
system of
clothingfor boys,when she dressed the young
Princes
wardrobes
of
offensive
FASHION.
in Scotch
of
extended
with
a
outdoor
and
sailor suits,and the
been considerably
all classes have
of
late,by the open-airlife and
sports in which
every
self-respecting
lad
ball,
indulges. Cricket, tennis,boating,footand
demand
cycling,all imperatively
tailors now
appropriate apparel, and
give
reasonable
attention to this important branch
of their business, and
provide fabrics and
designs suited to the needs of the rising
generation.
Habits
of personal cleanliness
and
the
influence of dress on
the minds
of growing
true
conception
of
colour
and
the first half of the nineteenth
have
only to
turn
and
contemporary
and
arms,
to
the
form
sketches
artists to
than
century.
of
find bare
in
We
Leech
necks
conspicuous underwear, very short
skirts distended
by a stiffened petticoator
white
cotton
crinoline,
stockings,low shoes
fastened
room
by a strap and singlebutton, mushhats, aprons and pinaforesdevoid of
girls is hardly realized except by those
elegance and grace, and the hair cut close
in
in education.
stiff
of
to the head
or
rows
Many a
arranged
lets. directlyconcerned
ringdid
has been
Nor
the
sensitive child's character
warped
boys of England, in
buttoned
trousers
high on short jackets,or
by the thoughtless jeers of schoolfellows,
with tunics
worn
with frilled linen collars and
who
were
that
quickto perceive
her
clothing
THE
up-to-date or of
good material as their
not
was
such
On
own.
other hand,
and uncharit-
the
vanity,envy,
ableness
have
been
dered
engen-
foolish
by
mothers,
have
who
provided their
daughters with inappropriate
and
extravagant outfits.
Though
OF
FASHION.
75
at
my
to
distinctive
before
the
of
examples
clothingwhich
form, lightof
which
the
enabled
I am
disposal,
put
in
reader
children's
artisticin
are
and
texture,
impede
physical development.
no
way
who
Those
have
of
children
is
imposed
what
advocate
many
with
uniforms
EVOLUTION
the
should
sacred
a
charge
them, and
upon
their
care
ber
remem-
trimmingsfor girls'
colleges,
that
there
the
mainly depends, upon
in which
manner
they are
clothed during the firstfew
drawbacks
are
scheme
being
Such
a
all desire to
choice
to the
applied
clothing,and
see
of
leave
Children
trained
their
original
select and
to
clothes
to
be
must
the
wear
best
advantage,and it is follyto
think that they will do so
by intuition. Some
may
artistic
an
possess naturally
and
sense
keen
a
colour, but
they
the
in
eye
are
for
tainly
cer-
and
minority,
future
health
must
years of life. There
be no tightbands, belts,or
garters
it would
field for
no
ideas.
bably
pro-
ality
individu-
destroythe
we
the
adopted.
would
course
which
to
and
to
tion
circula-
prevent
to
organic
cause
troubles; and
where
corsets
dispensed with, as happily
they are in many cases
where
growing girls are
concerned, the weight of
the clothingshould be borne
by the shoulders, not the
waist,and this is ensured by
cutting undergarments in
the princessor combination
forms.
Many young people
are
rational
dress
suffer from
reformers
have
beingcarelessly
ble
sensi-
pushed
ideas to the
ity,
verge of absurdtillnow
the
is almost
name
regarded
as
of
term
a
proach.
re-
shod,
and
hideous
formations
mal-
the
feet
arise
in
c
of
o
How
much
neers
pio-
to
owe
of
dren's
chil-
dress
form,
re-
and
especially
to Messrs.
Liberty,
evolved
is
who
what
s
di-
as
aesthetic
the
brain
can
sometimes
be
traced to
heavy
head-gear,
and
of
Hats
of
the
strain
over-study.
should
light
a
ful
grate-
shade
style
From
the
sketch
teously
cour-
that
placed
be
struction,
con-
and
afford
in dress.
e-
the
of
generally
known
e-
while
seases
we
n
quence,
obscure
eyes,
to
if
ing
far-reachailment
of
THE
76
short
civilisation,
combatted
paid
;
down
the
look
the
not
after
of
care
a
of
person
to
of
with
to
notion
who
trusted
en-
who
of
how
fill
must
acquaint
at
body
undertake
themselves
education
mysteries
includes
healthy
any
Is
?
rudiments
to
it
least
The
ignorance
appalling;
disgrace.
have
music,
the
the
simplest
of
the
in
this
of
the
a
maid
nurse-
board
her
of
country
with
the
rarely
the
on
in
and,
;
of
rate
is
the
or
curriculum
instruction
high
school
Euclid,
children
the
human
average
acquainted
Book
training
the
though
First
the
of
of
of
and
may
of
knowledge
functions
and
consequence,
mortality
elementary
an
construction
is
to
infant
indignation.
those
expect
children
a
FASHION.
beating
woman,
young
body,
fragile
in
seen
sun
tender
its
with
be
must
oblivious
nurse
a
glimmering
unreasonable
charge
the
of
sight
the
right-minded
the
and
The
hot
a
OF
successfully
be
often
may
with
them,
upon
fact.
to
has
who
thoroughfares
be
to
attention
special
infants,
to
public
is
sight,
and
EVOLUTION
a
infant
national
IX,
Chapter
FANCY
COSTUME
OF
VARIOUS
PERIODS.
THE
EVOLUTION
OF
Chapter
FANCY
"
The
Here
COSTUME
Tumultuous
grandeur crowds the blazingsquare.
chariots clash, the torches glare."
rattling
The
79
IX.
PERIODS.
VARIOUS
OF
dome, where pleasureholds her midnight reign,
richlydecked, admits the gorgeous train ;
FASHION.
