Zagreb In Your Pocket

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Zagreb City Travel Guide



Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Spring 2016

Forts Be
the history
reached generations
of Šibenik’s fortresses
Clubbing Zagreb
In Spades
& groovin’
night long
archeological sites
What Springs In
Blossoming concerts
and festivals

N°83 - complimentary copy




A zesty editorial to unfold

Arrival & Getting Around


City Basics 9
The A-Z of Zagreb

Tales of the Sava Riverbank 10
From past to the present day

Restaurants 25
We give you the bread ‘n‘ butter of where to eat

Treat yourself or be treated

Coffee & Cakes


“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Zagreb Nightlife Pulse
When in Zagreb, do as Zagrepčani




Priceless places and buys



The true meaning of “do not disturb”



Services you just may need

A pick ‘n‘ mix list to brighten your stay

Local Flavour

Discover what we’ve uncovered

SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here

Culture & Events


Let the music take you higher


List of Small Features
The Foodie’s Guide
Tram N° 13
The Altar of St. Rocco
Affordable Art
City Centre Shopping

Maps & Index
Street Register
Transport Map
City Centre Map
City Map


Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board

Spring into action with loads of concerts, outdoor events, packed terraces and fun-filled parks
Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan (TZGZ Archives)

Spring 2016 3

Welcome to Zagreb at this beautiful time of year where not
only does the flora and @InYourPocket
fauna blossom, but the warmth in
the city air turns up a notch with a large number of concerts, exhibitions and festivals up for grabs. In this issue,
we have a feature on the Sava River and its riverbank, our
Sightseeing category discovers who has the honor of firing
the famous Grić
from the Lotrščak Tower every day
at noon, whilst our Nightlife category brings you the latest on what’s pulsating once the moon rises and the stars
begin to shine. As always, you can find the perfect souvenir
as a memento or gift in our Shopping special. So, without
further a due,
spring into action!

Stay up-to-date
Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
ISSN 1333-2732

What’s going on?

Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
Zagreb In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia
Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
[email protected],
Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
Printed by RadinWhere’s
Print, Sveta Nedelja,
published 4 times per year
the party?

Join the conversation with IYP
Editor Višnja Arambašić
Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić,
Jonathan Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac
Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
Assistant Editor All
Valićlatest news
Community Manager Eli Gajinov
Lovro Boljat
Photography Zagreb In Your Pocket team unless otherwise
Cover © Višnja Arambašić
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales
Valić, Elireviews
Gajinov, Kristina
[email protected]

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lication may be reproduced
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for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
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4 Zagreb In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the world‘s leading publisher of locally-produced city guides since 1992, recently launched a brand new
smartphone app: In Your Pocket City
Essentials. Featuring only hand-picked
venues and sights alongside essential
travel information, these city guides
have been carefully crafted by our local editors and include only the places
they are happy to recommend. The
app - available on both iOS and Android
- is free, and works offline. Go to
app on your smartphone to download it.
To keep up with all that’s new at In Your
Pocket, follow us on Facebook (facebook.
com/inyourpocket) or Twitter (twitter.

Arrival & Getting Around
By plane
Zagreb International Airport is located 17km out of town.
Its small size makes the airport easily to get around; both
domestic and international arrival and departure areas are
located on the ground floor. Changing currency: directly
outside international arrivals, there is a Zagrebačka banka
office complete with a currency exchange (Open 08:00 21:00) and ATM. In the departures hall there is an Information Centre (tel. 060 32 03 20), which is open 24 hours.
Toilets: The toilets in the centre of the airport across from
the post office have a baby changing room, but do note
that the ones on the top floor are less crowded. Getting to
Town: Pleso prijevoz ( runs a bus
service from Zagreb International Airport to the Zagreb Bus
Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to
flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and
costs 30kn/person. Those willing to part with a bit more
cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals.
Due to the specific location of the Zagreb International Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly. Therefore, we recommend you pre-book online prior to your arrival. Simply log
onto and your taxi ride will be waiting for
you with prices and comfort second to none. If you wish to
go solo and ride on your own, then the airport has over 10
local and international rent-a-car agencies to choose from.
Zagreb International Airport
(Međunarodna zračna luka Zagreb
QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 22 22,
The bus and train stations are not directly in close
proximity to one another but are within a 10 minute easy
walk or a 2-4 minute drive by car.

By bus
The ground floor of the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni
kolodvor) is home to a series of shops where anything
from bed linen to a cup of coffee can be procured. The
top floor is home to a post office (Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun) and chapel. Window N°3, the
Information centre (Open 00:00 - 24:00), usually is staffed
by someone with at least a minor command of English.
Changing currency: ATM machines are located in the
main hall next to the ticket office and outside the building
along Avenija Marina Držića. There is a currency exchange
(mjenjačnica, Open 06:15 - 21:30, Sun 07:00 - 21:30) in the
ticketing hall. Left luggage: Abandon your bags in the
Garderoba (Open 24hrs) located up the small staircase to
the right of the main hall for 5kn/hr unless your bag weighs
over 40kg in which case you’ll be paying 10kn/hr. Toilets
are located up the small staircase to the left of the main
hall and cost 3kn. Getting to Town: Should you want to
walk the 20 minutes into town, when your back is to the
station entrance the centre is to your left and behind you.
For proponents of public transportation a tram is your
6 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Arrival & Getting Around
best bet - saunter across the street and pick up tram N°6
towards Črnomerec to get to the main square, Trg bana
Josipa Jelačića. Taxis are plentiful, but will cost about 50kn
to get to the centre. Getting around Town: Zagreb is well
connected with buses which are linked to all major cities in
Croatia. In addition, local lines run regularly between Zagreb County and its surrounding area. Ticket prices in one
direction within a radius of 50 kilometres from the countries capital range from 26-77kn.
Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor)
QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 060 31 33 33,
[email protected],

can see quite a lot in little time. If you would like to tour
around the surrounding area by bike, prices depend on the
distance and vary from 10-35kn. And for all you pet lovers, bring your very best friend along but do know that you
must have a mandatory veterinary booklet, small dogs are
free of charge if kept in your lap or in a basket: Larger00dogs
must wear a muzzle and are charged at 50% of the stand5
ard price for tickets.

Zagreb’s train station (željeznički kolodvor) is not very userfriendly, but sees more traffic than other points of entry into
the city. Changing currency: When exiting the tracks walk
through the main hall to find an ATM machine in the left
corner. A currency exchange is located in the international
ticketing area as is another ATM. The Information office
(Tel. 060 33 34 44. Open 06:00 - 22:00) is located between
the main hall and domestic ticketing area (to your right as
you exit the tracks). Across from the Information window is
a nifty tourist information touch screen - nifty, that is, if it
ever worked. The left luggage facilities (Garderoba) are
available 24 hours and are to the left of the main hall as
you exit the tracks. Each piece of luggage costs 15 - 25kn/
per day. Getting to Town: Walk out the main entrance
and survey your surroundings - this is the centre. To get
to the main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, take tram
N°6 towards Črnomerec or tram N°13 heading towards
Žitnjak. Taxis queue in front of the main hall and a ride into
town will usually go along the most scenic of routes and
will cost around 30kn. Getting around Town: Railroads
are connected with almost all major cities in Croatia, train
rides within and around the Zagreb area are faster and less
expensive than other means of transport. There are also
seasonal discounts and organised day trips where guests

Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre
Free info phone number 0800 53 53. Also at the Zagreb
Airport, next to the international arrivals area, at the Main
Bus Station, at the Main Train Station and Lotršćak Tower.
QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11, tel. (+385-) 0800
53 53/(+385-1) 481 40 51, [email protected], Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. May - October Open
08:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
Zagreb County Tourist Board
QC‑3, Preradovićeva 42, tel. (+385-1) 487 36 65, info@, Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,


Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor)
QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44,

Public transport

By train





The Sljeme bus line
The Sljeme line numbered 140 takes off from Mihaljevac
Station and goes to the Tomislav’s dom Station, six times
a day throughout the week, and every hour on weekends
between 06:20 -



Trams & Buses
Getting around town is made all the much easier via the
city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you
from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run
from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00
- 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can
be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with
a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4,
Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage.
There are 133 daily bus lines and 4 nightlines which link
Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest
and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at
Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most.
Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night
rides (00:00 - 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while
daily tickets are 30kn. Tickets are available from the driver
on buses, at kiosks or ZET stores. Children under six ride
free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an unvalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting
caught without one is an embarrassing and costly00experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule.
For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses
5 and
trams, simply visit
(+385-) 0800 20 00 60/(+385-) 060 10 00 01, javnost@




Why not swap that four-wheeler for a two-wheeler?
what is becoming somewhat of a common trend, more
and more locals have thought wisely and have begun to
choose the ecological route to town. Even though bike
routes haven’t fully been mapped, roads are marked for cyclists with either red paint or are separated from the main
road by yellow and white lines. Markings are very visible
and clear to both bike riders and car drivers. If you would
like to rent a bike (daily rental will cost 100kn), visit any of




Spring 2016 7

Arrival & Getting Around

+385 1 1414

City Basics
the following, www.nextbike.
hr, For those seeking a recreational
ride, then Maksimir, Bundek and Jarun are the ideal locations. True cycling enthusiasts who wish to be challenged
should know that the city surroundings are filled with alternative bicycle routes that range in various levels of degree
as well as different types of surface. For all other information and maps, visit the Zagreb Tourist Association and,



100% Co2

pet friendly - order specially
equiped car on hour before going to
the desired destination

baby friendly - order a car one
hour before going to the desired

Disabled travellers



Street parking/SMS Parking
There are three parking zones in Zagreb, indicated by signs
on the side of the street: zone 1(red) is 6kn/h with a maximum waiting time of 2 hours, zone 2 (yellow) is 3kn/h with
a maximum waiting time of 3 hours and zone 3 (green)
is 1.5kn/h. Purchase your ticket at the ticket machine box
which is beside the parking sign and make sure you display
it on your dashboard, or use your mobile to text message
your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown
(including the international code if you’re using a foreign
mobile (+385) 700101 (zone 1), 700102 (zone 2), 700103
(zone 3). Your payment is confirmed when you receive a
return text message from the appropriate authorities. As a
timely service, you’ll receive a text message reminding you
to top up your parking ticket limit before it expires or to
move your car. In case you don’t pay for your parking spot
or over-run your allotted time, you’ll be left a ticket valid
for 24 hours from the moment the beady-eyed inspector
spotted your naughtiness. The 24-hour ticket costs 100,
60 or 20kn respectively according to the zone, and can be
paid in any post office.

The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United
States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Eko taxi
QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 14 14/(+385-) 099 456
04 55, [email protected], T­6
Radio taksi Zagreb
QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-) 060 80 08 00/
(+385-1) 17 17, [email protected],
Taxi Cammeo
Qtel. (+385-1) 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00,

8 Zagreb In Your Pocket

You ‘had to go’ forty-five minutes ago...public toilets or WCs
(pronounced ‘vay-say’) are few, as one in the Cesarčeva
Street near the main city square, which is free of charge and
wheelchair-accessible. Your best bet is to find and use one
inside the shopping malls and bigger stores or take a seat
at a café, order yourself a beverage and then hustle through
the appropriate door - gospoda or muški for men, dame
or ženski for women.

Rent-a-car offices are located at airports and within the
city’s large hotels (e.g., Sheraton, Panorama, Westin,...) or
within their immediate vicinity. Prices per day for an economy or compact car class ranges from 250 to 550 kn. In order
to rent a four wheeled vehicle, you need to have a credit
card and be 18 years old (by law). If a problem occurs on
the road, first call your rent-a-car contact number, then the
HAK roadside assistance service at (+ 385-1) 1987.



As Croatia entered the EU on July 1 2013, there are no longer
custom limits between member states or tax return. For other
non-member states we recommend you to follow info at

Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape
and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a
loooong way to go. At the moment, all car parks have parking
spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access
with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that,
once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the
streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination
in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour
to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Car rental


Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

There are plenty of exchange offices around Zagreb, as well
as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a
day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but
not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on

Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want
to tip, but leaving 10-15% for the staff’s efforts seems like a
classy thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?

When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no
mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for
drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is
50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary
roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner,
drive slower, live longer.

All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make
sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia. In addition, if you are
flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple
entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and
Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

When things go wrong
Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Zagreb significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of
an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide
Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to
police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
district, in case you were involved in an accident or were
arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In
that case, contact your embassy. The main building for ER
is located in Heinzelova Street 88 (K-3) where everything
necessary will be done or you will be taken to the nearest
hospital if need. In case of an accident call HAK road help
24/7 (+385-1) 1987.

National Holidays
January 1
New Year’s Day
January 6
March 27
March 28
Easter Monday
May 1
International Workers’ Day
May 26
Corpus Christi
June 22
Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
June 25
Statehood Day
August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
August 15
Feast of the Assumption
October 8
Independence Day
November 1
All Saints’ Day
December 25
December 26
Saint Stephen’s Day
Spring 2016 9

Tales of the Sava Riverbank

Tales of the Sava Riverbank
down in the early evening hours and pedal the iron bikes
for a lamp will begin to glow, oh so cool! If you love horses,
then you definitely need to visit the racetrack hippodrome
which is located on the right bank of the Sava before the
Most Slobode (Bridge of Freedom). A kids corner is perfectly placed next to the Boćarski dom with a large playground filled with slides, see saws, trampolines and more.
Fancy a putt! Fans of golf can take a swing at the well-kept
golf courses at the Golf & Country Club Zagreb (www. located near the Sava River. Fishing fans
won’t be disappointed because the waters of the Sava
River are risen with many fishing spots reachable by car.
The riverbed is rocky with deposits of sand and gravel. One
secret hotspot is perfect for špineraši (Spin Fishermen),
where the Eastern district Heating plant was reconstructed
with a stone dam over which rapids are created. Fish varieties include bleak, chub, dace, nose carp, barbel, bream,
carp, pike, catfish and perch. Thanks to the diversity of fish
species, fishing is possible throughout the year. For any
additional information about fishing and licenses, visit the
Sports Fishing Association Piškor or contact them via
mail or phone (

The Virgin - Photo by Lea Bogović

Many of the world’s great cities have a river running
through them, from the River Thames in London to the Yarra River in faraway Melbourne. Zagreb too has its own Sava
River, a symbol of the city that has over the years shared its
ups and downs with Zagrebians. As opposed to many other
rivers, the Sava River is not located centrally, but rather on
the outskirts of the city. It is one of the three longest rivers in Croatia running a length of 944km, whilst the width
of the river spans more than 100 meters in parts. FYI, the
Sava River along Zagreb is neither navigable nor drinkable,
mostly because of industry and waste water treatment; yet
despite this, it’s common to see some fishermen hoping for
a catch along the riverbank.
Turning back the clock, the first public beach was opened
in 1926 by the then mayor Vjekoslav Heinzel. The water
was crystal clear back then, drinkable in fact, and in addition to swimming, the beach was a place where one
would stroll, play cards, sing, mingle, socialise, play games...
The area known as ‘Babinjak’ was primarily a sunbathing
area where many of Zagreb’s ladies would catch a tan.
The swimming area had about 900 cabins, with one end
including the so-called ‘Gospodarić’s baths’ where wealthy
citizens unconcerned with admission prices would seek leisure and refreshments. Did someone say ticket price? Yes,
indeed, one had to pay to bathe in parts! To the right there
was a public beach with two wooden pools in the river itself. At the time, ‘The Sava Riviera’ stretched all the way
to present-day Lake Jarun and the Sava Beach also held an
annual‘beauty pageant’.
Things turned for the worse in the 1960’s when a huge
flood engulfed one third of Zagreb in 1964. The flood destroyed many of the beach structures and with contamination detected, bathing in the river was prohibited and so
the beach was only used for sunbathing.To make matters
worse, a large number of cars began to invade the city at
the time and the Sava River served as a ‘car wash’, it even
10 Zagreb In Your Pocket

became fashionable to wash your car from top to bottom
alongside the river. How eco-friendly is that?
In this day and age, you’ll be happy to know that swimming and car washing are strongly prohibited but in juxtaposition, there is an abundance of ‘sports and recreational
activities’linked to the Sava River embankment and Lakes
Jarun and Bundek.
By walking the river embankment you can spot the socalled ‘Kockica’ building that was built in the early 1960’s,
a thorough example of socialist architecture. It was built
according to a project created by the great Croatian architect Ivan Vitić. Also, the ‘Croatian Radio and Television’
building isn’t hard to miss. The ‘Alley of Sculptures’ is the
largest open-air gallery in Zagreb with 11 sculptures of
Croatian sculptors to choose for that perfect selfie. Also,
the Sava embankment has a view of the ‘greenbridge’ or
Savski Most (Sava Bridge) which Zagrebians know as the
‘Hendrix’ bridge because of the graffiti dedicated to the
rock legend which has been written on it for years. Despite the number of times authorities have repainted the
bridge, graffiti artists always manage to respray the sign in
its rightful place. In addition to the aforementioned bridge,
Zagreb’s Sava bridges are a set of road, rail and pedestrian
bridges that connect the left and right banks of the Sava
The Sava River embankment also offers many opportunities for sports activities where one can walk, jog solo or join
an organised running group. Eager beavers who love to
cycle can ride all the way to Sveta Nedelja along a route
that is 16km long (route details can be found at ).
There’s fun for everyone along the left bank where there are
several landscaped grounds for tennis, football, and basketball. And on the embankment itself near the suburb of
Savica, one can find 2 iron bikes and we dare you to head

On the right bank of the Sava River after the Most Slobode
(Bridge of Freedom), there is the exquisite Lake Bundek
and park where one can enjoy various sports activities (cycling, inline skating, roller blading, walking and jogging).
Barbecues and small wooden cafes are about! Whilst on
the left bank of the Sava and before the Savski Most there is
the Sports and Recreational Centre Jarun. At Lake Jarun
visitors can row, sail, cycle, roller-blade, jog and do much
more. The Sports and Recreation Centre Mladost is just
before Jarun and a top destination all year round with both
indoor and outdoor pool facilities.
If you’re feeling peckish and fancy a meal, there are several eateries along the Sava River and its embankment. For
those wanting pizza and pasta, there is Stara Sava (Savska
Street 208), or Pizzeria Helena Jarun (Županići Street
1). For something a bit meatier or off the BBQ, meaning
meat rolls, burgers and kebabs, definitely visit NK Sava
(Gredice 157). Feel like some Italian cuisine, then visit the
Restaurant Pizzeria Oliva (Jarunska 5), or visit the restaurant Balon located near Boćarski dom (Prisavlje 2).
Once dinner is done, coffee and dessert is calling and you
can choose from the numerous cafes in and around Park
Bundek, Lake Jarun and Boćarski dom.
As for Nightlife on the river Sava, the once popular clubs
on rafts ‘Papilon’ and ‘Sidro’ are in poor condition and not in
function. But, there is a retreat and that is in the newly renovated ‘Brazil Boat’on the River and its open from Wednesdays to Saturdays, more information can be found on their
Facebook page. For those craving something purely
heavier to alternative in terms of music, there are lots of
gigs and live performances to exhibitions at Club Močvara
(Trnjanski nasip bb). Event details can be tracked down
at: or Pogon Jedinstvo - Zagreb’s
Centre for Independent Culture and Youth (Trnjanski
nasip bb ),

Finally, see one fun filled part of Zagreb at the city’s largest flea market named ‘Hrelić’ which takes place every
Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday. The quickest way to
get there is via bus number 295 which runs daily from
Zapruđe Station, the timetable can be seen at
All in all, the Sava River still gives Zagrebians and its visitors so much to do and see, so take the time to visit the
lifeline of the city. Have a picnic, or go for a walk, either
way, it’s a nice way to see an integral part of the past and

Zagreb 1978., washing cars on river Sava - Photo by Pavao Cajzek

Jarun Lake - Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Sound Art Inkubator 2013. - Photo by Sara B. Moritz
Močvara Gallery Archives

Spring 2016 11

Culture & Events

Culture & Events
Rock & Pop Concerts
15.04 Friday
Gustafi - Maneštra
This cult Istrian band is touring in support of their eleventh studio album spice fully named ‘Maneštra’, or in
the English language ‘Minestrone’. From classics to latest
hits such as ‘Hiti se na mene’ and ‘Za ljubav se ne moli’,
a night of eclectic blues, Tex-Mex and folk can be expected at the Tvornica Kulture venue, just like a true minestrone mix.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets
50 - 70kn.
27.04 Wednesday & 28.04 Thursday
Eric Sardinas and Big Motor
This US guitarist of Cuban descent returns to Zagreb once
again. Sardinas is known for his ambidextrous playing (artistry of playing with both hands) but also for the series of
materials that he uses to combine electric blues, country
and rock.QI‑4, Hard Place, Ulica hrvatske bratske zajed‑
nice 4, Tickets 90 - 130kn.

