Zadar In Your Pocket

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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events MapsZADARS Summer 2012Europe’s best city guides for more than 20 years20A celebratory year180 years of the Zadar National Museum and 800 years of the Franciscan Heritage Discover why this ancient city is full of zest, zip and zing.N°9 - complimentary copy zadar.inyourpocket.comA sizzling destinationCONTENTS3E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E SContentsArriving in ZadarWherefore beer? 6 7 8 10 20 23 28 29 31Ah iz lyin

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Content

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Contents

Zadar
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Summer 2015

Art comes to life
Read the stories of
Zadar’s historical
characters

Can you dig it?

Ten must-see
archaeological sites

N°12 - complimentary copy
zadar.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Summer 2015

1

Foreword

Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

4

Voice and choice

Arrival & Getting Around

6

A guide to abide when help is needed

City Basics

12

Sightseeing

14

Archeological Treasury
Surroundings

25

Shopping

50
58

Delicatessen and souvenirs

Restaurants 27

Hotels

Food for thought

Places to stay for every pocket
32

Whet your taste buds

Coffee & Cakes

47

Nature’s gift to uplift

Piping hot tips

Local Flavour

40

Croatian archeological destinations

A zest for experiencing new things

Zadar Pulse

37

To see is to believe

Making your stay stress free

Culture & Events

Nightlife
Let the music take you higher

36

Maps & Index
City map / Street Register
City centre map

61

62-63
64-65

Who stole the cookies from the cookie jar?

Molat, one of the islands of Zadar archipelago - Zadar Tourist Board Archives

2

Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

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Summer 2015

3

Foreword
Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another sizzling season of fun and excitement in the city of Zadar. Our
crew has worked day and night to gather all of the latest in
where to be and what to do. We have something for everyone which includes a comprehensive guide to the city’s
architectural monuments that ought to informatively dazzle sightseers; by knowing the history behind these grand
walls, churches and chapels, you start to appreciate why
and how these epic structures were built, not to mention
our detailed special on ancient fortresses that were constructed in defending this marvel of a city. Nature enthusiasts will be treated to some of the finest national parks and
islands in Europe whilst those seeking an adrenaline rush
can fill their calendars with adventure sports that will raise
a sweat throughout the entire summer. As you have chosen
your stay along the Adriatic, it is our glorified yet humble
duty to give you a prelude into the gastronomic delights
that await your tickling taste buds. Our pages on cafés and
restaurants are ever so practical and provide some insightful tips in choosing where to dabble and dine. On behalf
of the entire team, we wish you all a sensational summer.

Publisher
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
ISSN 1334-9228
Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
Zadar In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
[email protected], www.inyourpocket.com
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by Radin Print
Editorial
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Lana
Kovačić
Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić
Assistant Eli Gajinov
Design Petar Mudnić
Photography Zadar In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
Cover © Zadar Tourist Board Archives
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Anita Marinić, Blanka Valić
[email protected]

Cover story
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Copyright notice
Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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4

Zadar In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of
months. Aside from launching a brand-new guide in Milan, Italy, we have also
been applying the finishing touches
to our new digital platform at inyourpocket.com. Radically redesigned and
restructured to place the visitor at the
heart of the cities we cover, our new
website puts you in total control of our
content on whatever desktop, laptop or
mobile device you are using. Give it a
go: it‘s the biggest digital leap forward
we have ever taken and entrenches our
position as a game-changing publisher
in all formats.
To keep up with all that’s new at In Your
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.
com/inyourpocket).
zadar.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving & Getting Around
arriving By car
The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the
first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the
major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time
between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending
on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at
weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around
coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can't avoid
travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear
up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways
- most currencies are accepted.

arriving By plane

arriving By boat
Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the passenger boats
dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of
the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see
there.
Jadrolinija
Jadrolinija's international services connect Zadar with
Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne
linije) run from Gaženica Ferry Port and passenger boats
(brodske linije) run from Zadar Old Town to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it's well
worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable.
Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying
the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These routes
are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do
not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans and
international ferries can be purchased online. For local
catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance
(maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.
Gaženička cesta 28/A, tel. (+385-23) 20 12 01, www.
port-authority-zadar.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.QC-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00, ag.zadar@
jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Miatours
QB-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+38523) 25 44 00, [email protected], www.miatours.hr.
Open 08:00 - 15:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 17:00 - 19:30.
A

arriving By bus
The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old
Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because
the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real
hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and
costs 3kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face
the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the
platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town:
On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the
local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and
the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you
a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at the ticket office
(Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you
two trips.
Zadar Coach Station
Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those
looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge
number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a
growing number of foreign destinations in all points of
the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 22:00.QO-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53
05, [email protected], www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

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6

Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar's airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km
southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the
passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an
ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones. Getting to
town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city
bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old
Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with
the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.
Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar)
Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb
and major European destinations. Charter flights during
summer. Croatia Airlines desk is Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat,
Sun according to flight schedule and also 90mins before
Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik
Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, [email protected],
www.zadar-airport.hr.

European Coastal
Airlines Seaports
Now it's easier than ever to get from the mainland to the
islands in Croatia. The European Coastal Airlines offer daily
hydroplane transfers from Split, Jelsa (Hvar), Pula and Rab.
With these multiple flight connections throughout the
Adriatic, you can even discover some of the most secluded
islands along the coastline.
At this time, the ECA has the following Seaside Airports up
and running:​
Seaside Airport Resnik
QPut Divulja 17, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 89 50
10, [email protected], www.ec-air.eu.
Seaside Airport Jelsa
Q
​ Mala Banda bb Jelsa, tel. (+385-21) 76 20 24, jelsa@
ec-air.eu, www.ec-air.eu
Seaside Airport Rab
QIvana Dominisa 4, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 87,
[email protected], www.ec-air.eu
Seaside Airport Pula
QRiva 1/a, Pula, tel. (+385-52) 64 74 16, pula@ec-air.
eu, www.ec-air.eu
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We connect
Croatia
European Coastal Airlines redefines
your journey in the air by providing
fast daily scheduled connections to
the most magnificent islands in the
Adriatic. You are invited to explore
stunning coastlines and the beautifully
preserved centuries old harbour towns
Croatia has to offer from an entirely
new perspective. Whether traveling for
business or pleasure, ECA will provide
an experience worth remembering.

www.ec-air.eu

Summer 2015

7

City Basics
need a place
to stay in zadar?

Arriving & Getting Around
In addition to the above, starting from July, there will be
seaside airport: Split downtown, Lastovo, Vela Luka, Mali
Lošinj, Novalja and Cres. FlyIn Caffe Bar is located at the
airports in Resnik, Rab, Jelsa and Split where they will have
a dock. The Outdoor Sundeck & Lounge Bar is located at
the airports in Resnik, Rab, Split and Jelsa for now, and will
soon be opening at the other locations. Souvenir shops are
located at all of the airports. At the souvenir shops you can
buy interesting souvenirs featuring hydroplane designs
and useful beach products. Passengers at the Resnik Seaside Airport, which is located beneath the Split Airport,
have a free shuttle transportation service from the Seaside
Airport to the Split Airport and vice versa (about a 5 minute
drive). Passengers can purchase tickets at any dock at the
addresses mentioned above, as well as in the Split Airport,
where they will also have a ticket office. And, of course,
online at www.ec-air.eu. Working Hours for the Ticket &
Check-in Offices, Put Divulje 7, Kaštel Štafilić: Monday - Friday 08:00 - 16:00, Dr. Franje Tuđmana Street, Kaštel Štafilić:
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Jelsa (Island of Hvar) Lučice Street
Open 07:00-20:00. During the summer months the Ticket
Offices will be open even longer. The flight schedules can
be viewed online at www.ec-air.eu or printed copies are
available at the docks.

arriving By train
The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow,
transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline
routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and
take considerably longer than travel by bus. The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next
door to the bus station, you can make use of all the services
available there. The ticket office is open 07:10 - 14:40.
Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought
on board the trains.Getting to town: On the road in front
of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which
take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A
10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip.
Central train station (Željeznički
kolodvor)
QO-1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55/National info line: 060 33 34 44, www.hzpp.hr.

Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre
QD-3, Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, info@
zadar.travel, www.zadar.travel. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 -24:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 -24:00. October Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00.
Zadar Tourist Board
QD-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+38523) 21 17 81, [email protected], www.zadar.travel.
Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
8

Zadar In Your Pocket

Zadar County Tourist Board
QA-3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16,
fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, [email protected], www.zadar.hr.
Open 07.00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

zadar travel

Public transport

last
minute
booking
app

City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old
Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office
outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00,
Sat 07:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two
journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus
(10kn for one trip).
Liburnija
QO-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05,
[email protected], www.liburnija-zadar.hr.

Taxi
There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which an equally varied array of prices
apply. Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest
bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.
Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60
kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter
is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver's sake.

Parking
Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact
that within the walls most of it is pedestrianised. There are
a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces
alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal.
There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by
the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking
in Zadar every day from Jul 1 to Aug 31, 08:00 - 22:00 is
charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2
- 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. In May, June
and September, 08:00 - 22:00 every day except Sunday at
the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone
3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. From October 1 to April 30,
08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00 and not Sun, charges are as
follows: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h
and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h.
Text Message Parking
Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay
for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas - they should have a blue or white field. Simply
send the registration number of your car as a text message
(no spaces, no special characters) to 70 8231 ( zone 1), 70
8232 ( zone 2), 70 8233 (zone 3), 70 8234 (zone 4), 70 8236
(Petrčane zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get
a message back from them.
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zadar Summer
tourist2015
board
9

Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving & Getting Around
Car rental
Avia
Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 02, (+385-) 091
898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QD-2, Narodnog lista 2, tel.
(+385-23) 21 25 79/(+385-) 091 898 91 12, 091 570 22
31, [email protected], www.avia-rentacar.hr. Open
08:00 - 20:00. A
Dollar & Thrifty
Also at Zadar airport, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QN-6, Bože
Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare), tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/
(+385-) 098 42 48 91, [email protected], www.subrosa.
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
A
Hertz
QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415
55 42, [email protected], www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 21:00. A
Lulić
Also at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 07:00 - 23:00.QF4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/(+385-)
098 31 37 47, [email protected], www.lulic.hr. Open 07:00 23:00. A
Modul Auto
QR-1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-) 091 222 26 92, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. A
Oryx
Also at Zadar airport, tel. 34 84 15, Open 08:00 - 21:00.QB2, Vrata Sv. Krševana bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 01/(+385-)
099 634 93 27, [email protected], www.oryxrent.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, 08:00 12:00. A
Rent A - H Zadar
Rent a scooter.QL-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+38523) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, [email protected].
Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Travel agencies
Adventure Park Zadar
QKožinska cesta 108, tel. (+385-) 098 85 44 31, danijel@
adventure.hr, www.adventure-park.hr. Open 10:00 18:00. N
Terra
Informative staff offer a wide range of group and individual
bookings for cruises, air flights, accommodation, rentals,
currency exchange and more. Adventure enthusiasts can
pick and choose from the amount of available packages
on offer. QG-2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72
94, fax (+385-23) 33 72 95, [email protected], www.
terratravel.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A
10 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Summer 2015

11

City Basics

City Basics
Customs

National Holidays

Since Croatia will enter the EU on July 1, there will be no
longer custom limits between member states or tax return.
Legislation for other non-member states is in the process
and we recommend you to follow info at www.poreznauprava.hr.

January 1
January 6
April 5
April 6
May 1
June 4
June 22
June 25
August 5
August 15
October 8
November 1
December 25
December 26

Disabled Travellers
Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take
shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is
still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car
parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at
least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new
buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can
expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to
most buildings. If you're planning to visit, we suggest you
inquire about your destination in relation to these matters
and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your
arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity
The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money
There are plenty of exchange offices around Zadar, as well
as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a
day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not
all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.
If you're planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you
should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash
you think you'll need for the trip, as finding places that let
you put it on plastic could be a problem.

visas

New Year's Day
Epiphany
Easter
Easter Monday
International Workers' Day
Corpus Christi
Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
Statehood Day
Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
Feast of the Assumption
Independence Day
All Saints' Day
Christmas
Saint Stephen's Day

Roads
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in
urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/
ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As
they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Smoking
Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café
culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits
or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces
including restaurants where it has never been easy to find
a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you're prepared to move inside.

Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

EU! Here we come! Since Croatia has become a new
member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the
Croatian visa policy became fully compliant with the
European Union visa policy. What does that mean?
All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU
member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also.
Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/
embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish
to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend
you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the
border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you
cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you
will not be able to enter Croatia.

12 Zadar In Your Pocket

When things go wrong
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zadar significantly
lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep
your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe's wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police,
ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district,
in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested,
you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case,
contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for
ER is located in General Hospital in Bože Peričića 5 (L-4)
where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car
accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as
for accidents on the sea call 195.
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Summer 2015

13

Culture & Events

Culture & Events
future past, future
present: zadar and
modern architecture
by Jonathan Bousfield

the radical plan was never enacted. The urge to revitalize
Zadar’s cultural inheritance was another important plank
in the city’s post-war reconstruction. Writer and intellectual Miroslav Krleža was sent to Zadar in 1949 to oversee
an exhibition entitled Gold and Silver of Zadar, based on
the artistic treasures salvaged from the city’s churches. Not
only did this exhibition lead to the establishment of the The
Gold and Silver of Zadar museum that still exists in the city’s
Benedictine Convent of St Mary’s, it also helped create a
Croatia-wide wave of interest in Zadar, boosting the reconstructing city’s morale.
It was Krleža that presided over the competition for a new
urban plan. The winning proposal, by Bruno Milić, left more
room for Zadar’s historic buildings, but again portrayed
Zadar as a utopian city of the future, filled with rectangular blocks of concrete. Milić’s Zadar plan definitely caught
the spirit of the age and was turned into an exhibition that
toured Europe, visiting Paris, Milan, Moscow and London before being shelved by the Croatian authorities as far too
costly and ambitious.

Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Zadar has a subtly different look to those of its Dalmatian
neighbours. Although it is more ancient than Split, and just
as rich in medieval heritage as Šibenik, central Zadar represents a far more complex meeting of old and new, with
Roman-era fragments and Romanesque churches rubbing
shoulders with blocks of flats, sleek cafés, and ultra-contemporary architectural installations such as the Sea Organ
and the Greeting to the Sun.
The reasons for this architectural mix-up rests largely on the
fact that Zadar was subjected to serious bombing raids by
the allies in World War II, leaving the huge kind of holes in
the urban fabric of the Old Town that had to be filled by
post-war planners.
Of all Croatia’s Adriatic cities, Zadar was the one that suffered most in terms of destruction and depopulation during the war, and the generations that rebuilt the city in the
Fifties and Sixties were genuine urban pioneers. Maybe
it’s because of Zadar’s post-war experience of being a city
on the architectural frontier that makes it such a forwardlooking and innovative place today.
The rebuilding of Zadar was a major talking point for Croatia’s post-war rulers. An initial plan put forward by architects Zenko Strižić and Božidar Rašica envisaged clearing
much of the Old Town on the peninsula and building a
modernist-inspired city in its place. However there was a
competing desire among Croatian intellectuals to preserve
as much of the city’s historical heritage as they could, and
14 Zadar In Your Pocket

However the architectural visions of the Fifties, however
over-optimistic, played a major part in determining contemporary Zadar’s appearance. Leading modernist architects were the ones who got the job of designing most of
the new buldings. It was Rašica and Milić, for example, who
built the boxes-on-stilts buildings that line Zadar’s main
street, the Kalelarga.
Of course a lot of people have felt over time that the buildings designed by Rašica and Milić were mistakes, concrete
eyesores that took the heart and soul out of a historical city.
However they were a logical response to Zadar’s wartime
destruction, and nowadays have become classics in their
own right.
They also fit in rather well with Zadar’s current transformation into an innovative Adriatic city of the present day, a
place in which a piece of centuries-old masonry can stand
alongside a sound-and-light installation like Greeting to
the Sun. The so-called Rašica building, the pale concrete
slab that runs along one side of the Forum, looks just as
serene and well-proportioned as its significantly older
neighbours, especially now that the Forum area has been
thoroughly renovated and re-landscaped by architect Ante
Uglešić.
Zadar’s Boutique Hostel, a modern-interior headline-grabber designed by Studio Up and Damir Gamulin Gamba, is
an adaptation of one of Bruno Milić’s modernist blocks on
the Kalelarga. An important aspect of the project was that
Milić’s original façade had to remain unchanged.
Incomplete and controversial though it is, the modernist
projects of the Fifties and Sixties have had a profound effect
on Zadar’s urban look. The upcoming projects of the future,
such as the ambitious Gates of Zadar project entrusted to
Sea-Organ author Nikola Bašić, can only be seen in the context of these earlier utopian predecessors.
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Zadar Tourist Board - photo by Nenad Marčev

