The Link, Issue 6

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

ISSUE 6 • 2013
ON THE COVER:
17 8 14 30 Special Men’s Section AHLC Conference Review State of the Industry With Andy Wright Cosmetology Licensing Under Attack

Special Men’s Section:
18 18 20 22 24 26 28 A Client Speaks Out Custom Consultations: For Men Only The Rebirth of The Men’s Hair Replacement Business Look How Far We’ve Come At-Home Laser Therapy as a Profit Center Bleaching Knots Living With Alopecia Universalis

Features:
5 Creating Memories and Making a Difference 34 Introducing The Hair Foundation 35 AHLC on “Marie”

In Every Issue:
4 6 33 37 38 Message From the AHLC Board Welcome New and Renewed Members AHLC Member Spotlight: Carmen Rincones New Product Spotlight AHLC Academy Listings

Subscription Information:
Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition. Non-member subscription price: $60 annually within the continental United States, $85 International. To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

The Link Issue 6, 2013  3

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

MESSAGE FROM THE AHLC BOARD

The future of our industry depends on each of us.
by: René Meier Today’s male client is more discriminating than ever before. The technology has gotten much better, base materials are more refined and new applications make the appearance of a full head of hair more natural. Our client is also much more educated and influenced by more options to fight hair loss and replace lost hair. We also face the competition on the Internet. But wait! Is that really competition? Can your client get their hair system that they purchased online cut in via Skype? What if the color or fit is wrong or it simply has a bad haircut? What kind of recourse would your client have with an Internet hair sale when something goes wrong? I’m sure it’s a headache. We all have had an unsatisfied client come into our businesses and we took care of the situation, and made the client happy, right then and there. That does not happen online. Good customer service skills, years of experience and continuing education used to transform a person suffering from hair loss cannot be done via Wi-Fi or online, but in your chair! I appeal to you to continue your training and commitment to this industry. I also appeal to our manufacturers to support us with the best products available, sold to and by professionals only! Everyone who wears hair represents our industry, whether purchased online, cut by an inexperienced hair stylist or hopefully by someone that cares enough to make a hair replacement look the best possible. What WE do is individual. Every client is different. Every hair replacement you cut in has your signature and that is why your client keeps coming back.

The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 615.601.AHLC (2452) or [email protected]

The Link Staff:

Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: e-zign Design Group, www.e-zign.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill

Dave Fatula, Event Coordinator, Franciscan University, Steubenville, OH James Hanlon, Shenandoah, PA Grant Gunderson, Director, Medical Services, HRI of Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh, PA Barbara Goldstein, Co-Founder, Media Power Advertising, Charlotte, NC Elvira Amankwa, CMP, New Image Labs, West Palm Beach, FL Randy Veliky, Chief Technology Officer, Lexington International, Boca Raton, FL Matt Kelley, NAAF Support Group Leader, Menlo Park, CA Myra Irizarry, Professional Beauty Association, Director of Government Affairs, Scottsdale, AZ Carmen Rincones, Owner, California Concept Cuts, Columbus, OH Dr. E. Antonio Mangubat, Founder, The Hair Foundation, Tukwila, WA

Contributors:

Membership Information: For more information call 570.462.1101 or visit www.ahlc.org. For a membership form visit www.ahlc.org or email [email protected]

AHLC Board of Directors:
Peggy Thornhill, President Marsha Scott, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director René Meier, Board Member Joseph Ellis, Board Member

Log into your members-only account on ahlc.org and click on Downloads.
4  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement. The American Hair Loss Council © 2011. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published by e-zign Design Group. www.e-zign.com

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Standard is... EXCEEDING the Standard!
by: Dave Fatula Each person who walks through your doors should be exposed to the unique experience of a lifetime, an experience that is as unique as you are and can only be found at your business. What is important? ·Being a part of a business that pays the bills, but everyone has the same vision, meaning and purpose? In other words, they can’t wait to come to work to make a memory and make a difference. ·Being a part of a business where everyone has meaning, purpose, vision, and enthusiasm? They can’t wait to get to work and the business still make tons of money? Create a game plan for making a difference! Ask yourself: ·Have we made it a priority to create an atmosphere of professionalism, competence, respect and compassion, an atmosphere which is unique and one that

Creating Memories and Making a Difference
others try to copy? ·Do we have a mission statement? What are we all about? ·Have each of us bought into the mission statement to the point where we all believe that we are unique. Do we believe that each day we are creating memories and making a difference? ·Do I meet with my staff regularly, allowing feedback, going over areas for improvement and expectations? ·Do we make our expectations crystal clear to our new hires and do we give them the proper training to excel? ·Have we created an atmosphere of open communication, one in which all staff are free to come to us with whatever is on their minds? ·Do we accept the fact that if we are not getting better, we are getting worse? ·Do each of us have a passion for what we do? ·Does everyone say “Thanks”, and “Well done”? ·Do we take the time to greet each person (by name)

in our business everyday? ·When I’m not there, does everyone know that your expectations don’t change? ·Do I allow gossip, disrespect, or undermining the business? ·Do I make sure that a “walk through” happens daily, assuming the role of our guest, from the parking lot to every inch of our business, making sure it is impeccably clean and comfortable (including the dress and hygiene of the staff)? · Do I confront conflict, protecting my staff when necessary? · Do I make sure all my staff takes part in continuing education (including customer service techniques)? ·Do I make my staff feel special daily and do I demand that they in turn make our clients feel special? ·Do I reward my staff regularly? ·Am I a role model, both in and out of the office, living these principles? Impossible? If we don’t try it, we may find ourselves wondering “what if.” Members of the AHLC care and are willing to help, are people who have been there done that and are willing to share their wealth of experience and wisdom. They are people who will inspire you to be the best you can be. Creating and fostering a culture of principle-centered customer service is not expensive. It’s priceless!

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Welcome our New and Renewed Members:
To become a member or renew contact Membership Director, Betty Ann Bugden, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.
Children With Hair Loss, South Rockwood, MI Regina Villemure founded CWHL after her niece, Sarah, a 28-year survivor, was diagnosed with Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia at the tender age of three. She underwent chemotherapy for five years. During Sarah's treatment, Regina had seen so many children that either didn't have hair or were wearing outdated synthetic wigs. Being in the hair industry, Regina knew that hair pieces were very expensive and most families could not afford human hair. She recognized a strong need to provide children who have medically related hair loss with human hair replacements. Giving was always an important part of Regina's life and after her niece's treatment it was all about seeing how she could use her own talent and experience to give back. She has made it her personal mission to “Cover Young Heads to Heal Young Hearts.” Since opening in 2000, CWHL has helped thousands of children with hair loss at no cost. Robert M. Bernstein, MD, Bernstein Medical Center for Hair Restoration, New York, NY Devoted to the diagnosis and treatment of hair loss using these state-of-the-art techniques. Dr. Bernstein is the recipient of the"Platinum Follicle Award" for his outstanding achievement in scientific and clinical research in hair restoration. Valerie Brown, The Work of My Hands Salon, Charlotte, NC Valerie has been a cosmetologist for 29 years. Valerie's goal is to give each client a personal and pleasant experience and to make each clients replacement look like a naturally grown head of hair. Valerie is the owner and manager of The Work of My Hands Salon and is also a licensed cosmetology instructor. Dan Brummel, Capilia, Madison, WI I have recently moved into a new and larger facility and joined the growing Capilia network. We offer total hair loss solutions. I have been certified as a Trichologist and offer scalp health and hair loss solutions, along with surgical hair restoration and non surgical solutions. Laura Cole, Abstrax, Toms River, NJ I have been working together with my mother for 37 years. We are currently working on our third relocation, so that we can provide our customers with the latest in technology and techniques, for men, women and children. Laura is also a recent AHLC Masters Certification recipient. David M. Fearing, New England Associates®, Wakefield, MA and Manchester, NH I started in this industry back in 1977 working for wholesalers and retailers in the Boston market at the ripe old age of nineteen. In 1982 I opened our first office that specialized in hair replacement. Since then my company has evolved to offer every successful method to replace, restore and grow lost hair including hair replacement, hair transplantation and laser hair therapy. My companies own the HairStart® and HairGiant® brands. Although the industry has experienced many challenges in these 35+ years, I have found it to be very rewarding in many ways.