The Drops - Concert on April 25th at Teatar &TD, Muzički centar Archives

Classical Music Concert
23.04 Saturday
Lisinski on Saturday - Ivo Pogorelić:
Cycle within a Cycle
Dubbed as a genius, eccentric, and uncanny musician,
which probably explains why he is praised and glorified
by musicians and critics alike. Pogorelić returns to his
home turf and is set to bedazzle the audience at Lisinski
again with his emotive and heart-warming interpretations of Stravinsky, Brahms, Schumann, Liszt and others.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana
Radića 4, Concert starts at 19:30. 160
- 240kn.

Opera, Operetta & Ballet
16.04 Saturday
Georg Friedrich Händel - Agrippina
Händel’s first opera masterpiece in three acts is based
on internal royal family schemes as led by the Roman
Empress Agrippina. Despite initial praise, Händel’s opera
remained somewhat forgotten until the 20th century
when his repertoire was restored and returned to glory.
The Croatian production of Agrippina was produced by
the Music Academy in Zagreb.QB‑3, Croatian National
Theatre, Trg maršala Tita 15, Starts at
19:30. Performances also on 20th and 22nd April.
13.05 Friday
Lisinski Arioso - Dmitri Hvorostovsky
If there are seven wonders of world opera, then Hvorostovsky might well be one of them. The magnificent Russian baritone known for his technical virtuosity and vocal
softness is set to grace the Lisinski stage. The repertoire
12 Zagreb In Your Pocket

will include works from Mussorgsky, Tchaikovsky, Rachmaninoff, Borodin, Rossini and Verdi. Konstantin Orbeliani
will conduct proceedings along with guest soprano Asmik
Grigorian and the Kaunas City Symphony Orchestra.QI‑3,
Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, Concert starts at 19:30. Tickets 260 320kn.

05.05 Thursday - 07.05 Saturday
Young Dubrovnik pop rock group Silente caught the attention of both the Croatian media and public with their
first hit single ‘Terca na tišinu’ which topped national
charts and won awards in 2013/2014. Silente was nominated for many national music awards.QSax!, Palmotićeva
22, Tickets 50 - 70kn.

20.05 Friday
Kurt Weill and Bertolt Brecht - The
Threepenny Opera
Originally, ‘The Threepenny Opera’ was an early example
of a musical comedy and in this new production, which
will be conducted by Ivan Josip Škender and directed by
the French playwright Pascal Rambert, is in fact a satire of
the traditional opera with songs that have become popular standards, especially ‘The Ballad of Mack the Knife’
and ‘Pirate Jenny’.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg
maršala Tita 15,

06.05 Friday
Three years have passed since this American based TexMex, indie rock band last visited our capital. Joey Burns
and John Convertino still lead Calexico which is touring in
support of their latest album ‘Edge of the Sun’ and which
happens to be their best commercially sold album to date,
making them amongst the 30 best-selling artists around
the world.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets
140 - 170kn.

02.07 Saturday
Bruno Bjelinski and Giorgio Madia Peter Pan
Once upon a time in the land of Never Land lived Peter Pan
and Tinker Bell… and so the classic fairy tale goes. Now
a new and reinvigorated version is set to premiere which
is based on Croatia’s Bruno Bjelinski’s famous 1966 rendition which premiered at the Croatian National Theatre that
same year. And 50 years on, his work turns a new leaf with
Italian choreographer Giorgio Madia putting his stamp on
this enchanting story.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre,
Trg maršala Tita 15,

08.05 Sunday
Enrique Iglesias - Sex and Love
Latino legend Enrique is set to spruce up Arena Zagreb this
coming May with his new world tour. Chart topping hits
such as ‘Bailando’, ‘Turn up the night’, ‘I like it’ and ‘Hero’
are just some of the classics you can hear. This particular
event will be extra special as Enrique will be celebrating
his 40th birthday that day. Light the candles, pop on some
party hats and let the night begin…QH‑5, Arena Zagreb,
Ulica Vice Vukova 8, Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 219 - 759kn.

07.06 Tuesday
Zakk Wylde
To coincide with the 20th anniversary of ‘Book of Shadows’, Wylde has recently released a Part 2 version of the
album and will tour the old continent; Wylde is known for
his amazing finger tapping on the electric guitar and came
to fame when he began playing with Ozzy Osbourne in
1987. He is the founder of the band ‘Black Label Society’
and one of the most highly respected rock guitarists
of this era.QE‑3, Tvornica Kulture, Šubićeva 2, www. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
150 - 210kn.
08.07 Friday
Mac DeMarco
Organisers of the ‘SuperUho festival’ announce the return
of the popular musician Mac DeMarco. It has been almost
three years since DeMarco’s Zagreb premier which was
made memorable for his stage humour. This indie rock
artist with his casual and unburdened attitude can work
up a crowd and pop some great tunes at the same time; all
amidst a few cigarettes in between.QI‑3, Large Yard be‑
hind Močvara Club / Pogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip
bb, Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets
80 - 120kn.

11.04 Monday - 29.04 Friday
Platforma HR
Join the mix of choreographers, dance artists and groups
that unite to present their experiences, ideas and individual dance approaches through shows, workshops and
lectures. Creativity is the key and this really is the meet and
greet of the regional dance scene.QPogon Jedinstvo,
Trnjanski nasip bb; Tala Dance Centre, Božidara Magov‑
ca 50; Flower Sqare, Trg Petra Preradovića,

Boris Bućan, 29th Split Summer Festival, HNK Split
1983., Screen print - MSU Archives

Spring 2016 13

Culture & Events
15.04 Friday
The LADO Ensemble and KOLO Ensemble Full-night dance concert
LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded
in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible
for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of
over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal
and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by experts who delve deep into the past but also
consider that the folk tradition is created by the people,
is alive and free to express itself. LADO really is a national
treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them,
you won’t be disappointed. This time LADO will be joined
on stage by the national folk dance ensemble KOLO from
Serbia.QB‑3, Croatian National Theatre, Trg maršala
Tita 15,
26.05 Thursday - 04.06 Saturday
Dance Week Festival
The Zagreb Dance Centre is home to organising committee for this festival, dedicated to all lovers of dance, regardless of preferred genre. If we were to list all the styles of
dance which will be on show, we would take up more
than a few pages. Needless to say that there will almost
definitely be something to suit all tastes. Included are also
a number of symposia, with noted choreographers and
dancers, examining the evolution of dance, its past, its future, and other themes within the art. Equally accessibly
to aficionados and those who simply appreciate a good
performance.QC‑2, Zagreb Dance Centre, Ilica 10, www.

11.12 2015 Friday - 23.04 2016 Saturday
Aquae Iasae - Recent Discoveries
Of Roman Remains In The Region Of
Varaždinske Toplice
In the Varaždin spa region, where there is a medicinal thermal water spring, Roman Aquae Iasae settlements from
the 1st - 4th century can be found. Here a complex in various stages of construction was discovered, which consists
of baths and temples that were built around the natural
spring. This exhibition will present recent research results,
from 2011 - 2013, of numerous inscriptions, sculptures,
reliefs and Romans coins which were discovered.QC‑2,
Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića
Zrinskog 19,
11.12 2015 Friday - 31.05 2016 Tuesday
Magical Company - Beliefs In Supernatural Beings In The Podravina Area
This exciting exhibition is divided according to supernatural beings, from elves and fairies, to witches and many
other legendary characters. The exhibition will show the
transformation of these supernatural characters through
time, from traditional folk legends to our modern pop
culture. The characters, photographed by award-winning
photographer Iva Lulić, will be displayed in their natural
fairytale forest environment.QB‑3, Ethnographic Mu‑
seum, Trg Mažuranića 14,
16.02 Tuesday - 08.05 Sunday
Menci Clement Crnčić – Retrospective
In marking the 150th anniversary since the birth of the artist, this retrospective will present Crnčić’s finest artworks
which had deemed him as one of the best of his time. His
forte was local landscape paintings, shades of winds and
storms at sea, the Mediterranean, panoramas and more.
Crnčić held a father-figure status in the scene as he was
in many ways an inspiration to numerous future Croatian
greats.QC‑1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4,
10.03 Thursday - 14.08 Sunday
Exhibition ‘45’
Get a true insight into the wounds and wonders of the
Croatian people in 1945 and beyond, the year which
finally ended WW2 but to this day still has its scars and
unresolved disputes. The exhibition presents key historical, political, cultural and social events relating to Croatia
taken from 69 national and international museums, and 22
private lenders. From literature to the Church, Bleiburg to
Communism, fashion to cartoons, fine arts to architecture
and more, little is left untold.QB‑1, Croatian History Mu‑
seum, Matoševa 9,

Anna Calvi - Photo by Roger Deckker, Reflektor Festival Archives

14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Culture & Events
early Iron Age. These findings represent the remains of
the Hallstatt culture and show the economic wealth and
strength of this Iron Age population to be one of the richest Iron Age findings in the southeastern area.QC‑1, Zagreb
City Museum, Opatička 20,

The World Festival of Animated Film - AnimaFest Zagreb

Simply Red - Zagreb Calling Archives

11.03 Friday - 24.04 Sunday
Bachrach & Krištofić
As part of the local art scene, Sanja Bachrach and Mario
Krištofić, are one of the most popular artist couples and
are well-known for their rock and roll style, which comes
to life in their designs and photography. This exhibition
will display different works from their 35 year career.QB‑3,
Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita 10, www.
15.03 Tuesday - 17.04 Sunday
Dražen Trogrlić - An Intimate Universe
2000 – 2015 (Paintings, Sculptures, Drawings)
At this exhibition, more than one hundred different works,
including paintings, drawings, watercolors, prints and
sculptures from the period 2000 - 2015 by the artist Dražen
Trogrlić will be presented. Don’t miss out on seeing these
great works by this modern artist.QC‑3, Modern Gallery,
Andrije Hebranga 1,
16.03 Wednesday - 15.05 Sunday
Budinjak – the field of tumuli: archaeological investigations 1995 – 2014
Budinjak is located in the central area of the Žumberak
Mountains at a height of 740 m above sea level, about 50
km west of Zagreb. Near the village a plateau is located
where there is a large necropolis burial mound from the
16 Zagreb In Your Pocket

18.03 Friday - 17.04 Sunday
Dalibor Martinis - DM 2016 Talks With DM
This project was specifically designed for the Art Pavilion in
which Dalibor Martinis questions and analyzes the world of
media. Martinis is one of the most prominent contemporary
Croatian artists and one of the pioneers of video art in Croatia. His work includes a variety of videos and performances
in public spaces and has been displayed in many prominent
art centers, such as the Kunsthaus in Zürich and the Stedelijk Museum in Amsterdam.QC‑3, Art Pavilion, Trg kralja
Tomislava 22,
Nives Kavurić Kurtović - Retrospective /
A painter and academic who changed the view of Surrealism and other ‘isms’ in Croatian fine arts of the 20th and 21st
century. Kurtović held her first exhibition in 1963 with paintings, ink and pen on white paper. Her oeuvre and status
had changed with time where today’s audience can see her
paintings in oil, or in large format with over 200 of her complex and most intriguing works presented.QC‑1, Klovićevi
dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg 4,
14.04 Thursday - 29.05 Sunday
Boris Bućan - Breakfast at the Printing
Factory - A selection from the Collection of Posters
Bućan is one of the doyens of Croatian Graphic Design who
started his career in the late 60s. This chronological exhibition will present up to 80 posters in large format and many
more dating from the early 70s to the late 90’s. An accompanying catalogue will be printed with samples of his works
and paintings, as well as responses from acclaimed foreign
experts, writers and critics.QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Mu‑
seum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17,
26.04 Tuesday - 29.05 Sunday
Dalibor Jelavić - a Critical Retrospective
1976 - 2016
As part of the series entitled ‘Painting retrospectives of the
Modern Gallery’, a selection of 120 of the best works from
Jelavić’s oeuvre, which is made up of oils, drawings, prints,
tapestries and enamels that were generated more than four
decades ago, will be showcased. Jelavić is known for his
expressive gestures and powerful colours making him one
of the most impressive verticals of contemporary Croatian
abstract art.QC‑3, Modern Gallery, Andrije Hebranga 1,

Culture & Events

Culture & Events
28.04 Thursday - 26.06 Sunday
Ivo Dulčić’s Mediterranean – Marking
the centenary of the artist’s birth
A Dalmatian devotee to art most known for his religious
and earthly themes; in celebration of 100 years since
Dulčić’s birth, the exhibition focuses on one of the special
aspects of his work - motifs of Mediterranean landscapes,
regions, scenery and light, which too many is where he
achieved the fullness of his artistic potential.QC‑3, Art
Pavilion in Zagreb, Trg kralja Tomislava 22, www.
Dolomiti – National Geographic Croatia
and Georg Tappeiner
Get a first glance of the Dolomites with their spectacular
mountain ranges, romantic alpine meadows and deep blue
lakes. In this travelling photo exhibition, renowned photographer Georg Tappeiner even captures meteors dispersing
across the skyline above the mountains and lit like flames. In
this bond between man and mountains, we are also reminded of the need to protect our planet.QC‑2, Archaeological
Museum In Zagreb, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, www.

Alimov - The 6th Biennial of Illustration, Klovićevi dvori Archives
Protein Dance - Kip Johnson and Sally Marie in LOL (Lots of Love) Photo by Nino Santos, Dance Week Festival Archives

18.05 Wednesday - 21.08 Sunday
The Magnificent Vranyczanys - An Artistic, Historical and Political Framework
of the Family
Paying respect to this amazing noble family that has
given so much to Croatia and its cities. The Vranyczanys
included great philanthropists, patrons, donors and collectors, builders of representative structures, successful
and progressive businessmen and drivers of social life in
the cities in which they had lived (Stari Grad on Hvar, Senj,
Rijeka, Karlovac, and Zagreb). Two years in the making, see
historical documents, artefacts, artworks, archived works
and more. A catalogue will highlight the indelible mark
that the family has left with guided tours and concerts
accompanying the exhibition!QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Mu‑
seum, Trg maršala Tita 10,
The 6th Biennial of Illustration
Illustration has become the summer sensation at the
Klovićevi dvori Gallery with another trademark event. Foreign
curators from Russia and Japan are set to partake with the focus of showing, explaining and documenting illustrations and
animations, and an invited competition for Croatian authors
based on the connection between book illustrations and
animation will be had. See all the latest solutions and innovations in the field!QC‑1, Klovićevi Dvori Gallery, Jezuitski trg
18 Zagreb In Your Pocket

16.06 Thursday - 15.08 Monday
The Wild West - A History of Wroclaw’s
Though behind the iron curtain, the city of Wroclaw in Poland flourished in the 1960s and 70s in terms of art. It was a
true phenomenon and this exhibition presents works of art,
documentaries, photos and footage - almost 500 works of
visual arts, architecture, theatre, film and design, capturing
everyday life in Wroclaw through the eyes of avant-garde
artists that had given art and culture meaning in such times!
A comprehensive catalogue will accompany the exhibition.
QJ‑4, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17,

Special events
09.04 Saturday - 16.04 Saturday
Festival of Tolerance - 10th Jewish Film
Festival Zagreb
It isn’t Hollywood or Bollywood but this popular film festival serves its purpose in promoting Jewish film, themes
and culture. It’s steered by the festival’s president and double Oscar winner Mr Branko Lustig. Be sure to stay tuned for
session details!QEuropa Cinema, Varšavska 3; Tuškanac
Cinema, Tuškanac 1,
18.04 Monday - 14.10 Friday
Zagreb Time Machine
Step back in time to the days of old Zagreb style, stroll to
Zrinjevac Park and each Saturday you can take pleasure

in waltz, operettas, Italian canzone, jazz and more. From
Tkalčićeva Street to the Cathedral, delve into some traditional foods through song and folklore. The Upper Town
dazzles with costumed characters that have come back to
life and giving visitors an insight into the way life... once was!
The Tourist Information Centre has all the details as events
vary throughout the morning and afternoon.Qwww.
22.04 Friday - 24.04 Sunday
Swing City Festival
Lovers of dance look out as a multitude of dance workshops
will be held by top local and international instructors. From
beginners to experienced dancers, all are welcome to learn
some classic dances including the Lindy Hop, Authentic Jazz,
Charleston, Collegiate Shag, Blues and more. Its retro flair
all the way and evening parties as well as dancing on the
street of the city centre will add to the spice.QI‑4, Dance,
Sport and Fitness Centre, Savska 120, www.swingcity. Full Pass 456 - 608kn.
23.04 Saturday - 02.10 Sunday
The Changing of the Guard
A Croatian regiment named ‘The Royal Cravats’ joined the
French Army in the 17th century and in their honour, every weekend at midday you can see a two hour ceremony
which begins with the ‘Preparation of the Guard and Arms
Inspection’. March from St Marks Square to other city sites
amongst some of the finest well dressed guards, drummers,
flag-bearers and
Spring 2016 19

Culture & Events

Culture & Events
26.05 Thursday - 05.06 Sunday
The 20th Cest is d’Best
Annual street festival packed with free concerts, circus attractions, dance, art shows plus much more. According to tradition,
it is the audience that gets involved and participates.Qwww.

Dražen Trogrlić - Zvijezda Mediterana, 2011.
Photo by Goran Vranić, Modern Gallery Archives

Gustafi - Maneštra

Dražen Trogrlić - Svetac, 2000.
Photo by Goran Vranić, Modern Gallery Archives

03.05 Tuesday - 08.05 Sunday
Design Week Zagreb
For the second time in Croatia, welcome to a series of
events and gatherings not only for designers, but art historians, economists, journalists and the general public
alike. Lectures, exhibitions, workshops and awards will
draw public attention as a promotion of creativity and
invention.QH‑3, Lauba – The House for People and
Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a,
04.05 Wednesday - 07.05 Saturday
The Showcase of a Contemporary
With its openness to new, experimental and technologically developed contemporary sounds, this music festival is slowly cementing its place as an event which brings
a breath of fresh air to the Croatian contemporary music
scene. Its open and unlimited concept with no specific
genres and musical styles makes it both unconventional
yet very creative. Stay tuned for line-up announcements.
QB‑4, Student’s Centre, Savska cesta 25, www.izlog.
20 Zagreb In Your Pocket

30.05 Monday - 05.06 Sunday
Floraart 2016 - International Garden
Flower power takes on Zagreb! Being one of the biggest horticultural events in Europe, hundreds of exhibitors from Croatia
and the rest of the world turn Bundek Park into an oasis of beautiful flowers and colours. A whole range of events will include
the Florists Croatian Cup to lectures, workshops, concerts and a
special program for children in Floragrad. Free admission to all
events!QJ‑4, Bundek Park,

Side Project - Reflektor Festival

25.04 Monday - 08.05 Sunday
The Saint Mark’s Festival
Followers of classical music and in particular chamber and
sacral music will be able to see renowned soloists and
ensembles from Croatia and abroad. Concerts are held at
various venues and churches in the city’s Upper and Lower

28.05 Saturday - 29.05 Sunday
Head out to the small village of Lukavec, towards Velika Gorica
for this festival of myths, legends and stories. The castle and its
surrounding woods are the perfect setting to meet some of the
dragons from various Croatian legends, there are old crafts for
show, treasure to be found and much more for both children
and adults alike.QLukavec, Entrance

16.05 Monday - 22.05 Sunday
Zagreb Book Festival 2016: Ireland – The
Promised Land
In promotion of reading and writing, this is a much needed event with the strengthening of new media; the 5,000
books available can vindicate that. More so, this year’s
host country is ‘Ireland’, a nation known for its strong literary tradition and the audience will get to meet and greet
some of the best contemporary Irish and Croatian writers.
Two countries with so much in common, and so much to
share!QB‑3, Arts and Crafts Museum, Trg maršala Tita
18.05 Wednesday
International Museum Day
The Museum Documentation Centre (MDC) alongside
many Croatian museums will organise over 200 different
events, exhibitions, workshops, lectures and concerts. So
if you love your fair share of history and art come and celebrate with the city of
20.05 Friday - 05.06 Sunday
Screen on the Green
The Open Air Festival of Films will take place in the most
popular parks around the city. Film screenings are free of
charge and visitors can enjoy some of the most films from
around the world. So, pick up a blanket and some snacks
and come lounge in the park with your loved ones. Watch
a movie under the stars for a unique, new experience.