The
reversed.
were
represent the Pope;
churl
elected
was
the buffoon
the lowest of the mob
cardinal; and
to
made
was
a
assumed
for the time being the garb of the priesthood,
occupation of
and took possessionof churches, where
they
Britain, many
pastimes, parodied every part of the sacred service,
sports and
with their appropriatecostumes,
were
and sang masses
composed of obscene songs.
the
DURING
introduced
into
Roman
this country from
Southern
Dramatic
were
representations
tainted
so
Europe and the East, and at a very early by the grossness and licentiousness of the
were
period mummings
popular with the
ing
were
prohibitedfrom attendage, that priests
primitivemasquerades,
people. These were
them, tillthe Church introduced religious
the actors, if we
where
judge from
on
may
scripturalincidents, and
plays,founded
antique illuminations, generally mimicked
miracles and mysteries.
which were
known
as
the brute creation rather than human
beings. For these' the actors
trained
were
by the
at
They often appeared between the courses
vestments
clergy,and sacred edifices and
borate were
elabanquets, and on important occasions
to give truth
placed at their disposal,
pageants were
arranged. Ships filled and lustre to the representations.
with mariners
sometimes
were
garrisonedwith
portrayed some
towers
actors
armed
introduced, or
men,
while the
lesson
allegorical
There
Norman
after the
frequenttournaments
were
these
Invasion, and
patronized
were
Coeur de Lion.
encouraged by Richard
this era theyoccupied a prominentplace
A well-known
event
connected
intimately
in the national institutions and history,
and
with masking was
the narrow
afforded many
escape from
opportunitiesfor the display
death
by fire of Charles VI, of France, on
Ladies
of
these
on
picturesque costume.
The
January 29th, 1392.
king,with eleven
and
sometimes
occasions
were
conspicuous,
of his knights,for the amusement
of the
in parti-colouredtunics
with
rode
short
Court, dressed like savages, in tight-fitting
and
their
hoods
tippets wrapped about
of linen
covered
with
garments
flax, and
Their girdles were
decorated
with
heads.
were
dancing before the Queen and the
and they carried small swords.
gold and silver,
or
historical incident.
Duchess
with
a
de
costume
the
The
Duchess
King by wrapping him
vagrants
III. issued
who
in low
such
persons
London.
The
the
most
d'Orleans
died
an
exhibited
mable
inflamchained
protected the
in the
mantle, but four persons
Edward
Due
accidentally
ignited the
of a masker, who was
four others.
to
From
Berri,when
torch
train of her
in great agony.
ordinance
against
scandalous
querades
mas-
and
directed
ale-houses,
should
be whipped
out
Feast
singularof
and
of Fools
these
that
of
one
of
exhibitions.
It
was
The
space
surrounded
marked
out
for the
by raised seats for
and the judges of
dames, princes,
helmets, emblazoned
the
high
trappingsof
on
their
was
-
born
the conflict.
their ladies' colours
Knights wore
on
combat
their
on
their
clothing,and
horses; and throngs
of troubadours, heralds,and minstrels dressed
in gorgeous
attire,were
present to discharge
their duties,and
to
give importance
to
the
spectacle.
The
ancient
with
English Morris
other
Dance, performed
quaint usages on the ist
somewhat
resembled
the Roman
Saturnalia, of May, is supposed to be of Moorish origin.
and was
enacted at Christmas.
In England
It is depicted on
an
antique stained glass
the celebration
of this festival does
not
window
at
Betley, in Staffordshire. The
with the same
appear to have been attended
with
the Man
the
May-pole and
Hobby
excesses
as
were
commonly practisedon the
Horse
Moorish
a
(who represents
King, and
Continent, but it was
nevertheless a season
is the consort
of the May Queen), occupy
a
of licence, in which
order
and
other characters
discipline prominent position. The
8o
THE
Fool, the
the
are
Lesser
Piper, a Spaniard, the
or
gentleman, a Churl
Queen,
Nobleman,
a
dresses
the
sound
fore
second
bell, the
bell, the
the great bell.
Planche, in his valuable
The
Almack's
treble, the
work, the
"
paedia
Cyclo-
a
MS.
of the
fifteenth century, in the Ambrosian
Library
Milan, and he gives a reproductionfrom
old
wood
paintingon
a
representing
dance
of Burgundy.
lighted
long
taper, and
Court
sixteenth
century,
Five
o'clock
fashionable
century, and
eleven
At
the
was
three
p.m.
breakfast
House
Each
at
In
Gibbon
and
tions
men-
rival establishment,
a
was
the
for those
was
supper
from
of lower
priestlycowl) was
used
in the boxes
concealment, and
of
rank.
eleven
to
commenced
two, and the Opera began at
At this period the domino
was
hour
eighteenth
usually served,
nine
of Commons
the
of
dinner
people during
The
was
festivities.
at
the Pantheon, which he states was
above par
in magnificence,and below
par in humour,
and cost jQ'^(ioo.
and
England masked
before the reign of William
balls were
rare
they first took place
III., and in France
during the regency of Philip,Duke of Orleans,
into a
when
the Opera House
converted
was
wedding
masquerade
dating from 1463,
by torchlightat the
holds a
person
this dance, up to the
usually reserved for
display
garden and from the river.
new
Subscription and Assembly
opened in February, 1765, under
was
a
earliest illustration
at
an
Room
nobility,
a
in the
distinguished
patronage;
the
tenor, and
of Costume," states the
of a bal costume
is in
vocal parts performed by many
of the
fancy dress. Here, too, there was
in
of fireworks
called
were
FASHION.
May
bells,intended to
the dancers.
