What should I wear dressing for occasions.pdf

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CHIC

SIMPLE

Dressing for Occasions

JEFF STONE O JOHNSON GROSS [PHOTOGRAPHS BY LINDA GILLAN. GRIFFIN

KIM

TEXT

BY

R

A

S

H A

W

FPT

U.S.A. $30.00

CANADA $42.00

J

THE RUSH OF EXCITEMENT THE INVITATION BRINGS, THEN THE ANX-

FIRST

Bells

IOUS question,

"What should

I

wear?" and the usual answer,

sion but helping

More than

you find the

is

appropriate for whatever occa-

crucial outfit in your

a guide to the myriad events that

own

a shin)

i

leathei

I;

closet.



life,

this

olor (gold oi

a volume that helps you understand

To accomplish

this,

Chic Simplebegins by asking you to assess your

and budget and then shows you how

but affordable basic wardrobe that

any event

wardrobe and mas-

to build a

hail

ornaments

—a wedding, a charity

will

• sin. ill. hl.u k.

bodv

make you look and

J

1-

feel great at

the opera or bal-

The book

is

life,

elements of

spring,

Chapters three to

summer, autumn, and winter and review

may

tions each season

with

style.

approaching maternity shows you how

all

take you through

—from



to build a



how



what

to

make

i

silks.

winter;

to visiting a spa or taking a cruise.

new wardrobe out of what's



ing night at the Philharmonic, •

when

At the back

(or whether) is

it's all

homecoming

right to

in Florida,

c

ap

pel loi inane e noil sweater

J

roomy,

at college,

wear black or white

and more

to a

wedding

a savvy regional guide to dressing for occasions in every part

c

opper,

bril-

magentas, n

more

how

to read formal invitations

hints about dressing for your

body

type;

directory of stores.

HE

m

"The more you know, the

less

you need.'

and how

and a source

goli

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sleeveless swealei

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soli

spiked goll shoes

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athletic

suppot

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Jewell

summei

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<

las-

interesting shapes (ban

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basic

diamond

summer)

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or pearl sluds or

extras (dress

simplest clothes)

s

aid

loe kei

plashe ban '<" Wet things

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sllll Is

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shorts

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streu h-wrap

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towels

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s

clip-ons. necklace, bracelet,

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in

ve-si

GYM

dazzling colors and metallics,

I,

corduro)

cap

hiMii ions textures (velvet in

and strapp)



lull-cut

trousers -I silk

and pins

of the United States; a guide on to respond;

isi

(velvets,

winter, patent in

an open-

otton argyle soc ks

J kmi

on a summer East Coast weekend

what to wear on a winter speaking engagement

I

J

Evening-shoe extras

sit

hosiery;

textures (beads,

interesting prints (animal)

already in your closet

nude

lulls

s

in

supremel) feminine

Activewear Wardrobe (.oi

a

to disguise



is

c

liant blues,

i

isi

ves

(

lasp;

en a silk llowei al the

i

Chapter eight

—clever ways

the most of your looks

bow

-oil

prints (animal prints are

to bring

lasp,

c

hiffon); luxurious col-

<

worn

shimmer) sheen optional

organza, satin, shantung,

year-round versatile wardrobe that can go to any event a

\

c

J

at

dress) lain

court appearances to

about mixing pattern and texture

how

in

tilt-

luxur)

in

pearls, sequins, velvet imm

the wardrobe addi-

your flaws and accent your best features. In addition, you'll learn: • all

shimmei

lo COVei

a cha-

-J

ors (silver, gold,

make

to

six

require. Chapter seven presents easy guidelines

cards for 27 key occasions

flash

si

pm

sheet black or

bright color;

wardrobe workshop about the •

six essential

wi

up an evening bag with

Evening

summer; dress up

toi

s

multiples; cufl bracelets; a velvet

J

decorative pin J

a quick



will limit its

it

minaudiere; velvel

season by season.

is

or satin

fabrics oi textures; jeweled

divided into eight chapters. Chapter one asks you to define

your personal needs; chapter two

gem-

till

rystals,

loll" necklaces; necklaces.

s

vening purse r\uas

dicss

c

bracelets, or rings

silk

decorative patterns at

an easy-to-use guide, whether you're on the West Coast, East Coast,

or in between, to dressing for

ic

a bar mitzvah, a board

meeting, a dinner date, a Saturday brunch, or a night let. It's

fabi

in. ilic

versatility

• interesting oi

ball, a funeral,

coloi

jet,

simple necklace- with

a

basil iii

avoid hardware, as

assemble a flexible

to

;

bl.u k pearls; large colorful plastic

hows, flowers, rhinestones;

J Evening purse

adding the essential modification for each season.

ter the trick to

type, lifestyle,

how

oi sihei

stones; black

silvet

metal (gold chain

a

shimmery, luxurious is

gold

faux gems)

lull,

J Evening

make up modern

belt;

"I

HAVE NOTHING TO WEAR." CHIC SIMPLE TAKES CARE OF BOTH OF THESE universal worries, not only showing what

rhinestone; bold!) shaped



rhinestone or decorative



suit

_l

water

J

wi istbands

bandages

I

I

WIS

••A new

_l

racquet

Ll

short-sleeved polo shin

dress doesn't get von anywhere;

you're living in the dress,

life

the sort of

shorts

visor _l

and

you had

life

lived before,

and

what you will do in it later. ^^ DIANA VREELAND, D.V.

white athletic socks

dimmer

The minimum balm

slightly

balm

or the

Minimal

J

lip

time,

at evening events,

more makeup than

wear

and emphasize either the eyes



lips

both would be

overkill.

Evening makeup basic

More lip

J

balm

loose

powder

up, unless

J foundation

lip

(if

necessary)

balm

J

day,

light scent

mascai

more heady or

a

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(it

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definition

til

necessai

5

1

on your

ev ilali/ing

your eves

eye shadow

with a c

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eyelids.

enough lighting

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mask. Don't emphasize you're tired. Use:

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color is

usually

to

shadow

J emergency contacts

to

Ll

eyedrops

even out skin tone on eyelids

J J

foot

a light, neutral eve

you go

to

lines

if

emphasizing

comb,

dryer,

sham-

poo, conditioner

one of those

classes

required not

is

J

identification bracelet

repellent

-I insect -I lip

balm

medical information

on

(allergies,

medications, blood type)

moleskin for

_l

mouthwash

LI

sheer

_l

physician's

_i

water-resistant mast ara _l

prescription medications

Beach or Pool

J

sewing

J

Ll

shaving supplies

lip

is

usually water-

color

waterproof mast ara

balm

name, address, and

kit

skin lotion

gloss, if you

Thai's

blisters

telephone number

want

il.

Skin usuallv loses

its

summet

color,

Ll

sleeping mask

_J

soap

(in

soap box)

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Swiss

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Q

thermometer

moisturizer, or switt h to a moistur-

J

throat lozenges

izing foundation. Stronger lip col-

J

tissues

J

tooth care: blush, toothpaste,

so adapt your foundation, skin also drier in winter.

ors look

good

Use

in winter.

a

ric

is

army knife

dental

necessary, but light

to avoid

powder

hair care:

J

LI lip

a timed moisturize] or foundation

lip liner

tin-

place

contact lens cleaners

diarrhea medication

fol

pads soaked with (old chamomile

eyeliner

lip

down and

Lie

LI

proof and long-lasting

J

try to revive vourscll

shower

5

blush

Because

a

one

Tired Days or Bad Face

First

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brow

exotic

Days

balm

concealer

you wear a

each day, use

cologne

LI

open up your eyes

bare skin and

during the

necessary)

Makeup lip

il

LI

block glow

gel blush, which works well

evening

color

definition

night;

at

cold remedies

deodorant

where everyone

will feel dressier with

soft liner

J foudalion

_1

you

on

-I

cotton balls/cotton sticks

lous while doing so. use:

it

cleanser

_l

toes)

you don't wear

big baggies for spillables

LI

only to work out but to look fabu-

it

brow

J

II

blush

sheer

Full

powder

you a

red nail polish (lingers and

_l if

J LI

Exercise Class

clashes with your

Evening fragrance

J foundation or concealer loose

LI

makeup

Five-minute

it

outfit

definition

to give

— for quick dress-

Evening makeup extra

mascara

brow

red lipstick

enough blush

Band-Aids

heal tin. just-ran-around-thc-

just

J mascara J

J loose powder

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J

in day-

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Makeup

lip

antiseptic lotion

LI aspirin

the

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it

tennis shoes

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Basic Travel Kit _l

adapter

kit

lloss.

dentures, case,

cleaner

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tweezers, nail clippers

44 Appearance is a powerful thing. I know sometimes people cant remember a word you ve said, but can exactly

tell

you

what you were wearing. ANN RICHARDS

^

SIMPLE

WHAT SHOULD WEAR? I

Dressing for Occasions

Alfred A.

Knopf

New

York 1999

THIS

IS

A BORZOI BOOK

PUBLISHED BY ALFRED A. KNOPF. Copyright

a partnership of

©

1998 by Chic Simple,

A Stonework. All

INC.

Ltd

,

and Kim Johnson Gross.

rights reserved

Inc.

under

International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions

Published

in

the United States by Alfred

and simultaneously

in

A

Knopf. Inc

Canada by Random House

Distributed by

Random House.

of

Inc.,

.

Canada

New

New York. Limited. Toronto

York.

www randomhouse.com

JOHNSON GROSS JEFF STONE WRITTEN BY LINDA GILLAN GRIFFIN DESIGN BY VALERIE TRUCCHIA

KIM

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID BASHAW STYLING BY HOPE GREENBERG ICON ILLUSTRATIONS BY AMY JESSICA NEEDLE Congress Catalogmg-in-Publication Data Gross, Kim Johnson dressing lor occasions [by Kim Johnson Gross and by Unda Gillan Gntfin photographs by David Bashaw]

Library ol

What should wear 7 I

text

I

Jeff

Stone

,

p

cm — (Chic

simple)

Includes index

ISBN 0-375-40245-1 1

Clothing and dress

2 Fashion 3 Etiquette

I

Stone.

Jeff.

1953-

II

Gnttm. Linda

TT507G73 1998 646'

34-dc21

98-37902 CIP

Printed Butler

and bound

& Tanner

Ltd,

Third printing,

in

Great

Britain

by

Frame and London

March 1999

III

Title

IV Series

To Jane, who and

To my

to Dr.

sisters,

Michael Sacks, whose

Susan and Jill

late-in-life

—one knows how For

A

special thanks to

to

is

discoveries have

make

the occasion

Engel,

dress

added a poignancy

a great parry

my mom, Cora

I

for,

to his stylish apparel

and the other knows the

who makes

is

a time of laughter, Jeff

right thing to

J. S.

style.

KJ.G.

every day an occasion. L.G.G.

our number one girlfriend, Noriko Maeda, whose generosity and unerring

Time spent with Noriko

— no matter the occasion. wear —each with great

& Kim

stylish

good food, and

eye have been a constant education and delight.

beautiful clothes.

66

The more you know,

the less you need. 55

AUSTRALIAN ABORIGINAL SAYING

CHIC

SIMPLE

CHIC SIMPLE but sensibly.

It's

for

those

who

is

living well

believe that quality of

comes not from accumulating things to the essentials.

a primer for

but from paring

Chic Simple enables readers to

value and style into their

lives with

economy and

sii

life

down bi

Chapter One

page 10



Chapter Tiro

page 20



Chapter Three

CHOICES, CHOICES, CHOICES

WARDROBE WORKSHOP

Lots of clothes and nothing to wear?

Your clothes

Then something

and your sense of

is

wrong.

First,

you

make

both your moods

reflect

style.

How do

sure what they are saying

yon

what

need to find what works for you; then examine your lifestyle to judge what's

you intend? By understanding the

appropriate for the cyclical occasions

elements of

throughout the

plicity,

year.

style,

the

is

power of

six

sim-

and the importance of quality



page 40

SPRING A

season that begins wet and cold

and

vet

ends with summer's steamy

promise, these months are a constant challenge of climate fluctuations.

It's

also the time of weddings, graduations,

and

religious holidays.

basics.

CONTENTS Chapter Four



page 76

Chapter Five

SUMMER It's is

simple:

It's

hot,

terrific at ties,

garden

parties,

Is

and

pool par-

this

book

After the white cotton T-shirt

the choices start to

become more



page 14S

a book about learning to dress for

This

is

life.

That means dressing appropriately both

and the

day ends too soon. But the nights are

place in the course of a year. Dressing for the

it's

museum openings

lies to just

tut

changing seasons and the planned and unplanned occasions that take



time of year to dress?

to tailgate par-

crunching through leaves

the country. Transitional temperac-s

call for

the art of layering.

ALL YEAR LONG

WINTER Yes

to

in

challenging.

Chapter Six

this the best

Great occasions, from back-to-school

barbecues, and dances under the

stars.

page 104

AUTUMN

resit

and the challenge

to look fresh, pulled together,



cold, the sky

for is

gray,

long, with balls, charity events,

and

seasons

holiday glitter and glamour.

is

the

about learning

to use the basics in a

also

Chic Simple wardrobe and then adding the

a time of renewal, a time for taking

pieces that are appropriate to the time of year;

care of yourself.

it's

It's

also

about helping you continue to devel-

op your sense of

style

and add

versatility to

your wardrobe. Most important of all, it's about allowing yourself to look and feel great.

Chapter Seven



page 176

WEAR WHAT, WHERE? Flash cards for 27 different types of occasions, quick once-overs that represent basic ideas for you to use as a

rapid reference.

111

1

Resources



page 20

(faQ^ W HERE CAN

MATION ON

DRESSING FOR YOUR BODY Dressing

is

the art of camouflage

and

how

the

misdirection. Learn

eye go where you want

make

to

to,

it

and

sis

Wardrobe covers

choose

find out

where

you're looking

(Jjjjl It's

go

to

\

\\

^^tf^^V^^^

Fi 1

INFOR-

^RDROBE?

in

depth the ideas and

suggestions for creating and maintaining a

wardrobe

for today.

suit. .',;

what

to get

JL-

Why another book on

deliberately simple

— otherwise we

feel kind of foolish.

<

.

I

You look

clothes? Because everyone kept asking for

constant inquiries, through the mail and

text,

However,

much more

We

it.

receive

frequently via e-mail, that

at the

each begin "What Should photos and read the ing involved.

! :v.".'" :":..':::. r.;:..l ..

for.

USE THIS BOOK

would

[LDING

|

solve the quintessential cri-

of picking the right bathing

And

151

MM) MORE

Jl

So glad you asked. Chic Simple: Women's

the best styles to flatter your body type,

1

1

1

Wear...?"

As we answered more and more

of the

no download-

to aid

in

quick

ref-

erence, we've developed a few icons to flag specific information. Listed

same

questions,

we

was an obvious need

realized there

address the major and minor occasions that happen

all

for a title that

through the year. As

below

with

all

would

of our Chic Simple titles, the ideas are suggestions

— starting points for

are the ideas behind the icons.

you to begin your own dialogue

what

Body.

ilizations,

be exceptions to the n

r .

i

.w

in life, it's

Kim &

Jeff

Simple Truths. answensmoi

there

nay not care-

as with everything else

feels comfortable to you that's important.

outfitisllattenngtoacertainBODYtypebutper-

UJ haps not to others. As v will

— because,

(foq)

read with one eye cocked toward the mirror

FAQ. Who? What'' Why" When'' Here are the answers tc frequently asked questions (acronym courte:

,

Versatility. ('Is

Color. Adding brights, pastels, earthen hues, and every

^]\

How

To.

da-

.-icon

incept hits thegrtttyaspha

shade in between can bring breadth to your wardrobe, whether you're dressing up or down. Profile. "Through

@

J

Dress Codes.vVithdress-downFndaybeoominga week-long phenomenon, about appropriateness

DRESS CODES are now more

Life's not

about dictation, but

one can usea little guidance in this depaii

i

companies, and even products have stood out as imp. milestones

-

Simple Solutions. i

:

iseasy i

arcii a time to plant

and a time to uproot

chapter one A / /

_a_

the age of two,

t

I^L

Choices. Choices we know what

it

shoes and

a

up: patenl leathei

^^ ^k

winter; white organdy in oui

»

means

to dress

in dn summer. Throughout v<

Ivi

I

teens we experiment, wearing oui

mi

ta

morphosis and rebellion on the outside. In

our twenties, we know how

to dress for basic day-to-day

occasions, but special ones with dress codes can render us clueless:

wedding? ter?

What Is

To add

is

appropriate for a formal morning

urban chic a

style

or a

Demi Moore

to the confusion, fashion etiquette

charac-

seems

to

be a moving target

li

,

Choices

was not long ago that wearing

black or white to a wedding was frowned upon. Today

common,

yet

the country.

still

it's

considered shocking in some parts of

But where?

When

should head coverings

be worn, and what about bare arms and legs? Is it proper to wear beading before sundown, and must we wear black to funerals? These are into

while exploring

wardrobe

how

some to

we delve and maintain a

of the subjects

build

that allows us, in the blink of a closet light, to

dress for any special occasion with confidence

and

style.

June a time to

kill

and a time to heal

Octobei

66What Are You Wearing?}}

:

SIMPLE SUIT. Simple lines in a neutral color lend themselves to multiple style interpretations

by the addition of accessories or remixing the jacket or pants with other wardrobe favorites.

Wardrobe You

have

nothing

built a

lots

to

of clothes but think you have

wear?

Then chances

wardrobe that

are you haven't

suits you.

Consider

luxury that you can't afford to be without.

it

It's

about having the minimal amount of clothes get you through the

maximum number

time of the year, in great

style.

It

a

to

of occasions at any

means

less stress

and

avoiding the costly wardrobe mistakes that usually ensue

when you run

frantically to the mall to deal with last-

minute fashion emergencies.

It's

about using the

real

knowing you will always look your best, as it is designed to work for you your lifestyle, your personal style, your body, and your budget. It's an ongoing process, and with care and practice, it's a process you will master. Over time, you can develop a wardrobe that gives you the luxury of spending more time enjoying life, and less time worrying about your clothes. estate in



your closet

wisely.

Building a wardrobe

is

SHOP YOUR CLOSET. While classics remain i-mt,

our weight

may not. The better the garmethe chance is

i

enough fabric at the

seams to be

let

out.

Check with your tailor. 12

Chic Simple

M BUILD wardrobe

A WARDROBE.

Creating a

understanding your

is

lifestyle

needs and your aesthetic preferences, discovering what you have and what you are missing, and then

COMFORT CLOTHES. We each have personal favorites

—clothes we

have discovered in

our adult

reach

life

You'll

need some

some

boxes, a full-length

some

honesty.

a pad and pen,

tools:

It's

the blanks.

filling in

and

mirror, time,

a three-step process:

early

that

we

for repeatedly.

SURVEY & ASSESS.

What are your life

needs? Are you working

the city or out of

in

These are the bones of

your house, going to school or raising a

a wardrobe and our

personal

style.

family, or

all

the above 9

preferences? Do you

What are your

style

like bright

colors or

earth tones, soft or shiny, old or

new? Do

you have

RECYCLE. try

them

on.

DEJUNK &

the basics 9

all

Pull

out

your clothes and

all

Determine what no longer

fits

your body, your needs, or your taste.

Donate these items

to charity, friends, a

BLACK? group,

theater

a

or

The height of

local

classic elegance,

RENEW & REINVEST.

it's

thrift

shop.

What's

left 9

an investment

that

Presumably clothes you enjoy wearing.

you can

count on

to

let

You've discovered a great beaded top, yet

you and your accessories shine.

the pants no longer

fit.

Terrific

dress, but

Maybe you have

the shoes are wrong.

five

ballgowns, but nothing to wear to your

when your

niece's christening. This

is

wardrobe

the gaps with

list

starts.

Fill

clothes that can be worn Invest

in

fine fabrics,

neutral colors.

Repeat life

this

Buy

in

in

multiple ways.

simple shapes, and

less, but

buy

better.

process each season. As your

evolves,

so

may your wardrobe.

Should

I

\Ateai

summer

spring

WEDDING

SHOWER After a winter

wearing dark layers of clothing,

come spring we welcome color and feminine dressing.

A simple

sheath

lovely for

is

special daytime

POOL PARTY

occasions, from

A cover-up is perhaps

wedding showers

even more important to graduation.

than the bathing

suit

underneath when partying or vogueing

around the pool.

OCCASIONS

SPECIAL Dress suit or pants? Silk knits or sequins? You won't

you need list

until

you

sit

down

know what

with your calendar each season and

the special occasions you anticipate. As seductive as a long

beaded dress may

be,

it's

unnecessary

if

your

social highlight

is

Christmas caroling or an early afternoon wedding.

Next consider your

lifestyle

needs.

with friends or clients after work?

Do you

How

entertain,

Buffet dinners, grilling

down haps

affairs? (Black-tie

a reaction to

Then

there

is

on the

dinners

more

at

patio, or

home

more formal

sit-

are popular again, per-

casual dress codes in general.)

the question of etiquette.

Our

desire to dress

appropriately shows our respect for others. Take into account

frequently go out

do you

all?

if at

the season and the time of day propriate- fabrics

and

styles. Is



this will

help determine ap-

the event religious? You should

autumn

r TOWN HALL MEETING Look pulled

together.

Wear tailored clothes with If

good accessories

you want to stand

out, is

wear color. Red

the

most attention-

getting.

GALA A beaded gown is drop-dead evening wear.

The halter

shows off shoulders,

and

the cowl neck

enhances the bustline.

LONG

R probably wear some sort of cover-up within the sanctuary. bacchanal?

Then something more

And where

are you? Your understanding of the local culture

regional or peoplewise like a tourist

Once your solidate.

may be

—can determine whether you

or the belle of the list

revealing

of occasions

You won't need

is

A

desired.

will

look

different outfits for each occasion.

A

also

be

an after-work cocktail

part),

you may need

to

add some

feminine touches, such as a beaded top and a pair of strappy sandals.

to con-

wedding may

perfect for Easter Sunday. But in order to take a dark business suit to

ball.

complete, you can begin

pastel suit just right for a cousin's spring

Your

list

will

occasion clothes year long

provide an outline for a wardrobe of special-

—some

specific to a season, others helpful all

— that you can depend on and enjoy for years to come.

(\f

SHOP

YOUR

Before you buy that

new

recycling Viola,

suit

pads you're

and salvage the pants.

one

less item to buy,

more basic taken care let's

SUIT

pair of

navy slacks, check the navy with the ugiy shoulder

BATHING

CLOSET.

of.

one

Now

explore the rest of your closet.

What

else awaits discovery?

Your year-round closet •

Survey

&

Assess

-_.

Dejunk

&

Recycle

1

tj



Renew & Reinvest

is

made

up of wardrobe basics. These are

shopping your closet

the foundation on which you build

your it's

own

personal look

spring

or

winter.

Matching

sweater sets. Good white shirts

and black pants. A

ALL YEAR LONG

—whether

dress, and a skirt,

blazer, a knit

all in

seasonless

fabrics with quality accessories.

BASIC ACCESSORIES

JEANS

J bag

glasses

J

gloves

belt

scarf

hair gear

J shoes

J buttons

hat

J socks

J earrings Chic Simple

ring

J bracelet

cuff links

16

J

J necklace

J stockings

G

_J

pin

watch

SHOES

\ll

ST

\

IfaQ] \\

ALWAYS BAS1

£ £ Everything changes in life.^}

BASK

UIDROBE

I)

Bl

ON

BLACK? Certainly not.

Some

people

feel

funereal in black. Alternatives are

DONATELLA VERSACE

other neutral colors including

navy blue,

gray,

taupe, beige,

and perhaps even white or off-white if

you

live in

a

tropical climate.

TWINSET

ACCESSORIES

b

\

DRESS :Q':

You have more than you

think,

but something

is

always missing.

SEASONLESS OCCASIONS birthdays... business dinners...

movie Saturday

dates...

brunch...

bar

saries...

weddings... aways...

showers...

mitzvahs...

weekend

dinner

JEWELRY

anniver-

for

gettwo...

1

SHOES .'.•»

T

Self-Truths Dressing up

is

of our personality. Finding a

style that suits

We

have

all

to dress

siren.

Monroe

Marilyn

her part. So do the celluloid char-

Annie Hall and

acters

is

witnessed Courtney Love's trans-

formation from grunge to

knew how

us

and experimenta-

a process that takes confidence tion.

an individuality that

Ally McBeal.

isn't

They

project

dictated hy fashion's fickle

You may feel comfortable in the classics (black, white, and pearls) or prefer dressing with attitude (black leather and stilettos). Chances are you may like a little of both. Get to know yourself and trends.

your

then go with

style,

il

rather than fighting

it.

WHAT LOOKS GOOD LOOK YOUR BEST.

,.J

Part of determining youi style

the great and not-so-great parts of your body.

selves better

no longer

women

over

suit

your age or body.

forty think

(It

in,

dresses with hemlines that

in

CI

fall

the neck area.

hips. Learning to

18

80 percent

all

will

of

in

a

angles without suckto playing

them

and pants

up.

It

to mid-calf,

that taper at the ankles, or

A

nice smile

and good pos-

can draw attention away from a pear-shaped body, as

accessories

ture

find that the

your dainty wrists and narrow ankles, Accent them with shirts

that feature beautiful cuff links

ture

front,

they look younger than they do.) Or look

Recognize your best features and commit

may be

may

believed that

is

three-way mirror with brutal honesty, Examine ing

identifying

Sometimes we see our-

back, and sideways wearing a variety of clothes. You styles

is

a photograph. Have a friend photograph you

in

i

the quickest way to reveal aspects

A bias-cut full

manipulate accessories,

skirt in

bold

will

motion disguises

color, pattern, line,

and

help you look your best while you define your personal

full

tex-

style.

I

• • This dress exacerbates the genetic betrayal

that

is

my legacy.

^

JANEANE GAROFALO in

Romy and

Michele's

High School Reunion

O

ME?

N

HEAR ME Few women recognize the

power of a voice.

Kathleen Turner's

is

seductive. Katie

Couric's

trusting.

is

Jackie O's whisper

SEE ME

invited

men to listen a little closer. You may

Want to stand out or

look dazzling but

be a trend? Clothes

sound shrill.

communicate.

If

you don't

you

like

what

hear, skip the

dress and to

Listen

on tape.

to yourself

talk

a voice coach.

new

Set a trend or

"t

Do you

want to dress the part of the trophy wife (a in

common aspiration New York, Los

Angeles, and Texas), or not upstage your

husband (more acteristicofthe rest of the country)?

Your choice may

depend more on where you

live

than

on who you are.

She knew someday her

life

work.

as she got back

chapter two

II

erhaps the most important reason we wish to dress properly for every occasion is that





our clothing affects and reflects our own moods. Consciously or subconsciously, we dress for happiness or sadness, celebration or mourn

ardrobe workshop

standing the basics. feel

nice

colors, cuts,

next

to

And the

skin?

and patterns make us

a day look into night? If

Which textures How do certain feel? Can we finesse

ourselves.

God

oes she whisper in our ears

is

in the details,

when

it

conn

what

she would find the exact right outfit that would

Maybe

not her whole

in bed,

but at least the parts she CARRIE FISHER,

life,

make

she thought,

had

to dress for.

Postcards from the Edge

ii Does This

Go with This? 59





££

my

I

want

clothes

loose

enough to Pattern piques interest, tweaks the funny bone,

a statement. Bold geometries can jazz things up. print is slightly racy,

while flowers are feminine

patterned

outfit that is

which may

limit

choose to wear

Fin

and some-

of

svelte or 10

lady...

becomes

lothing

the saint

or

ate a

it.

It

can render a garment sexy

inappropriate

in

an

slightly off

office or

mood: high-heeled and strappy

a serious setting

is

seductive, sturdy

ii

,i.n t\

worn.

And

the shoulder

sensible.

helps

tin

depending on whether foi

heavier.

Even a top cut

as the typ< a

fashion plate,

pounds

unless worn under a jacket. The cut of a shoe can also cre-

and low is

mportanl

a garment can reveal or conceal, make us look

or businesslike.

a

becomes more memorable

the times you

The cut

A leopard

what demure. Mixed with your basics, patterns add

An

prove

and makes

in

mem when

i

tlf

am

Birthday" toJF

I

sh«

...but tight

to

enough show 'em

Fm Color can scream or whisper.

cognoscente, the glorious or

marks the

and the vixen.

It

make appear washed out.

mournful, But too start

villain

It

it

much

color

will

tourist

and the

can help skin look

It

slims,

it's

gay,

it's

be confusing unless you

by building your wardrobe around neutral colors.

a

woman.

^

MAE WEST

Texture can differentiate day clothes (corduroy) from night (beaded), work (wool flannel) from party (pique) from winter (velvet).

and

It

visual allure, especially

nubby wool with the sheen

(satin),

summer

can give clothing a richness

when you mix

of satin.

textures feel luxurious on the skin.

opposites: a

The best

part:

Some

V

5 It

can render something just right for an occasion or

all

only in the winter, or

wrong (and can also dictate price). Think about it: You go out on New Year's Eve in a T-shirt albeit a sequined T-shirt. You might wear pants to a christening, but in a fine-

women

wool with a matching jacket. Certain fabrics have

created



quality

traditionally

been worn only

for day, or only for night, or

\\ ll\l

SA\ hi

I

1)111

UiKH

-M

summer,

shantung,

-

?

-ilk

taffeta,

and

chiffon,

organza are "in dressiest choices In

cold-weather

months, the choice

widens

\\ iili

velvets,

matelasse, brocade, gazar.

and

-ilk satin

ami charmeuse. a- wrll a- a w ide

range

ol

blends

and synthetics such as metallic

ami Lame.

I

I

.urea

he more

shine, the dressier

the Fabric.

just in

the summer. But

now

stvlish

and you mav see a splash of shantung in the winter. New

are bending the rules,

velvet in the

summer

or

silk

ways of weaving, treating, and blending fibers have also

fort

in

more

seasonless fabrics, which adds to our

increasingly

climate-controlled

com-

environments.

ORGANIZE YOUR CLOSET. One of the secrets to stressless dressing

right

clothes

in

is

knowing

your closet

for

that

you have the

the event at hand.

Another is being able to find them. A closet should be a

sanctuary, not an encounter session.

What you

don't

see you probably won't wear. Arrange garments designated categories;

style, color,

sorting devices. Store

shoes

in

in

and occasion are all

labeled

boxes

for fast

retrieval.

and

flat.

Pay Store

attention to fabrics

away off-season

—keep

items.

Get

knits folded

rid

of plastic

bags; they protect against dust and moths, but their

chemicals can

damage

silk,

linen,

and white

fabrics.

6Details

\r^\

w

—whether on a tank

shoe, or

lining of

a coat

top,

—can

elevate the item from ordinary

to extraordinary, to

something Couturiers

ti

in it.

Frangois Lesage to embellish

that

says high

style or

is

meant for

garments with exquisite beading

and embroidery.

special occasions. Satin edging

His staff typically

hand-sews almost

7 million

beads for runway

on a ribbed cotton

top,

suede

designs

in

the

month before the collections.

edging on the pockets of

linen

Any

wonder why outureisso chere 9

Boucle,

first

produced 1880s.

is

the

in

a fabric

with a looped or

nubbed surface, the result of using

a curly or looped

pants,

handmade

buttons, or

boucle yarn.

Coco Chanel popularized

shoes with beading or scalloped

it

with her spring suits,

using coor-

dinated braid trim or self-fringe

edges help underscore

made from the fabric,

and deco-

rative buttons.

the stylishness you

to

may want

convey for an important event.

The Simple Wardrobe SIMPLE SOLUTIONS

Imagine having only a few

things to get you through

most wardrobe emergencies.

Clothes that you enjoy wearing. Clothes that can be worn in a variety of ways



to suit the

mood and

the occasion. You

you have a successful wardrobe when an sends you into a "I

don't

know what

REMIX ing

how

tailspin, I'll

invitation

know

no longer

but allows you to say with confidence, wear, but

I

know

it's

in

my

closet"

Getting the most from your clothes means learnto successfully

mix

a few key pieces for a variety ol

occasions. Start building your wardrobe color. Black

is

easiest to dress

around

a neutral

up and down or mix

other colors and patterns. Besides being slimming, gant and can be worn anywhere

it's

with ele-

— including most weddings.

A good you

black suit or black dress with matching jacket gives

foundation on which

a

ple, pieces (

to build.

skin.

Add

color

a

set

is

sim-

looks great with a black

suit jacket

.1

And

the cut

can be easily worn with other clothes in your

— red sweater Mix attitude — black

loset.

When

can dress up white

change of shoes or jewelry can transform a look dramatically. Seasonless fabrics, like lightweight wool crepes and silk knits, can be wardrobe solutions most of the jeans.

year.

tures

Don't (

,111

.1

won

\

aboul fabrics not matching. Varying tex-

.aid rich visual interest, especially

sheen of the garments matter wc.11

how much

youi

is

contrasting.

01 iginal

these clothes, the

mote

And

investment nl

,1

if

the weight or

the bonus:

is,

the

No

more you

bargain they become.

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS J Black dress

28

J Black

suit with pants

J White

shirt

and

skirt

J Peau de soie evening pumps

J Sweater set

J Sheer black or nude stockings

J Dressy top

J Festive

J Evening skirt or pants

flats or

mules

J Good black leather day bag

J Pearl necklace

J Long evening dress

J Black leather pumps

J Diamond or pearl earrings

J Large decorative scarf

J Small fabric evening bag

J Dress watch

Chic Simple

or evening

wrap

BUY A BLACK SUIT THAT'S RIGHT FOR YOU. A should consist of jacket with

skirt

and pants.

casual world, so pants are appropriate

Before purchasing

it

for

ask yourself, Where

charity events, cocktail circuit,

above? The more shapely the

work

(After

all,

basic black suit

we

live in

many dress-up

will

I

more

occasions.)

Consider choosing one with a iacket

blouse. What's the weather like?

versatile fabric,

easy

of the

Special details

like

more dressy

all

yet less versatile the

Do

I

suited to extreme weather conditions?

be wearing this? Dressy

to dinner, travel, funeral,

cut, the

a

suit.

make them

to

that

can also be worn without a

need a year-round Wool crepe

is

fabric, or

one

probably the most

dress up or down, and wears well most of the year.

decorative buttons and trim dress things up but also

less versatile.

You may decide you need more than one

suit.

Enhancements -—^^



art of the

magic

in creating a versatile

a variety of occasions

B»_^^

sories.

scarf,

—I—

An

is

wardrobe that works for

understanding the power of acces-

interesting belt, a necklace of beads, a beautiful

or a dramatic bracelet can transform an

outfit,

making

it

appropriate for varying times of day, seasons, and events. Simply

changing our shoes, bag, and

board meeting and cocktail

lip

color can

mean

the difference between

party.

As modern clothes have acquired mass-produced uniformity, the way

we enhance our uniform

is

also

what distinguishes our personal

style.

— low-heeled pumps; sexy— —pearl necklace; whimsical—leopard-print bag) or season (big hoop earrings— summer; cashmere gloves—winter) you wear something often

Whatever the mood

(practical

stilettos;

classic

,

enough,

becomes your

it



Jackie O's sunglasses,

fjjf

DRESS UP A

SUIT.

TOP: Remove

blouse from under the jacket or

replace the jacket with a sweater set or blouse (sheen, sparkles, beading).

(palazzo pants, evening

pumps,

a sexy cut or luxury fabric

BOTTOM: Change into something loose and flowing

skirt)

with

sheen or a dazzling

buckle, dressy fabric, rhinestones, metal satin or silk

in

stilettos,

links,

color.

BELT:

or animal print.

something strappy, mules

if

Think of Dorothy's ruby Barbara Bush's pearls marks of personal signature.

Decorative

SHOES:

in silver

Black

or gold.

BAG: The

slippers, style.

smaller the dressier, a silky cloth

beading, or fine leather with gold clasp.

finish,

SCARF:

sheer organza, cashmere, with embroidery, beading,

Dramatic earrings or necklace, a bold Pearls or gold are classic, dressy.

COLOR:

Gold,

cuff,

luxurious alligator, jeweled,

Large or small wrap color, pattern

a decorative

diamonds and gemstones are silver,

white,

and red are

in silk,

JEWELRY:

pin, or

a pendant.

dressiest, silver least

dazzling; black

Wha

is

basic.

The Little Black Dress simply the one wardrobe item that makes every

is

woman

Tt

—and look great—

feel great

worn

any time of year.

to

wear

to

funerals,

It

has been a classic choice for

and now, with relaxed dress codes,

often

is

its

success:

The

at



your college reunion or when meeting

your husband's new boss.

fact that dresses are so

real reason for

is the'

only truly basic color,

wardrobe (when worked with accessories) ever since Coco Chanel created it in the 1920s. Von can count it

weddings. Despite the

once formal and informal, it puts the focus on the face, slims the body, and conceals imperfect tailoring. Under a jacket it can appear suitlike, yet it's sew on its own perfect for day to night and foi the holidays. With a change of accessories, make it Fun or sober, sew or classic, powerful or understated.

In fact, the black dress has qualified as an entire

on

to

easv to wear, black

COCKTAILS

DINNER

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS

SHOP FOR YOUR PERFECT BLACK DRESS. Plan your mission knowing

lines

and no sleeves or short sleeves allow you to wear

the dress

your climate, where you want to wear the dress

parties or

First,

(everywhere, of course), and

32

may take more than one

consider which fabric weights are suitable

outing.

for

it

dress with fabric and cut that assure versatility. Simple

how much you can spend.

1

2 months of the year, as well as to cocktail

under a jacket

Beware of necklines that expose too much cleavage,

figure.

and sleeves. The best investment

skirts;

Chic Simple

choose a

they

show

will

limit

too

for

much

leg,

and

overly tight

where the dress can go.

If

in

to the

Queen

of

England

cocktails, of

(at

course). When you find the black dress of your dreams,

make

hemlines that

to

sented

staid occasions.

Length should be a consideration, as well as neckline is

more

doubt, picture yourself wearing the dress to be pre-

sure the

fit

At home,

is

try

perfect

it

and the cut

on with

flatters

your

different accessories.

Figure out your classic look, your evening look, your

luncheon

look, and, just in

case, your

somber

look.

The black dress is the ultimate wardrobe

basic.

the face.

makes

It

It

brings focus to limbs, neck,

and

collarbone elements of adornment.

The rest

is

gravy, transformed

by

accessories.

Scarves and jewelry are

the simplest

ways to add color

and

sparkle to the

black dress.

5-

A bag announces the setting, and the

frame of mind of the carrier.

6£That^s quite

It

can be

small

and

or big

and accom-

modating.

flirtatious,

And

it

never quarrels with

a dress

the perfect black dress.

you almost have on.

^

GENE KELLY, An American

in Paris

Shoes are largely responsible for the credit-card debt of the

average woman,

A black dress allows you to wear

your most whimsical or extravagant. But

your choice of shoe will signal the

B

know that

mood of the occasion.

i

U Wha-

Under and Over We may have gotten our wardrobe together, but something is missing. We sense when we walk through a restaurant, or just before we enter a black-tie gala. it

It's

If

about what we are wearing under and over our special clothes.

you don't have them the

right,

first

your

and

last

outfit

won't matter. Your over- and undergarments

It

chase new ones, make sure your undergarments are flattering (check for parity and puckering across the

department and

try

on alternatives

created a variety of fabrics and

li\4

chest).

fits

WEAR UNDER OVER.

If

until

not.

designed

Your

slip is

it

right.

to help

New

showing

slips

in

colors that won't reveal themselves to the outside

they can tuck

in

And

tummies, thighs, waists, and

mention adorning our legs with varying degrees

their best.

— many women have had

be worn as bustiers and

Now

stockings.

If

you have the urge, give the look a

before

as dresses. But

letting

it

loose

at

trial

run with a group of intimate friends

a party where you don't

know everyone.

PANTIES

J Strapless

J Thong

J Those

that push up or pull in

J Tummy control

J Clean

finish (nude)

J High-cut leg

J Decorative

J Thigh slimmer

8:35 a.m.

Begin selection

Too unattractive

to

of

underwear. Laundry

on opaque

and

tights.

Pair one seems

find hole on back of leg.

when returned home with Daniel 8:55 a.m.

which

trill

Return

crisis

means only available underpants are

contemplate, even for work (psychological damage).

Find unsuitably small black lacy pair 8:45 a.m. Start

midriffs, not to

and sheerness.

of shine

BRAS



don't forget

never underestimate the shock value of wearing underwear as outerwear,

the dream. ..or nightmare: Undergarments can be so beautifully constructed that long-line bras might

a wardrobe

world unless by choice Black, white, and nude are safe bets

technology has

our bodies look

may be necessary to have different undergarments for different cuts of cloth-

ing. Build

take the garment to a lingerie

you get

be

impression you make, so pay attention.

Wh CHOOSE UNDERGARMENTS. When you try on your clothes or pur-

line

will

last time.

to tights.

to

—prickly but

hare shrunk

Go back

better than giant

— crotch

is

to living

to

in toe.

three inches above knees. Get second pair on miniskirt on

Put on. Hole transforms into run

ironing basket. Locale last pair of black

twisted into ropelike object speckled with bits of tissue.

HELEN FIELDING,

horror.

room. Triumphantly locate skirl between cushions on sofa.

Pair three has hole only

protrude tellingly from shoe. Co

ironing basket.

Mummy-pant

Throw away. Suddenly remember had Lycra

Go

to

vast white cot ion.

I

ntangle

opaque

and purge of tissue, ^j^j

Bridget Jones's Diary

lights

CHOOSE THE RIGHT COAT. Travel? Look for a coat that you can

wear when dressed up reversible coat or

show

also won't

one

the

in

dirt).

down

or

which

black,

As

(a

with your

suitcase, think lightweight (microfibersl).

Length?

If

your hemline changes as

quickly as your will

lip

color,

A favorite of designers who

a longer length

glorify

cover options worn underneath.

the classics,

camel-hair coats'

Glamour? Go mere,

fur,

velvet,

afraid of colors

them over

for rich textures (cash-

silk,

laid-back prestige

was popularized

suede). Don't be

and patterns



by polo players just

wear

the 1920s,

wore them while

solid colors that don't clash.

resting

between

Sport classic: the camel-hair coat periods.

New classic:

in

who

Soon

women adapted

microfiber shell

the look too.

Simple solution: a long black wool coat.

OUTERWEAR WARDROBE Spring

Summer

J Sweaters

J Swimsuit cover-ups

Blazers

Autumn Polarfleece vest

J Suede or

Sweater

J Lightweight jacket

J Lightweight blazer

J Microfiber raincoat

J Microfiber

J Evening wrap

J Evening wrap

shell

Winter

leather jacket

Peacoat

J Barn jacket Evening jacket

J Ski parka

J Wool coat J Fur

(faux or with trim)

J Shearling J Evening coat

££ They hadn't tampered with her natural beauty, yet somehow they had succeeded in heightening it. Before

it

used

to creep

immediately'.

Now you

up on you.

noticed

it

She wore eye makeup and

her hair was fuller

9

like

a lion s mane. SJie

still

looked every inch the lady but she was exciting now. J J JACQUELINE SUSANN,

Dressing up Putting

is

up our

about more than just the clothes we wear. hair or letting

it

cascade

down our back can

be elegant or coquettish. Painting our eyes can make us

appear softer and more feminine, or lip

strikingly dramatic.

color we choose can change our look according

The

to the sea-

Valley of the Dolls

son, the time of day, or the dress. parts of the style equation.

how we decide

to pain)

should be part better for

more

of

It's

These subdeties are

integral

more than good grooming;

it's

our portrait And while looking good

our everyda)

lives,

we want

to look even

special occasions, but not unrecognizable.

( |F

built

UPDATE YOUR LOOK.

up over

relatively

time,

makeup gets

Unlike a clothing wardrobe, which

old fast.

way

inexpensive and quick

to

The good news update our

technology gives us better formulas to choose from. looking,

your coloring), color

more which

in



Red

daylight, near a

natural.

is

other.

Otherwise use

lips

concealer and

for

is

Most

overall look.

light this

a necessity

for setting

prepping the skin so

take no

will

give the skin a

realize the

Make sure they're

not unruly.

soft

look longer

smoother look and minimize

impact our eyebrows have on our

brow

and

If

they're very

pencil.

curlier,

more than five minutes, seven

last-minute



if



An eyelash

Applying it's

light,

for

free,

having

foundation or melt as

makeup done

have a run-through



is

'.;.v:s:wS

will

important. Learn

and how you can

in

how

curler

will

a special event.- For

makeup emergencies, stop by your

although they

you may

makeup should

favorite cos-

metic counter. Most experts are happy to apply

look

makeup won't

it

us don't

make eyelashes

lip

lip

side of the sun,

of

itself,

want to darken them with a

dress things up. Apply will



cast by a Chromalux bulb,

the closest thing to natural

sheer loose powder

of

Used by

quickly.

pores.

a

seasons change, so may

window. The results light

is

To stay fresh-

Avoid pairing strong eyes with intense

— do one or the

makeup

A



(as

it

and new

look,

update your makeup seasonally. Try two new shades

and check your foundation

stick,

that

is

is

anticipate a purchase.

makeup If

for

you are

professionally for a special event,

advance. to



Having a good haircut

dress up your day-to-day style

revive a tired hairdo at the

end

of the day.

Makeup Whdi

££ Her presence the vibration of the most MERCEDES DE ACOSTA,

MAKING

raised

commonplace

event. ^5

describing her sister, Rita Ly dig

LAST

IT

The difference among various types of fragrance

The higher the to alcohol, the

is

ratio of

more

strength:

perfume

long-lasting

the fragrance. Forend-of-the-day

touch-ups, carry a purse atomizer.

PERFUME: 5-6 hours

COLOGNE: 2-3 hours TOILET WATER: 2-3 hours LOTION: 3-4 hours

The

scent

we

strategically splash

reminder of the past or

Worn

on can be

a

a hint of a promise.

frequently, a scent

becomes

part of us, a personal signature.

It's

a familiar

absorbed

The right amount becomes part of our aura. Over time we may have built a wardrobe of fragrances. There may be one that we reach for over and over, others that we save for particular occasions or seasons. Or we may be eager to into our clothes, our hair, our skin.

38

Chic Simple

experiment, as with

ment

store

lip color,

counters.

trying

on samples

at depart-

The more adventurous may

try

layering a variety of scents, creating a unique fragrance.

Whether we choose scent

is

to

wear one or not, our personal Fragrance can add

as individual as a fingerprint.

woman's mystique, but too much can destroy it. A woman who wears the same perfume ever\ da) lends to grow immune to its fragrance and applies more and more until those around her are gasping for air. to

a

+ i

t» 1



I *

. \

That's the problem with spring; it's

coats

sleeveless

in

in

the morning and the afternoon.

time of transition in

your mood,

— in

in

A

clothes,

facing

the

world.

Your

whole

heart

is

yearning to shuck off the winter clothes

and emerge as from

a chrysalis. Spring is our time of revival, of rebirth,

and spe-

cial

occasions

mirror

that:

weddings, Easter brunches and

Passover

seders,

uations.

A

season

that's

difficult,

and

grad-

wondrous

always

fresh.

66

/

stuck

my head out

and spring

kissed

window this morning me bang in the face. }}

langston HUGHES,

when

the

the shade.

si

%%

hot

(he

Simple Speaks His Mind

and the wind blows cold

SPRING BASICS white cotton shirt

J

silk knit

sweater set

J dark stretch cotton pants J denim jeans

or khakis

lUiMH|ii\\\NV\^s

PANTS

J blazer J spring

hi

suit

in tat i^v*N\&

J black patent leather shoes )

J pastel evening dress

COLOR

J microfiber raincoat

SHOP YOUR CLOSET out

Bring

your

pretty

silk

scarves. Try pairing

them with

suits

and dresses already

in

1

.

all

your closet.

2 Check out your closet for any .

or

pastel-

woolens.

light-colored

While the weather

is still

shopping your closet

cold, con-

SPRING

on wearing these, then

centrate

graduate to lightweight fabrics.

3 The order of progression: wool to .

wool blends to linens.

When

silk to

cottons and

spring arrives,

it

comes

with a bang, so identify five warmer-

weather

outfits already in

'-' .