End of May - Mid of September
Strossmartre - Summer on Stross
Embark on a journey towards the Strossmayer Promenade, next
to the Lotršćak Tower and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the
range of music, film, theatre, fine art and entertainment on offer. The programme is daily with kick off before midday as the
festival runs into the evening. Totally romantic, totally free!QB‑2,
Strossmayer Promenade,
03.06 Friday - 04.06 Saturday
Reflektor Art and Music Festival
This is the new kid on the block in terms of festivals, a boutique
type festival with lots of international and local flavour and
flair. The two day event is set at Tuškanac in the heart of town
with two female singers and songwriters in UK artist Ana Calvi
and our very own Lovely Quinces (Dunja Ercegović) headlining, electro-pop attraction Side Project will follow. Day two
sees the alternative rock duo Blood Red Shoes and another
rock act in Jonathan from Rijeka performing. This event will be
boasted by exhibitions, readings and an after party programme.
QB‑1, Tuškanac Cinema Plateau,
reflektorfest. Starts at 19:00. Tickets 60 - 140kn.
04.06 Saturday - 05.06 Sunday
The 31st Old-timer Rally
Vroom vroom! This fair and rally of vintage cars and motorcycles
has been running for over three decades and has become a twoday trademark city event; bringing back the good old days for
many and giving the new generation an eye-catching glimpse
of former beauties that used to rule the streets!QVarious loca‑
tions across city,

the 15th festival of the
european short story
29.05 Sunday - 03.06 Friday
Short, sweet, dynamic and packed with loads of fun is
the best way to describe the European Short Story Festival, an international literary festival in Zagreb which
every year brings together the world’s best writers and
winners of the most respected literary prizes such as the
Pulitzer, the Man Booker Prize, the Independent, Strega,
Dublin IMPAC, Frank O’Connor or the American National
Book Award.
Literature lovers will lavish at the fact that various
award-winning writers from four different continents
will gather in Zagreb to discuss the most current of all
topics suitably titled ON/NO TRESSPASSING, thus defining the short story festival as equally rebellious and
almost as thorough as the topic of Europe.
Where are our borders and what is it that awaits us outside of them? When it comes to the ‘Short Story’, the
response may seem simple; no matter how different
they are, definitions always revolve around the number
of characters or the number of pages, the relationship
towards the plot and time or the literary forms which
delimit it - but what of the people who write stories?
What of those to whom the story is not fictional but a
true reality? What is ‘forbidden’ and ‘foreign’ to the author and how do they relate to the boundaries/bans?
Where do we stop in life and where with art? How is
and where is a writer’s passport valued - how does it
serve him while approaching the limits of language and
genre, ethical and poetic, cultural and social, political
and gender? And how does he cope with the restrictions that each of these bring?
The winner of the Independent Award and the only
person who received it for a book of stories written in
Arabic - Hassan Blas (Iraq /Finland); the winner of the
Prix Femina Kerry Hudson (Scotland /UK); the stars of
contemporary Mexican (Yuri Herrera) and Argentinian
literature (Samantha Schweblin and Andrés Neuman),
the best writers from neighbouring countries to Croatia
Drago Jančar (Slovenia), Faruk Šehić(Bosnia and Herzegovina) and Rumena Bužarovska (Macedonia); wellknown authors to the Croatian audience Frode Grytten
(Norway), Josip Novakovich (Canada) and Afonso Cruz
(Portugal) as well as those to whom we have not had
the pleasure of meeting as yet - Bel Olid (Catalonia/
Spain), Lina Wolff (Sweden), Cosmin Perţa (Romania),
and Rosella Milone (Italy). These are just some of the
guests of the festival who will present, read, discuss
and reflect on the aforementioned borders, helping
us to recognise them around us and perhaps exceed
them within ourselves.QTeatar &td, Savska 25; Booksa,
Martićeva 14d; Italian Cultural Institute, Preobraženska
4; Vinyl, Bogovićeva ulica 3; Bogdan Ogrizović Library,
Preradovićeva 5,
Spring 2016 21

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Culture & Events
06.06 Monday - 11.06 Saturday
The World Festival of Animated Film
- Animafest Zagreb
Are you passionate about animation? This is the second oldest festival of its kind in Europe which attracts intriguing world
animations. With awards, pitching forums and the advocacy
on animation essential to the event, it is of no wonder that it’s
a magnet for known and wannabe authors and producers in
16.06 Thursday - 19.06 Sunday
Design District Zagreb
An inspiring and creative four-day urban event catering to design lovers as well as the general public! It’s all about the changing look of city districts with aspontaneous organic renaissance taking place;the rise of galleries, farmer’s markets, cafes,
bookshops, florists etc. Expect numerous pop-up showcases,
site-specific art installations, rooftop events, exclusively guided
architectural tours, socially valuable designer concepts, gastro
& coffee spots, and educative and craft workshops.QVarious
locations across city centre,
17.06 Friday - 19.06 Sunday
Fireworks Festival
What better to warm up to summer then to see this grand
fireworks festival right by the River Sava. Venture down to Lake
Bundek as a myriad of beer tents and concerts provide the onground entertainment whereas the fireworks, which are held
every evening, will set the sky alive.QJ‑4, Bundek Lake, www.
20.06 Monday - 22.06 Wednesday
INmusic festival #11
Welcome to a smashing European festival which is in its 11th
year. Lake Jarun is home to some mega artists which this year
includes Florence and the Machine, PJ Harvey, Skunk Anansie,
Gutterdammerung featuring Henry Rollins, Jake Bugg, The
Kooks, Wilco and more. Crank it!QG‑4/5, Jarun Lake, www. Festival ticket: 300kn. Camping ticket:
22.06 wednesday - 23.06 thursday
Zagreb Calling
A double whammy of ‘music for the masses’ at the open air
Šalata venue with Mick Hucknall and his band ‘Simply Red’
headlining the first day and are sure to serenade the crowd with
their chart topping hits. Croatian icons Jinx and Natali Dizdar
will play on through the first night. Day two sees John Newman gracing the stage with his soulful voice and growing hits
including ‘Love me again, Losing Sleep, Out of my head, and
Feel the Love’ which were all world hits. QTickets 170 - 320kn.

Cest is d’best Archives

22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

24.06 Friday - 16.07 Saturday
Summer in MSU
The third edition of this highly successful multimedia program
filled with concerts, exhibitions, film screenings and international literature panels will once again take place at Zagreb’s
Museum of Contemporary Art.QJ-4, Contemporary Art Mu‑
seum, Avenija Dubrovnik 17,

27.06 Monday - 20.07 Wednesday
The 35th Zagreb Summer Evenings
A usual, this year’s edition of this prominent classical
music festival will once again host some of the best and
most renowned Croatian and international musicians,
soloists and chamber ensembles, do stay tuned for
the latest in the line-up.QC‑1, Klovićevi dvori Gallery,
Jezuitski trg 4,
30.06 Thursday - 09.07 Saturday
Fantastic Zagreb Film Festival
Let’s all have some fresh air, literally and artistically, with
a wonderful and refreshing range of top-notch films
from all over the world during this unique open-air film
festival. It’s an awesome week to contemplate movies
and stars that justly deserve the mental musings.
30.06 Thursday - 03.07 Sunday
Vintage Zagreb
Rockabilly is back, the best of the 40s, 50s and 60s can be
experienced at this suave festival of fashion, style, hairstyle, music, art and design. Swing is back, slicked hair is
in and the party begins. Be a part of this great Americana
type experience which gives Fonzie from the Happy
Days a stroll down memory lane.QC‑2, Ulica Augusta

John Newman - Zagreb Calling Archives

Spring 2016 23

Culture & Events

ALl jazzed up!
The beauty of jazz is that it can be any tempo, texture,
or rhythm, and it leaves room for improvisation where
the musician or group ‘go wild, go all out, and revel in
showing off their talents’. We know this ohhh too well
which explains why this Spring’s Zagreb Calendar is so

Kazushi Ono - Zagreb Philharmonic Orchestra Archives

Andrea Solomon & Ema Janković - Prison of Decision, Dance Week Festival Archives

Eric Sardinas
Gerriet K. Sharma - Photo by Kristijan Smok, Muzički centar Archives

06.04 Wednesday
HRT Jazz Orchestra feat. Terell Stafford - The Cat
Terell Stafford a trumpeter, composer, bandleader and
educator from New York, will be performing some of
his newest compositions with HRT Jazz Orchestra this
spring. This talented musician is head of the Jazz Orchestra of Philadelphia and a Lecturer at the Temple
University, and has performed with famous groups,
such as the Grammy-winning Vanguard Orchestra.
QJ‑4, Gorgona Hall, Contemporary Art Museum,
Avenija Dubrovnik 17, Concert starts
at 20:00. Tickets 50kn.
13.04 Wednesday - 16.04 Saturday 2016
The Vatroslav Lisinski Small Concert Hall will be illuminated once again with this cracking annual Jazz event.
The four day bonanaza will include the Joachim Kühn,
then there is NeTTwork which is known for its distinctive sound and spectacular improvisations of jazz
standards, and that of other genres too. Ratko Vojtek
Solo is Croatia’s bad boy of jazz who is known for his
unconvential yet breathtaking piano work and finally
Czech jazz bassist Miroslav Vitous will be joined by the
Croatian Radio and Television’s Jazz Orchestra, Vitous
is known as one of the most creative improvisers of
jazz double bass today.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Small
Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4,
Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 70kn.
04.05 Wednesday
Croatian Radio and Television Jazz
Orchestra - Tu fragancia: Miron
Hauser’s Artist’s Night
After Kadoić, Križić, Kovačević, Žužić and Marinello,
Miron Hauser gets to steal this year’s limelight. Hauser
is the orchestra’s trombonist who studied jazz at the
Universities of Graz and Trieste and finds his inspiration
mostly in the Latin style, therefore a lush brass section
and richness of rhythms can be expected which he’ll
blend into his own virtuoso expression and style.QJ‑4,
Gorgona Hall, Contemporary Art Museum, Avenija
Dubrovnik 17, Concert starts at 20:00.
24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Didov san
Authentic Dalmatian cuisine, we recommend the beef
and lamb roast cooked in the traditional ‘ispod peke’ style.
The prosciutto, homemade sausages and freshly baked
bread are to die for. Fresh desserts and a proud wine selection make for a fine way to dine. Also at Bencekovićeva
28.QB‑1, Mletačka ulica 11, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 54/
(+385-) 091 484 20 61, [email protected], Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). P­A­L­G­W
A delightful restaurant in the suburb of Sesvete, just 15
minutes drive from Zagreb. It’s something like a converted
barn, with a superb raftered dining room, where they offer
up all kinds of meals with local and international accents
(such as fondue, flambeed dishes and chateaubriand).
The emphasis is definitely on meat - they have a game
section on the menu, and frogs’ legs. QVinogorska 55,
tel. (+385-1) 200 63 73, [email protected], www. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(65 - 110kn). P­L­N­G­B­W
Expensive and worth it, Okrugljak has a flawless reputation because of its star-studded ambience and food. At
the base of Medvednica.QD‑2, Mlinovi 28, tel. (+385-1)
467 41 12, [email protected],
Open 11:00 - 24:00. (65 - 175kn). P­A­L­E­G­B­W
Having recently undergone a major facelift there was
genuine curiosity as to how Pivana would emerge from it
all. Have no fear, because somehow the food is even better
now. More of a beer & pub food orientated menu, the only
complaint to be had is that the food tasted of ‘more’. Ribs,
burgers, and sauces abound. Tables with private taps are
available, and with the parent brewery putting more options on the market you’ll not have a bad time here.QH‑3,
Ilica 222, tel. (+385-1) 377 53 77. Open Mon - Wed 07:00
- 24:00, Thu - Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. P­A­L­G­B­X­W
Stari fijaker 900
A beer hall and a restaurant, this double agent is a favourite among locals and tourists alike. Located on the picturesque street Mesnička, which heads towards Upper Town,
Stari fijaker is popular for its beans, its low-key atmosphere
and its cuisine from the northern Croatian region of Zagorje. Homemade soups, fresh mushrooms, and an array
of duck, turkey and lamb dishes. A great choice of beers,
both domestic and international, is available in what is apparently one of Zagreb’s oldest beer halls.QB‑2, Mesnička
6, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 29/(+385-1) 483 12 36, info@, Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (30 - 80kn). P­A­G­X­W

Fajn Bistro Archives

Its grilled dishes are hard to beat and it’s especially well
known for its lamb meal. A great place to try some of the
traditional goodies, its outdoor dining opportunity is
perhaps the best in the centre of town, with candle-light
flickering as you move from anxious and disagreeable to
smooth and charming (finally). Highly recommended.
QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 10, tel. (+385-1) 481 14 27/(+385-1)
481 13 41, [email protected],
Open 10:00 - 23:30. (65 - 100kn). P­J­A­6­G­B­W

Meet the meat
Batak grill
A full review for Batak would literally take pages. This
restaurant chain already covers most of the city. Highly
trained and polite staff, the menu is always being kept
fresh. A recommendation is close to impossible to pick,
but if pushed you simply have to try the mazalica with
urnebes. Divine.QK‑2, Vlaška 115, tel. (+385-1) 466 43 31,
[email protected], Open 11:00 23:00. (35 - 70kn). P­T­A­6­V­G­B­X­S­W
Spring 2016 25


Clean lines, dark wood and cool lounge music make this a
gastronomic haven for the city´s younger generation. The
meat-based menu is pleasingly multinational in its orientation - you´ll definitely find something that takes you away
from the run of the mill. Excellent wines. Reserve in advance.
QI‑2, Medvedgradska 2, tel. (+385-1) 466 94 32, mano@, Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
(80 - 150kn). P­A­G­B­W

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Dubravkin put
Nestled in the peaceful greenery of Tuškanac, visitors to
this hide-away hot spot are welcomed with a wine-wall
entrance and swept away to Dalmatia with seafood delights. The understated, rustic exterior highlights the fresh
and elegant restaurant and wine bar. The vino selection
alone is worth the trek but we suggest donning your Sunday best with friends and an apetite for an unforgettable
fine-dining affair.QB‑1, Dubravkin put 2, tel. (+385-1)
483 49 75, [email protected], Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (90 - 150kn).

Zinfandels, named for a variety of grape which originated in
Croatia, specialises in light, Mediterranean-inspired food, using local and international know-how to best create great
dishes which resonate with regional authenticity. The huge
štrukli is well worth trying, and if you were to try two, no
one could fault you.QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1 (Esplanade Za‑
greb Hotel), tel. (+385-1) 456 66 44/(+385-1) 456 66 66,
[email protected], Open 06:00
- 23:00, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (130 - 220kn). P­A­G­B­W

Pleasantly furnished in rattan and wood, this trattoria offers
Mediteranean dishes, pasta, fresh salmon and tuna, plate salads and a great wine list.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 39, tel. (+385-1)
482 98 26, [email protected], Open 11:00 - 23:00. (57 - 290kn). J­A­G­

Locals find it supremely authentic - the fish is as rubbery
as a racquetball, which is evidently how momma’s been
doing it for the last millennium or so. If you want to understand the meaning of Dalmatia and you don’t want to
have to go far to do it, this is your place.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle
17, tel. (+385-1) 487 21 59, [email protected], Open 10:30 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (70 - 120kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

A little piece of Italy in the heart of Zagreb. Here you’ll find
the menu brimming with handmade pasta, sauce, and bread.
It’s a blend of Italian tradition, passion, and know-how, and
of course the almost stereotypical Italian chef singing in the
kitchen while preparing everything, show-cooking style. The
shelves are awash with wines on offer, and Cantina might well
be the only place in Zagreb (if not the entire country) where
you can get your hands on a sparkling red wine. There’s even
Italian beer on the menu. There’s talk of new locations opening soon, so get in there before everyone else learns about
it.QD‑2, Trg Drage Iblera 10, tel. (+385-) 091 592 59 03, Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:30 - 23:00.
Closed Sun. (18 - 65 kn). P­i ­T­J­A­B­S

Ribice i tri točkice
With colorfully whimsical, dream-like images of the Adriatic adorning each wall and window, treat all your senses
to a seaside dinner getaway at Fish and Three Dots in the
city’s center. Be sure to ask for the daily specials of fish, fish
and more fish offered at this seafood bistro that’s wrapped
in the heart-lifting artistry of Rijeka’s Vojo Radoičić.QC‑2,
Ulica Petra Preradovića 7/1, tel. (+385-1) 563 54 79,
[email protected], Open
12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 80kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

Satisfy your desire for the finest of Italian cuisine with this
robust menu offered in the heart of the city center. From
carpacci to dolci, each meal is delectable and complemented from a near endless selection of wines. While retaining
an atmosphere of top-class dining, the freshly renovated
bistro-style interior playfully invites guests to indulge and
enjoy.QC‑2, Teslina 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 23 31, carpaccio@, Open
11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 150kn). P­J­A­G­B­W

26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Chic & Cheerful
Enjoy a warm and hearty stew, or as the Croatians like to
call it, cušpajz, in this quaint little restaurant which feels
like a vegetable garden and is a delight to dine in. Slurp
your stew as you snuggle into a cozy little alcove indoors
or sit under a shaded canvas outdoors enjoying the sites
and sounds of the downtown. Everyday you can choose
between a veggie or meat cušpajz dish. The menu changes daily so you’ll never get bored and will want to come
back again and again for more.QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 9, tel.
(+385-1) 487 50 45, [email protected],
Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 38kn. P­J­N­G­B
Mali Bar
Understated fabulousness permeates this must-go spot
carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed,
happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the
decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a
tv-famous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+3851) 553 10 14, [email protected]. Open 12:30 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn). P­A­G­B­W
Sherry’s Wine & Bites
Sherry’s, once over by Dom Sportova, and now occupying
the former premises of Bistro Bardot in the courtyard facing Britanac. Here you could be excused for spending an
hour at least perusing the wines available, but it would be
an hour well spent. Croatian craft beer on tap, and some
vibrant and interesting items on the food menu. Try their
Sunday brunch, we think you’ll be pleased.QA‑2, Ilica 73
(in the yard), tel. (+385-1) 400 81 50/(+385-) 091 250 77
12, [email protected], Open 10:00 24:00, Wed - Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (35 - 160kn). P­T­J­

Thought by many to be the nicest Chinese in town, it’s
also in the best space: an elegant building overlooking the
landscaped Tomislav Square. There’s none of the OTT decor that you so often find in restaurants of this kind; in fact
it’s perfectly suited to a business meal. Food is consistently
top quality, and the service swift and professional. Also at
Nova Ves 88, tel. 466 78 26.QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 1, tel.
(+385-1) 484 12 18, [email protected],
Open 11:30 - 23:00. (29 - 125kn). P­A­G­W
Asia T House
Zagreb has seen a rise in non-regional cuisine in recent
months and years, and all of it very much welcomed indeed. Here, just around the corner from the main square,
you can call in for tea, coffee, beer, most of it with a distinct
Asian feel to it. But it’s not just a place for a break from
shopping, it’s a place TO shop, and to eat. The market is
expansive and offers a great many ingredients for the

geoning chefs among you, while the restaurant has a menu
packed full of familiar items, and some not so familiar. Connected to the Asia Gold restaurant, so you know it’s quality.
QC‑2, Vlaška 9, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 86, [email protected], Open 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 150kn).
California Burrito
Nestled neatly at the back of a courtyard, this eatery should
be considered an ideal place to stop at the end of the night, or
indeed as a quiet alternative to more central locations. A wide
selection of regional beers is available, as well as one Mexican
import, and is most suitable for a Friday evening after-work
wind-down.QB‑2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-) 095 169 64
73, [email protected], Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. (19 - 29kn). P­V­N­G­B­S­W
Royal India
Located by the Zagreb Cathedral, Royal India is the perfect
place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine. Situated in the
basement, the scent of incense greets you at the door and
creates a temple-like atmosphere. Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom
tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes. Be
careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most
of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy. Best of
all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes
with the freshest ingredients for the day.QC‑1, Kaptol 27, tel.
(+385-1) 468 09 65, [email protected], Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
(35 - 95kn). P­J­A­G­W
Spring 2016 27


