Trieste In Your Pocket

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Our first full guide to Trieste, the capital of the Friuli Venezia Giulia region in the far east of Italy, and a vibrant historical city just waiting to be discovered.

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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Trieste
2013

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.” The New York Times

45th Barcolana

Experience the largest nautical event on the Adriatic

Miramare Castle

One of Europe’s most romantic buildings is just outside of Trieste

N°2 Enjoy your COMPLIMENTARY COPY of Trieste In Your Pocket

Contents

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
In the News Arrival & Transport
Buses, planes, trains and more 7 8 9

The Basics
Some useful info for travellers

Culture & Events 10
What to see and where to see it

Where to stay 14 A rundown of Trieste’s ample accommodation Where to Eat
Four-star fish to fresh fast food 18

Miramare Castle, the lighthouse, Piazza Unità, the Grand Canal and James Joyce - all of Trieste’s sights in one convenient location, photo by YMB

Cafés 24 The best of Italy and Vienna meet Nightlife 26 An easygoing town with plenty of places to drink What to See
The highlights of Trieste and the region 28 35 40-41

Shopping
Find everything you need or want

Maps
City centre map

Con il patrocinio:

Concerts on Trieste’s Piazza Unità square are must see events if you’re in town for one, photo by Matteo Lavazza Seranto

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2013

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Foreword
After years of planning, research, long weekends and late nights we are extremely proud to finally present the first full edition of Trieste In Your Pocket! Situated a unique and somewhat historically precarious position between Latin, Germanic and Slavic lands, Trieste is unlike any other city in the world, and is truly one of the most underrated and unfairly overlooked places not only in Italy, but in all of Europe. While Rome, Florence and nearby Venice have been fixtures on the proverbial tourist map for centuries, in terms of cuisine, culture, castles and romance Trieste is second to none. Embraced by green hills on one side and the Mediterranean Sea on the other, with the snow-capped Dolomites piercing the horizon to the north, no city can honestly claim to have a more majestic setting. After having served as the most important port and fourth largest city of the Habsburg Empire for some seven centuries, Trieste became part of Italy following World War I, spent nearly a decade as an independent city state (the so-called Free Territory of Trieste) following World War II, and is now the capital and largest city of the Friuli Venezia Giulia autonomous region. The influence of Trieste’s Austro-Hungarian heritage is readily apparent nearly a hundred years after the downfall of the Habsburg monarchy, from the grand architecture lining the main squares and boulevards to the buzz of the historic Viennese-style coffeehouses scattered across the city to the hearty central European cuisine and frothy Bavarian beer found in countless pubs. For all these reasons and more we’ve chosen Trieste as the first of what will soon be many new Italian cities to join the In Your Pocket family. On the pages of this guide you can find a carefully chosen selection of where to stay, eat and shop, and the highlights of what to see and do in and around Trieste, while much more content can be found on our website. Finally, we would like to extend our most sincere gratitude to all the friendly, generous and welcoming Triestines, who have made us feel at home in our adopted city, and provided invaluable insider information while we were preparing the guide. As always we also encourage and appreciate any and all feedback we receive from our readers, be it on Facebook, Twitter, Foursquare, Pintrest or even oldfashioned email. Publisher
Trieste In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 / +393 28 083 1957 [email protected], www.inyourpocket.com Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. [email protected] Sales Manager Eva Trinca [email protected], tel. +393 28 083 1957 ©IQBATOR d.o.o. Printed Evrografis d.o.o. Published Three times per year

in the news

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Editorial
Editor Yuri Barron Writers Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, James Cosier Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photos Simone di Luca, Giuliana Birri, Marino Sterle, Branka Jovanović, YMB Cover photo Marino Sterle

Sales & Circulation
Eva Trinca, Irena Jamnikar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina

Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

Trieste IYP on Facebook

Trieste & Totò

Maps
Cesar Tarabocchia

Europe In Your Pocket
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Austria Switzerland Slovenia Romania Croatia Italy Bosnia Serbia Bulgaria Montenegro Kosovo Albania Greece

Georgia

It’s now 21 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 75 cities across the continent (with Batumi, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed ) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We also publish an iPhone app, including more than 40 guides, which can be downloaded for free from the AppStore. Search for ‚IYP Guides’ by name. To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook ( faceb ook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Can’t wait for the next issue of Trieste In Your Pocket? Visit our Facebook fan page to get your daily fix of snarky comments, travel and entertainment news, restaurant and nightlife tips, and lots more random Trieste-related info. Some of our regular features include polls on the best of what the city has to offer, date night recommendations. And if that’s not enough we also like to bribe our fans with things such as free restaurant vouchers, chocolate and concert tickets. Besides, who couldn’t use another excuse to waste time on time on the internet?

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FYR Macedonia

Former footballer Totò De Falco has announced the release of his first book, titled 'Trieste & Totò: It's only love', in September 2013. The legendary Triestina striker writes about his love of his long-time home and his personal memories of living an playing in Trieste, accompanied by many never before published anecdotes and photos. Decades in the making, the book finally tells the full story of De Falco straight from the man himself. For more info you can check out the official Totò De Falco fan page on Facebook.

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Arrival & Transport
Public Transport
its outskirts are well-covered by an extensive network of some 50 bus lines that ply seemingly every street, from major thoroughfares to impossibly narrow lanes with double parked cars in the historic centre. That said, the city and most major tourist sights can easily be covered on foot, depending on the weather of course. A single tramway line also makes the slow scenic journey from Piazza Oberdan all the way up to Villa Opicina in the hills overlooking the sea, still using the restored original tram cars from 1935. Q Tickets must be bought in advance and must be validated once on board. They cost €1.25/4.15 for one-way/daily, and can be found at most newsagent’s, tobacconist’s and some cafés.

Basics
Opening Hours
In Trieste post offices, banks and offices usually open around 08:30 in the morning, while most shops and cultural institutions open at 09:00. All but the latter close from 13:00 to 15:00 (give or take 30 minutes) for lunch, and then reopen until 16:00 (banks) or 19:30 (shops). Virtually all restaurants in town are open for lunch (12:00-15:00) and dinner (19:00-23:00), but not in between. Be aware that both opening hours and days can also vary greatly between summer and winter seasons.

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Public Transport www.triestetrasporti.it. Trieste and

Taxis
Alabarda Tel. +39 040 390 039. Radio Taxi Trieste Tel. +39 040 307730, www. Taxi Aeroporto FVG Tel. +39 0481 778 000, info@
taxiaeroportofvg.it, www.taxiaeroportofvg.it. radiotaxitrieste.it.

Money
Italy was one of the original 11 EU member states to adopt the euro alongside its own currency (the Italian lira with an exchange rate of just over 1936 lira to 1 euro) on 1 January 1999, with the euro officially replacing the lira for cash transactions on 1 January 2002. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. Italian euro coins all feature famous works of art from Italian artists or monuments, such as Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man (€1), Sandra Botticelli’s Birth of Venus (€0.10), and the Colosseum in Rome (€0.05).

Trains
Trenitalia Ticket Services Centre E-1, Piazza Libertà 8, tel. +39 313 811 0813/+39 040 44 114, fax +39 040 425 032, [email protected], www.trenitalia. it. The friendly multi-lingual staff at the Trenitalia office in the central railway station can help organise individual and group travel, book tickets for high speed trains, sleepers and international journeys, and explain all the different options available for getting you where you need to go. It’s also possible to book tickets over the phone with a credit card, and have them posted to you. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00, 13:00-16:15. Trieste Centrale E-1, Piazza LIbertà, www.trenitalia. com. Trieste’s central train station was opened in 1857 upon the completion of the famed Vienna-Trieste railway line, while the bright yellow Neo-Renaissance structure that can be seen today dates from 1878. The facilities were renovated and expanded in 2007, and now include a supermarket, bookshop, pharmacy and other shops, as well as a special lounge for Eurostar passengers. There are frequent direct links to most major Italian cities, and many more domestic destinations are available via connections in Venice. Internationally, direct connections are possible to many German and Austrian cities, as well as Zagreb, Budapest, Bucharest and Moscow to the east.

Smoking
Smoking is banned in all public places in Italy, and Trieste is no exception. A handful of bars and cafés have separate indoor smoking rooms, but otherwise if you need to light up you’ll find plenty of company outside most establishments. According to the most recent reports, an estimated 32 per cent of men and 19 per cent of women smoke in Italy.

Trieste Mayor Roberto Cosolini poses with his copies of our first issue of Trieste In Your Pocket, and was also kind enough to sit down with us for an interview about his hometown earlier this summer

Exchange rates
1 EUR € = 1.33 US$ = 0.86 UK£ = 1.23 CHF = 8.14 CNY = 131 ¥ = 114 дин = 44 руб (30 July 2013) locals carrying around open beer bottles or drinking other mixed concoctions from plastic bottles late into the night. While most cafés and bars do not keep ‘happy hours’ per se, many do offer free snacks with drinks during the evenings.

Trieste’s famous covered market, Mercato Coperto, photo by Simone di Luca

Car Rental
Hertz C-4, Molo Bersaglieri 3, tel. +39 040 322 0098,
040 421323, www.maggiore.it. Sixt Aeroporto Ronchi Dei Legionari, tel. +39 0481 774 836, www.sixt.it.

Drinking
In Trieste, as in the much of the rest of Italy, drinking alcohol is a fairly widespread practice, with most meals not only accompanied by a glass or more of wine, but aperitifs and digestifs being almost as indispensable as other courses. The legal drinking age in Italy is 16, so don’t be surprised to see rather young-looking

Maggiore Rent F-2, Via Martiri della Libertà 8, tel. +39

fax +39 040 322 4982, www.hertz.it.

Mobile Phones
Thanks to the ongoing regulatory efforts at the EU-level (and much to the chagrin of telecom operators), mobile phone roaming rates are now capped across all EU member states including Italy, which means that as of 1 July 2013 you can expect to pay only €0.24 per minute for outgoing calls, €0.07 per minute for incoming calls and €0.08 per sms sent. If you’re planning to spend a longer period of time in the country and/ or make a significant amount of local calls, buying an Italian SIM card could be a more economical option, especially for mobile internet usage. They can be purchased from any phone shop starting at around €10, and require a passport for registration.

Air Travel
Trieste-FVG Airport Tel. +39 0481 773 224, www. aeroporto.fvg.it. The Trieste - Friuli Venezia Giulia Airport (TRS) is located some 40km north of Trieste near the town of Ronchi dei Legionari. The trip takes 30-40 minutes by car, and there are also frequent buses to Trieste and elsewhere in the region. Tickets can be bought from a 24-hour automated machine, or from the TurismoFVG office in the arrivals hall, which can also provide tourist info (including copies of this guide) and sells the FVG Card. The national carrier Alitalia operates the majority of flights, but in recent years there has also been a large increase in the presence of budget airlines, especially during the summer season. Alitalia Airlines Ronchi dei Legionari, tel. +39 0481 77 32 32, www.alitalia.com. Italy’s much maligned and perpetually bankrupt national carrier still offers the most flight into and out of Trieste Airport, as well as the most extensive network of connections through either Milan or Rome for international flights. Lacking a branch in Trieste proper, the nearest location is at the airport, so booking a ticket online or over the phone is the best option. QOpen 06:00 - 12:30, 13:10-19:00. trieste.inyourpocket.com

National Holidays
The following dates are all work-free public holidays in Trieste, meaning you can expect most offices, shops and cultural institutions to be closed. 1 January - New Year’s Day 6 January - Epiphany Mon after Easter - Easter Monday 25 April - Liberation Day 1 May - International Workers’ Day 2 June - Republic Day 15 August - Assumption Day 1 November - All Saints’ Day 3 November - Feast Day of Saint Justus 8 December - Immaculate Conception 25 December - Christmas Day 26 December - St Stephen’s Day

Safety
Trieste is a relatively safe city by European standards, and you shouldn’t have any problems if you take the same reasonable precautions that would elsewhere (eg pay extra attention to your valuables in crowded places, don’t walk alone late at night, etc). As is the case throughout Europe, the general emergency number is 112, with calls being answered almost immediately by operators who can speak Italian, English, German, French and Slovenian.

During Barcolana each October the most popular way of getting to Trieste is by sailboat

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Culture & Events
Events
05.10 Saturday - 13.10 Sunday

Culture & Events

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Le Vie Delle Foto
01.10 Tuesday - 31.10 Thursday
Various Venues, tel. +39 345 2911 405, info@ leviedellefoto.it, www. leviedellefoto.it. One boring day in July several years ago, some local photographers in Trieste came up with the idea of developing an exhibition that would be both largest the city had ever seen but also completely unique in its format. The project they came up with is Le Vie Delle Foto (the Way of the Photos), which is now in its third year, and will see some 50 photographers staging simultaneous exhibitions at 50 different venues across the city, making the pathway for visiting them all part of the exhibition itself. The network of exhibition spaces includes bars, cafés and hotels covers the entire city centre, with printed and digital maps available, as well as guided weekly tours. The individual exhibitions are not tied together by any mandatory topicss, instead the artists have been left to explore new themes and thinking in order to create the most innovative shows possible. See the official website (in English) for more info on the project, the venues and the photographers. two days of the event are limited to professional attendees (and, lucky for us, press!), the final day is open to the general public. Most exhibitors will of course be presenting various Prosecco varieties, but producers from the Karst will also be hand with other typical regional wines. Produced in the Friuli Venezia Giulia and Veneto regions, in 2009 Prosecco was finally given DOCG protected status, which means its production is not only strictly limited in terms of geography and methods used (like DOC products), but the wine must also pass a series of rigorous taste tests and analyses.