%

your closet.

the face

when worn If

at the ears

they look dingy, wash

gently by hand in Ivory Liquid.

out any clothes that no longer

and take them

Pearls add light and a glow to

or neck.

DE JUNK Weed

FIRST AID

Inspect knots to see

fit

to charity thrift shops.

frayed.

If

so,

if

any are

see a jeweler

about having them restrung. 42

Chic Simple

ACCESSORIES

\\ lll.\

CAN

STOP

EARING

1

faQ]

M

STOI kl\(.s>

CLEAN, STORE, AND BUG-PROOF

ii

Except

YOUR WINTER WOOLENS. well,

but

you may

Mothballs work

prefer the fragrance of

comes

cedar, which

in

loo early lo

<;o

ithoul stockings.

II

furs to cold stor-

your area

however, use your best

prolong the

life

of

lias

an early heal wave,

The lower temperature during warmwill

semi-

chips, blocks, or

scented paper. Send your

weather months

in

tropicaJ areas, spring is

\\

age.

\\

judgment. Never

your

wear stockings with fur

and ensure

66 Is

that the hairs don't curl.

the barest sandals.

fashion

important: Well,

ny dear

—you have

to get dressed.

^^

CARRIE DONOVAN

SPRING OCCASIONS St.

Patrick's

Trail...

Dogwood

Baseball

Opener...

Mother's

Day...

Memorial

Easter..

Secretaries

Passover...

Azalea

Day...

Day...

Day..

Festival..

May

Day..

Graduations..

Weddings..

££ Color

elements of style

like

is

food

for the spirit—plus I it's not addictive or fattening.

^

ISAAC MIZRAHI

^3

Depending on their size, scarves can be worn

in

a variety of ways, from beach wrap to evening wrap. They can be tied into an evening pouch, or

worn around the neck

in lieu

own, many are beautiful over a couch or

N

made

of jewelry.

to live with

into

On their

draped

a pillow cover.

COLOR SHOES

\\ II \l

[faQ]

WD

STO( KINCS

sllol II)

\\\

\

WORN

111

HI.

Sheer stockings or

nude

\\

III

I

E?

I

(T\

black

if

you

a color but

your hair or skin coloring,

wearing

try

pumps your face.

looks great and

is

it

doesn't look good with

skin tone) with black

patent leather

like

icy

match

to

(trj

in

more

it

away from

A bag,

belt,

or

shoes are good options.

reliable than trying to

match your stockings

and shoes

to the na\

your

Another option

is

suit.

to take the

\

oi

garment

with you

when shopping

tor shoes

and stockings.

O)

Colorful

They

shoes are

signal that

ready for some

r^) Start your wardrobe

playful.

you are

with a jacket

in

a

neutral color. Your

fun.

next jacket might

be more as

it

is

colorful,

an easy way

to brighten

HATE WEARING COLOR? Have you ever been seduced by the beauty of find a stunning deep-pink

suit,

it

a color?

You

basics

— as

your mood.

looks great on, and you

But the celebratory it. You buy it. and you find yourself rummaging through your something else to wear. The suit color doesn't work

have the occasion to wear

day

arrives,

closet for

with your hair, complexion, accessories, personality

not your

style.



Yet in the bright light of spring, too

black appears mournful, brown

feels

it's

just

BRIGHT SPOTS

much

muddy, and corporate

dampens spring fever. Try navy. It's a springtime classic, offering just enough color to lift the spirits but dependable enough to be elegant and always appropriate, and to mix easily in a crowd. Bear in mind that not all navies are created

LIP

COLOR

SHOES

gray

and dressiest), and a variety of dark blues. Trying to match them can be a nightmare. Stick to one navy throughout your closet and take equal. There's midnight blue (the darkest

a color

up your

other wardrobe

sample with you when shopping.

T-SHIRT

BAG

BLAZER

JEWELRY

SWEATER SET

JACKET

SCARF

BELT

well as

spring texture

&

fabric (faQ

\\

1

1

\

I

I

-

\lilill

knii~. Lycra

I

IUW

>l<iic l~.

I

I

BEST?

and lightweight worsted and

crepe wools are comfortable

••I

lik

to

eight

iihiiiiIi~

.1

\rai.

and

most climates

in

they travel

at

extremeh

walk

down Bond Street

Lightweight wool

Tweed boucle Cashmere Wool

knit

Wool crepe Thick

silk

Silk knit

Synthetic fibers

Cotton Chiffon

Organza Tulle

Lace

leasl

well.

elements of

.style

Layering garments helps deal with the rapid swings in

temperature common

in

spring

and fall. Even

in

a businesslike fabric, a strappy dress is not appropriate for work unless jacket.

It

is

it's

worn under a tailored

acceptable to remove your jacket

in

your

private office or for after-work functions.

m

"^"

T~ arm winds may blow

7

M ^w M M

spring, but often

/

many

/

^kf ^k/

T T

means

damp

cool,

perature

we have made

must our choice of

the

endure ins. this

The heavy

no longer appealing.

is

corduroy, even velvet feel that

during

days until the tem-

transitional clothing.

layering of bulky fabrics

to

wardrobe in

In

rises.

we have

in

move

fabrics.

Fur,

wrong. Color signals

all

into spring,

and

so

Boucle wool and pale

tweeds have plenty of warmth and a pleasing nubbiness to their textures and

come

many

in

soft colors.

Lightweight wool and wool crepes are comfortable

most of the sweaters.

year.

When

Cashmere

the weather

is still

a

warms

good choice

up, switch to

for

silk.

Lightweight knits are a fashionable option for

women on In

around are

the go

the South

who

value style and comfort.

and Southwest,

linens

come out

Easter. In fact, today's casual,

washable linens

warm

climates. In the

worn almost year-round

in

North and East, hold off on wearing linen until Memorial Day. If it is too warm for wool but too early for linen, try cotton or synthetic fibers like viscose, rayon,

These

fibers

and

acrylic, in

woven

fabric or in knits.

have wonderful lightness and

fluidity.

Kate Spade won the Council of Fashion

Designers of America Award designs, which have

she introduced them often colorful,

and

for

her

handbag

become classics since in

1993. They're minimal,

lots of fun to collect.

;

*!

DINNER DATE



ENGAGEMENT PARTY • REHEARSAL

U

N (Q)

+

A fitted jacket and pants that drape softly in the same fabric create a flattering, continuous to that of a long

line similar

one-piece dress.

ACCESSORIES

VERSATILITY <

v -^

For spring, the traditional neutrals are navy, beige, cream, taupe,

where

is

it

and pale gray. But

written that

pink, pale blue, or

you

can't treat

maize as a

powder

neutral''

SPRING SIMPLE If all this talk

about fashion rules gives you a headache, you are

you may ever read is that those renowned for their style usually circumvent any worry over "rules" by sticking to simple solutions. By stocking their closets with a few high-quality, understated outfits in neutral colors, then adding not alone.

The

best fashion advice

them up or down, they of being properly and well dressed. And they

accessories to dress

are always assured establish their

personal styles by adding signature accessories

— always

own

wearing

a hat, a cache of favorite pearls, or the ultra-high heels they love.

DINNER

DAYTIME WEDDING

BABY SHOWER

BAPTISM

BAR MITZVAH

\X.-_

*

Monochromatic dressing

is

Accessories gain importance

when they are worn with neutral-colored clothes.

elegant

and slimming and makes one appear taller. If

you are

petite,

the mid-calf length

may appear overpowering unless the

fit

is

narrow.

Hemlines are

no longer dictated by fashion trends.

Wear what you feel in,

comfortable

and what

makes you feel pretty.

What Should VV I

^

ootwear: Function or fetish? Most

agree

it's

both.

Run

or walk? Shoe choices seem

obvious, but then again,

I

P—

casual workdays

women would

who

women

black

pumps

to

work? Rain, snow, mud, and heat motivated our did we

days are drier,

we can wear

materials

patent leather without fear of ruin.

And

their

Some women may admit

spring and

ably our favorite

The

first

it

ma\

as well

Now

be ignored. to

it is

wear suede veai-

round and slingback or open-toed pumps summer or winter. Only one rule remains semisacrosanct, one having to do with

is

white shoes: In the Fast, the rule

our dark, heavy winter shoes and

Unpack

of feminine or

a pair

perfectly acceptable

is

the perfect time to put away most o

boots.

summer; and

ten they

wardrobe purchase

week of spring weather

terms of a shoe

in



prob-

is

leather.

shoes thai can be worn da) or night. comes to the rules, main we learned as no suede in spring or summer; no children open toes until after Faster— ate broken so

When

(but never to

another excuse for buying what

black

festive flat

like-

as the

husbands) that a change of season

Suddenly,

Hats.

than

evening shoes, perhaps high-heeled sandals for

sun shines brighter, so does our choice of colors.

fresher

season: daytime dress shoes, usually pumps; a pair of

make rules about what color shoes should be worn when? Some of it is common sense. As days get warmer, shoes often become skimpier.

When

pumps look

wardrobe as opposed to buying shoes lor each outfit. Most women need at least three pairs of dress shoes each

ancestors to build shelters and skin animals for clothing

But when

patent

For special-occasion dressing, think

insisted that before

should wear

pumps and

sandals and lighter-colored

shoes

until

South,

the strappy evening

it

is

after

no

Memorial Day.

white-

the

In

shoes until after Easter.

\\

(

faQ

w

I

\i;

i

STOi ki\(.-I

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS

no white

is

TV) nol \

wnii

RAPP> SANDALS? In.

nil insist,

till!

if

make

your toe polish

sure

is

clear, the stockings

are nude, an- mi

\

and there

isible

seams

or reinforcements.

BLACK PATENT LEATHER PUMP Black patent instantly says spring.

has pizzazz. I'm strutting

It

C

has shine.

It

screams, "I'm out of hibernation and

my

stuff."

doesn't scream, but

50

It

and warm days and Style with a capital

it

Okay,

maybe black patent

speaks strongly of sunshine

it

is

S. Actually,

not far removed from the patent leather Mary

Janes you wore as a

child.

A patent pump can

update a suit for spring, while a patent to your khakis

flat

adds kick

and brightens up your black trousers.

Spring

in

Your Walk <Q)

Silver

shoes look

great with pastel

evening clothes. They're the next

best thing to glass. Just

ask

Cinderella.

Choose toe color with dress <°~>s

in

mind.

Simple feminine lines.

Think ballet

slippers,

rainbow

colors, dinner parties, Capri

pants, bare legs,

Audrey Hepburn.

mm If high

heels were so wonderful,

men would

be wearing them. J J

SUE GRAFTON, "I" Is for

Innocent

I

Comfort shoes that

work

with pants

and

skirts alike.

The canvas sneaker: Sporty comfort

Coco Chanel

when cheering on

introduced

your favorite

color combina-

ball

team, or shopping for their

postgame

refreshments.

tion

this

because

she believed flattered the foot.

it

Day-Tripping Spring

is

the season

women

when method of dressing in

and separates

After heavy winter dressing,

suits

are the easiest

layers, dresses

to a

need

for simplicity

and

time of year that a dress and companion sweater are most

naturally yearn for dresses.

femininity. This

is

valuable

speak

in

the special-oc

ular sleeveless

and

up ma\ be required

also the

c

asion wardrobe. Even with pop-

tank-style dresses, lor

some

type of cover-

comforl or appropriateness.

U's-

CHARITY LUNCH A

slightly fitted, quality

sleeves,

grazing the

worn with

A simple dress works when

knee and

classic accessories,

is

feminine yet doesn't detract from the occasion.

BIRTHDAY LUNCH

dress with

Long

Chic Simple

floral-print

dresses are innocent by

day and romantic at night. Their allure suits

52

feels too serious.

GRADUATION LUNCH

most body types, regardless

of age.

a suit

A sweater wrap

adds color — a casual warmth and touch.

If

spiritual

life

seems beyond your grasp, wear Kazuko's one-

spring

of-a-kind "healing sculptures," believed by her fans (including Jeff

and Kim) to be conducive to peace and and other personal Barneys

well-being. This necklace

"transmitters" are available exclusively from

New York.

\

Going out

after

work? Dress things up

by changing shoes and bag. Ankle straps are saucy, but avoid them if

ankles aren't your strong point.

BUSINESS LUNCH TO DINNER DATE

— day to night. With a

One

outfit

suit

and can go from a business meeting

tility,

properly buttoned jacket, a bare dress

becomes

a dress

to cocktails after work. For this kind of versa-

the fabric should be neither day- nor evening-specific, and a neutral color

is

key.

A dress suit need not be tussy. A simple satin binding,

even

on a zippered

suit,

lends a note of dress-up, as does a suit's color

and

fit.

ress

"q-.

:$

afternoon wedding wmw

Pearls are mysteriously organic: to

keep

They must be worn their luster

and are

damaged by perfume.

,

** *

*

\

Excellent fakes

.y-y.

are worth

than

more

inferior

cultured pearls.

~"

—"^^ I I

^

B>_

I it

It

prettier,

the

most sporting

of

than our

gems, and the easiest to wear. They

versatile everyday suit, the dress suit

makes us when we

appear genteel when worn with a

we're going to something special

may be is

a

a

little

little

more

fitted,

or worked in a fabric



arises,

suit,

and quirky with

is

more

festive

than we're

Never

seriously

ostentatious, no matter

how many

black

leather.



and the details braiding, decorative buttons, embroidery clearly show that this suit is not to be mixed with other wardrobe items. Each time the appropriate to,

good wool

too precious for the office or school

board meeting. Perhaps the color

occasion

Pearls are

less practical

or texture that

accustomed

many of us feel the more feminine way at

spring fever, but

time of year. While

this

feel that

on.

it's

urge to dress in a

more

—M— put

erhaps

we look forward

to pulling

it

strands are worn, they are favorites

out from that

section of our closet designated for dress-up clothes only.

that never

fall

out of style.

Inspired t

Head coverings are required for

women in Islamic

£ £ You can have on

mosques and in Orthodox Jewish synagogues, as

a brand-new

suit,

is

modest dress.

Covered arms

and hemlines

but

if

love

is

not

that

fall

well

Delow the knee are appropriate.

your heart, you are

in

a dressed-up mess.59 REV. KEVIN W.

COSBY Passover— traditionally

a

time to wear

something new.

A

s

i^L

/

/

^k ^k

dress codes have relaxed at work, so they have

become more

casual

for special holidays.

ou

i

Si

1

1

id. is

finest

"I

worship, even

nity,

The notion

of putting on

ings.

al

places

or Saturda)

In

-si

(depending

JL_ on the religion) as a matter of respect has been challenged. More and more women are showing up at -*

services wearing pants, as are

The assumption focus

is

feel that dressing in

56

Chic Simple

men

without jackets and

that religion should

more on worship than

What

ties.

be user-friendly, with

the caliber of dress. Others

such a casual manner

is

inappropriate.

right for

is

you depends on your religious

the event at your place of worship, If

you are a

member

and your inner

feel-

of a laid-back congregation,

jeans or walking shorts might be acceptable. But

awkward

commu-

in casual clothes, try

if

you

feel

wearing your best slacks with

a nice blouse. Fine details like a quality watch, polished

makeup may help you personexperience as being a little more special.

leather shoes, or a ally

mark the

When we make sets

our inner

little

an effort to dress for an occasion,

mood

it

not only

but communicates respect to others.

Church or Temple

While dress codes

seem to be getting more casual,

traditional

aspects of religion are gaining In

in popularity.

general, the

more

observant the group,

Shoes are

not

the stricter the dress

permitted

in

When Jackie

code.

Hindu and

Kennedy was in the

Islamic places

of worship,

White House, she

so

set an

make sure your socks are

example

churchgoing

of

in

in

casual dress with

good shape.

bare legs and arms,

and a mantilla atop her head.

DRESS UP CASUALLY. or blazer; jewelry; silk

lip

Asweaterset

color; good-quality

shoes; a

scarf around the neck; well-tailored slacks; a

long, loose skirt; casual styles in quality fabrics.

NO'S: Noisy slits;

jewelry.

Anything revealing

NO-

— low-cut;

see-through; extremely short; bare shoul-

ders and legs (except perhaps

and

in

summer).

fabrics that are disrespectful

God's creatures (animal

in

Prints

honoring

prints, leather clothes).

Wha-

: I

i

\Atear?

57

EASTER PARADE • NOW, VOYAGER

GREAT HAT MOVIES:

Dress

hats require confidence.

dence that the hat

is

Not only

and

feel "right" in the hat.

diat

HAT

OCCASIONS

you look

Properly worn, hats

Weddings

are die focal point of most ensembles (c\er\-

one knows the best reason to wear a hat is a bad hair daw and if you wear a red hat, no one looks at your hips). The British still wear hats to Ascot for the horse races

and

to

weddings and

hats, that is). It

is

also

customary among to

and

funerals.

mam

party, or a christening,

hat. In

est place in the

Houston,

— baptisms,

world (some

at

River

Oaks

society

luncheons

choose

heralded as the

women

clothes three times a day), hats

Ascot

grad-

For most Americans

women may

a city

Derby Day

African-

hats have fallen out of favor, but lor a big wedding,

wear a fancy

Synagogue

wear hats or ethnic

turbans to church or for ceremonies

garden

Easter

funerals, the bigger the better (the

Americans, especially in the South, uations, weddings,

BREAKFAST AT

confi-

appropriate to the outfit

and the occasion but confidence



Garden party

.1

Pool party

to

dressi-

routinely change

make an appearance in

the early spring.

v.idmg a beautiful hat to

a serious

suit

can create

a romantic ensemble.

4 58

Chic Simple

TIFFANY'S

• THE

BAREFOOT CONTESSA



PILLOW TALK

CASABLAN C A



K ^ faQ]

What makes

\

ii\i

springs

Straw, pastel colors. ^|ni ringtime >ilk flowers,

Suede

is

and

I'aux

I

mil.

fine, in liirln c slors.

?

tuppy sandals, a small bag,

and a beaded top

can transform a quality day suit

into

an evening

event.

Making is

the call on whether specific clothing

appropriate for a special occasion can

make

a

woman

like a

feel

major league

umpire. The fabric makes a dressy, call "foul "?

The

SometiiiK suits,

are

s

it's

safely

but would the pants make someone

home

do your glitscream "evening game" loud enough?

color says basic

tering accessories

suit

a very

tough

call.

run, but

Pants, especially pant-

now considered appropriate wear

for

more and

Iridescent taffeta is

considered very

dressy, but working in

it

a pantsuit trimmed

python gives

it

in

attitude,

more appropriate for unconventional events like

book

parties

and

gallery openings.

Pant more

types

of occasions. Chalk

Fridays or our

more

it

active lifestyles

up to dress-down and the desire to

always feel comfortable. Yet there are areas of the country

out of place.

When

in

and

still

conservative

which pants might be ahead and ask your host

affairs at

doubt,

call

or a trusted friend what the protocol

is.

If

you're

new

in

town, find out about local dress codes by contacting the fashion editor at the local newspaper or the fashion

consultant at one

of the finer department stores.

a

\

White Shirt SIMPLE SOLUTIONS It's

a backdrop that can handle

anything. With black pants and

pearls

it's

an all-time classic

uniform stylish on. Think



women depend

Audrey Hepburn and

summer

special-occasion wardrobe, Irobe, pick

for

one

works

in

ment

a sturdy fabric. This gar-

will

probably require more

cleaning than any other. Highquality silk broadcloth

and

silk

for dressy-casual

during

sions

months or

crepe are fine choices. Also,

quality,

choose the

consider the fabric's weight.

Avoid

you?

If

you're starting to build a

Four-ply silk can be too

warm

occa-

warm-weather

after five. Cotton is

another option, but look for

Sharon Stone. But how do you right white shirt for

wear. Silk shantung

such as Sea Island.

patch

pockets,

as they

look casual and limit versatility.

spring

SPRING Brunch Fail

Tennis match Antiquing

AUTUMN Movies

Shopping Class trip Sightseeing Traveling

Museum

WHITE AS WHITE.

JjJ

soften the look of the shirt.

If

shirt,

they have a creamy

Native Americans have 17 words for white; Benjamin

while a hint of blue or gray can tint,

make

it

look starchier.

choose a white blouse or shirt with the same.

If

Moore has more than 200. A

you own

pearls, take

tint

of yellow or pink

can

them with you when choosing a white

Ultrawhite pearls tend to look best with a crisp white cotton

shirt.

L

DRESS UP CASUALLY WITH KNITS. Matching tops and bottoms look sophisticated.

Even casual shirt

such as sweatpants or a sweat-

can be made more luxurious

special, like knit

styles

top

is

cashmere.

one

of the

most

women, and somewhat flats

A

traveling helps

flattering

necklines for

sexy. Bold jewelry

at

is

you sidestep

wrinkles. In quality

and

all

silk

a low-key

for

home. Wearing

topped with a pashima shawl,

and a piece

the fiber

slightly off -the- shoulder

dress up the simplest knits

evening of entertaining

if

knits

a

when

knit that's

shoes and bag.

of fine jewelry, you'll look elegant

and

pulled together from airline check-in to hotel check-in.

Knits

pack well,

resist wrinkling,

and are comfortable and extremely versatile, perfect

when you're traveling.

Knits H

Ifyou aren't enjoying

\ your clothes, then

you

really

are missing the point

55

BETTY HALBREICH WITH SALLY WADYKA, Secrets of a Fashion Therapist

64

Chic Simple

home

ining at

A sweater becomes an evening

when

affair

paired

with a long

Wear

it

skirt.

to lunch

with slacks or khakis.

Once

the province of casual wear, knits

fulfill

many

now

of our needs for dressing up.

A

black cashmere turtleneck for sophisticated cool.

A

colorful sweater set as a feminine,

alternative to the jacket.

A

silk

knit T-shirt to

up while dressing down. And roomy handknits to keep us warm. This is the beginning of a knit wardrobe, but the comfort of knits is also found in other wardrobe items such as pants, dresses, skirts, and jackets. Knits pack dress



and move sensuously two worthwhile considerations. Although the term "sweater" comes from the heavy blanket that horse trainers would throw over sweating thoroughbreds, the sweater, when draped over women like Grace Kelly, induced perspiration in a decidedly different population. They were popularized in the 19th century when worn by men for sports, and Coco Chanel later created sweaters for women, most notably the sweater set, and they have since become a basic in a woman's wardrobe. easily

65

dressing up casual

FROM SEATTLE vr

O

T

O H O

S

is

set

a feminine

complement

leans.

Occasions your

arise

pants profile.

ii|>

casual

when

of bottoms can

mated

wardrobe

cashmere sweater,

when vou iwcd

tions,

be spruced up

polished

—a fine cotton shut,

a tailored jacket

time to put your accessories

punch

Even the mosi

more

with

Favorites

to

to

Now

a

also the

is

work. With a lew addi-

you can transform plain pants into superpants.

"Investment" accessories can strut the quality of a pair

MOVIE DATE

of loafers, a special bag with staving power, or good

gold or

silver jewelry signal that

khakis are not to be taken belt

lightlv.

And your

can whisper elegance or sing out in

remember, whatever

,

your denim jeans and

its

pitch,

all

choice of joy.

Mixing jeans with a

silk

scarf,

cashmere

sweater, fun jewelry, and relaxed, colorful

But

eves are listening.

shoes speaks worlds about your

style.

can provide just the right

amount of dress-up.

It

all

depends on what you wear

No need to wear

with them.

socks with spring

flats

and

khakis.

MUSEUM DATE Why

LUNCH DATE

not dress up your khakis? Feminine

shoes and a tailored jacket

in a soft

offset khaki's military heritage.

color

Dress up simple shapes with luxury fabrics or dramatic design

—a

ver jewelry, leather

cashmere flats,

T-shirt, bold sil-

are wardrobe basics.

spring

FANCY

For mosi of us there aren't main sons to gel very dressed

up,

lea-

unless

we're invited to a black-tie wedding.

women

involved with charita-

\\u\

for

ble

fundraising,

fairly

these occasions are

routine. For them, each season

usually

for

calls

at

least

one

big

evening of dinner, dancing, jewelry, fabulous dresses, and considerable donations.

necessary

A t<>

dress-up wardrobe these

women

is

as

as sneakers

are to a runner. These an- events that are often featured in local papers

and

magazines, and what you wear may

determine whether your presence will he immortalized in print. Unless you're very clever about transforming dresses you've

you're

more

dresses.

worn apt

to

to

other events,

buy statement

These are unforgettable and

editors ample copy to write, and admirers much to think about.

will give

68

Chic Simple

I 'III

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS If

the need to pull out

quent, invest

occasion calls

for,

in

all

the wardrobe stops

the best black dress you can afford. As the

put your accessories, including hair and makeup, to

work. Short dresses are more versatile than long, although you

one

of each.

ful for less

less fre-

is

The barer the

dressier, but a

matching cover-up

may want

will

be help-

formal events. Fabric and detailing also determine degrees of dressiness. Beading

on chiffon

opportunity to change with the

is

fabulous, but has less

mood than

a silk crepe.

.

HWfear?

69

ET

OPENING

REHEARSAL DINNER

*

In

a dressy

fabric like

pants

become

festive

enough

to

wear instead

of

a cocktail

dress.

Pull

out your depend-

able black evening

accessories and

decide between low-

keyed

for

conservative

events or strappy and glittery for dressier.

Evening pajamas with an alluring top can be formal ng occasions.

70

(

with

the

right

accessories.

around the neck frame the face. Enjoy

Ruffles color.

BLACK-TIE WEDDING

Knits

and weaves

are a

bit

MUSEUM PARTY

more

casual than most formal wear, but

a clinging metallic

sories

an

fit

and

acces-

can make

outfit glitter.

A small fabric bag is

always dressy.

Black

tie

doesn't necessarily

"long dress." Beading

on

silk

mean chiffon

jazzes uo a short, strappy one.

Metallic

weaves are fun

for

special

evenings.

If

— in

a charming short

Charming because

of the pastel color,

you've got

Simple accessories showcase the dress. A wrap

slip dress.

adds drama and offers shelter for bare shoulders.

sexy because

it,

it

flaunt

looks

it

like. ..well,

your

slip.

Puddle Jumper lanning ahead for rainy days means more than

and bonds. It means having the proper gear to stay dr\ and protect your finest. And because rain-gear items are wardrobe basics, not only do they need to work with the investing in stocks

a classic,

and

showers or sunshowers. Black COtton

is

more

is



and

dressier than khaki,

casual than nylon or

coats oiler possibilities

silk.

Reversible rain-

a contrasting pattern or blight

color lor pizzazz. Microfiber coats are light and easv to

They keep the wind and

clothes they cover, but von should enjoy wearing them.

pack.

Raincoats can be practical, vet versatile. The trench coal

long rain-proofed

is

you through chilling

a zip-in lining will get

->ilk

and warmth

rain out.

in.

A

coat can double as an evening wrap.

• » Spring

makes everything look

filthy.

59

KATHERINE WHITEHORN

fifth

BUY A GOOD UMBRELLA.

Black tile.

is

the

most elegant and versa-

Finer umbrellas are sturdy with a

long

wood

handle. They have cov-

ers that are cut

each

and sewn and

rib. fittings in

springs

in

the shape

solid brass,

nickel silver. is

tied to

large for

When

and

open,

easy refuge.

If

you consider umbrellas disposable items or hate to look of

doom on

try

compact model

72

Chic:

in

a harbinger

what's forecasted to be

a sunny day,

easily

like

a tote.

a brightly colored

that folds

and stows

Nonrubberized

rain-

:<$':

coats usually require re-waterproofing after

being cleaned. Alert

your dry cleaner.

:<$:

Consider tucking your business card

into

the

pocket of your raincoat

and

inside the inner

of your rain hat.

the sun

comes out, these

items often turn up lost

band

When in

the

and found,

73

spring beauty & fragrance

Fresh Cut we reawaken our wardrobes in spring, we also need to lake a look at oui beaut) routines. Sunt / ^k with a facial, sloughing off dead cells, declog^k ging pores, and purifying your skin so that f _x_ you begin the season with a fresh face. Then A

s

t^L

M

try a few quick spring pick-me-ups

— new makeup colors,

a spring haircut, and a change in fragrance. Watch for

gift-with-purchase offers from your favorite cosmetics

company, or experiment with

new

usually offer

a

new brand. Companies

colors each season, whether lipstick,

Or visit the makeup counter for a free makeover. Many makeup artists schedule lessons for their clients in spring. And while they generally eye shadow, or blush.

• • The sudden desire

charge, learning to use

and the assurance

that

for your skin tone

new products and techniques

you have chosen the best colors

and

may be worth

hair

the cost.

Next, rid yourself of the winter hair blahs. This generally

means

a shorter haircut,

and perhaps adding some

highlights. For a new style altogether, clip photographs from beauty magazines before you visit your hairdresser, or find a stylist you trust and give him or her free rein. Don't fear: Hair will always grow back. Your final touch of spring might be a new fragrance. Floral scents are especially popular this time of year;

names of

the

flowers

now

their essences are often the

in

bloom

— rose,

lily,

to look beautiful

same

gardenia,

as those

lilac, freesia.

made her

straighten her back. Beautiful?

For whom? Why, for

myself, of course.

^5

COLETTE SMELL LIKE SPRING. nature's

most complex scents

and they

istry,

there,

frosted

it's

familiar,

lipstick.. .didn't

in

IN

TIME. Sometimes we

Sticking with

worn since you were prom queen bration of

who you

face, your hair, your

is

makeup

not a

good

are today, not a memorial to

body

— they're

all

different

Whereas

in liquid

it's

for

eyeliner or

Makeup

has, too.

Each age should be a celethen. Your

now, and you need to adjust the way

to repel predators,

it

designed

floral

scents to

entice pollinators. White flowers are usually the fragrant.

They are the heart and soul

most

of perfumery.

them, and enhance them. But you're not the only one who's evolved.

you care

what you've

who you were back

wood

We've

cling to the past.

simply because

idea.

cheerful or deeply

nature designed the scents of greens and

and we know we once looked great

we?

flirtatious or

intoxicating to the point of provocation.

terms of chem-

the strongest emotional

elicit

™ NOT LOOK STUCK been

response. They are

Flowers possess

The homespun potions

of antiquity

have paved the way

for

foundations that protect us from the sun, mascaras that condition and lengthen our lashes,

and

sensitivities,

lipsticks that moisturize while

adding color. Makeup accommodates our

our breakouts, our contact lenses, and our age. There's a better chance

of finding the perfect

makup now than ever before. Just read the labels and experiment.

n

SUMMER

The perception:

Ice

cream

colors... biiglm

safari khakis.. .ethnic finds.. .sex) bikinis.. .countn simplicity...

SUMMER skin... tourist- trap

The

reality:

clothing

Mosquito

and

nets.. .silk saunas..!

accessories. ..garish greens. .\

chapter four • • The softness of the

Just alter the last

last

spring rain

or, in

the Rock\ Mountains, the

spring blizzard, the planet seems to slow

peculiar shift that

one can

feel all

on

its

axis, a

the way to the center of

one's being, and suddenly a warm, languid craving for

all

that

is

summer day

sensual overwhelms one.

Food

is

[was]

never so fresh, bare skin

glows warm and smooth, afternoon naps become carefree esc ajx-s. is

easy,

and

at night

everyone shines and sparkles. The

and so are your

liviif

clothes. Sink your teeth into a peach.

prints.

.

.

ethereal whites. nature- lover greens. Out of Africa . .

. .

cool as a cucumber.. .romantic firefly evenings.. .net fr\

and silk.

ing eggs on the sidewalk... Bikini Atoll...Deepest Africa safari

circus prints.. ./imp linens...country bumpkin... nothing to wear.

lik e

an ermine paw. %%

ANAIS NIN,

The Diary of Anai's Nin,

mm should like to enjoy this summer flower by flower, as if

vol.

2

\

to

be the

ANDRE GIDE,

last

Journal

one for me.

^

it

were

SUMMER BASICS

(Jjjy

<*V

J Capri pants

J sundress

J

J sunglasses

DRESS

Pull

FRESHEN UP YOUR JEWELRY. out your colorful beads, plastics,

V

bold hoops, and cuffs.

carryall

bag

5*'

*V x

J sun hat

for fun,

J

J swimsuit and

and bags. Play

J evening wrap J hoop

inexpensive

summer

with scale,

add multiples— keep

cover-up

it

go

jewelry big, or

fun.

J white cotton

earrings

J sandals

shorts

SURVEY JUNE

you are run-

ning low, raid the juniors department

J cotton sweater cotton T-shirt

If

&

ASSESS

Examine your bathing

cover-up for

fit

and condition.

suit

and

Is

your

beach tote clean? Are your rubber sandals

still

sturdy? Have your white linen

garments turned yellow?

Visit the dry-

cleaner and tailor before the heat hits

and catches you with nothing clean and fresh to wear.

AUGUST

Check your closet

weight clothes

in

for light-

dark colors that

will

help you through hot days after Labor Day.

Try on autumn clothing for

fit.

Decide what key pieces you want to invest in to update your

fall

wardrobe.

*%. FIRST AID Bring out any white,

&

WHITE JEANS FABRIC PURSE

light,

linen,

and cotton clothing and check for spots or tears.

washable and

If

white items are

fairly sturdy,

hang

or spread

them

few hours

of natural bleaching.

in

the sun for a

SHOES

£ £ One of

my mottos

flaunt

is

what you ve got left.

BAGS

9

[faQ]

Can

1

contini

i.

}}

CYBILL SHEPHERD

to carr^

\n BLACK LEATHER BAG si

MMER?

Of

course, although

it

l\

looks

very serious and somber.

Otherwise, you would do best to

change

canvas, or

to black nylon,

woven

straw, or

to a lighter neutral color.

UaQ

V)\\ CAN \\

I

STOP

EARING STOCKINGS?

Surprisingly, in the East

stockings

women

BATHING SUITS

go without

more

in

mer than women

sumiu

the

South and Southeast,

where

it

is still

often

considered a breach of

SUMMER OCCASIONS

etiquette in the dressiest situations.

No one should

Fourth

of

July...

Debutante

wear stockings with hare, strappy sandals.

Cotillion... Bastille Day... Father's

Day

.

.

.

Beach

Graduations

.

parties...

.

.

Barbecues Fish

.

.

fries...

rfA Black looks great with a tan during

the if

Afternoon teas... Baby showers...

summer months

the fabric

weight,

is light-

like linen.

Family reunions...

Clambakes...

H

N

slimmer

hen you think of summer bet,

color, think

of sher-

mangoes, and the candy-colored houses

The

of the tropics. sparkle

in

vibrant tones of

sunlight.

summer

They make us smile, to show off a tan or a

whether we wear hot pink

pool-blue suit to cool ourselves off in the heat of July. are color-shy, spread

it

around

in

If

you

your wardrobe. Top a black

swimsuit with a bright-yellow cover-up. Ditch that beige purse for a

little

something

in lime green. Spice

up Memorial Day

with orange, the Fourth of July with red, white, and blue

and gold

stars.

Color also extends to hats and shoes. Let

fuchsia canvas espadrilles perk

mer is

at its hottest, switch to

up

a white sundress.

When

sum-

no-color white or frosty colors

cool pinks, blues, lavenders, and greens with a

little

sheen or

shine. Also, wearing a sundress or sleeveless sheath of black

or brown can highlight healthy skin and look terribly sophisticated in the

city,

even when you

feel as

though you are melting.

81

SA1

Is II

elements of style

faQ) -I

MMI

I

\I!UI< S

I^Ml

\l!l

I

ro TRASH

i

li

Proceed

\\

II

111

(

SI Mil

IS?

II

camion

iih

\l\ llll

I

abrics

such a^ pique, rayon, and acetatl tend in shrink Inn

man)

when washed.

cottons. -IIL

ami in

n .iin

and

Si. in

w nli cold «

a gentle cycle, or I

A&-

*.

washable linens behave well

lane or

la>

il.n

m

LINEN

SHANTUNG COTTON PIQUE SILK

NYLON

STRAW POPLIN

SEERSUCKER SPANDEX CANVAS

.iii'i

hand-wash.

to dry.

summer

texture

& fabric

Cool Breezy '

(\£)

Summer

can mean: sweaty, soiled,

sticky, stifling, suf-

A pale pastel dress looks best with accessories

word

focating, stuffy, sweltering... and the

in fabrics in

is

You want something that comfortably against your skin. Cool and breezy is how your

survival.

floats

clothes should feel, even

if it's

only in your head.

Perfect for summer's dressy events (and an

shantung takes

its

name from Shantung

Shantung's wonder

it

maintains a perfect pants crease. But

it

wrinkle resistance, look for shantung that

For that most important event

nothing

says

"s"

word),

province in China.

the fact that

lies in

a complemen-

tary tone.

takes dye well

and

also wrinkles; for is

a blend of fibers.

—a wedding or formal party

summer-special

more

Linen was long maligned because

it

than

pure

wrinkles so

silk.

easily.

Times have changed, and with the rise in today's more casual dressing and the continued interest in natural fabrics, there is much more acceptability in a "softly rumpled" appearance. Linen, like cotton, breathes, allowing your body heat to travel freely

through the fabric and not

clothes.

The

lie

trapped beneath your

finer the weave, the lighter the fabric.

Washable

linens even have tags that caution against dry cleaning.

Cotton pique

is

a

doubly woven

fabric;

it is

usually ribbed

honeycomb pattern called pique has a diamond pattern with

or woven in a tiny

waffle pique.

Bird's-eye

a center dot.

The

texture of pique adds importance to a natural fiber. All

of these fabrics, whether shantung,

silk,

pique or linen,

@* A closed-back pump is more conservative, yet

have a hand to them, a texture that adds a richness.

the T-strap and high heel are

flirtatious.

HI!

The clue to not appearing overly casual

is

the quality of your garments

and accessories. You can save

money by wearing catalog-basic clothing with investment acces-

sories—a good watch, bag, shoes.

CASUAL FRIDAY Your choice of jewelry

can be more creative

on casual

DRESS DOWN AT THE OFFICE.

jft|

easier, espiM

the

spirit

ially

when

11

comes

l

what

It's

summertime and

we wear. Many

if

businesses get

for

dress-down Fridays between Memorial Day and

one continue to look professional? Turns out the usual and appropriateness

apply, but

now

Casual Friday staples include sweater sets, flowing skirts. respectability client

A

tailored jacket

rules of

the emphasis flat

how can

groomu

is

on comfort.

shoes, pants, and long.

can be counted on

to provide instant

when worn over more casual clothes— handy for unexpected

meetings. As always,

it

pays to buy clothes you can wear several

ways— khakis work with either a blazer or a crisp shirt. As an executive, may self

feel

from the rest of the

staff.

Try wearing suits like flat

in

casual fabrics

shoes and

T-shirts.

like

cotton,

Or coordinate

with quality accessories. casual clothes, such as a sundress or khakis,

Chic Simple

you

alienate youruncomfortable going casual, but you won't want to

paired with relaxed accessories

84

Fridays, but

start picking

up the beat when you walk by, perhaps your

by allowing

mean'' And Labor Day. But what exactly does corporate casual

quality,

in

people

jewelry

is

too noisy.

summer 4 4 Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance. 59 TONY BROWN A summer dress can work in the office If

if

REAL

not too sheer or clingy.

somewhat bare, wear under it

a sweater or jacket.

AUTHORITY DRESS APPROPRIATELY.

J}U

sentation.

tents

—a

Would you take report covered

ribbons? The

Think of yourself as a business pre-

seriously

in

floral

— no

matter

how sober

motifs, tied together with pink silk

consideration should go into what you wear. Your

same

clothes are part of your personal presentation. Ask yourself:

you

whom? Sometimes wearing

selling to

a

suit in

ating as conducting a meeting with your

To bare

or not to

bare? Be sure your office

in

beach

take a

for you,

attire.

good look

Dress codes

at

vary.

business

board

What

is

are

as alien-

of directors while

To determine what's

your office's corporate culture

right

—ad agen-

dress code

sanctions bare legs

decked out

con-

its

and sandals.

cies, for

you

in

example,

sales, or

will differ

behind a computer

Then check that Finally,

from banks. Next, consider your

what's your day

like:

all

role:

Are

day; the boss, or an assistant?

Are you making a presentation or schmooz-

your legs are

clean-shaven and toes are groomed.

ing with clients after

work? When

doubt, look at

someone in the office

you admire and check out her choices. Generally,

whose

style

have

ask whether an

to

in

outfit

passes muster, the answer

is

if

you

probably no.

:

.ear?

85

BARE NECESSITIES J

flip-flop

J

athletic

shoe

J canvas sneaker

J mule

J

leather thong

J

ballet slipper

-I

gardening clog

J Birkenstocks

J

strappy heeled sandal

exposu]

warm

weather, with clothing options pared to

minimum, shoes are perhaps our most Our choice of shoes more than any other element determines whether we the bare

In

MULES: Although the exact mule

is

lost

to

history,

birth date of the

as

originated

it

valuable style assets.

footwear for the boudoir, worn by the most

appear dressed up or dressed down. Low-cut canvas tennies, for example,

make

a cotton shift perfect for

grocery shopping, but a pair of strappy, high-heeled sandals can take the

cheon. sandals,

And

same dress

to

a dance at the country club?

Manolo Blahnik doesn't have customers, he has Since opening Blahnik has

his

first

women and

courtesans.

In

became the

silent signal in

most famous

the

the twentieth century, mules

an important lun-

with a pair of floral slippers or metallic

why not

fashionable

shoe boutique

in

London

movies that the

wearer was on the make — adorned with acolytes. in

1

of fluff

perched upon

bits

and associated

satin,

973,

made his name in fantasy and fetish. He is

with scenes of seduction.

Now mules

are

adamant about quality: His production process includes 100 phases and he aims

for perfection.

considered chic party shoes and are able

in

avail-

myriad colors, fabrics, and heights.

An acclaimed

style duet

when

paired with

Capri pants, they help simple clothes appear festive,

at-home entertaining.

perfect for

Yes, they're

still

sexy, possibly

the recklessness of their

open backs. Their

mate nature

because

of

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS

inti-

restricts

them

gatherings

to

with friends. Don't wear them to the office, a job interview (unless

it's

at a nightclub), a

funeral, or on a visit to your banker.

only

when you want

to shout,

I

Wear them

am woman.

87

'



Travelin A softly tailored jacket

in

khaki

enough

is

relaxed

to

wear with the

most casual

of

clothes, while

it

dresses them up

a

bit.

Frescoes reveal one- shoulder garments

were popular among ancient Egyptians.

The look was revived in

the fashion world by

Madame Gres in the 1930s and Halston in

the

1

970s.

A one-

shoulder bathing

suit

evokes Tarzan and

Jane

—a look

that

both

primitive

and sexy.

is

ATURDAY

Revealing, yet controlled will

CASUAL FRIDAY

Take note: You

draw attention to

your upper arms and shoulders.

'/

PACK LIGHT.

Simplicity. Comfort. Adventure. Relaxation. Characteristics of

summer we hope to extend to what we pack for weekend getaways. The goal light,

bringing just

enough

events you anticipate



to deal with the

golf outing,

expected and unexpected.

clambake, nature

needs. Begin with a versatile piece of clothing.

88

Chic Simple

It

hike. Pull

First,

out clothes to

is

pack

to

dress.

Use

the predominant color as the basis for other items you choose.

the style, the

more ways you can wear

minimum

it.

Fabrics should

down

require the

fulfill

these

accessories to vary mood. Try on everything. Nothing

print

lightweight. Clothes that

of care are preferable: Linen wrinkles, cotton Lycra doesn't.

write

might be a colorful jacket or a

be

The simpler

is

Use

worse than getting away and

discovering that more than your horizons have expanded since

last

summer.

summer

<f^)

Summer accessories are often colorful in

and

pattern

design.

A vintage

cigarette

f^)

playful

and

case

is

a

Floral patterns

chic

look especially

money and keys.

way to hold

good on summer dresses. In

browns and

beiges, the

feminine design will

look

more

sophisticated.

SATURDAY NIGHT SUNDAY

The ease of a

long,

bare

summer dress allows

you

to

wear

it

day or night.

Q)J

TRAVEL LIGHT. When you

as what you wear after you together.

You

will

appear

arrive.

stylish

travel,

what you wear getting there

When en and not

route,

a jacket

overly casual.

is

The

is

as important

— rather

like

a casual

summer day

suit

in

the

office).

Draped over a strappy summer dress,

it

keeps you warm on

key to pulling your look

breezy

summer nights. A bathing

continue to

up. Try

wrapping a large cotton scarf around the waist to wear for a walk on the beach,

jacket

will

serve you throughout the weekend. With long shorts or pants to match, things up

Fridays

(also

it

dresses

suitable for casual

or

suit is usually

a must, but needs

some sort of cover-

wear your swimsuit comfortably with drawstring pants and make a splash

pool party. And, of course, shorts with a simple top

is

at

a

everyday weekend wear.

J

Inexpensive water-resistant

watch

J Sun

hat

J Funky-chunky jewelry J Sandals J Sandals

for bathing-suit

occasions

J

Colorful ballet slippers

or mules for casual parties

J Strappy sandals — high for night,

low for day

J Leather pumps

for

more proper occasions

J Sunglasses J

Big plastic earrings

J

Plastic, papier

mache,

glass beads

J Bold

cuffs, collars,

J Tote

in

pendants

canvas, straw,

or nylon

J Small

colorful

J Decorative

handbag

hair clips

J Sundress J Great bathing One

of the best parts about

summer

dress-up

is

on expensive accessories. And because the fun accessories move in and out of style as rapidlj as afternoon thunderstorms mo\t- across the skv. it is best not to invest too heavily. Pick a sturdy straw

bag that

is

neither too

sporty nor too dressy and a colorfast tote bag thai resists water and sand. Look for ethnic or bright heads in glass or plastic.

U 90

Chic Simple

cover-up

nol feeling

forced to blow the budget

suit with

J White pants and shorts J

Colorful tops

so vies

Splish Splash **

J To dress up

for

a

pool party, wear a great pair of sandals

or mules, fun earrings or plastic

Pangles, a dramatic

From the moment Dorothy

sun hat and a Give

colorful bag.

Lamour kept house for Bob

Hope and Bmg Crosby on yourself a manicure

and pedicure, and

a South Sea island 1

although you

may

wearing a sarong, i

little lip

the

this

nakup, sultry

.1

in

940 film Road to Singapore

color

can

way of dressing was

adopted by American

women. Today

it

is

seen at

suburban poolsides or on city streets, yet

it

always

makes one think of toes in the sand

and palm trees.

«7

92

Chic Simple

;.:.

LIQUID DRESSING Lounging around a pool it

in

style requires

more than wearing a great-looking bathing

requires a great looking cover-up. Besides,

out of a pool and into a cover-up

pareo

is

chests, letting

to

them

women feel more comfortable popping

—tying on a pareo instead

a long rectangle of fabric that originated

aged by missionaries

skirts

most

in

to their

of

Polynesia,

cover their nakedness, Back then

fall

suit;

donning a beach

jacket.

The

where natives were encour-

women tied

pareos around

their

knees or below. Today we generally use pareos as

over swimsuits. Or toss on a sundress

— much

H

more charming than a muumuu.

M

B

SUN STROKE Smoothing on sunblock should become a part of your everyday beauty routine, especially in summer. To save time,

sunblock,

Smooth

try

one

lotion or

outward on your cheeks, sensitive areas.

of the products that include color

Today

it

and function as both foundation and

cream away from the center of your face, upward on your forehead,

chin,

is

and neck. And remember the backs

possible, with chemical peels

blemishes, wrinkles, and age spots from the face, but a

of your hands, ultra-sun-

and cosmetic

woman's age

still

H

surgery, to

shows

in

remove

her hands.

N

Dinghy to Rooftop WHITE PANTS With a black T-shirt,

In

each season one piece

and dark

sandals,

glasses, these white

of clothing stands out as

pants take on all the

a

shortcut to

style.

mysterious glamour

In

of Jackie

we

summer,

choose

Onassis

on a summer outing on the Greek island

white pants. Not super-

ot Skorpios.

model

paint-ons

that

loafers, at

movement

restrict

or

sible

constrict our last meal,

but easy-fitting pants

in

fabrics that range from

pique

crisp silk

to

denim,

shantung, or cotton

with stretch. They

may

have elastic waists or

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS neat bands, pleats,

flat fronts or

narrow or roomy

legs. Only

two things are

for sure:

They can take

you nearly anywhere, and they

will

show

dirt

— both

good reasons to have two pairs instead of only one.