Fajn Bistro
‘Fajn’ dining indeed here, as any regular will tell you. Well
known for its exceptionally friendly staff, Fajn is situated
in Zagreb’s Upper Town, well within striking distance of
a multitude of tourist sites, and Zagreb’s plentiful watering holes. Mediterranean, international and contemporary food is on offer, and the wine menu won’t disappoint.QB‑1, Vranyczanyeva 6, tel. (385-1) 485 14 11,
[email protected], Open
13:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (50 - 120kn). P­T­J­A­
Situated behind the Main Bus Station, Lateral is already
getting pretty good press from, for the most part it must
be said, weary travellers glad of being able to enjoy a
proper meal, and still be near their bus to the airport. The
food, the desserts, the wine list… No complaints can be
had. The hot chocolate brownie is definitely something
that will draw you back for seconds.QE‑4, Strojarska 22,
tel. (+385-1) 611 14 11/(+385-) 098 43 30 55, lateral@, Open 11:00
- 22:00. Closed Sun. (45 - 150kn). P­T­A­U­G­B­

Cantina Archives

Time Restaurant & Bar
Time, in a classical sense, might be fleeting, but this place
certainly isn’t. Perhaps better known to many as a great
bar, Time is also a restaurant serving Asian fusion food,
something not so common in Zagreb even a few years
ago. Whatever you order make sure you try the spring
rolls with duck.QC‑2, Petrinjska 7, tel. (+385-1) 333 36
60. Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat
09:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (70 - 160kn). P­T­J­A­

Bistro Jadranka
Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough
to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that
your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes
each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday.
Has an active Facebook account where you can find out
what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own
wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal
for a small surcharge.QI‑3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel.
(+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. (30 - 129kn). P­i ­A­G­B­S
28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Pod Zidom Coffee, Food & Wine Bar
Pod Zidom (Under the Wall) is a wine bar and bistro, it
offers dishes made from the fresh groceries which it gets
from the nearby Dolac market, a wide selection of Croatian
indigenous wines, as well as the usual array of cocktails
and refreshments. A must try is Ručak s Dolca (Lunch from
Dolac), as every ingredient is prepared with care, creativity,
and love. From 11:00 to 23:00, every day, Pod Zidom has
a special a la carte menu, featuring beef carpaccio, pork
sliders, agnolotti with rabbit ragu, spring asparagus and
broad beans risotto, chicken drumstick-thigh cooked in a
vacuum, liquid chocolate cake. QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel.
(+385-) 098 66 96 90, [email protected]. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (30 - 75kn). E­B

Eat in or have it delivered, Franky’s is situated just north
of Zagreb’s nightlife district in the Kaptol Centre (2nd
floor), so is a handy place to grab a bite (and have a drink)
before heading home, and in relative peace and quiet
too. Do your shopping, settle in for a meal, enjoy a glass
of wine. Franky’s does white pizza, which is not always
something you’ll see in any pizzeria.QI‑2, Nova ves 17,
tel. (+385-1) 486 08 34, [email protected]. Open
10:00 - 22:45. (22 - 63kn). P­T­J­A­U­L­V­G­B­

kod Žaca
If you’ve not heard of this place then you’ve not spoken
to anyone living within its delivery radius. Known for its
pizza and lasagne you could probably eat here all month
long and still have something new to try. Zagreb is truly
blessed when it comes to pizza, and it’s nigh impossible to
suggest a must-try for here…but the biftek pizza probably
edges it.QJ‑2, Nike Grškovića 4, tel. (+385-1) 468 41 78, Open 10:00 - 24:00. (40 - 70kn).
O’Hara’s is well known throughout Zagreb, having seen
their pizza chefs win award after award, after award. The
western suburbs of the capital might seem an odd place
for a pizzeria such as this, but the locals aren’t complaining, and nor are the many others who travel across the
city to eat here. Everything tastes divine, and while you
might come away thinking you could have eaten more,
you will not feel the least bit hungry. That’s a guarantee.
QF‑3, I.B.Mažuranić 1b, tel. (+385-1) 379 21 12, www. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (39
- 86kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­S
Zero Zero
Zero Zero sits near a corner of Vlaška, not far from the
tramline, and it’s transport you’ll need after eating here…
The pizzas are HUGE, and taste of more. The food is Neapolitan, and we’d love to tell you more about the décor
and general surrounds, but the meat and seafood pizzas
kept the reviewers glued to their plates. Great for dates,
family gatherings, or even a solo trip.QD‑2, Vlaška 35,
tel. (+385-1) 889 70 00. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 23:00. (20 - 69kn). P­T­J­A­U­G­B­X­W

repast. Kitchen closes at 22:00QB‑2, Masarykova 11/1, tel.
(+385-1) 889 74 44/(+385-) 099 254 69 59, contactzagreb@, Open
12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (49 - 69kn). P­T­J­A­6­
Šumski Kuhar Bistro
Slap bang in the middle of the bustling centre, this first
floor venue feels like it could be miles from any noise whatsoever. All ingredients are sourced in Croatia where possible, and the dessert menu would put many slastičarnice
to shame.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 481 96 34,
[email protected],
Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 55kn). P­J­A­
Zrno Bio Bistro
100% organic food, the only place in Croatia which can
boast such a thing, it also a decent selection of regional
wines available. The interior is warm in appearance, with
a narrow terrace outside if the weather allows. There’s a
bookstore in the basement as well, for budding architects.
QB‑2, Medulićeva 20, tel. (+385-1) 484 75 40, restoran@, Open 12:00 - 21:30.
Closed Sun. (45 - 59kn). P­A­6­G­B­W

Join the conversation with IYP


Vege Restaurants

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

The menu has adequate depth and variety, and you’ll see
a wonderful mix of cold raw, and hot cooked vegetarian
dishes. The menu also contains vegan and gluten-free
dishes for those more in tune with Mother Nature. Enjoy the local wines, beers, and home-made juices that
Nishta has to offer. Staff is very helpful and will assist in
choosing an option for those unfamiliar with vegetarian

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

29 Zagreb
In Your Pocket

Spring 2016 29


Bistroteka Archives

Local Flavour

hit the market

Bistro Fotić
Vegetarian quiche with ham, omelets, coffee, freshly
squeezed oranges, fried bread, whole-grain groat, eggs,
apple and cheese strudel.QC‑3, Gajeva 25, tel. (+385-1)
481 04 76, [email protected], www.bistrofotic.
com. Breakfast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 11:00. Closed
Sun. (20 - 40kn). i­J

If you love your food and enjoy cooking, you won’t want to
miss the farmers’ markets. Zagreb has over 20 of them; most
neighbourhoods have at least a few stalls selling fruit and
vegetables, while at the larger markets you’ll also find meat,
fish, dairy produce and a whole lot more.

Oatmeal, porridge, scrambled eggs, poached eggs, quinoa, and sandwiches with avocado.QC‑2, Nikole Tesle 14,
tel. (+385-1) 483 77 11, Breakfast is
served: Mon - Fri 08:00 - 11:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed
Sun. (19 - 30kn). i­J
Johann Franck
Homemade cheese and sour cream, bacon and onion, gluten-free bread, omelet with cheese and mushrooms, turkey
sandwich with mozzarella, toast, croissants with chocolate
and jam.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, johann.franck@, Break‑
fast is served: Mon - Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. (25
- 40kn). i­J
Kava Tava
How do you like your eggs? Cooked, scrambled or sunnyside-up? Not to mention bacon ‘n’ eggs, sausages ‘n’ eggs,
toasts, Yankee Doodle pancakes, cottage cheese with
cream, tortillas.QA‑2; C‑2, Britanski trg & Tkalčićeva ulica
12, [email protected], Breakfast is
served: 07:00 - 24:00. (14 - 110kn). i­J

Johann Franck Archives
Cantina Archives

Louie Cafe & Kitchen
English breakfast (eggs, bacon, sausages and mushrooms),
a protein smoothie, yogurt with chia seeds, croissants, muffins, homemade focaccia with chicken, roast beef sandwiches and burgers.QC‑1, Nova Ves 19, tel. (+385-1) 466
61 59. Breakfast is served: Mon - Thu, Sun 08:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. (18 - 58kn). i­J
Mundoaka Street Food - Food with
Heart and Soul
Poached eggs with salmon, brioche, toast, croissants, and
muffin.QC‑2, Petrinjska 2, tel. (+385-1) 788 87 77, info@ Breakfast is served: Mon Sat 09:00 - 11:30. Closed Sun. (35 - 45kn). i­J
The Brick Booze & Bites
The menu sways more towards Istrian cuisine offering
scrambled eggs with truffles, omul, asparagus, coffee,
juice, champagne, bread with jam, pancakes, sandwiches
with Istrian prosciutto and cheese, and Istrian fritters
(pancake with Istrian curd and honey)QC‑1, Radićeva 36,
[email protected]. Breakfast is served:
Mon - Thu, Sun 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (3555kn). i­J

30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

The charms of open-air markets are known far and wide.
Piles of produce gleaming in the sun; the local colour, the
lively atmosphere. However, for outsiders it can be a daunting experience. You have to find a way to communicate with
the stallholders. While the locals develop relationships with
their favourite stallholders over years, you’re here just for the
weekend. How can you be sure you’re not short-changed or
given spoiled produce?
​ on’t be fooled into thinking that just because this is an
open-air market everything is as local as it is picturesque. If
you look carefully you can spot the importers - the fruit is
a little too regular in shape; the produce is not as fresh as it
might be; the produce on sale is out of season and its packaging belies its foreign origins. The beauty of the market is
buying veg that was picked early this morning (or yesterday
at the latest). It’s travelled into town in a big chequered bag
with the lady from the surrounding countryside - these ladies
are known as kumice and for their years spent supplying the
city’s markets they’ve earned their own statue at the top of
the steps on Dolac market (C-2). Or it might be trucked in
from the coast where it’s spent its life under the warm Dalmatian sun.
See that bit of mud on the roots of your spinach? That’s a
good sign that tells you this is the real deal. This food wasn’t
raised on artificial substrate so it’s full of flavour. With a bit
of luck it’s not soaked with chemical fertilizers or pesticides
either. Look out for people with a slightly motley selection of
goods that tell you they’re smallholders, not large-scale traders. Seek out imperfections in the produce - natural food is
not all the same size and shape. Look for a nice bit of mud
(but not too much water, that’s a trick to add weight on the
The aforementioned Dolac has been feeding the citizens of
Zagreb since 1930, and it’s one of the liveliest spots in the
city. From 06:00 to around 14:00, it’s full of banter, barter,
chatter, shouting and laughter. It’s fringed by cafes and little
food outlets; a trip there is an unmissable part of the sightseeing schedule.
If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll want to avoid the meat section
where you’ll be confronted by bits of carcass swinging all
over the place. The meat market is far from unsanitary but it’s
a far cry from the cellophane-wrapped sterility of the supermarket; there’s no kidding you where that pork chop came
from. Here you can choose from fresh meat of all kinds, cured
hams, bones and tails for your soup, spicy Slavonian kulen (a
little like a giant chorizo), multitude salamis and the scourge
of children everywhere, offal.

Potentially even more off-putting is the dairy section at
Dolac, an enclosed area with an unmistakeably milky aroma.
There rows of ladies invite you to taste their wares, and we
strongly advise you to do so. Try slivers of supple young
cheese (svježi sir), rich sour cream (vrhnje), smoked cheese
(dimljeni sir), cheese flavoured with paprika, nettle, herbs or
made with goat’s or sheep’s milk (kozji, ovčji sir). Also look out
for the Gligora stall selling highly-regarded cheese from Pag
A trip to the fish section (ribarnica) is part culinary voyage,
part natural history adventure. The creatures of the deep
whose gaze you’ll meet you’ve probably never seen before.
Along with shimmering crates of sardines are plump pink
scorpion fish, exquisite yet ugly monkfish; jumbo Adriatic
squid, conger eel, river trout and huge, fearsomely-toothed,
delicious and hideously expensive dentex. If you’re not sure
how to prepare these things, ask the stallholder who will usually gut them for you and offer advice on cooking. Look for
fish with plump flesh and bright (not sunken) eyes. There’s
fish to suit every pocket, and the cheapest, the humble sardine (just 20kn a kilo), is the healthiest of them all.
At the far end of the open-air part of Dolac market you’ll find
herbal teas and tinctures and traditional craft items such as
lace tablecloths, embroidered slippers and wooden toys.
Above is a plateau named after Petrica Kerempuh, a literary
character. The Kerempuh restaurant is a great spot for a tasty
lunch, and the Potepuh café has been the meeting place of
artists and intellectuals for decades, including poet Tin Ujević
and novelist Miroslav Krleža. In summer, you can buy bedding
plants, herbs and other supplies for your garden or window
box in this part of the market. Go a little further along Opatovina (C-1) and you’ll find stalls selling cheap clothing.
Down the Dolac steps and towards the square are flower
stalls, a mirror held up to the changing seasons. Along with
hothouse staples there are always narcissi in the spring, chrysanthemums in autumn, and lavender and sunflowers to help
you pay homage to the summer.
As you can see, your shopping spree on Dolac is hard work
so you deserve a break. A legendary place for a light lunch is
Bistro Amfora, strategically positioned under the arches by the
fish market. The place hasn’t changed in the past 30 years; it’s
one of the last reminders of Zagreb in years gone by and the
locals gather from dawn to chew over the day’s gossip. The
smell of frying squid and sardines is irresistible. A main course
(we suggest crni rižot, squid ink risotto) and a glass of wine
will set you back just a few euro.
The other main Zagreb markets include Britanski trg (A-2)
(affectionately known as Britanac), which transforms into an
antiques market on Sundays; and Trešnjevački plac (H-3)
and Kvatrić (Kvaternikov trg J-3) - also largeish markets
with good fish sections and much more.
So, pick up your basket and head for the market! Great food,
good cheer and some super photo opportunities await you.
Spring 2016 31

Local Flavour
The Foodie’s Guide
12.05 Thursday - 22.05 Sunday
Zagreb Beer & Burger Festival
Many of you know the classic ‘two all beef paddies on a
sesame seed bun commercial’ and you’ll be seeing plenty
of buns and burgers at the Strossmayer Square in May.
Starve if you need to, but come with empty tummies and
full pockets so that you can eat and drink to your hearts
content with the best Beers and Burgers in town, this is an
invite to our vegetarian friends too, there’s plenty of variety for everyone!QC‑3, Trg Josipa Jurja Strossmayera.
Burger - Louie Cafe & Kitchen Archives

Coffee & Cakes
21.05 Saturday
Flavours and fragrances of Croatia
Under the motto ‘fall in love with Croatian traditional cuisine’, everyone is invited to this brand new event which
aims to promote the wide range of national foods and
dishes that are distinguished by their unique taste, aroma
and consistency. Feel free to dabble and experiment in
premium foods and beverages and see why table culture
is an indispensable part of Croatian
09.06 Thursday - 10.07 Sunday
Foodbalerka - Retro Gourmet Football
The European Football Championships can be seen live
and on big screens at Park Ribnjak, just behind the Cathedral. The name of the event is a cross between food
& football, and most of all the mullet hairstyles that soccer players had in the 80s, named fudbalerka in Croatian.
Lots of food and beverage stands will have you pacing up
and down the park, bring a blanket and get into the EURO
championships in style!QD‑1, Ribnjak Park.
Cooking workshops for tourists with
In the City Centre, at Nova Ves 10, the UNUO Association
has organised free culinary weekend workshops for tourists with disabilities. Groups are small, so reserve your
spot at (prijava) and learn how to make
traditional Croatian specialities in a comfortable environment full of uninterrupted enjoyment, socialising, and fun.
Besides tourists with disabilities, everyone else can also
join the workshop!QC‑1, UNUO Association, Nova Ves

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

The Little Market from the Attic
Many people feel they’d love to have better access to
healthy, organically grown food. And at the same time,
producers of organic food need better access to customers. The Little Market from the Attic (Mali plac s Tavana) is an answer to this problem, enabling people to
have a lot of fun along the way. Here you can find all kinds
of interesting delicacies from the furthest corners of Croatia, plus natural cosmetics, eco-friendly cleaning products
and a whole lot more. It’s also a meeting place where you
can learn from others about growing and enjoying natural
healthy food. For locations and dates check their website. J
Wine School by Jelena Šimić Valentić
Love wine! Wanna learn more? Enroll into these workshops which provide for 15 to 20 people. They consist of
three 180 minute sessions per month with the exact dates
to be released two weeks prior to school starting. Classes
always begin at 18:30 and four international wines will always be tasted!Qtel. (+385-) 098 165 80 73, pupitres@,
32 Zagreb In Your Pocket

A Most Unusual Garden
Enter a garden, not just any garden, a garden filled with
decoration and as you begin to hear the chimes and
rhythm, you’ll stumble across a tree house turn café.
This architectural masterpiece is decked out in a lush
bohemian style, fancy yet rustic. Hot’n’cold beverages
are available all day round and you can choose to chill sky
high or down to earth, if you know what we mean.QH‑4,
Horvaćanska 3, tel. (+385-) 091 464 69 00. Open 08:00
- 24:00. P­G­B­X­W
Chill, laid back, Booksa could be a bookshop or library for
all the reading material on offer. Come in, order from a
wide selection of teas, pick a book off the shelf, and relax.
There are also readings and workshops on a regular basis.
A far-reaching vision indeed.QD‑2, Martićeva 14d, tel.
(+385-1) 461 61 24, [email protected],
Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. 6­N­G­B­W
Dežman Bar
Dežmanova is surely Zagreb’s most hip street. Already
home to great fast food joints and cafes, it’s also where
you’ll find Dežman Bar with its cocktails, snacks and pastries. It’s gluten free, if you’re concerned about allergens,
and it stocks Croatian beers. But don’t worry if you think
it’s somehow a ‘hippy’ bar… they have a BBQ sandwich
on the menu too!QB‑2, Dežmanova 3, tel. (+385-1) 484
61 60, [email protected], Open 08:00 24:00, Fri - Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. P­i ­T­J­
The yumminess of Divas cafe is at least in part a product of
its previous life as a fashion boutique and its owner’s first
love in the world of design. Intimate and inspiring seating
areas create a welcoming aura as an enticing prelude to
drink selections complimented by cakes and munchies.
Tea, coffee and spirits lovers alike can savor the variety of
classic and unique selections listed at drinkably affordable
rates in the hand-sewn menu cards.QD‑2, Martićeva 17,
tel. (+385-1) 457 99 42, [email protected]. Open 07:00
- 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. P­N­G­
Any coffee aficionado would be mad not to pay this small
coffee shop a visit. Non-smoking, because the owner feels
it ruins the taste, and serving nothing but coffee, Eli’s has
one of the friendliest staff ever encountered in oft-gruff Zagreb. Coffee is seasonal so you can be sure of getting the
right sort of coffee to match the time of year. Eli’s are careful about the quality of their product and only supply a few
locations elsewhere in the city.QA‑2, Ilica 63, tel. (+385-)
091 455 56 08, [email protected],
Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

Velvet Archives

Express Bar
It’s an unassuming looking place, but with friendly staff
(but oh so skilled), and a pretty decent selection of coffee
and tea blends. Plenty of seating both indoors and outside,
naturally, on the street. Coffee? Purely seasonal and is based
on fresh harvest and freshly roasted coffee. Express has
‘blends’, a mixture of coffee most often from different countries, so Costa Rica, Salvador and Brazil might be in blend
this week, whereas next weeks could be entirely different.
They also have single origin coffee! So, if you devour coffee,
then you need to put the time aside to try a few cups.QC‑2,
Petrinjska 4. Open 07:00 – 23:00, Sat 08:00 – 22:00, Sun
09:00 – 14:00.
Kino Europa
Zagreb’s best known arthouse cinema, Kino Europa is
so much more. Serving as a large café by day (with cakes
and sandwiches available) the nights offer twice as much.
Two halls play host to events such as quizzes, music performances, and of course documentaries. Kino Europa is
not only home to any number of film festivals but also to a
rather kitsch shop where one can procure some very eclectic items indeed. It should be a weekly ritual to check the
cinema’s website for upcoming features.QB‑2, Varšavska
3, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 88, [email protected], www. Open 08:30 - 02:00. P­J­B­W
Situated on Ilirski trg, this is ideally placed to act as starting point, or finishing point, for those eager to explore the
area outside the old walls of Zagreb. Around the corner
you’ll find a path leading onto Dubravkin put, which in
Spring 2016 33