Barcolana

Tel. +39 040 411664, fax +39 040 413838, [email protected], www.barcolana.it. The annual Barcolana Regatta is undoubtedly Trieste’s biggest event of the year, both in terms of the competition itself, as well as the week-long programme of water- and land-based sport, entertainment and cultural activities that attract thousands of visitors every October. Beginning as an informal race amongst locals to mark the end of the sailing season, the first Barcolana in 1969 had a total of 51 participants. Now in its 44th year, the event attracts well over 2,000 boats to the Gulf of Trieste, making it the most crowded event of its kind in the Mediterranean, and transforming the city to the unofficial sailing capital of Europe. An event that truly must be experienced to be believed, if you ever have the opportunity to make it to Trieste in mid-October, take it! Just make sure to book your accommodation well in advance. More info for visitors and participants, including a full schedule of events, can be found on the official Barcolana website.

11.10 Friday - 13.10 Sunday

Prosecco: Bubbling Style on Show

Trieste Stazione Marittima, tel. +39 040 670 1240, [email protected], www.proseccoshow.it. The dry sparkling wine known as Prosecco, or Italy’s answer to Champagne, will be the star attraction of a festival held in its honour for the second year in a row. Organised to coincide with the annual Barcolana extravaganza and related festivities in October, the Prosecco Show will see producers, professionals and the public descend on the Maritime Station along Trieste’s waterfront for three days of tastings, networking, meetings, workshops and more. While admission to the first

07.03 Friday - 10.03 Monday

Olio Capitale

Trieste Stazione Marittima, tel. +39 040 670 1240, info@ oliocapitale.it, www.oliocapitale.it. Each spring Trieste hosts one of Europe’s premier specialty culinary events - the Olio Capitale, a trade expo and public fair dedicated to top quality extra-virgin olive oil. Hundreds of exhibitors from every corner of Italy (as well as some neighbouring countries) bring their products to town, both to present them to a wider public audience and to further their businesses through the various suppliers, restauranteurs and other professionals in attendance. Visitors can participate in guided tastings, attend olive oil classes, and listen to informational sessions. In short, the event is an olive oil lover’s dream come true, which is why you can find us here every year. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

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Culture & Events
Friuli Venezia Giulia - Events 2013/14
SEPTEMBER Friuli Doc Udine www.comune.udine.it Pordenone Legge . it Pordenone www.pordenonelegge.it Half Marathon Città di Udine Udine www.maratoninadiudine.it OCTOBER Days of the silent cinema Pordenone www.giornatedelcinemamuto.it Barcolana Trieste www.barcolana.it Latin American Festival Trieste www.cinelatinotrieste.org Pumpkin Festival Venzone www.prolocovenzone.it Trieste Science+Fiction Trieste www.scienceplusfiction.org NOVEMBER Trieste Antiqua Trieste www.triesteantiqua.it Ein Prosit Tavisio www.einprosit.org Chocofest Gradisca d’Isonzo www.chocofest.it DECEMBER Christmas Cribs at The Villa Villa Manin - Passariano di Codroipo Christmas in the wine cellars various locations www.prolocoregionefvg.it www.mtvfriulivg.it

Culture & Events
Up Museo dell’ Ex Lavatoio di San Giacomo Via
San Giacomo in Monte 9, tel. +39 340 792 9694, info@ exlavatoio.it, www.exlavatoio.it.

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Cinemas
The good news is that Trieste has lots of cinemas both large and small, however, the bad news (for non-Italian speakers at least) is that virtually all international films are dubbed in Italian. If you’re a fan the Hollywood blockbusters that tend to have more explosions than dialogue than perhaps this won’t matter. Otherwise, check with the tourist office to see if one of the city’s annual international film festivals are taking place while you’re in town.

Theatres
Viale XX Settembre 45, tel. +39 040 3593511, info@ ilrossetti.it, www.ilrossetti.it. La Contrada - Teatro Stabile di Trieste Via del Ghirlandaio 12, tel. +39 040 948471, contrada@contrada. it, www.contrada.it. Teatro Miela Piazza Duca degli Abruzzi 3, tel. +39 040 365119, [email protected], www.miela.it. Teatro San Giovanni Via San Cilino 99/1, tel. +39 040 351330, [email protected], www.patteatro.it.

Il Rossetti - Teatro Stabile del Friuli Venezia Giulia

JANUARY Epiphany of Friuli Tarcento IAT Tarcento Tel. +39 0432 780674 Epiphany of the Thaler Gemona del Friuli www.prolocogemona.it Mass of the broadsword Cividale del Friuli www.cividale.net Trieste Film Festival Trieste www.triestefilmfestival.it MARCH Carnival of Muggia Muggia www.carnevaldemuja.com Carnival of Resia Resia www.resianet.org Capital Oil Trieste www.oliocapitale.it Dedica Festival Pordenone www.dedicafestival.it APRIL/MAY Far East Film Festival Udine www.fareastfilm.com Bavisela Trieste/ Gradisca d’Isonzo www.bavisela.it Sapori Pro Loco Villa Manin - Passariano di Codroipo www.prolocoregionefvg.it Cantine Aperte various locations www.mtvfriulivg.it JUNE / JULY Aria di Festa San Daniele www.prosciuttosandaniele.com Grado Festival ospiti d’autore Grado www.grado.info Maremetraggio Trieste www.maremetraggio.it JULY Sauris Ham festival Sauris www.sauris.org Folkest Spilimbergo and other localities www.folkest.com Seghizzi in the Region Gorizia www.seghizzi.it Sexto ‘Nplugged Sesto al Reghena www.sextonplugged.it Stazione di Topolò Grimacco - Hamlet of Topolò www.stazioneditopolo.it Mittelfest Cividale del Friuli www.mittelfest.org AUGUST Calici di stelle various locations www.mtvfriulivg.it Folklore at the villa Villa Manin - Passariano di Codroipo www.prolocoregionefvg.it Re-enactment of the Macia Spilimbergo www.prospilimbergo.it Pordenone Blues Festival Pordenone www.pordenonebluesfestival.com Alpe Adria Puppet Festival Aquileia - Grado www.ctagorizia.it Palio of San Donato Cividale del Friuli www.paliodicividale.it World Folklore Festival Gorizia http://festivalfolkgo.interfree.it For more info on events throughout the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia see www.turismofvg.it

Ambasciatore Cinema Viale XX Settembre 35, tel. +39 040 662424, www.triestecinema.it. Cinecity Art & Cinemas Via Bartolomeo D’Alviano 23, Centro Commerciale Le Torri d’Europa, tel. 892 111, [email protected], www. thespacecinema.it. Cinema Ariston Viale Romolo Gessi 14, tel. +39 040 304 222, www.aristontrieste.it. Cinema Fellini Viale XX Settembre 37, tel. +39 040 636 495, www.triestecinema.it. Cinema Nazionale Via XX Settembre 30, tel. +39 040 635 163, www.triestecinema.it. Giotto Multiplex Via Giotto 8, tel. +39 040 637 636, www.triestecinema.it.

Via Petronio 4, tel. +39 040 632664/+39 040 362 542, [email protected], www.teaterssg.it. Teatro Verdi Trieste D-4, Riva 3 Novembre 1, tel. +39 040 672 2111, [email protected], www.teatroverdi-trieste.com. Trieste’s glorious opera house was modelled on the famed La Scala in Milan and first opened in 1801. Like many of the city’s most notable buildings, and indeed the Trieste itself, Teatro Verdi has experienced various name and structural changes over the centuries, finally settling on the formal title Teatro Lirco Guiseppe Verdi in 1901, just hours after the great composer’s death. Theatre Silvio Pellico Via Ananian 5, tel. +39 040 393478, [email protected], www.teatroarmonia.it.

Teatro Stabile Slovenian (Slovensko Gledališče)

Museums & Galleries
drale 3, tel. +39 040 30 93 62, [email protected], www.castellodisangiustotrieste.it. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission €6, reduced price €4, castle only €1. Joyce Museum Via Madonna del Mare 13/2, tel. +39 040 675 8182, [email protected], www. museojoycetrieste.it. Q Open 09:00-13:00, Thu 09:0013:00, 15:00-19:00. Admission free. Lapidario Tergestino Piazza della Cattedrale 3, tel. +39 040 309362, [email protected], www. retecivica.trieste.it. Q Open 09:00-19:00 (1 Apr - 31 Oct), 09:00-13:00 (1 Nov - 31 Mar). Admission €6, reduced price €4. Lux Art Gallery Via Cecilia De Rittmeyer 7d, tel. +39 040 307321/+39 335 675 0946. Museum of History and Art Piazza della Cattedrale 1, tel. +39 040 310 500, [email protected], www. museostoriaeartetrieste.it. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5, reduced price €3. Museum of Oriental Art Palazzetto Leo, Via San Sebastiano 1, tel. +39 040 675 4068, [email protected], www.museoarteorientaletrieste.it. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Admission €3. Palazzo Gopcevich Via Rossini 4, tel. +39 040 675 4072. Revoltella Museum Via Diaz 27, tel. +39 040 675 4350, [email protected], www.museorevoltella.it. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission €7, reduced price €5. Sala Arturo Fittke Piazza Piccola 3. Salone degli Incanti Riva Nazario Sauro 1, tel. +39 040 322 6862, [email protected], www.retecivica.trieste.it. Svevo Museum Via Madonna del Mare 13/2, tel. +39 040 675 8182, [email protected]. it, www.retecivica.trieste.it. Q Open 09:00-13:00, Thu 09:00-13:00, 15:00-19:00. Admission free.

Castello di San Giusto Museum Piazza della Catte-

An impromptu midnight trumpet serenade on Molo Audace pier, photo by Mario Fragiacomo

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Where to stay
Hotels
Albergo Alla Posta F-1/2, Piazza Oberdan 1, tel. +39 040
36 52 08, [email protected], www.albergopostatrieste.it. A good option if you like to be central but don’t need to be right in the heart of the city; the Alla Posta is located on a busy square a 10-minute walk from Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, at the historic Opicina Tram Terminus. The décor is a hybrid of classic and modern, with a high grade finish and very good room facilities including minibars and marble bathrooms/hydromassage baths in some. Breakfast is fresh, the staff helpful and prices reasonable. Q 47 rooms (singles €70-110, doubles €98-170, suites €225-260). Lower rates only available for weekend stays. Pets charged €15/night. P6UW

Symbol key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi connection

7, tel. +39 040 76 48 24, sangiusto.ts@bestwestern. it, www.hotelsangiusto.it. Relatively far from the centre (1km) and not much else to make up for it. The rooms are not generous in terms of space, although part of the hotel has now been renovated, and there is air conditioning. The staff were very kind during our stay, and remarkably spoke good English. Cleanliness is probably the biggest plus about this Best Western chain hotel and it’s generally quiet, being out of the bustle of the centre. Q 62 rooms (singles €62-66, doubles €86, triples €109). PHA6LW

Best Western Hotel San Giusto G-6, Via dell’Istria

Continentale E-4, Via San Nicolò 25, tel. +39 040 631 717, [email protected], www.continentalehotel.com. A classy classic residence with almost everything going for it: tastefully decorated high quality rooms; very good breakfast including homemade croissants and omlettes; affable staff; exceptional cleanliness, and central pavement-side location. The latter does mean that it’s sometimes not the quietest, but in our view this is more than made up for in sheer ease of exploration both night and day (plus the rooms are somewhat soundproofed). Tough one to beat for a short city break. Q 47 rooms (singles €90-150, doubles €115-170). PTJHARFK
16 14, fax +39 040 77 21 99, info@hotelcoppetrieste. it, www.hotelcoppetrieste.it. This relatively new design hotel enjoys an ideal location only steps from the city’s main attractions and historic centre, as well as the main shopping district and train station. Set in a renovated historic building, the architects have taken full advantage of some unique spaces, with exposed wood beams on the top floors, large multi-room suites, and so-called Romantic rooms featuring huge round beds below star-lit ceilings. Breakfast is served in the stylish café on the ground floor, and includes nice extras like homemade marmalade and proper espresso coffee. If arriving by car avoid the hassle of parking by calling ahead to arrange valet service at standard daily parking rates. Q 36 rooms (singles €95-190, doubles €135-270, junior suites €190-370, suites €210-400). PTJA6W

410 115, fax +39 040 413 053, [email protected], www. greifgroup.net. This charming old waterfront villa on the road to Miramare Castle may have had a bit of its legendary elegance fade over the decades (and its five-star rating it perhaps one too much), but we tend to feel that it may actually be all the better for it, as the added character means you can now almost always find rooms online at huge discounts to the official rack rates we’ve listed here. The exceptional service gives one the feeling of being a long-lost member of the Habsburg nobility, while breakfast on the terrace on a sunny spring or summer morning is difficult to top. Q Singles €275-300, doubles €320-400, suites €700. 311 023, fax +39 040 302 618, info@hoteljamesjoyce. com, www.hoteljamesjoyce.com. A lot of hotels claim to be in the ‘old centre’ of cities, but this place has more justification than most. Built in 1770 and named after a certain long-time and hard-drinking resident Irishman, it has retained some very attractive old features including beamed ceilings. Otherwise the amenities are modern (including WiFi), the rooms well-furnished and service excellent. Its location in a side street can be a challenge to find, but when you do you’ll realise it’s a cosy little base hidden in the thick of things to explore. Note that reception is located at the Urban Hotel Design. Q 12 rooms (singles €81-120, doubles €150). PA6ULG