Invisible Hair, Vista, CA Dissatisfied with the available methods for women, Dawn Harrison invented “Invisible Hair Grafting.” 15 years ago, it became Dawn’s obsession to develop a method of attachment like no other. She obtained two U.S. Patents for her unique method of attachment, as well as her “Invisible” hair additions in 2001. Dawn has built a very successful women’s hair replacement studio that focused on customized Hair Additions, Hair Grafting and Loyalty Programs. It is her “calling” to educate hair restoration professionals on the benefits of her revolutionary discovery. MD by Dr. Susan Lin, San Mateo, CA Founder and CEO, Dr. Susan Lin is a physician with over 20 years of experience in women's health, aesthetics, and anti-aging medicine. After receiving her medical degree from Boston University, Dr. Lin worked for many years in obstetrics and gynecology. The first hair regeneration technology product she created was MD Lash Factor, an immensely popular lash conditioner that is sold worldwide. Currently, Dr. Lin is both the owner and practitioner of MD Laser and Cosmetics in San Mateo, CA. MD by Dr. Susan Lin is a skin care and hair care company that focuses on anti-aging solutions. Her goal is to create safe, healthy, and effective products that provide real results. 6  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Nancy Hihar, Hair Styles Unlimited Salon & Spa, Kenner, LA In 1977 Nancy Hihar established Hair Styles Unlimited Salon & Spa and since then it has become a successful salon for all hair care needs. We entered the hair loss arena 15 years ago to offer solutions for all types of hair loss. Nancy was voted Volunteer Of The year by the New Orleans Chapter of the American Cancer Society (ACS) for her continued work with the ACS Look Good Feel Better program. Anderia Kowalski Elite Hair, Winter Park FL Johan Simantoub, Hair Restoration of California, Los Angeles and Woodland Hills, CA Established in 1990 HRC offers all proven hair loss solutions including FDA approved laser hair growth therapy, nonsurgical hair replacements, Virtuesse and Virtual Reality Hair, latest hair extensions methods, Hair Integrations and surgical Hair transplants by board certified plastic surgeons. We cater to individuals with all any type of hair loss including male/female pattern hair loss, children with hair loss, Medical related hair loss and individuals suffering from all types of Alopecia and Trichotillomania. Pura Estela Torres, Nuvida Hair Restoration Studio, Atlanta, GA A hair restoration specialist for 17 years and a master cosmetologist/educator Pura's passion for helping others comes through with every client she takes care of. We provides cutting edge, gentle, non-surgical methods of integrating hair additions and extensions to any type of existing natural hair in men and women. Her mission for her large and happy clientele is to keep them looking good. James Toscano, Toscano Hair Consultants, Belle Vernon, PA "The General" is the eighth generation of barbers in his family. He has been in the hair replacement industry since 1968. He started doing platform work for Crown Hairpieces in 1978 and since then has worked for New Image, Apollo, American Hairlines, Jon Renau and Hairart International. He is the leading authority on bonding and a recent AHLC Masters Certification recipient. Enata Marie Vestevich, Advanced Hair Solutions, Auburn Hills, MI Her experience spans 25 years in the cosmetology and hair replacement industry. AHS volunteers for the “Look Good ... Feel Better” program and is proud to be a member of AHLC, as well as other professional organizations. Patti Wood, Off 5th Avenue Salon, Bradenton, FL Established in 1997 as a small, private boutique salon. Patti specializes in hair color, hair extensions, hair replacement, and helping individuals who suffer from hair loss. Patti has over 35 years’ experience behind the chair and as an Educator and Trainer in the hair industry. She opened her first salon in 1982, the second in 1985. Patti’s daughter, Carli, was diagnosed alopecia areata in 2001. That is when Patti began taking classes and working with hair replacement. Today Patti is taking classes to become a certified Trichologist. She sees the gap with Dermatologists and cosmetologist and wants to provide services for clients suffering with hair loss.

Sara Lou Manning, Custom Design Hair Design, Rogers, AR Sara Lou has been a hairdresser for over 40 years. Her passion is to help people have the hair they want even when health or circumstances caused their hair to go away. She is excited to be able to learn from the best in the industry and align her business with professional companies. Myong Parr, Hairways, Woodmere, OH Myong has 28 years of experience in hair replacement and hair extensions for women and men. She also serves clients with medical hair loss. Imelda Ponce, Loving Locks Salon, San Antonio, TX I have been a licensed hairdresser in San Antonio since 1976. I take every opportunity to participate in continuing education classes to stay on top of the latest trends and products. In the early years of my career, wigs were very popular and a large part of my business involved cutting and styling wigs and hair additions. In the past few years several of my clients, including my own sister, have struggled with hair loss due to chemotherapy. In order to help them I completed the Alternative Hair Educational Program certified by Rene of Paris and On-Rite Hair Replacement Academy. Besides fitting wigs and hair additions, I also stay current on the latest breakthroughs in eyebrow and eyelash regrowth and enhancement. Angela Robinson, ADR Creative Hair, LLC, Maitland, FL ADR offers high-quality non-surgical hair replacement, hair extensions, and laser therapy at affordable prices. Angela loves working with clients and transforming their hair by helping them with a variety of options and solutions such as wigs, custom made cranial prosthesis and hair additions. Ertaç ŞENSOY, Nova Hair Systems International, Istanbul, Turkey As a result of my researches about hair loss that I had made due to the issue of hair annoyance I was having, I have seen the need about this subject in Turkey and in 1991 I decided to invest in the hair replacement business.

The Link Issue 6, 2013  7

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

“What a GREAT Conference! There were so many new faces and lots of past members reunited. All educators, vendors and displayers performed their classes and demonstrations to the utmost perfection. What a great opportunity for new members to be exposed to a wide variety of products and education with many companies, under one roof. The facility was packed, the food was great and the hotel was so accommodating that we have reserved it again for next year’s conference, May 3rd-5th, 2014. See you there!”

P E R Ü C K E N

W I G S

P E R R U Q U E S

P A R R U C C H E

P E L U C A S

IEew SIE rDN u RN O Eo D r R O F F l l Ca EN KATALOGE AN! NEUt alog
EUROPEAN HAR IMPORTS 1920 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Ft. Lauderdale, 33306 866-681-4247

Ca

– Peggy Thornhill, AHLC President

T R E N D S

The Link Issue 6, 2013  9

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

"Wow, what a conference. It was worth all the headaches and work. Great to see so many members, and the manufacturers that participated were A+. We have so much exposure to all that is new in the industry that I'm sure no one left saying that they didn't get something from the event. Hope to see all of you next year. Please, bring a friend. The more members, the more manufactures will come."

– Betty Bugden, AHLC Treasurer/Membership Director

"The conference was wonderful! It truly brought back memories of conferences from years ago when starting from the welcome reception the attendees were excited to meet new members and converse with the old members. Everyone sharing ideas and knowledge and all the presenters were so energized ! Thanks to everyone for a being part of a very successful conference."

– Susie Kettering, AHLC Executive Director

“We are so glad we decided to attend the AHLC’s conference for the first time this year. What a wonderful event! We met great people, and we made some valuable connections with the other attendees. The location was fantastic, and we could tell that the AHLC staff worked hard to create a smooth, fun, and educational event. The AHLC has great spirit and dedication, and we look forward to future events!”

– Sue McLaughlin, MD by Dr. Susan Lin, La Canada Ventures, Inc.

"The AHLC conference was a great industry conference with lots of education and networking. It was such a delight to see so many newcomers. The event sent a strong signal that the hair loss industry is poised for future growth."

– Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs Corp

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

“On Rite continues to enjoy participating and supporting the AHLC. The venue was impressive; Everyone seemed to enjoy the hotel, the reception, the food, high quality of education shared by all the vendors, and the excellent networking opportunity provided to all AHLC members. This is priceless.”

– Karla Hurtado, Business Development Associate, On Rite Company, Inc.

"Thanks to everyone at the American Hair Loss Council. The show was incredible as always. It is a great opportunity to meet new friends and reacquaint with old ones. The hotel was perfect and we really enjoyed the way our vendor booth was located in the middle of the presentations. It gave us an opportunity to really be part of the show. We are looking forward to next year. Keep up the good work."

– Randy Veliky, Chief Technology Officer, HairMax, Lexington Intl. LLC

“Having attended most American Hair Loss conferences in the past and speaking at many, I was very impressed at the recent conference held in Fort Lauderdale. I saw a new and invigorating resurgence as to the meaning of “teaching the formula for success.” We are in a rapidly changing and competitive market and it is crucial that we stay updated and informed as we move forward in the industry. The last AHLC meeting successfully spoke to the above issues. Thanks committee - well done!”

– Leigh Gardner, National Sales Manager, Capilia U.S.

“The American Hair Loss Council meeting was a fruitful meeting of our colleagues in the hair replacement business. It was good to hear industry leaders and meet with current and new business associates/customers.”

– Jackie Yu, President, HairArt Products

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

"What an exciting evening of dinner and dancing. Everyone met on the top floor of the Hyatt Recency for a 360-degree panorama view of Fort Lauderdale. DJ James kept us all taping our toes to our favorite songs. During the evening, master certifications were awarded to our deserving members. We also raised $4,000 for Children with Hair Loss through a vendor supplied auction. It was a night to remember."

– Joseph Ellis, AHLC Board Member

“All in all, a really great experience - serious and fun. The members of the board deserve a lot of credit.”