Coffee & Cakes
turn takes you up a beautiful walk to the woods at the
back of Ksaverska. If you’re ending here you’ll be happy to
know that you’ll get your croissants or krafne on top of your
tea and coffee. Comfy seats, great music policy, and an even
better selection of beer.QC‑1, Ilirski trg 1, tel. (+385-1) 485
13 57/(+385-) 098 904 13 02, [email protected]. Open
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­N­B­X­W
Always nice to sit on a heated terrace, during the morning
rather than at night, and watch life go by. Pleased to note
that Pif is still one of the fastest cafes around the area to
have their outdoor seating ready for customers, even during the cold weather. Great mint tea available here, which
is always nice. Staff are prompt and friendly, and inside is
well ventilated should you be a non-smoker, and unable to
find space on the terrace. Plenty of local and craft beers, and
open late.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 487 29 59.
Open Mon - Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri - Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun
11:00 - 01:00. P­J­B
Retro Café Bar
The works of Serbian realist Domanović balance playfully
with those of Dante under the bar while ‘bugger off’ serves
in place of a ‘closed’ sign. Witty and gritty, Retro feel permeates the cushiony window seats and group tables in this
intimate space subtlely but impressively furnished with repurposed bureaus, drawers and doodads of all kinds.QH‑4,
Savska cesta 180, tel. (+385-1) 550 99 59/(+385-) 099 324
00 01, [email protected],
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. P­N­B­X­W
Swanky Monkey Garden
You don’t have to go too far to find a terrace or courtyard
cafe in Zagreb, but Swanky’s Monkey Garden is a great addition and one well worth visiting at least once. The walls of
the main bar are papered with replicas of newspapers and
documentation dating back to the building’s previous life
as a factory, while outside there’s a raised terrace which sits
neatly in front a well tended vegetable garden and orchard.
QB‑2, Ilica 50, tel. (+385-1) 400 42 48, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
U Dvorištu
Best described as one of Zagreb’s best kept secrets this
chilled and laid back venue is somewhere to go to just get
away from it all, tucked away from all the action on the
street. Direct trade café this place has wifi, a great beer selection, and more than a few blends of tea to assist in the
process of relaxation. Perhaps best avoided if you’re not too
fond of the feline persuasion, but certainly a place that’s
all too happy to see, and accommodate, cyclists (an oddity for a city as large as Zagreb).QB‑3, Jurja Žerjavića 7/2,
[email protected]. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. P­6­N­G­B­X­W
34 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Zagreb Nightlife Pulse
This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love
with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your
day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their
own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. Pricey,
but no more so than other such spots in the area.QB‑2,
Dežmanova 9, tel. (+385-1) 484 67 43, [email protected], Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Mak Na Konac
The search for the best chocolate cake in all of Zagreb is,
for now, at an end. Mak na Konac, with almost two decades
of experience in the kitchen, provides some interesting
twists on what is the norm in local pastries, or pastries from
anywhere for that matter. Bepsoke orders are possible, and
Mak na Konac can cater to all tastes, and needs: gluten free,
diabetic friendly, dairy free, etc.QE‑2, Dukljaninova 1, tel.
(+385-1) 461 66 54, [email protected], www. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
There are people we know who practically orgasm when
they talk about this little place. The reason? Everything is
home-made from fresh ingredients. The šlag in most other
places is made from packet mix. Here it’s fresh cream, and
the same stuff goes in the ice cream. Nice old-skool vibe.
QJ‑2, Maksimirska 34, tel. (+385-1) 231 53 23, orijent@ Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sun. P­N­G­W
The Cookie Factory
Warning: The Cookie Factory may be habit-forming! Already
hooked on chocolate chunk cookies, ice cream sandwiches
and rocky road brownies? Wanna be? This sweetshop cafe in
the heart of the city center will satisfy any craving and possibly create some new ones! Generously portioned classic
American sweets are served in a cheery setting only made
more enticing with beverages like fruit smoothies and coke
floats. The aroma of “just like Grandma used to make” is
complimentary.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-) 099 494
94 00, [email protected],
Open 09:00 - 23:00. P­J­A­G­B­W
Torte i to
Lying low in the back of Centar Kaptol’s 2nd floor, this café
offers a selection of the most deliriously delectable sweets
available in Zagreb as well as some of the most helpful staff
in terms of choosing what to eat! With its classic living room
style interior and additional seating outside, this locale is a
winner. I suggest the carrot cheese cake!
QC‑1, Nova Ves 11, Centar Kaptol, tel. (+385-) 099 343 41
11, [email protected], Open 08:00 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. P­N­G­B­W

Sirup - Photo by Goran Perešin - Goxmag

Insider tips by locals
We asked locals - who live or work in Zagreb
- to give us a few tips on how to enrich your
stay in this city and make it that bit more

Adnan Mehmedović - Medo
Organizer of the R’n’B Confusion program

ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and
meet people?
Adnan: Begin at one of the city’s legendary urban bars; like,
RockStarr, Alcatraz, PIF or Swanky. People are usually openminded and you’re likely to meet lots of cool people in one
night who’ll take you out with them or recommend good
places to go.
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to listen
to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)?
Adnan: Sax!, Kset, and Tvornica when they have concerts
announced in advance. At bars like Mojo, Buzz or Tesla Power
House during the week you can get to know small up-andcoming bands that hone their craft on the small stage.

ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife during
the week and on the weekends?
Adnan: During the week: Pivana, Dežman Bar on Mondays
and Tuesdays, Tesla Power House and Basta on Wednesdays,
Mojo bar and Melin on Thursdays. On the weekends: Warm
up at Tesla Power House, Peper - after warm up. Johann
Franck or Opera, particularly when there’s RnB Confusion at
those clubs, but they are generally excellent places for going
out. Katran - when there’s a special program or performance.

ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out?
Adnan: Kremenko Grill on Savska street before the turnaround, for sure! They have really high quality meat grilled
on wood charcoal.

ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Zagreb to relax?
Adnan: Swanky Monkey Garden on Sundays when the
weather’s nice and when there’s the Blok Blok courtyard
hip-hop BBQ going on. An afternoon chill-session with good
music, good people, burgers and beer. There are always cool
DJs spinning, but always to kick-start the Sunday hangout is
the legendary Croatian rapper, Bizzo Bodega. An evening of
live jazz at Melin while drinking a nice glass of wine is also a
good vibe.

ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife during the week and on the weekends?
Goran: My favourite place to go during the week is for
sure Funk Club on Tkalčićeva. There, in the middle of the
week you can hear very interesting and respected names
in the local (underground) electronic scene. Synergy DJs,
good music, the people and the ambiance create such an
indescribable atmosphere that it’s simply not possible to
be unimpressed. That being said, I’d also mention a new
place in town, and that’s Toster at Petrinjska street. Besides
being able to hear excellent electronic music supported

Goran Marinković
One of the founders of UES Magazine

Spring 2016 35

Zagreb NightlifePulse

Dave Harvey - Sirup Archives

Zagreb Nightlife Pulse
by the UES Magazine team and serving the respected
members of the local scene, they offer programs with specific bands as well as classic RnB and Hip-Hop sounds. The
place has a relaxed atmosphere decorated in a retro street
art style. And as the name Toster suggests, inside you can
enjoy some tastily prepared toasted sandwiches at good
prices. My favourite places for a night out on the weekend,
I’d have to single out Sirup, Masters, Boogaloo and Das
Haus. Basically they’re underground venues that cultivate
underground-style electronic music. Most of the very best
ensembles from the local scene organize their own electronic music events, along with various artists and worldfamous names, at these venues. Each one of these clubs
offers something unique and special that everyone should
experience for themselves in person!
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Zagreb to relax?
Goran: For me the best places to relax in Zagreb are those
connected to culture or surrounded by nature; such as,
Zrinjevac, Gornji grad, Maksimir, Jarun, Bundek. When
most of your time during the week and even the weekends is spent inside bars and clubs listening to good music, a strong and indescribable wish to relax in nature, on
a bench or in a field, develops inside you. We should be
lucky that Zagreb has such places.

RNB Confusion Archives

KLUB. Archives
Sirup - Photo by Goran Perešin - Goxmag

ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and
meet people?
Goran: The best way to get to know the city and meet
people is if you spend time with the people who live life
in this city to the fullest. And by that I mean the various
groups and people who offer the kinds of experiences to
get to know the city; such as, Đir po Zagrebu or via private arrangements. In a relaxed and informal way, those
groups will conjure up the best that this wonderful city has
to offer; whether it be interesting places to go out, cultural
places, hidden corners in the centre of the city, or even just
a place on a park bench. If you need help you can call us at
UES Magazine and we’ll be glad to direct you or connect
you to different people.
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to
listen to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)?
Goran: Part of my answer to this question you can find in
the answer to the first question you asked me; the second
part I’ll tell you now. The places that offer chances to listen
to the local music scene (bands, DJs, solo artists), along
with the places I’ve already mentioned, would definitely
be: Vintage Industrial Bar, Tvornica Kulture, Melin Cafe on
Tkalčićeva, Vinyl Bar and Močvara. That’s all I can remember at the moment, so I apologize if I’ve left out some
other interesting places.
ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out?
Goran: Zagreb has a few really good places to eat after a
night out, depending on which part of the city you find
yourself in. The place that I prefer is actually really close

36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Frajle - Tesla Power House Archives

to where I live, since that’s always where I end up, and it’s
open 24 hours a day. And that is the Dubravica bakery at
the main bus station. The ladies that work there are always
smiling and having fun, there’s lots of food to choose from,
but the freshly baked burek and pizza are my favourite. I’d
like to send a quick shout-out to the pizza chef!

Vedran Meniga
Owner of the Positive Rhythm and PDV Records
ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife during the week and on the weekends?
Vedran: I’m one of those people who mix work with pleasure; I don’t go looking for a good time, I create my own
fun. For me, the program itself holds more weight than
the actual venue, as I regularly visit more and more places
that do different things such as concerts and parties. I give
particular priority to the places that offer quality programs
during the week, especially considering that they receive
fewer clientele and therefore have a lower return on investment.
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Zagreb to relax?
Vedran: Shortly, “Pločnik”, on the corner of Slovenska and
Međimurska streets, near the western train station.
ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and
meet people?
Vedran: Don’t stay home. Go out.
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to
listen to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)?
Vedran: In the places that offer that kind of thing in their
programs; especially at the clubs that offer the chance to
present new and fresh talent. And which promote more
programs and higher production standards; basically
where original local music is performed.

ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out?
Vedran: Zagreb is definitely lagging behind other large
European cities when it comes to what they have to offer.
I think that a warm burek at one of the better bakeries is
still the best option.

Vibor Hulenić
One of the founders of the Amnesia program
ZIYP: Where’s your favourite place for nightlife during the week and on the weekends?
Vibor: Johann Franck and Peper. Johann is nice because of
its modern European styling and superior design. But for
dancing my favourite place has still got to be Peper.
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place in Zagreb to relax?
Vibor: The three that share first place are definitely,
Swanky, Toster and A Most Unusual Garden.
ZIYP: What’s the best way to get to know the city and
meet people?
Vibor: During the summer there’s Wayoudo and Zagreb
Pub Crawls (Đir po Zagrebu). And throughout the year
there’s Moovanje and Nezaobilazno, which are free tours
that are getting more and more popular among the hostels.
ZIYP: According to you, where’s the best place to listen to the local music scene (bands, DJ’s, solo artists)?
Vibor: Along with all the places I’ve mentioned above, I
would add Klub Klub, Sax! and Funk.
ZIYP: Where’s the best place to eat after a night out?
Vibor: By far the best place is the cult classic, Pingvin on
Teslina street.
Spring 2016 37



RNB Confusion Archives

RNB Confusion Archives

RNB Confusion Archives

Amnesia Archives

clubbing zagreb - life &
High on demand, here you can find the latest information
about nightlife in the Croatian capital which is becoming
the ‘must visit’ category in terms of rankings. From jazz,
funk and alternative music, through to new and old R&B,
hip hop to edgier electro beats, we present to you an entire
range of what that is ‘smoking hot’ in the Zagreb’s nightlife
It has to be said that the city is full of small sized nightclubs
and bars made for clubbing and warm-up parties, so there
is no excuse to stay in as its time to face the music; ladies
get the heels on, gents get the gel and head into town for
a party all-round.
From the urban and mainstream scene we have Adnan
Mehmedović - Medo (R’n’B Confusion), Vibor Hulenić
(Amnesia) and Dinko Šimunović aka DJ Chill from the
(Super Super Club).
Although all three are R&B and hip hop orientated, they
each have their own groove and have their own style with
Medo being an organiser of the R’n’B Confusion program
which has been on the list of all major nightclubs for 14
years now, he occasionally makes appearances in neighbouring countries also.
Vibor and his team (The Great Five) joined the scene in
2013 with their Amnesia program which puts emphasis
on thematic R&B and hip hop parties; these are also held
in a different club each time with the aim of creating new
stories and new vibes each time, as they say ‘variety is the
spice of life’.
38 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Dinko, aka DJ Chill is a great lover of hip hop and the urban
scene and he conveys to the public the best of the music
scene through various guests and music programs.
Through discussion and personal experience, we would like
to single out places such as Super Super, Museum and
the Shock Show Industry; all of which are located within
the same building, namely the former Katran Factory (J-3),
with each maintaining a different program so that all guests,
patrons and punters can find something they like from the
urban scene. In terms of the city centre, several new and
trendy hit places have opened up such as Opera, Johann
Franck (C-2) and the Peper (C-2) nightclubs. Naturally, the
heart of the city is full of brewing bars that are open until
02:00 with a variety of programs and a wide range on offer,
check out Tesla Power House (B-2), Vinyl and Supercaffe
By far the most wanted and best regarded music at the moment is in the electronic and underground music scene. The
hype is huge, there’s a real buzz in the air and the intensity is
there. From light and sexy, fast and commercial, to the most
powerful bass sound. The new generation of the electronic
scene is led by a team consisting of Goran Marinković and
Bruno Vojvodić (UES Magazine), Mark Ješovnik aka
Yesh (Jabba Ton, Chew the Fat) and the man himself Vedran Meniga (Pozitivan Ritam, PDV Records).
The guys from UES Magazine work hard to inform and educate the public about news from the world of electronic music as well as all the interesting things in the field of technology and urban culture. Recently they started a new project
called UES Booth at the Toaster Bar (C-2) which enables

some old and new acts to present their material to a wider
audience and gets them to mutually exchange experiences
and ideas, ultimately helping build a pleasant companionship.
Marko aka Yesh is a DJ with over 10 years’ experience on
the local front and has played at various festivals (Hideout,
Outlook, and Terraneo…) and gigs across Croatia and this
region. With time, he had gone into production and started
the JabbaTon and Chew the Fat programs which are held
at different venues each time, plus he is also a host on Yammat FM Radio, therefore his involvement and knowledge
of the scene is unquestionable. Vedran, who is known in the
scene as MMMeniga, is a member of the punk generation
from the end of the 80s and plays music exclusively on vinyl
records, based on dubstep in combination with bass and
techno. In addition to playing music, he is the organiser of the
Outlook, Dimensions and Seasplash festivals, the owner
of the production company PDV Records, and runs the project Pločnik where he raises awareness of the underground
scene. For those who love the sound of electronic beats, Sirup (A-4) is a sure place to go, along with KSET (B-4), Medika
(A-3), Masters (L-2) and Das Haus. For weekly and warm up
options, you can choose the Funk Club (C-1) which has a
program running from Wednesday to Saturday.
When it comes to the alternative and jazz scenes, we
were fortunate enough or should we say honoured in being able to hang out with two great musical experts in Andrej Jakuš and Ivan Kapec. Both are members of the band
TrianguliZona, referring to three different but interrelated
dimensions - image, sound and time. With their unusual,
magical and innovative approach, they form a genre that is
hard to resist. In addition to TrianguliZona which has been
in existence for 10 years now, Andrej has played in numerous other bands such as Genaro Flores, Soul Fingers, Con
Fusion, Mayales, Mangroove, Chui, Detour, Bučersi and
is an active studio and live musician. He has produced two
excellent compilations of the Croatian electro scene: Dancing B(e)ar Lounge 1 & 2, and Klape Remixed (Croatian
traditional klapa remixed by Croatian and foreign producers). The electronics on trumpet is accompanied by a world
class sound and LIVE ACT performances by DJs or session
musicians; therefore he is a very versatile musician who is
open to an entire spectrum of musical styles. Guitarist and
composer Kapec has been actively involved in the jazz and
electronic music since the 90’s. He has played in a number
of Croatian jazz ensembles and founded his own trio with
whom he recorded two albums, Lancun and Bava. He is
also the founder of the multimedia group TrianguliZona
with whom he has performed at many festivals at home
and abroad. He leads the space jazz band Capisconne,
and together with DJ Labosh is the author of the project
Loop Chamber Music. But that’s not all, Kapec often joins
Borko Rupen in an electro-acoustic improvised duo they
call Sonic Diptych. London label Dubmission included
three of Kapec’s electronic songs in the Next Dubmission
compilation. Currently, he runs electro-jazz sessions called
Sunrise Sessions as a new platform for the development
of a more creative and improvised music scene in Croatia.

Without doubt, the alternative scene is far more approachable and accessible at clubs and bars with live music and DJs.
For rock, metal, funk and stronger rhythmic tunes, there is
a fine range with Močvara, Vintage Industrial Bar (I-4),
Tvornica Kulture (E-3) and Jabuka (I-2). When it comes to
jazz and live sets, definitely look for Jiggy Bar (A-4), Booze
& Blues (C-1), Sax! (D-2), KSET(B-4), SC, MM Centar (B4), Bacchus (C-3), Melin (C-1), Jazzilicious (J-3) or Jazz
cafe Forum in Sesvete, all of which will have you zipping
and zapping!
For many of us music is a way of life and Zagreb strikes the
right note whether it is funk, punk, rock, pop, jazz, soul, R&B,
hip hop, house, techno or something completely different.
The city certainly has its bases covered and rest assured that
you will have a great time listening to the best of the best
from the local and international music scene.