Exhibitions
04.05 Monday - 15.10 Thursday
Playing With Glass
The first solo exhibition by Croatia’s young glassblower
Marko Štefanac is truly a real treat for all lovers of exceptional art work. By using the unique free blowing and
modelling technique, Štefanac is known for creating replicas of ancient glass. The result is a collection of harmonious contemporary sculptures and utilitarian objects for
all to see.QD-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana
Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.
mas-zadar.hr. J
03.06 WEDNESDAY - 16.07 THURSDAY
BLUE NOSES - RUSSIAN ART
The duo Aleksander Šaburov and Vjačeslav Mizin is a tandem known for their satirical and oft-times provocative
works. Their exhibit ‘Sheltered Beyond Time’ is when they
spent days in an underground bomb shelter to experience
life after a disaster. With no clocks, alcohol or contact with
the outside world, one solitary video camera exemplifies the gags that had gone on. Now it is there for all to
see in addition to more of their work.Q D-3, City Lodge,
Narodni trg. J
05.05 Tuesday - 15.10 Thursday
Touch of Glass - An exhibition of contemporary Nordic glass
See a scintillating exhibit that presents 80 artworks made
from glass that were created in famous glassworks and by
manufacturers including Holmegaard, Ittala, Magnor and
Skrufs to name a few. The best of Denmark, Finland, Norfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

way and Sweden hover to our shores in the promotion of
Nordic glass and well known Scandinavian design. Works
by Jorn Utzon and Swedish ceramic and glass designer
Ingegerd Råman vindicate why glass is class.QD-2, The
Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora
1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas.zadar.hr. J
15.06 Monday - 01.09 Tuesday
Civic Life and the Industrialisation of
Zadar
Over the entire summer you can visit the Arsenal which
has an entire display area devoted to a collection of photographs, postcards and objects that have recorded various
moments in time and with which one can reconstruct the
life and appearance of the city. It also brings to life former
exhibitions and photos from over the years. Step back in
time and appreciate a touch of history to a grand Adriatic
City.QA-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385 -23) 25 38 21. Open
09:00 - 16:00. J
19.06 Friday - 03.07 Friday
Friends of the Sea – Nineteen Hundred
and Something
Take a glimpse into the world of our forefathers and see
the beauty of Croatia captured as never before! This one
extraordinary photo exhibition from the ‘Friends of the
Sea’ cycle and selected by the ‘Rovinj-Photodays’ expert
team will be held with 62 large format documentary
photographs taken at the beginning of the 20th century
showcasing the life and heritage of the Croatian Adriatic.
QPozdrav suncu. J
Summer 2015

15

Culture & Events

Culture & Events
jazz scene with her lush warm sound and velvety voice.
QD-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, Muzej Antičkog
stakla. Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets available at the
box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). Open 11:00 -13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00.
Admission 60kn. J
06.08 Thursday
Zdenka Kovačićek & Black Cofee
The Sv. Stošija Square in front of the Cathedral in Zadar will
provide the perfect backdrop for this evening event. Black
Coffee is a famous jazz group with majestic musicians
who team up with Croatian jazz singer Zdenka Kovačićek.
When they combine, you should be in the jive, as on that
night, the sounds of blues and jazz will come alive!QB-3,
Trg sv. Stošije. Concert starts at 21:00. J

Black Coffee - photo by Saša Drach

Jazz Concerts
07.07 Tuesday
Black Coffee Latin Expression
Lovers of Latino look out as this sort after jazz group take
a twist for the summer season thanks to the famous percussionist Andy Petko making a special joint appearance.
Their repertoire includes Latin standardsof Brazilian music
for the most, yet supplemented with a few Caribbean
numbers too. The beautiful Zadar singer Martina Thomas will lead the evening. Also at 27.07. MondayQC-4,
Narodni trg. Concert start at 21:00. J
08.07 Wednesday
Jazz Orchestra HRT
Are you in the mood for jazz? Well put on your dancing
shoes as some of Croatian’s finest musical artists (Valerija
Nikolovska) get together to perform a repertoire of Jazz
classics.QA-3, Morske orgulje. Concert starts at 21:00.
J
28.07 Tuesday - 30.08 Sunday
Jazz & Blues Festival
The zesty sounds of these genres will for three days become a draw card for some of the world’s best jazz and
blues musicians. The opening night belongs to the legendary British jazz pianist and Hammond organ player
Brian Auger and his associates (aka Brian Auger’s Oblivion
Express) who fuse jazz, rock, soul and funk. The second
day is reserved for one of the most important American
blues artists today in Neil Black & the Healers, their music
although immensely entrenched in Texan tradition, still
sounds innovative and powerful. The finale belongs to the
multitalented flutist, saxophonist, vocalist and composer
Camille Thurman who breathes a new lease of life to the
16 Zadar In Your Pocket

10.08 Monday
Glenn Miller Orchestra
Moonlight Serenade, Somewhere Over the Rainbow, In
the Mood, Rhapsody in Blue, and the list goes on and
on; just some of the almighty hits that this remarkable
orchestra may perform this coming August. Fans of big
band music can pretty much thank the heavens as one of
the greatest genre acts grace the stage at the Forum. The
orchestra plays an average of 300 shows per year worldwide, so here’s your chance.QB-3, Forum. Concert starts
at 22:00. J
13.08 Thursday
Arsen, Gabi i Matija Dedić
A true family affair! This trio of musicians have given Croatia so much over the years and have a portfolio few can
match. They join forces with son Matija who is a famous
jazz pianist and go on a retrospective of their joint and
individual successes in a night of evergreens.QA-3, Trg
tri bunara 1, Arsenal, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21, www.
arsenalzadar.com. Concert start at 21:00. Admission
60 - 80kn. J

20.08 Thursday
Daniele di Bonaventura & Black Coffee
Craving some jovial jazz jives, then join the jam! Two entities became one years back when the Italian pianist and
composer, Daniele Di Bonaventura linked up with this Croatian jazz group in a join project. The chemistry sparked
and they unite again playing their favs with lots of spark,
improvisation and Mediterranean synergy.QB-3, Trg sv.
Stošije. Concert starts at 21:00. J

Rock & Pop Concerts
17.07 Friday
Manu Chao
Famous for his lively energetic performances, Manu Chao
is about to turn up the heat with his political banter and
lyrics which deal with social reform, freedom and love.
Chao’s music is a unique combination of punk, French
chanson, salsa, reggae, ska and Algerian rai. Esteemed
around the world, anthems such as ‘Bong Bong’, ‘Cladestino’ and ‘Mi Vida’ ought to tear down the rafters.QE-3,
Obala kralja Tomislava 1 (Jazine Parking). Concert starts
at 22:00. Tickets 195 kn. J
23.07 Thursday
Silente
Young Dubrovnik pop rock group Silente caught the attention of both the Croatian media and public with their first
hit single ‘Terca na tišinu’ which topped national charts
and won awards in 2013/2014. Silente was nominated for
many national music awards. Concert starts at 21:00.QB-1, Trg
tri bunara 1, Arsenal, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21. Concert starts
at 21:00. Admission 50 - 60kn.Tickets available at the Petrol
gas station and Combo Music Shop (Vladka Mačeka 3). J

24.07 Friday
S.A.R.S.
Founded in 2006, this popular Belgrade group has already gained an army of followers with their mixture of
different musical genres such as reggae, ska, hip hop, and
traditional Serbian music. With gigs dubbed as wild and
energetic, this will be their biggest concert in Zadar thus
far and no doubt, a sweat raiser.QLedana Lounge Bar, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-23) 095 396 39
96, www.ledana.hr. J
28.07 Tuesday
Sister Sledge
Bring it on... 70s American funk and disco returns with sisters Debbie, Joni, Kathy and Kim still playing some of the
greatest hits of their time. The older gen can surely recall
‘We are family, Lost in music, He’s the greatest dancer and
Frankie’ just to name a few’. It’s diva time so bring your
dancing shoes and we’ll have the disco ball turning.QTrg
tri bunara1, Arsenal, www.arsenalzadar.com. Concert
starts at 22:00. Tickets 220 - 390 kn. J
07.08 Friday
Josipa Lisac
She has chart topping hits that cover five decades but her
peak album, ‘Diary of one love’ from 1973, is stamped as
legendary. Her rock roots have tapered and these days
her unique voice and sound is pop melancholy. She still
attracts the tabloids with her avant-garde style, image
and visual appearance.QB-1, Trg tri bunara 1, Arsenal,
tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21, www.arsenalzadar.com. Tickets
cost 70kn if purchased in advance, otherwise 90kn on
the day of the concert. J

13.08 Thursday - 14.08 Friday
Novigrad Jazz Festival
If you haven’t been to Novigrad yet, it’s the perfect time to
uncover this great city while listening to some of the most
famous Croatian jazz and blues musicians. The main aim
is to introduce the broader public to the toe-tapping joys
of the style, as well as providing depth and satisfaction to
the most demanding purist, with a wealth of concerts for
all tastes.QNovigrad.
13.08 Thursday
Perpetuum Jazzile
This Slovenian vocal orchestra combines powerful
rhythms, rich harmonies and an unparalleled creativity
to their show. With no instruments on stage, their voices
combine to produce the music and tunes to original and
hit songs. Their repertoire is a special mixture of pop, jazz, gospel, blues, Brazilian bossa nova, disco and funk. The grace of
the human voice!QB-3, Forum. Concert start at 22:00. J

The Museum of Ancient Glass - F. Lasismi (Finland)

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Summer 2015

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Culture & Events
Dance events
25.08 Tuesday - 31.08 Monday
7th Monoplay - Festival Sola
This is the 7th Monoplay festival featuring contemporary
dances and solo performances by Croatian and foreign
dancers and choreographers. Along with the dance performances, workshops and lectures will be offered. Let
your body feel the music as you watch these modern and
innovative dances. QD-3, Sokolska ulica, Zadar Puppet
Theatre. J

Ethno
17.06 Wednesday - 19.06 Friday
International Folklore Festival of
Zadar County
During the summer, there will be a numbers of events. If
we can single out one event, then the International Folklore Festival of Zadar County 2015 is it, where you can see
cultural and artistic associations performing original or
choreographed musical and dance expressions that are
characteristic for this area.QD-3, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, Tg Petra Zoranića, Narodni trg, www.nmz.
hr. J
26.07 Sunday
LADO - National Folk Dance Ensemble of
Croatia
LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded
in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible
for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of
over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal
and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes
representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All material
is researched by experts who delve deep into the past
but also consider that the folk tradition is created by the
people, is alive and free to express itself. Lado really is a
national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see
them, you won’t be disappointed. Event starts at 21:00.
QD-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb, www.lado.hr. J

Special events
13.06 Saturday - 14.08 Friday
Terraneo Summer Break
After last year's baptism of fire, the excitement, passion
and vibe is beginning to spread around Dalmatia as festival fans are eager to find out about this year's Terraneo
line-up. Why the hype you may ask? Last year's first ever
edition simply rocked and with over 3000 devotees attending and DJs and bands pelting hits off stages, much
is anticipated second time round. So the latest is that the
event is expanding and will now be staged in two cities.
Šibenik is home of course and events will be held primarily
at the Fortress of Saint Michael. The new kid on the block
is Zadar, with events expected on the Square of Five Wells.
All these ancient sites of majestic historical meaning will
bring the best of today's music to the stage! And musi18 Zadar In Your Pocket

Culture & Events
cally, there is something for everyone; acid jazz, electronic,
funk, rock to hip hop, and DJs bring the house down pretty
much after midnight. Just to whisper, the 2 Cellos are back
ladies and gents; last year's half hour encore obviously
wasn't enough.QD-3, Trg pet bunara. J
14.08 Friday
2Cellos
They are Croatia’s sensation, a double bass duo who after uploading their version of Michael Jackson’s Smooth
Criminal on You Tube have had over eleven million clicks.
QD-3, Trg pet bunara. J
19.06 Friday - 19.09 Saturday
Feštice
Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to
the week's big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up
selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda - white wine
and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen's reataurants) and wander the
streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety. Events
start at 21:00.QŠiroka ulica, Kalelarga. J
25.06 Thursday - 27.06 Saturday
Rise Up Festival
Get up and rock with local bands and artists, such as
Đubrivo,Eclipse Of Time, Scarlet notes, Das rage, Nulapark,
La volpe, Shelter team, Kvaka 47, Cha jah ton. On Friday
June 25th, skaters, rollerbladers and BMX riders will show
off their skills in front the Menza https://www.facebook.
com/MenzaZd.
The event lasts two days and the entrance fee is 100kn
for both days.QE-2, Old Zadar Puppet Theatre (Jazine).
Tickets available at the Igrow Shop (Stomorica 2).
30.06 Tuesday - 04.08 Tuesday
21st Zadar Summer Theatre Festival
Its lights, camera, action in Zadar for 5 straight weeks and
there is something for everyone. From local to national
theatre groups; casts, crews, actors and directors give
it their all on stage to present some enthralling performances. Fatal love, lies, dishonesty, deception, curiosity
and turbulence are just some of the key elements that tell
the tales of these plays. Some of the highlights include
‘The Devil and a Girl' by Rene Medvešek, ‘Hamlet's Truth'
by Ana Prolić, the dance show ‘Kolo', ‘Defenders' by Vanča
Kljaković and the comedy ‘Beer' by Miro Gavran. Our very
own Maksim Mrvica, an international pianist extraordinaire is set to open the festival with a concert where his
classical crossover style is sure to amaze.QŠiroka ulica 8,
tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52/(+385-23) 31 45 86, www.hnkzadar.hr. Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00
- 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. Tickets
available at the box office (Široka ulica 8). J

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30.06. MAKSIM MRVICA
croatian national television
08.07. jazz orchestra

17.07. manu chao la ventura

28.-BRIAN
30.07.
zadar jazz & blues festival
AUGER'S OBLIVION • NEAL BLACK & THE HEALERS • CAMILLE THURMAN & MMT QUARTET
04.08. FORUM BAND

05.08. FRA ALLESANDRO
07./08.08. VIVA RIVA
10.08. GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA
13.08. PERPETUUM JAZZILE

TERRANEO SUMMER BREAK

16.06. Amy Lavere & Will Sexton
13.07. Sinkane
14.07. Nicola Conte & Ilija Rudman
14.08. 2Cellos
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ZADAR
TOURIST
BOARD

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Summer 2015

19

Culture & Events

Culture & Events
The Development of Local Customs: Tovareća mužika
draws its musical roots from a collection of random
sounds made to create a noise, called batarela. This sound
has been present in Dugi Otok for many generations.
Originally, Batarela calls were used to chase away the evil
spirits during the long and cold nights, and also celebrated
and mocked widows who were getting married again.
However, in 1959, at the wedding of an older woman, a
structured noise was introduced in order to create a recognizable tune to the disordered sounds. Gradually, over
the years, drums and horns were added and eventually an
impromptu orchestra was formed.

Saljski užanci - Zadar Tourist Board Archives

saljski užanci
06.08 Thursday - 09.08 Sunday
The Saljske Užance (Sali Festival), is a festival which has
been taking place, at Sali, on Dugi Otok (Long Island), since
1959, during the first weekend of every August. It was created in order to preserve the traditional customs, folklore
costumes and cuisine of the local islanders.The festival begins on the Thursday and lasts until the Sunday, on which
day they hold traditional ‘donkey races.' In addition, at this
unique event, you can listen to performances by, Tovareća
mužika, a famous musical group from Sali, which made
the 2012 list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of the Republic
of Croatia.
On the first day, Thursday, boats, filled with members from
the Tovareća mužika group, sail to Zadar where they perform in the center of the old city to open the festival.
On the second day, Friday, ‘Fisherman's Night' takes place.
Local cuisine from Sali is offered, such as fish stew, grilled
tuna and sardines, along with traditional sweets. As well,
there is an entertainment program featuring famous vocal
groups, called Klape.
On the third day, Saturday, sporting events and competitions take place during the day and in the evening a ‘Sali
Night' is held and the docks and boats are adorned with
lights. An entertainment program takes place along the
waterfront.
The fourth day, Sunday, is the closing day. The morning
begins with a traditional reveille. In the afternoon, the
famous 'donkey races' are held, a spectacular event, not
to be missed. At the end of the race there is an awards
ceremony and entertainment program on the waterfront.
20 Zadar In Your Pocket

Outfits: The Tovarća mužika have two combinations of
outfits, which they officially chose in 1963, as their uniforms. These outfits worn at festivals and during performances were selected to represent the clothes that fishermen wore from the early 20th century. The first outfit,
consists of a fisherman's hat, called a rašketa, a white shirt
without a collar, a black vest, black trousers with a belt,
white socks and black shoes. Optionally, a gold earring can
be worn on the right ear or a pocket watch can be used to
accessorize. The conductor of the orchestra, wears a top
hat instead of rašketa, a black bow tie or a scarf around his
neck, a white vest and if he wishes, white shoes and may
carry a cane. The second outfit, the groups ‘navy' uniform,
was chosen because of the connection of the island and
it's most famous instrument, the horn, with the sea. It also
consists of a rašketa, along with a blue-and-white striped
sailor's shirt, blue fishing pants tied with white rope or
nets, and traditional footwear, called škarpini. Again, optionally, a gold earring can be worn in the right ear and it is
not mandatory to wear the škarpini. The conductor wears
a top hat instead of rašketa, and a long-sleeved shirt, instead of a short-sleeved one.