– Dale Aho, Co-owner, COO, Di Biase Hair, USA

"The HairUWear team representing American Hairlines and Raquel Welch Wigs reports a very successful and enjoyable weekend spent meeting with many of the expert hair loss professionals at the recent AHLC conference. HairUWear is already looking forward to exhibiting, as well as offering education at next year's conference!"

– Ken A. Baszto, Sales & Business Development Manager, American Hair Lines

Thanks to the AHLC for such a great conference! It was the best ever and felt like a family reunion. A huge “thank you” for the auction at dinner, with Lonnie and Jimmy (who did an amazing job), and to all who donated and bid. You’ve shown how generous our industry is especially when it comes to helping children with hair loss. PERFECT CONFERENCE, PERFECT LOCATION, PERFECT HOTEL, PERFECT MEALS! Can't wait for next year's conference.

Regina Villemure, Children With Hair Loss

12  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

State of the Industry with Andy Wright
by: Joseph Ellis & Betty Bugden

AHLC: The hair quality of workmanAndy: Over the past three years,

ship is way off. Could you explain why that is?

many things have gone astray because China is out of workers that want to work at that kind of low salaries they worked at for many years. Our products are very labor intensive. The base is the only part of it that is not labor intensive. Welding machines do that part. Other than that, everything else is labored. China is a one-child family. The new potential workers are more educated. In the ‘80s, China was really introduced to the western world. Education was still primitive. Unemployment was massive. A factory would put up a sign for a job or even a rumor of a job would bring 6,000 people outside the factory gates in hopes for work and they were ready to be trained.

raising and doting on their child. So, they may not come back to the industry. In turn, their child is now going to the universities. There are managers and supervisors in our industry telling their children to not go into this industry.

AHLC: Is that because you they can
now make more money somewhere else?

Andy: Yes, they are an industrialized

country now. Their workers now have a choice. Who doesn’t want to make more money? So, we are stuck with a labor intense industry and can’t afford to pay them the higher wages.

AHLC: But, isn’t it true that all the

experienced ventilators are leaving the factory for better paying jobs somewhere else?

A lot of the hair being bought is now being used for hair extensions.

come in and affected many industries. The electronics, automotive, shoe and carpet industries have all moved in. The carpet industry is very much like our industry. It is very labor intensive. Any time a lot of industries move into a country with high unemployment, the country allows it, because this puts their people to work. Even if the salaries are low, it’s money they didn’t have before. Since workers are usually happy to take any job, the country encourages industries to move in. Now, with the one child situation and an aging population, much has changed. The remaining workers are middle-aged and have only one child. They are busy 14  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

Andy: Number one, competition has

AHLC: So, with our industry, a worker

needs to have a lot of experience? We’re assuming that it takes 20 to 30 years to acquire that kind of experience to perform good quality workmanship? produce one top of the head within one week after a year or so of training.

Andy: Correct. A good worker will

AHLC: Are those workers staying until
they retire, because of the economy? Andy Wright: It is about half and half. They will probably stay and bleed out.

AHLC: So it’s more about the new kids
coming for work?

ages have left. As a result, we just cannot get enough workers. For instance, in the technologies industry; a cell phone may cost you about $200 to $500. They can afford to pay their workers because the volume is there because they sell millions of them. Factories are going to other countries with high unemployment. For instance, if you guys try and set up another retail salon hundreds of miles away and you are traveling to train the new workers to do everything, it becomes very difficult. At your current location, you still have skilled workers that have been there for years. Now, they are opening up in a different area and starting training from scratch. The work is back to primitive again. It takes at least a year to get their skills and expertise up and running. It is a long training period. If you look at deliveries two years ago or even a year ago while comparing it to now, they are much faster. The backlog during the transition was painful. Thankfully we have moved through it. But, I don’t know what kind of run we are going to have. In other words, when we were in Korea, we had a 15-year run. In China, we had a strong 25-year run. So, think about your own retail center and you trained up your staff. You will have 25 years with some off those staff members. So 1985 to 2010 was a good long run. We all became so blooming happy and so standardized. What was so perfect? We were perfect and would expect perfect results. It went from good to “who the heck is doing this now.” That is the transition we are going through. The Philippines have been in it, but they have never been a major producer. They were very limited, even in the heyday. It costs twice as much in the Philippines. Workers could only produce half of what could be done in

Andy: Yes. So mid-range and existing

The Link The Voice of the AHLC
China. Philippines never became a powerhouse. Indonesia is a strong power, but I would say that we say we only have two more years or a maximum of five more years there because salaries are going up fast. That is why some factories are now moving to Cambodia and North Korea. North Korea has high unemployment, but they will only let a supervisor or manager in for two weeks at a time. Everywhere the supervisor goes, there is a security guard with him and it’s not because of danger for the supervisor. They just want to make sure what he is up to. They also only allow Chinese workers in, no one else. Training becomes very difficult. This is the kind of world we are now stuck in. On the other hand, we also have the cost of hair that is changing. It’s not bad in some hair replacements. What are going up are the salaries of the hair replacement industry. They send the hair to the prisons for the prisoners to separate the white hair out of the grey. They would be there all day, carefully separating out the hair that would give them natural white hair. When China joined the trade organization, one of the regulations was that you could not use unfair labor, which really changed everything. They had to stop all the prison labor. They even had factories in the prisons. The cost of the labor was extremely low. That was about 2002. So, now who is going to sit there and pick out the white hair out of the bundles of hair. Now what is happening

Andy: The ventilating may stabilize

for next three to five years, but long hair will continue to go through the roof. There is no stopping the increased prices for long hair. The hair extensions business is using a massive amount and this market is rapidly growing. They are looking for synthetic hair to fill the gaps. Are we going to begin to out-price our clients? Who knows? Mankind seems to have a limit on spending in general. The drive is to move factories to other countries to lower costs, which in turn will affect you and your clients

L-R: Betty Ann Bugden, Andy Wright and Joseph Ellis

AHLC: So the actual cost of hair is not
increasing? is in abundance of supply at 6 inches or less. Once you get up into 10 to 14 inches, 20% of that is really 6 inches and only about 25% of that hair is in 14 to 18 inches in length. So, the factories hackle the hair to separate the different lengths. A lot of the hair being bought is now being used for hair extensions. But long hair has gone up massively. Anything over 10 inches is a struggle. When you get up to 16–24 inches you might as well go open your bank account up.

Andy: Look at it this way. Short hair

AHLC: And we do! Andy: These days, we have to ask the AHLC: We are also finding that it is

factory if they even have the longer hair for our orders.

hard to get white human hair that is 10 inches long or more.

Andy: That is a long story all in itself.

Briefly, our honeymoon in China was for 25 years. They were doing everything. What they do is purchase hair from India and do their own collections.

is you are getting bleached white hair that is not the same at all. You may end up with an inferior quality of hair and it will change color by oxidation and on and on. They are to bleach it up from black hair, which is a whole different challenge. So we are going back to you to say that we may only have synthetic white hair because, human white hair is not available in mass quantities. Labor is the primary challenge and the availability of long hair is another. Labor moving to other countries is still another challenge. In the past, density did not matter. But now, if you want 50,000 of 150,000 hairs, you must pay extra for it. The labor costs more.

AHLC: Income varies throughout the
country. Some areas do not have a lot to spend within their income bracket. With our prices increasing, you may lose clients that cannot afford the increase.

2011 with labor issues, we saw there was a lot of bad hair quality. What was the reason for that?

Andy: It is certainly a challenge! AHLC: So during the time of 2010 to

Andy: In the ‘60s up until about 1990,
the collection system for hair worked. In China, hair was not your property. It belonged to the government. You had to go to an inspection station, as a woman with a card and have your card

AHLC: Do you see the prices leveling
out now?

The Link Issue 6, 2013  15

The Link The Voice of the AHLC
punched. They would determine if your hair was cut or not. If you qualified for a length that was in demand, they would cut it. The hair was property of the China. China’s card system has broken down. Now, people in those countries are cutting and coloring their hair for fashion. India had the temples, for religious and coming-of-age rituals. If you wanted to give an extreme sacrifice, you would come to the temple to have your hair sacrificed to the gods. India’s economy is also growing. The whole world is changing. The 10 cents they used to get for their hair is not needed anymore. They are wealthier. The biggest thing now is called brushed hair; taking the brushes and collecting the hair in brushes. They put the hair in a bag and sell it when the guy comes to their area collecting hair. So in China, that is the biggest supply source. India has not slowed down from the sacrifice donations, but it seems that some shortage is coming from the women who are becoming more modern. Everybody is trying to stretch the hair supply, because now it is in high demand. They may add in some synthetic to the human hair to make it go further. The demand is there. In the ‘80s, they would beg you to buy the hair. Now, they really don’t need to beg. In the ‘90s, you were putting bids in on hair and you could not even inspect it. Furthermore, while factories are moving to new countries, the art form of making a hair system has become diluted. The training takes time to master. Everything seems to be working against us currently.