Or add

Dalmatian-spotted

(a -

A scooped neckline is flattering and

flirtatious.

Try red sandals

for the Fourth of July, white

shoes for a yacht party.

deck

and

once sensurprising.

Yacht to Penthouse <Q»

A simple tank top is

a

little

dressier

when worked up in

a metallic

knit.

©

More metallic accessories add festive detail.

\i

if

^

\

£«

«%

Summer is a time when what

we wear can be a bit

more playful, it's

especially

party time.

bag

is

r

if

A decorative

an easy way to add

some punch.

A floral silk blouse is

an elegant summer

favorite that

also

can

be worn open

as a jacket over a tank top.

sum me



— ——

— ——

i'

Smokin The

mood

is

relaxed and upbeat. Guests hope

shoes and

lo kick off their

listen to the

sounds

unless

succulent

Dress for a party. Pan of entertaining

special than

you do during

the rest of your cvei \da\

—especially

your work

And foods are And there's

part of a colorful, eclectic mix.

—often

fresh

from

a local garden.

corn on the cob or wrestling with

host, feel free to dress a

your job to

set

the

basics that will give

Rule #1: Be relaxed.

festive,

like

If

you're not. then your guesis won't

Plan well, and prepare as

ever there was

you cook,

it's

around the

Keep

it

a

the

time

when

much

.is

possible in advance.

people don't

summer, but keep

grill only.

(

a

)thei wise

it

mind

to a

it

wati lmii;

minimum

can git too hot. Rule #2:

simple. This goes lor food, clothing,

and the

table.

Marvin Gaye

What's

.

Going On .

.

s.iiidals.

i

Beach Samba .

.

Upon a Summertime .

.

Al

Green



1

.

Wrap: A large

Put a

Various Artists

1959-64 Ska's the Call

Me

Limit, vol.

1

The kettle-shaped charcoal-burning barbecue grill,

first

designed by

George Stephen in 1951 as a result of his frustration with the inadequacies of conventional

barbecue grills, soon became an American backyard

Since then, Weber-Stephen Products Co. has expanded calling to include

its

icon.

backyard

gas grills, which prompts the sometimes heated debate

among backyard chefs as to which means of grilling is preferable. Convenience or taste? Weber-Stephen remains committed to satisfying both.

96

(

your wardrobe the

si.ul

Spell on You

Barry White— Can't Get

Enough

Nina Simone

all,

it

is

a buffet birthdaj

oomph

that

Big

hoop

makes

it

eat rings, colorful

beads and bangles, fun faux. bold. Dress: Long,

Driftin'

Blossom Dearie— Once

is

backyard barbecue, there are a few

olor, pattei n. |ewelr\:

Rock in' £

Drifters

a

it

shantung, cotton with stretch, linen. Shoes: Mules, strappv

Connie Francis

The

extra special. After

mood. Whethei

the

palazzo, bright colors, patterns, white jeans. Fabrics: Silk

Souvenirs

Astrud Gilberto

little

If you're

life.

lops: Halter, tank, off the shoulder. Pants: Capri,

SOUNDTRACKS *

life

Entertaining should not look or feel like work.

dinner indoors or

If

creating a fun

atmosphere by looking more

steamed

lie.

is

Rule #3:

around the Weber grill. Even out line china takes a break from the dining table

lobster to cut through anv airs of formality. Entertaining

nothing

attractive.

of Marvin Gaye while drinking a (hilled margarita

it's

Nothing too elaborate, but everything

<>i

a

florals.

sweater over bare shoulders.

mm Summer

afternoon

.

.

the two most beautiful words in the English language.

59

HENRY JAMES

SIMPLE SUMMER MENU

SOUP

Roasted Mixed Vegetables*

Summer

Borscht*

SALAD Arugula Salad with Mango and Blue Cheese*

4 shallots

1

large red onion, sliced, or

1

red

1

yellow squash, sliced

1

zucchini sliced diagonally,

bell

pepper, sliced

if

desired

2 cups cherry tomatoes

4-8 cloves garlic, unpeeled

MAIN COURSE

1

Grilled Steak with Bourbon,

Balsamic Vinegar, and Fresh Ginger Marinade*

1

1

light

2 tablespoons fresh gingerroot, /2

1.

finely

chopped

1.

'

Mix ingredients, add 2-pound steak, and

refriger-

^ )

/

/4

Corn with Cayenne Butter*

pound unsalted

Preheat oven to all

400

°

F.

in

a baking pan and bake for about

from the oven and place

in

a serving dish.

DESSERT Peach Blueberry Crunch*

butter

Cream

juice of 2 limes

Iced Coffee

SUMMER DRINKS

salt

1.

Melt the butter over low heat

2.

Add

in

a small saucepan.

4. Baste and turn occasionally

until

corn

is

Margaritas, South Sides Sangria

White Wine Spritzers

cayenne and lime juice and mix well.

3. Brush the butter on the corn and place on

grill.

cooked,

SPARKLING WINES Prosecco Bonnie Doone Vin Glacier

about 12 minutes. 5. Salt to taste.

*RECIPE

IN

1

When finished cooking, remove vegetables

Vanilla Ice

the

oil

ingredients, except for the balsamic vinegar,

1-2 tablespoons cayenne pepper 8 ears corn, husked

v

olive

Sprinkle with balsamic vinegar.

ate overnight.

1

tablespoon

together

teaspoon black pepper

Grilled

black pepper

/4 teaspoon

2. Put

3. I

or rosemary

brown sugar

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1

basil,

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

3 tablespoons bourbon 2 tablespoons

teaspoon dried thyme,

V4-V2 teaspoon kosher salt

CHIC SIMPLE: COOKING

hour.

Dancing, Romancing A short slip dress in

a colorful

embroidered

works

for

silk

a day

wedding (you may

need a wrap

(Q) Gold acces-

for

sories look

ceremony or

especially regal

weather) and a

against brown.

special date or cocktail party.

lorsare •

>gantand

slimming. They bring focus to

your face and

I

accessories.

r-~i\

Chocolate brown

and midnight blue are classic alternatives to black,

I

}

Pick an embroidered slip dress and add touches of metallic accessories for cocktail parties, benefits,

98

C

museum

and festive birthday celebrations.

A

longer dress looks sleek and elegant. Accessories

shine against the dark tone, determining where this

dress

will

—dinner, a concert, or the ballet.

go

Palm Springs, The Hamptons In

the 1950s,

A simple white

pants tapered to

T dresses up

the mid-calf

became a

with

popular

a dramatic

necklace.

summer style. They were known as Capri pants,

named after the Italian

island

resort

where

Emilio Pucci

was

inspired to create

them.

Pants with * "

shimmer and sheen and, in this

case,

beads to add pizzazz to a

wardrobe.

A change of shoes for

a change of

occasion: Mules for cocktails, flats for

Summer

chic:

silk

blouse untucked, light

cookout.

shantung Capri pants and

all in

blues brilliant

perked up by a sunny patterned

in

summer

silk scarf.

Beaded

silk

pants

will give

you the richest look this

side of an Eastern harem, even

when accessorized

with a cotton T-shirt and simple thong sandals.

99

s

it

nun er (•r§

If

you cannot

find

a slip to match your skin tone,

consider having one made, or try dyeing a white one. But with so

many sheer dresses on the market,

even

and plus-size

petite

specialty clothing stores

slips are

now available in

and catalogs.

r

7f

A sheer garment over in

opaque one

creates a look that

H

You choose what reveal

luring, shifting layers ol

wisp teasing glimpses

HELP! What

lias

age

niatici oui

seduction, will-o'-the-

being si.uk

ol

happened oi

no supposed we are

u> fashion that

|>li\si(|iu'

emperoi

NAKED!

new

crowd of strangers? Though the magazines and runways seem to think nothing ol making your tan lines the new fashion accessory, women since Salome have been utilizing the in play the

mystery and intrigue

ol

's

sheerness.

(

lothes in a

he challenge

I

is

to

learn to handle sheerness discreedy. Proper undergar-

ments suit,

an-,

of course, one wa\ of doing

an opaque chiffon

only glimpsed through view.

There

the use of

is

that.

slip, a lovely lace .1

A

wisp) body-

brassiere that

is

sheet blouse, not put holdh on

an intriguing sexiness that

nude

little

is

a<

hieved with

Under hue,

"illusion" linings.

organza, and devore velvet,

slips

chiffon,

or camisoles

oi

chiffon that closely match your skin, attached to the dress

or loose, are the insurance you need to relax and enjoy the evening in a tantalizing outfit. skirts are

hips, in

worn with longer

which case the

legs are in

shape

is

seductive yet demure.

to

Sometimes chiffon

jackets that cover well past the

woman must

handle

the-

decide whether he:

shcei ness.

How

sheer

is

The rule of thumb is, the more formal the more appropriate that the translucent become transparent. And if you do dress to have your high beams

(Q) Layering one diaphanous color over

another creates

too sheer?

a shimmering

affair the

quality.

blazing, just don't be

dismayed

at

all

the dumb-struck

bucks transfixed. Of course, that could be the intention.

to

and what not

to.

• •Maybe the naked truth but

I

like a bit of chiffon here

is

glorious,

and

there.

^9

ELSIE JANIS



wrap can e

as

flirtatious it

moves

with your

every gesture.

Fresh when we literati) strip down for our makeup, Fragrance, and grooming

summer, action,

In

become

time

.1

integral

blushers,

ishes,

color schemes.

ma)

cosmetics

accessories.

1

he only

our skin tones. And speaking

chlorine.

Wear

if we spend

pol-

time

We hum in

avoid

the sun or

you frequent

il

beyond

color

real

color:

oi

lois ol

sun hat, and

a

nail

and eye shadows arc pari ol out When we wear wlhic 01 black, our

provide

coloring our hair

Lipsticks,

a

in

swimming

up on a chlorine-removing shampoo (a one \ou color your hair) and conditioner.

siock

pool,

color-sale

il

HAVE HAPPY FEET.

'here's

jlj

no

SMELL BETTER THAN BUG SPRAY.

In

summer,

we seek lighter scents.

I

gams.St.n! the summei polish,

.\

buy a bottle for tou

deningand

1

lot,

1

remove calluses

show

off.

Defuzz 1

rine,

and

and

fron

tl

noisturizer to

salt water.

If

1

on

.

it<

lv

aftei

'n

you are

a

nice

i

md

heels,

which sandals and mules

h area by shaving, using a depilatory, or

combat the

drying effects of

summer

1,

1.

;

m, lime, or grapefruit

may Pe sprayed on strategically to mix with

heat, chlo-

characterize what

we

like

best about

summer— the deliciously down-to-earth,

carefree scents of nature. Spray colognes are fun to spntz on throughout the day, as they are less ever,

heavy than full-strength perfumes. Fragrance will

cover a whiff of sweat, so

now is the

in

appearance,

your deodorant or antiperspirant. And

exfoliate your skin.

Wash hands

have herbal and

your legs are very pale or not smooth it,

i

the earthy scent of freshly cut grass, moss, and ferns. These choice fragrances

likely to b<

\

consider using a self-tanner. Before using immecli.

When you choose

-

11

are hardest

will

i

manicure and

I

stone

lee r

\

using to keep your palms from absorbing stain.

outdoors

in

how-

best time to check the efficiency of

many

citrus fragrances of their

not,

of today's natural

own so

if

bug

repellents

you are planning on being

a buggy area, take time to seek out a repellent you enjoy smelling.

.,

___

summer beauty & fragrance fri

d



W

M m•

,

• • The two basic items necessary to sustain life are sunshine and coconut milk DUSTIN HOFFMAN,

FAKE

IT.

When we were an agrarian society,

Midnight Cowboy

m

was a

having a tan

jGl

sign of

PAINT A

SUMMER

FACE.

First

apply sunblock, even on cloudy days.

i

being a

common

membership those

who

in

lack

laborer. During the Industrial Revolution,

the leisure class.

knowledge

sun and the glow

it

still

Now

bake

that

in

are

in

the sun. But

casts. Liquid tanners,

bronzing sticks, and powders are just

we

a tan betrayed

Then

lightly

dust a bronzing powder

the easiest

way

It

many

be applied over foundation

cream bronzers,

of us

still

crave the

tinted moisturizers,

some of the ways you can

fake

it

good.

skin tone, stay with textures.

over your face with a large, soft brush.

to look sun-kissed

the information age, only

is

all

if

needed.

warm browns,

not

because as powder

When

choosing the

A little more can be used on the cheeks,

shimmery brown shadow applied

definition. In

Citrus perfume appeals to extroverts.

the summer,

lips

is light

and can

right color for

your

red-mahogany tones, and look for sheer

those areas where the sun usually tans or burns soft,

it

look great

to lids.

when

A

nose, forehead, and chin first.

little-

You may want

black mascara

they're coated with a

to try a

will

give

generous

topping of tinted gloss. Warm, pink-brown tones create a natural look.

chapter

fivt

The moment

of

change,

after the languor of

those forgotten afternoons, The pace quick-

ens

—there's a sense

generations before us

of

being

alive,

as

if

the

who raced against the

fcjSt-.

'M

mm Autumn... makes a double demand. It

asks that

we prepare

for the future... But it also asks that

we

learn to let go

to



acknowledge

Wthe beauty of spareness. ^} BONARO

W.

OVERSTREET,

"Mists and Mellow Fruitfulness"

jJKT

BAG

ACCESSORIES

JACKET

BAG

Jlllff

your

closet

AUTUMN

BREAK

IN

NEW

(Jjjj)

grasp the toe

PUMP UP YOUR PUMPS. Do they need

new

soles or heel

caps? Polishing? Do the edges of the soles

need reblacking?

forth gently. Put

rug. then

shoes on and

walk: First

on a

on a harder surface. Always wear

stockings or socks

have stitching coming loose, perhaps your shoe repair shop

still

feel

when breaking in shoes.

If

they

snug, ask your shoe repairman to stretch

them. Or dip stockings or lightweight socks half-alcohol, half-water solution, out, put

them

socks are

dry.

shoes than a I

shoe and bend back and

If

they are only scuffed or soiled or

can work wonders.

SHOES

of the

SHOES. Before wearing,

on,

is

a

squeeze them

and wear the shoes

This

in

harder on the

regular break-in but

until

the

lining of

the

it's

effective.

» b We brought nothing into the world,

and

certain that

it is

we can

carry nothing out.^5 THE BIBLE

A new belt is one of the

-.

quickest

AUTUMN BASICS

ways to update

a suit or pantsuit.

AUTUMN OCCASIONS Labor Day.

So \\

\\

MIA DO

I

II

\\

I

l()

BECIN

EARING STOCKINGS \GAIN?

While

it

often stays

Back

.

Back to work.

.

school.

to

Harvest time.

.

.

.

.

.

State fairs.

.

Tailgate

School

parties.

meetings.

.

.

.

warm

through the end of October,

Dining out.

.

Art openings.

.

.

.

Cocktail

propriety dictates thai you wear stockings to work or for dressy

parties.

.

.

Dinner parties.

.

.

Business

events immediately after Labor

Day

— unless von are wearing

conferences.

.

.

Halloween.

.

.

Theater.

.

strappy evening sandals.

Weekends can

lie

more

casual.

Yom

Kippur...

Thanksgiving...



elements of style

H

I've

a

known anyone yet who doesn't suffer certain restlessness when autumn rolls never

around... We're

eii>hl

al

anything

is

years old again

possible.

and

55

SUE GRAFTON, "Long Gone"

U

M

U

hen the sun hangs lowei casts longer

nature

in

N

the sk\ and

shadows, the rich colors

intensify.

The

bright

oi

summer

melody of our wardrobe looks out of harwith nature's new tune. And if we're not paving attention we won't be prepared for a sudden nip in the air, when we need to reach for our warmer coverings. But even in places that remain warm throughout the fall months, the sartorial code to pack away our

mony

summer for a

fancies remains true.

deeper color

palette.

On

We now

cue, our eye

is

read)

reach for the earthy

tones of wine reds, forest and moss greens, cadet blues,

108

i

pumpkin, rust, and aubergine. It's when the multicolor hues of weeds echo nature itself, ["hese are the colors of harvest time-, of the foods and chinks we think of when 1

days grow shorter and the sun turns afternoons into gold.

Yet

it

is

impossible not

neutrals in autumn:

The

easier to dress

(

in

be drawn back to

versatility ol black,

make it and mean less drain on warm up these l>asi s with gray will

to

foi

busy

brown, and

fall

schedules

the pocketbook. But blouses, sweaters,

we can

and jackets

earthy shades. Adding metallic bronze and copper

in fabrics, leather,

night, as metallics

or jewelry

add

light



will cast a rich

glow for

wherever they are used.

Originally

created

for sailors, the

peacoat

became everyday wear in the 1 920s. In

thanks to Coco Chanel. Today

cold weather,

become

turtlenecks

a wardrobe must.

In

addition to warmth,

they always provide

a clean

line

when

wom under an open-collared coat.

(D)

Simplify

life

by colorcoordinating

accessories.

Brown

is

more casual than black.

can be found

in

cashmere and

fabrics

in

it

as luxurious as

a variety of colors.

autumn texture and fabric '.

A

wwam <*'.,* iKi

.-•

1

m

Layers of Meaning

elements of style

A classic black leather jacket



has

Toughness

attitude without

being intimidating.

doesn \ have

come

to

a pin-

in

stripe suit.U DIANNE FEINSTEIN

"^

about suits

is

being

able to wear the

pieces

in

a variety

of ways. Just

remember to have pieces cleaned together or

age

they'll

differently.

and

bring out

when

your all

body

clothing,

look forward to putting on

substantial

your straw tote

After the heat of

wants to reject

T~~you The great thing

fall.

summer,

4

Pack away

abrics are the most wonderful

part of

.

garments again. There are

more choices for dressing up, from the basics of smooth gabardines to nubbv woolens and knits. The key is being smart lots

the leather.

about layering

—with

—learn

to juxtapose tex-

smooth silks played against wiry wools or cashmere against leather. Start with wool blends and work your way to all-wool as the season cools down. Add silk blouses and sweaters until the therture

mometer out

the

mohair.

do

is

dips below freezing, then pull

wool,

cashmere, angora, and

What blended

fabrics

and

knits

help you pull off the transition

from Indian summer

to

cold weather.

m

a lit iimn

World Turns

As the here I

is

period of time between the

a fickle

seasons during which we need our outfits

handle the sometimes tumultuous tions

T"«

of"

like

the

you can

(and

You may he surprised less fabric

is

by the hoi

will will what mav autumn wardrobe.

perfecl

weight seasonless fabrics staples

autumn followed

summer

afternoons of Indian

seem

transi-

the weather. For those unprepai ed, the

cool mornings of

wise

i<>

in

will

in

line

is

also

and lightweight [fyou think

ol

renowned

take d\e beautifully,

and

lor being

wool as hot and

you (lout know these wools. The) breathe, retain their shape.

resist

itchy,

wrinkles,

You can sleep

wear year-round.

lored garments in these- wools will he your best friends.

to)



a lightly

\

best season-

woven

line

wool



the

Similarly,

Pacific

Tasmania!)

Ocean south of

a

[here

10-hour

is

flight in a pair of

a price for this

worth n

amazing

lor clothes that

lasinanian-wool trousers

versatility,

von nevei wain

hut to

it

may be

pack away.

and wool, and mixing these with Lycra spandex and rayon, crepeLayering garments

ol

silk,

cotton,

textured wool, or lightweight kniis.

through

will

transiiion.il times ol \ear in urn

also get

umpled

you

style.

i^Fall is my favorite season Los Angeles, watching the birds change color and fall from the trees... J J DAVID LETTERMAN

12 Chic Simple



burrow-

little

dark colors are wardrobe

to learn that the vei

in

ing carnivorous marsupials

— now-extinct

and walk into youi hotel looking neai as a pin. Naturally, in the heat of Septembei and early October, loosely tai-

when temperatures drop.

from an island

devils

Light-

bounces hack from all kinds of routine abuse is thin enough to wear on the hottest summer thus, vet remains a favorite

its

other-

that

wool,

for

on

want

wool. Super 100s

known

Australia

N

N

A dress with matching coat

is

a

dressier version of ff

the traditional

In

conservative

suit,

businesses, a but offers appealpantsuit

may be

ing possibilities.

something

women

can wear only on casual Friday.

It

not

only offers comfort

but can also

be

professional-looking

when well tailored in

a fine men's

suiting fabric, like this

glen plaid wool

gabardine.

IfaQ)

^

lm

Don

t

FO

WEAR

IF

WEATHER

hack

to

your sundresses and shorts. Rather, wear

revert

clothes in lighter fabrics thai

long black rayon skin

and

IS

still

UNSEASONABLE HOT?

adhere

to fall colors, like a

a lightweight sweater set.

sider Layering a sleeveless top

under a lightweight

Or con-

suit jacket.

faQ]

I

\\l

in

GOING ON

thi

OiiU

if

80s.

Inii

Can

you want

residents

change

SINESS

HI

\

to

I

look

colors gel darker

summer garments

TO

Mil

SOI

III.

Till

II

MP1 RATI

HI

IS

wear my simmer clothes?

stili

their

Mill'

liL <

a tourist.

The well-traveled know how

local

wardrobe colors each season. Fabrics remain lightweight,

and more autumnal. Summer

like colorful floral

\\

bites

sundresses and pique

and other

-mh

are

distinctly

packed away.

Cheeky and Bright Eye summer makeup and hair-care minimum, it's often difficult to (onus time for more get up to speed when serious makeup in autumn. It helps if you

Iter

paring your

routines to the

the

When

it

gather the tools and products you weed daily

And if you spend do the same with your evening (osmetics. Gently clean your brushes with shampoo and warm water. Rinse well and smooth hairs into place, then let airdry. With the earthy and darker colors of fall clothing, you will probably want makeup in more subdued colors than you wore in summer. Lipsticks and blushes in burgundy, red, and brown shades coordinate well with shadows in together

in a tray

many evenings

i

or basket to review.

out,

brown and gold

families.

II

you have

a tan. wait until

fades before adjusting the color of your foundation.

it

the

swimming season has ended, remember

make an appointment

to

che<

k

the condition ol

your hairdresser to your hair and have a shape-up with

is a good time to discuss ideas for hair color sine your hairstyle is one you can manage make and on your own in the l>us\ days ahead. Have your stylist show you some ways 10 dress up your hair for evening. If the soft citrusy fragrances of summer feel too light, some denser, richer, and exotic scents. They are u heady, warm, and sophisticated, which complement the

cut.

This lo

\

heavier

clothing

of the

fall

and winter seasons.

autumn beauty and fragrance

£6 No

summer beauty hath such

spring, nor

As

I

have seen in one autumnal JOHN DONNE,

FACE A.M. TO P.M.

']tf

Fall is

the time of year

when we

running from one kind of event to another. Knowing

dress up your

makeup

for

pad,

off

2.

Blend

surface

evenings on the run can be

powder and

dull-looking

ourselves

how to freshen up and helpful.

handy to have smaller versions of your makeup and tools

Wipe

find

makeup

in

It

may be

a travel bag,

}.

with a moist cotton

Use a wide, flat foundation brush to apply foundation where needed. lightly

with a dry latex

wedge.

3.

Brush on loose powder

all

over.

face.

grace.

^

"The Autumnal" 4.

Apply blush to the apples of your cheeks.

5.

clean up eye makeup, and press loose powder

eyes and nose.

6.

in

mascara.

10.

Apply

lip

to

of the

Fade out edges and smudge the

pencil

lid

at the

7.

Apply a

pencil. 8. Recurl lashes. 9.

color

wedge

the area around your

inward with your finger or a sponge-tip applicator.

shimmery shadow over the

latex

base

Define the outer corners of the

lashes, using a soft lining pencil. line

Use a

and top with gloss

for

neutral,

Add a coat

of

evening shine.



September

...

October

%/) Wearing a

women's suit

in

a men's suiting fabric like

may seem

we are trying

hard to dress

men. Yet

The wrap dress

like

pairing

was made famous

it

with a matching

by designer

dress

VonFurstei'i

is

distinctly

20 years

feminine.

c

i

and was ra

a of

new gen>

i

admirers who in its

colorful sigi

ouette

The wrap helps to define the waist

and

bustline.

fQ) Accessorizing patterns is

easy. Just pick a color

and match

here '

T^

that

something about putting on a dress makes a woman feel special. Whether she is

wears a dress to a luncheon, a shower, or a din-

ner, she often feels

even

on

a dress

is

Chic!-

.mi-

But by

far the best

that its so easy.

to coordinate.

116

sexv.

more feminine and sometimes

No jackets,

allows lor sories

more transformations that large patterns will

think floral

Hindenburg

—so

Animal prints add a certain

blouses, or sweaters

suiting patterns can

simple pattern

events.

with a change of acces-

than a dress covered with a decorative pattern.

Remember

thing about putting

A solid-color dress or a quiet,

it.

A

go

dress captures a

to

slv

make you look

larger

approach with caution. lun. and traditional men's

and other sober make it memorable.

the office

moment,

so

November /?^D ecember sfe-,

. .

A coatd ress

is

a tailored

alternative to the suit for

business.

A white silk

shirt feels

good

against the skin

and

frames the face.

Remove the shirt and add a necklace to dress things up.

A sumptuous tweed dress with a body-hugging cut combines luxury

and sportiness and

is all

female.

A good choice for a charity lunch.

• •A woman's its

dress should be like a barbed-wire fenee: serving

purpose without obstructing the view. SOPHIA LOREN

%%

A Lifetime of Outfits THE HE It

The Gucci bamboohandled bag has endured as an

emblem

symbol when

of chic

photographed

generations,

for

became a rec-

ognizable status

frequently

the

on

arm of

Princess Diana.

A boxy bag with a short handle, it

is

often quilted

and always dangles metallic letters that spell

out the Dior

name.

44 In

fashion

it's

good not

to

have too

many

principles.

NES DE LA FRESSANGE

Acosmopolit.ii

i

bag from Hermes,

named for Grace Kelly.

A detachable

strap allows this truly

to

elegant tote

do doubli TheVuittonbag,

as a shoulder bag. a direct descendant of luggage that

was once

carried only

m

first

class,

remains a touring status symbol.

118

i

^

autumn

One Great Bag Relaxed. Functional.

Carries stuff

work

and

perhaps a

change of clothes.

Leather

is

heavier, but

wears better than nylon.

w

hat you wear with your dress clothes is as important as the actual clothing. Your choice

of shoes and bag can determine overall

style,

while decoding a mission. (And no, your bag

and shoes don't have Is

to

match

in color, just in attitude.)

your bag a hand-held jeweled minaudiere that can com-

pete with the best of jewelry?

Or

is

it

large

and sturdy

enough

to

transport your office essentials?

finest of leather

ment

and

a recognizable design,

that signals to sales clerks to be all the

Or

Is

an

it

the

invest-

more

solic-

throwaway trend meant only to last through one season? A bag can simply pull an outfit together, or destroy it. A carefully chosen tote, handbag, and evening purse can see you through a lifetime of outfits. itous?

a

Wha-

AM | PM •

A

M • PM •

AM • PM •

A

M •

PM •

A

M •

P

M •

A

M •

PM •

lofa li

1

(Q)

opposing

and

Light, dark,

medium gray

come

iwith

tolifi

silver, crystal,

or diamond

accessories.

Office to c<

Replace sensible top with special top and ditch the jacket;

wear sheer

stockings with

high-heeled

shoes;

pull

out of

your tote your small evening bag;

add some lip color and fragrance.

A 1

20

CI

'

iii

'H i

i|

*

Y

H

A

M •

P

M •

AM©

P

M •

AM*

P

M •

A

M •

P

M • AM •

P

M •

M •

A

P

M • AM •

P

M •

AM

American designer Bill

Blass has perfected

the art of American

sportswear with evening ensembles that

combine sweater

sets with

beaded

Skirts or full-blown

A sweater set in a silk knit or

taffeta ball

cashmere can carry you

skirts-

winning combinations

through most day-to-evening

for cocktail

and

birth-

functions looking feminine

day parties, rehearsal

and pulled together.

dinners,

and holiday

celebrations.

the autumn, perhaps

Tn a

woman needs

more than any other time of year,

functional clothes to take her through

work, meetings, presentations, and



—without

a

trip

home on to cocktails, dinner, or the theater. Even women who do not work at a career outside the home are often busy organizing benefits, volunteering, or attending

school or social functions that leave It's

them too busy

to

change.

smart to have clothes that work as hard as vou do. Versatile

clothing

is

A

the key.

suit, for

example, takes

to a glittering

Lurex sweater top for an evening at the theater. Exchange pumps and daytime handbag for mules and an evening bag

and



voila!

pantsuit night.

A charming

— perfect by

Exchange

flat

Let rich fabrics like

The way you

pull

it

day

sweater set can



to

shoes for

silk, satin,

together

make

the

jump from

topping off a sequined

pumps and add

skirt

by

jeweled earrings.

or cashmere signal a special time. is

what personal

style

is all

about.



tai

autumn accessories utumn

A

is

the most dangerous shoe season of

Shoes made

I^L

for fall's tweeds,

good

all.

suits, velvets,

essence,

its

—only

neckline

16th of an inch.

1

cleavage in a conservative office or

bad

No

at a

considered

shape determines longevity:

black pumps, an evening shoe, and a pair or two of Hat

date a shoe. The color black serves as an understated note

^^



shoes

—well-made

evenings

loafers

for

home. Remember,

at

day,

velvet

too, there

is

slippers

for

such a thing

.is

an overly sexy shoe. Showing toe cleavage, unlike showing breast cleavage,

A black

I. ii

like satin

H

or

is

a matter of lowering

.1

shoe's

vamp



in

taste.

matter whal your wardrobe color scheme,

black leather tage

in

is

th.u

it

pump

remains

worth the extra will

wardrobe

classic

basic.

Its

tin-

advan-

looks businesslike as well as elegant Heel

whatever you choose

pumps

a

cost.

to

It's

the fashion element that can

wear above.

With the

walk you through

right

i

A

simple paii

is

are, youi black leather

a variety

of occasions with a

well-turned ankle, an elongated leg, and added inches.

ii

silk

dresses up the stiletto.

A well -polished leather pump with a sensible heel

can

combine comfort with professionalism

and

CI

Showing toe is

and little black dresses are the shoes of dreams ^k dreams with high heels. Before you indulge. J 1 however, plan a shoe wardrobe for your special occasions. Every woman probably needs a pair of good /

122

funeral

style.

dressy

GOOD BLACK PUMPS You can

a gentleman by

shoes, and you can

his

a

tell

lady

by

tell

good black

her

pumps. She can wear them night or day, rain or shine, for

dress or everyday. They are her power shoes.

If

she didn't

pay too much for them, she

may

have paid enough.

not

The best shoes are worth the

wear

price because you can

them more. You are paying quality

materials

and

for

con-

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS They probably go

struction.

Velvet slippers are

a great way

to

suits

in

the

and

dresses

your wardrobe. For

that reason, consider invest-

ing in black crocodile or

alli-

festive

when entertaining at

half

make

your casual clothes

appear more

with

gator pumps. They are

made

home. to last— and they are, simply

put,

something very special.

a She came

into

the bar of the Ritz

wearing a knee-length tweed skirt, a twinset, and moccasins and



in

a time when everyone

else

was tailed up

Dior's

in

New Look,

she stopped

traffic. +)+}

BILL BLASS, describing C. Z. Guest n Paris in the '50s

autumn little

luxury, to mis-paraphrase Diana

Vreeland,

is

like

paprika



adds a

it

sensual spice to your wardrobe. But

luxury

mere

is

very personal

sweater,

—a

cash-

a perfectly fitted

a pair of buttery-soft leather pants, an

suit,

afternoon nap, a Saturday to oneself these can qualify. Luxury

falls



all

of

into different

categories: a beautiful fountain pen, an Italian

sports car, the appreciation of beautiful handi-

work, a great painting, an over-the-top beaded dress.

Whatever it

since only you

is,

luxury

is

highly subjective,

know your own

sinful pleasures.

Savvy shoppers recognize the luxury of vintage clothing.

made than today.

Much

vintage fashion

is

better

the off-the-rack clothes available

Often haute-couture clothes bought

at

auction are bargains compared to the original price. r

3) The beauty of vintage shops

is

discovering

quality clothes that are

unique

for

a fraction

of

the cost of a comparable

new item. These pieces might not be basics, but they add enormous style to one's wardrobe.

Look

for jewel-trimmed sweaters,

a satin evening coat, crocodile handbags, out-

rageous costume jewelry, decorative buttons,

and extravagant evening dresses. Great finds are hand-embroidered and finely beaded tops. Avoid furs, which tend not to age well, and check for stains and moth holes. Caution:

A

little

vintage goes a long way.

Mix with your more contemporary

clothes.





autumn

Luxurious (Q) Mixing

rich velvets

with sparkling metallic knits livens

up even the most simple of evening

separates

Have

it

both

—a cozy

ways

cardigan and

a sexy tank,

for

when the night heats up.

Ml VELVETS

\l!l

MIDI

III

i

No, do<

\l ,?

(,)l

The

at nil.

plushest \rl\ ets -i\Y.

in

rayon

evening. \

elvets

often u

— are

worn

generally (

lotton

and nil

\

elours.

added

stretch fibers,

be

\\

"in

for

ila\

ma)

hi

night.

',,-.;

Check velvets for

the "low-

lights"

—the

color at the

base

of the fabric

and match accessories to

126

it.

Chic:

L.L

lULXUrV

a cashmere sweater.

is

illXIiriOUS

a cashmere T-shirt

is

cashmere socks.

is

A velvet blazer can become a winter wardrobe essential looking great

over casual

luxurious indulgence

A i^L

doesn'l

^^ f ^^

effort

/

ning

suit

the

one puts

into

building a practical

»

i

negate

An

wardrobe.

eve-

hacking

or a classic

jacket in velvet or a sweater

and

pants of cashmere, another lux-

ury fabric with a thick,

soft pile,

can be a valuable

The

asset.

feel

of these fabrics (and the cost)

is

a luxury but their wide spec-

trum of wearability helps make

them worthwhile additions to closet. Velvet and cashmere are equally at home

your

paired

The

with

nap enables a

its

denim.

or

silk

interesting deepness of velvet suit to

take the strong colors of a print scarf or the softness of a

silk

white or ivory fringed

For

silk scarf.

down,

dressing

velvet

makes an elegant marriage with wool, cashmere, and gabardine. Play off the different-textured leathers of gloves, boots,

and

bag to add a more casual

feel.

Again the to

wear

ways

versatility

this

— makes

investment,

embrace

will

—the

outfit it

and

a

in

ability

myriad

worthwhile its

make you

sensual feel well

dressed no matter where you are.

knit

pants, or a short satin slipdress.

autumn 'w) Python

is

the

skin of choice for

garments with a fashion edge.

It

is

supple and smooth,

and has a sheen of

elegance when

worn over all

black.

KThe wilderness

has a fashion code

as rigid as

* •

"1 /

:

/

the chicest i

neighborhood in

New

1

York. jj 1*

CLAUDIA SHEAR, Blown Sideways Through

Life

128 Chic Simple

L.L

Stripes

Sinful

can

brighten

up

Suede has

jr*

for

a wardrobe.

and bold

rugged (ask any

worked

cowboy! or

give you

more shape.

in

cotton for big-

game hunters who

soft

needed a coat durable

adding a

enough to survive the

luxuriousness to

bush, but lightweight

casual dressing.

and sensual,

enough to endure the heat.

In

suede,

it's

a

remake of a classic that can withstand the adventure of any weekend. With pants to

match,

it

heightens the

sense of occasion.

Leather pants are

now as essential as jeans for

many young

women. The softness of leather

makes the

pants comfortable

and

versatile.

Wearing

*

them with a wool turtleneck

you can

essentials: Leather

streets

boots. Don't get caught in

can

The safari jacket was

horizontals

Fall

It

be tough and

thin, thick

will

cool-weather

jackets.

For the very

knits

long

been the choice

the cold weather

urban

in style.

silk shirt

slippers,

without them.

and boots,

trek

With a

and velvet these pants

could be worn to

Thanksgiving dinner.

these politically correct times, what you wear can be

considered sinful from a blatant sense of forbidden

Tn

luxury or even morally reprehensible, depending on

whom you are

talking to or walking in front of. This

the fur debate,

and the

within the province of "your

right or

call."

wrong of

it

is

is

firmly

But the appeal of warm

shearling or the suppleness of soft leather

is

undebatably a

What were once considered luxury items suede, leather, and reptile skins have become sportswear basics in many women's wardrobes. Crocodiles and alligators, once on the endangered species list, are now farmsensual delight.



raised. Fine crocodile belts, bags, or shoes

time, qualifying classics,

them

as

can

last

a

life-

wardrobe investments. As with most

the simpler the lines, the

more

timeless the appeal.

autumn

Back to Earth

The classic black blazer

is

a wardrobe anchor. Worn

over khakis or a bare black dress,

has the range to

it

work with most clothes

in

of

the

your wardrobe.

shape gives the body

Its

definition,

which makes

it

important to choose a cut that looks great on and

comfortable to move

is

in.

worth repeating that a

It's

style with simple lines will

more

be

And

versatile.

because you

be reach-

will

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS ing for this

garment proba-

more than any

bly

make sure the

other,

quality is

the best you can afford,

which means good and a quality

ing

tailor-

fabric.

A in SIIOI id

\\

nine-month-a-year fabric, a

like

solve

wool crepe,

will

many wardrobe prob-

IfaQ)

I

jmple

Bl

INVESTMENT. EVEN 1

1

\<

II

K

l\( kl I

DON'

goes with every other color

yes h

lems for years to come.

\

even navj and brown

I

in It

I

I

K

-;i\

more?

,

It's

a classic

lil

I

\l \<

MBER ONE k?

your wardrobe

doesn't show dirt easily

can !» dressed up or dressed down.

«!

\l\

ISI

I

— always

Ii

s

slimming

in style.

need

The Black Jacket A lapel pin is a way to give the simplest of clothes your

personal stamp.

Q) A vest adds

f

a

layer of

warmth and can add color

and pattern to

501 jeans by

wardrobe

Levi Strauss

basics.

&

Co. have been

an American classic since

the 1850s. Available

in

many colors. dark blue and black are

considered dressiest.

Cltfc'AlllRttlSKKB

FIRST CLASS

UPGRADED -

autumn

Leaf Crunching WALKING BOOTS Look for comfort, gripping rugged

finish that will

trekking both urban

soles, a

accommodate

and

BLACK TURTLENECK

rural trails.

An easy

fit,

whether hang

md whites.

GETAWAY TOTE Look for an opening large

enough for easy access, a wipeclean, leak-proof liner,

and oufside

pockets

to

stow

maps, baguettes or the paper.

DENIM JEANS Our ode

to Levi's

501 s continues.

American classics since 1853, the darker they are. the dressier.



^

(>l

casual,

H—A

weekend wardrobe, think simple. and versatile (actually, think the same tiling

your

fall

whatever the season). in the crisp

^

jackets,

A

cool air conjures

good flannel or wool

Unfortunately,

many

hike through the foliage

up images of barn and country inns.

shirts,

inns have strange wallpaper, suspect

plumbing, drafty windows, and terrible coffee

—but once you

leave your lodging, your clothes can cheer you up. Throw

132

(

your gear into a great

tote.

Don't forget a polarfleece or

knit sweater, youi n usty leather jacket, soft

and ankle boots. Add jeans,

and a patterned

woolen

trousers,

a turtleneck, your favorite pair of scarf.

You're

now

reach for college

football tailgates, apple picking, or antiquing. Be sure to

pack one nice sweater and wool pants for unforeseen discov-

charming restaurant or a surprise cancellation Twin Farms in Vermont or the Ventanna Inn in Big Sur.

eries like a at

To the Manor rf^ The deep

color,

velvet collar,

and quilting of the jacket

add

richness to this

weekend

essential.

£ £ Even if they Ve never been near a duck blind or gone beagling, Preppies are dressed for it.^5 LISA BIRNBACH, The Official Preppy Handbook

'

7}

jj

Pattern attracts attention.

so be careful how you use

it.

autumn accessories jries LOAFER A classic first made popular by

campus

coeds m the it

1950s,

has become an old

fnend with a new twist.

Each season fabric,

its

color.

and shape are

varied, giving

us more

occasion to reach for

shoes Th

1

lie

better the shoe, the better the look.

More

than any other item, shoes define the degl ee formality in

with

through

attire

ol

what we wear. Shoes should blend color,

texture,

and shape.

Brown shoes are inherently sporty and work vei more sophisticated \

well with casual clothes. Black shoes are

and elegant, or have draw attention quality.

more

The

altitude.

to the feet

sturdier

Brightly

and have

and more

colored

a festive

and

shoes

frivolous

Vibram

four-wheel-drive trail-blazers.

sole signals a

more country

A

thick crepe or

or surburban

feel,

but

the key is to balance the shoe's message with your clothes and the occasion. The ramps of the Guggenheim and the

elevated bridge of the San Francisco Art

Museum

don't

require climbing soles, and squelching through wet lea\es in ballet slippers

134 Chic Simple

is

A feminine party shoe. The more colorful, the

more festive. Along with the sweater set,

substantial the shoe, the

functional. Boots can range from dress-up stvlish to

practical

BALLET SLIPPER

more Ugly Duckling than Swan Lake.

it

dresses up jeans and khakis.

It's

a comfort-

able solution worn with short skirts

and

opaque pantyhose.

it

as a comfortable way

to achieve low-key

panache.

SPLIT-TOE OXFORD Borrowed from menswear,

this substantial

shoe has

an authoritative but comfortable attitude. Think khaki in

summertime and gray flannel come winter.

JODHPUR BOOT In

brown suede,

or jeans.

In

it's

black

ideal with

calf, it's

worn under a slim-legged for

pantsuit

a sophisticated look with a

(C

tweeds

a boot that can be

little

attitude.

For

my

fiftieth birthday,

had the bags

I

removed from under

my

eyes and bought

these black suede boots on 8 th Street in

the Village. JJ

ILENE BECKERMAN, Love, Loss,

and What

I

Wore

B

H

H

..II ere you are

rf^i

again..

Over black, acoloriuii oal

stand: style.

SUNDAY

IN

NEW YO R K— or Saturday

or Milan or Paris or Tokyo.

in

London

These destinations

call for

casual clothes that speak of a certain sophistication and

urban edge. Black leather

is

always perfect.

mere turtleneck cleans up the act

of

A black cash-

your old khaki cargo

pants (though what are you doing wearing those

in

Paris

autumn

B

messed up and

..all

no place

to go.

59

JAY MCINERNEY, Bright Lights, Big City

The

luxury of

suede its

is

not only

touch and

its

great look, but

its

warmth.

;

The soft drape of

wool crepe pants fuller

anyway?).

A

crisp white shirt

goes

slim black pants or a longish black

weekend-in-the-city challenge

to dinner with pencilskirt.

For the ultimate

— nightclubbing, a gallery

flatters

bodies.

opening, finding a cab

in

LA — try your black leather jacket

with a simple black dress, earrings, in

Milan— Italians

feel that

wearing

and sandals (except all

black

is

mournful).

You've heard

it

BLACK PANTS

before,

but like most wardrobe basics

in black,

they can

easily be dressed

up or ;

dressed down and they

Q;

If

+

you wear the pants

or jacket separately,

be sure when you

are slimming. They tend

are having

them

dry-

cleaned to send them

to hide the dirt

and wrin-

in

together to maintain

ANYTHING

color and tone.

kles better than colors do, a

bonus when

eling.

In

trav-

more

today's

casual world, they are as

basic as the

little

black

STYLE

The best wardrobe

dress.

investment

is

probably

a black pantsuit, so you

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS have two pieces that

work as well together as they do on their own.

But

you find yourself

if

Black pants can go to the office, out for dinner,

always reaching for the

and away for a relaxing weekend.

Because of their amazing versatility, they are a favorite for

pants,

don't

ruin

seasoned travelers.

the

suit;

invest in another

pair

of

black slacks.

138 Chic

L.

autumn

^Marlene

and Roy Rogers humans who should be

Dietrich

are the only two living allowed to wear black leather pants.

^

EDITH HEAD

A nylon tote knows no season, and can be

easy on the back.

It

allows you to carry

more

without adding weight

) '

If

your belt buckle

attracts attention,

make sure your stomach

doesn't.

A gold,

silver,

or rhinestone

buckle can your choice of jewelry.

I

limit

Much

as

cowboy championship

a rodeo

sports his

belt buckle with his den-

ims,

today's

woman

dressed

her

style

classically

exhibits

with the simplest of uniforms

and her "investment" belt. One of the most basic of accessories, a belt often has the most impact. Because it usually cinches her waist,

it

often the focal

is

point of an ensemble. For that reason is

it

especially important to evaluate care-

any belt that comes with a garment.

fully

it of quality materials? Well made? Does it give the impression of the careful and stylishly dressed woman that you wish to convey? If not, replace it. A

Is

belt should

be equal to or better than

the rest of your ensemble.

may drag down

Belts can be discreet

brown

(black or

it

wardrobe

basics

alligator or leather with

or no hardware) or the only jew-

little

elry

If it's not,

the rest of your outfit.

one needs

belts

to wear. Today's designer

have become objects of desire,

guarded

as closely as a

her jewelry

—and

woman

guards

cost as

much.

many

Perhaps the chicest outfit a

wear

is all

woman

can

black with a simple gold or

ver buckle

on

a supple

sil-

leather belt.

its

a cinch

tyH

autumn

142 Chic Simple

Trick or Treat? The jumpsuit, had

its

first

worn by women

Catwoman. Women's jumpsuits today are often sexv formal attire, usually with long sleeves and a zippered front or back. They come in fabrics ranging from jersey Pfeiffer playing

early in the 20th century,

origin as a man's uniform.

When women began

to

pilot airplanes and "man" factories during wartime, they adopted the jumpsuit. It made a comeback as a fashion state-

ment

in the 1960s

Emma

when

through again

found

TV

jumpsuit

series

The Avengers.

cycled

It

in the 1990s with the inspiration of Michelle

the

is

and

belts,

the perfect

foil for

gabardine,

in

it's

big necklaces and dramatic

a fine traveling

movement while

companion.

women's

ware of the American woman's

er of the

desire for comfortable clothing

bodies

modern-day

rather than staid French style.

him countless awards. His femi-

grew

Beene's finely crafted designs

nine renderings of jumpsuits fea-

moving ign.

to

d the

He grew

clothes

way

to almost weightier

\\

n

\i

\

II

MPS!

is

mi

nil ii

WD

II

freedom

allow

that

\

i;i

\i

t

N(

lil

i

sin

Basically, the difference lies in

hugs

and

tin-

bod}

legs thai

like a lit

second

i

w

i

l>\

lilt"

—designs that have earned

gently

curved waists and

narrow legs pegged at the ankles.

? fit.

--kin.

\

cal >uii

with arms

like a tighi sweater-knit.

shape inspired more thai!

of

ture

defining

EN

Jumpsuits usually have more drape, and

Invited to

but usually

offrey Beene,

e

(B)*

to silk (also leather,

in stores with a specific clientele). In a solid color, the

appeared on Diana Rigg playing

it

Peel in the British

wool and Lycra blends

to

wearer

s

l>\

the designer's

a

mind

body.

a Halloween party but you simply cannot deal with creating or renting a costume? Why not wear an all-black cat

suit with

a striking

mask—or with a fantastic hat and gloves.

\ HIN

MAN • ALL ABOUT EVE •

DR. NO

• FATHER

01

MARTINIS EIGHT

A

T

W

/

£• A martini is like a woman's breast. One aint enough and three is too manyJ^ COCKTAIL WAITRESS, A martini is the cocktail equivalent of a zen koan:

it

is

c

hardest mixed drink to make. beincimi-

i

refern

i

Martinis are

,

It

w.

iriyasi887and

a Martinez cod

a religion, a private cult, an

invitation to witticism

and

sophistication,

and are as dangerous as a handsome man. Like

all

The Parallax View

both the easiest and the

good things

in life,

from

chocolate to miracle bras, they should

be approached with caution and of course with no thought of operating

heavy machinery. The debate

is

\

endless,

but shaken wins with us every time.

L..