Greif Maria Theresia Viale Miramare 109, tel. +39 040

James Joyce D-4, Via dei Cavazzeni 7, tel. +39 040

Coppe E-4, Via Giuseppe Mazzini 24, tel. +39 040 76

Le Corderie Via di Calvola 43, tel. +39 040 322 9277,

Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta D-4, Piazza Squero Vecchio 1, tel. +39 040 760 0011, [email protected], www. duchi.eu. Trieste’s flagship hotel sits in its rightful place, on the corner of the city’s grandest square (dell’Unità d’Italia). The advantage of this would be dining with a view, if the food wasn’t overpriced and under-whelming. Still, the regal classical decor is high end, and you get the luxury of a heated indoor pool, turkish bath and hot tub. They have also ‘moved with the times’ in some other respects; flat-screen TVs are to be found in the rooms and the WiFi is free. Q 55 rooms (singles €125-170, doubles €144-224, €214-244). Lower rates available for non-refundable payments made in advance. PUGKDCW Trieste In Your Pocket

www.lecorderiehotel.it. Distinctive in terms of its heritage, this former rope and sail manufacturer’s workshop has been converted into a compact modern hotel, constituting one of Trieste’s more popular at present. Wake up in a room of modern conveniences (plus a writing desk), having indulged in your complementary mini-bar, but not too late; the breakfast is high-end, featuring fresh fruit and handmade cakes/ pastries. Located in a quiet corner, 15 minutes from the city centre. Q 15 rooms (singles €99-110, doubles €120-130). PTALBW

Miramare Miramare 325, tel. +39 040 22 47 085, info@ hotelmiramaretrieste.it, www.hotelmiramaretrieste.it. Any number of intensifiers can be placed in front of the word ‘modern’ in describing the design Hotel Miramare, ironic given its namesake castle; steeped in history and just a 15 minute walk along the promenade. The promenade is literally where the hotel is situated, with balconies boasting breathtaking sea views. Cleanliness and friendliness (probably the two golden rules taught on new hotel employee training courses the world over) are adhered to. A further advantage over city centre establishments is the free parking onsite. Q 32 rooms (singles €100-115, doubles €120-140). PTA6UKW trieste.inyourpocket.com

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Where to stay
NH Trieste E-2, Corso Cavour 7, tel. +39 040 76 00 055, [email protected], www.nh-hotels.it. A mixed bag: while there’s only 30 minutes of free internet in the lobby (not good enough in this class) and no parking, you do get a decent breakfast, a clean and spacious room and a central location. With very good service, it’s a worthwhile option should you take advantage of online discounts. Q Singles and doubles €90-150. P6KW Palace Suite Via San Nicolò 34-36, tel. +39 040 367631, fax +39 040 368816, info@palacesuite. com, www.palacesuite.com. Just a few steps from the city’s major sights, but still somewhat hidden away in the pedestrian area, the early 20th-century Palazzo Terni-Dei Rossi boasts one of the most impressive façades in all of Trieste, behind which can be found one of the city’s most impressive accommodation options. Offering three types of suites - classic, family and studio - guests can expect all of the conveniences of a hotel with the space and privacy of an apartment. All units come with fully-equipped kitchens, and luxurious amenities throughout, from solid oak floors and designer furniture to huge flat screen TVs and bathroom fixtures. Definitely one of our favourites. Q 16 suites. PTJALW
[email protected], www.hotelroma-trieste.it. Both standard hotel rooms and apartments are available here (the latter being across the road), and it’s in an ideal location near to the train station and city sights. Yet another residence set in a 19th Century building, the Roma has itself been open for over 100 years, with ample sized rooms and bathrooms. If nothing else the rack rates for the Roma are reasonable and there’s free WiFi throughout. Q Singles from €66, doubles from €79, triples from €113, apartments from €170. PTJA6LW 4, tel. +39 040 77 941, fax +39 040 638 260, [email protected], savoiaexcelsiorpalace. starhotels.com. One look at this place and you’ve seen enough to deduct that it is justifiably called a palace. Quite astonishing luxury in every corner, what else to say. The description here must turn to distinguished details such as the shell-shaped ceiling in Le Rive bar, the panoramic views of the Gulf of Trieste to be enjoyed over breakfast on your 19th century balcony, Italian marble in the lobby and bathrooms, reputed toiletries in the latter, and all this just a few steps from the central square. Q 142 rooms (classic €190, superior €220, deluxe €250, suites €310-430). PHULGKW

Where to stay
Urban Hotel Design D-4, Androna Chiusa 4, tel. +39 040 30 20 65, [email protected], www.urbanhotel.it. As the name suggests, design and urban-ness are something of a focus here. Think minimalist rooms, retro furniture and Audrey Hepburn popart. Although form may come at the expense of functionality occasionally, it is forgivable, not least for the prime location (150m from Piazza Dell’Unità), professional (and multilingual) staff and tasty breakfast. Q Singles €130-220, doubles €160-280, suites €220-320. Valet parking service is an additional €20/night. PJARULGW Victoria G-5, Alfredo Oriani 2, tel. +39 040 36 24 15, www.hotelvictoriatrieste.com. Housed in the former home of James Joyce, the superb Victoria dedicates a suite to the Ulysses author and legend in Trieste. The 19th Century structure is beautifully maintained and has been brought up-to-date with modern amenities. WiFi is available throughout, and the wellness centre (sauna, Turkish bath, hot tub, chromotherapy shower) will delight most. There’s marble all over the place, four-poster beds and a world class breakfast is the icing on the cake. Q 44 rooms (singles €90-120, doubles €110-130, suites €150-220). PA6FLDW

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Forni di Sopra - Carnia

Budget Hotels
Affitta Camere Ghega F-2, Carlo Ghega 3, tel. +39 040
66 12 96. Basic, spacious and good location are the keywords for this slightly run-down looking property. On arrival it can be tricky to find (especially at night), but when you do you’ll likely be met by a friendly and helpful receptionist, who can advise on nearby restaurants and pizzerias, of which there are plenty. The facilities are quite spartan and there’s no common space, but there is free WiFi throughout, and a discounted breakfast at a nearby café. Q Doubles €59, triples €73. JA6XW with love; be bestowed with organic breakfast and all the amiable traveller tips you wish for. Throw in a fairly central location (bus stop Piazza Goldoni), comfortable beds and nice little touches like bathrobes, candles in the bathroom, and you have the potential for an affordable romantic break. Q Singles €30-45, doubles €50-70. PNG 245 3297/+39 327 44 75 405, info@residencesara. com, www.residencesara.com. Tucked into a cosy old town corner not far from Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, these apartments are an ideal alternative to staying in a hotel. It, or given the name perhaps ‘she’ is more appropriate, is housed in an old building, but has had a recent makeover which has made her modern, clean and attractive. The ample space makes for pleasant breakfast and ‘getting ready’ time, but given the lack of internet that probably won’t be extended too much. Note that reception (at the address given) is in a separate building to the apartments themselves, which are all independent. Monthly rentals are also available. Q 12 apartments (1-person €50-80, 2-person €70-120, 3-person €90-140, 4-person €100160). PTJA

Roma E/F-2, Carlo Ghega 7, tel. +39 040 37 00 40,

Savoia Excelsior Palace D-4, Riva del Mandracchio

69/+39 40 63 92 84, [email protected], www.hotelalabarda.it. Another affordable budget hotel in the centre of Trieste. This one sells itself mostly on its excellent position, only a few minutes in either direction to the Piazza dell’Unita d’Italia or the bus/train station. As is customary in Trieste pets are welcome at no extra charge, and the breakfast is free (the two are in no way connected). Like most things at this establishment, the rooms are quite basic; unpadded chairs, small fans (no AC) and no WiFi access in the rooms, although you do get an LCD TV. Fair value for short stays. Q Singles from €33, double from €45. TA6W

Albergo Alabarda Valdirivo 22, tel. +39 040 63 02

Residence Sara Via dei Capitelli 4, tel. +39 040

Casa Rosandra Localita’ Mattonaia Triestina 217,

Around Trieste
Davost Via Tagliamento 26, Forni di Sopra, tel.
+39 0433 88103, fax +39 0433 886775, info@ hoteldavost.it, www.hoteldavost.it. This charming family-run mountain lodge makes a perfect base for hitting the slopes or exploring the surrounding national parks. Located in the quaint alpine village of Forni di Sopra in the Eastern Dolomites, Hotel Davost is a mere 500m from the ski lifts and you don’t even need to leave your room to enjoy the setting with most rooms offering impressive mountain views. The hotel also has an excellent restaurant attached, serving up delicious local specialities including 60 local grappa’s (we don’t recommend trying them all at once though!). Q Half board €49-60/person, full board €54-66/person.

Nuovo Albergo Centro E-3, Roma 13, tel. +39 040 34 78 790/+39 040 34 75 258, info@hotelcentrotrieste. it, www.hotelcentrotrieste.it. One of the ‘is it a hostel or is it a hotel?’ breed that offer simple, modern accommodation with a lot included for a very reasonable price. The ‘New Hotel Centro’ (as they haphazardly call it in English) is located approximately halfway between the Grand Canal and the central train station, has formidable rooms (bright, quiet, very clean, modern, spacious), a solid breakfast buffet, library, lounge and most importantly a bar. The en-suite is recommended over the slightly cramped shared washing facilities. Bike rental is also a nice addition. Q Singles €30-60, doubles €45-80, triples €90-108, quads €100-140. Parking is additional €8/ day. TA6LW

San Dorligo della Valle-Dolina, tel./fax +39 040 832 3463, www.casarosandra.com. The ever-popular Casa Rosandra restaurant also offers six large, sparkling clean and modernly renovated rooms upstairs. Located just beyond the industrial areas in the far south of the city, it’s some 8km from the centre of Trieste, making it a preferred option for business travellers or others who would like to visit the nearby town of Muggia or the Val Rosandra nature reserve without having to worry about navigating Trieste’s centre or finding parking. A good value option if you’re just passing though and have your own car, while the restaurant downstairs is also a major plus. Q 6 rooms.

Hostels
Ostello Tergeste Viale Miramare 331, tel. +39 040 22 41 02, [email protected]. With a slightly lower than typical hostel price, the Ostello Tergeste is to be found in a pretty location on the sea front, not far from Miramare Castle. Sadly that’s where its virtues end, with a shabby breakfast (included), unreliable internet and sparse eating options in the immediate vicinity of the place (restaurant/pizzeria within 20min walk). At least the staff are your quintessential chirpy Italians. Overall if you can forgive its shortcomings it’s not too bad for the price. Q Dorms €17, doubles with shared bathrooms €38, en-suite double €46. TR

Apartments
Residence Le Terrazze Filzi 21, tel. +39 040 36
98 22, info@residenceleterraz zetrieste.it, w w w. residenceleterrazzetrieste.it. The wild card ‘Le Terrazze’ gives those who like to be independent on holiday (and save a euro or two) the opportunity to stay in attractive accommodation (rated four-star) but have their own kitchen, even with a washing machine. This is essentially an ‘apartment hotel’, situated in a modern block, the top floors of which look out over the sea. If you don’t mind the lack of staff overnight and making your own breakfast it’s impressive. Q 49 apartments (singles €50-130, doubles €70-150, triples €100-170, quads €130-200). P6LXW

B&Bs
B&B Petra Mazzini 4, tel. +39 333 575 3017/+39
040 260 2796, [email protected], www.bedandbreakfastpetra.com. With this tastefully renovated B&B you don’t just get a plain bed and spot of breakfast, but also Giorgio, the dedicated and attentive host. He runs the place

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Symbol key
P Air conditioning J City centre location H Conference facilities L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms D Sauna W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted T Child friendly R Internet K Restaurant C Swimming pool B Outside seating

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U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre

Opening Time 12.00 - 14.30 19.00 - 23.30
Closed for lunch from Monday to Thursday in Winter Closed for lunch on Monday in Summer

would expect the service is top-notch, and Robert the manager (whose father opened the place some four decades ago) is often on hand to make personal recommendations. With only twenty or so seats in the main dining rooms reservations are a must. QOpen 19:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. Trieste-style fast food at the legendary Trattoria Da Giovanni