Andy: We should level out for about
five years. China had the discipline and attention to detail. They were masters of coping. Climate in a country is very important too. If the country is too humid, the polyurethane cannot cure properly. The factories have never gone into south China, because the climate there is too warm. We are now looking at Africa, but we are not sure if it will work. China had such a huge unemployment rate, it is hard to replicate that kind of success. With the Internet, workers can also see what the salaries are in other places. It changes in so many different places.

AHLC: It is hard when you have a vetAndy: I encourage you to let us know

eran client that has been wearing hair for a long time. They notice the changes and how the prices are now increasing.

what problems are happening, so we can relay the issues to the factories. These details help them know what is working. future?

AHLC: That defines things a little bit
better. Maybe now we can be a bit more compassionate towards the manufacturers, while understanding the bigger picture and the different components that makes the final product. Thank you for sharing all of your special insight.

AHLC: What is your projection of the

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The Link Issue 6, 2013  17

A Client Speaks Out
by: James Hanlon
I started losing my hair around the age of 19, while I was in college and it just continuously got worse while I entered my twenties. It bothered me so much whenever I had to go somewhere in public.

Consultations for Men
by: Grant Gunderson
Hair loss between men and women is very different, so your consultations should also be different. Although there are some inherent similarities, as it is in nearly any comparison of the two sexes, men are simple. Consultations for men are a chance to both educate and make a difference in some guy’s life. Getting them on the right treatment program will allow you to gain more male clients who aren’t quite ready, either physically (having too much hair), or mentally. You can extend the life of their natural hair and gain their trust over the years until they are ready to wear hair. A typical male consultation should cover the following: Background Information • Age • Heredity • Health • Recent Life changes Explored Options? • Observations • Hairloss pattern • Norwood Scale rating • Existing hair quantity and quality Explore Options • Client is young, just showing early stages of thinning • Client has moderate signs of loss (thinning, recession, etc.) • Client shows significant signs of loss and is not a good candidate for transplant Give the client your opinion of his best solution YOU are the expert, that’s why this guy took the time to do something that is worse than buying a used car from an anxiety standpoint. Take the time to explain why you believe in your solution, even if you don’t yet offer that solution. For example, if you don’t offer transplants, make arrangements with someone in town that does and set up a referral plan that serves your client, AND still makes you some money. If there’s no one in your area, find a fellow member from the AHLC that DOES offer all options and negotiate a referral.

I would have to figure out a hairstyle that would mask my thinning hair. Then I got into trying different products, which never really seemed to work. I was envious of every guy that had perfect, thick hair and wished that my hair could look like that. Eventually, I found Betty Ann Bugden’s Total Image Design and it changed my life drastically. I have so much more confidence with my new hair than I had before. It was a simple procedure and it didn’t take long at all. As long as you keep up with your appointments and take care of your hair, it’s a great investment!

Photo by Kim Mentusky

I want to thank Betty Ann so much for giving me back my confidence.

18  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

THE LATEST MARKETING TOOLS TO ASSIST YOU TO PROSPECT AND SELL GREAT HAIR TO TODAY’S DISCERNING MALE CLIENTS

GREAT HAIR FOR MEN BY NEW IMAGE

The hair loss industry with its innovative product offerings is uniquely positioned to be a prime solution provider for men, suffering from all forms of thinning hair and baldness. Today’s innovative hair systems are more realistic and natural than ever before. No surgery, not laser, no creams – these hair systems provide an instant and non-invasive solution to hair loss. In the USA alone, over 40 million men suffer from male pattern baldness. Approximately 25 percent of men begin balding by age 30; two-thirds begin balding by age 60. This trend is on the rise, as stressful lifestyles, poor diet, lack of exercise all contribute to more severe hair loss in even younger men. With this potential, why are they not flocking to your studio, those male prospects? Once they are in your studio, why don’t they sign readily on the dotted line and become lifelong clients? Be smart and learn to speak their language. Never again use “dream killers” in your consultation. Understand the real need and psychology behind a male client and apply your knowledge for an easy close. In your marketing materials, use images that are appealing to male clients and speak more than thousand words. Why investing your time and money in developing all these marketing materials? Let New Image help you with that. New Image has made this investment for you and with the “Great Hair for Men” marketing tools, we can offer comprehensive, up-to-date, and best of all – reasonably priced – marketing help for you:

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The Great Hair for Men brochure warmly introduces the consumer to the program. This marketing collateral features before and after photos of real Great Hair users to truly illustrate the benefits. This brochure is a perfect take-away to put in the hands of consumers and keep them thinking about contacting you. There are two versions of the brochure. One version features a QR code that the user can scan with a smart phone and they will be immediately directed to our Great Hair For Men video. The other version does not incorporate this technology feature.

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The Re-Birth of the Men’s Hair Replacement Business
by: Barbara Goldstein, Media Power Advertising

t my When recently asked abou ir reha enthusiasm for the men’s placement business, my answer was simple. “The stars have aligned!”
with It actually has more to do d the profile statistics, research data an n: Generation Y of the younger generatio a.k.a. “The Millennials.”

to support the key’ kids when moms started working e up the family Boomer lifestyles and/or divorce brok generation unit. Having less parental guidance, this goals of their was rebellious and negative towards the Michael Jorparents. Lead by the heavy influence of other sports and dan, Bruce Willis, Sean Connery, and onse to hair loss movie stars, shaving your head in resp with a population became popular. Shaved heads along gical advancebase of only 46 million and the technolo ’s hair replacement for hair transplantation, the men ‘90s. ment business declined rapidly in the

Top 5 Reasons to be Optimistic:
The Size Of The New Generation
and into Baby Boomers, born in the late ‘40s, ‘50s acement repl hair of the ‘60s, were behind the growth million 80 over of m of the ‘80s. This population boo than off’ er bett be to entered adulthood determined ess, succ e mor have ey, their parents, to make more mon men For ger. youn look own more, enjoy life more and r father, was losing their hair, looking older, like thei a toupee) not (it’s t not an option. Hair Replacemen ember rem I . men became the secret to hair loss for .A rang ne pho the all we had to do was run ads and day Sun on NYC in ges $50 spot during the Three Stoo on off Cut. calls 100 mornings generated more than This . lead per $30 eded advertising was when cost exce ced oun ann Club was about the time that Sy at Hair “I’m also a client”. eration Unfortunately, the next generation, Gen imistic. pess very and ’s X, was half the size of Boomer h ‘latc the were they , Born in the early ‘60s and ‘70s n emerged: Born in the ‘80s and ‘90s, a new generatio ials, this enn Mill d Generation Y. Preferring to be calle ion, erat Gen Echo generation is also known as the at 76 s mer Boo as because it is almost the same size re. futu r thei of ic million and they are more optimist now are they , Currently in their 20’s and mid-30’s entering into starting to experience thinning hair and our consumer base.

Changing Hair Styles of The Rich and Famous

Justin Bieber, Thanks to young music artists such as styles for hair few) a e Joe Jonas, and Skrillex (to nam ge and chan ions Fash n. men have become popular agai ring wea of y bilit flexi now the younger men want the

20  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

different styles. Look at David Beckham, who has a different style in every picture of him; and other sexy soccer players such as Fernando Torres from Spain, Nicklas Bendtner from Denmark and Carlo s Bocanegra from the US. Actors such as Judd Law with his faux Mohawk, Brad Pitt, Zac Efron, and Jacks on Rathbone, all love the flexibility of different hair styles. After 20 years, hair is in for men! And what better way for a balding man to have different hair styles than with hair replacement and hair exten sions!

retailers. Now with affordable developmental costs for websites and social media sites, the internet has leveled the playing field. A small player can compete with the giant. Furthermore, with search engine mark eting such as pay-per-click and banner display ad camp aigns, a smaller business can take advantage of the activ ity driven to the internet by the mass media campaigns of the larger brands.

Looking back at the pictures of hair replacement in the ‘80s, it looked like hair helmets! Advancements in the product with disposable hair, lace, extensions, etc allows for hair replacement to honestly be undetectable.

Advancements In The Hair Products

In addition to the consumer base getting larger as The Millennials age, other demographics are favor able for our client base. For example, for US household s with income over $75,000, 43% of them are men aged 25-44. Of all males in the US, 15% are affluent, white collar workers making over $100,000 a year. Howe ver 20.1% of men aged 25-44 are affluent, white collar workers making over $100,000 a year. Higher incom e most likely is a result of higher education. Appr oximately 24% of total men have one college degre e compared to 30% for men 25-44. Single and/or advan ced degrees apply to 40% of total men; and 45.7% of men 25-44. Most encouraging was the response to the resea rch question asked by Media Audit’s national research in November, 2012. Question: “Will You Be Better off Financially in Six Months?” 37.6% of total men agreed; while 47.6% of Men 25-44 agreed.