30.06 Tuesday
Maksim Mrvica
Maksim Mrvica is a Croatian pianist who plays classical
crossover music. This classical genius started playing the
piano at the age of nine and has since then performed
in international beauty pageants and at the MTV awards.
His album, The Piano Player, was so popular in Asia that
it held the number 1 slot on the HMV international pop
chart in Hong Kong for twelve consecutive weeks! Concert opens Zadar Summer Theatre Festival.QD-3, Poljana
Šime Budinića. Concert start at 21:30. Tickets available
at the box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00-21:00. Admission
170 kn. J
08.07 Wednesday - 09.08 Sunday
The 55th Musical Evenings in St Donatus
If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting,
then this international music festival which combines
music and beautiful old church architecture will delight
you. The event will host numerous local ensembles and
solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber
music from abroad. It's considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Concerts
starts at 21:00.QB-3, St Donatus's Church, St. Anastasia's
Cathedral, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52/(+385-23) 30
04 30, www.donat-festival.hr. Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00
- 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert
venues. Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica
8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). J

09.07 Thursday
Aglaja - Ballet of Flags
Founded in the 1960s, this famous dance company from
the city of Bruges in Belgium brings a very expressive,
creative and enthusiastic dance performance to the stage.
Fifty dancers use flair, enthusiasm, rhythm, pace and expressive power in combination with flags to portray their
unique art form to classical music in the background. This
is an art form to sooth the soul!QForum, www.aglaja.be.
Performance start at 21:00. Addmission free. J
23.07 Thursday - 24.07 Friday
KalelargArt
A street art festival that includes dance and theatre performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas,
street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art
is taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations and at various times from dusk till dawn.QB/C-3,
Široka ulica (Kalelarga), Narodni trg, Forum. Festival
starts at 21:00. J
25.07 Saturday
Millenium Jump
When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals
will all be here for this growing event. It's the Millennium Jump
where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word 'go'
jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through
to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.
QB/C-4, Obala Petra Krešimira IV, Riva. J

New Members: The training of future Tovareća mužika
members begins during elementary school. They are
called, Pulići, and they perform at smaller events and
children's folklore festivals. Since the ensemble was created, hundreds of boys and young men have joined. It is
common to hear, throughout the year, boys learning to
play the horns and drums. When a senior members of
Tovareće mužike goes into retirement, a Pulići, which is in
high school, can become a ‘real' Tovareća mužika group
member.
Dugi Otok, the seventh largest island in Croatia, is located
off of the Dalmatian coast, west of Zadar. It is full of sparkling beaches and picturesque villages, set against a background of magnificent vineyards, orchards and cliffs filled
with lush vegetation. The island can be reached daily by
ferry from Zadar, as well as neighbouring islands.
Don't miss out on experiencing this spectacular unique event
and seeing the Tovareća mužika group in action!QTourist
Board Sali, Dugi otok, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94.
zadar.inyourpocket.com

Amy LaVere - Terraneo Summer Festival

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Photo / Autor

Summer 2015

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events
Workshops
01.01 Thursday - 31.12 Thursday
Glass Workshops at the Museum of
Antique Glass
Looking for a one of a kind experience, then this blowing
glass workshop ought to put some shine into your stay.
Through a glass window, see how the masters for hand
blowing of glass tend to their craft in creating replicas
from the Antique period. It’s a great way to pick up a readymade souvenir! Choose from any of three workshops to
see: glassblowing, glassblowing - lampworking, and beadmaking - lampworking. All are included in the admission
price which also includes a visit to current exhibitions.QD2, Poljana zemaljskog odbora 1, Museum of Ancient
Glass, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 30. Open 09:00 - 14:00. J
15.09 Tuesday
Making Četverokuke
Want something hands on? For eight Tuesdays in a row
starting September 15, at16.30 at the City Sentinel, visitors
are welcome to attend this workshop on the Četverokuke;
typical embroidery found on folk costumes from the Dinara area of Dalmatia. It is the most recognisable symbol and
guests can become acquaint to the techniques of making
it and the items of clothing it can be used on. Cultural yet
fun!QD-3, Narodni trg (Gradska straža). J

Zadar Tourist Baord Archives

Get a glimpse of traditional dances and songs that derive
from Northern Dalmatia on June 18 & 19, at the Petar Zoranić
Square, runs from 19:00 to 22:00. Also for an unforgettable experience visit folklore festival in Pridraga on July 18th.
30.07 Thursday - 01.08 Saturday
Full Moon Festival
On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva
is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the
famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and
mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve
everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and
traditional cooking. If you don't have the chance to travel
to Zadar's outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A
memorable event. Start at 18:00.QB/C-4, Riva. J

17.09 Thursday
Hand Weaving of Tkanica
Weave your way to the City Sentinel every Thursdays
starting September 17 at16.30 for a workshop on handweaving Tkanica, a woven belt that is an essential part of
women’s and men’s traditional costume of northern Dalmatia. Tkanica will be produced using tablet weaving and
a weaving frame.It continues for seven Thursdays in a row
in case your nearby.QD-3, Narodni trg (Gradska straža),
www.nmz.hr. J
Pottery from the Island of Iž
If in town, the National Square will be the site to create
and model some of the typical clay ceramics made on
the island. Throughout history, potters from Veli Iž were
exporting their products over the entire Adriatic coast and
this pottery is a protected cultural monument. Workshops
run from 09:00 to 11:00.QD-3, Narodni trg. J

22.08 Saturday - 29.08 Saturday
Avvantura Filmforum Festival Zadar
A platform for European co-productions and professional
filmmakers by promoting Zadar, Dalamtia and Croatia in
while as a film and production destination. Tis the mecca for roundtables, seminars, workshops, conferences,
film awards and screenings, retrospectives and a whole
lot more.QB-3, Forum, tel. (+385) 91 260 74 66, pr@
filmforumzadar.com, www.filmforumzadar.com. J
22 Zadar In Your Pocket

Hideout Festival

Sport events

SUMMER BEATS

16.07 Thursday
Basket Tour
On 16 July you have the chance to experience a basketball
tournament in the spiritual home of basketball in Croatia
(we're talking Zadar, of course). Show starts at 17:00.QB-3,
Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II, www.basket-tour.com. J

So you are on these pages because you’re in a festival frenzy and you were looking for a guide to lead you
through the labyrinth. Well buckle up and hold on tight.
We’ll lead you through the adventurous days and nights
of the summer accompanied by a soundtrack of techno,
house, trance, bass, tech-house (or no soundtrack at all if
you prefer)... We’ll attempt to give you a clear and concise
run through of the best festivals this beautiful country has
to offer from north to south and will make sure you know
the place, the date, and the headliners.
As for the festivals themselves, as an institution in the
past they served the purpose of strengthening the bonds
among the community in the era before mass media. That
time has passed but the need to be a part of something
bigger than yourself, a part of the community, is still very
much alive. This is the summer you’ll get everything you
ever wanted so no matter what happens just keep on
dancing and living!

20.07 Monday - 15.08 Saturday
VAK’AN’ZA - Sport & Music Festival (Water
polo Amateur Cup of ‘Anti-water polo
players and Non-swimmers’)
A fun for all water polo tournament for men, women and
a veteran's category with the aim of gathering old district
teams from the Zadar region. The event will be held across
various beaches with an entertainment programme provided throughout various cafes, clubs and bars…QB-4,
Riva, Varoš, Maraschino bar, Mango bar and City beaches. J
22.08 Saturday
Jadran Rowing Duel
Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed,
see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international
crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy. Starts
at 16:00 and its 500 meters in distance.QE-2, Jazine Bay,
www.vk-jadran.hr.

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ZAGREB
Our most northern destination and also the only continental location is the capital, Zagreb, but the party is just too
good to leave out. If the capital of the country calls, you
answer. Welcome to Zagreb Calling with the event of the
season and a grand gig by the large electronic duo Faithless on Jul 14th. So if you are planning to go deeper into
the continent, plan your visit to coincide with this bomb.
ISTRIA & KVARNER
We move on to the Istria and Kvarner region and settle in
Pula. There’s actually not much in the way of settling, as
Pula will be bursting with life with its own festival madSummer 2015

23

Culture & Events
ness. Seasplash festival (reggae) will splash you with
sound from Jul 16th to 19th and portals to a fresher and
more enjoyable view on life will be opened during Dimensions festival from Aug 26th to 30th with world class
names from house to techno such as Four Tet Live, Ben
Klock, John Talabot, and Surgeon. Finally, September will
be greeted by bass music Outlook festival from Sept 2nd
to 6th with SBTRKT Live, Roni Size Reprazent, and Goldie.
NORTHERN DALMATIA
So we take our journey a bit more south and arrive at Zrće
beach on the Island of Pag, the most famous party destination in Croatia often dubbed The Second Ibiza.
From Jun 28th to Jul 2nd you’ll be able to enjoy The
Hideout festival and find your own shelter from the world
with names such as Duke Dumont, Jamie Jones, Nina
Kraviz, Sigma, and Loco Dice.
From Jul 25th to Aug 1st prepare your ears for seven days
of love and joy at the Loveweek festival with the sounds
of artists like Robin Schulz, Showtek, Oliver Koletzki, and
Felix Krocher. Aug 8th to Aug 15th is reserved for the 4th
edition of Barrakud festival with huge headliners such
as Maceo Plex, Sven Väth, Dennis Ferrer, and Ellen Allien,
while Aug 16th through 20th is designated for Sonus
festival, where you will be greeted by the beats of Dixon,
Jamie Jones, Marco Carola, Richie Hawtin, and Seth Troxler.
Then it’s time to move a few miles inland, where you’ll be
able to find all that was lost at the Lost Theory festival at
Deringaj, in amazing ambience near the river Otuča, dancing and swinging amongst the trees deep in the forest
from 12th to 17th of Aug with psychedelic and goa trance
DJs, live acts, and performers. A tad further south we find
ourselves in Zadar, which invites you to come and dance
in open spaces at the new Viva Riva festival on Aug 7th
and 8th. From Zadar we move on to Tisno, an enchantingly wonderful location that is one of the fastest growing
and most sought after festival destinations in Croatia. For
some mindless senseless fun Tisno opens the season with
The Garden festival. Jul 1st through the 8th is going
to be your last chance ever to visit The Garden festival at

Coffee
& Cakes
Zadar
Pulse
its final 10th edition, called “Going Out with a Bang”, with
the farewell soundtrack provided by Seth Troxler, Bonobo,
and Craig Richards, while just a day after we say goodbye
to The Garden we see its replacement. Jul 9th to Jul 13th
will be a time to notice the huge Electric Elephant in the
room when disco music will be celebrated by the likes of
A Guy Called Gerald live, Derrick Carter, and Bicep. Soon it
will be time to stop being practical and join the crowds
at Stop Making Sense festival lasting from Jul 16th to Jul
19th . For these few days this will become home for all
house, disco, techno, electro, soul, and funk lovers with
musicians such as Anja Schneider, Anthony Naples, and
The Black Madonna.
After the madness it will be time for the sleeker, sexier
sound of SuncéBeat Festival with its sultry soulful house
from Jul 22nd to 29th and the soul will be brought by
artists such as Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega, and Dimitri from
Paris. Finally Soundwave festival will be reverberating
over the water surface Aug 6th through 10th with the
sounds of Mr. Scruff, LTJ Bukem, and Slum Village.
Our last stop in the Northern Dalmatia region is Šibenik
where you will be free to lend your ear to the SuperUHO
festival from Aug 6th to Aug 8th with Einstürzende Neubauten, King Khan and The Shrines, and Rosetta.
CENTRAL DALMATIA
Central Dalmatia will blow you away with the promises
of unforgettable nights. We start at Trogir which will be
dancing under the Moondance festival flag on Aug 2nd
with greats such as Dave Clarke and Kink. Than we slide
over to Split. This is where you want to be because from
Jul 9th to 15th it’s time for the massive Ultra Europe with
global headliners like The Chemical Brothers (LIVE!!), Carl
Cox, Armin Van Buuren, Hardwell, and from Aug 6th to
Aug 8th you are invited to EDM fantasy of Split Beach
Festival with Fedde Le Grand.
Supetar at Brač will become a safe haven for the Voi`sa
festival. Artists like Breach/Ben Westbeech, Greg Wilson,
and Joey Negro play from Jul 30th to Aug 1st, and then a
little more down the longitudes is the oh so sunny island
of Hvar which welcomes you to the 3rd edition of FOR festival held from Sep 4th – 6th.
SOUTHERN DALMATIA
And finally we are off to the most southern of festivals from
which you can choose. First stop is Korkyralis on Korčula
which is an amazing five week long relaxing festival experience where you can chill on the farms and yachts nearby
and dance your heart out with Tube & Berger, Tiefschwarz,
Subb-an and Noir from Jul 25th – Aug 29th, and maybe
in the meantime slide to Velika Duba Bay near Živogošće.
For all of those who cannot help but dance under the stars
in the untouched nature, we present the Adriatic Perception festival on Aug 14th and 15th when we will be
joined by Christian Smith, Silicone Soul, and Ramon Tapia.

Viva Riva Festival - Marco Bailey

24 Zadar In Your Pocket

Dance, love, enjoy, and live!
zadar.inyourpocket.com

The Sea Organ - photo by Tim Ertl, Zadar Tourist Board Archives

We asked the locals - who live or work in
Zadar - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that
bit more interesting.
Jadranka Belevski
Documentarian at the Museum of Ancient Glass,
B.A. in Art History, B.A. in Archaeology

Jadranka: If you need an interesting souvenir, you should
visit the Museum Shop at the Museum of Ancient Glass
and buy a unique set of ancient glass replicas in combination with Wines of Punta Skala from Royal vineyards
(Kraljevski vinogradi).
ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?
Jadranka: Fresh fish, fruits and vegetables from the local
market. You should try the best ice coffee in Zadar at Donat Sladoledi!

Z​IYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Jadranka: Garden, Ledana

Sandra Bajlo

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zadar?
Jadranka: At the beautiful sandy beach in Nin, Laguna.
The best beach in the Zadar area - Bibano beach bar in
Bibinje.

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Sandra: My favorite place to drink coffee is Lloyd.

ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Jadranka: Long slow walks, lots of coffee breaks, popping
into a few museums - the Museum of Ancient Glass in Zadar, for instance.
ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend ad a souvenir from Zadar?
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Sales Counselors at HOK Insurance

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zadar?
Sandra: My favorite place to relax is at the caffe bar Brazil
on the Riva.
ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Sandra: The best way to discover the city is by walking
through the Old Town, seeing the beautiful monuments.
Activities such as swimming, walking..
Summer 2015

25

Zadar Pulse
Restaurants

Restaurants
Žaklina Radoš

Croatian

German Teacher

Bistro Gourmet Kalelarga
Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A
warning for all the carnivores- the meat dishes are to-diefor! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled
vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off
with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region.
For dessert, don't miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won't be disappointed.
QC-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@
arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com.
Open 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 160kn). PAGBXW

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Žaklina: Illy Bar by the University. For me they have the
best coffee and really great service.
The Museum of Ancient Glass

ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend as a souvenir from Zadar?
Sandra: Supernova. You can buy the liqueur Maraschino,
a unique drink from Zadar.
ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?
Sandra: The restaurants Fosa and Niko are the finest
places to have a wonderful dinner and excellent sea food.

Tamara Šoletić
Actress at the Zadar Puppet Theater
ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to drink coffee or
go out at night?
Tamara: I drink coffee at the cafes in the city center, in
Varoši, mainly at the cafe Borgo. It's a daily ritual that combines socializing with friends and enjoying a good cup of
coffee, which is very important to us locals in Zadar.

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zadar?
Žaklina: Any cafe in the streets of Zadar on Saturday
morning. I love the crowds.
ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Žaklina: Just walk around with no particular plan or knowledge of what lies behind the corner. Let the city surprise you.
ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend as a souvenir from Zadar?
Žaklina: Small souvenir shops in the alleys of Zadar offer
great crafts and handmade products. The ladies by the Cathedral do some lovely crochet work.
ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?
Žaklina: For meat lovers - lamb on spit. For fish lovers grilled sardines in olive oil, garlic and parsley.

ZIYP: Where is your favorite place to relax in Zadar?
Tamara: A place to relax is always connected with the sea,
whether that is sitting on the Sea Organ, in Foši, or a stroll
along the waterfront.
ZIYP: What is the best way to discover the city? Which
activities do you recommend?
Tamara: The best way to discover the city for me means
mingling with the local people and I would recommend
that to our guests. We Dalmatians are distinctive people.
ZIYP: Where is the most ideal place to shop? What do
you recommend as a souvenir from Zadar?
Tamara: I'm not the type of woman that likes to go shopping, but I'm still sad that the city center no longer has
anymore stores, for everything you need to go to a shopping center outside of the city. As for souvenirs, at Gradska
loža, the Festival of Souvenirs will be held soon and I hope
that our guests will find some artifacts there to take home
from Zadar and not just some plastic kitsch available (unfortunately!!!) at every turn.