• ADAM'S RIB

THE BRIDE

a

f i

understanding

DRESS WITHOUT STRESS.

day-into-evening wear and the

Accessories that you can confidently

important

s

^L /

MAJOR AND THE MINOR

• THE

as

^k how-tos of transforming ^k black office dress or



reach

jewelry,

is

one

slip

of a neck-

message

is

delivered.

gold- or silver-sequined

hour

evening for

happens

much glitter, be New Year's

to

The

stockings

hand.

unless a

a helpful

list

in

black or nude always on

One of the most valuable tools

woman

should employ before her

grand night out

Understatement is elegance. With a large necklace, wear small earrings. With larger earrings, wear a bracelet or brooch. On the other is

peau de soie

Eve.

Suites of jewelry:

hand, here

or

Be sure you have unworn sheer

simply too early in the

is

this

silk

porting roles to the dress of choice.

Bright

dresses:

Black

evening shoes and bag play sup-



it

for special

diamonds, and pearls glow

at night.

thousand too many sequins or a skirt so short that your accessories clash with your panties and an unfor-

cocktail

dressing

focus-

an incorrect cocktail

is

takes

it

is

line or a few

tunate

when

for

suil evenings are valuable assets. Jet

into cocktail attire

ing on what dress. All

the

is

addition of only a

makeup. With the

brilliant

red

lipstick,

she dresses up her face. Brushing on a pale matte powder and applying a

of delightful smoky shadow and

nuances that can shake or stir. DECOLLETAGE: Plunging necklines

lash -lengthening

cocktail

were made for cocktail

parties.

mascara

How low?

will

into the night.

Depends on the mission you're on. These jewels are truly a woman's best friend and never look better

Marlene

than with an understated cocktail dress.

and Catherine Deneuve have

STILETTOS:

to

They're at their best dur-

on

legs dangling

from

fragrance. Dietrich,

Judy Garland, Princess Diana,

androgynous advantage.

have borrowed from

this

all

worn black tie

Details that

women

masculine archetype

include: wing-collared, pleated-front shirts;

a bar stool, accessorizing a

little

black dress.

For some, wearing a shoe that reveals the

soft

bow ties; cummerbund belts;

flats

with bow;

suede

ond

greatest proponent of black

GAMS:

is

stirring.

Sheer black stockings add

ele-

—seduction. With

fish-

gance. With seams net

—an

slippers.

women.

First

or

Yves Saint Laurent has been the

introduced

tie,

in

or le smoking,

1966, his feminine

dinner jackets remain an inspiration to

audition opportunity for a cast

part in Cabaret.

for

patent leather

and monogrammed velvet

cleavage line between the large and sectoe

Don't leave

home

before spntzing on your most heady

DIAMONDS:

ing cocktail hour,

ensure she won't fade

designers today. They are worn with collarbones bared, over skirts or trousers.

II

a

autumn

It

The Black Coat

coat

doesn't get more basic

more than

about

is

staying

warm. Consider

it

woman

an introduction, and a

should consider starting

remembrance. It can add glamour with a

than

Every

this.

her coat wardrobe with a

long sweep of in

black

long

wool,

cash-

evolve,

Over a black

attitude

combining the unexpected

These

she. uli.

coat.

t;i\c-

a coat

.is

statements

Style

wardrobe

an investment that



over a satin

leather biker jacket

mere, or alpaca chesterfield

or

fur,

is

is

truly

built

over

nine and should be enjoyed for dress or tuxedo ensemble,

main

years.

pra< deal: raincoat,

Eventually you is

the height of sophisti-

cation. Over gray flannel

worn

with

slip

feel

sweater

in a

it

relaxed

makes

plush fabric like fur or

pile.

brocade, matelasse,

satin,

and

and

fur-lined silks are other

sump-

it's

the color

that seduces you, or a pattern that

makes you of

that

a

the essence

is

desire some-

sleeve. Possibly

tuous options. Maybe pearls,

the

jacket,

fabulous every time von

your arm into a

Velvet,

cashmere

may

more luxurious

thing

von

trousers

with

weekend

and wool coat that can double for work and evening functions.

SIMPLE SOLUTIONS it

start

First

feel daring.

Even a dark

chic-perfect cloth coat can be elevated to spe-

for

a

casual

dinner out

cial

evening status by virtue of a

brightlv colored satin lining, or by

wherever you are going.

adding a beaded scarf or fur

hat.

L..

Night Falls on the City <TA Ajacketisan alternative to

the long coat,

one that saves you fretting about changing hemlines.

Make

sure that what

shows underneath

is

well

coordinated.

f

w)

^ evenin9 coal n a '

dramatic color, texture, or pattern is

entrance maker.

an It

changes the mood and separates work from

LEOPARD. Reversible coats can adapt to your whimsy or the

occasion with at

little

glamorous me."

play.

VELVET. Occasionally you're faced with a spectacular

one you

makes wardrobe

planning. Leopard print says "look

creation,

When

sense, but does give you and your basic huge dose of style. Like all true fashion aficionados, if vou don't have the occasion to wear it, von create one.

reversed to sheared mink, a

more elegant self their value, and the glimpse of

emerges. Their

versatility

adds

to

lining adds mystery.

little

a

fall

for heart over pocketbook.

It

a Every mile

is

two

GEORGE HERBERT,

in winter.

^

"Jacula Prudentum"

V Winter

is

a time

off

travel, of holidays in

clarity, of exploration,

off

white landscapes of snow

and along the azure

of

faraway beaches.

It

also allows time to discover inside, with quie*

weekends and

restful retreats.

It is

the sea

son of opportunity, of grand balls and intimat*

moments wine

in

with a loved one over a glass of a sexy Valentine's

Day rendezvous,

enjoyed because February's gray holds it

rei

withii

the promise of the green rush of sprint

ww I am younger each yea/- a/ suddenly, in the

(dr. (id little

the first snow,

II

and while and moving;

again and very young and ANNE SEXTON,

I

I

see

I lien

I

am

believe everything.

A Self-Portrait

\

hen

in Letters

%%

if.

in lore

RENEW

&

REINVEST

BEFORE Check

to see

replacing

the

if

holidays

J

any basics need

— sales

begin

and

during

continue

through January. Make a

and keep checking be

in

the

stores

WINTER BASICS

it.

for

You

list

will

holiday

shopping and may save time by

silk

blouse

J evening pants J velvet scarf black coat

J two-ply cashmere sweater J boots hat

evening bag

J drop earrings shopping for yourself as well.

HOLIDAY WEAR

WINTER OCCASIONS Christmas... Chanukkah...

Kwanzaa...

BOOTS

New

Boxing

Year's...

Day...

Cocktail

parties... Office parties...

Caroling...

Resorts...

Ski

V.

trips...

Valentine's Day...

Now \YI rO WEAR TIGHTS \\

I

INSTI

DEJUNK

&

OF

\l>

PANTYHOSE IT'S REA1

RECYCLE

IS

I

THAT OK

Thick

\

• » If

I

had

(

N

OLD.

\\ ?

tights that

match your

PANTS

\\ III

1

-kirt or

our shoes are okay.

lint tliev

do lend a

sporty air to your

ensemble. Wear a

a dress

long -kin or the thickest

opaque

stockings von can

like that,

find with your short skirt.

RENEW

REINVEST AFTER &

After the beginning of the

New for

Fd give it away too.

Year, look in your closet

any spring items that

no longer special

fit

you or your

occasions.

COLD

^

WEATHER GEAR

BONNIE HUNT, in

Only You Always have at

Resale

at-home outfit

shops usually begin adding

stocks

clothing in

to

their

pair of velvet slippers.

Someone is sure to drop in unannounced during the holidays.

February.

SURVEY

&

ASSESS

Try on your winter garments. Check for fit,

spots, tears, missing buttons,

holes. Fabric

do not

last

and moth

and metallic evening shoes

as long as your good leather

pumps, so inspect them

carefully.

Check

your gloves to see there are two of each. If

your leather or suede gloves are

soiled, take

HATS

one dressy

beautiful

matching sweater and slacks,

and a

spring

least

—a

who

will

them

to your dry cleaner,

send them on to a special

leather-cleaning

facility.

JEWELRY

n wintei

6c

fab

(faQ\ Sllnl LD

I

WEAR

Actually, the

Ll

animal

Mill

U

l\

SNOVI OR RAIN?

did. Bui then,

bide wasn

its

i

processed, dyed, smoothed, and stitched. You can weai

your leather and suede inn

emerge

as sofl

"i

snow

in the rain "t

retain

its

Inn n

colorfastness.

ma\

Napp)

suedes can be brushed when dry, but smooth leather

should

!»'

dried with a cloth as soon a-

|«»>



-il»l«-

FEEL Winter

M

E

moment. Ask

fashion's bio

is

any designer. The opportunity

to

mix of sumptuous Fabrics is the thrill of their art Not onlj cm

layer

.i

the visual

richness of varying tex-

be seductive to the eye, but their sensuous touch can give us t

in ts

momentary

More than bearing a designer's is

label, fabric

an important

of determining of

a gar

part

beyond the dictates of fashion, fabrics need to thi< ken up in winter. We have to wear them it's a matter of survival. It is pause-.

Yet



tht

also important to think of dressing in layers. In

colder regions, an outer

and highpromises warmth. In

shearlings, furs,

layei

of

tech

fibers

more moderate

climates,

polarfieece,

fibers,

micro-

double-faced

wools, cashmere, camel hair, leather,

suede, and alpaca do the job.

What

we wear underneath can be aggressively bold in texture and dramatic in presence, not to mention easy to strip off

roaring

when we're sitting beside a fire and recounting our

on the slope. It's the stuff that makes winter dressing nubby wool suitings, largeexciting gauge mohair knits, and rugged suede vests. Last should be the most soothing layer, as it is worn against our skin. Light silks, satins, and day's triumphs



cashmere help us

to feel glorious.

Decadentk TOUCH ME While we may be hidden beneath layers of fabric,

our choice of texture

can make us stand out. Adding a gar-

ment with a satin sheen or a shiny thread woven throughout brightens up our heavy clothes. And there is one winter fabric so lush, so tempting, that you may look for ways to wear it day and night, or regardless



of traditional fashion rules all

year long: Velvet.

— possibly

The

pile

sumptuous, whether the fiber ton, rayon, or feel. ..well,

silk.

luxurious.

Velvet

which the

pile

is literally

vel-

and printed or painted velvets. And sometimes more than one of these elements appear in the same

vets,

—a printed cut velvet may be

overpainted with touches of metallic gold.

Other

or mirror, velvet, where the pile pressed in one or

more

produce a surface sheen. may wear velvet boldly, as a evening

to

I"

is

SHI Mil ING?

The

shofl -wooled

skin ol sheep or is

sheared

before slaughter

ami tanned without removing Ii

t

lie

wool.

was once consid-

ered the "Ml ret fur nl

European youth.

I>n!

beautiful dyes

and fashionable designs bave elevated the Mains nl this

very

warm

leather.

cape,

or

subtlety

f'

^

Sparkling coppers,

deep bronzes, and is

directions

to

or

\

velvets include crushed,

where a process produces an irregular, barklike surface, and panne,

velvet

1

is

solid-

burned away in production), cut

fabric

1

cot-

colored, uncut pile velvets, devore velvets (in

\\

[faQ]

lamb is

makes us

There are

scf

We suit



bag or shoes adds a richness

even the most casual of clothes.

rich rusts

are

warm

winter colors that are flattering to

most.

\UI

UaQ)

-I

PRA< in

Bin

PI

I

\l

Yes, unless

\

-

i i

l\

WINTI R?

mi

live in

area « lure -i»n\

\

an

ami

icj

streets are regularlj treated

w

sand.

nli

chemicals.

salt,

ami other

here are liquid

I

protectors on the mai

lnu even

you

\\ ill

COld -i.

Q

il

ri-^k

-I'.l-iHI

mini

w

llll

l);l(ll\

l.ioiw ear.

colors are variations of red.

rQj

li

yoi

ii

and

Black

little

is

silver.

the

ground upon

black dress

seems tired,

which these

jump-start

colors can dance. it

with a colorful

coat or a high -impact

necklace.

December is the month our social calendars can reach overload, and it is wise to plan for events, anticipated and spur-of-the-moment, in advance. How do you plan for the unknown? One way is to add colored velvets to your

wardrobe. Bright-red, burgundy, forest-green, even luxurious black velvets signal the beginning of the holidays.

A velvet jacket worn perfect

with dressy shoes and bag can be the

accompaniment

to a simple black top

I

M mi ~l uiiij the

Winter party

gold,

b

you use them,

and

pants.

J

)

There

is

no

confusion that

a top covered in

crystal

beads

dresses things up.

When the

cut

is

low and

loosely draped, it

can be both

sensuous and forgiving larger

Style

is in

Don't be afraid of

on a

wearing pants

upper

the mix. body.

A simple drawstring pant worked

in

for

a dressy evening, especially

a

if

you're worried

dressy fabric and

about your legs.

worn with a simple

The fuller the cut

cashmere turtle-

ofthelegandthe

neck offers a look

softer the drape,

of casual chic.

the dressier the silhouette.

U A

M

I

N

N

wardrobe is not limited to only dressing holiday colors. Adding a few shimmering or sparkling pieces can give you just the right amount of

just

sparkle whether you are going to a celebratory gala or

room becomes

festive

in

feeling

special

home

while

dining with When the warp or weft of your clothes shot with metallic threads, your passage through a at

holiday company. is

a

moment

of scintillating energy.

Stiletto tt High-heelecL have been known

thin-strapped sandals

but they're often to tie you up, so CYNTHIA HEIMEL,

to

Contrary thinking,

popular belief and (men's) wishful

women

some men to frenzies, men who want

to (hire

be careful Sex Tips for

bone

in

her

yy

Girls

feel but

was saved from other bodily injury by a

narrow and often fbm inches in height. In the '50s, stilettos were banned from some marble and wood surfaces, as well as airplanes, where it was feared

The minute she could walk again, she was back in high heels. A woman learns, almost instinctively, what high heels do for her posture and sexual allure, how they can drive a man crazy. The decision not to wear high heels may seem easy to make but is difficult to stick to

they would

High heels fust became popular with American women when skirts began to rise in the 1920s, and if you have ever known a woman who was a true lover of high heels, you know the depth of

in the

her passion. In Houston, a power dresser of the 1980s

the d'Orsay, a shorter

heels.

dentally

fell

A

not

all

stiletto

arc in love with high

heel can be harrowing, as

puncture the metal

on her

is

floor.

into the orchestra pit of the

Center. Landing squarely

it

acci-

Wortham Theater

stilettos,

she broke every

tight

biown leather

presence of a meticulously crafted pair of crocodile

pumps [f you

suit.

or a pair of spindly jewel-encrusted evening sandals.

compromise on comfort, there are

are not willing to

sew, dress) alternatives. Revealing toe cleavage or wearing

pump

can be as seductive and

cut low to reveal the arch,

on the feet. black peau de

infinitely easier

your evening collection with a pair

in

Start soie.

SURVIVE STILETTOS. They may look sexy, to

but they can

mention the aching feet and cramped calves. To minimize

muscles before wearing, and exercise stretch your feet

to build

up

calf

be a real pain

their

in

the lower back, not

adverse impact, stretch your leg

and stomach muscles. Take

whenever possible. Use a padded shoe

liner to

off

shoes and

cushion the balls of your

feet.

Avoid walking long distances. Try not to wear high heels for more than six hours, and don't wear the

same

pair

two days

in

a row.

When

in

doubt, repeat the mantra "Beauty

knows no

pain."

What Should

I

VVfear^

ff

f

} II I ( /'

There comes a point in

every woman's

NOT SHORT ON GLAM A black velvet a>

life-

more often than not dur-

dress with at

and a grown-up version

ing the winter holidays-

when

it's

time to

pull

out

U

once a young

all

n at i<>

most

events because

the stops. Either you want and ex v

to

have the time of your life

or the occasion calls for

fancy dress.

And fancy

EVENING SUIT irfeta,

I

dress does not only

mean

in

wttons, transii

long gown. Pantsuits,

especially

goi

everyday

into nights only.

Pants are acceptable

short suits,

and

cocktail

at

most

black-tie

events, especially

dresses are

now often as

:

i

ng- edge urban

environments and

appropriate

worked

in

if

they are

dazzling fabrics

with decorative detail. Metallics, vets,

and

brocades, lace

vel-

can be

cause for excitement.

I

atmospheres

of

Miami

LONG ON STYLE The long

dress, for

those formal events

when men are expected white

tie

to

wear

or black,

represents a major

investment

for

most

women. Your first choice might be

something black that

can be transformed by accessories. After that,

A

column fabric in

go for effect.

of decorative

will

a room

a great option

a

i

lace for

cover their arms yet

sarily black- tie formal, still

suit

in

like

women who want to

Although not neces-

a short

j

of color.

sheer fabric is

Mf

stand out

Long sleeves

WELL-SUITED

I

long, light-colored

look feminine.

li

can be

distinguished by a

boldness

in

color

especially rich

worked

in

made

when

is

double-

faced duchess

satin.

Such an ensemble >•

would be the choice for

a cocktail

in cities

buffet

such as

:v

Houston, Dallas, Detroit, or

Chicago.

^

W

Time

Money

Is

Not since Cinderella

has a dressy watch

been as essential to a woman's special-

• • Three o'clock

occasion wardrobe as now. Today dressing up for

is

usually

is

a charitable

fundraiser,

always too

late

and the

or too early

women who organize these events run them with the precision of

for anything

a Swiss trainmaster.

you want to do.}^ JEAN-PAUL SARTRE

Notice some

crossover between your everyday

and special-occasion the black

pumps

or

the pearls to work, theater.

These

accessories.

flats,

PTA

You can wear and

the black purse,

and for the become the foun-

functions,

versatile pieces

you wain something unusual. Most

basics

lists,

pieces that

160 Chic Simple

get you dirough any event, planned it:

It is

for special occasions that

lies

the potential for

making bad

The point

is

to

know

what the basics are for you, then build from there. Therein

can depend on to

face

and therein

clothing and accessory investments.

lies

stylishly

are not satisfied

with the few dress-up clothes or accessories that are on these

dation of a wardrobe. They are the simple solutions that you

and unplanned. But

women

the opportunity to begin acquiring over time special

when worn

repeatedly

become your personal

style

markers, those pieces that set you apart from the crowd.

Min-CTDyair JUDITH LEBER has been bedecking the glamorous

MIOl

II)

I

)I\\I()M)> Sills,

WEAR

and wealthy (Beverly

KIM.

1)1

Kim Basinger, and Ivana Trump,

ML \)\\ ? Man- Owen Greenwood. I

to

name a few) with her jeweled

exotic designs sincel 963.

The a Texas socialite.

craftsmanship involved, which she herself learned in

Budapest,

is

an

in

artisan's guild

unparalleled,

of her minaudieres are

7,000 to

each

1

was once

was improper

Some

complete. They have collector's items

wear

to

came

day. "Honey,*

3,000 pave rhinestones,

individually hand-set.

it

diamonds during the

covered with

One

bag can take up to seven days

told that

Greenwood

to

"thill S

become

1

worthy of display.

-

retort,

exactly what

thought until

afford them."

I

could nless

I

they are low -key. likr

Mud-, wearing diamonds (luring the

an exercise

[

ACTUAL SIZE

day

calls lor

in taste.

]

Sometimes bigger isn't necessarily better, especially when it comes to evening bags. And few can match the beauty or status as collectible of the minaudiere.

One

of these small sculptural bags, usually ornamented

with pave faux jewels,

may be

for any dressy occasion.

When

minaudiere can be displayed where it can function

shelf,

all it

at

as

the jewelrv vou need

has the day

home on a

tiny

off,

the

a table or

objet

d'art.

mm A perfectly* managed Christmas correct in even' detail is, like basted inside seams and letters answered by re/ urn, «

!

a sure sign of someone irho

h^n 7

enough

to

do.}}

KATHERINE WHITEHORN

M j*jfr

•j*

m

>;~

m

um

.*^U.

sfas

cf^ Avoid wearing bright red

on

camera or you

may risk some dissolution

in

the garment's silhouette.

cf^i

Sometimes you have to

let

everyone else

wear black, so you'll shine.

Snap-on shoe ornaments can give velvet

flats

holiday cheer.

A classically styled sweater instantly

becomes an evening

affair

with the addition of

beading or

sequins.

Tw

1

rimming Thee: Christmas forth just as

No

sooner

ible elf

holly.

to burst

some

invis-

Throughout the United

States,

are compelled to spread the holiday spirit by deco-

would

easiest

way

Christmas cheer in red. In

is

to

enon

that

began decades ago with

designs onto sweatshirts. Today

clothing items at this

quality,

proportion, detail, and design. These sweaters are

phenom-

with black to

make

by dressing

the recent decades of

power wardrobes, red has become a prerequisite, if not a

neutral.

It

calls attention

and

can signal power. That red wool suit

gluing glitter

similar to choosing a painting, in terms of considering

night, with jeans

Perhaps spread

women

has reached the propor-

becoming one of the best-selling time of year. Choosing one can be

worn day and

sweater, a

it

tions of holiday tradition,

their tree. Talk about

power of dress. Hence the Christmas

SCARLET WOMAN: the

seems

Thanksgiving grace.

the table cleared than

is

rating themselves, just as they the

spirit

finish saying

has trimmed every streetlight in town with

boughs of

women

we

purchased for an important

speaking engagement

will

just right for the holidays.

be

And

what about the red twinset

the design

and velvet; try wearing them pop and your body recede.

originally

bought to brighten up

your good

black

Worn

suit?

with a taffeta ball skirt,

it

can

go from holiday dinner parties to nearly in

the

any formal occasion

month

of

December.

Wha-

987654321

••

May

your only pain in life

be

^

champagne. Toast given by

DERRILL OSBORN COUCH POTATO Times Square

up your living

lights

room. The ball drops, followed by

champagne toasts with loved ones.

The moment calls for

DANCING

in

The slip dress

in

shaker-knit sweater

the

1920s, and

luxury fabrics.

A cashmere

vvi'.|«i|Hihi wilh

flappers

comfort clothes

silk

will

paiazzo pants.

Easy chic.

probably keep on i

1,

u

ii

;ing well into

the millennium Overall beading

sparkles

in

the

of the disco

Ay DRESS dress

for

light

lull.

UP. The one night of the year

celebration

that will last into the

is

the

last

wee hours

one—New Year's of the next year.

glamour or highbrow elegance, think

1

when every woman wants Eve

to

— but she wants a look

Whether you opt

festive, think fabulous,

and

for

low-key

think

com-

fort—you'll

be partying

for hours.

Sexy sleeveless tops help

free dancing. Highlights of beading, sequins,

cashmere and

velvet.

what you put on

to



it's

ensure sweat-

and metallics add fireworks

Make sure your shoes wear you

go outdoors

to

out.

And

not just the getting there,

it's

to

don't forget

the journey.

64 Chic Simple

L.L

R.S.VP

A long velvet dress ple

in

a sim-

shape

is

timeless

glamour fit for

a formal gala as well as a holiday buffet.

Your choice of

cover-up and accessories will

dictate the

occasion.

PARTY HOPPING Why not look great en route from

early

evening cocktails to late-night

sup-

per to cheering on the gunfire that signals the

New

Year out West.

N

u NEW

YEAR'S RESOLUTIONS:

/

will. .Stop smoking.. .Drink

by 3 inches

N

no more than fourteen alcohol units a week...

inches each) using (inlicellulile diet.. Purge flat of all extraneous matter... Give oil clothes which have not worn for two years or more to homeless.. .Go to gym three times a week not merely to buy sandwich... Form functional relationship with responsible adult. ..Learn to program video...

Reduce circumference of thighs

(i.e..

I

!

/l>

HELEN FIELDING,

Bridget Jones's Diary Whe*

SWOOOOOSH you trip

Tf

ski,

is

the idea of an

one

upcoming

ski

mem-

of excitement, with

&

ories of the smell of pine trees, the

sun burning your face as

reflects

it

(

>l

I

the crisp white slopes, the whooshing noise as you carve out sweeping turns in

morning snow, and

fresh

the

sensuous

tiredness of muscles as you later relax outside in the hot tub

snow your Inst

you

gives

know most first

of

under the

a

this,

stars as falling

turban of white

[fyou don't

ski

—you

or

il

time, your feelings are probabl)

summed up

by

-.alkie-

it's

Krma Bombeck's adage

do not participate in any sport with ambulances at the bottom of the hill" in "1

ielp

keept touch

on the slopes.



which

The

case, the following will be helpful.

key to enjoying skiing

is

staying

warm

and comfortable whether on or oil the slopes, and that is always best accomplished by wearing layers of clothing.

and multiple

layers instead

'

ttens

keep

hands warmer in

Think lean

gloves.

of bulky. Opt lor

lightweight outerwear in techno fabrics

This watch

shows temp-

th.it

erature

combine function and style, keeping you warm and dry. Layering stretches your wardrobe and helps you adapt to the mam

when

relaxing

feet skied, for

bragging rights

and when

at the

Wear comfortable knits for travel, cashmere tops and pants for apres-ski. A

skirt

or pants

And

best of

will

a long

take care of evenings out.

enough to enhance your entire wardrobe when you get back home. Color adds pizzazz and will help to locate you on the slope, but don't forget basics in black; they make those colors pop.

166 Chic Simple

all,

they're versatile

It

five daily

of

has

alarms

and comes

dressy top, luxurious cashmere sweater, or

wear with

end

the day.

exercising.

fur-collared cardigan to

it

tracks vertical

temperature changes you can experience indoors and out,

and

altitude, plus

an array of Beaver-collared high fashion

meets techno

performance-wear.

The one-piece ski suit has long been a

European favorite.

cool colors.

in

Wraparound glasses

Remember that most body

protect the eyes from

the sun, wind,

heat

and

your ears

have UV- protected

reflects

and

through your head.

Earmuffs or bands

snow. Be sure they

coatings; the

is lost

will

snow

keep

all

of

the sun's rays, which

ness.

If

blind-

they have a

yellow tint they will be useful for white-out

conditions. Also

sure there

is

be

ade-

quate ventilation

so the lenses don't fog.

• •It was so cold,

I

almost got married.

SHELLEY WINTERS

hat

you warmer.

intensifies

can cause snow

may keep

warm but a knit

^}

Apres-Ski

Da^i

A cashmere sweai trimmed in mink may be over the top in some circles •

urious

of dressing

way

down

in

others.

.idds

a dose of glamour to this otherwise

classic

day coat.

Before spending

a

lot

of

gloves,

money on remember

that they are

among the most commonly items.

Fine wool

slacks offer

comfort

and

style

all

week long.

168 Chic Simple

lost

& Night

SKI TRIP LIST -I

jacket

-I

polar vest

J

ski

-I

fleece/knit tops

-I

gloves/mittens

-I

pants

slacks

may be all you need

to dress

up for dinners out.

An unexpected

ski hat

^ ski -I

A dressy shirt pared with

and nothing

A pleated

slip

socks

could come in handy.

Another option.

J headband -I

sunglasses

-I

sunblock

dress takes

up no room and

neck gaiter

-I lip

invitation

to wear?

Dress

*

it

down by

wearing

it

under a

sweater with boots.



gloss

-I

goggles

-I

thinsulate or

/ 1

silk

undies

'9

@*

apres-ski boots

An evening sweater provides warmth and

-I

boot bag

style

when worked in

cashmere with fur trim.

CI

gear bag

-I

sweaters

-I

ski boots

-I

poles

that

-l

skis

partment. Dress

first-aid kit

bulkiness

altimeter watch/

shells

and wind pants

serious ski gear

ing

hot

knit separates

varies from knickers to one-piece Lycra suits.

-i

-I

J jeans

GO SKIING. Pack a durable,

can accommodate ski boots

is

(silk

is

bag

a separate com-

down on

lightweight layers to cut

undies. Polartec pile for insulation,

—and

Ventilation

in

in

lightweight

it

in

offers

nylon).

Cross-country

ski-

a great workout. The look

key. Downhill skiers

endure cold rides

swimsuit

up the slope before racing back down. They need

tights

up-to-date fabrics for warmth and comfort.

J athletic -I

dfljfti

shoes

dinner clothes

APRES-SKI. don't

be

Bring festive yet relaxed clothing

afraid to

and

mix them with skiwear. Most

resorts have exercise

rooms and indoor

pack workout clothes and a bathing

suit.

pools,

so

Sun

pf 1 4

[

Resort

]

Bathing suit

cover-ups are key when ing.

travel-

Think about

the walk from the hotel

room to the

pool for starters.

And during the winter months,

balmy breezes

can get

gusty.

bt He was audibly tan.^} FRAN LEBOWITZ

here comes a time every winter when the avalanche of days with snow,

ice, rain, sleet,

the blah look of gray leafless trees sends ns raling into cabin fever. Resort time! .said in / Wouldn't trip

is

Have Missed

:

iimple

as

spi-

Adeline

for the World, "A

what you take when you can't take anymore of what

you've been taking." But playing beach 170 Chi

It

Or

and

bum

doesn't

mean

\ou have "usoi

t

to look like one. Retailers call this line of clothes

wear," to distinguish

to the sales rack.

name, and

But that

is

it

from summer items relegated

a confusing

and dated-sounding

a depressing label

if

you're not going anywhere.

But conceptually, resort wear

is

made up of lightweight

fab-

pack well and can be worn in spring and early

fall,

rics that

like

matte

jersey.

The

colors are brighter, but not necessarily

wint

Cool Heat

<fi Navy adds the right

dose of

—deep,

color

rich,

yet not somber,

A navy peacoat is

as no one wants to look

on

nearly seasonless

somber

holiday.

classic,

It's

when worked

a

In

whether

silk

you're striving for

elegant or

sporty,

in silk.

winter months,

jackets look

best at night.

for

and has a

bonus: Navy looks great on everyone.

pastels

which can look

terrible against pale winter skin.

wardrobe base color tends toward its

navy,

perhaps because of

nautical heritage. Travel with a classic-cut jacket coupled

with cooling cotton shirts, tailored trousers,

and a few

well-

—an all-purpose getaway ensemble. Tank pants, and perhaps a trench jacket — for unexpected showers or evenings— take you through the chosen accessories tops,

chilly

Add

The

day.

'

a necklace, a jeweled belt, or a tiny purse for evening.

For the beach or pool, a swimsuit

Why

will

need

a cover-up.

not a pointelle sweater that works over the swimsuit

or over pants for dinners out. cotton crewneck sweater to

tie

And

around your neck

nights, plus a large, elegant scarf.

pack, so be ruthless



it's

bring a white or black

The tendencv

for breezj is

your holiday, not your

to oxercloset's.



makirf radiance

:1

o your face with

a gold necklace

A locket pulls attention

down-

ward, toward

k

the bustlme.

:q: Avoid going overboard *

on holiday themes. Yes to Christmas sweaters; hold back

on Valentine's and Halloween clothing

costume

except

for

parties.

A well-dressed

woman never wants to

become a walking

greeting card.

V

A

N

As winter roars into the new

hecome even

For most women, red color of love. But ing,

172 Chic Simple

year, the reds in

greater assets. Not only

dark days of winter, but they

if

is

I

set

do thev brighten up the

the tone for Valentine's Day.



rich,

warm, the

to find the color

overpower-

a flattering color

you happen

your wardrobe

Uy wearing something white around your

face.

A choker

N

E

DAY

S

'

of pearls or pearl earrings can add a softening touch, as can a white shirt or a blouse, or even an ivory sweater. ber,

on

Valentine's

Wearing something silk, tic,

becomes you

Day be sure soft against

first

for yourself.

skin, like

cashmere or

to dress

your

And remem-

a personal luxury. If you feel pretty

are prettv

and romantic. Other people

and roman-

will feel

it

too.

whoopee mm I love the idea of Wearing a '

there being

halter

is

an opportunity

to

show off your

two sexes,

great shoulders.

Try pinning

up

don't you? 9}

your hair.

JAMES THURBER

D

R

S

E

There are times when you want

S

N

I

to feel sexy but think

yon haven't

—the legs or the cleavage—to strut But sexiness has

got the stuff

never been a body prerogative;

comfort and awareness. lusciousness

and

it's

When

you want

state,

an aura of self-

to radiate



come easily Often what we put on will

sensuality will

communicates well.

a mental

it's

vitality,

your

a feeling that

trigger a

mood

sheer fabrics strategically placed: arms, shoulders • off the shoul-

der neckline clearage •





drop back

mules

shimmery

• hair, loosely

fabric •

bottom, or waist

• sexy

slit

mystery • bare shoulders

• stilettos • toe

pinned up or long and unpinned

skirt •

• colors:

undergarments

pants that sway • a

fitted top.

white = purity, red = danger, black = • a

man's white oxford-cloth

shirt •

a glimpse of lace • the feel of leather or satin against our skin •

red

lips



heady perfume



clear eves



a sexv mind.

*• Luxury need not have a price Comfort itself is a luxury. 59 GEOFFREY BEENE

Your Own Special Occasion he rarest and best occasion of

Tl

Make

yourself.

I

week;

a date with yourself

but

set aside that

idea even further and find time for yourself at

weekly

basis.

—go

it's

just

an hour

for

it.

One

thing

is

for certain:

and

let

half

that's sacro-

cup

of

bay leaves

a

in

warm

bath. Sit

in

WINTER CARE:

Winter skin

rooms

skin pays the price.

blotchy, red, itchy,

and

tie

It

tight. In a

is

basil,

them up

in

can help transform our mood. Comfort clothes break

through the routine of the everyday, whether

it's

the

symbolic wearing of an old sweater or T-shirt or the

self-

indulgence of a luxurious for comfort clothes

you are drawn idea

mint,

We

centered for that

and

night.

your face

becomes

Wear

raw,

chapped,

gets angry.

and soothe. Avoid products Consider a more gentle cleansing

The

oil

Other to

into

bath water.

RELIEF. Put 5- 10 drops of clove

In

the bath, quarter a lemon

1

tips?

strawberries

When

outdoors, wrap a scarf around

protect sensitive capillaries from breaking.

and keep you from

squinting (another cause of wrinkles). Fight

dry indoor heat with humidifiers. Gently

s^

_^#

exfoliate

dead

cells

to

routine, like using a mild milk cleanser with luke-

breathe and regenerate.

warm

it's

water and a moisturizing mask to replenish and nourish irritated skin. Try specially formulated oils

and

lotions

stances like lavender

and

heal.

turizer

A heavier,

can lock

in

made from

natural sub-

and rose water

to

calm

non-water-based mois-

moisture and protect

wind and cold. The delicate skin on your lips and eyes needs special attention. Use a lip balm and an eye cream day against

and rub

and drink a cup of ginger tea. Go figure.

sunglasses to protect your eyes

^^^

will benefit.

the juicy side under each armpit. Follow up by eating

running.

rules of winter: Protect

with alcohol.

to

FOR HEADACHE

of

thyme, sage, and chamomile,

is

criterion

that they suit your inner style so well

and not only you but the people around you

to battle the frigid cold,

it

The only

to feel

a cheesecloth bag, and suspend the

about extremes.

word,

is

silky slip.

them again and again and again. unencumbered and gloriously selfbrief amount of time. You deserve it,

that

RELIEF. Take a teaspoon each

dill,

is

The

bag under the bathtub tap while the water

tub for 15 minutes.

leave parched, overheated

and our

rosemary,

water

Remove leaves, pour

steep for twenty minutes.

the liquid into

pint of boiled

full

What we wear

FOR MENTAL

POWER BATH. FOR MUSCLE RELIEF. Place a

Take the home on

an afternoon, or maybe every season a

sanct, or

day

Whether

a

time and hire

baby-sitters for the kids if necessary.

a

one day

museum wander-

can be a lunch, a

it

ing, whatever,

time for

all is

allow the skin

And

just

to

because

20 below, don't forget to put on a sun-

screen:

Snow and

ice reflect

harmful

Winter color? Most women's skin than usual

-^

in the winter.

a lighter-colored

UV rays. is

paler

You might need

foundation until the

Reduce paleness ^y with rosv blush hues. Add depth around the eves with deeper shadows, and find a good moisturizing lipstick. |

sun makes

its

return.

mm I've had my

best times

when

trailing a

Mainbocher evening gown across a sawdust floor. Fve always loved high

style in

ANITA LOOS

chapter sere it

low company.**

dress cod While the dress code

in

the United States has

have become more confusing. Creative black at the opera are just

ing pages.

some

tie,

relaxed, invitations

Western weddings, and a night

of the occasions you'll find explained in the follow-

Our most important piece

..

become more

HIP

of advice?

Wear what

feels

WEDDING ON MOUNT TAM

She wondered if she ought to call her friend Carol and ask what to wear. Martha had said 'dress down, but that could mean anything from Marie Antoinette milkmaid from The Electric Poppy to bias-cut denims from Moody Blues... '

Now

the

problem was Harvey, w/io absolutely refused to go to Mount Tarn in the French jeans kale had bought him for his birthday

weddings which was

fine

She knew he'd wear his Pierre (an/in suit. two years ago but which was now establishment... Wk

A

77

CYRA MCFADDEN, The Serial (1977)

good on you.

thought

If I

<•<•

my

epitaph would read

HOSTESS I'd refuse to die. 55 BARBARA HOWAR

h

okH

II

[faQ]

10 w

Mill

\\

["0

WEAR

radii ionalh w hite

I

has

been reserved soleh bride,

and

nl

the

1

\\

'i,M

parts

consider

rude

it

ithout

I

bride, h ^

I

li-

\\

1—

i

s la

1

ila\.

--ii

ilu

be

ih<-

a^

as

the

drill:

youi

Oi

ii

oh, you think.

know how

Yfou

know

jumps out

at

you with a

to "save tin- date."

will

I

wear? Relax.

It

Uhyou

to read

an imitation, you have valu-

able clues in Mini

hand before you even open

the

envelope or read

a

word. Thick, ecru-

mal the

black can

1

sophistii ated if

I

je» eh

bilk

more

invitation, the

li

\

11

Foi

mal the

more

togethers Ol

dress.

hosier plans short nolle

FORMAL INVITATIONS Formal

wedding

tations,

invitations

usually

e,

a

"save the date-" notifications.

dinner part]

she might

oi

If

a

get-together on

call niicsts to

extend

invi-

(hen follow up with a formal "to remind"

note that details the

date-, lime-,

and possibh the

diess. Kei riving

same holds

fed opportunity to ask your hostess. "What are

1

1

-It

ual

1

01 invitations to

biations 01 presentation

wedding

invitation

or pale pastel papi

is

formal anniversary balls.

A more

cas-

an invitation

bv

phone

is

the per-

we wearing?"

often primed on white

HANDWRITTEN INVITATIONS

i

loi handwritten invitations, the si/e of the enve-

INFORMAL INVITATIONS Colored envelopes indicate

finer points of enter-

are

fol

engraved on heavj ecru-colored paper. The

such as a barbecue

be a dressy one, but that your

and hostess know the

.1

a beautiful

the occasion

will

1

ith peat

colored paper normally denotes not only that

host

178

What

1

ami

a rln.

taining. Generally, the latei the hour, the

A ihiik vellum envelope .hums with name and address in swirls of calligraphy.

commanding message

II

what-toweai prob-

emerges from your mailbox.

a bright postcard

i- ol

how mil upon

sparked «

READ AN INVITATION a

pai

choice, especially

loi

lem

be

ami

Chances are you can spot

some

to l<«>k linn

i>llr~.

HOW TO

WEAR

IX)

you take special care not

to

consulting

1

VN

but in

still

« car w hite to a w edding \\

ok

1

deep South h mighl

the

oldei people

v

1

BLACK TO Wl DDINt Ves

for the

mam

in

•••ill

I-

[faQ]

DDINGS?

1

is

usuallv

sent

01 a

onh

lope gives you a clue to the nature of the event less

costume

tor the

formal occasions, party.

A

postcard

most casual of get-

!

i

i

ome. The

the invitation

larger the envelope, the

more

(

osth

and postage. Thus you mav assume-

that vour host has spared

no expense

for the

-

-

i

planned event. Translation: You are expected

The problem comes

dress up. far

is

up.

When

in

to

knowing how

in

doubt, telephone your hostess

When unaccompasingles often

nied, feel

\s

They may

also feel

DAI

\

uncomfortable. \\

for advice.

I'm i\\

ii

IfaQ]

DO\'l

When

an invitation says RSVP,

should

the host

let

the event.

Repondez

It

know

if

you

means you

it

will

be attending

stands for the French

s'il

vous

meaning

plait,

phrase "Please

invite

to

of

their

if

feel that

"RSVP: regrets only."

fine for a host to fol-

sary to have a date.

people are so busy unin-

may be more fun to work the room

Sometimes people put

than baby-sit some-

low up with a phone

call, as

nowadays that sometimes an invitation tentionally overlooked.

off If

opening

you

invite

is

it is

one who knows no

someone over

may

one at the event. Another option is

consider following up with a

pom

in rim lire,

the

French phrase for a reminder note.

your host

to ask

many other

A WORD TO THE WISE Do not toss the envelope tation.

Wedding

gifts

should always be sent to the return address on the back flap of the envelope.

Unless the host

upon

in

matchmaking and

it's

agreed

have

the

option of inviting a date or escort to an event, especially

if

there

argue that when

is

it's

Some

extra

or,

Inline

ii So

—Short

women may want

vel-

dress, cocktail suit, or dressy

to

when manv

change only

and open

Cocktail casual

sweater

want

cocktail

their shoes or

their jackets to reveal a

— Slacks

or skirt with a nice

or blouse, or fine

knit

separates.

to

up with

a il

\

our-

and became «

Urban drop

tth the

chic



Basically,

someone's

in at

The term denotes

a

wear what von wear to

home on

Friday night.

host's desire that

is

a safe bet.

— Means you

need

to gussv up.

Weal simple, comfortable clothes but the

oi

it.

If

most annoying there

is

Otherwise, il

a

theme

call

it's

your

around

is

bla< k silk

pants or a twinsel with trousers and

attire

— Women might wear long caftans.

dressy

pants or very dressy cocktail

tie,

long dress or ultradress,

and sundresses.

mi hi pajamas. Capri pants,

Do

not wear SwimSUitS unless vour bosiess

specifically

— Like

lake j orful,

c

commands

ii.

and then be sure

over-up. Accessoi ies

i

when she awoke, in high spirits she would raze the elothes closets, empty the trunks, tear apart the allies, and wage a war of separation against the piles of clothing that had been seen too often, the hats she had never worn because there had been no occasion to wear them while they were still in fashion... She would say: 'Someone should invent something to do with things you cannot use anymore but that you still cannot throw out. ^9 Love

in the

Time of Cholera

to

an be bold, col-

and cheap.

that on a morning

GABRIEL garcia MARQUEZ,

It

pearls.

I

Formal

more

the perfect time for a great white shin and

Pool

evening pants.

in

luxurious fabrics or fun patterns and colors.

dress.

dress or great

you

show up dressed comfortably: not too dressy, but not sloppy, and nol in work clothes \ll black

tie

black

shantung,

parties are scheduled immediatelv after work,

Dressy casual

— Long or short dressy optional — Shorl dress)

tie

they don't know.

card.

Halloween, wear a long dress and a mask.

Black

silk

dressy camisole top.

you enjoyed

an explanation. Or.

an intimate occasion they

money on someone

imi

if

(luau, '50s, Titanic), slate

tie

worse, don't want to spend the

gift,

DRESS CODE

for

night than day.

and cashmere.

accessories,

persona] note

probably one

at

Festive jewelry, shoes, scarf, or belt.

rriendl)

host

vet,

pants, often in black. Today,

is

tin-

inav

couple.

Black

be dancing.

don't want strangers present (black-tie wedding or birthday)

Nun

DECIPHERING THE

hosts

to

brine die

ill

Maine on

requests to ask oi youi guests.

is

w

self

is

In the

may mean bolder jewelry and simple

Cocktails

YoUT dale

include vour

singles

Creative black

advance, singles should

BRINC

I

\i>.

are invited.

This

SINGLES ONLY?

I.I)

required to

that contains the invi-

and thank you notes

live.

|'|,|...

although he

It

lost.

where you

means pants and a nice

sweater or blouse, dressier

GIFT?

\

neces-

their mail or an invitation gets

the phone, you

k\()\\

usually

it

clothes in special fabrics like

you

respond." Avoid sending invitations reading It's

Ml

SHOl

don't

single,

— Depends on

suburbs

Dressier

status.

Alternately,

are fine.

Informal

disrespectful

is

are

\

a I

date

Usually refers to an evening event, so sequins

i)

i

in

WEDDING

INI.

option

i

\\l)

l)l)l\(,

I

that not having the

RSVP

i

I.

Academy Awards

.

Even an outfit

in

the most conservative of cuts .ireshoullers with

develops atti-

a

©

spectacular

wrap

is

tude when

A camisole andstrappy

not

lambskin.

shoes soften

only dramatic

it's

made in supple

up a tailored

but practical.

pantsuit

<•<•

Fashion needs

things to do

and places to go. 55 f.rN

Formal

BILL BL ASS

events are times to dazzle,

and nothing

does

it

better than gold,

Part of the fun

is

that

t

He scene has evolved into a fashion slum of

most glamorous evening

showrooms and

attire. Stylists to

the

the stars stout designer

jewelers to find the perfect outfit

and

aci essories so

Artists are creative

you can

feel

less

and often determine then own fashion code, so anxious about your own fashion choice. These

events are usually held after work, so suits are popular, although

they can score high fashion marks with the press and fans. If you are

a great opportunity to

one of the luckv attendees, be sure you wear clothes

want

real you, as

walking

in

opposed

to

what somebody

is

that express the

saying.

And

practice

those high heels and slinky dress to be sure you can

your entrance in a relaxed manner.

180 Chic:

else

make

10 chess

your

wear something more cutting edge.

suit up,

it's

you

change into a camisole, ditch the big bag

for a smaller whimsical one,

sensible ones (yet bear in

II

and trade your sensible shoes

mind

that

for less

you may be standing for hours).

Garden Party

A white dress can look

5

demure or

\

Sometimes the

dramatic,

dress code

depending on doesn't require

how you

/

dressing up, but accessorize.

you may still

want to look a

/

little

silk

special.

scarf

A

and

quality

acces-

sories

may be

all

you need

to

add to your

weekend clothes.

Elaborate traditions are often in evidence

at

equestrian events or at

homecoming football games, where sumptuous picnics are not uncommon. There may be tablecloths, candelabras, and fabulous food. In fact, at some events, prizes are awarded for presentation. Clothes are often

stylish, yet casual.

slacks with sweater sets,

for dirt or

and

mud. Don't wear

Women

fine accessories.

might wear tailored

Shoes should be sturdy

riding gear unless you are riding.

Silk, linen,

or fine cotton sundresses long or short and slightly bare

look wonderful. White and pastel prints also look great in a garden. Hats are optional, though they are functional and

stylish

outdoors.

Avoid spiky heels or you'll sink into the ground. Consider wearing a citrus fragrance

from the neck up (you want

to stand

out from the

scent of the surrounding garden), and off! from the neck down.

Don't forget your sunglasses, especially as the sun begins

to set.

q'-

When you are wearing something

glittery,

you don't need

much jewelry to compete. Keep it

r

Q)

simple.

Wearing all red is

sexy and will

definitely attract

attention,

unless every-

one else has the same idea.

a dress is

If

You'll

ing

all

be dancnight,

Be you

so

don't need a

make sure

necklace.

shoes are

Then again.

comfortable.

not?

S

Debutantes are required gloves. Guests should not. yet

to It

.

is

fine.

you are the mother, long

events where one can get realty dressed up anymore.

Choose

cut sheath

— simple

is

appropriate,

Long

chiffons and florals

silky

182 Chic Simple

If

also

of the few

Women who

attend these regularly need a wardrobe of evening dresses, and

mone) to wear ones that are memorable. The more woman, oi the one who has less need for them, may choose

a strappy or strapless dress, or a bias-

often have the

adorned with heading or jewelry. look good in summer; velvet and silk

practical

you're not the deb, don't wear white.

sories

yet elegantly

sheaths look great in winter.

one

Charit) balls are glamorous fundraisers.

ballgowns are matronly. Friends can wear short, dress) dresses,

although long

They are

wear long white dresses with long white

to

wear a simple long black sheath that can be transformed by acces-

and

hair,

[fyou have the jewelry,

this

is

the time to wear

it.