They
of different sizes,and
were
the
private
or
peasant, the
and
Friar.
a
of
measure
Fool, Tom
Franklin
with
adorned
were
OF
EVOLUTION
a.m.
sitting
seven.
(evolved from
in great request, and
of theatres for purposes
by those of questionable
morals.
Though the largehoop towards the
eighteenth century was
only
in full dress, the pocket
worn
at Court, or
Father
ball-room.
still in
Sebastian, a Carmelite
hoop for distendingthe pannierswas
of elevatingthe floor
For the abolition of the Court hoop,
friar,devised a means
vogue.
indebted
of the pit to the level of the stage, and of
we
are
to George IV., whose
taste
in dress was
and
loweringit at pleasure.
unimpeachable. Powder
Vauxhall
their ground till 1793,
Gardens, and
Ranelagh and
patches maintained
Belsize House, Hampstead, were
also places when they were
discarded by Queen Charlotte
of many
the Princesses.
of popular resort, and scenes
tainments and
enterAprons were
regarded
item of a fashionable costume
as
a necessary
during the eighteenth century.
There
were
pyrotechnicdisplays,bands of up to 1 750, and the watch and etui adorned the
music, frequentballs,and facilitiesfor dinner
waist,necklaces sparkledon the bosom, and
lawns were
bracelets were
and supper parties. The
dotted
worn
over
long gloves.
with
arbours, lakes, and
the trees
festooned
artificial cascades
;
with coloured
lamps,
of those who
the costumes
and
frequented
elaborate and costly.
these gatherings
were
From
the writingsof Horace
Walpole and
others, we learn that privateopen-airgalas
were
of
were
occurrence
common
and
he
gives
among
close
The
Revolution
French
and in 1789
costume;
this country the muslin
chin
Hessian
an
aff'ected masculine
introduced
were
cravat, in which
into
the
concealed, stand-upcollars,
partially
was
boots, and
Scarlet coats
the aristocracy,and
descriptionof
the
of
were
anecdote
in
hats
round
much
"
The
in vogue
Life
of
about
beaver.
1784,
of Sir
Astley
returning from
"
Cooper
represents him as
in honour
House
a dancing academy in a scarlet coat, a
threefestinoat Northumberland
and his bride; cocked
of the Marquess of Tavistock
hat, a black glazed stock, nankeen
arches and pyramids of lights alternately
when
knee-breeches, and silk stockings. This may
surrounded
the enclosure,and festoons
be regarded as the ordinarycostume
of a
In 1761 Her
of lamps edged the railings.
gentleman at that period.
band
Wigs had begun to go out of fashion as
Majesty Queen Charlotte surprisedher hushis birthdaywith a splendidgarden
on
earlyas 1763, in which year the wigmakers
petitionedKing George III. to support the
party, followed by fireworks,a cold supper of
trade by his example.
The
dishes,and an illuminated dessert.
a hundred
hair," says
celebrated a similar
of Richmond
dressed
The Duke
Malcolm, "was
high on the head,
ball and
whitened
with powder, and alternately
music
occasion with a masked
the
plaited
a
a
"
"
EVOLUTION
THE
and
turned
the hair
reverted
"
queued behind.
one
guinea per
in 1795, thousands
their natural colour.
to
brilliant fancy dress
Some
view
tax
enforced
was
"
or
up
powder
to
encouraginghome
place during
Victorian
OF
FASHION.
Waverley quadrille,led by
When
of heads
led by
quadrille,
Scotch
balls
Cossack
(with a
trade)have
taken
Greek
"
higham
Prince
wore
in
in
in two
various
lustrations
il-
close
with
studded
of
III.
with
which
tations
represenof the cos-
tume
had
up
centre
to
was
enriched
(1327-1377)-
this ball
was
with
to
with
the
were
the
collar,as
a
spond
corre-
series of costume
wristbands.
ranged
quadrilles, arby ladies
hose
the Court
of
rank.
They
order
:
Highness
"
to
wore
a
reaching
mantle
the
H.
R
.
the
gold. Over
tunic.His Royal
were
quadby
led
i 1 1 e,
broidered
em-
with
in the following
French
H
were
high
of
r
the
which
The
scarlet,
shoes,
were
also
and
others
danced
the
the knee,
bordered
and
jewels
of
the
heightof
the
special feature
an
opening
Edward
A
purple
thickly
jewels.The tunic,
desiring
period of
the
dered
bor-
was
velvet,
of reference
accurate
fitted
round
neck,
invaluable
for those
the
The
which
collar,
autograph
portraits of the
wearers.
They
book
and
to
ankles.
dresses,
an
gold
brocade,
and
form
sisted
con-
long
a
reaching
the
of
It
blue
by J. R, Planche,
fully
containing care-
king
Westminster
tunic of
compiled
the
that
of
handsome
coloured
from
Abbey.
exists
volumes
costume
a
copied
effigyof
1842, a permanent
memorial
of
Albert,
III,
Edward
as
Buck-
Palace
Duchess
Leinster.
Of
first, which
was
given by the
Queen and Prince
at
the
led by Baroness
Bremon.
quadrille,
of
quadrille,led by the Duchess
the
Consort
Countess
Buccleuch,
the
era.
the
de la Warn
annum
the heels,composed
of the richest
.
Duchess
of Cambridge.
ALBERT
PRINCE
AS
EDWARD
scarlet velvet,
III.
bordered
led by
Spanish quadrille,
the Duchess
of
the
of
broad
gold figuredlace,set
large pearls.
Buccleuch.
led by
quadrille,
German
Duchess
It
lined with
was
across
each
the
breast
by
by
a
side with
ermine, and
a
band
of
with diamonds, rubies,
in the centre
quoise
was
a tur-
purple velvet,studded
Sutherland.