Younger Market Is Financially Optimistic

The younger generation even views television differently than their elders. Two-thirds of men, 25-44 , report multi-tasking accessing the internet while watching TV. Their key activities include shopping, social networking, searching for more info relate d to TV shows, checking out product information as seen on TV and looking for coupons and deals as seen on TV. Although they spend less time viewing telev ision (approximately 3 hours per day versus older demo at 8 hours per day), they are ‘involved’ consumers . Engage them and they will be loyal to your prod uct and services! My optimism is based on so many key factors falling in place: A larger consumer segment, who are better educated and earning more money, with technology that engages them, at a time when hair is fashionable, with the best product we’ve ever had.

Technology Has Changed Social and Media Habits
Based on research provided by AC Nielsen, 82% of consumers search for information on the internet before making a major purchase decision or visiting a retail outlet. Of men, 25-44, 88% are active on the internet (only 12% do not have access) and 20% of their internet time is spent in social media. This drives the importance of having an effective webs ite and social media presence. In the past, expensive television commercials separated the biggest brand s and

The Link Issue 6, 2013  21

Look, How Far We Have Come!
Loss Business The Evolution of the Men’s HairLabs Corp
by: Elvira Amankwa, CMP, New Image

“Progress is impossible without change.”
There is a lot of truth in George Bernard Shaw’s famous quote. Looking back at the hair loss industry, many changes have taken place over the years. And those of you who have been in the business for any number of years might agree with Frederick Douglass when he says, “If there is no struggle, there is no progress.” So struggle, change and progress seem to go hand in hand. As we embrace them on our journey, they are oftentimes accompanied by great opportunity and sweet success. Join me on a trip down memory lane. We will make different “stops” on our journey and look at what has changed in the hair loss industry. From the hair production, to the product, to the price, to the client, to the marketing, to the hair loss professional - change has been inevitable and a powerful agent to propel us to the next level as an industry. Hopefully you will enjoy the journey and some of the things mentioned will put a smile on your face. I am sure you will remember your very own encounters with struggle, change, and progress, resulting in success and opportunity as we explore different aspects of the hair loss business now and then.

In the past, the hair production centers were mainly in Korea and Haiti. Production was not as advanced back then and there were many challenges Remember platform shoes, flared to get useable hair systems from pants and pleated shirts? Oh, yes those production centers. Some – back then fashion was elaborate of you might remember when and ornate. And so were the hair that came out of Haiti. But hairstyles. Lots of hair was worn, what was lacking in quality was made up by the fact that hair was the more the better. The “hair helmets” were heavy and not readily and cheaply available. A really comfortable to wear. Back seasoned hair loss professional then, we were in the “toupee” once shared with me, “We were business. Today, they are called riding a wave that we thought “hair systems” or “hair options”. would end at some point. So we We don’t sell hair, but “restore were riding it hard. I think we self-confidence.” Workmanship were all somewhat surprised to has been refined considerably see that it turned into an actual and hair systems today are of business and later into a dedithe highest quality. Some hair cated industry.” systems are even disposable and all are more realistic than ever. Today, the production scenario is very different. Advanced production facilities, mainly in China, are supplying our industry with hair. The work force there is becoming increasingly sophisticated. It is getting more difficult to secure a continuous supply of hair and some manufacturers have started to locate alternate production centers. Production costs are increasing abroad and

Stop #1: Production

manufacturers are challenged to keep prices low in a time of slow economic recovery at home.

Stop # 2: Product

22  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

Innovation has made it possible to create the illusion that hair is growing out of the scalp and we proudly show off the hairline with a sleek and clean look. Our clients take showers, do sports, and swim, all in a hair system, just as they would do with their own natural hair. How did we attach all that hair in the heydays? With clips, of course, lots of clips for lots of hair! And who does not remember the “fusion technique” to attach a hair system? It gradually advanced into today ’s perimeter and full-head bond with scientifically developed adhesives. We now offer special adhesives for sensitive skin, as well as bonding enhancers to keep the odor on the scalp low and the pH-balance of the scalp up. Thanks to innovative adhesive removers and scalp preparation products, cleaning and bonding has become a breeze – for you and the client.

roughly $100. Today, cost of sale can be as much as $1500 or more. In the late ‘70s and ‘80s, there was no program hair. An average hair system would retail from $1,500 to $3,000. Today the average price for a system is $500. Although this price is lower, program hair allows you to book clients at regular inter vals to have the hair serviced and maintained, which creates a profit center for many hair loss studios.

Now, let’s have a look at the centerpiece of all our efforts, the typical male client. In the past, the typical male client was 25-40 years old, a blue-collar worker with middle class income or less. He was struggling advance his career, his selfconfidence needed some bolstering and he probably went through a life-changing event like divorce or a new job. He was expecting a “magic pill,” an immediate solution to his hair loss problem. Today, the typical male client is 25–50 years old and still middleclass income earner with self-esteem issues. He is very conscious about his looks and his appearance. What has changed significantly is that Generation X (33–48 years old) and Generation Y (13–32 years old) clients are well informed about our studios and services before they even enter our shop. They don’t trust us for their hair (= looks) with a handshake as in the past, but they want convincing facts and figures presented to them in a way they can relate to, preferably presented on an iPad during the consultation. They read online reviews about us and visit our website before they even consider doing business with us.

Stop #4: Client

Let’s look at ourselves – the average hair loss professional. There are a lot of seasoned professionals in the industry at this point. The typical age of an owner is 50–60 and a typical technician is 40–50. Some newcomers have been joining our ranks, brining fresh blood into the industry. Generally speaking, there is a high level of proficiency in the hair loss industry, which is an asset to serve today ’s demanding male clients. Today, approximately 25% of men begin balding by the age of 30. We are looking at a strong Gen X and Gen Y client segment. The struggle and the opportunity for the future lay in how well we change and adjust to the demands of these younger male clients. We need to not only be proficient at doing hair, but also become pros at communicating with and marketing to Gen X and Gen Y clients. We need to understand and speak their language and seek them out where they congregate, that is mainly online. Then progress will be made and success will be on the horizon. Yes, look where we have come from and what evolution we have undergone! But the hair loss industry does not stop here. Let’s learn from our past and become excited about what’s ahead of us. Struggle, change, progress, opportunity and success - it’s ours for the taking!

Stop #5: Hair Loss Professional

Many of us will doubtlessly become melancholy when we think of the cost of sale and the pricing in days gone by. Depending on how far back you go, the average cost of sale was

Stop #3: Cost of Sale and Pricing

Happy journeying to all of us!

The Link Issue 6, 2013  23

At-Home Laser Therapy as a Profit Center
by: Randy Veliky, Chief Technology Officer, International, LLC
The Hair Loss industry is already a $3.5 billion market and continues to increase as the population ages. With the growing demand for safe and effective non-surgical treatments, studios are looking for a real hair loss solution to offer their clients. Seeking out these customers and offering a viable, cost effective product is a tremendous opportunity, to provide your clients with an up sell service and for you to earn an excellent profit. Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT) is an exciting breakthrough treatment for hair loss and thinning hair. Many studio owners are offering laser hair growth systems in their studio. Laser Hair growth is a safe and effect treatment to help grow your customers hair and add significant revenue to your bottom line. Currently there are 3 laser devices that have been clinically tested and Cleared by the FDA to treat hair loss. The HairMax LaserComb® was the first home-use device cleared by the FDA for men and women. The MEP 90 is a studio-based system where your clients are treated at your facility. And recently the iGrow has been FDA Cleared for men only, but currently requires a prescription. Laser treatments deliver nourishing light can be offered to complement studio treatments and for long term maintenance. For example, your client can have a weekly appointment in your studio, and use a home-use device for the other 2-3 required weekly treatments. This combination saves time, is more convenient and improves results by improving compliance. Depending on the specific laser used, individual treatments are energy to stimulate hair follicles and promote hair growth without any reports of serious side effects. Laser therapy can be used in combination with other hair loss treatments and after hair transplant surgery. Many studios already offer inhouse lasers that incorporate a hooded system. Home–use devices required 2-3 per week and take as little as 15 or 20 minutes. As with any hair loss treatment, continued use is required or the hair loss condition can revert back to its’ original state. Best results are achieved during a long-term series of treatments. For a multi-therapeutic approach, offer wet line products for additional hair growth benefits to your clients and recurring income for your business. Sulfate free, low pH, phytic acid based shampoo can help to prevent build-up of sebum on the scalp and allow for better absorption of laser light energy. Look for topical scalp treatments formulated with DHT blockers including 5a-reductase inhibitors and copper peptides, which are known to extend the hair growth phase. Niacinamide and caffeine are also ingredients that may stimulate blood flow in and around the hair follicle. As hair loss can also result from nutritional deficiencies, dietary supplements with biotin are another source of residual income. The nutritional needs for hair growth differ for men and women so be sure to look for formulas designed specifically for each. Male formulas should include androgen-blocking ingredients like beta Sistosterol, niacin and saw palmetto. For females, look for supplements that contain Soy Isoflaven (instead of saw palmetto) and iron.