Nin - Zadar Tourist Board Archives

Casa Ricov
The first steakhouse restaurant in Zadar, it's located in park
Vruljica and offers a new menu daily. Tasty succulent meat
steaks are freshly prepared, along with delicious tuna,
salmon, sea bream and blacksmith fish steaks. This place
will leave your mouth watering for more.QK-4, Oko Vrulja
4a, tel. (+385-23) 23 59 29/(+385-) 091 525 52 35. Open
10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 100kn). PAGBXW
Dva ribara
A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow
courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good
place for lunch to break up a day's sightseeing. It's a hard
life!!QC-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, info@
restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. Open 11:00
- 24:00. (45 - 130kn). PABX
Groppo
Located in the old town, the menu offers lots of pasta, grill,
seafood, and pizza which are well garnished. Vegetarians
are also well accommodated. We recommend the homemade gnocchi! Reasonably priced!QC-3, Široka ulica
22, tel. (+385-23) 77 89 81, [email protected],
www.restaurant-groppo.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (50150kn). PJA6BW
Kaštel
Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion)
in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine
and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish,
homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams.
If you want local gastronomy, look no further! Restaurant

ZIYP: Which of the local specialties do you recommend as a "must-try" for visitors?
Tamara: Our local specialties include everything that
makes up Mediterranean cuisine; fish, olive oil, fresh vegetables .... that's why we are so healthy and good-looking
hahahaha.
26 Zadar In Your Pocket

Bruschetta
The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade'
and with quality products from the local Zadar region
on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of
bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta.QC-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića
12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15, [email protected], www.
bruschetta.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 130kn).
PJAGBXW

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Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new member of the
luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.QB-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, [email protected], www.hotel-bastion.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00.
(60 - 190kn). PALGBXW
Kornat
Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of
inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this
place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black
risotto.QB-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01,
[email protected], www.restoran-kornat.com.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. (75 - 190kn). PJA6Gi
BXW
Malo misto
The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill),
lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, [email protected], www.malo-misto.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
(40 - 170kn). PAGBXW
Pet Bunara
This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring
and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli safran and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus
salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is
Summer 2015

27

Restaurants
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great. During this
summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from
slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like
queen lady fig cake. You're in for a real treat! QD-3, Stratico ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, info@petbunara.
hr, www.petbunara.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn).
PAGBC
Roko
This restaurant specializes in roasted lamb on a spit, delicious traditional dishes from the Ravni Kotari region, such
as turkey risotto, as well as fresh bread ispod peke, baked
under the bell. It doesn't get any better than this!QI-3, Put
Dikla 74, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 00. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (60
- 350kn). PALBW

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Restaurants
Konoba
Rafaelo
On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It's got a rather special
menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel
on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb,
veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.QH-3,
Obala kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. Open
10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 110kn). PALGBXW
Skoblar
Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be
the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve
up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked
under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and
foreign wines. Live music most weekends too.QD-3, Trg
Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36. Open 08:00 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). PJA6Gi
BXW
Stomorica
Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the
oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and
healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it's a beautiful
place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been
expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New
York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its
good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar
favourite for generations.QC-3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+38523) 31 59 46. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn). PNGi
BXW

Zadar - Jadera
A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales
amongst a drop of wine after a good day's catch. You
won't find any fisherman here but the surroundings will
give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it's small and intimate
and if you're after a typical home made cuisine then this is
a gem.QC-2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59,
[email protected], www.restorani-zadar.hr. Open
10:00 - 23:00. (65 - 105kn). PJAGBXW

Italian
Pašta & Svašta
This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge
painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the
walls. As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian
pasta dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, octopus salad and many more delicious options.
QPoljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-) 099 731 02 32,
[email protected]. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 120kn).
PJA6GBXW
Trattoria Canzona
A traditional pizzeria with a very respectable reputation.
The same outfit as the Zagreb restaurant of the same
name. Those who know that one will be reassured it's a
good bet.QC-3, Stomorice 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81.
Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn).
PJA6GBXW

Lamb
The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would
otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend
hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms
the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it's
much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong
herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby
Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places
to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and
around Zadar.
Sabunjar
Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb.
Take the main road to Split and you'll see it across the road
from hypermarkets Merkur and Getro.QR-3, Jadranska
99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55, [email protected].
Open 09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 90kn). PALGBXW
Tamaris
A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies,
roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide
selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO-2,
Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, [email protected], www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr. Open 10:00
- 23:00. (75 - 150kn). PALGBXW

Pet Bunara Restaurant Archives

28 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Ethnic
Shanghai House
The décor, while predictable, creates a hospitable atmosphere that is complemented by the authentic cuisine
from the land of emperors. We recommend the signature
duck dishes which have earned their flavoursome reputation and for all the right reasons. Take out is available if you
would like to dabble chopsticks whilst gazing at the sunset.QH-3, Put Dikla 70, tel. (+385-23) 33 23 10/(+385-)
099 308 30 88, [email protected]. Open
11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PAGBXW

Seafood
Foša
One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša
harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for
great fish.QD-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+38523) 31 44 21, [email protected], www.fosa.hr. Open
12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 235kn). PJAGBXW

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Summer 2015

29

Restaurants
breakfast
Croccante
When the tummy’s rumbling and you are after a topnotch breakfast to get your day going, hop on down
to Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants
and scrumptious toast. Such places for brekky are few
and far between apart from the hotels that serve their
guests.QC-3, Široka ulica 14. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (10
- 80kn).
Forum
Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This
small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good
for on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, foccacia bread and yummy bread rolls.QC-3, Madijevaca
2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (10
- 40kn). PN
Plankit
Some of us spent our school days on this beautiful terrace. The rush of the city, coffee breaks, cakes and a
wonderful choice of both salty and sweet pancakes.
The perfect choice when wishing to take a break from
sightseeing!QC-3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel.
(+385-23) 25 05 14, [email protected], www.
restorani-zadar.hr. Open 07:00 - 22:00. PAGi
BXW

Restaurants
Niko
Popularly called 'kod Erika' by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb
choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid
or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the
best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for
fish lovers.QG-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+38523) 33 78 88, [email protected], www.hotelniko.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 170kn). PALi
GW
Taverna Diklo
A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that offers good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra large portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are
highly praised. The terrace seats are snapped up quickly
so it's best to book in advance for prime positioning.
QF-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35,
[email protected]. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 350kn). PALGB

Pizza
Mamma mia
Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla,
the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort
area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick
and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia's pizza
toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of
tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and
three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty.
And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we
were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth
trying.QH-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46. Open
12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 200kn). NGBXW
Šime
A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for
superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for
great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking
and an underground garage to keep your lil' baby out of
the sun.QG-2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel.
(+385-23 ) 33 48 48, www.restaurant-sime.com. Open
12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). P6LNGBXW
Tri bunara
This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains
a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered
tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty
of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy,
it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB-3, Trg tri
bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (35 70kn). PJ6NGBXW

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30 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Budget

Vinjerac

Gricko
There is an indigenous fast food which renders the hamburger utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are little sticks
of minced meat and spices, grilled or fried, and for the
true carnivore are something like heaven. They're usually served in a bun called a lepinja, which the vendor
thoughtfully dips into hot fat before serving. QL-4, Franje
Tuđmana 54, tel. (+385-23) 30 50 87. 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00
- 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00.
(20 - 32kn). PNGBW

Konoba Pece
We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in
the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. He whips
up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal
touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the
delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb
road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge. Book
in advance.QPrilaz Drage 2, Vinjerac, tel. (+385-23) 27
50 69/(+385-) 098 33 14 03, [email protected].
hr, www.konoba-pece.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00. (75 120kn). PA6LGBXW

Hajduk
Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese filo pastry pie)
in town. We highly recommend you try it Croatian style
with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if that doesn't
grab you, they serve burgers, sandwiches, toasties and
mini pizzas too. Hajduk, by the way, means “brigand” or
“bandit”, and is also the name of the Split football team, but
don't mention that here if you like having legs.QC-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 81. Open 07:00
- 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (10 - 35kn). PNBW
Obelix
Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) and
the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it's a good
place to pick up a bite if you're drinking in Borik or on your way
home after a night out in town.QG-2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik.
Open 08:00 - 01:30. (8 - 60kn). GBXW
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pag
Boškinac
This eloquent family estate with a hotel, winery, and restaurant on the island of Pag is the perfect getaway for a
tranquil holiday. We kid you not, they pay attention to every detail. Elegant rooms, a succulent and exclusive menu
with many fresh island ingredients. The konoba (tavern)
has excellent cheese, prosciutto and sardines. Pricey but
worthy!QNovaljsko polje bb, Novalja, Pag, tel. (+38553) 66 35 00, [email protected], www.boskinac.com.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 190kn). PA6LGi
BXCW

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Summer 2015

31

Local Flavour

Local Flavour

Bistro Gourment Kalelarga Archives

The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty. Not
only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh fish on
their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad belt of
land named Ravni kotari - “the flat counties”. Here a combination of sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment
provides great conditions for growing tasty fruit and vegetables. In Zagreb's open-air markets many a stallholder
puts forth a sign proudly proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to
attract buyers with an eye for good food.
Changes wrought over the last decades mean that food
production today is nothing near what it once was. In
places like Vrana, Žegar and Islam Grčki, acres and acres
where tomatoes, cabbages and watermelons once grew lie
uncultivated. A tale we heard about Islam Grčki tells how
the inhabitants in the 1980s, after spending the summer
in the markets of Rijeka and Krk selling their wares, would
bring home their cash and throw it on the big weighing
scales to see who had brought most home.
However, a trip to Zadar's market is still a mouth-watering
experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the
city ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land
with their catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard,
you'll find citrus fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and
dried figs, home-made olive oil and cut flowers straight
from the garden.
Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar's
gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see
to the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing
sheep and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis
of some of the Zadar region's most interesting specialities.
Let's get a little bit specific. What should you look out for
if you'd like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region?
The coast
The obvious place to start. In Zadar's restaurant's you can't
miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a tomatoey
32 Zadar In Your Pocket

brudet sauce. Then there's risottos, of which crni rižot with
black squid ink may qualify as the most interesting. And
seafood prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and
parsley. Simply delicious.
Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies
and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil
and vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza
or pasta.
What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays,
definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million
different ways, such as na bijelo - with garlic, parsley, white
wine and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada beef studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and
stewed with wine and prunes. On Sundays, meat cooked
na lešo in a soup with vegetables, an all-in-one dish that
just needs a green salad to round it off. On workdays, pašta
fažol - bean stew with pasta, is a popular filler.
Lowlands, highlands and islands
In springtime the land from the water's edge to the foot
of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for asparagus. This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much
prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja.
A speciality from this region is vara - chickpeas cooked in
water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah and
sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It's the
perfect remedy when you've overdone things, purging
your blood of cholesterol and other naughties.
Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar's interior is a fiercely
carnivorous land. On the light side, you might get a turkey
(tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with
embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different
from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like
this with potatoes they're succulent and delicious.
Then there's lamb and kid goat. It's odd that goat meat
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is little eaten in much of Europe since it's almost indistinguishable from lamb except it's less greasy (and certainly
more healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is
an especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a
dish named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas
are unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or
goat. Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis.
Beef and pork don't figure much on the traditional menu.
Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati
and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with
salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia's cheese industry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Parmesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product
called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at
the beginning of the cheese-making process. It's a light
curd cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on
bread or for desserts, all the more so as it's low in fat. You'll
find it on Pag island and also made by families in the hinterland, but rarely elsewhere as it doesn't keep for long.
You probably won't find food like this in Zadar itself. To get
a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly
recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out
for a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo - a rural
smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or
head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals
each year.

Local dishes
Kaštradina
Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the
dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called
castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as
the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both
earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and
the Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian
lands. Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually
smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll
find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the
time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is
great washed down with strong local red wine
Maraschino liqueur
Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new
technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home,
a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the
best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino
liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry
is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for
eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is
great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basketwrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century,
Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.
Salt fish
In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it.
Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by evfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

ery family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has
been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people
know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingredient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.
Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very
little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but
it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of
eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe
centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays.
If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok,
keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere
else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry
and most tuna is landed here.
Samphire
At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot
a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a
little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it’s
rock samphire (Crithmum maritimum). Known locally at
motar, it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The
story goes that in the Second World War people had little
other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of
it. But it’s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side
dish with a delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled,
and has saved the life of many a sailor through history –
with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages
to prevent scurvy.

Wine
The Zadar region has an excellent microclimate for growing wine. The majority of the wine-growing areas are in
the Ravni kotari plains behind the city and in the Bukovica
uplands a little further north. There’s also smaller-scale production on the region’s islands, notably Pag. Much of the
production is still on a family scale, the products reserved
for family and friends. However, the delicate shoots of
change are visible like small tendrils on a vine: a number
of award-winning small winegrowers have been emerging
over the last few years.
The town of Benkovac was until recently best known in
commercial winegrowing terms for Rosé Benkovac. However, the winemaking conglomerate that owns the Benkovac winery has planted large amounts of French vines in
the village of Korlat and now offers pricey bottles of Syrah,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot throughout Croatia under
the Korlat brand.
Interestingly, a number of small wine growers are starting
up production nurturing indigenous grape varieties and
high-quality, sustainable production methods. One is Šime
Škaulj in Nadin. He produces the local Maraština variety, a
light, fruity wine perfect for summer drinking. He also offers
Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cuvée blend. All
his wines are certified organic, and his Cabernet Sauvignon
2010 and 2011 are Decanter magazine silver medal winners. It seems French vines are fond of the local soils.
Not far away in Smilčić, Mladen Anić also produces a fine
Maraština as well as a clutch of red wines including CrSummer 2015

33

Local Flavour

Local Flavour
become a wine
connoisser

ljenak, a heritage grape variety that is a genetic parent of
Zinfandel.
Closer to Benkovac at the tiny village of Podgrađe near
the Roman ruins of Asseria, Božo Bačić is also a certified
organic winegrower. His dessert wine, Asseria, has won numerous awards including the Decanter World Wine Awards
Silver Medal.
Another dessert wine from the Benkovac area is yellow
muscat (muškat žuti) from the MasVin plantation at Polača
(between Benkovac and Biograd). Muškat žuti is usually
grown inland, but the wine has done well here, as its summery straw and acacia nose suggests. Also certified organic,
you can pick up this company’s wine (which also includes
Crljenak, Merlot and Syrah) in the region’s supermarkets at
refreshingly reasonable prices - around 30-35 kn. Look out
also for MasVin’s award-winning olive oil.
Moving on to Pag island, Gegić is a native white that the
locals grow in quantity. The scant, limestone terrain bathed
in sunshine produces a fairly heady brew. A fabulous place
to try this and other wines is the Boškinac hotel and winery just outside Stara Novalja. The house wine is gorgeous
yet affordable, and though their bottled wines are far from
cheap (starting at 200kn) they are well worth splashing out
on (pun absolutely intended). Boškinac wines are rarely
less than 15% alcohol, but this writer spent a memorable
night at Boškinac (my wedding, no less) drinking outrageous quantities of the stuff with friends. Come morning
every single one of us was fresh as a daisy, a testament to
the extraordinary high quality of these wines.
34 Zadar In Your Pocket

Who better but a qualified sommelier Jelena to give you tip
top tips when it comes to wine.

of salting, spicing, marinating, smoking and drying pork
neck. Competition is fierce with ancestral recipes at stake
but it's all in good fun. It's a true 'dig in and savour' session.
Prestige for some, a hearty meal for others!QVišeslaov
trg, Nin.

G&J TVOJA KRV I MOJA, SVAGUŠA, NADIN
CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT
Wine that is certainly recommended, intense in flavour
bearing an aroma of plum and red berries. It is full-bodied,
maintaining beautiful mature tannins thus filling the palette with fruit and fullness. This well-balanced, complex
and powerful wine seeks accompanying foods such as
venison, lamb grilled, steak...

06.08 THURSDAY
The Festival of Salt
The Nin Salt Works ( (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today's world
as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘ala
natural', whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact.
This festival showcases various dioramas, individual plants
and animals from the area, different salt crystals and more..
QNin.

KORLAT CABERNET SAUVIGNON, BENKOVAC - STANKOVCI
Less than 20 kilometres from Zadar is the Korlat Vineyards
that produces excellent wines. Their Cabernet Sauvignon
is a very powerful complex wine, with a deep and intense
ruby ​​red colour and purple reflection. The scent on the
nose is rich in berries; dominated by blueberries, currants
and black plum. The taste is quite lush with a long finish
and ripe tannins. The impact of the barrel is very nicely integrated into the wine. This is a wine that nicely complements venison, beef, and aged cheese dishes.

10.09 TUESDAY - 15.09 TUESDAY
8th Fig Festival
To this very day, Zadar and the whole of Dalmatia is abundant in fig trees, nurtured as a part of life. And in its honour, the Fig Festival, which is held in September at the ‘Pet
bunara restaurant’. Chef Mario Arbanas prepares many
specialties made of figs and visitors can sample a variety
of dishes prepared in combination with this dazzling fruit. .
Throughout the festival, one can learn more about the fig,
from its processing to its gastro segment, as well as from
its agrarian to its artistic side. By the end of this, you’ll not
only be tasting figs but dreaming figs; you’ll never see figs
in the same light again!
Visit Fig Festival at restaurant Pet bunara, D-3, Stratico street 1, tel. 22 40 10Q. J

VINA PUNTA SKALA, KRALJEVSKI VINOGRADI, ZADAR
Pošip is a wine that densely moves in the glass and expresses its fullness through the originality of this great grape variety. The scent of herbs along with fruits such as apricots
and figs can be felt. When poured, it seems almost oily and
leaves a creamy trail on the pallet. Pošip is excellent with
chicken, duck, fish and other lighter meals in general.