Crusaders'
connected
on
quadrille,led
of Londonderry.
by
the
chioness and
Mar-
emeralds, and
of immense
size and
perfectcolour.
G
82
The
band
either
fastened
was
Her
Over
this
was
gold brocade,
embellished
match, and
worn
the
with
with
second
royal
George
of
The
selected,and
Queen looked
and
her
dress
ball in
June, 1845,
(1727 1760)
II.
-
guests
1200
in
of
as
silver,with
of
invited.
were
extremely well
described
is
gold and cloth
poppies worked
powder,
cloth
daisies
of
and
in natural
and shaded
silk,
ruffles of
trimmings and
exquisitepoint lace had belonged to Queen
fur
in
The
colours.
stomacher
a
the
period
was
surcoat
a
trimmed
FASHION.
For
on
III.,was attired in
skirt of crimson
velvet,edged
with miniver.
of blue and
at
mantle
of Edward
demi-trained
to
the
by a massive
gold ornament
with preciousstones.
as
Majesty the Queen
Philippaof
Hainault, wife
of
to
OF
side
enriched
a
EVOLUTION
THE
"
valued
jewels
;^6o,ooo.The
other
the
portions of
costume
also
were
with
studded
The
jewels.
tle
man-
of
was
gold
with
brocade,
a
design in
.The hair
floral
silver.
in
was
encased
gold
net, enriched
a
with
precious
stones,
and
was
surmounted
by
a
crown.
Princess
gusta
Aubridge
Cam-
of
personated
Claude,
Princess
daughter of
of
Anne
Bretagne,
of France.
Queen
ver
sil-
of
dress
Her
tissue
was
with
bordered
mine,
er-
the
and
tunic
of
was
blue
worked
fleur
The
bodice
was
o
n
d
trimmed
were
with
.
,
"
^
,
diaAS
VICTORIA
QUEEN
with
to
jewelled,
wrist, and
the
of
rows
and
pearls.
a
silver embroideries
The
white
tulle
depended
Charlotte
were
gloves
veil
from
a
On
crown
Prince
the
Consort, and
at this ball,were
silk-weavers
OF
EDWARD
III.
of
most
of the
manufactured
Spitalfields.
costumes
by
the
"
the
and
stomacher
was
trimmed
with lace and
turquoise and
pearl diadem.
By Her
dress, that of
Majesty's command, her own
worn
WIFE
PHILIPPA,
silver
reached
tissue
,
low
The
s.
of
sleeves
II
bor
with
dered
"
in
lis
-
("|
the
with
de
-
silver.
m
light
velvet,
the
;
rosettes
star
Garter.
the
same
mented
jewels. The sacque was ornawith ribbons, caught with diamonds.
diamond
a
powdered coiffure was
Her
Majesty's white shoes had red
with diamond
and
ribbon
Prince
centres, and she
the Order
of
of
Albert
period,with
had
a
costume
wore
the
of
the Star of the Garter,
THE
and
the
Duke
the
Marchioness
The
Baroness
Fleece
of
Coutts
Burdett
"
Miss
several
other
and
character
also
attended
with
at
admired
much
was
ill-fated
of the
now
jewels once
Willis' Rooms,
members
the
of
Ball
Waverley
Royal
in
the
Stuart.
Mary
On
July 22nd, 1874, a fancy dress ball was given
by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and
Princess of Wales
at
Marlborough House,
for
which
prepared.
Venetian
with
The
beautiful
some
Princess
The
danced
dress,and
the
Prince
present Duke
in
Cavalier
a
costumes
wore
a
in the firstquadrille
chief costume
Devonshire.
of
the ball with the late Duchess
The
were
handsome
opened
costume
of Sutherland.
on
quadrilles
this occasion
Venetian, the Vandyck, Characters
in Fairy Tales, and a Pack of Cards.
the
were
Another
in
historic
February,1895, at
Earl
and
imaginedthan
costume
Warwick
of
Countess
fitting
background
be
bal
for
given
Castle,by the
was
Warwick.
such
a
No
more
function
can
this
mansion, which
stately
has been a centre
of hospitality
for countless
been
generations,but has never
presided
over
more
by no
gracious and
popular
chatelaine than the present Countess.
Lady
Warwick
83
broche
of
silk,with
fichus
posed
was
with
the property of Marie Antoinette.
In 187 1 the Princess of Wales
Family,
"
EASHION.
in
Douro, the
diamonds.
of
dress trimmed
present, her
the
OE
of Wellington'sdaughter-in-law,
was
acknowledged belle of this ball,and wore
;^6o,ooo worth
the
Golden
the
of
Order
briUiants.
EVOLUTION
silk hats trimmed
chiffon,and
Each
carried
ribbons
effect
was
wore
a
ruby
long
a
French
white
cloth
white
kerseymere
white
shoes
ornamented
with
a
Warwick
of
with
of
coat
braided
was
knee-breeches
and
with diamond
in
low
buckles.
la
wig, a
the
gold lace,
The
long
revers.
waistcoat
the
were
Earl
costume, the
cuffs, and
gold,and
Earl's
and
The
Court
white
flowers,
profuselytrimmed
velvet
feathers.
with
tied
of
charming.