AKC Medika
Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind
the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat
that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community. A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven
club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonisticallyinclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a
dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what’s
going on.QA‑3, Pierottijeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 619 72 23,
[email protected], Open Fri, Sat
22:00 - 04:00 and on request. J­6­N­B­X­W
On the cutting edge of all things cool, Kset is gaining a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz and DJ wizardry. The mood lighting is the icing on
the cake. Locals are becoming very passionate about their
worship of this place.QB‑4, Unska 3, tel. (+385-1) 612 97
58, [email protected], Open 20:00 - 24:00,
Fri 21:00 - 01:00, Sat 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E­G­W
This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of
Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also something of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going
on most nights of the week - film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist
Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip décor in the bar area is
reason enough to call in. As a reminder, the club opens only
for organized concerts or special events, so it’s best to keep
track via the web.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip bb, tel. (+385-1)
615 96 67, [email protected], Open
for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to
keep track via the web or Facebook page. P­T­6­U­
Spring 2016 39

Great tunes spin about the fifties funk fusion atmosphere
of this starry-skied club café. The indie-chill and alternative laden line up offers an inviting feast of aural delights.
With a performance selection in constant evolution, music
fans of all inclinations are invited to discover each evening
what “The Space” will become.QI‑3, Hrvatske bratske za‑
jednice 4, tel. (+385-1) 615 15 28, [email protected].
com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W

A very welcome addition to an already busy area, Booze
& Blues is a part of New Orleans right here in Zagreb. Every spirit you’d likely see on Bourbon Street, open late,
and live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. There’s a
Heineken tap made from a functional saxophone which is
worth a visit alone.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 84, tel. (+385-1) 483
77 65, [email protected], Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.
Corner bar
Situated in the Ban Centar, urban meets Zen in this tranquil
yet modern atmosphere. An outdoor garden terrace creates an extremely peaceful and relaxing setting amongst
the contemporary and chic decor, a top escape from the
hustle and bustle of the city. Not just a great spot to sip
your morning coffee in peace, but also for a fun night out
on the town with friends. They offer a large selection of
wines, champagne by the glass, cognac, coffee and tea,
along with sandwiches, cakes, cocktails, smoothies, natural juices, cigars and whiskey. There’s something to suit
everyone’s taste! Breakfast is served from 08:00 - 12:00
where one can enjoy 100% Arabica Lavazza Kafa Forest
Coffee selected from natural plantations in Ethiopia. In addition, they host various musical evenings with multimedia equipment and projectors available for presentations.
QC‑2, Ulica Augusta Cesarca 4 (Next to Trg bana Josipa
Jelačića), tel. (+385-1) 484 53 93, [email protected].
Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 11:00. P­T­J­A­6­U­E­G­B­X­W
UES Mag Archives

Jiggy bar
Jiggy almost feels as if you’re entering some sort of
WWII shelter, but it’s very cosy within and very welcoming. The venue is split so as to allow patrons to enjoy a
quiet-ish beer, or revel in whatever live music is playing.
Funk, alt rock, etc., just a few of the genres on offer,
and this reviewer has already been back more than a
few times.QA‑4, Ivana Broza 48, tel. (+385-1) 366 83
60, [email protected], Open 08:00 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00
- 24:00. P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­U ­E ­B ­X ­W
Kino Klub Grič
There’s nothing not to love about this keen café cinema
club. Relax with a coffee or cocktail surrounded by their
cool-not-kitshe movie décor in the cozy lounge-loft,
main floor or terrace. On weekends, the underground
nightclub features live DJs of all irresitably dancable
genres. With the reopening of the classic theatre’s cinema space, this hot-spot just off the main square, is a
must-see.QC‑2, Jurišićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 098 40 03
06, [email protected], Open
07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. T­J ­6 ­N ­B­
Mojo bar, wine rakija & co.
Enjoy a drink in the sunshine on the café terrace, overlooking the fountain, on Trg hrvatskih velikana, or enter
the underground bar and move into a smoky urban
style ambiance. Brick walls, adorned with black-andwhite pictures, create a mellow and calming atmosphere. A very large selection of wines and rakijas are
offered, which can be enjoyed at the live music nights,
featuring klapas on Mondays, rock cover bands on
Tuesdays, jazz bands on Wednesdays and DJs on the
weekends.QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 091
526 67 33, [email protected]. Open 07:00 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­T ­A ­6 ­E ­B ­X ­W
This clandestine affair of a café/bar is a popular hangout for Zagreb’s young literati. And we can see why: the
number seven’s dark, enigmatic atmosphere is certain
to stir a literary bone in your body, too.QA‑2, Kačićeva
7a, tel. (+385-1) 484 66 89, [email protected].
com, Open Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun
17:00 - 01:00. P­T ­J ­A ­6 ­B ­X ­W
Tesla Power House
Decked in modernity (at first glance), this central location features a set of open decks for regular DJ sets as
well as copious Tesla related decorations. Live music,
funk rock… Everything goes at this Zagreb dive bar.
Ideally located for those waiting for events in nearby
Kino Europa or on Trg.QB‑2, Varšavska 4, tel. (+385) 091 330 49 88, [email protected]. Open
08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T ­J ­6 ­E­
B­X ­W

40 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Vintage Industrial Bar
This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than
just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some
friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance
performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with
graffiti and black and white photography, create the
perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you
don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160,
tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, info@, www.vintageindustrial-bar.
com. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -05:00, Sun 10:00
- 01:00. Closed Mon. P­T­6­E­B­X­W

Johann Franck
If a country’s largest coffee company opens a venue, it
must be reasonable to assume that you’re going to be
happy with what’s on offer. There’s a reason why chains
like Starbucks don’t see Croatia as a viable market, even
though seemingly all anyone does here is drink coffee and
watch the world go by. More terrace space than you can
shake a stick at, and a great location at the corner of Zagreb’s main square. An expansive food menu, with daily
specials posted on site and on social media. Once the sun
has set, however, this venue stops being a convenient
place for tea, and becomes a vibrant clubbing spot.

Themed nights are a frequent affair, with the venue recently hosting the Batman vs Superman premiere party.
QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 9, tel. (+385-) 091 783 81
53, [email protected], www.johannfranck.
hr. Open Mon - Thu, Sun 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00.
Created as part of the Subcultural Center in Zagreb, Klub.
is a small and simple arched brick-walled space located
underground. It is accessible through the Joe Strummer
Square located in the courtyard of the complex shared by
the Beertija Club. Come check out a wide variety of bands
to suit any musical taste, from rock ‘n’ roll and indie to electronic and punk.QD‑3, Pavla Hatza 14-16, zvone.pusic@, Open Wed,
Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. N­X­W
A familiar name in Zagreb’s nightlife, but now in a new location. Peper Ilica 5, formerly Pepermint, still continues to provide you with great music and great drink deals. Funk, disco,
pop, rockabilly, and soul. And soul is what this venue has in
abundance. Open all week round, it’s always worth calling
in to see what’s on that night. Entry is free up until 22:00
Wednesday and Thursday, and until 23:00 at the weekend.
We’ll see you there!QC‑2, Ilica 5, tel. (+385-) 091 393 99 38,
[email protected], Open Wed, Thu 22:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 22:00
- 06:00. P­J­A­G­X­W
Spring 2016 41


Sirup moved to the Zagrebački Paromlin, a historic industrial
building from the beginning of the 20th century, and is now
situated behind the main train station. At night, the building
gives off an abandoned and eerie feel and is perfect for thrill
seekers and fans of a Jack the Ripper 19th century London
atmosphere. The music is so intense that you’ll feel the notes
vibrating through your chest. Open only on Thursday, Friday and
Saturday nights!QJ‑3, Koturaška cesta 1, [email protected], Open Fri, Sat 00:00 - 08:00.


Tesla Power House Archives

Bacchus Jazz Bar
Arrive early for a table close to the stage in the vaulted grotto,
but the music is still audible if you’re seated out in the courtyard
on a step or stone wall, in an alcove or niche, or under a fig tree.
The solitary can read one of the books from the shelves under
the bar.QC‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-) 098 32 28
04, [email protected]. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
Tucked away just off of one of Zagreb’s most famous streets,
Tkalčićeva, Melin functions as a café by day and club by night
offering live jazz performances on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Decorated in a retro-chic style with old fashioned TV sets used as
makeshift tables, the cozy outdoor patio is surrounded by trees
and greenery and adorned with old-time radios. Take a seat at
one of the mismatched, but stylish colourful chairs and tables
and enjoy a drink in this artsy atmosphere.QC‑1, Kožarska 19,
tel. (+385-1) 488 02 98, [email protected], www.melin.
hr. Open 10:00 - 02:00. T­J­A­6­E­B­X­W

Chui - Antun Tony Zupanac

This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays
here every night and is an especially delicious and wide
array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all
featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for
their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies
depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.QD‑3,
Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, [email protected], Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. N­G­W
Shock Show Industry - D Katran - Trim
kabinet 5reković
Located in an alleyway in Zagreb’s business district, this
grungy bar offers a variety of special events, including
live concerts, film and dance nights. Shock Show Industry, formerly Tvornica Katran, is still nicknamed, ‘Katran,’ by
locals. It’s not just a regular club, but part of a cultural association from Bjelovar, which was founded in 1972, with a
branch located in Zagreb. To attend an event, don’t forget
to make a reservation ahead of time.QJ‑3, Radnička cesta
27 (door No 17, 2nd floor left), tel. (+385-) 095 418 83 85,
[email protected], Open Fri, Sat
23:00 - 06:00. J­6­E­N­X­W
42 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Bikers Beer Factory
Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina
and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle
parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks
and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust
pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds
like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63,
[email protected],
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Sheridan’s Pub
Croatia doesn’t really do pubs. Cafes and bistros abound, but
here you get to experience a little bit of the Emerald Isle for
yourself. This is Croatia’s only true Irish pub, run as it is by a
man from Offaly. You would not be short something to do of
an evening were to drop in, with traditional Irish music regularly
featured, as well as the ubiquitous pub quiz and open mic sessions. They’re also the only licenced premises in Zagreb running
a loyalty scheme, and if you’re fond of your pint of plain then
that’s a good thing.QI‑3, Savska 36, tel. (+385-) 095 868 85 53,
[email protected]. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W

Zagreb 4U, Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan (TZGZ Archives)

Essential Zagreb
Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa
This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of
the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping,
feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named
after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of
Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy
and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947
it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere
because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its
current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.
Maksimir Park & the City Zoo (Maksimirski park i Zoološki vrt)
A perfect half-day outing for love birds, families, the fourlegged, this place will revitalise a tired soul. Leaves, lakes,
grasses and dirt are all a part of the equation as well as
clouds, a sky and periodically the very sun! Blaring car engines have been removed from this place and as such it’s a
great escape. The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest
was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its
kind in this part of Europe. An added bonus, the city zoo
is housed within it. Catch tram N°11 or 12 from Trg bana
Josipa Jelačića east (Dubec) to the Bukovačka stop. The
entrance to Maksimir park is on the north side of the street.
QK‑1/2, Maksimirski perivoj bb, Zoo
is open 09:00 - 19:00 (until April 24th), 09:00 - 20:00
(April - September), ticket office 09:00 - 18:00 (until
April 24th), 09:00 - 18:30 (April - September). Admission
15 - 20kn.
Mirogoj Cemetery
Croats in the capital city don’t mess around with the homage they pay to their lost loved ones. A trip to Mirogoj, Zagreb’s main cemetery, confirms this immediately. Situated
on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the

most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Lime-green cupolas
top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is
not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open
art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period
between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house
of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed
the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery,
applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions
and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting
There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes
15min and costs 10kn. You can also take tram N°14 from
the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out
at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Mirogoj bb.
St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka)
The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully
depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for
quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters
it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole
lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside,
highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s
most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.
QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.
Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata)
This archway was one of the four original entries into the
walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible
fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a
vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash
that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760
and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies
praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.
QC‑1, Kamenita bb.
Spring 2016 43

zagreb’s grič cannon
If you find yourself in the Upper Town a little before
noon, do not be surprised when you see people with
fingers in their ears as they begin the countdown; ten,
nine, eight, seven, six... Then BOOM! Smoke rises, pigeons flock for shelter, people clap and you’re wondering if this is madness or reality. Fear not, it’s real
and has been every single day for 139 years. It is the
Grič Cannon, first fired in 1877 and was used as a sign
for the bell-ringers of the city’s churches to head off
and do their job. Alem Tutundžić has had this duty for
eight years and is the fifth person to carry out the job
since it first began; his predecessor did it for thirty-five
years. The traditional gun powder method is still used
and he often wears a light blue uniform as worn by the
first ever Zagreb cannon-firer.

the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges
by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically
destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where
the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious
damage during an earthquake. A 12-year restoration takes
place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised
skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 09:00,
18:00, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:30, 18:00.QC‑1,
Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27. Open 10:00 -17:00,
Sun 13:00 - 17:00.
Tkalčićeva (Tkalčićeva street)
You mustn’t miss this street, for it is zoo-like, exhibiting
humans in full chill mode. It simultaneously encourages
you to wander, sit, sip, dance, chat, primp, preen, put out
the vibe, read, write or sleep. You’ll be amazed by the
sheer number of people wandering around here late
into the evening. It provides a unique visual for a city that
you’re starting to understand is very unique too!QC‑1,


Alem Tutundžić - Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

The Cathedral of Assumption of the
Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina
A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp
looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in
the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state
of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will
push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve
been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded;
1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In
44 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Archaeological Museum in Zagreb
(Arheološki muzej u Zagrebu)
Arty and ambient, the offering at this place is brilliantly
enhanced by moody sounds and lighting. Philosophical
musings often accompany explanations of the materials,
moving you to wonder what the heck you’re doing on this
earth.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel. (+385-1)
487 30 00, [email protected], Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10 - 20kn.
Arts and Crafts Museum (Muzej za umjetnost i obrt)
This museum focuses on the lifestyle of the pampered
aristocracy here through the ages. Expect to see amazing furniture, artwork, dinnerware and much more. Very
ornate and curious. Mobile guides in foreign languages
are available. People with special needs also have guides.
These services do not cost extra.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita
10, tel. (+385-1) 488 21 11, [email protected],
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Ad‑
mission 20 - 30kn. U
Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti)
Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection
here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an
excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as
well as free Wi-Fi connection.QJ‑4, Avenija Dubrovnik
17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, [email protected],
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tick‑
ets 15 - 30kn. U

Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski
High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a
unique look at the people of this country through the ages.
Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who
pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups
in English will cost 150kn per tour.QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića
14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, [email protected],
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10 - 15kn. U

01.04 FRIDAY - 01.11 TUESDAY
The city’s natural oasis reopens in spring after the
long winter hibernation period where it remains
closed to the public, and it opens in style. Amidst
the 10,000 different species of plants, the ponds,
artifical hills and bridges, concerts on Thursdays
at 17:30 will be a major attraction with artists of all
kinds booked to perform in what will be a true getaway from the hussle and bussle of the city.
QB‑3, Trg Marka Marulića 9a, tel. (+385-1) 489
80 60, Open 09:00 - 19:00,
Mon, Tue 09:00 - 14:30. Admission free.

Meštrović Atelier - Ivan Meštrović
Museums (Atelijer Meštrović - Muzeji
Ivan Meštrović)
Meštrović is arguably Croatia’s most famous sculptor and
artist. He actually lived with his family and worked in this
house from 1920’s until 1942 when he left Croatia. And
it is here where he complited many of his art works and
monuments including The Indians - a monument in Chicago.QB‑1, Mletačka 8, tel. (+385-1) 485 11 23, mim@, Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.
Modern Gallery (Moderna galerija)
The Modern Gallery is one of the richest of its kind in all
of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of
Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it
hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works
of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors,
as well others who work in new media. From the staircase
and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors,
visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than
two centuries of Croatian modern art await.QC‑3, Andrije
Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40/(+385-1) 604 10 55,
[email protected],
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 30 - 40kn. U
Spring 2016 45


tian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions!QB‑2,
Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09, [email protected], www. Open 09:00 – 22:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.
Family ticket 100kn (includes two adults plus small chil‑

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Technical Museum Nikola Tesla
(Tehnički muzej nikola tesla)
All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propellorpowered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites,
space stations and a planetarium where you can view
a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign
language guide can be organized.QA‑4, Savska cesta
18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, tehnicki-mu[email protected], Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15kn.
Planetarium admission 15kn.
The Croatian Museum of Naive Art
(Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti)
Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive
art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the
imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a
foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of
200 - 300kn for every 30 minutes.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda
3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, [email protected], www.hmnu.
org. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Trachycarpus Fortunei - Botanical Gardens Archives

Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej
prekinutih veza)
Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or
another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has
toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items
and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet
serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the
most innovative European Museum.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda
2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, [email protected], www. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20 - 25kn.
Museum of Illusions
Test your perception at this amazingly new and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as
they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure
of visual and sensual stimuli is broken into two floors; hologram pictures dominate the first floor and hands on displays
are on the second floor. It’s open for all ages and in both Croa46 Zagreb In Your Pocket

The Mimara Museum (Muzej Mimara)
The city’s mega-museum, this baby is the mother load
of artistic treasures with more than 3,750 works in it at
all times including sculptures, paintings, crafts and much
more. It spans an amazing three millennia and much of
it Christian in theme. If you pre-book for a group of 20
people minimum, then a guide is available in English.
QB‑3, Trg Franklina Roosewelta 5, tel. (+385-1) 482 81
00, [email protected], Open 10:00 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 30 - 40kn. U
Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba)
With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps
elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia
as an independent country in the 20th century especially.
Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is
also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A
truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages
are available in addition to special guides for the blind.
QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, [email protected].
hr, Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 - 30kn. U

Art Pavilion (Umjetnički paviljon)
A brilliant yellow exterior woos you to it from its place on
Trg kralja Tomislava. Inside you’ll find a superb home for all
kinds of domestic and international art, great beneficiaries
of the generous natural lighting that spills in from the top.
Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized, these service does not cost extra.QC‑3, Trg kralja
Tomislava 22, tel. (+385-1) 484 10 70, [email protected], Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15 - 30kn.
Lauba – The House for People and Art
(Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba)
Known as the house for people and art, it has a collection
of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes
some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and
interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1)
630 21 15, [email protected], Open 14:00
- 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 25kn. U

The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon
(Kula Lotrščak i Grički top)
If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it
simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an
elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over
the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right
on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha
for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city
of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion.
Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been
fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in
the Upper Town, the tower originally was part of the city’s
defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses
a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well
worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9.
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Tomislav Gotovac Footprints
Ever wanted to walk in the footsteps of someone famous?
Well, with Tomislav Gotovac, Croatian actor, director, and
performance artist, you can. On Zagreb’s main street, not
a few minutes walk from the main square, you will come
across imprints of his feet, placed there in celebration of
his piece, “Zagreb, I Love You”, when in 1981 he ran naked
down Ilica, kissing the road as he went. It’s unlikely that
the locals would look too favourably on a repeat of this
famed event by a tourist, but you’ll never know unless you
try!QC‑2, Ilica 8.

Spring 2016 47

tram no 13
Turing back the clock to 1910, a vivid transformation
occurred that would leave a major imprint on the city
of Zagreb. Low and behold, electric trams finally replaced the classical and most worthy horse trams that
diligently served city folk for many years. A century later, today’s tram network consists of 116 km of railway
coordinated in fifteen day and four night tram lines.
Amongst these, one tram number is very specific
and that is tram number 13. It was put into operation way back in 1911 and its route consisted of Ban
Jelačić Square - Kaptol - Nova Ves - Gupčeva zvijezda
- Mirogoj. After a tragic accident on October 31, 1954,
both the tram line and tram 13 were discontinued.
After forty-two years, the tram with the number 13
returned to function and rides between Žitnjak to
Kvaternik Square today.
So what exactly can be seen on tram 13? Firstly, the
line encompasses 27 stations from beginning till end
and the route passes by some of Zagreb’s major sights,
cultural institutions and locations that you should certainly visit. If you board tram 13 the entire ride takes
approximately an hour from start to finish, depending
on traffic of course.
Here at IYP, we can’t help but recommend you start
your journey from the central station at Ban Jelačić
Square and head towards the direction that interests
you most. Decisions… decisions… If you happen to
start from Žitnjak, you’ll pass through one of the older
suburbs of Peščenica, where you will find the Church
of Blessed Augustine Kažotić which is famous for its
contemporary architectural design. Vukovarska Street
is the lengthiest part of the route where you can see

Tram no. 13 - ZET Archives

48 Zagreb In Your Pocket

the remains of socialist architecture. The intersection
with Držićeva has blocks of residential buildings inspired by the ‘father of modern architecture’ Charles Edouard Jeanneret - Le Corbusier; a typical example is
the residential block Vukovarska 35 - 35a, not to mention state institutions such as the Palace of Justice or
the Public Open University. The Lisinski Concert Hall,
which is also one of the largest concert halls in Croatia,
was built in 1973 in honour of the great Croatian composer Vatroslav Lisinski who wrote the first Croatian
opera, ‘Love and Malice’. Opposite the hall, there is the
extensive and lush university meadow with fountains
which use holograms to mark major events and holidays, and in warmer days also serve to refresh.
Turning towards Savska Street, one moves to a busier
and livelier cultural part of the city with the Dražen
Petrović Museum, Technical Museum, Mimara Museum, Museum of Arts and Crafts, the Croatian National
Theatre, Academy of Music, and the Gavella Theatre.
And then you finally arrive to the well-known Ilica
Street which is also one of the longest streets in town
(the 4th largest to be exact). In just a few minutes, from
perusing the river to watching people stroll along Ilica
Street amongst more shops, ice cream parlours and
cafes, you reach the inaugural main square. Look to the
left, and what time is it? Glance at Ban Jelačić Square,
give the Duke on the horse a salute then move along
towards the Lenuci horseshoe and beautiful Zrinjevac Park which boasts a gorgeous Bollé fountain. On
the right side of the Archaeological Museum and the
Museum of Modern Art sits one of the first hotels in
Zagreb, the Palace Hotel, which overlooks the beautiful park and Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters. Then
to the King Tomislav Square aka ‘Tomislavac’ and its
nearby Art Pavilion, from there you get a view of the
main railway station next to which is the historical
and classical Hotel Esplanade, built in 1925 and for
the most famous ‘Orient Express’ which ran from Paris
to Istanbul and passed through Zagreb. Branimirova
Street is next on the agenda and the ‘Branimir Centre’ is located at the intersection with Draškovićeva
Street, this is where the first production of biscuits and
chocolate called ‘UNION’, later known as ‘Kraš’ used to
operate. Did someone just say chocolate? Hmmm…
Scrumptious! A mere two stations further, we arrive at
the Croatian Association of Artists (Meštrović Pavilion)
i.e. Džamija (the former mosque). And two stations
thereafter is the final destination, Kvatrić. Walk through
the market place, sip on coffee, nibble on cake and enjoy the city life.
Fun Fact: ZET vehicles run the entire length of the
equator three fold and on a daily basis. In terms of a
yearly scale... they travel the equivalent of 109 trips to
the moon and back!

Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City
Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, “Zagreb
Welcomes You” is a scale model of much of the Croatian
capital, and is situated on Bakačeva which is the street
leading from the main square, up to Kaptol. The entire
piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct
structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and
west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English,
and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb
and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see
a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor
Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg
ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the
locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača.

Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any
tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off
Ilica you can hitch a ride for 4kn up to the base of the
Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad,
that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30
seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the
tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva
bb, [email protected], Open 06:30 - 22:00.
The Green Horseshoe (Zelena potkova)
A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci
came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or
Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of
the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green
U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the
green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west
leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg maršala Tita
with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian
National Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with
beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives.
The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the
wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to
nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous
park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The


east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja
Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with
the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious
Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of
squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of
all types.QB/C‑3/4.

top 5 secret things to
see in zagreb
A portrait of the daughter of Samuel
Located at the Modern Gallery, this painting was created by Vlaho Bukovac, one of the most renowned
Croatian painters.
Girl with a Bird
Located at the Zagreb City Museum, this gouache
painting was created by Marc Chagall, one of the most
successful artists of the 20th century, who used a combination of art forms, such as cubism, symbolism, and
fauvism when painting his portraits.
Liber linteus Zagrebiensis
A linen cloth wrapped around a mummy, purchased
by Mihajlo Barić, in 1848, was found to contain a
manuscript written, within the fabric, in Etruscan text.
Located at the Archaeological Museum in Zagreb, this
is the only preserved copy of such a manuscript.
Stjepan Erdödy Jump
Located at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, this photograph, taken in 1895 by Karlo Drašković, represents
one of the first photographs taken in Croatia.
The Holy Trinity
This is the most valuable painting at Strossmayer Gallery. It was created by an anonymous Dutch painter,
who is known as the master of paintings, Virgo inter
Spring 2016 49


Horrible Histories
Crna kraljica (The Black Queen)
There are several legends that pass between the generations in Croatia about the Black Queen, but no-one quite
knows what the truth is about this mysterious figure. We
know that Barbara of Celj was born in 1392 to nobleman
Hermann II of Celj. At a young age she was betrothed to
the much older King Sigismund of Luxembourg. It seems
she was an intelligent and hypnotically beautiful woman
who found herself ruling Croatia in her husband’s absence. And here’s where the stories diverge. Was she a
merciless ruler, governing with a rod of iron and little
pity in her heart? Or was she deeply misunderstood, unpopular simply for being a politically astute woman? On
the one hand she is said to have refused water from her
plenteous well to her fellow citizens during a drought.
On the other she is said to have summoned unearthly
forces to create the Plitvice Lakes and bring water to her
people. Where does the truth lie? The debate goes on.

Pavillion, Botanical Garden Archives

Zagreb Mummy
Perhaps the most famous relic in Croatia is kept at the
Archaeological Museum. The mummified body from
Thebes was bought by Mihael Bari in Egypt in 1848-49,
which you may think seems perfectly reasonable, yet the
mummy is Etruscan and had no business being across the
Mediterranean. The Etruscans controlled large parts of west
Italy, including modern day Tuscany, from around 8 to 5

the altar of st. rocco
Sometimes we innocently fail to see the beauty of
something until we learn about the efforts gone
into its creation. The altar of St. Rocco which is now
placed in the Chapel of St. Rocco and located in the
park overlooking the British Square, has survived its
own Calvary. It was originally built in 1755 by city
guilds and placed in St. Mark’s Church; it carried
the name the altar of the Holy Trinity, St. John the
Baptist and Evangelist. The quality of altars back
then were categorised by colour and their exaggerated baroque decorations. At the time, Bishop Josip
Juraj Strossmayer thought that many altars, though
beautiful, were not spiritually inspiring and ordered a
complete revamp; hence the altar was subsequently
given a new home, new look and new name. The
end of the 19th century saw the altar themed with
a statue of St. Rocco and a dog carrying a piece of
bread in its mouth. Two centuries later, a fire in the
1970s destroyed the right side of the altar and after
extensive restoration; it was possible to once again
see the altar in its original design.
50 Zagreb In Your Pocket

B.C. and only basics of their language, which is pre-indoEuropean, are understood. The Zagreb Mummy, like many
celebrities, is actually more famous for her clothes than
her personal talents. After her owner died it was discovered that the bandages the mummy was wrapped in are
strips of a book made of linen. This book is the longest
preserved text in the Etruscan language and appears to
be something similar to a liturgical calendar. The mummy
is on permanent display but her bonds are locked away
and only revealed to experts.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića
Zrinskog 19.
Zagreb’s Solar System
The solar system in space? Pah! We’ve got one right here
in Zagreb. If you’ve ever wondered what the great big
metal ball in Bogovićeva ulica is, the answer is, of course,
the sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004
Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system
around this mighty Sun, including planets at the following urban locations: Mercury - Margaretska 3, Venus - Trg
bana Josipa Jelačića 3, Earth - Varšavska 9, Mars - Tkalčićeva
21, Jupiter - Voćarska 71, Saturn - Račićeva 1, Uranus - Siget 9,
Neptune - Kozari put, Pluto - Aleja Bologne (underpass). Preis
never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding
them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was
“discovered” in 2006. It’s a great way to get a feel for the
dimensions of the solar system and to discover random
corners of the city.

Join the conversation with IYP

Grička vještica (The Witch from Grič)
Marija Jurić Zagorka (1873-1957) is one of the best-loved
Croatian authors as well as one of the first Croatian female journalists. Her tales of old Zagreb are based on
historical fact embellished into rich and intriguing tales.
Her most popular work is a cycle of seven novels named
“The Witch from Grič”.
Sadly, none of Zagorka’s novels have been translated into
English, but luckily for you, dear readers, we’re here to tell
you the tale of Zagreb’s most famous witch.
The character was based on a real woman baker in Zagreb, the widow Barica Cindek. She was so appealing as
a woman and so successful as a merchant that she attracted the envy of her neighbours and the venom of the
men who failed to conquer her.
The hordes of men were always milling around her
stall on St Mark’s Square. This put poor Barica in court,
accused of keeping a devil in her pocket to entice the
helpless males. In those days it didn’t take much to be accused of witchcraft, and it was the jealousy of a spurned
notary public that almost put a tragic end to Barica’s tale.
He and other rejected suitors blackmailed other “witches” to point the finger at Barica in return for their freedom. So Barica found herself imprisoned. However, at
that time educated folk were starting to protest against
witch-hunts, and Barica was spared being burnt at the
stake (this time with the help of the notary who had
been paid off by Barica’s lawyer).
Zagorka researched real court archives for her story:
there were great numbers of women - and men - who
were proclaimed in league with the devil by a hysterical
and envious society. Although Zagorka herself was born
more than a century after the last “witch” was burned
at the stake, as the first woman journalist in Croatia she
likely felt the same condemnation from society, which is
probably why she spoke strongly against discrimination.
A true role model, Zagorka is still delighting and inspiring
readers today.

So, as you walk the quaint streets of Zagreb’s Upper
Town, if you catch the eye of a pretty and successful
woman remember the tale of Barica!
Kameni svatovi (Stone Wedding)
Kameni svatovi is the name of a picturesque collection
of rock pillars on the western slopes of Mount Medvednica, at about 400m above the level of the road over the
village of Jablanovec. The name means “Stone Wedding”,
and in a moment you’ll find out exactly why. This is a
popular destination for hikers, both due to the attractiveness of the rocks themselves and to the fabulous views
over the Zagorje region, the Samoborsko gorje uplands,
the Žumberak hills, and, on clear days, all the way to the
Kamnik Alps and Mount Triglav (2864m) in Slovenia.
According to legend, the pillars represent the wedding
of a young miller and his love, a poor girl named Janja,
turned to stone. The miller’s family was wealthy and
his mother was set on a rich wife for her son, a suitable
match for such a family. But as often happens when the
heart prevails, he had fallen in love with Janja, the daughter of a penniless blind man.
The miller’s mother was beside herself, but her husband
stood by his son as he himself had started out without
a penny to his name. He ordered his wife to cease her
protests. On the day of the wedding the mother was not
among the wedding guests since she was at home cooking and preparing for their arrival. However, in a moment
of rage she swore that lightning would strike and turn
the wedding party to stone before she let Janja into her
home. And that is exactly what happened. The wedding
turned to stone still stands today.
This attractive place is the perfect end to a fine but not
over-demanding walk. If you are already on mount Medvednica, you can approach from Ponikve, a field on the
southwest slopes of the mountain above the beginning
of the D1 main road from Zagreb to Zabok. Or, you can
come from the eastern suburbs of Gornji Stenjevec or
Podsused, or from Jablanovec village itself.
Krvavi most (Bloody Bridge)
In the old days, Zagreb was made up of two settlements,
Gradec and Kaptol, set on neighbouring hills with the
Medveščak stream dividing them. The inhabitants of the
two towns would often get into quarrels and fights, and
one of the places where such altercations would take
place (often ending up in bloody noses) was the bridge
over the Medveščak. Thus the bridge earned its name:
Krvavi most (“Bloody Bridge”). The stream was diverted
underground and its course paved over when a sewerage system was built, and the bridge, thus useless, was
knocked down. But the small and quiet street connecting Radićeva ulica and Tkalčićeva still bears its scarysounding name.
Spring 2016 51

Shopping Malls
A woman’s fetish isn’t far away as the heart of Zagreb
and its outskirts is full of shopping centres. Each centre
can be reached by tram or bus with the Kaptol Centre
and Centar Cvjetni walking distance from the main
square. The bigger centres require public transport
and include Avenue Mall in Novi Zagreb, Arena Centre
in Lanište, City Centre One West in Jankomir, Point
Shopping Centre in Vrbani, City Centre One East in
Žitnjak, and Garden Mall in Dubrava. What else can we
say but, ‘shop till you drop’!

Lamps, candlesticks, decorative bottles and other
unique stuff.QA‑2, Ilica 61, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 96.
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A

5 museum shop finds
Archaeological Museum Shop
Take home a piece of history with you today from the
museum souvenir shop. Items include: ushepti figurines, tripartite jugs, the head of a Pharaoh and many,
many more.QC‑2, Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, tel.
(+385-1) 487 31 01, [email protected], Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.
Closed Mon. A
Art Shop Klovićevi Dvori
Souvenirs that prove you do indeed have the soul of
an artist.QC‑1, Jezuitski trg 4, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 26.
Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. A
HNK Art Shop
Amble into the souvenir shop where you can find Tshirts with Hamlet prints, DVD monographs, War and
Peace postcards, umbrellas, cups, puzzles and other fancy items with motifs from different theatre shows.QB‑3,
Trg maršala Tita 15, tel. (+385-1) 488 84 18, infocentar@, Usually operates from 10:00 13:00 and every evening when there are shows on. A
Msu Shop
A great choice of books and works by Croatian and international designers.QJ‑5, Avenija Dubrovnik 17, tel.
(+385-1) 605 27 58, [email protected], Open
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Muo Shop
Gifts inspired by the collection in the lovely Museum of
Arts and Crafts.QB‑3, Trg maršala Tita 10, tel. (+3851) 488 21 10/(+385-1) 488 21 11, Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. A
52 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Galerija Kerubin
Antiques, furniture, arts and crafts, jewellery and all kinds
of other stuff.QC‑1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 98,
[email protected], www.galerijakerubin. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed
Sun. A

A good old vinyl
Dancing Bear
CD shop, extensive selection outside the mainstream.
QB‑2, Gundulićeva 7, tel. (+385-1) 483 08 50, maloprodaja.
[email protected], Open 09:00
- 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A
Dirty Old Shop
The one stop ideal shop for all lovers of vinyl, comics, t-shirts
with cool prints, posters, original figures of characters from
favorite shows, bands, movies and all retro to cool!QI‑3, Tra‑
tinska 18, tel. (+385-1) 557 38 88, [email protected].
com, Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Croatian design
Croatian Design Superstore
Totally new concept store bringing the finest in Croatian
design to the forefront! This pop-up shop includes fashion, gastronomy, kitchen & tableware, decor, jewellery,
lighting and furniture. It’s a fab place to find unique gifts
and original souvenirs that are designed and produced
in Croatia. Also, the cafe, which is located within the
store, offers great cups of coffee and refreshing smoothies, cocktails, craft beers and wines, plus loads of homemade snacks on a daily basis from 09:00 till 21:00.QD‑2,
Martićeva 4, [email protected], www. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed
A recently established fixture in the field of interior design,
this is certainly worth a curious visit for the casual passerby, and a must-visit by anyone considering opening some
avante garde gallery or restaurant. In addition to Ana’s own
expertise, the shop stocks and hosts sculptures and artisanal jewellery.QB‑2, Dežmanova 4, tel. (+385-1) 580 16
76, Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop
The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian souvenirs
and gifts created by over 60 designers. Tote bags and purses
with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs,
unique jewellery, trendy daily planners and notebooks,
plus all sorts of other creative knick-knacks and handmade
mementos are all offered to remember your trip by.QB‑2,
Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, [email protected].
hr, Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A


affordable art

Lidia Boševski - Archives

Bowls and Plates by Lidia Boševski
If you would like to include a unique bowl or plate
in your home collection, then visit the Atelier Lidia
Boševski at Vlaška 81a. After completing a degree in
Applied Arts, Boševski worked in textile and clothing design, as well as product design followed by
ceramics in 2003. The acknowledgment of her work
has helped her gain a reputation as one of the astute
Croatian artists in the field of ceramics.
Jewellery by Diana Sokolić
Jewellery created by academic artist Diana Sokolić
received the silver award for fashion design (FRED
cufflinks - bracelets) at the International Design
Competition in Italy, 2013. Thereafter, it was presented by British Vogue, Tattler, InStyle, Marie Claire and
Harper’s Bazaar. This year, and at the same contest,
she received the bronze award for her fashion design
(Lacey bracelets) made with lace, and was once again
famed by British Vogue. This jewellery can be purchased at the Contemporary Art Museum (Avenija
Dubrovnik 17), and the Arts and Crafts Museum (Trg
maršala Tita 10) and via
Monograph of Miroslav Šutej Mobile serigraphs - Authors: Slavica
Marković and Zvonko Maković
Šutej is a remarkable personality of Croatian art of
the late 20th century, and the name of a prominent
international graphic artist. Find his monograph at
the Cabinet of Graphics HAZU (Andrije Hebranga 1).

Saša Šekoranja Gallery Archives

Necklaces by Nenad Roban
Necklaces from the project ‘Hommages’- Form follows the artist - A project conceived as a kind of
‘hommage’ or tribute to certain individuals in the
field of design, architecture and fine art. You can purchase their works at the Croatian Design Superstore
(Martićeva 4).
Replicas of the Galle Lamp and Miniature of Jesus
At the Kerubin Gallery, on Kamenita 15, you can find
replicas of Galle lamp, laminated glass height is 54
cm from around the 1980s, and miniatures of Jesus,
monastic work, from the 1780s era, dimensions are
16x13 cm.

Tihana Mikša Perković: Past... at last, Exhibition of Fashion Design
Photo by Vanja Šolin, Ulupuh Archives

54 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Saša Šekoranja badges
The artist has made a set of artistic badges with motifs of stylised flowers which are taken from his very
own paintings, then photographed and further customised in the shape of a badge. These can be found
in the flower Gallery Saša Šekoranja (Dežmanov prolaz 1).


Shoes & Accesories

Fashion Boutique Dora
Just for the ladies, boutique Dora is a traditional family
business that has been designing and manufacturing
beautiful women’s clothing for over 30 years. Dora is
known for their quality production and feminine designs. Every pattern is made either bespoke or in a small
series, and always of the finest natural fabrics. Authentic
and tailor made for you!QC‑1, Kamenita 2, tel. (+3851) 485 17 63, [email protected], www. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. J­A

A shoo
A not to be missed shoe shop and design studio in one.
Waltz in and pick out some soft leather and skinny straps
to wrap around your feet. Anita’s shoes are walking sex.
QD‑2, Martićeva 19, [email protected],
Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N

Jozef Gjoni
They opened in 1971, and since then have been producing unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of jewellery. With
a large collection of handmade gold and silver antique
pieces, as well as traditional Croatian jewellery, adorned
with precious and semi precious gemstones, they offer something for everyone.QC‑2, Ulica Nikole Jurišića
10, tel. (+385-1) 481 09 02, www.zlatarna-jozef-gjoni.
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Specializing in handmade modern jewelry, since 1938,
these contemporary and unique pieces were created by goldsmith, Renato Medaković.QC‑2, Frane
Petrića 2, tel. (+385-1) 481 27 49/(+385-) 098 182 64
70, [email protected]. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N
Nice, rich jewellery made of precious metals and natural
materials mostly inspired by Far East.QB‑2, Dežmanov
prolaz 5, tel. (+385-) 091 536 33 18/(+385-) 091 516
62 22, Open 12:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Look the part with handmade millinery and hats made
from all kinds of material.QC‑2, Pod zidom 8, tel. (+385-1)
481 49 75, Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Handmade umbrellas.QB‑2, Ilica 49, tel. (+385-1) 484 74
17, Open 08:30 - 20:00,
Sat 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sun. A
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a
store in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and
more, all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entirely unique designs so gifts from here can be that
much more special.QC‑2, Ilica 5 (Oktogon), www.croata.
hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Bonkulović Delicacies
Take your pick with their wide range of world famous delicacies.QI‑2, Nova Ves 17 (Centre Kaptol), tel. (+385-1) 486 07
89, [email protected], Open
09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
All kinds of teas to collect and sip. Brits: this is the only pure
teahouse in town that we know of.QD‑2, Iblerov trg 10 (Im‑
portanne Galleria), tel. (+385-1) 483 37 11, [email protected].
info. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Spring 2016 55


Ulični ormar Archives


Pinklec Delicija
Unique, regional flavors fill cured meats, cheeses, olive
oils, truffels are offered along with most any other palattepleasing product. Delight the senses with some cultural spelunking and souvenir indulgence.QE‑2, Martićeva 14c, tel.
(+385-1) 457 99 11. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Shatro Galeria
This lovely shop, stocks Croatian-only products - be they
picked or made by hand - from the islands of Mljet, Rab, Vis,
as well as Nin, Buzet, and of course the capital itself. These
products include a wide range of liqueurs, jams from not so
common fruits such as planika (Irish strawberry), and plavac a grape variety also present in wine form on the shelves. A full
rundown of everything available would take pages…QC‑2,
Stara Vlaška 7, tel. (+385-1) 562 77 33. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Quirky Stores
Glass Art Atelier Staklić - Gabriel Gallery
Founded in 1984, Glass Art Atelier “Staklić” is led by Academic
painter Dominique Jurić. Original Zagreb souvenirs from the
Gabriel’s Gallery production are on sale which represents a series of city motifs (Šestine umbrellas, Lotrščak Tower...) made
in glass according to the Tiffany technique. Simply announce
yourself earlier by email: [email protected]‑1, Voćarska
25, [email protected], Open
09:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Accessorize with handmade designs inspired by Gothic, Lolita
and Pinup.QB‑2, Masarykova 14, tel. (+385-1) 487 26 59,
[email protected], Open
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A


Fashion Boutique DoraQC-1, Kamenita 2, tel.