Theater

A suit in a tropicalweight wool can be

A pantsuit has the

worn most months

formality of a

except perhaps

man's suit, but

the very hottest

a relaxed cut and

and

a soft fabric with a

coldest.

in

decorative pattern

it

becomes

less severe.

Travel with a

bag

enough to

large

accommodate Sexy stiletto

youron-the-go

slides give

essentials but not

a surprising

overly large or

heavy, which result in

back.

an

twist to

may

con-

servative

injured

wear.

Stow a

smaller one

'•

The

better the

inside, for times

shoes, the more

when you don't

elegant the

—even

need to schlepp

look

everything.

when comes to it

practical loafers.

Women who

travel

from

city to city

expertise in packing. Dallas chic sarily the

same

ously, invest in ric

thing.

on business need

and New York

To ensure your

one exquisite

suit. Its

to

develop an

chic are not neces-

business attire

is

taken

(which doesn't wrinkle without a fight), and neutral color

your uniform. Depending on the

city

will

be

and the event, you can change

—or even go bare underneath.

the shoes, the bag, or the shirt

seri-

superb tailoring, seasonless fab-

general!} casual about theater dress, especially

Everyone

is

mance

a matinee. Pants are typically paired with a

is

sweater or blouse for a

on

to a

up—even

the pei for-

will

good

be going

afterward. For weeknighl theater dates,

they wore to work.

suit

il

ket or a

weekend performance, unless you

more formal dinner

most people wear the

ja<

On on

opening night expet

i

to a cast party or

if it's

linked to a benefit gala afterward. In this case you could wear your

good

to dress

pantsuit, dressed

formally

up with

a

if you

are going

beaded top and your very

best accessories,

<§>'

A well-tailored suit in

a neutral color

and modest cut is appropriate for

The wrap most interviews.

It

adds

waist

should be your

A roomy,

number one work

classic tote

clothes investment.

shape to your body.

in

quality

leather

bespeaks efficiency.

Whenm doubt,

call

ahead to the

human resources

department

for

dress code guidelines.

.

Instant

evening

companies

means always having

with relaxed

a pair of sheer black stockings on hand.

dress codes.

And what a great opportunity to wear

your special coat.

Always wear

.1

suil in a

neutral tone like gray, navy, black, 01 beige.

Stick with wrinkle-free fabrics

and knee-length

skirts.

Keep

acces-

minimum and stav away from high or clunky shoes. Hair and makeup should be neat and subdued. Keep a pair of hosiers in

sories to a

you] bag



just in case.

Try to

fit

your

style to

the place

where you're

interviewing, but don't wear something you would never normall)

wear

—your discomfort

will

show. Err on the conservative side.

I'sualh people

come

light

from work wearing

a suil.

The

ballet or

opera may be dressier on opening night or on weekends (date night).

may

A

pretty dress or evening suit will do. If

call for

big-time black

your watch alarm. dress code in Fe,

No

Europe

tie.

it's

a fundraiser,

it

Don't wear noisy jewelry, and turn off

The Same

big hats, high hair, or intense perfume. is

dressier than in the United States. In

performances are held outdoors and the dress code

is

casual.

184 Chic Simple

i~

i

Auction

Velvet

is

a

rich winter fabric that

can be worn day or night, but

it

A shirt worn open over a

demands upkeep: Clean at the end

of the

season

dry cleaning

is

camisole

—too much

bad

for

a

is

an alternative to

summer cover-up.

any gar-

ment. Store on padded hangers.

Steaming will help revive

crushed

pile.

Parties are times

when you can wear the bold patterns and bright colors that

are inappropriate to

wear to the

office.

.!

* Summer party shoes can be flat,

strappy,

and colorful comfort

An

auction at one of the finer houses such as Christie's or Sotheby's

can be a glamorous evening event where there

is

as

much

interest in

the fashions in the audience as in the goods on the auction block.

Think of the Jackie dressing to

a

go

less

all

O estate or the Princess of Wales dress sales. Also,

up may convince your bidding opponent the way

and

that

you have the money

glamorous auction, wear a day

suit

to

that

you are willing

back up your

or even a pantsuit.

bid.

For

It's

party time, even

wear lh.it

sets

the mood,

if it's

lives.

key.

a low-key potluck dinner.

up

so dress things

getting together with friends

our busy

is

Consider adapting

is



And whal you

at least a little bit. It signals

and joyous moment in one of the following ele-

a special

at least

ments: evening pants, mules, bold jewelry, an off-the-shoulder sweater with your casual clothes. Things get dressier written invitations,

and even dressier when

when

there are

invitations are engraved.

Rock Concert

Club Hopping

Short, lightweight

dresses are perfect for a night

@-

out on the town.

An evening bag should be small:

Some people think

all

you need

to carry is

a

$100 bill, a lipstick, and your keys. -

Rugged and built

jeans are a

rock

'n' roll

Never skimp on shoes:

If

your feet

are unhappy, the rest of you

especially

For something new, try

is

only

if

sexy

skin

you're

supposed to be out

a one-shoulder

top. Revealing a

follows— if

club hopping.

littli-

—but

your arms are

sexy on their own.

[eans .uc the uniform of choice |.k

kcis or pants have

in

something

«i

more

rock concerts, although leathei

as basic as a T-shirt or

top. If the concert

screen, shades,

is

and

something strapp) and

outdoors during

a hat. If indoors,

thing undi'i your jacket.

186 Chic:

at

sophisticated attitude. You'll feel right

t

ii

lit-

day,

remembei

sex)

on

water, sun-

might get hot, so weai some-

This dress.

is

the time

i<>

look sexj

01

Whethei you're swinging

smoke-filled room, have, the hotter

il

feminine



in

should be somewhat bare

and sweatier

other words, wear a

to a hot Latin beat

you'll get (bring

or flirting

in a

— the more fun vou

your compact). Shoes

should be comfortable, perhaps with an ankle strap and shorter heel.

Court Appearance

Silk is

K

shantung

summer chic,

A classic double-

making this sim-

breasted

ple dress ideal for

translates well

daytime

Keep makeup

parties,

I

sensible and

polo matches. i

low-key.

in

the legal world.

and accessories weddings, and

skir

I

A beaded bag will

take this

day dress to a late-afternoon

or evening party.

-

The higher the shoes, the dressier. Don't for-

get a pedicure.

9 9 Here

am, a

I

attorney being told in slacks

I

can

woman t

practice law

by a judge dressed

••

in drag.

FLORYNCE KENNEDY, Sappho Was a Right-on Woman

Besides sightseeing clothes, evening clothes are required. cruises in general are getting dressier.

more

Caribbean cruises are

less

Though

conservative.

formal than European. There

Avoid

are usually two or three dressy nights

on

a seven-day cruise,

where

long or short cocktail dresses are required. Other evenings a pants outfit or a simple dress nights are the least formal.

is

Unless you're Ally McBeal. your clothing and accessories should be

casual, the better the ship, the

perfect. Usually the

first

and

hist

A

suit in gray, navy,

dark brown, or black

flash) fabrics, brilliant colors,

sible leather

pumps, not your sandals or sneakers. Aim

gent and responsible, and appear

to

is

appropriate.

and loud jewelry. Wear your senhold the court

to

look

in respect.

intelli-

Museum

Party

A slightly off the shoulder neckline is

extremely

flattering,

and Astrappy

looks pretty

dress that without looking

moves easily

overtly sexy. is

great for

dancing.

The square geometry of the gold bracelets gives this dress

a modem edge.

:<$:

Self-confidence is

a requirement

at

a class reunion

that's

pj Comfortable

pumps

why it's

are sexy important to feel essentials for

good about what dressing up. you're wearing.

Many reunions

are a time to check each othei out

and

see

how

well

evei yone has aged. They're usually semiformal dinner events, so you

may want

to

wear a

fitted jacket or something

not too revealing. Black or midnight blue

ming, especially good

if

is

a

little

more

sophisticated and slim-

you're worried about those few extra

pounds. Wear some great accessories, but don't overdo sleep the night before.

hate hut

it.

Get a good

When

the

01 navj silk 01 II

<

word "museum"

01 ktail dresses are

wool

<

Metropolitan

ation.

an event, think old guard. Black

good choices, and now dressy

pantsuits in

icpe are popular. Accessories should always be your best.

\ou ate invited

wearing the

figures in

to a gala ball at the

Museum

latest

As long as

Costume

ot Art. you'll notice

women

Institute

very dressed up,

designer statement or something of their

it's

of the

own

cre-

glamorous, anything goes.

188 Chic Simple

_L

Funeral/Wake/Sitting Shiva

Christening/Bris

A modest coatdress

in

navy

pinstripes

\§ A new classic

(

—the

is

peacoat

sailor's

is

elegant and

transformed

into

reflects the

glamorous day solemnity of

wear when

luxuri-

ously cut

a fine

the occasion. knit

in

and alluring

color.

66 Does fashion

matter?

Always though not quite as (Qi Black really

it's

much

navy

Otherwise

after

able wardrobe

basics that you can slip

death.

too hard to

find

A knit dress and pearls are comfort-

do work

well with blue.

r

pumps

another

navy that

^^

on for a variety of

events that require dressier clothes than slacks, yet less

JOAN RIVERS

dressy than your

matches.

splashy party clothes.

Unless you are a

Subdued sion

is

member of the

bereaved family, black

colors like navy or gray are appropriate.

The

is

not required.

spirit

of the occa-

solemn, so avoid flamboyant jewelry, short dresses, or overly

dressy or attention-getting fashion. Traditional attire includes skin suits,

more

coatdresses, casual,

and day

some opt

dresses, although as the

for pants, especially

graveside

and the weather

polished,

good shoes

is

if

the

country

ceremony

is

getting

is

at the

inclement. Consider wearing your old, yet

in case the

ground

is

muddy.

If you

wear waterproof and tuck a few extra handkerchiefs

in

wear mascara,

your bag.

For these events, the family usually gathers with friends, particularly those

held

church and are

at a

chosen

something you would wear

male babies and

God. For

girls,

there

A good

dress or suit

to church.

signifies the

may be

a

is

in the

in

i

suit

lunch

at

the

home

the proper choice

which she

home

is

blessed with

or synagogue and are

followed by. buffet meal. At home, wear a dress or

wear a

close

The bris is the ritual of circumcibond between Jewish males and

baby naming

her Hebrew name. These take place

and

relatives

be the godparents. Christenings are

usually followed bv a buffet

of tlte parents or godparents.

sion for

to

skit

t;

in a

synagogue,

or dress that would be appropriate for religious services.



White House

Invitation

(Q) Black is elegant, yet

;.

with shape,

a little extra

sparkle zling

will

ing line

especially

be daz-

on the

Wear a jacket

when on tele-

receiv-

vision, or your

and the

body will look

dance floor.

ill-defined.

because it's the

Just

ice you've

ever been invited to

does

not

mean that

you have to drape yourself

<Q) Red takes you

in jewelry.

to centerstage,

Picking one special

piece or

—drop

but

earrings

a special neck-

may vibrate in the

—and adding a

lace

small evening

beware

too bright a red

camera's eye.

bag and

your best shoes

will

allow you to shine.

If

you're invited, congratulations!

We

wish we were too. All in

.ill.

New York and Los bin avoid Angeles. Color is welcome, ballgowns are not uncommon revealing clothes and avant-garde fashion statements. Then again, check out who is dressing the First Lady and who is being honored. Our Washington, D.C.,

is

more

conservative

in

dicss than



invitee

wore a long black-and-white

silk

check

skirt

shirt and black velvet jacket. If in doubt, inquire

with a black

when you RSVP.

silk T-

Vppeai in will

.ii

ease (wearing clothes von feel comfortable

help).

Wearing something colorful

will set

your audience, and from other speakers. attracts attention

and

can elongate your body. skin gets shiny

and wear

A

signals self L assurance. If

bright color like red

Muted

you're going to be on TV,

and patterns tend

and confident

yourself apart from

vertical stripes

remember

that

arms and

legs

to vibrate, so cover

solid colors.

1

_L

Communion and Confirmation

Bar/Bat Mitzvah

A sweater set is a relaxed, feminine alternative to a tailored jacket.

=S '

(Q)

Colorful ballet

slippers offer

a relief

Celebrations don't

from heels and look

mean you have to

great with a variety of

bare in

all



especially

J

a place of wor-

ship.

summer outfits.

A long-

sleeved frock lush fabric

in

a

can be

beautifully stylish just don't

skimp on

the accessories.

These ceremonies mark the time when a Jewish child becomes an adult after years of studying is

Hebrew and Torah.

cause for celebration, and

festivities

In the Jewish faith this

continue after the service with

prayers over wine and bread, and often a buffet.

include a lunch or an evening

good day

suit

affair.

The

To a morning

party might

service,

wear

a

or dress, making sure your shoulders are covered. At

night, a big parrs' calls for a party dress or pants (glitter

are expected: Family

and

fine). Gifts

adults traditionally give money, savings

bonds, or jewelry. Classmates might give clothing, or fitness stores.

is

gift certificates to

music,

These are ceremonies place

among

the

which Christian boys and

in

members of

girls take their

the church congregation, and guests

should wear the same dress they would for conservative religious vices.

A

long

coverings are

and

skirt, a

pretty dress, or a pantsuit

no longer

is

appropriate; head

required. After the church services, family

close friends are usually invited to the parents'

vate club for lunch.

ber Godfather

II

ceremonies are

Some

ser-

home

or to a pri-

families celebrate with gala affairs

— although

— remem-

these are unusual. Because most of these

in late spring, light

spring clothes are in order.

Wedding Guest he bride herseU ma.) be wear-

1

ing

pa ntn iil

dress 01

shorl

.1

nowadays, so guests have

Although

options.

hl.uk

acceptable

.lie

couno

.in. is ol the

more

traditional

and

pkw

mosi

in

musts

y,

in

es like the

Shoulders

coloi

South weai

more

white

should be covered during the i

(unions

in a Jewish san< tuary,

removed during

be

can

cover-up

the

but

the reception.

worn

Ciulsi.nl dresses are often

loi evening weddings, although long dresses and dress] p. mis

are

also

populai

are

dresses

@- An elegant dark

acceptable.

Suits

weddings, bul s.iw the

glittei

dress with glim-

and beading and sheen

mering acces-

evening weddings.

sories

is

festive,

not mournful.

dress

foi

.1

<>i

da)

t<>i

foi

Often

the

rehearsal dinnei

Uss subdued than

i«>i

an

is

after-

noon wedding. Long evening sknis. palazzo pants and o< k <

tail

dresses

.n<-

appropriate.

Ingredients for a

££Mv

dressy pantsuit: shape, sheen, and fine

boyfriend

In

button details.

a metallic lame or

taffeta,

and

I

broke up.

there

is

no

confusion as to

whether pants are appropriate for an

He wanted to get married,

and I didn't want him to. 192 Chic Simple

RITA

55 RUDNER

evening wedding or rehearsal dinner.

Maternity

Turtlenecks provide no-fuss style



in

black

cashmere they're considered comfort clothes.

"..heck

treads on

our athletic shoes

before your departure.

With regular

use, sneakers

should be replaced every 200-300 miles.

Forget dowdy.

A

mom-to-be need only

be proud

of her

new curva-

ceous figure, especially

in stylish

basics fit for two.

First

the waist goes,

no longer

fit.

and then

When

it

doesn't stop. Your breasts get fuller and your clothes

accumulating maternity clothes, use basic wardrobe principles:

Build around a neutral color; pieces should be interchangeable; darker colors are

slimming and work with a

get you through both dressy

gings

will

make

the difference.

demand

variet) of brighter colors

style.

Now

Though

there are

and

patterns.

A dark skirt and leg-

and more casual occasions. The tops are what

more

clothes available for pregnant

tradition calls for covering

up with

women who

loose clothes, those with

great bodies (Jada Pinkett Smith, Elle MacPherson) choose to celebrate their

fortune by wearing stretch dresses that hug the body. private celebration,

your

skirt shorter.

still

Whv

not? But

consider showing off your good points.

Or consider baring mum

il

If it's

you

like a

your

legs,

good more wear

shoulders or newly enhanced decolletage.

fewelrj can be bolder, drawing eves to your radiant face.

The

goal

itation,

is

physical

and

makeup,

and

spiritual rejuvenation

mean you

vet that doesn't

your best

at all

times

that's

wh) you're there.

turtleneck, polarfleece vest, sweatpants

early

Basically,

you need

activities: leotard, tights,

shoes topped bv layers for early-morning treks

hold the layers of clothes you peel

morning

may mean

chill

jeans

fortable loafers.

You

also

off as the living

a cotton shin,

may need



T-shirt,

Bring along a backpack to

sun burns

and you burn off calories hiking

worn with

and

don't want to feel you are looking

comfortable clothes for the various physical athletic

through exercise, med-

a healthy low-cal diet, lis not about fashion, hair,

cashmere

uphill.

sweater,

oil

the

Dinner

and com-

a light jacket or fleece sweater.

V

r^

d

\^J GENERAL GUIDELINES

^j

Geography was

nearly

isn't

important as

.is

determining how we

in

exposed

more and more

to

We're

dress.

same

the

oi

ences, and inevitably our tastes have

mote

geographical distinctions

much in what we choose to wear .is how we wear In ordei not to look it.

when

is

apply

still

all

influ-

become

Formal dress

global, less local.

once

it

where

— not

so

when and

in

like a tOUl

1st

traveling to another region lot business, a

special occasion, oi

even

holiday,

a

parts

the United Stales

<>l

chesser

be able

will

wardrobe

to suit

,u\{\

the wen

remix

to

bet

which

(in

existing

bash

(.ise

coverage,

much

skin

something nice to

be fancy, but

people change tries

much on

in

most

that

i.uii

so that

loi inblv

no

e

eities

and

\ciii will

be able

bend mum

to

gs

It

an) urban area,

do not weai

and me eh

hen

traveling to

shorts (unless the)

tailored),

shn

I

lothes,

c

\\

\i

c

e

business attire

sneakers.

almost always called lot), you are traveling i"

and experience othei cultures when going

see

abroad, "Respect"

the operative word.

is

Some

genera] notes: •

tries I

— ate

no

more conservative

Longei

LS.

— especially no shOl

skit ts.

Read

ciislonis ol

will feel



hosts.

of head covering,

aie

a

to find out the

vci

\

it

Style in cities in

is

specific

whenever you are

Slip-on

leet

— or

is

rural areas.



pre-

lie

chess

visiting a religious site.

I

some combination thereof

shrines and mosques,

.is

you

will

weal slippers or socks inside.

A

lor

visiting

be expected to scarf

can be

instant hat, convenient foi respecting local 1

loms.

194

a

ik

:

;imple



Steer deal

he

bead, aims.

shoes can be very useful

ol

than

Othei

Fundraising

events

often

these-

cspee

in

Women

cities,

cocktail

weai

the

ot

p. u Is

Midwest.

place

take-

cos-

quite

on weekends.

lallv

chesses en

Vccessories are chessv

satin. se

.uves.

glove-s, velvet I

and

shawls,

c

.01

us-

native dress unless you

wealing khakis and

aih\

women m

deep browns, midnight

Midwest

navies,

Weddings are

m-iv

an elaborate

party.

ale-

a

Wang

wenkclav casual look,

the-

swe.ilei sets.

here

festive

Because-

ine

Us

il

wen kplace (whit h

is

widel)

at

oi

— an

dresses

with

po|>ten

v

Armani

lllai

and

and dark pui

epted

pies

the

whethei

Chicago,

loi

suit

are

the-

at a

it's

casual bullet or more- forma] setting. Dicsse

an evening

llie-ic-

srada. long

1

cocktail

dancing.

Donna Karan veiv

is

Ralph Lauren. Zegna even



for

is

also verj

in the- hail, aie vol

always

someone

hair ext lusive

Iv

loi

at

en

sleek,

pop-

v

the ban

weddings.

weai Ivle-i.

dav

most

suits,

typically

l>v

Carolina Herrera, Armani, or

Miscellaneous Peo]

!e

and a

little

s

seated

dining. Even in the most lavish ol apartments,

we, ii exercise

e

lothes to run errands in

Chicago Evening bags are not

preferred clothes. In very

oil

be clothing Inn

is

ai

lub. en

Ralph Lauren.

Social

is

a lot ol

black, often I

e

Graduation

en

example, there

pi ivale

in regional

people an- entertaining more frequently like to dress festively,

oi

who does

salon

wedding.

black.

parts ol the Midwest, including Minneapolis),

home and

Ivler

Richaicl

long

weai

their filth

taken

jackets,

do weai

Cue-sis

excuse lor

Carolina Herrera, Chanel

short,

big. Bridal pearls,

casualness ol e

lot

farm. Business associates

en

included, (.nests weal

Richaicl

leasing

hole aie a

most popular. Receptions are

is

vei

Home

the

ol

1

Brides usuall)

even

weekend house

are-

Guests Entertaining at

In

women

cities,

Weddings

velvet

formal chess

loi the-

suits.

in

day-to-evening looks

ol

Velvet

and headed evening bags are

be popular eolois

men

and unique.

wraps, cashmere

stoles,

to

pantsuits

black-tie events in ehessv fabrics like velvet

often less

rules regarding

usual code involves covering youi

and

Chicago and Detroit ate mote

Black-tie

Sometimes wedding band can disrouiagc 1111•

an- comfortable with

the Font Seasons. Rit/ Carlton, a

ular.

traveling alone.

work

tin

Vera

both

conservative than

legs,

so will mill

up

chess

Fundraisers

mopolitan

and

legion. il areas. In (hie ago

the-

women

Detroit,

MIDWEST (CHICAGO AND DETROIT)

should dress more

when

wanted attention.

leu

rules.

the place you are visiting.

women

Generally,

wealing

basic

the-

more comfortable, and

conservatively

pared

— these

guidebook before you go

a

specific

You

feel

diess than the

in

no low-cut blouses,

Is,

some kind

light clothing,

shoes on your

developing coun-

aids.

the Midwest chtlei between the

lollies in

while- chesses,

Cities like

Most countries

do sit-down dinners at e

etnbla/oned

Is

pi foi

REGIONAL

is

use- plat e

Minneapolis and othei regional does not

tourist

a

one

to look like

While there

11.

chinking, martinis and

aie popular. People

i-4.il s

restaurants and

Mm chess appropriately and com-

Bool

a

little

S

I

busi-

lot

i

norm. Cocktails

the

aie-

home- by

at S.

to.isis .mil

Work Woik

lothes ten dinner. In

because vou are

|itst

mean you have aie long

aie

without being ioo revealing.

to the side

\nd

how

dinner

7.

some counOl mat; Us

c

you max be eating on

mi pi n

at

Bung



outside the

plat es

aie

doesn't have

It

eatmg

bullets with lap

has

that

the beach

the evening.

foi

suit

you're sure about

until

too

is

one bathing

least

at

with logos, oi athletic

her destination.

Unless you're traveling overseas ness

\ s.ivvv

Id,

Bring

some-

ma\ be

il

helpful to understand charactei Mies ol different



can look patronizing and

h

otherwise,

learn Silly.

Forest,

lilc

lot

revolves

of entertaining

people are

that important.

around the Chicago

still

is

Bulls

corporate. In Lake-

entertaining with seated

dinners and place cards

at

home.

NORTHEAST (BOSTON) Fashionwise, there

a division between suburban

is

and urban women. The suburban woman slightly

more

conservative

and wears brighter

and lower hemlines. The

Ors

trencher fashions, in

city

woman

more subdued

ity

women

functions, most

evening dress but personalize jacket



say,

a lace bolero.

which gives

wear a

will

It is

it

prefers

and

and

little

women most

and influence

views, power,

home.

Politics

is

magazines, and

the talk

city,

and trend

set-

may change, but and

journalist

come

more of Quinn's words of

back." For

wisdom, we recommend her book. The Guide

to

fortable than with being

are fashion-conscious yet iconoclastic. City

considered the fashion hub of

is

and many trends

the country,

The

start (here.

has international and cosmopolitan influ-

ences, which allow for the development and

acceptance of an individual's personal

evening functions, what

on the crowd they're

For

style.

women wear depends

with: For

most formal par-

long dresses with quality accessories the old-money society

set

will

openings and events,

and not

dress dramatically,

do

dresses simply

elegantly for black-tie charily functions;

glitterati-literati

fol

women

necessarily in a tradi-

fashion.

don't

long

Many women wear

women wear lines.

Many women

They may even

which contributes

style,

a hallmark of

New

Many

to

peosepa-

enormous personal

York dressing, dolors

it

rains constantly.

cities, fitter

West Coast

to the

and health-conscious:

riously

bad weather,

women who

there's an equal

number

of

avoid the outdoors and sports alto-

gether and lend to be overweight For formal

women lend to wear a classic hem to just above the knee; black or jewel

in

Leather backpacks and

tones.

Coach and Dooncv

soli

Burke shoulder bags are popular Structured

handbags

considered

are

formal.

overly

women

Accessories are where

indulge in being

fashionable: This season's chokei 01 branded belt

buckle

will

be the wav

a

woman

updates her look.

beige,

New

and

York

as

and

essentials.

much more

as

important

in

what you wear. Pedicures, mani-

cures, haircuts

brows are

Grooming

is

color,

and groomed

eye-

Suburban New Yorkers arc

THE ROCKIES (DENVER) Because the West athletics,

women

NORTHEAST (WASHINGTON, D.C.) The suit is key in D.C. and women wear color. The quilted Chanel-like bag is populai and the suit

is

through catalogs.

worn

after dark, dressed

is

oriented Inward outdoor

like

showing

figures with short hemlines

to the area,

no-nonsense

conch buttons. They

also

and

wear cowbov

silver

classics

such as frock and cavalry coats harking back to the

or

Women

1850s.

wear broomstick

typicallv

and matching Western jackets with nickel

skirts

silver

conch buttons

Western elegance. Other

to events that call for

women might wear

an

up

A lot of women buy clothing Women in D.C. also avoid

istic

Qashiness

charity fun<

Denver than

any other

theil

good

form-fitting

I'cxans

oi theii

the

to

There are more in

oil

and

mam

imparting some

fashion

art

form

Denver and can

in cities like

be very expensive indeed.

Weddings Western-style weddings are popular. Oftentimes

the bride

wear a cowbov hat with a

will

veil

These weddings can take place

attached.

at

country-Western bars or on top of Lookout

Mountain (the

and

burial spot of Buffalo Bill),

often feature authentic Navajo music bands.

Entertaining at

Home ple's

Home

entertaining often takes place

moved

character-

social

scene.

peo-

at

ranches and mountain homes. In general,

men and women

when

dress casually

entertain-

home.

ing at

SOUTHEAST (ATLANTA) All

in

Atlanta

.ill.

khakis and loafers.

a casual

is

bats. Black it is

\cu

in

is

York.

at

nightclubs and

On

die contrary,

teal,

belts,

and

Societv

shirt,"

and bags when

traditional

gold,

among women.

wear khakis, the "great while

and lunch,

onlv

aflood with

not as popular a color in Atlanta as

nil are prevalent colors

\[icr

itv.

c

not unusual to See people

Il is

sporting khakis and polo shirts

expensive loafers,

clothing. In the eighties,

relaxed and colorful.

with a scarf or pin.

Western

often sport Western tuxedos

that feature a yoke cut. satin lapels,

women

are urban standard: black, charcoal, chocolate, white.

Men

elegance."

call for "creative

gym during

race-walk 01 go to the

their lunch hour. However, because of the noto-

tk

They often mix

up

live

stereotype of being slim

which can be worn

by adding or subtracting accessories.

com-

barer fashions and shorter hem-

not a cocktail suit)

rates,

events in Denver

cutting edge of

serve their dress shoes. As in other

dress (narrow cut,

to a variety of events simply

tin-

sneakers on the street to pre-

women by the fashion reporters. Many New York women own a little black dress, tographed on

on

where

in a city

newest, cutting-

ple are label-conscious.

Many

become an

with being

Precious high heels and suede shoes

last

edge designs are popular and usually pho-

The

Westerns

expensive animal-print gown with a suede fringe

(SEATTLE)

more concerned

evening occasions,

formal manner.

wear ankle-length gowns

will

Western jacket. Such Western clothing has

NORTHEAST (NEW YORK)

tionally

A

often wear low heels.

Women

and

Party!

Adventurous Entertaining.

are

nicely;

should never

Washington, because they

in

Women

ties,

Quinn, a Washington

as Sally

count anyone out always

political standings

hostess, says, "You

NORTHWEST

city

radio

keep up. Mixing Democrats and Republicans

PACIFIC

New York

TV and

news on

listen to the

women

grand events.

their state-

often in the

is

— read the newspapers,

can liven things up. People's

with an evening

make

to

ment. Washington entertaining

black

periodically inclement weather,

and the

for very

to

ting. The younger set wears bla< k-iic forma] attire when going clubbing. Because of the cobblestone

streets

nates, bul

char-

an intellectual

individualism

rise to

col-

colors

with higher hemlines. For evening wear

is

making fashion statements and frown upon seductive dressing, since they want their political

ihev

and

shop

taboos are respected:

Memorial Dav and before Labor Dav

is

the

period of the year to wear black patent

leathei shoes or white shoes.

Some

oi

the suin Southern

sctnl to be lading in Atlanta.

fashion rules

Ibis

is

prohahlv

booming business

nous

pel capita in

because

city in

the country,

which has relocated people from around the

providing main excisions for formal dress Women's evening wear is understated and elegant. The little black cocktail dress predomi-

world.

oi

die city's

Taffeta

and hoop

skirts

have

sector,

been

replaced by clothing that can be worn both the office and to the symphony.

10

wedding

Southern Weddings

A

big

wedding

Mead Country

in Nashville

always at the Belle

is

Club, just as in Atlanta

Driving Club. Even

you have

if

at the

it is

at

most

home.

have a big wedding

likely

Weddings because

your house

at

country

a

at

club.

are always at night, at 8 p.m., probably

it's

so hot during the day.

There are massive amounts important,

homemade

is

spread on

rolls

Cues

Nashville, Charlie

passed on

invitation

lood

<>l

— most

platters, but there

ber are passed around as

smoked salmon,

late as

tenderloin,

caviar are served. Vera

Wang

9 o'cloc

raw

vet

.1

Mead,

At Belle

a

is

also

is

finger sandwiches such as waten ress oi

In

and

the big caterei

is

groom

often stay for

like a cattish

The

jeans.

bride and

u<

i

um-

Later,

k.

and

bar,

big foi wed-

5

ding dresses, which are always long and

li.uli



a silk chess en

In the Delta these

cm

children dressed

in

lao chesses and carrying

bouquets of flowers. There buffet lunch

usuall) a big social

is

the parents' or grandparents'

at

Balls

opening

In Nashville, the- big

museum

but

long sleek,

and

a

a

movie or a

Women

10:30.

to

Armani

mid-call

not

Antique and Garden Show,

the-

which goes from 5:30 to

is

wear

Clothes are

dresses,

designei like Pamela Dennis

vet

is

tail

dress

acceptable.

is

might be

weddings

m

mother

bride's

cream or pale-yellow

in a

perhcih acceptable n.iw in

The

dress.

It

Nashville

fabrics.

Ufred Fiandaca, anothei \ei\ populai

designer

in

(.owns

fits,

Worn sw.m

hei

Nashville, dues a

oigan/a out-

lot ol

both Dennis and I1.1nd.ua

In

gland events

to

Hunt

.lie

Hall

and the

In Nashville ihe

women

Hall in \ash\iiie

nunc-

— big

lot oi jewelr)

.1

and

is(|uc

1

and the Delta

weddings, include a tin

il

and most they're big and

people from out

lot oi

ee to lour da)

lie.

town,

oi

is

worn.

is

last

pants.

pants are worn b) the hostess,

01 barbel

i\

at

tra)

home would

lu

se

.iic- still

bj a

.11

elumei

one kind

budei

big

\

always be a

"1

e>l

t

oe kt.ul

01

a

elinnci

at

takes

a \ci\

pi.ee

and the most

The

e at

a big

have their

own

the country club where the

and white

tablet loths,

of the wedding there

is

the wedding the

sweaters but

idc probably wears

.1

sleeveless

dress with strappv sandals.

when

\|t,i

Grove"

part)'

leave, at

about 2 a.m., the bride always weais her

over,

—Armani

"leaving suit" she's not

the bride and

or Calvin Klein

going anywhere.

groom

—even

Some people just

if

chive

around the block and then go home. Sunday: There

is

no

often a party the day after the

when

long gowns

at

I

here are

on the

spot

picnic (families

silver

candelabra*

and women weai Hals,

"tailored

and ashmere e

11101

nc on

toast are served.

Manv

he steeplechase

or

c

in

Nashville

get extremely dressed

ream dresses and

often

w.i Ik

women

ol the

up in chiffon and accessorize

guests get ehesse-d

lot oi jewelry.

with a

Miscellaneous llollv's

woi n in

Harp

In

and pruned chiffon are

cut velvet

both

eilcl

New Oilcans

and young. 01

gabardine pants and

Foi a dinnei part)

Nashville,

in

look that works al bill

in these-

not piissv

St vie-

towns. is

around

in

suits

the

up

is

a

big

event.

in floral, pastel,

with high heels.

mud and

narrow

ve-iv

tunv-tvpe shn

a ten

fon, often pi lilted with flowers,

ol chif-

kind

a

is

i

Women

ol

.11 e-

se-t

piae

-

alwavs ladylike, which

unpen lam dressing guideline lor

the most

tailored feminine elegance

is

admired

mole- than lienclv extremes.

Charity Balls is

between Novembei ami

Women who

attend the-se events shop

Charity-ball season

new formal weai almost eveiv season so the-

same- chess over

and over

considered

are

Dresses, not pants, are

worn

as

again.

excessive.

for evening.

SOUTHWEST (HOUSTON) [exas women have- a well-deserved ten

being the most dressed,

dressed,

women

in in

the nation.

It

elav. isc-

e

not to

Thev begin

lollies,

They

grass in these.

reputation

not

il

is

Houston or Dallas

three times a

upscale e\eie

jeans.

Steeplechase

Women

itself,

ol the

debutante, where hot seafood and eiabmeat

loi

suit

morning

in

wear

to

also

or pantsuit

and shopping; then

suit, dress,

or formal wear for evening.

has good jewelry

best

change clothes the-

tor lunch

woman

the

uniisu.il

which thev

run errands; change into a chic

1

hall

house

the-

tea.

and most

lie.

the-

Vftet

supper"

young

the

formal

a ve-iv

is

in

the

wedding

is

sites).

— khakis with blouses.

casuals"

summei

elaborate picnic

where youi grandmothei hadhei

rehearsal dinner took place. At the lunch before bt

a "cocktail

is

tin

You have

lunch, perhaps

weai

there

supper."

and dancing: women wear pants,

out," there

women

|anuary.

Oxford, Mississippi, before the Ole Miss game.

very dressy Arm. mi

the South. During the

debut. mie balls are black

nristmas

Friday: Very formal rehearsal dinner, bl.uk tie

cocktail chesses 01

m

wintei

the

Huge ballgowns

ver) big in the South,

ritualized event

lie.

1-

chesses 01

CM ktail

1

a seated

eilhci

In \ash\ille.

you are given a p.u

in eilhci

You have

supper"

"buffet

I

Thursday: Informal cocktail party

.11

suit.

veiv big

before

not 10 weai

Events

women

Balls

still

summei

women,

Tailgate Parties

The day

hcv are

is

s.

Weekend Wedding

Saturday:

I

lie

Home

Entertaining at

silk

particular!)

important brooches,

less jewelr)

Dress) silken chiffon

Rehearsal Dinner lilac k

the

like-

and the guests come

Most rehearsal dinners are

J

foi

is

foi guests to weai bl.uk 01

Mead

Belie

cream and butterscotch-colored

populai

net kl.u es, earrings. In the Delta area, dressing

Ock-

Debutante

All the-

Openings and

good

.1

Women "come

house, not seated.

we. ii long chesses to weddings, although

I

the

like

be quite formal, with the

weai

.1

some establishments

At

expec ted to wear verj traditional clothes, either Christenings

A wedding is always vciv formal black oi while tie. The wedding part) is in white tie and the guests we.u hl.uk tie. A lot oi people tional.

Clubs

Country Club or the Driving Club,

it.

noi scaled.

is

and tenderloin.

long buffet table.

a

The

and dinner

says "Cocktail-supper"

the food

you would

In the Delta, however,

and only occasionally

something

casual,

which you weai

huge house

a

with a big garden you would never have the wed-

ding

—ver\

fry at

into a cocktail

— stones

And

if

a

one might

— she

refer to as "jewels" rather than jewelry

wants clothes that show these dressing

is

off.

Destination

the rule rather than the exception in

196 Chic Simple

—L

and

the Southwest. Heat, humidity, bitter cold,

the chill of air conditioning have a lot to

with

but even

this,

women

career

tend

change clothes for the evening. With the

downtown

talization of

to

revi-

young

areas, however,

people and urbanites of every age are finding

and clubbing immedi-

that cocktails, tapas bars,

ately after leaving the office are

making them

rethink their wardrobe choices.

black

Still,

and Prada bags have not replaced the

leather

cachet of Chanel and Armani

flowers sensitively embroidered

do

Guests

at

weddings dress

on Swiss cotton.

to the teeth. In fact,

daytime weddings may be the only occasions

when women

Daytime wedding dress runs

and dresses with

dings tend to be black tion

is

to dressy suits

jackets.

and

Evening wed-

even when the recepThe most lavish weddings tie,

a cocktail buffet.

upswing taining

in the

Southwest, although

done

is still

vate clubs. At

on the

lots

of enter-

at fine restaurants

and

at pri-

home, women almost always wear

short dresses or pantsuits.

Houston, the

In

March of Dimes, perhaps the most charity,

is

has ditched

annual

its

socially elite

of 10

ball in favor

an important and growing sport in the

is

Southwest, no matter the horrors of the climate. In Dallas,

women

Houston, where sandals,

worn

at

not unusual to see shorts,

— sometimes jeans with-

Stockings are usually not

labels.

the Houston polo grounds unless the

weather turns nippy.

dinners for 50 guests in private homes, and people are

most anxious

to attend

homes

Black-tie dinners in private

growing in popularity cial



at

any price.

are rare but

and tend to be for very spe-

Both Houston and Dallas

weather months, dress Entertaining

Out

difficult to find

Most people who choose their

homes

nice

restaurant,

in

charities host these

day-into-evening events held at local

ranches. Because they tend to be held in

occasions.

Houston

to entertain outside

select a private club or

most prestigious being

the

cool without

is

This

one of the biggest controversies

is

South and Southwest, but

— usually

stockings

pantyhose

only time

women

when

is

here

casual clothes with

flat

It is

Western or Santa Fe wear that

making the wearer look

—often

is

as if she

hall.

teamed with denim

thev are "fash-

not as popular as they once were in

this region.

Busines wear has been influenced by

the influx of South

and Central Americans con-

ducting business

who tend toward

urban

South Beach, evening

colors. In

darker,

more

attire

is

suit

hip-hugger pants, and open-toed

tops,

strappy sandals reign.

Entertaining at

Home

host a cocktail hour in their

Many people

for these events,

it is

home

before going out for the evening.

Suede

— reign

always appropriate to

wear your denim with diamonds.

Charity Events events, including the

Party, the

Make A Wish

Foundation fundraiser, and the White Party

the meal of choice.

is

if

Pastels are

annual Ocean Drive

Mansion on Turtle Creek

their

TROPICAL (MIAMI)

And

the

may remove

shoes or

of-town

at

weddings,

ion forward."

There are many charity

Southwestern cuisine. In Dallas, dinner

— for

they are wearing extremely

supreme, but make sure they are lightweight.

guests

in the

here, in spite

of the heat and discomfort, continue to wear

Tony's and Cafe Annie.

The latter is nice for outwho may not have tried

women

warm-

always a problem.

only recently stepped out of a dance

and leather

the chill

the barest of bare: Minis, cropped tops, bathing-

Cattle Barons' Balls

galas,

If

tend to dress up more than in it's

and even jeans

out designer

air-conditioned, as

To Bare or Not to Bare?

stockings

Polo

home

all

bothers you, take a sweater or a wrap.)

The

labels.

Home

Entertaining with dinner at

(The beach houses are

every other indoor venue in Texas.

church, luncheons, and most evening events.

always include seated dinners afterward.

Polo

Dinner at

is

wear dressy hats anymore,

still

although they are by no means standard dress.

pantsuits

is.

benefit

AIDS

(to

research).

Ranch

Weddings In

Usually on

Houston the best weddings are almost always

held at a large church, even for the second or third time around.

The same

true in Dallas,

is

although some weddings and receptions are held

at

the

might be

at

Mansion on Turtle Creek. Others the staid Dallas Country Club or the

Tower or Petroleum wedding reception

Houston,

usually held at

is

private country clubs

the Bayou Club.

clubs. In

The

latter,

The designer of choice in

in

by the way,

both

is

pro-

says Bay-oo

Wear a and resort

pantsuit, fancy jeans with a great top,

ranchwear but certainly not dude ranch.

weekends Texans boring ranches their

On

own ranches

cities

is

Vera

love the

Four-star restaurants are also upscale scenes.

Women in

are generally dressed

Miami, wearing

little

up

for such events

black cocktail dresses

with minimal bracelets, necklaces, and hand-

or to small airports nearby,

bags. Sunglasses are an essential status accessory.

where they keep any number of sport

and long,

tight

gowns. Thev enjoy accessorizing

vehicles.

Religious Services

Weekends on

A

lot

the

Women

Water

of Houston entertaining actually occurs

beach houses

in

at

Galveston, especially in the is

and

tank tops or

run from beaded extravaganzas

coiffed

wear mid-thigh

skirt

suits with

jackets to religious services. Coats

box)

and hats are

never seen.

akin

common fabrics being linens, Do not show up in beachy cut-offs. The women are always

to resort wear,

cottons,

couture designs of Lisette Lux, whose creations

Texas wild-

Dining Out

who own neighMany people fly into

invite friends

to parties.

upscale Pirate's Cove subdivison. Dress

Houston women

to

social events gen-

one of the

— River Oaks, Houston, or

nounced Buy-oh Club. Anyone who is immediately branded a Yankee. Wang, although

a big

weekends, these

fall

erally involve shooting, primarily birds.

silks.

and accessorized, no matter how hot

it

Sporting Events

Sporting events are popular event

is

the

The

in

Miami.

One

big

Lipton. a tennis tournament

that takes place in

March

in

ke\ Biscayne. flu

and people tend

extremely casual, vet responsive to each season's

the slopes; they're in North Face jackets, with

toward a dressy-casual look, including expen-

Some say the most important accessoi a person can own in LA is a car. The weather is pre-

sin ling,

weather

usually gorgeous

is

shoes and jewelry.

sive

new

ends.

11

\

women

dominantl) warm, but wealthiei

TROPICAL (PALM BEACH)

Though

they're geographically close,

Palm Beach are worlds

u.nel.

furs I01

Miami and

Palm Beach sports

apart.

pageants >.

1

1

I,

will

buj

bat mitzvahs, Latin Amerii an weddings, AIDS

1

and fashion shows.

an old-school, old-money look.

benefits,

Charity Events

The Beach

There

up

suns. lie.

Women

shoes and bags to match. Hats and patterned, bright coats are popular, feweli

can

and dressy

cocktail dresses with

typically

is

\

lai

ge

.1

c

I

1

mean a clingy dress of

and obvious.

toe kt.ul sku

Weddings

Weddings

sun. in

t

ro-

Bags Peopletendlowe.il is

The beach is majoi hangout, <\.\\ 01 night. which means skimpier, more revealing lothing. Long ski is .ue rare. In A. black tie fbi women

Black-tie charity events are held often.

wai

and Nike and \didas shoes

a sex]

assoi ted colors,

tote 01 sbouldei bags;

m

e carried

.11

Gucci

and vintage 1920s bags

veiv popular for dav.

or beaded bags

dress in shifts

skateboard wear mixed

01

a great fetish fbi athletu gear,

is

range from beaut]

A. occasions

pioms. latino Sweet 15 ceremonies.

10

snowboard,

in.

the evening.

Shoes

People

in

Blahnik,

wen

offices

Manolo

lergerie,

(

Louboutin.

Christian

01

Tod's

|.P.

informal da) sinus are popular

trend] slip dress,

,i

Suits

Weddings here are

eilliei

Club, the Palm Beach Club, or

The model

big tent.

is

borne with

.it

weddings take place

since most

noon, there are

.1

and knee-length

lot

ol

pastel

.1

wedding, and

royal

.1

Everglades

the

al

A wedding

suits

part)

.1

will

and

a

lunch the day before so thai the people coming

from

Dyed

over the world have enough to do.

all

shoes

Eabrii

01

is

though Angelii

1.

[yiei

light

call

shoes are stan-

an

c.ii

Home

l\

at

7.

None

of these

would require dressing up.

might we.u pants and most

them unless

ol

will

dinnei

.11

but

Ungaro, big;

Women

8.

Chanel and

naw

01

silk

lhe

jeweled minaudieres actiialh

aie the

the shape

in

place

them

011

the table as an extension ol the table setting. Bat

1

\

Kieselslein-( lord bags

,11

silk 01

Book

linen.

pai in

dress vei

v

si.

cocktail

and more

dresses,

7:30.

is

ns we.u short dresses

veiv

[he

c

because the

.isu.tl

pantsuits, always

<>i

stars are often in silk

(

and

.ill

si, 111

.11

sequins,

e also popular.

There pants

in

wear big straw

a

01

'in

Ralph

white shirt and a cashmere sweater

beige

style

people are

and customs are

bom

wiib

,1

i-sbiri

01

cotton

1

1. 11

oldei generation wears Armani.

A

is

Wardrobe

for All

There are

a lot of

Most

1.

women

are

parkas

who

\

Strands of dia-

little

sti.inds

of

pe.uls

Winston are popular.

WEST COAST (SAN FRANCISCO)

Women

aie

European

in stvle. •

1

00]

si

Weathet

in liners;

look as though they've

just

variable (long

is

September and October and demands

,ue favored; there

silks

maies. stvle

Women



and 1

a sea-

in ski

been on

01

little

is

need

loi

clothing for steamy

<

li-

here enjoy forward-looking

structured 01 seis •

ular because so

Occasions

people walking around

and

formal,

sophisticated,

aie die wannest months)

scared ol

about

1

die jewelry the

lot ol

large]

heavy winter overcoats

he youngei generation wears Helmut Lang orjil

there. For this reason,

diversified.

from

somewhat

01

.1

openings

at

sonless wardrobe. Light wool crepes and season-

Business Functions 1

ucien PelletfineL

I

Waterman makes

us bin. and

less

Sander and the

WEST COAST (LOS ANGELES) An important thing to remember that few

p. mis

bats, silk suits. 01 dicssv

white or navy, or riding pants Eh

Lauren with

where

b)

bl.uk

.1

Jewelry

springs,

shin and a sweatel aiound the shouldeis

usually lunch in the clubhouse,

diess with

(..ibb.111.1

nines horn woik

iniivies

White

women

Home

of the

&

bl.uk Dolce

monds

Polo Match

the

Out

Entertaining

Kaihv

or linen.

Polo Match is

ate populai

\

casually.

designei wear, but evei voile else anil

the

at

Chinese

short

01

latest;

v

and

s

when

bookstores, but even

long

guests,

foi

the vei

at

p. mis.

diesses 01 Chinese pajamas Willi gold slippeis

si.

and

— women

top to

.1

moment,

wc.us

Party

Movie Opening

l.eibei

|ust

weie an opening night.

Charles [ourdan

jackets ate standard. Also populai

-

net

populai. and

veiv

is

and nol

boots.

7:30 01 8

ai

often

hostess

cashmere cardigan

Museum

Strappy sandals in lots Of Colors and beaded lops

an animal

jacket 01

One

alwa\s be scaled

lil.uk

ol

al

.1

11

pantsuit in

.1

V.

1

Home

the

pantsuiis in

Judith

some people even we.u

Ballet/Theater/Symphony

from Armani

Valentino are also verj

ess.uilv

ied in

.1

in

blue

pastels. nav\

long Ol

People e.u dinnei

we. u chiffon, ioikt.nl diesses, 01 evening pants 01

1

Entertaining at

they're not, people

town, and dinnei

and served. Drinks

luston got mat

do wcai wool

the)

pantsuit

are usii.ilK held

It's

1

and

ter

Gallery Opening, Book Party,

and then

dard. Lots ol jewelry.