Antica Ghiacceretta D-4, Via dei Fornelli, tel. +39

Fish
Ai Fiori D-5, Piazza Attilio Hortis 7, tel. +39 040 300633, [email protected], www.aifiori.com. Owned and operated by a friendly husband and wife team (the former bearing a striking resemblance to a younger Al Pacino - which is always a positive in our book!), Ai Fiori may have kept the name, sign and awning of the original 1940s restaurant here, but the service, ambience and cuisine has all been brought into the 21st century. Specialising in fresh seafood, the menu is reassuringly short and focussed, but offers ample selection and changes frequently depending upon what’s in season. Daily set menus are a great value at only €10, and during the warmer months a pleasant terrace is set up under the trees on the square. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00, Sun 19:00-23:00. Closed Mon in spring and summer. PTJAB Al Bagatto D-4, Via Cadorna 7, tel. +39 040 301771,
[email protected], www.albagatto.it. Hailed by local gourmands and international food critics alike as the best restaurant in Trieste, we feel safe in dispensing with our usual need to mitigate such statements by affixing ‘one of’ in front of it, and can wholeheartedly agree with those who literally eat for a living. The menu is orientated firmly towards the nearby Mediterranean Sea, with local specialities given permanent places on the otherwise frequently changing menu. As one

040 322 0307, [email protected], www. anticaghiacceretta.com. At first glance the renovated stone entryway and peach-coloured façade here doesn’t exactly stand out from the countless other buildings with „Trattoria“ signs in Trieste’s old town. However, upon closer inspection it becomes apparent that Ghiacceretta is anything but run of the mill. With bright modern décor, stylish Tuscan glassware, and attentive multi-lingual staff, this exceedingly popular fish-centric restaurant offers a fresh take on traditional local cuisine. The menu changes daily depending on what’s been bought from the fishermen just a few steps away at the waterfront, while the desserts are also highly recommended. QOpen 12:30 - 14:30, 19:30-23:00. Closed Sun. 2410 446, [email protected], w w w. arcoriccardo-ristorante.it. Deriving both its name and notoriety from the ancient Roman-era archway that has been partially incorporated into the building, the newest incarnation of the restaurant opened here in 2006, but its tradition dates back to at least the beginning of the 19th century, and counts James Joyce among its former loyal patrons. Nowadays it’s owned by chef Luca Gioiello, who oversees a menu of largely traditional seafood specialties, with a few modern interpretations and more unusual combinations also included. Located on a quiet old square, the small terrace outside opposite the restaurant is an exceptionally pleasant place to dine. Q Open 12:00-14:30, 19:00-23:30. Closed for lunch Mon-Thur in the winter, and Mon in summer. PJAU

ARCORICCARDO RISTORANTE di Luca Gioiello - Via del Trionfo 3/a - TRIESTE (+39) 0402410446 - [email protected]
El Fornel Via dei Fornelli 1, tel. +39 040 322 0262, ww.elforneltrieste.com. It would be a stretch for us to say that the food is the best you’ll ever have, but the prices are reasonable, the location great and the maritime décor spot on - it’s also one of the few places in town open on Sundays. We’ve heard some mixed reviews about the pleasantness and efficiency of the service, but personally we’ve never had any complaints (although speaking Italian surely helps in that regard). We usually opt for the mixed deep fried plate or the fish of the day, but there are ample pasta, risotto and other seafood choices. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €7-15. El Fritolin Miramare 271, tel. +39 040 251 313, www. elfritolintrieste.com. It doesn’t get any more authentic than this seafood shack on the road to Miramare. With only a one page laminated menu the selection isn’t great - deep fried calamari and sardines reign supreme - but the smells wafting out of the open kitchen are as powerful as a Sirens’ song to passing motorists. The old man who runs the place doesn’t speak any English, but there’s a good chance he’ll overfill your carafe of above average table wine and leave a couple of items off you bill. Q Mains €8, sides €5, half litre of wine €5. Hostaria ai 3 Magnoni Via dell’Eremo 243, tel. +39
040 910979, [email protected], www.ai3magnoni. com. One of our favourite places to dine in Trieste is not the easiest to find, but the experience is more than worth the effort. Set in a residential neighbourhood high in the hills above the city, taxi is the best option to get here, especially since the wine list is first-rate and meals invariably end with a round (or more) of homemade grappa. The owner and head chef Daniele Valmarin is as passionate about being the most charming and charismatic of hosts as he is about preparing the freshest, most delectable seafood in town, and the whole staff are genuinely welcoming and friendly. Highly recommended! Q Open 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:30, Mon-Tues by prior arrangement only. PTJB

Arcoriccardo D-5, Via del Trionfo 3a, tel. +39 040

Hostaria Malcanton E-4, Via Malcanton 10, tel. +39

040 241 0719. Just steps away from Piazza Unita you can settle into this cosy fish restaurant and let the hours pass by while listening to jazz, staring at the pictures of boats on the red walls and tucking into course after course of fine seafood - there’s even a small cocktail bar for a before or after meal tipple. The owners as always on hand to chat with guests and make personal recommendations, while the catch of the day is proudly displayed in the refrigerated case in the hallway near the entrance. Tasting menus with matching wines are a good option for those who’d like to try a bit of everything.

Montecarlo Via San Marco 10, tel. +39 040 662 545.

Situated in the popular San Giacomo neighbourhood, not far from the city centre, the Montecarlo doesn’t bear much likeness to its name from the outside. Specialising unsurprisingly in seafood, it is popular with Italian visitors to Trieste. The Hors d’oeuvres buffet is a favourite, and the menu offerings comprises around a dozen fish and vegetable based dishes. A bill is given on requests, and the pricing is somewhat ad-hoc, so best practice your Italian as to be seen in a favourable light by the friendly owner and staff. Q Open 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-14:30. Closed Mon.

SaluMare D-5, Via di Cavana 13a, tel. +39 040 322

9743, fax +39 040 460 6942, [email protected], www. salumare.com. Officially falling under the category of a seafood delicatessen, and aptly self-described as a ‘laboratory of fish’, the low-key but stylish SaluMare really comes alive in the evenings when it’s packed with locals drinking modestly priced regional wines by the bottle and sampling plate after plate of freshly prepared seafood appetisers. Of

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course that doesn’t mean you can’t stop by during the day to grab a sandwich, canapé, salad or some other wonderful seafood-based concoction from one of the only places in all of Italy that still hand smokes its fish. Q Open Tues-Sat 10:30-14:00, 18:30-22:00. Closed Sun-Mon.

Trattoria al Faro Scala Giuseppe Sforzi 2, tel. +39 040

Scabar Via Erta di Sant’Anna 63, tel. +39 040 810 368/+39 393 936 6747, www.scabar.it. A high-end seafood restaurant sitting high above Trieste, with pleasant views of the nearby Slovenian hills. The service is impeccable and surroundings immaculate (if a little understated), the summer heat being kept of the terrace area with awnings. A range of flavours is brought out of the very fresh seafood on offer here, also bequeathed by the seaside location are both Slovene and Italian wines (try the Malvasia). Don’t expect anything with regards to prices, so as to enjoy every morsel. The sampler menu highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Mon.

410092, [email protected], www.trattoriaalfaro.it. Trieste’s Faro della Vittoria (or Victory Lighthouse), is one of the tallest lighthouses in the world, making the nearby Trattoria al Faro relatively easy to find no matter if you’re arriving by car, bus or cruise liner. The restaurant’s cool leafy covered terrace, and the views it offers of the city and sea, is hard to beat, though the food itself is also top-notch. Unsurprisingly the menu is dedicated to seafood, namely, that which has been freshly pulled from the waters below, and if one dish in particular is worth mentioning it’s the fish jota, a thick stew that perfectly combines Italian and Slavic tastes. Q Open 12:30-14:30, 19:30-22:30. Closed for lunch Mon.

German
Buffet da Pepi E-4, Cassa di Risparmio 3, tel. +39 040
366 858, [email protected], www.buffetdapepi. com. A true institution and likely the the first answer to roll off the tongues of locals when asked for dining recommendations, Pepi’s has been serving a dizzying selection of pork dishes to the good citizens of Trieste since the AustroHungarian Empire was still at the peak of its powers and long before James Joyce ever set foot in the city, or 1897 to be more precise. Perhaps somewhat surprisingly (given its stellar reputation), the service is still roundly excellent, and it’s virtually impossible to go wrong with anything on the menu - unless of course you’re a vegetarian or don’t eat pork (in which case you should avoid this place for fear of being converted). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €8-17.

Via Rittmeyer 14 - Trieste - T +39 040 7600716 - www.pepeneropepebianco.it
your great steak, veal shank or rag pasta, in a distinguished setting. Popular with business parties of a lunchtime, whereas an evening meal (special occasion or not) allows you to keep an eye on the happenings of Piazza Unità d’Italia.

Tenda Rossa Strada Costiera 172, tel. +39 040 224

Suban Via Emilio Comici 2/D, tel. +39 040 54368,

Buffet Rudy F-3, Valdirivo 32, tel. +39 040 639 428,

buffetrudyspaten.it. While the remnants of Trieste’s AustroHungarian heritage can be seen throughout the city, Rudy’s is the quintessential haven of Bavaria culture, cuisine and of course beer - all straight from Munich to your table a few steps from the Mediterranean. A bit dark and cramped as any good beer hall should be, Rudy’s serves up a mouthwatering array of soups, dumplings, boiled meats, Bavarian specialities, and even a few Italian and Slovene dishes. Our favourite dishes include the Octoberfest Plate (with three kinds of wurst) and the tender sliced beef with rocket and Grana Padano cheese. Ordering a draught beer is not required, but should be. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €7-13.

[email protected], www.suban.it. The renown of this Trieste eatery is unsurpassed. Indeed, to call it an eatery is to not acknowledge the lengths to which the owner, Mario, and his family go to ensure their diners’ great experience. Exquisite dishes are prepared to perfection; meat grilled over hot coals represents just part of the flavourful and original menu. Specialised in looking after large groups, this extra-ordinary trattoria is ideal for a special occasion. As a matter of fact, with prices comparable with other lesser establishments, it should be on every visitor’s itinerary at least once.

214/+39 348 711 7688, [email protected], www. tendarossa.net. Overlooking the bay of Trieste and quite close to Miramare Castle, this mainly seafood restaurant is a sure winner for a romantic lunch or summertime dinner. The excellent cliff-top view comes at a price, of course, and the portions are on the small side. The cuisine however, also including meat dishes, is suitably tasty, so if you’re budget is not likely to be stretched it’s worth a visit. English to be found in the menus and from the staff. QOpen . Closed Tue.

Italian
Al Barattolo F-3, Piazza San Antonio Nuovo 2, tel. +39 040 631 480, [email protected], www.albarattolo.it. Located just off the Grand Canal in the shadow of the neoclassical façade of the Church of San Antonio Taumaturgo, Al Barattolo boasts one of the most comprehensive selections in town and is also one of the few restaurants that offers multicourse daily specials. Colourful menus are packed with even more colourful photos illustrating dishes ranging from all the Italian basics to numerous grilled meat options, but the real standouts here are the pizzas, which you could order every day for two months and never have the same kind twice. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. €7-22. Ego D-5, Via Felice Venezian 16/c, tel. +39 333 689
49 92, [email protected]. Run by a young enthusiastic couple, Ego is a shining example of the new school of culinary maestros that Trieste has been blessed with in recent years. While head chef Robert Ubaldini may not yet be thirty years old, he’s spent nearly half his life in the kitchen, getting his start at the tender age of sixteen in a five-star restaurant on Sardinia. The menu here can best be described

Ice Cream
Gelato Marco Malconton 16a, tel. +39 392 0788
230, [email protected], www.gelatomarco.com. Find the best ice cream in Trieste on a small side street just behind Pizza Unita. The proprietor Marco is a true maestro when it comes to preparing the various frozen cream-based concoctions beautifully presented in this small shop - all of which is done without using any artificial additives (GMO, hydrogenated fat, etc), as the only ingredients here are cream, fresh fruit, natural sugar syrup, a little water and lots of passion. In addition to dozens of different ice creams, from classic flavours to unique in-house specialties, there are also different types of ice cream cakes and other frozen treats.

International
660 606/ +39 366 380 9997. Contrary to what the name suggests, you should dress up as much as possible for this Italian/Mediterranean/chowder eatery. Fine dining is expensive in Italy these days, but here the quality lives up to even high expectations. Suited waiters will greet you with professionalism, also when requested advising on good wines to go with

Harry’s Grill D-4, Piazza Unità D’Italia, tel. +39 040

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as a contemporary interpretation of classic Trieste cuisine, with traditional regional ingredients presented in new and exciting ways. Likewise the space itself is a combination new and old, with minimalist red and white décor and an open kitchen set below a vaulted stone ceiling in an historic building. Highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00-23:00. Facebook page to see if a concert evening or other event is taking place while you’re in town. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00-22:30. Closed Mon. PJA

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Le Dune di Piero E-6, Via Riccardo Bazzoni 11/A-B,

tel. +39 040 322 9718/+39 339 782 8174, [email protected], www.ledunedipiero.com. Specialising in cuisine from the Abruzzo region, Le Dune is one of the rare undiscovered highlights of Trieste’s gastronomic scene (much like Abruzzo itself). Characterised by simple ingredients, which are combined to produce strong robust flavours, the food is a direct reflection of the region’s rugged mountain terrain combined with its long maritime traditions. In addition to the exceptional food, the genuinely friendly service and attention to details helps to set Le Dune apart, with Piero himself guiding patrons through the daily offers and ample wine list, while his mother works her magic in the kitchen. Hidden on a narrow residential street to the east of the castle, Le Dune is definitely one worth finding.