24  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

Tips to successfully launch revolutionary laser therapy in your studio: Reach Out:
Send out an email blast letting your clients know you offer Low Level Laser Therapy, explaining its benefits and inviting them to come in for a demo.

Show it off:
Ask the manufactures if they offer marketing materials for your use and proudly display them. Because hair loss is such a sensitive topic, consider using semi-private area to educate or consult with clients.

Educate:
There are many un-accredited hair loss treatments on the market that simply do not work. This makes it confusing for your clients to make the best choice to treat hair loss. Offering only FDA Cleared laser treatments will give your clients confidence in you and in the treatment. Don’t jeopardize your reputation.

Use technology:
Seeing is believing. Display galleries of hair loss “before and after” photos and testimonial videos from happy laser users.

Offer Incentives:
Offer special add-ons for clients such as scalp exfoliation or scalp massage or conditioning treatments or a percentage off their next visit. Be creative!

Use the Media:
There is a lot of media coverage on national TV programs, magazines and newspapers about laser therapy for hair loss. Use them to help you in your marketing efforts. The aging population and the growing acceptance of laser light hair loss treatments will contribute to steady growth for the industr y. Now is the time to get started and become a key player by offering the most technologically advanced treatments available.

a laser device that is REMEMBER: It is important to use There are many devicproperly registered with the FDA. proper FDA registraes on the market that do not have the ther it is a medical detion. Keep in mind, regardless of whe MUST BE REGISTERED. vice or a cosmetic device, ALL LASERS ed, you are opening If the laser you are selling is not register FDA decides to recall yourself up for liability problems. If the left refunding your the unregistered devices, you will be a reimbursement from customer’s money and fighting to get ered device. Protect the company that sold you the unregist y of their laser safety yourself. Ask the manufacturer for a cop Remember every laser report and CDRH Accession number. is medical or cosmetic. device must be registered whether it : http://www.fda.gov/ More information can be found here cproductradiationconradiation-emittingproducts/electroni /default.htm trolprogram/gettingaproducttomarket

The Link Issue 6, 2013  25

Creating an Invisible Hairline
BLEACHING KNOTS
by: Peggy Thornhill

1

Notice the dark knots showing and causing an unnatural appearance. This can easily be corrected. Here’s how.

2

Prepare the mannequin head for the hair system using large T-pins that will be placed in the front area near the hairline and back 2-4 inches. Push pins into the mannequin head leaving about a 1-inch rise from the head to the top of the T- pin.

3

Place hair system upside down and resting on the T-pins. Make sure hairline hair has been brushed back under the front edge of the hairpiece and front overlaps the pins.

4

Gently with palm of hand lightly shift hairpiece back and forth to allow T-pin to get through the underling hair. Do not press too hard.

26  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

Hair systems that have a lace base and are darker in color sometimes look unnatural in the front and along the hairline. This is due to the knots showing and causing an unnatural appearance. This can easily be corrected by using the following procedure

to bleach the underlying knots at the base. Some factories do this during the manufacturing process, however it sometimes is not quite enough. You will need a mannequin head, large T-pins and a desk lamp or manicure table lamp.

5

Mix up a dry bleach application using 40 volume developer to a “paste” consistency. Too thin of an application may bleed through the system. You’ll only need a small amount of bleach.

6

Using an acid brush or some type of a firm bristle brush (regular color application brushes may be too heavy and too large). Brush bleach on to the base of the front hairline for about an inch or two and following around to the side. Apply several coats to make sure bleach is slightly into the base but not through enough to reach the hair on the underside.

7

Use a desk lamp or manicure table lamp with a regular incandescent 100 watt bulb. Put the mannequin head, with the system on it, under the lamp and close to, but not touching, the light bulb. Time under the lamp may vary between 5 to 15 minutes according to the hair and type of bleach applied so check the process often.

8

Shampoo, attach, style and wear. No dark knots! Your clients will love you!

The Link Issue 6, 2013  27

Living With Alopecia Universalis
by: Matt Kelly, NAAF Support Group Leader
I considered myself a toughminded businessman, having just opened my fourth retail sports memorabilia store in the San Francisco Bay Area. Then my life changed drastically, at the age of thirty-eight, when, over the span of six weeks, I lost every hair on my body. Eyebrows, eyelashes, a full head of hair—all gone. My early experiences with alopecia areata universalis sent me into a deep depression. There were many tearful moments. One such moment occurred when I looked into the mirror and realized that the reflection that was looking back at me was shockingly different. It was like losing an old friend, only that old friend was me. Another tearful moment occurred while I was walking my dog on a breezy day. I suddenly realized that I might never again experience the pleasant sensation of the wind blowing through my hair. There are too many other low moments to list here. By the time most people reach the age of thirty-eight, life has already thrown them a few curve balls, and I was no exception. I had experienced setbacks before, but nothing in my life had come close to the emotionally devastating experience of having alopecia areata universalis. Getting alopecia areata was like getting a body blow from Mike Tyson. I was knocked down for the count. My lack of hair made me feel unattractive, and I thought everyone was staring at me. I felt overwhelmed, stressed, and traumatized. And I was a grown man living in a society where bald men are increasingly common! Just imagine how difficult having alopecia areata must be for young child, or a teenage girl entering high school. cause, there is no known cure, and there is no common progression. All my hair could come back tomorrow, or it could never come back. No one knows what will happen or why. I felt like I had come to a dead end until I went to the offices of Dr. Vera Price at the University of California, San Francisco. She was the first doctor who seemed to understand what I was feeling. Dr. Price wasn’t able to offer me a cure, but she did hand me a NAAF Newsletter and she told me about the annual international NAAF conference. That one NAAF newsletter, handed to me by the Founding Chairman of NAAF, was the first step toward the only “cure” I have been able to find for alopecia areata. The only reliable and effective treatment that currently exists for this disease focuses on healing its emotional effects, and NAAF provided all the tools for me to get this treatment. In the back of that NAAF newsletter was a list of NAAF support contacts all around the world. I called the number of one of the San Francisco–area contacts, Fred Wahl, and for the first time I learned that I was not alone. Talking with other people going through the same experience is vitally important to the recovery process. Group therapy works. No one fully understands what having

Initially I determined to defeat the condition with everything modern medicine had to offer. Throughout my first year with alopecia areata universalis, I bounced around from doctor to doctor and treatment to treatment . . . and I came to realize that the sum total of the medical community’s knowledge of alopecia areata is this: There is no known

28  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

alopecia areata is like unless they have experienced it. My parents, my friends, trained psychiatrists, and dermatologists couldn’t help me like others with alopecia areata could.

And how would we alopecians would find each other if it weren’t for NAAF? I’ve often wondered how it can be that almost two percent of The second NAAF conference that the population has alopecia areata I attended was held in Washington, and I can’t find another alopecian DC in 2007. NAAF had arranged for anywhere? I have felt at times like I those of us in attendance to meet am stranded on a deserted island, all with members of Congre ss to spread alone. Alopecians are good at keepawareness about alopecia areata, and ing a low profile! But NAAF brings being part of a group of 600 people us all together through its various marching onto Capitol Hill was truly programs. inspiring. It was during this group My yearly trek to the annual inter- effort that I first began to think that national NAAF conference is one of if NAAF can continue to subsidize the more emotionally uplifting week- research grants and get the word ends of my year. It is very helpful for out there, then maybe, just maybe, a me to see other people dealing with cure for alopecia areata can be found. alopecia areata, particularly younger people. When I see a young kid dealWhen I returned from DC to ing with this condition, it gives me my hometown, I was so fired-up perspective. I know that if a child that I was able to convince my local can be okay with it, then I can be Representative, Anna Eshoo (D-Palo okay with it. Alto), to co-introduce H.R. 5936, which allows alopecia areata patients NAAF support group meetings receiving Medicaid to be covered for have also been key elements of my prosthetic hair pieces. The two words recovery process. I have made a alopecia areata are now on a Bill that whole new set of lifelong friends has been introduced into the United at these NAAF functions. And the States government!

Charlie’s Angels program enables me to get my sports fix while seeing young Alopecians in my area. Charlie Villanueva has got to be the nicest star in the NBA, and he has turned the lemons of alopecia areata into lemonade. Alopecia areata is a curse, but it can also build strong character.