Entertaining at

a

big b.us with dowers,

lake place over 2 or 3 days with

in

to we. 11

sboi

spot

sleeveless while diesses. eilliei

Richard

the aftei

in

A favorite

People do distinguish between summei and winthe Bel-Ait Hotel People tend

(.lothing

— they're

not

Dav -to-evening looks are pop-

many people go

to

an early din-

net Straight from work. • Swealei sets

because the temperature drops

al

work

well

night.



I

1

People look pulled together and would rather

and communes, which may be muddy.

overdress than dress too casually.

should not be worn to a traditional Chinese wedding, since diis

INTERNATIONAL DRESS CODES



Wearing

can be

is

saris



only rarely required.

Dressing neatly and cleanly

It is

a sign of respect.

is

important to wear well-pressed clothing, par-

when

ticularlv

\isiting a private

or a busi-

and are

residents dress primarily in French stvle

very fashion-conscious. Loose pants are both stylish dress

is

and comfortable.

• In

and

dresses

Zimbabwe,

quite Westernized. Loose-fitting pants or

skirts that

are not revealing are appropriate. •

Tennis shoes and sandals are often not appropri-

which may have a dress code.

ate for restaurants, • In

many other .African counappreciated when Westerners wear the

Uganda, unlike

uies,

it is

on

national dress

gown

cotton

in

may be

skirt

is

appropriate, espe-

not to wear cam-

some countries

this

it is

actually illegal. • For viewing

game, wear jeans and a parka or windbreaker.

There are some

topless beaches in Senegal

and

time about how conservative the dress on a par-

beach should be. In Uganda, Nigeria,

Kenva, and Ghana, for example, going topless

fectlv

acceptable on the street.

be worn

in

Thailand, where

real unless stronglv



Black should not

during dinner. You

considered fune-

your shoes

accented widi color.

women

and simple lightweight

clothing, espe-

and accessorize with gold jewelry

ciallv dresses,

natural,

pack clothing made

of natural fibers are

are

particularly

of

much

China, pantsuits

appropriate,

women

often wear pants. •

purses,

and

High

heels, expensive

flashv designer clothes are

exuavagant and unnecessary.

makeup and jewelry



must

viewed as

Wear

as possible. • In

ber-soled shoes are a

Chinese

since

as

Going

at a resort.

against the law.



with vour knees bent

sit

Shorts should never be worn

staving at an inn or private fold the right side of the side, since this

is

kimono while

lent a

home. Be sure not to kimono over the left

a traditional

is

beach

topless at the

You mav be

svmbol of death.



The Japanese enjoy wearing

In

work clothes are the norm, is

verv L.A. in

stvle,

with

shorter skirts and lots of exposed flesh.

Women

Melbourne region are verv

sophisti-

living in the

Conservative,

conscious.

tional fashion

accessories

quality

brands from Prada to

interna-

Levi's. •

For

comfortable shoes,

traveling outside Tokvo,

and jackets are appro-

slacks, sweaters, blouses,

priate for a pulled-together vet relaxed look.

cated and fashion-literate, vet carry themselves

The look on

with conservative stvle

and

the weekends

and relaxed.

is

natural

color.

LATIN AMERICA

Any dress

that

not revealing or provocative

is

acceptable. Casual wear

ENGLAND The

prepared.

is

The

although there fashion

means

with fashionable pants or a

climate

a litde cool dress is

is

and often

rainy.

Be

conservative in general,

a lot of exciting cutting-edge

coming out of London.

quality.

known Thev know to buv are



worn only less

at

shorts should be

the beach. Appearing

on beaches

is

a shirt or blouse

skirt.

Throughout Latin America,

larly in

little

China, rub-

for visiting factories

for their quiet, dis-

Feminine appeal,

basics are

less,

nude or

top-

extremelv offensive, particu-

is

Costa Rica.

• In

Argentina, bathing

suits

accessories,

what make French

ors

and

more worn

revealing. • Native clothing should not be in Bolivia or Peru. •

Be sure not

to

wear

but better

green and vellow clothes together

and

since these are the colors of the Brazilian flag. •

solid

women among

the

best dressed in the world.

Italians are verv chic

• In

and

skirt,

side. •

symbols.

ITALY

extremelv hot.

to remove Wear good hosierv

most "fashion forward" of all Australians. During

where

is

be expected

will

handbags, shoes) are respected status

more comfortable. Cotton, linen, and silk are best. • Hosierv mav not be necessarv in countries it

homes or

should be conservative; in Brazil thev can be

not synthetic, fibers. Because thev

made

one

In private



(scarves,

creet elegance.

breathe, fabrics

and carrv

Japanese are extremely fashion- and designer-

Man) Asian countries can be very hot and to



impor-

summer months, women prefer lighter colors and naw. In Sydney, women are very aware of labels. Thev are among the and bright makeup.

FRANCE French women want

to

except similar styles as the

of Houston or Dallas. Thev usually dress

in casual

ASIA

will

in the hallway

the entrance.

at

and a loose

and

AUSTRALIA The women of Brisbane wear

it is

is

vou may be seated on tatami mats

it is

would be considered offensive or shocking.

humid, so you

remove them

tant to

sexv.

them, radier than wearing them into an office

restaurants,



However, be sure to check ahead of

Overcoats are considered unclean, so

for a business meeting.

while outdoor dress

is

perceived as that of a mercenary,

while in others

ticular



pants, called salwar. Jeans are also per-

called a busuti At

with a sash

ouflage or military dress. In

.Africa.

palace.

in Pakistan.

viewed as funereal. Red

worn over

the day, conservative

ciallv in villages. • It is crucial

South

welcomed

to for-

is

and inappropriatelv

flash}'

This consists of a long blouse, called a kameez.

special occasions. This long

other times, a dress or

dress

the

visiting is

is

Throughout the Ivory Coast, the

office. •

ness

home

vellow

and should not be worn

Wearing die native dress

is

• In Malaysia,

are stylishly dressed. • For

neutral colors are appropriate,

all

considered

mal functions or when

shorts are usually appropriate

business,

except black, which

knee. Arms, underarms, and shoulders should be

and

women

In general,

acceptable in India, but they

Generally, in rural areas skirts should be below the

and formal wear

JAPAN

put on.

is

difficult to

the color of rovalty

covered. Jeans

White

the color associated with death.

AFRICA

in cities,



In

Colombian and Guatemalan

dresses

and

skirts

in

Brazil.

villages,

only

should be worn.

MIDDLE EAST and enjov wearing

textures. Thev' consider

all

black too

serene and mournful. Glamorous Italian are bare-legged in the

gold jewelry.

summer and

rich col-

women

usually wear

Throughout the Arab world, shoulders should be covered, with sleeves

at least

three-quarter

length and skirts to mid-calf or longer. a

formal occasion

sleeves

is

arise,

appropriate.

part of daily wear





Should

a cocktail dress with

A

shawl should be a

in .Arab countries,

draped over one shoulder and used

folded and to cover the

.

when

shoulders and head

Long

visiting a

mosque.

Women may

sleeves are also customary. •

BUSINESS DRESS Work

men, a Middle Eastern taboo. When

When grooming

women Arabs

sitting,

should cover their legs completely.

will

be offended

you point the soles of

if

your shoes or feet toward them. This action ditionally signifies



contempt.



look professional and are not too revealing.



tend to be very casual. Jeans and shoi

is

Israelis

are appropriate, except

But dresses and

site.

when

skirls

visiting a religious

should

below the

Fall

and shoulders should be covered.

knee,

Formal dress



rarely required. • Sandals are

is

appropriate everyday footweai

in Israel.

height

Gstaad, Switzerland.

women do

Most I

had

mu<

It's

used to be, although ski

the

oi

season

ski

in

h [ess dressy than

it

Anything low-cut Bare midi

\\oid ovei

5.

ately afterward,

wan

bare legs

loi

ban. and

sport-dressy.

pedicure

them

suede boots

hats

and

— moon boots are OUt silk

p. nils

while shin ordressy sweater

with a big

and velvet

popular for dinner. Burgundy and

jai

lo the

house and ihen

U-i are

claret colors

are also worn. Everybody wears then

suede boots

silk

e

look

is

A Russian

there.

get

also popular

ovcr-lhe-knce



boots.

a

long

One

skirt

h.niges into

which conies almost catsuit

under

it

for

(.\ps\

to the

fantasy

with boots 01

fashionable

gloss]

foundation, concealet

foi

01

shcci

hosiess

meetings held

have to day,

come

women

ences

shot

is.

lull

as a circus entci lamer.

staying

.11

that)

held. Enquire

work

ahead

is

follow

the

something

also

up

slightly

in the

tle

more

more

than

(e.g.. satin

shoes

01

The main

a velvet

being

i

everyday

lo

guideline

is

scarf).

stvle

is

oil in a sub-

flair.

on

While-

the job, journalists in particulai should learn to

wardrobe

theii

Retail, restaurants:

ing presentable.

company's interview,

stvle-

1

1

is

1

v

to theii assignments.

he-se-

and

jobs aie

.ill

about look-

gel a sense- oi

before you go

[hen adapt youi own

Getting the

in

whai the for youi

look.

Message Across

—even small movements are notice-

able-,

especially

iiiu-

h

i

on

television.

Watch youi pos-

an affect everything from how youi

looks to the strength of youi von

You can

what you're already to not overdress.

c-

(

Maintain

interviewer's sparkle- lo

eve-

eves

your

suit

hoieogiaph

yOUl gestures to COl respond to what von

are- sav-

contact with the interviewer,

not the camera. Shift your focus

workplace, conside

dn-ssv

show them

wav. by dressing with personal

sets

well. Avoid short is

Van own

You are being hired for

ing.

dress or jacket. Use texture to dress

add simple accessories

wearing.

galleries:

here.

to

lace.)

the

from one

other.

oi the

(This adds

Remain calm enough

to

remembei what others are saving. Don't recite Make-

— von

sine-

ol voui

will

sound insincere and

voui voice has a round, reso-

nant sound. Drop voui

During the

things

an

wiiii creative talents, so

sinpie-d phrases

For office parties held

lollies, like a

design,

mole important

cas-

about what evening

ol lime-

above die knee

|oui n.ilism, publishing, multimedia, aelvci tising,

graphii

Don't fidget

onference

c

lies

Creative Fields

robotic

c

than three me

and

Out-of-town confer-

no maiiei where the

which you

jackets with fur trim rather than

fur coats or jackets.

you

business wear. Sweatei

and

for

Weai

agi ane c:

clotlus that are

usually call loi

knee, with a black

theme

i

restaurants,

gray ll.innel iiouscis

wear jeans with cashmere sweaters,

and generally

in

office-dressing guidelines

Office Parties

a circus

I

to tell

Meetings

Carmen-style panics, where you have to weai is

pow-

01

Too much perfume

light.

clothes aie needed.

Another

Yov

offensive as bad body odor.

home, leggings seem to be popular. A lot oi people give theme parties, like rock n' roll, or gold.

lipstick

ket-sweater,

some evenings. For

\

eve definition, and perhaps

keep the perfume

foi

tea

Service-Oriented Jobs

pigmented, glowing skm

than everyday

ja<

Iocs

\oi everyone has thai

deodorant dike, we had

iusi as

shoi

Is

s.mdals

easu.ii

aps

Makeup light

mascara

Sku

c

match

ual

favors Chanel's multicoloi tweed

\oui

11

outdooi

theii dress shoes, whi< h they carry in a litde bag.

once they

Halloween

hongs, backless shoes without a strap,

summet will good shape, making maintenani c

smooth, evenly

sonic

bl.uk

01

not

expressive designs

othei

oi loi

is

the beginning oi the

at

into

easier.

lot

der,

Black velvet

should

Fingernails

job.

ills

free oi

makeup

nderarm ban should nevei

I

the

Decals

should weai

Apres-Ski

summer, keep them

show, they loo should be clean and well kepi

a

1

Baseball

ode and allows

(

applying Self-tanning

i

should be saved

somewhat

Fui

jewelry.

clean and well kepi; nail polish

In-

one-piece suns, eithei

might weai

makeup, and

asual dress

<

in the

on sid,

i

an even tone.

gel

them

Anything see-through

lothes.

c

hair,

office has a

in

they

subtle.

\\oid overly bright colors (fluorescents)

7 li

dressy

1\

Avoid too nine h

(i.

m

too light oi have holes

.lie

Perfume should be

it's

or Bogner, Foi walking around immedi-

Jeans dial

Respectable hygiene (deodorant, mouthwash)

alwavs

the

is

lor three

-4.

necessary.

February

flooi

01 sweatshirts

Spaghetti stups

be exposed on

Ski

lank tops

3.

loi

SWITZERLAND

Sweatpants

though

as

Dress-Down Don'ts

shorts

i

Exercise clothing

mind:

in

been crumpled on the

they've

weeks),



keep

Neatness u lothes should not look

tra-

wear modest dresses that cover the knees.

lor weak,

Cleanliness (hair, nails, clothes).

1. _'

Visitors should

Jackets are excellent business weai because they

Basic Corporate

Shot

want to wear sunglasses to avoid eye contact with

voie e slightlv at the

ends

sentences, so that thev have the air of

statements, not questions. Practice talking into a

tape recorder to work

on

articulation. (Experts

consulted: kadileen Ardleigh. senior vice president, Ailes

Communications, New York, and Dorothy

Sarnoll

New

chair,

Dorothy Sarnoff Speech Dynamics,

V>rk.)

200 Chic Simple



1_

r

r^

r

w Hollywood designers have long known the importance of showing an actress Travis Bantant, a

Paramount designer

off to her

best advantage.

the 1920s, invented Claudette Colbert's trademark collar. His

in

gowns

successor, Edith Head, engineered wider waistbands on the front of Barbara Stanwyck's

narrowing them

slightly

while

the back, which disguised her low-slung behind. Understanding a few basic

in

principles will help you to accentuate the positive while diminishing the negative.

LOOKING YOUR

BEST

stvles. •

Dark colors are slimming. From head

monochromatic

to toe,

the illusion of

outfits create

Don't

made

often

Bend,

let suit sizes

scare you

— they're

a size larger than your dress size. •

stretch,

sit

—does

move comfortablv? Is And think lifestyle: Are it

you can wear with a bathing sunblock, and a smile.

of proportion. Separates in different colors

you buying a

break up the body and highlight each area.

stant heat ruins fabrics, so don't

Horizontal stripes emphasize the horizontal,

much) or soaking up the rays (a bandeau top minimizes tan lines), swimming laps (a tank is best), or sheer glamour (try velvets, sheens,

amount of gaietv.

and sheer panels)?

Your best

making one look broader. emphasize the body.

Be sure

area,

wherever

vertical, visually

to

keep

it

may

stripes

elongating the

simple in your problem

it

hot tub (con-

in a

spend too

will

often

call

more

HOW TO LOOK YOUR

A BATHING

BEST IN

SUIT

Minimize the negative and accentuate the posi-

it.

No



tive.

BATHING SUITS

waist?

Try a belted

waisted two-piece. • Small bust?

suit

or a high-

Look

for fabrics

with body (velvet, crochet), details across the

When

bathing-suit season strikes again, you'd

better act quickly or you'll be stuck wearing last year's

likely to

number.

be a

bit

If

you enjoyed

it

then,

faded or stretched now

it's



in

bust (ruffles), tops that push bust? port.

Wide •

straps

up and pad.

and high necklines

Heavy thighs? Avoid

emphasize shoulders,



Big

offer sup-

bottom?

Try a bottom with an inverted-triangle design, so

another summer.

the sides ease slightly

a cruel truth that the

item we most hate to shop for

is

one

that

dle?

needs frequent replacing. But now for the

Go

good news: Though we can all point to the flaws in our figures, somewhere lies the per-

TIPS

fect suit,

beautiful.

designed to help us look our most Fabrics

like

Lycra firm

and

lift;

Look

for bright colors

there's hope!

HOW TO SHOP FOR A BATHING SUIT Wear underwear that won't get in the way of bathing-suit lines. • Allow time to try on lots of

on

top, dark

flair,

and swimsuits

in

unusual fabrics

Bottom-heavy suit

has a darker bottom than top, or

therebv balancing the figure.

A bottom

that

cut wider than about 2 inches at the side is

is

seam

a flattering proportion. For a big butt, the

back of the

suit

should look

verted triangle, which

entire rear by grabbing ting

go of

it

at

it

gradualh as

like

an

in-

cup the curve of your

will

it

the center

and

extends to the

let-

sides.

No

Waist

Look

for belted suits, high-waisted two-pieces,

and color-blocked

pieces

full

with

darker

midriffs.

on bottom.

a

They want comfort. Comfort

in

fall

So relax

add

Top-heavy

pattern direct the eye toward one's best feaworst.

Thick mid-

out. •

FOR EVERYONE What do most women want from moves, what

and away from the

up and

for a princess bustline. • Pear shape?

sheer panels reveal as they conceal; colors and

tures

sories

or attention-getting patterns add just the right

high-cut leg;

a

bust, waist. • Big

other words, not guaranteed to look good for It's

suits are

a high neckline that broadens the shoulders,

be; elaborate attempts to

camouflage a body part attention to

Vertical

soaking

sunglasses,

required. Cover-ups can add elegance, acces-

the lining

suit for

is

when bathing

called to dress up, even

height and deemphasize individual flaws or lack

sufficient? •

suit

Sometimes we are



it

reveals,

Try

and what

it

bathing

suit?

the way hides.

If

when reaching, it ridesup when walking, we're

If it

aggravated.

Next,



women want

with built-in bras, wide straps, or high

it

we

out of our bathing suit

doesn't work.

suits

necklines. All offer substantial support.

a bathing suit

Round

Go

for a suit in a darker color with princess

seams or

vertical stripes. .Also look for high-tech

fabrics like microfiber to

hold you

in!

A

bikini

to help their bodies look their best. Elongate

that supports your bust with a hint of clea\

the leg with a high cut. emphasize the back with

paired with a bottom that hugs the hips and

something low and daring, or

below- the bellv button,

it

shows a body off

strut in a bikini

at its best. •

The

if

best thing

curves work foi you.

is

a

way

to

sits

make your

Too Thin

inner support

Whites and pastel colors add weight; boy-leg

bras.

and

houettes, horizontal stripes,

Look

flattering.

for suits with

sil-

prints are also

padded bras or

a

A deep

armhole

is

like floating

underwires

01

shell

V-neck with a sligluh higher-cut

anothei option

complimenting

supporting and

foi

a large bustline.

doesn't convey "cute."

large bustline.

empire

Wide shoulders,

waists with dai

bust are ideal features.

Is

will

Halter a

and

thick snaps,

minimize

m oop-shaped

details,

most

and seaming

at

oomph,

li \

show youi shape. 1'iimr^

to

the curve ol

trace

piece.

thick

a

a bikini thai

all

make

the

ol a small bustline.

\ hi

Bandeau

is

great for active water sports.

ut dial

rests jusl

below yOUT

The halter

the bust.

boyish

belly button.

The triangle top

vi

a flatter chest.

The shorts

i

.

Be

dot

Glamour

Waist Enhancer Suit

Overall shirring builds

are

up a small bust, silhouette

dramatic, but the

and flatter

hides a skinny body,

round bodies.

exposure requires a firm

tummy and good

arms and shoulders.

202 Chic Simple

lines.

embellishes

attention

panels elongate the lines

rathei

Bottom dips below

Contrasting vertical

Geometric

button lands

A sexy bikini adds oomph to

al iii.'.

Asymmetrical

bcll\

String Bikini

Bikini

ders and downplays

One-Shoulder

has a bottom with a

subtle curve that accentuates the lx>d\

shows off si

it

two-

a

front.

iine.

generally a

younger look, and

sure

and

For

Pot Belly

a

A bandeau offers

cove

the bust

middle

l'nniv subtle

h>vs the busl

Boy Shorts Bottom

top

u,i\

Fabrics with built-in bod) like velvet, textured

Halter Top with

is

that

have "hidden"

suits

This

sew

Small Bust

or shirring beneath the

Some

are a

waist

hue. and crochet add

Big Bust

Support from above and below

Curv) cut-outs .\nd asymmetrical silhouettes

seams

bust-enhancement feature. You want a feminine style that

Thick Middle

and softens

big

busts, hips, or

tummies.

than cutting

^She

in half at the waist (look at the way

it

lingerie briefs are cut b\

European manufacturers).

Accentuate your shoulders with something boat neck

A cropped

and

reaches just

this with a bikini cut so the legline

below your hip bone. Avoid a high-cut

twenty minutes on the bike at

to

top with a

accentuate your collarbone. Pair

will

out

body—-for an hour, then condemns me

Peor Shape

asymmetrical or strapless.

—upper and lower

me

works

ierel

one

twelve more minutes at level two.

suit.

I leave exhausted,

and I can 't

tell if

my legs

GENEROUSLY SIZED BODIES an impeccable

There's nothing

like

flattering haircut,

and good personal grooming

to refute the

erously

uninformed perception

sized

women

ewe coming with me.yy

outfit, a

DODIE KAZAN JIAN,

that gen-

Icon; The Absolutes of Style

undisciplined.

are

Designers and media are finallv responding to

women

the needs of generously proportioned

with clothes that are flattering in luxury fabrics.

and

Pants

only

that are well-made.

if full-cut,

moves Bags

middle part of your

and

rest

around the

torso: thev only

add bulk

and

gracefully.

ers of vest

Avoid bulkv shoulder bags that

legs;

in a fabric with

Avoid chokers and dangling earrings, which

drape so

draw the eye to the neck.

Consider topping with

and blouse, or a big

can create a good

it

soft lav-

soft sweater

and derriere

blazer that covers your hips

Instead, carry

flat

bags, briefcases, or totes that

draw the eye away from

A

also

define

the

Wear oblong

below

scarves, loose or knotted

the collarbone. Avoid scarves tied

around the neck

ally

Skirts

avoid short skirts and

Lnless your legs are

fit.

look for long, narrow

skirls

loose, flowing skirts.

a belt can

far

— thev

added

neck

diminish

will

Tops. Anything that shows more neck

this area.

figures,

Scarves.

length and attract attention to the chin.

line.

Belts

For hourglass

small earrings.

wear pants

attention to that part of your body.

call

Wear long necklaces and

Jewelry.

Avoid pants with straight-cut

with elastic waists, oi

Avoid Bouncy

the

skirts:

elongate: Y-necks, scoops,

open

camisole, or strapless tops. Avoid

will

shirts

mock

usu-

over a turde-

necks, although high turdenecks will help hide a double chin.

fabric only enlarges the silhouette.

Long Neck thinnest point.

A long

Tops (

Fabric

Loose, long, flowing lavers of lightweight fabric are flattering.

Make

it

will

Avoid large patterns. Keep

colors are slimming. color, scarf,

do or

If

hold in

you want

its

mind to

is

Don't tuck

you

shape betdark

thai

add

a bright

it

super short:

if

you want

to

Proper-fitting,

structured

undergarments can

diat covers the neck.

Look

Tops.

streamline a silhouette.

ascots.

high-necked clothing: cowls,

for

Nehru

and turdenecks,

collars,

which minimize the length

of the neck.

of

all

Avoid

olt-

vest.

can distract from a thick

If

it

monochromatic

to

your advantage. Darks are slimming as

colored jacket,

and dangling

waist.

Use are

like a

looks.

Wearing a

magenta, over an

brightly all

ear-

your neck

ensemble can be very

chic.

Add

the-shoulder necklines and Y-necks. Also consider wearing a scarf at the neck.

dark

bright colors or

Brood Shoulders

Some women

jewelrv to draw attention to your face.

thick, avoid jewelrv that calls attention to

Wear one bold

pieces. Rather than calls

alleged that

it.

need

broad shoulders.

to detract attention

RESOLVING PROBLEM AREAS

It

should be

said,

however, that the look of broad shoulders

is

admired and preferred by many fashion experts. part,

more attention to it. (However, Coco Chanel draped herself in

deuact attention from her body.

their

like

piece, not a battery of

camouflaging a body

feel the

is

horn

elry to

generallv considered an asset, but

shorten the appearance of the neck, wear hair

Underwear

COLOR

rings can elongate the face: a pin at the shoulder

jewelry

is

you have too much of a good thing for

your proportions, consider the following:

in shirttails.

so in a long, sliglvdy fitted bla/er, oblong

necklaces, pendants,

chokers.

neck

feel

tight!)

Jewelry

Long

sweater.

if

Hair. Don't wear

sine that the fabric

woven, however, because ter.

lover buttocks with a loose top, jacket, vest, or

ABOVE THE WAIST

Coats. Unstructured

dolman or raglan

look good. Avoid any

stvle that calls

sleeves

it is

attention to

jew-

Double Chin; Short or Thick Neck

the shoulders:

trench,

I

Hair. If you have a narrow face

and

short hair or wearing your hair

appearance of a longer neck.

up

a short neck, will give

the

Sherlock Holmes.

safari,

coachman, or

Proportion.

you're slender, loose clothes

If

below the belt

balance out the upper body.

will

and

the-shoulder, strapless,

Coats. Emphasize the shoulders to detract from

halter tops

Underwear. Wear a supportive underwiie

Tops. Break up the width of your shoulders with

minimizer bra with wide shoulder straps

V-necks or deep scoop necks; wear fabrics that

Jewelry. Use jeweh

drape

you wear straps (camisoles,

If

easily.

hang near

spaghetti straps), choose ones that

and draw the eye

the neck ders.

Avoid halter

Don't wear anything that emphasizes

width.

shoulders, such as shoulder pads always removable),

from your

(lust:

wear bracelets and cartings. Don't weai

puis,

to distracl

\

hang

necklaces, or pendants that

(which are

horizontal lines,

stiff fabrics,

wide scoop necks, square necks, strapless

styles,

western yokes, or epaulets.

Narrow

Small Bust ol hrightct or lightei col-

ors than bottoms. Weai anything ihat accentuates the uppei

halt oi

ural.

Your proportions

sl\les.

and

tight tops

oil

you

il

Coats. der,

Look

such

coats that have

lot

as

coachman,

defined shoul-

.1

Holmes,

Sherlock

empire bodii

waists, s

(

Oblong

will distracl

Long and

Skirts.

and

es,

A-line

recommended.

are

waists

elastic

drape over the

scarves that

attention from the waist. shot

lull skills, oi

help dtaw attention

to the legs

ones, will

t

and awa\ from

the waist.

Tops. Emphasize shoulders and neckline: over-

wrapped

are tunics 01

styles,

good, as

all

and shoulder pads.

\\oul tanks, tube tops, (topped tops,

and

fitted

blouses

Heavy Arms

Underwear. Control undeigai incuts

Tops. Loose, long sleeves are best,

overbuild youi shoulders.

Drop

sheath diess

yoked

styles

sized, blousy, loose-waisted tops ate

uiidci-

looking nat-

still

be thrown

will

loose

body, such as

tin-

tops with ornate detailing, layers, poikets. off

wire bias ni accentuate the bust line

shoulders up while

oi

bod)

ihe-shouldei

or Sloping Shoulders

to build

Dresses.

Scarves.

Tops. Tops should be

straight, untitled coats, oi

\

Pants. Try sewn-in waistbands 01

low.

Underwear. Weal pushup, padded, and

Try

the waist. Ti

or Sherlock Holmes

from the shoul-

in

emphasize shoulder

tops; they

01

n\ belloi

Vvoid anything thai reveals the

angel sleeves,

uppei

oi

at in.

the waist

.iic effet

Vests. Below-the-waist vests (an be flatlet

that

until

U\e.

cMiemeh

ing

trench, or safari.

Tops. Wear shouldei pads, but be sure the) comfortably on the shoulders

move around,

large or

they



the)

il

resl

an' loo

look slopp] and

will

overwhelming. Also effective are oversized

tops,

boatnecks, cap sleeves, epaulets, off-the-shouldei Styles,

cen lei

and

ballets.

ol the

bod)

Avoid

dt

awing attention

In staying

Long-Waisted Figure

Small Waist Belts. to

We.

oi plain bells that

feature, bin

ilns

much

wide

ii

beware

ol

awa) from ne(

kites,

Soft-shouldered

kimonos, or laglan

do not help equalize the

dolman

01

Belts. Vvoid belts altogethei

narrow

if

youcan;

medium-width

pants

Don't wear wide belts and olhci

ot

that

5t) les

call

more

01

ate slender below

tin- waisl.

(

make

will

the bottom

m

belts

dark

Vvoid brightl)

stomach

(i

us well us a behind.

mean —

/

von

well,

((in 7

pull

il

in

both

deemphasize the

pan

ol

youi

bod)

Tops. Draw the focus away from the upper bod)

but

open

scoop necklines, or

collars,

untussv designs.

Unlined, unstruc-

tured, flowing tops or jackets in gently fitted styles are flattering.

room

to

oloi as pants 01 skin.

(

((in you?...

Ire

oi

lull-leg

pants that COVei die foot's instep visually leg.

Avoid hip-huggers, low-slung

jeans, ot pants with

nils

i

fops should emphasize shoulders and

arms. Off-the-shoulder,

(topped

st\les

Vvoid

short

lined,

high-waisted,

.

ate

lilted,

halter,

or

aie

shot t-slee\ed

down

the middle,

as

invthing Inlh

unless

\ests,

strapless,

ideal,

belted

they're

and

tunics,

worn

over

an

untucked loose blouse.

Shorf-Waisted Figure Belts.

To elongate

the line ol the upper body,

weai a belt ihe same

(

oloi as the top.

II

hips are

narrow, wear belts low. below the natural waist-

Avoid Bashy buckles or wide, colorful

Pants and Skirts.

belts.

Hip-huggers or "low-rise"

pants, no-waistband pants, or low-slung skirts

/nude

Dresses. Avoid empire bodices.

large

Tops,

line.

ways,

appear larger

with V-necks,



knits

ontrasting belts

weal

sknis in brighter oi lightei ioIois than

the lop, or patterns. This

now

And

it.

If vou

top and

olored

neces

silhouette.

shorten the uppei bod) and therefore

Bottoms.

(

01

if

same

Weai

Pants.

men's

Thick Waist

tiVve got

attention to

h

lo visuall) shoiu'ii the uppei body, weai

plain belts the

anything long and

Large Bust Belts.

iiiui

Belts,

extend the

s.u\.

sleeves,

too

in

pants

colors ate less attention-getting.

designs like

nipping

attention to the hips

these call attention to the Eacl thai the hips are

shoulders.

attention

the waist, as this can (haw loo

at

wider

the

all

to the

long necklaces, oblong scarves, and tight tops;

than

i

move

Make

freely.

sure there's

enough

Avoid tight blouses or

bodysuits, boxy jackets, flap or patch pockets

over the chest, buttons over the chest, and

off-

it

a rule to pull in

my stomach and

let

behind look after itself.

}}

my

look good. Avoid high-waisted pants and skirts

and those with wide waistbands. Tops. Wear jackets,

\ests. tops,

and tunics

that

hang below

the waist to elongate the line of the

Deep

scoops, belted tunics, and surplice

body.

tops also look good. Avoid tucking in clothing severely; let

it

blouse a

little.

AGATHA CHRISTIE, "The Dressmaker's Doll"

204 Chic Simple

MtJL

BELOW THE WAIST

Long

Coats.

«••

Short Legs

carft

I

capes, or swagger-backed

coats,

styles are best.

Wear

Coats. Short coats elongate the leg.

Pants.

Skirts. If the legs are in shape, short skirts are a

difference between thighs

and

pockets or anything

Dark colors are

good way

believe

to create the illusion of length.

Leggings, stirrups, Capris, and pedal

Pants.

pants

enhance the

all

wide-leg pants, pleats,

line of the body.

and

Avoid

cuffs.

Tops. Short tops give the illusion of a longer

Long, Thin Legs

cut,

cropped pants are Short

Skirts. feel

skirts

legs. If

your legs are too thin to appear

skirt

with a

slit

sexy, a

long

your bottom

draw attention away from

stripes

are beltless, with

that

straight

lines.

Tailored, structured dresses that drape from the

shoulder, empire bodices, an A-line dress with a

top and a flowing

fitted

skirt,

and dresses with

long, slightly fitted jackets are also effective.

under hip-length tops

gings or a slim

skirt.

jackets.

Don't tuck

Jackets.

A

Avoid

at

flies

and back zippers look better

and front

pockets and anything Skirts.

Try

zippers. Avoid front

tight.

drape

soft A-lines that

vests,

or

the hips over leg-

tight tops

and short

nicely.

clinging, tight waistlines, as well as anything with lots

vests,

and tops

hemming stomach

a T-shirt so

it

starts to swell.

tend to hug

this

in

just to

falls

where your

Otherwise your

area and emphasize

dark jacket with shoulder pads makes

its

shirt will

fullness.

leg pants;

jodhpurs with the exaggerated upper

leg (because

it

looks like the style of clothing,

not you) or heavy fabric in a wide, straight-leg style.

Avoid tapered pants that emphasize the

difference between calves and thighs, that are pleated or side-pocketed.

and pants

Dark colors

are slimming. Skirts. pleats.



if

seem

the so

wide. Avoid slim, narrow-legged pants. Dark colfor soft, minimally detailed, wide-

Wear

Avoid Lycra-blend narrow

Skirts. Pleats

Tops.

Vests,

narrow

Fitted jackets that flare over the thighs

jackets can also

work

should

start

below the

untucked or long

skirts

and

shirts with straight,

pants, scoop necks, decolletage,

and off-the-shoulder necklines to

your upper

epaulets,

half;

and blouses

at

all

call

attention

kimonos, dolman in

puffed,

styles are all effective.

ends just

hips.

sleeves,

peasant,

or

and long

well. Bright, light colors

Some say large buttocks are Remember this before you half.

is

anything waist-

a strong feature).

and

pants. Avoid anything

and

cropped

rear.

Underwear. Butt-boosting underwear gives butlift.

Thick Ankles

Hosiery. Dark

is

best.

and body-hugging

Pants. Avoid cropped

pants.

Low vamps shaped medium heels make

Shoes. Solid-colored, unadorned.

look longer. Avoid straps and detailing

around the ankle, chunkv very

high

heels,

heels, or stiletto or

because their narrowness

sharply contrasts with the width of the ankle.

Long and

loose,

effect.

worn with above-the-

ankle boots. Avoid flouncy that call attention

skirts

the calves

to

with borders

and

ankles;

eschew miniskirts.

HOW TO BUY THE woman

Just as every

every

your better

is

RIGHT BLACK PANTS

Avoid anything that

the hipline.

woman

a sign of youth. try

concealing

are another figure

needs a good black

dress,

needs the perfect pair of black

pants. Unfortunately,

Large Buttocks

Tops. Wear loose and off-the-shoulder tops.

above the

Skirts.

skirts unless

your top covers your thighs.

skirts

Boots can have a magical

ors are slimming; avoid patterns.

Gibson loose skirts with a drape or soft

the waist

(if

fabrics or any-

Pair vests that cover the rear with straight

legs

Saddlebags

waist appears wider, the hips will not

Look

emphasizing

elongate the foot;

Pants. Try baggy, waist-widening pants

Big Thighs

atten-

roomy, boxy

might be worth

It

more

skirts.

Tops. Peplums are effective, as

tocks a

of pleats, and sarongs.

in clothes tightly at the waist.

the waist and hips look narrower.

Pants.

Avoid

just call

Experiment with Lycra

narrow

shapes that cover die stomach.

Tops. Wear shoulder pads, loose, long blousy tops loosely gathered

than button

pleats

tion to the buttocks).

thing tight; try bias-cut

Bulge

and

hips are narrow. Avoid fitted styles, patterns,

Skirts.

Tops. Wear jackets,

Pants. Don't wear tight pants.

if

and back pockets (they

half.

are flattering. Side

Dresses. Unless you have a small waist, choose

rear.

tops.

Flat Buttocks

Underwear. Try slimming-thigh undergarments.

Tummy

Wide Lower Body

when

skirts.

Pants. Seek out styles with pockets

Pants. Narrow-leg pants

dresses

Avoid cropped

or with buttons up the front can

create allure.

than pants,

flattering

Coats. Belted coats impart shape.

and horizontal you

slim-

Tops. Wear vests and blazers that cover the

also flattering, as are those

show off great

Avoid back

loose and draped, and

Avoid Lycra fabrics and bias-cut

or harem pants. Overalls and pleated or

with baggy pockets, patterns, stripes, or cuffs.

rear.

paired with a jacket or vest that covers the rear.

Sixteen Candles

try wide-leg, pajama-style, bell-bottomed, palazzo,

when

especially

^

more

Skirts are

Skirts.

MOLLY RINGWALD,

Pants. If you want to minimize their proportion,

boot

panties

to a geek.

leg.

tight.

ming.

my

pushers and cigarette-leg, narrow, or cropped

gave

I

wide-leg trousers that minimize the

one woman's perfect pants

woman's nightmare. Pants hug die

more dian

dresses or

light waists, hips, thighs,

skirts.

Thev can

high-

even calves and ankles

What Should Wear? 205 I

High Stacked Stiletto

Sensible

Princess

Stacked Louis XIV

Sabrina

light waists, hips, thighs,

bui there are pants

may

just

take a

style thai suiis

lot ol

even calves and ankles,

nearly evei

on

trying

trud.es

on

figure type,

5

li

you End the

until

roundly

in

the rear

the hips. Lines

— one

— look

and details should

!><

jeans noi so

tiny.

from

hose

able

who

now

ankle and

shorter,

.tie

(tit

and

hips

Capri

like

thighs

with

the

at

pants

oversized,

Women

may

with protruding stomachs

find pants with elastic waists

more

and

hips.

Wear tops made

to

oinloi

I

around the

able. but try to avoid extra fabric waist

<

be worn out-

believe finding the right pair of pants

a mission impossible, pel.

She has

a

work with

is

a personal slu>|>

wealth of experience and max be

able to oiiei you something you hadn't considered.

II

you do find a

extras or have

style

more made

that

in

buj

suits you,

other fabrics.

%ui

cut a pattern for you,

dressmakei

01 tailor will

although

it

will cost extra,

venience

ol

you

will

and

have the con-

knowing you can have pants made

each season that look great on you.

to find fabrics thai will weai well

become slum

velvets, corduroys,

and

and

faille

lustet

over tunc Wool gabardine 01 other lightweight

wools are the best

hoit es.

(

Remember

down

clicking oil

1

..I

pan

is

more

ol a shoe, a bellwethei

them a mile

a mattei still

is

the

ol siuits in

Often, heel fashion woiks on the principle out.

s,.

it's

m."

tation sun e tin-

1

ligh heels have

dawn

Greek drama towered in

ol

signals "female

than dictum. But heel shape

trendies! style. s

Even the sound

heels.

a corridoi

ike skirt length, heel height

I. isle

It

especial!)

is

ale several ol the fabrics that lose then

ol si\lc.

been a temp-

he lead

I

ai

tors ol

ovet then fellow thespians

platform shoes, worn to demonstrate, through then

Men and

exaggerated

s<ale.

women wore

high heels in 17th- and 18th-centur\

urope

l

as a

mark

ol sot

ial

significance.

privilege; ord) the rich

and well-born (the "well-heeled") could afford

DRESSING I

s<-

a

ROOM CHECK minor

thiec-wa\

invest in a

thong

II

be

you see

01 sheet panties.

Some

slim pants

shoes.

II

need

.11

pant) line,

possible. u\

with them.

on the top

softl)

e loo short,

1(1

down

ol youi lulls.

urn are short, remove culls altogether longer line extends across

stomach

tin-

pleats, a tullci

waistband

is

i.tised

above the mud. The attractions

to

ol the

high heel are obvious: a swiveling

gait,

turned ankle, an elongated

and added

inches



all in all,

leg,

a well-

a daintier foot.

an be worn short, but most

break

to

pants

i

a

II

won

pants on with the shoes you'll

trousers

side waistbands.

Hvou

found jeans uncomfort-

to

ankle also creates an illusion ol height rathei

than width.

benefit

si/es

choosing bl.uk pants, n

not

you have

li

previous!}

us thai

find the) are living in streti h jeans

When

the waist and have untapered legs,

Disguise

t

I

fibers.

lain

foi

no more feminizing influence on appear-

["here is

ance than high

addition of up to5 percent Lycra fibers.

tin-

important

lor pants that tapet

look

s

to bu\ fabrics

choosing pants. u\ not

thighs look bettei with pants that arc biggei in

narrow ankles, look

women

thinnest

ol substantial fabric

include

large

01

pants ol

111

Even plus

su\

flaps, but

tin-

SHOE HEELS

differently.

lit

stretch

with the reai pockets on

embroidery or

When

while

.

made

an

sim-

elongated tops. Wearing one color from nee k

206

lightweight fabrU

(

often look best

do look

derrierescan benefit, however, from pocket

awa) from tight pants. Wide behinds

women

get. heaviei

that wrinkle easily, but

pants that

foi

ple

.is

.11

1

thai pro-

Flat

detailing such

that labile sol differing weights

best in pants

you.

you have a "bubble bun"

II

sit

foi

kg,

tin-

01 01

leg

II

— the

Sabrina Sweet

m

an earlv

fetching on a

'60s,

mule

Audrey Hepburnish way;

(a backless shoe).

Vvoid pants thai tug

thighs; fabric

u\

a

cut with

that drapes. If a

causing a tumm) overhang, look for

Princess 1

he Capered and demure

tip of

the court shoe.

Fine for work and evening dress.

a lower-cut or higher-cut waist.

Stacked Provides height and solid ground.

HOW TO UPDATE YOUR

Stiletto

A.k.a. "the spike."

shoe

A

in existence,

force of nature, the sexiest

into "wiggle."

you've built a wardrobe you love,

sad

moment when some

High Stacked

fit

can be a

it

muscles that normally support the breast are

If it's a little

Sensible

qualify clothes

The

seams

be

—ask

a

Usually,

tailor.

let out. If

you haven't worn

rative jacket or

of being very

color, texture,

the neckline.

££I almost

A

deco-

an embroidered scarf can add

and sparkle while

also

changing

you need something new,

If

in a dress with

which can

for a

it

revamping the look by altering

the length or removing shoulder pads.

or very out.

removed, supporting a prosthesis can cause

simple

easily

lines, in

an elegant

invest fabric,

Most insurance companies

MASTECTOMY AND YOUR CLOTHES breast cancer strikes, whole worlds

to crater. Yet today, with so

underwiring;

One

seem

to

looking and

mal with their prostheses, some even

begins before surgery.

mastectomy

and

fitted clothing.

Many

in

is

Love, Loss,

and What

I

Wore

can

colors

be



Swim forms

lighter weight prostheses

Many

difficult.

ordering from

End

Janet McCue, fashion editor of the Cleveland Plain Dealer, reports that the Lands'

and

tissue that

allow you to wear deep, even plunging neck-

terim

means

appearance of normal cleavage.

to filling out

in-

made, more

and

attractive,

But don't be discouraged

you requires some

tor the

last

tried

and

that

you need

feel

how

—booklets on

to obtain

exercise,

and advice on

not obliged to buy anything or pav for the ser-

permanent prostheses.

vice,

which can range from $300 addition to two basic bras.

comes under medical

with your insurance

supplies.

company

first,

Check

then ask

your surgeon to write a prescription for prostheses

and the stores

may be

carrying mastectomy bras,

most do not. Most major

cities,

however,

now

have stores that offer special garments for mas-

at

your favorite

store.

You are

but chances are thev can be enormously

helpful.

arc undergoing chemotherapy, you are

[f you

your

likely to lose

eyelashes,

hair,

You ma) want

including eyebrows and to

shop

the procedure. Natural hair

but

want

bras.

While some fashion specialty and depart-

ment

pretty.

personal shopper

$350 and up, cost

that

pillowy breast

cost of prostheses,

The

more comfortable and

up make you Work with a

to freshen

soft,

Most insurance companies now cover the

in

was

swimsuit you

on?

Recovery



When

error.

first

your wardrobe with a few pieces

after

suits are

expensive

finding the right suit

if

trial

time you bought the

You may find

your bodices. In most

mastectomv patients soon

End

less

than those offered in mastectomv supplv stores.

areas across the country, the group Reach for visits

which

catalog,

your immediate future, discuss

how your chest will look postSurgeons have the opuon of fashioning

lines with the

—are

recommend

patients

Lands'

better

will

speciallv

also available, but finding attractive swimsuits

surgery.

to

ILENE BECKERMAN,

other

usually

ordered.

with your surgeon

substitutes

the dress. }}

of the lingerie and corset companies

includes special suits for mastectomy patients.

surgery, bringing "fluffies"

because of

and

better,

a radical or even partial

If

before ordering a prosthesis, but there are

was

life.

thev don't hesitate to wear stretch Lvcra tops

can be

well established.

is

After surgery, you must wait at least six weeks

it

a part of your

report thev look perfecdy nor-

offer black or any color besides white or buff,

of the routes to looking your old self

"cleavage," protrusions of skin

think

no longer

it's

many women

Yet

many women under-

going mastectomies, the route

I

and

contain pockets that hold the prostheses. Forget

be transformed by accessories.

dressing "normal" again

that party.

pay for two

will

sport-type support bras that fasten in front

but

trouble at

wear your prosthesis

to

the time, especially in the beginning.

supplying mastectomy bras do not normallv

When

got into

You may not want

pain. all

have enough fabric built into the

This distinctive, courtly heel goes through cycles in

try

perhaps the

tight,

out

let

while, consider

XIV

sili-

heavy to match the

relatively

weight of your real breasts. Unfortunately, when

seams can be

to

molded of

best prostheses today are

cone and are

of your favorite pieces

each one on.

legal standard. Traditional. Suitable.

your phone directory

or look fresh. Sometimes they can

be salvaged. Pull out your dressy clothes and

height with better balance.

in

under Lingerie and Corsets or Medical Supplies.

The If

no longer

Louis

tectomy patients. Look

proving the adage that you

have to suffer to be beautiful. Turns "walk"

Stiletto

PARTY

CLOTHES

than

much more to cut let

it

is

for a wig before

more

your hair short and

fall

expensive,

natural-looking. You

may

stylish,

out in clumps, which

also

rather

may be more

Some stores, like Barneys New York, have trained makeup artists in the "Beauty for

depressing.

Life" program, which offers private counseling.

What She



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Where do you start? Sometimes the answer is only as far away as your phone or modem — more and more designers, stores, and manufacturers are diminishing distance with catalogs and Web sites. We've listed some of our favorite places. Some are best visited in person; others can be cruised to on the Net or are just a phone number away. today's world the choices are overwhelming.

In

CRAIG TAYLOR

ADRIENNE VITTADINI

BLOOMINGDALE'S

BURBERRYS

800/785-9443

212/355-5900 for stores

son 2844480 for Mora

(Sportswear)

800/777 4999

(thitmtYtii. clothing,

foi

catalog

and

FASHION MAIL

Mm 111

(Elegant nuiu tniltunl shuts for loomenl

.

http://vAvw.bloomingdaUs oin

it

.

ANN TAYLOR

1

800/9994554

1

department

/null,'

818 719-8600

for stores

800/342-5266 for catalog

BOSOM

(Clothing mill accessories)

911 538-8038

BUDDIES

lllesignei

sun 8?)

212/725-0355

BROOKS BROTHERS

iAtir*u>nr\l

si...

(Giorgio

lot

iSiliume

1

(Casuals

and

barii

1)

DAFFY'S

FILENES 1,1:

CAROLINA HERRERA

womenswoar)

BRUNO MAGLI noil mhi 1.'.'

,.,11

teat

a

is

oss 5258

i

1

mini

bags and

illation.

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it

sterling silver

collections of the

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the

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Museum

DOCKERS

-.hi

son

(

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stores

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800/777-1790

lot stores

(Shots)

Art in

New

A former art direc-

Louvre

in

tor

Hollywood. Kieselstem-

in

Pans.

Cord returned East

more

to look for

satisfying career

pened

BCBG 888/636-2224 irmlx apparel)

sun 87

.