Trattoria Da Giovanni F-4, Via San Lazzaro 14b, tel. +39 040 639 396, www.trattoriadagiovanni.com. Opened in 1961, Da Giovanni is one of the oldest restaurants in Trieste, and has only got better with age. A exceedingly simple affair, the most popular item on the menu is the hand-sliced ham, served either in a small sandwich (mustard and horseradish optional) or just rolled up and stuck on the toothpick, while a selection of freshly prepared dishes (grilled vegetables, casseroles, fried fish, etc) is also always available. Quick, cheap and tasty, it’s a popular lunchtime or late snack stop for workers and students. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00, 16:30-22:30. Closed Sun.

Pizza
pizzeriadnapoli.it. We have two hard and fast rules for visitors to Italy: 1) Drink as much espresso as you can, and 2) Eat as much pizza and gelato as you can. Sticking to the second rule in Trieste we head straight to Pizzeria di Napoli, a couple of blocks west of the Piazza Unita. They offer up some of the city’s best pizzas cooked to perfection in the wood fired oven and what better way to complete a meal than with espresso (order it correto for a real treat) and gelato. QOpen 12:00 15:00, 19:00-23:30.

DNapoli D-4, Via Diaz 10, tel. +39 040 260 1141, www.

interior has been created to resemble a typical fish market, with lots of blue and white tiles, high wood-beam ceilings and a pizza oven doing its impersonation of a lighthouse. The seafood dishes a served simple and fresh, while a sign behind the counter charmingly assures guests that the pizzas are made with love.

Vegetarian
246 0420/+39 334 189 6029, www.zoefood.com. Walking into Zoe for the first time on a rainy Saturday gave us flashbacks to our days in Brooklyn, and not just because bagels feature prominently on the menu. Offering an assortment of organic (and mostly vegetarian/vegan) food, the place is guaranteed to be packed with a cross-section of healthconscious locals, who also appreciate a good meal as much as they do environmental sustainability. The menu is inspired by various cuisines from around the world, with Latin America featuring prominently, and the drinks (from fair trade coffee and coconut milk to Mexican beer and smoothies) are simply divine. If you’re as impressed as we are, there is information about franchising on their website. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sun 09:30 - 15:00.

Zoe Food D-5, Via Felice Venezian 24/A, tel. +39 040

Pepenero Pepebianco F-2, Via Cecilia de Rittmeyer

14a, tel. +39 040 760 0716, [email protected], www.pepeneropepebianco.it. Opened in 2008 in beautifully renovated and modernised premises that were previously used as a wine warehouse and before that a Habsburg-era stable for officers, Pepenero Pepebianco is the first restaurant of acclaimed chef Michele Grandi. Operating under a motto of ‘authentic passion’, the cuisine here is a balance between tradition and innovation, using fresh local ingredients and recipes, with modern culiinary techniques such as vacuum and low-temperature cooking. Most importantly, the results are delicious! Check their website or

Marinato D-4, Riva Nazario Sauro 4, tel. +39 040 310 412. In Trieste no restaurants are more common than those serving either seafood or pizza, but very few specialise in both - at least until Marinato opened in the spring of 2013. Located in a prime position along the waterfront promenade, just one block west of the grand Savoia Excelsior Hotel, Marinato’s

Peperino Pizza & Grill G-2, Via del Coroneo 19c, tel. +39 040 631234, www.peperinopizza.it. Specialising in Neapolitan cuisine from old family recipes, including of course the city’s famous pizza, Peperino is owned by the Pietro and Susanna, a entrepreneur from Naples and a former Miss Italy from Trieste respectively. The restaurant near Piazza Oberdan is especially popular with various well-known personalities from across Friuli Venezia Giulia, and it’s said that there’s hardly a show, concert or movie premier in the region that doesn’t end at Peperino, which is made easier by the fact that there are also locations in Udine and Pordenone, as well as Milan. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:30, Sat-Sun 19:00-23:30.

Around Trieste
Casa Rosandra Localita’ Mattonaia Triestina 217, San Dorligo della Valle-Dolina, tel./fax +39 040 832 3463, www.casarosandra.com. The fact that it’s located some 8km south of Trieste’s city centre, doesn’t seem to affect the popularity of this long-running pizzeria and restaurant. Packed at lunchtime with workers from the surrounding offices and factories, in the evening it’s sure to be bustling with families, large groups, various sports teams and the odd foreign tourist who finds their way out here. The pizzas are said to be legendary in these parts, although the menu also includes a wide selection of pastas, grilled dishes and international standards. Q Open 12:00-15:00, 18:30-23:00. Closed for lunch on Sat. PTALBSW

Quick Eats
Burger King Viale XX Settembre 25, www.burgerking.
it. Although we generally try to watch our waistlines, when it comes time to choose a ubiquitous international cheeseburger chain to dine at we’ve always tended to favour Burger King over the competition. We also have to say that when it comes to aesthetics Burger King’s Trieste outlet is a notch or two above what we’re used to - with backlit black signage on the façade and an interior that could easily be mistaken for a trendy modern bistro. No need to fret though, it is still the home of the Whopper. Q Open Sun-Thur 11:00-00:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-03:00. PTJAS

*senza glutine

McDonald’s Svevo 14, Torri d’Europa Shopping Centre, tel. +39 040 634 399, www.mcdonalds.it. Going against the usual trend of expanding their number of locations, once plentiful McDonald’s chain is now down to a single restaurant in Trieste, which is located on level three of the Torri d’Europa shopping centre in the far south of the city. If you find yourself craving a Big Mac while in town, bus lines 1, 8, 29 and night line B will all get you here from the city centre. Q Open Sun Thur 11:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 11:00-24:00. PTALS Street Food Trieste E-2/3, Piazza Luigi Amedeo Duca degli Abruzzi 3, tel. +39 328 842 4711, www.streetfoodtrieste.it. For those in a rush or have just had their fill of restaurant dining (as excellent as it may be in Trieste), head straight to the entrance to the passenger terminal at the port just north of the Grand Canal for some of the finest panini in town. The aptly named Street Food Trieste is actually a large gourmet food truck, which in addition to countless variety of sandwiches also serves salads, hamburgers, sausages and more. Home, or hotel, delivery is also possible.

The fish jota at Trattoria al Faro is one of many unique dishes to be found on menus in Trieste

Trieste In Your Pocket

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2013

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Cafés
Combing the legendary café culture of Habsburg-era Vienna with the insatiable love of coffee that can be found throughout Italy, relaxing at a few of Trieste’s many cafés is an integral park of any visit to the city. From the old haunts of James Joyce and true historical institutions to modern coffee bars and hip student hang outs, there is definitely something for every taste - as long as that taste involves roasted coffee beans! este that can rightly be considered as cultural and historical institutions unto themselves, Tommaseo may very well be our favourite. Named for the noted Italian linguist and writer Niccoló Tommaseo - an small exhibition of whom can be viewed in the glass case to your left upon entering - we feel at least a half more sophisticated whilst drinking coffee here. Wellworn wood floors and comfortable seating gives the place an intimate cosy feeling, but don’t be shocked when the bill for two cappuccinos doesn’t leave much change from a €10 note.

running café on Trieste’s main square has recently reopened under new management, with a new look and style. The kitchen is now run by noted young chef Raffaele Visciano, who has already made a name for himself with several other successful culinary ventures in the city and elsewhere in Italy. The menu includes some tasty, creative snacks to go with the great views, and more is in store for the future. Q Open 08:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 09:00-02:00.

Audace Caffe D-4, Piazza Unità D’Italia 3a. This long-

New

Caffe degli Specchi D-4, Piazza dell’Unità D’Italia 7, tel. +39 040 661 973, www.caffespecchi.it. Prime of prime locations, the ‘mirrors’ cafe sits on Piazza Unità d’Italia, Trieste’s gem of a main square. Of course the price you pay reflects the spot, but this is a place with a lot of history, in a famous coffee town. That combined with the location means that finding a outside on a sunny day (or inside if the weather is being uncooperative) can be a monumental task, especially when there’s a ‘unity square’ event going on. Caffe San Marco G-3, Via Cesare Battisti 18, tel. +39 040 363 538. An authentic Hapsburg, or even Viennese-style affair in central Trieste. Doesn’t look like there has been any attempt to update its look in the last 100 years, which is clearly long enough to warrant the term ‘antiquated’ rather than ‘dated’. Mahogany features and furniture, excellent coffee, good food and wine, and such a literary atmosphere as to allude to the presence of a modern day Joyce at one of the other tables. So many cafes well worth visiting in Trieste, this is certainly one of them. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Caffé Tommaseo E-3, Piazza Nicolò Tommaseo 4/C, tel. +39 040 362666, [email protected], www. caffetommaseo.com. One of several coffee houses in Tri-

Espressamente Illy F-4, Via delle Torri 3, tel. +39 040 765251, www.illy.com. Illy’s own-brand café is as trendy and popular as you would expect of a venture from one of the world’s top coffee producers. The long narrow bar is an exercise in functional chaos, with a crowd of jostling patrons shouting orders on one side and uniformed baristas running around on the other, but somehow everyone getting what they ordered posthaste. Find it in the pedestrian area just behind the Church of St Antonio Nuovo. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. 6B La Portizza E-4, Piazza della Borsa 5/B, tel. +39 338
192 8222, [email protected]. A bastion of youth culture in the city, La Portizza is a lively haunt after 7pm, with music, a noisy happy hour and overall festive atmosphere. Appropriately the description begins with the evening, but the venue’s attraction does not end there. Popular for breakfast, they serve snacks, coffee, the classic aperitif and a selection of wines from their long bar. Quick service and winning location (on one of the main squares) make it well worth a visit either day or night. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

Pasticceria Penso D-4, Via Armando Diaz 11, tel. +39 040 301 530, www.pasticceriapenso.com. Reputedly the best in the city, Penso is actually just a shop (unlike some of the ‘pasticceria’ which function as cafés too), but there is ample seating a couple of blocks away by the water. Perhaps their guests would never leave if they had chairs and tables inside, given that their cakes, pastries, chocolates, every imaginable sweet local delight, are top notch. Located a few streets south-west of Piazza Unità d’Italia.
tel. +39 040 636046, www.pirona.it. A visit to the famed Pirona café is a must for any literary connoisseurs or those who’ve come to Trieste for the full James Joyce experience. Opened around the turn of the 20th century by Alberto Pirona, Joyce was a frequent visitor here during his decade spent in the city, especially from 1910-12 when he lived just down the street. Historical novelty aside, they still turn out some fine pastries and other sweets, and also stock imported English jam, French tea and countless varieties of chocolate. Most locals pop in for a quick espresso and cream filled puff pastry on the way to or from work. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sun 07:30:13:30. TJN

Pasticceria Pirona G-5, Largo Barriera Vecchia 12,

Caffè Teatro Verdi
D-4, Piazza Verdi 1b, tel. +39 040 773 903, [email protected], w w w. caffeteatroverdi.com. A modern café located on the ground floor of one of Trieste’s most historic buildings - the famed Teatro Verdi - this place is a favourite stop for members of the city’s arts and culture crowd. From a breakfast brioche and coffee, to casual business lunches (ask for the daily special), to pre- and post-performance drinks in the evenings, Caffè Teatro Verdi is sure to be buzzing with activity no matter when you happen to drop by. And you don’t have to take our word for it - the café was selected by the prestigious Gambero Rosso for its Bars of Italy 2012 book.

Stella Polare F-4, Via Dante Alighieri 14, tel. +39

040 632742. The ‘north star’ is indeed a blinding light, showing wandering (locals) the way through it’s doors since all the way in 1865. Through the city’s ages it has also been shifted around, in 1904 the old building in which it was housed was demolished and it was temporarily at home in a pavilion of wood and plaster, before assuming its current spot. At its peak the cafe had pool halls, meeting rooms, and was frequently visited by by German colonial merchants and intellectuals. Nowadays affordable food and abundant sweets add to the beverage offerings, the surroundings elegant and historic.

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Nightlife
is one of the most popular places for Trieste’s cool crowd to hang out. If you’re just passing through town, and thus sadly not a card carrying member of the Italian literati, you can still appreciate the comfy seating, cosy atmosphere, lively buzz of conversations and free-flowing drinks. Find it down a side street off Via Cavana, in close proximity to many other recommendable nightlife venues. Q Open 10:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. Closed on Sun in winter.

Nightlife
Wine Bars
tel. +39 339 247 1018. One of several newly opened nightlife venues in the now super trendy Cavana neighbourhood, the original stone walls and brick arches have been completely restored, giving the interior the warm ambiance of a wine cellar despite being at street level. The wines have been carefully selected by the owner from his favourite local and regional producers, and everything that’s available can be viewed on a large black chalkboard with (quite reasonable) per glass prices also listed. QOpen 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00-24:00.

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Ai Santi Vignaioli D-5, Via Felice Venezian 14,

Life Café D-5, Cavana 1, tel. +39 040 322 9802. A bit
on the swanky side (the ‘i’ in the logotype is rather noticeably a martini glass) but thankfully not enough to be considered pretentious, Life attracts hoards of Trieste’s well-dressed young professional set who come for the expertly prepared cocktails and buzzing conversation. Its position on the pedestrianised Via Cavana a couple minutes’ walk from Place dell’Unita d’Italia make it a convenient early stop during a night of bar hopping and pub crawling. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.