The Foodie's Guide
04.07 SATURDAY
Exhibition of Pag Sheep and Cheeses
At this exhibition evaluate the quality of the cheeses from
the island Pag and meet the sheep responsible for these
renowned cheeses.
11.07 SATURDAY
A FEAST OF MUSSELS IN NOVIGRAD
Welcome to mussel paradise where you can treat yourself
with fresh juicy mussels for as long as you can handle.
Novigrad has long been known for its mussels as they
were exported to other parts of Europe after WW2. These
days, aany connoisseurs of shellfish claim that the mussels
from this area are the best in the Adriatic; delicious and
full of meat.
19.07 SUNDAY
Šokolijada
For those who prefer delicacies such as smoked ham and
bacon, this international and gastronomic event is a meaty
taste bud grenade. Not only that, it helps preserve a 17th
century tradition from Nin which is all about the process
zadar.inyourpocket.com

Tips for Hungry
Travellers
Baškotin
A sheer rarity as you head to the Benedictine convent of
St. Margarita on Pag. Tis here that for centuries they've
been making baškotin, a kind of hard sweet toast which
is the signature special monastery recipe. At 60kn per kilogramme, we'll toast to that!
Benkovačka vara
Looking for some original food from the Zadar region,
then why not try some Benkovac vara during the summer
months. It is chickpeas cooked in water with kidney beans
and sweet corn, very simple and served with olive oil. One
of the places to find it is at the Pet bunara in Zadar.
Cheese to please!
Devotees to cheese on the fine pallet ought to try cheese
made with sage, or rosemary immortelle as well as cheese
aged in walnut leaves. The Magriž Cheese Factory is family
run in Kornić, on the island of Krk, and can be found on
Ulica 17. travnja 13, where they sell their products at their
very doorstep.
Have you ever eaten dormice?
Roman emperors ate dormice (or puh in Croatian) which
were popular appetisers in their day. The tradition continfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

ues in the tiny village of Dol, on the island of Brač. Konoba
Toni is a tavern where they prepare dormice on a spit or if
you find yourself in Fužine, Gorski Kotar around September, dormice goulash is the thumbs up.
If in the village Vid…
A revelation in the Neretva County is the audaciously
spiced fish stew made of frogs and eels which you can find
at the restaurant named Mate and Đuđe, in Vid. Bring the
mints!
Povitica Cheesecake
A typical cheesecake cake from the Vrbnik region weighing 2kg whole! Here it is all in the process with the freshest
local ingredients used which includes sheep milk cheese
from the Krk Island. This one of a kind dessert can be found
at the restaurant called ‘Nada' (Vrbnik).
Rab or Lošinj
If you are staying on the islands of Rab or Lošinj then why
not try their ala natural delicacy - dried octopus. You can
even have it with scrambled eggs for breakfast, kid you not!
Show us some mussels
Ok seafood lovers, particularly those who love mussels!
Drive to a place called Poljica, near Marina (the road to
Split) and you can buy mussels per kg in shell farms, and
then roast them on the grill which is finger lickn good!
The island of Ist, ist good!
Learn why Italian boaters often stop at the island of Ist for
an authentic special called majolino!
Try Pipi
When in Split or parts of Dalmatia, look for the gassy fresh
drink Pipi, a bubbly drink that you can only find in these
parts and is mega popular. It is a fuse between Fanta and
Miranda but original to Split. Lots of cafes sell it so bug the
waiters and request a Pipi, it is perfect on a blistering hot
summer day!
Vis or Komiža bread?
A dilemma that's been debated for centuries is best to be
solved on the island of Vis.
What’s so salty…?
When in Nin, head to the Nin Salt Works which produce
salt that naturally has a higher concentration of iodine because of special algae that grows in the vicinity of the Nin
Bay. On the topic, when given bread with a few grains of
salt in Croatia, it is a symbol of sincere welcome. Best you
bread up!
What to have for breakfast…
Pujina with sugar of course! Pujina is the whey that is left after cheese production. It differs from standard cheese with
its ingredients of fat and protein, and is consumed fresh. Ask
around the islands of Pag or Brač on where to buy fresh pujina
for a hearty breakfast.
Summer 2015

35

Coffee & Cakes

Nightlife
Iva
Good ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg.QC-3,
Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Open 07:00 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. PNGBW

Coffee
Branimir
A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of conversation and
a prime viewing position of the handsome footbridge and
the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk.QD-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+385-23) 30 56 84. Open 07:00 - 24:00,
Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PAGBXW
Callegro
The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city.
We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that
provide strong competition to such remarks, but what
Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at
the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick
back and watch other people strolling through the famous
street Kalelarga!QB-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.
com. Open 07:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 01:30. PNGi
BXW
Art Kalelarga
What better way to put the icing on the cake of your stay
than by gobbling down some amazing cake combinations. From authentic zadar maraška to fig and cheesecakes that spell art deco meets sweeeettt! Ohh, and if
you are out and about this time of year, make sure you
try the amazing asparagus cake.QC-3, Majke Margarite
3, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@arthotel-kalelarga.
com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00.
PAGBXW
Danica
A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular
because of good homemade cakes from the local factory
in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.QC-3, Široka
ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16. Open 07:00 - 24:00.
PAGB
Donat
Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in
town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure.QB-3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29, info@
donatice.hr, www.donatice.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00.
PNGBW
Eva Il Gelato Originale
The temperature suddenly drops with organic ice-cream
made according to traditional recipes and covered with
icycles to maintain quality of the highest order. On top
of that, prices are quoted by cornets and not scoops.
Beat the heat wave and choose your flave!QC-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 8, tel. (+385-23) 25 19 09. Open 10:00
- 24:00. PAGBXW
36 Zadar In Your Pocket

Forum
A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is
blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus', the most
famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QB-3, Široka ulica 18. Open 07:00 - 01:00.
PAGBXW
Guam
Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by
the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go
down.QF-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Open 08:00 - 01:00.
PNBXW
Illy Concept Bar
New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new
shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out
atmosphere. Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to
relax and have a conversation.QD-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4.
Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PBXW
Lovre
The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel,
the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and
experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs
and DJ performances.QC-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23)
21 26 78. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P6NGBXW
Riva
A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near the Forum.
QB-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. (+385-23) 25
14 62. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBX
zadar.inyourpocket.com

Clubs
Maraschino
Venture out in the morning or afternoon and it's a café,
head on down late evening and it transforms into a night
club. With live bands and various DJs performing, you have
every excuse to sip cocktails and party.QE-2, Obala kneza
Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 93, maraschinobar@
gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 06:00. PA6GBW
Podroom
Podroom (meaning basement in English) is a night club
and place for party goers who wish to live and let live!
Though open only on weekends with DJs as hosts, it can
receive up to 400 guests and has special booths for a
dozen people max… plus a VIP room. So come and join
in the action!QM-5, Marka Marulića bb, tel. (+385-) 099
420 82 02, [email protected]. Open 24:00 - 06:00.
PJAEGW

Cocktail bars
Beach & Cocktail Bar Bamboo
This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach and is
a great spot to sit back, relax and take in the wonderful
sights of the sea, local island and people. Open all day
long, you can enjoy a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk.
Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip
on your morning coffee. In the afternoon, grab a drink
with some friends and stretch out on a lounge chair under
one of the numerous canopies made of palm branches.
While in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent
sunset, before dressing up and coming out for a cocktail
at night.QG-5, Obala kneza Domagoja bb. Open 07:00
- 01:30. N
Mango Day & Night Club
This brightly-coloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo,
a little west of Zadar's centre and opposite the Borik
complex. It's a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly
mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails,
especially at sundown.QF-3, Krešimirova obala 12,
Diklo, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69. Open 08:00 - 04:00.
P6LNBXW

Hangin' out
Arsenal
Originally used as a naval service center in the 18th century, the arsenal now stockpiles history, culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure offers food, drink,
music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar's 3000 year history, life today, and a peek into the future. You can visit one
of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts multiple shows
throughout the year.QB-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23)
25 38 21/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, [email protected],
www.arsenalzadar.com. Open for organized concerts
and special events, so it's best to keep track via the
web. PTJAEBKW
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Backstage Bar
Opened in April 2015, BackStage is another new venue for
entertainment in the city of Zadar and in particularly for
all lovers of the 1950s and ‘60s. Reinvigorating the atmosphere of New Orleans or even the spirit of Frank Sinatra
with the swingy jazzy sound is what it’s all about! Lots of
Croatian artists and bands are locked in for summer gigs,
so stay tuned for more news!QM-3, Andrije Hebranga 9, [email protected]. Open 06:00 - 24:00.
PT6ENGBXW
Borgo
A small bar where locals tend to congregate and get
merry.QC-3, Varoška 2. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P6Ni
BXW
Cafe Gallery Gina
Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery
and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an
atmospheric stone street.QC-3, Varoška 2, dario.longin@
gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 01:00. PJA6Gi
BXW
Dolce Vita
Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce
vita, i.e. the trendy crowd.QC-4, Matice Dalmatinske
6, [email protected]. Open 09:00 14:00, 18:00 - 01:30. PJ6NBXW
Famous Bar
The latest new kid on the block in Zadar is the ‘Famous'
beach bar and grill which is getting the thumbs up from
locals. Open from morning till nigh, ‘Famous' is a beach
bar, pub, restaurant and night club, all in one. It sits along
the Borik Beach and has a Caribbean feel and design to it
with a large terrace and sun loungers also. Beer, who said
beer? Choose from over 200 types of beer from across
the globe and an amazing range of wines, cocktails and
other beverages, as well as a wide selection of different
meals.QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 63 62
23/(+385-) 092 288 33 10, [email protected], www.
famous.adria-bars.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:30. A6Li
GBXW
Hitch bar
Wanna dance till you drop, spruce on in to this popular
night club with somewhat of a modern and minimalistic interior. Keep an eye on this summer's entertainment
guide with theme nights, international DJs, and concerts
by Croatian and international artists.QKolovare bb,
[email protected], www.hitch-bar.com. Open
08:00 - 06:00. PA6BW
Kult
Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.QC-3, Stomorica 6a.
Open 07:30 - 02:00. PJ6BXW
Summer 2015

37

Nightlife

Nightlife

La Bodega Zadar
Conveniently located in the heart of the Old City, this is a
great spot for drinking some superb wine. This chic and
trendy wine bar at night also offers a breakfast and brunch
menu for the early birds to enjoy the sights and sounds
of the most popular street, Kalelarga, by day.QKalelarga Široka ulica, tel. (+385-) 095 456 45 56, labodega2014@
gmail.com, labodega.hr.

Toni
On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one
of the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches
at Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view
of the attractive little church, St Michael's, opposite.QC3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. Open 07:00 01:30. P6NBXW

LLoyd
One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd.
After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by
St Anastasia's cathedral.QB-3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+38523) 25 08 51. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBXW

Vinyl bar
With its cool vibe, great music and pleasant ambience, this bar
is an excellent place to sit and relax whilst polishing off a beer
or sipping on coffee throughout the day. And when day turns
to night, the bar transforms into a club where the tempo rises
till the late hours.QObala Kneza Trpimira 4, tel. (+385-) 099
670 04 90. Open 07:00 - 01:30. P6BXW

Lotus
A relaxed, alternative vibe, unless you consider young people straining desperately to be different a negation of the
term “relaxed”. The music confidently straddles rock and
punk genres.QC-4, Stomorica 7. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 01:30. Closed Sun. PJ6NBXW
Q Bar
A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not
visit one of the city's pubs located at the very end of the
Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious
with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and
marina!QB-2, Liburnska obala 6. Open 07:00 - 06:00.
PNGBXW
Rio Bar
Walking distance from the town's famous Sea Organ, this
is one of the oldest and most famous bars in Zadar. The
newly refurbished ‘Rio Bar' is truly unique as its main focus is on the 70s era; the sounds of funk, soul and disco
echo inside its walls both on weekdays and weekends.
The bar's slogan; ‘Where the funky generation meets'
probably describes it well since it has been a popular
meeting place since the late 1980s. So come and feel
funky any time!QL-6, Putevac 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199
73 60, [email protected]. Open 08:00 - 01:00.
PTJNGBW
Sea organ (Morske orgulje)
Read all about Zadar's sea organ - the only one in the
world - in “What to see”, then head, equipped with your
insider knowledge, to impress the chaps or chapesses that
gather there by evening. It's a nice place to lounge whilst
listening to the sounds produced by the waves, and it's a
special experience at sunset.QA-4, Riva.

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38 Zadar In Your Pocket

Yachting Bar
A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great
selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordiallly named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish.
It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts. and
all the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger satisfaction.QG-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, Borik,
tel. (+385-) 095 539 53 91. Open 07:00 - 05:00. PNi
BXW
Zodiak
A tiny bar with a few seats in an equally tiny street, and
a not-so-tiny crowd that gathers for the music that veers
eclectically between grunge and drum'n'bass.QD-4,
Šimuna Ljubavca 2. Open 08:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:30. PNBXW

Lounge bars
Ledana Lounge bar
Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head
to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is 'icy' in our
lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a lumious
icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the
hot sun. Choose to chill on one of three terraces where
you can indulge in some live music and concerts.QD/E-3,
Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 095 396 39
96/(+385-) 098 63 07 60, [email protected], www.ledana.
hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00. PA6BXW
The Garden
Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this
spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the
coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly
minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it's a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of
chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub,
latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB-2, Bedemi
zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, info@
thegardenzadar.com, www.watchthegardengrow.eu.
Open 10:30 - 01:30. JA6UBXW
zadar.inyourpocket.com

Maraschino - photo by Iva Perinčić

Out of town
Aquarius
If you're looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense,
head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and
crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has
a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, homemade ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing
by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool off in the
bar area in a paddling pool. Quality.QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-53) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199
78 99, [email protected], www.aquarius.hr/zrce. Open
00:00 - 24:00. A6LBKCW
Beach Bar Kalypso
A beach bar with sports (volleyball, darts, badminton),
games and entertainment for young and old, fast food,
cocktails and internet access. The late bar is pumping 'til
who knows - and who cares - when! Open 'til lateQZrće
beach, Novalja, Pag island, [email protected].
Open 08:00 - 06:00. A6LBCW
Lavender Bed Bar
Set in a beautiful garden overlooking the sea at the Hotel
Adriatic. Bougainvillea blooms around you, and a relaxfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

ing ambience is created by textile canopies and chillout
music. As the name suggests, you can sip your cocktail
as you lounge, godlike, on a comfortable cushioned bed.
QTina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m (Hotel Adriatic), sales@
ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. Open
08:00 - 24:00. PA6LBXW
Papaya
Another popular outfit from Zagreb bring you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant areas are
decked out in exotic style, there are swimming pools, a
water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music and
foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident
DJs and international guests playing varied music styles.
QZrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091 462
92 98, [email protected], www.papaya.com.hr.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, 22:00 - 06:00. AUBXCW
Saturnus
A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows at weekends.QZaton Holiday
Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, [email protected],
www.zaton.hr. Open , Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 22:00 - 04:00.
PLNGBXW
Summer 2015

39

Sightseeing
Chapter 13

Sightseeing
rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving
and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household
objects.QC-3, Narodni trg. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20kn.
City Walls (Gradski bedemi)
Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of
Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant
that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there
were even more fortifications than there are now, but
what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and
promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside
doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see
huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage
facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is
a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point
over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the
bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of
Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D- 2.

Rector’s Palace - National Museum Zadar Archives

Essential Zadar
City Forum (Forum)
The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as
documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on
the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a
temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one
side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people
were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away
and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum
also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers
and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade
where shops and workshops once stood. The site was
only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently
assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely
cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the
most beautiful things about these remains is the way that
they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid
you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to
sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of
the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices
that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.
QB-3.
City Gates (Gradska vrata)
The city walls have had several entrances knocked
through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history.
Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as
the vital link between the town within the walls and the
sea outside them.
The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s
considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian
40 Zadar In Your Pocket

rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with
a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side
arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as
St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse,
and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic
of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive,
with a surrounding moat.
Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also
known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity
to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate
the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto.
Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance
Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70
years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the
Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth
and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the
Three Wells Square with the harbour area.QD-2.
City Lodge (Gradska loža)
Built by the same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and
library. With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events
such as the international photography triennial “Man and
the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art
“The Blue Salon”.QD-3, Narodni trg. Open 09:00 - 22:00.
Admission 20kn. J
City Sentinel (Gradska straža)
Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance
style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding
stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later
additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic
Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the
zadar.inyourpocket.com

St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv.
Stošije)
An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with
many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can
climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating
for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga.
Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes,
and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth
a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone
ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately
carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry.
QB-3, Trg svete Stošije. J
St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata)
Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque
St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an
image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape
is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was
founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church
of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred
years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music,
also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB-3,
Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Jun/Sep
open 09:00 - 21:00. Jul - Aug open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20kn. J
The Riva
“Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually
a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns.
When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the
pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninfacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

sula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here
was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to
keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the
administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began.
As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of
Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed
the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns,
flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University
building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings
or even to have a dip by day.QA/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra
Krešimira IV.

Churches
Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva
Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja))
In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential
Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health,
one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old
neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site
of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous
painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now
in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver
and Gold of the City of Zadar ).QA-3, Braće Bilišić 1.
Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla”
Stomorica)
The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th
Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the
northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s.
The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture)
and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space
give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.QC-4, Mihovila
Pavlinovića 12.
St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv.
Krševana)
A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple,
while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central
one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly
simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was
built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In
1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints
were erected on the altar.QC-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra
III 2.
St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika)
This former church building has had an interesting past.
Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in Croatia there
(1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished
the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks,
and shut down the university. The church has recently
Summer 2015

41

Sightseeing
been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is
now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre.QD-3, Špire Brusine 13.
St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv.
Franje Asiškog)
Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic
church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and
Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks. The church was the venue for the signing of the
Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended
centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the
protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of
Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in
a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass
at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration
works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries
was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass
in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.
QA/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. Open
09:00 - 18:00.
St Laurence’s Church (Crkva sv. Lovre)
The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th century)
are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached through
the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It’s small and
simple, but architecturally rich.QC-3, Široka ulica 2.

Sightseeing
St Mary’s Church (Crkva sv. Marije)
Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, and belonging to a closed order of Benedictine nuns, the church was
fundamentally rebuilt during the 16th century in the Renaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect with its
rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior with remnants of early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of
Zadar ), and a beautiful cloistered garden only visible from
the museum’s interior. As well as being the guardians of
the city’s treasures, the nuns are extremely skilled at fine
mending and do it for free. Bless!QC-3, Trg opatice Čike 1.
St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila)
On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica
is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s,
once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal
shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to
in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century
painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael
on the high altar.QD-3, Špire Brusine 4.
St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna)
East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most
popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century,
it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and
some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing
in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside,
and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s
highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).QD-3, Trg
Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05.