The
crook
bunches
and
white
of
with
tied
mousquetaire,
ribbon,and he carried
ostrich plumes, and
a tricorne hat with white
white gauntletgloves. Lady Warwick's
two
of Sutherland
the Duchess
and Lady
sisters,
Angela Forbes, representedMarie Letzinka,
of Louis
consort
XV., and
Lady Mary
a
Campbell. The former wore
magnificent
of white
satin de
Lyon. The skirt
gown
with
embroidered
a
flightof swallows in
silver and crystals,
of Point de
a deep bertha
bow
was
of black
Flandre, with
ruffles of
short
The
sleeves.
embroidered
was
and
Her
diamonds.
of
the
velvet
emblem,
splendid
of
Forbes'
dress
blue
Princess
de
the
same
was
sash, and
a
embroidered
i8in.
brilliants,
a
jewels in
with
of Pless,
dress of
Henry
had
Polignac,
satin,the skirt
turquoisesand
wig,and
French
a
the
on
trimmed
silk,
turquoise
roses.
la Duchesse
deep, with
of
same
stomacher
muslin, with
feathers and
rich white
a
Lady Angela
white
picturesquehat
as
with
had
Grace
the
train of crimson
her
dered
pow-
hair.
Lady Eva Dugdale, sister to the Earl of
very
Antoinette
of Louis
to Her
XVL
of
Warwick, and lady-in-waiting
(the consort
Royal
a Louis
France) in a petticoatand corsage of exquiHighness the Duchess of York, wore
site
English brocade, with a designof shaded
Quinze white satin dress,covered with pink
a
roses, enriched with gold thread on
pearl- roses, corsage en suite fastened with large
coloured
diamond
A silver trellispattern
ornaments.
ground. The train of royal blue
in gold thread with the
of the skirt,
worked
round the hem
and
velvet,embroidered
was
white silk mittens and shoes completed the
attached to the shoulders by a
was
fleur-de-lis,
band of diamonds; and the Warwick
white
a
Lady Rosslyn chose
jewels, costume.
diamond
muslin
embroidered
the overdress
stars, were
petticoat,
arranged on the corsage
veiled with gold flecked gauze,
which
of pink and red stripedsilk,fichu and ruches
was
hat.
also employed for the puffed sleeves.
of black lisse,
and a picturesque
Her
Lady
elaborate white coiffure was
Madame
la
de Pompadour,
Flo
surmounted
as
Sturt,
Marquise
by
white muslin
in rich cream
a
satin,with bodice
was
cap edged with blue velvet
with diamond
and
adorned
stomacher
and sleeves of antique lace, and
and
aigrettes
A
black satin toque, with
of diamonds.
plumes of pink, white, and blue feathers.
well with
of diamonds, contrasted
Lady MarjorieGreville (theonly daughter of
aigrette
Lord and Lady Warwick) with Miss Hamilton
the white wig. Count
Deym, the Austrian
train bearers.
dress.
acted
in English Court
as
the
Ambassador, was
They wore
Prince Henry of Pless,in mousquetaire cosdaintiest white costumes
of the period,
comlooked
beautiful
as
Marie
-
G
2
84
F. VOLUTION
THE
tume, representedthe Vicomte
of Manchester
The
Duke
was
breeches, waistcoat
coat
of white
with
roses
and
moss
The
in white
satin
with
silver brocade
and
foliage.
inside
scene
Bragelonne.
de
match, bordered
to
gold,and
OF
the
FASHION.
of the sixtieth year of the reignof
Ball
at
Costume
a
Victoria, was
in honour
Queen
Devonshire
one
was
of
received
unparalleled brilliancy,while those who
saw
by
glanced from the mullioned windows
brightmoonlightthe Avon frozen,the ancient
with frost,and the surroundcedars glistening
ing
The
country wrapped in a snowy mantle.
entire ground floor of the Castle was
thrown
and
no
pains were
spared to give as
open,
complete a representationas possibleof the
of
fetes which
made
the Court
of
gorgeous
Marie Antoinette famous
throughout Europe.
in which
pictures,
represented; and
The
rear,
finest
candles
high
screens,
and
shaded
of the
in the
at
supper
light of
reflected
was
which
armour
when
spectacle presented itself
the guests assembled
lined hall, where
the
in
surrounded
bright
the walls.
hung with Beauvais
by huge palms, filled
hall,and
the stone
thousand
a
the
walls
oak-
were
steel
Several
tapestry
the
angles
partially
concealed
by yellow and silver embroideries.
In the huge fireplace
logs crackled, and on
tables were
small round
delabra
placed silver canwith crimson
shades
consistingof
maiden-hair
reserved
fern.
for Marie
scarlet
The
geraniums
table
centre
Antoinette
and
was
her Court,
here was
the choicest displayof family
other
valuable
plate, including, amongst
specimens of the goldsmith'sart, a golden
Cellini.
From
by Benvenuto
cup modelled
the hall you entered the Red
Drawing-room,
contains
flowers and
of
Marie
a
marble
fruit,and
whose
other
table, inlaid
with
formerly the property
Antoinette.
Drawing-room, used
Next
is the
Cedar
the
ball-room, on
walls
are
family portraitsand
many
paintingsby Vandyck ; the remainder
as
the
the suite of State apartments were
used as
drawing-rooms between the dances; and
is the Library,
at the oppositeend of the Casde
beautiful
rooms
which
the
Duke
of
a
tion
recep-
galleryof
masters
were
well
are
in the
grounds
Chinese
and
Duchess
and
decorated
lanterns and
Devonshire, the
of
V. of
Germany,
cence
magnifias
Zenobia, Queen of Palmyra, in a
of silver tissue wrought with
jewels.
of cloth of gold similarly
mantle
was
latter attired with Oriental
the
robe
The
the
treated, and
bodice
white
of
ostrich
also
was
studded
head-dress
The
precious stones.
plumes
and
sisted
con-
golden
depended
a
which
from
jewelled crown,
the Princess
of pearls. H.R.H.
of
Wales, as Margaret of Valois,was surrounded
by the ladies of her Court, their Royal
of
Denmark,
Highnesses Princess Charles
and
chains
Victoria
Princess
Fife, and
Princess
the
Wales, the Duchess
of
Duchess
of Wales
of
a
wore
York.
gown
of
The
of
white
wrought with silver,and a train of cloth
with
silver
and
of gold lined
superbly
of Wales, as
the Prince
jewelled. H.R.H.