Angelina D-4, Via Luigi Cadorna 12/A. Not to be confused with the restaurant of the same name just across the street (which is quite easy as there is no sign), this so-called ‚champagneria’ is about as cool as they come, and is perhaps our favourite of the several new nightspots that have opened recently in the historic waterfront district. Set in the minimally renovated premises of a former slaughterhouse, the ambience of the place is not unlike that of an underground warehouse party, with a very mixed all-ages crowd. Try to grab a table in the back room, where seating is in low fold-out wooden chairs transplanted from a long-shuttered cinema.

Osteria Da Marino E-4, Via del Ponte 5, tel. +39 040 366

During the warmer months Trieste’s nightlife moves outside to various sidewalk cafés and wine bars, like here at SaluMare, one of our favourites, photo by YMB Trieste is not exactly a top destination for 24-hour party people, but it does have a very lively nightlife scene where a late afternoon aperitif can easily lead to an early morning taxi ride home, with a couple of typical local meals, several new friends and lots of memorable conversations often falling in between - at least that’s always been our experience. As with the rest of Italy, there is often a very fine line separating cafés and bars here, but in this section we’ve tried to include those that fit more squarely in the second category. If you’re looking for one area of town to concentrate your drinking efforts in, look towards the trendy Cavana neighbourhood to the west of Piazza Unità, where a cool new bar or restaurant seems to open every week or so these days. However, various other worthy beer halls, clubs, rock bars and more are scattered elsewhere in town.

596, [email protected], www.osteriadamarino. com. Our first impressions were disproved here, to a certain extent. After dropping by for a quiet sociable drink, which it looks perfectly suitable for, we decided to stay for dinner on a whim. We were well rewarded. The quality of food was, given the lack of expectation, all the more impressive. The steak with different varieties of salt, after a starter of pasta, was divine. There’s good wine, both local and international, available for €2-4 (at the time of writing: summer 2012), and the prices in general are extremely reasonable for such quality. Fantastico!

Gran Malabar F-4, Piazza San Giovanni 6, tel. +39

Circus F-4, Via San Lazzaro 9, tel. +39 040 633 499, www.circustrieste.com. This Trieste institution has been around for more than a decade, and is nothing short of an obligatory stop for the city’s cool crowd on any night out. While it may be lacking in acrobats and wild animals, the place does have personality to spare, with walls covered in an eclectic collection of framed movie posters, black and white photos and celebrity portraits, and an equally varied selection of music pumped out of the DJ booth behind the bar. It’s also open during the day for coffee, snacks or the perfectly acceptable late morning or early afternoon tipple. Golden Horse Via Eugenio Scomparini 7, tel. +39 040
947 303, www.golden-horse.it. As reliable as a golden horse unequivocally is, this one is a simple yet attractive, spacious yet cosy, social place to be. We were recommended the crepes with chocolate, which didn’t disappoint. There’s a range of beers (always welcome), and as such it is popular with the local youth, plus they open the doors in the summer. The food on offer fits the loose category of ‘European’. Located approximately three kilometres inland from the coast, near the natural history museum. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon.

Samovar F-4, Via Matteo Renato Imbriani 4, tel. +39

040 632547. It doesn’t get much more local than this small bar located down a side street just off the main Corso Italia shopping street. It makes for an interesting stop on a night of bar hopping, or a quiet place to take a break with an excellent coffee during the day - in either case you’re guaranteed to strike up a conversation with curious locals. Sandwiches and other small snacks are also available and have been thoroughly approved by In Your Pocket’s editorial team. 325, [email protected], www.tearoom-trieste. com. Trieste’s trendy set is sure to be on this new concept bar’s list of regular evening clientele, being super popular for after-work drinks, accompanied by bar snacks. Cocktails keep the party rolling until the early hours. Additional offerings in terms of food include pasta dishes and salads, so it also works for a light lunch (from their €10 menu). Worth checking out if there are any special events happening during your stay, for example wine tasting with buffet.

040 636 226, [email protected]. While you may not be able to tell from the nondescript green awning and kitschy mirrored sign above, this tiny corner bar is a Trieste institution and an absolute must for any fans of wine visiting the city. With some 600-700 different varieties lining shelves that almost reach the incredibly high ceilings, the focus is on vintages from the wine growing regions of Friuli Venezia Giulia and neighbouring Slovenia, but you can find bottles from around the world (a label from the Francis Ford Coppola winery in California caught our eye recently), as well as gregarious locals willing to share stories of the bar, the wine and old Trieste. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

Tea Room D-4, Via Luigi Cadorna 2, tel. +39 040 774

Pubs
Bennigan’s B-6, Economo 3, tel. +39 040 306 840,
www.benniganspub.com. Bennigan’s is more or less a fullfledged restaurant masquerading as a simple pub, but with nearly three dozen beers from around the world available and an unmistakeable pub vibe to its credit, we have no choice other than including it in our nightlife section. However, don’t let that dissuade you from stopping by for lunch or dinner, especially if you’re craving a burger, as you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better one anywhere in Trieste. Other dishes lean heavily towards central European cuisine, with the likes of potato dumplings, goulash and boiled pork with cabbage all in high demand. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €4-14.

Bars
in Trieste, most nights of the week you’re guaranteed to find a crowd of university-age kids spilling out of the tiny interior into the street, usually stopping by for a few drinks before heading somewhere else. Located just across the street from the central square it’s surprisingly non-touristy and reasonably priced - or at least for wine, beer will still set you back some €5 as it does most everywhere in town. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. JBX

Bar Stella D-4, Largo Pitteri 4. One of our favourite bars

The Tender A-5, Via Giulio Cesare 1, tel. +39 040 305

Caffe Rossetti H-3, Viale XX Settembre 45, tel. +39 040 3593511, www.ilrossetti.it. Again a fusion of bar/ restaurant and indeed caffe, Rossetti’s recipe comprises the main ingredients: haute cuisine cool music. Located in the elegant theatre of the most important theatre foundation of Trieste (Politeama Rossetti) means the walls are adorned with thespian faces, there’s soft lighting, and a soundtrack to please most artistic types (jazz, blues and indie-pop). Of the dishes on offer, the most prominant are perhaps those with fish (try the jota ‘in a box’ with smoked mackarel). That should be followed by dessert, coffee and, if it’s Saturday, dancing into the night. Trieste In Your Pocket

290 4247. One of our favourites in Trieste, and as you’ll see from the cool crowds spilling out into the adjacent streets we’re not the only ones who feel this way. The first time we came here there was either a live band playing Ryan Adams covers or Ryan Adams himself playing an unannounced gig - and Grip is the kind of place where the latter would not be surprising. Located just below the southern walls of the castle, from Wednesday to Saturday you can expect to find a packed house, an eclectic choice of live music and somewhat eccentric staff members making sure no one goes without a drink. QOpen 22:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.

Grip Wunderbar E/F-5, Via San Giusto 22, tel. +39 380

654. Tucked away in the corner of an old railway station (Campo Marzio), the Tender counts as an ‘Irish-style’ pub, featuring ales, Guinness plus burgers, sandwiches and grilled meat galore. Theme parties make their appearance here on occasion, including karaoke, group dances and a locally legendary carnival party. Parking also available, although probably not wise if arriving in the evening hours (what with all that ale on offer, and the fact that it’s open till 3am). QOpen 11:00 - 03:00.

Knulp D-5, Madonna del Mare 7a, tel. +39 040 3000 21, [email protected], knulp.org. Café, bar, library, live concert venue, exhibition space, arthouse cinema and more, Knulp trieste.inyourpocket.com

Urbanis E-4, Piazza della Borsa 15, tel. +39 040 366 580. Situated halfway between the Piazzas Della Borsa and Unità d’Italia, this very chic affair is a pavement-side haunt of many come evening. Especially good for a drink on balmy summer evenings, when they also serve outside snacks with aperitif, cocktails, and host DJ sets for that matter. Average drinks and prices, but above average staff; friendly waiters work with passion and can remember a face. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. trieste.inyourpocket.com

Kapuziner D-4, Via Pozzo del Mare 1, tel. +39 040 307 997, [email protected], www.kapuzinerkellertrieste.it. A faithful reconstruction of a centuries-old Bavarian beer hall, Kapuziner is an atmospheric homage to Trieste’s Germanic heritage. Consisting of single long room with a high arched brick ceiling and walls decorated in all manner of faded signage, paintings, the checkered blue and white motif of the Bavarian flag and even a gigantic stag’s head mounted on the far wall, in the evenings the place gets packed with a youngish crowd that does its best to channel the raucous jubilance of Oktoberfest. There’s also a full menu of hearty German cuisine, and of course plenty of authentic Bavarian beer on tap. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00-23:00. Closed Sun. 2013

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What to see

What to see

Looking like something out of the latest computer generated Hollywood fantasy film, this shot of Miramare Castle and the Dolomites is entirely real, photo by Marino Sterle

Miramare Castle
041 277 0470/+39 040 224143, [email protected], www.castellomiramare.org. In Europe, there are definitely larger castles, more historically important castles, and castles with more renowned royal occupants, however, given Miramare’s position almost just metres above the Mediterranean Sea, with Trieste spread out before it to the south and the snow-capped Dolomites serving as a backdrop to the north, not to mention its unique architectural heritage and short but tumultuous history, for our money there is no finer castle anywhere on the continent. Built in the mid-19th century to serve as the private residence of Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian (the younger brother of Emperor Franz Joseph) and his new wife, Charlotte of Belgium, the castle’s architecture is a direct reflection of Maximilian’s somewhat eclectic tastes, combining elements the Gothic, Medieval and Renaissance schools that were popular amongst Habsburg nobility at the time. Completed in 1860, the young couple would spend only a few years here, as Maximilian became the Emperor of Mexico in 1864, and quite infamously met his demise only a few years later at the ands of republican forces. In the following decades Miramare was used as the occasional holiday residence by less foolhardy members of the Habsburg family, with Franz Ferdinand staying here only two months before his own assassination in Sarajevo. After WWI, the castle was partially opened to the public, and then served as the residence of various occupying forces (Germans, New Zealanders, the English and finally Americans) during and after WWII, before being returned to Italian control in 1954. The park grounds and castle museum were duly restored and reopened to the public one year later. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 14:00 - 19:00. Admission €6/4, €1 for EU citizens under 18 or over 65. Audio-guides €3.50, and guided tours €4 with advanced booking.

Essential Sights
Castello di San Giusto E/F-5, Piazza della Cattedrale 3, tel. +39 40 30 93 62. Trieste’s hilltop fortification is ironically overshadowed by its brother down on the seashore (Miramare), but the 15th century Castle of San Guisto is also worth a look, with several parts open to the public including a museum with suits of armour and weapons (for whoever’s fancy this may tickle). We personally appreciated the magnificent panoramic view it had to offer from its walls; the castle and fortifications having been built and extended progressively over two centuries. In fact, the castle itself was erected on the strategically formidable site of previous forts. See the Lapidario Tergestino for statues and architectural artefacts. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission €5.

Castello di Miramare Viale Miramare, tel. +39

City Sightseeing Bus Tel. +39 39 3917 2656, www. city-sightseeing.com. The famous red hop-on hop-off bus is the easiest and most convenient way to see all of Trieste’s major sights, without having to worry about hiring a guide, getting lost or hassling with parking. The route begins at the easy to find Stazione Marittima on the waterfront, traverses the narrow streets up to San Giusto castle and cathedral, and criss-crosses the hectic city centre before heading all the way out to Miramare castle and back. The entire route takes approximately one hour, but if you’d like to make a day of it and explore the sights in more detail or take a break for lunch, you can hop-off at any of the 13 stops along the way. Audio tours are available in seven languages, and tickets are also good for 48 hours, allowing for ample flexibility or repeated visits. Q Tours operate from March to October, with departures at 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00 and 17:00. Piazza dell’Unità d’Italia D-4. Trieste’s magnificent
main square is without question the most famous sight in the city centre, a hub of social activity and the source of immeasurable pride for locals. Said to be the largest sea-facing square in all of Europe at some 12,280m2, the space has undergone numerous changes over its more than 700 years of existence. Originally known as St Peter’s Square, for much

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What to see
of its history it was referred to simply as Piazza Grande (which nowadays is still used colloquially, along with the Slovene equivalent Veliki trg), before changing to Piazza Unità after the city was annexed by the Kingdom of Italy following WWI, and only settling on its more verbose current form in 1955 when the Free Territory of Trieste formally reverted to Italian control. Semantics aside, the square is fronted by some of the city’s most impressive and important buildings, as well as several large monuments, a couple of historical cafés and innumerable architectural details that are sure to provide camera-happy visitors with plenty to snap away at.

Tourist information
FVG Cards [email protected], www.turismofvg.
it. Good for the entire region of Friuli Venezia Giula, this is likely the best value tourist card we’ve ever come across in all our years of travel. Offering free admission to most major museums and public transport (in Udine and Lignano, but unfortunately not Trieste), as well discounts on various theatres, spas, parks, tours and specialty transportation services, even the shorter duration cards will pay for themselves in a hurry. They can be bought online or directly from any FVG tourist office, and at many hotels, travel agencies and other locations. Costs €15/20/29 for 48-/72-hour/7-day cards.