(+385-1) 485 17 63, [email protected], Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 14:00

Ulični OrmarQD-2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1)
492 65 00, [email protected]. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00

Galerija KerubinQC-1, Kamenita 15, tel. (+385-1) 485
16 98, [email protected], www.galerijakerubin. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00

StripoviQC-3, Preradovićeva 34, (+385-1) 483 77
77, [email protected],
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00


Jasmina i lutkice
A beautiful and unique collection of handmade dolls and
stuffed animals.QD‑3, Petrinjska 40, tel. (+385-) 098 79 57
73, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

56 Zagreb In Your Pocket



Ulični Ormar
The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and
this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage
and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s
purely vintage with some outstanding items up for
grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes
walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each
piece.QD‑2, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65
00, [email protected]. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. From 50kn. J­A­6

Galerija Kulin Galović
Try one of the best Slavonian kulens (dried minced pork) as
well as famous Slavonian truffles or čvarci (dried pork fat).
It is a meat-lovers oasis!QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-1) 457
20 05, Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat
08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Take Me Home - Croatian Design ShopQB-2,
Tomićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, [email protected], Open 09:30 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00



Hrelić (Jakuševac) flea market
You may meet the Croatian version of the ‘Trotter
brothers’ here as this is the city’s largest Sunday flea
market. Situated on the outskirts of the city, it is jam
packed with goodies from cars, motor-cycles, clothes,
to thousands of other handy items. You name it, it’s
sure to have it! Bargaining will be fun and do take the
time to relish some of the authentic local food and
meat dishes on offer! Get in early as merchants leave
by noon. The quickest way to get to the Fair is to catch
the bus number 295 at the Zapruđe Station, this line is
available on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays. For
more info visit:‑5, Sajmišna cesta 8,



Britanski trg antique market
Sunday mornings are always an attraction as the antique market is bursting with flair and excitement.
Here you will find various decorative things, old books
and collectables of both local and international origin.
Located in the very heart of the city, the market is a real
cultural treat for all fans of antiquity.QA‑2, Britanski


more style for less cash


Crop Store
Crop Store is a great place to call into if you’re hunting for
Croatian gifts whether they be the ubiquitous red heart or
a bottle of Istrian wine. Here you will find everything from
artisanal chocolate to olive oil, from liqueurs to truffles and
honey. If we were to list everything then we’d still be typing. Please, go in, peruse the shelves, thank us later.QC‑1,
Tkalčićeva 28, [email protected], Open
10:00 - 22:00.




Prostor Manufakturne Slobode (PMS)
An ideal place for all those who devour and appreciate
hand-crafts and new age ideas.QC‑2, Tkalčićeva 61,
[email protected]. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 16:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A
Roba Store
Homing their own collection as well as boasting a well chosen assortment of European fashion brands.QC‑3, Petra
Preradovića 34, tel. (+385-1) 485 46 81, [email protected].
Open 10:00 -20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Saša Šekoranja Gallery
Famous flower sculptor has opened a floral gallery in
Dežmanova Street which will host works, exhibitions,
book promotions and more.QB‑2, Dežmanov prolaz 1,
tel. (+385-1) 484 70 70. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun. N

Saša Šekoranja Gallery Archives

Silver Club
Men have it easy. Need a tux? Rent one! Need a shirt? Every
store carries them! Thankfully for the women of Zagreb,
Silver Club is here to meet your needs. Want a bag or
necklace to go with your new dress? Silver Club can hook
you up. Silver Club is a members only accessory boutique
which rents out jewellery, bags, and the like, for two week
periods. It may sound unusual, but the foot traffic speaks
for itself. Silver Club does sell some smaller items, and once
or twice per year will hold a members only clear-out of
rotating stock. Ladies, take a look, because you won’t be
disappointed.QB‑2, Ilica 47/a, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 94, Open 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. J
Stripovi na kvadrat
An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as
the best known English editions are hot off the press here.
Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and
gifts are also available and their website is updated with
the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+385-1)
483 77 77, [email protected], Open
09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Crop Store Archives
Dora Rubić at Fashion Boutique - Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Eclectic. Unique. Quirky. There are probably few enough
words to adequately describe this shop, placed at the top
of Opatovina. Caters to hipster kids, those needing classic business wear, it has hats, coats, shoes, boots, accessories galore! If you’re having difficulty picking up some
unusual presents then you need to pay a visit here.QC‑1,
Opatovina 45, tel. (+385-1) 390 70 00, [email protected].
com, Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. A

Join the conversation with IYP

58 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Since Zagreb is a popular tourist hot spot, it is of no surprise
that there is a wide range of accommodation options from
hotels, boutique hotels, hostels, and private accommodation
of different categories and prices. While on the go, where to
snooze is indeed an important decision. In recent years, an influx of hostels has opened around town which are extremely
clean and tidy, with attention given to the arrangement of
the interior. Private accommodation with apartments and
flats are always in demand while the hotel offer now includes
an emergence of classy boutique hotels. Detailed information in reference to all types of accommodation is available
on the web site and at the Tourist Information Centres. All in
all, there’s something for everyone’s pocket!

5 Stars
Esplanade Zagreb Hotel
QC‑4, Mihanovićeva 1, tel. (+385-1) 456 66 66, fax (+3851) 456 60 20, [email protected],
208 rooms (146 Superior Rooms €120 - 229, 48 Deluxe
Rooms €140 - 229, 13 Deluxe Suite €220 - 309, 1 Presi‑
dential Suite €1900). P­T­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­F­
L­E­G­B­K­D­W hhhhh
Sheraton Zagreb Hotel
QD‑3, Kneza Borne 2, tel. (+385-1) 455 35 35, fax (+3851) 455 30 35, [email protected], www. 306  rooms (254  singles
€105 - 135, 254 doubles €130 - 160, 28 suites €175 - 270,
23 Junior Suites €130 - 160, 1 Presidential Suite €1000 1500). P­i ­J­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­
C­w­W hhhhh
The Westin Zagreb
QA‑3, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1, tel. (+385-1) 489 20 00,
fax (+385-1) 489 20 01, [email protected], 349 rooms (308 doubles
€125  - 170, 19  Westin Guest Office Suites €175  - 220,
1  Presidential Suite €1500, 19  Executive Suites €260  310, 2 Delux Suites €560 - 592). P­Z­O­T­J­H­A­
R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­C­w­W hhhhh

4 Stars
Arcotel Allegra
QD‑4, Branimirova 29, tel. (+385-1) 469 60 00, fax
(+385-1) 469 60 96, [email protected], www. 151  rooms (38  singles €170,
103 doubles €185, 4 suites €335, 4 Junior Suites €260,
2 Rooms for disabled €170). P­J­H­A­R­6­U­I­
F­L­E­G­B­K­D­S­w­W hhhh
QC‑2, Petrinjska 71, tel. (+385-1) 480 89 00, fax (+3851) 480 89 08, [email protected], www.hotelastoria.
hr. 100 rooms (36 singles €79 - 97, 2 suites €213 - 244,
28 King €93 - 125, 18 Twin €93 - 125, 12 Executive €111 150, 4 Superior Executive €164 - 187). P­T­H­A­R­
U­L­G­K­W hhhh

Palace Hotel Zagreb Archives

Double Tree by Hilton Zagreb
QJ‑3, Ulica grada Vukovara 269a, tel. (+385-1) 600 19
00, fax (+385-1) 600 19 16, www.zagreb.doubletree.
com. 152  rooms (26  Guest Rooms Twin €109  - 209,
90  Guest Rooms King €109  - 209, 2  Disabled Guest
Rooms King €109 - 209, 28 Deluxe Rooms King €135 235, 6 Corner Suites €209 - 309). P­H­A­R­6­U­
F­L­G­D­C­w­W hhhh
QC‑2, Ljudevita Gaja 1, tel. (+385-1) 486 35 55, fax
(+385-1) 486 35 07, [email protected], 222 rooms (77 singles €89 99, 87  King Twin Rooms €115  - 119, 50  Delux Rooms
€129 - 145, 4 Junior Suites €160, 3 Executive Suites €185,
1  Presidential Suite €500). P­O­T­J­H­A­6­U­
F­L­G­B­K­X­W hhhh
Hotel International
QC‑4, Miramarska 24, tel. (+385-1) 610 81 00, fax (+3851) 610 87 00, [email protected], 207 rooms (168 doubles €170, 8 triples
€183, 1 suite €280, 29 Junior Suites €190, 1 Presidential
Suite €450). P­Z ­i ­O­T­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­G­
K­D­W hhhh
QC‑3, Trg J. J. Strossmayera 10, tel. (+385-1) 489 96 00,
fax (+385-1) 481 13 57, [email protected], www.palace.
hr. 123 rooms (23 singles €95 - 105, 95 doubles €115 125, 3  suites €250  - 255, 2  Junior Suites €180  - 185).
P ­i ­T ­J ­H ­A ­R ­6 ­U ­F ­L ­G ­B ­K ­w ­W
Spring 2016 59


3 Stars
QD/C‑4, Kneza Branimira 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 11 22, fax
(+385-1) 484 01 03, [email protected], 69 rooms (24 singles €68 - 80, 39 doubles €75 95, 6  triples €93  - 107). P­i ­O­H­A­R­6­L­W
Hotel Laguna Zagreb
QA‑4, Kranjčevićeva 29, tel. (+385-1) 304 70 00, fax
(+385-1) 304 70 77, [email protected], 166  rooms (62  singles €50  - 70, 83  doubles
€60 - 80, 15 triples €70 - 90, 6 suites €90 - 120). P­i ­J­
H­A­R­6­U­I­G­B­K­X­W hhh
QD‑2, Vlaška 50, tel. (+385-1) 455 37 77, fax (+385-1) 461
21 51, [email protected],
49 rooms (24 singles €74, 20 doubles €86, 5 triples €98).
P­i ­J­A­R­6­U­L­G­K­W hhh
QC‑2, Ilica 14, tel. (+385-1) 483 38 77, fax (+385-1) 483
35 73, [email protected], www.hotel-jagerhorn.
hr. 18 rooms (3 singles €95 - 119, 13 doubles €115 - 125,
2 apartments €159). P­i ­J­A­L­G­B­K­W hhh

QJ‑6, Cebini 33, Buzin, tel. (+385-1) 669 59 00, fax
(+385-1) 669 59 02, [email protected], www. 150  rooms (5  singles €78  - 150,
134  doubles €84  - 160, 7  triples €130  - 190, 3  suites
€190 - 240, 1 Presidential Suite €350 - 460). P­i ­H­
A­R­6­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­X­S­w­W hhhh

Photo by Anette Fleck


Best Western Hotel Stella
QNadinska 27, tel. (+385-1) 539 36 00/(+385-) 091
636 46 88, fax (+385-1) 539 36 03, [email protected].
hr, 44 rooms (41 singles €70 - 76,
41  doubles €100  - 114, 2  triples €128, 1  suite €141).
P­A­U­L­G­W hhh

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

60 Zagreb In Your Pocket

QD‑3, Augusta Šenoe 28, tel. (+385-1) 483 95 54/
(+385-) 091 533 70 96, fax (+385-1) 483 95 43, info@, 21  rooms (6  singles €35  45, 6 doubles €40 - 52, 2 triples €59 - 63, 7 apartments
€49 - 105). P­A ­L ­G
Qtel. (+385-) 091 652 32 01, [email protected], www. P­Z­T­A­R­6­U­F­G­B­C­W

Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce
QE‑4, Strojarska 22, tel. (+385-1) 483 67 77, fax (+385-1)
483 67 76, [email protected], Open
08:30 - 16:30, Fri 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Croatian Chamber of Economy
Freephone info: 0800-1852QB‑3, Rooseveltov trg 2, tel.
(+385-1) 456 15 55, fax (+385-1) 482 83 80, snusinovic@, Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
Fina - The Finance Agency
Call centre tel. 0800 0080QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 70,
tel. (+385-1) 612 71 11, [email protected], Open
08:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
Ministry of Economy, Labour and Entrepreneurship
QI‑3, Ul. grada Vukovara 78, tel. (+385-1) 610 61 11,
inf[email protected], Open 08:30 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hrvatska odvjetnička komora (Croatian
Bar Association)
Due to strict ethical laws, lawyers in Croatia are not allowed to be listed in publications. Give them a call for

formation about specific lawyers that specialise in the services you need.QB‑4, Koturaška 53/II, tel. (+385-1) 616
52 00, [email protected], Open
08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hrvatska javnobilježnička komora
Notaries work the same way as lawyers in this country:
there is a primary association that you have to go through.
QD‑2, Račkoga 10, tel. (+385-1) 455 65 66, fax (+385-1)
455 15 44, [email protected], Open 08:00 - 16:00,
Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Pharmacy 0-24
Central pharmacy
QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3, tel. (+385-1) 481 61 98.
QL‑2, Grižanska 4, tel. (+385-1) 299 23 50.
QG‑3, Ilica 301, tel. (+385-1) 375 03 21.
QH‑3, Ozaljska 1, tel. (+385-1) 309 75 86.
QI‑5, Avenija V.Holjevca 22, tel. (+385-1) 652 54 25.
Spring 2016 61

Lepušićeva E-3
Lisinskog B-1
Lopašićeva E-2
Ljudevita Gaja
Margaretska C-2
Marićev prolaz
Markovićev trg
Martićeva D-2
Marulićev trg
Masarykova B-2
Matičina C-3
Matoševa B-1
Mažuranićev trg
Medulićeva B-3
Mesnička B-2
Mihanovićeva B/C-4
Miklouševa C-1
Mikulićeva E-1
Miramarska C-4
Mletačka B-1
Mlinarske stube
Mrazovićeva D-3
Nikole Tesle
Novakova D-1
Opatička C-1
Opatovina C-1
Palmotićeva D-3
Pantovčak A-2
Park Ribnjak
Paromlinska C-4
Patačićkina D-2
Pavla Hatza
Pavla Šubića
Pavlinovićeva A-2
Perkovčeva B-3
Petrinjska C-2
Petrova E-1
Pierottijeva A-3
Pod zidom
Posilovićeva E-1
Praška C-2
Preobražanska C-2
Preradovićeva C-3
Pr. Gjure Deželića
Primorska A-2
Radićeva C-1
Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4
Radnički dol

Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Ribnjak C-1
Rokov perivoj
Rokova A-2
Rubetićeva D-1
Ruđera Boškovića
Runjaninova B-4
Šalata D-1
Savska cesta
Schlosserove stube D-2
Širolina E-3
Skalinska C-1
Smičiklasova D-2
Splavnica C-2
Stančićeva E-3
Starčevićev trg
Streljačka B-1
Strojarska E-4
Strossmayerov trg
Strossmayerovo šet. B-2
Svačićev trg
Švearova E-3
Brezovačkoga B-1
Tkalčićeva C-1
Tomašićeva E-2
Tomićeva B-2
Tratinska A-4
Trg Ante Starčevića
Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2
Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1
Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1











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62 Zagreb In Your Pocket




Arena Zagreb

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Trg kralja Petra Krešimira IV

Učiteljski fakultet
5 17 14 4




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Operator: HT d.d., Savska cesta 32, Zagreb








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Informacije: 060 100 001*
Sugestije i pritužbe: 0800 200 060
*poziv na broj 060 100 001 iz fiksne mreže:1,16 kn/min,
iz mobilne 2,36 kn/min (PDV je uračunat).

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Radićevo šetalište











Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3
Trg žrtava fašizma
Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3
Trg kralja Tomislava
Trg Maršala Tita
Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3
Trg Petra Preradovića C-2
Trg Petra Petretića
Trg Svetog Marka
Trnjanska cesta
Trpimirova D-4
Tuškanac B-1
Tvrtkova E-3
Unska B-4
Varšavska B-2
Vinkovićeva C-1
Visoka B-1
Vitezovićeva C-1
Vladimira Nazora
Vlaška D-2
Voćarska cesta
Voćarsko naselje
Vodnikova B-4
Vojnovićeva E-2
Vončininova D-1
Vramčeva D-1
Vranicanijeva B-1
Vukotinovićeva B-3
Weberova C-1
Zamenhoffova A-1

Služba komunikacija i marketinga





City Essentials

VAT in Croatia is generally set at 25% and is due on most
goods and services. Lower rates of VAT are applicable to
goods such as bread and milk, and the tourism sector. Employers are required to report, withhold and pay authorities
all taxes and contributions on behalf of employees for their
incomes. Personal income tax on an employee‘s salary is
determined at the following rates: 12% for a net income up
to 2 200kn, 25% for the difference between net 2 200kn and
11 000kn and 40% for a net income higher than 13 200kn.
Thresholds for tax rates are variable, meaning that the law
determines them on the basis of the deductions allowed, an
amount that changes once a year. City surtax is applicable;
Zagreb residents are taxed 18%. 20% of social contributions are withheld from the employee‘s gross income and
the employer pays an additional 15.20%. The minimum
startup capital for a limited liability company is the counter value in kunas of 20 000kn. A foreign founder deposits
the capital into a temporary account with an authorized
business bank. Once the company is Croatian registered
business, the founder can freely transfer such funds into
regular company accounts.





With a warm, safe and colorful atmosphere, teachers that
nurture and stimulate your child’s learning and an excellent educational programme with creative workshops,
arts and crafts, field trips, sports activities etc. - we can
definitely say Horizons is a children’s heaven.QI‑2, Zelen‑
gaj 6, tel. (+385-1) 457 82 05, [email protected],



Gundulićeva B-3
Habdelićeva C-1
Harmica C-2
Hochmanova A-3
Hrvojeva E-3
Ilica A-2
Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1
Ivana Kukuljevića
Ivekovićeve stube
Jagićeva A-3
Janka Draškovića
Jezuitski trg
Jukićeva A-3
Jurišićeva C-2
Jurja Žerjavića
Jurkovićeva E-1
Kačićeva A-3
Kamaufova E-2
Kamenita C-1
Kaptol C-1
Kapucinske stube
Katančićeva C-3
Katarinin trg
Klaićeva A-3
Kneza Borne
Kneza Branimira
Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3
Kneza Mislava
Kneza Mutimira
Kneza Višeslava
Koranska B-4
Kordunska A-2
Koturaška A-4
Kovačića Ante
Kozarčeva A-1
Kotarska C-1
Kralja Držislava
Kralja Zvonimira
Kraljice Jelene
Kranjčevićeva A-4
Križanićeva D-3
Kršnjavoga A-3
Krutićeva E-3
Krvavi most
Kumičićeva C-4
Kurelčeva D-2
Kuševićeva B-1
Laginjina E-2


Central Post Office
QD‑4, Branimirova 4, tel. (+385-) 0800 30 33 04, info@, Open 00:00 - 24:00.

29. X. 1918.
Aleksandrove stube B-1
Amruševa C-2
Andrije Hebranga
A. Heinza
Andrije Žaje
Antuna Bauera
Arnoldova A-2
Augusta Šenoe
A. Marina Držića
Bakačeva C-2
Barčićeva E-2
Baruna Trenka
Basaričekova C-1
Bednjanska B-4
Berislavićeva C-3
Biankinijeva E-2
Bogovićeva C-2
Božidara Adžije
Branjugova D-2
Brešćenskoga E-2
Britanski trg
Brozova A-4
Buconjićeva A-2
Bulatova A-2
Bulićeva E-2
Čačkovićeva E-1
Cesarčeva C-2
Čirilometodska C-1
Crnatkova A-4
Dalmatinska B-2
Degenova C-1
Demetrova B-1
Dežmanova B-2
Domagojeva D-4
Đorđićeva D-2
Dubravkin put
Dvoranski prečac
Erdödyeva E-3
Felbingerove stube C-1
Florijana Andrašeca A-4
Frane Petrića
Franje Račkog
Frankopanska B-3
Froudeova B-1
Golubovac B-1
Grič B-2
Grgura Ninskog



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Street register


TRAM st. u oba smjera
TRAM stop - both directions
TRAM st. u jednom smjeru
TRAM stop - one direction
Autobusni terminali
BUS terminal
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Boris Bućan: Breakfast at Printer’s
April 14th – May 29th 2016
The world would be a more beautiful place if it was
covered with Bućan's posters.
The great world msueums that keep his works know
this: MoMA, Cooper-Hewitt Museum, New York;
Staatliches Museum für Angewandte Kunst, Munich;
Deutches Plakat Museum, Essen; Victoria and Albert
Museum, London, and many others.
Zagreb Museum of Contemporary Art / Av. Dubrovnik 17, Zagreb, Croatia
Hours: Tue–Sun: 11:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. / Saturday: 11:00 a.m.–8:00 p.m. / Monday
and holidays: closed

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