Religious collection
Church Collections from the Church of
St Elijah the Prophet
A collection of church art treasure dating between the
15h and 19th century containing 30 icons, liturgical items,
crucifixes, holy books, manuscripts, church clothing and
an interesting collection of antimins printed on a canvas
with an etching technique.QB-3, Trg S. Jankovića 3, tel.
(+385-23) 25 10 14. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.
Admission 10kn.

Silver & Gold of the City of Zadar - Zadar Tourist Boards Archives

42 Zadar In Your Pocket

Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar
(Zlato i srebro Zadra)
If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and
Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St
Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end
of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods
of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold
and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident
in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millenzadar.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Summer 2015

43

Sightseeing

Sightseeing
Palace Grisogono - Vovo (Palača
Grisogono - Vovo)
Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica
don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor
originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a
combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the
courtyard is well worth a look.QD-3.
Rector’s Palace (Kneževa palača)
Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the Regency
complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date back to
the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example of
Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction after damage in the 1990s war.QD-3, Poljana Šime
Budinića.

Landmarks
Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara)
During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city
withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking
water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the
Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby
bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park
serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.
QD-3, Trg 5 bunara.
St Francis Cloister - photo by Stjepan Felber

nium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection
includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them
(e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and
vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The
collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute
non-believer awestruck. On the ground floor there is also
a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and
examples of Romanesque masonry.QB-3, Trg opatice
Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/(+385-23) 25 48 20. Open
10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.
Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka
sv. Šime)
In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on
the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze
angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife
of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the
finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and
inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the
saint’s life and the city’s history. Locals say that a merchant
who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy
Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter
here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried,
but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find
something interesting in his documents. They found an
44 Zadar In Your Pocket

inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and
asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not
yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave,
visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered
in Zadar ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be
viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public
on his patron day, October the 8th. Mass: 08:00, Sun 08:30
and 10:00.QD-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21
17 05. Open May - October 08:30 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.

Palaces
Deputy’s Palace (Providurova palača)
Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central
Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building
adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department of the National Musem.QD-3, Medulićeva 2. Open
10:00 - 22:00. Admission 20kn. J
Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i Petrizio)
Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive Prodana are two
beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation
of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th
centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies.QD/C -3.
zadar.inyourpocket.com

Greeting to the Sun
Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in
Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola
Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ
project. In making these two projects possible, musician
Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water
hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant
contributions.QA-3..

only one inscription, that of a local monk named Juraj and
dates between 750 and 850 AD, a rare archaeological treat.
QD-3.
The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje)
Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique:
the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. It’s
an art installation designed to let people enjoy the point
where urban space meets the sea on Zadar’s new pier for
cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect
for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with
openings on the quayside above. The movement of the
sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size and
velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit and
listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous
sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving to be
an extremely popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing
new life to a new part of the city.QA-4, Obala kralja Petra
Krešimira IV.

Museums
Archeological Museum
(Arheološki muzej)
On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the
Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s
development from Prehistoric times through to the first
Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes
sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the
second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry
and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece
and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from
the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include
weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosi-

The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula)
A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the
Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It
gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian
city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD-3,
Trg pet bunara.
The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument
(Gradsko groblje)
Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the
thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned
some of the highest quality stonework is on display at
these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and
to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not
all that morbid.QR-3.
The Petar Zoranić Square
Located between the Five Wells Square, St Simon’s Church
and the Queen Jelena Park, this square is unique as you
can view archaeological sites under glass. Amongst them
is a stone sarcophagus containing four skeletons but with
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Archeological Museum Archives

Summer 2015

45

Sightseeing
acs and art created in far-flung parts of the Roman Empire.
The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful.
Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the
Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits
from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia
in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare
artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor
(early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits
from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture
from churches which did not survive the ages.
From the second half of June, the Archeological Museum in Zadar will display ancient Rome in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe
life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part
of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia).QC-3, Trg opatice Čike 1,
tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, [email protected], www.amzd.
hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00.
Admission 30 kn. J
National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar)
The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural
insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History, Ethnography, or the Art Gallery with its impressive collections

Archeological Treasury
and exhibitions. The City Lodge hosts a number of current
exhibitions also, while the 13th century Rector’s palace is
home to the ‘Cages’ exhibit as well as a maritime collection. In addition to all of this, the National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the regional Ethnographic
collection Veli Iž and the regional Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be purchased separately for
each aspect of the museum.QC-2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 20kn. J
The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej
antičkog stakla)
The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s
housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has
some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.
The museum contains one of the premium collections
of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of
goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites
across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels
used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and
essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate
Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.
Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware
on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the
city.QD-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23)
36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open
09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Parks

Photo / Autor
National
Museum Archives

Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj
kraljice Jelene-Madijevka)
Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest – that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka
(Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells
Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz
Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and
admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in
Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object
was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful
for.QD/E-3.
Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira
Nazora)
Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian
writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It
was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin
Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).
Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of
Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused
to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and
an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three
years after it was completed, and the park was named after him – against his wishes.QE-3.

The Museum of Ancient Glass

46 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Croatian archeological
destinations that should
not be missed
by Jonathan Bousfield
Visitors to Croatia are keenly aware that it is a country of
great heritage, with significant lumps of past civilizations
lying around in its major cities. Pula’s amphitheatre, Split’s
Roman palace, Trogir’s cathedral and Dubrovnik’s walls are
just four of the most obvious examples. What is perhaps
less well known is the sheer multitude of archeological
sites in the country, and the significant number of past cultures that have been discovered thanks to digs on Croatian
soil. Sites such as Vela Spila in Korčula or Vučedol near Vukovar have greatly added to our knowledge of European
prehistory; Vinkovci is considered to be one of the oldest
continually-settled towns on the continent. What follows
is a list of archeological destinations that are both significant places of discovery and also rewarding places to visit.
No list is ever complete – very often one historical site will
lead you on to the discovery of an equally interesting one
somewhere else – but hopefully it will provide a spur to
further exploration.

Zagreb and inland
Croatia
Krapina
The Zagorje market town of Krapina north of Zagreb has
been closely associated with Neanderthals ever since Dragutin Gorjanović Krambeger first trowelled up their bones
in 1899. These original finds are so unique that they are
permanently locked up in a secure vault in Zagreb, but
this doesn’t mean that you should Krapina Neanderthal
Museum a miss. On the contrary, it’s arguably the finest
scientific-historic day out that Croatia has to offer; a stateof-the-art museum that deploys film shows, multimedia
displays and supremely lifelike Neanderthal waxworks to
tell the story – not just of the Neanderthals themselves –
but of human evolution in general.
Although Neanderthals became extinct about 40,000
years ago, recent research has revealed that they lived
alongside Homo sapiens for a long time and interbred
with them too; which means that all of us probably still
carry the odd thread of Neanderthal DNA.
Vukovar
One of the most iconic objects in the Croatian cultural
canon is the so-called Vučedol Dove, a 3000-year-old,
three-legged ceramic vessel currently displayed at Zagreb’s Archeological Museum. The Dove was unearthed
at the riverside locality of Vučedol, just downstream from
Vukovar, a major centre of Eneolithic archeological discovery that has given its name to the Vučedol Culture – a
copper-smelting civilization that stretched from the Adrifacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

atic to the Pannonian Plain. This summer will finally see the
long-awaited opening of the Museum of Vučedol Culture
(www.turizamvukovar.hr), which will attempt to bring
these European ancestors to life with recreations of their
dwellings, audiovisual displays and a wealth of artefacts.
Andautonia
So near to Zagreb and yet so frequently overlooked, the
Andautonija Archeological Park (www.andautonia.com)
displays the excavated remains of a Roman-era town in
the middle of the village of Ščitarjevo, 20km southeast
of the capital. Although lacking in the drama of amphitheatres or well-preserved temples, everything else you
would expect from a Roman town is here, including
remnants of shopping streets, bathhouse complexes and
scraps of mosaic. The Archeological Museum in Zagreb
organizes a string of summer events at the park which are
aimed at families and children, with displays of ancient
crafts, a change to sample Roman-era recipes, and a lot of
dressing up in togas.
Vinkovci
The eastern Croatian town of Vinkovci has been claimed
to be the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe,
although similar things have been said about Plovdiv in
Bulgaria, so it’s always worth treating these headlinegrabbing statements with a pinch of salt. What’s known is
that it played host to a distinctive Neolithic group belonging to the so-called Starčevo Culture from at least before
6000BC. The inhabitants lived in metre-deep dug-outs
covered with awnings, and heated themselves with ceramic ovens. You can see the evidence in Vinkovci Museum, which includes a recreation of one of the dwellings.
Just outside Vinkovci in the village of Sopot, a dig investigating a quite separate hut-dwelling culture dating back
to around 5000BC is now the location of the Sopot Archeological Park, where a handful of dwellings has been
reconstructed.

Zadar region
Asseria
Occupying a ridge overlooking the fertile fields of the
Ravni kotari, Asseria was inhabited from bronze age times,
becoming an important administrative and trading centre
under the Liburnians and the Romans before being abandoned some time during the Avar and Slav migrations.
It’s a compelling site, surrounded by extensive defensive
walls, with a ruined medieval church occupying what used
to be the forum. Located near Podgrađe, 5km from Benkovac, Asseria is earmarked for future tourist development,
with the construction of a visitors’ centre and a ‘dormitorium’ inspired by Roman-era residential quarters.
A lot of artefacts uncovered in Asseria are on display in the
Zadar Archeological Museum (amzd.hr), particularly the pinecone shaped gravestones known as cippi, a form typical of the
area inhabited by the LIburnians. The first floor of the Archeological Museum, newly reopened after extensive renovation,
is the place to learn more about Roman-era northern Dalmatia
Summer 2015

47

Archeological Treasury
.

Šibenik region
Burnum
North of Šibenik, just outside western boundary of the
Krka National Park, the road from Kistanje to Knin passes
the site of Burnum (www.npkrka.hr/stranice/burnumamphitheatre-and-archaeological-collection-burnum/21/
en.html), the 1st-century Roman military camp that is
thought to have accommodated two entire legions.
What’s left of the site is dramatic indeed, its pale stones
emerging from the arid, maquis-covered karst. On the
western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two
arches of the former military command post.
Many of the finds from Burnum, together with an attractive interpretative display, can be admired at Puljane, a National Park-operated visitors’ centre located on a plateau
high above the Krka gorge.

Split region
Salona
Arguably the grandest of Croatia’s ancient cities is Salona, former capital of Roman dalmatia and reckoned to
be the fourth largest city in the empire at its height, and
now poking up unassumingly from the fields that stretch
west of Solin, just inland from Split. Salona has been intensively excavated at several times over the last 125 years,
most notably by Don Frane Bulić (1846-1934), the doyen of
Croatian archeology who is buried in a Late Roman-style
sarcophagus at the entrance to the site. However 90% of
Salona remains untouched by archeologists, hidden beneath privately-owned vegetable plots and olive groves.
It’s still a pretty amazing place, however, with the remains
of a 17,000-seater amphitheatre, plenty of exposed city
walls and gates, and one of the biggest collections of
early-Christian basilicas ever excavated. Standing near the
centre of the site is the Tusculum, a house built by Bulić
to serve as a base for excavations and a venue for lavish
dinners based on Roman feasts – Bulić himself turned up
in a toga. Most of the things unearthed at Salona are on
display at the Split Archeological Museum (www.mdc.hr/
split-arheoloski/hr/index.html), whose outdoor lapidarium contains one of the best collections of stone-carved
sarcophagi anywhere in Europe.
Stari Grad
Riding a bike across the fertile plain between Stari Grad
and Jelsa on the island of Hvar you might be forgiven for
thinking that the local vineyards, olive plantations and
dry-stone walls represent a typical Adriatic landscape of
great beauty but not necessarily any great significance. In
fact the pattern of field divisions - and many of the stones
that make up the partitions - date back to the fourth century BC, when Stari Grad was colonized by Greeks from
Vis. Known in Greek as the Hora, this intensively farmed
plain has changed little in the intervening centuries, and
was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2008
48 Zadar In Your Pocket

Archeological Treasury
in recognition of its historical importance. Remains of a
Greek tower have been found on Maslinovik hill, and the
remnants of Roman-era country villas are scattered across
the plain. You might not spot any of these as you pass, but
the timeless landscape of agricultural toil is enough to give
you a strong impression of Mediterranean culture and its
centuries-long continuity.

Dubrovnik region
Narona
Surrounded by the reeds and waterways of the Neretva
Delta, the Narona Archeological Museum (www.a-mnarona.hr) just west of Metković is an outstanding example of how to display a historically significant archeological site while at the same time making it an entertaining
place to bring the family. Key to its success is the building,
a grey shell built right on top of an excavations sit that can
be viewed through a glass floor. Metal stairways lead to
upper levels of the museum where display cases contain
coins and ceramics, and eventually lead out onto the museum’s roof, which offers excellent views of the surrounding landscape. Narona was an important trading post on
the Roman road from Dalmatia into the Balkan interior. A
temple complex thought to have honoured the Emperor
Augustus is very much the museum’s centerpiece: Augustus and his household are represented by a group of
fourteen statues, although all of them are now headless
making identification somewhat difficult. One of the missing heads, thought to represent Augustus’s wife Livia, was
purchased from locals by British archeologist Arthur Evans
in the 1870s, and can currently be seen in the Ashmolean
Museum in Oxford.
Vela Spila, Vela Luka
Once you get past the Neanderthals of Krapina, the oldest
inhabitant of Croatia so far excavated is probably ‘Stanko’,
the 9000-year-old skeleton pulled out of an archeological trench in Vela Spila (www.velaspila.hr), a partially-collapsed cave on the hillside just above the Korčulan port
of Vela Luka. The site is of huge importance to students of
Mediterranean prehistory, having played host to successive human cultures from Stanko’s time onwards. The recent discovery of 17,500-year-old ceramic objects thought
to represent cult figures and animals sent waves of excitement through the global archeological community – although it will take some time before these extraordinarily
early ceramics are fully evaluated and put on display. The
cave itself doesn’t hold an archeological display as such,
but it’s a wonderfully evocative spot in which to ponder
the lifestyles of your distant ancestors. Many of the older
finds from Vela Spila are on show at the Vela Luka Cultural
Centre (www.czkvl.hr).

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Summer 2015

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Zadar Surroundings

Zadar Surroundings
North of Zadar
Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of
Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes
of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.
Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic
gems have their very own story to tell.

Nin
The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering
three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians
who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained
control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants
and other settlers to the area.
The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist
places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of
picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings.
The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located
on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can
enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the
blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates
are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls
and the many valuable and historical monuments.
Some of the archeological highlights include two original
and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica',
(11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the har-

Solana Nin - Nin Tourist Board Archives

50 Zadar In Your Pocket

bour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st
century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of
Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy
Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest
cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as
well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.
The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their
long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments,
holiday villas and small idyllic camps.
A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the
‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid' which has been used for medical
purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing
mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical
and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in
warm sea water. We recommend that you visit:
Park Solana Nin, Ilirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47
64. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 35kn.
Dar Mar Donkey Farm, Poljica 2a, Žerava tel. (+38523) 39 01 23, 098 180 51 71.
Nin Tourist Board
QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+38523) 26 42 80, [email protected], www.nin.hr. Open
08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Zaton
This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for
many visitors and is located between the two historic cities
of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). As summer nears, Zaton
springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants
of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the
Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman
period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop
towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks had
withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton's landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas
Church (11th century), which is situated on a small little hill
in the middle of a field. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower
was built as a defense structure against potential invaders.
The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the
tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in
1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to
defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton
is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built
in 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of
the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint
Andrew is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various
changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In
addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere
to stay can find something to suit everyone's taste and
budget. Zaton is filled with private accommodation spots,
zadar.inyourpocket.com

well equipped camps and apartment hotels. The Zaton
Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which is located
in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by
beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful vacation whilst also making most
of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities.
Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km
stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset,
crystal clear waters with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton
is your answer to that unforgettable dream getaway.
Zaton Holiday Resort
QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80,
[email protected], www.zaton.hr.
Zaton Tourist Board
QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54
61, [email protected], www.zaton-zd.hr. Open 07:00 21:00.

Novigrad
Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer),
a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same
name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and
before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot.
Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad
has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

fes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor.
Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has
been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars
(1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty,
Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there.
During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important
point of Venice's defense against the Turks, who occupied
the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the
town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the
more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is
another spectacular view of the modern day town and the
sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails.
The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of
some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town.
Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10
meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle.

Paklenica National Park
The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within
the Velebit mountain range. Two streams, the Velika and
Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The
scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due
to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include
the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar,
Summer 2015

51

Zadar Surroundings
brown bears, wolves and lynx.
The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the
park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the
Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are
many more demanding routes. The park administration
publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation
is available - reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or
e-mail: [email protected]. There is also a campsite
with a beach (prices are on www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad,
the town at the park's entrance, has excellent pebble
beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian
specialities.
Paklenica National Park
QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-23)
36 92 02/(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@paklenica.
hr, www.paklenica.hr. Open 06:30 - 20:30. Ticket 30 150kn.

South of Zadar
South of Zadar and following the coastal road you will find
yourself in Biograd and municipalities like Pakoštane, where
extends several kilometres of coastline under the Vrana lake
in its present lively and romantic Riviera.