Grand
Master of the Knights Hospitallers
of
Chevalier
St. John of Jerusalem and
of
satin
out
flowers.
delicately-shaded
old
the
extensive
personating Charles
former
wore
of
floor;
held
fairy
lamps. The principalfeature of the ball was
the guests, headed
a grand processionof
by
Malta,
festoons
of
Duke
Geogiana,
fine suite of
this occasion
on
with thousands
carried
Billiard-room,and the Countess's lovely
Seize Boudoir, in ivory tints, with
a
first
the
that
of Devonshire,
Duchess
on
historic
third
here
of
members
This
for the
it was
It contains
her Court.
of
Louis
built
was
with
the
distinguished
many
Colonies, and
Devonshire, and
and
and
which
mansion
of
members
nearlyall the
Diplomatique.
Corps
floral decorations, with
and
the
July 2nd,
Duchess
and
Family,
Royal
guests from
the
Duke
the
Devonshire
the
on
Piccadilly,
House,
when
1897,
Castle
Englisharistocracy
of the
members
given by
the white
The
cross
Duke
of
Cumberland,
courtiers.
rich
a
in
black
Elizabethan
and
of the Order
York
one
Prince
costume
bearing
and
silver,
on
one
shoulder.
represented the Earl of
of
Elizabeth's
Queen
Charles
of Denmark
was
a
carried on
Duke
of Connaught
with great spirit Danish
student.
The
Dancing was
tillearlymorning, and
the tardy winter sun
of a militarycommander
the uniform
wore
had
risen ere
the last carriagedrove away
the
during the reign of Elizabeth, and
from
of the most
looked charming as Queen Anne
of
successful balls of the
Duchess
one
nineteenth
with puffed
Austria in a picturesque gown
century.
The
sleeves.
Eastern Queens were
entertainments
Among the many important
magnifi-
THE
cently
Trafford
in
Assyria,
of
British
the
Pless
Princess
Museum.
Queen
was
train
shot
of
and
and
with
wore
Cynthia
patras
Graham,
The
Paget.
Byzantine
a
Queen
was
and
with
Cleo-
d'Alengon
a
a
of
embroidery
turquoises,
notable
Elizabethan
Lady
Tweedmouth
gown
copied
Portrait
by
four
and
picture
of
the
doublet
enriched
dress
of
head-dress
was
attended
dressed
the
in
with
gold
blue
of
Warwick,
ruby
Lord
velvet
Queen
of
velvet,
and
with
Duchess
character
favourite
Gold,"
embroidery.
worked
the
of
of
maid
as
of
Mary
of
Marie
tulle
pearls.
L
cliffe,
in
and
Lady
Scots,
Charles
wore
Lambi.
the
white
silver,
mantle,
The
satin
the
British
de
by
with
diamonds
in
the
coiffure.
and
by
Duchess
who
of
headed
of
composed
was
lisse
covered
embroidered
exact
an
Museum
Savoia,
with
of
Russia,
of
was
the
of
procession,
and
introduced
dress
Duchesse
partially
wife
Rain-
IL
her
gown
veiled,
of
Maria,
Viscountess
Court
Venetian
Hamilton,
Antoinette,
as
in
picture
The
Portland,
veil
and
Marie
Marchioness
Catherine
Empress
Coronation
Empress
the
England;
satin,
the
of
copy
Hamilton,
honour.
the
as
white
wore
She
of
Empress
Marchioness
Henrietta
Queen
as
the
;
the
the
the
the
and
and
other
mentioned
as
in
as
dress
head-
many
be
Paris
Austria,
of
Zetland's,
Leicester,
of
of
Mary
ruff
by
the
Queen's
Countess
hose
pale
and
Earl
and
as
Cloth
collection.
the
was
Edmondstone,
a
the
Court
Hampton
slashed
of
Holbein's
from
The
crown
appears
Louvre,
Londonderry,
Therese,
satin.
Tweedale's,
she
as
the
at
and
jewelled
jewelled
should
of
wore
satin,
with
Among
costumes
Josephine,
of
with
Lady
diamonds,
and
small
a
Lady
and
Naples,
edged
feathers.
Marchioness
picture
crimson,
of
copied
a
carried
was
uniforms
Field
The
"
in
National
the
canopy
in
gold,
Tweedmouth
satin,
Her
by
Elizabeth,
in
picture
a
yeomen
represented
was
Queen
as
from
Gallery.
black,
in
Court
of
white
two
pearls.
The
lined
and
consisted
and
silver
waist.
of
a
point
duchesse
ivory
velvet,
Chine,
with
Hebe,
Queen
of
lilac
of
trimmed
the
as
with
train
of
and
a
Charlotte
de
at
a
included
as
crepe
lovely
three-
ladyship
group
dagger
gown
embroidered
dress
and
made
Empire
an
red
cap,
lace,
Forbes,
Angela
gold
and
and
her
This
of
gown
fichu
suits
over
velvet.
attended
was
Sutherland,
of
a
blue
she
satin
velvet.
Westmorland
Wilson
with
amethysts,
mushn
gown
rich
of
English
of
Royal
and
white
blue
petticoat
a
of
bearing
Duchess
Lady
Countess
wore
embroidered
crepe,
studded
Esther,
Queen
as
the
in
hats,
Corday,in
Elcho
Muriel
Miss
Queen,
the
and
train
powdered,
pages
of
in
Court
a
a
was
four
canopy
panied
accom-
Lady
hair
by
dressed
and
with
cornered
Arthur
latter
Antony.