NAAF has inspired me to help out in this way because it has given me hope that things can be better for those suffering with alopecia areata. NAAF is out there fighting the fight for all of us. And if we all chip in, great things can happen. Today I accept my alopecia universalis, and I am okay with it. My life has taken a dramatic turn, and now my life’s ambition is to help other people who are suffering from alopecia areata and some of life’s other difficulties. In 2009 I went back to graduate school to be a counselor. I am a NAAF support contact person, and one day each week I volunteer my time at NAAF’s San Rafael offices, helping out in whatever way I can. I have seen from the inside what NAAF is doing to help alopecians around the world. No matter how happy we say we are, I think most alopecians would love to have their hair back. If that cure is to come about, it will start with more NAAF-sponsored research. NAAF cannot do this without the generous support of its constituents. Individually, we can’t find a cure to alopecia areata, but collectively, with the help of NAAF, we have a chance.

the Detroit Pistons Charlie Villanueva of Also has alopecia areata

San Francisco support group lead er Fred Wahl

The Link Issue 6, 2013  29

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Impacts of Deregulation in the Beauty Industry
by: Myra Irizarry, PBA Director of Government Affairs

Cosmetology Licensing Under Attack
rules and regulation, is not an industry with roadblocks and barriers to success, it is strong and growing. Members of the professional beauty industry have invested in a serious and legitimate career field. Safety standards and professionalism in the beauty industry should never be weakened or compromised. risk of injuries, burns, and the spread of communicable diseases, such as hepatitis, staph infections, warts, lice, and scalp diseases. Without proper oversight and regulation, both consumers and professionals could suffer major health consequences. The industry’s regulations exist to ensure proper training and education, and to protect the public. The push for deregulation is unwarranted in the beauty industry.

T

he threat of deregulation has become a persistent issue for the beauty industry. As lawmakers across the United States look for any and all ways to do away with what they deem as “unnecessary regulations,” cosmetology licensing has been placed under the microscope.

Multiple states have introduced legislation throughout 2012 and in the first session of 2013 to detrimentally change cosmetology licensing and regulations: many have pushed for a complete deregulation of the beauty industry in their state.

PROTECTING THE CONSUMER
The practices of the beauty industry are hands on, physical, and personal. Infections can begin and be transferred in many ways, including through contact with clippers, headrests, pedicure bowls, manicure tables, files, razors, and unwashed hands. Formal education and industry regulation is necessary for a professional to learn the techniques, principles, sanitation, and chemical procedures to safeguard consumers and themselves against injury and illness. In a first-of-its-kind independent national study conducted in 2012, general election voters from across the U.S. overwhelmingly supported the required licensing of cosmetologists: • 94% support requiring licenses, acknowledging that professional licenses protect the public and improve quality and safety. • 80% say that beauty professionals have to attend school in order to receive a license. • 74% say that learning proper techniques for handling tools and chemicals is a requirement. • 82% say safety would decline and 76% say quality would decline without licensing. If deregulation of the cosmetology industry becomes a reality, any person without formal education could practice cosmetology, putting consumers at

GET INVOLVED
Stand up for your profession! You have the knowledge and power to speak out against licensing supporters, educate clients on the importance of seeing a licensed professional, and let legislators in your state know that education and regulations of this hands-on industry are essential to consumer safety. The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) wants all beauty professionals to get involved in the laws governing our industry. Visit www.probeauty.org/advocacy to learn how you can get involved in the PBA State Captains Grassroots Program and request a free “I Am A Professional” window cling and information cards to help educate your clients on the importance of seeing a licensed professional. Myra Irizarry is the Director of Government Affairs for the Professional Beauty Association (PBA). PBA advances the professional beauty industry by providing our members with education, charitable outreach, government advocacy, events and more. PBA is the largest organization of salon professionals with members representing salons and spas, distributors, manufacturers and beauty professionals/ NCA. Visit www.probeauty.org or call 800.468.2274 (480.281.0424) for more information. The Link Issue 6, 2013  31

WHAT’S BEING SAID
The field of cosmetology is not being valued as a legitimate and professional career choice. Licensing opponents believe cosmetology practices don’t require the skills meriting formal education or training: In a nutshell, the requirement of an education, an exam, and a license denies would-be cosmetologists the right to earn a living by wasting valuable time in school when they could be out in the world making money right now. In this view, cosmetology licensing is seen as a regulatory roadblock for individuals wishing to enter into the cosmetology industry; a barrier and means to prevent market competition.

THE TRUTH
There are 1,098,000 professionals in the beauty industry and, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics (BLS) Occupational Outlook Handbook, overall employment is expected to grow 14 percent from 2010 to 2020, as fast as the average for all occupations. The professional beauty industry, under current

LOOK AMAZING FEEL AMAZING

John Vincent

Exclusive North America Agent office: 805 597-3004 cell: 407-257 4776 [email protected]

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Carmen Rincones in the AHLC Member Spotlight

I

f it doesn’t age me that Andrew Barber College no longer exists, it certainly ages me that I went there in 1970-71 in case any of you other old timers are reading this. Barber school was educational and fun because I enjoy helping other people look better. Lowell Sutton, my favorite barber instructor, made cutting hair and shaving fun. He introduced me to another way to express my creativity by coloring and styling hairpieces, as they were called back then. He took delight teasing us to get us to give our very best and I am forever grateful. After graduating, I worked at three different barber shops becoming affiliated with the California Concept method of cutting at the last one. Five years later I opened my own shop and 37 years later I’m still at the same location focusing on men’s hair replacement and also cutting and coloring “growing hair” clients. In 1984 I went to Ohio State School of Cosmetology and then expanded my shop to be barber/styling on one side and a beauty shop on the other. (In Ohio there are separate Boards for Barbers and for Cosmetology. I first attended a hair replacement seminar in the early 80’s. What grabbed me about the seminar was all the wisdom to be gained by networking with other seminar attendees. Through them I found out about many different hair replacement manufacturers, different attachment options, and lots of valuable tips. In addition, I was introduced to the American Hair Loss Council,

and the incredible group of people who spearheaded it in the beginning. I joined and attended many memorable conferences all around the country: San Antonio Hill country, New Orleans, Washington, DC, San Francisco, San Diego, and New Mexico to name my favorites. There were hundreds of

hair prosthetics for people who suffered disfiguring hair loss from radiation burns or other accident related hair loss. It felt good to try to help my clients that way. I have memories of having to evacuate our Marriott hotel rooms at least twice one night because the alarms kept going off. My hair replacement business is primarily focused on the male hair loss client and an occasional wig for someone going thru chemo. For over 20 years I’ve had an alopecia universalis female client who I’ve designed a beautiful vacuum system for. I do enjoy working with those. The rest of my business is cutting, coloring and a few perms now and then. I like doing all aspect of the industry where we can make such a difference in people by making them look and feel better and also becoming an important part of their lives. I attend several conferences a year and try to stay abreast of all the developments in the field of hair replacement as there is continuous growth and improvement in the field. The conferences are an excellent way to keep up. Beyond that, I meet new people and friends I can call on to help with difficulties that I encounter in the work. Since I’m a sole proprietor and work alone in my shop I particularly value the connection that I make at the conferences. I belong and am active in the Clintonville Area Chamber of Commerce in the community where I work and live. In 2011 I was honored to receive the Clintonville Business Person of the Year award. I strive to be worthy of that. The Link Issue 6, 2013  33

attendees from all parts of the country and even from Europe; most of them were men in the earlier years. My hat is off to the hard working people who put the conferences together, then and now. I smile when I remember one conference in New Orleans in which the television show 2020 recorded much of what we were doing. We felt like TV stars. They followed us around with the camera and constructed a segment of the 2020 news program around hair loss and the AHLC. I also remember a conference in DC in which we met with some members of Congress and their aids to lobby for insurance coverage for

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Hair Foundation
by: Dr. E. Antonio Mangubat, The Hair Foundation Founder

I N T R O D U C I N G

A VALUABLE RESOURCE FOR HAIR REPLACEMENT SPECIALISTS
for unbiased and credible information on hair care, hair loss and hair disease, we are enabling potential patients and consumers to change the way they communicate with their physicians, stylists and everyone involved in hair care and health. We believe our website meets this need.” The website has a wealth of information for different audiences whether it’s hair care professionals, consumers and patients with its industry news and research, video library, different hair topics and newsletters. Website visitors can also ask questions to the Hair Foundation and receive a response from one of its doctors or partners. “Something that we believe is exciting and valuable to the public is our ability to provide direct access to our staff and dedicated medical volunteers. Our volunteer physicians and nonprofit partners are experts in hair diseases, and can help provide answers to questions and concerns about any hair health issue,” said Leavitt. In addition to consumers, many physicians utilize The Hair Foundation’s resources to educate their patients about hair loss conditions. “As a physician specializing in hair loss, many of my patients are often unsure of their own hair health problems and the solutions available to treat those problems,” says Leavitt. “Because of the lack of clear and trustworthy information available to consumers, it’s not uncommon for a patient to refer to a technique or treatment that is over 20 years-old, or live with a disease that is easily treatable. As one of the founding members of the Hair Foundation, I wanted to draw from the best resources available in the scientific and medical fields, as well as the philanthropic and consumer product groups to create the foundation and our advisory councils.”