Biograd
The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important
political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.
Croatia's crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic - travelling throughout their territories between their
power bases - often smaller towns, since larger cities such
as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd
was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most
important moments in Biograd's history was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first
time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined
under a single crowned head - this time, by treaty.
You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd's pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date
925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true
Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It
was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single
Croatian state and built the country into a military power
rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was
one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians
attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque
Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St
Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower,
a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside.
Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which
has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and
presents a fascinating picture of the town's colourful and
turbulent past. It's at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20,
tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzej-biograd.com.
Open 07:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00
52 Zadar In Your Pocket

Zadar Surroundings
- 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.
Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history
nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula
with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by
the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside
promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east of the
centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the
tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a
ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia's
best beaches, it's isolated from traffic but has a car park. You
can take part in watersports, and there's an aquagun and a
host of other amenities.
Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is
well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place
to learn to windsurf. You'll also find many opportunities
to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can
recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat
(a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena
Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the
water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine
Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As
such, it's a mecca for fishing and birdwatching.
Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint
Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd's shores. There's
an old lighthouse there and it's great for bathing. Ask your
host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati
archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman.
Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and
dare we say, Europe.
Biograd n/m Tourist Board
Information on activites, trips and maps of the area.QTrg
hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23)
38 53 82, [email protected], www.tzg-biograd.hr.
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

MANOJLOVAČKI SLAP

SKRADINSKI BUK

MILJACKA SLAP

VISOVAC

MANASTIR KRKA

BURNUM

Vransko jezero Nature Park
QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31
81, [email protected], www.vransko-jezero.
hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled
working hours refer to Park Management only; entry to
the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is
open to visitors 08:00 - 20:00 which includes weekends.
Entrance 10 - 20kn.

Islands
Don't make the mistake of missing some of these great places
in Zadar's surrounding areas. Many of them are neglected by
guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Ugljan
That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite
when you look from Zadar is St Michael's Church, an easy
hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The
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Summer 2015

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Zadar Surroundings
benkovac
There are two castles worth exploring in the town of
Benkovac, which is 28 km south of Obrovac on routes
502 and 27. There is a Benkovac exit off the Zagreb Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable town with several
restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family, Benković,
built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely restored.
It’s on a low hill on the east side of town. Benkovac has
undergone occupation by a succession of armies and
governments. The Venetians took over the town in
the 15th century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac
in 1527. They held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a
mountain tribe, took over. It became a rural county
district under the French in 1811 and the Austrians in
1847. The Serbs occupied this town as well for a time
during the 1991 - 1995 “Great Patriotic War”. The other
castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a well-preserved ruin.
Even the roof of its main tower is intact, a rarity for castle ruins. There is an excellent view of Kličevac to the
east (right) from a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on
the north bound side of the Zagreb - Split highway.
That view will entice you, but it is not possible to reach
the site from there. You need to drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on route 56. You will see a
one lane, macadam road going up to the left and
across railroad tracks. The road leads to a private homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When
the road curves sharply to the right you should turn left
and cross the cleared area towards some pine forest.
A gravel track runs along the south end of and then
into the woods. At a dip in the track take the right fork.
Follow this track (ignore others) and after about 100
meters you will head down and see the castle through
the trees. Perched on the edge of a stony ravine, it is
an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek through the
tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof. Feudal
lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end
of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River.
An extension was constructed in the 15th century.
Kličevac’s inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from
capturing it in the early 16th century. Several senior
Turkish government officials occupied the castle over
the next 150 years.
Benkovac Tourist Board
www.benkovac-bastina.net - a website with pictures
of Benkovac’s cultural and historical heritage.QAnte
Starčevića 2b, Benkovac, tel. (+385-23) 68 18 34,
[email protected], www.tz-benkovac.hr.
Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

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Zadar Surroundings
island's name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning
oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and
there's a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal
settlements - you'll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day's harvest.
Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is
a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to
see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a
number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into
their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute
walk takes you to the other side of the island where you
come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some
of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has
a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque
Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you'll find a fantastic beach formed
of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, superclean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet
of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries
call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.
On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady
of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August
- and everybody complains about how bad the weather
is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates
this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great
fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to
Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.
Kukljica Tourist Board
QKukljica ulica II 87, tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, info@
kukljica.hr, www.kukljica.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Preko Tourist Board
QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, tzpreko@
preko.hr, www.preko.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 21:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Pašman
You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge
from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon,
the island's main settlement. Like Ugljan, it's fairly lowlying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are
a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with
a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a
12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited
on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman
consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land
or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even
stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head
to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you'll find a great
lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon,
there's the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr),
which has lovely clean sandy beaches.
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Pašman Tourist Board
QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, [email protected],
www.pasman.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun
08:00 - 11:00.
Tkon Tourist Board
QMulina 6, Tkon, tel. (+385-23) 28 52 13, [email protected], www.tkon.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 08:00 - 12:00.


This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green,
low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli
and Mali Iž. Veli Iž's Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian
food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop
and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made
here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used
to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along
the whole Dalmatian coastline. The streets are too narrow
for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly
and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for
your luggage. The town's festival takes place over 3 days
in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball.
Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders live from fishing,
olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with
Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you're
really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can
always swim there.
Zadar Tourist Board office
QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Ist & Molat
Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having
3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit
carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry
a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There
are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island.
Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats
and sheep. It's great to spend the day exploring the pretty
coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.
Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has
sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good
for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Dugi otok
Although it's easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia's
“Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of
those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in
high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running
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Zadar Surroundings
from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival
called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh
grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades
in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The
festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another
unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of
the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on
enormous horns poached from some poor beast.
If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village
of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven
for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun.
There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip
of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to
your heart's content - it's the best way to explore any island.
Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course,
clothing-optional zones.
A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part
of a visit to Dugi Otok - it's within biking distance from Sali.
Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets
and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay
- the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can
swim there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and
ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More
visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine
to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although
the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.
Dugi otok Tourist Board
QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94,
[email protected], www.dugiotok.hr. Open 08:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.
Telašćica Nature Park
QSali IV 2, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73
93, [email protected], www.telascica.hr. Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park
Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00
inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 - 1400kn
depending on the size of the boat.

Zadar Surroundings
Silba, Olib & Premuda
These small green islands with one village apiece, each
necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the
usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from
Zadar (see “Getting around”).
Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three,
and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music,
including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the
church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings),
and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the
lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your
way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you're energetic
enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball.
Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches,
some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they
are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual
monument - a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built
by one of the island's sea captains so that his wife could
look out to sea and know when he would return (and know
when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less
cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love.
Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually
it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit's renowned
pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and
rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say
Olib's cheese is better than the more famous one made
on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff.
Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery,
and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in
the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in which Croatian was
first written.
Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has
an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore,
and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that,
expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone
houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and
clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.
Silba Tourist Board
QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, [email protected], www.
tzsilba.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00
- 12:00.

Pag

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56 Zadar In Your Pocket

Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it
are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like
the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It's
not what you'd normally expect from the Mediterranean.
But that's not necessarily a bad thing.
There are many other weird and wonderful things about
Pag. It's oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an
exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans
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here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any
supermarket. It's completely natural and has a high mineral
content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the
island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and
herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity.
These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals' meat
and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly
valued - it's one of Croatia's most famous export products.
A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don't
be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some
home made stuff on the island itself. Pag island lamb is also
regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.
The island's other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for
the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep,
watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the
day's catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.
Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it
is considered one of Croatia's most highly prized products.
Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive.
But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.
In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj
Dalmatinac, Dalmatia's most famous architect, to design
the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical
layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the
streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the
little cottages, The town's most striking church, St Mary's,
was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. The town has a few other
interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants.
In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as
Croatia's party island, and the place where it all happens
is the town of Novalja. A couple of kilometres from town
is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of
bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb's most famous names, have opened to create Croatia's
answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours,
pools and more. It's wildly popular. Because of that, some
might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high
season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all
Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where
you can escape the crowds.
Pag Tourist Information Centre
QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tic@tzgpag.
hr, www.tzgpag.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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Chapter 12

Shopping
Antique Market
A city that once thrived on trade and merchants, now gives
you the opportunity to find that very unique treasure. As
you enter the Old Town, through the City Gates and across
the bridge, choose from the huge selection of Dalmatian
fortunes or dare we say bargains that are on sale. C-2, Jurja Barakovića Street, daily 09:00 - 14:00 and 15:00 22:00.

Art Galleries
Ancient Glass Museum’s shop
Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away', and you
can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic
drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD-2,
Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31,
www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
Anima
Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran
Debelić. Dalmatian themes.QC-3, Vladimira Papafave
1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, zoran.
[email protected], www.anima.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Bambola
Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes.QC-3, Ul.
plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 86 10. Open 09:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A
Buža
As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna' at the top of Klaićeva
Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares
the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole'). Be sure
to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academic painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar.QD-3, Mihovila
Klaića 4. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. N
Laudato
Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.QD-3, Don
Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385-) 091 589
84 14, [email protected], www.laudato.hr. Open
09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Pia
Hands down the best gallery in the city! Located on
Madijevaca street, a narrow step street branching off the
middle of Široka street, that at first glance is even unnoticable. At Pia Gallery, you can find some of the most beautiful pieces of jewelry, paintings and pottery by local artists,
plus a large selection of original handmade knickknacks.
QC-3, Madijevaca 8, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 06, galerija.
[email protected]. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. JN

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58 Zadar In Your Pocket

The Zadar National Museum Shop
Want an original souvenir? Something authentic! Visit the
ground floor of the City Guard at the Narodni Square and
choose from published works, postcards, magnets, key
rings, lavender packages, puzzles, art work reproductions
and other souvenirs featuring motifs of the museum's artefacts.QC-3, Narodni trg, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51, www.
nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JN

Delicatessen shop
Bibich
A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet
products and gifts.QC-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel.
(+385-23) 25 02 46, [email protected]. Open 09:00
- 21:00. Jul - Aug open 09:00 - 23:00. A
Delikatese Lukin
Established in 1919 and four generations later the tradition
continues! This family prides itself on the typical Dalmatian delicacies they have mastered including various types
of homemade sausages, prosciutto, pancetta and other
meat products. Smok'n meat is their treat!QC-2, Pod bedemom 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 15 93. Open 07:00 - 13:00,
Sun 07:00 - 11:00. JA
Gligora
Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag.
It produces one of Croatia's finest and most recognised
cheeses. Also at Hrvoja V. Hrvatinčića 5 (City Market) tel.
70 07 30, Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 20:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00.
QN-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33
96, [email protected], www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A
Maraska
Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the
Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to
soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB-3, Mate Karamana 3,
www.maraska.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Olvin
A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also
selling wines and juices.QN-5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35.
Open 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N
Vitlov čokolade
This chic pastry shop offers a large selection of luxury
pralines in a variety of different flavours, along with an
abundance of chocolate squares made with dry fruits,
pepper, cinnamon and ginger. While top Luxardo liqueurs
available contain a plethora of aromas and unique flavours.These tasty sweets offer something for everyone's
taste!QC-3, Ulica plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31
31 48, [email protected], www.cokoladavitlov.com.
Open 09:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. JA
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Shopping

Hotels

foreign newspapers
For foreign daily papers (German and Italian editions
tend to be easiest to come by) try the Slobodna Dalmacija kiosk on the mainland side of the bridge to the
Old Town - Stjepana Radića bb. (D-1). Also at: Obala
kneza Branimira bb (D-1), and Miroslava Krleže
bb (B-1)and Tisak shop at Široka ulica (Kalelarga
street C- 3).

3 stars

Art Hotel Kalelarga
QC-3, Ulica Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00,
fax (+385-23) 23 30 01, [email protected],
www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. 10 rooms (9 singles €137
- 179, 9 doubles €171 - 219, 1 Junior Suite €225 - 275).
PZAR6UGBKW hhhh

Donat
QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56
00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, [email protected],
www.hotel-donat.com. 240 rooms (36 singles €53 82, 126 doubles €47 - 74, 34 triples €47 - 74, 44 Family
Rooms €53 - 80). PTHALEGBKXC
hhh

Bastion
QB-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23)
49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@hotel-bastion.
hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. 28 rooms (23 singles €179 205, 23 doubles €219 - 250, 3 suites €337 - 370, 1 President apartment €420 - 480, 1 Junior Suite €298 - 328).
PZJHARFLGBKDXW hhhh

Nature Corner
Bio svijet
Eco-friendly products on offer including fresh organic
vegetables picked from the outskirts of Zadar. It's located
opposite the bus station, ground floor of the shopping
centre. Also at Knezova Šubić Bribirskih 4, tel. (+385-23)
25 08 34, Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.QO-5, Ante
Starčevića bb, tel. (+385-23) 40 00 18, [email protected], www.bio-svijet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. A

Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik
QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56
00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, [email protected],
www.borik.falkensteiner.com. 298 rooms (94 doubles
€81 - 136, 83 Mini Family €84 - 152, 58 Family Royal €94
- 157, 59 Family Suites €109 - 162, 4 Luxury Suites €).
PTHAUFLEGBKDCW hhhh

Jerkin
Herbal Pharmacy Jerkin, 45 years in the trade, produce a
great range of natural remedies, teas, ointments, tinctures
and natural cosmetics.QK-2, Prilaz Fabijanića 11, tel.
(+385-23) 32 23 56/(+385-) 091 524 57 89, jerkinbilje@
yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N

Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana
QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax
(+385-23) 55 56 80, [email protected], www.
adriana.falkensteiner.com. 48 rooms (48 Junior Suites
€172 - 302). PHAFLEGBKDXW
hhhh

Kadulja
A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular concept
in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you'll find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr. Hauschka.QB-1,
Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23 58 63, kadulja.
[email protected]. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana
QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax
(+385-23) 55 56 80, [email protected], www.
adriana.falkensteiner.com. 48 rooms (48 Junior Suites
€172 - 302). PiHAFLEGBKDXCi
wW hhhh

L'Occitane
Also at Supernova Centar Zadar, tel. 34 40 18.QD-3,
Narodni trg 3, tel. (+385-23) 70 04 04, narodnizd@
loccitane.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA

Kolovare
+385-23) 21 30 79, [email protected],
www.hotel-kolovare.com. 203 rooms (27 singles 750 825kn, 164 doubles 520 - 660kn, 12 apartments 90750
- 107250kn).
PJHARUGBKCW
hhhh

Shopping centres
City Galleria
QN-5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, info@
citygalleria.hr, www.citygalleria.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. P

Pinija
QPetrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 20 25 00, fax (+385-23)
36 41 31, [email protected], www.hotel-pinija.hr.
300 rooms (270 doubles €51 - 88, 30 Family Rooms:
€62 - 90). PTJHARUFBKDCwW
hhhh

Supernova centar Zadar
QAkcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www.
supernova.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. W

Zaton Holiday Resort
QDražnikova ulica 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02
11, fax (+385-23) 26 42 26, [email protected], www.
zaton.hr. 597 rooms (253 Apartment 4* €58 - 271, 344
Apartment 3* €44 - 189). PTA6FLEBi
KCW

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60 Zadar In Your Pocket

4 stars

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Adriatic
QTina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 29 07 00,
fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, [email protected], www.
ilirijabiograd.com. 100 rooms (95 doubles €43 - 125, 5
apartments €80 - 135). PTJHAFLEBi
KDCW hhh
Mediteran
QG-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 00,
fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, [email protected],
www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. 30 rooms (30 singles 470 620kn, 30 doubles 590 - 850kn). PALKXW
hhh
Villa Hrešć
QI-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 70,
fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, [email protected], www.villahresc.hr. 9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120, 6 suites €130
- 220). PALGCW hhh

Hostels
Boutique Hostel Forum
QB-3, Široka ulica 20, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 05, fax
(+385-23) 25 07 95, [email protected],
hostelforumzadar.com. 111 dorm beds, €24 - 84 per
person. PHAGXW
Drunken Monkey Hostel
QP-6, Jure Kastriotića Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31
44 06/(+385-) 099 415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@
gmail.com, www.drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. 30 dorm
beds, 165 - 250kn per person. PNGBCW
Zadar Youth Hostel
QG-5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel. (+385-23) 33
11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, [email protected], www.
zadarhostel.hfhs.hr. 253 dorm beds, 15 - 37€ per
person. 294 dorm beds, 14.70 - 46.70€ per person.
THR6UGBKW

Camping
Autokamp Planik
QRažanac, tel. (+385-23) 65 14 31/(+385-) 098 27 21 87,
[email protected], www.planik.hr. Person per day 26 40kn, Children 17 - 24kn, Pitch 40 - 90kn, Car/Tent 20
- 30kn, Accomodation tax 6kn. W
Summer 2015

61

Alesandra Paravije
B-3
Ante Kuzmanića
E-3,4
Bana Josipa Jelačića
D-1
Bartula Kašića
D-3/E-3
Bedemi zadarskih pobuna
A,B,C,D-2
Benedikte Braun
M-5
Bijanchinija
K-5/B-3
Biskupa Jurja Divnića
K-5/B-2
Blaža Jurjeva
L-6/C-3
Borelli
L-6/C-3
Božidara Petranovića
K-6/A-3
Braće Bersa
K-6/A-3
Braće Bilšić
K-6/A-3
Braće Vranjanin
L-6/C-3
Brne Karnarutića
K,L-5/C-2
Brodarska
K-4/L-4/C-1
Ćirila Ivekovića
L-6/C-4
Dalmatinskog Sabora
L-5,6
Dinarska
J-4
Don Ive Prodana
L-5,6/D-3
Đure Sudete
J-3,4
Elizabete Kotromanić
L-6/D-3