,

present

pscale department store)

field after

he became a huge success work was spotted by a

junior editor of

foi

BLASS

call

st.uc information,

CLUB

known

for his sterling belt

212/221-6660 feature curvy alligators

memory

actually a

smelly childhood pet alligator that

vl

grew

to

1 '<2

feet in the

1

lubmi

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bathtub

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208 Chic Simple

away.

made him

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give 172.

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GIORGIO ARMANI

NY 10012

201/570-1 122 for stores

w-vcw cmsonliiic

(

0111

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,

EDDIE BAUER

212/826-2600 or

son

Mllll

(264020 1!

and outdoor wear and gear)

CONSUMER REPORTS j

urr clothes)

GUCCI !i

Bags and (father goads)

11

j

(Active near)

600 268-2411 Imp:

(luggage and leather goods)

Broadwa)

1

Imp

COACH

234-8224 for stores

(Fine leather goods, scarves.

and

clothing)

EILEEN FISHER INC.

14-1645

H4-0808 for

http://www.< onsumerreporta.org

212

(Consumer Reports magazine

(Relaxed designer clothing)

on-line)

st,,i

I

HANES 800/9944348 http://wssw.hanes.com

COUNTRY ROAD AUSTRALIA

ELLEN TRACY

888 si

800/925-7979

4-2114.'.

(Casuals anil c/rour"

before his mother

'i

of Herbert, a

BIRKENSTOCK 800/487-9255 Slim

w\%s% .

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that

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GEORG JENSEN

uiear)

EASTERN MOUNTAIN SPORTS

probably

buckles and handbag closures

accessories)

GHURKA

MONACO

hop

I

best

and

800/225-9870

a fashion maga-

zine. Kieselstein-Cord is

:

st,,u-~

stores

a

and hap-

GOODMAN

BOO 558-1855

BILL

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jewelry making. Twenty-five years

after his

it

1,,

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wu-vvKup.com

DONNA KARAN/DKNY

CINDERELLA OF BOSTON

taking an evening course in fine

later,

BERGDORF

into his

7774250

son 546425

York and the

t,l

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work

I

ks

HOLLYWO

GAP 115

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(Clothing Imsics

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(Ijngene with sex appeal)

catalog

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of

bags, itml bstts)

BASS/WEEJUN

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1

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Imp

,

store)

stores

2/764-6140

Modern if

"..'"" i,,i

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whose

buckles are included

belt

11

w\c\cliisl\ie\.

sin.

>>"irtr fltorttUg fi'i'l Si

designer and craftsman

Imp

FREDERICK S OF

store!

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ston

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department

"in

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department

lis

and

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fAaosssv designer nUrrtiimr)

wwwjhoDtJ

hup

AKII1K

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(fine jeieeery

'.'12

Kieselstein-Cord

alligator

lot Store

FIELD

store)

BARRY KIESELSTEIN-CORD

catalog

uran

'i

DILLARD S PARK PLAZA

Barry

foi

FIRSTVIEW

1)

NEW YORK

psoale tpectaltf

...II

women

sun 89J 2450

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jun

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DAYTON HUDSON/MARSHALL

1

888 222-7639 lm store information (/

com

*s*« D.illss N 'lift

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818 'mi

son

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CASHMERE CASHMERE BARNEYS

bra or

rirt'iniffj

Imp

144-1613

REPUBLIC

8B8/BRSTY1

win

211

CARTIER

BANANA

gel-filletl /ohies fee

tol stole infos lll.lllon.

Armani denims and

shitpping on-line)

FEUSSIMO

Mora

,

(fewebj)

ARMANI A/X 212/570-1122 for stores

omentenl

CAROLEE

(Nursing bras)

APROPO

it lassii

|40

wwwJashionmaO.com

CURVES

CALVIN KLEIN

store)

s-.M-i

Imp:

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>

1

igner

women

's

clothes)

HENRI BENDEL

LAZARUS

212/247-1 100 for stores

937/439-2152

(Upscale specialty

(Major

store)

retailer

for stores of better

women

's

MOTHERS WORK

QVC

TIMEX

800/4-MOM-2-BE

800/345-1515

800/367-8463

(Maternity wear)

http://www.qvc.coin

http://www.timex.com

(Cable fashion television)

(Watches)

merchandise)

NATORI

HERMES 800/441-4488 for stores

LEVI'S

(Fine bather goods, clothes,

800/USA-LEVI

and jewelry)

(Denim and sportswear)

for stores

S

(Elegant lingerie)

212/683-7613

NAUTICA

of designer sample sales)

HUSH PUPPIES

THE LIMITED

800/280-3368

800/7564449

(Active wear)

http://www.netpad.com/

FIFTH

AVENUE

CLAIBORNE

800/825-8000 for catalog

saksfifthavenue

800/555-9838

800/937-9146 for stores

(Upscale department

(Designer wear)

http://www.neimanmarcus.com store)

BEAN STORE/CATALOG

http://tweeds.com

L.L.

(Designer wear)

800/543-9071

NINE WEST

(Designer clothing

http://www.Ilbean.com

800/260-2227

accessories)

(Outdoor wear and gear)

(Shoes

212/838-9470 for national

and

(Casual wear)

LORD & TAYLOR

NIKE

800/99-Sanyo

212/391-3344 for stores

800/344-6453

(Chtality foals

store)

1

1

'pscale

department

store)

CREW

http://www.nike.com (Sportsweai

and

LOUIS,

http://www.jcrew.com

800/225-5135 for stores

NORDSTROM

(Designer clothes)

800/285-5800

classics)

shoes

for catalogue

http://www.nordstrom/pta.coni

LOUIS VUITTON

BARTLETT

call

(Upscale department

212/245-4860

(Designer wear)

PETERMAN COMPANY'S

(Designer clothes)

310/657-5475 for national

MACY'S

(Eyeglasses

and

accessories)

212/695-4400 for East Coast stores

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

http://www.jpeternian.com

415/393-3457 for West Coast stores

for store information,

(Department

call

store)

800/4JPTODS

MALO 877/SEE-MALO

PARISIAN

(Driving moccasins)

(Cashmere)

800/443-6856

TOD'S

and

MARSHALL

800/292-2450

http://www.kencole.com

(Upscale department

http://www.sears.com

(Fine ni'rhs

iDepartment

for stores store)

iSwirnwrin and sportswear)

SPIEGEL

212/751-6550

shapes and moods

CATALOG

with a keen

(Coats, lingerie, accessories,

and an

and

clothes)

for stores

TALBOTS

800/225-8200 (Clothing

magazine, today she

one

is

of

wear and

evening

bridal for

nnd

fluid lines

the

in

accessi

gowns

<

her

sense TARGET STORES

MICHAEL KORS LANDS' END

for store information,

800/356-4444

call

http://www.landsend.com

(Designer wear)

and her of fabric

architectural

and form, she

eschews frou-frou

http://www. target com I

Hash

(Wool garments)

evening TIFFANY & CO. 212 605-4612

PLAZA TOO

(Head-to-toe accessories)

life,

lot

formal

favor

in

(Fine jewelry

and

she was

At

one

point

and

in

her

a competitive figure a spot

in

the

accessories)

Olympic games. She now dresses

and singers

TIMBERLAND

celebrity actresses

800/25&O85S

from Sharon Stone to Manah

http://www.timberland.coni (Active wear

tlotl/csl

attire.

skater, vying for

POLO/RALPH LAUREN

(Designer

eolumnic dresses and

stores

800/756-7656 http://www.poloialphlauren.coin

of sleek

simple, very wearable day

si

800/972-4179

shoes)

she brings out

800/800-8800

PENDLETON WOOLEN MILLS

(Designer dollies)

s)

(Active wear)

800/841-7202

212/221-1950

age 23, she began

gowns. Most recognized

PATAGONIA

800/206-6872

and

modern

extraordinarily

the most sought-after designers

s)

800/336-9090

(Maternity went)

MAXMARA

(Finely crafted buckles, bags,

of design

her career as an editor at Vogue

STEPHANE KELIAN

hltp://www.pendlelon usa.com

888/531-2002

the

of clothes

awareness

sensibility. At

of store)

http://www.maternal-instinct.com

(Costume jewelry)

KLEINBERG SHERRILl

Wang

Wang understands

Vera

BOO 3454500

(Designei stun

888/MATERNAL

for store information,

i

store)

http://www.patagonia.com

MATERNAL INSTINCTS KENNETH JAY LANE

CLEEF & ARPELS

800/992-9010

(Shoes)

(Clothing basil

accesories)

FIELD

800/KEN-COLE

call

800 U.A-5797

212/925-3077

(Upscale department

KENNETH COLE

VAN

212/354-6777

(Designei clothing J.P.

SEARS 847/286-5188

listings

800/231-7341

classics)

(Casual wear)

800/5-SPEEDO

800/45-MACYS

and

able raincoats)

Vera OLIVER PEOPLES

OWNER'S MANUAL

(Casuals

215/569-3131 for stores

SPEEDO

http://www.vuitton.com

and international J.

long, lightweight park-

stare)

800/285-2255

for store information,

URBAN OUTFITTERS

and

I

BOSTON

800/782-8244

JOHN

UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON

SANYO

(Department

and

and

800/5354491

http://www.jcpenney.com

(Casuals

(Fashionable basics, accessor" listings

accessories)

800/222-6161

J.

CASHMERE

800/999-7997

store)

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

800/340-6004

PENNEY

classics)

TWEEDS

LIZ

(Upscale department

and

(Cashmere clothing)

http://www.dreamshop.com/

(Mora)

ISAAC MIZRAHI

(Casuals

800/487-3692

NEIMAN MARCUS

hushpuppies

JC

monthly mailer

212/7534000

Sjioi!\wear)

i

to receive

TSE

SAKS

HILFIGER

800/888-8802

($49 annual fee

800/433-HUSH 800/313-5699

TOMMY

& B REPORT

212/532-7796 for stores

and

shot

Carey

—and yes.

Olympic

silver

s)

medalist Nancy Kerrigan.

gowns, page

See

107.

What Should Wear? 209 I



WANG

VERA

Stubbs & Wootton

212/879-1700

1

RAZOOK'S

Mores

lor

(Designer evening wear

15

and

bridal

Percey Stelnhart

set

first

i,i,i,li

up shop

as Stubbs and Wootton

in

Beach,

800/440-8144

he translated

(Designer wear}

elegant needlepoint slipper into

love of the

his

TAHITI STREET 1

for

velvet,

In

wit h

men

WATHNE

suede,

sisal,

or tapestry,

and detailed

with

hand-sewn

embroidery,

Stubbs and Woottons season-

moo 'niMii.1,

c

06830

1

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for

maximum

(Elegant aetivewear)

comfort and

day and evening

for

lS/KiHllt\ UOTt

Illinois

\1

chernin's

CALVIN KLEIN OUTLET

the unexpected with each

in

Wea

85

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Bow su,

1

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among

(

EXPECTATIONS MATERNITY

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North Habted Streel

hicago,

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District of COI

8061

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Suite

them

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vases

palm

wind-blown

monikered

CA 90046

trees,

3219

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FLASHY TRASH

NW

Street,

1524 North

Washington, DX 20007

i

hicago,

You may

"El Nifio."

1

1715

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Habted

Streel

FOURTEEN CARROTS

60

(Vmlf esothmgfnm

ihr I'Hii's

variety «l

secondhand

clothes)

embroidery on the

such as a

slipper,

front of

your

family crest or

AMERICAN RAG ,ee leopard-

person..

South La Brea

10

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tl-imtkntl ii,

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207 276

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Preepon Ml

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7579 Melrose Avenue Los Angeles,

and

access---

UP AGAINST THE WALL

and

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embroidered designs

of his

AAARDVARK'S

,

207 865-1051

,

S

itchfield.

860

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|

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wear. Steinhart enjoys throwing

STATE LISTINGS

linton Stn

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hicago

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New Orleans LA 70118

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Atlanta,

10

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quirky tuxedo

068

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661-6603

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701 16

1899

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941 15

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LEATHERS & TREASURES

21

JONES

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1834 ili,

7M

vs

LSI

155-2998

810

to

01

Washington Avenue

MIMI

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Ml 04605

655-7541

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1

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5

100

1480

|uli

77-.; '

I

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ZOE MATTIE I

I

125

AND

FRIENDS

Town Center Way

Palm Desert,

CA 92260

San

l-i. in, is, ,,.

ii:.

"'jo-inn

CA

94

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New

655-4105

,i.i

2400 Fillmore Street

mbroidi

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LA 70730

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504 527-6464

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Streel

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UTOPIA

(Designei clothing)

ME

04032

760 568-3576

bob (Maternity clothes)

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ellis !',

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wear)

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os Angeles,

CA 90069

20 Killingworth Turnpike, #205

.

shoes)

CT 06413

Clinton,

310 274-8800 si, tl

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New

York.

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designei clothes)

Saks Fifth

210

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121" Massachusetts Avenue

.

MA 02138

POD NEW YORK

IN THE

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653

Vl

New

libit,

-.6468

-

Fifth

Avenue

York.

NY

41 East 57th Street

New

10022

NT

York.

1

150 Second Avenue

New

10022

York.

212 644-5945

212 446-3459

and

(Fine jewelry

(Vintage clothing from the I960't

A.P.C

CELINE

DOLCE & GABBANA

and

131

598 Madison Avenue

434

New

New

watches)

NT 10021

1

(Maternity clothes)

Cambridge.

GIORDANOS

DIEGO DELIA VALLE

CART1ER

Madison Avenue

Designer shoes)

'Petite shoes)

I

617 491-2654

7

Mercer Street

New TALBOTS' PETITE COLLECTION

100 Cambridge Side Place

Cambridge.

I

and

Clothing

HOUSE

AT HAVENS

(Tatbots store devoted to petit/

Madison

fadmms\

Sag Harbor.

Michigan

'Vintage

PENNY PINCHER

BARBARA

12219 Dix Road

1 1

.

1

1

10022

NT 10012

York.

New

intage designer clothing

(Designer a

(Biding apparel and equipment!

CENTURY

DOLLAR

BILL

32 East

42nd

NT

New

11963

and

NT

New

10007

212 227-9092

and new

clothing!

_

(Discounted clothing

and

CHARIVARI

BUI

York.

21

York.

NY

57th Street

New

10012

York.

NT

10019

accessories)

_

712

NT 10017

York.

--"212

-

(Womenswear

DOMSEYS

ILENE -

NT

11211

(Designer ctothes)

(Designer collections)

(Secondhand and iintage clothing)

1044 Madison Avenue

231 Main Street

NH

Franconia.

York.

NT

212 317-

hill

to the

-

HAAN

(Saturai-flber fabrics far

home

clothes)

New

10021

York.

NT

10021

212 481-8440

.

and

(Sportswear)

'

BELGIAN SHOES

COMME

60

1

Shoes

F-isl

56th Street

New

New

leather goods)

(Classic

DES

GARCONS

NT 10021

16 Wooster Street

1

10 Fifth

NH

03860

New York

women

116-118 Prince Street

NT 10012

212 925-4649 accessories)

212 727-3240

(Classic shoes)

(Designer clothes)

'Armani

York.

NT

10012

New

BEST OF

NY

1

12 Wooster Street

New

loo 17

York.

NT

10012

"-9020

.

(Women's cashmere sweaters at discount)

(Designer ctothmgi

BOGNER OF AMERICA

DANA BUCHMAN

.

821 Madison Avenue

New

York.

NT

57th Street

New

10021

York.

NY

10022

212 472-0266

212 31'

iShwear)

(Designer clothes)

mm

150 West 30th Street 0001

New

York.

21

NT 10022

212 319-0303

(Furs designed by Oscar de la Renta.

(Shoes

and fine

.

7

NT 1001

suits,

New

.

.

NT

10012

1-8406

NT

10012

New

Thompson

toiletries)

J.

1

York.

NT

466 Broome Street

New

10012

212 25S-222S (SouOxwestem

clothes

and

boots)

York.

NY

York.

-

NT 10028

(Women's

New York NV

4 \\

107 Greene Street

New

fork.

.

a

.

J12/371-85

NY 10012

(Shoes)

JOSEPH

i

.

-0990

York.

NT

loo 12

212 979-6313 (Clothes

Greene

Street

NY

124 Prince Street

212 343-7071

York.

NT 10012

York.

10012

(Great pants)

212 925-6641 JUDITH LEIBER

987 Madison Vve

GEOFFREY BEENE :;h

!

ON THE

PLAZA

New fcrt.Nl 10021

A\enue

York.

NT

11*122

(7-4003

(Handbags,

belts,

and

J4J470 .

KATE SPADE 434 Broome Street

472 West Bro.idw.o

(Feminine yet hip boutique offerings)

5

New

!

280 Molt Street

.

">Mh Street. 13th Floor

FREELANCE

(Designer clothes)

New

shoes)

FRAGMENTS

(Designer dot'

NT 10012

NT 10021

-2100

JOAN & DAVID

New

DETOUR

York.

York.

.

(Designer retail shop)

212 2263647

CALYPSO

New

WESTON

212/87 "-2850

10013

(Designer clothes)

M.

New

132 Madison Avenue

DEBRA MOOREFIELD Street

and

(Designer clothing

ENCORE

New

-

(Designer clothes)

NY 10014

casual uenr. eyewear,

'Hip ihoest

131

113 Greene Street York.

York.

212 77" leather goods)

BUFFALO CHIPS

New

Street

York.

212 366-4300

1 1

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SUI

gton Street

DARYl

.\\eniie

212 736*550

Valentino, Joseph

Street

NT 10012

812 Madison Avenue

New

212 644-0403

BOTTEGA VENETA

AUXANDRE

1

York.

New

CYNTHIA ROWLEY

SCOTLAND

York.

York.

(Designer jewelry

NT

Thompson

(Designer resale shop)

A\enue

212 219-0660

New

ANNA

1880 s

womenswear)

New

581 Fifth Avenue

York.

appointment onhl

212 941-4737

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212 755-737!

(Outdoor wear and gear)

New

bv

'

EMPORIO ARMANI

and

and

York.

New-York. NT 10022

603/356-2100

(Clothing

101

24 East 64lh Street

212 7524]

16

North Coimajr,

York.

-"'564

INDUSTRIA

LL BEAN FACTORY OUTLET

New

667 Madison Avenue

EMIUO PUCCI

03580

800/622-6216

b.

CHAZANOF

-

-

(Vintage accessories from the

"

-

NT 10019

(Specialty sure)

at discount)

431 Kent Avenue

Brooklvn.

Avenue

York.

212 247-1100

212 333-1040

New

agnes

Fifth

New

INA

New Hampshire

Rome

_

HENRI BENDEL Street

-

COLE

and

NT 10016

-MiOoO

(French specialty store)

accessories)

decor

York.

_

5 Wooster Street

New

MI 48195

-1-8100

garnet

KAUFFMAN & SONS SADDLERY

419 Park Avenue South

212 965-8000

22 Cortlandt Street

Street

"-V4634

Southgate.

NY

-6262

_

.

accessories)

York.

H.

Broadwav

MA 02141

-1414

-

3

NY 10012

York.

212 966-9683

W

and

accessories)

New

York.

NT

M991 ^agsi

10013

WATCH STORE

LINDA DRESNER

PATRICIA PASTOR

STELLA DALLAS

THE

484 Park Avenue

19 East 71st Street

218 Thompson Street

6 19 B]

New York. NY

New

New

York.

NY

10022

New

NY

York,

212/308-3177

212/734-4673

(Designer clothing}

(\ uilii^r

10021

mill accessorii

ilnlln-\

NY

New

(Hals)

212/226-3600

212

10012

New

York,

NY 10003

212/228-3802 I

West

Street

:>4tli

York.

NY

10019

I'.ll

693

New

\\ 10012

Y.,i k.

CHRISTINE

Venue

Fifth

V.ik.

M

York.

212

NY

SCREAMING MIMI'S

'.111 190

(Design*

worm ruuMorJ

<

MORGENTHAL New

Vbrk,

212 71

NY

91

I

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fork,

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212 Til Vis

(Matemu)

I

1.

1

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^*

*

1

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212 92

212 753-9021

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outet

TRASH AND VAUDEVILLE

Mut

si

212 777-1727

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New

Moll

NY

216

(

New

Ml, Mieel

si

New Vbrk NY 212

York.

NY

10023

\i

NORIKO MAEDA

York,

NY

WONDERS

(/ '/muli'

designer fashions}

136 Wesl 18lh Street

New

York,

NY

10011

Vbrk,

NY

215

10021

ON

75 East

ss

711

1

New York NY

Avenue

212 427-2730

NY

(Elegant dassi

lout

i

3600

Specialty store)

10022

(Auction housi

',12

garments t)

before

/..,

7-sTu

1

VlRCISI

LEVY'S

and

accessor!

2120 Barrack-, Road

I'A

19103

s-5760

and

\A 22903

',-4270

17 South 17th Slrccl

(Clothing

clothing)

PA 19106

Philadelphia.

vintage

1

II-

CharlottcsMlle.

10128

an

OBJECTS

THE SQUARE

dt

Street

foi

IX

\usiin.

687.

i( liii/iirig

WILLIAM DOYLE GALLERIES

KNITS

York,

<

1\ 75205

1512 South Congress

TOBY LERNER

1

Filth

rescent

UNCOMMON

Philadelphia,

(Wedding and party

New

t

FJkhuPark. PA 19027

717 W.ilmii Street Si

14023

212/75'.

OUT OF OUR CLOSET

New

770,

NY

605

212 717-0330

l.isi

272(1070

JOHN

-,.n,

tYmlagr Western

212 879-1750

ST.

PA 19103

dotiang)

Road

(Maternity wear)

10021

clothing)

STANLEY KORSHAK

Street

279]

WANG

VERA

985 Madison Ivenue

New

-

7'U4 High s,l„H,l Road

i

122', 1,-lleison

711,

Walnut

PILEGGI

Rochester,

tive u'iui)

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nr\i

net

25

SMALL

wn

'."

10012

Avenue

212/496-0933

\

MENDELSOHN

(Shoes)

lolurobus

I

5284)528

1

I

212 21"

NAUTICA

KNIT

t

UNTITLED, INC.

Stun

Vbrk,

Highland Park VOIage

Dallas.

14*9490

SIGERSON MORRISON

U

21

iHtfj ouiee fiml dotitkng)

26 WS

!

SSsM V VM\

I'lnl.iilelphi.i.

Place

59 Wbostet Stn

I

MM,

DODSON

I

'tec

New Vbrk NV

'asses)

ill

LILLY

>'

SELIMAOPTIQUE el

i

Dallas

Pi

I

ami

intagr clothing from the 194

and

fWafuwl/iftw ceolktng)

New Vbrk N> 10012

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1\ 752U4

OR 97212

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West Broadwaj

New Vnk. \\

SIS

212

1

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I

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214 720

to-iiml buttons)

TOOTSIE

and

AHAB BOWEN Dallas,

\\ 10021

v., k

vintagt clothes)

M

in

615 356*430

2614 Boll Ss

(//,/,

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i

-

;..;

1100 ni Fremont

New Vbrk NV 10012

New York, NY 10012

i,

GAZELLE

MUIMUI loo Prince Strei

OR 9721

503 2394605

(Hard

I

5133 Harding Road

\iw-

212 758-7004

I

clothes)

BUnONS

,-i

I

the 1'

Hawthorne

batkm foods)

l,77i,li.l

SEARLE

image clothing from

(Vintage clothing

s, » vbrk, x-,

.in,

10028

ilnistine, olunihus ,,,iu

212

(Designei clothing

49 ["hird \w

:

\,„

212 719

MOTHERHOOD

i

382 Lafayette Street

loo-'l

I

(Glasses)

i

I

FREDERICS

914 M.ulivin Awniic

\

ZELDA VINTAGE CLOTHIERS 'Cur,

chening)

Portland,

TENDER

10012

ok

ELMUNDO ,./

{hiilinii retro clothing)

New

Summit

www

I'rmrl

i

(Japann

MARC JACOBS

l\

10022

i

6: iii3oo

Louise Avenue

1

Nashvilh

Nashvilli

109 Prince Street

wrarl

615 S29

t)

REPLAY

and formal

sportsuvar

i

COLUMBUS

hup:

i

21

i

NV 10022

Y..ik

Women

to the

TAKASHIMAYA

>""l designei dotht

i

97068

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k

Lake Oswego

108-2332

Drive

ANTHONY 15

(Luggagt

(Design*! thoes)

L63 Mercei Street

ok

)ron,

s Viiisen

New

212/582-1583

1

New

NY10022

MANOLO BLAHNIK '.I

w.si

and

212 750-9797

Shot

l\

PIECES

Wulamenc

45 last ,7lh Street

I

New

CASSIE S

1!

i

New 212

Vintage tloilungi

t

York,

North Peters Road

I

Knoxvilli

t

JOS 656-7141 T

PRADA

Second Avenue

19

access"

t

I

LOVE SAVES THE DAY 1

'..i«.'.-.

<lhfi clothes

Wiyake's tecond Uru

(Isse\

.

New Vbrk NV

128 VVoostci Street

212/279-9093

Vbrk,

CLOTHES BY MERTIE I

and

Oregon

on Wbostet mi,

PLEATS PLEASE

NY 10018

10012

I

i)

STEVEN ALLEN

York,

NY

Vbrk,

Watches

i

i

TtSNESSEE

...tilw.iv

i"

212

uropean designei

./

LOLA 535 Eighth Avenue

New

10012

212 674-0447

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L

\

.

accessories)

1198 Parifii Avenue Virginia Beach,

VA 23451

757 437-1205 I

Designer casual

and formal

D

and designei

excellent refcrmcf

you attend the auction: Carotene \li!hiink\ book,

Great Design,,

Couture, the

s

212/633-6965 (////,

designer resale

<

lathes)

212 Chic Simple



INTERNATIONAL LISTINGS Australia BELINDA

BROWNS

HARRODS

MARKS AND SPENCER

SPACE

23-27 South Mollon Street

Knightsbridge

458 Oxford Street

37 Earlham Street

London Wl

London SWI

London

171/491-78*3

171/730-1234

171/629-9161

171/379-7030

(Designei dothing)

(Upscale department

99 Kensington High Street

(Simple,

store)

London

8 Transvaal Avenue, Doubleday

Sydney 2/328-6288 I

\\

I

NK

London WC2

N

modern

clothes

and

accessoru

s)

W8

BURBERRYS

HARVEY NICHOLS

171/938-3711 for branches

SWAINE, ADENEY, BRIGGS & SONS

165 Regent Street

109-125 Knightsbridge

(De/tartmrnt

54

London SWI

London SWI

171/930-3343

171/235-5000

MUJI

171

(Upscale department store)

26 Great Marlborough Street

(Riding

store)

James Street

St.

London

V\

1

Australian designer clothes)

COUNTRY ROAD AUSTRALIA

(Outerwear, 'lathing,

and accessories)

409-7277 clothes

and

accessories)

London Wl Pill Street

Mall

BUTLER 142

AND WILSON

HOBBS

171/494-1 197 for branches

WAREHOUSE

Pitt Street

Long Acre

189 Fulbam Road

124

London SW3

London

Sydney

2/282-6299

19-21 Argyll Street

(Natural-fiber clothing)

WC2

London Wl

171/352-3045

171/836-0625

(CostumeJewelry)

(Shoes

NEXT PLC

171/437-7101

160 Regent Street

(Runway

(Classic sportswear)

and

clothing)

21

I. a

copies at affordable pi

London Wl

DAIMARU Melbourne 3/660-6666 (Upscale department

AND JONES

JIGSAW

171/434-2515 for branches

224-44 Regent Street

65 Kensington High Street

(Clothing

Londond Wl

London

171/734-7070

171/937-3572

NICOLE FARHI

171/487-4484

(Department

(Fashionable clothing)

193 Sloane Street

it lassie,

DICKINS

Trobe Street

and

WHISTLES 12-14

accessories)

W8

St.

Christopher Place

London Wl

'•low) store)

influential designs!

London SWI

DAVID JONES

EMMA HOPE SHOES

JO MALONE

171/235-0877

33 Amwell Street

154 Walton Street

(Designer clothing)

London EC1

London SW3

171/833-2367

171/581-1101

(Designer shoes)

(Citrus

Japan

Elizabeth Street

Sydney 2/266-5544

comme OASIS

des

garcons

Minami-aovama

5-11-1

(Upscale department store)

and floral fragrance

tkincare)

28A Kensington Church

GEORGES JONES

FENWICKS

Street

W8

London

Minato-ku

Tokvo

171/938-4019 for branches

3/3207-2480

162 Collins Street

63

Melbourne

New Bond

Street

1

London WTY

3/283-5535 (Upscale department store)

171/6294161

171/379-4448

(Department

(Clothing

iniessonrs)

(Designer clothing)

PATRICK

COX SHOES

ISETAN

8 Symons Street

3-14-1

London SW3

Shinjuku-ku

JOSEPH

171/730-6504

Tokvo

77-79 Fulham Road

ISA,.,,

3/3352-1

and

accessories)

STEPHEN DAVIES DESIGNER SHOES

FLANNELS

'iiiil

WC2

London

store)

(Clothing

5 Floral Street

Shinjuku

65 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy Unit

Melbourne

10,

Royal Exchange

Manchester

3/419-6296 (Custom-made

London SW3

M2

PAUL SMITH

161/834-8669

171/883-9500

(Designei clothing)

(Designer clothing

THE GAP 3

Shop 139

91

Myer Centre

,

Queen

Long Acre

1

London

and

gieul pants)

10-44 Floral Street

JURGEN LEHL

London W<

5-3-10

12

Minami-aovama

KAREN MILLEN

171/379-7133

Minato-ku

45 South Molton Street

(Smart, lap fashion)

Tokvo

London

W1Y

3/349&43723

171/495-5297

PRADA

(Clothing)

43-45 Sloane

(pipanese-deslgned clothe .) 1

Street

wardrobe

and

accessories)

Streel

essentials)

Great Britain

GHOST 36

agnes

WC2

170-0779 for branches

171

(Clothing (Stylish

WOMEN

shoes)

Brisbane Myer

1

1 1

Specialty store)

I

THE WITCHERY

Level

i

l

edburj Road

London SWI

NORIKO MAEDA

KENZO

171/235-0008

6-8-1

15 Slostne Street

(Designei clothing

Ion, I. ,n Wll

London SWI

171/229-11117

171/235-4021

(Designei clothing)

(Designer clothing

and

accessories)

(

Ginza, 4th Floor

Ihuo-ku

Tokyo

B.

35-36 Floral Street

London WC2

ROBERT CLERGERIE and

accessor!

s)

67 Wigmore Street

3 3573-6008 I

I

/imiiIi

designei clothing

London Wl

171/379-1992 (Clothes

and

LIBERTY

im Sloane Street

210-214 Regent Street

Inn

I

BARKERS OF KENSINGTON i

63 Kensington High Street

London

:

i

London Wl

SWI

235-6707

32-33 Old Bond Street

W8

171/937-5432

London

171/935-3601

TAKASHIMAYA

(Elegant footwear)

2-4-1

Nihonbashi. Chuo-ku

lokvo

'

3/3211-4111

171/734-1234

SELFRIDGES

(Clothing in"! accessories)

400 Oxford Streel

W1X

I

Designer clothing!

London Wl

171/629-2716 (Department

OF LONDON

GUCCI accessaries)

LULU GUINNESS

171/629-1234

66 Ledbury Road

(Department

store)

(Di signet <loth'*

"ml

accessories)

store)

London Wll 171-221-9686 (Bags)

What Should We I

,

SILVER

— Enzo Angiolini HANDBAG — GuCCi; JEANS — &

Levi Strauss

HAT— Gap:

straw

Co.;



POWDER-BLUE WOOL BOUCLE SUIT JACKET WITH ENAMEL FLOWER

i

12

shirt

— Polo Ralph

Lauren;

SUNGLASSES — C.iImii KU'lli: CELBLACK WATCH — Sw. Hi LULAR phone — Motorola; CELLULAR PHONE CASE — T. Anthony; black nylon bag — Gap; BLACK SUEDE sneakers — Private collecli:

I

/

I

ion ol Ail. mi

suit

n

ra

SHIRT—Emitio

I'm

,

Elizabeth



23

TURQUOISE FLOWERED PAREO — Ad lellilc \'ill.t(lilli:

I

Lauren Collection; WOOL TWILL SUIT AND

CASHMERE TURTLENECK — R.ilpli amen Collet lion; 1

— Bottega Veneta;

SOCKS — Hoi Sox; SUEDE SHOES — Laura Ashley; SUNGLASSES — Moigentli.il Frederics RIGHT: black BEADED GOWN — Halstoli; CLOSED-TOE HEELS — I'.lloma; CZ TEAR-DROP

SUIT JACKET



24 25

< 1

1

MaxMai a

LEFT TO RH.II

BAG—

BRONZE

SILK

Crysallis

al

1'i.nl.l,

WEB WRAP —

D.P. Ai

i

Armani;

CHAMPAGNE

COL-

ORED SATIN JACKET — Osi.u cle la Renta: EMBROIDERED

ORGANZA BLOUSE — The Smiths;

PEWTER SILK SHIRT-



DRESS Ralph 1. linen; COPPER SATIN BROCADE EVENING JACKET Oscar de



la



t

PUMPS— Kennelll

Renta: SILVER

SEQUINED

i

» BLACK

\ll.ills

Roth

SILVER

|ohn tverson

fbl

(

(

roningei

al

RED LIPSTICKS

— Face

i

.i.n

1

1

in

i

BRUSH— M



Fragments;

38

o;

POWDER

\(

FRAGRANCE BOTTLES —

— Felissimo; — Barneys;

BLACK PATENT LEATHER

Small blue bottle

sandals — Birkenstock

Large blue bottle

MIDDLE LEFT: BLACK SUNGLASSES. SILVER HOOP EARRINGS, BLACK PLASTIC CUFFS— Agatha:



Ralph Lauren

l>\

Stockholm, Maybelline, I'n s. ipiiM s Stila. Studio

akashimaya;

SILVER CUFF BRACELETS C.u.i

16-37

)ptieal

( I



k

CAMEL-HAIR POLO COAT Ralph

PENDANT —

al

LACE BUSTIER

Barnevs New Vol

BikIiiii.iii



In isii.m

Cole:

1

li

BLACK RAYON CREPE dress— MaxMara FAR LEFT: BLACK SUNGLASSES (



(

i

MATTE GOLD CUFF— Koheil ee Mm ns RED BEAOED scarf — Urvashi al \piopo

essoi ies;

MULTI-HUED RAYON-NYLON BLEND JACKET Giorgio

SOUARE

I



i.

5s :.'

kom

Kenneth |.i\ .me black satin ILINOBACKS—Walter

glasses— I). in.

yellow

1

S-

1

1

FLOWER EARRINGS —

I

Pianoforte

(

.it

black satin belt WITH RHINESTONE buckie— tn Leiber; sun-



\(

KWISI



l> P.

Steigei

MOCHA

i.h\.

I

VELVET



lOI' RH.II

s.

tic



R.ilpli

belt

Urn

WOOL

Klein

\m\ SILVER-MIRROR BAG \pnipn; FLORAL(hail PATTERNED POUCH \di in. al. is. SQUAREHEELED PUMPS— Anne Klein: SANDALS WITH RHINESTONE BUCKIE Mil. H Weil/ni. in; RED SILK

1

SEQUINED DRESS

I

Crew

RED

01 ki

I

not

SORIES,



BLACK

BLACK RAYON CREPE

DRESS— M.is.M.il.1

I

I

ii.

Corvello;

suede gloves

i,

GOLD LINK

I'liasso;

PUMPS— \nne

SUEDE

clasp — Kenneth |aj ane; BEADED RHINESTONE clutch — |udith eibei RHINESTONE AND PEARL

i.

BAG—James

mules—J.

BELT— I'aloma

13

collection

BLACK

HANDBAG —

I'.lloina I'll. isso;

Ksu an

ioletto al

i

1

(.lass, u. in;

\.l.illl

LEATHER



1

22 SILK

NAVY COAT — l'l.nl.i; CASHMERE SWEATER— Dnnu.i K. in: GOLD NECKLACE —

LIME-GREEN TERRY HAT Gap; LIME-GREEN SUEDE

isa \ i

Beene

,11



..t

ss,,i \i GRAY PEARL CHOKER WITH RHINESTONE

OPEN-TOE SANDALS — Aline Klein; lavender suede necklace Fragments RIGHTi LIME-GREEN BIKINI Gap;

L.

GOLD HOOP EARRINGS AND CHARM \R KU.II

1

black sequined

i

MANNEOUINS — Ceolliev



214 Chic

lei

I



bracelet — Private

T-SHIRT

01 ke,

1

BLACK OUIITED-LE ATHER handbag Chanel; black PUMPS— B.ll ne\s Ne« ^<>l



ALLIGATOR CLUTCH WITH GOLD BUCKLE — Kl. nt»< u Sli, Mill PEWTER LUREX WOVEN ORGANZA SCARF I

— Carolina

SILVER SKIRT

THONGS WITH GOLD SEQUINS — Mill Mm: BLACK



LEFT; LAVENDER STRETCH dress Bisou Bisou; straw HAT Anne Yllllle Sola;

/5 LEFT;

Donna

DRESS Pamela Dennis; BLACK SLEEVELESS POLYESTER DRESS — \l.l\M.ll.l SATIN LEOPARD-PRINT

Kenneth Jay Lane

ii

<

Celine;

GOLD-MESH FLOOR-LENGTH



.mi

CARDIGAN AND

Locke

Klein; EVENING BAG — Nine West; PEARL CHOKER —



— Stuan

gold BRACELET—Elizabeth



|olin

BLACK WOOL PANTSUIT — Rii bard M> i. silk ivory

I

INTAGLIO. SAPPHIRE, AND

COWL NECK CREPE

.

RAYON CREPE BELT — M.ixM.ll.l GOLD LINK BRACELET— llAlbelh

MavM.ua. BLACK FLATFRONT SKIRT— Ralph

Weitzman; Venetian glass

Classman

RK.lll

FAUX PEARL EARRINGS — \lisli FAUX PEARL NECKLACE —Get ml Vosca; black

camisole— Giorgio Vrmani; GOLD RAYON T-SHIRT —



Cole Sandals

JERSEY (ill Sill. Ill; BLACK SATIN SANDALS cK Calvin

II

29

"panther" RHINESTONE CLUTCH Judith l.eiher; GLOVES — Reem M.iiia foi Fragments; SUEDE BOOTS — Kennelll essories;

i

MIDDLE

bane!

(

1'

DRESS—Nicole Milk SCARF— Civsalhs al D.P.

AND BLACK



27

BUTTONS— St

silver

k

>i

(

|

SILK CAMISOLE WITH RED beading — Gabriella /.in/am

(

\>

AND EBONY CUFF — Ex Ovo;

AND LACE DRESS —

2h

SWEATER SET— .islmicle Cashmere; black mini

\.

D8 SUIT

BLACK POLISHED-LEATHER in. BLACK CAPBELT — TOED PUMPS AND SCARF

New

Bai neys



Geoffre] Beene

Bruno Magli

resources

Geoffre) Beene: SILVER VEL-

VET

STRIPED BAN-

DEAU AND BOTTOM — Calvin Klein; PALE-GREEN SUEDE clogs — Banana Republic; BLACK PATENT PUMPS

I?

HEADBAND — W.lthne: BLACK nylon TOTE—Prada from



clutch 16

jacket Bill Blass; gray AND BLACK BEADED WRAP shirt Carmen Man Valvo; SILK KNIT SWEATER SET



— M &J Savitt; AND SATIN

earrings

All others

42

— Brosse. USA,

BUTTER CASHMERE

HALTER— M-A-G; NYLON ORANGE JACKET— United

Inc.

Colors of Benetton;

PLAID PANT

ERS

"GOLFERS"

Terry Rogers;

50

—Steven



BRIM HAT WITH SILK FLOW-

ANTIQUE

GOLD CHARM BRACELET

— Lola

43

BLACK PATENT MID-HEEL

PUMPS — Salvatore Ferragamo

PATENT APPLE-GREEN VINYL BAG D&G Dolce & Gabbana; PEARL NECKLACE Carolee; EARRINGS Ciner; pink JACKET Oscar de la Renta; black dress Barneys New York; BLACK SATIN BAG Kleinberg Sherrill; BLACK



52





POLKA-DOT SCARVES — The

JJ

CREPE JACKET DKNY; BLACK COTTON

— Levi's

Womenswear; SILVER NECKLACE Fragments; DRIVING

46-47

GRAY GLEN PLAID DRESS — Anne Klein II; GRAY GLEN PLAID

COAT—Anne

Klein



HIGH HEELS Manolo Blahnik; SHOULDER BAG

54

II;

— Barry

JACKET AND PANTS



5ft

Giorgio Armani; SILK

BLOUSE

49 LEFT: SILK SKIRT

OPEN-FRONT BLOUSE — Eileen Fisher; SUEDE CAMEL OPEN-TOE HEELS — Celine; PEWTER CLUTCH WITH

BEADING—Judith

MULTI-STRAND PEARL

CHOKER



Lisa Marinucci at

Fragments RIGHT: BUTTER SILK EMPIRE-WAIST

—Ann Taylor; BEIGE PUMPS —Noriko Maeda; SATIN SHOULDER BAG — DRESS

Bottega Veneta; G o L D

CUFF

-

MEsH

—Anne Klein; WIDE-

WHITE SHIRT



TUNG HIP-HUGGER clamdiggers — Cynthia

— Polo/Ralph

LEFT: WHITE

—Agnes

COTTON BLACK

B.;

BALLET FLATS

B.;



Chan 6S

69

BACKPACK — Ralph

KHAKI LAVENDER ULTRASUEDE BAG Kate Spade; PATENT LEATHER LOAFERS Charles David

J. Crew;



70

Veneta;

BLACK KNIT TOP AND PANTS Eileen Fisher; GOLD



earrings —Janice

RIGHT: RUFFLED LAVENDER SILK CREPE WRAP BLOUSE Anne Klein II; SLATE-PURPLE SILK WIDE-LEG DRAWSTRING PANTS A Line Anne Klein; SILVER Girardi at Fragments





THONGS — Gucci



1,1

LEFT: GOLD DRESS AND REEFER COAT Michael Kors;





OXFORDS — DKNY

.eof frev

AND SATIN HANDBAG AND PUMPS — Bottega





(

VELVET

Ralph Lauren; SILVER

RIGHT: LIGHT-BLUE RAYON CARDIGAN AND MATCHING

SLEEVELESS BLACK POLYESTER DRESS MaxMara; Beetle

rings Erica Courtney; BLACK POLISHED-LEATHER BELT WITH SILVER BUCKLE Robert Lee Morris;



GOWN —



Lauren;

SILVER LINK BRACELET

Apropo

MANNEQUIN—



— PANTS —

at

CORAL TAFFETA Amsale





MATTE

SQUARE PENDANT CHOKER Fragments; BEADED METALLIC PURSE — Ann

— Morgan & Clyde;



— Enzo

Angiolini; SILVER



LEFT: BLAZER Calvin Klein; POLYESTER T-SHIRT

sunglasses — BLACK LEATHER

Calvin Klein;

BLACK POLISHED-LEATHER BELT WITH SILVER BUCKLE Ralph Lauren; BLACK PATENT LEATHER SANDALS—J Crew RIGHT: WHITE COTTON SHIRT Agnes B.; BLACK WOOL PANTS Agnes B.; TURQUOISE WOOL TURTLENECK SportMax by MaxMara; BLACK SUNGLASSES Optical Affairs; BLACK POLISHED-LEATHER



CAMISOLE Rampage; BLACK AND WHITE POLKADOT DRAWSTRING





PINK WOOL SUIT Chanel; ALLIGATOR CLUTCH

Tahari; Leiber;

Chanel;

BEAD NECKLACE Leekan: STRAW BAG WITH CHER-

— GIRO —



JACKET AND FLATS T-SHIRT— Levi's Womenswear: KHAKI PANTS Dockers for Women RIGHT: PERIWINKLE CASHMERE MOCK TURTLENECK M-A-G: BLACK SILK SHAN-

61 LEFT:

STRAW BOATER — Helen Kaminski; CINNABAR-RED



57





RIES



Am tin

TAFFETA PANTS Searle; IRIDESCENT TAFFETA JACKET WITH PYTHON TRIM Searle; POLISHED STRETCH HALTER Searle; TAN LEATHER HANDBAG Bindva

SHIRT





— Neiman Marcus;

WOOL PANTS —Agnes

STRAND LARGE PEARL NECKLACE —-Jay Strongwater; watch Carrier

AND



JEANS Levi Strauss & Co.: SUEDE THONGS DKNY; LEOPARD-PRINT SCARF Echo; TORTOISESHELL AND GOLD BRACELETS Ben

Rowley;

Kleinberg Sherrill; TRIPLE-

— Giorgio Armani





PEARLS



Lauren 63

—Carolina Herrera; SIL-

Kieselstein-

Cord 48

62

Sherrill

55

CHARTREUSE CASHMERE SWEATER SET Hermes;





Ben Amun; SILVER

66











VER LEATHER OPEN-TOE HEELS Freelance; SILVER LEATHER CLUTCH Kleinberg



Kate Spade; SILVER CUFFS

EARRINGS

61

LAVENDER SILK CREPE SUIT

MINT AND NAVY SHORTSLEEVED TWINSET Chanel

Veneta

OPEN-TOE SANDALS — Kenneth Cole; HEART-SHAPED LAVENDER PENDANT — Kazuko

SHOES—J. P. Tods

65



Spade;





PANTSUIT Ralph by Ralph Lauren: SHEER BLUE CAMISOLE Giorgio Armani; BLUE SEQUINED TOP Searle; STRAPPY SANDALS



GRAY DRESS WITH SPAGHETTI STRAPS AND MATCHING JACKET— Jill Stuart; BLACK BAG WITH PURPLE AND YELLOW POPPY FLOWER TRIM — Kate



WOOL

Veneta

OPAL M & J Savitt; SILVER CHAIN-LINK BELT Bottega

CARDIGAN—TSE

YELLOW SILK SHANTUNG DRAWSTRING EVENING POUCH — Kate Spade; BLUE



SILK

SILVER RING WITH LARGE

YELLOW CASHMERE

Versace;

Collection

STRAW HAT WITH FLOWERS — Lola

CLUTCH

— —

Fragments; LIGHT-BLUE SLEEVELESS DRESS

LEATHER LOAFERS WITH BLACK TASSEL Bottega

Stephen Dweck; TAN PATENT

Lauren

Vanessa Noel: SILVER

FLOWER-PRINT SILK DRESS—J. Crew; WHITE LACE-UP SANDALS Manolo Blahnik: NECKLACE



LOAFERS— Ralph

GOLD NECKLACE WITH LARGE JEWELED DROP —



Lazaro;

of Jeff Stone

T-SHIRT

ORANGE AND PINK WOVEN

— Noriko Maeda; GOLD BLISTER PEARL PIN —



45

60

DRESS

SATIN SHOES Bottega Veneta; SATIN PUMP, SCARF, PEARL NECKLACE. BEADS. BRACELET Private collection

Honey

58-59

— —

— —

44

—Chanel; SILVER

OPEN-TOE STILETTO SANDALS Stuart Weitzman; CANVAS SNEAKERS Gap; BLACK CAP-TOE FLATS Bruno Magli





LAVENDER LEATHER BALLET FLATS



CHARM BRACELET AND



DiGeronimo 51

MINISKIRT Rampage: SILVER NECKLACE WITH SQUARE LINKS Nine West; FLAT BLACK LEATHER

11

LEFT: GOLD BEADED

AND

WOVEN DRESS — Carmen Marc Yalvo; GREEN ACCORDION wrap fane



GOLD STACKED

Steinberg;

HEELS



SQUARE HANDBAG —

85

BEADED DRESS Katherine Hamnett; NECKLACE

BLACK POLYESTER jacket Burberrys; yellow RUBBER BOOT — Gates Bool Company; black leather



BOOT — Chanel

shorts — Crew

BROWN/GRAY /WHITE-

Lauren;

hoop earrings —

STRIPED LYCRA POLO

Zima

Fragments;

Trifari;

collection of Lisa

rod's/



MULES DKNY; LIME-GREEN AND WHITE SNEAKERS — cK MULTI-COLORED WOVEN

pants-

bag — Iik.i.ii

BROWN

STRAW



hat Helen Raminski; sunglasses Gap; black dress Barneys New York; BLACK PATENT BAG Ralph Lauren; gold cuff Salvatore Ferragamo; black AND WHITE POLKA-DOT

89

i

BAMBOO -PR

I

NT SILK

SILK

khaki cotton



PEARL CIGARETTE CASE Bottega veneta;

"BABY

GOLD necklace — Aimm

— Assoulin; EARRINGS — Morgenthal Frederics;

BAG





cotton and PANTS— Seaile. GOLD

SEAFOAM-GREEN PANTS WITH BEADING — 1

\piess;

\niie Klein

II



SHEER DRESS WITH SLIP alvin Klein; GOLD NECKLACE WITH YELLOW BERYL (

pendant — Elizabeth Locke; bag — Bottega Veneta; SlINGBACK PUMPS — Chanel

I

FLORAL BLOUSE— \n Smiths; white pants — I

Ralph Lauren; blue

90

turquoise

BLUE straw HAT

RINGS



— Skagen at Steven Alan; sunglasses — all items oi

—Webei

grill

97

APRON —

-

(

ln<

|av

Lane

(.nils

— Private collection

Mil HANDBAG WITH

SIL-



VER HANDLE Apiopo;GOLD HAIRPIN WITH BLUE BUTTERFLY Collette Malouf;

BLUE STRAW HAT

— Patricia

Underwood; square

TURQUOISE EARRINGS

106

TOP

— Adrienne Landau — HAT — Matsuda; OAT-

LEFT: GLOVES

llei ines;

MEAL CASHMERE TURTLENECK — Malo: BROWN SUEDE JODHPUR BOOTS Manolo Blahnik TOP MIDDLE: GARMINT BAG Private collection of Jeff Stone

TOP

RICHT: BARN JACKET—J. lew MIDDLE LEFT: ORANGE SUEDE BACKPACK (

FAUX SNAKESKIN OPEN-



Laurel Elder

GOLD BEADED ORGANZA



Simple



Oaklj 91

— Kenneth

w

Patricia

Underwood; WATCH

IDI

SCARF



SUEDE THONGS Celine; PEWTER AND PEARL EAR-

G SHOCK

agmenta

nylon

BAG— Piada LAVENDER



WATCH — Casio NECKLACE —

12

SUNGLASSES—

PEARL DETAIL — Flagmellls; WHITE COTTON T-SHIRT

DP

al

|

SHOES— Manolo



avendai

(

F

bracelet [ay Strongwater; SNAKE BRACELETS Roxannc

suede

EIGHT-STRAND PEARL

AND GOLD CRUSHED VELVET BAG — Fendi RICH PINK SATIN

1



DweduTAUM

CHOKER WITH SILVER AND

I'

VELVET

lit

I

VER FLOWER CUFF

<

Olaj

-I

at Stall



Manolo Blahnik RIGHT: -RING LIZARD" CLUTCH WITH RHINESTONE CLASP — [udith l.eiber; SIL-

TANK— MaxM.ua STRAPPY LEATHER F I AT S— Kl eelaiu ;

STRAW HAT —

|

UNLINED BEIGE TROPICALWEIGHT WOOL JACKET Donna Ku an. BEIGE RAYON PANTS — Clements Ribeiro at Bergdorf Goodman; copper

STRAPS — Ralph Lauren;

SILK KNIT SLEEVELESS

rCW

t



with

GOLD LIZARD MULES —

kcceatorie*

1/

|

t

SILK SCARF

1

SILVER DISK

s

SILK

THONGS — Siuaii Wen/man;

1

\.<< ssou,

i;

GOLD EARRINGS — Kennelh |a\ anc. FLAT HONEY THONGS WITH CROCODILE

Stephen

11)1 GOLD-HAMMERED cuff— M Stewart al D

IT—Sarah

imlio I'm,

Emilio Pucci; pearl

\ WoOtlOll

StllllllS

M

cardigan- SI gold cuff —

laibornei

I

216 Chic Simple



NECKLACE AND BRACELETS — n \nillli Kit LIME-GREEN COTTON HALTER TOP — lew; KHAKI FLAT-FRONT LONG shorts — Crew Collection] ISHBOWL PRINT CHIFFON SCARF El ho; MOTHER-OFI

PALE-YELLOW COTTON DRESS — Mill-Mill; T-STRAP

Fragments;

aihmere;

SUEDE THONGS

Collet lion;

Blahnik;

SI

i

SAFARI JACKET—



Ben

Mil (

FLORAL-PRINT BIKINI Adiieiuu- Vittadini; pink COTTON-BLEND DRESS

BEIGE

"si

HALTER DRESS



82-33

I

I

Finillo Pucci;

But Imian; SILVER

Chanel

BATHING SUIT — Adlicnnc Vittadini; fuchsia bikini WITH LIGHT-PINK BORDER — Ti/iano

aura I'rbinati



BANGLES — M\| Savitt) ANIMAL-PRINT LOAFERS —

Cashmere;



I

Crew;

|



— —

Ralph

PANTS— Seal le; SUNGLASSES— Dana

(

BLUE SILK BUTTON-

ITT

SHANTUNG CAPRI PANTS

I

Calvin Klein

80-81

THIII SQUARE COL-

LAPSIBLE LEATHER



Ipropo;

|

P,

|

l>\

1



ragments

DOWN—

amen; SILVER HOOPS Vgatha; red suede thongs ( elinej black PATENT BAG— ( chile RICH) BLACK COTTON T-SHIRT— Saks Fifth Venue; WHITE COTTON-SILK BLEND 1

BAGS — l>k\V SUNGLASSES AND chain — Bottega veneta KU.I1 ASYMMETRICAL BATHING SUIT — .ihul Klein; BEIGE LINEN DRAWSTRING

Werthheimer; white denim JEANS Cap; BAG Nine West; GOLD OPEN TOE

79



""

Vuk.-WHITE PIQUE

PALE-YELLOW PATENT

LEATHER LOAFERS—

Carolee; Erwin Pearl; Private



u;

i.