Teatro Romano E-4, Via del Teatro Romano. During the 1st and 2nd centuries the city of Trieste developed immensely, and as such received its ampitheatre around that time. Inscriptions on the structure implicate Q. Petronius Modestus as instrumental in its construction, which at the time exploited the gentle slopes overlooking the sea, however, progressive silting has meant the shore is now somewhat further out. Originally built of both stone and wood structure (the stands having been made of the former, the top steps and stage the latter), the quintessential Roman edifice continues to impress, its statues (previously decorating the theatre) now on exhibition at the town museum. Q Admission free.

Museums & Galleries
Civico Acquario Marino C-4, Molo Pescheria 2, tel. +39 040 306 201, fax +39 040 302 563, museisci@ comune.trieste.it, www.retecivica.trieste.it. Trieste’s city aquarium is easy to find along the waterfront, as it’s housed in one wing of the former fish mongers building, distinguished by a red brick façade and large bell tower - the latter actually constructed to obscure an unsightly water-pumping mechanism. Originally constructed in 1913, the aquarium was opened in 1933 and is now home to many species primarily from the Adriatic sea. In 1998, an exhibition of amphibians and reptiles was also added on the first floor, while the star attractions here are usually considered to be the pair of South African penguins, who unofficially double as the institutions mascots. Q Open Tues-Sun 09:00-19:00 from 1 April to 31 Oct. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50 for adults, €2.50 reduced, children under 5 free. Civico Museo Teatrale Carlo Schmidl Rossini 4, tel.
(+39) 40 67 54 072, [email protected], www.retecivica.trieste.it. A specialised collection dedicated to theatre and music, the museum was initially set up in 1924 by its namesake composer and until the early 1990s

tel. +39 040 3478312, fax +39 040 3478320, [email protected], www.turismofvg.it. Trieste’s official tourist information centre is located just off the main square, opposite Harry’s Bar and the entrance to the Grand Hotel Duchi d’Aosta. Run by TurismoFVG - the well-organised regional tourist authority for all of Friuli Venezia Giulia - the office has a wealth of information about Trieste and the rest of the region in several languages, including guides organised both by city and theme. Visitors can also purchase FVG cards (good for free or discounted admission to hundreds of sights and venues in across the region), rent audio tours, and get up-to-date info about everything that’s going on in town. Q Open 09:00-18:00, 09:00-13:00 Sun & holidays (Oct-Apr), 09:00-19:00, 09:00-13:00 Sun & holidays (May & Sept), and 09:00-19:00 everyday from Jun-Aug. was located in the Verdi Opera House. Nowadays the museum is housed in the Palazzo Gopcevic, a colourful edefice of mixed styles (built in 1850 by Giovanni Berlam) on the Canal Grande. The collection includes two constituent parts: an exhibition covering the 19th and 20th centuries, with a large variety of theatrical costumes, posters, programs, musical instruments (including grand piano, harmonium) on display; and a documentation centre with a library (containing 100,000 pieces especially on music and entertainment) and internationally significant archives. The Gopcevic location was unveiled in 2006, and has an interior of beautiful inlaid floors and ornate ceilings, making it the perfect place to retreat to for a relaxing afternoon. Q Exhibition open Tues-Sun 09:00-19:00, closed Mon. Library and documentation centre open Mon & Wed 09:00-16:00, Tues, Thur & Fri 09:00-13:00, closed Sat-Sun. Admission €3.50/2.50. Free for children under 5 years.

Trieste Tourist Office D-4, Via dell’Orologio 1,

ph M.Milani

Discover Friuli Venezia Giulia’s art and culture!
The Habsburg charm in Trieste, the grace of Tiepolo’s works in Udine, the Roman mosaics in Aquileia, the sixteenth-century palaces in Pordenone, the castle of Gorizia, the ancient parish churches and villages. A holiday in Friuli Venezia Giulia means discovering thousands of stories.

One of Trieste’s most famous residents has immortalised with a statue on the Grand Canal, photo by Branka Jovanović

Museo d’Arte Orientale D-4, San Sebastiano 1, tel. (+39) 40 32 20 736. The first and only museum in the region dedicated to the arts of Asia. Spread over an surprisingly large space, four floors to be exact, its collection features four clearly defined sections. The first introduces relations between Trieste and the East during the 18th and 19th centuries (presumably in connection with industrialisation), the second exhibits Gandharan Buddhist sculpture, the third has all manner of textiles, ceramic ritual artifacts and of course chinaware (well you didn’t think they would forget that one). Confusingly the Japanese section (the fourth and final) also has chinaware, and if you can get over that there are also masks, musical instruments and weapons to gawk at on a lazy afternoon. The usual guided tours and bookshop are not absent from the museum. Note that at the time of writing it is closed for ‘technical reasons’. Q Open Wed & Sat 09:0013:00. Admission €3/2 for adults/children. trieste.inyourpocket.com

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Trieste In Your Pocket

32

What to see
Museo Revoltella (Galleria d’Arte Moderna) Diaz
27, tel. +39 040 675 4350, fax +39 040 675 4137, [email protected], www.museorevoltella.it. Our favourite Italian museum east of Venice, the Revoltella owes its existence (and name) to the baron Pasquale Revoltella, who bequeathed his palace, art collection and other personal effects to the city upon his death in 1869. Born to a wealthy Venetian family, the baron did quite well for himself in Trieste, making a fortune in the timber industry, and later serving as one of the driving forces behind the construction of the modern Suez Canal. Several of the palace’s rooms, including the baron’s private residence, have been preserved with their original furnishings and make up part of the impressive collection. In 1907, the adjacent Brunner Palace was purchased by the city, which allowed for museum to be greatly expanded, while further renovations have brought the current exhibition space to more than 4000 square metres. The museum’s collection of art includes both paintings and sculptures, primarily comprised of works from the second half of the 19th and early 20th centuries, as well as more recent works from artists from the Friuli Venezia Guila region and elsewhere in Italy. While you won’t find any of the art world’s biggest names here, the diverse selection on display provides a fairly comprehensive overview of Italian art from the past two centuries, and offers plenty of priceless works to feast your eyes on. Additionally, the building itself is a stunning architectural specimen, and in the summer months the top floor café and terrace stay open late from Thursday to Sunday. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission €6.50/4.50. Guided tours for up to 30 people €55 by pre-arrangement.

What to see

33

Churches
Basilica di San Giusto E-5, Pia z za della Cattedrale 1. Sitting atop the same hill as the Castle of San Guisto, the cathedral dedicated to the same patron Saint also offers spectacular views of the city and can be reached by Scala dei Giganti from Piazza Goldoni. The current structure with Karst stone joined two existing churches in the 14th Century. The styles are said to incorporate both Roman and Byzantine trademarks, and frescoes and mosaics, including the town’s patron St. Justus, adorn the interior as does a very impressive Virgin Mar y with child and the Apostles. The beau tiful rose window is unmissible. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00. Admission free.

Palmanova

Tel. +39 0432 924 815, [email protected], www. palmanova.it. Criminally underrated and/or overlooked, few people outside of the region have even heard of Palmanova or confuse the Renaissance town with the much more widely known outlet shopping centre located nearby. In fact, we admittedly only ‘discovered’ Palmanova by accident one day while checking directions to a Radiohead concert at Vila Manin on Google Maps! Built by the Venetians at the very end of the 16th century, both to commemorate a large European military victory over the Turks and to serve as a new easternmost defensive garrison against any future incursions, the town consists of several concentric circular ring roads surrounded by a nine-sided defensive wall and moat with outer walls also in the form of a perfect nine-sided star. Roads radiate out towards one of the three gates from the large central square, on which sits a now slightly lopsided glistening white cathedral. In all the town covers an area of some 13.33 square kilometres, and is still home to some 5000 inhabitants. There may not be many classic sights to visit here, but the town itself is one incredible large open-air museum, and there are several fine restaurants, cafés and shops to stop by during a day-trip here. The well-stocked tourist information office just off the main square has maps and brochures highlighting several different walking paths in and around the town, as well as info about the wider Friuli Venezia Giulia region. The whole town has been a protected national monument since 1960, and the road there is well-marked from the exit on the A4 motorway.

Chiesa di San Spiridione E/F-3, Via San Spirodione 9. Located at the crossroads of Europe’s major ethnic and religious communities, it’s no surprise that Trieste has long been a diverse and exceptionally tolerant city in terms of culture and religion, a historical fact that can largely be traced back to Empress Maria Theresa’s decision to allow the free practise of religion in 1751. One of the most tangible signs of this heritage is the magnificent Seribian orthodox church set just off the Grand Canal. Dedicated to the Greek Cypriot Saint Spyridon - whose diverse patronage includes potters, the island of Corfu and the Tolstoy family of Russia - the hulking multi-domed structure is of typical Byzantine style and dates back to 1869. Of special interest are the nine statues by Milanese artist Emilio Bisi adorning the front façade, and the large silver lamp hanging inside the main entrance, which was a gift from Russian Tsar Paul I.

Synagogue San Francesco 19, tel. (+39) 40 37 14 66,

[email protected], www.triestebraica.it. Originally built at the beginning of the 20th, the Jewish house of worship in Trieste is one of the biggest and most important in Europe. It is said to encompass a blend of architectural styles including late Roman (as was seen in fourth Century Syria), and a tall dome is supported by four marble pillars. There’s also a rose window with star of David depiction. Having been unveiled in 1912, the church had a period of second world war closure, to be reopened immediately after.

Parco Naturale Prealpi Giulie
Piazza del Tiglio 3, Prato Di Resia, tel. +39 0433 53534, www.parcoprealpigiulie.it. Travelling around Italy one is amazed by the cultural and historical richness of the country. Venture off the regular tourist path and you’ll also find some incredible natural wonders. FruiliVenezia Giulia is a melting pot of cultures; just visit a bar in the region where you’re likely hear Italian, Slovene and German spoken at the one table. The region is also a natural melting pot as the confluence of three distinct biogeographic areas, Mediterranean, Illyrian and Alpine. If you want to experience this clash of cultures and landscapes then look no further than the Julian pre-alps nature park (Parco Naturale Prealpi Giulie). The nature reserve sits on the Slovene-Italian border at the site of one of the First World War’s fiercest frontiers. Apart from its historical significance the park has stunning natural scenery and a rich biodiversity, with impressive forests, wildflowers and wildlife, all present though you’ll need luck to spot the elusive chamois. The park offers something for everyone, from easy walking paths to challenging multi-day hikes with mountain hut accommodation on-route. The area is also popular with mountain bikers and in winter brave souls can try snowshoeing (available to rent at the visitor centre). The visitors centres dotted around the park offer excellent information (only in Italy do park rangers give local restaurant advice) whilst in Resiutta on the park’s northern boundary, there is also an interesting Mining Museum detailing the regions rich mining history. The villages around the park are also well worth checking out with rich cultural histories and sights such as a handful of 12th to 14th-century churches and abbeys.

Around Trieste
Azienda Agricola Foffani Piazza Giulia 13, Clauiano, Trivignano Udinese, tel. +39 0432 999 584, fax +39 0432 999 800, [email protected], www.foffani.it. For an afternoon wine tasting or a relaxing stay in the Friulian countryside, you won’t find a more authentic or welcoming destination than the Foffani estate. Located on the main square in the tiny village of Clauiano, the entirety of which is a protected cultural site, the property has been in the same family since the 16th century and has been producing wine since the late-18th century. Giovanni and Elisabetta are quite simply the perfect hosts, with Giovanni gladly discussing the technicalities of his wine production during a tasting or a tour, and Elisabetta enthusiastically regaling guests with stories from the history of the family, the estate and the village. Above the rustic tasting room there’s a permanent art exhibition entitled I Colori del Vino, featuring various wine-related works including poetry, knitware, music and mosaics - the latter can also be seen in the form of two large sculptures by Maestro Giulio Candussio in the courtyard outside, representing white and red wine of course. Mosaics also find their way onto one of several labels that the Foffani’s wine is hand-bottled under, the most popular of which is the line of so-called Flower Wines that includes a white Merlot trieste.inyourpocket.com

Crowds gather to watch a spectacular sunset on Molo Audace, photo by Branka Jovanović 

Trieste In Your Pocket

trieste.inyourpocket.com

2013

34

What to see
and a sweet Muscat rosé, both of which are exported around the world. As is common practice when visiting wine producers, if you come here for a tasting you’ll be encouraged to try a bit of everything, in which case spending the night in the family’s bed and breakfast is a good option. Two charming rooms are available for overnight stays, both offering an authentic farmhouse experience (creaky wooden floors, period furniture) with modern en suite bathrooms and a kitchen downstairs. Even for those not enamoured by the excellent wine, the estate is perfectly situated for exploring the surrounding countryside by car or bike during longer stays, with the Dolomites, Trieste and even Venice all easy day trips from here. 327 312, [email protected], www.grottagigante.it. Found just outside Villa Opicina in the hills above Trieste, Grotta Gigante (or literally Giant Cave) may not have the most original name, but when you’re widely considered to be the largest tourist cave in the entire world - including by the reputable folks at the Guinness Book - you don’t really need one. First explored in 1840 and was opened to the public in 1908, however, it only became a top tourist destination after electricity was finally installed in 1957. The cave consists almost entirely of one immense chamber, which measures an mind-boggling 168m long, 76m wide and nearly 100m high. Guided tours last just under one hour, and also include admission to the newly built museum and education centre above ground. Q Guided tours depart every hour from 10:00-16:00 from Oct to March, and 10:00-18:00 from April to Sept. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec, and on Monday except in July and Aug. Admission €11 for adults, €9 students/pensioners and €8 for kids aged 6-16.