Vashti,
Dudley,
white
two
Mrs.
the
of
Mark
as
The
dress,
head-
was
were
and
Grey
husband
her
was
there
and
de
of
other
bird
Sheba
of
brocade,
and
jewelled
satin
in
rately
elabo-
and
diamond
a
Queen
Lady
"
turquoises
with
Another
aigrette.
robe
a
tissue,
gold
Assyrian
an
decorated
vase
Henry
in
Sheba,
of
purple
embroidered
stones,
a
85
beautifully
was
white
Empress
from
copied
dress
FASHION.
OF
jewels.
Semiramis,
was
a
with
blazing
and
arrayed
de
Lady
EVOLUTION
wrought
a
silver
pearls
emeralds
and
with
cloth
monds,
diawere
Chapter
X.
STAGE
AND
FLORAL
COSTUME.
FASHION.
OF
EVOLUTION
THE
X
Chapter
All the world's
"
all the
And
GARRICK
English
the
was
one
of
success
a
appropriatecostume,
of
management
at
branch
mixture
of
ancient
modes,
hitherto
this
to
He
art.
absurdity of a
the
foreign
the
much
how
which
important
refused
of
to
heterogeneous
and
clown,
soldiers
in
the
had
Nation
of
in trunk
been
gradual,for Garrick
played the part
very
said to
have
to
Mrs.
Yates
is
Lear
and
Hamlet
he
though
in
a
of
the
played
fancy dress
regard
some
detail.
Even
century,
an
Mathews
public,at
the
Richmond
helmet
in
and
much
also
the
plays
Miss
Theatre
a
modern
or
1
as
are
lighthorse
the
of
and
the
provincial
Langtry,
theatres
revivals
to
earliest
oblivion.
touch
the
seen
and
at
late
also
influence, money,
bear
otherwise
often to be
in
on
our
music
correct
stage
result that
we
sumptuouslyand
new
plays,
might have sunk
Such
spectacles
politan
leading Metrohalls,if they fail
publicfancy,mean
absolute
and
irretrievable ruin to their promoters; and when
thousands
it is remembered
that many
are
annually
before
harlequinade was
717, and
to
vival
re-
also
was
Bernhardt,
Terry, Mrs.
their
taste
into
late Mr.
spent
pantomime
England in
and
Madame
Ellen
which
MAIDEN
TURKISH
Royal, Richmond, as
HL,
wearing the
Richard
jacket of
The
Calvert's
ballets
London
at
dressed
A
provided
"
and
VHL,
with the
costume,
have
had
many
his firstappearance
made
away
Sir Henry
Irving, and the
Harris
have
Sir Augustus
of
recorded.
Wingfield
designing
to
in Mr.
theatres.
century,
with
passed
Alhambra
brought
designed
excellent
responsiblefor dressingmany
and
HL
time
of Henry
i8th
Richard
various
adapted
Lewis
late Hon.
also followed
first
played in
with
the costumes
soldier.
The
stage purposes
as
correctness
be
been
"
during the present
achronism
anequally absurd
may
Charles
to
also
has
court
the fashions
century.
of
the stage dresses of the Victorian
Madame
Alias
and
who
era,
of
appeared in a
ous
petticoatof enormdimensions, with tight-fitting
pointed bodice and elbow sleeves,
and
her powdered hair dressed
Garrick's
over
a
high cushion.
suits for the characters
of King
hooped
iSth
costume
has
The
ten
while
scarlet ;
Lady Macbeth
the
of
peasant
devoted
later
in a
years
gold-laced suit of sky blue and
Macbeth
of
effect.
have
must
ballet dancers
some
nations
provement,
im-
The
hose.
however,
a
contemporary
no
French
are
The
Oriental
an
the
the middle
wigs,
full-bottomed
King
the
in
carefully-executed
platesin Planche's "Cyclopaediaof Costume.'^
times
They are all representedin long,and somefirstexample of
in trained skirts. The
ballet skirt,reaching to the
the abbreviated
knee, is given in the portraitof an actress
personating Le
Zephyr, about
representing,for instance, Greek
and
have
we
drawings.
this period there
tragedies by
debased
be found
to
Fair, dated
1721.
of columbine, pantaloon,
characters
the
and
us, is
to
Bartholomew
Of
in 1747,
Theatre
Lane
Drury
dramatic
of
tolerate
our
piece depended upon
his taking the
and, on
his attention
turned
once
realize
to
Of
first of
English harlequin in
an
familiar
now
sketch
parts."
plays many
of the
actors
dress
their entrances,
in his time
man
one
illustration of
stage,
a
merely players,
women
their exits and
They have
And
and
men
COSTUME.
FLORAL
AND
STAGE
89
at
once
be
a
seen
in staging theatrical
singleseat is booked,
what
enormous
sums
prises,
enter-
it will
must
be
involved
The
in
been
catered
for
the scenic
which
It would
limit
even
costumes
of
times
some-
difficulties with
the
scribed
the circum-
singlevolume
a
the
the
minutely
to
notable
most
theatrical
FLORAL
last
for the benefit of those
them
into
COSTUMES.
POPPY.