(

Mil NAVY AND WHITE

PANTS — Ralph

HIGH-

— Manolo

Blahnik; GOLD CUFF BRACELET AND NECKLACE

Softwares

COTTON STRIPED SAILOR

Collection;

COTTON SUNDRESS — Ralph at

HEEL SANDALS

1

AND

Kuan;

CELADON SCARF — DKNY;

BROWN ALLIGATOR

sweater — Barneys New

1111 KHAKI JACKET

DARK BROWN KNIT

— Donna

DRESS

leu

I

|

— Barbara Kramer

Rll.lll

NaVVJ

SANDALS—

ducks — Ad Hot

•"

Blahnik

|

78

BAG— Did

STRAW LILAC 93

SABRINA-HEEL

MULE Manolo Blahnik; FLAT LAVENDER MULE— Manolo

86

dress

nelte;

l

SUNGLASSES — Silhouette;



SUNGLASSES— Al



strappy san-



86-87 BEIGE

Weitzman; green and blue EMBROIDERED DAISY

PALE-GREEN MAILLOT—). (icu; LILAC PAREO Klesal Bergdoi Goodman; green



TOS

7?

\nnaStii;

dals Si gel son Morrison; PINK TOTE Kate Spade;

Fragments; SILVER STILET-

WITH GOLD EDGE—Jay Strongwatei pale-green ;

FLORAL DRESS — b\ Daryl K;



— Stuart Weitzman 72 UMBRELLA — Shanghai Tang

iole

(

CORDUROY JACKET — K-IS'I

Adrienne Vittadini RIGHT:





sandals

Louis Vuitton;

Kenneth

Calvin Klein;





I

TOE SLIDES Ralph Lauren; LIME-GREEN LEATHER

STRAPPY SANDALS WITH SILVER BUCKLE Stuart



WITH BAMBOO HANDLE AND SILK SCARF Gucci MIDDLE RIGHT: SILVER PEN Dunhill: BLACK PEN







AGENDA — Coach

Uni-ball;



BOOTS — Bruno 107

TOP

LEFT:

Magli

GOLD COLLAR



— Gap

GLOVES— Naomi

KNIT

LEFT: GRAY GLEN PLAID DRESS AND JACKET Ralph

118

— Ralph by Ralph Lauren; BAG — Private

collec-

120

— Banana Republic; SOCKS — Ralph

STERLING CLUTCH



ASSORTED MAKEUP—Aveda, Kiehl's, Origins, Prescriptives,

Studio Gear

BROWN WOOL DOT



SNAKESKIN MULES — Marc BLACK LEATHER PUMPS — Manolo Blahnik

CUFF— Ben Amun;

GOLD

BLACK



PRINT LOAFERS

—Stubbs &

Wootton; LEATHER

HANDBAG — Bottega Veneta;

WATCH— Ecclissi

RIGHT:

JACKET

NECK



— cK

MARKET BAG — CASHMERE TURTLE-

— TSE: JEANS — Levi

Strauss 133

&

Co.

LEFT: RED CASHMERE SWEATER SET TSE Cashmere; GRAY FLANNEL



TROUSERS— Polo

Ralph

— CIRO: GRAY FLANNEL SHOES — Chanel; BELT — Gucci Lauren: PEARLS

RIGHT: MICROFIBER JACKWITH VELVET COLLAR Hermes; SCARF Echo: WOOL BLAZER Hermes; BLACK CASHMERE



ET



Crew;



WOOL PANTS — PYTHON



SWEATER Michael Kors; BLACK TROUSERS Hermes: BLACK LOAFERS Crew: PLAID KNEE SOCKS Ralph

— Carolina Herrera





129

LEATHER OXFORDS Ghlirka:

WOOL

Carolina Herrera;

AND

Co.;

Calvin Klein.

GRAY VELVET JACK-

TURTLENECK—J.

CARDIGAN — Bill Blass; CHARCOAL-GRAY WOOL

Armani; VELVET ANIMAL-

132



CAMISOLE AND

&



— Ralph bv Ralph Lauren;

BLACK

II:

Strauss



Veneta 128

—Anne Klein

BLACK ANTIQUE-CALF LOAFERS Adrienne Vittadini: TROUSER SOCKS Timex J. Crew: WATCH

Bottega Veneta; GREEN ULTRASUEDE TOTE Bottega

LEFT: TAUPE SILK KNIT

MATCHING PANTS — Giorgio

CROCODILE SLINGBACKS Manolo Blahnik; BAG DKNV; NECKLACE Sarah Cavendar



—Neiman

PINSTRIPE SUIT JACKET

SHIRT

JEANS— Levi

WATCH —Time Will Tell; GRAY JERSEY AND SUEDE gloves — Bottega Veneta; BROWN SUEDE BOOTS —

Jacobs;

121



HAM BUTTON-DOWN

— Ralph bv Ralph

ANTIQUE LONGINES

Marcus Collection; GRAY

BRACELET Sarah Cavendar for DP. Accessories; WATCH Timex

for D.P. Accessories;

ET

— Hermes: MOCK —



— Chanel

GRAY SLEEVELESS MOCK TURTLENECK AND MATCH-

BELT

CROCODILE LOAFERS Adrienne Vittadini RIGHT: BLACK CREPE BLAZER Anne Klein II; SWEATER VEST Anne Klein II: GING-



Lauren:

TANK — Giorgio Armani;

MESH

BLACK LEATHER GLOVES

AND

PLUM KNIT TANK AND V-NECK CARDIGAN SET Adrienne Vittadini; BLACK VELVET WITH GOLDENBRONZE LOWLIGHTS KNEELENGTH SKIRT AND COAT

ING PANTS



Frederics; BELT



GRAY LIGHTWEIGHT WOOL SUIT Marc Jacobs; BEADED SLEEVELESS BLOUSE Pamela Dennis; PEWTER MESH SLEEVELESS



BROWN

SHOULDER TOTE — Coach

ORGANZA

[.

Bergdorf Goodman:

WATCH — Georg Jensen;

VINTAGE CASHMERE SWEATER WITH PEARL BEADING Private collection of Kim Johnson Gross; LOOSELY CROCHETED

SATIN HEELS



BURGUNDY CASHMERE SHAWL —

BROWN NYLON BAG — Kate Spade; BROWN 127

LAPEL PIN

II;

Elizabeth Locke;

Searle;



May Kim; NAVY DRIVING MOCCASINS— P. Tod's; SCARF— Echo; SUNGLASSES Morgenthal tion of



Dolce



Dior;

Louis Vuitton 119

SHIRT

HEIRLOOM BAG — Gucci;

BAG — Hermes; LEATHER SHOULDER TOTE —



Jennifer George;

126

KELLY

RIGHT: GRAY GLEN PLAID PANTSUIT Ralph by Ralph Lauren; LAVENDER COTTON



CARDIGAN — DKNY



HANDBAG — Christian

Strongwater

Klein

LEOPARD-PRINT

— Stubbs & Wootton



"PRINCESS Dl" QUILTED



LEFT:

BROWN

HANDBAG — Bottega Veneta

Manolo Blahnik; GOLD BRACELET Elizabeth Locke;

DRESS AND JACKET

125

BEADED NECKLACE Elizabeth Locke; BEADED

BAG

SWEATER— D&G

131

PUMP — Manolo

& Gabbana: SLIM CASHMERE PANT — TSE; BROWN NYLON BAG — Kate Spade

DRESS, GOLD MESH BRACELET, BROWN SATIN PUMPS Chanel; CITRINE

Misle;

Banana Republic; PUMPS

116

TALL



by Ralph Lauren;

124

— Donna

Karan

KNIT ANIMAL-PRINT

Blahnik;

— Ralph by Ralph

BLACK BLAZER

Republic

LEFT: BLACK CREPE SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET AND PANTS Anne Klein II; WHITE COTTON NOTCHEDCOLLAR BLOUSE Anne

SLIPPER





115

DOUBLE-BREASTED

SUEDE BOOT Kenneth Cole RIGHT: TWEED CHECK

WATCH —Timex

Lauren; SILVER

STILETTO

130



BAG — Chanel; ANTIQUE HAMILTON WATCH — Time

— Bottega Veneta;

NECKLACE—Jay

Spiga

122-23

LEOPARD-PRINT

Blahnik;

HANDBAG — Banana

Blahnik

WOVEN HANDBAG —Via

Will Tell;

GATOR FLATS — Manolo







Kors by Michael Kors; ALLI-



SLEEVED BLOUSE Banana Republic; QUILTED HAND-

SHOULDER BAG Ralph Lauren; SUNGLASSES —

Bill Blass;

BROWN LEATHER WALLET Via Spiga; BROWN LEATHER PUMPS Manolo

HEELS

Lauren; BEIGE SHORT-





BLACK SILK STILETTO SLINGBACKS Stuart Weitzman; BLACK CALF

DRESS



Vittadini;

BROWN

WOOL HERRINGBONE COAT

Isaac Mizrahi; LEATHER JACKET MLC; LEATHER DRIVING SHOES—J. P. Tod's;

113

METALLIC

117 LEFT:

SWEATER Isaac by Isaac Mizrahi; TWEED PANTS —

HAT

DRESS— Diane Von

DROP — Stephen Dweck;

—Vera Wang; PALEGREEN GOWN — Vera Wang 109 GREEN PEACOAT — Michael

Adrienne

PANTS— Holland & Holland; MERINO WOOL SWEATER —

SEQUINED SKIRT



DRESS

110-11

JACKET AND MATCHING

AND CARDIGAN, GRAY

WITH ANKLE STRAPS Walter Steiger; GOLD CHAIN NECKLACE WITH CHARM



NECK SWEATER

TAUPE SILK KNIT CAMISOLE

Furstenberg;

NECKLACE Carlo Weingrill CENTER: WOOL SUIT—J. Crew; NECKLACE Erwin Pearl TOP RIGHT: BLACK

Kors;MULTI-STRIPE TURTLE-

BRACELETS Fragments; SUNGLASSES Morgenthal Frederics RIGHT: SILK WRAP



BOTTOM MIDDLE: ANKLE

LEFT: MULTICOLORED

WOOL SWEATER — Old Navy; BROWN LEATHER PANTS — Ralph Lauren; BROWN LEATHER BOOTS—Joan and

-

1



Lauren for Hot Sox 13-1-35

LEFT TO RIGHT: BALLET slipper

— Bottega veneta;

David RIGHT: BEIGE SUEDE

houldlVW

I

WHITE HIGH V-NECK TSHIRT Donna K.u.in Essentials; RED NYLON TOTE bag— Rati Spade; sunglasses Optical Allans: PATENT LEATHER LOAFERS Hermes

PATENT LEATHER LOAFER —J. Crew; BROWN LEATHER

OXFORD—J.M. Weslon; BROWN SUEDE JODHPUR BOOT— J.M. SPLIT-TOED



— Schott;

LEFT: PEACOAT



turtleneck Tlie Limited; gloves Coach; boots — Bruno Magli; LEGGINGS The Limited; BACKPACK — Takashimaya RIGHT: black TURTLENECK SWEATER Maria di Ripabianca; black LEATHER JACKET— MIC; SUNGLASSES \<l lie line Vittadini; GRAY WOOL pants Chanel; brown LEATHER BAG — Ralph Lauren; BELT — DKNY;



140



Kieselstein-Cord:

III

137

socks —

LEFT: BEIGE

I

[ol

III

145



I

;



Kieselstein-Cord;

black sandals—Manolo

BLACK COTTON-LYCRA pants Gap



139

LEFT; striped knit boatneck PULLOVER Adllennc



— —

cardigan Chic Simple; BEIGE MULES DKNY; SILVER BANGLES — Monel; WHITE COTTON BUT-

Vittadini;

TON-DOWN—

j.

Crew;

CORNFLOWER-BLUE

— Ralph Lauren; OPEN BANGLE SILVER WATCH —

JACKET

Georgjensen RIGHT: black SLINGBACKS Adrienne



Vittadini;

BELT

218 ChicSimple

black leather

— Hermes; BLACK

ED ZIP

Bai rel

QUILT-

JACKET— DKNY;

1

\r

SWEATER— Ralph .mien WOOL PANTS —

I

Donna

Karen;

PEARL NECK-

— Kenneth

LACE

[ay

BLACK SATIN BAG

I

ane;



Kleinberg Shei

134

Bennis Wai ren

bag — Kenneth

Bai

dwai

1

I

III

155

1

1

<

ole

BLACK

Fl

TURTLENECK— M PALAZZO PANTS — Giorgio \iniani RIGH CRYSTAL BEADED I

BLACK WOOL-CASHMERE

17

SHIRT JACKET

LEFT; REVERSIBLE MINK coat ( )s( .u de la Renta



\i

i

156

i;



(

itorgio

I

Bottega Veneta; leather

MATTE GOLD LAME LETTO PUMPS

handbag — [udith Leibei BROWN LEATHER GLOVES —

MM

— Sin. ul

COAT— Bdl

GOLD PANTSUIT — Pamela

Henna

BLACK



VISCOSE DRESS Mil hael Kors; OSTRICH CLUTCH [udith Leibei; BLACK VELVET Manolo Blahnik; T- ST RAPS VENETIAN GLASS INTAGLIO





AND CARNELIAN BROOCH, GOLD AND CITRINE RING, GOLD AND SAPPHIRE BANGLE

— Elizabeth

Locke

RIG III: TAFFETA

|.i\

AND FUCHSIA DUCHESS SATIN SKIRT

— Oscar de

silver link

Renta

lane; VELVET

STRAPPY

RHINESTONE RING — Apropo

RIGHT: SILVER VELVET AND

WITH FAUX BEAVER COLLAR Bogner;

LACE FLOOR-LENGTH gown Geofrre] Beene

SNOWFLAKE MITTENS—J.

PLATINUM PAVE DIAMOND

Motorola;

la



160

BLACK VELVET

PUMPS — Target: GOLD PEARLIZED STONE AND

LEFT: RED SUIT

n.

CASHMERE CARDIGAN — Pamela Dennis; DARK GRAY PEARL CHOKER — Kenneth

Dennis /59

aim

BLACK VELVET DRESS — Gap;

VELVET DRESS WITH

boa trim — Carolina

1

Lauren; fur-

CHOKER WITH PEARL drop — Fragments RIGHT:

Wen/man \5t

— Ralph

BAG—Gap;

STI-

BOOTS — Ralph allien RIGHT: PANNE VELVET Blass;

straps

trimmed COAT — Ralph

BLACK EVENING PUMPS — Noiiko M.ied.l

IJ7

I

I

main

\i

SLIP

Gii.l

II BLACK ACETATE JUMPER WITH SPAGHETTI

s

brown

by Mil hael Kors;

— GiOTglO

GRAY CHIFFON

PANTS —

Poi

black crewneck SWEATER (.in BLACK KNIT PANTS Koi Alexandre;

main:

51



I

COAT— Seal le

I



Clergerie;

BLACK VELVET EVENING

ds;

SET

DRESS — B( BC BEADED EVENING BAG — Vanessa RHINESTONE CHOKER Fragments; strappy stiletto sandals — Stuart Weitzman RIGHT: gray COTTON SHAKER SWEATER — /man. GRAY PALAZZO PANTS Zoran

Ml

\l.i\

BLACK STRETCH

I

CASHMERE

SKIRT— DKNY; PEARLS— GIRO

COLLAR— |ohn

boots — Roben

I

ashmcic;

(

I



146

SWEATER

STONE-ENCRUSTED CLUTCH — [udith elbei: BLACK SILK HEELS — Silvan

ballet |.n

Lane RIGH

BLACK VELVET DRESS — Cap pearls — Kenneth |a) ane; RED VELVET COAT WITH LEATHER

rill;

— Bottega Veneta; earrings — Kenneth slippers

Blatl

BLACK SILK TUXEDO DRESS — Ralph .mien, BLACK AND SILVER



Blahnik 138



eibei

III

I

RUST SHEARLING COAT AND SLIP DRESS — Seal If

I

I

j

SILVER COCKTAIL

BLACK CLUTCH— Bollejj. Veneta; black gloves ownes; lipstick—* hanel

— —

i

rew

1



— Bai

(

BROOCH — Monel RHINE-

nylon tote — I

agle's

I

BEARING SENSOR WATCH aiio BOl COM LEF1 fur NAT—Kaiteri BOl IX)M RIGH CZ AND SILVER EARRING — Ralph allien

1

DKNY; SHOES—DKNY; gold BRACELETS Chanel RIG] BLACK VISCOSE PULLOVER llel llles; BLACK Anne Klein CREPE PANTS Banana II; BLACK BAG Republic SILVER CUFF BRACELET Ben Annul; LEATHER AND SILVER NECKLACE

Roth;

rew;

(

1

CHRISTMAS SWEATER —

(

|

glass — Crate &

Ralph



ING — [udith 162

MIT-

walkietalkie — Motorola; black

TENS—I

SHAKER— Pedum; MARTINI

SKIRT

MINAUDIERE WITH BEAD-

I

— Moijjrnth.il

Frederics;

In istian

<

SNOWFLAKE

BognCI

Goodman; sun-

eibei: SIL-

1

I

Ralph by Ralph Lauren; sun-

glasses

l

\ipels

VER KITTY-CAT

RED VELVET

I



.u

i

buck jumpsuit — Geoffre)

//

II

I



BOOT —

rOPl

Bartletl lOP RIGH SKI SUIT WITH FAUX BEAVER COLLAR

Beene

Lauren; beige suede coat

AND MATCHING

151

|.

Sox

bj

mis;

&

leel

(

RHINESTONE AND GOLD

CLUTCH—Judith

llergerie

j

PINSTRIPE PANTS Anne Klein II: BLACK LEATHER

COTTON

crewneck — Ralph

gdoi

(

i

WATCH — \.in 161

pants—John

glasses —



Crew;

Robei

<

i

THIN BANDED EVENING

I

1

APPLE-GREEN PULLOVER — Hermes; belt — Gu< r..

I

(

i

lei

I

I

I

ON RED GROSGRAIN BAND — Van led & \i pels; GOLD AND PAVE DIAMOND

BOTTOM

\iisriolini

CHRISTMAS sweater — Eagle's Eye BOTii )M MIDD1 boots —

Hermes



watch — Timex; shoes—

ln/o

BELTS—Barr)

Kieselstein-Cord; Bai

shoes — earrings— Paloma;Cl M&J Savin; square clutch —

gown — Halston;



FROM TOP;

EVENING WATCH WITH RUBY CABOCHON DETAIL

TOP RIGHT: black beadeo

1

Weston 136

150



166

SKI SUIT



Crew; WALKIE-TALKIE



BLACK BEARING

— Casio FUCHSIA SKI JACKET — Polo Sport; SUNGLASSES — SENSOR WATCH

167

SHOES— Manolo

COAT— Ralph

WATCH — Casio TAUPE COAT WITH FAUX FUR COLLAR MaxMara;GRAY WOOL TURTLENECK Ralph Lauren Jeans; GRAY FLANNEL BOOT-CUT PANTS Express; BLACK SATIN BACKPACK

EVENING



LACE

Benetton; SUEDE J.

P.

Tod's;

BOOTS —

TORTOISESHELL



Sisley by

173

174

Colors of Benetton; SILVER

MINK-TRIMMED HOOD — TSE Cashmere; PANTS— TSE

175

BROWN WOVEN

— Naomi BOOTS —

LEATHER GLOVES

ANKLE

178

TAUPE CABLE-KNIT CARDIGAN WITH FUR COLLAR



Blumarine

180

— Mis

It

at

tion of Lisa

Steinberg

Lauren;

YELLOW AND

LEFT:

NAVY RAYON

SHIRT

— Anne Klein

II;

NAVY



FLOWERED



scarf Old Navy; silver BRACELETS AND E A R R N G S Alejandro Toussier



at D.P.

BLACK camisole



cK Cabin

185

Accessories;

Mercier;

LOAFERS—

SATIN HEELS

(.

Marc Jacobs

Michael Kors; FLAT



Bergdorf

Celine

Goodman; ROSEBUD TOTE AND MATCHING MULES



186







Adrienne Vittadini I'll!

LEFT: BLACK LEATHER

LFFr: BEADED EVENING

GOWN —Searle



GOLD





brown

PATENT LEATHER THONGS

NAVY PINSTRIPE



Spade



LEFT:

COAT-DRESS Michael Kors: BEAD NECKLACE Elizabeth Locke; BLACK PUMPS Manolo Blahnik RIGHT: BABY-BLUE KNIT JACKET Noriko Maeda; BLACK KNIT DRESS Michael Kors: PEARL NECKLACE Ben Amun: BLACK PATENT LEATHER SLINGBACK PUMPS





M. Weston

at

189

Morris;

RIGHT: TAFFETA NAVY TOP Michael Kors; WHITE SILK CAMISOLE Giorgio Armani: SILK PANTS

&.-,



Chanel

— Chanel:

BROWN NYLON HANDBAG — Kate

— Gap;

RIGHT: WHITE DRESS



AND MATCHING SKIRT — Sialic Blatt; PLUM TANK ANO V-NECK CARDIGAN SET —



watch — Baume

KHAKIS



EARRINGS Fragments; ANKLE-STRAP PUMPS

ET

LIGHT-BLUE CASH-

Burberrys;



— Oroblu

Vittadini;



Fragments:

Halpern Signature Shoes

LEFT: BLACK VELVET JACK-

Adrienne

at

RIGHT: BLACK KNIT DRESS Chanel: GOLD SQUARE BRACELETS, GOLD

SILVER

BLACK HOISERY

— Christian Lacroix; EARRINGS — Erwin MERE SWEATER SET

Klein;

CHOKER — Robert Lee

LEFT: SCARF Pearl;

SATIN HEELS

BRACELET

HANDBAG — Bindva: SANDALS— Joan & David

Werthheimer

Svisan Lazar;





SILK

I

square



PINSTRIPE PANTS Anne Klein II; WHITE HALTER BODYSUIT Donna in





181

WOOL

ii.

SILK SCARF

Fragments;

— Moschino

Colette Malouf:



DKNY; SILVER CHOKER BLACK LEATHER BAG Patrick Cox; BLACK SLIDES Patrick Cox

MESH COVER-UP — D&G Dolce & Gabbana; NAVYBLUE TANK WITH LACE

DRESS—A.B.S.; HAIRPIN —

RIGHT: EVENING COAT WITH FUR TRIM D&G Dolce & Gabbana; BLACK WRAP JERSEY DRESS —

at



//'/WHITE LONG-SLEEVED

GRAY BAG — DeVecchi; black pumps — Bottega

Richard Minadeo

— Carmen

cK Calvin Klein RIGHT: BLUE LEATHER SUIT Ralph

Fragments

SHOULDER CROCHETED

dress

Marc Valvo;

— Calvin Klein

LEFT: BLACK OFF-THE-

Donna Karan; GRAY WOOL SUIT Agnes B.; STERLING SILVER BRACELET Agatha;

STOCKINGS— DKNY; EARRINGS— Private collec-

GOLD HANDBAG —Adrienne Vittadini; gold sandals —

SMOKY CRYSTALS —



black leather

Mizrahi;

BAG WITH SILVER

Veneta:

Noriko Maeda;

— Fragments; SILVER

AND turtleneck — Isaac

BUCKLE

WOVEN BEADED

Fragments;

CHOKER WITH PEARLS AND

SANDALS — Stuart Weitzman RIGHT: TWEED SKIRT SUIT

188

LEFT:

Calvin Klein; CITRINE

k.

collection of

Metropolitan Design;

SILVER STILETTO



AND

YELLOW SATIN DRESS— M-A-G; CITRUS-



—Vanessa Noel

LEFT: WHITE BLOUSE

at

LEFT:

Gill at



Stone

BROWN

trim

New

Barneys

Waterman; INK

CRUSHED-VELVET ORANGE clutch [ndustria; tank RING

184

Luu





HEELS

— Chan

STONE DOUBLE-STRANDED NECKLACE Fragments: PINK BEADED HANDBAG Nina

M-A-G; BLACK SATIN BAG WITH COLLAPSIBLE SILVER HANDLE Fendi; SATIN

— Parker, Mont

WRAP —Jane



187



GREEN ACCORDION

B; RED

— Cynthia Steffe; —

171

STATIONERY

|(

Crespi Manani;

at

GOWN —Agnes

SILK

SHIRT

Hope Greenberg

STAMP — Private

Will Tell 169

collection of

Blanc,

NECKLACE

— — Ben Amun; GLOVES — Coach; BAG — Polo Ralph Lauren; BLACK FLATS — Cole Haan RIGHT: PANTSUIT —

— Orlane; ATOMIZER — Muji; COMPACT — Private

PENS



BAG — Kenneth Cole; SHOES — Kenneth Cole:

CUFF

— Barneys

— Me

Amun LEFT: DOUBLE-BREASTED SUIT Ralph Lauren;



DRESS WITH SHEER OVERLAY Chanel: RED EVENING



LIPSTICK

York;

SHOULDER CASHMERE — Malo; NECKLACE

Fragments

SHIRT Ralph Lauren; B RAc E LETS Fragments;

and

JEANS ONE-

TOP



V-NECK

B.;

Co.;

and Ro RIGHT: PRINTED

BLACK VISCOSE HALTER TOP Ralph Lauren SILK

&

NECKLACE Fragments; SILVER STILETTOS— Stuart Weitzman RIGHT: RED-ONTAN FLORAL VELVET DRESS Searle Blatt; BEAD FRINGE NECKLACE Ben

SHAWL —Anichini: WHITE

Strongwater

Banana Republic; ANTIQUE Hamilton WATCH—Time



BEAD

Kieselstein-Cord

cloth bathrobe New York

ZIP-FRONT SWEATER WITH

Misle;

183

Company; white terry-

WATCH — Giorgio Al mam RIGHT; CASHMERE HOODED

Cashmere;

GOLD LOCKET WITH PAVE DIAMOND BAND — Barry

NIGHTGOWN — Christine

United

LEFT: BEADED DRESS





SUNGLASSES— Kenneth Cole; TAN MOHAIR gloves

172

Levi Strauss



for Accessory

Resource Gallery

United Colors of

Sisley by

— Elena Shovider

Houper

JACKET



— DKNY; NECK-

—Agnes

Manolo Blahnik; NECKLACE

AND BRACELET — Fragments Katherine Hamnett;

BAG—Judith

Leiber; BELT





182

JUMPSUIT

Kenneth Cole; GOLD

168 LEFT:



by Ralph

— Barneys New York: SANDALS — Lauren:

BLACK G SHOCK

Epaulette;

Blahnik

RIGHT: NAVY SILK PEA-

Blatt:

JET





EARRINGS Ben Amun; RHINESTONE-ENCRUSTED CLUTCH—Judith Leiber; BLACK SATIN EVENING SHOES



Manolo Blahnik RIGHT: RED

wool

suit

— Ellen Tracy Wha-

191

LEFT: TWEED DRESS, GOLD MESH BRACELET, BROWN SATIN PUMPS — Chanel; NECKLACE — Elizabeth Locke; BEADED HANDBAG Bottega

The Portablt

Redux, |on

51

sue Grafton,

quotes

CARDIGAN AND MATCHING TANK Express; SKIRT WITH



FLORAL DESIGN Express; PURPLE LEATHER BALLET

2

193

LEFT.

DRESS —

l>4

;

CLOCKWISE: striped

What

in

m

in

Heathei

High

\

Si

1997). ii

(

Hi,

1

1,

isher, Postcards from

1

Edge

l

l

(Man

h

Vanity Fait

to

Nm.i Foch

the movie

In

Imerican in

Paris 14

CLOCKWISE. FROM 111 BOY-SHORTS BOTTOM AND



(MGM,

1951

Helen Fielding,

I

?ft



Bridget Jones's

1

RIGHT: sabrina

— Manolo Blahnik; PRINCESS HEEL — Isaac STACKED HEEL—J.

STILETTO HEEL



Manolo Blahnik: HIGH STACKED HEEL Charles David; SENSIBLE heel Bruno Magli; IOUIS XIV HEEL Cole hum



vet Said,

Diary

in

,•/

Journal,

Aneds

Kaplan, ed

from The

ugeni

1

hi

Biirlletl's

Familiar Quotations, Justin (Little.

Blown and

...np.iiiv 19

117 Sophia

oren from an inter-

1

Mew on Good

Morning,

I

of

Bi uhl, eds.

IV 1979).

\1«

h

lit

lis lues de



in "lues

19!

la

Fressange, quoted

Donald

1

from Justjoking, Smith and |on

Atlantic, 1997)

I

Planning"

CitJ

I II,

In

(March

1995)

linn Brown,

Winokur, eda

i I

s

Jennifer Soruby,

.I/me (March, r

Valley oj

124

Bill Blass.

describing the ele-

e of i

l'ini'i-i

(.uesi in Paris

V

quoted

in the 1950s,

WordStai

Inlet national, 1992)

Mercedes de

Vcosta, describ-

ing hei

Rita

quoted

sister,

in

1

The Powet

Annette fapet

i

''7

ydig,

Henrj [ames, l

of Style h\

dith

oj Style

in

The

bv Annette

Elsie qj

Jams from

Women's (

Charles Dickens, Gnwi Expectations

(

Mind (Aconian

Press. 1983).

(February

125 Claudia Shear, Blown Sideways

Encyclopedia

Wit. Anecdotes

1.

1995).

and 133 Lisa Bimbach. The

athj Handley, ed.

Preppy

1995).

44 Isaac Mi/rahi. Vogue magazine

46 Logan Pearsall Smith, from

Official

Handbook (Workman.

1980).

103 Dustin

Hoffman

(United

as Ralso in

/J5 Ilene Beckerman, Love, Loss,

and What

Artists. 1969).

I

Wore (Algonquin

Books, 1995). 104-105Ha\ Borland. "Autumn

Understanding

43 Carrie Donovan, Women's Daily

iwn Publishers. 1994).

Backward

the movie Midnight Cowboy

41 Langston Hughes, Simple

Wan

t

(Prentice Hall. 1982).

1907; Allied A.

Knopf, 1992)

Speaks Hi*

in

l>\

1934; Scribner, 19

1

1994).

u

quoted

Through Life (Dial Press, /('/

Edkins (Crown Publishers.

in-

as

What ton

(,1am,

and Diana

(July 1998).

Is

lor

—October 25."

in

Sundial of the Seasons, quot-

ed

in

The International

Thesaurus

of Quotations,

136-37

].<\

Mclnerney, Bright

Lights.

Big City (Vintage

Contemporaries, 1984).

139 Edith Head,

in

"Body by

— In Originals

Eugene Ehrlich and Marshall

MacLaine

De Bruhl,

Edith Head," C. Robert

eds. (1964;

HarperCollins, 1996).

220 Chic Simple

I

Tapert and Diana Edkins

Kamali; asymmetrical SUIT— DKN'Y

heel

DoUs

Grove is



I

I

Andre Gide,

W

Jacqueline Susann, Hi,

(



&

7" Cybill Shepherd, In Styl

Diary (Viking, 19

HALTER TOP GottCX; BANDEAU TOP AND BRIEFS ;.il\ in Klein Collet Hon; string BIKINI—United Colors oi Benetton; black AND WHITE SUIT WITH ZIP front Nautica; one-piece HALTER SUIT Nol nil

lew;

ket

vol. - (Swallovi Press,

1990; ll.np.it ollins,

1

(

tvybody

\

Autumnal." from

and Marshall De

in

ngs

//s ]ohn Donne. "The

I

Quotations,

Gene Kelh

in

Books 1988 •

International Thesaurus

1998)

/

|

SHOES — Nike

Mi/rahi;

Robert Byrne, ed. (Ballantine

\in\

l.\

etterman, from 1,911

inokur, ed.

(966)

Is, .n

I

/;, ii

1992)

Nin,

1984)

i

112 David

(

in

77

me Collins,

/// Di.iniie Fenisiein. Time

'unaudgeon

oletu

\m.

\n\lluiig fbl

1998)

a Fashion

1987; Pocket Books,

1

22-21 Mae West, quoted '

\\

Warburg, \ii.ii-

STASIS FS ATHLETIC

TO

(

(

Portable

h,

(Dutton 7^

1990)

13

rets of

selected and translated

Michael Grant tf.,.' Press,

(June

Redux, |on

Reunion (Touchstone Pictures

Marilyn

["he Bible, lh, Sayings oj the

b\

Bern H.ilbieu h with S.db

I

hunt

107

Bible,

72 Katherine Whitehorn, from

the movie Rom)

Sisters in Crime,

Pulishing Group, 1995)

1998

1997).

and Mil Itrli

I

7.

fUniverse, 1997). .is

Press. 1989).

I

Wadyka, Sw

Ii

Abingdon

Wallace, ed. (Berkley

old

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ruefulness,"

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17 Donatella Versace,

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Ralph by Ralph Lauren;

Blahnik;

Richards, in Wliai

Beauty tb) Dorotfvj Schefer

Salvatore Ferragamo

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Ann

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Bonnet with

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1963).

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view, 1993. Also in Chic Simple:

The Parallax View

Clothes (Alfred A.

(Paramount/Gus. 1974).

43PINK JACKET, DRESS,

Schuster. 1984).

original Chic Simple inter-

144 Cocktail waitress in the movie

Plimpton and Christopher

Knopf,

Memphill, eds. (Knopf, 1984).

1993).

148 George Herbert. "Jacula Pi

endp.4 George Sand, Pearls of Wisdom,

/76 Anita Loos, quoted

udentum," from The

York Times,

International Thesaurus of

A

Sexton:

in

Anne

177 Cyra McFadden. The

(Houghton

Mifflin,

Corvatch

Sally

movie Onl\

A

PHOTOGRAPHY

page 93 in

Harper Book of Quotations. I.

Fitzhenry. ed.

180

162 Katherine Whitehorn,

36-37 UV COLORS page 37

POWDER BRUSH ROSES

in

page 39

pages 102-03

by

Women,

Rosalie Maggio, ed. (Beacon

A

in

RIND

Liberated View of Lesbianism

by Sidney Abbott and Barbara

164 Toast given by Derrill Osborn. Vice President. Divisional

189 Joan Rivers, quoted Yoiit

in

New

114

APPLE page 115 MAKEUP

148-49CANDltS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT TARDIO page 15 SUIT

AND ACCESSORIES

1996).

AND NECKLACE New

192 Rita Rudner, "The

Erma Bombeck, from The by

Stand-

Comics," from Quotations

Icon: The

ed.

(Simon

&

Schuster. 1989).

Portable

ed. (Dutton.

TURTLENECK

Familiar Quotations, Justin

Kaplan, ed.

(Little,

Brown

and Company, 1992).

EARRING AND

pages 134-35

RED SEQUINED CARDIGAN

TOMA

BY KENJI

page J.VFRAGRANCE bottles

PHOTOGRAPHY

BY JAMES WOJCIK

and shoes

205 Molly Ringwald

as

Samantha

movie

207 Ilene Beckerman,

Sixteen

I

I74WHITI NIGHTGOWN

AND BATHROBE

page 175

page 17

ACCESSORIES SHIRT page 23 RED SUIT page

RED page

84 S U

I

WOOL

SUIT page 193

33BLACK TURTLENECK

&

1

DRESS page

34

BLACK

LEATHER JACKET page 190

BLACK DRESS AND

ACCESSORIES

224 Susan Brownmiller, Few in in tit

page

page 186 JEANS,

Wore (Algonquin

Books. 1995).

SWEATER AND KHAKIS OUTFIT page 183 SUIT AND

BRACELET page 22PUCCI

Love, Loss,

(Linden Press/Simon

COM-

SWEATER SET AND

'.

and What

page

PACT page 181 LIGHT BLUE BAG. CASE, JEANS,

Sin (1986; G.K. Hall, 1990).

in the

LONG SKIRT OUTFIT

AND ACCESSORIES

.'._.,'"

Candles (Universal, 1984). Bartlett's

LIP-

OUTFIT AND SWEATER AND

Dressmaker's Doll," in Double

173 James Thurber. New Yorkercxctoon caption, from

RED PEACOAT

page 132

SHOES

page /2SUIT

204 Agatha Christie, "The

Baker

1992).

SWEATER AND PANTS OUT-

LIPSTICK, ATOMIZER,

Curmudgeon Redux,

Jon Winokur,

/52MARKET BAG,

page 133 RED

STICK, GLOVES, CLUTCH

Press, 1995).

Abby Adams,

70 Fran Lebowitz, from The

page

page 151 CZ

PHOTOGRAPHY

Press, 1996).

Absolutes of Style (St. Martin's

1

BAG

page 107 SUIT

Women, Rosalie Maggio, ed.

(Beacon

203 Dodie Kazanjian,

Scold,

SHOULDER

page 67

Jon Winokur, ed. (Dutton.

Uncommon

page

TRAPPER'S HAT page 163

Up

167 Shelley Winters, from An

BAG

CASHMERE CARDIGAN AND PANTS OUTFIT

1992).

//^HEIRLOOM

page

BAG, KELLY BAG, VUITTON

OUTFIT page 145 HEELS,

Maggio, ed. (Beacon Press,

Curmudgeon Redux,

FORMS

AND DRESS

FIT page 136

AND NECKLACE

Times Magazine, from

Merchandise Manager,

Portable

GOLD CHAIN,

page 45 JACKET, T-SHIRT,

165 Helen Fielding, Bridget Jones's

766

AND SCARF, LEATHER

JEANS

Neiman Marcus,

Diary (Viking, 1997).

ACCESSORIES page 106

pages 104-05 LEAF page

Quotations by Women, Rosalie

Dallas.

S S

SUN-

BARN JACKET, BACKPACK

DRESSES,

pages

Love (Stein and Day. 1972).

Press, 1976).

page 79 D R E page 90

CITRUS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARIA ROBLEDO

Kennedy,

R.

EARRINGS WITH HAT

page 107

The

1967).

page 78

I

Bender Altschul (Coward-

187 Florynce

BOOTS

AGENDA, ANKLE BOOTS

Beautiful People by Marylin

McCann,

page 73

page 74 P N K

FLOWER

quoted

AND PANTS OUTFITS

91

Time of Cholera (Penguin

Bill Blass,

SHIRT

GLASSES AND WATCH page

Sappho Was a Right-on Woman:

"Keeping Cool,"

from Quotations

&

HYERS pages

'

(HarperPerennial, 1993).

rubber ducks

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GENTL

to

Books, 1988).

Books, 1983).

160 Jean-Paul Sartre, from The

CAP-TOE PUMPS page 55

FLORAL DRESS AND HOOP

Quinn (Simon &

in the

156 Cynthia Heimel, Sex Tips for Girls (Fireside

DANA GAL-

BY

LAGHER

179 Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Love

1994).

POUCH SUIT page

SHIRT page 63 BOTH WHITE

Schuster, 1997).

You (Tri-Star/Yorktown,

Robert

A Guide

page 45

ARMANI

PEARLS page 62 WHITE

Adventurous Entertaining by

as Kate

in the

Serial:

178 Barbara Howar, quoted The Party:

Hunt

51

(Knopf, 1977).

1977).

151 Bonnie

Glaze,

eds. (HarperCollins, 1987).

Year in the Life of Mann County

Self-Portrait in Letters,

eds.

SCARVES page 48

Mifflin, 1988).

Linda Gray Sexton and Lois

Ames,

Jerome Agel and Walter

Simpson, ed. (Houghton

B.

eds.

(1651; HarperCollins, 1996).

149 Anne Sexton, quoted

New

from Simpson's

Contemporary Quotations, James

Eugene Ehrlich

Quotations,

and Marshall De Bruhl,

in

AND ACCESSORIES; PUMPS AND ACCESSORIES page 44

page 206HEELS

BUSTIER page

•/2CHARM BRACELET page

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221

)

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Special

Beene;

Giorgio Armani;

thanks

to:

New

York;

Gayla

Silva

Barneys

David

Paul

Bentley;

De Rosa

(

ASSOCIATE EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR

lass

Hampton Classii Horse at The Events Registrai

the

at

Cohen;

fill

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National

MS

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McCormick; Janet McCue

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Klein;

Amu

Nicholas Latimer; Ralph Lauren; Paul Marshall;

the Cleveland Plain Dialer,

MiDennou; Sonn) Mehta; Keibun Miyai a Vmanda Monogue Burch; Susan Penzer; Marc) Posner;

Beck)

fohn

Shore;

Horticultural

Grills;

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Pennsylvania

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thermometer

parka

toys

pea coat

!J

shearling

sunglasses

training

cup

vitamins

sturdy shoes

LI

—weather protection

washcloths/wipes

LINDA GILLAN GRIFFIN

waterproof changing sheel

DAVID BASHAW is a New York photographer in whose work has appeared

tights

tweed

in In Style, Self,

Young Children

wool or cashmere muffler

LI

wool socks LI

Infants

modern-day

created the best-selling Chic

whatever occasion and Jeff is never invited anywhere.

pacifier

moleskin muffler

of the

music tapes

inclement weather

and Toddlers

baby pillow

LI

LI <

aps

burping towel disposable diapers eating utensils

freelance

phone numbers

and

books/magazines

TRUCCHIA

stylist,

's

the fashion editor of the Houston Chronicle.

Health,

HOPE GREENBERG, a New York-based

has worked on two Chic Simple books,

Accessories, in addition

has spent

Women

to styling for various magazines.

many

's

Wardrobe

VALERIE

years designing for fashion magazines in

electronic

Paris

games

and New York, including Marie

Claire,

Mirabella,

games

blankets bottles, nipples,

address book with important

and Men

is

crayons/ pencils

bibs

LI

STONE and KIM JOHNSON GROSS

lovey

hat

lip

JEFF

juices

foul-weather boots

gum

(for airline travel)

IJ identification

juice packs

medicine

money

Alfred A. Knopf, Publisher,

New York

www.randonihouse.coni www.chicsimple.coBQ

2/99

1

and

Vogue.

— • •Beware once you've read

this

book.

There are no more excuses except

'I'd

rather be wearing a paper bag.' Delightfully informative, witty, and, thank heavens,

book would make a great roommate or mother.**

seldom overbearing,

this

—WENDY WASSERSTEIN. author of The Heidi Chronicles

••Houston, we have a patch

me

in to

closet

problem

Chic Simple. But

Cybill advisory for

any

first,

woman

a

with

spiked heels and strappy sandals: Wear

them only when

lying

down.

3

—CYBILL SHEPHERD

• •Armed with

this

wonderfully infor-

mative book and a full-length mirror,

you

will always

be simply chic.** —CAROLINA HERRERA

ISBN 0-375-40245-4

53000

9

'780375M02456

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