Shopping
Parovel Zona Artigianale Dolina 546, San Dorligo della Valle, tel. +39 346 759 0953, www.parovel.com. The Parovel family has been producing high quality wine, olive oil and other agricultural products at the foothills of the majestic Val Rosandra nature reserve since the second half of the 19th century - long enough to witness the strong winds of history sweeping through the territory on more than a few occasions. Literal winds also routinely leave their mark on the land, resulting in a rich clay soil that combined with the Mediterranean climate creates the perfect environment for wine and olive farming. Since the 1970s newer generations of the family have undertaken the modernisation and expansion of the homestead, which is currently overseen by siblings Elena and Euro. In 2006 a beautiful new cantina was opened that can accommodate groups of visitors both large and small for wine tastings, guided tours, degustation menus and full meals. Various other special events are also arranged throughout the year, including the twice-yearly Osmizza culinary feast known, which is always one of personal favourites. Risiera di San Sabba Ratto della Pileria 43, tel. +39
040 82 62 02, [email protected]. Originally built in 1913 as a rice husking facility, this large red brick structure was transformed by fascists in the second world war into a concentration camp. The Nazis supposedly executed thousands here (although reported actual numbers vary), and shipped many more off to Auschwitz. At the end of the war and it was closed by Yugoslav partisans liberating the city, and then served as a refugee camp for Italians fleeing Yugoslavia. The museum there now is reachable by taking bus 8 from the main train station. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

35

Grotta Gigante Borgo Grotta Gigante 42a, tel. +39 040

Duino Castle
Castello di Duino Duino Aurisina, tel. +39 040 208 120, fax +39 040 20 71 398, info@castellodiduino. it, castellodiduino.it. Perhaps not as well-known as the glistening white Castello di Miramare, th e imp osin g Duin o Cas tl e a bi t fur th er up the coast is every bit as impressi ve. Constructed at the beginning of the 1300s on a rock y bluff overlooking the sea, over the centuries the si te acquired a repu tation as a centre of cul ture, coun tin g amon g i ts guests num erou s n o ta bl e fi gure s from the Habsburg empire Listz, Strauss, Archduke Franz Ferdinand and the poet Rainer Maria Rilke, who composed two of his most famous works while staying here. At the end of the 19th century, the castle became the property of the Czech branch of the House of Thurn and Taxis, and today is still officially the private residence of the Princes della Torre e Tasso. However, much to the delight of those of use who are not members of European nobility (and tourists in general), the castle was opened to the public in 2003. On guided tours it’s possible to visit some two dozen historically important rooms, as well as an eerie WWII Trieste In Your Pocket

Not much has changed at the drugstore opened by Vittorio Toso back in 1906

Fashion
467, [email protected], www.boranera.it. An inherently Triestine fashion brand, Bora Nera (or black wind) was created by former professional basketball player Fabrizio Zarotti as an homage to his greatest passions: travel, adventure, sports and the sea in all its forms. Its distinctive logo is take directly from the famed Molo Audace

Bora Nera F-4, Corso Italia 20/D, tel. +39 040 635

monument located on the city’s waterfront promenade, which commemorates Trieste’s return to Italy following WWI - which is fitting as the clothes themselves are made in Italy using the highest quality materials. Items for both men and women are distinguished by refined details and fashionable cuts. The Bora Nera shop in Trieste is located in the city’s main shopping district.

Markets
Mercato Coperto G-4, Carducci 36, tel. +39 040 762 919. With its curving Art Moderne style façade and excess of windows, Trieste’s Market Hall stands out from its immediate neighbours, as well as almost every other building in the city. Built in 1936 by a rich local merchant in order to provide shelter for small vendors from the cold bitter winds that often sweep through the region, the building itself and its occupants remain little changed to this day. The ground floor features a varied assortment of stalls hawking fresh (mostly organic) fruit and vegetable, meat and fish, spices and flowers, and some typical Triestine culinary specialties, such as succulent ham baked inside bread. On upper floor there’s a dizzying selection of products from clothes and shoes to souvenirs and collectible items (antiques, paintings, books, vinyl records), with the whole place being a bit reminiscent of the flea markets of Paris and Amsterdam, or a smaller version of the Great Market Hall in Budapest. Q Open 08:00-17:00, Mon08:00-14:00. Closed Sun.

bunker built by the Germans and the sprawling castle park that winds along the cliffs on several different levels and boasts more than 21,000 flowers. Weddings, conferences, exhibitions and gala dinners can also be arranged, while the castle hosts concerts, theatrical per formances and other cul tural events from time to time. Q Open Wed-Mon 09:30-17:30 (Apr-Sept), 9:30-16:00 (Mar & Oct). Closed Tuesday. In winter open only at weekends 09:30-16:00. Admission €8, €5/7 (groups), €3.50/5.00 (discount), free for children six and under.

Marina Rinaldi F-4, Corso Italia 11/B, tel. +39 040 348 0566, www.marinarinaldi.com. Launched within the Max Mara Fashion Group over three decades ago, the Marina Rinaldi brand is dedicated to producing high quality fashionable garments and accessories for plus-sized women. Named after the founder’s grandmother, who herself owned a dressmakers shop in back in the mid-19th century, the brand was one of the first in the world to bring the latest fashion trends to women who don’t resemble the models on the runways of Milan and Paris. In Trieste Marina Rinaldi’s shop can be found in the city’s de facto shopping district, not far from Max Mara. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sun 11:00 - 13:00, 15:30-19:30. Max Mara F-4, Corso Italia 20/1, tel. +39 040 636 723, www.maxmara.com. Founded in 1951 by Achille Maramotti, who’s family had been involved in luxury fashion for generations, Max Mara was one of the first Italian fashion houses to establish the model of producing high quality manufactured clothing, following the lead of haute couture collections, but maintaining more affordable prices. The rest, as they say, is history, and today Max Mara has grown into one of the world’s leading high fashion retailers, with of course a proliferation of shops the country of its birth, Italy, including a large elegant boutique on Corso Italia in Trieste. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. 2013

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36

Shopping
Stranomavero D-5, Via Felice Venezian 7b, tel. +39
040 302334, www.stranomavero.biz. Started several years ago as small open-air stand selling the jewellery of local designer Antonella Caprioli, the unique handmade items quickly proved popular with customers, necessitating the move to this large shop in Trieste’s trendy Cavana neighbourhood. In addition to jewellery, which is still made by Ms Caprioli in a small workshop onsite, Stranomavero offers a range of fashion from up-and-coming young designers from across Italy and elsewhere in Europe. Most of the labels may not yet be household names, but all have been carefully selected for the unique styles they produce, and the super friendly staff will be glad to give more info about each of them. A second smaller shop is located across the street, and functions both as an discount outlet and seasonal showroom. Q Open 09:30-13:00, 15:30-19:30, Wed 09:30-19:30. Closed Sun-Mon. to exist in the 21st century. However, somewhat reassuringly many of the customers are from the younger generations, as natural products stocked here have once again come back in fashion, and will hopefully ensure that the legendary Toso continues on for another hundred years. Q Open 08:0013:00, 16:30-19:00, Mon & Wed 16:30-19:00. Closed Sun.

Peratoner D-4, www.peratoner.it. Legendary Peratoner

chocolate is a direct reflection of founder and chocolate artisan Guiseppe Fag giotto’s passion for creating the world’s best sweets. Beginning with carefully selected raw ingredients, his so-called chocolate laboratory in the town of Pordenone produces an astounding variety of chocolate bars, pralines, sculptures, novelty figures and delightful treats whose only limit is the imagination. In Trieste you can find Peratoner prominently displayed in many of its forms at the famed Caffe dei Specchi on Piazza Unità d’Italia.

Gifts & Souvenirs
tel. +39 040 63 62 88. Virtually nothing has changed in this traditional drugstore since it first opened on Piazza San Giovanni in 1906 - the weather-beaten façade, the natural sea sponges hanging from the ceiling, and the aromatic mix of spices, soaps and other scents that overwhelms you upon entering all hail from a very different era that has almost ceased

Jewellery & Watches
Crevatin D-4, Via di Cavana 7a, tel. +39 040 304 316.
Originally opened as a watchmakers shop in 1947, the still family-run ​ Gioielleria Crevatin has been in its present location on Piazza Cavana for nearly fifty years. Specialising in jewellery, gifts and traditional home goods made primarily from gold and silver with precious or semi-precious gems, Crevatin stocks items exclusively made in Italy and favours small carefully selected producers that are able to combine traditional methods and quality with modern design. The now 80-something, but still still lively, senior Mr Crevatin can still be found fixing watches at another shop nearby, when he’s not home taking care of his garden. QOpen 08:30 - 12:00, 16:00-19:30. Closed Mon, Sun.

Drogheria Vittorio Toso F-4, Piazza San Giovanni 6,

Palmanova Outlet Village
Strada Provinciale 126, Km1.6 - Joannis-Aiello del Friuli, tel. +39 0432 837 810, fax +39 0432 837 811, [email protected], www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Situated between Venice, Trieste and Udine, the Palmanova Outlet Village not only attracts shoppers from across Friuli Venezia Giulia and elsewhere in northern Italy, but also from the neighbouring countries of Austria, Slovenia and Croatia, as well as from the millions of tourists who visit the region each year. More than 90 name-brand stores offer shoppers discounts of between 30-70% on regular retail prices, and even higher discounts during special sales periods. What’s more, those from outside the EU can easily take advantage of tax free shopping, adding even further savings to their purchases. Built to resemble the narrow winding streets of Venice and lined with colourful Venetian-style façades, tourists should spend one day visiting the original Most Serene Republic for its sights, but then come to Palmanova to do their shopping, as the many advantages include free parking, more elbow room, better service and much lower prices. The outlet village is also especially family friendly, with lots of activities for children such as a full playground and tours on a mini-train, while other conveniences for families include free stroller rentals and a nursery. During the spring and summer months concerts, performances and other open-air events also take place in the main square, and there is always a wide selection of restaurants, cafés and bars to choose from. For more information about Palmanova Outlet Village you can visit the official website, or stop by the friendly Info Point when you arrive. Located just off the motorway near the star-shaped medieval fortress town of the same name, the shopping centre is open seven days a week and the route is well-marked. During the high season, a free shuttle also operates between the resort town of Grado. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

Rolli Poniz G-4, Corso Umberto Saba 31, tel. +39 040 368 901, www.rolliponiz.it. Just around the corner from the atmospheric Mercato shopping centre, at the convergence of two of the city’s main streets, sits Rolli Poniz, a jewellery and watch shop that carries some of the world’s best brands of timepieces. The kindly proprietors also create their own original jewellery if you’re in the market for a unique gift, and also offer repair, refurbishment and quick battery changes if you find yourself in need of such service whilst in Trieste. If you have a Citizen watch, they are the official service centre for the FVG region. Q Open 08:30-12:30, 15:30-19:30 Tues-Sat. Closed Sun-Mon.

Newsagents
Edicola Piazza Goldoni F-4, Piazza Goldoni 9. If you find
yourself without a ticket for the local buses or without enough mobile credit to make a phone call, hop over to this newsagents stand on bustling Piazza Goldini (just in front of the Croatian consulate). They also stock a selection of foreign newspapers and magazines, batteries and other odds and ends.

Vintage & Second Hand
Katastrofa D-4, Via Diaz 4, tel. +39 338 227 2351, [email protected]. We’ve seen a lot of vintage shops, second hand stores, art galleries, antique markets and furniture workshops all around the world, but we’ve never seen anything quite like Katastrofa, whose passionate owners combine elements of all of the above into one unique venue that is definitely worth popping into for a look even if you’re not in the market for an original Bauhaus wardrobe, a pair of designer Italian high heels from the 1950s, an original Polaroid camera, a 19th-century French biscuit tin or any of the other incredible items that happen to currently be on display here. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00-20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. trieste.inyourpocket.com

Trieste In Your Pocket

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Guided tours. Discovered secrets. Take a walk around the estate of the stud farm in the company of a friendly guide, who will lead you to the world of Lipizzaners. You will discover everything you ever wanted to know about Lipizzaner horses and Lipica in the museum Lipikum. Every day! Performance and training of Classical Riding School. Astonishing. The Classical Riding School is the pride and succes of the Lipica Stud Farm. Select stallions will delight you with their elegant walk, turns and other surprising elements. Take a look at the training of the Classical Riding School, every morning except Monday. Carriage ride. Unforgettable. Enjoy in a unique experiance. Take a tour of the estate of the Lipica Stud Farm with a carriage and enjoy beautiful moments. An experiance you are sure not to forget. Excellent Mediterranean cuisine The restaurant will entice you with the tempting scent of home-made Karst culinary delights which go well with superior wine. Apart from the À la carte menu, the restaurant also boasts an excellent offer of daily menus.
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