A
desire
who
ments.
entertain-
various
FASHION.
capable of controlling
every gesture, and of
voices.
charming us with their well-modulated
Our lives are
cheered
by viewing the comic
side of
our
on
things, and
clothing and
household
the stage has also laid
possessions,
hand.
a refining
half century, but a few
will be
effective floral costumes
introduce
to
generously, are
so
impossiblewithin
of
the most
appended
sixtyyears
artist has to contend.
be
describe
for the last
overlook
to
apt
have
OF
interests
furtheringdramatic
public,who
of
EVOLUTION
THE
90
bodice
The
skirt of
and
pleated mousseline
The
steady patronage of Her
the Royal Family
have
done
much
to
prejudiceswhich
the
Majesty
the
flower
belt in
and
silk
and
Queen
drama,
remove
as
any
of
against
powerful
a
if he
be
assimilated
having
lesson.
we
owe
To
precious
the
all
sex, in an
desire for progress,
neglectthose
in the
them
pieces
allow
the world
was
of
the
times
some-
live
occurred
people
to
"
examples?
marked
a
have
not
rose
our
are
of
the
Cross,"
"
concord
and
of sweet
community
the
opera
?
we
the
value
watch
of
stimulated
sounds
among
Such
plays as
"Mikado"
instinct for colour
taught
restraint when
entirely
ROSE.
have
and
pink
hat
pink satin,veiled
of
and
buds.
at
on
hem
the
the
flecked
ruche
A
of
bodice.
trimmed
with
WILD
ROSE.
of
moss
with
moss
the skirt
A
roses
Dolly
and
ribbon.
Robertson
"
comic
Varden
Babylon,"
yet
"Patience"
we
of
influence
"
Caste " and
Ours
are
love of music is not considered
trait of the English nation,
a
A
flowers.
blooms,
correspond.
tulle
roses
POPPY.
and
the
of
those
A
A
all classes of the
to
Gown
Sign
Daughters
Italian and
desire for
a
these
with
The
"
school, of which
hat
with
vince
con-
tastes
simpler,
"
or
''Virginius,"
lace
MOSS
nature, with its passions
and
has changed
aspirations,
but little. Who
can
deny the moral
playsas
Hypatia," The
the
covered
fan
lace
when
the
were
such
of
white
silk.
green
White
and
human
of
on
berthe
full
again
and
young,
though
us,
VALLEY
historical
to
us
mounted
buckler.
and
which
scenes
able
insati-
lesser arts
and
classical
THE
Corsage and skirt of
pleated Valenciennes
of
past proved
shield
a
The
in
more
some
OF
LILY
types of
weaker
which
silk
black shoes and
carried.
able
valu-
the
that
now
a
tume
cos-
Shakespeare
ideal
many
womanhood,
for
this
With
neat
without
some
the
one
stockingsshould be worn, and
with
a
palm-leaffan covered
poppies and foliageshould be
the theatregoer
leaves
is used
size
extra
Large
on
bust, and
and
head-dress.
education
the
auxiliary to
stage is rapidlygaining
ground.
Dull, indeed, must
bright red silk.
poppies appear
shoulders
existed
and
red accordion,
soie,the petals of the
de
broidered
pink and white satin,empainted with clusters and trails
and foliage. Skirt edged with
of wild roses
with roses,
of pink tulle studded
full ruche
to correspond.
and corsage trimmed
Coiffure
poudre dressed with small basket of roses and
Dress
of
shot
or
veloped pink ribbon.
de-
form, and
industry
well-trained
WHITE
and
actors.
Gown
with
Watteau
ROSE.
train
of
white
satin
EVOLUTION
THE
with
leaveless
flowers
carried
edged
same
elbow
and
wreath
and
white
of
crook
a
ribbon
flowers
and
ROSES.
brocade, with
cream-coloured
of
design in shaded
with garland of
in tulle.
different tints
of
roses
Decollete
correspond, and
a
of the
THE
High
edged with
embroidered
in
bold
a
The
ikirt
thistles,which
of
design
are
the
on
Satin hat trimmed
front of gown and bodice.
with thistles and ribbon, and black staff tied
with thistles and ribbon streamers,
r,
DANDELION.
finished
the
yellow accordion, pleated chiffon
of
Gown
in
the hair.
the skirt with trails of flowers from
on
waist
to
with the seed
FLOWERS.
WILD
a
bedded
em-
worn
rose
de nil satin.
eau
wreath
a
and
THISTLE.
of
dress
trimmed
corsage
damask
tiny shamrocks,
in the hair.
same
trimmed
foliage,
and
roses
with
strewn
coronet
also
SUMMER
to
with
decorated
streamers.
Gown
tulle
9'
A
lace.
of
powdered hair,
in the
roses
the
FASHION.
square-cut bodice,
the
Ruffles
sleeves.
of
the front of the
across
outhning
dress, and
chains
roses,
OF
The
aways.
hem
of the skirt,interspersed
pods commonly known as blowbodice of pleatedyellow chiffon
the berthe and clusters
with dandelions
across
satin,veiled with green
A wreath
and aigrette
to
tulle.
Trails
of
forget-me-nots,poppies, on the shoulders.
marguerites,buttercups,and grass depending
correspond.
from
the waist-belt to
edge of skirt, and
IRIS.
bodice trimmed
to correspond. A Leghorn
Dress
of white satin, veiled with mauve
hat garnished with wild flowers,grass, and
blue ribbons.
chiffon, flecked with iris petals. Trails of
Dress
pale blue
of
Greek
dress
embroidered
in classical
crepe
de
design
with
Chinei
silver-
diagonaltrailsof gardeniasand their
foliagearranged from the rightshoulder
In front
dark
left side
to
of dress.
silver bands.
hair
The
shower
A
flowers
Square
elbow
sleeves.
with the
to
cut
bows
carried
to
corsage
A
muslin
flowers.
same
of
across
correspond,
trimmed
cap
hair.
Powdered
LILAC.
with
bound
bouquet
the skirt.
and
tied with
shades, and
satin in alternate
white
of
white
and
mauve
GARDENL^.
of
Gown
spond.
corre-
with
satin brocaded
cream
mauve
Marie Antoinette,white chiffon
white lilac,
with
trimmed
clusters of
and
fichu,
cap
and