F

ounded in 2005, this nonprofit organization provides credible information regarding all aspects of hair health including hair care, styling and volume, disease, hair loss and proven hair loss treatments without commercial bias. The Hair Foundation breaks down the myths surrounding hair care whether it’s product ingredients or scientific studies to support product claims.

As an informational and invaluable resource with its renowned physicians, easy-to-navigate website, blog, and videos, the Hair Foundation is the only independent resource of unbiased hair-related information. Supported completely by donations and volunteers, it strives to be the most trusted source providing hair information to the public. “Our goal is to empower and inform consumers about hair health issues,” said Dr. Matt Leavitt, President of the Hair Foundation. We partner with medical and industry professionals and other nonprofit organizations to research and provide you with the most current and relevant information on hair health. By collaborating with these industry leaders, we’re able to spearhead research on relevant topics and make information regarding hair health easy to access and understand.” The Foundation identified the need to establish a single place where consumers can be confident they’re getting hair health information that is unbiased. Its website, www.hairfoundation.org, provides the most up-to-date information regarding hair loss. “The Hair Foundation’s goal is to provide the most current and accurate hair health information to the public,” says Leavitt. “Because we’re the only source 34  The Link Issue 6, 2013 

In addition to the large amount of website content, the Hair Foundation recently launched a nine-video series of physician videos. Also found on the website, board members Drs. Matt Leavitt, Dow Stough, E. Antonio Mangubat ,Ken Washenik and Paul Rose served as the video experts. These short videos offer advice, discuss topics, and describe patient stories through real-world examples and visuals. Viewers will find these very informative as physicians answer common questions and discuss remedies.

New Physician Videos

Blog posts, found on the website, include a wide range of topics including women and hair loss, children, cancer, lotions and potions for hair care, and non-surgical options for hair loss. The Hair Foundation’s partners, trustees and senior leaders provide the content for this blog. John Halal, President, American Association of Cosmetology Schools (AACS), and a blog contributor said, “AACS is the leading authority in professional cosmetology education and relies on the Hair Foundation to provide us with accurate and unbiased information about hair health and hair care. We also realize that sharing information is mutually beneficial to both of our organizations and their missions. The Hair Foundation promotes the work of AACS and seeks opportunities to harness the power of our collective efforts to create awareness of hair health among health care providers, consumers, companies and related organizations that will strengthen the overall industry.”

Blog

The Website

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

AHLC Executive Director Susan Kettering on Hallmark Channel’s Marie
The AHLC’s very own Susan Kettering and partner Grant Gunderson of The Hair Restoration Institute (HRI) of Pennsylvania were special guests on the “Marie” (Osmond) show on the Hallmark channel in March. They discussed women’s hair loss, products and things that work. Susan showed products on the market for women including the HairMax Laser Comb, Rogaine, products by Capilia, and products by Hair Loss Control Clinic. Susan sat under an MEP-90, while Grant Gunderson discussed the laser, how it worked and how the MEP-90 is the only FDA cleared “in- salon” laser on the market. Susan also managed to tell the audience about the AHLC and mentioned AHLC.org to Marie’s 500,000 plus audience. The word is that they will get to return because the interview was so well received. Stay tuned so you can see the next one!

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The Link Issue 6, 2013  35

THE INDUSTRY’S BUSINESS BOOSTER EVENT

2013
www.niulive.com

OCTOBER 19–20, 2013 /

Marriot Hotel, West Palm Beach, FL

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Experience hair loss education as never before Join us on a virtual, eye-opening journey of the ultimate client experience Learn all about hair and the latest technical trends Grow your network Boost your business

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Two days that could change the course of your business forever!

FOR ONLY $198/PERSON OR $178 FOR ADDITIONAL ATTENDEES FROM THE SAME STUDIO
Special conference room rate at the Marriott Hotel is $119 (plus 11% sales tax) for a standard room, double and single occupancy. For room reservations, please contact the Marriott Hotel directly at 1-800-228-9290.

1.800.359.4247 / niulive.com
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Limited seating. For more information and to register

New Product Spotlight:

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Breakthrough Solution from New Image: XTS – The World’s Most Popular Skin System Find out for yourself, why our clients are raving about XTS. Creates a most realistic look for discerning clients with the highest demands. To find out more or to order, visit www.newimagelabs.com or call 1-800-359-4247.

HairMax Hair Fibers Builds Volume, Density and Thickness in Seconds The quick and easy solution for men and women suffering with hair loss and thinning hair. These keratin protein hair building fibers blend and statically cling to existing hair to hide any receding areas and provide dramatic density, volume and natural looking coverage, instantly! Made with all-natural and organic ingredients, they are 100% safe to use after hair transplant surgery. Available in 8 colors for a perfect match. One bottle lasts for up to 60 applications. www.HairMax.com – 1.800.9REGROW

Elimin8 from Professional Hair Labs A stand alone odor eliminator designed for hair replacement systems. Categorized on the cutting edge of odor eliminating technology, Elimin8 is a bioremediation catalyst which uses microorganisms to return the natural balance of scent levels. Containing only organic ingredients, Elimin8 will ensure safe, effective use. Elimin8 is a n extremely economical product to use, simple spray over the top of the hair unit, let it settle and watch the results! Go to www.prohairlabs.com or call 800-778-4274.

The Link Issue 6, 2013  37

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

AHLC Academy Class Listings:
Your resource for continuing education and accumulating points towards our Master’s Certification. Discounts on class fees may be available to AHLC members. Ask when registering for classes.
NIU LIVE 2013 10/19-21 Marriott Hotel, West Palm Beach, FL Don’t miss the industry’s most progressive educational program! NIU LIVE 2013 features a virtual journey through the ultimate client experience. Revolutionary and eye-opening, this featured presentation alone is worth the trip. But there is more. Classes also include cutting-edge technical training, as well as top-notch business and marketing sessions. Join your peers for exciting networking mixers and rub shoulders with some of the top presenters in the hair loss and beauty industry. Discover what’s in you, rekindle the passion, leave empowered, boost your business. All this happens in New Image’s very own backyard, in West Palm Beach, FL from October 19 to October 21, 2013. For Rookies and Super Stars in the industry – NIU LIVE 2013 surely has a class for you! For more information and to register call 1-800-359-4247 or visit www.niulive.com On Rite 7/15 Chicago, IL 9/23 Sacramento, CA Regional Hair Academy – One Day Medical Hair Loss Certification Class 7/21-22 Dallas, TX Regional Hair Academy – Two Day Women’s Hair Replacement Certification Class 7/20-23 On Rite/Gemtress Corporate Office, Ft. Lauderdale FL Four day Hair Academy, Three day Men’s, Women’s Hair Replacement and One Day Medical Hair Loss Contact 800-327-5555 or www.onritedirect.com for more information. International Hair Goods 7/8, 8/5, 9/9 Micro Point Solutions 7/2, 9/23 Cyberhair Training 8/26 Private Issue All classes are held at IHI’s training center in Chanhassen, MN. Contact us at 800-328-6182 Di Biase Hair USA We are currently scheduling classes in various locations and are actively looking at establishing additional classes in as many areas as there may be a significant interest. If you are interested in certification, please contact Di Biase Hair [email protected] or 248-4898900. 38  The Link Issue 6, 2013 
CapiLia haS reCentLy CompLeteD itS SeConD affiLiation in the uniteD StateS, anD iS LookinG for enthuSiaStiC anD paSSionate aSSoCiateS to purSue itS expanSion in ameriCa

Join us...

and become part oF the Fastest GrowinG networK oF hair Loss experts
Capilia members’ mission is to provide a one stop solution for hairloss, from scalp health and prevention to hair loss correction, be it surgical or non surgical. currently at 26 affiliated capilia centers in canada, established hair replacement studios have grouped together to benefit from advanced training and technology, as well as develop marketing and advertising tools to grow their business.

For more inFormation
Sam Donofrio, president Leigh Gardner, senior representative

on how you can expand your business
1 877 838-4247 | [email protected] 954-661-5503 | [email protected]

capilia.com | capilia.ca
Territories available in Canada and the United States

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SUPPORT THOSE WHO SUPPORT US
Our Manufacturer and Vendor Members are the lifeblood of our organization. Let’s continue to support each with our patronage.

DESIGNED BY E-ZIGN DESIGN GROUP FOR THE AMERICAN HAIR LOSS COUNCIL, E-ZIGN.COM, AHLC.ORG