62 Zadar In Your Pocket

Forum
Foša
Fra Donata Fabijanića
Fra Šimuna Klimantovića
Franje iz Milana
Frederica Grisogona
Grge Oštrića
Grgura Mrganića
Grigora Viteza
Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića
Ilije Smiljanića
Istarska Obala
Ivana Brkanovića
Ivana Bršića
Ivana Danila
Ivana Mažuranića
Ivana Meštrovića
Jakše Čedomila-Čuke
Jerolima Vidulića
Josipa Jurja Strossmayera
Jurja Barakovića
Jurja Bijankinija

K-6/C-3
L-6/D,E-4
K-6/A,B-3
L-6/D-4
L-6/D-4
L-5/D-2
J-4
K-6/B-3
L-3
L-6/C-2
L-5,6/D-3
J-5,6/A-3
L-4,5/C-1
K-5
K-6/A-3
K-4,5/B,C-1
K-3,4
K-5/B-3
K-6/B-3
L-4
L-5/D-2,3
K-6/B-3

Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva
L-5/C-3
Kazališni prolaz
C-3
Knezova Šubića Bribirskih
F-6
Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira
M-6
Kraljskog Dalmatina
L-6/C-3
Krešimira Čošića
M-6
Krešimirova obala
B-4
Liburnska obala
K-5/B-2
Luke Jelića
K-6/A-3
Lukoranska
K-4
Majke Margarite
L-6/C-3
Mateja Bošnjaka
K-5/B-2
Madijevaca
K,L-6/C-3
Među bedemima
M-6
Mihe Klaića
L-6/D-3
Mihovila Pavlinovića
L-6/C,D-4
Miroslava Krleže
J,K-4
N. Nikole Matafara
K-5/B-3
Narodni trg
L-6/C,D-3
Narodnog lista
L-5/D-2
Obala kneza Branimira
K,L-5/C-1
Obala kneza Trpimira
K-5/A,B,C,D-1

Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4
Obala kralja Tomislava
L,M-5/D-2
Oko vrulja
K-4
Perivoj Jarula
L,M-5/D,E-2
Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke
L,M-6/D,E-3
Perivoj Vladimira Nazora
M-5,6/E-3
Pod bedemom
K,L-5/C-2
Poljana Natka Nodila
K-5/B-2
Poljana Šime Budinića
C-6/D-3
Poljanska
L,M-3
Pravdonoše
K-5/B-2
Prečac Nikole Jakšića
K-4
Prečka
L-3
Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice
K-6
Prokonzula Grgura
K-5,6/B-2,3
Put Dikla
G,J-3
Put Šimunova
L,M-3,4
Rafaela Levakovića
L-6/D-4
Ravnice
M-6
Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića
L-5/C-1
Ruđera Boškovića
L-6/D-3,4
Sirac
L-6/D-4

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Slavoljuba Penkale
Stara Voštarnica
Stomorica
Stube Slavoljuba Penkale
Sv. Nediljice
Šime Ljubavca
Šime Ljubića
Šime Vitasovića
Šimuna Benje Kožičića
Široka ulica
Špire Brusine
Tanzlingera Zanottija
Trg opatice Čike
Trg pet bunara
Trg Petra Zoranića
Trg sv. Frane
Trg sv. Krševana

K-4
L-5/C-1
L-6/C-3,4
K-4
L-6/C-4
L-6/D-4
L-6/D-4
L-5/D-2,3
K-5/B-2,3
K,L-6/B,C-3
L-6/D-3
K-6/B-3
B-3
L-6/D-3
L-6/D-3
K-6/A-3
K-5/B,C-2

Trg sv. Stošije
Trg tri bunara
Ulica Borelli
Varoška
Vatroslava Lisinskog
Velebitska
Veslačka
Vjekoslava Maštrovića
Vladimira Papafave
Voštarnica
Vrata sv. Kršovana
Vrata sv. Roka
Zadarskog mira
Zlatarska
Zore dalmatinske
Zrinsko-Frankopanska

K-6/B-3
K-5/A-3
L-6/C-3
L-6/C,D-3
J,K-3,4
L-4,5/D-1
L-4,5/D-1
J-4
K-6/A,B-3
L-4
K-5
K-5
K-6
L-5/C-2
L-6/C-3
M-5

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St. Donat - Zadar Tourist Board Archives

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Summer 2015

63

Veslačk
a
Veslačk
a

S. Radića
S. Radića

Velebitska

Dr. FDr. F
ranjranj
e Tue Tu
đmađma
na na

B. J. Jelačić
a
B. J. Jelačić
a

I. Ma
žu
I. Ma ranića
žura
nića

R.J.Katalinića
R.J.Katalinića

Marina
Marina
Yacht
Yacht
Club
Club
Service
Service

St. Voštarnica
St. Voštarnica

TRPIMIRA
TRPIMIRA
KNEZA
KNEZA
OBALA
OBALA

Brkanovića
Brkanovića

UVALA
UVALA
VRULJE
VRULJE

Frane
FraAlfi
nerev
Alfiića
revića

Velebitska

a
trović
I. Meš
a
trović
I. Meš

Maraska
Maraska
ParkPark

J. J.J.SJ.
troStr
ssomssam
yeara
yera

BrodBr
arod
skar
a ska

OBA
OB
LAAKN
LA EZ
KNAEZBR
AABR
ANIR
NIM
IM
AIRA

Benedikte B
ra
Benedikte B
ra

un un

LUKA
LUKA
FERRY
FERRY
Veslački
Veslački
klubklub
Rowing
Rowing
clubclub

Most
Most
Bridge
Bridge
JADROLINIJA
JADROLINIJA

BROD,
BROD,
KRUZER
KRUZER
SHIP,
SHIP,
CRUISER
CRUISER

TRAJEKT
TRAJEKT
CARCAR
FERRY
FERRY

BENZINSKA
BENZINSKA
POSTAJA
POSTAJA
GASGAS
STATION
STATION

POSTAJA
POSTAJA
ZA TURISTIČKI
ZA TURISTIČKI
AUTOBUS
AUTOBUS
TOURIST
TOURIST
BUSBUS
STATION
STATION

I. Smiljanića

Poljana Pape
Aleksandra III.
Poljana Pape
Aleksandra III.

LJEKARNA
LJEKARNA
PHARMACY
PHARMACY

I. Smiljanića

Mate Karamana

JAVNI
JAVNI
WCWC
PUBLIC
PUBLIC
LAVATORY
LAVATORY

zadar.inyourpocket.com

a a

Kr

Kr imi
eš ra
im Ćo
ira sić
Ćo a
sić
a

M. Klaića

M. Klaića

Božidara P
e
Božidara P tranovića
etrano
vića

Mate Karamana

Bianchija

Bianchija

PARKIRALIŠTE
PARKIRALIŠTE
PARKING
PARKING

imirimir
a a

Elektra
Elektra
Citadela
Citadela

FOŠA
FOŠA

AUTOBUSNA
AUTOBUSNA
POSTAJA
POSTAJA
BUSBUS
STATION
STATION

Utvrda
Utvrda
Forte
Forte
The The
ForteForte
Fortress
FortressKralKral
ja Dmi
ja Dmi
tra tra
Zvon
Zvon

SiracSirac

WI-FI
WI-FI

J J

nicenice
RavRav

anića
Kuzm
Ante zmanića
Ku
Ante

NOĆNI
NOĆNI
KLUB
KLUB
NIGHT
NIGHT
CLUB
CLUB

Perivoj
Perivoj
Vladimira
Vladimira
Nazora
Nazora

Kopnena
Kopnena
vratavrata
LandLand
GateGate

Ruđera Boškov
ića
Ruđera Boškov
ića

Knezova
Posedarskih
Knezova
Posedarskih
R. Levaković

Fra Š. Klimatov
R. Levakovićića
Š. Ljubića

ića ića
MIHMIH
OVIOVI
LA PLA P
AVLAVL
INOINO
VIĆVIĆ
A A

Fra Š. Klimatov
ića
Franje Iz Milan
Š. Ljubića a

Fran
Š.
je Iz
Ljub
Milana
avca

Ivek Ivek
ov ov

Š. Ljubavca

TAXI
TAXI

Trg 5
Trg 5
bunara
bunara

Medulićeva
Medulićeva

Kovačka
Kovačka

Košarkaška
Košarkaška
dvorana
dvorana

Perivoj
Perivoj
kraljice
kraljice
Jelene-Madij
Jelene-Madij
evkeevke

Crkva
Crkva
sv. Dominika
sv. Dominika
St Dominic’s
St Dominic’s
Church
Church

Varoška

HOTEL/HOSTEL
HOTEL/HOSTEL

a
vić
so
ita ića
e V sov
Šim Vita
e

Šim

Jurja Barakovića

Jurja Barakovića

MUZEJ
MUZEJ
MUSEUM
MUSEUM

ića ića
aš aš
aK aK

Providurova
Providurova
palačapalača
Deputy’s
Deputy’s
PalacePalace

VARO
VARO
Š Š

VA VA
ISLA
ISLA
TOM
TOM
LJALJA
LA KRA
LA KRA
OBA
OBA

Kapetanova
Kapetanova rtul rtul
kula kula
Ba Ba
The Captain’s
The Captain’s
Tower
Tower

Špire
ŠpiBru
re Bru
sinesine

rica rica
mo mo
Sto Sto
Sv. Nediljice

TURISTIČKE
TURISTIČKE
INFORMACIJE
INFORMACIJE
TOURIST
TOURIST
INFORMATION
INFORMATION

64 Zadar In Your Pocket

Varoška

MARINA
MARINA

Palača
Palača
Grisogono-Vovo
Grisogono-Vovo
Palace
Palace
Grisogono-Vovo
Grisogono-Vovo

Poljana
Poljana
ŠimeŠime
Budinića
Budinića
Trg Trg
PetraPetra
Zoranića
Zoranića

OBA
OBA
LA LKA K
RALRAL
JA PJA P
ETRETR
A KAR KR
RESTORAN
RESTORAN
EŠIEMŠIM
RESTAURANT
RESTAURANT
IRAIRA
IV. IV.

BUSBUS
ZA ZRAČNU
ZA ZRAČNU
LUKU
LUKU
BUSBUS
TO AIRPORT
TO AIRPORT
TRŽNICA,
TRŽNICA,
RIBARNICA
RIBARNICA
MARKET,
MARKET,
FISH
FISH
MARKET
MARKET

JEDNOSMJERNA
JEDNOSMJERNA
ULICA
ULICA
ONE-WAY
ONE-WAY
STREET
STREET

CrkvaCrkva
sv. Mihovila
sv. Mihovila
St Michael’s
St Michael’s
Church
Church

Sv. Nediljice

POLICIJA
POLICIJA
POLICE
POLICE

M. Margarite

SHOPPING
SHOPPING

Art Hotel
Art Hotel
Kalelarga
Kalelarga

Blaža Jurjeva

BOLNICA
BOLNICA
HOSPITAL
HOSPITAL

Palača
Palača
sudasuda
Municipal
Municipal
Court
Court

Crkva
Crkva
sv. Marije
sv. Marije
“de Pusterla”
“de Pusterla”
Stomorica
Stomorica
Church
Church
of StofMary
St Mary
“de Pusterla”
“de Pusterla”
Stomorica
Stomorica

R RI I
V VA A

M. Margarite

orgulje
orgulje
Morske
Morske
Sea organ
Sea organ

Zlatarska

OBO
AB
LA LKARA
KR
LJAALJPAETPREA
TRKAREKRE
ŠIMŠIIRMIR
A IV
A. IV.

Rector’s
Rector’s
Palace
Palace

PlemPlem
ića Bor
ićaelli
Borelli
Blaža Jurjeva

ZADA
ZARS
DAKO
RSGKO
GRA
MI
MIRA
1358
13.58.

Zore Dalmatinske

V. Papafave
V. Papafave

Šimuna K. Ben
je
Šimuna K. Ben
je

G. Mrganića

G. Mrganića

Tanzlingera

Tanzlingera

Poljana
Poljana
PapePape
Ivana
Ivana
Pavla
Pavla
II. II.

Crkva
Crkva
sv. Marije
sv. Marije
MadiMadi
jevacjevac
a a
St Mary’s
St Mary’s
Church
Church

K. Dalmatina

FORUM
FORUM

Zore Dalmatinske

ZanoZttainjaottija
Stup Stup
srama
srama
PillarPillar
of shame
of shame

Narodni
Narodni
trg trg
Kneževa
Kneževa
Gradska
Gradska
straža
straža
Gradska
Gradska
loža loža
palača
palača
City Lodge
City City
Sentinel
SentinelCity Lodge
E. Kotrom
E. Kotrom
anićanić

Archeological
Archeological
Museum
Museum
CrkvaCrkva
sv. Donata
sv. Donata
ŠiroŠiro
ka ul.–
ka ul.–
KaleKale
larglarg
a a
St Donatus’
St Donatus’
Church
Church

K. Dalmatina

ća ća
duli duli
J. Vi J. Vi

Franjevački
Franjevački
i Crkva
i Crkva
samostan
samostan
Asiškog
Asiškog D. FabDi.jaFnaibćiajanića
sv. Franje
sv. Franje
St Francis’s
St Francis’sfra fra
& Franciscan
& Franciscan
Church
Church
Monastery
Monastery

Arheološki
Arheološki
muzejmuzej

FredFerreicdaerGicra
isoGgroisnoagona

Palača
Palača
Ghirardini
Ghirardini CrkvaCrkva
sv. Šimuna
Palace
Palace
Ghirardini
Ghirardinisv. Šimuna
St Simeon’s
St Simeon’s
Church
Church
Don Ive
DonProd
Ive ana
Prodana

Knezov
Kneazov
aića
Šub
ŠubBri
ićabirs
Brikih
birskih JurjaJurja
Dalmatinca
Dalmatinca

Br. Vranjanin

CrkvaCrkva
sv. Ilije
sv. Ilije
St Elias’s
St Elias’s
Church
Church

Danila
Danila
Ivana
Ivana

Pozdrav
Pozdrav
Suncu
Suncu
Greeting
Greeting
the Sun
to the
to Sun

Boutique
Boutique
Hostel
Hostel
Forum
Forum

Br. Vranjanin

A. Paravije

Braće Bersa

Braće Bersa

ISTARSKA OBALA
ISTARSKA OBALA

A. Paravije
Braće Bilši
ć
Braće Bilši
ć

Jelića
Jelića
Luke
Luke

ića ića
and and
L. M L. M

Katedrala
Katedrala
sv. Stošije
sv. Stošije
St Anastasia’s
St Anastasia’s
Cathedral
Cathedral
CrkvaCrkva
GospeGospe
J. BjaJn.kBinjaijnakinija
Trg Trg
od Zdravlja
od Zdravlja
Church
Church
of OurofLady
Our Lady
Sv. Stošije
Sv. Stošije
of Health
of Health

St Peter
St Peter
the Elder’s
the Elder’s

Zlatarska

Brčića
I. Brč
I. ića

Carinarnica
Carinarnica
house
house
Customs
Customs

Nikole
Nikole Matafar
Mateafare

CrkvaCrkva
sv. Krševana
sv. Krševana CrkvaCrkva
sv. Petra
sv. Petra
St Chrysogonus’
St Chrysogonus’
Starog
Starog
i Sv. Andrije
i Sv. Andrije
Church
Church
St Andrew’s
St Andrew’s
and and

Gradska
Gradska
vijećnica
vijećnica
HrvoH
jarvVo. jH
arVva
.H
tirnvićaatinCity
ića Hall
City Hall

Sabora

Prok. Grgura

TrgT3rg 3

JakšeJakše
Ćuke Ćuke

BrneBrn
Krnearu
Krntića
arutića
Sabora

Prok. Grgura

Pr Pr

ara ara
bunbun

JurjaJur
Divjainić
Divainića

Šimuna Kožičića Benje

e

Šimuna Kožičića Benje

e

Arsenal
Arsenal donodšonoš
av av

Dalmatinskog

NatkaNatka
Nodila
Nodila

Hotel
Hotel
Bastion
Bastion

Lučka
Lučka
Kapetanija
Kapetanija
rs' rs'
Harbourmaste
Harbourmaste
officeoffice

OBAOBA
LA KLA K
NEZNAEZA
BRABNRAN
IMIR
IM
AIRA

JAZINE
JAZINE
OBAOLBAL
A KA
RAKLRJA
ALTJA
TO
OM
ISM
ISVLAV
LA
A A
a
a
il st list
g
g
o no
Perivoj
Perivoj
n
d d
Jarula
Jarula
ro ro
Na Na

Pod Pod
Bedemom
Bedemom
Dalmatinskog

na na
pobpuobu
Muzej
Muzej
grada
grada
skihskih
The The
City City
adi azar dar
z
i
šnjaka Museum
Boejšn
Boka
aat
a ja
em em
Museum
MatejM
BedBed
Poljana
Poljana

Muzej
Muzej
antičkog
antičkog
stakla
stakla
The Museum
The Museum
of Ancient
of Ancient
GlassGlass

BedBeemdiemi
zadzaardar
skihskpih p
obuonbun
a a

Morska
Morska
vratavrata
(Vrata
(Vrata
sv. Krševana)
sv. Krševana)
Sea Gate
Sea Gate
(St Chrysogonus’
(St Chrysogonus’
Gate)Gate)

M
Dalm atice
atin
ske
M
Dalm atice
atin
ske

Barkajoli
Barkajoli

BAOLBAALA
A OA
RNUSRKNSK
LIBU
LIB

31.lis

Đački
Đački
domdom
Student
Student
dormitory
dormitory

Sveučilište
Sveučilište
University
University

d d

r r a a
n n s s k k
o o
A A d d
r r i i a a
t t i i c c
facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

e e
mm o o r r
S S e e a a

Summer 2015

65

Chapter 25

66 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

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